Split In Your Pocket 2022

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Hangin’ Out Sightseeing Shopping

Split Summer 2022

N°19 - complimentary copy split.inyourpocket.com

Touring the Split Region: Tips, Advice and Destinations & Activities

Contents ON THE COVER

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Summer Events

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An Island Calling

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Restaurants

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Coffee & Cakes

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Hangin’ Out

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Sightseeing

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Split Surroundings

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Shopping

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Arrival & Getting Around Maps

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City map City centre map

48-49 50

Split, you stunner. We were going to start this issue off by celebrating the end of winter, but the coldest season of the year is also pretty delightful here. Still, good to put the coat in the closet and get planning for warmer weather, right? Split shimmers brightest when the sun is shining, and the next few months promise to be pretty darn spectacular. Spring and summer are the best time of year, and we won’t hear any different.

Split is the perfect combination of everything that makes Dalmatia, well, Dalmatia. Even those with the worst eyesight can see that it is beautiful, but this Adriatic port retains a grittiness that guarantees character and personality in abundance. Tourism remains king, but Split hasn’t just retained its soul; that soul has blossomed. You’ll find it in the taverns, the cafes, the bars and the markets. You’ll find it in the air. You’ll find it everywhere. Wander the narrow streets of Diocletian’s Palace and let the magic of Split wash over you.

We’ve decided to pay special attention to food and drink in this issue, so enjoy our features on the many dishes to expect in this magical part of the world. Add the usual array of fabulous sights and sounds and you’ve got yourself the perfect destination for that 2022 getaway. Feel free to get in touch with us for all your Split needs, whether by social media, e-mail or over a crisp glass of wine on the promenade. We’ll see you there.

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This year’s magnificent cover was made in collaboration with Marko Babić, otherwise known as Artplakata. What is Artplakata? A tremendously creative love letter to the neglected aspects of daily life in our cities, that’s what. Artplakata aims to breathe new life into ignored pieces of architecture and the rest through art, and we’re happy to say that Artplakata more than succeeds.

Photo: Marko Babić

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-856X Company Office & Accounts Croatia In Your Pocket, Zagreb, Croatia zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Ivana Kovačić, Lee Murphy, Jonathan Bousfield, John William Bills Design Ivana Mihoković, Moontage Photography In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Marko Babić, Artplakata Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Kristina Štimac, Višnja Arambašić Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Split (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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Events

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Summer Events 05.05 - 30.09 » The American Dream in Split - From Olympia to Little Floramy A new exhibition in the Gallery of the Museum of the City of Split, ‘The American Dream in Split’ tells the story of Allied ships arriving in the port tasked with maintaining peace in tumultuous times. What followed was a mixture of war-time neurosis, postempire anxiety and an explosion of social joy, as the death of the Austro-Hungarian Empire coincided with the sounds and shapes of American culture. A fabulously fascinating exhibition.The exhibition is held in the Gallery of the Museum of the City of Split in Dioklecijanova Street from 9 am to 8 pm.

Kicking off on July 5, DRAW is a celebration of the magic of drawing, the first medium of art that many of us embrace in those early years.

The Fine Art Gallery and Multimedia Cultural Center in Split plays host to the exhibition, showcasing the creations of beloved artists from every corner of the globe. The central idea is on affirming drawing as an independent disciple, not to mention encouraging creativity through this most magical of art forms. Simplicity, complexity, it is all here

24.05 - 24.09 » Theater by the Sea Theatre by the Sea is a new open-air theatre festival that will delight audiences in Split throughout the summer, one step away from the sea and amongst centuries-old olive trees. This year’s premiere programme presents some of the most popular performances from all over Croatia with top actors. The programme consists of more than 20 different plays for adults and several plays for children. Details about the programme, as well as the purchase of tickets, are available on the official website of the festival. Ticket office open 17:00 - 21:00. Reservation line: 091 795 72 60QLora Summer Stage, Poljudsko šetalište 1e, www.teataruzmore.com/.

14.06 - 21.08 » Ante Mandarić - Spaces of Artistic Search A hugely influential figure in the modern history of art in Split, Ante Mandarić left a legacy worth paying close attention to. This exhibition features 88 of his finest works and marks the first critical retrospective organised by a museum, following the sudden death of the author. A publication with illustrations of the exhibited works will also be available, for anyone looking to take Ante’s influence home with them. QJ‑2, Emanuel Vidović Gallery, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55.

15.06 - 25.07 » Quarneroli - Croats on the Ice Sea 1872-2022 To mark the 150th anniversary of the so-called ‘Quarneroli’ expedition, this fabulous exhibition tells the tale of the Croatian mariners who took part in a scientific jaunt to the Arctic in 1872. Along with fascinating books, documents, stamps and more, a model of the Admiral Tegetthoff will interest and amaze visitors. The exhibition is in Croatian and German. QK‑2, Croatian Maritime Museum Split, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385-21) 34 73 46.

Kara Walker, Buzzards Roost Past from Harper’s Pictorial History of the Civil War, 2005. ©TheLeroyNeimanCenter for Print Studies, Columbia University

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Photo by Nenad Martić

A must for fans of photography, Nenad Martić’s Search will grace Photo Club Split’s gallery throughout June. A diverse range of shots is the centre piece, all award-winning in a variety of competitions around the globe. The exhibition is free to enter, so there really isn’t any excuse.

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Summer Events 16.06 - 25.06 » The 15th Split Mediterranean Film Festival

Ante Mandarić, Head, 2000., stained wood

For 15 year straight, this festival of full-length and short film from the Mediterranean region has established itself as one of the best events on the Adriatic. When you consider that screenings take place on the beach with the summer breeze blowing amongst centuries-old pine trees, how could it not? Bring a blanket! Feel free to contact FMFS at blagajna@fmfs.hr for more information. (+ 385-21) 23 24 42. The festival is also held at two other locations: Cinematheque Zlatna vrata - Dioklecijanova 7, and Youth Centre - Ulica slobode 28.QD‑3, Open Cinema Bačvice, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 86 76, www.fmfs.hr/en/program/.

22.06 - 24.06 » Split Jazz Festival - 101% Jazzy You know what to expect from an event called 101% Jazzy, right? Jazz, and lots of it. A three-day event (June 22 - 24) at Hrvatski Dom Split, day one is all bout the Elvis Stanić Group, a jazz-fusion collective led by the only Croatian jazz musician to have performed twice at the famous festival in Montreal. Day two features the Jan Pele DalMotion Jazz Project, while the final night is all about Sara & Jappa, with special guest Mato Carić on saxophone. Get your tickets in advance for this one.

QHrvatski dom Split, Tončićeva 1, www.hdsplit.hr.

25.06 » Ivo Pogorelić This supreme Croatian pianist has won prestigious awards throughout the world. From New York’s Carnegie Hall to the first classical pianist ever to be invited to Kuwait, his recitals of Bach, Mozart, Beethoven and all the other greats have bought him much praise. We are announcing the final concert of the concert season, where maestro Ivo Pogorelić will perform for the first time in the new Split Concert Hall.QHrvatski dom Split, Tončićeva 1, tel. (+385 - 21) 21 37 75.

Nipplepeople Promo

30.06 - 02.07 » Fibra Festival Its round 3 after last year’s inauguration of this relatively new festival, Fibra (which in local dialect means ‘having a temperature’, or in this case, ‘the summer heat’) is all about bringing the best of urban culture to the forefront. Top regional bands and artists include Hladno pivo, Nipplepeople, Grše, Podočnjaci and others.

From rock and hip hop to even electronic beats, live it up on Bačvice beach.QD‑3, Open Cinema Bačvice, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 86 76.

06.07 - 07.07 » A Sustipan Night’s Dream Sustipan Park will for the seventh year in a row be the location for this exclusive event. Organisers literally go all out to recreate and evoke the atmosphere of Shakespeare’s ‘Midnight Summer Dream’. Dance under the stars in two nights of hedonism with Urban&4, Ante Gelo and String Orchestra. The second evening will feature Goran Bregović & Wedding and Funeral Orchestra.QC‑3, Sustipan, Sustipan. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Summer Events Lado Archives

The dance concert of the LADO Ensemble will be held on July 17 at Sustipan, as part of the Split Summer Festival.

08.07 - 10.07 » Ultra Europe Festival Split once again reverberates to the booming bass of this Adriatic-hopping festival (other Ultra events will be held on Brač, Vis and Hvar), with tens of thousands of revelers enjoying the best that the electronic dance music world can throw at them. QD‑1, Park Youth Stadium, Ulica hrvatske mornarice 10, www. ultraeurope.com.

14.07 - 14.08 » The 68th Split Summer Festival A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and music will be held in venues throughout historical centre of Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre and dance performances from Croatia and abroad. Apart from the Peristyle, the Split Summer Festival will also be held in Meštrovićevo Kaštilec, Sustipan, in the courtyard of the Croatian National Theater in Split, the Bačvice Open-Air Cinema, the Vrlika Fountain and the Sv. Frane.QI‑1, Croatian National Theatre, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, tel. (+385-21) 30 69 08, www.splitsko-ljeto.hr. Everyday.

01.08 - 30.09 » Adriatic bathing heritage Bathing on the Adriatic might seem as natural as breathing by now, but it hasn’t always been the case.

This interesting exhibition tells the story of how coastal tourism developed in these parts, as the improved 8

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connectivity of the north brought foreign capital and visitors in search of sun, sea and serenity. There is a lot more to tourism here than ‘there’s the sea, enjoy’, and this triumph of an exhibition tells a truly captivating story. QK‑2, Croatian Maritime Museum Split, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385-21) 34 73 46.

06.08 - 07.08 » Hard Summer International superstar Calvin Harris will take to the decks at Hard Summer, a celebration of the party lifestyle in magnificent surroundings. Expect Žnjan Beach to turn into a party Mecca on August 6, with all the bells and whistles that such an event provides.

This one will go from late at night until shepherd’s delight, make no mistake about that.

10.08 - 13.08 » Brač Film Festival As soon as you jump off the ferry and onto the beautiful island of Brač, you’re in Supetar, home to this international film festival which consists of a main and side programme. The main programme displays featurelength and short films with an award given to the latter as voted by the public.QSupetar, Brač island, www.bracfilmfestival.hr.

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Summer Events 27.08 - 10.09 » 35th LEN European Water Polo Championships Water polo is a big deal in these parts, make no mistake about that, and the 35th LEN European Water Polo Championships is scheduled to take place in Split between August 27 and September 15. The Spaladium Arena will host some of the most exciting battles you could hope for in the pools, as reigning champions Hungary look to add to the 13th title they won in Budapest in 2020. They’ll have to get through the hosts to get there. QC‑1, Spaladium Arena, Zrinsko Frankopanska 211, www.split2022.len.eu/.

12.10 - 31.10 » VIS-À-VIS 200 The 200th anniversary of the Archaeological Museum in Split promises quite the celebration, one befitting the oldest museum institution in Croatia and Southeast Europe. Vis-à-Vis 200 is the largest exhibition in the history of the museum, a ‘greatest hits’ of sorts that will showcase the best of the best discovered in these parts over the centuries. An absolute must for archaeology fans, Vis-à-Vis might just be the most exciting exhibition in Split this summer. QC‑2, Ar‑ chaeological Museum, Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40.

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Kino Mediteran A sad fact from the march of modern times has been the closure of cinemas, and on the Croatian coast in particular we mourned the loss of open air cinemas which offered the particular pleasure of watching a film on a balmy evening under a starry sky. The great news is, a project named Kino Mediteran has for ten years now been reinstituting cinemas in Dalmatia, with cinemas in 20 towns along the coast and islands. The films on show are current blockbusters, the best of European and world cinema, including a programme for children and titles from current film festivals. During the summer, films have bilingual subtitles so they are accessible for tourists. May this project grow and grow! Locations: Split (Bačvice Open Air cinema), Bol, Supetar, Hvar, Jelsa, Komiža, Lastovo, Imotski, Ploče, Podgora, Cavtat, Korčula, Makarska, Mljet, Selca, Šolta, Trogir, Trpanj.

Check the program: www.kinomediteran.hr.

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Rino Gropuzzo, Supetar Tourist Board Archives

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An Island Calling Stay, Eat, Experiance... Brač Three words describe authentic Brač cuisine: local, organic and seasonal. We urge you to track down restaurants that serve good quality food using the freshest local ingredients - natural, healthy, and delicious. See the Restaurants section which lists our recommendations for the best and most authentic Brač restaurants and turn to the Culture and Events pages to discover the many gastronomy festivals where you’ll have the chance to sample a range of different local specialities. Here are a few pointers to look out for…

Ask any Croatian person what springs to mind when they think of Dalmatian food, and they’ll throw three words right back at you “riba i blitva” (“fish and chard”). Of course, what better to eat than fresh, locally-sourced fish from the clear waters of the Adriatic? On Brač there is no shortage of restaurants with a hotline to a good local fisherman, or in fact, where the proprietors themselves are fishermen as well as restauranteurs.

Speaking of desserts…… naturally the local sweets are made from ingredients indigenous to Brač, such as figs, honey, carob, nuts, grapes, and cherries. Hrapoćuša is a cake made primarily from almonds, walnuts, and lemon. Its spiritual home is the village of Dol. Bračka torta (Brač cake) is a traditional island cake made with almonds and chocolate. Sweet specialities common throughout Dalmatia, you will find also on Brač. They include: rožata, which is similar to crème caramel, light and crispy fritters called hroštule and mendule u cukru, almonds rolled in caramelised sugar.

Ivana Petrović Šugar, Supetar Tourist Board Archives

Brač also has a commercial fish factory in Postira, which was established in 1906 and specialises in the canning of oily fish such as sardines, tuna and mackerel.

Of course, there are a million ways of preparing fish but it’s hard to beat the simplest and most flavoursome: grilled over charcoal, smothered with olive oil and served with a side dish of chard, which is a leafy green vegetable, not unlike spinach, but without the odd feeling that spinach seems to create on your teeth. At certain times of the year, you may be offered wild greens and do try these if you get the chance. Other seasonal vegetables which are rather special are asparagus, usually the slim, potent, wild variety (divlja šparoga), and broad beans (bob), both of which can be prepared in a myriad of ways.

Brač is known as the “inland island”, as for centuries its interior was far more populated than its coast. The inland occupation of raising stock for regional dishes, is recognised even today in the island’s cuisine, where fish is balanced by traditional meat dishes, using lamb and goat. The inhabitants of these inland communities also made their living from the production of olive oil and wine. You can buy both commercially produced oil and the local home-made Brač extra virgin olive oil, which has a delightfully strong, fruity flavour. Don’t be shy to try the locally produced wine either. Most can be surprisingly good. The local variety is Plavac Mali, the grapes of which thrive best on the southfacing slopes on the southern part of the island.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Ivana Petrović Šugar, Supetar Tourist Board Archives

Another excellent local Brač product is cheese made from sheep’s milk. It is a hard cheese and has a delicious nutty flavour though not overpowering. Unfortunately, good local cheese is in short supply, because it’s traditionally made only in Spring and while it can be found in better restaurants, it is in limited supply as stocks do not last long. Such restaurants might also offer škuta on the dessert menu. This is a very soft, fresh, young cheese, neutral in flavour and often served with pancakes, either caramelised or with honey. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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An Island Calling We like meeces to pieces!

The culinary speciality of which Bračans are very proud is Myoxus glis or Glis glis – otherwise known as the edible or fat dormouse. Oh no! When you see the bushy-tailed little creatures, reminiscent of grey squirrels but with chubby faces and great beady eyes, the eating of them is the last thing that springs to mind. However, the tradition of eating this animal, known as a “puh” in Croatian (and pronounced to rhyme with “woof”), goes back to Roman times.

In countries where the puh is common, it may be considered a pest because of its penchant for nibbling through useful things like electric cables. Interestingly, there is a colony of 10 000 around the English town of Tring after the “great escape” of these intrepid animals from the private collection of the 2nd Baron Rothschild in 1902. In the UK they enjoy some degree of protection. In Slovenia, however, not only is their eating a part of the folk culture but their fat has been prized as a medicament since the Middle Ages.

On Brač, the puh is considered an exceptionally healthy animal to consume as its diet primarily consists of clean vegetable sources, e.g. acorns and grape seeds. For the full puh experience you’re supposed to catch the animal yourself by setting a trap in a tree. It should be roasted over an open fire and the specimen must be fat! If you intend trying this unusual delicacy, you must ask your host in one of the island’s more traditional restaurants to source it for you. But……..! We ourselves say, “Leave da liddle bebbehs alone! Pooh to eating the puh!”

Hrapoćuša This unique dessert is made only on Brač, particularly in the village of Dol, so definitely give it a go in one of Dol’s taverns (tavern is ‘konoba’ in Dalmatian dialect). Hrapoćuša is a crescendo of nuts, lemon, caramelised sugar and egg yolk, a calorific bomb whose taste explosion induces an intense sugar rush and has been nicknamed “Dol Viagra” with good reason.

Vitalac Fans of offal will be overjoyed to learn that one of Brač’s culinary specialities is made from the offal of goat or lamb. Not only is it a delicacy that is raved about by aficionados, but the tradition of making it is so old and so unique that Vitalac is listed as an item of non-material cultural heritage in Croatia. A skewer is threaded with small pieces of kidney, lung or whatever is available to you, then salted and wrapped in a soft piece of muscle tissue, gently barbecued, then wrapped in a piece of intestine and roasted for a further hour until crispy on the outside. The resulting sausageshaped delicacy is removed from the skewer, salted, sliced, and served warm. The dousing with lashings of extra virgin olive oil makes the ingestion of this delicacy almost bearable for those who are not fans of offal.

Supetar Tourist Board Archives Supetar Tourist Board Archives

Brač olive oil Brač varenik was recently protected across the entirety of the EU as the 26th Croatian national product and is the first from the island of Brač. Brač olive oil as the 33rd Croatian product, achieved the same level of protection which has opened a new chapter in the production and marketing of this ‘yellow gold’.

Today, Brač is the largest olive-growing and olive oil-producing area in Croatia and the olive oil produced on the island of Brač is of the highest quality. As well as the Brač stone, Brač olive oil really is a must-have, take-home souvenir from this beautiful island.

Varenik Brački varenik is an indigenous Croatian food product from the island of Brač, protected on an EU level. It is a reduced liquid food supplement obtained after a long cooking process. The juice of the local wine grapes variety’s juice is simmered and when the original volume of the grape juice is reduced to 1/3, it is done. Because of the 15-hour cooking process and its nutritive value, Brački varenik is sold at around 500 kn per litre or 67 E/L. It is a great replacement for sugar and has been in use on the island for centuries, long before cane sugar. Brački varenik is the perfect addition to stews, homemade biscuits, ice cream and is an ideal gourmet souvenir of the island. It can be ordered from local, certified island producers.

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Restaurants SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

J Old town location

Croatian Grego Levante Charming little restaurant, beamed ceilings and an original stone wall as part of the minimalist décor! That aside, the food is Croatian with a creative twist, lots of freshness about it and we suggest the risotto with cuttlefish or shrimp. Candlelit tables give it spark and the service is A+.QD‑3, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 204 22 22. Open 12:00-24:00; closed Tue. (90 - 160kn). N ­PGBJ6­W Hvaranin To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a konoba, ‘small old stone buildings’ where fisherman once spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija.QH‑2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 099 667 58 91. Open 12:00 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (100 - 150kn). A­PG­­B­W

gorgeous mosaic glass lamps hanging over each table. A great place for when you’re in the mood for Mediterranean seafood cuisine, such as shrimp risotto, calamari, octopus salad and grilled fish.QE‑3, Put Firula 17, tel. (+385-21) 38 87 36. Open 12:00-23:00. (100 - 200kn). A­P­ GB6­W Konoba Varoš It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless.QH‑2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, www.konobavaros.com. Open 09:0024:00. (80 - 200kn). A­P­G­B­W Ma:toni This beautifully decorated restaurant is located in an arched room, adorned in warm cream tones with dark wooden tables. Metal doors and chandeliers give a Middle Ages feel to the place. They offer traditional Mediterranean food, using fresh seasonal ingredients, created with a contemporary twist.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21) 27 84 57, www.ma-toni.com. Open 12:30-23:00; closed Mon. (78 140 kn). A­P­G­T­B­6­W

Kod Joze Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out.QJ‑2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00. (55 - 150kn). A­P­G­ B­6­W Konoba Barkarola Looking for a typical Dalmatian tavern overlooking the sea, then Barkarola is it! And of course, the menu is well stocked with seafood as well as steak, risotto, carpaccio, salad and mega platters. The selection of Croatian wines is considerable especially those from Dalmatia. With the marina in the foreground, it’s a nice place to wind down after a day of sightseeing.QE‑3, Šetalište Kalafata 2, tel. (+385-) 097 629 11 74, www.barkarola.hr. Open 08:00-24:00. (65 - 180kn).

A ­P­G­B­S­L­K Konoba Nevera Ahoy matey! All aboard this fish restaurant decorated in a nautical style with an anchor, compass and fisherman statue, placed among the uber-chic stone wall interior and facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Beren Sutton Cleaver, Unsplash

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Restaurants Noštromo Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well.

Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.QI‑2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, www.restoran-nostromo.hr. Open 11:00-23:00.

(200 - 250kn). A ­P­G­B­6­W Pinku Fish & Wine You know what you’re going to get from a place with fish and wine in the name. Put simply, you’re going to get fish and you’re going to get wine, and there are few more tantalising combinations than that. Pinku gets it right, making the most of its location near the fish market to fill its offer with the freshest catch, making for a small menu that focuses on quality over quantity. QI‑1, Obrov 4, tel. (+385-21) 24 46 28, www. pinkusplit.com/. Open 08:00-24:00; closed Sun. (120230kn). Šperun Eat and Drink A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special is often a good bet.

QH‑2, Šperun 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99/(+385-) 091 555 42 62. Open 09:00-23:00. (45 - 180kn). A ­P ­ G­B­J­ Šug If your restaurant smells like truffles, the chances are good that we’re going to be all sorts of love in with the place. Šug is all that and more, serving up Dalmatian classics in a busy setting that ticks both the ‘business lunch’ and ‘contemplating a marriage proposal’ boxes. The fish options are understandably popular, the duck is magnificent, and a rotating offer of daily specials is available at lower prices. QTolstojeva 1a, tel. (+385-) 099 458 89 94, www.sug.hr/. Open 08:00-24:00; closed Sun. (95400kn). A ­P B­W Trattoria Tinel Try out some delicious Dalmatian specialities among the stone walls and white wooden tables, bar and credenza that give a homey feel to this restaurant. It’s a great place to eat when you’re not sure what you’re in the mood for since the menu has a large variety of choices to satisfy everyone’s cravings. Chicken or mixed vegetable salads, with a side of fish soup can be enjoyed for starters.

Homemade pasta, pljukanci, with shrimps and vegetables, green pasta with seafood or veal steak served Viennese style are great choices for a main course. QH‑2, Tomića Stine 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 97, www.trattoriatinel.com/. Open 08:00-24:00. (75 - 350kn). A­P ­G­ B­E­6­ 14 Summer 2022

Uje Oil Bar Walk in and it’s hard not to feel the cosiness of the first Croatian olive oil bar, a place for fine wining and dining with a menu revamped almost daily pending on the fresh ingredients coming through. The one thing that doesn’t change is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round and offers a truly amazing culinary experience.QJ‑2, Dominisova 3, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, www.oilbar. hr. Open 12:00-24:00. (80 - 200kn). A ­P­G­B­J­6 Villa Spiza Located by Diocletian’s palace, this small and cozy restaurant offers a simple, yet varied menu, with vegetable soup, risotto and pasta dishes, such as pasta with prawns or risotto with sea shells, as well as rump steak and lamb chops. They offer a daily selection of new traditional Dalmatian dishes made using only seasonal fresh ingredients.QI‑2, Kružićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 091 152 12 49.

Open 09:00-24:00; closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). N­P ­G­ TBJ­6­W Zlatna ribica Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in.QI‑2, Kraj Svete Marije 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Open 06:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. (50 - 90kn). N ­P­G­W

Modern European Adriatic Do you want to eat your dinner with a darling view of the Adriatic? Who in their right mind is going to say no to that question? What Restaurant Adriatic lacks in a fancy name, it more than makes up for in aesthetics and quality, although its various faces each offer something slightly different. Pizza lovers should make a beeline for the Skipper pizzeria, although it is difficult to look past the sunlit terrace with its unbeatable views. QC‑3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 60, www.restaurantadriatic.com/. Open 12:00-24:00.

(100-200kn). A ­P­G­B­W ARTiČOK This very cosy and sleek restaurant is all about attention to detail. Platters, soups, risottos, tuna, rabbit, mussels, homemade macaroni, anti-pasta and so much more to offer. A genuine touch of hedonism on the menu and why not! Gluten free options are also available. FYI, the Čok in ArtiČok is Dalmatian slang for a small bite, so the whole name actually refers to the art of eating!QI‑2, Bana Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-21) 81 93 24, www. articoksplit.eatbu.hr/. Open 12:00-24:00. Three course meal 250kn. A ­P­G­S­J­K­

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Restaurants

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Restaurants Brasserie on 7 Located along Split’s famous Riva waterfront overlooking the Adriatic. French gastronomy is combined with Croatian cuisine to create delicious dishes throughout the day. Breakfast includes French toast, eggs benedict, croissants, acai bowl, chia pudding, egg white omelette, your typical English style breakfast and homemade granola with muesli. Early birds can waddle in from 07:30 - 11:00. Lunch and dinner specialties include spinach and grilled octopus salad, veal fillet, 300grm rib eye steak, cheese platters, tuna steak and the Fruit de mer are just some of the appetizing Mediterranean meals available.

QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+38521) 27 82 33, www.brasserieon7.com. Open 08:0-11:00, 12:00-23:30. (98 - 195kn). A­P­G­T­B­J­6­ Duje This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports recreation centre – Koteks. It’s a classic family eatery with a predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines.QD‑2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. (+385-21) 54 81 00, www.restoranduje.hr.

Open 10:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. (60 - 170kn). A­P­G­ B­E­L­W Dvor Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot for a delicious meal. Simply decorated with white walls and blackand-white photography, while green, pink and purple colourful chairs add splashes of colour to the place. Offering delectable Mediterranean dishes, as well as delicious desserts.QE‑3, Put Firula 14, tel. (+385-21) 57 15 13. Open 12:00-23:00. (160 - 900kn). A­PGTB6­ Fantazija Kitchen and Wine If you close your eyes and imagine a romantic dining experience in Split, you’re going to conjure up something that isn’t too far from Fantazija. This delightful Mediterranean stunner is housed in a stone house that doubles up as a cultural experience in itself, although it is the supreme quality of the food that undoubtedly shines as the main event. Nothing is left to chance here, and the dining experience is all the better for it.

Is it cheap? Heck no, but it is worth it. QBana Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-21) 25 60 00, www.fantazija-split.com/. Open 18:0024:00; closed Mon. (170-380kn).

Mazzgoon Food Nestled in a courtyard, the stone walls surrounding the outdoor terrace are tastefully decorated with greenery and fresh flowers adorn the tables, offering a homey and calming atmosphere. Delicious gnocchi and pasta dishes are offered, such as truffle pasta or pasta with sun dried tomatoes, as well as meat and fish dishes that will make your mouth water.

QJ‑2, Bajamontijeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 987 77 80, www. mazzgoonfood.com/. Open 12:00-23:30. (120 - 220 kn).

A­P­G­­E­6 NoStress Bistro Located on the famous Narodni trg, this ultra-chic bistro is decorated with an abundance of flower pots that adorn the terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic feel. It’s a great spot to chat 16 Summer 2022

with some friends or view the latest fashion trends walking by the square while nibbling on contemporary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian region. For your first meal of the day, the breakfast offer (08:00 - 11:30) consists of omelette, toast, eggs benedict and a hot cappuccino. Lunch and beyond includes wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese and beef fillet steak with creamy saffron sauce.

During the summer season, it’s open until 02:00, making it a great place to enjoy a cocktail at night.QI‑2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385-) 099 498 18 88, www.bistro-nostress.com. Open 08:00-23:30. (110-210kn). A­­BE­J6 Perivoj Looking for a little oasis inside a very busy city, then Perivoj is a great escape and even has a fountain and garden to treasure. Their desserts are city famous and the range of entrees and mains are well thought out; beef, octopus, brodetto, fish carpaccio and more. The wine selection is vast with friendly service to top it off. Enjoy Perivoj!QD‑2, Slavićeva 44, tel. (+385-) 091 794 57 40, www.restoran-perivoj.com/. Open 08:00-24:00. (120 - 245kn). A­PG­­B­E­ Zoí It is said that you should let go of the past but restaurant Zoí definitely doesn’t. In fact, the Emperor’s dining room was once right next to the restaurant, giving this place a special historical feel. Zoí (Greek for “life”) offers a unique experience, embedding food from the ancient trade routes from Lebanon to Greece, Italy, France and the Balkans.

Cultures and music entwine with wine and delicacies that are fine, and the décor is all stone and modern elegance. The terrace overlooking the sea is sublime with the vibe of the town just beneath you. That this is an unforgettable and sensual experience is now recognised by Michelin, who awarded Zoí two forks and spoons denoting comfort and quality. QJ‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 23, tel. (+385-21) 63 74 91, www.zoi.hr. For lunch open 12:00 - 15:00, for dinner open 18:00 - 24:00. (300kn mains / 590kn for 3 course menu / 990kn for 7 course menu). A­P­T­B­J­6­

Pizza Bokamorra Pizzaurant & Cocktails An out of the ordinary pizzeria and cocktail bar. The pizza menu is brief, and the premium ingredients are sourced fresh in Italy or home-made onsite. The pizzas are light, soft, springy and tasty. Add a creative cocktail list and a vibrant interior (pizza oven clothed in golden mosaic) and you have a rather special experience.QC‑3, Obala Ante Trumbića 16, tel. (+385-) 099 417 71 91. Open 12:00-24:00. (72 - 95kn). A­P­W Gušt You’ve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it’s right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take the street on the right. After 50m, turn left and take an immediate left again. There you’ll find Gušt, a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas.QJ‑1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 63 33, www.pizzeria-gust.hr.

Open 10:00-23:00; closed Sun. (43 - 69kn). A­P­G­6­W split.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

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Restaurants Maslina A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas and pasta.QI‑2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 88. Open 12:00-23:30. (60 - 160kn).

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Quick Eats Bepa Located in the heart of the Old Town Split, on a historical Pjaca, this charming street food restaurant is the perfect spot for a hearty brunch offering fab various breakfast dishes from egg Benedict to avo egg, and waffles. Lunch is a must here as the natural shade and the green wooden tables and chairs on the outdoor terrace, give an earthy cool green peaceful feel to the place. Light lunch options are bountiful as are the portions and include salads, daily pasta options and burgers and sandwiches. Everyone is welcomed so even the most rigorous vegans will have delicious choices here. Visit for brunch from 07:00 17:00. At dinner time the team of the restaurant changes.

Everything slows and becomes more romantic. The major delicacy on the menu are the speciality skewers grilled on open fire wood grill. The choices are many: tuna, shrimp, swordfish, beef, kefta, chicken… It is often a case to see guest come here twice a day as the quality and the price are a match and the scene is just the right amount of vi-

brant and historical.QI‑2, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 46, www.bepa.hr. Open 08:00-24:00. (75 - 170kn).

A ­P­G­T­B­J­6 Kantun Paulina Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand on the corner serves them up right. There’s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street and watch the night-time drama unfold.QI‑2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 59 73. Open 08:00-23:30; Sun 10:00-23:30.

(26 - 45kn). N­P­G­B­W Rizzo Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack.QI‑2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 83 49, www.rizzo.com.hr. Open 08:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-23:00.

(12 - 30kn). N­B­W Sexy Cow With rave reviews online, ‘Sexy Cow’ is a great addition to the city food offer and the menu is packed with awesome ‘wraps & tortillas’ filled with heaps of ingredients, local too. The beef, veg and chicken wraps rock, the French-fries and sauces are also a great addition. Whereas the Nutella Boom Shake is a quench for hunger. As the locals say, come and visit the ‘new cow on the block’.

QI‑1, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-21) 78 07 82, www.sexy-cow.com. Open 11:00-23:00. (58 - 75kn).

A ­P­G­T­B­S­J­K­ Toto’s Burger Bar A buzz for burgers ranging from classic types to original and innovative sorts can be had; both meat and veggie.

Spaghetti, soups, juices and salads are also on the menu!

Their breakfast and dessert offer has just been released, lots of omelettes & yoghurt cups, as well as sugar and gluten free cakes.QH‑2/3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+385-21) 31 40 40. Open 11:00-23:45. (53 - 100 kn).

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Vegetarian Up Café An ultra-modern chic oasis of healthy food and natural beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredients, without any additives. Rise and shine for breakfast which includes freshly squeezed juice, burritos, cakes, pies, chia and millet pudding, and oatmeal. This healthy cuisine offers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such as tofu burritos, protein meal, hemp burgers and baked vegetable crepes with cheese. All natural sweets to munch on for dessert such as a bajadera biscuits, raffaello squares, microbiological nougat squares, these taste great along with bio-fruit juice or organic tea.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www.upcafe.hr. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 08:0017:00; closed Sun. (25 - 75kn). N ­P­G­B­V­6 18 Summer 2022

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Coffee & Cakes Cafés As you wind your way through the streets and alleys of Split’s old town, you’ll encounter more cafes and bars than you can shake a stick at and the summer season will offer you no end of folks to browse impertinently, be they tourist or local. Nearly every cafe offers some kind of outdoor seating, but selecting the right spot will significantly affect your cool rating. Choose wisely.

4coffee soul food The name says it all, heartfelt ownership and staff that make every effort to ensure your experience is soulful!

Though tiny inside, the coffee experience is why locals reverberate here as the beans that are used and served send a scent of freshness and in the air will have your nose twinkling.QJ‑2, Hrvojeva 9, tel. (+385-) 097 678 77 70.

Open 07:00-17:00; Sun 07:00-13:00. W Ćakula Choose from the fine range of beers, spirits, liqueurs, and cocktails on offer and don’t forget peruse the café interior with its renaissance like frescoes in what is a gorgeous setting.QD‑2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 1, tel. (+385-21) 20 98 26, www.kavana-cakula.hr. Open 07:00-23:00; Sun 07:00-22:00. A ­P­­B­J­W D16 Specialty Coffee Split’s coffee haven is in fine form with amazing reviews on social media. Positioned in the heart of town, D16 Coffee serves 100% Arabica freshly roasted using specialty coffee beans. You can also take your coffee to-go in biodegradable cups or sit down for a break from sightseeing. If you want a cold drink, the cold brew coffee is a hit.

It’s not pricey and the quality is excellent. Free wifi available and do check out the mural inside showcasing the history of coffee. QJ‑2, Dominisova 16, tel. (+385-) 095 800 54 67, www.d16coffee.com. Open 07:00-21:00.

A ­P­G Galerija Once you are seated pick and choose from a whole range of coffee sorts that go down well with the walnut cakes, strudels, frappes and chocolate fondues on offer. Those pursuing something stronger have numerous fruit cocktails, local/international beers, wines and liquors to keep you jostling!QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomis‑ lava 15, tel. (+385-) 098 967 03 11. Open 08:00-24:00.

N ­P­G­­B­J­6­W Green House A city cafe in a residential area of Split, Green House brings the twin joys of caffeine and cakes together with personality in spades. And sandwiches, don’t forget the sandwiches, although this place is just as popular for a quick coffee as it is a light lunchtime bite. Green House also hosts the occasional live entertainment event, so keep an eye on their social media for those. QPoljička 20b, tel. (+385-21) 27 73 40. Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sun. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Kakantun Archives

KaKantun Small but perfectly formed, Kakantun is a darling coffee and gin bar hidden in the narrow streets of Diocletian’s Palace. The coffee is excellent and the brownies are even better, while the gin selection focuses on quality over quantity, and we’re always in favour of such things.

The friendly staff are the cherry on top of this delightful cake. QDujma Vušković, tel. (+385-) 095 543 95 95.

Open 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-01:00.

Kalafatić Caffe bar/Restaurant If you wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are perfect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly company. With a view of the bay and boats and the smell of the sea, it’s a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the whole picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bačvice beach.

QE‑3, Cvjetna 1, tel. (+385-) 091 444 10 01/(+385-21) 38 91 01. Open 07:00-24:00. P­G­B­6­W Kava 2 Drinking coffee is becoming an increasingly romantic pastime, so it warms the cockles to champion the caffeine served by a couple who have made their way as wedding photographers. This is coffee served with an extra side of love, hot stuff to savour while taking in the stripped-back terrace. Kava2 is just outside Diocletian’s Palace, making it a great place to stop off for a caffeine fix before heading back into the narrow streets. QAnte Starčevića 2, www. kava.family/. Open 07:00-13:00;17:00-21:00; Sat 08:0013:00;17:00-21:00; Sun 08:00-13:00.

Kavana Procaffe A superb place for reading the daily paper and sipping a coffee with an outlook toward the Kaštela towns and the Kozjak mountain. In lovely weather, there’s nothing better than sitting here and watching the passing sailboats and rowboats.QC‑2, Špinutska 67, tel. (+385-21) 38 43 23, www.procaffe.hr. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 08:00-24:00.

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Coffee & Cakes Sweet Treats Bobis - Riva A Split institution, Bobis has been providing the city’s citizens with delectable eats since 1950. There are a load of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has arguably the best location, as it’s right on the Riva. You can match your coffee with an appropriate pastry or choose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike around Marjan.QI‑3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda 20, www. bobis.hr/. Open 06:00-24:00. N ­G­B Goluzarije Got a sweet tooth? Want something light’n’fresh? Goluzarije is a funky little patisserie/cake and coffee shop that prides itself exclusively on traditional cakes made according to traditional recipes.QI/D‑2, Ulica Zrinsko Franko‑ panska 1, tel. (+385-21) 41 24 12. Open 07:00-23:00.

Luka Ice-cream & Cakes Known as one of the best places for ice cream in Split, these delicious homemade ice cream flavours will have you coming back over and over again for more. Every day they produce new flavours made with fresh ingredients, so you’ll never get bored trying all the flavours. As well, they also serve tasty pie, cheesecake and smoothies.QI‑1, Petra Svačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 908 06 78. Open 08:0024:00. N ­P­G­B­J­6­W O’š kolač?

Oš kolač is paradise for lovers of fine pastries, cakes, pancakes, biscuits and handmade creams. Pastry chef Tea Mamut has served famous movie stars whilst working abroad and now returns home where she combines Dalmatian recipes with a refreshing modern day outlook whilst using a selection of local fresh ingredients. So why not treat yourself to something sweet?QI‑1, ĆirilMetodova 4, tel. (+385-21) 48 04 44/(+385-) 099 480 44 45, www.oskolac.hr/. Open 09:00-21:00; closed Sun. A ­P­G­B­J­6­W Stari Plac Pancakes If you’re feeling peckish and savouring something sweet, then head to ‘Stari Plac’ which has quickly become a fav amongst ‘Splićani’. With a whopping 60 salty and sweet pancakes on offer, you’re bound to go haywire with such abundance. They also serve gluten free and protein pancakes with oats, not to mentioned freshly squeezed juice and ice-cream. How can you resist that? Also at Boškovićeva 9, E-3.QI‑1, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-21) 78 52 90. Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:0024:00. A ­P­T­B­S­J­

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Tradicija This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition – just as the name itself!QI‑2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21) 36 10 70.

Open 08:00-21:00; Sat 08:00-20:00; closed Sun. N ­P­S

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Hangin’ Out Antique Bar Positioned on the Riva, Antique Bar entwines a tinge of classical design with modern appeal. There seems like a touch of hedonism is in the air and it’s a perfect place to chill for coffee or other finer beverages. Choose to sit indoors or outdoors as people pass on by.QI‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6, tel. (+385-) 099 3322 281. Open 08:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 08:0002:00. A­PBE­W Bar Sistema Cocktails, cocktails, cocktails. Okay, other drinks are available at Bar Sistema, but most are headed this way to drink colourful concoctions while looking drop-dead gorgeous. A place to be seen sort of joint, Sistema ticks all the boxes that a modern nightlife spot must, with a photogenic style that compliments the undeniable confidence and swagger of it all. QKačićeva 7.

Open 17:00-24:00.

Central the Club A 360 degree renovation of the former ‘Central’ Cinema has now turned into a two floor nightclub with four bars, VIP lodges and state of the art sound. Each night is theme based from evergreens to disco to world famous DJs playing live. Tops for a perfect all-nighter!QI‑1, Trg Gaje Bulata bb, tel. (+385-) 091 332 32 34, www.centralclub.hr/. Open 00:00-05:00.

Fabrique Gastro Pub Located centrally in the historical palace, the sheer interior oozes all that is old ‘n’ new and the lighting really sets the tone. Beer wise, there are 40 or so international beers and top Croatian craft beers. Fabrique has DJs spinning tunes every evening and you can stay all night or drop in for some warm up drinks before a night out.QI‑2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 098 175 12 71. Open 10:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. A­P­GB­W

QJ‑2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. (+385-21) 78 20 10. Open 08:00-24:00; closed Sun. N ­P G­B­6­W Vanilla Match the look of Split’s beautiful people who frequent this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. The club was recently renovated and is now open only on Friday and Saturday nights.QC‑2, Mediteranskih igara 21, tel. (+385-) 099 831 30 50, www.club-vanilla.hr. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00. July 01 - August 31 Open 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00.

A­PGB­W Žbirac It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice for a coffee.

This elevated Split trendy beach spot has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge!QD‑3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b.

Open 07:30-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:30-01:00. N­P­G­­B­W Zenta Club Zenta is outside the city but on the beachfront and is open as a beach bar in the mornings and then transforms into a nightclub when the sun sets. Zenta has multiple floors and a terrace to dance the night away. Themed nights are part and parcel of the event programme.QE‑3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. 099 414 9329, www.zentasplit.com/. Open Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00; closed Tue, Thu, Sun. A­PG­B­E­6­W Fabrique Archives

Moon bar Moon Bar has quickly become a hit amongst ‘Splićani’ with lots of theme nights, DJs and live bands performing throughout the year. There is always action aplenty and the modern and futuristic interior adds to the ambience. Lighting is effective with laser like rays spreading across the venue, you might be packed like a sardine at times but that’s what creates the atmosphere.

QE‑3, Matice hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-) 095 595 37 99. Open 07:00-24:00. A­P­G­­B­E­L­W Noor Bar This stunning bar packs into its small interior a fabulous selection of quality spirits and specialises in craft cocktails. Superbly imaginative and absolutely delicious, each cocktail really is hand crafted for your olfactory pleasure and visual splendour.

Cool, refined and very special.QI/J‑2, Bajamontijeva 2, tel. (+385-) 098 987 77 80, www.noor.bar/. Open 06:00-01:00.

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Fabrique Archives

Teak caffe Yep, the interior is all done up in teak and lined on one side by the original northern wall of the palace. Outdoor seating is available in a pleasant courtyard, cozily surrounded by the stone walls of neighbouring buildings. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Sightseeing essential split Do you know what is so eloquent about Split? The possibility to stroll through the Diocletian palace for free, to drink coffee inside the palace, to enjoy the sunshine, listen to the tender sounds of klape singing, to walk through this place where ancient people used to live.

Diocletian’s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian’s palace has become the quintessential “living museum”, as modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient palace complex.

The part of the palace known as “the basement” was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now, it’s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures.QI/J‑2.

Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifullyrestored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953). Croatia’s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a lifelong fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section of Vidović’s uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating re-creation of the artist’s former studio – including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A Croatian-language film about Vidović’s life can be seen on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in.QJ‑2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55, www. galerija-vidovic.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. Admission 25/15 kn.

Fish Market (Ribarnica) Upon entering, you might feel compelled to crack the classic, “Something’s fishy here…” joke, but please refrain – it’s been said before. What you can do is check out the hustle and bustle of weighing, cutting, haggling and trading that has been going on at this site since the fish market moved from its original location in the south-eastern part of the palace comGrgur Ninski In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin.

Naturally, this started a firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck).QJ‑2.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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plex in 1843. The interesting smells emanating from the fish market might be compounded with another distinctive odor wafting through the air, that of sulphur. There’s a sulphur spa nearby whose smell frequently mingles with the smell of fish, creating a truly interesting amalgamation of aromas.QI‑2, Obrov 5. Open 06:00-13:00; Sun 06:00-12:00.

Green Market (Pazar) Any traveller worth their salt wants to get real and rub elbows with some of the locals and Split’s Pazar is the place to go to satisfy that desire. Jump in and join in the hubbub going on, all dedicated to good ol’ small scale market capitalism. The buying and selling frenzy involves a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing and other odds and ends.QJ‑3.

Marjan Forest Park Your first impressions of Split may well be the immense stone buildings that surround the city and its orange terracotta roofs clashing with the serene blue sea in the foreground. Yet there is a greener side to the city that deserves a mention.

The Marjan Forest Park is the so called ‘lung’ of the city. Located west, the hill is 178 metres high and at its highest point is 3.5 km long. Its forestation process began in 1852 and over time has seen the park become a haven for locals and visitors.

Few inhabitants can resist the peace and tranquillity the park offers, the great little getaway from the rushes of life. The biodiversity of species is vast from small mammals and bird inhabitants as well as the reintroduction of game (rabbit, partridge, roe deer…). Aleppo pine dominates the area along with the dispersal of flora and fauna.

When strolling through the park the churches, galleries, museums and monuments recount the glory of Split. Highlights include the 15th century Church of Saint Jere with the relief of Saint Geronimo and close by there is the Ascetic Cave where Saint Geronimo supposedly resided. There is the Meštrović Gallery, the Karepića Tower used for shelter against invaders and the famous Marjan Steps offer amazing photo snapshots.

Almost the entire area of the Marjan is a network of stone drywalls, a construction made of natural stone which has been a part of the Croatian coast and the Mediterranean since the prehistoric times. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Jogging and cycling tracks attract many fitness goers and the St. Benedict Bay, also known as Bene, has a Sports and Recreation Centre great for young and old. The beachside facilities are second to none.

Come for a picnic, take in some fresh air or simply discover the alluring Marjan Forest Park in all its glory, a park which has enchanted generations of Split residents.

Public Institution for the Marjan Forest Park, Cattanijin put 2, phone (+385-21) 38 40 97, tajnica@marjan-parksuma.hr, www.marjan-parksuma.hr.

Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia’s second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port.

The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis.QA/B‑2/3.

Riva If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side. It’s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching. Split’s Riva continues westwards and is as picturesque as ever, perfect for a stroll, coffee, or relaxing on the deck chairs.QI‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda.

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Sightseeing The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor’s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian’s victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.QJ‑2.

Veli Varoš Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.QH‑2.

Ivan Meštrović Museums Archives

museums Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia.

The museum’s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including pre-historic, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC‑2, Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, www. armus.hr. Open 09:00-14:00, 16:00-20:00; closed Sun. Ad‑ mission 40/20 kn.

Croatian Maritime Museum Split (Hrvatski pomorski muzej Split) Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you’ll miss out on many of Split’s more quirky delights, of which the mari24 Summer 2022

time museum is undoubtedly one. It’s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the WhiteheadLupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka. To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks – a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress.QK‑2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385-21) 34 73 46, www.hpms.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/10 kn.

Ethnographic Museum Split (Etnografski muzej Split) If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia’s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years.QJ‑3, Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr. Open 09:30-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/10 kn. Vestibul 5 kn.

Game of Thrones Museum The majestic HBO series has had many of its scenes recorded throughout Croatia, including Split. In-fact, only a stone throw from the museum itself is Diocletian’s basements where Khaleesi put the dragons in captivity. The museum includes weapon and garment replicas, several thematic rooms dedicated to key cities and characters, photographs taken on the film set, Sandor and more. Step aside and make space for some photos with the likes of Daenerys, Arya Stark, Jon Snow, Hodor and many others.QI‑2, Bosanska ulica 9, tel. (+385-) 099 694 03 12, www.gameofthronesmuseum.hr. Open 09:00-22:00; Mon, Thu, Fri 10:00-20:00. J Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in 1962.

A five-minute walk further west along the same road is the split.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Galerija Meštrović Split SCULPTURE MUSEUM

www.mestrovic.hr

Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a 16th-century agricultural fortified property bought by Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably the artist’s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of 35 years’ work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture.

QB‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385-21) 34 08 00, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 09:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 50, Family (parents with children under 15): 70.

The ticket includes visit to the Meštrović Gallery and the Meštrović’s Crikvine – Kaštilac.

Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.QA‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385-21) 32 39 01/(+385-21) 32 39 09, www.mhas-split.hr.

Open 09:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. Admission 20kn/10kn. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Museum of Fine Arts (Galerija umjetnina) Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović included.

Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. The museum’s temporary exhibitions blending local and international artists, site-specific audio installation in the museum’s atrium, as well as Art & Wine workshops open for applications, all add to the highly interesting and enriching experience. Current information on all the upcoming events can be viewed at the museum’s website.QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 17, www.galum.hr.

Open 10:00-18:00; Thu 10:00-21:00; closed Mon. June 15 Sept 15. Admission 40.

Museum of Illusions The Museum of Illusions is an optical tour de force that’s a thrill for the whole family. In the heart of Splits’s old town, the museum is unique in this part of Europe. Trick your mind and your senses with an array of exhibitions that will change the way you see the world around you. Come take a tour of a place like no other. You won’t believe your eyes!QAndrija Kačić Miošić 2, tel. (+385 21) 48 00 14. Open 10:00-22:00. 50/70. Children under 5 years old: free, Family Ticket (2 adults + 2 children under 15 years old): 200,00 kn. J Summer 2022

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Weekend Getaways

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Weekend Getaways Brač - The Largest Dalmatian Island

Photo by Andreas Ahrens

Brač, the Croatian Adriatic’s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/ passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest.

If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia’s most famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It’s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people. It’s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you’d prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač’s north side.

There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač.

Jakšić Gallery Jakšić gallery is an exhibition space in Donji Humac on the island of Brač. The artistic family Jakšić has a 115 year long tradition in stone shaping. Their story begins in 1903 when their ancestor opened the first stone - carving workshop.

Dražen Jakšić, artistically educated, inherits a stone - carving workshop from his father and modernizes it according to time. Today Jakšić family consists of four members, all of whom are educated in the art, so it was necessary to create a space in which they can exhibit their works.

Jakšić gallery was built in 2008, in the yard of the family house, where their grandfather first exhibited his works. Beside the gallery are workshops and ateliers where it is possible to see the artists in work, as well as the process of creating works of art and stone shaping. In the gallery you can find: unique jewelery from semiprecious stones and silver made by fashion designer Ida Stipčić Jakšić, stone sculptures by the academic sculptor Lovre Jakšić, paintings by dr.art. Dina Jakšić Pavasović and various usable and decorative objects made of stone.QDonji Humac 75, Nerežišća, Brač island, tel. (+385-) 98 42 24 99, www.galerijajaksic.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; closed Sun. Sunday is by ap‑ pointment. A facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Weekend Getaways

Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0) 21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

www.dalmatia.hr

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info@dalmatia.hr

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Weekend Getaways Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća. The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It’s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic.

Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It’s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible – a tort lawyer’s dream.

There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They’re located between Supetar and Donji Humac.

Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you wouldn’t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.

Via Brattia Via Brattia, a 140 km-long hiking trail, encircles almost the entire island of Brač making it an exquisite tourist attraction.

The trail connects the 12 most attractive historical locations and some of the most picturesque places on the island, challenging the recreationists and mountaineers who can collect stamps at each of the 12 points. The trail passes through the center of Supetar, Mirac, Sutivan, Bobovišćanamoru, Ložišća, Milna, Murvica, Bol, Sumartin, Povlja, Pučišća, Postira, Škrip, and some of the island’s most beautiful beaches and bays (Zlatni rat, Farska, Murvica, Lovrečina, Smrka, etc.)

Since the trail is circular, it is marked both ways and you can start your hike from any of the above-mentioned settlements, simply by following the blue-white blazes.

If you decide to do the whole trail, it would be wise to plan a sleepover at some of the small towns on the map, where you can stock up on water and food supply. There is a map of the trail that will come in handy for all who decide to take up the challenge. Find the route map in the tourist information centers of the island of Brač.

Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its fair distance from the mainland. However, it’s an excellent place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms.

The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, don’t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito’s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the ancient city.

Komiža, Photo by Miha Arh Lukas Kastner, Shutterstock

Located on the Island of Biševo, the Blue Cave is an amazing natural phenomena. The interior of the cave and the sea below are a silver-blue colour. Rays of sun peak through a crack in the cave, which reflect into the sea and create beautiful light effects on top of the water. It’s only a 15 min drive by speedboat from Komiža, a coastal town on the western coast of the Island of Vis.

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Blaca - Amazing Hermitage

Šolta - Croatia’s Eco Paradise

Blaca is perhaps the most stunning sight on the Brač, and is certainly among the most incredible cultural monuments on the Adriatic. This inhospitable rocky gorge became the home of an order of Glagolitic monks who nurtured the Croatian language using the oldest Slavic alphabet. In 2007, the complex was entered on the tentative list of UNESCO monuments of cultural heritage. The hermitage remains very close to peoples’ hearts, with a pilgrimage taking place every year on the first Saturday after the Feast of the Assumption. This is a wonderful place to visit, this is a place that puts in focus the power of human endeavour, and a place of peace and hope that strengthens the spirit. How to get here: trips are organised from Bol approaching Blaca bay from the sea, from where you have a 25 minute walk. From Nerežišća it’s a 10 minute drive to Dragovode followed by a 30 minute walk. It is a must that you bring sports attire and water to keep you hydrated.QBrač, tel. (+385-) 091 516 46 71, www.czk-brac.hr. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 40/10kn.

Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life has been largely maintained to the present day. This means that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish. The island’s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning and returning with the day’s catch, which is then prepared for the evening’s meal and accompanied by some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well. The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island’s other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a short stay. Either way, there’s something for everyone.

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Weekend Getaways Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and on its southernsouth-western coast there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, Zečevo and Duga.

Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected.

You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city. If you’re a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska).

Gdinj, Hvar, Photo by Klemen Lorber

Riding a bike across the fertile plain between Stari Grad and Jelsa on the island of Hvar you might be forgiven for thinking that the local vineyards, olive plantations and dry-stone walls represent a typical Adriatic landscape of great beauty but not necessarily any great significance. In fact the pattern of field divisions - and many of the stones that make up the partitions - date back to the fourth century BC, when Stari Grad was colonized by Greeks from Vis. Known in Greek as the Hora, this intensively farmed plain has changed little in the intervening centuries, and was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008 in recognition of its historical importance. Remains of a Greek tower have been found on Maslinovik hill, and the remnants of Roman-era country villas are scattered across the plain. You might not spot any of these as you pass, but the timeless landscape of agricultural toil is enough to give you a strong impression of Mediterranean culture and its centuries-long continuity.

Starigrad, Hvar, Photo by Geio Tischler-Unsplash

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Weekend Getaways Trogir - World Heritage Site

Solin - Take a Trip to the Ancient Times

Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of which have been built upon by a progression of generations during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir’s old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.

Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the city finally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.

While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the city’s old town. Of particular importance are the churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke’s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240.

The cultural and historical significance of the town and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir’s history. While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the city’s development will almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia’s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world.

Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity’s early history. According to the Bible, Paul’s student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town’s role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of “Croatia’s Pompeii”.

Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations exposing the remains of the former Roman town located nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you’re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly off the beaten path.

Kaštela - 7 Small Villages

One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with the A - 1 highway. Partially restored and now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and soak in the great views in every direction. There is a café right below the fortress.

Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area but never succeeding in taking the fortress. The Ottoman Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland.

Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the south, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as ‘Kaštela’ (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing to (Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Kambelovac, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Novi, Kaštel Štafilić). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out their interesting architectural features. Of particular interest is the newly built Marina Kaštela which accommodates private and charter boats. In Kaštel Sućurac, sits the oldest defensive fortress which was built in 1392 by the Archbishop of Split A. Gvaldo. In Kaštel Gomilica in front of the church, there is an oak tree over 700 years old, under which, according to the legend, Croatian king Zvonimir rested. And that’s just the beginning. All are accessible by car.

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Klis - Game of Thrones Fortress

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Weekend Getaways

Omiš - Croatia’s Adventure Capital Originating in the Dinara mountain range, at the border of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the River Cetina winds a tortuous course through the countryside until it finally empties into the Adriatic. The mouth of the river passes through an impressive gorge near the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and picturesque town that is the centre of what has become known as “the Omiš Riviera”.

However, things were not always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš, who patrolled the waters in the area in special boats called “arrows”, so named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily into the mouth of the river.

While it’s true that today yachts are more likely to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fast-traveling pirate ships, there’s still plenty of adventure to be had in Omiš. The mountainous areas around the town make for great hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline blue, and the history of the town can be explored in the remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of Omiš used to defend the town against attacks from Turkish invaders), churches and other structures dating back as far as the 13th century. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

In Omiš there are eight famous churches. Three are located within the old city walls and include the church of St. Michael, the Church of the Holy Ghost and the Church of St. Rocco. The remaining churches are located outside of the old city walls and include the Church of St. Peter, the Church of St. Luke and the Church of St. Mary, located at the old Omiš cemetery. The Church of Our Lady of Carmel is at the Franciscan Monastery and the remains of the Church of St. John in Borak. The Fortress (Tvrđava) is located on top of Dinara and offers an enchanting view of the entire area, from the canyon of the Cetina to the islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta, to the Dalmatian region of Poljica.

And when you’re finished exploring the natural beauty of Omiš and its history, the town’s central location makes it a perfect starting point for the rest of your coastal adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of terrorising the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš.

There is no shortage of activities available across the region. Dugi Rat tourist board have a comprehensive website to keep you appraised of everything going on, from what beaches suit your needs, to diving classes and diving tours, to more adventurous activities such as paragliding. Just make sure you’re wearing suitable footwear and that you’re carrying water.

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Weekend Getaways Cetina river canyon Thanks to this position at the mouth of the Cetina, Omiš and the nearby villages offer many activities which can turn your holiday into an unforgettable adventure. One of these is rafting on the Cetina. If you are a swimmer, experienced skippers will help you negotiate the rapids and you’ll feel as though you’re flying along in the dinghy. Rafting trips start from the Pavić bridge, which was built during the time of the Emperor Franz Joseph. A speciality of this region is fried frogs’ legs wrapped in slices of prosciutto and cooked in red wine with rosemary. There’s also poljički soparnik which is a listed item of cultural heritage. You can try some of these specialities at the Radmanove Mlinice day trip site in the Cetina river canyon (6km from Omiš).

Podstrana - Nature & Wildlife Podstrana is a small tourist town located 8km from Split. It’s well-known for its beautiful beaches, which stretch along a 9km coastline making it an attractive location to visit. Along with its sandy and pebble beaches, olive orchards, vineyards and numerous peach trees create a beautiful Mediterranean town. The first settlements in this area can be traced back to the ancient Roman settlement Pituntium.

The turbulent history of this area, of the Greek, Roman and Turkish invasions, can be seen from the numerous archaeological excavations and the remains of buildings and monuments from the different time periods. Historical monuments, such as the Church of St. George, the Castle of Cindro and the Statue of St. Anthony of Padua from the 18th century, are still standing today in between the various hotels and apartments.

Omiš Tourist Board Archives

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Weekend Getaways

Sinj - The Heart of Dalmatian Inland

Vranjača Cave - Pearls of the Karst Landscape

Thirty-five kilometres inland from Split, the easy-going town of Sinj is the ideal place from which to explore this bewitching landscape. Sprawled across a fertile green carpet of rich agricultural land known as the Sinj Field (Sinjsko polje), the town is surrounded by the stark majesty of grey-brown highlands; while the furrowed gorges carved out of lime stone by the Cetina River lie only a short distance to the south and east. Whether you are into hiking, biking, fishing or simply looking, it’s an exhilarating place to be.

The Vranjača cave is made up of two chambers. The first, the existence of which was already known in the 19th century, has no stalactites. The second was discovered in 1903

by Stipe Punda, who was the owner of this plot of land.

This part consists of a system of nine smaller chambers in colours ranging from green through blue, some of which shimmer due to the presence of crystals. The cave is about 360m long and is at a constant temperature of 15ºC all year round. Vranjača is suitable for visits by tourists, with steps, rope handrails, walkways and lighting. It is supervised and has a car park. The cave is well visited by day trippers from Split and nature lovers from all over.

The cave, Vranjača, is located in the foothills of the central part of Mosor, on the northern side. If you are coming from Split then take the paved road through Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in the hamlet Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m path to the entrance of the cave.

The cave is open from April 1st to 1st November, 09:00 - 20:00 (June, July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (May, September), 10:00 - 18:00 (April, October) and by prior arrangement (November - March). Guided tours, which last about 1 hour, are available in English, and cost 40kn for adults and 20kn for children. Please call (+385) 098 74 90 00 for more information.Q50kn/20kn.

Sinj Tourist Board Archives

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Weekend Getaways

The famous battle of 1715 is celebrated every year by the test of horsemanship known as the Sinjska Alka, when riders attempt to spear a dangling talismanic disk in front of large crowds over a weekend in early August. Descended from age-old equine competitions and featuring brightly-clad participants in distinctive traditional costume, the Alka is a key component in Croatian national identity and comes under the protection of the UNESCO World Heritage list. Best place to learn about the Alka is at the award-winning Sinjska Alka Museum, an engaging mixture of traditional exhibits and modern multimedia presentation.

Photo by Ilija Veselica

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Weekend Getaways Makarska - Discover the Most Beautiful Beaches The Makarska Riviera is famous for its wonderful beaches, some of which are several kilometres long. The beaches are usually shingle or pebble smoothed by the sea into rounded shapes which are comfortable to lie and walk on. The white beaches fringed by thick pine forests and the refreshing crystal clear waters are among the main attractions of the Makarska Riviera. Here are some of the best of the beaches.

Leaving Split and heading south in the summertime is like leaving a buzzing hive of culture and heading for a great long stretch of pure hedonism.

If you take the scenic route, the coast road hugs white pebble beaches lapped by alluring turquoise waters, attracting sun-worshippers like bees to sugar water.

You’ll pass through Omiš, once the stronghold of renowned pirates, a delightful old town where the River Cetina plunges through a spectacular canyon into the sea.

Travelling south, you pass a string of villages, some old, some new, all today magnets for tourists. Finally, at Brela a straight stretch of coastline starts, 53km long, under the looming hulk of the Biokovo mountains. This is the Makarska Riviera, and this is where you’ll find some of the most photographed, most famous and most prized beach resorts on the Adriatic.

This coastline basks on average in 2750 hours of sunshine per year. The sea is incredibly clear and inviting, with an average year-round temperature of 20˚C reaching summertime peaks of 23-27˚C. Apart from the sea and the sun, here you can enjoy healthy and appetising Mediterranean food such as fish and seafood, chard, tomatoes and olive oil. In high summer you can enjoy the luxury of ripe figs fresh from the tree; at other times sweets and liqueurs made with carob, grape, citrus fruits and cherries. And of course, there’s plenty of local wine.

Most resorts of the Makarska Riviera are not particularly old, although archaeological finds testify to life here since the Neolithic period. The coast spent long centuries under threat of invasion from seafaring invaders, so settlers built their village on high ground under the protective shoulders of the mountains.

After a strong earthquake in 1962 reduced many of these ancient homes to rubble, the villagers descended to start a new life beside the sparkling waters of the sea. The building of hotels started in a big way, and this became one of the most popular and attractive spots for holidaymakers in Europe.

Brela Tourist Board Archives

In recent times the realisation has dawned as to what was lost when those villages were abandoned: they are in fact a treasure trove of folk culture. All in stone and in spectacular mountain settings, they have great architectural and ethnological value. The village way of life was synonymous with music and dance, textiles and crafts - not to mention agriculture and food. A number of traditional konobe (taverns) are now open offering great hospitality and authentic Dalmatian cuisine.

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Biokovo, Photo by Tom Wheatley - Unsplash

Weekend Getaways The Biokovo Nature Park covers most of the mountain range and has a number of information centres and educational trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required to buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarska – Vrgorac road.

You can drive up there, but the best way to explore it is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple of precautions: the terrain is rugged – wear strong shoes or hiking boots. The summer heat and sun can be overwhelming: set off at sunrise, and take a hat, sun protection and plenty of water. Outside of the summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is forecast: the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force.

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COME. SEE. AND STAY ENCHANTED. As well as the villages in the immediate vicinity of the resorts in this guide, from Makarska it’s an easy ride to some larger places in the Dalmatian hinterland such as Zagvozd, Imotski (with its Red and Blue Lakes) and Vrgorac, famous for its seven towers built during the Ottoman wars, as well as the well-preserved historical village of Kokorići.

Take your pick. Tour the coast and find your perfect slice of heaven: a rocky cove or a stretch of perfect shingle. Take a trip inland and discover the age-old culture of the region. Take a hike to the highest peak of Biokovo and see Brač and Hvar islands lying peacefully at your feet. Hire a bike or indulge in a wealth of watersports. Summertime calls!

Skywalk Biokovo - Your Best View Put your moonboots back in your backpack, Luke: this ain’t no walk on the moon but a fantastic new way to enjoy hiking on one of Croatia’s most magnificent mountain ranges - Biokovo. Soaring skywards from the fringes of the turquoise Adriatic, Biokovo is the highest mountain range closest to the coast in the entire Mediterranean. An awe-inspiring sight, Biokovo lends the Makarska Riviera the interplay of blue sea, facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

sky and white stone that creates such a wonderful stage for those carefree seaside summers. However, the Biokovo Nature Park hides within it a wealth of natural and cultural treasures. A wonderful new viewing platform allowing you to experience the majesty of Biokovo was opened in July 2020 – the Skywalk. A horseshoe-shaped glass walkway juts out over a precipitous slope opening out towards the coast, affording breath-taking views. There is also a pillar showing a geological cross-section of the mountain with a legend showing the ages and types of stone. The Skywalk is right next to the Biokovo Nature Park Visitor Centre.

To get there, from Makarska take the road to Vrgorac; the Visitor Centre is 6 km away. Do be aware the road presents challenging driving conditions. Visit info for opening times and additional safety information.

A word of warning: it is easy to underestimate the challenges this mountain range presents. Do not head off for a trip into the mountains without hiking shoes, plenty of water, a map, sun protection, a mobile phone and clothing that will make it easy for rescue services to spot you if you get lost. Do not go alone.

In August 2020 an experienced hiker was saved after more than 20 days stranded on dangerous terrain; rescue services had lost all hope of finding him alive.

Stick to the designated paths!Qwww.pp-biokovo.hr/ en/skywalk-biokovo.

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The Blue Lake (Modro Jezero) and Red Lake (Crveno Jezero).

Both are situated in deep limestone depressions which fill with water during rainy periods and drain almost dry in especially hot summers.

Imotski, Shutterstock

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Shopping Arterija Style, appeal, and much to reveal! Arterija is a fashion design store that has become one of the cult-like boutiques when it comes to clothing, jewellery and accessories in Split. Owner Gorana Gulišija updates her collection regularly and she also promotes the works of some of Croatia’s best designers. Modern yet avant-garde, pop in for a visit as you just might find a surprise or two. Fashion with passion!QJ‑2, Majstora Jurija 17, tel. (+385-) 091 547 71 41. Open 10:00-22:00.

Atelier Perajica This fantastic little atelier is a wonderful place to get lost in your thoughts or to pick up something unique as a gift. Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three generations of photographers have kept their family studio here, amassing an unparalleled photo-documentary of Split nostalgic and modern.

The current owner Ana has some unusual creations including photos printed on canvas and fringed with handmade lace: voilà! Drinks mats! A functional keepsake that’s cool. There’s also a wonderful collection of photos of all sizes of Croatian artisan lace, including the UNESCO-listed agave lace made by nuns on Hvar island, and another featuring treasures from the deep such as sponges, seahorses and coral.QJ‑2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, www.atelierperajica.com. Open Sat 09:00-12:00; closed Sun. 09:00 - 15:00 and 17:00 - 20:00. A Break Time - Nautical Bracelets For an exceptional souvenir from Split you have to visit this jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and Ionut have come from abroad and followed their dream in creating handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets, key rings and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical icons such as mini anchors and compasses, all of which are waterproof. You’ve got to see to believe these great accessories! QI‑2, Trogirska 8, tel. (+385-) 091 55 90 367, www.nautical-bracelets.com. Open 10:00-22:00. A Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage. Also at Mihovilova širina 7 (Voćni trg).QI‑2,

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Krešimirova 11 (Peristil), tel. (+385-21) 58 25 28, www. croata.hr. Open 09:00-20:00. A Enoteka Terra A little piece of the Mediterranean with quality international and Croatian wines such as Pošip or Plavac mali, champagnes, rakija (grappa) and other Dalmatian gastronomic delicacies.

QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21) 31 48 00, www. vinoteka.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:30; closed Sun. A Jakšić Gallery The gallery is run by the Jakšić family, from Donji Humac, a village located on the island of Brač. The owner and father, Dražen, is a known stonemasonry, the mother Ida Stipčić Jakšić, a fashion designer, their son Lovre, an academic sculptor and their daughter Dina has a doctoral degree in arts. Their ancestors created the first stonemasonry workshop in 1903. The family trade was passed on from generation to generation and in 2008, this extraordinary family turned the ancient workshop into an art gallery, which includes both workshops and studios. Six years later they opened up a gallery in the center of Split. Their gallery contains unique silver jewelry created by Ida, sculptures using white Brač stone by Lovre and oil paintings by Dina.QD‑2, Bribirska 10, tel. (+385-) 098 70 19 03, www.galerijajaksic.com. Open 09:00-13:30, 16:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:30; closed Sun. A Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.

QD‑3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+385-21) 27 42 59, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00-20:00; Sun 08:00-13:00. A Jaman Art Centar Danijel Jaman is an academic painter from Split. His works can be seen in his gallery in Šubićeva 3 and the JAMAN art center at Dobrić 14. The design of the gallery brings in lots of natural light which aids in intensifying displayed images. The approach here is based on current trends in ‘New Pop-Art’ which focuses on using heightened colours when portraying subjects on pictures such as phones, NY registration plates, vinyl panels, chains…QI‑2, Dobrić 14, tel. (+385-21) 28 01 28/(+385-) 098 32 27 19, www.jaman-art.com. Open 10:00-23:00. A

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Shopping

Joker Centre Just a ten-minute walk on foot from Split’s Old Town, you can find a modern and fully equipped shopping center with more than a hundred of stores exclusively offering high-street fashion brands, children’s clothing and sportswear, footwear and equipment, a hypermarket, cinema, food court and other catering facilities, and a full range of services. In other words, anything you need, you can find shopping with us.QD‑1/2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 09/(+385-21) 39 69 10, www.joker.hr. Open 09:00-21:00. A Kruščić Are you picky about bread? Then just above the fish market sits a bread shop which serves baked bread without additives. They are also famous for replicating a type of Roman bread made of wheat, goat cheese and honey.QI‑2, Obrov 6, tel. (+385-) 099 261 23 45. Open 08:00-14:00; closed Sun. N­J Moments Wine and Fine Shop Looking for a bottle of high-quality Croatian wine to take home? Good luck resisting the temptation to open it, by the way, but Moments Wine and Fine is a great place to go looking for that most delicious of souvenirs. A long-time online seller, Moments finally have a brick and mortar location in town, and oenophiles are all the better for it. QKružićeva 2, tel. (+38521) 24 35 25, www.moments.hr/. Open 09:00-21:00.

Oleoteka Uje Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, ‘olive oil’. Also at (I-2) Šubićeva 6, Open 08:00 - 21:00.QJ‑2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, www.uje.hr. Open 08:00-21:00. A­J Paparella Gallery Yet another charming art gallery where all art lovers can find something to catch the eye, from paintings to lamps to small boat models…all decorated and created with a lot of love and taste.QJ‑2, Dominisova 7, tel. (+385-21) 78 54 21. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00.

Vinoteka Winebox The world is filled with magnificent wines, and every corner of the globe is represented on the shelves of Wine Box. These guys supply wine for yachts too, which should give you a good indication of the quality on offer, and the occasional tastings and events are always well-attended. QPapandopulova 13, tel. (+385) 099 548 81 96, www.vinolike.com/. Open 09:0008:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. A

Nadalina Original Croatian chocolate spreads, pralines and chocolate with extras flavours and nuts such as cinnamon, lavender or almonds are what makes these so special. And delicious, may we add!QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385-21) 35 53 84/(+385-) 091 210 88 89, www.nadalina.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-12:00; closed Sun. A Namfleg Watches & Jewelry Specialising in the cloisonné technique, this boutique has a workshop and furnace allowing you to see how the jewellery is worked into delicate metal compartments which are filled with vividly-coloured enamel powder and fired and polished to a glassy lustre. Split’s boutique has a special collection featuring motifs inspired by the city.QI‑2, Zadarska 4, Split, tel. (+385 - ) 91 150 80 18, www.namfleg.com/pages/split. Open 10:0022:00. A­J 44 Summer 2022

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Arrival & Getting Around BY boat Split’s ferry port isn’t a bad place to make the transition from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see policemen strolling around, don’t be disturbed: those are just the customs officers that work at the office located in the port. The toilet near the back of the port operates around the clock. Changing currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station.

Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you’ll reach the old town in about five minutes.

Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something like this: 45 - 60kn per person and 180 - 590 kn for cars. Motorcycles will cost you 112 - 147 kn and bicycles 45 - 62kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little life vest.

The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about two and a half hours. On all ferries, you’ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Šolta by ferries (will take cars) or catamarans (foot passengers only). Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 05:30-00:00. From July Open 00:00 - 24:00.

Kapetan Luka, Krilo Krilo catamaran running to Vis island and Dubrovnik via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet. Check sailing schedule here.QGat Sv Petra, tel. (+385-21) 64 54 76, www.krilo.hr. Open 06:0021:00. J

By bus Split’s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 - 24:00) 4kn can be found inside the station, along with the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers a twenty-four hour service and the information desk operates from 00:00 - 24:00. The international ticket office operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the bus station.

Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sickness-inducing but aestheticallypleasing old roads, which can affect the length of your trip.

QJ‑3, Obala kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/ (+385-21) 32 91 99, www.ak-split.hr.

By plane In July of 2019, the Split Airport officially opened its new passenger terminal with an additional surface area of 35,000 square meters.Credit has been given to its fascinating design with most attention drawn to the wooden dome ceiling in one part and its inversion in another, 3D at its best. There are 30 new checkin counters, 6 new gates to enter airplanes, 1200 waiting seats, catering facilities, new duty free, 5 carousels, 900 car parking spaces, and more. Airport officials project an 8 to 10% rise in passengers from last year’s 3.1 million visitors.

Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Pleso prijevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the trip. (00385 (0)21 89 52 37). Public bus No 37 or 38 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 25 kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Pleso prijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old town for 35kn.

Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka SplitKaštela) Split’s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is open from 05:00 - 23:00. Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from the main hall.

Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling Summer 2022

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Arrival & Getting Around home: You can purchase a phone card at the newsstand (open according to flight times). There are public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the men’s and women’s toilets.

Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Pleso prijevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No 37 or 38 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 25 kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Pleso prijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old town for 35kn.QCesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 20 35 07/(+385-21) 20 35 08, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, www.split-airport.hr.

By train The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the station’s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station.

Main train station Frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about eight hours. If you happen to be leaving on a night train from Zagreb at 23:05 or a night train from Split at 21:40, there’s one more really handy service offered at the train statio n. If you have a car and don’t feel like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 101kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket. You can buy tickets online at prodaja.hzpp.hr or via the HŽPP KARTE mobile application.QJ‑3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.hzpp.hr.

Open 06:10-21:40.

Parking There are four parking zones and prices range from 4 – 6kn/ hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking is payable from Mon - Fri 06:30 – 21:30, Sat 07:00 - 14:00 and in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from Mon - Fri 07:00 – 19:00, Sat 07:00 14:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price.

However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket when you’re supposed to have one you might catch a fine of 90kn (Zone 1), 60kn (Zone 2, 3) and 36kn (Zone 4).

Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 5 to 10kn depending on your proximity to the centre. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

So, if you’re parking near the Riva, you can bet on a maximum 25kn charge for the first hour and 20 kn per hour there after.

Most of the lots operate around the clock.

Promet Split QD‑2, Ruđera Boškovića 28, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, www. promet-split.hr.

Public bikes During the hot summer days, the best way to zip through city traffic is on two wheels. The system of public city bicycles is present in the city of Split, and the public bicycle rental service is available to registered users all day, every day. Download the Nextbike app via your mobile phone and register.Fees are charged from a valid credit or debit card (Mastercard, VISA, Diners, American Express). Pay as you go, 5.00 kn / 30 min for classic bicycles and 10.00 kn / 30 min for electric bicycles Weekly subscription 100.00 kn / 7 days with an unlimited number of free rides up to 30 minutes for 1 bike. Annual subscription 200.00 kn / 365 days with an unlimited number of free rides up to 30 minutes for 1 bike.Take advantage of an annual subscription, with benefits across 30 towns and cities in Croatia and 250 worldwide.

Customer support you can get on +385 (1) 777 65 34.

Public transport There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run from 05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40) running Fridays and Saturdays only. Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 11 - 21kn (depends on the zone you are buying for) or from Promet Split kiosks near each bus stop for 9kn - 21kn. If you’re trying to beat the system and chance it without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport, and other destinations outside of Split. Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates from 06:30 to 20:00, on weekdays 06:30 - 12:30 on Sat and is cls to Sun. To contact the Sukoišanska station dial (+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services call (+385-21) 40 79 01.

Promet Split QE‑1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-21) 40 78 88, www. promet-split.hr.

Taxi The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial +385 (0) 21 47 37 37.

The starting fee for a taxi trip is 20kn, with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 3kn added per each piece of luggage and 100kn per hour for waiting. There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva.

Summer 2022

47

A

1

Split Map Legend Info Centre

Market

Church

Bus Station

Official Building

Train Station

Museum

Ferry Line

Theatre

Post Office

Gallery

Parking

Beach

Public Toilet

Park

Monument

Panoramic View

2

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