H AT S O F F TO. .
BUIO
June 2020
P E RN W B UCM KDO LO
ISSU
E
Buio explains her winning creation.
T H E R E I S A H AT TO S U I T E V E R YO N E Fashion stylist Deni Kiro tells us there is a hat to suit everyone!
D O YO U N E E D TO R E VA M P YO U R O L D H AT ? We are all looking forward to the day we can step outside and can enjoy dressing up again. Your hats may need a small touch up before making that step. Read Tricia’s top tips for bringing your old hats back to life.
A CIRCLE
OF CARE
We are currently living through a period of extreme uncertainty. Our lives are in the hands of the heroes at the NHS, and the hats they wear in our eyes, are crowns.
W E LC O M E Dear Readers of The Hat Channel Magazine,
our couture future.
This issue takes us on a journey into ‘The World of
The exquisite designs for the
Hats’. We have opportunities before us and look
head are explained by
forward to our way ahead.
‘Giulia Mio Millinery’ to stretch our imagination. Her
Hats are more important to us now than ever
thinking will open up your
before. Here and now is history in the making. We
thoughts on hat styles for the
are walking around outside with our families.
future which may give you ideas to help you
Everyone needs to protect their head, or ‘bean’ (an
choose your next hat.
old English word for head) - did you know that’s where the name beanie comes from?
The ‘Hats at Home’ segment discusses a practical approach to repurpose that ‘old hat’ of yours.
The Hat Channel Magazine is opening our eyes to the possibilities of headgear by giving insights on
As we move forward, The Hat Channel Magazine
designer’s approaches to creative projects.
looks at the role of hats in our lives. How hats make statements and where they sit in our everyday
A scoop interview with Buio in Italy just before she
routines. It is a mesh of hats that strike a chord in
won her prestigious award with HATalk was a
history, see changing trends and drive
delight. We were honoured that Buio agreed to
interest into the future.
speak with us. You can see her magnificent winning hat, a sculpture for the head, that link her ideas to the finished piece in a unique and alluring way. Hats are everywhere. Protective clothing is essential in our hospitals and required in these times. No stone can be left unturned in our battle against the coronavirus touching our lives. Masks have become a controversial topic. More masks are being made and worn. They may turn into the newest fashion accessory for 2020. Furthermore, hats that show authority are prominent now. Police uniforms are only complete with a custodian hat, for the ‘Bobby on the beat’ to a bowler for the police women. Military uniforms and many other services follow this same discipline. Fashion flair and glamour are added with insights from a famous London stylist, Deni. A treat from the red carpet of the catwalk at SS20, Marie Sansome, shares her fashion ideas while keeping her feet firmly on the ground for sustainable approaches to
T H E H ATC H A N N E L . C O M
02032 826 623
H AT S O F F TO YO U A L L .
@ H ATC H A N N E LT V
@ T H E H AT H I S TO R I A N
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A CIRCLE OF CARE
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H AT S O F F TO. .
BUIO - OUR AWARD WINNING MILLINER
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“J U S T C H I L L , I T ’ S A H AT ! ”
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T H E L A N G UA G E O F H AT S
16
C AT W A L K M AG I C
21
H O W TO. .
R E VA M P YO U R H AT
TA B L E O F
CONTENTS COPYRIGHT © 2020 THE HAT CHANNEL LTD. The Hat Channel Mag is published by The Hat Channel Magazine. Editorial: editor@thehatchannel.com | Advertising: sales@thehatchannel.com
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T H E H I S TO R Y O F. .
T H E C O S S A C K H AT
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T H E R E ’ S A H AT TO S U I T E V E R YO N E
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Telephone: 020 3282 6623 | Website: www.thehatchannel.com Head office: Suite 2, 14 Union Street, Stroud, Glos, GL5 2HE London office: Great Portland Street, London, W1W 7LT No material may be reproduced in any way, or translated, without written permission of the publishers. Disclaimer: Every effort has been made to ensure that adverts and articles appear correctly, but The Hat Channel cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of the publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor.
PHOTOGRAPHY CREDIT. Page 8: Tullio Deorsola, Photographer | Page 12: IsoElegant Photography Page 27: Panama Hat Company
H AT S S E E N THIS SEASON
28
W H AT ’ S I N T H E NEXT ISSUE
feature article | 04
At this time, we are surrounded by hats. They take different
straw, breathe, we can
us all. No one was
guises, from
take a drum roll and run
prepared for it. We didn’t
authoritarian to
with it.
expect it. Our lives have
protection and a vast number of areas in between. Our key workers have the most hats to wear. We are all adapting to life in the confinement of our own homes. Each member of the household has to make an effort to create harmony for all. A new ‘virtual’ hat for every unfamiliar scene, as tempers fray and we reach the last
changed forever. Our ‘Lockdown’, it came upon
OUR LIVES H AV E CHANGED FOREVER.
hearts go out to the grief stricken. Condolences are sent to the families and friends that have been touched by Covid-19.
the circle of care | 05
Doctors began to wear
ship scrubs to the
masks and gloves to
hospitals in need.
guard against the
Different fabrics support
Spanish flu epidemic in 1918. Our medical
health service. People all
staff wear hats
over the country have
and scrubs
taken on the stoic task of
now. This
making individual scrub
began in
sets to stem the
1940, when
SO MANY SERVICES PUT T H E M S E LV E S AT R I S K E V E R Y DAY TO H E L P T H E I R C O M M U N I T Y.
anaesthesia and operations were carried out in sterile settings. We
particular jobs in the
Use of a complete kit was
are all within reach of its
formalised in the 1950s
persistent grasp. The
with a whole outfit
current crisis has created
including surgical caps,
“They’re changing guard
a wave of loneliness with
hair and beard covers
at Buckingham Palace,”
vulnerable groups more
and bouffant caps.
from the poem by A.A.
likely to need our help
increasing demand.
Milne, this hasn’t
and support. People are
As stocks of these
focused on getting
essential items are
through this time. Life will
running low, a cry
not be the same at the
for help has been
other end of the tunnel.
launched for clothing
Nurses have cared for
manufacturers and
patients for over 200
the general public
years, associated with a
to help. Barbour™
stiff white cap and white
was quick off the
apron; they look after the
mark as they, and
sick in this recognisable
many other
and cherished uniform.
designer brands,
Picture: NNP
feature article | 06
‘buffetier’. The
The police and army use
Queen’s Guard are
hats and caps to
trained to look after
distinguish themselves as
the royal household
bodies of authority to
and their bearskin
uphold the law and
hats date back to
contain unrest. Rank is
changed since the time
Napoleon and the Battle
defined with caps, motifs
of ‘Winnie the Pooh’! The
of Waterloo.
and uniform, while
Queen’s crown and
protective clothing is
jewels are housed
worn when deployment is
in the Tower of
required. These change
London and, more recently, the ‘church plate’ from all London centres of worship for safety at this time
AS INDIVIDUALS WE ARE SMALL, TO G E T H E R W E A R E A F O R C E TO B E R E C KO N E D WITH.
when churches are closed. These are
over time. Police helmets
looked after by the
for the Bobby on the beat
Yeoman Warders
created a distinctive
nicknamed,
silhouette back in the
‘Beefeaters’ from
day.
the French,
the circle of care | 07
Key-workers have come to the foreground, from medical personnel to supermarket staff and everyone in between, too many to mention, in this cycle of living. We are all so grateful; so many services put themselves at risk
often hidden from view.
new jobs to adapt to. It is
everyday to help their
Tucked into their world,
not easy, each part of our
community. Their hats
we should add a halo, for
lives need a ‘new virtual‘
are sometimes visible but
their compassion,
hat, a large spoon of
humility and strength.
patience, a giant helping
NO ONE KNOWS W H AT T H E FUTURE WILL BRING.
of humour, with a As individuals we are
sprinkling of hope. It’s a
small, together we are a
huge step for neighbours
force to be reckoned
to rally together, friends
with. In isolation, we have
unite, while key-workers toil on and on with twelve hour shifts. Our children have lost a little piece of their childhood. No one knows what the future will bring. We all clap for our carers and take our ‘invisible’ hats off to them.
hats off to.. | 08
BUIO
OUR AWARDWINNING MILLINER B U I O ’ S H AT S A R E F LY I N G : “WE ARE EVERYTHING, W E A R E T I M E L E S S B E AT I N G H E A R T S , CHILDREN OF A FRACTION OF TIME. F O R T H E L A S T U N TO U C H E D F LO W E R , F O R T H E L A S T N OT G I V E N K I S S , I ’ M G O N N A R I P O U T M Y H E A R T AT T H E ‘ F I N A L J U D G M E N T ’, AND MY DREAMS WILL BE DRIPPING THROUGH MY FINGERS, A S L A S T R E G R E T.” BUIO 2020
Buio - Our award winning milliner | 09
A mysterious blend of
discussed it at length. He
different, the shapes
passion, intertwined with
wanted to paint it. In fact,
connect and ideas
a hint of Victorian
he was willing to buy it.
culminate and form as
glamour. Injected with a
Buio declined his money
the elements intertwine.
romantic Gothic feel to
and offered to lend her
expose underlying
magnificent headgear for
A ‘Timeless’ theme
emotions and transform
the painting. They have
evoked a drama of fire
ideas into hats.
continued this
that could not be quelled.
partnership ever since.
Immersed in high quality
This magic takes place in
Every part of her
textiles, surrounded by a
Buio’s studio, deep in the
creations are done with a
range of emotions, they
heart of Turino. Our award-winning Milliner, wrapped in silk, tucked, seamed, twisted and turned with natural fibres
ignited charged energy
BUIO CRAFTS WITH HER HANDS AND E M OT I O N S .
that have been worked in
together. Buio reached into the inner depths of her own tragic history. Feelings of grief are captured as the clock
a labour of love and
focus on the whole and
stands still in that
crafted into a formation
of the detail. No part is
moment in time. Similar
that reflects a narrative.
left to chance. Buio crafts
to a Shakespearean
Bejewelled and treasured
with her hands and
tragedy, the heroine’s
hats by Buio stand out as
emotions. Her talent is
untimely death
‘one of a kind’.
driven by her feelings in
immortalises her forever.
the creative process. Influenced by ‘Degas’ from a young age, she began to ‘play’ with fabrics. One of her early headpieces in her father’s shop window attracted an artist across the threshold. They
Every headpiece is
Buio came to create a
hats off to.. | 10
remarkable ‘Final
They offered more light
Judgment’. This takes life and the fragile balance of beating hearts and as the last day of life. This left no chance for a final kiss.
personal goal is to display her hats on a
SHE EMPHASISED T H AT N AT U R A L M AT E R I A L S A R E OUR LIFE AND FUTURE.
Linked to the metaphoric
global catwalk and share her passion for hats from her studio in Southern Italy to a world stage. Each step brings her
representation of the
and movement within
impact of life lost and
each element of the hat.
love not forgotten.
She emphasised that
She is always pushing
Written by Buio, “I’m
natural materials are our
herself. Being self-taught,
gonna rip out my heart at
life and future. A palette
she makes it her mission
the Final Judgment, and
of black, green and red
to achieve the designs
my dreams will be
adorn her hats in a
that she has formulated in
dripping through my
marriage of colours.
her head. What a
fingers, as last regret.”
Embroidery is worked
customer wants, their
This resonates with the
into the right places,
character and personality
gravity of a situation that
positioning is very
all present in the hat
changed everything, but
important. Handmade
making process. She
the loss is not lost. Loved
lace is painted to
explained that she puts
ones embrace the
highlight the colour she
her ‘soul’ into her hat
memory for eternity.
wants. She can add a
making. You have to
‘touch’ of colour.
understand the client, so
Within this form, I asked
Everything is a journey
that you can move
Buio to explain her
towards the goal.
forward.
began with the rich,
When asked what makes
When asked how we
textured, natural fabrics.
a hat ‘magic’ it was an
could buy a hat, she
She pointed out that
easy answer. Buio said, it
explained that you need
polyesters and chemicals
is the wearer that makes a
to contact her directly so
in materials were no use.
hat ‘magic’. They bring it
that she can make a hat,
The crisp delicate and
to life and it starts a new
“just for you”.
tactile pieces were
journey with the new
needed to make this hat.
owner of the hat. Her
nearer to this.
creation in detail. It all
F O L LO W O N I G @ B U I O. _ . _
a sneak peek | 12
studies with historical costume took her into the world of corsets, embroidery and dying methods and many more handcraft skills. She needed to make a headpiece for her course project; in-depth research was required. Her passion was ignited and her thirst for knowledge was set on fire. Her desire to create a piece that is ‘part of the head’ gives her fantastic positioning with her customers. She has to meet or talk on Skype with them to read and interpret their inner character, Giulia at ‘Giulia Mio Millinery’ gave an
before she is able to take the next steps
in-depth interview on her fantastic
in the design process. Their personal
millinery work. She shared her unique
aspirations have a leading part to play
background, her approach to her
in the final piece. It also includes the
creative process and the needs of her
build up of trust and opportunities to
wonderful customers. She also
push their personal boundaries in their
revealed some of her ideas in hat
creative horizons. Everyone has a
making, her wild ideas and a glimpse
different image which is incorporated
of the detail she incorporates into
into the final magnificent look.
every piece of headgear. The influences that give her headpieces their showstopper qualities and how customers can approach hats in the future. It was fascinating to discover that Giulia ‘fell’ into millinery work while studying her Masters in Milan, the home of millinery couture. Her
just chill, it’s a hat | 13
with silk flowers and handmade delicate details, offers ornamentation that wraps beautifully around the head. Some classic delicate colour combinations with a few surprises from the palette too. Her creations are a sculpture for the head. One amazing signature piece is ‘Aki’, meaning autumn in Japanese, Influences for Giulia involve images and
was inspired by a Japanese garden in
a narrative. There is no set pattern, so
the autumn. This dynamic piece shows
current fashion trends do not feature in
the leaves and
her work. She uses other elements from
flowers in the wind
life and has a fond link to all things
as they lift up. The
Japanese, so there is often a Japanese
H E R C R E AT I O N S H AV E A N E M B R YO N I C G R O W T H
leaves are Ginkgo and Japanese Maple
twist in her designs. Her attention to
intertwined with
detail is extraordinary. From silk flowers
various flower forms
to incandescent feathers to sculptured wiring, her creations have an embryonic growth to become a clear and cutting edge form. You heard it here first, her new collection is phenomenal. Our sneak peek unveils ‘The Glamorous Gal’ collection. A vision with fresh elements, the impact of vintage clichés embraced
including dramatic clusters of Spider
with a new vibrant feel. Headpieces in
Lily blooms. These reach blood red in
pastel tones with neutrals and a touch
November as the season of the dead is
of bold infuse her collection. Adorned
acknowledged in Japanese culture.
a sneak peek | 14
Curled ostrich quills are caged into the wire sculpture to offer places for the
When asked, “What
hand painted silk flowers and leather
makes a hat magic?”
tooled leaves to sit at every angle to
Giulia explained that
support the final finished creation. Giulia
this would be a
was keen to work towards the perfect
combination between
finish with a neat and precisely captured
the person wearing
angle for every part of this.
the hat and the person who made the
When asked about sustainability, Giulia
hat. The connection between the wearer
talked about the need to choose ethical
and the hat maker is key. Fairy dust may
sources with high quality materials.
have helped with the spell, but the true
Handmade hats are a niche area in the
magic of hats correlates with the
millinery field. These pieces are made
confidence and inner sparkle of the
with attention to detail using animal
wearer.
byproducts like leather and feathers. The
THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE WEARER AND THE highest level to maintain a standard to be H AT M A K E R I S K E Y. quality of the headgear has to be of the worn on a number of occasions. There are so many opportunities for hats. Commissioned to make a vegan hat,
Giulia wanted to offer some words for
Giulia explained that this was a
everyone. She suggested that we all let
challenge. She couldn’t use silk, leather
ourselves explore the possibilities. Don’t
or the gelatine stiffener. This left limited
be afraid to show your personality. “Just
material to work with. As it was a summer
chill, it’s a hat!”
hat, Sinamay was the solution. Made with
G I U L I A I S K E E N TO W O R K TO W A R D S THE PERFECT FINISH.
VISIT G I U L I A M I O M I L L I N E R Y. C O M
the fibres of the banana palm, this was an ideal material. She made and painted Sinamay flowers to create a truly vegan hat, a magnificent achievement.
F O L LO W O N I G @ G I U L I A . M I O. M I L L I N E R Y
the language of hats | 15 . JOAN D N Y A DARB elderly n a e b i r e. l c to des d coup A way ally devote utu and m
I TIP M Y H AT TO YO U SIR!
L A N G U AG E O F H AT S
Literall brim of y to raise or til t the one greetin ’s hat as a salu ta g, or ma rk of res tion, pect.
AP T MY C I’VE SE . AT H I M
THE
er cap en sets h If a wom ake him tries to m d it is e h s , n a at a m a behin r. The ide e h would e c ti o n a women t s a p e ttention that in th ract the a y. tt a to t a best h d to marr wear her ey wishe th n a m of the
An investigation into common phrases about hats... I DOFF MY CA P TO Y O U !
HOME IS WHE REVER I L A Y M Y H A T.
A way to delare en thusicastic approval of.
Wherever you are comfortable and at ease with yo urself is your home, regard less of where you were born or bought up.
C A N YO U T H I N K O F A N Y OT H E R S ?
AS PRETTY AS ROSE PETALS, BLOOMING IN SPRINGTIME. Lynette, AKA "Queen of the garden" Available in your colours of preference with adequate notice period.
Lynette is a full head of delicate loose goose nagorie feathers carefully selected, trimmed and assembled upwards over a straw base with a few streaks of loose stripped coque feathers to create a cool and calm look that drips with grace and sophistication. Stockist: @myqlady @christinesatelier | christinesatelier.com | info@christinesatelier.com
style.. | 16
H AT C A M E O F R O M FA S H I O N D E S I G N E R , MARIE SANSOME
This comes straight from the Fashion Designer, with thoughts for the future and what we may
an accessory to her
energy channelled her
step out in very soon.
stunning ‘Wounded’
into a ‘Fabric and
creation or as I see it,
Garment Design’ course
The ‘Nothing Mirrors’, a
that ‘little black dress’.
at university. She was
delicate rust, cream and
The gangster hat would
able to follow her dream
black dress could be
be black with a
coupled with a fencing
cream hat band and
mask styled helmet, a
textured detail.
netting face covering with a stiff shard of tulle.
An interest in fashion
An image that would
design began as a
support the sustainability
child for Marie
makes a remarkable
Sansome.
silhouette.
Combinations and coordinated outfits
Designers have images
were a fascination in
in their heads, Marie
all shapes and sizes.
Sansome is no
Her toys and games
exception. She would
revolved around
choose a large, wide, stiff
images and textures.
brimmed gangster hat as
All this creative
catwalk magic | 17
variation from expectations. An underskirt section over the overskirt, with a section of pleated overskirt forming part of the Garments formed in new ways. Unexpected finishes, with each garment constructed with drama to reflect and towards making clothes
expand the narrative in
that provoked
our global world
statements.
annihilation.
Marie’s latest collection;
A piece from this
’A Circus of Thoughts’ is
collection called
eclectic. Colours are
‘Nothing Mirrors’
varied. Textures worked
impacted on the catwalk
and reworked in new
in flamboyant rust chiffon
ways. The influences
with cream silk and folds
include climate change
of black tulle. A dress
with a look at the
with a difference,
elements causing
showing deconstruction
environmental pollution
disconnects. The
and human destruction.
expectations were
sleeve was constructed.
These all played their
stretched, while the
Ruffles bubbled around
part in this collection. The
boundaries were pushed.
the shoulders and linked
construction of fabrics,
The overskirt and
a half moon of the skirt
with repurposed samples
underskirt were
hem. This is a wild and
added new layers to her
rearranging. Part of the
extraordinary dress.
creative process.
construction was a
Rather like Pablo Picasso’s
H E R PA S S I O N I S TO P U S H T H E E N V E LO P E W I T H H E R C R E AT I O N S .
style.. | 18
work, reality with an
black crushed taffeta and
unexpected adjustment
tulle dress is a good
really lands with Marie’s
example of the emotional
work. She makes
narrative in her work.
garments that follow
With creative spirit, her
convention for customers
design flew up the
and takes them to new
intensity scale with each
her environmental impact
levels when the design
element adding to her
in fashion design. Marie
brief offers more scope.
story.
said, “It is amazing what
Her passion is to push the
“IT IS AMAZING W H AT YO U C A N C R E AT E W I T H JUST A LITTLE I M A G I N AT I O N .”
you can create with just a
envelope with her
She believes in
little imagination.” Old
creations. She likes to
sustainability and
pieces of clothing can be
challenge herself by
promotes reworking
revived and rejuvenated
putting passionate
fabrics, the use of
into an outfit in an
emotion into her work.
repurposing clothes and
imaginative creative way.
Her stunning ‘Wounded’
plans off cuts to lessen
Tanya Nutritionist & Wellness Coach - 100% Free Nutrition Health Wellbeing Support - Diet Sustainable approach - Free Online Support all around the world Two medical degrees Medical Collage Burgas Medical University in Sofia British Champion in Body Fitness Compete internationally around the world as fully sponsored athlete from UK Federations.
tanyadimi@googlemail.com |
@tanya_wellness_coach
hats at home | 19
H O W TO. . R E VA M P YO U R H AT All our hats have their own story. We remember where we bought them, or who gave them to us. We cherish the memories which mean we don’t easily give them up! Now is a perfect time to look at your hats. Can you improve your hat collection? Why not be sustainable in your approach? If you wish to save money and be kind to the environment, it is well worth giving your existing hat a makeover.
F I T TO S I Z E Sizing is key. If your existing hat is the wrong size, there are some simple steps you can take to correct this. If the hat is too big, use a narrow sponge strip inside the headband on the inside of the hat. Conversely, if the hat is too small, there may be some scope to stretch it. One way to do this is to steam the crown and place it carefully on your head and leave it there for approximately twenty seconds. If you are struggling to stretch the hat, you will need to source a Milliner who has a hat stretcher.
how to revamp your hat | 20
A L I T T L E T LC After the sizing is correct, you should check the finish of the hat. For example, a felt hat may simply need a gentle brush with a soft-bristled hat brush (a baby brush or clothes brush work well). Brush the same direction as the fabric to keep it smooth. Check that there are no marks on you summer hat. You bought it last year, a mark can be removed without pulling the colour. A hat made of natural material, like straw, will also benefit from a clean. Wipe any marks with a wet wipe or similar product, rubbing the same way as the fabric flows.
C O LO U R C H A N G E It may be worth amending the hat band. Does it need replacing? Would you prefer a different colour? A length of petersham can be bought in a haberdashery shop or online. A faded hat band can be replaced with a new coloured band, a piece of fabric or a textured motif. There are so many possibilities. A belt can create a textured look. New colours may be introduced. A plume of feathers adds drama to that old hat. Lace is a further layer of interest. Give yourself a chance to explore the possibilities.
hats at home | 21
SHAPE & STRUCTURE The next step is structure. For example, a crushed Trilby may need a brim fix, which can be achieved by steaming the hat gently over a kettle or boiling pan of water. Use extreme caution as the steam can easily scald you! Place the hat over steam for 10 seconds. Then, use a rolled-up towel to create the desired shape – place under the brim and then pull the newly-steamed brim over this shape. Sustainable fashion choices are key to the future of our planet. So, why not consider an environmentally-friendly hat revamp today? No one ever throws away a hat. Hats have a mind of their own. They’ll fall back into your world at an unexpected moment or just sit and wait for you to remember them.
‘THE GRACE AND STYLE’ CO. Come to Manthe for a Bespoke Style Consultation for both Ladies & Gents Awaken your potential to make an immediate impact. First impressions are lasting.
Get in touch with Manthe today “Fashion fades ... style is eternal.” ~ YSL.
@the_grace_and_style
THE COSSACK H AT
H I S TO R Y O F. .
Cossacks were first
the history of.. | 22
of the Dnieper). At this time, Poland began to organise the Zaporozhian Cossacks into their own military
kept his hat she was
ranks to protect their
happy for a proposal to
boarder. It was at this
follow.
point in history that the
recorded in 14th century.
Zaporozhian Cossacks
The word ‘Cossack’
Invaded by Poland and
signed a treaty with the
derives from the Turkic
Russia, the Cossack
Russian Empire to retain
term ‘kazak’ which
warriors had to use their
their autonomy. This
roughly translates to ‘free
strengths to keep armies
solution worked for a
man’ or ‘ adventurer’.
away from the land
short period but
Cossacks are a group of
between the Caspian and
eventually the Russians
Russian military workers
Black Seas. Cossacks
were determined to
who traditionally lived in
devided themselves into
capture their land. A forty
semi-military
six major land linked
seven year battle finished
communities and
regions; the Don, the
with victory for Russia.
followed a simplistic
Greben (in Caucasia), the
lifestyle.
Yaik (on the Middle Ural
There were many
River), the Volga, the
traditions surrounding
In the sixteenth century,
Dnieper and the
Cossack life; the way they
the hat was very
Zaporozhian (maily west
lived, their values and
symbolic; if removed from the head it showed the end of a blood feud of warring clans, or a romantic gesture to woo a lady. A Cossack would throw his hat into the window of the lady he wanted to pursue, if she
the cossack hat | 23
their strong traditions.
Mountains, the Cossacks
made from bear, sheep,
They worked and fought
lived together. Their
and wolf fur. After the war,
together, in order to stay
Cossack hats were
the papakha was replaced
together and keep their
important to Cossack life.
by the Communist
land. Horsemanship was a
Identified as the papakha
Budenovka Hat. Later the
key skill. Young male
hat, it was also called an
Cossack hat reappeared
Cossacks were trained to
astrakhan hat.
as part of the Red Army’s
use weapons and ride
high command attire.
horses by the age of
The Cossack hat was worn
After the fall of Stalin,
three, giving them an
for honour not for
high level officials in the
warmth. The papakha was
Politburo chose the
an integral part of life and
Cossack Papakha and
expressions that were
introduced them as part
deep seated in their
of their official uniform.
beliefs. Their sayings
T H E C O S S AC K H AT W A S W O R N FOR HONOUR N OT F O R WARMTH.
include “If you have no
The Cossack hat has
one to consult, consult
always been worn with
your hat” and “If the head
pride by members of the
is intact, a papakha
public. This has continued
should be on it.” No
to the present day.
Cossack hat could be
Cossack hats are popular
removed without the
and reflect luxury across
head! A Cossack
the Russian Federation
regarded his papakha
and beyond. Authentic
and shashka (a special
Cossack hats are made
kind of saber) as his most
with a variety of animal
precious possessions.
furs. Animal rights activists
amazing advantage on horseback for life.
and modern customers A papakha was a hat that
prefer faux fur and natural
formed part of a uniform,
wool fibres, so Cossack
In the homeland, named
the fur and the height of
hats are made with these
Caucasus, between the
the hat defined the rank
materials too.
Caucasus Mountains and
and tribe. Up to 1917
Greater Caucasus
these hats were usually
lifestyle | 24
T H E R E ’ S A H AT. . A fashion scoop from top
she progressed towards
push into the unfamiliar
London stylist Deni Kiro:
dress-design. University
and unexpected all
“Straw hats are in!”
studies in Art and Design
based on elements that
covering interior design
are suited to the wearer,
If you ‘bag’ a Genuine
and fashion brought her
Panama you will enjoy it
to exactly where she
for life, while other straw
wanted to be. Her career
hats will last only a few
spanned interior styling
seasons. From a giant Le
to personal shopping.
NO ONE WANTS E X A C T LY W H AT THEY THINK THEY WANT
Grande oversized hat to a neat crafted shaped
She supports private
right colour, flattering
straw, everyone will be
clients in their quest to
shape, style to match
wearing these over the
have good fashion
their character and
summer. Don’t miss out;
advice. Her aim is to ‘turn
something more. The
choose one that suits
up the volume’ with their
offer of a surprise that
your skin tone. Pick one
own personal style and
adds drama to their look
that you can wear every
work with their client. She
outside their comfort
day, not just for your
zone.
holidays. While her brand styling At the tender age of
follows the same rules,
three, Deni began to
she takes the journey with
develop her career. She
the company towards
used her skills to play and
something new,
examine fashion from
innovative and
every angle. Her drawing
spectacular. For example,
skills offered more
aims to offer an elegant
working with a leather
creative possibilities as
and classy look with a
company, she used
there is a hat to suit everyone | 25
. .TO S U I T E V E R YO N E . lifestyle and imaging to
One of her most
often wears a dress for
create a story in her
memorable styling
more than one occasion.
sequenced plan. Detail is
projects involved styling
As she pointed out, it is
key and adds depth to
vintage broaches that
not just clothes that we
her work and memorable
were rarely out of their
choose but the way we
images that give her an
boxes. These timeless
live. Lifestyle has an
edge over others.
pieces would have worked so well on a hat.
Deni explained that her
Jewellery is such a
work changed from one
wonderful addition to
client to another but her
give a hat some sparkle
strategy remained
and a different look. This
consistent. Another
links to the area of
recent project was set in
sustainability in fashion.
an ‘urban jungle’ using rooftops for the millennials in a timeless elegance with a surprise sharing next years trends. It is vital to be one or two
JEWELLERY IS SUCH A WONDERFUL A D D I T I O N TO G I V E A H AT S O M E S PA R K L E
steps ahead in the styling
important role in this. Companies like ‘Mother
process. No one wants
She has strong views of
of Pearl’ give a great
exactly what they think
building in sustainability
range of sustainable
they want, variety and
into her work. She will
clothing. A ‘Capsule
innovative ideas that
guide her customers to
Wardrobe’ is an excellent
attract attention.
make green choices but
choice for an eco-friendly
cannot do more. Her
path to sustainability.
classics are timeless, and
The perfect outfit is only
lifestyle | 26
brought together by the
She leaves her own
wearer. The person
personal style out of the
comes first and the outfit
equation and takes her
compliments the wearer.
clients from their
Clothes must enhance
perceived goal to a
what is inside, while a hat
higher more demanding
adds individuality for a
place that gets them
creative extrovert. The hat
noticed and attracts more
must be the right shape,
customers. ‘Playing it
be a size that balances
safe’ is not an option.
with body shape and a
There is always a need to
colour that makes the
strive towards new goals,
wearer shine. There is a
fashion does not stand
hat to suit everyone.
still.
T H E R E R E A L LY I S A H AT TO S U I T E V E R YO N E . .
FIND OUT M O R E AT D E N I K I R O. C O M F O L LO W O N I G @DENI.KIRO
celeb news | 27
H AT S S E E N THIS SEASON With the lockdown keeping everyone safe indoors, we haven’t been able to see as many hats out and about this season as we’d like to, but we have been seeing plenty of throwbacks. So have no fear, we can give you a few extravagant examples to see.
BILLY PORTER
Take a look at these 2019 #metballmemories...
YOU COULD TRY
IMAGE FROM @THEMETGALAOFFICIAL
ARIANA GRAND
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LILI REINHA N FLORALS CA
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JOSEPHINE SKRIVER CONSIDER MATCHING
YOUR OUTFIT TO YOU
R HAT
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YLISH
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what’s next | 28
W H AT ’ S
NEXT? A sneak preview into what to expect in the July issue ... The Panama Hat Company share some of the processes behind their hat making and elaborate on the history. They explain their strong links with Ecuador and how they helped bring fair-trade to the weavers. Fashions Finest, Deborah St Louis gives an in-depth interview about the fashion values that drive her brand and showcases designers on the catwalk. Catwalk sensation, Ojoma Idegwu, from Dear Curves talks about her design work. She found a niche in the fashion market and has built an empire in this area. We will be guided through her journey and where it has taken her. ...out on June 20th
T H E H ATC H A N N E L . C O M @ H ATC H A N N E LT V
@ T H E H AT H I S TO R I A N
