TH E CAP I TAL O F CR O AT I A
If this season’s cover made you hungry, we don’t blame you. There’s never a bad time to devour (or learn about) štrukle or (zagorski štruklji), and we’ve put together a detailed feature about one of the most popular foods in the region. Enjoy, and don’t forget to wipe your mouth after eating.
Photo: Višnja Arambašić
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Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732
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Croatia In Your Pocket, Paška 37 Zagreb, Croatia www.inyourpocket.com
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Ivana Kovačić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, John William Bills
Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac, Maja Vidović Sales Kristijan Vukičević, Kristina Štimac, Višnja Arambašić zagreb@inyourpocket.com
Design Moontage, Ivana Mihoković
Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Višnja Arambašić If you have any comments or questions feel free to contact us: zagreb@inyourpocket.com
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Well, another year is in the books. How was your 2022? Where to begin? Whatever the mood, here’s hoping the year ends in beautiful fashion for everyone out there. What do we have on tap for this winter and spring edition of Zagreb In Your Pocket? Everything you need to make the most of our magnificent city, of course. The new year will bring a fresh season of exhibitions, concerts and more, with new restaurants popping up all the time. What’s more, the Sljeme cable car is ready to transport excited visitors to the top of Medvednica; don’t be surprised to see us gawping at the views like everyone else.
What else? We’ve given a little shine to charming Karlovac in this issue, along with a detailed look at delicious štrukli. Admittedly, the thought of that traditional dish has broken our train of thought, so we can only apologise. Croatia moves from the kuna to the Euro on January 1, 2023, becoming the 20th member of the Eurozone in the process. Currency confusion aside, we hope everyone has a brilliant festive period and a magnificent new year; we can’t wait to see what 2023 brings.
Zagreb’s most vibrant art scene page 6
the Culture Zagreb’s most vibrant art scene page 10
Looking for Delicious Food? Let us give you some suggestions page 28 the Most Popular Local Dessert Štrukle or zagorski štruklji page 35 Croatian Craft Beers Lions wolves and bear cubs welcome page 40
The best small places to find the latest looks page 41 Getting Around Maps page 46
Pula-born Gaia radić is the creative brain behind this exhibition, one that takes the narrative of Babylon’s arrogance and transposes it onto modern society, with hugely impactful results.
Zagreb is full of youNg artists aNd taleNted curators. but where exactly is the cuttiNg edge of the city’s coNtemporary art sceNe to be fouNd? iN sharp coNtrast to loNdoN or berliN, Zagreb doesN’t really have a fuNctioNiNg art market; there is oNly a haNdful of private collectors, aNd as a coNsequeNce there are No gallerydealerships iN the city that promote New work. what keeps coNtemporary art goiNg iN Zagreb is the Network of galleries ruN by public-fuNded iNstitutioNs, NoN-profit associatioNs, or by groups of eNthusiastic cultural activists who have baNded together to create their owN sceNe. what follows is aN eNtirely subjective list that have a reputatioN for preseNtiNg art that is curreNt, compelliNg, or head-scratchiNgly straNge. some of them may well be located iN weird corNers of the city; trackiNg the dowN will at least expaNd your urbaN horiZoNs.
Gallery nova nikole tesle 7
Sometimes you need to get away from the big institutional galleries to find out what’s really going on in the art world. Curated by the highly-praised international team WHW (“What, Why and For Whom”; the collective is also responsible for programming exhibitions at Vienna’s prestigious Kunsthalle), the deceptively small and unassuming Galerija Nova has carved out an enviable reputation for presenting contemporary art at its most cutting edge. WHW enjoy a towering reputation in the international arts scene and have access to a wide range of artists. They also have a distinctive approach to their exhibitions, presenting art that asks social and political questions as well as being challenging to eye and ear. Working hours: tue - Fri 12:00 - 20:00. Sat 11:00 - 14:00.
info: Curated by WHW and Pogon Jedinstvo, nOVAci is a call to arms for young curators and improved support. This is utterly vital for the future of curation, so be sure to check out this exhibition (December 13 to January 28, 2023) and all that comes from it in the future.
Gallery HDD (Croatian Design Association)
Berislavićeva 16
One place that occupies a special place in the hearts of the Zagreb creative community is the gallery of the Croatian Design Association
(Hrvatsko dizajnersko društvo), which offers a regular diet of exhibitions covering local designers both past and present. The gallery has relatively little space at its disposal and maybe it is for this reason that the exhibitions here are far more focused than those mounted by the big institutions, and can be easily digested in the space of one visit. And they are usually quite stunning to look at too – anyone in need of visual inspiration would be well advised to fit this one in to their schedule. Working hours: MonFri 12:00 - 19:00 info: Croatian design is always on the move, and this exhibition is the most important professional design event (January 10 to 24 at Lauba Gallery, Prilaz baruna Filipovića 23a), in the country. Everything from graphic design to packaging, electronic media and industry will be celebrated, with educational insights and a sneak peek at the future.
If you’re determined to become a real insider in the Zagreb art world then sooner or later you’ll need to beat a path to Galerija AŽ (short for Atelijeri Žitnjak, or “Žitnjak Studios”), a collection of artists’ studios in an old school in Žitnjak, a suburb on the southeastern periphery of town. As a gallery run for artists by artists it offers direct insights into what Zagreb’s creative crews are up to, and
also exhibits the work of foreign artists brought here on the wings of international exchange. Involving a ride on tram #13 to the end of the line, a visit to the gallery will also provide you with an Odysseus-like perspective on Zagreb’s residential and industrial sprawl. Working hours: Mon–thu 10:00–14:00, 17:00–20:00, Fri 10:00–14:00, 17:00–22:00. Sat 10:00–14:00
info: For the very first time, the fabulous work of renowned Croatian contemporary artist Kata Mijatović gets the exhibition treatment at AŽ Gallery. In many ways, this exhibition tells the tale of the gallery, but be warned; the exhibition only runs from December 9 to 31.
Miroslav kraljević Gallery Šubićeva 29
Fifteen minutes’ walk from the centre in the basement of the INA oil company building, Miroslav Kraljević is definitely one for the art theorists, would-be curators and state-of-culture trend spotters among us. Staging solo and group shows featuring a large than usual number of established international names, it’s probably the one gallery in town that will give you some idea of where contemporary art is actually at. The only drawback is that there are so few exhibitions per year, frequently with large gaps in between each one – so check the programme carefully before heading out. Working hours: Mon - Fri 14:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
90-60-90
trnjanska struga 34 90-60-90 is the organizational umbrella for exhibitions held in Pogon Jedinstvo, a former factory hall (part of which is also occupied by the Močvara club) currently used by various counter-cultural organizations grouped under the Pogon (www.upogoni.org) banner. The factory setting is used to good effect in 90-60-90’s visually stunning exhibitions and installations, frequently involving sound, visuals and other media. Recent years have
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seen some a lot of major artists from Croatia and the neighbouring region setting out their wares on Pogon’s factory floor. Exhibitions here tend to last 2-3 days only, which only adds to their sense of being an event. Working hours: during exhibitions 16:00 - 20:00. info: A celebration of contemporary visual and multimedia artists, Picture From Sound 4 (March 20 to April 2) is a visual exhibition showcasing the magic of sound. Does that sound contradictory? This is art, there are no contradictions. Radio is art in its own way, and this exhibition dives deep into that subject.
ilica 163a
The space belongs to the Zagreb municipal library service and is used as a public reading room for
their collection of newspapers and magazines. Somehow, looking at art on the walls while elderly locals sit at tables leafing their way through the small ads only enhances the experience. The quality of contemporary work here is good, and despite being some way from the centre it is quite near the Lauba Gallery – so a visit to them both can be combined. Working hours: Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.
Savska cesta 25
Hidden in an unassuming hut just behind the sublime French Pavilion in Zagreb’s Student Centre, Galerija SC is one of the cult locations on the Zagreb art scene. It was here that Croatia’s first wave of conceptualist, far-out, preconception-shaking exhibitions and happenings happened in the 60s and 70s. One of
Vlado Martek, In search of meaning(s)the exhibition openings in 1978 was the occasion of Zagreb’s first ever punk rock concert. Not quite as epoch-defining as it used to be, Galerija SC remains one of the most reliable names on the list, with a regular programme of events featuring relevant, frequently younger-generation names. Working hours: Mon - Fri 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.
Located in the heat of the city, Nikola Tesla Street to be exact, this famous gallery was opened in 1968 by renowned Croatian contemporary artists such as Edo Murtić, Frano Imunović, Zlatko Prica, Kosta Angeli Radovani and others. These days, exhibitions from artists that come all over fill the calendar at Forum as well as round tables and discussions which stem interest. Working hours: Mon - Fri 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. info: La Folie - The 18th was a time of contrasts, but the opulence of high-end society was undeniable. That glamour and grotesqueness are showcased in this fabulous exhibition by Zagreb-born Maja Bachler, a series of paintings inspired by the lives of the rich and famous at a time when the aristocracy was on the decline. The exhibition is open until January 21.
kranjčar kaptol 26
The gallery is dedicated to exhibiting art works by Croatian contemporary artists. The beautiful and unique contemporary space only adds to the wonderful ambience and setting of the gallery. Supporting the grass roots and home grown talent! Working hours: Mon - Fri 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.
info: The gallery has an excellent manager Josip Joško Tešija and it is a mere walk to through Dolac. Located at number 8 is the Memorial Apartment of M.J.Zagorka, the first Croatian professional journalist.
ADu Gallery f8
trg republike Hrvatske 8 ADU Gallery f8 is a place for presentation and interaction between the audience and the artist, with the aim of exhibiting primarily through the medium of photography, but also other segments of audio-visual and performing arts taught at the Academy of Dramatic Arts. Working hours: Mon - Fri 12:0019:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
info: Seeking a great pit stop after visiting gallery, then head to Kavana Kavkaz with its super elegant interior that oozes cosiness.
HDLu (Croatian Association of Fine Artists)
trg žrtava fašizma 16 Often overlooked for the very simple reason that it is not adequately promoted, the magnificent modernist rotunda housing the HDLU is probably the best place to start your contemporary arts safari. First of all, it usually has 2-3 exhibitions running at the same time; secondly, the building itself – with its domed central space and endlessly curving walls - makes an ideal backdrop to whatever is on show. HDLU stands for the Croatian Society of Fine Artists – so in a way it’s
their job to mount as wide a range as possible of exhibitions by artists working in all kinds of different areas.Working hours: tue - Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Photography is the key word at Spot with adventurous exhibitons taking place at a national and international level. See the works of up and coming to well-known artists as well as collabortions with other galleries. It is a place to deliberate, reflect, intepret and promote the power of photography in this day and age. Working hours: Mon - Fri 16:00 - 20:00.
A gallery which brings together members from all over Croatia and from all fields of visual arts that have a specific application: theatre and film (set design, costume design, light design), photography, caricature, illustration, comic, animated film, industrial design and dress design, textile creation, graphic design and visual communications. Working hours: Mon - Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.
Zagreb’s reputation as a concert hub continues to grow, and the winter season sees a shedload of excellent gigs hitting the venues of the city. Mimike Orchestra will delight the crowd at Peti Kupe on December 23, while Croatian traditionalists Cinkuši play Klub Močvara on the 30th of the same month. Welsh metal titans Bullet For My Valentine will light up Tvornica Kulture on February 11, while The Mission play Boogaloo on May 9. The concert schedule is filling up, so get those calendars out.
What a life and what a career. Henry Rollins has come a long way from working in an ice cream shop to becoming one of the most respected voices in the international punk scene, whether as the vitriolic frontman of Black Flag or as a captivating speaker, and it is in the latter form that Zagreb gets to enjoy the Washington D.C-
native this February. Rollins brings his Good To See You tour to Tvornica Kulture on February 8 for a captivating evening of brilliant storytelling. QE-3, Tvornica kulture, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 89.
Croatia’s biggest music artist, the great Josipa Lisac will hold on
line concert. Josipa will lead her audience through an amazing catalogue of songs from her 50 year long career. QI -3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11.
Gibonni is one of Croatia’s biggest musical talents: from singing, to songwriting and producing. Born in Split in 1968, Gibonni’s talent pushed his career to take off in the 1980’s with the most popular genre of the time: hard rock. It wasn’t until the fall of Yugoslavia in the 90’s that his solo career began to develop. With nearly 20 solo albums to his name, Gibonni remains one of the most popular musical performers to this day with countless fans at home and abroad.QH -5, Arena Zagreb, Ulica Vice Vukova 8, tel. (+385-1) 642 09 00.
02.04
Damien Rice gigs don’t come around often, so make the most of this opportunity. The Irish icon heads to Kino SC on April 2 for an evening of achingly-beautiful songs, many of which soundtracked our teenage years back in the UK. If you don’t know all the words to the songs on ‘O’, maybe we can’t be friends. There are few more intimate experiences in music than a Damien Rice concert, so circle this date in your calendar already. QB - 4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25, tel. (+3851) 459 35 55.
Passenger fans, the day is almost here. The ‘Let Her Go’ songwriter is an International icon, and he makes his long-awaited debut in Zagreb at Culture Factory on April 11. There is much more to Mike Rosenberg than an international megahit, and this will undoubtedly be one of the highlights of the springtime schedule. QE-3, Tvornica kulture, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 89.
Damien Rice, 2022 - Tour, Photo by Blair Alexander15.03 - 19.03 » festival of lights Zagreb
Let Zagreb light up your life a little with this spring festival of illumination and beauty. See how artists use the city as a painting canvas as its buildings, monuments, promenades and squares shine at night with high tech lights, lasers and graphic effects that create a true spectacle of splashing colours, images and figures. Spring will shimmer in 2023!Qwww. festivalsvjetlazagreb.hr.
ZTB Archives, Photo by Julien Duval
16.11 - 12.03
Featuring over 100 works, oils, watercolours, acrylics, and drawings, Passenger is a retrospective exhibition celebrating the life and works of Irish-born American-based artist Sean Scully. Held at the Museum of Contemporary Art, Passenger showcases the power of abstraction, proving once and for all that art is as much about emotion as it is aesthetics. There is an immense amount of humanity in Scully’s work, making this a deeply impactful exhibition that should not be missed. QJ - 4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00.
damaged the city back in 1880. This exhibition is as educational as it is engaging, with workshops, videos, and lectures adding further understanding to the images and recollections. Earthquakes can happen at any time, so you can never be too prepared. QC-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, tel. (+3851) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr/en/.
13.12 - 28.02 » Nam juNe paik
27.10
Back in 2020, Zagreb was rocked by a catastrophic earthquake that did massive damage to the city, with almost 2,000 buildings rendered practically uninhabitable by the 5.3 magnitude shock. ZG Potres is an exhibition that shines a light on the tragedy within the context of previous earthquakes here, most pertinently the one that badly
22.09
Hunger is a human experience and condition that exists on many levels. Most people experience it every single day, but what is true hunger? In some ways, the development of human society has been defined by responses to hunger. Faces of Hunger is a tremendous exhibition that aims to tackle this massive theme, raising awareness of hunger and providing much-needed education on the subject of eating disorders. To tackle hunger in the future, we must understand hunger throughout history. The exhibition takes place at the Ethnographic Museum and runs until May 2023.QB -3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20.
Ever wondered where the term ‘electronic super highway’ came from? Look no further than Korean American artist and visionary, Nam June Paik. This fabulous exhibition looks at Paik’s life and works, showcasing a genius who wasn’t afraid to push boundaries and helped establish video and new media as art forms to be taken seriously. Video art is everywhere in the 21st century, but it all began with Nam June Paik. Visit this exhibition and be inspired. QJ - 4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00.
13.12 - 12.03 » seal of faith, trace of art - art collectioN of bishop Đura kokša
Great art must always be preserved at all costs. Even during the violence of war, ensuring the survival of creations old and young is of paramount importance, for the present as much as the future. In 1942, a young priest-in-training understood this, and he used his opportunity to leave Croatia to build an art collection of great significance today. The art collection of Bishop Đura Kokša spans five centuries and contains over 700 works, and the centennial celebration of Kokša’s birth sees the collection of this Renaissance man open to the public. Kokša’s collection includes everything from old masters to 20th-century brilliance and is divided into four self-contained units, on show at the excellent Klovićevi Dvori gallery. Kokša’s life and work also get plenty of attention, making this a must-see exhibition. It runs until the beginning of March. QC-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26.
Kokša, Domenico Brandi, Italian landscape with a statue of Hercules
15.01
25.02
A blink-and-you’ll-miss-it exhibition at the Dom hrvatskog inženjerskog saveza (Palača Vranyczany), Berislavićeva 6, Neli Ružić explores the perception and experience of time through a dizzying array of media, including video, audio and more. The building itself is an integral part of the exhibition, so pay close attention to that. Timescape will have you thinking about time differently; in a good way, of course. QDom hrvatskog inženjerskog saveza (Palača Vranyczany), Berislavićeva 6.
23.02
Few Croatian modernists were as influential or significant as Klanjec-born Oton Iveković. Many of Iveković’s most notable works remain the gold standard for historical paintings here, and his landscapes, watercolours, and
genre scenes are as alluring today as when they were created. This retrospective of Iveković’s work is housed at the Klovićevi Dvor Gallery in the capital and will run from the end of February through to the end of May. QC-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+3851) 485 19 26.
Neli Ružić, BeforeAfterNowYou can’t beat an evening at the philharmonic. This is a big time of year for Zagreb’s melodious magicians, and the upcoming Philharmonic Ball (30.12.) is one of the biggest dates on a packed calendar. The ball is a trip back to the days of Viennese-influenced grandeur, with iconic compositions soundtracking an evening of grace and elegance. The concert promises to be as magical as ever, and the pre-concert dancing and socializing in the lobby is every bit as important. What’s more, the concert schedule for the early 2023 season has been announced, and the highlights are plenty. Standout concerts include The Music of the Americas (March 24), the Zagreb Music Biennale on April 21 and A night at the Orient (May 5). There is never a bad time to embrace the magic of music, of course. Qwww.zgf.hr/.
13.04 - 22.04 » music bieNNale
ZagrebThrough many musical genres displayed, the faithful biennial audience will once again have the chance to enjoy the sounds of contemporary music by both the genre’s classics and young upcoming contemporary composers. A dozen spaces in Zagreb will become meeting places for contemporary music - from symphony orchestras, chamber ensembles and contemporary opera to jazz, improvised, electronic and alternative music as well as sound experiments, multimedia installations and contemporary dance.Qwww. mbz.hr/en.
In these places you can always find a good jazz concert in town. Močvara offers Jazz concerts twice a month, be sure to check out their website mocvara.com for exact dates and times, and you can also buy tickets online.
On Wednesdays, the Sax club offers the New Croatian Jazz concert programme and admission is free. kCM in Kranjčevićeva Street offers jazz sessions, so stop by.
In the Zagreb Jazz cycle at the Museum of Contemporary Art on December 7 Vladimir Kostadinović Lefty Beatzz, February 1 Concert for vibraphone and jazz orchestra; March 1 Mediterranean Soul; March 22 Thana Alexa; April 26 Buy the Ticket, Take the Ride; May 17 Stories On a Summer´s Day.
02.12
15.01
A tale as old as a time, Beauty and the Beast is a story that was made for the stage. We all know it by now; a girl (that’ll be Belle) from a provincial town in search of more, a terrifying beast (that’ll be Beast) holed up in a castle, the two on a collision course towards happily ever after. How do they get there? How did the Prince become a Beast? The answers to these questions are out there, but the musical version of Beauty and the Beast is a thrilling experience no matter how often you have heard the story. QC-1, Komedija Theatre, Kaptol 9, tel. (+385-1) 481 32 00.
26.03 - 02.04 » Zagrebdox – iNterNatioNal documeNtary
Craving for new, valiant, bold and off mainstream documentaries, this festival specialises in the best recent national and international docs.The competition program is divided into both an international and regional category featuring documentary films on top of retrospectives, workshops, pitching forums and panel discussions. QC-1, Kaptol Boutique Cinema, Nova Ves 17(Kaptol Centre), tel. (+385-1) 639 67 20, www.zagrebdox.net/en.
KomedijaTheater Archive, Photo by Novaković Firouzeh Khosrovani: Radiograph Of A Family, ZagrebDox Archives
w ith scores of local galleries a N d museums to explore - plus heritage site - here are a few sta N douts for your list.
Karlovac is famous for its four rivers, each one just as lovely as the other. This beautiful modern aquarium is devoted to local freshwater life, enabling us to get to know our fishy friends better and understand more fully just how rich in beauty and biodiversity the Karlovac region is.QBranka Čavlovića Čavleka 1a, Karlovac. Open November 1 - March 31, Open 09:00 - 17:00. April 1 - October 31. April 1 - October 31, Open 09:0019:00. www.aquariumkarlovac.com
The Dubovac Castle is one of the bestpreserved and most beautiful monuments of medieval architecture in Croatia. Built on a prehistoric hill above the river Kupa, it was named after the dubs, the oaks growing on the surrounding slopes. The castle changed hands many times throughout history
and its current appearance is the result of a comprehensive restoration carried out during the mid-twentieth century. Within the castle you will come across a museum and a nice cosy restaurant witha touch of Medieval times.QStari grad Dubovac, Zagrad - Gaj 5, Open 10:00 - 18:00 sati, Closed Mon and holidays.
The mid-Croatian town of Karlovac was on the front line during the Homeland War of 1991-95 and it is fitting that this national museum devoted to the conflict is located here. More precisely, it liesjust off the main road to the Plitvice Lakes in the suburb of Turanj, the place where the main enemy advance was repulsed. The display is housed in an imaginatively renovated nineteenth-century barracks, first built by the Austrians and then pressed into service in 1991 by Karlovac’s Croatian
defenders, who ironically dubbed the place ‘Hotel California’. Encased in a glass shell, the barracks contains a modern multi-media display detailing the military operations that took place here together with an account of what life was like for the local civilian population. Alongside a wealth of military hardware inside the Museum of the Homeland War, Turanj, Karlovac there is a stirring display of artillery pieces, aircraft and armoured cars on the lawn outside.QTuranj 2, Open 8:00 – 18:00, Sat and Sun 10:00 –18:00, closed Mon and holidays. www.mgk.hr
This intriguingly distinctive building was built in 1891 to serve as an exhibition piece for the Zagreb fair. In 1897, the building was taken on by a new owner, Wilhelm Friedrich Katzler, a gardner, who began to utilise the pavilion as a florists, where it overflowed with flowers and plants that attracted romantic passers-by. It also served as a gallery space for the well-known Croatian painter Oskar Herman (from
the Munich circle). Restored, the pavilion still stands proudly, now housing a modest collection of antiques and memorabilia of Karlovac’s past. Step inside and glimpse back in time. Souvenirs in photographs, postcards, paintings and memorial coins can be purchased here.QRadićeva bb, Nov 1 - March 31, Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, closed Sun. April 1 - Oct 3, Open 09:0013:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, closed Sun. www.paviljon-katzler.hr
Impressionisms Routes are present in fourteen of the European countries, including Croatia, bringing together the most renowned locations of the impressionist movement. Get to know Ozalj, the birthplace of Slava raškaj, the most prolific Croatian landscape artist. Enjoy a guided walk from the Town’s bathing area and the Munjara Power Plant to the Castle and the Church of St. Vitus. These are just a few of the places where Slava created her most beautiful impressionist works.
Now we’re talking. The museums of Karlovac have come together with the Zagreb Chocolate Museum to compile the exhibition of our dreams, the sort of celebration that will have sweet teeth worldwide singing. The History of Chocolate will run until the end of February 2023, and you might be surprised at how closely the
history of chocolate mirrors the history of humanity, not to mention the curious beginnings of the stuff. A world without chocolate is unimaginable, nay, unthinkable, and this exhibition showcases the wonderful stuff in all its majesty. The sweetest exhibition ever opened? We’re all for it. QDubovac Castle, Zagrad Gaj ul. 5, Karlovac, tel. (+385-47) 61 59 80. Closed Mon.
Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheat-sheet of sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that you’re cultured.
b a N j osip j elačić s quare ( t rg ba N a j osipa j elačića)
This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.
Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.QC-2, Dolac 9.
Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 5kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB -2, Tomićeva bb, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30-22:00. 0,66€ kn, children up to 7 years free.
l e N uci’s h orseshoe (l e N ucijeva potkova)
A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map
at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: trg republike Hrvatske with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: trg kralja tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.QB/C-3/4. J
Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Limegreen cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting there Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ -1, Aleja Hermanna Bollea 27.
s t m ark’s c hurch (c rkva sv. m arka)
The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-ofarms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo k ljaković.QC-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.
This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith. QC-1, Kamenita ulica.
t he c athedral of a ssumptio N of the b lessed v irgi N m ary (k atedrala m ariji N a uZN ese N ja)
A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Zagreb Cathedral is currently closed due to damage caused by the earthquake which hit the Zagreb area
on 22 March 2020. At the moment you can only view it from the outside.QC-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27.
t he lotrščak t ower a N d g rič ca NN o N (k ula lotrščak i g rički top)
If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion. Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the upper town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well worth the climb.QB/C-2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9, www.gkd.hr/kula-lotrscak/. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 1.32 - 2.65 €. J
Ever wondered what the great big metal ball on Bogovićeva street is? It’s, of course The Sun - a sculpture made by ivan kožarić in 1971. In 2004, Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty sun at the following locations throughout the city: Mercury (Margaretska 3), Venus (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3), Earth (Varšavska 9), Mars (Tkalčićeva 21), Jupiter (Voćarska 71), Saturn (Račićeva 1), Uranus (Siget 9), Neptune (Kozari put),
Pluto (Aleja Bologne - underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006.
Zagreb w elcomes you - m odel c ity
Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, the entire piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the locals.QC-2, Ulica Tome Bakača. J
First things first, the displays in Zagreb’s first-ever Cannabis Museum are absolutely beautiful. Seriously, they might be the most beautiful displays we’ve seen in years. The museum itself is a fantastically fascinating romp through the history of cannabis around the world, with special attention paid to Croatia along the way. Learn how this famous plant is cultivated and the influence it has had on human culture since, well, the beginning of time. Those displays though, are gorgeous. QD -3, Petrinjska 59, tel. +385 95 2 420 420, www.cannabismuseum.hr/. Open 10:00-21:00. (6,62 €). A
co N temporary a rt m useum (m uZ ej suvreme N e umjet N osti)
Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and photography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as well as free wi-fi connection. Except for interactive exhibitions interesting to children that are worth seeing and the children’s corner activities, kids will surely go for the slide (does not work if it is raining). QJ - 4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission (1,99 - 4,65 €). Entry is free every first Wednesday of the month. U
d raže N p etrović m useum (m uZ ej d raže N p etrović)
Croatian sensation Dražen Petrović (1964–1993), nicknamed“basketball’s Mozart”, is Europe’s greatest ever basketball export and is considered to have sparked a wave of European players who went to play in the American NBA. As well as playing for Zagreb’s Cibona club, for Real Madrid and the New Jersey Nets, Dražen was the winner of numerous medals at Olympic, European and World level. He tragically died in a traffic accident but his legacy is
very much alive. This museum displays his medals, awards, personal items, letters and gifts from fans. A guided tour in English is available if you pre-book for a group of 15.Tram line 12,9,3,14,17,4,13. Admission to the museum is free for individual visits on June 7 and October 22.QA- 4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www. drazenpetrovic.net. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. Admission 3,98/1,33€. U
e th N ographic m useum (e t N ografski muZ ej)
High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour. QB -3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr. Open 10:0018:00; Sun 10:00-13:00; closed Mon. Admission 2,65 /3,98€. T U J 6
l auba – t he h ouse for p eople a N d a rt (k uća Z a ljude i umjet N ost l auba)
Known as the House for People and Art, it has a collection of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhibitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and interaction!QH -3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, fax (+385-1) 630 21 42, www.lauba.hr. Open 12:00-21:00. Admission 6,62/3,31€. N T U
m useum of b roke N r elatio N ships (m uZ ej preki N utih ve Z a)
Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the most innovative European Museum.QC-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, www.brokenships.com. Summer (June 1st - September 30th): Every day 09:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Last entry: 9:30 p.m. Winter (October 1st - May 31st): Every day from 10:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Last entry: 8:30 p.m. Admission 6,62/5,29€.
m useum of c hocolate (m uZ ej čokolade)
A sweet little secret in the heart of Zagreb, you can enjoy the Museum of Chocolate with all your senses. At daily workshops,all age groups can enjoy learning the story of chocolate: where it comes from and how it is made. For grown-ups,themed workshops guide you through creating your own chocolately treats and learning to taste chocolate like a connoisseur. There are creative weekend workshops for children workshops, and chocolate summer camps for the luckiest little ones! QVaršavska 5, tel. (+385-1) 209 2966, www.muzejcokolade.hr/. Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. (last entry 19:00) Public holidays: please check opening times on (01) 2092 966. Ticket 8,63/6,64€. Familly tickets 26,54€. Each ticket purchased includes a sample box for chocolate tasting. J
m useum of i llusio N s (m uZ ej iluZ ija)
Test your perception at this amazing and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is about to test your very perception, or is it deception? Best of all, a transformation of the premises has just occurred with stereograms, illusion chairs and a kaleidoscope amongst the new features. Test your skills with amazing visual and sensory challenges open for all ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB-2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09/(+385-) 091 942 20 07, www.muzejiluzija.com/naslovna/. Open 09:00–22:00. Admission 7,96/5,31 €. Family ticket 17,25€ (includes two adults plus two small children). PTJ
Among the quirky Zagreb museums, the Mushroom Museum has one of the most extraordinary collections. With 1600 authentic freeze-dried mushrooms on display, including dozens of newly discovered ones, this Fungi Temple is unique in the world. Why Mushrooms? Well, it is hard to imagine the world without them. They have been here from time immemorial. Without fungi, there would be no wine, beer or antibiotics. Mushrooms today are the superheroes helping us to save the planet. Sustainable materials from mushrooms, such as mycelium, mushroom coffee and food supplements, amazing mushroom shapes and names, and so much more can be found at the Mushroom Museum. Oh, and did you know that the largest living organism on Earth is a mushroom that lives in Oregon? Explore the Museum to find out which one. QC - 2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. +385 98 237 546. Open Wed 13:00-19:00; Fri, Sat 10:0017:00; closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. Admission 2,65€. J
Natio N al m useum of m oder N a rt (NacioN al N i muZ ej moder N e umjet N osti)
The National Museum of Modern Art is one of the richest of its kind in all of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, as well others who work in new media. From the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern art await. QC-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40, www.nmmu.hr. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-14:00; closed Mon. Admission 6,64/5,31€. U
p olice m useum (m uZ ej
The Museum provides an interesting cross section of the development of the Croatian police forces over the past decades, stresses the important role of the police in the Homeland War and showcases a large collection of weapons. Kids will enjoy the collection of police vehicles and equipment. Section of the Museum is dedicated to the father of dactyloscopy, Ivan Vučetić, where visitors will learn all about the fingerprinting technique, and can pose on a chair for the police photograph, popularly known as the mug shot.
k ids Friendly: Very close to the gallery is the Maksimir neighborhood. Make your way through the Maksimir park and find a restaurant called Ježeva kućica.QK-2, Avenija Gojka Šuška 1, tel. (+385-1) 242 65 51/(+385-1) 242 63 18, www.muzej-policije.gov.hr/. Open 10:00-13:00; closed Sat, Sun. Every first Saturday of the month open from 10:00 - 13:00. Free admission.
t ech N ical m useum Nikola t esla ( t eh N ički muZ ej Nikola t esla)
All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propeller-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QA- 4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, fax (+3851-) 484 35 68, www.tmnt. hr. Open 09:00-17:00; Sun, Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Mon. Admission 3.44/ 2.75€. Planetarium admission 2,65€.
t he c roatia N m useum of Naive a rt (h rvatski muZ ej N aiv N e umjet N osti)
Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 39,71€ for every 30 minutes. QC-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, fax (+385-1) 485 21 25, www.hmnu.hr. Open 10:0017:00; closed Sat, Sun. last entrance at 16:30. Admisson 5,29/2,65€ .Free entrance - children up to 15 years. A J
t he c roatia N s ociety of a rtists (hdlu h rvatsko društvo likov N ih umjet N ika) Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name džamija testifies, it was converted to a mosque in
World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QTrg žrtava fašizma 16, tel. (+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, fax (+385-1) 457 68 31, www.hdlu.hr. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 2,65 / 3,97 €. J
t yphlological m useum ( t iflološki muZ ej)
This museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available. QD -3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, fax (+385-1) 483 52 18, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. Open 09:00-16:00; Thu 09:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission 2,65 / 1,99 €. U
Zagreb c ity m useum (m uZ ej grada Zagreba)
With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QC-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61/+385 4851 362, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-14:00; closed Mon. Admission 2,65 / 3,98 €. U J
Pixabay, Robert Marinkovic
Here in Zagreb, we’re at the crossroads of several culinary influences. For centuries, this was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, so it’s natural that the Germanic influence is strongest in cooking as in language (you’ll hear plenty of loan words in the local dialect). However, the paprika-infused cooking of Hungary is not far away, and as road networks improve, the travelling time to and from the coast is ever shorter. Zagreb is an increasingly diverse city, and the new flavours and fresh approaches to cooking have been adopted with enthusiasm by the locals.
But what is the real Zagreb, in culinary terms? Here are a few examples.
Probably the best-known dishes that truly represent Zagreb are purica s mlincima (turkey roast with sheets of baked pasta-like dough that soak up the tasty juices) and štrukli (pasta parcels of soft young cheese boiled and baked in the oven). Then there’s zagrebački odrezak, fried breaded pork stuffed with ham and cheese that, though popular, probably doesn’t quite count as traditional food but is worth trying for the stunningly sized portions.
Something you might find on lunchtime menus is eingemachtes (often corrupted to ajngemachtes in Croatian, or named more correctly ujušak). This is an all-inone meal usually made with chicken meat and offal cooked into a thick and tasty soup with root vegetables and dumplings. Then there’s špek fileki, a hearty stew of tripe cooked with smoked bacon (that’s the špek bit), another lunchtime favourite, especially with the menfolk.
Gwyneth Paltrow would probably raise an eyebrow or two if you served her with gr anadirmaš (or grantirmarš, grenadier): boiled potatoes and pasta mixed with onion and bacon cooked in pork dripping, often served with fried breaded meat. An equally carbohydrate-laden treat is ajnpren juha (or prežgana juha) – a roux of flour or oil and fat cooked with water with an egg added at the end. Not only was this nourishing food during tough economic times, but it is also still reputed to cure a dodgy tummy.
Photo by Višnja ArambašićWith sister restaurants in Dubrovnik and Split, this seafood restaurant is relatively new in Zagreb.The rich seafood menu will make your mouth water and your pockets infinitely lighter. A cute interior consisting of whitewashed ceilings,a rustic interior filled with coastal bric-a-brac emphasis the charm of the seaside. A great many wines to chose.QK-2/3, Kralja Zvonimira 124, tel. (+385-1) 231 67 45, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:0017:00. (10,60 - 66,22 €). A P G B
Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and complemented from a near endless selection of wines. While retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to indulge and enjoy.QC-2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 23 31, www.ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Sun. (9,96 - 23,90 €). A P G B
Just below the Dolac market, it could be said to be the belly of the city. Ficlek in Zagreb means a small piece, which would mean that you should be able to try pieces of traditional Zagreb food here. On the menu you can find ajngemahtec, Zagreb steak, rags with cabbage, stuffed with potato salad, tafelšpic, štrukle, granadirmarš and various side dishes such as mashed potatoes, grinders, bizi rice and so on. QC-2, Pod Zidom 5, tel. (+385-) 099 495 89 09. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. (6,10 - 13,00 €).
If you are after a place that has good home-made cuisine, a relaxed atmosphere and a great surrounding, you will be thrilled with Ježeva kućica (Hedgehog’s House) in Maksimir. Positioned right next to the Maksimir park-forest, this is a great retreat from city’s hustle and bustle as well as trendy restaurants. In a great atmosphere of this cozy new restaurant, one will enjoy the home specialties at affordable prices. Great food and the beauty of the location makes this place truly unique. QK-2, Ul. Fakultetsko dobro 8, tel. (+385-01) 353 52 22, www.jezeva-kucica.hr. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00; closed Mon. (9,95 - 24,54 €).
Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend Didova tava, a traditional veal and vegetables dish prepared in pan. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28.QC-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/ (+385-) 091 484 20 61, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Open 11:00-23:30. (5,97 - 17,25 €). A P G S L
Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC-2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, www.restoran-korcula. hr. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-17:00. (10,61 - 21,22 €).
The spirit of the past is revived through this age old original restored mill, a cultural monument at the preserved farm of Croatian feudal lords on the edge of the Medvednica Nature Park. Now, visitors can eat scrumptious homemade bread baked from milled grain, the exact way it used to be eaten in the 16th century. Old cuisines naturally go best with homemade bread which can be found right herethe authentic antique furniture certainly contributes to the warm and homely atmosphere as well.QJunkovićev put 2b, tel. (+385-1) 346 31 32, www.vstaremmelinu.com. Open 08:00-22:00. (6,36 - 25,85 €) €€. AGTBL
A long-standing favourite with locals who want a reliable city-centre restaurant that’s good for business lunches and quick bites as well as slap-up evenings out and family
celebrations, Vinodol is one of those unavoidable Zagreb culinary landmarks that never lets its reputation slip. Given its big kitchen and many years of experience, Vinodol can churn out just about anything in the Croatian gastronomic repertoire, from grilled fish to roast lamb and pretty much everything in between. Just looking at the menu is akin to embarking on a culinary tour of the country, with trout from the Gacka River, štrukli from the Zagorje, Dalmatian pašticada stew – and of course Zagrebački odrezak, the ubiquitous local schnitzel stuffed with ham and cheese. Outdoor seating in the courtyard is very popular in spring and summer – you may need to reserve. QC-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, www.vinodol-zg.hr. Open 12:00-24:00. (10,61 - 30,49 €) €€€. A P
b istro
Looking for a suave casual dining place where you get value for your plate size, look no further. This Bistro has a great combo of foods on the menu where they pride themselves on the ingredients used. Monthly menus change adding variety to regulars with choices such as steaks, ribs, pastas and soups. A bronzed burger menu and wok dishes are always highly sort.QK- 4, Frana Folnegovića 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76, www.rougemarin.hr. Open 11:0023:00; closed Sun. (7,43 - 23,87 €). A G T B 6 K
Simple and modern restaurant situated in the city center, just a 10 minutes walk from the main square. Pleasantly furnished with handmade items, this family-run restaurant offers seasonally-themed dishes with a modern, good-looking twist. Owner and renowed Croatian chef Anton Hotko strongly recommend smoked meat and fish. Selection of delicious vegetarian and vegan options. Perfect place to enjoy good food, great music, Croatian wine and local beer. Close to public garage Importanne Galleria.QFranje Račkog 11, tel. 098 915 3561, www. restoranhas.business.site/. Open 18:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. S K
Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD -2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 14. Open 12:30-24:00; closed Sun. (9,95 - 19,23 €). A P G B
Run by noted local sommelier Jelena Šimić Valentić this smart, chic but altogether charming wine bar is one of the best places to explore the world of Croatian wine. The arched brick ceiling has been painted white to give the place a geometric pop-art look, and the range of wines
on offer ensure that you can try something affordable as well as quaffing the finest vintages the country has to offer. Settle your stomach with pršut and Pag cheese, alongside delicious crusty bread. QB -2, Frankopanska 1, tel. (+385-) 01/ 4848 568, www.pupitres.hr/. Open 15:0023:00; Sat 17:00-23:00; closed Sun. A P G B H
N av r estaura N t
One of Croatia’s finest chefs has opened the doors to his restaurant where traditional Croatian cuisine is fused with a strong eastern influence. Chef Tvtrko Šakota bases his 16 dishes tasting menu on the freshest of ingredients which keeps things imaginative. Its fine dining with the slow food style where one can really settle and indulge in the creative dishes amidst a great wine selection.QB -2, Masarykova 11, tel. (+385-1) 202 99 61, www.nav-restaurant.com/. Open 18:30-24:00; closed Mon, Sun. (117,97 €). A P J
A warm, cosy and welcoming Michelin-starred restaurant, Noel sits neatly on a corner, hidden among the maze of small streets just north of Home of HDLU. To try and list the kind of dishes available here would take far too much time and space, but then the restaurant knows this all too well and offers diners the option of 6-course vegetarian menu and 6-course chef’s menu so that you can sample as much as possible. QE-2, Dukljaninova 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 42 97/(+385-) 095 5606 640, www.noel. hr. Open 18:00-24:00; closed Sun. (99,41 - 170,33 €). A PGTSJKW
Photo by Višnja ArambašićIt’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top. Duksa’s pizza menu offers about ten original “designs” with tomato sauce (“red pizza”) and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”). Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, for example “Shitake Happens”. Also at Ede Murtića 11 (Bundek Centar) and Tkalčićeva 88.QK-2, Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, www.duksa.hr. Open 08:0023:00. (7,55 - 10,60 €). A
i
The first thing that catches your eye, a very cosy and beautiful interior in the style of the 60s. Not far from the city centre, you can come from the square with tram number 6, get off at the intersection of Držićeva and Šubićeva, and then walk a hundred metres. Pizzas are great, there are many varieties to choose from, ingredients are from top local suppliers. Prices are higher than in other pizzerias. QJ -3, Branimirova 71a, tel. (+385-1) 653 08 84, www.en.frankos.hr. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:0000:00. (5,97 - 23,87 €). A B S V
This second opened location has quickly caught the city’s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant layout has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at I-3 Badalićeva 18, (+385-1) 366 70 44.QD -2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16, www.pizzeria-karijola.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (7,30 - 11,94 €). A G B S
The whimsical interior of this tiny trattoria returns pizzafor-two to the realm of romantic evening options. Whether in the cozy loft or at their family-friendly main floor tables, groups of all sizes enjoy their solid menu of Italian and
Mediterranean delights. This long-standing local favorite is often packed so make a reservation for a guaranteed great dining experience.QE-3, Švearova 9, tel. (+385-1) 461 77 77. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Sun. (4,11 - 19,20 €).
c urry b owl
So two brothers whilst travelling across Europe happen to fall in love with Zagreb and decide to introduce the best Sri Lankan meals to this wonderful city. And that’s the inception of ‘Curry Bowl’, a place of rich and intense flavours, exotic spicy herbs, all combined with organic vegetables and meats from the famous local market Dolac. Head to the vibrant Tkalčićeva Street for some kotthu, devilled dishes or ‘curry in a hurry’! QC-1, Tkalčićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 557 91 75, www.srilankancurrybowl.com. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00. (7,70 - 10,49 €).
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While taking a look at the architecturally impressive Islamic Cultural Center, step just around the corner and grab a bite at the restaurant that’s part of the complex. There’s a large, airy patio with plenty of outdoor seating that overlooks gardens and greenhouses and offers a peak at the Medvednica mountain, plus another spacious dining room inside. The menu is full of Croatian favorites like ćevapčići and burek and other Balkan specialties.QK- 4, Prilaz Safet Bega Bašagića 1, tel. (+385-1) 613 17 76/(+385-1) 613 71 62, www.restoranislamskicentar.com.hr/. Open 08:00-23:00. (2,6547,68 €).
If you want to get out of the city centre, one possibility is Izakaya on Selska cesta. This restaurant is known for its good food, interesting interpretation of Japanese cuisine and great cocktails. Desserts are definitely worth a try.QSelska 90b, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 60, www.izakaya.hr. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00; closed Sun. (6,63 - 23,87 €). ASVK
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You might not normally associate Zagreb with Japanese cuisine, but over the last 5 years the Croatian capital has seen an impressive influx of high quality sushi. Tekka is one of the most recent additions, a bustling venue with an equally eager staff. A full menu is available, as well as several Japanese beers.QJ -3, Radnička cesta 37 b, tel. (+385-1) 638 93 98, www.tekka.hr. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Sun. (13,93 - 63,67 €).
kai s treet f ood b ar
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It shouldn’t come as a great surprise, but we’re all about the street food revolution that is sweeping across the planet. Zagreb is more than holding its own on the delicious front, and Kai Street Food is right at the forefront of the battle, serving up fusion street food from an everchanging menu that is never less than delicious. Throw in excellent service and charming decor and you’ve got yourself a lunchtime option per excellence. QC-2, Jurišićeva 2a. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Mon, Sun. (9,29 - 10,61 €).
In the centre of the city there is a small Indian bistro with dishes that lean on the South Indian tradition. A good atmosphere with helpful waiters, and a good selection of various dishes that you can share are a great choice for lunch. The food is delicious, not too spicy. A couple of Croatian wines are also offered, and there is a special menu for cocktails.QC-2, Preradovićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 3375 358, www.namaste-bistro.com/dobrodoli. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. kitchen is closed 15:0017:00. (9,28 - 12,59 €).
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A welcome addition to the city centre’s fast food outlets, Khaos Thai is neatly placed right behind the Galleria Business Centre on Vlaška, at Trg Drage Iblera 10. You’ll be hard pressed to find fault with anything here. Great value for money, fantastic flavour and taste across the entire menu, and some of the friendliest staff there is. If you’re searching for your new go-to place, just try their green curry and you’ll know you’ve found it! Also at Crvenog križa 31. QD -2, Trg Drage Iblera 10. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. (7,95 - 8,75 €) €. S J
Friendly service, fantastic food, great drinks. What else is there to say? Oh, a beautiful atmosphere too, don’t forget that. Soi Fusion is small but perfectly formed, serving up a variety of East Asian-inspired street food dishes that don’t skimp on portion size and are a delight from the first bite to last. Soi Fusion is found in one of the many alleyways that dot Ilica in the centre of town. QB -2, Ilica 50, tel. +385 91 916 2101, www.soifusion.hr/. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. kitchen closes at 21:30. (6,89 - 11,80 €) €€. K
Having blazed a trail for Japanese food in Zagreb and carved an enviable niche for creative Asian-European fusion, Takenoko remains the place to go for fine dining with far-eastern flair. Their move from the upper reaches of Tkalčićeva to new premises in the heart of town has if anything confirmed their preeminence. The deftly designed interior of dark greys and greens oozes class; while there’s a superb range of sushi and a well-balanced choice of globally-inspired mains. Among the desserts, the green tea ice cream is worth singling out.QB-2, Masarykova 22, tel. (+385-1) 646 33 85, www.takenoko.hr. Open 12:0001:00; closed Sun. kitchen closes at 23:00. (10,61 - 39,77 €).
A PGW Photo by Višnja Arambašićt orikaya
Ramen lovers, you are in for a treat. Torikaya is a fantastic addition to Zagreb’s growing list of Japanese restaurants, although there is more to this city centre spot than delicious noodles. The menu flirts with various other Asian cuisines, while the atmosphere is the dictionary definition of laid-back and relaxed. Be sure to dip into the small but perfectly formed cocktail menu, with plenty of Japanese flourishes waiting to be enjoyed. Brilliant stuff. QC - 2, Petrinjska 2, tel. +385 99 3690145, www.torikaya. hr/hr. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. (7.96 - 14.60 €). S
t ori s treet f ood Asian street food fans and fanatics have now got their new favorite place. Tori street food restaurant has recently opened its doors in the western part of Zagreb, the area of Špansko, which is becoming increasingly popular with new trendy places for good food and great fun. Tori street food is the latest contribution to the list. The chef Vid Nikolić prepares the mouthwatering Asian dishes that will make you want to return for more. QTrg Ivana Kukuljevića 5, tel. (+385-) 099 380 26 57, www. toristreetfood.com/. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Sun. (5595kn)/(7,29 - 12,59 €). S V
Taking inspiration from the bewitching stories of Marija Jurić Zagorka, Br00m44 is a darling little cafe that serves espressos in picturesque cups and breakfast bites for the hungry. An indemand location next to the central market adds to the experience, although everything does centre on the quality of the coffees and the freshness of the squeezed juices. Pick up a Zagorka tale to read while here, for the full experience. QC-2, Dolac 8, tel. (+385) 095 907 40 47, www.br00m44.com/. Open 06:30-15:00; Sun 08:00-14:00. J
Looking for some excellent gluten-free bread in Zagreb? Katin Kruh is the place to go. Not only do you get that unmistakable aroma as soon as you enter, but the bread itself is also among the best in town, soft and fluffy yet crisp and confident at the same time. Is it possible for bread to be confident? We’re not sure, but we’re sticking with the analogy. You can find Kata Brunch Bar br.2, 100% GLUTEN FREE on Martićeva ul. 15.QPetrinjska 29, tel. +385 (0) 91 614 3412, www.kruhbezglutena.hr. Open 07:30-20:00; Sat 08:00-16:00; closed Sun. A
Korica isn’t exactly at the heart of it all, situated all the way down Preradovićeva, but it’s a great place to take the kids (or yourself) if the need arises. Korica’s baked goods are all prepared on site and are a step above your usual offering around the capital. The almond croissants can be especially recommended. It’s worth noting that weekend lunch hours will be busy, so a table is not guaranteed. Also at Martićeva street and Deželićeva 36.QC-3, Preradovićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 623 19 95, www.korica.hr. Open 07:00-19:00; Sat 08:00-15:00; closed Sun. Delivery 08:15-18:00. PGTSJ
The world needs more excellent brunch places, right? Verde gets it right in Zagreb, serving up a fabulous mix of dishes combining the best parts of breakfast and lunch, with good coffee and handmade cookies to boot. To find it, simply keep walking down Martičeva until you see all the people enjoying their brunch. QMartićeva 63, tel. (+385-01) 551 43 24, www. verde.hr/. Open 07:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-16:00. €€€.
Perhaps oddly located in one sense, but perfectly in another, Botaničar is a mix of art gallery, café, culture venue, situated only a few minutes from the Botanical Garden. This part of the city seems to attract ‘underground’ venues, and it’s easy to see why. Here you will find book launches, poetry nights and, more importantly, somewhere peaceful to enjoy your tea or coffee.QB -3, Trg Marka Marulića 6. Open 08:00-23:00; Sat 09:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-19:00.
You can’t get enough of a good thing, so we’re all sorts of happy to give as much time to Program Bar’s second setting as possible. The aesthetic staples at the Petrova location tick all the boxes, as do the coffee, cakes and comfort levels. The place is entirely non-smoking and the decor is just about as elegant as you’re going to get, giving ordinary conversations a lofty feel that you’ll want to live in forever. QE -1, Petrova 21, tel. 098 993 8279. Open 07:00-23:00; Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun 09:0023:00. G B
Neatly nestled just off the street, Finjak finds itself alongside a number of like-minded businesses. This delightful step-back-in-time antique-filled cafe has a very nice selection of high quality teas, as well as the usual coffee fare you’d expect. Heineken and San Servolo can be found here. Indoors is non-smoking but there is an outdoor terrace.QE -2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-) 098 130 0057. Open 09:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-17:00.
What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which have been decorated exquisitely without being too over the top. Moreover, one can also enjoy a glass of wine whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock tinkle in the background.QB -2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385) 95 511 88 44/(+385-) 095 511 88 44, www.juta-kota-bar.business.site/. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri 07:00-02:00; Sat 09:00-02:00; closed Sun. P B J
Brass and copper tones is the best way to start with a description of this cafe, oh and a piano sitting in the middle of it all. Their Instagram account will give you a better idea. If you’ve not seen it in passing, chances are someone’s told you all about it already. Hidden away on Rapska, Kavana Corso has a 1950s / steampunky feel. Certainly worth the visit if you’re eager to try somewhere new.QJ -3, Rapska 35, tel. (+385-1) 484 01 93. Open 06:00-24:00.
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If you’re going to reopen a once-regular fixture on the theatre circuit, you might as well do it in style. Kavkaz is quickly drawing people back towards Kazalište Trg, serving not just your regular fare of coffee, wine and rakija, but presenting a decent food menu as well. Breakfast, lunch, a quick bite. Take your pick. The architecture is beautiful, and during these winter months it’ll provide a wonderful background to Advent selfies. QB -3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-1) 615 48 68, www.kavkaz.hr. Open 08:00-23:00.
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Coffee for people who take coffee seriously but want to have a good time when drinking it. Speciality coffee is the name of the game of Kavantura, where the beans are crisp and the atmosphere is good, all enjoyed in a cafe with a playlist curated by the customers. Kavantura also serves excellent craft beers, juices, teas and more for those who have had enough coffee, and the seriously enthusiastic can take beans home for personal use. QHorvaćanska 23a, tel. (+385 - 1) 237 19 80, www.kavantura.com/. Open 08:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-23:00. B V 6
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Situated on Ilirski trg, this is ideally placed to act as starting point, or finishing point, for those eager to explore the area outside the old walls of Zagreb. Around the corner you’ll find a path leading onto Dubravkin put, which in turn takes you up a beautiful walk to the woods at the back of Ksaverska. If you’re ending here, you’ll be happy to know that you’ll get your croissants or krafne on top of your tea and coffee. Comfy seats, great music policy, and an even better selection of beer.QC-1, Ilirski trg 1, tel. (+385) 99 605 3882. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 09:0023:00. N PBJ
Always nice to sit on a heated terrace, during the morning rather than at night, and watch life go by. Pleased to note that Pif is still one of the fastest cafes around the area to have their outdoor seating ready for customers, even during the cold weather. Great mint tea available here, which is always nice. Staff are prompt and friendly, and inside is well ventilated should you be a non-smoker, and unable to find space on the terrace. Plenty of local and craft beers, and open late.QC-2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 560 16 91. Open 07:30-01:00; Sun 10:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 07:30-02:00. PBJ
This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way. Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area. QB -2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, www. velvet.hr/. Open 08:00-22:00. A P G T B
A visit to Zagreb and Northern Croatia, without trying štrukli, a mouthwatering regional specialty, would be a huge mistake. Many famous people, including Queen Elizabeth, American president, Jimmy Carter, and Tina Turner could not remain indifferent to this popular traditional dish that is served in households and restaurants across the Croatia’s north.
Štrukli (pronounced: shtrooklee) are prepared with freshly made dough with a cottage cheese filling, and they can be either baked or cooked/boiled. The recipe originated in the villages of Hrvatsko Zagorje, a region to the north, that takes pride in its fairy-tale castles amidst the picturesque rolling hills. In Zagorje most homesteads and restaurants prepare traditional local dishes among which štrukli has become a trademark of the continental Croatian gastronomy. In former times, štrukli was served daily in the Zagorje villages. Most families in those days were poor and meat was eaten only on rare occasions. Štrukli, with its simple combination of several basic ingredients that all housewives of Zagorje had in their pantries – eggs, cottage cheese, sour cream, and flour, was a logical choice for daily sustenance. It was an easy dish to prepare for their large families to give them enough strength for the daily chores and farming work. But how are the štrukli made? The first step is to knead the dough. The pastry is then rolled out flat and very thinly to cover the tabletop. Then, a mixture of cottage cheese with the addition of eggs, sour cream and salt is spread thinly over the pastry. The pastry is rolled lengthwise from both sides into two joined rolls, and finally cut in 20 cm long pieces. For baked štrukli , the pieces are placed into a baking tray, generously covered with clotted cream, and baked for roughly 45 minutes, until slightly brown on top. For cooked/boiled štrukli , the pieces are placed into a pot of boiling water and cooked for approximately 20 minutes, then drained. This version tastes wonderful with a sprinkling of crunchy fried breadcrumbs on top.
What is fascinating about this dish is that it can be served in a soup, as an entrée, a main course, an individual light course or dessert. Here we come to another interesting detail - štrukli can either be savory or sweet. Different places serve different versions of štrukli so you might come across štrukli with the addition of apples, poppy, truffles, pumpkin, blueberries, smoked paprika and the like. However, classical štrukli with cheese, cream, and eggs, can be found in almost every restaurant that serves this signature dish of Northern Croatia. Not only restaurants serve them, as you will find štrukli in most bakeries these days. If you have access to a kitchen, you can make them yourself. Tasty frozen štrukli, prepared by different Croatian producers, with simple instructions on how to cook them, can be found in many shops and supermarkets.
Due to its authenticity, in 2007 this regional dish, Zagorje štrukli was inducted into the list of Croatia’s intangible cultural heritage, by the Croatian Ministry of Culture.
If you happen to be in Zagorje in July, then visiting Štruklijada, which is an annual event and competition in the preparation of this tasty local dish, is a must. The first Štruklijada organized in 2009, with the purpose of promoting and preserving this unique Zagorje recipe, has been attracting an increasing number of visitors ever since. This annual event would be the perfect place to sample the absolute best, regional štrukli and to congratulate the winning team.
Flour, water, cottage cheese, cream, eggs, and a little oil. This is all you need to make the perfect štrukli. So simple, yet so delicious!
The section of Vlaška closest to the city centre is home to a wonderful grouping of shops, Meet Mia – a breakfast and brunch restaurant - being among them. Here you can get everything from tea and coffee to grilled sandwiches and dessert. Pick up something sweet to take away, or perhaps give them a call if you need something special made…QD -2, Vlaška 43, tel. (+385-1) 468 38 23/+385 91 4455122. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. N BS
M&M is a small family-run patisserie located in Rudeš, a western suburb of Zagreb. Here you will find cakes and cookies, all made to traditional recipes and using modern ingredients. The selection is impressive, and includes Samobor’s famous cream cake, the kremšnita. In fact, there are cakes from all parts of the country, most notably the White Zagreb Cake. There are vegan and gluten-free options. Ice cream too. And, if sweet is not to your liking then you’ll find plenty of salty and savoury to suit your needs. QG -3, Ratarska 13, tel. (+385-1) 386 16 30, www. mim.hr. Open 07:00-21:00; closed Mon. P G B
There are people we know who practically orgasm when they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe. Also at Petrinjska 2 (C-2).QJ -2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23, www.slasticarnica-orijent.hr/. Open 08:30-21:00; closed Sun. N P G
t he cookie factory
Cookies and cream is a well-known flavour in the ice cream and biscuit world, and it’s making its mark on Zagreb too. At The Cookie Factory you’ll find not only a massive range of pies and cakes, but biscuits and ‘Mrvice’ too. If you don’t have time to sit and relax, you can always place an order and have something delivered! That’s the cookies side of things. You might also notice quite an array of face creams, bath bombs, hair products, masks... the list continues. Fully Croatian, fully natural. All the best there is for your personal care. And thus, the cream. A great spot to take a break during shopping, and a great spot to shop at while you take a break. Also at Nemčićeva 8 (J-3).QC-1, Tkalčićeva 21, tel. +385 91 276 0016/+385 91 276 0045, www.cookiefactory. hr/. Open 09:00-23:00. A P G BJ
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Located just beneath the Zagreb funicular, see an entire new approach to cakes and pastries which are all made gluten free! Only nutritious healthy ingredients are used including stevia, rice or soy milk, flax seed, olive oil, cranberries, carrots, almonds, cashews, fruits and more. Digest it all with 100% Arabica coffee, organic ice cream, revolution teas, or healthy fruit juices. Get a terrace seat and remember, ‘health is wealth’.QB-2, Tomićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 15 51, www.vincek.com.hr. Open 09:0021:30; closed Sun. N PTBSJ
Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI - 4, Savska 150, tel. (+385) 99 848 56 63, www. bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 08:0003:00; Sun 10:00-24:00. N
b obi i r udi p iv N ica
Bobi and Rudi isn’t exactly in the centre of Zagreb, but the energy and excitement of this Pivnica are well worth the trip. The beer list is every bit the equal of anywhere in the centre of town and the atmosphere trumps most places, with a vibrant buzz from open to close. Cross the river and head to the Zapruđe neighbourhood for good times and better beer. QJ - 5, Trg Ivana Meštrovića 1c, tel. (+385-) 091 573 72 69. Open 08:00-24:00. B
From the ashes of Jabuka has Dva Osam risen. Punters have been making the pilgrimage to Jabukovac 28 for entertainment and energetic nights in equal measure, and Dva Osam is more than happy to keep that torch alight with a packed schedule of live music and other events. A one-stop shop for culture of all shapes and sizes, Dva Osam is also a pretty fun spot to dance the night away and get sweaty with friends and drinks in equal measure. Q1 - B, Jabukovac 28, www.dvaosam.com/. Open Mon, Tue, Wed 17:00-00:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00-04:00; Sun 17:00-00:00. E
Tucked away just off of one of Zagreb’s most famous streets, Tkalčićeva, Grof Melin functions as a café by day and club by night offering live jazz performances on Friday and Saturday evenings. Decorated in a retro-chic style with old fashioned TV sets used as makeshift tables, the cozy outdoor patio is surrounded by trees and greenery and adorned with oldtime radios. Take a seat at one of the mismatched, but stylish colourful chairs and tables and enjoy a drink in this artsy atmosphere.QC-1, Kožarska 19, tel. (+385) 91 488 8853. Open 11:00-02:00; closed Mon. A TBEJ6
At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.”QI- 4, Ulica hrvatske bratske zajednice 4, www.hardplace.hr. Open 09:00-01:00; Fri 09:00-04:00; Sat 10:00-04:00; closed Sun. N PBE
Hub Cooltura Pub might be considered ‘normal’ or it might be considered ‘different’. It looks like you’d expect a café or
pub to look like… a combination of rustic, local styles, and it looks radically different at the same time, integrating more industrial motifs and imagery. Think a mix of steampunk and Doctor Who. All in all it’s relaxing, and welcoming. The interior is handmade, original design, and the space is dominated by retro armchairs, creatively used beer bottles, old-fashioned kilns, and even tractor crates. If you think this type of different is your thing, then you must try this place at least once. If it’s not giving away too many secrets, the In Your Pocket offices are a mere quarter hour jaunt away, and you’re not at all that far from the main bus station. The nearest tram stop north of the pub is Olibska, the 2, 3, and 13 use this line, while you’ve also access via the 6, 7 and 8 lines to the southwest. That’s nearly half of all trams in Zagreb! The universe is telling you something!QK-3/4, Rapska 20, tel. (+385-) 091 519 37 36. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 07:00-24:00. A GUB6
On the cutting edge of all things cool, KSET has gained a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz, rock and punk concerts as well as DJ performances and theatre plays. Club run strictly by students is known for its cultural impact, chill atmosphere and urban interior.QB - 4, Unska 3, www.kset.org/. Open 09:00–16:0020:00–00:00; Fri 09:00-16:00, 20:00-01:00; Sat 22:00–03:00; closed Sun. Open hours can depend on events. N G B E 6
l a N dsky b ar Near the Zagreb tram depot at Ljubljanica, cocktail fans will find their favourite pilgrimage site. Apart from its unique design and some of the best cocktails in town, the name itself holds an interesting story. Paula Landsky was the first Croatian ticket inspector on trams who got hired during the First
UnsplashWorld War. Landsky bar is paying tribute to this exceptional lady who worked 12 hours a day, raised 8 children and lived to be 101. As you probably guess, the main design theme of the bar is the tram and the colour that prevails is blue –symbolizing Zagreb trams. QOzaljska 164, tel. (+385) 97 683 40 16/+358 1 6146 252, www.landskybar.com/. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 08:00-24:00. B E
This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also some-thing of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week-film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip decor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. The club’s bar is open from 17:00 to 24:00 every day, in addition to organized concerts, exhibitions, panels and special events, which you can track on their Facebook page. The club’s bar is open from 17 to 24 every day, in addition to special events.QI-3, Trnjanski nasip 1 -3, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, www.mochvara.hr. Open 17:00–23:59; Wed 17:00–23:00; Fri 17:00–05:00; closed Mon, Sun. Open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web or Facebook page. N PGUBEL6
An established steampunk venue, Mr. Fogg is spacious and continues to grow in popularity. Exposed brickwork, dials and gauges abound, and unusual metal sculptures everywhere. If you’re the sort of café-goer who loves taking photos of your surrounds, then you must set aside an afternoon or night and make a trip to Martićeva. When you do get here you’ll see a wide range of spirits, several of which are unique to Mr. Fogg. These are used to tweak var-
ious cocktails so as to mirror the journeys of Phileas Fogg himself. There’s also a list of bespoke cocktails, with the barstaff only too happy to help you in designing one all for you! QE-2, Martićeva 31, tel. +385 95 317 9646. Open 07:00-24:00; Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 08:00-02:00. B J
The world needs more cultural clubs, right? Right. Peti Kupe has been a magnificent addition to Zagreb’s creative scene, serving up a steady stream of live music and DJs in a most intriguing setting. Smack bang in the city centre (by the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall and main train station), Peti Kupe (The Fifth Couple, if you were wondering) has a packed schedule and all the energy needed for a great night out. Keep an eye on the social media pages for upcoming events. QD - 4, Trnjanska cesta 5, www.linktr. ee/petikupe. Open 08:00-05:00; closed Sun. E
Covering three floors, the concept successfully melds music with cutting-edge design and the latest-and-greatest from the alternative world of street art, into one multifunctional space. Visit the cafe bar on the ground floor to chill out on vintage couches while sipping a local craft beer in a collective living room-like atmosphere inspired by New York City from the 1930’s. Go upstairs to the record store, listen to your favourite music and come away with a rare vinyl record, or step into the basement in the evening to check out the nightclub (the program starts in October) and temporary art gallery. Pločnik is a collective lifestyle concept that’s definitely not to be missed.QH -3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-) 091 430 07 33/+385 1 4107 725, www.pozitivanritam.hr/plocnik. Open 11:0024:00; Wed 17:00–02:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00–02:00; Sun 15:00–00:00. closed in July and August. A BE6
This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss.QD -3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, www.sax-zg.hr. Open 20:00-04:00. N G E
This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to winddown. And best of all, you don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI-4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385) 1 4819 375/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-04:00. PTBE6
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the Garden Brewery: Any regular visitor to the coast might be familiar with the Garden Festival at Tisno. Garden’s cultural empire continues to expand, and they’re doing it in style. While the brewery has a small range of regular beers, they actually produce a phenomenal number of “limited” beers each year, bringing back those that are well received, as you do. It would be impossible to recommend just one, but we’ll bow to the expertise of the staff at Spicy Days, the Zagorska beer shop and taproom where you’ll find all of this: Imperial Raspberry & Coconut Stout.
https://thegarden.hr/
nova runda: C4 American IPA is perhaps one of Nova Runda’s most powerful options, available naturally anywhere that sells craft
beers. However, at time of print we are aware that they are excited about an upcoming release, so feel that it’s not unfair to perhaps mention that also: Hazy Refreshing Monster. If in Zagreb you’ll find Nova Runda’s beers on tap at X-Bar, which is on Nova Cesta, just opposite Trešnjevska market. X marks the spot!
https://novarunda.com/
Grif: Okay, some might object to Grif being on this list, since technically they’re an arm of Zagrebačka pivovara, but the parent company of Zagrebačka, Molson Coors knows a thing or two about quality craft microbreweries. Here it’s all too easy to recommend their Vanilla Oak Bourbon Porter. Only available on tap, you’ll need to make the trip to the western side of Ilica, to
the brewery itself to get this, but while there you can also grab a bite to eat at their restaurant.
https://www.kpivovari.hr/grif/
Crafter’s: You might have seen Crafter’s a bit more in recent months, following their more-thansuccessful collaboration with Brkovi, but while their lager has indeed proven popular, it’s another beverage that gets the recommendation here. Crafter’s Paradigm range is for their specialist beers, and #5 is a Russian Imperial Stout. Previously available on tap at Cherry Tree, over by Selska, it’s now available there in large 750ml bottle!
https://www.crafters.hr/
Mlinarica: The “best kept secret” trope is way too overused, and we’re perhaps guilty of that in these pages sometimes. However, Mlinarica is a microbrewery with attached restaurant and while you can get their beers in some shops, if you want it on tap then you need to take the trip up Ksaverska. Here, we tip one of their regular beers, Black Widow. Plan a day around a visit here, as there are some amazing walks in the area, with Cmrok being just west, if you can find the “secret paths”.
mlinarica.hr/pivovara-mlinarica/
Bruman: To Istria next, home to so many great wines, and perhaps some great beers too. No debate, and their Red Ho is chosen here. Red beers are surprising rare by comparison, and some commercial efforts in years past by bigger companies haven’t quite hit the mark. Bruman’s webshop is always worth a visit also, since they sell tshirts with their branding and beer designs on full display.
https://bruman.hr/
g e N tle a N d se N sitive, she tells us a story with each piece of her ceramics. t hese exude artistic se N sibility, a N d u N usual, somewhat abstract forms. a N ature lover who tra N sfers these p reserved m ome N ts to clay, i.e. to textures, shapes, colours a N d eve N sce N ts. Nataša was bor N i N š ibe N ik, a N d you ca N feel the e N ergy of the sea i N every piece. you ca N follow Natasha at atelier N atasa N i N ic. com or while walki N g arou N d Zagreb, stop by s electedd co N cept desig N store ( r atkajev prola Z 10) or t voje ( martićeva 14f ) a N d look for the works of artist Nataša Ni N ić.
Over the last decade, Arena Centar has been a mandatory shopping and entertainment destination for the whole family. With more than 200 stores, Arena Centar is the dominant fashion and beauty center in Zagreb and beyond, as well as the best entertainment center. Top brands, cafes with outdoor terraces and restaurants with a wide selection of fast, local and exotic cuisine are the reasons why visitors repeatedly choose Arena Centar QH-5, Ulica Vice Vukova 6, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, www. arenacentar.hr/en/. Open 09:00-21:00.
The Bashota goldsmith family has been creating remarkable jewelry since 1924. Along with hard work, knowledge, skill, design originality and a wide range of unique models,they are able to satisfy every wish. The offer includes graceful coral jewellery, traditional items such as Licitar hearts, as well as many other symbols of Zagreb and Croatian history. Bashota is a proud holder of the Croatian Creation quality label and multiple first places at the Triennial of Zagorje Souvenirs – dedicated to souvenirs based on the protected intangible heritage of Zagorje County. QB-2, Ilica 37, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 23, www.zlatarnicabashota.hr/. Open 08:30-13:00, 16:00-20:00; Sat 09:0014:00; closed Sun. A
This is a unique butcher shop. Everything can be purchased in pre-portioned and vacuum-sealed packages. The concept began a few years ago at their first location, where they were the first in Croatia to specialize only in premiumquality aged and fermented beef. Now in a bigger and more luxurious space with an expanded offer, there’s not a cut nor a variety of beef that you can’t find there. Whether it’s Black Angus Rib eye from the USA, Austrian Simmental, or marbled Wagyu beef from Japan: they have it. QH - 5, Riječka ul. 10, tel. (+385-) 095 198 80 01, www.beefshop. hr. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-13:00.
Bookara is a neighborhood bookstore and sells quality fiction, science fiction, comics, popular science, philosophy, top journalism. They also offer a board game program, and nurture an individualized approach and are interested in what their customers want to read.QMaksimirska 39, tel. +385 91 510 8634, www.bookara.hr/. Open 12:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-21:00; closed Sun. A
This is a boutique wine store in town and it’s run by a team that will tell you the A-Z of the fine grape drop. Its owners have reinvigorated this immaculate wine bar located just above the Zagreb Cathedral, in a 19th century basement. Over 300 wines are available from small family owned wineries to the more prestige sorts.QC-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 23 61, www.bornstein.hr. Open 10:0020:00; closed Sun. A
f raktura ( b ookshop i N Zagreb)
The Fraktura bookshop was opened in 2020 by the successful family-owned Fraktura publishing house as a place where literature and reading to be nurtured by people with a true love for the written word, and as a place where such people can meet, chat and find inspiration for the best titles to read, both from new talent and established names. The interior design is wonderfully creative and calming, making this a truly inviting home for book-lovers. Q Ulica kneza Mislava 17, tel. +385 1 335 78 63/+385 1 581 4624, www. fraktura.hr/. Open 09:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A J
We do love a second-hand shop, even more so if it happens to be pet-friendly, and that is exactly what we find at Industrija on Vlaška. Well, more accurately you should come here to the excellent selection of clothing and fashion accessories, with both eyes firmly fixed on sustainable fashion. Pick out your summer styles and then see if the pet approves. Here’s hoping!QE-2, Vlaška 46. Open 11:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. A
A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and stuffed animals.QD-3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57 73, www.jasminakosanovic.com. Open 12:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. N
Did you grow up with a vinyl record in your hand? Remember those good old days, when all music was on vinyl? If so, then this store will revive some memories, as it is fully stocked with a lot of records (second hand, most of them original pressings) with many rarities that are hard to find anymore. Definitely worth a peek, with lots of music genres covered. Q H - 3, Podgorska 3, tel. (+385-1) 363 36 85/+385 99 881 4017, www. karmavinil.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun.
Looking for a piece of jewelry that’s truly one-of-a-kind and fits your unique individualized style? Then look no further because Lapidarium offers the perfect solution to
your search. Not only do they supply finished jewelry, but they also allow customers to create their own customized pieces for every type of occasion, whether a special event, like a wedding, or for a simple casual night spent out on the town. These original adornments are a unique brand in Croatia and were created by local and international designers that used modern and innovative ideas to make the jewelry. Their use of various shapes and engravings, with precious stones and gems, result in a cutting-edge, yet sophisticated design.QC-2, Radićeva 10, tel. (+3851) 553 06 49, www.lapidarium.eu. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. AJ
Lutak is a little cottage industry making handmade toys. It may not be the most shiny and modern,tucked away in the backstreets as it is, buthere you’ll find such endearing characters to capture your children’s imagination. If you’d like to support a local small business this is a great place to find utterly charming gifts for little ones. QJ - 3, Tuškanova 34, tel. (+385-0) 91 892 6084. Open 10:00-13:00, 18:00-20:00; closed Sun. You can always call for an appointment.
A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or souvenirs at sensible prices. Items made to order.QB-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385- ) 091 112 23 52, www.etnobutik-mara.com. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:30; closed Sun. A
Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938, these contemporary and unique pieces were created by goldsmith, Renato Medaković.QC-2, Frane Petrića 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385) 98 182 64 70, www.zlatarnamedakovic.hr/. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-13:00; closed Sun. N
In the heart of Zagreb’s design district, on the corner of Martićeva and Bauerova you’ll find a little shop owned by Nataša Mihaljčišin, one of the two designers behind renowned Croatian fashion label i-gle, which is sadly no more. Nataša definitely designs the most beautiful and creative knitwear in Zagreb. QE - 2, Ul. Antuna Bauera 9, Martićeva, tel. 091 502 1898. open hours according to arrangemet.
Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the 30 years of his career. Culty – maybe. Unusual – definitely.QJ-3, Vlaška 113, tel. (+385-) 098 939 71 36, www.lumeziartjewelry.com/. Open 15:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun. call for arrangements (+385) 98 939 71 36. A
This bright and welcoming bookshop specialises in everything related to healthy living: cookery books, vegetarianism, environmentalism, conscious parenting, health and personal development - in Croatian and in English. There’s
Ulični ormar Archivesa lovely selection of books designed to awaken ethical sensibilities in children, plus a range of eco-friendly toys and gifts for everyone.QB-2, Ilica 68, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 97, www.planetopija.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. AVJ
An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here. Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases. Q C - 3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 77, www. stripovi.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. A
fifty exquisite perfumes, skin care and home fragrance brands including Byredo, Escentric Molecules, Juliette Has A Gun, Profvmvm Roma through to Australian Aesop, Dr. Barbara Sturm and more. Other accessories include hard-to-find scented candles and diffusors amongst other items. So turn your home into a sweetly scented haven! You can find them at two city locations, in Tomićeva Street near the funicular, and on the main Ban Jelačić Square. Q B - 2 & C - 2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 09 69, www. top.hr. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A J
There are a couple of very special florists in Zagreb, which are also little conceptual stores. Tvoje.hr is owned by architect and florist Boška Bahtijarević, and everything in it is an expression of her personality and unique bohemian style.
QMartićeva 16f, tel. (+385 - 1) 465 19 84. Open 10:0020:00; Mon 16:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. AJ
The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian gifts and souvenirs created by over 60 local designers. Tote bags with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs, unique jewellery, trendy notebooks and planners, art prints, cool t-shirts, awarded kids’ toys and handmade cosmetics to take home from your trip.QB-2, Tomićeva 4 (near Funicular), tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, www. takemehome.hr. Open 09:30-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. AJ
The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs. Situated in a small courtyard, only a few minutes walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece. Q C - 3, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, www. ulicni-ormar.hr. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; closed Sun. A J 6
Shopping for fragrances, then head to TOP for a journey of the senses! Their range includes more than
This local clothing brand was built around distinctive and unique clothing suggesting that something doesn’t need to be in fashion to be fashionable; refreshing to say the least. The clothes here are made in small series’ by fashion designer Lidija Bošnjak who focuses on detail, high quality materials, functionality and longevity.QD-2, Jurišićeva 10, tel. (+385 ) 95 911 16 22, www.vintagecircus.business.site/. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:0016:00; closed Sun. A
While Zagreb has several smaller hubs and terminals for citywide public buses and trams, there is only one intercity terminal. This can be found to the south east of the city centre, on Avenija Marina Držića, best known as Držićeva. If you wish to get here from the city centre, i.e. from the main square Trg Bana Jelačić, just grab the first 6 you see coming from the west, in the direction of Sopot. The numbers 2, 5, 7 and 8 also stop in front of the station! The 3, 9 and 13 will also run near, but you’ll have to get off and walk one stop further. The majority of timetables are online, with some like Flixbus having additional services listed only on their own site. Tickets can be purchased online and collected at any of 15 points within the terminal itself. If time is a luxury, you can also purchase tickets by phone and have them delivered to your doorstep. Be aware that there is a narrow afternoon delivery window. The coach service for the airport, Pleso prijevoz, leaves from here, every half an hour. If you’re only stopping in Zagreb, waiting on a connecting bus and have a few hours to grab dinner or a drink then you’ll find several cafes along the front of the terminal as well as the excellent Magazinska klet – Pri staroj smokvi to the rear on Strojarska cesta. Try the Leskovački voz (Leskovac ‘train’) while there.
m ai N b us s tatio N ( autobus N i kolodvor)
QE- 4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 072 500 400, www.akz.hr.
The new passenger terminal at the Franjo tuđman Airport, located 17km out of town and with a capacity of hosting 5 million passengers per year, went into commercial use in spring 2017. Getting to town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Franjo Tuđman Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 45kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly.
fra N jo t u Đ ma N iN ter N atio N al a irport Zagreb (Zrač N a luka fra N jo t u Đ ma N Zagreb)
QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-) 060 32 03 20/+385 1 4562
170 (for calls outside Croatia), www.zagreb-airport.hr.
Goran Safarek, ShutterstockThe main train station can be found at the south eastern corner of the Lenuci Horseshoe, a series of parks that were built in the 1800s when this part of the city was considered the outskirts. Here you can find your train for local, national, and international destinations. Access to the station is possible to the rear, where you’ll find a bus terminal servicing multiple suburbs across the south of the city. Once there, you’re walking distance to the city centre, and a pleasurable walk too through three of the parks of the Horseshoe, Trg kralja Tomislava, Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayera, and Zrinjevac. If you need to go further afield than the centre you’ll find tram numbers 2, 4, 6, 9 and 13 passing in either direction, while taxis can also be found out front.
m ai N t rai N s tatio N (g lav N i kolodvor)
QC- 4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-1) 378 25 83, www.hzpp.hr/en.
t he s ljeme c able c ar
Want to enjoy the incredible views from Sljeme on Medvednica mountain without the gruelling hike? Good news, the much-desired cable car is up and running, transporting visitors from the base station in Dolje to the top of the world. Okay, the top of Medvednica, but you get the point. The ride takes about 15 minutes, with weekday departures beginning at 10:00 and ending at 18:30, while weekends start at 09:00 and finish at 18:30. Return tickets are €16.59, with one-way stamps coming in at €9.95. QE -2, Dolje, tel. (+385-1) 458 03 94, www.zet.hr/cable-car/timetable/7772. Open 10:00-18:30; Sat, Sun 09:00-18:30. Last ride from Sljeme at 19:00.
Getting around town is made all the much easier via the city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00 - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. There are 146 daily bus lines and 4 night lines which link Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Bus station on Kvaternik Square is also important because it connects Zagreb with the airport. Tickets valid for 90minutes cost 1,33 € (1,99 € if it was purchased from the driver), while daily tickets are 3,98 €. A 0,53 € ticket (0,80 € from driver) is valid for short rides up to 30 minutes, a 0,93 € ticket (1,33 € from driver) up to 60 minutes. Tickets are available at kiosks and ZET
store or from the driver on buses, and trams. Children under six ride free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an invalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses and trams, simply visit www. zet.hr. Qtel. (+385-) 072 50 04 00, www.zet.hr.
As soon as you reach Zagreb, download Eko Taxi’s free and easy to use application which is available on IOS and Android Systems, and you can order a taxi without even making a call. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 1,59€, and every kilometre thereafter costs 0,92€n. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays. QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 549 94 74/(+385-1) 1414, fax (+385-1) 889 20 11, www.ekotaxi.hr. Open 24 hours. A
Taxis should only charge a 1.99 € flat fee plus 0,80 €/ km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 5,31 € per hour. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.QD - 6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-1) 660 06 71/(+385 1) 1717 / (+385-1) 660 12 35, fax (+385-1) 669 26 86, www.radiotaxizagreb.com/hr/.
These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212. The starting price is €1,33, and every kilometre thereafter costs €0,65 whilst the price for waiting is €0,13 per minute. Prices may increase up to 20% in the period 11:00 PM - 6:00 AM due to the very high demand for the service. Get 20% discount on rides up to €13,14 ordered via Cammeo App.QJ - 4, Ulica Damira Tomljanovića Gavrana 15, tel. +385 (0) 1 1212, www.cammeo.hr/ hr. A
The Uber car service app is in full swing in Zagreb. Go anywhere in the city at any time with the tap of your finger. Use the app to find the driver nearest to you, automatically calculate the fare and pay via their exclusive cashless system. Qwww.uber.com.
www.inyourpocket.com
29. X. 1918. C-1
Aleksandrove stube B-1
Amruševa C-2
Andrije Hebranga B-3
A. Heinza E-1
Andrije Žaje A-3
Antuna Bauera E-3
Arnoldova A-2
Augusta Šenoe D-3
A. Marina Držića E-4
Bakačeva C-2
Barčićeva E-2
Baruna Trenka C-3
Basaričekova C-1
Bednjanska B-4
Berislavićeva C-3
Biankinijeva E-2
Bogovićeva C-2
Božidara Adžije A-3
Branjugova D-2
Brešćenskoga E-2
Britanski trg A-2
Brozova A-4
Buconjićeva A-2
Bulatova A-2
Bulićeva E-2
Čačkovićeva E-1
Cesarčeva C-2
Čirilometodska C-1
Crnatkova A-4
Dalmatinska B-2
Degenova C-1
Demetrova B-1
Dežmanova B-2
Domagojeva D-4
Đorđićeva D-2
Dubravkin put B-1
Dvoranski prečac C-1
Erdödyeva E-3
Felbingerove stube C-1
Florijana Andrašeca A-4
Frane Petrića C-2
Franje Račkog D-2
Frankopanska B-3
Froudeova B-1
Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2
Grgura Ninskog C-4
Gundulićeva B-3
Habdelićeva C-1
Harmica C-2
Hochmanova A-3
Hrvojeva E-3
Ilica A-2
Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1
Ivana Kukuljevića A-2
Ivekovićeve stube D-1
Jagićeva A-3
Janka Draškovića D-3
Jezuitski trg C-1
Jukićeva A-3
Jurišićeva C-2
Jurja Žerjavića B-3
Jurkovićeva E-1
Kačićeva A-3
Kamaufova E-2
Kamenita C-1
Kaptol C-1
Kapucinske stube B-1
Katančićeva C-3
Katarinin trg C-1
Klaićeva A-3
Kneza Borne D-3
Kneza Branimira D-4
Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3
Kneza Mislava D-3
Kneza Mutimira D-3
Kneza Višeslava E-3
Koranska B-4
Kordunska A-2
Koturaška A-4
Kovačića Ante C-3
Kozarčeva A-1
Kotarska C-1
Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2
Kraljice Jelene E-3
Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2 Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1
Miramarska C-4
Mletačka B-1
Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3
Nikole Tesle C-2
Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1 Paromlinska C-4
Patačićkina D-2
Pavla Hatza D-3
Pavla Šubića E-3
Pavlinovićeva A-2
Perkovčeva B-3
Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1
Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2
Posilovićeva E-1
Praška C-2
Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3
Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2
Primorska A-2
Radićeva C-1
Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4
Radnički dol A-1
Ribnjak C-1
Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2
Rubetićeva D-1
Ruđera Boškovića D-3
Runjaninova B-4
Šalata D-1
Savska cesta A-4
Schlosserove stube D-2
Širolina E-3
Skalinska C-1
Smičiklasova D-2
Splavnica C-2
Stančićeva E-3
Starčevićev trg C-4
Streljačka B-1
Strojarska E-4
Strossmayerov trg C-3
Strossmayerovo šet. B-2
Svačićev trg C-3
Švearova E-3
Brezovačkoga B-1
Tkalčićeva C-1
Tomašićeva E-2
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Tomićeva B-2
Tratinska A-4
Trg Ante Starčevića C-4
Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2
Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1
Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1
Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3
Trg žrtava fašizma D-3
Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3
Trg kralja Tomislava C-3
Trg Republike Hrvatske B-3
Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3
Trg Petra Preradovića C-2
Trg Petra Petretića E-1
Trg Svetog Marka C-1
Trnjanska cesta D-4
Trpimirova D-4
Tuškanac B-1
Tvrtkova E-3
Unska B-4
Varšavska B-2
Vinkovićeva C-1
Visoka B-1
Vitezovićeva C-1
Vladimira Nazora A-1
Vlaška D-2
Voćarska cesta E-1
Voćarsko naselje E-1
Vodnikova B-4
Vojnovićeva E-2
Vončininova D-1
Vramčeva D-1
Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1
