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Restaurants

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Split Surroundings

Split Surroundings

Chock-a-block with all this food and influences from various parts of Dalmatia and Croatia, Split is rich in simple tasty dishes you have never heard of but once you taste them you will never forget. So, how do you go about tasting all this if you don’t have the good fortune of being invited to someone’s house where mama will surprise your taste buds? One option is to go exploring among the many konobas (traditional eateries which used to be wine cellars where you could slice some pršut and cheese or eat salted anchovies after a hard day’s work). You’ll find these kinds of restaurants scattered around the old city and the market.

Another option is to schedule your visit around the many gastronomic events happening all summer around Split, most of them based on a certain dish or ingredient. What sort of dishes should you look out for? It depends on the season. Local people tend to stick very much to what’s around at a given time of year rather than relying on greenhouse-grown produce or imports. So, in the spring, look out for dishes made with artichokes or for young broad beans prepared in a million different ways, for example with lamb, with squid ink… Mmm, it makes us hungry just thinking about it.

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Also watch out for divlje zelje, greens picked in the wild. Summer is a great time for a piece of fresh fish simply grilled and served with chard cooked with potatoes; a black squid ink risotto with a refreshing green salad, or the classic family meal of deep fried sardines, red mullet or anchovies and a tomato and cucumber salad. In cooler seasons meat comes more to the fore, often cooked with vegetables in a stew-type dish. Look out for aramabašići a speciality originating in Sinj, a little way inland. These are little soured cabbage parcels containing beef (and sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked dried meats. These, or their cousins sarma, are a must at every special occasion, as is a spit-roast lamb. If you keep out a sharp eye you might come across a pogača hailing from the island of Vis or Hvar, a flattish breadcake containing a mixture of salted anchovies and onion, plus tomato, capers and herbs depending on the version.

Or from inland, look out for soparnik, a flatbread stuffed with chard and spring onions, scattered with garlic and almonds and drizzled with olive oil. These are specialities you might find on sale at Pazar market. On a sweeter note, look out for compressed cakes of dried figs (smokvenjak), commonly made at home and truly delicious.

A speciality from the island of Hvar is forski medenjak, a biscuit made with olive oil and honey, though you’ll probably have to make a pilgrimage to the Nonica patisserie in Hvar town to find it. And if you are in Trogir, look out for rafiole. These are little half-moons made from almonds and maraschino liqueur. Legend has it they were invented by a girl named Rafiola who was imprisoned in the Kamerlengo fortress until her love, a Trogir noble, came to rescue her. She baked him these little cakes ‘til the end of her days as a mark of her gratitude. Working hours of restaurants, cafes and bars may change (for the better, we believe), in coordination with the state or local health officials.

AdRiAnA This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always attracts a crowd. Why? It’s a prime location for people watching and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends and sometimes on weekdays during summer time. Fairly priced!QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. (+385‑21) 34 00 00, www.hotel‑adriana.com/restaurant/. Open 07:00‑23:00. (75 ‑ 160kn). APGBJ ARTičOk This very cosy and sleek restaurant is all about attention to detail. Platters, soups, risottos, tuna, rabbit, mussels, homemade macaroni, anti-pasta and so much more to offer. A genuine touch of hedonism on the menu and why not! Gluten free options are also available. FYI, the Čok in ArtiČok is Dalmatian slang for a small bite, so the whole name actually refers to the art of eating!QI‑2, Josipa Jelačića 19, tel. (+385‑21) 81 93 24. Open 08:00‑22:30. (90 ‑ 200kn). APGSJK bAjAMOnTi Located in the Prokurative Square, Bajamonti is named after one of Split’s former mayors who built a theater in 1859, which was the most modern in Dalmatia at the time. Today, it is a restaurant-cafe that offers traditional Mediterranean meat and fish dishes. You can even pick a lobster of your choice from the fish tank!QC‑3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+385‑21) 34 10 33, www.restoran‑bajamonti. hr. Open 08:00‑23:00; Sun 09:00‑23:00. (80 ‑ 450kn). APGTBJ bEPA Located in the heart of the Old Town Split, on a historical Pjaca, this charming street food restaurant is the perfect spot for a hearty brunch offering fab various breakfast dishes from egg Benedict to avo egg, and waffles. Lunch is a must here as the natural shade and the green wooden tables and chairs on the outdoor terrace, give an earthy cool green peaceful feel to the place. Light lunch options are bountiful as are the portions and include salads, daily pasta options and burgers and sandwiches. Everyone is welcomed so even the most rigorous vegans will have delicious choices here. Visit for brunch from 07:00 - 17:00. At dinner time the team of the restaurant changes. Everything slows and becomes more romantic. The major delicacy on the menu are the speciality skewers grilled on open fire wood grill. The choices are many: tuna, shrimp, swordfish, beef, kefta, chicken… It is often a case to see guest come here twice a day as the quality and the price are a match and the scene is just the right amount of vibrant and historical.QI‑2, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385‑21) 35 55 46, www.bepa.hr. Open 08:00‑24:00. (45 ‑ 330kn). APGTBJ6

sYMBol keY

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled B Outside seating L Guarded parking S Take away 6 Pet-friendly J Old town location

biSTRO MAzzGOOn Nestled in a courtyard, the stone walls surrounding the outdoor terrace are tastefully decorated with greenery and fresh flowers adorn the tables, offering a homey and calming atmosphere. Delicious gnocchi and pasta dishes are offered, such as truffle pasta or pasta with sun dried tomatoes, as well as meat and fish dishes that will make your mouth water.QJ‑2, Bajamontijeva 1, tel. (+385‑) 098 987 77 80. Open 12:00‑23:30. (120 ‑ 220 kn). APGE6 bOkAMORRA PizzAuRAnT & COCkTAiLS An out of the ordinary pizzeria and cocktail bar. The pizza menu is brief, and the premium ingredients are sourced fresh in Italy or home-made onsite. The pizzas are light, soft, springy and tasty. Add a creative cocktail list and a vibrant interior (pizza oven clothed in golden mosaic) and you have a rather special experience.QC‑3, Obala Ante Trumbića 16, tel. (+385‑) 099 417 71 91. Open 12:00‑ 23:30. (65 ‑ 95kn). AP bOkERiA kiTCHEn & winE Simply put, this restaurant is stunning! Bokeria was inspired by the La Boqueira market in Barcelona. The modern and classy interior has smooth shelves lining the walls, which are stacked with wine bottles and liquor, while a mosaic tiled bar creates a spanish-like feel to the place. A massive chandelier hangs from a 850 meter chain in the middle of the room and extends over two floors. The restaurant offers simple Mediterranean meals and the menu is decided based on the season and the vegetables available. It’s located near Split’s market, which ensures that the ingredients are always fresh.QI‑2, Domaldova 8, tel. (+385‑21) 35 55 77. Open 09:00‑22:30. (110 ‑ 210kn). APGTBJ6 bRASSERiE On 7 Located along Split’s famous Riva waterfront overlooking the Adriatic. French gastronomy is combined with Croatian cuisine to create delicious dishes throughout the day. Breakfast includes French toast, eggs benedict, croissants, acai bowl, chia pudding, egg white omelette, your typical English style breakfast and homemade granola with muesli. Early birds can waddle in from 07:30 - 11:00. Lunch and dinner specialties include spinach and grilled octopus salad, veal fillet, 300grm rib eye steak, cheese platters, tuna steak and the Fruit de mer are just some of the appetizing Mediterranean meals available.QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385‑21) 27 82 33, www. brasserieon7.com. Open 08:0‑11:00, 12:00‑23:30. (98 ‑ 195 kn). APGTBJ6 CORTO MALTESE FREESTyLE FOOd Enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal set within brick walls and a wooden bar that provide for an American-like setting thus juxtaposing the Mediterranean cuisine on offer. You can get a variety of meals here, from fruit salad to fish and sandwiches. Their versatile menu will satisfy everyone’s taste buds. For the biggest meal of the day (09:00 - 12:00) there are a variety of scrambled eggs and omelettes, as well as sandwiches, fruit and cottage cheese and freshly squeezed juice.QI‑2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385‑21) 58 72 01/ (+385‑) 092 160 10 00, www.cortomaltese.rocks. Open 09:00‑23:00. (90 ‑ 180kn). APG TBEJ6 dujE This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports recreation centre – Koteks. It’s a classic family eatery with a predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines.QD‑2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. (+385‑21) 54 81 00, www.restoranduje.hr. Open 10:00‑17:00. (50 ‑ 150kn). APGBEL dvOR Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot for a delicious meal. Simply decorated with white walls and black-and-white photography, while green, pink and purple colourful chairs add splashes of colour to the place. Offering delectable Mediterranean dishes, as well as delicious desserts.QE‑3, Put Firula 14, tel. (+385‑21) 57 15 13. Open 12:00‑23:00. (160 ‑ 900kn). APGTB6 FiFE Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife’s only drawback is it’s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised the place so much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season.QH‑3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385‑21) 34 52 23. Open 07:00‑23:00. (50 ‑ 81kn). NPGB6 GALERijA FOOd Venture into this relatively new restaurant with a growing reputation for its vegetarian and vegan offer that is based on seitan and tofu dishes as well as fruit and veggies which are all purchased directly from local farmers. Healthy meals at top deals! The menu is seasonal and adapted to what is fresh. Other meals are typically Dalmatian and onus is placed on scrumptious desserts. Cosy with a splash of retro interior, small terrace too.QJ‑2, Vuškovićeva 3, tel. (+385‑) 098 939 54 18. Open 08:00‑11:00, 16:00‑23:00. (75 ‑ 190kn). APGB6

Photos by Višnja Arambašić

GALijA The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the bathroom but that’s all part of the fun. They serve a wide selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive portions.QI‑2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385‑21) 34 79 32, www.pizzeriagalija.com. Open 11:00‑23:00. (65 ‑ 100kn). APGB6 GREGO LEvAnTE Charming little restaurant, beamed ceilings and an original stone wall as part of the minimalist décor! That aside, the food is Croatian with a creative twist, lots of freshness about it and we suggest the risotto with cuttlefish or shrimp. Candlelit tables give it spark and the service is A+.QD‑3, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385‑) 091 204 22 22. Open 12:00‑22:00. (70 ‑ 150kn). NPGBJ6 kAnTun PAuLinA Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand on the corner serves them up right. There’s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street and watch the nighttime drama unfold.QI‑2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385‑21) 39 59 73. Open 08:00‑23:30; Sun 10:00‑23:30. (24 ‑ 43kn). NPGB kOd jOzE Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out.QJ‑2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385‑21) 34 73 97/(+385‑21) 34 82 54. Open 10:00‑23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00‑23:00. (50 ‑ 150kn). APGB6 kOnObA bARkAROLA Looking for a typical Dalmatian tavern overlooking the sea, then Barkarola is it! And of course, the menu is well stocked with seafood as well as steak, risotto, carpaccio, salad and mega platters. The selection of Croatian wines is considerable especially those from Dalmatia. With the marina in the foreground, it’s a nice place to wind down after a day of sightseeing.QE‑3, Šetalište Kalafata 2, tel. (+385‑) 097 629 11 74, www.barkarola.hr/. Open 08:00‑ 24:00. (65 ‑ 180kn). APGBSLK kOnObA nEvERA Ahoy matey! All aboard this fish restaurant decorated in a nautical style with an anchor, compass and fisherman statue, placed among the uber-chic stone wall interior and gorgeous mosaic glass lamps hanging over each table. A great place for when you’re in the mood for Mediterranean seafood cuisine, such as shrimp risotto, calamari, octopus salad and grilled fish.QE‑3, Put Firula 17, tel. (+385‑21) 38 87 36/(+385‑) 099 501 74 85. Open 11:00‑23:00. (60 ‑ 160kn). APGB6

kOnObA vAROš It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless.QH‑2, Ban Mlad‑ enova 9, tel. (+385‑21) 39 61 38, www.konobavaros.com. Open 09:00‑23:00. (60 ‑ 130kn). APGB MA:TOni This beautifully decorated restaurant is located in an arched room, adorned in warm cream tones with dark wooden tables. Metal doors and chandeliers give a Middle Ages feel to the place. They offer traditional Mediterranean food, using fresh seasonal ingredients, created with a contemporary twist.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385‑21) 27 84 57, www.ma‑toni.com. Open 12:30‑ 23:00; closed Mon. (78 ‑ 140 kn). APGTB6 MARSHAL Located in the Marmont Hotel, this charming and picturesque restaurant has a modern and cozy environment all rolled into one. They offer various types of breakfast combo meals, which include eggs, pastries, coffee and juice, such as the Continental Breakfast or Mediterranean Breakfast, to start your morning off right. For lunch and dinner, they offer cold and warm appetizers, soups and salads, as well as delicious risottos or meat and fish dishes. For a perfect end to any meal, order from a selection of homemade cakes, desserts and ice cream.QI‑2, Zadar‑ ska 13 (Hotel Marmont), tel. (+385‑21) 30 80 60, www. marmonthotel.com/restoran. Open 07:00‑22:00. (90 ‑ 250kn). APGBL6 MASLinA A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas and pasta.QI‑2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385‑21) 31 49 88. Open 12:00‑23:30. (50 ‑ 150kn). APGBJ6 nOSTRESS biSTRO Located on the famous Narodni trg, this ultra-chic bistro is decorated with an abundance of flower pots that adorn the terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic feel. It’s a great spot to chat with some friends or view the latest fashion trends walking by the square while nibbling on contemporary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian region. For your first meal of the day, the breakfast offer (08:00 - 11:30) consists of omelette, toast, eggs benedict and a hot cappuccino. Lunch and beyond includes wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese and beef fillet steak with creamy saffron sauce. During the summer season, it’s open until 02:00, making it a great place to enjoy a cocktail at night.QI‑2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385‑) 099 498 18 88, www.bistro‑nostress. com. Open 08:00‑23:30. (80 ‑ 200kn). ABEJ6 split.inyourpocket.com

oilY Fish

If you find yourself on a Friday at s fish market, you will surely notice the largest queue at the stands selling fresh sardines and anchovies. It is these types of oily fish that are sold the most, both because they are rather cheap, but more importantly, extremely healthy. In saying that, even if small oily fish such as sardines may catch the eye it is dentex, bream and bass that are highly sought after. So, it would seem that people survive on oily fish whilst dreaming of eating white fish, and for that matter, large tasty portions of it. To put it mildly, this is a somewhat unfair attitude towards a category of fish that has nurtured and raised generations along the entire coastline. It has high nutritional value, and historically it has fed many people in these parts because it is cheap and widely available.

Oily fish is not just to be thrown on the barbecue, but one can work hundreds of miracles with it. We suggest a simple dish, as prepared on the Adriatic islands, and it can stay in the fridge for a long time and be eaten as a cold appetizer.

Ingredients 500g sardines 250g purple onion 0.75l wine vinegar 150ml olive oil 3 bay leaves 1 sprig rosemary 1 teaspoon sugar parsley leaf sharp flour oil, salt, peppercorns

Preparation steps Clean the sardines (remove the head and flakes). Add salt, roll in flour and fry in oil. Place on kitchen paper to soak up excess fat. In another pan on olive oil, brown the onion chopped into crescents. Season with salt, pepper, bay leaf and rosemary. Add raisins: and if you don’t like them, you can do without and the boiled savur. Make savur from olive oil, yeast, water, a little parsley, lemon zest, a little sugar, sprigs of rosemary, bay leaf and peppercorns. Place the roasted sardines in a bowl and pour the chilled savur over them. You can keep sardines prepared in this way for up to a week or two in the refrigerator

Serving Serve cold and garnish with lemon slices.

Advice You can also prepare a larger blue fish in the same way, just cut it into smaller pieces.

Read more reviews online: split.inyourpocket.com

nOšTROMO Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.QI‑2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385‑) 091 405 66 66, www. restoran‑nostromo.hr. Open 11:00‑23:00. (150 ‑ 250kn). APGB6 RizzO Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a midday or midnight snack.QI‑2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385‑ 21) 34 83 49/(+385‑) 091 574 07 64, www.rizzo.com. hr. Open 08:00‑23:00; Sun 10:00‑23:00. (12 ‑ 30kn). NB SExy COw With rave reviews online, ‘Sexy Cow’ is a great addition to the city food offer and the menu is packed with awesome ‘wraps & tortillas’ filled with heaps of ingredients, local too. The beef, veg and chicken wraps rock, the French-fries and sauces are also a great addition. Whereas the Nutella Boom Shake is a quench for hunger. As the locals say, come and visit the ‘new cow on the block’.QI‑1, Zrinsko Frankopan‑ ska 6, tel. (+385‑21) 78 07 82, www.sexy‑cow.com. Open 11:00‑23:00. (48 ‑ 69kn). APGTBSJK SuPERFOOd juiCE&SMOOTHiE bAR Health is wealth and this bar is on par with the best! Opened in 2016, it’s open from morning till night and the ‘a.m.’ menu includes omelette with goat’s cheese to healthy bread with bio marmalade. Meals at ‘p.m.’ include tuna pizza, veggie burgers, raw cakes, superfood, stews, salads and more. Juices & smoothies are mega! Gluten free, vegans and vegetarians ought to relish this place.QF‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 13, tel. (+385‑21) 67 12 55. Open 08:00‑22:30; closed Sun. (25 ‑ 100 kn). APGTBSK šPERun A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special is often a good bet. QH‑2, Šperun 3, tel. (+385‑21) 34 69 99/(+385‑) 091 555 42 62. Open 09:00‑23:00. (45 ‑ 180kn). APGBJ TOTO’S buRGER bAR A buzz for burgers ranging from classic types to original and innovative sorts can be had; both meat and veggie. Spaghetti, soups, juices and salads are also on the menu! Their breakfast and dessert offer has just been released, lots of omelettes & yoghurt cups, as well as sugar and gluten free cakes.QH‑2/3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+385‑21) 31 40 40. Open 11:00‑23:45. (48 ‑ 95 kn). NPS6 uP CAFé An ultra-modern chic oasis of healthy food and natural beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredients, without any additives. Rise and shine for breakfast which includes freshly squeezed juice, burritos, cakes, pies, buckwheat porridge, and oatmeal. This healthy cuisine offers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such as tofu burritos, miso soup, hemp burgers and baked vegetable crepes with cheese. All natural sweets to munch on for dessert such as a bajadera biscuits, raffaello squares, microbiological nougat squares, these taste great along with bio-fruit juice or organic tea.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www.upcafe.hr. Open 07:00‑20:00; Sat 08:00‑17:00; closed Sun. (65 ‑ 75kn). NPGBV6 zLATnA RibiCA Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in.QI‑2, Kraj Svete Marije 8, tel. (+385‑21) 34 87 10/(+385‑) 091 767 71 69. Open 06:00‑22:00; Sun 11:00‑22:00. (50 ‑ 90kn). NPG zOí It is said that you should let go of the past but restaurant Zoí definitely doesn’t. In fact, the Emperor’s dining room was once right next to the restaurant, giving this place a special historical feel. Zoí (Greek for “life”) offers a unique experience, embedding food from the ancient trade routes from Lebanon to Greece, Italy, France and the Balkans. Cultures and music entwine with wine and delicacies that are fine, and the décor is all stone and modern elegance. The terrace overlooking the sea is sublime with the vibe of the town just beneath you. That this is an unforgettable and sensual experience is now recognised by Michelin, who awarded Zoí two forks and spoons denoting comfort and quality. QJ‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 23, tel. (+385‑ 21) 63 74 91, www.zoi.hr. Open 17:00‑23:30. (180 ‑ 280kn). APTBJ6

sweet treAts

bObiS - RivA A Split institution, Bobis has been providing the city’s citizens with delectable eats since 1950. There are a load of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has arguably the best location, as it’s right on the Riva. You can match your coffee with an appropriate pastry or choose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike around Marjan.QI‑3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda 20, www. bobis.hr/. Open 06:00‑24:00. NGB GOLuzARijE Got a sweet tooth? Want something light’n’fresh? Goluzarije is a funky little patisserie/cake and coffee shop that prides itself exclusively on traditional cakes made according to traditional recipes.QI/D‑2, Ulica Zrinsko Frankopanska 1, tel. (+385‑21) 41 24 12. Open 07:00‑ 23:00.

LukA iCE-CREAM & CAkES Known as one of the best places for ice cream in Split, these delicious homemade ice cream flavours will have you coming back over and over again for more. Every day they produce new flavours made with fresh ingredients, so you’ll never get bored trying all the flavours. As well, they also serve tasty pie, cheesecake and smoothies.QI‑1, Petra Svačića 2, tel. (+385‑) 091 908 06 78. Open 08:00‑ 24:00. NPGBJ6 facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Luka Icecream Archives

O’š kOLAč? Oš kolač is paradise for lovers of fine pastries, cakes, pancakes, biscuits and handmade creams. Pastry chef Tea Mamut has served famous movie stars whilst working abroad and now returns home where she combines Dalmatian recipes with a refreshing modern day outlook whilst using a selection of local fresh ingredients. So why not treat yourself to something sweet?QI‑1, Ćiril‑Metodova 4, tel. (+385‑21) 48 04 44/(+385‑) 099 480 44 45, www.oskolac.hr/. Open 09:00‑21:00; closed Sun. APGBJ6 STARi PLAC PAnCAkES If you’re feeling peckish and savouring something sweet, then head to ‘Stari Plac’ which has quickly become a fav amongst ‘Splićani’. With a whopping 60 salty and sweet pancakes on offer, you’re bound to go haywire with such abundance. They also serve gluten free and protein pancakes with oats, not to mentioned freshly squeezed juice and ice-cream. How can you resist that? Also at Boškovićeva 9, E-3.QI‑1, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385‑21) 54 00 88. Open 07:00‑23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00‑24:00. APTBSJ TRAdiCijA This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition – just as the name itself!QI‑2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385‑ 21) 36 10 70. Open 08:00‑20:00; closed Sun. NPS Summer 2021 19

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