Date Night Destinations The restaurants to book when you’re out to impress

Date Night Destinations

Three new restaurants that are sure to impress, whether your plus one likes things low key or positively lavish

THE COOL KID

Laura Wood visits Heron, Edinburgh’s newest –and coolest– fine dining restaurant

If memory serves me well, the last time I was in the building that’s now home to Leith’s newest restaurant was one New Year’s Day back in the ‘90s. There was a small crowd of us feeding the hangover with a carb laden curry from one of our locals, The Raj on The Shore. How times have changed. Over the years, Leith’s been known for its talented chefs and Michelin stars but now, the lads behind Heron bring a certain type of restaurant to the area that’s not been here before

Following the success of their at home fine dining pop-up, Bad Seeds, which they launched only when we were told that we couldn’t go to restaurants for a while, chefs Tomás Gormley and Sam Yorke (who have notched up experience in some of the best restaurants around including The Lookout, Castle Terrace and Andrew Fairlie) have created a farm to table, relaxed fine dining restaurant, and it’s a far cry from the place I once knew, in a really good way.

It’s light, breezy and natural with the lovely big windows looking over to the Water of Leith (and some of its random goings on). There’s an easy-going Scandi feel about the place – and a simplistic approach to design through the décor and finishing touches. And I guess that’s a sign and starting point to the subtle consideration that’s placed on everything, from the service and surroundings to the wine list and dishes created in the kitchen.

Each plate is a work of art, served on the equally beautiful crockery designed and made by local ceramicist Borja Moronta, but it’s definitely not all style over substance. Simple in its form, the menu lists only the ingredients so there’s an element of surprise, mostly a delightful one, in how the ingredients are cooked and presented. As an example, the crab claw/tomato/rye/strawberry starter comes as a summer soup with dressed crab served on rye bread; the mackerel/ gooseberry/taramasalata/ apple is cured, fresh, and rich in flavour and texture, just the way I like it. The menu at Heron changes regularly though with an absolute focus on seasonal produce, and, as we head into autumn, the vibrant, sharp and zesty flavours we experienced in August will no doubt be replaced by more earthy tastes and colours. But, whatever is on the menu on the day of your visit, I can guarantee the chefs have considered how to add a creative twist to the ingredients to allow the quality produce a chance to shine.

Heron is a great addition to the restaurant scene in Leith. It’s fresh and different, and I hope that it’s here for years to come.

Heron, 87 Henderson St, EH6 6ED, 0131 554 1242, www.heron.scot Open for dinner Wednesday to Sunday; Three course lunch served Friday to Saturday

THE OUT-OFTOWNER

Jo Morris heads north for an unforgettable culinary experience at The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant

Tucked away in a corner of Perthshire, in an impossibly idyllic village, Glenturret distillery has recently undergone a huge refurbishment at the hands of new French owners Lalique. The transformation of the historic distillery has culminated in the creation of The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant, an impressive new restaurant at the heart of the distillery. The luxurious dining experience is a reimagined whisky homage to the French vineyards that seamlessly sew gastronomy into the wine tasting experience.

After our drive from Edinburgh, my partner and I arrive ravenous, excited about the 12-course tasting menu we are about to tuck into, though slightly nervous that our appetites might not have the patience. Thankfully, the ebb and flow of the courses is beautifully measured and nothing is deemed too big or, indeed, too small.

We opt for the paired wine option which takes us on a journey of the senses, in particular the bold choice of sake (don’t worry they have a backup wine should you prefer.) Then the meal starts with ‘snacks’ which seems like a woefully inadequate term to describe the three amuse bouche we are presented with: raspberry and liver; raw cherrystone clam, eaten like an oyster but with twice the flavour punch; and a miniature tattie scone topped with highland Wagyu. Snacks devoured, the bread is presented like a perfectly wrapped gift, homemade with house cultured butter. Divine.

The following courses of lightly barbecued mackerel, a stunning langoustine dish, a fun bisque-it (actually a delicious fish-y biscuit) are peerless. All expertly prepared and served. The bream and beef courses are slightly heartier and just as good, cleansed with a kumquat penicillin, a sour fruit shot to cut through the flavours.

Desserts are rich and delicious, a strawberry and celery confection followed by the chocolatey mille feuille. Just as we are about to admit defeat, the sweetie box arrives - a bespoke handcrafted wooden box whose drawers and secret compartments are stuffed full of treats, from sublime aerated chocolates to delicate gummies to filled fine chocolates.

Overall, the meal is a triumph. Chef Mark Donald latterly of Number One restaurant at The Balmoral is clearly excited about food and it shows. And while the dining room is full-on French luxe, the service is a tribute to warm Scottish hospitality - charming, attentive but not over the top as can sometimes be the case with a menu degustation. We loved our special evening out of town. The Glenturret Lalique is well worth travelling to.

The Glenturret Distillery, The Hosh, Crieff PH7 4HA, www.theglenturretrestaurant.com Multi course gastronomic tasting or vegetarian menus, £110 per person. Dedicated wine flight, £90 per person.

THE BOY NEXT DOOR

Laura Wood soon understands why new neighbourhood restaurant The Palmerston is the talk of the town

As I type, I’m eating possibly the best pain aux raisin I’ve tried in over a decade, and I’m not exaggerating either. It’s a take-home gift from The Palmerston, to celebrate the restaurant’s opening mid-August (perks of the job). I’m not even eating it warm but it’s dense, flaky, buttery and filled with a good amount of custard and raisins. And it was made in the rather excellent inhouse bakery, situated downstairs at the restaurant. The sourdough served before last night’s dinner is also made on site and it’s pretty darn perfect too. Thankfully, all the goods - cakes, pastries and bread - are available to take away or are served daily from 9am, and I predict this will be the go-to coffee house and neighbourhood café in the West End when word gets out.

The Palmerston is being touted as a relaxed, neighbourhood restaurant which is a great description. But it’s also so much more. This is a new concept in restaurants and part of a new breed of dining experiences in the city. The building (a former bank) is ornate and beautiful, but the décor is stripped back, simple, and comfortable. You’ve got to love the current use of the original vault as a wine cellar; that’s upcycling at its best. The staff here also know what they’re doing, and the service is fronted by a great team and knowledgeable wine expert. Coowner James Snowdon (who you’ll get to know as he works front of house) says he’s particularly looking forward to Sunday sessions when the menu will focus on dishes that are perfect for sharing, adding to the laidback and casual vibes.

But as you’d expect from a topnotch restaurant, it’s the food here that’s really got me going. Maybe I’m over-excited to be back eating in restaurants after a long time away, or maybe it’s just my type of cooking. Whatever the reason, the grilled mackerel with butter beans, roast peppers, and salmoriglio (a zesty and herby Italian dressing), is offthe-scale good. Cooked simply but beautifully allowing the flavours and ingredients to shine. Apparently, the roast venison, spinach and girolles is just as good, and the Rum baba for two as dessert packs a pleasing punch that leaves even the savoury lover amongst us wishing for more.

Co-owner Lloyd Morse heads up the kitchen and shares Snowdon’s vision of creating a laidback space known for its ingredients-first approach to cooking. These guys are working with the finest growers, farmers and suppliers in Scotland and the UK, to fill their kitchen with the best seasonal ingredients and make it a sustainable one. The menu is small with three starters, mains, and desserts to choose from but it’s ever-changing and comes with the guarantee that the ingredients are treated with love, respect and a touch of flair. That’s what I’m talking about and I’m sure you will be soon.

The Palmerston, 1 Palmerston Place, EH12 5AL, thepalmerstonedinburgh.co.uk Open Tuesday - Sunday from 9am to late

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