Makarska Riviera

kALALARGA (šiROkA uLiCA) Široka ulica is fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga – a Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by modern standards, but back in the day this was the very core of the town, the hub where everything was happening. Makarska’s Kalelarga winds through the town, the stone walls to each side of you providing welcome shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical Dalmatian style with green wooden shutters, wrought-iron railings and old-fashioned lanterns.QMakarska.

kOSTAnić’S GRAvE (kOSTAnićA GROb) The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered with very old gravestones called stećci (pronounced “stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery surrounding these stones, which date from the period between the 11th and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at the village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own legend. Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac and Dragimir Kostanić from Drvenik, were in love with the same girl, the daughter of a duke named Jurić from Gradac. They fought a duel which resulted in the death of Kostanić. The girl, who loved Kostanić more, died of grief on hearing the news. This is where Kostanić lies.QSela, nr. Drvenik.

MOnuMEnT TO THE TOuRiST (SPOMEnik TuRiSTu) Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tourism these days, so it’s only right that in 2006 this statue was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the centenary of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple taking a stroll along the waterfront. Look closely, and you’ll notice that the female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes, it’s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists the world over.QRiva waterfront, Makarska.

SkywALk biOkOvO Put your moonboots back in your backpack, Luke: this ain’t no walk on the moon but a fantastic new way to enjoy hiking on one of Croatia’s most magnificent mountain ranges - Biokovo. Soaring skywards from the fringes of the turquoise Adriatic, Biokovo is the highest mountain range closest to the coast in the entire Mediterranean. An awe-inspiring sight, Biokovo lends the Makarska Riviera the interplay of blue sea, sky and white stone that creates such a wonderful stage for those carefree seaside summers. However, the Biokovo Nature Park hides within it a wealth of natural and cultural treasures. A wonderful new viewing platform allowing you to experience the majesty of Biokovo was opened in July 2020 – the Skywalk. A horseshoe-shaped glass walkway juts out over a precipitous slope opening out towards the coast, affording breath-taking views. There is also a pillar showing a geological cross-section of the mountain with a legend showing the ages and types of stone. The Skywalk is right next to the Biokovo Nature Park Visitor Centre. To get there, from Makarska take the road to Vrgorac; the Visitor Centre is 6 km away. Do be aware the road presents challenging driving conditions. Visit info for opening times and additional safety information. A word of warning: it is easy to underestimate the challenges this mountain range presents. Do not head off for a trip into the mountains without hiking shoes, plenty of water, a map, sun protection, a mobile phone and clothing that will make it easy for rescue services to spot you if you get lost. Do not go alone. In August 2020 an experienced hiker was saved after more than 20 days stranded on dangerous terrain; rescue services had lost all hope of finding him alive. Stick to the designated paths!

Photo by Makarska Tourist Board Archives

STATuE OF dOn MiHOviL PAvLinOvić (kiP dOn MiHOviLA PAvLinOvićA) For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture. And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don Mihovil Pavlinović, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival, a political movement campaigning for the right to selfdetermination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora.

STATuE OF ST niCHOLAS (kiP Sv. nikOLE) Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an impressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who created the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in 1999.QBaška Voda.

STOnE TOwER (kAMEnA kuLA) During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more than 200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland lived in constant fear of raids. It’s not unusual, driving around the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings, creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Podaca dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is surrounded by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake. QGornja Podaca, nr. Gradac.

THE AnTun GOjAk TOwn GALLERy (GRAdSkA GALERijA AnTunA GOjAkA) The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988 by Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska’s Van Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska’s first town gallery in the building of the former grammar school. Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska’s cultural life.QUlica don Mi‑ hovila Pavlinovića 1, Makarska, tel. (+385‑21) 61 21 98, www.galerija‑antun‑gojak.hr. Depends on exhi‑ bitions. Admission free.

THE FRAnCiSCAn MOnASTERy OF THE ASSuMPTiOn OF THE bLESSEd viRGin MARy (SAMOSTAn bLAŽEnE djEviCE MARijE nA nEbO uznESEnE) The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia building their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and political opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely monastery you see today came into being. The old monastery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery served as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied natural sciences and humanities, founding a library which today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals, manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr. Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still active today and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological Museum, one of Makarska’s top attractions, is a respected institution with good links with similar museums around the world. The Institute also has a herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo and Adriatic regions.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385‑21) 61 22 59, www.franjevci‑ split.hr.

THE MALACOLOGiCAL MuSEuM (MALAkOLOški MuzEj MAkARSkA) Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and monk Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in the monastery. Created with painstaking attention to scientific detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden beauty in the world around us (including under the sea), Friar Radić created a collection that is the best of its kind in the country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that studies molluscs – a large branch of the animal kingdom that includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus and squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are about 3000 shells in the collection and a collection of invertebrate fossils. There’s also a collection on the flora of the Biokovo mountains and the Adriatic region. The collection of shells includes some spectacular specimens from the Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the world. So, whether you’re a budding biologist or a curious passer-by, there’s sure to be something that will take your breath away.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385‑21) 61 12 56/(+385‑) 099 885 21 65. Open 10:00 ‑ 12:00, 17:00 ‑ 19:00, Sun 10:00 ‑ 12:00. Admis‑ sion 15/10 kn.

THE MiLLSTOnES MOnuMEnT (kAMEni MLin) Tučepi’s olive oil press and oil-makers’ association were founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsaturated-style health today: Tučepi’s oil is among the most prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of millstones set on the waterfront.QTučepi.

THE ROCk OF bRELA (kAMEn bRELA) A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela’s gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual that is part of the Makarska Riviera’s very identity. The rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing please!QDugi rat Beach, Brela.

We suggest you explore the beaches and towns of Brela and Tučepi on the Makarska Riviera.

Photo by Brela Tourist Board Archives

bRELA A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump in and enjoy them is irresistible. This rock is the famous motif of the resort of Brela. It stands for the reasons why we love this coast: clean, deep waters great for swimming; azure seas and skies, the restorative scent and welcome shade of the pine forests. The beaches here have won numerous international accolades. Thanks to 6km of wonderful white pebble beaches with fabulous views, the ancient hillside settlement of Brela developed into a handsome resort. Beautiful beachside homes line the long promenade, and a handful of good hotels are hidden in thick pine woods. Steep paths head up the mountainside towards the older parts of the settlement. A local society is dedicated to preserving and showcasing the culture of old Brela: it’s well worth taking a trip up the mountain to Gornja Brela and popping into their visitor centre where you can find out about the old churches, chapels and archaeological treasures dotted around. Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point for exploring the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst landscapes, endemic species, incredible views and adventure sports challenges. You’ll find maps and information at the information centre that’s also located there. Brela Tourist Board, Trg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel. (+385-21) 61 84 55, info@brela.hr, www.brela.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. TučEPi A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime enjoyment, Tučepi boasts the longest beach on the Makarska Riviera – a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling easy access into the dazzling blue water. Tučepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riviera – the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after the Romans left, the population lived in constant fear of invasion. You’ll find a treasury of history and folk architecture and culture in the hillside villages: defensive towers and secret caves where the locals hid from the Ottoman armies; mediaeval chapels and churches, and rural stone buildings. In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy locals started to build fine villas along the seashore. The best-preserved example with a wonderful courtyard is today a good hotel, Hotel Kaštelet. Another villa in 1911 became the home of the Tučepi Oil Growers’ Collective, founded on the initiative of local priest and teacher Father Mate Šimić. It is probably due to the work done by him and the association that Tučepi’s olive oil is rumoured to be the best on this stretch of coast. Around these fine villas modern homes and hotels grew up in the 20th century. Low-rise and harmonious with white walls and terracotta rooftops, there’s a delightful air of breezy holiday chic. A summertime festival of culture starts on June 13, St. Anthony’s day (Tučepi’s patron saint), while the ka Kultura festival brings music, drama and art to the old hillside villages of Srida Sela, Podpeć, Čovići, Mravičići, Ševelji, Šimići and Podstup. Tučepi Tourist Board, Donji ratac 30, tel. (+385-21) 62 31 00, tzo-tucepi@st.t-com.hr, www.tucepi.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Photo by Tučepi Tourist Board Archives