Zadar In Your Pocket 2022 by In Your Pocket City Guides

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Zadar Summer 2022

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Contents

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Summer 2022

Contents ON THE COVER

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Best Instagram Spots in Rijeka

Summer Events What’s On

Local Flavour Sightseeing

10 8

Restaurants

Top 5 Experiences in Rijeka Coffee & Cakes

15 14

Coffee & Cakes Nightlife

20 19

Hanging out Sightseeing

Shopping Zadar Surroundings

27 22

Shopping Weekend Getaways

23 34

Arrival & Getting Around Street index

36 37

City map centre map City map

38 40 38 40

Maps City centre map Maps

Foreword As the winter winds give way to the, well, warmer winds of

spring and summer, Rijeka’s renaissance shows no sign of abatReady forbeen another excitingfew season of Croatia’ sun and fun inport, Zaing. It has a whirlwind years for s biggest dar? We are, without although winter far and development acrossdoubt, town has draggedthe beauty andwas energy from Weneglected recharged our batteries, did some good out ofwasted. previously facades. Sure, the whole pandemic planning well, still enjoyed all works, the excellence that thing threwand, a massive spanner into the but we’re hardy Zadar gives. Wind aside, the weather isn’t ever that bad folks here, and things continue to move forward as we look tohere, after all. wards the summer of 2022. Without wanting to co-opt a phrase fromwhat previous Rijeka happening, So is ongenerations, tap for 2022? Allisthe greatestman. hitsYeah, that we’ll you see ourselves out…continue to sparkle, and the one-two know and love punch of the Sun Salutation and the Sea Organ remains Food is at the as centre our attention this truth issue, be although it is as impactful ever.ofThey never getinold, told, and probably fair toremains say thatthe foodbest is atvantage the centrepoint of ourforattention all the seafront enjoying aday stunning sunset in this city. long. When it tastes thisgorgeous good, how could it not be? Jump straight to our special food feature and get to know the best of The old when town ithas a new range of restaurants to accentuthe best comes to local delicacies before heading to the ate thetavern magicorthat already existed, many of which have nearest restaurant to eat your body weight in magnifibeen covered in this issue. Culinary habits get a little more cence. Don’t say we didn’t warn you. attention this time around, so head to our special feature and make Rijeka’ a listsofclassic localcombination delicacies toof try. You architecture might just Elsewhere, elegant find your new favourite dish. Pair it with a delicious Brlog and bubbling creativity remains as alive as ever, with ideasyou the craft beer or one of the many crisp local wines and main go subject of conversation in bars and cafes in town. 2022 can’t wrong. is shaping up to be a big year for Rijeka, and we hope you enjoycan’t the really ride. Asgoalways, feedback, You wrongwe in appreciate Zadar, full any stop.and As all always, any and feedback is encouraged, it through social be itallthrough email, social media,be carrier pigeon,email, or given at media, or in-between theWe wistful sighs of the half-speed mid-food coma. weren’t joking withSea thatOrgan. ‘body We’ll see you there weight’ comment, by the way…

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This year’s magnificent cover was made in collaboration with Marko Babić, otherwise known as Artplakata. What is Artplakata? A tremendously creative love letter to the neglected aspects of daily life in our cities, that’s what. Artplakata aims to breathe new life into ignored pieces of architecture and the rest through art, and we’re happy to say that Artplakata more than succeeds. Photo: Marko Babić

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1845-5514 Company Office & Accounts Publisher Višnja Arambašić Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb Rijeka In Your Pocket, Paška 37, Zagreb, Croatia ISSN 1334-9228 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Company Office & AccountsMi-ni d.o.o. Accounting Management Company Office & Accounts Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Croatia In Your Pocket, Paška 37,Nedelja Zagreb, Croatia

zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Editorial Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o. Editor Arambašić PrintedVišnja by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Contributors Jonathan Bousfield, John William Bills Editorial Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Editor Višnja Arambašić Design Ivana Mihoković AssistantMOONTAGE, Editor Kristina Štimac Contributors Nataly Photography RijekaAnderson-Marinović, In Your Pocket teamIvana unlessKovačić, otherwise stated Lee Murphy, Jonathan Bousfield, John William Bills Cover Marko Babić, Artplakata Design Moontage, Ivana Mihoković Sales & Circulation Manager Vukičevićstated Photography In Your Pocket teamKristijan unless otherwise Cover © Marko Artplakata Support Sales Babić, Kristina Štimac Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Kristina Štimac,

Višnja Arambašić Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copCopyright notice yright cartographer. Allcopyright rights reserved. No partd.o.o. of this publicaText, maps and photos Plava ponistra Maps copytion be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the rightmay cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for publishthe purpurpose of review, without written permission from the pose review, without permission thePocket publisher and er andof copyright owner.written The brand namefrom In Your is used copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under liunder license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, cense from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. Lithuania tel.29 (+370-5) 212(Croatia) 29 76).InRijeka (Croatia) In Your Pocket (+370-5) 212 76). Zadar Your Pocket is not responsible fornot anyresponsible informationforwhich might change aftermight publication. is any information which changePlease after check with the eventcheck organisers if in event doubt.organisers if in doubt. publication. Please with the

zadar.inyourpocket.com Summer 2022

Events

Summer is the perfect time to travel, to visit new places and gain new experiences. Travelling is also a great way to learn about local art facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Peter Kuchler III, MAS Archive

Summer 2022

Events 28.04 - 30.08 » 120 years of Krapina’s prehistoric man Krapina’s famous Prehistoric Man is obviously much older than 120 years (that would make him a late 19th-century man), but the Zadar Archaeological Museum is celebrating 120 years of his discovery throughout the summer. The 1899 discovery is one of the most important finds in the whole region, and fans can visit to marvel at the richest collection of Neanderthal bits and bobs on the planet. That means 900 plus pieces of human fossil remains, more than 2,000 animal bones and more than 1,000 stone tools. Archaeological paradise, to say the least. QC‑3, Archaeological Museum, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13.

10.06 - 05.10 » Pablo Picasso - A New Beginning You know what you’re going to get from a Pablo Picasso exhibition at this point, right? Oh, so naive, so naive! Wrong! Picasso was an innovator and then some, so any exhibition of his works is set up to surprise. This selection of the most significant works from The Lake collection is no different, with 230 original ceramics, graphics and posters on hand to wow art experts and amateurs alike. This is one of the largest collections of original Picasso ceramics in Europe, so don’t miss out. QD‑3, Rector’s Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

09.05 - 15.08 » Velika Mrdakovica - Results of the Latest Archaeological Research The name is something of a giveaway, truth be told. 15km or so north of Šibenik, Velika Mrdakovica is an important discovery from the long ago, and new bits and pieces are being unearthed all the time. Head to the Museum of Ancient Glass, this summer to learn more about life way back when. QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

05.05 - 20.08 » Peter Kuchler III - Glass for Eternity A super exhibition at the Museum of Ancient Glass, Glass for Eternity showcases the best of the best from young Austrian glassblower Peter Kuchler III. The United Nations has declared 2022 the International Year of Glass (long overdue, if you ask us), and this is as good as it gets. Fabulous technique, incredible imagery, tremendous art, this is a great way to get to know an international sensation. QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

28.06 - 02.08 » Zadar Summer Festival Its lights, camera, action in Zadar for 5 straight weeks and there is something for everyone. From local to national theatre groups; casts, crews, actors and directors give it their all on stage to present some enthralling performances. Fatal love, lies, dishonesty, deception, curiosity and turbulence are just some of the key elements that tell the tales of these plays. All in all, theatre and performance is truly alive in this part of the globe.QC‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Široka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86, www.hnk-zadar.hr.

06.07 - 01.08 » The 62st Musical Evenings in St Donat If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you. The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Various locations across city.QB‑3, St Donatus’ Church, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, www.donat-festival.com.

27.07 - 29.07 » Jazz&Blues Festival The zesty sounds of these genres will for three days become a draw card for some of the world’s best jazz and blues musicians. The opening night belongs to Fred Wesley and the New JBs, this legendary composer and trombonist is best known for his work with James Brown. The second day is reserved for the Ratko Zjaca and Nocturanal Four. The finale belongs to Celia Kameni & Elio Copolla Trio. QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31.

30.07 » Millenium Jump When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here for this growing event. It’s the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular from the air! The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science.QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, www.zadar.travel.

30.07 - 03.08 » Zadar Sunset Festival One of the most exciting events on the Zadar calendar, the Zadar Sunset Festival is a celebration of partying featuring some of the biggest DJs on the planet. The festival takes place across several locations, with boat parties and beach sessions the norm. 2022 sees Daniel Cruz, Eli Brown, Chelina Manuhutu and more take to the decksQA‑3, Greeting to the Sun, 170 - 300 kn.

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Zadar In Your Pocket

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Summer Events

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Summer 2022

Summer Events Events

20.04 - 01.10 » Ratko Petrić The retrospective exhibition which opens this April in Proveditor’s’s palace - Zadar will present a cross-section of Ratko Petrić’s entire oeuvre. Sculptures, models, posters and printed matter, works on paper and archives and multimedia content by this great author from Zadar will be on display. The central theme of his artistic opus is man and his destiny. Extensively using irony, sarcasm and grotesque, he questioned the sociopolitical, cultural and artistic phenomena of his time in a very fresh and lucid way. Many of his sculptures and monuments can be seen in public spaces, mostly in Croatia, but also in Austria, Germany and Slovenia. QD‑3, Rector’s Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

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Ratko Petrić - To sam ja!, Photo by Darko Bavoljak

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23.08 - 27.08 » Monopoly Festival – Contemporary Dance Festival

Summer Events Events

One of the most important dance festivals in Croatia, will be celebrated at the Zadar Puppet Theatre and will this year host some of Europe’s most renowned dancers and choreographers such as Xavier La Roy, Sanna Myllylahti, Magdalena Reiter, Matija Ferlin and many others. Visitors will be able to relax at Zadar’s greenest oasis Monoaza, a specially designed place for artistic gatherings and exhibitions in St. Dominic’s Church. The programme also includes a pre-warm up educational platform for performers called STREAM Zadar. QD‑3, Zadar Puppet Theatre, Sokol‑ ska 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 91 81, www.monoplay.eu. Monoplay Festival Archive Archaeological Museum Archive

11.08 - 13.08 » Full Moon Festival On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan); clams from Pašman and mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance to travel to Zadar’s outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable event.QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, www.zadar. travel.

20.08 » Jadran Rowing Duel Row, row, row your boat gently down the Jazine! Indeed, see this 8 man rowing regatta with local and international crews battling the conditions for the prized trophy.QJazine Bay, www.vk-jadran.hr.

17.09 - 18.09 » Zadar Outdoor Festival Zadar Outdoor Festival is taking place once again this year. With more and more tourists recognising Croatia as a place for activities that don’t revolve around sun and sea. Running, mountain biking, kayaking, swimming... You have it all in the greater Zadar region. Preko, Island Ugljan Qwww.zadaroutdoor.com. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Summer 2022

Local Flavour

In most Dalmatian towns the market is a sight for sore eyes, and Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been here since the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back to WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of town. Some around the edge of the square are only just being reconstructed. The outside stalls are where you’ll find mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs and more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little old ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and cheese – usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent. The indoor meat market is to one side of the square, and the fish market is opposite, coolly located inside the city walls. Proud locals claim it’s the best fish market on the coast. To one side is a section of the market for cheap clothes and bric-a-brac, great if you need an emergency pair of flipflops or a cheap snorkel. Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter. Photo Višnja Arambašić 10 by Zadar facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket In Your Pocket

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Local Flavour Eat Your Heart Out The inhabitants of Zadar live in a fertile horn of plenty. Not only do the locals have the obvious benefit of fresh fish on their doorstep, the city is also backed by a broad belt of land named Ravni kotari – “the flat counties”. Here a combination of sun and rain, rich soil and a clean environment provides great conditions for growing tasty fruit and vegetables. In Zagreb’s openair markets many a stallholder puts forth a sign proudly proclaiming “Produce of Zadar” to attract buyers with an eye for good food. However, a trip to Zadar’s market is still a mouth-watering experience. The fish market is a delight, built right into the city ramparts at the spot where the fishing trawlers land with their catch. As well as lush lettuces and crisp chard, you’ll find citrus fruits and kiwis from the islands, fresh and dried figs, homemade olive oil and cut flowers straight from the garden. Apart from the riches of the fertile plains and seas, Zadar’s gastronomic identity is shaped by the mountains you see to the north. From there comes the tradition of rearing sheep and goats. Both the meat and the milk are the basis of some of the Zadar region’s most interesting specialities. Let’s get a little bit specific. What should you look out for if you’d like to try the authentic food of the Zadar region? The coast The obvious place to start. In Zadar’s restaurant’s you can’t miss fish grilled over charcoal or cooked in a brudet sauce. Then there’s risottos, of which crni rižot with black cuttlefish ink may qualify as the most interesting. And seafood prepared na buzaru with white wine, garlic and parsley. Simply delicious.

Look out for the most inexpensive fish; sardines, anchovies and other small fish, deep fried or preserved in salt or oil and vinegar. And Zadar, which has centuries of close contact with Italy, is no bad place for a simple meal of pizza or pasta. What do people eat at home? Fried fish or squid on Fridays, definitely. On special occasions, salt cod cooked a million different ways, such as na bijelo – with garlic, parsley, white wine and potatoes. This might be followed by pašticada – beef studded with carrots, garlic and smoked bacon and stewed with wine and prunes. On Sundays, meat cooked na lešo in a soup with vegetables, an allin-one dish that just needs a green salad to round it off. On workdays, pašta fažol – bean stew with pasta, is a popular filler. Lowlands, highlands and islands In springtime the land from the water’s edge to the foot of the mountains is crawling with folks hunting for asparagus. This wild asparagus, pleasantly bitter in taste, is much prized lightly sautéed with scrambled eggs as a fritaja. A speciality from this region is vara – chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans, a local bean called jari grah and sweetcorn, very simply, served just with olive oil. It’s the perfect remedy when you’ve overdone things, purging your blood of cholesterol and other naughties. Lest you get the wrong idea, Zadar’s interior is a fiercely carnivorous land. On the light side, you might get a turkey (tuka) roasted peka style, under an iron lid heaped with embers. Local turkeys are small and athletic, very differ-

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ent from the big white industriallyfarmed birds. Roasted like this with potatoes they’re succulent and delicious. Then there’s lamb and kid goat. It’s odd that goat meat is little eaten in much of Europe since it’s almost indistinguishable from lamb except it’s less greasy (and certainly more healthy). In the highland regions smoked kid goat is an especial delicacy, usually stewed with vegetables in a dish named kaštradina. Weddings, birthdays and Christmas are unimaginable in these parts without a roast lamb or goat. Both are also prepared lešo style on an everyday basis. Beef and pork don’t figure much on the traditional menu. Island lamb is particularly prized, notably that from Kornati and Pag where the animals graze on wild herbs laced with salt from the wind. Pag is the centre of Croatia’s cheese industry; a good mature Pag cheese is not dissimilar to Parmesan. At the other end of the cheesy spectrum, a product called skuta is only edible in the first few days of its life at the beginning of the cheese-making process. It’s a light curd cheese, sweetish in flavour, perfect for spreading on bread or for desserts, all the more so as it’s low in fat. You’ll find it on Pag island and also made by families in the hinterland, but rarely elsewhere as it doesn’t keep for long. You probably won’t find food like this in Zadar itself. To get a broader picture of the cuisine of the region, we highly recommend you take a jaunt inland and keep an eye out for a family-run restaurant or a seosko domaćinstvo – a rural smallholding that serves home-grown food to guests. Or head to Benkovac where there are several culinary festivals each year.

Summer 2022

Local Flavour Local dishes Kaštradina Perhaps the most iconic traditional food of this region, the dish known in modern Croatia as kaštradina was called castradina Schiavona during Venetian times, the same as the basket-hilted schiavona sword. It is thought that both earned their name from the soldiers from Dalmatia and the Balkans who fought bravely to protect the Venetian lands. Anyway, kaštradina in the Zadar region is usually smoked mutton or goat meat cooked in sauerkraut. You’ll find it in the hinterland and on Pag island in winter, the time when fresh meat is scarce. It’s a warming dish that is great washed down with strong local red wine Maraschino liqueur Zadar’s Maraska factory moved a few years back to new technologically-advanced premises but it’s former home, a beautiful lemon building on the seafront, is one of the best-loved things in Zadar, as are its products. The company was founded in 1768 as a distiller of Maraschino liqueur – a sweet, clear spirit made from Maraschino cherries which grow well in this climate. The Maraschino cherry is small, sourish and not too meaty – it’s not so great for eating. But it makes wonderfully aromatic liqueur and is great in cakes and juices. Still available in the same basket-wrapped bottle as at the beginning of the 19th century, Maraschino liqueur makes a great gift or souvenir.

Salt fish In times past, the only way of preserving fish was to salt it. Sardines, the most easily accessible fish, were salted by every family and kept in storage. Nowadays the sardine has been usurped by the smaller anchovy, which most people know from other Mediterranean cuisines. It’s a tasty ingredient in starters, pizzas, pastas and sauces. Cod in Croatia is almost always salted; fresh cod is very little used. Salt cod features in many traditional dishes but it comes from the cold northern waters. The tradition of eating salt cod was imported to Catholic southern Europe centuries ago since it could be stored for meatless Fridays. If your travels take you to Kali on the island of Dugi Otok, keep an eye out for salt tuna which isn’t made anywhere else in Croatia. Kali is the centre of Croatia’s fishing industry and most tuna is landed here. Samphire At the water’s edge, especially where it’s rocky, if you spot a green plant with succulent branching leaves, break off a little and sniff it. If it has a faint herbal tang, chances are it’s rock samphire (Crithmum maritimum). Known locally at motar, it’s rather little used in cooking these days but is regaining popularity thanks to the wild food movement. The story goes that in the Second World War people had little other than samphire to eat, so they became mighty sick of it. But it’s fantastic cooked and served as a vegetable side dish with a delightful herby taste. It’s even better pickled, and has saved the life of many a sailor through history – with its high vitamin content it was taken on long voyages to prevent scurvy.

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Peka You might get a turkey (tuka) roasted peka style, under an iron lid heaped with embers. Local turkeys are small and athletic, very different from the big white industrially-farmed birds. Roasted like this with potatoes they’re succulent and delicious.

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Local Flavour Food & Drink 14.07 - 16.07 » Kali Fisherman’s Nights Tunuara The largest fishing feast in the Zadar region is on the island of Ugljan and in the town of Kali. Head down for the rich three-day program where traditions of old are revived such as the parade of fishing boats across the Zadar Canal, which is also a trademark of the event. The authentic cuisines cooked up in accordance to local recipes are second to none!Qwww.kali.hr.

17.07 » Šokolijada For those who prefer delicacies such as smoked ham and bacon, this international and gastronomic event is a meaty taste bud grenade. Not only that, it helps preserve a 17th century tradition from Nin which is all about the process of salting, spicing, marinating, smoking and drying pork neck. Competition is fierce with ancestral recipes at stake but it’s all in good fun. It’s a true ‘dig in and savour’ session. Prestige for some, a hearty meal for others!Qwww. nin.hr.

04.08 » The Festival of Salt The Nin Salt Works (Solana Nin) is a rarity in today’s world as it is one of the last few sites where salt is produced ‘ala natural’, whilst keeping the local flora and fauna intact. This festival showcases various dioramas, individual plants and animals from the area, different salt crystals and more..QThe Nin Salt Works Museum and Shop, Ilirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64, www. solananin.hr/.

23.09 - 02.10 » Zadar Street Food Festival We’re yet to meet a good festival we didn’t love, and this magical manifestation of gourmet burgers, fish delicacies and Pinsa pizzas is no different. The best of the best from Zadar will be serving up delicious delights for hungry punters at Puntamika, with expertly mixed cocktails on hand for the thirsty. Needless to say, we’ll see you there. QG‑5, Beach & Cocktail Bar Bam‑ boo, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, Free, www.zadarfoodfestival.com.

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Photo by Višnja Arambašić Summer 2022 13

Restaurants Croatian 2Ribara A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!!QC‑3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, www.2ribara.com/ zadar/en/. Open 12:00-23:00. (70-250kn). A PB 4 kantuna This informal modern restaurant and pizzeria located on an atmospheric square reopened in 2017 and has proven to be a hit. It serves everything from salads, bruschettas, pastas and risottos to fish and a particularly imaginative offering of grilled meats. The dessert menu is especially popular with guests.QD‑3, Varoška 1, tel. (+385-) 091 313 53 82, www.restaurant4kantuna.com. Open 12:0023:00. (65-200 kn). A BJ Bistro Pjat First things first, the service at Pjat is second to none. Energetic, effusive and endlessly enthusiastic, expect to be given all the attention you require beforehand and then left to enjoy the meal once it arrives. What’s on the menu? Well, you’ll be shown the various fish available beforehand, and the offer changes depending on what has been caught that day, so you’ll just have to wait and see. Alternatively, go for the gulaš, because gulaš is always a good idea. Small but perfectly formed. The bistro, that is, not the gulaš. QC‑3, Stomorica 10, tel. (+385- 23) 21 39 19. Open 11:00-23:00; closed Sun. (80- 170kn). Bruschetta The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade’ and with quality products from the local Zadar region on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different types of pizza and pasta.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 29 15, www.bruschetta.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (90-210kn). A PGBJW Corte This restaurant in a small boutique hotel is delighting guests with perfect food, perfect surroundings and personal attention to detail. The food is faithful to local cuisine but with a twist, masterfully executed. The wine list is also fabulous. The restaurant is open from 07:30, the garden is a great spot for a sunshine breakfast close to the Sea Organ.QA‑3, Braće Bersa 2, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 57, www. almayer.hr. Open 07:30-22:00. (80-200kn). AB Foša One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for great fish.QD‑4, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 21, www.fosa.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (240-270kn). A PGUBSJW

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14 Bastion ZadarArchive In Your Pocket Hotel

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Restaurants Gourmet Kalelarga Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and tables, this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as asparagus dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious sweets. A warning for all the carnivores - the meat dishes are to-die-for! Try out the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a side of grilled vegetables or some savoury fried potatoes, polished off with a glass of wine made by locals from the Zadar region. For dessert, don’t miss out on tasting the fantastic chocolate pistachio pie. Stop by and you won’t be disappointed.QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. Open 07:00 - 11:00; 18:00 - 23:00. (80 - 140kn). APGB Harbor Cookhouse & Club Harbor Cookhouse & Club sits on the waterfront of Zadar harbour, unsurprisingly, offering impeccable views of the water and of Zadar’s old town on the other side. Decked out in the fashion of a stylish yacht, this coastal eatery is certainly one to have on your ‘must-go’ list if you’re visiting the area. Popular with locals and tourists alike, you’ll find something here to suit at all times of day; whether a coffee to start the morning, a cool glass of vino over a light lunch, or a few beers with your dinner. There are offers each day, a business lunch menu proves exceptional value. The à la carte menu is very much that, with the meals on offer changing. If available, try the seafood burger.QC‑1, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+385-23) 30 15 20, www.harbor.hr. Open 08:00-23:00. (80-700kn). A PGBE Kaštel Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams. If you want local gastronomy, look no further! Restaurant Kaštel is located at Hotel Bastion, a new member of the luxurious Relais & Châteaux association.QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50, www.hotel-bastion.hr. Open 13:0023:00. (145 - 240kn). A PGBL Kornat Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risotto.QB‑2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 01, www.restaurant-kornat.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (75200kn). A PGBJ6W Malo misto The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music.QC‑3, Jurja Dal‑ matinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, www. malo-misto.com. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 18:00-23:00. (100-250kn). APGBW facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Niko Popularly called ‘kod Erika’ by locals, this restaurant is located on the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb choice of fresh fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid or try out a tuna carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the best shrimp pasta in town, this is a gastronomic heaven for fish lovers.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+38523) 33 78 88, www.hotel-niko.hr. Open 16:00-23:00. (90-190kn). A PGSL6W Pet Bunara This charming restaurant greets its guests with an alluring and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious contemporary dishes, like ravioli and cold white fish with artichokes or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh octopus salad. Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter, that is not only appealing to the eye, but tastes great. During this summer season, many dishes are served with figs, from slices of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce, to desserts, like queen lady fig cake. You’re in for a real treat! QD‑3, Stratico ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, www.petbunara. com. Open 12:00-22:30; closed Tue. (85-245kn). A P GBS6W

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Restaurants timate as Zadar gets, serving up gorgeous seafood in an intimate setting defined by the stories that have helped it develop. An extension recently opened across the street, but the initial spot remains as amorous as ever. QC‑3, Medijevaca 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40. Open 12:0022:00. (100-130kn). Zadar - Jadera A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day’s catch. You won’t find any fisherman here but the surroundings will give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it’s small and intimate and if you’re after a typical home made cuisine then this is a gem.QC‑2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 59, www.zadarjadera.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (60-200kn). A PGBJ

Ethnic Maguro restaurant & sushi bar Asian and Mediterranean fusion at its best! This is the city’s first ever sushi bar offering curry dishes, soups, ramen, sushi, desserts, fish and meat dishes. Special emphasis is on local produce in regards to veggies, truffles and wine. Yet, the highlight is on the local tuna, bred and caught in the nearby Kali tuna farm; it defines much of what this restaurant is all about. QC‑3, Borelli 10, tel. (+385-23) 31 38 70, www.maguro.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (50-220kn). APGTBJ Proto Food & More Proto is turning heads with its excellent reviews on social media thanks to the all-round experience offered. Informed and friendly staff, simple soothing decor, a Croatian/Dalmatian cuisine with copious portions and at reasonable prices. Open from sunrise to sunset, you may need to book to get a seat here. Check their Facebook site for specials, traditional Thursdays are a hit and the menu is pleasantly diversified with wholesome meat to seafood to burgers to pašticada to gnocchi to risotto and much more.QD‑3, Ulica Obitelji Stratico 1, tel. (+385-23) 38 64 31. Open 12:00-22:45. (85-200kn). A PGTBSJK Trattoria Canzona Are you up for an excellent meal on the grill? Then head to the Varoš district in Zadar where it’s hard to find a free seat come peak summer. Choose from rare to well done as Leo the owner has a copyright to all his genuine grill delicacies. Meal sizes and prices are proportional.QC‑3, Sv. Nediljice 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81. Open 16:00-23:00. (65 - 170kn). APGXBJW Trattoria Mediterraneo We like our trattorias to be postage stamp small and dripping in romance, so needless to say we’re all in on Trattoria Mediterraneo. A gorgeous little restaurant in the heart of the old town, Trattoria Mediterraneo is just about as in16 Zadar In Your Pocket

Italian Pašta & Svašta This quaint bistro is beautifully decorated with a huge painting of the coast, along with flower pots adorning the walls. As the name implies, they offer traditional Italian pasta dishes, such as Fusilli and Fettucini, as well as bruschetta, octopus salad and many more delicious options. QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 74 01, www.pastasvasta.com. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. (75-200kn). A PGBJ6W Salsa Rossa Satisfy your desire for Italian cuisine with delicious pinsas, burgers Italian style and other Italian specialties. You can enjoy your meal on their lovely terrace.QC‑3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 14, www.salsarossa.eu. Open 11:00-23:00. (40-120kn). APGBW

Lamb Sabunjar Some traditions are very much worth reviving, and if those traditions involve tender-as-anything meat cooked under a hermetically-sealed ash-covered lid, then we’re all aboard this delicious train. Sabunjar is one of the best places in Zadar to taste lamb cooked most traditionally, zadar.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants so get yourself on the main road to Split and keep an eye out for the Studenac hypermarket; Sabunjar is just across the road.QJadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55, www. restoran-sabunjar.hr. Open 07:00-22:00. (36-160kn). A PGBLW Tamaris Don’t be put off by the visuals, this stuff is delicious. Scratch that, the image of a lamb turning on a spit is part of the experience, and is right up there among the most delectable dishes in this wonderful part of the world. Tamaris is the place to go, a large, modern restaurant in a small three-star hotel. There are other charcoalgrilled specialities, of course, but that lamb is the way to go.QO‑2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, www. tamaris-zadar.com.hr. Open 07:00-23:00. (75-250kn). A PGUBL6W

Ti Tapas Vino i Pianino The sun is shining, the water stretches out in front of you, you’ve got your buddies around you and what seems to be a conveyor belt of gorgeous tapas and wine being served. Does it get any better than that? Spoiler alert, no, it doesn’t. Ti Tapas is tapas magic, a stunner of a spot to enjoy good food and better times. Local wines accentuate the gastronomic innovation displayed in those bitesize morsels of marvellous food. QJurja Bijankinija 8, tel. (+385-) 097 646 53 88. Open 09:00-23:00; closed Sun. (40-90kn). APBW

Pizza Mamma Mia Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying.QH‑3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46, www. mammamia.fullbusiness.com/. Open 12:00-23:00. (55255kn). A PGTUBS6W Tri bunara This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy, it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QB‑3, Jurja Bijankinija 8c, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90, www.pizzeria-tribunara.com. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 13:00-23:00. (52- 94kn). N PGTBSJ6

Quick Eats Piterija Mantana Sometimes, you just need some quality pie. Zadar (and Dalmatia on the whole) might not be as pie-obsessed as spots inland but that doesn’t mean you can’t find it, with Piterija Mantana at the top of the table here. Meat, cheese, spinach, potato, it is all here, all prepared fresh and ready for a morning pick-me-up. It is tucked away in a little residential spot outside the centre, but isn’t that where all the best pita places are? QKneza Draškovića 2, tel. (+385-) 099 378 38 73. Open 10:00-21:00; closed Sun. (12-15kn). facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Vegetarian The Botanist Long overdue, Zadar’s first fully vegan and vegetarian restaurant is an utter delight. The food? Delicious, of course, with creativity and love found from the top of the menu to the bottom. That creativity extends to the names of the dishes too, all of which take their names from bizarre and unusual monikers found throughout the animal kingdom. Pigbutt Worm? Boops Boops? Dumbo Octopus? We’ll take one of everything, thanks. QMihovila Pavlinovića 4, tel. (+385-) 092 416 65 74. Open 08:00-24:00. Summer 2022

Coffee & Cakes Donat Many Zadar folks reckon this to be the best ice cream in town. The cookie dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure.QB‑3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29/ (+385-) 098 917 51 00, www.donatice.hr. Open 08:0024:00. NPGBW Forum A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.QC‑3, Široka ulica 18. Open 07:00-24:00. APGTBW Gelateria Eva The temperature suddenly drops with organic ice-cream made according to traditional recipes and covered with icycles to maintain quality of the highest order. On top of that, prices are quoted by cornets and not scoops. Beat the heat wave and choose your flave! Also at Ante Starčevića 1 (main bus station).QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 8, tel. (+385-23) 69 77 61. Open 07:00-22:00. 07:00 - 24:00. APGB Guam Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down. QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 47, tel. (+385-) 098 981 33 05. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 07:30-24:00. NPBW Art Kavana If you appreciate excellent, imaginative cakes you really must call into this cake shop. The range is frequently refreshed with new creations to suit the season, there are macarons… the problem is deciding what to choose. Cakes are freshly made and beautifully presented. Coffee and cake, that most indulgent of rituals. QE‑2, Bar‑ tola Kašića 1, tel. (+385-23) 40 08 00, www.art-kavana. business.site/. Open 07:00-23:00. APGBW

Lovre The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the interior is actually a former church. Relax by day and experience the fun in Lovre by night with regular live gigs and DJ performances.QC‑3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. Open 07:00-24:00. N PGB6W

Coffee & Cake Since its opening in 2016, the assortment of classic cakes, croissants and desserts offered have become a fav amongst the locals. The added distinction here are the raw cakes that are made and not baked; they are prepped from natural ingredients and they look so scrumptious that few can resist. Choose to dine in or soak up the sun with seating available outdoors.QC‑3, Ulica Braće Vran‑ janina 14, tel. (+385-) 091 302 81 10. Open 07:00-23:00; Sun 08:00-23:00. GBJW Danica A sparkling modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of their tasty homemade cakes and pastries made on site. Opposite the National Theatre. QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16, www.restoranizadar.hr. Open 07:00-23:00. July, August open 07:00 01:00. A PGB 18 Zadar In Your Pocket

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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Hangin’ Out Arkada A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy couches, very popular with the teeny crowd.QD‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-) 095 371 47 38. Open 08:0001:00. BW Backstage Bar Entertainment for all lovers of the 1950s and ‘60s. Reinvigorating the atmosphere of New Orleans or even the spirit of Frank Sinatra with the swingy jazzy sound is what it’s all about! Lots of Croatian artists and bands are locked in for summer gigs, so stay tuned for more news!QL‑3, Andrije Hebranga 9, tel. (+385-) 091 222 07 68. Open 07:0024:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-24:00. N PGTBE6W Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo This bar looks like a gigantic deck on the beach and is a great spot to sit back, relax and take in the wonderful sights of the sea, local island and people. Open all day long, you can enjoy a drink anytime, from dawn to dusk. Start your day off with some quiet meditation as you sip on your morning coffee. In the afternoon, grab a drink with some friends and stretch out on a lounge chair under one of the numerous canopies made of palm branches. While in the evening, enjoy watching the magnificent sunset, before dressing up and coming out for a cocktail at night.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, www.bamboozadar.com. Open 07:00-01:30. NGTB6W Brlog craft bar & shop The craft beer revolution has been a delightful ride over the last few years, but the independent hoppy world remains excessively male-dominated. Still, Brlog could be brewed by aliens and it would be awesome, but the backstory of this bear’s den adds a little extra oomph to the offer. The taproom is a great place to head for a summer’s beer away from the crowds, and there’s no better place for a beer than direct from the source. Expect good conversation and dogs. QAndrije Hebranga 6. Open 16:0024:00; closed Sun. Cafe Gallery Gina Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street.QC‑3, Varoška 2. Open 08:0024:00. A PGBJ6W Deja Brew Zadar is one of the finest cities in Croatia for craft beer lovers, and the vaulted ceiling of Deja Brew is right at the forefront of the revolution. A whole host of Croatian craft concoctions fill the menu along with more familiar faces, while the cocktails and spirits are on hand for those not looking for ales and stouts. The Baroque palace setting is stunning, proving once more that delicious beer and gorgeous architecture are just about the greatest combination on the planet. QC‑3, Borelli 8. Open 08:00-02:00; Sat 10:00-02:00; Sun 16:00-02:00. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Forty Bar Coffe & Food The stunning D-Marin Borik, part of a relatively new marina, is home to the Forty Bar; a new place where people gather for a fine meal or relax for drinks. The terrace views by the pool overlooking the Adriatic are breath-taking. Whether you’re strolling through or docking at the marina, the finely decorated Forty Bar is always worth a visit. Serving breakfast (07:00 - 12:30) and sushi in the evening 15:00 - 23:00.QG‑5, D-Marin Borik ,Obala kneza Domagoja 1. Open 07:00-24:00. A UBLC Hype Bar Newly opened and renovated in Spring 2018, Hype Bar (formerly Kocka) is a welcome addition to the Zadar club scene, with a music policy covering R’n’B, house, 80s, 90s, Walkman parties and more.QE‑2, Obala Kneza Branimira 6A, tel. (+385-) 099 282 81 54. Open 21:00-05:00. PXW Kult In the very heart of Zadar this café by day and bar by night is a popular spot for students. There are DJ nights, karaoke nights, big screens for sports… Fun, friendly and lively. Good cocktails too!QC‑3, Stomorica 6a, tel. (+385-) 091 333 31 40. Open 07:30-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:30-01:30; Sun 10:00-24:00. A PBJ6W Ledana Lounge bar Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is ‘icy’ in our lingo. It is totally new and out of this world, it has a luminous icy blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for escaping the hot sun. Choose to chill on one of three terraces where you can indulge in some live music and concerts as well as huge theme party nights.QD‑3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-) 098 630 760, www. ledana.hr. Open 08:00-03:00. A PB6W Lotus A relaxed, alternative vibe, unless you consider young people straining desperately to be different a negation of the term “relaxed”. The music confidently straddles rock and punk genres.QC‑4, Stomorica 7. Open 07:00-24:00; closed Sun. N PBJ6W Svarog Bar More of a nightclub than a bar, Svarog is on the stoneflagged Trg pet bunara and is one of the most popular nightspots in Zadar. The music is mainly R’n’B with a smattering of house. Very busy at weekends.QD‑3, Trg pet bu‑ nara, tel. (+385-) 095 775 30 09. Open 20:00-06:00. BJ Teatro Bar A great place to warm up and mingle while standing with a glass in your hand! The aura that surrounds is filled with famous quotes, staged masks and theatre curtains. ‘To be or not to be’, this is the place to be…QD‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 4, tel. (+385-) 091 734 07 69. Open 08:0001:00. NPBW Summer 2022

Hangin’ Out The Factory bar It is as if the interior had been mirrored from the TV series ‘Sex and the City’. Original walls, TV monitors and the general décor have wooed punters. It’s a bar in the city centre that guarantees for a good time with a splash of urban music bellowing.QD‑3, Rušera Boškovića 4, tel. (+385-) 097 730 26 62. Open 08:00-01:00. APBW The Garden Lounge Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks and downtempo electronica.QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 33 32 04, www. thegarden.hr/the-garden-lounge. Open 10:00-24:00. A UBJ6W

Trooper We’re simple beasts here at Zadar In Your Pocket; if you’re serving delicious Brlog craft beer and playing Ænima (Tool, nerds) in its entirety, we’re going to sit there and drink as much of that beer as possible from Stinkfist all the way through to Third Eye. The premier rock bar in Zadar’s old town is the place to go for good beer and better tunes. QJurja Dalmatinca 8. Open 09:00-24:00; Sun 15:0024:00. Yachting Bar A super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail into the cordially named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling peckish. We have first and only shisha bar in Zadar on the roof top with exeptional view on the marina and the sea. QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 1, Borik, tel. (+385-) 095 539 53 91. Open 07:00-02:00. N PBEW

Secret Sun Dance Archive

20 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing Essential Zadar City Forum (Forum) The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood. The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.QB‑3. City Gates (Gradska vrata) The city walls have had several entrances knocked through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history. Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within the walls and the sea outside them. The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat. Between the ferryport and market is the Sea Gate (also known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. Near the bridge on the north side is the neoRenaissance Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square with the harbour area. QD‑2. City Lodge (Gradska loža) Built by the same architect as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library. With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the international photography triennial facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

“Man and the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.QD‑3, Narodni trg, www. nmz.hr. Admission 20/10kn. J City Sentinel (Gradska straža) Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects.QC‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. Admission 20/10kn. City Walls (Gradski bedemi) Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications than there are now, but what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells Square – you can see huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage facilities. On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj – a peaceful vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.QC/D‑ 2. Greeting to the Sun Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions.QA‑3. St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Stošije) An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga. Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristy.QB‑3, Trg svete Stošije. J Summer 2022

Sightseeing St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv. Krševana) A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on the altar.QC‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2. St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as ‘The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’.QB‑3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II, tel. (+38523) 25 06 13. Open 09:00-21:00. Admission 20kn. J

22 Zadar In Your Pocket

Photo by Dalibor Brlek, Greetings to the sun

St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna) East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights.QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. The Riva “Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns. When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began. As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip by day.QA/B/C‑4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

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Sightseeing

The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and – depending on the size and velocity of the wave – chords are played. As you sit and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air.QA‑4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. Zadar City Walls Promenade Zadar was once the largest city-fortress in the Republic of Venice and its City Walls were an important part of an elaborate defensesystem.The City Walls of Zadar, together with the other five components of the Venetian Works of Defense of the 16th and 17th century, located in today’s Croatia, Italy and Montenegro, joined UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2017 as an outstanding monument of the modern maritime fortification scheme.The most impressive part of the Walls is the Land Gate, the main historical entrance to the city built in 1543 by Michele Sanmicheli, a famous Venetian architect. As an integral part of the Walls, it is considered one of the finest Renaissance monuments in whole Dalmatia, boasting its triumphal arch, central passage and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. The walls were renewed in 2020 with the support of the EU funds and facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

the promenade in length of 750 meters was opened on November 24th last year, the day of Saint Chrisogonus – the city patron of Zadar.

Landmarks Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.QD‑3, Trg 5 bunara. The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula) A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space. QD‑3, Trg pet bunara. The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument (Gradsko groblje) Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not all that morbid.QR‑3. Summer 2022

Sightseeing Museums Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the Archaeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in far-flung parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages. Archaeological Museum in Zadar displays ancient Rome in a new contemporary way by using thematic sections to describe life in ancient Zadar (Lader) and areas of the southern part of Liburni (Northern Dalmatia). As well, stat-

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ues of Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius and one of Tiberius’s successors, along with numerous inscriptions, sculptures and portraits that are included at this permanent exhibition. QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, www. amzd.hr. Open 09:00-21:00. Admission 30kn. J Museum of Illusions The Museum of Illusions is an optical tour de force that’s a thrill for the whole family. In the heart of Zadar’s old town, the museum is unique in this part of Europe. Trick your mind and your senses with an array of exhibitions that will change the way you see the world around you. Come take a tour of a place like no other. You won’t believe your eyes!QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog Odbora 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 03, www.zadar.muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00-22:00. Admission 70/50kn and for families 200kn. Rector’s Palace (Kneževa palača) One of the city’s prized buildings, the 13th-century Rector’s Palace is located in the eastern part of the Zadar peninsula. Over the centuries the palace has experienced many changes, both scarce and stylistic. Archaeological research of its foundations had revealed parts of the building from the Roman and Late Antiquity period to wall structures showing Romanesque and Gothic layers. Historically, three restructured projects have taken place; in the 16th century, 19th century and in the 21st century. The latter was due to its bombing during the Homeland

The Proveditor’s Palace (Providurova palača) Reopened in April 2022, the historic Proveditor’s Palace (Providurova palača) is the second part of a major restoration project that has taken several years to complete. The first part, the Rector’s Palace, was opened in 2017. The adjoining Proveditor’s Palace will, together with the Rector’s Palace, now form an integrated arts-and-culture centre known a the Two Palaces (Dvije palače), holding the collections of the city museums and art galleries as well as hosting major exhibitions and concerts. The oldest parts of the Proveditor’s Palace date from 1607, although it was significantly remodelled in the 18th and 19th centuries. The Proveditor was something like a “governor”, the leading Venetian official who was responsible for local government and military security. Now a bright, modern space, the palace looks set to become the stunning venue for contemporary art shows and musical performances. A busy programme of events is already in place QTrg Petra Zoranića / Poljana Šime Budinića 3, tel. (+385-23) 62 77 64. Open 10:00-22:00; closed Sun. Admission 40. Unified ticket costing 100 kn and includes entry to Rector’s and Proveditor’s Palace. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing War where it was hit by eight large calibre missiles, causing heavy destruction and damaging the statics of the building. Now and as of recent, the palace has been reconstructed thanks to EU funding and is now a modern equipped cultural complex. This new tourist attraction unites the museum space, its temporary exhibition halls, and representative halls decorated and conserved in different historical styles. It also has a video gallery, concert and multimedia halls. In keeping to its natural and original beauty, the Rector’s Palace is now a treasure of the city well worth visiting.QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića. Open 10:00-22:00; closed Sun. Admission 70. Unified ticket costing 100 kn and includes entry to Rector’s and Proveditor’s Palace. Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar (Zlato i srebro Zadra) If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread. The collection is presented in intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry. QB‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/ (+385-23) 25 48 20. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 25/10 kn. The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog stakla) The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions. It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour. The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored. Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest souvenirstops in the city.QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.maszadar.hr. Open 09:00-21:00. Admission 30/10kn. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Photo by Bojan Bogdanić

Sightseeing

3D Sculptural Representation of Zadar It can be difficult to get a proper sense of the full scope of Zadar’s old town, and we’ve often longed for a 3D sculptural representation of it for afternoon perusal and contemplation. What’s more, we’d like the sculpture to be located next to the marina, for added beauty. What’s that? Our prayers have been answered? Hallelujah! Head to the marina to check out the work of Damir Mataušić, and get a better idea of where you’ve been walking in the process. QZadar City Walls, Muraj.

Parks Mustapan Forest Park Looking for a way to entertain the kids while in Zadar? There are plenty of options, but the excitement and energy expelled at Musapstan Forest Park will guarantee a good night’s sleep for all involved. The park is a natural wonder just 10km outside the centre of Zadar, famous for its walking trails and playgrounds, great for escaping the summer heat and romantically ambling in the shade. Gorgeous. Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj kraljice Jelene-Madijevka) Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest – that distinction goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square. Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a gar-

den on top of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful for.QD/E‑3. Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira Nazora) Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia). Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city - a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years after it was completed, and the park was named after him – against his wishes.QE‑3.

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Zadar Surroundings Spending a few days around Zadar If you consider yourself a true devotee to quality food, autochthonic specialties and some added history in between, then we have the ‘do all, know all’ information about the Zadar region which will certainly enrich your gastronomic and travel experience. There are a couple of culinary hot spots you simply have to experience either for their goodish foodish offers or for the historical tales that add to the entire experience. For a sense of local fiesta outdoor market style, head to the geographical region known as Ravni kotari where a fair with a century-old tradition takes place on the10th of each month, in the town of Benkovac. This is the closest you’ll get to seeing locals from inland Dalmatia at their prime. Sure, there is livestock, handcrafted tools and pottery for sale, but the food offer adds to that indescribable experience. Lamb on the spit is consumed like water in the desert. Local lamb and goat meat is per excellence, take the opportunity to try ‘lamb tripe with peas’ or rooster under the ‘peka’, an iron bell hovered with burning wood and coal. What surely impresses is the homemade bread baked in the ‘peka’, wood oven style; and if you happen to get a snail or two that were baked alongside the bread, you’ve got yourself a winning combination. When going to Ravni kotari, a visit to local winemakers is a definite must. See list ... Posedarje is a place for lovers of prosciutto. The process of salting and drying meat appeared in Dalmatia under Italian influence as brought by their princes and governors. Nowadays, authentic prosciutto from Posedarje is quite the

specific product and it seems that the secret is in the climate. Since this area is a combination of wind and sea, the land and air thrives with salt. The livestock here is therefore primed for quality meat! Once in Posedarje you can see the 15th century Church of the Holy Spirit. There is a stone belfry above the entrance door and a bell is kept inside the church which is only set during mass celebrations. There are no decorations or inscriptions on the bell itself. On the feast day of Pentecost, Posedarje also celebrates its Municipality Day. Pentecost is traditionally celebrated with a boat procession along a nearby island where mass is celebrated next to the Early Romanic Church of the Holy Spirit. This happens to be a true gathering as a large number of pilgrims from all surrounding areas come to celebrate. Then there is the coastal town of Nin for a taste of šokol which is obtained from pork neck meat. It is treated much like prosciutto; for three to seven days it lays in pure sea salt and is then marinated in red wine and coated with several kinds of spices. The unique aromatic flavours and ingredients of herbs from the Velebit Mountain and the sea air itself affect the drying process and the quality of Nin’s šokol. The Island of Pag is the destination for cheese lovers. From a place called Lun in the north of the island to Povljana in the south, the traditional production of cheese is characteristic of the whole island. The key factor to the success in Pag’s cheese is in its raw content – pure sheep milk native to the island. The other key factor lay in the aging process. Young cheese matures for about five months, while old cheese matures for about a year or more. In order to

Photo by Nena Lukin

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Zadar Surroundings produce one kilogram of cheese, six litres of sheep milk is used. Years of perfecting the art of cheese making saw Pag cheese Gligora enter the top 10 cheeses of the world in 2010, and has since received the award for ‘The Best Central and Eastern European Cheese’. For those who want a real getaway there is the peaceful and quiet island of Premuda. It is adjoined to the tiny islet of Školj which locals have nicknamed Lutrošnjak. For generations they have kept sheep on the islet and built little houses called ‘blago’, which were built in the so-called suhozid (dry wall) technique; stone joined in series without any binding material, and some of which still remain. Sheep were kept on the island during the year and women would make cheese in these little houses, staying there for several days. If you decide to go to the island of Ugljan, make sure to visit the Inventory Collection of the Monastery of St. Paul the Hermit. The monastery complex was built on the island Galevac (Školjić), situated opposite the village of Preko, on the island of Ugljan. Legend has it that the monastery was founded by the followers of St. Paul in the 14th century, whilst the construction of the monastery took place during the 15th century. The inventory collection of the monastery consists of more than 56 items.

Much can still be appreciated in Zadar with the culmination of natural resources and applied ancient techniques still so highly valued by its citizens today. It is clear that some things truly can stand the test of time!

Islands Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover.

Dugi otok Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of

The Underground Town of Paklenicai Beneath the breath-taking natural phenomena of the Paklenica Canyon which is home to hikers, mountain climbers and bush walkers, a bunker from the 1950s is still in the renovation phase but is open to the public. At a depth of 80 meters, visitors can face the man made rock climbing wall, watch some multimedia screens on tying knots, rock climbing and the park’s history, as well as see the work park rangers and rescue do before continuing on with their hiking journey.

Photo by D.Jović

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Zadar Surroundings

the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast. If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island. Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones. A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay - the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

telascica.hr. The working hours of the main entrance to Dolac are from 08:00 to 20:00. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are avail‑ able and on duty 00:00-24:00 inside park premises. En‑ trance ticket cost 240 - 12000kn depending on the size of the boat. Entrance ticket from the mainland costs 20 - 100kn.

Ist & Molat Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 - count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep. It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks.

Dugi otok Tourist Board QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, www.dugiotok.hr.

Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.

Nature Park “Telašćica” QSali X 1, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96, www.pp-

Zadar Tourist Board Office Qtel. (+385-23) 27 70 21.

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Zadar Surroundings Iž

rAVA

This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline.

Tiny Rava is sited between the islands of Iž and Dugi Otok. Shaped like a figure of 8 with two large bays, it has two tiny settlements, about 100 inhabitants, one shop, one rather good restaurant, small coves suitable for swimming and a limited amount of private accommodation. If your aim is to escape far from the madding crowd, peaceful Rava may well be for you.

The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches.

Silba, Olib & Premuda

The islanders live from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart. If you’re really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim there.

Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual monument – a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.

Zadar Tourist Board Office QVeli Iž, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21.

Pašman You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage. If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http:// fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches. Pašman Tourist Board QPašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, www.pasman.hr. Tkon Tourist Board QMulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, www.tzo-tkon.hr. 30 Zadar In Your Pocket

Zadar Tourist Board Office QRava, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66.

These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see “Getting around”).

Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script – the alphabet in which Croatian was first written. Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts – it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway. Silba Tourist Board QSilba, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, www.tzsilba.hr.

Ugljan That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements you’ll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest.

Dugi otok, Photo by Chiara Veranich Rava, Photo by Boris Kačan

Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko. On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day. Kukljica Tourist Board QKukljica ulica II 87, tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, www. kukljica.hr. Preko Tourist Board QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, www. preko.hr.

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Zadar Surroundings est is 1600 years old. The Lunj Olive Grove is unique in the world because of the large numbers of old wild olive trees that have remained together for thousands of years. A real gem in Croatia’s proud heritage! Nin Salt Works & Church of the Holy Cross (Solana Nin & Crkva svetog Križa) The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea – the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area. Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled with the essential elements that have seen the production of salt continue according to traditional methods unto this day. Some of the archeological highlights are located in Nin. Such as the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world.QNin. Photo by Mavar, Nin Tourist Board Archive

Top Sights Asseria At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th century. You can also see remains from the days when this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin (Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth of the river Karišnica, where it widens into the lagoon named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.QBenkovac. Lunj Olive Grove (Lunjski Maslenik) Located in the very north of the gorgeous island of Pag, in the Novalja area, the Lunj Olive Grove stretches over 24 acres and has been intact for centuries making it a true rarity in its own right. There are natural wild olive trees called Olea oleaster linea with more than 80,000 altogether, out of which 1,500 are 1200 years old on average and the old32 Zadar In Your Pocket

Paklenica National Park The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar within the Velebit mountain range. Two streams,the Velika and Mala Paklenica, carve their way through the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flourish. Local residents include sparrowhawks, chamois, wild boar, brown bears, wolves and lynx. The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though there are many more demanding routes. The park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation is available – reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: planinari.paklenica@gmail. com. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on www.np-paklenica.hr). Starigrad, the town at the park’s entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities. QDr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. (+38523) 36 92 02/(+385-23) 36 91 55, www.np-paklenica. hr. Ticket 40/60. Sakarun - Dugi otok Looking for that picture perfect beach! Then look no further as Sakarun is one of the most beautiful beaches in the Zadar area. It is situated near the towns of Veli Rat, Veruni, Soline and Božava and its white sandy beach stretches 800 meters in length. A string of pine trees surround the beach which also has two eateries. Jump on board the tourist train which leaves Božava and Sakarun every two hours!Qwww.dugiotok.hr. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings Saljske užance The Saljske Užance (Sali Festival), is a festival which has been taking place, at Sali, on Dugi Otok (Long Island), since 1959, during the first weekend of every August. It was created in order to preserve the traditional customs, folklore costumes and cuisine of the local islanders.The festival begins on the Thursday and lasts until the Sunday, on which day they hold traditional ‘donkey races.’ In addition, at this unique event, you can listen to performances by, Tovareća mužika, a famous musical group from Sali, which made the 2012 list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of the Republic of Croatia. Qwww.dugiotok.hr. The Northern Velebit National Park With impressive peaks and chasms, karst landscapes and impenetrable forests, the Northern Velebit is a mosaic made up of the most diverse habitats, which is why the Northern Velebit was proclaimed a National Park. The Northern Velebit is an ideal place to visit for an active holiday. Among the best-known locations in the National Park are Zavižan, the Velebit Botanical Gardens, the Premužić Trail, Štirovača, Alan and Lubenovac. Zavižan and Alan have open grassy spaces, thick forests and huge limestone boulders, surrounded by the peaks offering magnificent views of the sea and the Lika region. In the Velebit Botanical Gardens you can enjoy the wealth of the Velebit flora. Štirovača is an area of exceptionally thick forests of spruce and fir and is home to the only wetland in the Park. Lubenac, a spacious Velebit grassland, has numerous ruins of shepherds’ cottages and dry stone walls which bear witness to peoples’ lives in times past.

St. Nicholas church, Photo by Ivan Corić facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

The Premužić Trail traverses the entire Velebit range, passing through incredible karst landscapes, and is an incredible feat of engineering. At Alan you can stay in renovated shepherds’ huts, experience the traditional way of life and learn about the natural environment. The renovation of the huts has made possible the reintroduction of livestock farming as a measure for preserving biodiversity. To lean more and buy entry tickets, Velebit House, open all year, is an information centre located in the village of Krasno. An especial attraction is the experience of entering a chasm using a special “lift”. QKrasno 96, Krasno, www. np-sjeverni-velebit.hr. Vrana Lake Nature Park This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The later is only allowed outside borders of the Ornithological reserve which takes up the northern part of the lake. The park is encircled by more than 50 km of bike trails and thus popular among the bicyclists. Biking routes get hilly on the eastern coast of the lake. The visit to the Park makes a nice break from the hubbub of the coast. By purchasing a ticket, visitors have access to the entire Vrana Lake Nature Park, ie the entrance to three info centers: Kamenjak, Prosika and Crkvine. The purchased ticket is valid for one day to visit all locations in the Park. Tickets can be purchased at all three info centers. QKralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, www.pp-vransko-jezero.hr/hr/. Ticket 15/70.

Summer 2022

Shopping Bio svijet Eco-friendly products on offer including fresh organic vegetables picked from the outskirts of Zadar. It’s located opposite the bus station, ground floor of the shopping center. Also at Knezova Šubić Bribirskih 4. QN‑5, Ante Starčevića bb, tel. (+385-23) 40 00 18, www.bio-svijet.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. A Borovo Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QC‑3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 13 37, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:0021:00; Sat 08:00-15:00; closed Sun.

Croatian Traditional Costumes Archive

Atrox vina A well-stocked store with imported and Croatian wines from all regions, as well as sparkling wines and champagnes! The company occasionally organises the promotion of local wines in collaboration with local hotels or restaurants. So deep thinkers of wine, or connoisseurs of the fine drop will find Atrox vina heaven on earth.QD‑1, J.J.Strosmayera 14, tel. (+385-23) 30 54 26, www.atrox-zadar.hr. Open 09:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. A Barrel Wine Store If you devour a fine wine, then this store is just for you. The concept is driven by the staff’s passion for wine production, noting the specifics to each available wine that will best suit your mood or pallet. You can get an authentic Croatian red or white, or even a champagne as a memoir or to take back home. All in all, the city of Zadar is all the richer with the opening of the Barrel Wine Store, which promotes regional wines to every customer. QK‑4, Ul. Stjepana Radića 6c, tel. (+385-) 091 613 35 52, www.barrel.com.hr/. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. A Bibich A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet products and gifts.QC‑3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 46. Open 09:00-21:00; closed Sun. A 34 Zadar In Your Pocket

Buža As you stroll towards ‘Four kantuna’ at the top of Klaićeva Street, you will hardly notice this small gallery which bares the popular name buža (locally defined as a ‘hole’). Be sure to drop by this small family owned gallery run by academic painters Nedeljko Šuvar and Duje Šuvar.QD‑3, Mihovila Klaića 4. Open 10:0013:00, 16:00-20:00; closed Sun. N Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. QD‑2, Ulica Jurja Barakovića5 (Cedulin Palace), tel. (+385-23) 20 70 79, www.croata.hr/in-en/frontpage. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Sun. Degarra Winery The interior is like something out of an oenophile’s dream, all exposed brickwork and minimalist charm, but it is important to remember that the decor is secondary to the decanting and Degarra. This is a winery, not a design shop, and the available wines are fantastic. Degarra is all about sensory arousal through the classical wine stylings, so head here for a glass or two and then pick up a bottle to take home. QPut vrela bb, tel. (+385-) 091 232 30 20. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Sun. A Fiolić Wines You can’t come to Dalmatia without sampling a decent range of gorgeous local wines (this is non-negotiable), so get yourself to Fiolić tasting room and let the grapes do the work. There are three tasting options, ranging from three wines to full-on oenophile extravaganzas accentuated by liqueurs and Dalmatian snacks. It also functions as a shop, if you’d rather pick zadar.inyourpocket.com

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Shopping

20/06/202

up a bottle or three to take home. QIvana Duknovića 11, tel. (+385-) 098 89 10 17. By prior arrangement. Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheese. Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića 5 (City Market) tel. 70 07 30, Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat & Sun 07:00 - 13:00.QN‑5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-23) 31 33 96, www.gligora.com. Open 07:0020:00; Sat 07:00-13:00; Sun 07;00-13:00. A

winery & wine shop

Jerkin Herbal Pharmacy Jerkin, 45 years in the trade, produce a great range of natural remedies, teas, ointments, tinctures and natural cosmetics.QK‑2, Prilaz Fabijanića 11, tel. (+385-23) 32 23 56/(+385-) 091 524 57 89. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-12:00; closed Sun. AN Laudato Gallery of sacred art and Croatian souvenirs.QD‑3, Don Ive Prodana 11, tel. (+385-23) 30 07 49/(+385C ) 091 589 84 14, www.galerije.laudato.hr. Open 09:00-13:00, 17:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed M Sun. A Y

Maraska CM Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other MY potions to soften your vocal chords and your general CY view of humanity. Other groceries available too.QB‑3, Mate Karamana 3, tel. (+385-23) 20 88 00, www. CMY maraska.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00, Sun K 09:00 - 13:00. The Ancient Glass Museum Shop Some say ‘a glass a day keeps the doctor away’, and you can pick and choose from a wide selection of authentic drinking glasses and other souvenirs made of glass including a wonderful necklace made by Antonija Gospić.QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00-21:00. A The Archaeological Museum Shop An interesting and attractive offer of souvenirs from the museum consists of casts and copies of useful items, jewellery, and simple home decorations made from different materials, from ceramics, plaster, stone and metal. Best of all, it’s all handmade!QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, www.amzd. hr/en/. Open 09:00-21:00. N

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Put Vrela bb, Zadar

degarra.com Summer 2022

Arrival & Getting Around

Silba, Shutterstock

Arriving in Zadar By boat Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the passenger boats dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see there. Jadrolinija’s international services connect Zadar with Ancona (Italy) almost every day. Local ferries (trajektne linije) run from Gaženica Ferry Port (R-5) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar Old Town (J-5) to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it’s well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying the timetable, or ask for help at the office. These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do not take cars on board.Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling. Jadrolinija QR‑5, Gaženička cesta 28a, tel. (+385-23) 66 61 00/(+38523) 66 61 01, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 04:30-01:00. 36 Zadar In Your Pocket

Jadrolinija QA‑2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 55/ (+385-23) 25 05 55, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 06:0021:00; Sat, Sun 07:00-22:00. Miatours Catamaran Lines: Zadar - Premuda - Silba - Olib Pula – (Unije – Susak) – Mali Lošinj – (Ilovik – Silba) – Zadar QB‑2, Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 00/ (+385-23) 25 44 00, www.miatours.hr. Open 08:0014:00; Fri 08:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. A

By bus The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub and has everything you need. Left luggage (garderoba) is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs 4kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the platforms and in front of the building. Getting to town: On the road in zadar.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 16kn ticket bought at news stands buys you two trips.The ticket office at the station is open 05:40 - 22:00. Zadar Coach Station Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations in all points of the compass. The general ticket office is open 05:40 - 22:00.QO‑2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

Liburnija QO‑4, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

Taxi There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to transport your person, for which an equally varied array of prices apply. Ranging from 20kn to 40kn for a 5km trip, your safest bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi. Be aware that a night supplement of 20% applies, and a 60 kn/hr waiting rate is standard. Please make sure the meter is turned on when you enter, for your and the driver’s sake.

By plane Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an ATM. Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn. Zadar Airport (Zračna luka Zadar) Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European destinations. Charter flights during summer. Croatia Airlines desk is open according to flight schedule and also 90mins before Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures.QZemunik Donji, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, www.zadar-airport.hr.

Parking Text Message Parking Croatia is proud to be the first country where you can pay for parking by text message! Look for the signs in parking areas – they should have a blue or white field. Simply send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to 70 8231 ( zone 1), 70 8232 ( zone 2), 70 8233 (zone 3), 70 8234 (zone 4), 70 8236 (Petrčane zone). Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. QAndrije Medulića 2, tel. +385 23 316-924, www. oil.hr/en/parking-zadar.

Public transport City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office outside the train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (10kn for one trip). facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Tourist Information Tourist Information Centre QD‑2, Jurja Barakovića 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, www.zadar.travel. Open 08:00-22:00. Zadar Tourist Board QD‑2, Jurja Barakovića 5, tel. (+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+385-23) 21 17 81, www.zadar.travel. Open 08:00-22:00. Summer 2022

Guma Bar

Harbor Cookhouse & Club

Zadar Tourist Board / Tourist Informa Alesandra Paravije Ante Kuzmanića Bana Josipa Jelačića Bartula Kašića Bedemi zadarskih pobuna Benedikte Braun Bijanchinija Biskupa Jurja Divnića Blaža Jurjeva Borelli Božidara Petranovića Braće Bersa Braće Bilšić Braće Vranjanin Brne Karnarutića Brodarska Ćirila Ivekovića Dalmatinskog Sabora Don Ive Prodana Đure Sudete

B-3 E-3,4 D-1 D-3/E-3 A,B,C,D-2 M-5 K-5/B-3 K-5/B-2 L-6/C-3 L-6/C-3 K-6/A-3 K-6/A-3 K-6/A-3 L-6/C-3 K,L-5/C-2 K-4/L-4/C-1 L-6/C-4 L-5,6 L-5,6/D-3 J-3,4

Elizabete Kotromanić Forum Foša Fra Donata Fabijanića Fra Šimuna Klimantovića Franje iz Milana Frederica Grisogona Grge Oštrića Grgura Mrganića Grigora Viteza Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića Ilije Smiljanića Istarska Obala Ivana Brkanovića Ivana Bršića Ivana Danila Ivana Mažuranića Ivana Meštrovića Jakše Čedomila-Čuke Jerolima Vidulića

L-6/D-3 K-6/C-3 L-6/D,E-4 K-6/A,B-3 L-6/D-4 L-6/D-4 L-5/D-2 J-4 K-6/B-3 L-3 L-6/C-2 L-5,6/D-3 J-5,6/A-3 L-4,5/C-1 K-5 K-6/A-3 K-4,5/B,C-1 K-3,4 K-5/B-3 K-6/B-3

Josipa Jurja Strossmayera Jurja Barakovića Jurja Bijankinija Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva Kazališni prolaz Knezova Šubića Bribirskih Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira Kraljskog Dalmatina Krešimira Čošića Krešimirova obala Liburnska obala Luke Jelića Lukoranska Majke Margarite Mateja Bošnjaka Madijevaca Među bedemima Mihe Klaića Mihovila Pavlinovića Miroslava Krleže

L-4 L-5/D-2,3 K-6/B-3 L-5/C-3 C-3 F-6 M-6 L-6/C-3 M-6 B-4 K-5/B-2 K-6/A-3 K-4 L-6/C-3 K-5/B-2 K,L-6/C-3 M-6 L-6/D-3 L-6/C,D-4 J,K-4

/ Jurja Barakovića 5 / 230 N. Nikole Matafara Narodni trg Narodnog lista Obala kneza Branimira Obala kneza Trpimira Obala k. P. Krešimira Obala kralja Tomislava Oko vrulja Perivoj Jarula Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke Perivoj Vladimira Nazora Pod bedemom Poljana Natka Nodila Poljana Šime Budinića Poljanska Pravdonoše Prečac Nikole Jakšića Prečka Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice Prokonzula Grgura

K-5/B-3 L-6/C,D-3 L-5/D-2 K,L-5/C-1 K-5/A,B,C,D-1 IV K,L-6/B,D-4 L,M-5/D-2 K-4 L,M-5/D,E-2 L,M-6/D,E-3 M-5,6/E-3 K,L-5/C-2 K-5/B-2 C-6/D-3 L,M-3 K-5/B-2 K-4 L-3 K-6 K-5,6/B-2,3

PARKING

LUČKA UPRAVA ZADAR PORT OF ZADAR AUTHORITY

000, Zadar, Croa Put Dikla Put Šimunova Rafaela Levakovića Ravnice Rikarda Jeretova Katalinića Ruđera Boškovića Sirac Slavoljuba Penkale Stara Voštarnica Stomorica Stube Slavoljuba Penkale Sv. Nediljice Šime Ljubavca Šime Ljubića Šime Vitasovića Šimuna Benje Kožičića Široka ulica Špire Brusine Tanzlingera Zanottija Trg opatice Čike

info@zadar.travel / www.zadar.travel G,J-3 L,M-3,4 L-6/D-4 M-6 L-5/C-1 L-6/D-3,4 L-6/D-4 K-4 L-5/C-1 L-6/C-3,4 K-4 L-6/C-4 L-6/D-4 L-6/D-4 L-5/D-2,3 K-5/B-2,3 K,L-6/B,C-3 L-6/D-3 K-6/B-3 B-3

Trg pet bunara Trg Petra Zoranića Trg sv. Frane Trg sv. Krševana Trg sv. Stošije Trg tri bunara Ulica BoreLli Varoška Vatroslava Lisinskog Velebitska Veslačka Vjekoslava Maštrovića Vladimira Papafave Voštarnica Vrata sv. Kršovana Vrata sv. Roka Zadarskog mira Zlatarska Zore dalmatinske Zrinsko-Frankopanska

L-6/D-3 L-6/D-3 K-6/A-3 K-5/B,C-2 K-6/B-3 K-5/A-3 L-6/C-3 L-6/C,D-3 J,K-3,4 L-4,5/D-1 L-4,5/D-1 J-4 K-6/A,B-3 L-4 K-5 K-5 K-6 L-5/C-2 L-6/C-3 M-5

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Photo by Boris Kačan

funparkbiograd.com BIOGRAD NA MORU.CROATIA

Traditionally fresh, tasty and the most delicious Dalmatian cuisine more than 50 years... Welcome & enjoy

Blaža Jurjeva 1, Old City, Zadar +385 (0)23 213 445 www.2ribara.com

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