Sightseeing

essentiAl split

Do you know what is so eloquent about Split? The possibility to stroll through the Diocletian palace for free, to drink coffee inside the palace, to enjoy the sunshine, listen to the tender sounds of klape singing, to walk through this place where ancient people used to live.

diOCLETiAn’S PALACE (diOkLECijAnOvA PALAčA) A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian’s palace has become the quintessential “living museum”, as modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient palace complex. The part of the palace known as “the basement” was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now, it’s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures. QI/J‑2.

FiSH MARkET (RibARniCA) Upon entering, you might feel compelled to crack the classic, “Something’s fishy here…” joke, but please refrain – it’s been said before. What you can do is check out the hustle and bustle of weighing, cutting, haggling and trading that has been going on at this site since the fish market moved from its original location in the south-eastern part of the palace complex in 1843. The interesting smells emanating from the fish market might be compounded with another distinctive odor wafting through the air, that of sulphur. There’s a sulphur spa nearby whose smell frequently mingles with the smell of fish, creating a truly interesting amalgamation of aromas.QI‑2, Obrov 5. Open 06:00‑ 13:00; Sun 06:00‑12:00.

GREEn MARkET (PAzAR) Any traveller worth their salt wants to get real and rub elbows with some of the locals and Split’s Pazar is the place to go to satisfy that desire. Jump in and join in the hubbub going on, all dedicated to good ol’ small scale market capitalism. The buying and selling frenzy involves a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing and other odds and ends.QJ‑3.

GRGuR ninSki In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck).QJ‑2.

Photo by Samantha Hentosh/Unsplash

MARjAn PEninSuLA (MARjAn) When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia’s second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis.QA/B‑2/3.

RivA If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side. It’s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching. Split’s Riva continues westwards and is as picturesque as ever, perfect for a stroll, coffee, or relaxing on the deck chairs.QI‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda.

THE PERiSTyLE And THE CATHEdRAL OF ST dOMniuS (PERiSTiL i kATEdRALA Sv. dujMA) Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor’s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian’s victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.QJ‑2.

vELi vAROš Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.QH‑2.

MuseuMs

ARCHAEOLOGiCAL MuSEuM (ARHEOLOški MuzEj) Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including prehistoric, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC‑2, Zrinsko ‑ Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385‑21) 32 93 40, www.armus. hr. Open 09:00‑14:00, 16:00‑20:00; closed Sun. Admis‑ sion 20/10 kn.

CROATiAn MARiTiME MuSEuM SPLiT (HRvATSki POMORSki MuzEj SPLiT) Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you’ll miss out on many of Split’s more quirky delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It’s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the Whitehead-Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka. To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks – a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress. QK‑2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385‑21) 34 73 46, www.hpms.hr. Open 09:00‑20:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/10 kn.

ETHnOGRAPHiC MuSEuM SPLiT (ETnOGRAFSki MuzEj SPLiT) If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia’s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years.QJ‑3, Severova 1, tel. (+385‑21) 34 41 61, www. etnografski‑muzej‑split.hr. Open 09:30‑19:00; Sat 10:00‑17:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/10 kn. Vestibul 5 kn.

GAME OF THROnES MuSEuM The majestic HBO series has had many of its scenes recorded throughout Croatia, including Split. In-fact, only a stone throw from the museum itself is Diocletian’s basements where Khaleesi put the dragons in captivity. The museum includes weapon and garment replicas, several thematic rooms dedicated to key cities and characters, photographs taken on the film set, Sandor and more. Step aside and make space for some photos with the likes of Daenerys, Arya Stark, Jon Snow, Hodor and many others.QI‑2, Bosanska ulica 9, tel. (+385‑) 099 694 03 12, www.gameofthronesmuseum.hr. Open 09:00‑ 21:00. J ivAn MEšTROvić MuSEuMS - MEšTROvić GALLERy And THE CRikvinE - kAšTiLAC Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside religiouslyinspired works and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in 1962. A fiveminute walk further west along the same road is the Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a 16th-century agricultural fortified property bought by Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably the artist’s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of 35 years’ work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture. QB‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385‑ 21) 34 08 00, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 09:00‑19:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 20kn Children, 40kn Adults, 70kn Family.

MuSEuM OF CROATiAn ARCHAEOLOGiCAL MOnuMEnTS (MuzEj HRvATSkiH ARHEOLOškiH SPOMEnikA) Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.QA‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385‑21) 32 39 01/(+385‑ 21) 32 39 09, www.mhas‑split.hr. Open 09:00‑13:00, 17:00‑20:00; Sat 09:00‑14:00; closed Sun. Admission 20kn/10kn.

Galerija Meštrović Split

SCULPTURE MUSEUM

www.mestrovic.hr

MuSEuM OF FinE ARTS (GALERijA uMjETninA) Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. The museum’s temporary exhibitions blending local and international artists, site-specific audio installation in the museum’s atrium, as well as Art & Wine workshops open for applications, all add to the highly interesting and enriching experience. Current information on all the upcoming events can be viewed at the museum’s website. QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385‑21) 35 01 17, www.galum.hr. Open 10:00‑21:00; closed Mon. Ad‑ mission 30/20 kn Children, 60/40 kn Adults.

MuSEuM OF iLLuSiOnS The Museum of Illusions is an optical tour de force that’s a thrill for the whole family. In the heart of Splits’s old town, the museum is unique in this part of Europe. Trick your mind and your senses with an array of exhibitions that will change the way you see the world around you. Come take a tour of a place like no other. You won’t believe your eyes! Ticket price: Adults: 70,00 kn, Children (under 15 years old): 50,00 kn, Children under 5 years old: free, Family Ticket (2 adults + 2 children under 15 years old): 200,00 knQAndrija Kačić Miošić 2, tel. (+385 21) 48 00 14. Open 09:00‑22:00. J SPLiT CiTy MuSEuM (MuzEj GRAdA SPLiTA) The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s most respected families, built a small palace to serve as their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split.QJ‑2, Papalićeva 1, tel. (+385‑21) 36 01 71/(+385‑21) 36 01 72, www.mgst. net. Open 09:00‑20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00‑20:00. Admission 20/10 kn.

Read more reviews online: split.inyourpocket.com

To fully appreciate the stark majesty of the mid-Dalmatian landscape, you need to spend at least some time inland. The coast, with its sweeping pebble beaches and imperious mountains is only one side of the Dalmatian story. Delve beyond the coastal peaks and you will come across a dramatic combination of stony plateaus, fertile vales, river canyons, and mountains even more imposing than the ones you’ve just crossed.

Thirty-five kilometres inland from Split, the easy-going town of Sinj is the ideal place from which to explore this bewitching landscape. Sprawled across a fertile green carpet of rich agricultural land known as the Sinj Field (Sinjsko polje), the town is surrounded by the stark majesty of grey-brown highlands; while the furrowed gorges carved out of lime stone by the Cetina River lie only a short distance to the south and east. Whether you are into hiking, biking, fishing or simply looking, it’s an exhilarating place to be.

Sinj is also a town of immense historical symbolism, It owes its central place in the national narrative to the heroic defense of the town against an Ottoman army in 1715. The battle took place on the Feast of the Assumption, and Croatian victory is often attributed to the divine intervention of the Virgin Mary, whose fifteenth-century portrait is proudly displayed in the local parish church, a magnet for pilgrims to this day. Indeed Sinj remains southern Croatia’s most visited Marian shrine, with hundreds of thousands of celebrants making their way here annually to mark the Feast of the Assumption on August 15. The famous battle of 1715 is celebrated every year by the test of horsemanship known as the Sinjska Alka, when riders attempt to spear a dangling talismanic disk in front of large crowds over a weekend in early August. Descended from age-old equine competitions and featuring brightlyclad participants in distinctive traditional costume, the Alka is a key component in Croatian national identity and comes under the protection of the UNESCO World Heritage list. Best place to learn about the Alka is at the award-winning Sinjska Alka Museum, an engaging mixture of traditional exhibits and modern multimedia presentation. The recently refurbished Museum of the Cetina Region (Muzej cetinske krajine) will give you the lowdown on the region’s rich heritage, with a colourful display that takes in folklore and local crafts – including the traditional hand-turned pottery made in the nearby village of Potravlje.

Historical resonances aside, Sinj lays good claim to being the activity capital of inland Dalmatia. It has a hippodrome that hosts equine sports throughout the year, and an airfield that hosts parachuting and gliding events. A mountain ridge near the village of Hrvace, just north of town, is the starting point for breathtaking descents by paraglider. Sinj’s surrounding area offers a wealth of hiking and cycling trails. Potential targets for explorers should perhaps start with Visoka, the 892m peak above town. Topped by tenmetre-high cross, it’s a popular target for pilgrims as well as recreational hikers. Offering a bit more of a challenge is the 1509-metre Svilaja to the northwest, the summit of which provides breathtaking views of the surrounding highlands. Clearly visible to the northeast is the Dinara range, site of Croatia’s highest peak (the 1831-metre Sinjal) and also a protected area under the Dinara Nature Park.

For those into team-building activities and social sports, several local agencies offer zip-line adventures, paintball sessions and trips on local rivers.

Extraordinarily rich in landscape, culture and opportunities for an active holiday, the Sinj region is waiting to be discovered. More information is available on the local tourist board’s site www.visitsinj.com.

Photos by Sinj Tourist Board Archives