Hat Channel Mag - June 2020

H AT S O F F TO. .

BUIO

June 2020

P E RN W B UCM KDO LO

ISSU

E

Buio explains her winning creation.

T H E R E I S A H AT TO S U I T E V E R YO N E Fashion stylist Deni Kiro tells us there is a hat to suit everyone!

D O YO U N E E D TO R E VA M P YO U R O L D H AT ?

We are all looking forward to the day we can step outside and can enjoy dressing up again. Your hats may need a small touch up before making that step.

Read Tricia’s top tips for bringing your old hats back to life.

A CIRCLE

OF CARE

We are currently living through a period of extreme uncertainty.

Our lives are in the hands of the heroes at the NHS, and the hats they wear in our eyes, are crowns.

W E LC O M E Dear Readers of The Hat Channel Magazine,

our couture future.

This issue takes us on a journey into ‘The World of

The exquisite designs for the

Hats’. We have opportunities before us and look

head are explained by

forward to our way ahead.

‘Giulia Mio Millinery’ to stretch our imagination. Her

Hats are more important to us now than ever

thinking will open up your

before. Here and now is history in the making. We

thoughts on hat styles for the

are walking around outside with our families.

future which may give you ideas to help you

Everyone needs to protect their head, or ‘bean’ (an

choose your next hat.

old English word for head) - did you know that’s where the name beanie comes from?

The ‘Hats at Home’ segment discusses a practical approach to repurpose that ‘old hat’ of yours.

The Hat Channel Magazine is opening our eyes to the possibilities of headgear by giving insights on

As we move forward, The Hat Channel Magazine

designer’s approaches to creative projects.

looks at the role of hats in our lives. How hats make statements and where they sit in our everyday

A scoop interview with Buio in Italy just before she

routines. It is a mesh of hats that strike a chord in

won her prestigious award with HATalk was a

history, see changing trends and drive

delight. We were honoured that Buio agreed to

interest into the future.

speak with us. You can see her magnificent winning hat, a sculpture for the head, that link her ideas to the finished piece in a unique and alluring way.

Hats are everywhere. Protective clothing is essential in our hospitals and required in these times. No stone can be left unturned in our battle against the coronavirus touching our lives. Masks have become a controversial topic. More masks are being made and worn. They may turn into the newest fashion accessory for 2020. Furthermore, hats that show authority are prominent now. Police uniforms are only complete with a custodian hat, for the ‘Bobby on the beat’ to a bowler for the police women. Military uniforms and many other services follow this same discipline.

Fashion flair and glamour are added with insights from a famous London stylist, Deni. A treat from the red carpet of the catwalk at SS20, Marie Sansome, shares her fashion ideas while keeping her feet firmly on the ground for sustainable approaches to

T H E H ATC H A N N E L . C O M

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H AT S O F F TO YO U A L L .

@ H ATC H A N N E LT V

@ T H E H AT H I S TO R I A N

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A CIRCLE OF CARE

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H AT S O F F TO. .

BUIO - OUR AWARD WINNING MILLINER

12

“J U S T C H I L L , I T ’ S A H AT ! ”

15

T H E L A N G UA G E O F H AT S

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C AT W A L K M AG I C

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H O W TO. .

R E VA M P YO U R H AT

TA B L E O F

CONTENTS COPYRIGHT © 2020 THE HAT CHANNEL LTD. The Hat Channel Mag is published by The Hat Channel Magazine.

Editorial: editor@thehatchannel.com | Advertising: sales@thehatchannel.com

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T H E H I S TO R Y O F. .

T H E C O S S A C K H AT

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T H E R E ’ S A H AT TO S U I T E V E R YO N E

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Telephone: 020 3282 6623 | Website: www.thehatchannel.com Head office: Suite 2, 14 Union Street, Stroud, Glos, GL5 2HE London office: Great Portland Street, London, W1W 7LT No material may be reproduced in any way, or translated, without written permission of the publishers.

Disclaimer: Every effort has been made to ensure that adverts and articles appear correctly, but The Hat Channel cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of the publication.

The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor.

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDIT. Page 8: Tullio Deorsola, Photographer | Page 12: IsoElegant Photography Page 27: Panama Hat Company

H AT S S E E N THIS SEASON

28

W H AT ’ S I N T H E NEXT ISSUE

feature article | 04

At this time, we are surrounded by hats.

They take different

straw, breathe, we can

us all. No one was

guises, from

take a drum roll and run

prepared for it. We didn’t

authoritarian to

with it.

expect it. Our lives have

protection and a vast number of areas in between.

Our key workers have the most hats to wear. We are all adapting to life in the confinement of our own homes. Each member of the household has to make an effort to create harmony for all. A new ‘virtual’ hat for every unfamiliar scene, as tempers fray and we reach the last

changed forever. Our ‘Lockdown’, it came upon

OUR LIVES H AV E CHANGED FOREVER.

hearts go out to the grief stricken. Condolences are sent to the families and friends that have been touched by Covid-19.

the circle of care | 05

Doctors began to wear

ship scrubs to the

masks and gloves to

hospitals in need.

guard against the

Different fabrics support

Spanish flu epidemic in 1918. Our medical

health service. People all

staff wear hats

over the country have

and scrubs

taken on the stoic task of

now. This

making individual scrub

began in

sets to stem the

1940, when

SO MANY SERVICES PUT T H E M S E LV E S AT R I S K E V E R Y DAY TO H E L P T H E I R C O M M U N I T Y.

anaesthesia and operations were carried out in sterile settings.

We

particular jobs in the

Use of a complete kit was

are all within reach of its

formalised in the 1950s

persistent grasp. The

with a whole outfit

current crisis has created

including surgical caps,

“They’re changing guard

a wave of loneliness with

hair and beard covers

at Buckingham Palace,”

vulnerable groups more

and bouffant caps.

from the poem by A.A.

likely to need our help

increasing demand.

Milne, this hasn’t

and support. People are

As stocks of these

focused on getting

essential items are

through this time. Life will

running low, a cry

not be the same at the

for help has been

other end of the tunnel.

launched for clothing

Nurses have cared for

manufacturers and

patients for over 200

the general public

years, associated with a

to help. Barbour™

stiff white cap and white

was quick off the

apron; they look after the

mark as they, and

sick in this recognisable

many other

and cherished uniform.

designer brands,

Picture: NNP

feature article | 06

‘buffetier’. The

The police and army use

Queen’s Guard are

hats and caps to

trained to look after

distinguish themselves as

the royal household

bodies of authority to

and their bearskin

uphold the law and

hats date back to

contain unrest. Rank is

changed since the time

Napoleon and the Battle

defined with caps, motifs

of ‘Winnie the Pooh’! The

of Waterloo.

and uniform, while

Queen’s crown and

protective clothing is

jewels are housed

worn when deployment is

in the Tower of

required. These change

London and, more recently, the ‘church plate’ from all London centres of worship for safety at this time

AS INDIVIDUALS WE ARE SMALL, TO G E T H E R W E A R E A F O R C E TO B E R E C KO N E D WITH.

when churches are closed. These are

over time. Police helmets

looked after by the

for the Bobby on the beat

Yeoman Warders

created a distinctive

nicknamed,

silhouette back in the

‘Beefeaters’ from

day.

the French,

the circle of care | 07

Key-workers have come to the foreground, from medical personnel to supermarket staff and everyone in between, too many to mention, in this cycle of living.

We are all so grateful; so many services put themselves at risk

often hidden from view.

new jobs to adapt to. It is

everyday to help their

Tucked into their world,

not easy, each part of our

community. Their hats

we should add a halo, for

lives need a ‘new virtual‘

are sometimes visible but

their compassion,

hat, a large spoon of

humility and strength.

patience, a giant helping

NO ONE KNOWS W H AT T H E FUTURE WILL BRING.

of humour, with a As individuals we are

sprinkling of hope. It’s a

small, together we are a

huge step for neighbours

force to be reckoned

to rally together, friends

with. In isolation, we have

unite, while key-workers toil on and on with twelve hour shifts. Our children have lost a little piece of their childhood. No one knows what the future will bring.

We all clap for our carers and take our ‘invisible’ hats off to them.

hats off to.. | 08

BUIO

OUR AWARDWINNING MILLINER B U I O ’ S H AT S A R E F LY I N G : “WE ARE EVERYTHING, W E A R E T I M E L E S S B E AT I N G H E A R T S , CHILDREN OF A FRACTION OF TIME. F O R T H E L A S T U N TO U C H E D F LO W E R , F O R T H E L A S T N OT G I V E N K I S S , I ’ M G O N N A R I P O U T M Y H E A R T AT T H E ‘ F I N A L J U D G M E N T ’, AND MY DREAMS WILL BE DRIPPING THROUGH MY FINGERS, A S L A S T R E G R E T.” BUIO 2020

Buio - Our award winning milliner | 09

A mysterious blend of

discussed it at length. He

different, the shapes

passion, intertwined with

wanted to paint it. In fact,

connect and ideas

a hint of Victorian

he was willing to buy it.

culminate and form as

glamour. Injected with a

Buio declined his money

the elements intertwine.

romantic Gothic feel to

and offered to lend her

expose underlying

magnificent headgear for

A ‘Timeless’ theme

emotions and transform

the painting. They have

evoked a drama of fire

ideas into hats.

continued this

that could not be quelled.

partnership ever since.

Immersed in high quality

This magic takes place in

Every part of her

textiles, surrounded by a

Buio’s studio, deep in the

creations are done with a

range of emotions, they

heart of Turino. Our award-winning Milliner, wrapped in silk, tucked, seamed, twisted and turned with natural fibres

ignited charged energy

BUIO CRAFTS WITH HER HANDS AND E M OT I O N S .

that have been worked in

together. Buio reached into the inner depths of her own tragic history.

Feelings of grief are captured as the clock

a labour of love and

focus on the whole and

stands still in that

crafted into a formation

of the detail. No part is

moment in time. Similar

that reflects a narrative.

left to chance. Buio crafts

to a Shakespearean

Bejewelled and treasured

with her hands and

tragedy, the heroine’s

hats by Buio stand out as

emotions. Her talent is

untimely death

‘one of a kind’.

driven by her feelings in

immortalises her forever.

the creative process.

Influenced by ‘Degas’ from a young age, she began to ‘play’ with fabrics. One of her early headpieces in her father’s shop window attracted an artist across the threshold. They

Every headpiece is

Buio came to create a

hats off to.. | 10

remarkable ‘Final

They offered more light

Judgment’. This takes life and the fragile balance of beating hearts and as the last day of life. This left no chance for a final kiss.

personal goal is to display her hats on a

SHE EMPHASISED T H AT N AT U R A L M AT E R I A L S A R E OUR LIFE AND FUTURE.

Linked to the metaphoric

global catwalk and share her passion for hats from her studio in Southern Italy to a world stage.

Each step brings her

representation of the

and movement within

impact of life lost and

each element of the hat.

love not forgotten.

She emphasised that

She is always pushing

Written by Buio, “I’m

natural materials are our

herself. Being self-taught,

gonna rip out my heart at

life and future. A palette

she makes it her mission

the Final Judgment, and

of black, green and red

to achieve the designs

my dreams will be

adorn her hats in a

that she has formulated in

dripping through my

marriage of colours.

her head. What a

fingers, as last regret.”

Embroidery is worked

customer wants, their

This resonates with the

into the right places,

character and personality

gravity of a situation that

positioning is very

all present in the hat

changed everything, but

important. Handmade

making process. She

the loss is not lost. Loved

lace is painted to

explained that she puts

ones embrace the

highlight the colour she

her ‘soul’ into her hat

memory for eternity.

wants. She can add a

making. You have to

‘touch’ of colour.

understand the client, so

Within this form, I asked

Everything is a journey

that you can move

Buio to explain her

towards the goal.

forward.

began with the rich,

When asked what makes

When asked how we

textured, natural fabrics.

a hat ‘magic’ it was an

could buy a hat, she

She pointed out that

easy answer. Buio said, it

explained that you need

polyesters and chemicals

is the wearer that makes a

to contact her directly so

in materials were no use.

hat ‘magic’. They bring it

that she can make a hat,

The crisp delicate and

to life and it starts a new

“just for you”.

tactile pieces were

journey with the new

needed to make this hat.

owner of the hat. Her

nearer to this.

creation in detail. It all

F O L LO W O N I G @ B U I O. _ . _

a sneak peek | 12

studies with historical costume took her into the world of corsets, embroidery and dying methods and many more handcraft skills. She needed to make a headpiece for her course project; in-depth research was required. Her passion was ignited and her thirst for knowledge was set on fire. Her desire to create a piece that is ‘part of the head’ gives her fantastic positioning with her customers. She has to meet or talk on Skype with them to read and interpret their inner character, Giulia at ‘Giulia Mio Millinery’ gave an

before she is able to take the next steps

in-depth interview on her fantastic

in the design process. Their personal

millinery work. She shared her unique

aspirations have a leading part to play

background, her approach to her

in the final piece. It also includes the

creative process and the needs of her

build up of trust and opportunities to

wonderful customers. She also

push their personal boundaries in their

revealed some of her ideas in hat

creative horizons. Everyone has a

making, her wild ideas and a glimpse

different image which is incorporated

of the detail she incorporates into

into the final magnificent look.

every piece of headgear. The influences that give her headpieces their showstopper qualities and how customers can approach hats in the future.

It was fascinating to discover that Giulia ‘fell’ into millinery work while studying her Masters in Milan, the home of millinery couture. Her

just chill, it’s a hat | 13

with silk flowers and handmade delicate details, offers ornamentation that wraps beautifully around the head. Some classic delicate colour combinations with a few surprises from the palette too.

Her creations are a sculpture for the head. One amazing signature piece is ‘Aki’, meaning autumn in Japanese, Influences for Giulia involve images and

was inspired by a Japanese garden in

a narrative. There is no set pattern, so

the autumn. This dynamic piece shows

current fashion trends do not feature in

the leaves and

her work. She uses other elements from

flowers in the wind

life and has a fond link to all things

as they lift up. The

Japanese, so there is often a Japanese

H E R C R E AT I O N S H AV E A N E M B R YO N I C G R O W T H

leaves are Ginkgo and Japanese Maple

twist in her designs. Her attention to

intertwined with

detail is extraordinary. From silk flowers

various flower forms

to incandescent feathers to sculptured wiring, her creations have an embryonic growth to become a clear and cutting edge form.

You heard it here first, her new collection is phenomenal. Our sneak peek unveils ‘The Glamorous Gal’ collection. A vision with fresh elements, the impact of vintage clichés embraced

including dramatic clusters of Spider

with a new vibrant feel. Headpieces in

Lily blooms. These reach blood red in

pastel tones with neutrals and a touch

November as the season of the dead is

of bold infuse her collection. Adorned

acknowledged in Japanese culture.

a sneak peek | 14

Curled ostrich quills are caged into the wire sculpture to offer places for the

When asked, “What

hand painted silk flowers and leather

makes a hat magic?”

tooled leaves to sit at every angle to

Giulia explained that

support the final finished creation. Giulia

this would be a

was keen to work towards the perfect

combination between

finish with a neat and precisely captured

the person wearing

angle for every part of this.

the hat and the person who made the

When asked about sustainability, Giulia

hat. The connection between the wearer

talked about the need to choose ethical

and the hat maker is key. Fairy dust may

sources with high quality materials.

have helped with the spell, but the true

Handmade hats are a niche area in the

magic of hats correlates with the

millinery field. These pieces are made

confidence and inner sparkle of the

with attention to detail using animal

wearer.

byproducts like leather and feathers. The

THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE WEARER AND THE highest level to maintain a standard to be H AT M A K E R I S K E Y. quality of the headgear has to be of the worn on a number of occasions.

There are so many opportunities for hats.

Commissioned to make a vegan hat,

Giulia wanted to offer some words for

Giulia explained that this was a

everyone. She suggested that we all let

challenge. She couldn’t use silk, leather

ourselves explore the possibilities. Don’t

or the gelatine stiffener. This left limited

be afraid to show your personality. “Just

material to work with. As it was a summer

chill, it’s a hat!”

hat, Sinamay was the solution. Made with

G I U L I A I S K E E N TO W O R K TO W A R D S THE PERFECT FINISH.

VISIT G I U L I A M I O M I L L I N E R Y. C O M

the fibres of the banana palm, this was an ideal material. She made and painted Sinamay flowers to create a truly vegan hat, a magnificent achievement.

F O L LO W O N I G @ G I U L I A . M I O. M I L L I N E R Y

the language of hats | 15 .

JOAN D N Y A DARB elderly n a e b i r e. l c to des d coup A way ally devote utu and m

I TIP M Y H AT TO YO U SIR!

L A N G U AG E O F H AT S

Literall brim of y to raise or til t the one greetin ’s hat as a salu ta g, or ma rk of res tion, pect.

AP T MY C I’VE SE .

AT H I M

THE

er cap en sets h If a wom ake him tries to m d it is e h s , n a at a m a behin r. The ide e h would e c ti o n a women t s a p e ttention that in th ract the a y. tt a to t a best h d to marr wear her ey wishe th n a m of the

An investigation into common phrases about hats...

I DOFF MY CA P TO Y O U !

HOME IS WHE REVER I L A Y M Y H A T.

A way to delare en thusicastic approval of.

Wherever you are comfortable and at ease with yo urself is your home, regard less of where you were born or bought up.

C A N YO U T H I N K O F A N Y OT H E R S ?

AS PRETTY AS ROSE PETALS, BLOOMING IN SPRINGTIME. Lynette, AKA "Queen of the garden" Available in your colours of preference with adequate notice period.

Lynette is a full head of delicate loose goose nagorie feathers carefully selected, trimmed and assembled upwards over a straw base with a few streaks of loose stripped coque feathers to create a cool and calm look that drips with grace and sophistication.

Stockist: @myqlady @christinesatelier | christinesatelier.com | info@christinesatelier.com

style.. | 16

H AT C A M E O F R O M FA S H I O N D E S I G N E R , MARIE SANSOME

This comes straight from the Fashion Designer, with thoughts for the future and what we may

an accessory to her

energy channelled her

step out in very soon.

stunning ‘Wounded’

into a ‘Fabric and

creation or as I see it,

Garment Design’ course

The ‘Nothing Mirrors’, a

that ‘little black dress’.

at university. She was

delicate rust, cream and

The gangster hat would

able to follow her dream

black dress could be

be black with a

coupled with a fencing

cream hat band and

mask styled helmet, a

textured detail.

netting face covering with a stiff shard of tulle.

An interest in fashion

An image that would

design began as a

support the sustainability

child for Marie

makes a remarkable

Sansome.

silhouette.

Combinations and coordinated outfits

Designers have images

were a fascination in

in their heads, Marie

all shapes and sizes.

Sansome is no

Her toys and games

exception. She would

revolved around

choose a large, wide, stiff

images and textures.

brimmed gangster hat as

All this creative

catwalk magic | 17

variation from expectations. An underskirt section over the overskirt, with a section of pleated overskirt forming part of the Garments formed in new ways. Unexpected finishes, with each garment constructed with drama to reflect and towards making clothes

expand the narrative in

that provoked

our global world

statements.

annihilation.

Marie’s latest collection;

A piece from this

’A Circus of Thoughts’ is

collection called

eclectic. Colours are

‘Nothing Mirrors’

varied. Textures worked

impacted on the catwalk

and reworked in new

in flamboyant rust chiffon

ways. The influences

with cream silk and folds

include climate change

of black tulle. A dress

with a look at the

with a difference,

elements causing

showing deconstruction

environmental pollution

disconnects. The

and human destruction.

expectations were

sleeve was constructed.

These all played their

stretched, while the

Ruffles bubbled around

part in this collection. The

boundaries were pushed.

the shoulders and linked

construction of fabrics,

The overskirt and

a half moon of the skirt

with repurposed samples

underskirt were

hem. This is a wild and

added new layers to her

rearranging. Part of the

extraordinary dress.

creative process.

construction was a

Rather like Pablo Picasso’s

H E R PA S S I O N I S TO P U S H T H E E N V E LO P E W I T H H E R C R E AT I O N S .

style.. | 18

work, reality with an

black crushed taffeta and

unexpected adjustment

tulle dress is a good

really lands with Marie’s

example of the emotional

work. She makes

narrative in her work.

garments that follow

With creative spirit, her

convention for customers

design flew up the

and takes them to new

intensity scale with each

her environmental impact

levels when the design

element adding to her

in fashion design. Marie

brief offers more scope.

story.

said, “It is amazing what

Her passion is to push the

“IT IS AMAZING W H AT YO U C A N C R E AT E W I T H JUST A LITTLE I M A G I N AT I O N .”

you can create with just a

envelope with her

She believes in

little imagination.” Old

creations. She likes to

sustainability and

pieces of clothing can be

challenge herself by

promotes reworking

revived and rejuvenated

putting passionate

fabrics, the use of

into an outfit in an

emotion into her work.

repurposing clothes and

imaginative creative way.

Her stunning ‘Wounded’

plans off cuts to lessen

Tanya Nutritionist & Wellness Coach - 100% Free Nutrition Health Wellbeing Support - Diet Sustainable approach - Free Online Support all around the world Two medical degrees Medical Collage Burgas Medical University in Sofia British Champion in Body Fitness Compete internationally around the world as fully sponsored athlete from UK Federations.

tanyadimi@googlemail.com |

@tanya_wellness_coach

hats at home | 19

H O W TO. .

R E VA M P YO U R H AT All our hats have their own story. We remember where we bought them, or who gave them to us. We cherish the memories which mean we don’t easily give them up!

Now is a perfect time to look at your hats. Can you improve your hat collection? Why not be sustainable in your approach? If you wish to save money and be kind to the environment, it is well worth giving your existing hat a makeover.

F I T TO S I Z E Sizing is key. If your existing hat is the wrong size, there are some simple steps you can take to correct this.

If the hat is too big, use a narrow sponge strip inside the headband on the inside of the hat. Conversely, if the hat is too small, there may be some scope to stretch it. One way to do this is to steam the crown and place it carefully on your head and leave it there for approximately twenty seconds.

If you are struggling to stretch the hat, you will need to source a Milliner who has a hat stretcher.

how to revamp your hat | 20

A L I T T L E T LC After the sizing is correct, you should check the finish of the hat.

For example, a felt hat may simply need a gentle brush with a soft-bristled hat brush (a baby brush or clothes brush work well). Brush the same direction as the fabric to keep it smooth.

Check that there are no marks on you summer hat.

You bought it last year, a mark can be removed without pulling the colour. A hat made of natural material, like straw, will also benefit from a clean.

Wipe any marks with a wet wipe or similar product, rubbing the same way as the fabric flows.

C O LO U R C H A N G E It may be worth amending the hat band. Does it need replacing? Would you prefer a different colour? A length of petersham can be bought in a haberdashery shop or online.

A faded hat band can be replaced with a new coloured band, a piece of fabric or a textured motif. There are so many possibilities. A belt can create a textured look. New colours may be introduced. A plume of feathers adds drama to that old hat. Lace is a further layer of interest.

Give yourself a chance to explore the possibilities.

hats at home | 21

SHAPE & STRUCTURE The next step is structure. For example, a crushed Trilby may need a brim fix, which can be achieved by steaming the hat gently over a kettle or boiling pan of water. Use extreme caution as the steam can easily scald you! Place the hat over steam for 10 seconds. Then, use a rolled-up towel to create the desired shape – place under the brim and then pull the newly-steamed brim over this shape.

Sustainable fashion choices are key to the future of our planet. So, why not consider an environmentally-friendly hat revamp today?

No one ever throws away a hat. Hats have a mind of their own. They’ll fall back into your world at an unexpected moment or just sit and wait for you to remember them.

‘THE GRACE AND STYLE’ CO. Come to Manthe for a Bespoke Style Consultation for both Ladies & Gents Awaken your potential to make an immediate impact.

First impressions are lasting.

Get in touch with Manthe today “Fashion fades ... style is eternal.” ~ YSL.

@the_grace_and_style

THE COSSACK H AT

H I S TO R Y O F. .

Cossacks were first

the history of.. | 22

of the Dnieper).

At this time, Poland began to organise the Zaporozhian Cossacks into their own military

kept his hat she was

ranks to protect their

happy for a proposal to

boarder. It was at this

follow.

point in history that the

recorded in 14th century.

Zaporozhian Cossacks

The word ‘Cossack’

Invaded by Poland and

signed a treaty with the

derives from the Turkic

Russia, the Cossack

Russian Empire to retain

term ‘kazak’ which

warriors had to use their

their autonomy. This

roughly translates to ‘free

strengths to keep armies

solution worked for a

man’ or ‘ adventurer’.

away from the land

short period but

Cossacks are a group of

between the Caspian and

eventually the Russians

Russian military workers

Black Seas. Cossacks

were determined to

who traditionally lived in

devided themselves into

capture their land. A forty

semi-military

six major land linked

seven year battle finished

communities and

regions; the Don, the

with victory for Russia.

followed a simplistic

Greben (in Caucasia), the

lifestyle.

Yaik (on the Middle Ural

There were many

River), the Volga, the

traditions surrounding

In the sixteenth century,

Dnieper and the

Cossack life; the way they

the hat was very

Zaporozhian (maily west

lived, their values and

symbolic; if removed from the head it showed the end of a blood feud of warring clans, or a romantic gesture to woo a lady. A Cossack would throw his hat into the window of the lady he wanted to pursue, if she

the cossack hat | 23

their strong traditions.

Mountains, the Cossacks

made from bear, sheep,

They worked and fought

lived together. Their

and wolf fur. After the war,

together, in order to stay

Cossack hats were

the papakha was replaced

together and keep their

important to Cossack life.

by the Communist

land. Horsemanship was a

Identified as the papakha

Budenovka Hat. Later the

key skill. Young male

hat, it was also called an

Cossack hat reappeared

Cossacks were trained to

astrakhan hat.

as part of the Red Army’s

use weapons and ride

high command attire.

horses by the age of

The Cossack hat was worn

After the fall of Stalin,

three, giving them an

for honour not for

high level officials in the

warmth. The papakha was

Politburo chose the

an integral part of life and

Cossack Papakha and

expressions that were

introduced them as part

deep seated in their

of their official uniform.

beliefs. Their sayings

T H E C O S S AC K H AT W A S W O R N FOR HONOUR N OT F O R WARMTH.

include “If you have no

The Cossack hat has

one to consult, consult

always been worn with

your hat” and “If the head

pride by members of the

is intact, a papakha

public. This has continued

should be on it.” No

to the present day.

Cossack hat could be

Cossack hats are popular

removed without the

and reflect luxury across

head! A Cossack

the Russian Federation

regarded his papakha

and beyond. Authentic

and shashka (a special

Cossack hats are made

kind of saber) as his most

with a variety of animal

precious possessions.

furs. Animal rights activists

amazing advantage on horseback for life.

and modern customers A papakha was a hat that

prefer faux fur and natural

formed part of a uniform,

wool fibres, so Cossack

In the homeland, named

the fur and the height of

hats are made with these

Caucasus, between the

the hat defined the rank

materials too.

Caucasus Mountains and

and tribe. Up to 1917

Greater Caucasus

these hats were usually

lifestyle | 24

T H E R E ’ S A H AT. .

A fashion scoop from top

she progressed towards

push into the unfamiliar

London stylist Deni Kiro:

dress-design. University

and unexpected all

“Straw hats are in!”

studies in Art and Design

based on elements that

covering interior design

are suited to the wearer,

If you ‘bag’ a Genuine

and fashion brought her

Panama you will enjoy it

to exactly where she

for life, while other straw

wanted to be. Her career

hats will last only a few

spanned interior styling

seasons. From a giant Le

to personal shopping.

NO ONE WANTS E X A C T LY W H AT THEY THINK THEY WANT

Grande oversized hat to a neat crafted shaped

She supports private

right colour, flattering

straw, everyone will be

clients in their quest to

shape, style to match

wearing these over the

have good fashion

their character and

summer. Don’t miss out;

advice. Her aim is to ‘turn

something more. The

choose one that suits

up the volume’ with their

offer of a surprise that

your skin tone. Pick one

own personal style and

adds drama to their look

that you can wear every

work with their client. She

outside their comfort

day, not just for your

zone.

holidays.

While her brand styling At the tender age of

follows the same rules,

three, Deni began to

she takes the journey with

develop her career. She

the company towards

used her skills to play and

something new,

examine fashion from

innovative and

every angle. Her drawing

spectacular. For example,

skills offered more

aims to offer an elegant

working with a leather

creative possibilities as

and classy look with a

company, she used

there is a hat to suit everyone | 25

. .TO S U I T E V E R YO N E . lifestyle and imaging to

One of her most

often wears a dress for

create a story in her

memorable styling

more than one occasion.

sequenced plan. Detail is

projects involved styling

As she pointed out, it is

key and adds depth to

vintage broaches that

not just clothes that we

her work and memorable

were rarely out of their

choose but the way we

images that give her an

boxes. These timeless

live. Lifestyle has an

edge over others.

pieces would have worked so well on a hat.

Deni explained that her

Jewellery is such a

work changed from one

wonderful addition to

client to another but her

give a hat some sparkle

strategy remained

and a different look. This

consistent. Another

links to the area of

recent project was set in

sustainability in fashion.

an ‘urban jungle’ using rooftops for the millennials in a timeless elegance with a surprise sharing next years trends.

It is vital to be one or two

JEWELLERY IS SUCH A WONDERFUL A D D I T I O N TO G I V E A H AT S O M E S PA R K L E

steps ahead in the styling

important role in this.

Companies like ‘Mother

process. No one wants

She has strong views of

of Pearl’ give a great

exactly what they think

building in sustainability

range of sustainable

they want, variety and

into her work. She will

clothing. A ‘Capsule

innovative ideas that

guide her customers to

Wardrobe’ is an excellent

attract attention.

make green choices but

choice for an eco-friendly

cannot do more. Her

path to sustainability.

classics are timeless, and

The perfect outfit is only

lifestyle | 26

brought together by the

She leaves her own

wearer. The person

personal style out of the

comes first and the outfit

equation and takes her

compliments the wearer.

clients from their

Clothes must enhance

perceived goal to a

what is inside, while a hat

higher more demanding

adds individuality for a

place that gets them

creative extrovert. The hat

noticed and attracts more

must be the right shape,

customers. ‘Playing it

be a size that balances

safe’ is not an option.

with body shape and a

There is always a need to

colour that makes the

strive towards new goals,

wearer shine. There is a

fashion does not stand

hat to suit everyone.

still.

T H E R E R E A L LY I S A H AT TO S U I T E V E R YO N E . .

FIND OUT M O R E AT D E N I K I R O. C O M F O L LO W O N I G @DENI.KIRO

celeb news | 27

H AT S S E E N THIS SEASON With the lockdown keeping everyone safe indoors, we haven’t been able to see as many hats out and about this season as we’d like to, but we have been seeing plenty of throwbacks. So have no fear, we can give you a few extravagant examples to see.

BILLY PORTER

Take a look at these 2019 #metballmemories...

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what’s next | 28

W H AT ’ S

NEXT? A sneak preview into what to expect in the July issue ...

The Panama Hat Company share some of the processes behind their hat making and elaborate on the history. They explain their strong links with Ecuador and how they helped bring fair-trade to the weavers.

Fashions Finest, Deborah St Louis gives an in-depth interview about the fashion values that drive her brand and showcases designers on the catwalk.

Catwalk sensation, Ojoma Idegwu, from Dear Curves talks about her design work. She found a niche in the fashion market and has built an empire in this area. We will be guided through her journey and where it has taken her. ...out on June 20th

T H E H ATC H A N N E L . C O M @ H ATC H A N N E LT V

@ T H E H AT H I S TO R I A N