Date Night Destinations Three new restaurants that are sure to impress, whether your plus one likes things low key or positively lavish
THE COOL KID
Laura Wood visits Heron, Edinburgh’s newest – and coolest– fine dining restaurant
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f memory serves me well, the last time I was in the building that’s now home to Leith’s newest restaurant was one New Year’s Day back in the ‘90s. There was a small crowd of us feeding the hangover with a carb laden curry from one of our locals, The Raj on The Shore. How times have changed. Over the years, Leith’s been known for its talented chefs and Michelin stars but now, the lads behind Heron bring a certain type of restaurant to the area that’s not been here before Following the success of their at home fine dining pop-up, Bad Seeds, which they launched only when we were told that we couldn’t go to restaurants for a while, chefs Tomás Gormley and Sam Yorke (who have notched up experience in some of the best restaurants around including The Lookout, Castle Terrace and Andrew Fairlie) have created a farm to table, relaxed fine dining restaurant, and it’s a far cry from the place I once knew, in a really good way. It’s light, breezy and natural with the lovely big windows looking over to the Water of Leith (and some of its random goings on). There’s an easy-going Scandi feel about the
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place – and a simplistic approach to design through the décor and finishing touches. And I guess that’s a sign and starting point to the subtle consideration that’s placed on everything, from the service and surroundings to the wine list and dishes created in the kitchen. Each plate is a work of art, served on the equally beautiful crockery designed and made by local ceramicist Borja Moronta, but it’s definitely not all style over substance. Simple in its form, the menu lists only the ingredients so there’s an element of surprise, mostly a delightful one, in how the ingredients are cooked and presented. As an example, the crab claw/tomato/rye/strawberry starter comes as a summer soup with dressed crab served on rye bread; the mackerel/ gooseberry/taramasalata/ apple is cured, fresh, and rich in flavour and texture, just the way I like it. The menu at Heron changes
regularly though with an absolute focus on seasonal produce, and, as we head into autumn, the vibrant, sharp and zesty flavours we experienced in August will no doubt be replaced by more earthy tastes and colours. But, whatever is on the menu on the day of your visit, I can guarantee the chefs have considered how to add a creative twist to the ingredients to allow the quality produce a chance to shine. Heron is a great addition to the restaurant scene in Leith. It’s fresh and different, and I hope that it’s here for years to come. Heron, 87 Henderson St, EH6 6ED, 0131 554 1242, www.heron.scot Open for dinner Wednesday to Sunday; Three course lunch served Friday to Saturday
