With Love, Rafael

Rafael has set the bar high. He wants to learn new techniques and is always striving to reach the next level. His adventure into hats came about by chance. Nothing had prepared him for what would happen.

A friend asked him to join a Millinery Class for three months. He said, "No, he wasn’t interested in hats." His friend persisted as she was unwilling to attend alone. Who would have thought that a supportive action from a friend would launch him into a career that consumes his passion.

Not only did he adore the work, he was on a mission - and still is - to reach perfection. Not content with one or two courses, he continued his learning across all the disciplines of millinery. He has been taught by the best; Sarah Cant, Ian Bennett, Sophie Beale, Vivienne Lake and numerous others, travelled the globe, rubbed shoulders with ‘milliner royalty’ and stepped up his ideas to a new level. His aim was to reach a standard that would give him the skills he needed to create pieces that go ‘off the scale’ in shape, style, originality and craftsmanship. No stone was left unturned.

A hat is not just a hat as Rafael explains, it is a story. There are links to the creator and his life, the wearer has links and synergy too. Currently making hats for Stephen Jones by day and working on his own creations in his spare time, hats are a major part of his life. Earlier this year, he had to give up his own studio and now competes with his family for ‘space at home’! He plans to find a studio nearer to his home.

When Rafael starts to explain his work, he comes alive. Every detail is exquisite. He builds his hats with a story and the person in mind. This black creation was inspired by the playful nature of his daughter, some mystery with a clear shape. Made to perfection, jet beads, petite ear silhouettes centred with a playful bow and caged in dramatic veiling. His ideas come instantly and have to be captured on paper and later recorded in one of his journals. Some ideas hold and become a realisation while others sit on the page. His journals are full of new ideas waiting to become a reality.

Inspiration comes from many different places. Water is often a striking influence in his creations. Ideas start to move, opening up possibilities. The fluidity in shape and form share marked characteristics. Sometimes a fabric defines a new collection, how it falls and the way it moves gives a clear path into each piece. Nature is often a factor in his work.

Furthermore, he is keen to fix items around the house; he has instilled this strategy into his children’s lives too. They always try to mend toys and home items before replacing them. This philosophy has transferred to his business. He reuses packaging and keeps his purchases as local as possible. Plastic does have a place in his work with its flexible versatility, so he uses it sparingly and always keeps off cuts for future projects.

When planning a piece with a customer he takes so many elements into consideration. For example, he created a fantasy hat for Rosie Tapner the TV presenter. Her horse has a white flash on the forehead. He designed each petal into this shape for her hat. The detail is second to none. Beads, clasps and trims all feature in elegant positions to add texture and drama to hat. He brings the essence of his customer into his hat design in a natural and powerful way. The hat is the product but the unseen story is a rich tapestry of ideas and playful themes that harmonise together.

Rafa shared that he has never been happier than he is now. As he nears 50, his life and work are validated by his customers, colleagues and family. His mother was amazed that Rafael had been invited to a catwalk by a designer in Madrid. She thought he had done enough in his first two years. He had never expected to find work that gave him this feeling. Each new piece is a creation that he strives Looking ahead, Rafael already has a new collection on his drawing board. No angle is left unturned. He really focuses on his ideas. This new one is a shining light of innovation. That’s all I can give away but The Hat Channel will continue to keep you posted as Rafael moves forward!

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