Zagreb In Your Pocket - Summer / Autumn 2022

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Zagreb Summer / Autumn 2022

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Contents ON THE COVER

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Best Instagram Spots in Rijeka

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Cultural experiences What’s On

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Can’t Get Enough of...Štrukli Sightseeing

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Restaurants Sightseeing

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Top 5 Experiences in Rijeka Restaurants

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Coffee & CakesTreasure Hunt Underground in Turopolje Hanging out Coffee & Cakes Shopping Hangin’ Out Weekend Getaways Shopping Arrival & Getting Around The Street Great index Escape

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Arrival Maps & Getting Around

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City centre map

Maps City map

City centre map City map

As the winter winds give way to the, well, warmer winds of spring and summer, Rijeka’s renaissance shows no sign of abating. It has been a whirlwind few years for Croatia’s biggest port, and development across town has dragged beauty and energy out of previously neglected facades. Sure, the whole pandemic We’re alwaysa massive happy tospanner see theinto back summer, so wehardy can thing threw theofworks, but we’re bust out and our things excellent T-shirt andasenjoy long folks here, continue to collection move forward we look towalks around thisofmost of cities.to co-opt a phrase wards the summer 2022.beautiful Without wanting from previous generations, Rijeka is happening, man. Yeah, we’ll To cut a long story short, that is arguably the best way to see ourselves out…Tie up the shoelaces and hit the paveenjoy the capital. ment, as much ground as possible in searchitofis Food iscovering at the centre of our attention in this issue, although cosy cafes, innovative restaurants, thrilling pivnicas and probably fair to say thatthat foodhouse is at thequite centrepossibly of our attention all Cannabis Museums the most day long. When it tastes good,across how could it notlong be? Jump beautiful displays we’vethiscome in a very time. straight our special food feature andthere get toand know of Yes, youtoread that correctly.

Head seethe forbest yourthe best when it comes to local delicacies before heading to the self. nearest tavern or restaurant to eat your body weight in magnifiFood centre stagewarn in this cence. takes Don’t say we didn’t you. issue of Zagreb In Your Pocket, as we look to shine a light on the many traditions we have it comes to stuffing our architecture faces with Elsewhere, Rijeka’when s classic combination of elegant delectable dishes.

Throw in a as handful newwith restaurants and bubbling creativity remains alive asofever, ideas the and classic offer that makes this place and mainthe subject of conversation in bars and cafessoinspecial town. 2022 you’ve got yourself a tremendous destination.

Zagreb, is shaping up to be a big year for Rijeka, and we hope you volimo te. As always, we’re happy to hear all feedback, be ride. Asthe always, we appreciate any and all feedback, itenjoy sentthe through old-fashioned method of email, social be it through email, social media, carrier pigeon, or given at media, or during deep discussions on one of those aforehalf-speed mid-food coma.Ambling We weren’t with ‘body mentioned long strolls. andjoking talking is that a darling weight’ comment, byall. the way… combination, after

Foreword

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This year’s magnificent cover was made in collaboration with Marko Babić, otherwise known as Artplakata. What is Artplakata? A tremendously creative love letter to the neglected aspects of daily life in our cities, that’s what. Artplakata aims to breathe new life into ignored pieces of architecture and the rest through art, and we’re happy to say that Artplakata more than succeeds.

Photo: Marko Babić

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1845-5514 Company Office & Accounts Publisher Višnja Arambašić Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb Rijeka In Your Pocket, Paška 37, Zagreb, Croatia ISSN 1334-9228 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Company Office & AccountsMi-ni d.o.o.

Accounting Management Company Office & Accounts Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Croatia In Your Pocket, Paška 37,Nedelja Zagreb, Croatia

zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Editorial Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Editor Arambašić PrintedVišnja

by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Contributors Jonathan Bousfield, John William Bills Editorial Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Editor Višnja Arambašić Design Ivana Mihoković AssistantMOONTAGE, Editor Kristina Štimac Contributors Nataly Photography RijekaAnderson-Marinović, In Your Pocket teamIvana unlessKovačić, otherwise stated Lee Murphy, Jonathan Bousfield, John William Bills Cover Marko Babić, Artplakata Design Moontage, Ivana Mihoković Sales & Circulation Manager Vukičevićstated Photography In Your Pocket teamKristijan unless otherwise Cover © Marko Artplakata Support Sales Babić, Kristina Štimac Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Kristina Štimac,

Višnja Arambašić Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copCopyright notice yright cartographer.

Allcopyright rights reserved.

No partd.o.o. of this publicaText, maps and photos Plava ponistra Maps copytion be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the rightmay cartographer.

All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for publishthe purpurpose of review, without written permission from the pose review, without permission thePocket publisher and er andof copyright owner.written The brand namefrom In Your is used copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under liunder license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, cense from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel.

Lithuania tel.29 (+370-5) 212(Croatia) 29 76).InRijeka (Croatia) In Your Pocket (+370-5) 212 76). Zadar Your Pocket is not responsible fornot anyresponsible informationforwhich might change aftermight publication. is any information which changePlease after check with the eventcheck organisers if in event doubt.organisers if in doubt. publication.

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Summer / Summer Autumn 2022

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Truly unforgettable

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Summer is here and Zagreb is swarming with a feast of cultural, musical, art and quirky pop-up events. So, slap on the sunscreen and get your sandals out to join in some great outdoor adventures and many exciting exhibitions and concerts.

Cultural experiences

Let’s absorb some vitamin D and enjoy theseamazing and epic summer experiences that will stretch well into autumn season!

Concerts Some big names in the world of music are coming to Zagreb for this season. The headbangers will be thrilled to see Opeth (26.9), the Swedish metal giants performing at the Culture Factory (Tvornica Kulture), while the fans of the French metal attraction Gojira (30.7) will enjoy the progressively crunchy riffs at the Sports Hall (Dom Sportova) in Zagreb.

Musical classics Whitesnake are taking up the stage of Šalata (2.7.), a great outdoor venue overlooking the city. They are joining the heavy sound machinery, though in their own style, with somewhat softer tunes than the metal icons, mentioned previously.

As part of their final tour, appropriately named ‘End of the Road’, the rock’n’roll legends KISS (9.7.) are also visiting the Croatian capital. To see a band that has sold more than 100 million albums, is anexperience not to be missed.

Those into more subtle musical genres should definitely consider Pixies (27.8), the alternative American band that is making its way back to Europe, hitting different cities this summer.

For good old-fashioned blue-collar rock, get tickets for the Culture Factory to see Clutch (25.11.), the American musicians known for their legendary shows.

And last, but not least, two giants of the musical world, both from England, The Cure (27.10.) and Stingwho perform in Arena Zagreb on separate dates, will surely provide the biggest concert fix this season. More than four decades of performances and many successful albums through the years, have rightfully reservedthese superstars a special place in the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.

Fans of the Curewill also have a chance to hear material from the band’s long-awaited new album tobe released in Autumn.

Summer 2022 concerts are definitely ready to roll out this year! facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

A gifted songwriter and dazzlingly singular singer, the mom of three teenagers has been overturning fan expectation and industry formula since kicking off her music career with her debut 2000 CD, On How Life Is. Promoting the new album “The Reset”, Macy Gray will hold a concert at the Tvornica kulture on October 29.

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Photo by Macy Gray Promo

Cultural experiences

Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan, Mali piknik Archive

Street Life During the sunniest of seasons, Zagreb streets will be showcasing some of the best summer festivals in the city. Not only can you expect great street performances, pop up events and gigs, but also you will enjoy alfresco bites and sips in some of the city’s loveliest green spots.

By strolling down the Old Town’s streets, you will meet our historical Zagreb characters in period costumes, and if you listen carefully, you might hear the approaching drums of the Croatian Regiment (30.7.), promoting Croatia as the birthplace of the cravatin the 17th century.

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Zagreb In Your Pocket

Until July 17, The Art Park Project returns to Zagreb with a circus theme. In Ribnjak, one of the most beautiful green oases of the city, visitors will enjoy a vibrant atmosphere for a whole month.At approximately the same time, the Upper Town Courtyards Dvorišta (13.24.7.) will open their gates for visitors eager to explore their secrets.

The Old Town is definitely a place to be this summer. Once again, it is hosting Little Picnic Mali piknik (22,29.7 &12.8.) which will liven up some of the most romantic Old Town locations.

Spread your blanket, take off your shoes and enjoy the view over the city in the fantastic historical ambience.

Another park is coming to life this summer. Booksa Club&Cafeis moving its activities to the park outside. Booksa in the Park welcomes summer with a morning coffee spiced up bythe latest poetry collections, dynamic literary conversations and evening musical treats.

Croatia is very rich in folklore and this year’s largest folklore festival event in Zagreb brings together the folklore groups from Croatia and abroad, with concerts, ethnographic exhibitions and presentations of traditional crafts.

A crescendo of street life iscoming once again in the form of C’est is the Best (17 - 21.8.), a street festival that has been synonymous with summer in Zagreb, for the last quarter of the century. This is the time when Zagreb streets and squares turn into one huge open-air stage, thus bonding all generations through musical and street performances.

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Cultural experiences Movie Night This year, Zagreb’s thriving creative scene brings a whole host of film festivals and screenings to the city. From major international festivals to mini retrospectives, Zagreb hosts exciting film festivals and events all year round. Among these, Zagreb Film Festival (23 - 30.10) is definitely the central and most visited one. Held every autumn and visited by many film lovers, it presents the best of recent international and domestic film production.

Another popular film festival originally held in Motovun, Istria, continues with screenings in other Croatian cities at the end of July. Zagreb traditionally hosts the best films of the Motovun festival at Lauba, the House for People and Art. Film lovers will thus have a chance to enjoy films shown at one of Croatia’s most important film festivals, particularly those that won the vote of the jury for film expertise, as well as the hearts of the audience.

Mark your calendar for the summer evenings at the Tuškanac Summer Stage, a place to enjoy the movies in the most beautiful outdoor cinema in Zagreb. This year again, the summer film menu features various attractions, from recent blockbusters to excellent outtakes from the renowned Croatian film festivals.

Don’t forget to re-visit the Tuškanac Summer Stage to attend the showings of the first and largest festival of fantastic genre cinema in the region. The 12th Fantastic Zagreb Film Festival (30.6 - 10.7.) has many SciFi, Horror, Fantasy, Thriller, Dark Comedy, Animation, Action and Adventure films up its sleeve. All fans of these genres will enjoy munchies and drinks while watching the incredible and spectacular outdoor screenings at the Tuškanac Summer Stage.

Animafest facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Archive

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Cultural experiences

Art & Design If you are curious to see how virtual patterns of behaviour such as seeing, ghosting, stalking, liking and swiping affect contemporary relationships, then plan a visit to the International Photography Festival at the Museum of Contemporary Art as well as two other galleries in the city centre.

Titled ‘No Tears to Cry’, the 12th edition of Organ Vida Festival (29.6. 28.8.) is dedicated to exploring the various manifestations of feelings such as apathy or anxiety in contemporary society.

This summer, Contemporary Art Museum also showcases the Infeld Travelling Collection which features the works of 38 artists from the first half of the 20th century to the present. The exhibition entitled, ‘Not a Dream, just an Experience’ includes art brut masters as well as the works bordering between naïve art and revolt against the petty bourgeoisie, collected by the Infeld family from Austria.

Photography lovers have another treat for this summer. An exhibition of photographs by Mato Kaić (until 4.9.), one of the first amateur photographers in Bosnia and Herzegovina at the turn of the last century will give us an insight into the historical events, vanished customs, landscapes and architecture of cities in those days.

Lauba, House for People and Art is proudly announcing the re-exhibition of one of our most prominent Croatian artists, Ivana Franke. This artist with a Berlin address is a maestro of magnificent and intriguing spatial installations.

Meanwhile, design aficionados are counting the days until the Zagreb Design Week which opens in September. This annual event celebrates Zagreb as a creative hub through exhibitions, lectures, panels and workshops, all of which promote design as inevitable part of contemporary society. Another September event not to be missed is Art Zagreb (17 - 20.9.), an annual international contemporary art fair. While focusing only on contemporary art and living artists, it is a great meeting place for artists, collectors, gallerists, curators and art lovers in general.

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Organ Vida International Photography Festival - Viviane Sassen, Venera and Merkur

An encounter with art in hidden streets, forgotten passages and lush canopies of Zagreb parks and Upper Town corners will come to life through the fourth edition of the ‘Around’ (Okolo) project (20 - 30.8.)

A treat awaits those who love the art of sculpture. They will be thrilled to have an opportunity to visit the Triennial of Croatian Sculpture (5.7.

- 28.8.) at Zagreb’s Glyphtotheque and various other locations in the city where sculptures will be displayed in public areas.

‘Transformation of Wood’ is a title of another interesting exhibition at National Museum of Modern Art, which emphasizes our relationship and attitude towards nature and the importance of trees and forests for our future survival.

Celebrate summer, welcome autumn, enjoy Zagreb!

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Cultural experiences

Classical Music Grič Evenings (1 - 29.7.), the oldest and the most popular of Zagreb’s summer celebration of classical music, is traditionally held in the Atrium of the Klovićevi Dvori this July. The event features a series of open-air concerts – true bliss for the many classical music lovers.

One of the loveliest Downtown squares will also positively explode with musical and ballet performances outside the Croatian National Theatre. All visitors and passers-by are invited to pause and enjoy the stunning performances by the Croatian Theatre ensembles, free of charge. From October onwards, tickets to all the theatrical performances can be purchased at the box office inside the Theatre.

Apart from the Croatian National Theatre, the main venue for these classical concerts in Zagreb is the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall which has been synonymous with the finest musical performances for almost half a century. Make sure to secure your tickets on-line or directly at the box offices.

The end of summer will be crowned with the huge performance of 2 CELLOS (19.9.), the world renowned Croatian cellist duo consisting of classically trained cellists. After ten years as 2CELLOS and five studio albums as well as many performances around the world, Luka Šulić and Stjepan Hauser announced that their last performance will be in Zagreb, as part of their world tour. Truly, this is not an event to missed!

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Cultural experiences Don’t Leave the Kids at Home Looking for fun things to do with your children in Zagreb?

Vibrant colours, children’s smiles and laughter will reverberate this summer in the new green oasis of the ZGodionica festival (26.8. - 11.9.) at Bundek lake.

ZGodionica will again offer educational recreational activities and introduction to new creativities. Coaches and club members will be happy to introduce children to the basics of different sports and encourage them toplay softball, squash or try crossfit, all in beautiful natural surroundings.

Forkids of all age groups, PIF (16 22.9.) (International Puppet Festival) is definitely THE place to be. The plays performed by puppeteers from all over the world will be held in numerous theatre halls, as well as in the streets and squares of Zagreb.

Another event not to be missed is Mali Zagreb (7.5 - 30.9.), which will presenta series of miniature installations which await discovery by perceptive passers-by on the pulsating streets of Zagreb. Grab a map at the Tourist Centre and follow the clues to eleven attractive locations in the city.

To round up your summer activities, include a visit to the Travno Film Festival which has screenings of many exciting cartoons for the young onesand everyone who has retained a child spirit within.Most kids, and adults who rejoice in their own childhood memories of cartoons,love this light entertainment. It is great way to immerse in the summer vibes and for a while forget about mundane obligations.

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Kozmodrum MIMO Archive

Ida Buchmann, MSU Archive

Jazz in the City In these places you can always find a good jazz concert in town.

Močvara offers Jazz concerts twice a month, be sure to check out their website mocvara.com for exact dates and times, and you can also buy tickets online.On Wednesdays, the Sax club offers the New Croatian Jazz concert programme and admission is free.

KCM in Mesnička Street offers jazz sessions usually on Thursdays, so stop by.

In the Zagreb Jazz cycle at the Museum of Contemporary Art on October 19, you can listen to Nikolina Nika Kovačević, (vocals): RomaJazz; on November 9 comes PEZNT, music producer, DJ. You can get tickets for 50 HRK.

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DIANA KRALL The Great Escape

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VATROSLAV LISINSKI CONCERT HALL ZAGREB

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Sightseeing Essential Zagreb Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

Dolac (Dolac Market) Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.QC‑2, Dolac 9.

Funicular Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 5kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30-22:00. 5 kn, children up to 7 years free.

Lenuci’s Horseshoe (Lenucijeva potkova) A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Republike Hrvatske with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore 12 Zagreb In Your Pocket

and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.QB/C‑3/4. J Mirogoj Cemetery Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park.

Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Aleja Hermanna Bollea 27.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-ofarms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.QC‑1, Kamenita ulica.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja) A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Visit the Chocolate Museum Zagreb and try 9 varieties of chocolate.

Two minutes walking distance from the Josip Jelačić Square.

Muzej čokolade Zagreb, Varšavska 5, 1st floor www.muzejcokolade.hr next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off.

It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Zagreb Cathedral is currently closed due to damage caused by the earthquake which hit the Zagreb area on 22 March 2020. At the moment you can only view it from the outside.QC‑1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27.

The Lotrščak Tower and Grič cannon (Kula Lotrščak i Grički top) If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion. Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the same tower ever since.

Sited in the upper town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmay‑ facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

erovo šetalište 9, www.gkd.hr/kula-lotrscak/. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admis‑ sion 20/10 kn. J Zagreb’s Solar System Ever wondered what the great big metal ball on Bogovićeva street is? It’s, of course The Sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004, Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty sun at the following locations throughout the city: Mercury (Margaretska 3), Venus (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3), Earth (Varšavska 9), Mars (Tkalčićeva 21), Jupiter (Voćarska 71), Saturn (Račićeva 1), Uranus (Siget 9), Neptune (Kozari put), Pluto (Aleja Bologne - underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006.

Zagreb Welcomes You - Model City Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, the entire piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača. J. Summer / Autumn 2022

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Sightseeing Museums & Galleries Cannabis Museum Zagreb First things first, the displays in Zagreb’s first-ever Cannabis Museum are absolutely beautiful. Seriously, they might be the most beautiful displays we’ve seen in years. The museum itself is a fantastically fascinating romp through the history of cannabis around the world, with special attention paid to Croatia along the way. Learn how this famous plant is cultivated and the influence it has had on human culture since, well, the beginning of time. Those displays though, are gorgeous. QD‑3, Petrinjska 59, www.cannabismuseum.hr/. Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. 50kn/40kn. A Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and photography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as well as free wi-fi connection. Except for interactive exhibitions interesting to children that are worth seeing and the children’s corner activities, kids will surely go for the slide (does not work if it is raining). QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/15 kn. Entry is free every first Wednesday of the month. U Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović) Croatian sensation Dražen Petrović (1964–1993), nicknamed“basketball’s Mozart”, is Europe’s greatest ever basketball export and is considered to have sparked a wave of European players who went to play in the American NBA. As well as playing for Zagreb’s Cibona club, for Real Madrid and the New Jersey Nets, Dražen was the winner of numerous medals at Olympic, European and World level. He tragically died in a traffic accident but his legacy is very much alive. This museum displays his medals, awards, personal items, letters and gifts from fans. A guided tour in English is available if you pre-book for a group of 15.Tram line 12,9,3,14,17,4,13. Admission to the museum is free for individual visits on June 7 and October 22.QA‑4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www. drazenpetrovic.net. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. Admission 30/10 kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour. QB‑3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr.

Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 15/40kn. T­U­J­6 14 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing Lauba – The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) Known as the House for People and Art, it has a collection of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhibitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and interaction!QH‑3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, fax (+385-1) 630 21 42, www.lauba.hr. Open 11:00-22:00. Admission 25/10 kn. T­U Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the most innovative European Museum.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, www.brokenships.com.

Open 10:00-21.00. Admission 40/30 kn.

Museum of Chocolate (Muzej čokolade) A sweet little secret in the heart of Zagreb, you can enjoy the Museum of Chocolate with all your senses.

At daily workshops,all age groups can enjoy learning the story of chocolate: where it comes from and how it is made. For grown-ups,themed workshops guide you through creating your own chocolately treats and learning to taste chocolate like a connoisseur. There are creative weekend workshops for children workshops, and chocolate summer camps for the luckiest little ones! QVaršavska 5, tel. (+385-1) 209 2966, www.muzejcokolade.hr/. Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. (last entry 19:00) Public holidays: please check opening times on (01) 2092 966. Ticket 45/65. Familly tickets 200kn. Each ticket purchased includes a sample box for chocolate tasting. J Museum of Illusions (Muzej iluzija) Test your perception at this amazing and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they should, and that is where the fun begins.

An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is about to test your very perception, or is it deception? Best of all, a transformation of the premises has just occurred with stereograms, illusion chairs and a kaleidoscope amongst the new features. Test your skills with amazing visual and sensory challenges open for all ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09/(+385-) 091 942 20 07, www.muzejiluzija. com. Open 09:00–22:00. Admission 60/40kn. Fam‑ ily ticket 130kn (includes two adults plus two small children). P­T­J­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Sightseeing Mushroom Museum (Muzej gljiva) Among the quirky Zagreb museums, the Mushroom Museum has one of the most extraordinary collections.

With 1600 authentic freeze-dried mushrooms on display, including dozens of newly discovered ones, this Fungi Temple is unique in the world. Why Mushrooms? Well, it is hard to imagine the world without them. They have been here from time immemorial. Without fungi, there would be no wine, beer or antibiotics. Mushrooms today are the superheroes helping us to save the planet. Sustainable materials from mushrooms, such as mycelium, mushroom coffee and food supplements, amazing mushroom shapes and names, and so much more can be found at the Mushroom Museum. Oh, and did you know that the largest living organism on Earth is a mushroom that lives in Oregon?

Explore the Museum to find out which one. QSplavnica ulica 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 95 28. Open Wed 13:00-19:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. Admis‑ sion 20 kn. J Zagreb Tourist Board Archives

National Museum of Modern Art (Nacionalni muzej moderne umjetnosti) The National Museum of Modern Art is one of the richest of its kind in all of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, as well others who work in new media.

From the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern art await. QC‑3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40, fax (+385-1) 604 10 44, www.moderna-galerija.hr.

Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-14:00; closed Mon. Admission 40/30 kn. U Police Museum (Muzej policije) The Museum provides an interesting cross section of the development of the Croatian police forces over the past decades, stresses the important role of the police in the Homeland War and showcases a large collection of weapons. Kids will enjoy the collection of police vehicles and equipment. Section of the Museum is dedicated to the father of dactyloscopy, Ivan Vučetić, where visitors will learn all about the fingerprinting technique, and can pose on a chair for the police photograph, popularly known as the mug shot.

Kids Friendly: Very close to the gallery is the Maksimir neighborhood. Make your way through the Maksimir park and find a restaurant called Ježeva kućica.QK‑2, Avenija Gojka Šuška 1, tel. (+385-1) 242 65 51/(+385-1) 242 63 18, www.muzej-policije.gov.hr/. Open 10:00-13:00; closed Sat, Sun. Every first Saturday of the month open from 10:00 - 13:00. Free admission.

Prigorje Museum (Muzej Prigorja) The museum exhibits a complete picture of the Prigorje region. Its founding in 1977 has also contributed to the discovery of the valuable archaeological site on the Kuzelin hill in 1975. In addition to the collection, the museum preserves and exhibits archaeological, historical, artistic, and documentary items whilst always engaging in conservation and restoration activities as well as education. QTrg D. Domjanića 5, 10360 Sesvete, tel. (+385-1) 200 16 01, www.muzejprigorja.hr/. Open 10:00-19:00; closed Sat, Sun. Technical Museum Nikola Tesla (Tehnički muzej Nikola Tesla) All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propeller-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, fax (+3851-) 484 35 68, www.tmnt. hr. Open 09:00-17:00; Sun, Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Mon. Admission 20kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

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Sightseeing The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 300kn for every 30 minutes. QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, fax (+385-1) 485 21 25, www.hmnu.hr. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admisson 20/70kn.Free entrance - children up to 15 years. A­J The Croatian Society of Artists (HDLU Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika) Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name džamija testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QTrg žrtava fašizma 16, tel. (+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, fax (+385-1) 457 68 31, www.hdlu.hr. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20/10kn. J Typhlological Museum (Tiflološki muzej) This museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available. QD‑3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, fax (+385-1) 483 52 18, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. Open 09:00-16:00; Thu 09:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission 20/15kn. U Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QC‑1, Opatička 20, tel. (+3851) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-14:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/50kn. U­J facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Restaurants

Vinodol Archives

Croatian Bistro Jadranka Perhaps not exactly central, Bistro Jadranka is near enough to the centre to be accessible, but far enough away that your fellow guests are likely to be locals. Menu changes each Monday, with extra fish dishes added each Friday. Has an active Facebook account where you can find out what’s available in a given week. You can pick your own wine from the shop next door, and have it with your meal for a small surcharge.QI‑3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 56, tel. (+385-1) 611 35 18. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. (78-129kn). A­P­G­B­S­ Ficlek Just below the Dolac market, it could be said to be the belly of the city. Ficlek in Zagreb means a small piece, which would mean that you should be able to try pieces of traditional Zagreb food here. On the menu you can find ajngemahtec, Zagreb steak, rags with cabbage, stuffed with potato salad, tafelšpic, štrukle, granadirmarš and various side dishes such as mashed potatoes, grinders, bizi rice and so on. QC‑2, Pod Zidom 5, tel. (+385-) 099 495 89 09. Open 11:00-17:00. (4698kn).

Ježeva kućica If you are after a place that has good home-made cuisine, a relaxed atmosphere and a great surrounding, you will be thrilled with Ježeva kućica (Hedgehog’s House) in Maksimir.

Positioned right next to the Maksimir park-forest, this is a great retreat from city’s hustle and bustle as well as trendy restau18 Zagreb In Your Pocket

rants. In a great atmosphere of this cozy new restaurant, one will enjoy the home specialties at affordable prices. Great food and the beauty of the location makes this place truly unique.

QUl. Fakultetsko dobro 8, tel. (+385-01) 353 52 22, www. jezeva-kucica.hr. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00; closed Mon. (75-185kn).

Ethnic Curry Bowl So two brothers whilst travelling across Europe happen to fall in love with Zagreb and decide to introduce the best Sri Lankan meals to this wonderful city. And that’s the inception of ‘Curry Bowl’, a place of rich and intense flavours, exotic spicy herbs, all combined with organic vegetables and meats from the famous local market Dolac. Head to the vibrant Tkalčićeva Street for some kotthu, devilled dishes or ‘curry in a hurry’! QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 557 91 75, www. srilankancurrybowl.com. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:0024:00. (58-74kn). A­B­S­J­W El Toro Restaurant & Bar As you might expect from the name, this place is themed around good steaks and Latin American cuisine – however these are just the starting blocks for chef Mario Mihelj’s imaginative way with the pots and pans. The aged T-bones and ribeyes are what many people come for although there’s plenty more to choose from, including gourmet tacos and a couple of variations on ceviche (a spicy citrus dishArchives from Kali raw-fish Tourist Board zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Peru). Seafood is a bit more adventurous than in traditional Croatian restaurants; the baked sea bass for example comes with a delicate twist of ginger and sweet-and-sour sauce.

QJ‑3, Ul. fra Filipa Grabovca 1, tel. (+385-) 099 613 2926, www.eltoro.hr. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Mon. (80-200kn).

A­PGB­W Izakaya If you want to get out of the city centre, one possibility is Izakaya on Selska cesta. This restaurant is known for its good food, interesting interpretation of Japanese cuisine and great cocktails. Desserts are definitely worth a try.QSelska 90b, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 60, www.izakaya.hr. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00; closed Sun. (50-180kn). A­W Japanese restaurant Tekka You might not normally associate Zagreb with Japanese cuisine, but over the last 5 years the Croatian capital has seen an impressive influx of high quality sushi. Tekka is one of the most recent additions, a bustling venue with an equally eager staff. A full menu is available, as well as several Japanese beers.QJ‑3, Radnička cesta 37 b, tel. (+385-1) 638 93 98, www.tekka.hr. Open 11:00-23:00; closed Sun. (105-480kn).

A­P­G­TU­B­S­V­L­K Namaste Bistro In the centre of the city there is a small Indian bistro with dishes that lean on the South Indian tradition. A good atmosphere with helpful waiters, and a good selection of various dishes that you can share are a great choice for lunch. The food is delicious, not too spicy. A couple of Croatian wines are also offered, and there is a special menu for cocktails.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 626 44 58. Open 09:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-22:00. (70-95kn).

Royal India The perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine where the scent of incense greets you right at the door and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other delicious dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy because unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is spicy. Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for the day.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65. Open 11:30-22:30. (70-110kn).

A­PG­T­B­S­V­J­­K Saralee’s Thai Street Food A welcome addition to the city centre’s fast food outlets, Khaos Thai is neatly placed right behind the Galleria Business Centre on Vlaška, at Trg Drage Iblera 10. You’ll be hard pressed to find fault with anything here. Great value for money, fantastic flavour and taste across the entire menu, and some of the friendliest staff there is. If you’re searching for your new go-to place, just try their green curry and you’ll know you’ve found it! QD‑2, Trg Drage Iblera 10. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. (60-66kn). S­J facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Sofra Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee.

Q1.Gardijske brigade Tigrovi 1, tel. (+385-1) 613 10 26, www.restoransofra.com. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:0017:00. (56-180kn). A­P­G­B­W Tori Street Food Asian street food fans and fanatics have now got their new favorite place. Tori street food restaurant has recently opened its doors in the western part of Zagreb, the area of Špansko, which is becoming increasingly popular with new trendy places for good food and great fun. Tori street food is the latest contribution to the list. The chef Vid Nikolić prepares the mouthwatering Asian dishes that will make you want to return for more. QTrg Ivana Kukuljevića 5, tel. (+385-) 099 380 26 57, www.toristreetfood.com/. Open 12:00-21:30; closed Sun. (80-95kn). S­V

Modern European ManO2 To say that the cuisine at ManO2 is inspirational would be a gross underestimation. Creative, highly unusual and with unparalleled presentation, these are not meals, they are exSummer / Autumn 2022

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Restaurants periences – just like at the original ManO restaurant in Medvedgradska ulica. The setup at ManO2 in the Radnička cesta business district is more tailored to working lunches during business hours, with the menus a good deal cheaper. The team is led by an extremely talented head chef who ensures that what the kitchen turns out is worthy of every gasp of admiration. Choose from a degustation menu of five or seven courses, or one of two wine pairing menus.QRadnička cesta 50, tel. (+385-1) 643 05 35. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. (560-720kn). A NAV Restaurant One of Croatia’s finest chefs has opened the doors to his restaurant where traditional Croatian cuisine is fused with a strong eastern influence. Chef Tvtrko Šakota bases his 16 dishes tasting menu on the freshest of ingredients which keeps things imaginative. Its fine dining with the slow food style where one can really settle and indulge in the creative dishes amidst a great wine selection.QB‑2, Masarykova 11, tel. (+385-1) 202 99 61, www.nav-restaurant.com/. Open 13:00-24:00; closed Mon, Sun. (890kn). A­P­J­W Noel A warm, cosy and welcoming venue, Noel sits neatly on a corner, hidden among the maze of small streets just north of Home of HDLU. To try and list the kind of dishes available here would take far too much time and space, but then the restaurant knows this all too well and offers diners the option of 6-course vegetarian menu and 6-course chef’s menu so that you can sample as much as possible. QE‑2, Dukljani‑ nova 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 42 97/(+385-) 095 5606 640, www. noel.hr. Open 18:00-24:00; closed Sun. (750-1050kn).

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Pizza Duksa It’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top. Duksa’s pizza menu offers about ten original “designs” with tomato sauce (“red pizza”) and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”). Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, for example “Shitake Happens”. Buon appetito! Also at Ede Murtića 11 (Bundek Centar).QK‑2, Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, www.duksa.hr. Open 10:00-23:00. (57-73kn). A­P­ G­B­S­6­W Franko’s Pizza and Bar The first thing that catches your eye, a very cosy and beautiful interior in the style of the 60s. Not far from the city centre, you can come from the square with tram number 6, get off at the intersection of Držićeva and Šubićeva, and then walk a hundred metres. Pizzas are great, there are many varieties to choose from, ingredients are from top local suppliers. Prices are higher than in other pizzerias. QBranimirova 71a, tel. (+385-1) 653 08 84, www.en.frankos.hr. Open 12:00-22:30.

(45-180kn). A­W 20 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Karijola This second opened location has quickly caught the city’s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant lay-out has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at I-3 Badalićeva 18, (+385-1) 366 70 44.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16, www.pizzeria-karijola.com. Open 12:00-22:45. (55-90kn).

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Street Food KAI Street Food Bar It shouldn’t come as a great surprise, but we’re all about the street food revolution that is sweeping across the planet. Zagreb is more than holding its own on the delicious front, and Kai Street Food is right at the forefront of the battle, serving up fusion street food from an ever-changing menu that is never less than delicious. Throw in excellent service and charming decor and you’ve got yourself a lunchtime option per excellence. QC‑2, Jurišićeva 2a, tel. (+385-) 097 664 52 66, www.facebook.com/kaistreetfoodbar. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Mon, Sun. (70-80kn). J Kata Brunch Bar Looking for some excellent gluten-free bread in Zagreb? Katin Kruh is the place to go. Not only do you get that unmistakable aroma as soon as you enter, but the bread itself is also among the best in town, soft and fluffy yet crisp and confident at the same time. Is it possible for bread to be confident? We’re not sure, but we’re sticking with the analogy. QPetrinjska 29, www.kruhbezglutena.hr. Open 07:30-20:00; Sat 08:0016:00; closed Sun. A

Wine & Bites Lari & Penati Inspired by the gods of bounty and hearth, this tiny deli-bistro has surely made its namesake proud as a huge addition to the Zagreb cuisine scene. With one-of-a-kind flavors on a menu that changes daily, like the locals, you’ll want to keep coming back for more. Check their facebook postings for the latest creations currently keeping lips buzzing and tummies happy.

QD‑3, Petrinjska 42a, tel. (+385-1) 465 57 76. Open 11:3022:00; closed Sat, Sun. (70-130kn). A ­P­G­B­S­W Mali Bar Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 14. Open 12:30-23:00; closed Sun. (75-145kn). A­P­G­B­W

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Restaurants Underground Treasure Hunt in Turopolje Southeast of Zagreb, between the rivers of Sava and Kupa lies the fertile plain of Turopolje. This lowland marshy area is overgrown with dense forests that were once inhabited by the aurochs (Croatian ‘tur’), an extinct cattle species, which gaveTuropolje its name. Dense oak forests have always providedlocals with quality building material for the area’s traditional wooden architecture.

Photos by Ivana Kovačić

Driving past the wooden farmhouses and manors of Turopolje, we marvel at the enchanting wooden chapels, reminders of the times long gone by. Today there are eleven preserved wooden chapels left in this region, among which, the chapel of St. Barbara in Velika Mlaka, is the most stunning example.This wooden Baroque church,built completely from oak planks of Turopolje, testifies to this centuries’ long tradition of building in wood.

We ‘cruise’ further south to the city of Velika Gorica and make a stop at the municipal Museum of Turopolje and at a newly opened Visitor’s Centre with an exciting interactive exhibition that engages all senses.

After leaving Velika Gorica, we part with the city vibes and immerse ourselves in the magical world of the Turopoljski Lug (Turopolje Grove).

Turopolje Grove is a remnant of a prehistoric forest that was first men-

tioned in the 13th century. Walking through the woodland with magical Ent-like trees around, one might thinkthatone is lost in the Lord of the Ringstrilogy, andit feels that this isnot far from the truth. These fairytale woods certainly keep many secrets and wonders.

One of them is a unique Turopolje pig that lives in the area. It is a specialbreed of pig that has an elongated body and snout and characteristic thick, curly hair. Here amidst the oak woods of Turopolje, this lucky pig enjoys the abundance of acorn and occasionally treats itself to the underground dessert – His Majesty the Truffle!

If oak trees are perceived as the magical Entsabove the ground, truffles are certainly thekings of the underground world. This hidden treasure oftheTuropolje Grove attracts local truffle hunters who look for theprized delicacy with the aid of their specially trained dogs. We join

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PeterAlebić, one of the local truffle hunters, in a relaxing walk through the woods, in search of the precious subterranean fungi.

Petar lives in the nearby Velika Gorica and roams these woods with two of his cheerful Lagotto Romagnolo dogs, Kali and Njuška. When the truffle season kicks in, usually in May, he comes here almost daily and continues this routine until late into the winter season, whentuber brumale, a winter type of truffle, is widely found. Peter estimates that ten different varieties of truffles grow in these woods, but he, personally, digs four types – tuber aestivum, tuber macrosporum, tuber uncinatum and tuber brumale.

But what is a truffle? And why is it so precious? They certainly are the most expensive mushrooms found on the market. Truffle isan edible fungus in the Tuberaceae family which lives underground, especially around the roots of trees in damp forests. AnSummer / Autumn 2022

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Underground Treasure Hunt in Turopolje

cient Romans, for example, believed that the truffle was created when lightning struck damp earth. The forests in Turopolje are marshy and thus perfect for the truffle growth.

Truffles mayrange from the size of a walnut to the size of a fist. Because they occur naturally around the roots of trees, truffle hunters in the past often used pigs to dig them up. Today, specially trained dogs are used more widely, mainly because pigs would eat most of the truffles they locate.

Truffles are prized for their flavor and aroma worldwide. They are also rare, difficult to source, and once harvested, they can lose the intensity of flavourwithin days. All of thiscombined makes them one of the world’s most expensive foods.

Petar, who’s been in the truffle business for seven years, makes his own tartufatasaucewhich is delicious whencombined with pasta. He also sells truffles to the local restaurants 22 Zagreb In Your Pocket

and hotels.However,what he enjoys the most, is taking his guests on a truffle hunting tour around the Turopolje Grove. After a two-hour exciting walk with Petar and his canine companions - Kali and Njuška, a happy and rewarded visitor will definitely have a chance to exclaim: MY PRECIOUS! It is hard to compare the taste of truffleswith anything else. They have an earthy, umami-rich flavor that people either adore or dislike completely.You cannot be indifferent.

To round up a perfect day, Petaris taking us to the local restaurant Babriga to sample some traditional local dishes enriched with the aromatic truffle shavings. Nothing can spice up your meal better than a freshly grated local truffle.

It is hard to imagine that only half an hour away from the hustle and bustle of the Croatia’s capital there is an oasis of woodlandwith nature’s best

kept underground secret,where you will be kept occupied for the whole day. Just make sure you have your trekking shoes ready! For truffle hunting tours and truffle gourmete xperience in Turopolje contact Ivana Kovačić: ivana. kovacic@gmail.com / +385 (91) 548 8250

DID YOU KNOW THAT… …in the waters of Turopolje area there are more than twenty species of fish and two hundred types of birds? ...there were witches’trials in the old town of Lukavec, not far from VelikaGorica, all the way ‘til 18th century? ... the Croats from Turopoljeinvented a ‘cravat’, forerunner of today’s necktie in the 17th century?

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Coffee & Cakes Botaničar Perhaps oddly located in one sense, but perfectly in another, Botaničar is a mix of art gallery, café, culture venue, situated only a few minutes from the Botanical Garden. This part of the city seems to attract ‘underground’ venues, and it’s easy to see why. Here you will find book launches, poetry nights and, more importantly, somewhere peaceful to enjoy your tea or coffee.

QB‑3, Trg Marka Marulića 6. Open 08:00-23:00; Sun 11:0019:00. ­T­B­S­J­6­W Br00m44 Taking inspiration from the bewitching stories of Marija Jurić Zagorka, Br00m44 is a darling little cafe that serves espressos in picturesque cups and breakfast bites for the hungry. An in-demand location next to the central market adds to the experience, although everything does centre on the quality of the coffees and the freshness of the squeezed juices. Pick up a Zagorka tale to read while here, for the full experience. QC‑2, Dolac Market, tel. (+385) 095 907 40 47. Open 06:30-15:00; Sun 08:00-14:00.

Cremme Cookies and cream is a well-known flavour in the ice cream and biscuit world, and it’s making its mark on Zagreb too. At Cremme Zagreb you’ll find not only a massive range of pies and cakes, but biscuits and ‘Mrvice’ too. If you don’t have time to sit and relax, you can always place an order and have something delivered! That’s the cookies side of things. You might also notice quite an array of face creams, bath bombs, hair products, masks... the list continues. Fully Croatian, fully natural. All the best there is for your personal care. And thus, the cream. A great spot to take a break during shopping, and a great spot to shop at while you take a break. Also at Nemčićeva 8 (J-3).

QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 551 06 45, www.cremme. hr. Open 09:00-23:00. A­P­G­B­J­W Finjak Neatly nestled just off the street, Finjak finds itself alongside a number of like-minded businesses. This delightful stepback-in-time antique-filled cafe has a very nice selection of high quality teas, as well as the usual coffee fare you’d expect.

Heineken and San Servolo can be found here. Indoors is nonsmoking but there is an outdoor terrace.QE‑2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-) 098 130 0057. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. G­BJ6­W

the game of Kavantura, where the beans are crisp and the atmosphere is good, all enjoyed in a cafe with a playlist curated by the customers. Kavantura also serves excellent craft beers, juices, teas and more for those who have had enough coffee, and the seriously enthusiastic can take beans home for personal use. QHorvaćanska 23a, tel. (+385 - 1) 237 19 80, www. kavantura.com/. Open 08:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-23:00.

Meet Mia The section of Vlaška closest to the city centre is home to a wonderful grouping of shops, Meet Mia – a breakfast and brunch restaurant - being among them. Here you can get everything from tea and coffee to grilled sandwiches and dessert.

Pick up something sweet to take away, or perhaps give them a call if you need something special made…QD‑2, Vlaška 43, tel. (+385-1) 468 38 23. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

N­B­S­ Program You can’t get enough of a good thing, so we’re all sorts of happy to give as much time to Program Bar’s second setting as possible. The aesthetic staples at the Petrova location tick all the boxes, as do the coffee, cakes and comfort levels. The place is entirely non-smoking and the decor is just about as elegant as you’re going to get, giving ordinary conversations a lofty feel that you’ll want to live in forever. QE‑1, Petrova 21. Open 07:00-23:00; Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-23:00.

Velvet This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way. Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area.QB‑2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00.

A­PGTBJ6­ Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Kavana Corso Brass and copper tones is the best way to start with a description of this cafe, oh and a piano sitting in the middle of it all.

Their Instagram account will give you a better idea. If you’ve not seen it in passing, chances are someone’s told you all about it already. Hidden away on Rapska, Kavana Corso has a 1950s / steampunky feel. Certainly worth the visit if you’re eager to try somewhere new.QJ‑3, Rapska 35, tel. (+385-1) 484 01 93.

Open 06:00-24:00. P­GTB­E­6­W Kavantura Coffee for people who take coffee seriously but want to have a good time when drinking it. Speciality coffee is the name of facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Hangin’ Out Bikers Beer Factory Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer.

Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00; Sun 10:00-24:00. N­P­­T­B­E­6­W Bobi i Rudi Pivnica Bobi and Rudi isn’t exactly in the centre of Zagreb, but the energy and excitement of this Pivnica are well worth the trip. The beer list is every bit the equal of anywhere in the centre of town and the atmosphere trumps most places, with a vibrant buzz from open to close. Cross the river and head to the Zapruđe neighbourhood for good times and better beer. QTrg Ivana Meštrovića 1c, tel. (+385-) 091 573 72 69. Open 08:00-24:00.

B DVA OSAM From the ashes of Jabuka has Dva Osam risen. Punters have been making the pilgrimage to Jabukovac 28 for entertainment and energetic nights in equal measure, and Dva Osam is more than happy to keep that torch alight with a packed schedule of live music and other events. A one-stop shop for culture of all shapes and sizes, Dva Osam is also a pretty fun spot to dance the night away and get sweaty with friends and drinks in equal measure. QJabukovac 28, www.dvaosam.com/.

Open Mon, Tue, Wed 17:00-00:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00-04:00; Sun 17:00-00:00. closed for 1 week, from 10.07. until 18.07.

Hard place At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.”QI‑4, Ulica hrvatske bratske zajednice 4, www. hardplace.hr. Open 09:00-01:00; Fri 09:00-04:00; Sat 10:0004:00; closed Sun. N­P­­B­W Hub Cooltura Pub Hub Cooltura Pub might be considered ‘normal’ or it might be considered ‘different’. It looks like you’d expect a café or pub to look like… a combination of rustic, local styles, and it looks radically different at the same time, integrating more industrial motifs and imagery. Think a mix of steampunk and Doctor Who. All in all it’s relaxing, and welcoming. The interior is handmade, original design, and the space is dominated by retro armchairs, creatively used beer bottles, old-fashioned kilns, and even tractor crates. If you think this type of different is your thing, then you must try this place at least once. If it’s not giving away too many secrets, the In Your Pocket offices are a mere quarter hour jaunt away, and you’re not at all that far from the main bus station. The nearest tram stop north of the pub is Olibska, the 2, 3, and 13 use this line, while you’ve also access via the 6, 7 and 8 lines to the southwest. That’s nearly half of all trams in Zagreb!

The universe is telling you something!QK‑3/4, Rapska 20, tel.

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(+385-) 091 519 37 36. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 09:00-24:00.

A­GUB6­W KC Mesnička A small club in the city centre, especially productive with literary evenings, exhibitions, jazz jam sessions, live concerts and dj sets. The upper part of the club is great for drinking coffee, while the music events are held in the smaller basement.QB‑1, Mesnička 12, tel. (+385-) 091 604 00 70. Open 07:00-02:00; Sun 10:00-02:00.

KSET On the cutting edge of all things cool, KSET has gained a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz, rock and punk concerts as well as DJ performances and theatre plays. Club run strictly by students is known for its cultural impact, chill atmosphere and urban interior.QB‑4, Unska 3, www.kset.org/. Open 20:00-24:00; closed Sun. N­G­B­ E­6­W Landsky Bar Near the Zagreb tram depot at Ljubljanica, cocktail fans will find their favourite pilgrimage site. Apart from its unique design and some of the best cocktails in town, the name itself holds an interesting story. Paula Landsky was the first Croatian ticket inspector on trams who got hired during the First World War. Landsky bar is paying tribute to this exceptional lady who worked 12 hours a day, raised 8 children and lived to be 101. As you probably guess, the main design theme of the bar is the tram and the colour that prevails is blue – symbolizing Zagreb trams. QOzaljska 164, tel. (+385-) 097 683 40 16. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 08:00-24:00.

Močvara This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also some-thing of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week-film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip decor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. The club’s bar is open from 17:00 to 24:00 every day, in addition to organized concerts, exhibitions, panels and special events, which you can track on their Facebook page. The club’s bar is open from 17 to 24 every day, in addition to special events.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip 1 -3, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, www.mochvara.hr. Open Tue 17:00-24:00; closed Mon, Sun. Open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web or Facebook page.

N­PGUBEL­6­W Mr. Fogg An established steampunk venue, Mr. Fogg is spacious and continues to grow in popularity. Exposed brickwork, dials and gauges abound, and unusual metal sculptures everywhere. If you’re the sort of café-goer who loves taking photos of your surrounds, then you must set aside an afternoon or night and make a trip to Martićeva. When you do get here you’ll see a wide range of spirits, several of which are unique to Mr. Fogg.

These are used to tweak various cocktails so as to mirror the zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Hangin’ Out journeys of Phileas Fogg himself. There’s also a list of bespoke cocktails, with the barstaff only too happy to help you in designing one all for you! QE‑2, Martićeva 31. Open 07:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 07:00-02:00. B­J Pločnik Covering three floors, the concept successfully melds music with cutting-edge design and the latest-and-greatest from the alternative world of street art, into one multifunctional space. Visit the cafe bar on the ground floor to chill out on vintage couches while sipping a local craft beer in a collective living room-like atmosphere inspired by New York City from the 1930’s. Go upstairs to the record store, listen to your favourite music and come away with a rare vinyl record, or step into the basement in the evening to check out the nightclub (the program starts in October) and temporary art gallery. Pločnik is a collective lifestyle concept that’s definitely not to be missed.QH‑3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-) 091 430 07 33, www.pozitivanritam.hr/plocnik. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Sun. closed in July and August. A­B­E­6­W Sax! This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles.

Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss.

QD‑3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, www.sax-zg.hr. Open 20:00-04:00; closed Sun. N­G­W Vintage Industrial Bar This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer.

Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 09:00-24:00. P­TB­E­6­W

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SummerEsplanade / Autumn 2022 25 Zagreb Hotel Archive

Shopping Arena Centar Arena Centar is the dominant fashion and beauty center in Zagreb and beyond, as well as the best entertainment center. Top brands, cafes with outdoor terraces and restaurants with a wide selection of fast, local and exotic cuisine are the reasons why visitors repeatedly choose Arena Centar. Arena Park,a retail park with 10 shops and a cafe, is located at the western entrance to the Arena Centar.Check the opening hours of the Arena Center at this link.QH‑5, Ulica Vice Vukova 6, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, www. arenacentar.hr/en/. Open 09:00-21:00.

Bookara (Bookshop) Bookara is a neighborhood bookstore and sells quality fiction, science fiction, comics, popular science, philosophy, top journalism. They also offer a board game program, and nurture an individualized approach and are interested in what their customers want to read.QMaksimirska 39, tel. (+385-) 091 510 86 34, www.bookara.hr/. Open 12:0021:00; Sat 11:00-21:00; closed Sun. A Industrija We do love a second-hand shop, even more so if it happens to be pet-friendly, and that is exactly what we find at Industrija on Vlaška. Well, more accurately you should come here to the excellent selection of clothing and fashion accessories, with both eyes firmly fixed on sustainable fashion. Pick out your summer styles and then see if the pet approves. Here’s hoping!QE‑2, Vlaška 46. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. A

Lutak Lutak is a little cottage industry making handmade toys. It may not be the most shiny and modern,tucked away in the backstreets as it is, buthere you’ll find such endearing characters to capture your children’s imagination. If you’d like to support a local small business this is a great place to find utterly charming gifts for little ones. QTuškanova 34, tel. (+385-0) 91 892 6084. The atelier is open 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 17:00 20:00 and you can always call for an appointment.

Nataša Nataša In the heart of Zagreb’s design district, on the corner of Martićeva and Bauerova you’ll find a little shop owned

by Nataša Mihaljčišin, one of the two designers behind renowned Croatian fashion label i-gle, which is sadly no more. Nataša definitely designs the most beautiful and creative knitwear in Zagreb. QMartićeva.

Planetopija This bright and welcoming bookshop specialises in everything related to healthy living: cookery books, vegetarianism, environmentalism, conscious parenting, health and personal development - in Croatian and in English. There’s a lovely selection of books designed to awaken ethical sensibilities in children, plus a range of eco-friendly toys and gifts for everyone.QB‑2, Ilica 68, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 97, www.planetopija.hr.

Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, closed Sun. July 25 - August 20 Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 15:00, closed Sun. A­J Stripovi na kvadrat An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here. Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 77, www. stripovi.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. A

Lapidarium - Zlatarna Mario Looking for a piece of jewelry that’s truly one-of-a-kind and fits your unique individualized style? Then look no further because Lapidarium offers the perfect solution to your search.

Not only do they supply finished jewelry, but they also allow customers to create their own customized pieces for every type of occasion, whether a special event, like a wedding, or for a simple casual night spent out on the town. These original adornments are a unique brand in Croatia and were created by local and international designers that used modern and innovative ideas to make the jewelry. Their use of various shapes and engravings, with precious stones and gems, result in a cutting-edge, yet sophisticated design.QC‑2, Radićeva 10, tel. (+385-1) 553 06 49, www.lapidarium.eu. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J 26 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Shopping Take Me Home - Croatian Design Shop The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian gifts and souvenirs created by over 60 local designers. Tote bags with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs, unique jewellery, trendy notebooks and planners, art prints, cool t-shirts, awarded kids’ toys and handmade cosmetics to take home from your trip.

QB‑2, Tomićeva 4 (near Funicular), tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J

Top - niche perfumery Shopping for fragrances, then head to TOP for a journey of the senses! Their range includes more than fifty exquisite perfumes, skin care and home fragrance brands including Byredo, Escentric Molecules, Juliette Has A Gun, Profvmvm Roma through to Australian Aesop, Dr. Barbara Sturm and more. Other accessories include hard-to-find scented candles and diffusors amongst other items. So turn your home into a sweetly scented haven! You can find them at two city locations, in Tomićeva Street near the funicular, and on the main Ban Jelačić Square.QB‑2 & C‑2, Tomićeva 4 & Trg bana J.Jelačića 13, tel. (+385-1) 798 09 69, www.top.hr. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J Tvoje.hr There are a couple of very special florists in Zagreb, which are also little conceptual stores. Tvoje.hr is owned by architect and florist Boška Bahtijarević, and everything in it is an expression of her personality and unique bohemian style. QMartićeva 16f, tel. (+385 - 1) 465 19 84. Open 10:00-20:00; Mon 16:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J Vintage Circus This local clothing brand was built around distinctive and unique clothing suggesting that something doesn’t need to be in fashion to be fashionable; refreshing to say the least. The clothes here are made in small series’ by fashion designer Lidija Bošnjak who focuses on detail, high quality materials, functionality and longevity.QD‑2, Jurišićeva 10, tel. (+385 - ) 095 911 16 22, www.vintage-circus.business.site/. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-16:00; closed Sun. A 28 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Shopping

Markets Locals utilise the Farmer’s Market for purchasing almost all of their groceries, and as such, Zagreb is home to quite a few of them.

All of them feature completely natural products from Croatia, operate every day of the week and get there early to ensure that you see the freshest and most extensive collection.

Ulični Ormar The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs.

Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece.

QC‑3, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, www.ulicni-ormar.hr. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:0018:00; closed Sun. From 50kn. A ­J­6

Towards the end of the day, good bargains present themselves so keep your eyes open.

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The Great Escape Whether your idea of a good time is visiting museums, lazing on a beach, hitting the slopes, or sipping wine in the countryside, you can check our list of Weekend Escapes in Croatia that await you this summer / autumn.

With summer in full swing there is a lot to choose from. Whether it’s touring the Zagorje castles, cruising around the Karlovac rivers, indulging in local culture and gastronomy of Ozalj, hiking in the mountains of Gorski kotar or sunbathing and exploring the coast, we’ve rounded up the best destinations for a superb weekend break in Croatia.

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Orebić Tourist Board Archive

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The Great Escape Aquatika - Freshwater aquarium Karlovac Karlovac is famous for its four rivers, each one just as lovely as the other. This beautiful modern aquarium is devoted to local freshwater life, enabling us to get to know our fishy friends better and understand more fully just how rich in beauty and biodiversity the Karlovac region is.

Nature & Hiking Trails Walking on Medvednica is a proper forest immersion experience. Wherever you go, trees soar high above you, majestically rustling. Within the Park, there are 8 protected forest reservations. You will come across many common species such as oak, chestnut, beech, but also the rare ones like linden and yew. There is a belief that the yew tree has great powers, which is reflected in some modern fiction.

The evil wizard, Voldemort, from the Harry Potter series of books has a magic wand made of this tree. Medvednica stretches 42 km and offers 70 hiking blazed trails of various length and degree of difficulty. You may also choose among several interpretative walks and educational trails. Of special note is the Bliznec forest trail which is completely adapted for visitors with disabilities. Through the educational boards set up along the trail you will learn about the colourful history of Medvednica, its flora and fauna. Other educational trails include the Miroslavec trail and the Bikčević trail, one of the most visited trails in Park.

Dubstep Country The Dubovac Castle is one of the best-preserved and most beautiful monuments of medieval architecture in Croatia. Built on a prehistoric hill above the river Kupa, it was named after the dubs, the oaks growing on the surrounding slopes. The castle changed hands many times throughout history and its current appearance is the result of a comprehensive restoration carried out during the midtwentieth century. Within the castle you will come across a museum and a nice cosy restaurant witha touch of Medieval times.

A Perfect Escape Zagorje is a picturesque region of rolling hills covered in vineyards and dotted with churches and castles all over the place. Serving as perfect haven for relaxation and contemplation, it is also a great destination for an active holiday. Whether you choose to enjoy its numerous thermal springs, get to know the local crafts in Kumrovec open-air museum, do a tour of the fairy-tale castles of Trakošćan and Veliki Tabor or simply go hiking, cycling & mushroom picking, Zagorje has it all.

Weird Science Situated in a large sloping private garden, the Science Park in Oroslavlje (www.parkznanosti.com) is a fun way to explore basic physics, with a sequence of interactive learning stations that help kids learn about mass and velocity, human senses – or simply have fun bashing things.

A Day in the Country For a perfect day at the beach with a difference, the river Mrežnica near Karlovac is a great place to picnic on the lawns and enjoy a dip in a slow-flowing river: Belavići, with its grassy riverbank, restaurants and camp-site, is the place to aim for. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Tourist Board Gorski Kotar Archive

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The Great Escape

All Quiet on the Croatian Front The mid-Croatian town of Karlovac was on the front line during the Homeland War of 1991-95 and it is fitting that this national museum devoted to the conflict is located here. More precisely, it liesjust off the main road to the Plitvice Lakes in the suburb of Turanj, the place where the main enemy advance was repulsed. The display is housed in an imaginatively renovated nineteenth-century barracks, first built by the Austrians and then pressed into service in 1991

by Karlovac’s Croatian defenders, who ironically dubbed the place ‘Hotel California’. Encased in a glass shell, the barracks contains a modern multi-media display detailing the military operations that took place here together with an account of what life was like for the local civilian population. Alongside a wealth of military hardware inside the Museum of the Homeland War, Turanj, Karlovac there is a stirring display of artillery pieces, aircraft and armoured cars on the lawn outside.

Where the Wild Things Are To learn more about the big beasts of Croatia’s forests then head for the Large Carnivores Visitors Centre in Stara Sušica (www. centar-velikezvijeri.eu),where a multi-media display introduces you to the lives of the bears and wolves of the Gorski Kotar.

Slava Raškaj Don’t miss out on visiting the Old Town of Ozalj and its museum that hosts the paintings of Slava Raškaj, one of Croatia’s greatest impressionist painters who searched for inspiration in the lyrical landscapes of the Ozalj region – its lush gardens, water lilies, flowers, willows by the river, and local people doing their everyday chores. Her water colors represent the highest achievement of Croatian impressionist painting at the turn of the century..

The Good Spa Moment Health and wellness go hand in hand with Opatija and the Thalassotherapia Medical Center has the complete package to suit almost all of your health needs. As their offer continues to expand, the center now includes the application of contemporary, aesthetic interventions ensured under the highest medical standards. It is possible to remove or alleviate almost all aesthetic flaws of the face and body and you get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa.

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What Lies Below The Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from an opening high up in a rock face. The second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz – or the Devil’s Pass. This is an 800m long canyon carved out of the rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along galleries and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and at the end you’ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, stalactites and a small underground lake. Zeleni vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6 motorway (Zagreb direction).

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The Great Escape Pining for the Fjords Cutting into the western coast of Istria is a wondrously beautiful inlet known as the Limski kanal or Lim Channel.

Popularly dubbed the Lim Fjord due to its resemblance to the Norwegian coast, it is in fact a 10km-long estuary of a local river, the Pazinčica. Edged by steep grey-green slopes that in places reach a height of 150 metres, this stunning natural feature is a popular target for boat trips from the nearby resorts of Poreč and Rovinj. One historical personality who is rumored to have come here on a boat trip and stayed is seventeenth-century Welshswashbuckler Henry Morgan, whose alleged descendants live in the village of Mrgani above the fjord’s northern rim. The Italian adventurer and teller of tall tales Giacomo Casanova briefly stayed at the nearby hillside town of Vrsar, noting the region’s “good wine and beautiful women”in his memoirs. By way of tribute to the Venetian charmer, a popular biking trail from Vrsar to the Lim Fjord is known as the “Casanova Way”. The Fjord is also famous for its oysters, which are served in a couple of renowned restaurants down by the shore.Lim’s fjord-like features were put to good use in HoJlywood Viking movie The Long Ships (starring Richard Widmark and Sidney Poitier), filmed here in 1963.

Blue Fish Month If by any chance you find yourself, say on a Friday at our fish market, you will surely notice the largest cue at the stands selling fresh sardines and anchovies. And it is these

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species of blue fish that is sold the most, both because it is rather cheap and foremost extremely healthy. In saying that, even if small blue fish such as sardines are known to catch the eye; it is topple, whitefish, bream or grouper that is still highly sought after. Hence, it would seem that people survive on blue fish, whilst dreaming of having white fish and for that matter, large tasty portions of it. To put it mildly, this is a somewhat unfair attitude towards a category of fish that has in the past nurtured and raised our entire coastline.To celebrate the magic of the oily fish recipes that have sustained this place for centuries, September in Crikvenica will be Blue Fish Month. Sardines at their most magical.

An UnFaustian Bargain Take a boat to Prvić island and get acquainted with Faust Vrančić – a philosopher, lexicographer and inventor who marked the 16th century. Faust invented the parachute, olive mills, grape presses and sundials, to name just a few.

Venice, 16th century, Vrančić takes the plunge and makes it! You are looking at the first formal inventor of the parachute.

Being a polymath, he was born in Šibenik and was buried on the island of Prvić, home to this centre where you can see drawings, book collections, models and prototypes of his numerous inventions. Includes multimedia displays and educational games for youngsters!, Prvić Island, mcfaustvrancic.com

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Living la Via Brattia Via Brattia, a 140 km-long hiking trail, encircles almost the entire island of Brač making it an exquisite tourist attrac­ tion. The trail connects the 12 most attractive historical loca­tions and some of the most picturesque places on the island, challenging the recreationists and mountaineers who can collect stamps at each of the 12 points. The trail passes through the center of Supetar, Mirac, Sutivan, Bobovišća na moru, Ložišća, Milna, Murvica, Bol, Sumartin, Povlja, Pučišća, Postira, Škrip, and some of the island’s most beautiful beaches and bays (Zlatni rat, Farska, Mur­vica, Lovrečina, Smrka, etc.) Since the trail is circular, it is marked both ways and you can start your hike from any of the above-mentioned settlements, simply by following the blue-white blazes. If you decide to do the whole trail, it would be wise to plan a sleepover at some of the small towns on the map, where you can stock up on water and food supply. There is a map of the trail that will come in handy for all who decide to take up the challenge. Find the route map in the tourist information centers of the island of Brač.

Mountains High Situated on a karst plateau well to the east of the Adriatic coast, Imotski is a historic market town full of stone-built houses and tranquil alleys. It is famous for an astounding pair of natural beauty spots right on the outskirts of town, the Blue Lake (Modro Jezero) and Red Lake (Crveno Jezero). Both are situated in deep limestone depressions facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

which fill with water during rainy periods and drain almost dry in especially hot summers. The Blue Lake is a designated nature park, with well-kept paths spiraling down to the shore and the possibility of taking a swim in the turquoise waters at the bottom. There is a lot of apartment accommodation in the area, and if the stark beauty of the Dalmatian interior appeals, this is the ideal place to enjoy it. .

Bridge Over Troubled Waters A spiny finger of land topped by a mountain ridge, the 65km-long Pelješac peninsula stretches northeastwards into the Adriatic from the famous oyster-farming town of Ston. The peninsula is not exactly unknown to tourists but it is far from being over-exploited, offering a plethora of niche locations and little-traveled corners. The main town is Orebić, a beach resort of some popularity on account of its expansive pebble strands. However Orebić remains a family-centred resort rather than a raucous hotspot, and the beaches are big enough to accommodate everyone without too much of a crush. Viganj, west of Orebić, is popular with the windsurfing crowd on account of its channeled breezes, but most of them stay in campsites, there is no line of hotels dominating the shore. Beach connoisseurs will love the fine crescents of shingle tucked away in hidden places likeTrstenik, Žuljana and Divna.

Above all Pelješac is famous for its wine, with the peninsula’s steep south-facing slopes yielding some of the best reds in the country.

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36 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Getting Around buses While Zagreb has several smaller hubs and terminals for citywide public buses and trams, there is only one intercity terminal. This can be found to the south east of the city centre, on Avenija Marina Držića, best known as Držićeva. If you wish to get here from the city centre, i.e. from the main square Trg Bana Jelačić, just grab the first 6 you see coming from the west, in the direction of Sopot. The numbers 2, 5, 7 and 8 also stop in front of the station! The 3, 9 and 13 will also run near, but you’ll have to get off and walk one stop further. The majority of timetables are online, with some like Flixbus having additional services listed only on their own site. Tickets can be purchased online and collected at any of 15 points within the terminal itself. If time is a luxury, you can also purchase tickets by phone and have them delivered to your doorstep. Be aware that there is a narrow afternoon delivery window. The coach service for the airport, Pleso prijevoz, leaves from here, every half an hour. If you’re only stopping in Zagreb, waiting on a connecting bus and have a few hours to grab dinner or a drink then you’ll find several cafes along the front of the terminal as well as the excellent Magazinska klet – Pri staroj smokvi to the rear on Strojarska cesta. Try the Leskovački voz (Leskovac ‘train’) while there.

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 072 500 400, www.akz.hr.

airport The new passenger terminal at the Franjo Tuđman Airport, located 17km out of town and with a capacity of hosting 5 million passengers per year, went into commercial use in spring 2017. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Franjo Tuđman Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person.

Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly.

Franjo Tuđman International Airport Zagreb (Zračna luka Franjo Tuđman Zagreb)QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-) 060 32 03 20, www.zagreb-airport.hr.

trains The main train station can be found at the south eastern corner of the Lenuci Horseshoe, a series of parks that were built in the 1800s when this part of the city was considered the outskirts. Here you can find your train for local, national, and international destinations. Access to the station is possible to the rear, where you’ll find a bus terminal servicing multiple suburbs across the south of the city. Once there, you’re walking distance to the city centre, and a pleasurable facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

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Arrival & Getting Around walk too through three of the parks of the Horseshoe, Trg kralja Tomislava, Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayera, and Zrinjevac. If you need to go further afield than the centre you’ll find tram numbers 2, 4, 6, 9 and 13 passing in either direction, while taxis can also be found out front.

Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-1) 378 25 83, www.hzpp.hr.

Public transport Trams & Buses Getting around town is made all the much easier via the city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00 - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. There are 146 daily bus lines and 4 night lines which link Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Bus station on Kvaternik Square is also important because it connects Zagreb with the airport. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night rides (00:00 – 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. A 4kn ticket (6kn from driver) is valid for short rides up to 30 minutes, a 7kn ticket (10kn from driver) up to 60 minutes. Tickets are available at kiosks and ZET store or from the driver on buses, and trams. Children under six ride free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an invalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses and trams, simply visit www.zet.hr. Qtel. (+385-) 072 50 04 00, www.zet.hr.

Taxis Eko taxi As soon as you reach Zagreb, download Eko Taxi’s free and easy to use application which is available on IOS and Android Systems, and you can order a taxi without even making a call. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 10kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 6,20kn. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays.QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 549 94 74/(+385-1) 1414, (+385-1) 607 777, fax (+385-1) 889 20 11, www.ekotaxi.hr. Open 24 hours. A Radio taksi Zagreb Taxis should only charge a 10kn flat fee plus 6kn/km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-1) 660 06 71/(+385-1) 660 12 35, fax (+385-1) 669 26 86, www.radiotaxizagreb.com/hr/.

Taxi Cammeo These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 8kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 4.90kn whilst the price for waiting is 1kn per minute. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage.QJ‑4, Ulica Damira Tomljanovića Gavrana 15, tel. +385 (0) 1 1212/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.cammeo. hr/hr. A Uber The Uber car service app is in full swing in Zagreb. Go anywhere in the city at any time with the tap of your finger.

Use the app to find the driver nearest to you, automatically calculate the fare and pay via their exclusive cashless system. Uber is the most affordable option for getting around. Qwww.uber.com.

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38 Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Street register

29. X. 1918.

Aleksandrove stube Amruševa Andrije Hebranga A. Heinza Andrije Žaje Antuna Bauera Arnoldova Augusta Šenoe A. Marina Držića Bakačeva Barčićeva Baruna Trenka Basaričekova Bednjanska Berislavićeva Biankinijeva Bogovićeva Božidara Adžije Branjugova Brešćenskoga Britanski trg Brozova Buconjićeva Bulatova Bulićeva Čačkovićeva Cesarčeva Čirilometodska Crnatkova Dalmatinska Degenova Demetrova Dežmanova Domagojeva Đorđićeva Dubravkin put Dvoranski prečac Erdödyeva Felbingerove stube Florijana Andrašeca Frane Petrića

C-1 B-1 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-3 A-2 D-3 E-4 C-2 E-2 C-3 C-1 B-4 C-3 E-2 C-2 A-3 D-2 E-2 A-2 A-4 A-2 A-2 E-2 E-1 C-2 C-1 A-4 B-2 C-1 B-1 B-2 D-4 D-2 B-1 C-1 E-3 C-1 A-4 C-2

Franje Račkog Frankopanska Froudeova Golubovac Grič Grgura Ninskog Gundulićeva Habdelićeva Harmica Hochmanova Hrvojeva Ilica Ivana Gorana Kovačića Ivana Kukuljevića Ivekovićeve stube Jagićeva Janka Draškovića Jezuitski trg Jukićeva Jurišićeva Jurja Žerjavića Jurkovićeva Kačićeva Kamaufova Kamenita Kaptol Kapucinske stube Katančićeva Katarinin trg Klaićeva Kneza Borne Kneza Branimira Kneza Lj. Posavskog Kneza Mislava Kneza Mutimira Kneza Višeslava Koranska Kordunska Koturaška Kovačića Ante Kozarčeva Kotarska

D-2 B-3 B-1 B-1 B-2 C-4 B-3 C-1 C-2 A-3 E-3 A-2 B-1 A-2 D-1 A-3 D-3 C-1 A-3 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-2 C-1 C-1 B-1 C-3 C-1 A-3 D-3 D-4 E-3 D-3 D-3 E-3 B-4 A-2 A-4 C-3 A-1 C-1

Kralja Držislava Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Kranjčevićeva Križanićeva Kršnjavoga Krutićeva Krvavi most Kumičićeva Kurelčeva Kuševićeva Laginjina Lepušićeva Lisinskog Lopašićeva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska Marićev prolaz Markovićev trg Martićeva Marulićev trg Masarykova Matičina Matoševa Mažuranićev trg Medulićeva Mesnička Mihanovićeva Miklouševa Mikulićeva Miramarska Mletačka Mlinarske stube Mrazovićeva Nikole Tesle Novakova Opatička Opatovina Palmotićeva Pantovčak Park Ribnjak Paromlinska

D-3 E-2 E-3 A-4 D-3 A-3 E-3 C-2 C-4 D-2 B-1 E-2 E-3 B-1 E-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-2 B-3 B-2 C-3 B-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B/C-4 C-1 E-1 C-4 B-1 C-1 D-3 C-2 D-1 C-1 C-1 D-3 A-2 D-1 C-4

Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šet.

B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2

Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Republike Hrvatske B-3 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1

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Karlovac City Museum

Dubovac Castle

Cultural and natural heritage within the Renaissance star-shaped fort

Witness of the centuries overlooking three modern countries and two historical empires

Vjekoslav Karas Gallery

Museum of the Homeland War Karlovac –Turanj

Contemporary art in Brutalist architecture

Contemporary history at the town gates

Muzeji grada Karlovca Karlovac City Museums

www.mgk.hr @muzejigradakarlovca