Savannah Scene – Nov-Dec 2021 by IslandCommunications

■ Know oeFORe YOU GO The perfect vacation is just a click away at savannah.com. Offering detailed information on accommodations, dining, night life, activities, shopping, real estate and local events, this popular website also features area maps, deals, discounts and our "priceless" local publications.

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We Bring Savannah's History To Life is not just a slogan ....it's our promise.Along with our uniquely personal descriptions of Savannah's rich and spellbinding history, actual historical re-enactors appear from time to time, boarding and walking the aisles of your trolley. During the day, we bring history to life, but at night, we bring the DEAD to life

SAVANNAH SCENE MAGAZINE

Contents

November-December 2021 41st Year, Issue #5

FEATURES

6 7 38 52 58 60 62

Welcome Calendar of Events Savannah Tides Scene Puzzle Greater Savannah Map Historic Savannah Map Directory of Advertisers

SPECIAL FEATURES

Savannah Scene Must Taste Flavors from the Far East – A Visit with E-Tang’s David Xin The Monuments of River Street Top 10 Photo Spots in Savannah Civil War Savannah City Market Art Scene The Haunted Squares of Savannah Sightseeing in Savannah An Immersive Experience at Andrew Low House Museum Savannah’s Historic Cemeteries Savannah’s Historic Squares Savannah’s Irish Connection Savannah’s Architectural Styles Savannah Souvenirs Horoscopes – November/December

DEPARTMENTS Dining & Lounges Arts Activities & Outings Puzzle Answer Shopping

8 14 16 18 24 25 26 28 36 42 44 46 48 54 56 7 18 29 38 46

ABOUT OUR COVER Festive Six Pence Pub By Stephen Kasun

4 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

savannah.com

SAVANNAH’S ONLY

Riverboat Dining Experience Daytime Cruises narrated harbor cruises ☸ 1 p.m. lasts 1.5 hours ☸

Every Sat & Sun in Jan & Dec Every Wed–Sun in Feb Daily from Mar–Nov PLUS Dec 26–31 3:30 p.m. lasts 1.5 hours Sat only in Feb, Mar & Nov Daily from Apr–Oct

Evening Cruises

dinner entertainment cruise 7 p.m. year-round lasts 2 hours

narrated harbor luncheon cruise 1 p.m. lasts 1.5 hours

(reservations required)

sunday brunch cruise 1 p.m. lasts 1.5 hours

(reservations required)

Gift Cards ava i l a b l e

(call for schedule)

Specialty Cruises THANKSGIVING DAY DINNER CRUISES November 25 Sailing 1–2:30 pm or 5–7 pm

CHRISTMAS EVE CRUISES Lunch & Dinner Call for details & sail times

NEW YEARS EVE CRUISES Dinner, Gala and Party options Call for details & sail times

BOAT PARADE OF LIGHTS Call for details & sail times

For reservations & tickets, visit 9 East River Street or www.savannahriverboat.com 912.232.6404 • Departing from River Street behind City Hall savannah.com

November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 5

MEMBER Savannah Area Tourism Leadership Council Savannah Area Chamber of Commerce Brunswick-Golden Isles Chamber of Commerce Richmond Hill Chamber of Commerce Hilton Head Island-Bluffton Chamber of Commerce CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Linda Rew-Gifford

Welcome to Savannah! e’re so glad you’ve chosen to spend some of your holiday season here with us, where festive decorations and twinkling lights adorn an already stunning lineup of architectural gems, majestic oaks and avenues brimming with history. Our canopied squares in these crisper temperatures will provide just the right backdrop as you mosey through Savannah’s enchanting historic district, hopefully knocking out whatever’s left on your Christmas to-do list!

In this issue of Savannah Scene, we find something special for everyone at Saints & Shamrocks and take a tour through the past at the lovely Andrew Low House Museum. As always, our Calendar of Events keeps you up to date on what there is to do and see and our “Must Taste” dining guide features some of the

city’s most delectable dishes. Plus, discover the very best of Savannah’s offerings in our dining, shopping, and activities listings and even more great resources at www.savannah.com. Also, don’t discount the wonderful Tybee Island just because it’s a little chilly out. “Savannah’s Beach” has many things to do that don’t involve swimming, like listening to live music while filling up on fresh seafood and drinking in plenty of fresh air while walking or biking around the island. We are so proud to be a part of the Hostess City of the South, and we hope that its charm will wear off on you as well. From the Savannah Scene family to yours, we wish you high spirits and a holiday season you will always remember!

SavannahCom

SavannahMetro

DiscoverSavannah

Savannah.com

6 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Karen Cooper Lorraine Jenness Dani Ray ACCOUNTING Mallory Raley

SALES EXECUTIVE Linda Adams SALES Erika Aparicio Blane Raley

ART DIRECTOR Jennifer Mlay

GRAPHIC DESIGN Liz Shumake DISTRIBUTION Bruce McLemore John Tant

Savannah Scene® is published bimonthly by Island Communications, 513 E. Oglethorpe Ave., Suite I, Savannah, GA 31401, Phone (912) 238-1453, Fax (912) 234-7010. E-mail: scene@savannah.com. Look for us on the web at savannah.com. Savannah Scene® prints a minimum of 280,000 copies per year and is distributed to approximately 300 locations in Savannah and surrounding areas. Subscriptions are available at $24.00 (Canada, $30 US) per year, single copies at $5 for postage and handling (Canada, $6.00 US). Send check to Island Communications, P.O. Box 5511, Hilton Head Island, SC 299385511. The design, concept and contents of Savannah Scene® are copyrighted and may not in any manner be reproduced in part or whole without written permission from the publisher. Every effort is made to provide dependable information; however, the publisher does not warrant that the content herein is complete or accurate. Any rates, special offers, etc. are subject to change and are not guaranteed by Island Communications. Copyright 2021 Savannah Scene® All Rights Reserved

savannah.com

CALENDAR

November S M T 1

December S M T

Ongoing

Learn the incredible story of the transformation of the Telfair family mansion into the oldest public art museum in the South by joining The Mansion to Museum Tour at the savannah.com

Telfair Academy. Tours are free with museum admission. 10 a.m. (Tues.-Sat. only), 12 p.m., 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. 121 Barnard St. (912) 790-8800 or www.telfair.org.

Ongoing

Telfair Museums presents Sylvia Shaw Judson’s iconic sculpture Bird Girl within the context of the history and art of Bonaventure Cemetery. Made famous by Jack Leigh‘s photograph for the cover of John Berendt’s bestselling novel of Savannah, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, Judson’s sculpture was moved from the cemetery to Telfair Museums, where it has been enjoyed by visitors for decades. This exhibition connects visitors to the history of Bonaventure, from Mary Telfair’s visits to the cemetery in the 19th century to the present day. Telfair Academy, 121 Barnard St. (912) 790-8800 or www.telfair.org.

Ongoing

“David Gumbs: From Dust to Gold” is on display at the Jepson Center. This exhibition represents the first United States solo exhibition by Caribbean artist David Gumbs, featuring immersive, interactive digital installations and drawings. Gumbs is a multidisciplinary artist from the island of Saint Martin. Gumbs will show his large-scale installation, Blossoms, exhibit new interactive video works and show drawings on paper linking his new media work November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 7

SAVANNAH SCENE

Must Taste

hen visiting Savannah, getting a taste of its unique culinary options is an absolute must. With varied cuisines and atmospheres to choose from, this is a city that celebrates both haute cuisine and Southern fare. Here are just a few spots you don’t want to miss during your stay.

Savannah Riverboat Cruises

9 E. River St. (912) 232-6404 savannahriverboat.com

Al Salaam Deli

2311 Habersham St. (912) 447-0400 alsalaamdeli.com

E-Tang

513 E. Oglethorpe Ave., #H (912) 335-1993 www.etangfood.com

Goose Feathers Caféé

39 Barnard St. (912) 233-4683 goosefeatherscafe.com

CALENDAR to his practice of intuitive drawing. 207 York St. (912) 790-8800 or www.telfair.org.

Mondays

Tybee Island Historical Society offers a special walking tour of the Historic Endicott Gun Batteries at 9 a.m. This is a chance to learn how the late 1880s sea coast fortifications worked during the beginning of the last century. The cost is $15 for the tour, and includes admission to the Tybee Island Lighthouse and Museum. Children must be 13 years or older to participate. Reservations required. 30 Meddin Dr., Tybee Island. (912) 786-5801 or www.tybeelighthouse.org.

Wednesdays-Mondays

The Tybee Island Light Station and Museum, Georgia’s oldest and tallest lighthouse, is open 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m., depending on weather conditions. This complete light station’s history dates back to 1736. The tower stands 145 feet tall and has three Light Keeper’s Cottages nearby. A small 1812 Summer Kitchen holds archaeological finds. Across the street is an 1899 Military Battery that houses the Tybee Island Museum. A raised cottage adjacent to the property showcases historic Tybee architecture. 30 Meddin Dr., savannah.com

Tybee Island. (912) 786-5801 or www. tybeelighthouse.org.

Thursdays-Saturdays

The Savannah History Museum offers “Loyalists & Liberty Battlefield Tours.” March through history and learn about the American Revolution in Savannah. Experience a black powder demonstration, immerse yourself in 1779 Savannah and hear about the personalities that shaped the city’s fight for freedom. Call or visit the website to confirm dates and times of tours. 303 MLK Jr. Blvd. (912) 651-6840 or www.chsgeorgia.org.

Thursdays

A virtual “Food for Thought” program at the Jewish Educational Alliance. Call or visit the website for a complete schedule of events. 5111 Abercorn St. (912) 355-8111 or visit www.savj.org.

First Fridays

Savannah Folk Music Society presents “First Friday for Folk Music” at First Presbyterian Church, 7:30-10 p.m. Enjoy a smoke-free, alcohol-free and family-friendly evening of music in a coffee house setting. $5 minimum suggested donation. Call or visit the website to confirm dates and times. First Presbyterian Church, 520 Washington Ave. (912) 898-1876 or www.savannahfolk.org. November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 9

SAVANNAH SCENE

Must Taste (CONTINUED)

17Hundred90

307 E. President St. (912) 236-7122 17hundred90.com

Crystal Beer Parlor

301 W. Jones St. (912) 349-1000 crystalbeerparlor.com

Six Pence Pub

Savannah Taste Experience

(912) 221-4439 savannahtasteexperience.com

245 Bull St. (912) 233-3156 sixpencepub.com

CALENDAR Second Saturdays

The Savannah Art Walk begins with a 2 p.m. welcome reception, with complimentary cocktails provided by The Hyatt Hotel. Here you will receive a map and meet some of the sponsoring artists. After your walk, meet us at The Perry Lane Hotel at 6 p.m. for more complimentary beverages and a raffle of art and prizes. Reservations required. Please visit the website to confirm dates and times. www. savannahartwalk.com.

Saturdays

tion. Silhouettes, which started out as profiles cut from black fabric or paper, were often referred to as “profile shades” or “shadows.” 207 W. York St. For more information, call (912) 790-8800 or visit www.telfair.org.

November 5-6

FEFC’s Youth Theater Ensemble brings to life The Hobbit by JRR Tolkien. This fast-paced adaptation, by Edward Mast, captures the quest of comfortable hobbit, Bilbo Baggins, and a knot of dwarves as they travel to the Lonely Mountain to evict a dragon and reclaim a lost kingdom. 7 p.m. The Tybee Post Theater, 10 Van Horne Ave., Tybee Island. www.tybeeposttheater.org.

The Forsyth Farmers’ Market is held 9 a.m.– 1 p.m., rain or shine, at the south end of Forsyth Park. A variety of vendors offer produce and products to residents and visitors alike. Local items include seasonal produce, eggs, honey, pastured meat, bread, cheese, mushrooms, fresh herbs, vegetable sauces, preserves, coffee beans, heirloom seeds and potted plants. www.forsythfarmersmarket.org.

November 6-7

November 1-November 28

November 11

The Jepson Center hosts “In the Shadows” exploring the art of the silhouette through works in Telfair Museums’ permanent collecsavannah.com

Join the Savannah Rock ‘n’ Roll Marathon and Half Marathon and run the charming, scenic course through the Historic District with Southern hospitality at every turn. Includes a two-person Half Marathon Relay, 5K, 1 Mile and KIDS ROCK. There will be running, highenergy music on the course, postrace entertainment and more. For more information, visit www.runrocknroll.com/savannah. The entrance fee to the Fort Pulaski National Monument will be waived. Fort Pulaski National Monument is Savannah’s National Park. The November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 11

CALENDAR fort, one of the nation’s best preserved nineteenth century coastal forts, was the site of a significant artillery battle during the American Civil War. The Park offers breathtaking architecture, stellar panoramic views and miles of trails to explore. Feel free to experience a rangerled fort tour, catch a cannon firing or enjoy the island at your own pace. There’s something for the entire family to enjoy. The Visitor Center is open from 9 a.m.-5 p.m. and the fort is open 9 a.m.-4:45 p.m. 101 Fort Pulaski Rd. (912) 786-5787 or www.nps.gov/fopu.

November 12-14 and 19-21

The Historic Savannah Theatre presents “Always Patsy Cline.” This stirring off-Broadway tribute to the legendary country singer includes all 27 of Patsy’s most famous songs. Evening performances on November 12, 13, 19 and 20 at 8 p.m. Matinee performances on November 14, 20 and 21 at 3 p.m. 222 Bull St. (912) 233-7764. Get tickets, info and read reviews at www.savannahtheatre.com.

November 13

Embrace the changing of the leaves under the beautiful trees of Chippewa Square for a casual, weekend concert performed by the Savannah Philharmonic Brass Quintet. All are welcome to attend this free, one-hour concert. No ticket or RSVP is required. 3 p.m. For more information, visit www.savannahphiharmonic.org.

November 16

“The Disney Princess in Concert” will be on stage at the Johnny Mercer Theatre. An allstar quartet of Broadway and animated film icons celebrate all Disney Princesses in an unforgettable evening of story, animation and song. 7 p.m. 301 W. Oglethorpe Ave. For more information and ticket purchases, visit www.savannahcivic.com.

November 19-21

As Christmas time approaches what better way to get ready for the holiday season than to stroll for treasures at this year’s awardwinning 32nd annual Christmas Made in the South! This nationally acclaimed event is a fantastic way to ease into your holiday shopping and find that special holiday gift for that hard to shop for friend. riday- aturday, a.m.-6 p.m. and Sunday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. The Savannah Convention Center, 1 International Dr. www.madeinthesouthshows.com/ savannah-details.

November 20

The Tybee Post Theater presents “Memories of Elvis!” Fans of the king won’t want to miss

(continued on pg. 37)

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LARGE OUTDOOR SEATING AREA GREAT INDOOR SEATING AREA

ORDER TAKEOUT ONLINE CRYSTALBEERPARLOR.COM DINING & LOUNGES HISTORIC DISTRICT

17Hundred90 Inn & Restaurant

(912) 236-7122 www.17hundred90.com 307 E. President St., D-7 on map. 17Hundred90 has been a tradition in Savannah for over a century, and has been acclaimed as “the most elegant restaurant in Savannah” by Gourmet Magazine. Named for the year it was constructed, 17Hundred90 captures the authentic feel of an eighteenthcentury port restaurant. The owners hope your visit to 17Hundred90 will complement your memories for years to come and remain a highlight of your stay in historic Savannah. Dinner, 5-9 p.m. Piano nightly. See ad page 11.

Crystal Beer Parlor

(912) 349-1000 www.crystalbeerparlor.com 301 W. Jones St., G-3 on map. Celebrating over 80 years in business, Crystal Beer Parlor, which is located in the heart of historic Savannah, continues to be one of the savannah.com

most beloved landmarks in the city. Great food, great beers and great times have been a tradition at Crystal Beer Parlor for generations. Don’t miss their creamy crab stew, juicy burgers and “gawgia cracka” nachos, not to mention great sandwiches, seafood and salads. Open Tues.-Sun., 11 a.m.9 p.m. Closed Mon. Limited seating indoors, in addition to outdoor seating. See ad page 13.

E-Tang

(912) 335-1993 www.etangfood.com 513 E. Oglethorpe Ave., Suite H, E-8 on map. One of the newest restaurants in the Historic District, E-Tang serves up authentic Sichuan Chinese food, specializing in flavorful dishes such as pan fried pork dumplings, twice cooked pork belly, crispy duck, fish fillet with tofu, griddle cooked beef with mixed veggies, crispy spicy chicken and much more. Open daily, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. See ad page 15.

Goose Feathers Café

(912) 233-4683 or Toll Free (866) 221-1948 www.goosefeatherscafe.com November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 13

FLAVORS

from the

FAR EAST

A Visit with

E-TANG’S DAVID XIN

by Dani Ray

here’s a new restaurant in town, and it’s just what Savannah’s been missing. Early reviews indicate that this “top-notch,” “elevated” Chinese fare “rivals what you would find in bigger cities like New York. Why? Because E-Tang was founded by a group of chefs who worked for many years in Manhattan and Flushing — the most famous Chinatowns in the world. In 2021, they relocated down south to bring the spicy, aromatic bliss of Sichuan cuisine to Savannah. So what is Sichuan (sounds like si-shwaan) food? It originates from China’s Sichuan Province, whose capital, Chengdu, was declared a UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2011. Its key avor is the intense and fragrant Sichuan pepper, and other commonly used spices including garlic, chili peppers, ginger and star anise. While it’s generally considered quite spicy, “we serve a lot of non-spicy food as well,” says Owner David Xin. “And you can order our menu items at different levels of heat.” If you’re not sure just how spicy to go, E-Tang’s staff is well ualified to help guide your

decision. “We train our staff for a long time, and we cook for them every day before opening. They have all tasted every dish, so they know exactly what each one looks like and tastes like,” David adds. Dishes like their Twice Cooked Pork Belly with garlic leaf and green pepper, Crispy Duck, the Fish Fillet with tofu in spicy sauce, Griddle Cooked Beef with mixed veggies and the Crispy Spicy Chicken, lightly fried and bejeweled with red chili peppers, green onions and sesame oil. Perhaps even more buzzworthy than the sumptuous menu is this: Dim Sum is coming. In about a month, David estimates, E-Tang will be making this Silk Road staple in-house. “We’re bringing on a dedicated chef to make it fresh at the bar every day, we’re just waiting on the bamboo steamer from China.” Um, swoon. In the meantime, though, you can settle into a comfy booth and enjoy some of the world’s most celebrated dishes in E-Tang’s tasteful and spacious interior. Aglow with traditional Chinese lanterns and paper umbrella lamps, the restaurant’s layered reds, intricate screens and decorative walls reference the Tang Dynasty’s Imperial Palace, the beating heart of a “golden age” historians consider the height of Chinese civilization. It’s beautiful. It’s also conveniently located right next door to the Savannah Scene office on glethorpe and open for lunch and dinner every day! David smiles. “We’re here to bring the best, most authentic avors to avannah’s istoric District. We’re serious about quality, and we really care about the customer experience.” So, are you ready to give your tastebuds the kick they deserve? Get to E-Tang!

E-Tang 513 E. Oglethorpe Ave., #H (912) 335-1993 or (912) 349-1966 www.etangfood.com

14 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

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DINING & LOUNGES 39 Barnard St., between Broughton and Congress Sts., C-4 on map. Fresh breakfast items, sandwiches, salads, coffee and espresso drinks at modest prices. Family-owned and operated. Mon., Thurs. and Fri., 7:30 a.m.2:30 p.m. and Sat. and Sun., 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m. See ad page 9.

Six Pence Pub & Restaurant

(912) 233-3156 www.sixpencepub.com 245 Bull St. (across from The DeSoto Hotel), F-5 on map. Sandwiches, soups, salads and hearty fare served in an Old English Pub atmosphere. Famous for their tasty French onion soup and delicious specials, with 24 craft and local beers on tap. Open Sun.Thurs., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. and Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m.Midnight. See ad page 7.

MIDTOWN

Al Salaam Deli

(912) 447-0400 www.alsalaamdeli.com 2311 Habersham St., R-8 on map. Nestled savannah.com

in the heart of Midtown Savannah and north of famous Victory Dr., Al Salaam Deli has been voted Best Middle Eastern Restaurant every year since 2010! Treat yourself to fresh, made-to-order Middle Eastern delicacies, such as delicious falafel, gyros, Kufta Kabobs, fatoush and hummus, as well as baba ganoush. The menu also includes hamburgers, chicken gyros and salads. The owners put love and care into the preparation of their dishes and are proud to share their rich culinary traditions with customers. Open Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-7 p.m. See ad page 12.

RIVER STREET

Savannah Riverboat Cruises

(912) 232-6404 or Toll Free (800) 786-6404 www.savannahriverboat.com 9 E. River St., A-5 on map. Entertainment, dinner and gracious Southern hospitality. Take a cruise along the historic Savannah River. Offering Dinner and Entertainment Cruises, Monday Gospel Dinner Cruise, Luncheon Cruises and a Sunday Brunch Cruise. Food is specially prepared by their very own executive chef. Seasonal schedule, call for availability. See ad page 5. November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 15

The Monuments OF RIVER STREET

There is an unbelievable amount of history up and down Savannah’s cobblestone riverfront. And the monuments placed along the river pay homage to our city's past and allow visitors to enjoy their statuesque beauty and symbolism. A WORLD APART:

The World War II Monument is also known as The Cracked Earth Monument. The two halves of the globe are split, representing the conflict of a world divided. The monument is lit at night, and inside are the names of all who served from Chatham County, a Purple Heart and a WWII Victory Medal. A World Apart is located at the center of River Street, on the west side of the Hyatt tunnel.

THE WAVING GIRL:

Greeting every ship that comes into the Savannah port is the statue com16 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

memorating Florence Martus, the waving girl. Between 1887 and 1931, Florence took it upon herself to be the greeter of all the ships in the harbor, waving them down with a white handkerchief or lantern. She was the daughter of an ordinance sergeant at Fort Pulaski, living on Elba Island with her brother and a border collie. Though there are several speculations as to why she waved down every boat, one of them being that she was waiting for a sailor she fell in love with to return, the true reason is still a mystery. The statue is located at the east end of River Street in a grassy area savannah.com

By KudzuVine - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia. org/w/index.php?curid=7434043 (left)

sold and bought together from the African continent...Today, we are standing up together, with faith and even some joy.” It stands on the east side of River Street, right by the Hyatt tunnel.

WASHINGTON’S GUNS:

near the Marriott hotel.

THE ANCHOR MONUMENT:

This monument was founded by Margaret Campbell, who organized the Port of Savannah Chapter of the Women’s Propeller Club. It was built in 1976 and dedicated to all merchant seamen lost at sea.

THE AFRICAN-AMERICAN MONUMENT:

This monument was built in 2002, designed by Savannah College of Art and Design professor Dorothy Spradley. It shows a family embracing with the chain of slavery at their feet. The side of the monument has a powerful inscription by Maya Angelou, a selection of it reading: “We were stolen, savannah.com

These two cannons were presented to the Chatham Artillery by George Washington in 1791, after he seized them from Cornwallis at Yorktown during the American Revolution. The guns were originally named La Populaire and were of French make in 1756. Later, during the Civil War, the guns were buried beneath the Chatham Artillery armory until 1872. They now sit on Bay Street, just to the right of City Hall, next to the top level of River Street.

THE OLD HARBOR LIGHT:

Also known as the Savannah Harbor Rear Range Light or the Beacon Range Light, it was built in 1858 to guide ships into the Savannah Harbor and away from six British ships which were sunk earlier in 1779 to keep French and American vessels away in the Revolutionary War. It was turned off during World War II, but has since been restored twice. It now sits at the east side of Emmet Park. November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 17

TOP

photo spots in SAVANNAH

THE WAVING GIRL STATUE. This statue commemorates Florence Martus, the lighthouse keeper’s sister, who waved to ships in Savannah’s port for more than 44 years. Morrell Park

THE FORSYTH PARK FOUNTAIN. Erected in 1858 and designed to resemble the grand fountain in Paris. Forsyth Park

SERGEANT WILLIAM JASPER. The monument of Sergeant Jasper, who fell during the Siege of Savannah in 1779. Madison Square

VIETNAM MEMORIAL. Dedicated in 1991, the design and layout of this memorial is in the shape of Vietnam, and is a salute to fallen comrades. Emmett Park

TOMOCHICHI. This boulder marks the grave of Tomochichi, the Yamacraw Indian Chief who welcomed the first colonists. Wright Square

WORLD WAR I MEMORIAL. Lists the “Chatham County Honor Roll,” those who died in World War I. Northwest corner of Daffin Park at Victory Drive

SAVANNAH’S OLYMPIC FLAME. Savannah was the site of the 1996 TYBEE ISLAND LIGHT STATION. Olympic yachting events and the The Light Station has been guiding flame burned throughout the duration of the games in Atlanta. mariners' safe entrance into the Savannah River for over 270 years. Morrell Park Tybee Island WASHINGTON’S GUNS. These guns were taken at the battle of GENERAL JAMES EDWARD OGLETHORPE. This bronze statue Yorktown and presented to the of General Oglethorpe faces south, Chatham Artillery by General protecting Savannah from the George Washington when he Spanish in Florida to this day. visited Savannah in 1791. Bay and Drayton Street Chippewa Square

18 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

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ARTS ART GALLERIES

Kathryn Riechert/Signature Gallery

(912) 233-3082 www.facebook.com/signaturesavannah 303 W. St. Julian St., City Market, B-3 on map. Located in the heart of Savannah’s City Market for over 25 years, Signature is a cooperative gallery of local artists who offer a wide variety of fine local art, ceramics, wood turning, sculpture, glass works and jewelry. Stop by to take a look at the work of many of Savannah’s talented artists, and find the perfect piece to remember your visit. Open daily, 10 a.m.6 p.m. See ad page 25.

Lisa Rosenmeier Art Studio

(912) 247-8922 www.lisarosenmeier.com 308 W. St. Julian St., Studio #FNU-104, located in City Market’s upper level, B-3 on map. This is where Lisa Rosenmeier creates in paint the color of life. You can watch her paint daily on any number of works. Her pieces range from the beautiful, detailed views found in everyday life, to more meaningful pieces that can move you emotionally. The message in many of her pieces lies just beyond the obvious and can be missed with a passing glance. Worth the look, as some pieces are available to be purchased directly from the artist. Open Mon.-Fri., 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. See ad page 25.

Railey Cooley Art

(540) 905-5021 www.raileycooley.com 309 W. St. Julian St., FSU-2, B-3 on map. Located in City Market, visit the newest art gallery in which Railey Cooley’s works consist of oil paintings of wild animals, human portraits and customized art. A graduate of the College of Charleston, Railey studied the classics for three years at the Florence Academy of Art in Italy. Upon returning stateside, she was active in the institution’s newly established branch in New York City and later was selected to be part of the distinguished Copyist program at the Metropolitan Museum of Art where she earned a spot in their catalogue. While working abroad in India, Railey became intrigued to see the “incredibly majestic” wild animals up close and began focusing her love and skills on lions, producing a very well-received series of studies on the King of the Jungle. Open Mon.-Fri., 10 a.m.-6 p.m. See ad page 25. savannah.com

November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 19

ARTS Samantha Claar “Painting the Gullah Stories”

(404) 966-3647 or (912) 417-4142 www.finefolkgalleries.com 409 E. York St. at Habersham St., D-8 on map. Located in the GCD Home Furnishings and Décor store near Columbia Square, visit Resident Artist Samantha Claar’s awardwinning art of the Gullah-Geechee people of the Lowcountry. Featuring original paintings, giclées, prints, cards and much more that introduce and illuminate this amazing culture that gave us the “South” that we appreciate today. Come “sit a spell” in homey surroundings and celebrate with us. Her work can also be found at Gallery 80 on Tybee & Framing, 1207 F Hwy. 80 East, Tybee Island. Open Mon.-Thurs., 10 a.m.-6 p.m. and Sun., 12-4 p.m. See ad page 21.

Savannah Gallery of Art

(912) 358-0287 www.savannahgalleryofart.com 304 E. Bryan Street at Lincoln St., B-7 on map. Savannah Gallery of Art is a brand-new gallery recently established by ten local Savannah 20 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

artists presenting art for sale from a wide variety of mediums including painting, drawing, jewelry, photography, turned wood, sculpture, ceramics and more. In our special “Spotlight” Exhibition Room, we promote select guest artists for monthlong exhibits. The gallery is open Mon.-Thurs., 10:30 a.m.5 p.m.; Fri. and Sat., 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. and Sun., 12-5 p.m. Stay connected through our website and Instagram: @savannahgalleryofart for gallery news and information about exclusive shows and opening events. See ad page 20.

Stephen Kasun Fine Art Studio and Gallery

(407) 474-0411 www.kasunstudio.com 306 W. Congress St., B-3 on map. Located in the gallery next to the Spartina Store and Belford’s Restaurant at City Market, Stephen Kasun paints his colorful impressionist, palette knife oil paintings of Savannah and her magnificent beauty. Open daily, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. See ad page 18.

JEWELRY

13 Secrets

(912) 484-0985 savannah.com

ARTS www.13secret.com 426 E. Oglethorpe Ave. and 300 W. River St., Bldg. C, D-8 and B-2 on map. Featuring local and international award-winning artists, 13 Secrets is a trendsetting jewelry gallery in historic downtown Savannah, offering original pieces and exceptional customer service to shoppers. 13 Secrets updates its design collections each month to create a unique shopping experience. Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-7 p.m. and Sun., 12-6 p.m. See ad page 19.

Atelier Galerie

(912) 233-3140 www.agsavannah.com 150 Abercorn St. (at Oglethorpe Ave.), D-6 on map. Showcasing locally handcrafted jewelry made right in the shop, as well as a unique collection from regional and national jewelry artisans. Suitable for all types of collectors, each handcrafted piece of jewelry tells its own story. Locally owned, Atelier Galerie has specialized in sterling and gemstone jewelry and on-trend jewelry for over 20 years. You’ll find the finest selection of locally made Savannah charms, jewelry, ornasavannah.com

ments and paintings — a collection you won’t find anywhere else. All are reasonably priced for gifts or for yourself. Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. and Sun., 11 a.m.-4 p.m. See ad page 23.

Savannah Jewelry Gallery

(912) 777-2223 307 W. Bryan St., B-3 on map. Formerly known as Golden Realm in City Market, Savannah Jewelry Gallery is now representing local jewelry artists. Displayed are pieces ranging from traditional engagement rings to contemporary alumni work from SCAD. At SJG, we work closely with our clients to provide one-of-a-kind custom jewelry for that special day. If a ring catches your eye, we also offer same-day ring resizing. Additionally, we offer in-house custom-cut gemstone services for those searching for a unique look. If you’re coming to Savannah for a weekend, SJG is a must-see jewelry gallery! Open daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. See ad page 22.

MUSEUMS

Telfair Museums (912) 790-8800

November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 21

YM T I C

E RK

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Photos from Savannah City Market, Facebook

Art In Savannah Savannah’s quality of life is unrivaled by any comparably sized city in the South. In fact, part of the appeal of Georgia’s First City lies in its surprisingly rich array of cultural offerings from the visual arts to live music. Savannah is home to more than 40 galleries, the oldest art museum in the South and the Savannah College of Art and Design. Literally thousands of artists, including students and professionals, flock to this city with its history of strong support for the arts. The relationship between Savannah and its creative residents is reciprocal: not only has the city supported its artists, but its artists have played a key role in the city’s continued growth and vitality. Just a quick elevator ride to the upperlevel studios in the Franklin Ward North and Franklin Ward South Buildings in Historic City Market is where you will discover a wide variety of original art. Take the time to explore the area and visit with more than 50 artists as they bring the “Art of Savannah” to life — all of which is as unique as the city itself. 22 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

savannah.com

ARTS www.telfair.org 121 Barnard St., D-4 on map. With three diverse buildings housing artwork ranging from classic to cutting edge, Telfair Museums offer an incomparable visitor experience. The museum’s three sites — two National Historic Landmarks and a contemporary Moshe Safdie-designed building — are located within walking distance of one another in Savannah’s vibrant Historic District. One admission fee allows access to all three venues over a weeklong period. You can admire original works of art at the Jepson Center, be transported back to the nineteenth century at the Owens-Thomas House or view the permanent collection at the Telfair Academy. Open daily. See ad page 34.

TYBEE ISLAND

Gallery 80 on Tybee & Framing

(912) 675-7457 www.gallery80ontybee.com 1207 F Highway 80 East, Tybee Island, M-17 on map. One of the newest art galleries savannah.com

on Tybee Island, Gallery 80 on Tybee & Framing offers a very eclectic mix of art. This includes two different and talented jewelers, in addition to original paintings done in watercolors, acrylics and mixed media, plus wood artistry, gourd art, handmade pottery and textile art. Come see us, as we strive to have something for everyone! Open Mon., Wed.-Sat., 11 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sun., 12-3 p.m. See ad page 20.

WEB

Savannah.com

(912) 238-1453 www.savannah.com A true pedestrian-friendly city with hundreds of years of history, within footsteps of fabulous hotels, bed and breakfasts and vacation rentals. Restaurants in the city are as diverse and unique as its population, with culinary surprises awaiting around every corner. Explore the city on your own, or select from the many tours that will leave you with a fond and lasting memory. This popular website is a guide to the Hostess City of the South, and features a detailed calendar, area maps and deals/discounts. See ad page 2. November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 23

Civil War SAVANNAH Fort Pulaski by Allison Hersh

uring the Civil War, Savannah faced one of the biggest challenges in the city’s illustrious history. Strongly allied with the Confederacy, Savannah encountered formidable gunfire, economic hardship and bloody battles during the Civil War. To this day, in fact, many Savannahians use the term, “The War of Northern Aggression,” resisting the idea that there was anything “civil” about this merciless war. Countless Savannah soldiers perished defending the Confederacy, many of whom have been buried with honors at historic Laurel Grove Cemetery, located on the city’s west side. During the early part of the Civil War, Fort Pulaski played an important role in defending Savannah from Union troops. A masonry fort, Fort Pulaski was thought to be invincible. In April of 1862, however, Union troops fired rifled cannons from Tybee Island, under the direction of Union General Quincy A. Gilmore, for more than 30 hours. Union troops fired over 5,000 shells upon Fort Pulaski before Confederate General Charles Olmstead surrendered the fort on April 11, 1862. After the fall of Fort Pulaski, the city of Savannah prepared for war. A Union blockade, with strongholds in Port Royal, SC, and Hilton Head Island, SC, put pressure on Savannah, blocking port commerce and causing rampant inflation. Under General William Tecumseh Sherman, the Union army marched steadily towards Savannah in 1864, burning cities, towns and plantations along the way. Sherman’s troops “spread out to cut a path of destruction sixty miles wide through the heart of Georgia,” writes Preston Russell in Savannah: A History of Her People Since 1733. “They lived off the fat of the land they did not destroy.” When Sherman’s troops approached Fort McAllister in nearby Richmond Hill, they encountered an elabo-

24 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

rate earthenwork fort along the Ogeechee River. The fort, which is now a historic state park, separated the Union army from the Union navy (and vital supplies for the troops). Fort McAllister operated under the command of Confederate commander George W. Anderson, with 150 defenders. On December 13, 1864, they faced 1,500 Union troops in a violent battle that led to the fall of Fort McAllister. Sherman’s troops advanced towards Savannah, threatening to “cast heavy and destructive shot[s] as far as the heart of your city.” Mayor Richard Arnold surrendered Savannah to Sherman’s army, protecting the city from destruction. Sherman sent his now-legendary message to President Lincoln on December 22, 1864, informing the president: “I beg to present to you as a Christmas gift, the City of Savannah with 150 heavy guns and plenty of ammunition, and also about 25,000 bales of cotton.” During his occupation of Savannah, Sherman took up residence at the Green-Meldrim Mansion on Madison Square, a spectacular Gothic revival home owned by Charles Green. The building that currently houses the restaurant Tondee’s Tavern, located on E. Bay Street, served as Sherman’s Civil War military headquarters in Savannah. After capturing Savannah, Sherman’s army headed north to invade South Carolina, en route to Columbia and Charleston. In the wake of the Civil War, Savannah, like much of the South, faced the long, difficult task of Reconstruction. At the end of the war, the city of Savannah faced nearly $400,000 in debt, along with a decimated regional economy. With the railroads destroyed by Union troops, Savannah’s lucrative cotton trade stagnated. It would take decades before the city recovered – economically, emotionally and politically – from the ravages of war. savannah.com

City Market

Art Scene

Historic City Market is the “Art & Soul of Savannah.” Just a quick elevator ride to the upper level studios in the Franklin Ward North and Franklin Ward South Buildings is where you will discover a wide variety of original art. Take the time to explore the area and visit with more than 50 artists as they bring the “Art of Savannah” to life - all of which is as unique as the city itself.

savannah.com

November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 25

THE HAUNTED SQUARES OF

SAVANNAH By Andrea Six

Madison Square

Unsettling stories of torture, suicide and war sulk in the shadows of homes and historic areas all around Georgia’s First City. Though much of the landscape has changed, a few things have not. Some say these things are spirits who won’t leave their places of tragedy, while others say peoples’ minds play tricks on them. If you’d like to find out for yourself, explore these supposedly supernatural squares in Savannah.

Just beyond Madison Square is the ground on which many lives were lost fighting during the Battle of Savannah. Before it was named after President James Madison, rumors of spirits and reports of paranormal activity surfaced. Some say a mass grave for dead soldiers lay in this very location, though there is no confirmation. Anchored by the statue of William Jasper, the square’s most common ghost has an eerie resemblance to the sculpture – a solid black shadow in the shape of a full-grown man. Perhaps even more unnerving is the fact that the Sorrel-Weed House – a home where Matilda Sorrel supposedly committed suicide, which has been investigated by Ghost Hunters and featured on HGTV’s If Walls Could Talk and Travel Channel’s The Most Terrifying Places in America – opens onto the square. Also notable is that the Green-Meldrim House is on this square, which was General Sherman’s Headquarters during the Civil War.

Reynolds Square Yellow Fever’s devastion plagued the early days of Savannah, but just off Reynolds Square, there is rumored to have been a property where malaria patients were committed that included a makeshift crematorium. Legend says victims were wrapped in sheets and burned, right in the middle of what is now Reynolds Square, to keep the disease from spreading. Perhaps that’s why visitors’ photos of John Wesley’s monument feature strange apparitions and spots in the background?

Legend says victims of yellow fever were wrapped in sheets and burned, right in the middle of what is now Reynolds Square, to keep the disease from spreading.

The apparition of James Habersham Jr. has been seen at The Olde Pink House, which opens onto this square, as well as his grandson, who likes to order a beer at the basement bar. (Be careful in the basement, because slave children have been known to play tricks on people down there.)

Wright Square Today, Wright Square may be a beautifully shaded section of land where guests learn a little history and enjoy a snack from one of the nearby cafés, but it wasn’t always a place people wanted to visit. One of Savannah’s original squares, this site once held the gallows where many lives were taken. Memorialized in Wright Square, Yamacraw

Chief Tomochichi was buried here in 1739, but 100 years later, his grave was desecrated by the city to make way for a monument to William Washington Gordon, a prominent politician and president of the Central Railroad and Banking Company. Does it come as a surprise that Tomochichi is still spotted centuries later? However, it’s Alice Riley who has attracted the most attention. As the story goes, she traveled to Savannah in 1733 with her domineering husband and several Irish servants. One year later, her husband was found dead in their home – murder suspected. Alice and one of the servants, Richard White, were missing and when suspicion arose, they were sentenced to death. Though she maintained her innocence, ultimately both were hung and Alice was supposedly left on the gallows for three days.

JEPSON CENTER FOR THE ARTS

SIGHTSEEING

IN SAVANNAH collection, as well as outstanding special exhibits throughout the year. Interactive childrens’ exhibits, café, gift shop and more. 207 W. York St., Telfair Square, (912) 790-8800

Savannah College of Art and Design

The largest art col-

When it comes to sightseeing, Savannah has some of the finest historic homes, museums and historic sites in the Southeast. From Civil War forts to English Regency house museums, Savannah offers a broad range of sightseeing options for visitors and residents alike. With all of the area’s unique history, art and architecture, be sure to take the time to enjoy all that Savannah has to offer.

ARTS

Beach Institute AfricanAmerican Cultural Center

The permanent home of the Ulysses Davis folk art collection, the Beach Institute features changing exhibits of African-American art and cultural artifacts. 502 E. Harris St., (912) 234-8000

City Market Art Center

The upstairs level of City Market is filled with original paintings, sculpture and photography by area artists. Jefferson at W. St. Julian St., (912) 234-2327

City of Savannah, Department of Cultural Affairs, S.P.A.C.E.

(Savannah’s Place for Art, Culture and Education). Info line: (912) 525-3100, ext. 2863

Jepson Center for the Arts

Savannah’s newest art museum, featuring a stellar permanent

America’s greatest writers, the Flannery O’Connor House features artifacts from O’Connor’s years in Savannah. 207 E. Charlton St., (912) 233-6014

Green-Meldrim Mansion

General Sherman’s Civil War headquarters, the Green-Meldrim Mansion is a fine example of neo-Gothic architecture and features a magnificent interior. Bull St. at Madison Square, (912) 232-1251

The Harper Fowlkes House

This elegantly restored 1842 Greek Revival mansion showcases exquisite period antiques throughout, and focuses on the mid-1800s lifestyle of early preservationist Alida Harper Fowlkes. 230 Barnard St. on Orleans Square, (912) 234-2180

MERCER-WILLIAMS HOUSE lege in the U.S., the Savannah College of Art and Design features a number of exhibits year-round in galleries across Savannah. 342 Bull St., (912) 238-2487

Telfair Museum of Art

Housed in a historic 19th-century building designed by architect William Jay, the Telfair Museum of Art features an outstanding permanent collection of paintings, sculpture and photography, as well as world-class visiting exhibitions. 121 Barnard St., (912) 790-8800

HISTORIC HOMES Andrew Low House

Built in 1848 for cotton merchant Andrew Low, this historic home features beautifully preserved interiors with period antiques. 329 Abercorn St., (912) 233-6854

Davenport House

This historic Federal-style home, built between 1815 and 1820, was the house that launched Savannah’s historic preservation movement in the 1950s. 324 E. State St., (912) 236-8097

Flannery O’Connor House

The childhood home of one of

28 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

Juliette Gordon Low House The birthplace of Juliette Gordon Low, the founder of the Girl Scouts, has been restored to its 1800s appearance, and features period antiques and artifacts from Low’s life. 142 Bull St., (912) 233-4501

King-Tisdell Cottage

Located in the historic Beach Neighborhood, this restored Victorian cottage, built in 1896, serves as an African-American culture museum. 514 E. Huntingdon St., (912) 236-5161

Mercer-Williams House

One of Savannah’s most historic mansions. The former home of Jim Williams, the antiques dealer immortalized in Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, is now open for tours. 429 Bull St. (enter through 430 Whitaker St.), (912) 236-6352

The Rose Hill Plantation House

A significant example of Gothic Revival residential architecture. This 1858, four-story, cruciform Gothic Revival building stands majestic and tall, with a steeply pitched copper gable roof, along with period furnishings, on 12 acres in the South Carolina Lowcountry. 199 Rose Hill Way, Bluffton, SC 29910, (843) 757-6046 savannah.com

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NOV 25 thru DEC 24

Your favorite holiday classics, plus Santa and his dancing reindeer. Fun for the entire family!

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OLD FORT JACKSON

Sorrel-Weed House

One of the first two houses in Georgia to be designated a historic landmark. The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation and SCAD Architectural Committee voted it one of the most important houses in Savannah. 6 West Harris St., (912) 236-8888

Telfair’s Owens-Thomas House

One of the finest examples of Regency architecture in the U.S., the Owens-Thomas House features a formal English garden and a restored carriage house. 124 Abercorn St., (912) 233-9743

HISTORIC SITES/FORTS

Fort McAllister Historic Site

Located in Richmond Hill, Fort McAllister features Civil War-era earthworks. Spur 144 off Hwy. 144, 22 miles south of Savannah, (912) 727-2339

Fort Pulaski National Monument

This masonry fort fell to Union troops during the Civil War and features a drawbridge, moat and cannons. On U.S. 80, 10 miles east of Savannah, (912) 786-5787

Fort Screven

Fort Screven is one of the nation’s last coastal batteries. On Tybee Island, just off U.S. 80, (912) 786-4077

Georgia Historical Society

Built in 1874-75, Hodgson Hall houses the Georgia Historical Society, and serves as a research center and exhibition hall for an extensive collection of artifacts and documents. 501 Whitaker St., (912) 651-2125

Historic Railroad Shops

An outstanding antebellum railroad repair facility and National Historic Landmark site, featuring

SORREL-WEED HOUSE a collection of steam and diesel locomotives, a blacksmith shop and a massive roundhouse. 601 W. Harris St., (912) 651-6823

Old Fort Jackson

The oldest standing fort in Georgia, Old Fort Jackson has been in use since 1808, and served as the headquarters for the Confederate river defenses during the Civil War. 1 Old Fort Jackson Rd., Islands Expressway, (912) 232-3945

Wormsloe Historic Site

A historic plantation dating back to Savannah’s earliest settlers in the 18th century, Wormsloe features tabby plantation ruins and a majestic avenue of live oaks. 7601 Skidaway Rd., (912) 353-3023

MUSEUMS

National Museum of the Mighty Eighth Air Force

A museum devoted entirely to Air Force history, featuring interactive exhibits, guided tours, special programs throughout the year, library archives, a memorial garden and more. Exit 102 on I-95, Pooler, (912) 748-8888

Oatland Island Wildlife Center

Operated by the SavannahChatham County Public Schools, this coastal nature center features a nature trail that winds through habitats with live animal exhibits such as alligators, wolves and cougars. Self-guided and guided trail walks available, as well as a variety of environmental education programs for grades Pre-K-12. Open 10 a.m.-4 p.m., except holidays. 711 Sandtown Rd., off Islands Expressway, (912) 898-3980

30 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

Ralph Mark Gilbert Civil Rights Museum

Savannah’s struggle for civil rights comes to life in interactive exhibits, artifacts and educational displays. 460 MLK Jr. Blvd., (912) 231-8900

Savannah History Museum

In the former Central of Georgia Railway station, the museum features exhibits which tell the story of Savannah from 1733 to the present. See Forrest Gump’s bench. 303 MLK Jr. Blvd., (912) 651-6825

Savannah-Ogeechee Trail Canal Museum & Nature Center Listed on the National Register of Historic Places and on the State of Georgia Birding Trail. Finest native trees and plants. 681 Fort Argyle Rd., (912) 748-8068

Ships of the Sea Museum

This maritime museum, housed in the restored Scarbrough House, offers exhibits about maritime culture, ships and commerce. 41 MLK Jr. Blvd., (912) 232-1511

Tybee Island Lighthouse and Museum

Featuring Georgia’s oldest and tallest lighthouse and a museum devoted to the history of Tybee Island. Tours are self-guided. At the Lighthouse and Head Keepers Cottage there are volunteers on hand to answer questions. U.S. 80, Tybee Island, (912) 786-5801

University of Georgia Marine Science Extension

Featuring an aquarium and ongoing educational programs. Skidaway Island, (912) 598-2496 savannah.com

ACTIVITIES & OUTINGS COCKTAIL CLASSES

Cocktail Classes in Congress Street Up

(912) 220-1249 www.americanprohibitionmuseum.com 220 W. Congress St., B-3 on map. Learn to shake and stir two Prohibition-era cocktails, with Savannah’s most talented bartenders, inside the authentic speakeasy, Congress Street Up. Complimentary Byrd’s cookies and a take-home glass are included. Classes are offered Mon.-Sat., 7-9 p.m. Reservations are required, 21 years and older and must have valid photo ID. For tickets, go to 209 W. St. Julian St. See ad page 31.

tion of local craft beers. There are plenty of TVs to catch your favorite team or favorite sport, including a jumbo projection screen. Come on in and join the fun! See ad page 63.

Island Skiff Adventure Tours

HILTON HEAD ISLAND, SC

(843) 816-5976 www.islandskifftours.com Broad Creek Marina, Hilton Head Island, SC. With an emphasis on the natural beauty of Hilton Head and the Lowcountry, come be the captain of your own boat! All tours are navigated by a professional guide. Expect stops at multiple locations, which include photo ops and wildlife sightings. Drivers must be at least 18 years old and passengers must be at least 5 years old. Come experience Hilton Head’s most thrilling ecotour! See ad page 41.

Top Dawg Tavern

Destination Vacation Hilton Head

(843) 785-5600 www.topdawgtavern.com Shelter Cove Harbour & Marina. Are you looking for that perfect place to grab a bite to eat or have a drink while visiting with friends and family? Top Dawg Tavern is the place for you! They serve fresh, quality food with a smile. Come hang out on the outdoor patio and enjoy a full selecsavannah.com

(843) 758-7774 or (877) 874-7244 www.dvhhi.com 7 Executive Park Rd. off Pope Ave. Our experienced team will help you find the perfect rental home or villa for your next Hilton Head vacation. We specialize in luxury oceanfront and beach-oriented rental homes and villas with 2 to 7 bedrooms in the resort areas of Sea Pines, Forest Beach and Palmetto Dunes. November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 31

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Historic Home Tours

Carriage Tours

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ACTIVITIES & OUTINGS Call for a vacation guide or visit us online to preview our array of properties. See ad page 53.

HISTORIC HOMES

Andrew Low House

(912) 233-6854 www.andrewlowhouse.com 329 Abercorn St. on Lafayette Sq., F-6 on map. An 1849 mansion built for cotton merchant Andrew Low, this home features beautifully preserved interiors with period antiques. This is one home you will not want to miss on your tour of Historic Savannah. Tours daily. Mon.Sat., 10 a.m.-4 p.m. and Sun., noon-4 p.m. See ad page 37.

LIVE MUSIC/THEATRE

Savannah Theatre

(912) 233-7764 www.savannahtheatre.com 222 Bull St. at Chippewa Sq., E-5 on map. The #1 downtown entertainment extravaganza brings you two hours of high-energy music and comedy. A must-see while visiting Savannah. Visit website for show times. See ad page 29. 32 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

Ghost Walking Tours

Trolley Tours

TourPass.com

MUSEUMS

American Prohibition Museum

(912) 551-4050 www.americanprohibitionmuseum.com 209 W. St. Julian St. (Upper Level, City Market), B-3 on map. The American Prohibition Museum of Savannah is the first of its kind in the country. With more than 40 wax figures, 15 immersive displays, 200 period artifacts and costumed docents, the American Prohibition Museum has something for everyone — including a fully stocked speakeasy serving up authentic period cocktails. The museum is open daily from 10 a.m.-5 p.m., with last entry at 4:15 p.m. See ad page 35.

Coastal Heritage Society

(912) 651-6840 www.chsgeorgia.org 303 MLK Jr. Blvd., F-2 on map. The mission of the Coastal Heritage Society is to provide educational experiences for the public through the preservation and presentation of the historic resources of coastal Georgia and adjacent regions. CHS was founded in 1975 and operates six historic museums! Savannah History Museum, Savannah Children’s Museum, Georgia State Railroad Museum, Harper Fowlkes House, Old Fort Jackson and Pin Point Heritage Museum are perfect for adults, families, private savannah.com

ACTIVITIES & OUTINGS events, weddings and more. See website for days and times of operation. See ad page 33.

Massie Heritage Center

(912) 395-5070 www.massieschool.com 207 E. Gordon St., H-6 on map. Massie Heritage Center was named for its benefactor, Peter Massie, who died in 1841, leaving $5,000 for the establishment of a school for the poor in Savannah. The Massie School operated as a public school until its closing in 1974, and is Georgia’s oldest school in continuous operation. The Massie Heritage Center strives to create a greater appreciation of Savannah’s rich cultural heritage by preserving the historic Massie School as an interactive exhibit space and educational facility. Both students and the general public can participate in interpretive programs that are designed to stimulate curiosity and help achieve academic goals. Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-4 p.m. and Sun., 12-4 p.m. See ad page 40.

Telfair Museums

(912) 790-8800 www.telfair.org 121 Barnard St., D-4 on map. With three diverse buildings housing artwork ranging from classic to cutting edge, Telfair Museums offer an incomparable visitor experience. The museums’ three sites — two National Historic Landmarks and a contemporary Moshe Safdiedesigned building — are located within walking distance of one another in Savannah’s vibrant Historic District. One admission fee allows access to all three venues over a weeklong period. You can admire original works of art by contemporary masters at the Jepson Center, be transported back to the nineteenth century as you tour authentic period rooms at the Owens-Thomas House or view stunning examples from the permanent collection at the Telfair Academy. Open daily. See ad page 34.

www.chsgeorgia.org

Tybee Island Light Station and Tybee Museum

(912) 786-5801 www.tybeelighthouse.org 30 Meddin Ave., Tybee Island, just off U.S. Hwy. 80, L-18 on map. Georgia’s oldest and tallest lighthouse is a complete station, featuring artifacts and exhibits of Tybee Island’s history. Visit the newly restored Head Keeper’s Cottage. Tours are self-guided with volunteers on hand to answer questions. Open 9 a.m.5:30 p.m. every day except Tues. Last ticket sold at 4:30 p.m. See ad page 39.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS

Grave Encounters Tour savannah.com

November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 33

ACTIVITIES & OUTINGS

NOEL W ANDERSON: HEAVY IS THE CROWN ON VIEW NOW TELFAIR.ORG

(912) 234-8128 www.oldsavannahtours.com/tour/ grave-encounters Historic District, F-1 on map. The Grave Encounters Tour is a welcome addition to Old Savannah Tours by “bringing the dead back to life.” As one of the nation’s most haunted cities, there are plenty of tales of tortured spirits and ghostly sightings, and along the way you may be visited by some of Savannah’s more notable ghosts. Tours begin nightly at 7:30 p.m. and reservations are suggested. See ad page 3.

My City Savannah Tour

(912) 200-8400 www.mycitysavannahtour.com 325 E. Bay St., B-7 on map. Winner of the Travel & Hospitality Award for Cultural Tour Company of the Year in Georgia, and one of the highest rated tours on TripAdvisor. From the foot of Yamacraw Bluff, where the very first colonists stepped ashore, we travel in time through some of the oldest streets and neighborhoods, ending the tour within the heart of the city as it stands today. A well-paced twohour narrative walk through one of America’s most historic cities. See ad page 33.

Old Savannah Tours

(912) 234-8128 or Toll Free (800) 517-9007 www.oldsavannahtours.com Historic District, F-1 on map. “We Bring Savannah’s History to Life” is more than just a slogan. On our daily historic tours, you’ll interact with authentic period-costumed actors portraying some of Savannah’s most prominent and historic figures. This, coupled with our 16 convenient stops and our free historic district shuttle from downtown hotels, inns and B&Bs, are all reasons why we’ve been voted “Best Tour Company” every year since 2003. As the largest locally owned and operated tour company, we strive to make our guests’ experiences the very best they can be. See ad page 3.

Old Town Trolley Tours Paperworks and tapestries by contemporary American artist Noel W Anderson raise questions about issues of race and gender, collectively exposing the haunting relationship of Black identity to structures IMAGE: sly wink, 2010; Altered Ebony [DETAIL]

(912) 208-6940 www.trolleytours.com 234 MLK Jr. Blvd., F-1 on map. The original ON/OFF tours of Savannah. Voted Best of Savannah, and endorsed by the Historic Savannah Foundation. 100% Money Back Guarantee. Hop on and off all day to see more than 100 attractions on your tour of Savannah. Pickup and drop-off approximately every 20 minutes at 15 convenient stops. Complimentary shuttle service from select area hotels. See ad page 64.

Savannah Cruzers – Golf Cart Tours of Bonaventure Cemetery 34 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

savannah.com

ACTIVITIES & OUTINGS (912) 944-7153 www.savannahcruzers.com 330 Bonaventure Rd., Thunderbolt, GA, R-11 on map. A place of beauty, history and awe! Book a tour and travel in comfort in the 5-passenger golf carts and visit Bonaventure Cemetery, which has been a world-famous tourist destination for over 150 years. Sit back and relax as your tour guide shares the history, landscape and points of interest, while being shaded from the sun and elements. From the cemetery architecture and the Spanish moss hanging from the trees, to the notable people interred here, this will be a memorable experience of Savannah and her beauty. Tours daily. See ad page 33.

Savannah Riverboat Cruises

(912) 232-6404 www.savannahriverboat.com 9 E. River St., A-5 on map. No visit to Savannah is complete without a riverboat cruise. Hear the captain’s tales and historic facts about Savannah and her port, past to present. Enjoy a ride on our riverboat replicas. Choose from sightseeing, dinner entertainment and Sunday brunch. Charters available. Visit our website for information or to purchase tickets. savannah.com

See ad page 5.

TourPass Savannah

(843) 410-2577 www.tourpass.com/savannah Travel stress-free and save up to 40% or more off retail ticket prices. TourPass includes full admission to over 30 of Savannah’s top tours, attractions and historic sites. Visit our website and choose a 1, 2 or 3-day pass. After checkout you’ll instantly receive your pass. TourPass is available for Charleston, SC, and St. Augustine, FL, as well. Purchase online only at www.tourpass.com. See ad page 32.

WATER TOURS

Captain Derek’s Dolphin Adventure Tour

(912) 658-2322 www.tybeedolphinadventure.com 3 Old U.S. Highway 80, Tybee Island, N-16 on map. Experience the thrill of encountering dolphins in their natural habitat, while taking in breathtaking views of Tybee’s serene coastal waters. From historic lighthouses, to majestic Fort Pulaski, to dolphins playing next to the boat, our tours offer something for everyone! The trip route/duration varies based on dolphin location. Cruise is 1 to 1-1/2 hours long. And oh, did we mention our enchanting sunset cruises? See ad page 40. November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 35

An Immersive Experience at Andrew Low House Museum by Dani Ray or admirers of Juliette Gordon Low or her enduring legacy, a trip to Andrew Low House Museum is a kind of pilgrimage. The home’s parlor, library, dining room and grounds are where Gordon Low’s revolutionary dream began to take shape the world’s very first irl Scouts conducted their outdoor activities in the parking lot and the carriage house served as the organization’s headquarters for many years. Although the home bears the name of Gordon Low’s fatherin-law, the dream that caught fire here belongs to millions of girls and women around the world whose lives have been changed by it. But Andrew Low House Museum, built in 1848, is not just about the legacy of the Girl Scouts. This museum, on the National Register of Historic Places, sits right down the street from the dramatic, neo-gothic Basilica of St. John the Baptist and faces iconic Lafayette Square. “It’s truly one of the most breathtaking sites in the whole city, and that’s saying a lot!” enthuses Executive Director Rebecca Eddins. This stunning hybrid of Italianate, Greek Revival and Gothic Revival styles built by the famed John Norris is also one of the few homes you can see in Savannah’s Historic District that has been both restored and preserved, as it remained in the original family’s possession until Gordon Low’s death in 1927. In 1928, The Colonial Dames purchased the home from her 36 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

estate to use as their headquarters. To be fair, though, we can’t say precisely who lived there last because the home seems to have residents who don’t exactly pay rent. “There are things that go bump in the night,” concedes Marketing & Sales Manager Ginger Varner. “I’ve not personally stayed long enough to experience the cabinets closing, footsteps downstairs, the sounds of a lady laughing, but somebody’s here.” She laughs and shrugs. “They don’t bother us, though!” Like many Savannah homes, Andrew Low House Museum embodies the contradictions so common to the American South: a forward-thinking Gordon Low under the same roof as the much-beloved but enslaved Milledges (Mosianna Milledge helped make Southern cooking famous in England) and Robert E. Lee, a dear friend who spent many nights in this house during his travels. The lives lived at Andrew Low House Museum are steeped in the details that help esh out the stories we know best, and deepen our understanding of a nation in its adolescence. Looking to see more of the Historic District’s gems for less? The Pioneers in Preservation Pass affords access to Andrew Low House Museum, the Ships of the Sea Museum and the Davenport House, with 30 days to see them all! Andrew Low House Museum 329 Abercorn St. (912) 233-1828 or (912) 233-6854 www.andrewlowhouse.com savannah.com

CALENDAR

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this one as Patrick Johnson, star of Legends on Stage, transports you back to Las Vegas in the 1970s and the glitzy highlight of Elvis Presley’s illustrious career. With a sensational voice, Patrick has all the mannerisms, moves and characteristics of the King himself. 8 p.m. 10 Van Horne Ave., Tybee Island. www. tybeeposttheater.org.

November 25

The Savannah Riverboat Cruises host their 2021 Thanksgiving Dinner Cruise. Enjoy a traditional Southern holiday buffet with live entertainment that will have you tapping your feet and getting out of your seats dancing as you cruise up and down the Savannah River. Sailing at 12:30-2:30 p.m. or 5-7 p.m. Advance reservations recommended. 9 E. River St. (912) 232-6404 or www.savannahriverboat.com.

November 27

Savannah Harbor’s Boat Parade of Lights partners with the Plant Riverside District and Savannah Riverboat Cruises for a new way to celebrate this annual tradition in 2021. Over 40 boats decorated in holiday cheer will parade the riverfront at 7 p.m. culminating in an amazing fireworks display. Revelers savannah.com

are encouraged to hop aboard the Georgia Queen riverboat as it leads the parade or enjoy VIP viewing from Plant Riverside with fabulous entertainment, St. Nick and a smorgasbord of holiday fare. For more information, visit www.savannahharborfoundation.org/ boat-parade-of-lights.

November 27

Tybee Island rings in the holidays as they light up the 18-foot tree at the beachfront roundabout. In addition to the tree lighting, you can enjoy Christmas caroling, dancing, holiday refreshments and more by the seashore. 6-9 p.m. Tybee Island Main St. For more information, call (912) 472-5071.

December 2

Join the Ronald McDonald House Charities for the 2021 Wine & Fries event. This event has become known as the night of Happy Meals for adults! Do you remember how much fun getting Happy Meals were? Imagine that same happiness combined with the perfect wine (bourbon or beer) and the added joy that with each bite, sip and auction bid you’re helping support the house that love built. For more information, visit www. rmhccoastalempire.org/events/wine-fries.

December 3

Ring in the holidays with a lighted, nighttime November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 37

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CALENDAR Christmas parade on Tybee Island. Santa will arrive in town led by a parade of lights down to the beach. 6:30-8:30 p.m. Tybee Island Main St. For more information, call (912) 472-5071.

December 5

“Christmas is Beautiful,” starring special guest artist Shelly Johnson, will be held at Southside Baptist Church with two performances at 4 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. This special and exciting night is open for the Savannah community to celebrate the season of Christmas. Christmas treats and more to be provided. Admission is free. 5502 Skidaway Rd. For more information, call (912) 355-9555 or visit www.oursbc.org.

December 5

The 50th Anniversary Tour of ALABAMA takes place at the Martin Luther King, Jr. Arena along with the Marshall Tucker Band. 7 p.m. 301 W. Oglethorpe Ave. For more information and ticket purchases, visit www.savannahcivic.com.

December 13-25

Savannah presents The Great American Gingerbread House event and competition featuring a Gingerbread Trail. The Savannah Harbor Foundation reinvented this annual tra40 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

dition and expands it into the Hostess City. Bake and build to win with your very own gingerbread house; then, sip and stroll through Savannah’s finest hotels, eateries and shops to admire the beautiful masterpieces along the way. To register and find more details of the competition, visit www.savannahgingerbread.com.

December 18

The Savannah Philharmonic Orchestra, Chorus and guest conductor, Daniel Black, perform “Holiday Pops.” Enjoy this spectacular holiday celebration filled with arrangements of festive favorites and classic carols. This concert will leave you filled with the spirit of the season and remind you why so many call it the most wonderful time of the year. The 3 p.m. matinee performance takes place at Calvary Baptist Temple, 4625 Waters Ave., and the 7:30 evening performance takes place at the Lucas Theatre for the Performing Arts, 32 Abercorn St. To purchase tickets and more information, contact (912) 232-6002 or visit www.savannahphilharmonic.org.

December 18

The Humane Society for Greater Savannah hosts “Home for the Howlidays!” This event is very special as they try to empty the shelter before Christmas. Enjoy a huge light display, photos with Santa for both dogs and children, savannah.com

CALENDAR live music, food trucks and more. 5-9 p.m. 7215 Sallie Mood Dr. For more information, call (912) 354-9515 or visit www.humanesocietysav.org.

December 24

Start your Christmas Eve celebration off with a classic Southern tradition this year onboard with Savannah Riverboat Cruises. Delight yourself over an elaborate lunch buffet filled with your favorite breakfast and lunch entrees while enjoying the sounds of the holiday spirit. Dance through the air on the lunch cruise or enjoy a specially prepared delicious holiday buffet on the dinner cruise. Lunch sailing is 1-2:30 p.m. and the dinner sailing is 5-7 p.m. Advance reservations recommended. 9 E. River St. (912) 232-6404 or www.savannahriverboat.com.

December 31

The Historic Savannah Theatre presents “Rockin’ New Year’s Eve.” Ring in the New Year with this two-hour show featuring the Rockin’ Savannah Theatre band, singers and dancers. After the show, the band will continue with their music as the audience continues to have a good time dancing and enjoying savannah.com

a complimentary champagne toast at midnight. Don’t miss the best New Year’s Eve party in Savannah! 9 p.m. 222 Bull St. (912) 233-7764. Get tickets, info and read reviews at www.savannahtheatre.com.

December 31

Celebrate New Year’s Eve in style at one of Savannah’s most fashionable events of the season! Join Savannah Riverboat Cruises on their annual New Year’s Eve Gala Celebration Cruise. This three-hour cruise includes an appetizer, elaborate surf & turf dinner buffet, live entertainment, party favors, a bottle of house wine or champagne (per couple), cash bars and more. Formal cocktail attire is highly encouraged. 9:30 p.m.-12:30 a.m. Advance reservations recommended. 9 E. River St. (912) 232-6404 or www.savannahriverboat.com. WE MAKE EVERY EFFORT POSSIBLE TO SEE THAT THE INFORMATION IN OUR CALENDAR OF EVENTS IS ACCURATE. HOWEVER, EVENTS SOMETIMES CHANGE WITHOUT PRIOR NOTICE. PLEASE CALL THE LISTED PHONE NUMBERS TO CONFIRM. TO INCLUDE YOUR EVENT IN THE CALENDAR, CALL (912) 238-1453, FAX (912) 234-7010 or E-MAIL SCENE@ SAVANNAH.COM. November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 41

SAVANNAH’S

HISTORIC CEMETERIES

o visit to Savannah is complete without a visit to the city’s historic cemeteries, each of which serves as a final resting place for many of Savannah’s most fascinating residents. Every one of these cemeteries is situated amid incredibly scenic surroundings. Even if cemeteries give you goosebumps, you’ll be glad you stopped by to experi-

ence some of Savannah’s unique history firsthand. Just don’t stay too long!

BONAVENTURE CEMETERY

Immortalized by John Berendt in his bestseller Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, Bonaventure is the final resting place for many of Savannah’s most prominent citizens, including songwriter Johnny Mercer (1909-1976), poet Conrad Aiken (18891973) and plantation owner Noble Jones (1701-1775), one of Savannah’s original settlers who colonized the city with General James Oglethorpe in 1733. Located along the scenic banks of the Wilmington River, Bonaventure Cemetery also features group burials for the American Legion Field, the Confederate States of America, the Order of Railroad Conductors and the veterans of the Spanish-American War. Bonaventure was originally a 600-acre plantation, which was sold for $5,000 in 1846 to Savannah businessman Peter Wiltberger, who turned the land into a public cemetery called Evergreen Cemetery. The City of Savannah purchased Evergreen Cemetery in 1907 and renamed it Bonaventure Cemetery. Savannah photographer Jack Leigh captured the image that graces the cover of

42 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

savannah.com

Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil — a burial statue, nicknamed The Bird Girl, that once stood in the heart of Bonaventure Cemetery. The statue is currently on display at the Telfair Museum of Art.

HOW TO GET THERE: Bonaventure is located just off Pennsylvania Ave. on Bonaventure Rd. HOURS: Open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

COLONIAL PARK CEMETERY

Colonial Park Cemetery is the city’s only nonactive cemetery, meaning that no more burials take place on this historic plot of land, located at the corner of Abercorn St. and Oglethorpe Ave. Walk through the graceful arch erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution, and you will discover a window into Savannah’s rich past. Many of Savannah’s earliest settlers are buried in Colonial Park, and their gravestones date back to the 1700s. Today, Colonial Park Cemetery serves as a park for many Savannah residents. Many Savannahians stroll through the cemetery in the early morning or walk their dogs within the cemetery’s wrought iron perimeter in the evening.

HOW TO GET THERE: The main entrance is located at the corner of Abercorn St. and Oglethorpe Ave. HOURS: Open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

LAUREL GROVE CEMETERY

Established in 1852, Laurel Grove Cemetery has thousands of graves that reflect Savannah’s rich history, situated amid groves of live oak, magnolia and dogwood trees. This contemplative site, which features ornate ironwork and magnificent statuary on many of the savannah.com

lots, was once called Springfield Plantation. Laurel Grove is divided into two distinct sections by a highway connector. Laurel Grove North, perhaps the better-known part of the cemetery, is the burial place of hundreds of Confederate soldiers, as well as prominent citizens like Juliette Gordon Low, the founder of the Girl Scouts, and Florence Martus, Savannah’s Waving Girl. Laurel Grove South serves as the final resting place for many members of Savannah’s African-American community. Many slaves, freedmen and even two African-American Confederate veterans are buried in Laurel Grove South. HOW TO GET THERE: Laurel Grove Cemetery is best accessed from Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. Turn right onto Anderson Street and the main gate will be straight ahead. HOURS: Open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 43

Savannah’s scenic jewels make this historic city remarkably beautiful and unforgettable.

SAVANNAH’S

Historic Squares

NORTH TO SOUTH: Franklin Square

Montgomery & St. Julian Sts. Dedicated in 1790, this square is named for Benjamin Franklin, an agent for the colony of Georgia from 1768 to 1778. Just off City Market, this is the northwesternmost square.

Ellis Square

Whitefield Square

Barnard & St. Julian Sts. Designed in 1733 and named in honor of Henry Ellis, the second Royal Governor, Ellis Square has recently been restored by the City of Savannah. Here the “Old City Market” was located and merchants sold crops and wares.

Johnson Square

Bull & St. Julian Sts. A center of activity, Johnson Square was the first square laid out by General James Oglethorpe in 1733. Savannah’s largest square is named for Robert Johnson, a close friend of Oglethorpe.

Reynolds Square

Abercorn & St. Julian Sts. Originally called Lower New Square, Reynolds Square was once home to the Filature, where silkworms were housed in an effort to create silk in the Georgia colony.

Chippewa Square

Bull & McDonough Sts. Named in honor of the American victory in the Battle of Chippewa during the War of 1812. Chippewa Square is where Forrest Gump’s bench was placed during the filming of the movie by the same name.

Warren Square

Habersham & St. Julian Sts. Located in one of the oldest areas of the city, Warren Square is named in honor of General Joseph Warren, a Revolutionary War hero, and was added in 1790.

Washington Square

Houston & St. Julian Sts. Built at the same time as Warren Square, Washington Square once bordered the original Trustees’ Garden,

44 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

where colonists grew a variety of experimental crops. Today it is the northeasternmost square in the city.

Liberty Square

Montgomery between State and York Sts. Liberty Square was laid out in 1799 and is named in honor of the Sons of Liberty and the victory over the British in the Revolutionary War. Only a portion of the square still exists. It is the site of the Flame of Freedom sculpture.

Telfair Square

Barnard & President Sts. Laid out by James Oglethorpe in 1733, it is one of the four original squares and was known as one of the more fashionable neighborhoods of the time. Renamed in 1883 to honor the Telfair family, it is the only square honoring a family rather than an individual. It also contains a tribute to the Girl Scouts.

Wright Square

Bull & President Sts. Originally called Percival Square, Wright Square is also the final resting place for Tomochichi, the Native American leader who helped General James Oglethorpe found the colony of Georgia.

Oglethorpe Square

Abercorn & President Sts. This square pays homage to General James Oglethorpe, founder of Savannah and the colony of Georgia, and is a perfect place to enjoy a picnic or a shady break.

Columbia Square

Habersham & President Sts. Taking its name from a popular nickname for the American colonies — Columbia — this square is a tranquil spot away from the hustle and bustle of savannah.com

downtown. Nestled within the northeast quadrant of the Historic District, it is a favorite stop for Savannahians.

Greene Square

Houston & President Sts. Named after General Nathaniel Greene, a general in the Continental Army and an aide to General George Washington during the Revolutionary War, Greene Square is one of the most beautiful squares in Savannah.

Orleans Square

Barnard & McDonough Sts. Located near the Savannah Civic Center, Orleans Square commemorates General Andrew Jackson’s 1815 victory in the Battle of New Orleans, part of the War of 1812. This square features beautiful red tulips in the spring and a bubbling fountain all year long.

Crawford Square

Houston & McDonough Sts. Designed in the year 1841 and named in honor of William Harris Crawford, Crawford Square contains part of a nineteenth-century water cistern and features a gazebo. It also offers the city's first paved basketball court for residents.

Pulaski Square

Barnard & Macon Sts. Pulaski Square is named for Polish Count Casimir Pulaski, a hero of the Revolutionary War, and is one of the few squares without a monument. This square features some of the most beautiful live oaks in the city, as well as thick ivy groundcover.

Madison Square

Bull & Macon Sts. Named for the fourth U.S. President James Madison, this square features vintage cannons from the old Savannah Armory and a bronze monument of Sergeant William Jasper. The Savannah College of Art and savannah.com

Design originally opened in 1979 on this square.

Lafayette Square

Abercorn & Macon Sts. Named for French aristocrat and military officer Marquis de Lafayette, this square is home to the ornate Cathedral of St. John the Baptist and features quaint benches and cobblestone sidewalks.

Troup Square

Habersham & Macon Sts. Troup Square features an armillary, an astronomical centerpiece made of iron, that is supported by small metal turtles. Named in honor of Georgia Governor George Michael Troup, this is one of the most picturesque squares in the Historic District.

Reynolds Square

Chatham Square

Barnard & Wayne Sts. This square is home to Gordon Row, a block of 15 identical townhouses admired for their ironwork and unique doorways. Chatham Square is named in honor of the Earl of Chatham, an early supporter of the colony.

Calhoun Square

Abercorn & Wayne Sts. This square, laid out in 1851, was named in honor of John C. Calhoun, a senator from South Carolina, who served as Vice President under John Quincy Adams and Andrew Jackson. It offers some of the best views of the Wesley Monumental United Methodist Church and the Massie School.

Whitefield Square

Habersham & Wayne Sts. A popular place for weddings, Whitefield Square has a lovely white gazebo that has hosted countless wedding ceremonies. The square is named for George Whitefield, an English clergyman who founded the Bethesda Orphan Home and served as a minister to the city’s earliest colonists.

Monterey Square

Bull & Wayne Sts. With a statue of Casimir Pulaski at the center, Monterey Square is widely considered Savannah’s most picturesque square. The Mercer House, the setting for the murder in Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, is located on this lovely square.

November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 45

Savannah’s Irish Connection

by Dani Ray

n the mid 1800s, Savannah was a beacon to Irish settlers eeing harsh conditions for land and work in the ew orld. The first of them arrived in Savannah in 1734 and many thousands more emigrated in the coming years, helping to build the canals and the ever-e panding railroads. In 1992, Jeanne and Jimmy Zittrauer established Saints & Shamrocks to serve the city’s Irish Catholic community and celebrate its Irish heritage. Seventeen years later, longtime friends ope and Joseph Ebberwein took over the shop. And while Saints & Shamrocks is still the go-to for religious gifts, bibles and imported Irish jewelry, the collection here is more varied than one might e pect. I’ve had to give myself permission to stretch into new areas that will have meaning to a larger population of customers, says ope. or instance, books are one of my love languages, and two of my coworkers are former teachers with an excellent eye for really special stories, so we have a darling children’s section. he also carries avannah-themed gifts, artwork and books by local artists, Lowcountry-themed candles and custom T-shirts and prayer candles that ope designs herself e’re tasteful and fun with a pinch of outhern humor, she says smiling. This is a place you can come with your children, your best friend, your parents or grandparents. In ebruary, this wee Irish shop will celebrate 30 years down-

town ou don’t thrive this long without local support, and we are so grateful to our customers, ope adds. In the last ten or so years, patrons have often commented that aints hamrocks lends itself to wandering. nd yet, not all who wander in know e actly what they’re seeking. ver time, the shop has grown into an accidental ministry, a safe space where people can share whatever they’re feeling. hether customers come in because of a joyous or a difficult time in their lives or the life of someone they love, it’s an honor to be here for them, ope says. on’t believe what you see on the news about society because I work in retail, and people are good he smiles again. Truly. nd what of all the green, the shamrocks and the tricky leprechauns? Let’s put it this way: not unlike the elusive gold at the end of a rainbow, the delightfully curated merald Isle-inspired merchandise isn’t the real heart of aints hamrocks. It’s ope. Saints & Shamrocks 309 Bull Street (912) 233-8858 www.saintsandshamrocks.com

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savannah.com

SHOPPING CLOTHING/ACCESSORIES

Twinkle

(912) 234-1001 www.facebook.com/twinkletimecitymarket 33 Jefferson St., B-3 on map. In their new location across the street from the trolley stops in City Market, Twinkle offers the best in trendy, fun fashion accessories! You’ll be able to find special gifts for your family and friends. After you visit this unique store, you will never forget it! Mon.-Wed., 9:30 a.m.8 p.m.; Thurs.-Sat., 9:30 a.m.-9 p.m. and Sun., 10 a.m.-7 p.m. See ad page 51.

Washed Ashore

(912) 234-6100 23 E. River St., A-6 on map. Beachwear, casual shoes and sportswear for guys and gals, including Toms Shoes, Sperry Top-Sider, Santiki Sportswear and Reef sandals. See ad page 51.

GIFTS & COLLECTIBLES

Atelier Galerie

(912) 233-3140 www.agsavannah.com 150 Abercorn St. (at Oglethorpe Ave.), D-6 on map. Showcasing locally handcrafted jewelry made right in the shop, as well as a unique collection from regional and national jewelry artisans. Suitable for all types of collectors, each handcrafted piece of jewelry tells its own story. Locally owned, Atelier Galerie has specialized in sterling, gemstone and ontrend jewelry for over 20 years. You’ll find the finest selection of locally made Savannah charms, jewelry, ornaments and paintings — a collection you won’t find anywhere else. All are reasonably priced for gifts or for yourself. Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. and Sun., 11 a.m.-4 p.m. See ad page 23.

Gallery 80 on Tybee & Framing

(912) 675-7457 www.gallery80ontybee.com 1207 F Highway 80 East, Tybee Island, M-17 on map. One of the newest art galleries on Tybee Island, Gallery 80 on Tybee & Framing offers a very eclectic mix of art. This includes two different and talented jewelers, in addition to original paintings done in watercolors, acrylics and mixed media, plus wood artistry, gourd art, handmade pottery and textile art. Come see us, as we strive to have something for everyone! Open Mon., Wed.-Sat., 11 a.m.- 5 p.m. and Sun., 12-3 p.m. See ad page 20. savannah.com

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SAVANNAH’S ARCHITECTURAL STYLES Savannah has long been a melting pot of architectural gems. The historic city was the ideal playground for architects to test out different designs from various influences. The result is a perfectly preserved Historic District with iconic samples of the best of the best in architecture.

FEDERAL

details on pinnacles, chimneys and large

The Federal style is depicted by prominent

churches of the period. Savannah example:

square or rectangular exteriors with slender,

welcoming entry hallways. Often used on Temple Mickve Israel

curved iron stair railings and Palladian or Venetian windows. Savannah example: The Davenport House

GEORGIAN The Georgian style is depicted by symmetrical square facades with hipped roofs. Chimneys are built on the ends and quoins often adorn the corners. Savannah example: The Olde Pink House Restaurant

GREEK REVIVAL The Greek Revival style is depicted by gabled porticos or temple facades of one or two stories with columns of the Greek Doric or Iconic orders. Construction is post and beam, and roofs are designed with slopes and may be disguised behind heavy cornices and parapets. Savannah example: First Baptist Church

GOTHIC REVIVAL The Gothic Revival style is depicted by crafted 48 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

savannah.com

SHOPPING Pelindaba Lavender

(912) 544-5111 www.pelindabalavender.com/savannah 112 E. Broughton St., C-7 on map. Pelindaba Lavender is a premier grower of certified organic lavender plants, distiller of lavender essential oils and handcrafter of lavender products. Explore the therapeutic properties of 100% pure oil across our wide range of all-natural lavender in personal, therapeutic, pet and home-care products. Further your culinary adventures amidst our abundant and delectable collection of lavender culinary delights, and find the perfect, elegantly packaged gift or décor item for your home, all cultivated and handcrafted at the beautiful farm on San Juan Island, WA. Indulge your senses for The Complete Lavender Experience at this unique retail event located in historic downtown Savannah. Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sun., 11 a.m.4 p.m.

Saints & Shamrocks

(912) 233-8858 www.saintsandshamrocks.com 309 Bull St., F-5 on map. Located across from The DeSoto Hotel, the goal of Saints & Shamrocks is to continue the tradition of providing quality Irish imports and religious gifts to the Savannah community and to the many wonderful visitors from all areas of the country and the world. Saints & Shamrocks believes in providing their customers with just the right gift for any occasion or need. Open Mon.-Sat., 9:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. See ad page 47.

GOURMET FOOD/GIFTS

Matter of Factors

(912) 231-2100 www.shopsonbay.com/pages/ matteroffactors 120 E. Bay St. (Abercorn Ramp to River St., next to River Street Inn). A-6 on map. There’s a little something for everyone at this shop that specializes in local wines, wine accessories, local artwork and unique gift items, which include wax fragrance bowls, Poo-Pourri and greeting cards. Free wine tastings available. Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-6 p.m. See ad page 47.

JEWELRY

Savannah Jewelry Gallery

(912) 777-2223 307 W. St. Bryan St., B-3 on map. Formerly known as Golden Realm in City Market, savannah.com

November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 49

ITALIANATE

by arch and dome construction, Corinthian

The Italianate style was inspired by the

Savannah example: The Cotton Exchange

column capitols and roof balustrades.

farmhouses of Northern Italy and is depicted by low gabled roofs, with wide overhanging eaves supported by decorative brackets, and entrance towers and roundhead windows with hood moldings. Most examples also feature cast-iron fronts and detailed entrances. Savannah example: Mercer House

SECOND FRENCH EMPIRE The Second French Empire style emphasizes picturesque, vertical accents on building tops, like chimneys and corner pinnacles. Also

REGENCY

featured are turrets and domes reminiscent

The Regency style is depicted by triangular

seventeenth century. Savannah example:

pediments, semicircular stairs, articulated

of French Renaissance architecture in the Hamilton-Turner House

window openings, ionic columns and classical alcove entrance ways. Savannah example: Telfair Museum of Art

ROMANESQUE REVIVAL The Romanesque Revival style is depicted 50 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

For more interesting articles about Savannah, go to Savannah.com and check out recent articles.

savannah.com

SHOPPING Savannah Jewelry Gallery is now representing local jewelry artists. Displayed are pieces ranging from traditional engagement rings to contemporary alumni work from SCAD. At SJG, we work closely with our clients to provide one-of-a-kind custom jewelry for that special day. If a ring catches your eye, we also offer same-day ring resizing. Additionally, we offer in-house custom-cut gemstone services for those searching for a unique look. If you’re coming to Savannah for a weekend, SJG is a must-see jewelry gallery! Open daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. See ad page 22.

REAL ESTATE

Ron Melander and Jordan Gray Savannah Historic Properties Keller Williams Realty Coastal Area Partners

(912) 441-7124 or (912) 233-1575 www.savannahhistoricproperties.com 124 Habersham St., D-8 on map. Ron Melander and Jordan Gray specialize in listing and selling real estate in Savannah and Chatham County. Learn more by emailing them at info@savannahhistoricproperties or visit the website. savannah.com

VACATION RENTALS

Destination Vacation Hilton Head

(843) 758-7774 or (877) 874-7244 www.dvhhi.com 7 Executive Park Rd. off Pope Ave., Hilton Head Island, SC. Our experienced team will help you find the perfect rental home or villa for your next Hilton Head vacation. We specialize in luxury oceanfront and beach-oriented rental homes and villas with 2 to 7 bedrooms in the resort areas of Sea Pines, Forest Beach and Palmetto Dunes. Call for a vacation guide or visit us online to preview our array of properties. See ad page 53.

WEB

Savannah.com

(912) 238-1453 www.savannah.com A true pedestrian-friendly city with hundreds of years of history, within footsteps of fabulous hotels, bed and breakfasts and vacation rentals. Explore the city on your own, or select from the many tours that will leave you with a fond and lasting memory. This popular website is a guide to the Hostess City of the South, and features a detailed calendar, area maps and deals/discounts. See ad page 2. November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 51

SCENE PUZZLE

ACROSS CLUES

1. Cake or deviled. 5. Summer Lowcountry fruit made into preserves. 8. Steering gear of a ship. 12. Boo Y’All Comedy Ghost Tour – See the dark ____ of Savannah with a twist of humor. 13. Tour Pass Savannah – Choose a ____, two or three day pass. 14. Twinkle – You’ll be ____ to find special gifts for family and friends. 15. Atelier Galerie – Each handcrafted piece of jewelry tells ____ own story. 16. Yoko ____. 17. Andrew Low House – This is one home you will ____ want to miss. 18. Small boy. 20. Put this with blue and white. 22. Grave Encounters Ghost Tours – Reservations ____ suggested. 25. Captain Derek’s Dolphin Adventure Tour – The cruise ____ 1 to 1 ½ hours long. 26. Cocktail Classes In Congress Street Up – ____ to American Prohibition Museum for tickets. 27. Note in the scale. 29. Savannah Riverboat Cruise – Ask about our ____ Saver Tour and Attraction Combos. 31. Coastal Heritage Society operates ____ Point Heritage Museum and 5 other museums. 32. Hilton Head Speedboat Tours – ____ for the whole family. 33. Island Skiff Adventure Tours – ____ up close and personal with wildlife and nature. 34. Ocean. 35. Samantha Claar “Painting the Gullah Stories” – Her work ____ also be found at Gallery 80 on Tybee. 36. Compass Reading. 37. Revolutionary or Civil. 38. Symbol for element iron. 39. Signature Gallery is a ____operative gallery of local artists with fine local art. 41. Old Town Trolley Tours – ____ more than 100 attractions on this tour of Savannah. 43. Online: Abbr. 44. Symbol for element hafnium. 45. American Prohibition Museum is open daily from 10 __ __. 47. Symbol for element ytterbium. 48. Glucose unit: Abbr. 49. Savannah Jewelry Gallery – ____ offer in-house custom-cut gemstone services. 51. One feature of Tybee Island. 53. The Gallery of Art – Recently established by ten local ____. 57. Thus. 58. ____ Salaam Deli with Middle Eastern Cuisine.

by Jo Emery

59. Lisa Rosenmeier Art Studio – Lisa creates ____ paint the color of life. 60. Tybee Island Light Museum & Tybee Museum – Last ticket sold ____ 4:30 p.m. 61. Tactical Warning: Abbr. 62. Saints & Shamrocks – Let ____ share with you our excellent customer service. 63. Owens Thomas House – ____ transported back to the 19th century. 64. Jepson Center – Admire original works of art ____ contemporary masters.

DOWN CLUES

1. Calhoun Square: Abbr. 2. Relative Importance Index: Initials. 3. Average daily traffic: Abbr. 4. Six Pence Pub was named by Condé Nast Traveler one of the ____ bars in Savannah. 5. Fruits, vegetables and grains. 6. 17Hundred90 ____ & Restaurant – A tradition in Savannah for over a century. 7. Massie Heritage Center is the oldest school in continuous operation in ____. 8. Gallery 80 on Tybee & Framing with original paintings and ____made pottery. 9. A wildlife refuge in Cameroon. 10. Luminox Light Technology: Abbr. 11. Pronoun. 19. We enjoy this kind of conditioning in Savannah. 21. An eternity. 1

12 15

1 22

18 23

8 14

17 20

26 31

35 38

37 41

Puzzle Answers on Page 38.

22. Simultaneously. 23. Floor coverings. 24. Fencing swords. 27. Goose Feathers Cafe serving breakfast and ____ until 2:30 p.m. 28. Telfair Museums offer ____ incomparable visitor experience. 30. Latin in. 31. In keeping with. 32. Note on the scale. 34. Seaman apprentice: Abbr. 35. Symbol for element cerium. 37. Entanglement. 38. The Sunshine State: Abbr. 40. Railey Cooley Art with very well received studies on The King ____ The Jungle. 42. Southern favorite, country ham with red ____ gravy. 43. Destination Vacation Hilton Head – Visit us online to preview ____ array of properties. 45. Atelier Galerie – See ____ for money saving offer. 46. Savannah Theatre – A ____see while visiting Savannah. 48. Washed Ashore with beach and casual wear for guys and ____. 49. Matter of Factors – Free ____ tastings available. 50. Symbol for element einsteinium. 52. My City Savannah Tour – Book your tour ____. 54. Tebibyte: Abbr. 55. Bill; check. 56. Pig’s home. 58. Symbol for element gold.

52 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

savannah.com

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Discover the Difference. Raising the bar in customer service Proud to offer the largest selection of luxury oceanfront and oceanside vacation rentals on Hilton Head Island

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SavannahSOUVENIRS ant to bring a “piece” of Savannah home? Here are some items from not-to-be-missed galleries, shops and boutiques that will keep your memory of the Hostess City alive.

WASHED ASHORE 23 E. River St. (912) 234-6100

MATTER OF FACTORS

120 E. Bay St. (912) 231-2100 shopsonbay.com/pages/ matteroffactors

SAINTS TS & SHAMR SHAMROCKS

309 Bull St. (912) 233-8858 saintsandshamrocks.com

STEPHEN KASUN’S STUDIO AND ART GALLERY

306 W. Congress St. City Market (407) 474-0411 kasunstudio.com

ATELIER GALERIE THE SAVANNAH GALLERY OF ART

304 E. Bryan St. (912) 358-0287 savannahgalleryofart.com

150 Abercorn St. (912) 233-3140 agsavannah.com

SAMANTHA CLAAR’S GULLAH LIVING

GCD Home Furnishings & Décor 409 E. York St. (404) 966-3647 or (912) 417-4142

GALLERY 80 ON TYBEE G AND FRAMING

1207 Highway 80 East Suite F. (912) 675-7457 gallery80ontybee.com

KATHRYN RIECHERT

LISA ROSENMEIER’S ART STUDIO

303 W. St. Julian St. City Market (912) 233-3082 facebook.com/ signaturesavannah

308 W. St. Julian St. Upper Level Studio FNU-104 City Market (912) 247-8922 lisarosenmeier.com

SAVANNAH JEWELRY GALLERY

307 W. Bryan St. City Market (912) 777-2223 instagram.com/ savannahjewelrygallery

RAILEY COOLEY ART

Second Floor Studio FSU-2 309 W. St. Julian St. City Market (540) 905-5021 raileycooley.com

TWINKLE

33 Jefferson St. (912) 234-1001 facebook.com/ twinkletimecitymarket

HOROSCOPE ARIES

A recent shift in family dynamics has the potential to cause a lot of tension, but it doesn’t have to, and the way you handle the situation can be a model for others. This month, step up and take the high road.

TAURUS Plotting out your next steps can bring peace of mind when little else can. A warning: be sure to build in some wiggle room. This month, you may experience setbacks that cost time and money. A little padding in your schedule will go a long way toward lessening the blow! GEMINI

When you’re ruled by the planet of communication (Mercury), you’re bound to get into the semantic and linguistic weeds on occasion. Just remember: not everyone finds fascination in it. In need of a protracted, verbose discussion? Track down a Libra!

CANCER It’s time to shake things up, Cancer. Managing everything has been your way of coping but you’re exhausted. This month, spend a day with your fingers out of all the pies around you and don’t interfere unless it’s absolutely necessary. At the end of the day, take stock of how everything went. LEO Your progress in the project department is something to behold. Just six months ago, you couldn’t have guessed where you would be now. Take some time this month to remember where you started and how you got here. You’ve made a lot happen and you should be proud! VIRGO

According to scientists, gratitude is a key piece of the happiness puzzle. This month, think back to a time when you needed help and someone was really there for you. Even if it’s been a while, some token of your appreciation will mean a lot to both of you. 56 Savannah Scene November-December 2021

NOVEMBER 2021 LIBRA Things may be feeling increasingly out of your control, lately. What can you really do about it? You can control how you react, and that’s it. Give it a shot and see what ensues. SCORPIO

When was the last time someone really listened to what you were saying? Do you remember how amazing it felt just to be heard? You will be called upon to do that for someone else this month. Do your best to be a supportive sounding board and nothing more!

SAGITTARIUS

You may have gotten some good advice recently that you didn’t take. Now with hindsight (and therefore 20/20), ask yourself: is it too late to consider the wisdom of the words you were offered? If so, how might they change your path going forward?

CAPRICORN

Where is your head lately, Capricorn? Revisiting the past is okay but dwelling there is a psychological burden you don’t need. If you can’t escape it, set aside a time to really immerse yourself in this season you can’t let go of; it might just give you the relief you seek.

AQUARIUS

You’ve been haunted by the following question: to go or not to go? To make this decision, you’re going to have to shed all outside expectations and just do what you feel is right.

PISCES You may be feeling super sick of your wardrobe. Have you considered sprucing it up by hitting a thrift store or two? Just because a piece no longer works for someone else doesn’t mean it can’t work wonders for you. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure! savannah.com

HOROSCOPE ARIES

Have you taken stock lately of your strengths and weaknesses? They’ve changed a lot since you were having to list them during job interviews. If you haven’t given them much thought since then, it’s time. You may be surprised by how this exercise alters your thinking!

TAURUS You’ve got just enough time before your next birthday to think hard about what you want. Ask yourself: what could really make my life better? Then, tell your friends and family. GEMINI

Having an inner circle is a gift, but it comes with its own challenges. When you choose confidants and close allies, you also take on some of their problems and perspectives. Be patient with your circle of friends, and remember to reserve a little grace for yourself.

CANCER Human communication has always been fraught, but with so many platforms to choose from, it’s become a minefield. To respond or not? How long to wait? These questions consume us. This month, forget it all and be direct, open, and honest. A heavy weight will lift. LEO You’ve been in a near constant rush lately, and it’s affecting your productivity, the quality of your output and your relationships. Don’t give in to it! Seek stillness this month, and pad your schedule for a less hurried day. Finding calm is a gift that keeps on giving. VIRGO

Are you being honest with yourself and those closest to you? If not, you may want to reconsider. Hiding things from the people you love takes a terrible mental and physical toll. savannah.com

DECEMBER 2021 LIBRA Where do you put the majority of your energy, Libra? Does it coincide with what’s most important to you? This month is the perfect time to look at your priorities, and how they line up with the ways you spend your days. An effective realignment could do wonders! SCORPIO

You recently got some not-so-great news. If you need to wallow, do so and do it right. Seriously, take a dedicated chunk of time and just go for it. This will be more effective than allowing a black cloud to shadow you for a week, a month, or more.

SAGITTARIUS

Your love life has taken a hit. The good news: you will see positive long-term results in this department if you put in the work to be the best version of yourself every day.

CAPRICORN

Smile, Capricorn! You’re due for some fun at the end of the month. Lean into it, chase away your worries for a bit and come back to the world restored and ready to rock.

AQUARIUS

You may be doing the “one step forward, two steps back” dance as you work your way down a path of growth. This is normal, so don’t be discouraged. Keep going and you will come to a new level of understanding.

PISCES You are feeling beat these days, and you’re not alone. The world feels increasingly chaotic and you may feel powerless against it. But you can take care of yourself by eating well, shutting down stress, and finding an outlet or cultivating a passion. Start today! November-December 2021 Savannah Scene 57

DOT Forsythe Loop

DOT Express Shuttle DOT Savannah Belles Ferry

Downtown Historic Savannah

Ferry to/from Hutchinson Island