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A U S T R A L I A & T H E S O U T H P A C I F I C
"IT'S FREE TO ENJOY AHOY!"
MARCH 2023
s.v Breeze D & K Wyatt Moody 64
SOUTHERN QUEENSLAND CRUISING YACHT HAVEN Located ON Brisbane's Moreton Bay, Scarborough Marina provides visiting yachts with easy access to the many anchorages and the islands of Moreton Bay, including Moreton Island and the Tangalooma Wrecks. The City of Brisbane and the Brisbane international airport are only 40mins away, with Public Transport right at our door. The suburb of Scarborough is home to families and retirees who form part of the safe & friendly community. With the convenience of waterfront Cafes, Clubs & Restaurants plus major shopping centres and medical services nearby and our popular weekend farmers & craft markets, Scarborough really is a home away from home!
Recognised by the international cruising community as the preferred destination when visiting the Brisbane Region. Safe Enclosed Harbour Protected from swell & unaffected by flooding. Clean, Modern & Well Maintained Facilities Modern Cruisers Lounge with TV and free WIFI Electronic gated Access, with 24 Hour CCTV Monitoring 24 Hour Fuel Wharf Full-Service Boatyard with 35 Tonne Travelift On-Site Chandlery
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Tangalooma Anchorage Moreton Island
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SCARBMARINA.COM.AU info@scarbmarina.com.au
IN THE MARCH AHOY Holed Up In Hobart
5
Code Flag Competition Winner
11
Gathering On The Bay
13
Niue Yacht Club -SOS
20
Meet The Fleet 23 Go East Rally
25
Cruise In Company 2023
32
Cruising The Kimberley - Mitchell River
36
Introducing The Iridium GO! exec
51
Anchoring Around Coral
56
What Type Of Sailor Are You?
61
Healthy Cruising Part 2
71
Members Marketplace
84
Published by Down Under Rally Pty Ltd To submit an article or to enquire about advertising, contact John Hembrow Email: admin@downunderrally.com
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A U S T R A L I A & T H E S O U T H P A C I F I C
©Copyright 2023 Down Under Rally Pty Ltd AHOY Sailing News is published and distributed electronically via the world wide web. Original editorial content & advertisements in this newsletter are copyrighted and the exclusive property of Down Under Rally Pty Ltd. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without the written permission of the Down Under Rally Pty Ltd. The comments and views in this newsletter are not necessarily those of the Down Under Rally Pty Ltd.
Members Prize Draw Congratulations... Scott B - Member Number 217. You are this month's winner of the PredictWind Down Under Rally Members Prize Draw Each month the Down Under Rally draws the name of one of our members as the winner of the member's prize draw. The winner chooses any item from the woman's or men's range of PredictWind Clothing plus a PredictWind Cap. predictwind.com/clothing-shop
BECOME A MEMBER FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN downunderrally.com/membership
HOLED UP
IN HOBART By Peter Smith
HOLED UP in Hobart
By Peter Smith
Kiwi Roa left the Azores in the mid-Atlantic after an extended stay, destination vaguely set in the Pacific – likely home to New Zealand, some 14,000 miles away. I was single-handing and had wrapped up many years of expedition-making in the north, including a lifelong goal of a Northwest Passage transit. Government lockdowns and clampdowns on freedom of movement worldwide had become persistently disruptive to international sailors like myself, although I did make brief stops at the Cape Verdes, then forced ones from Tristan da Cunha to Cape Town – bureaucracy successfully navigated with the welcome aid of local assistants – for essential sail repairs and the addition of external cabin-top safety rails, before launching into the Indian Ocean. In the event, I was to end up in Hobart, which shaves a few miles off. Well before then, however, about halfway between the Cape and Australia are the French Kerguelan Islands. Normally a visit would not be permitted, but fate intervened as both a 20-year-old aft lower shroud and its mating top fork terminal decided their expiry date was up.
On approach Kerguelen Island Shoreside excursions were forbidden, but the French commandant offered their boatman to help me climb the mast. I used Sta-Lok reusable fittings and two 25 mm shackles to effect a jury rig which I hoped would last the remaining 5000 miles and 6 weeks at sea.
Kerguelen -Storm Riding
I made an urgent departure from a Kerguelen leeshore trap, with a storm-force gale bearing down, pushing me into the southern Indian Ocean, blown out to open sea looking for safety under triple reefed main – only then to experience two uncontrolled gybes as the storm seas running offshore in the open water overcame the autopilot and my vain attempts at getting things under control. My mistake was not to drive Kiwi Roa into the cradling safety of the heavy kelp beds under the lee of Kerguelen, where perhaps I could have waited out the storm in relative safety.
HOLED UP in Hobart
By Peter Smith
Cape Town to New Zealand is close to 7,000 nautical miles depending on how far south one is willing to venture. As the blow passed over, I laid a course for Heard Island at 54 degrees south, 400 miles away just off the Antarctica ice shelf. Very few people get to see this remote Australian active volcano, so a drive-by was irresistible. However, it is in the deep Southern Ocean, the gales never let up, and as the island morphed into a dark evil shape in the spray-driven fog, I considered it too dangerous to get any closer and gybed out onto a safe course back to sea and toward the underside of Australia, thankful to be gaining sea-room and safety again.
Heard Island - 54 degrees south Sailing in the Southern Ocean consists of riding the depressions as they march east, while trying to avoid the worst sectors of the accompanying fronts, if possible. Gybing on the wind shift as the fronts charge through is nerve-wracking and tiring, as long periods can be spent watching and waiting for the change, which is sometimes a slow switch over hours or a sudden and violent change taking seconds. I was now ultra-cautious and awake so as to control the gybe and reduce shock on the rig as the mast appeared to be moving a lot in its lower sections. I could see the tension in the starboard aft lower I had repaired was alternating a lot, coinciding with a lot of noise as the mast worked in the step. On deck, it all looked alright and I could see no reason for the on-off tensions in the lower shrouds, but down below the noise was disconcerting. Kiwi Roa’s mast is a very strong aluminium section so I was sure I would have plenty of warning if things got any worse. I made sure the mast runners were always deployed and tensioned up, and sailed under triple-reefed main, only resorting to a small headsail if the wind went forward of the beam. With the safety of the rig now a priority my best and closest option for a landfall was Hobart as the winds should stay aft of the beam. Australia still had severe Covid travel restrictions in place and it was impossible while at sea to navigate the layers of State and Federal procedures to apply for exemptions. With the help of Australian sailor Mike Sargent and my son Craig, not to mention an eventually sympathetic Tasmanian government, the boat was granted entry under safe harbour provisions.
HOLED UP in Hobart
By Peter Smith
On safe landfall and efficient Australian Border Force personnel granting clearance, the stress slipped away, and I could reflect once more on a successful voyage. I found Prince of Wales Bay Marina, north of Hobart central, the ideal marina to rest and repair. This marina is close to Hobart’s industrial area, and most things are available or can be ordered in from the mainland. A rig inspection found the starboard lower and forward baby stay shrouds were broken. The lower had actually broken in the same way as the port shroud repaired in Kerguelan, and the baby stay had eight broken wires in the 12 mm 1x19 matrix. I suspect this damage was due to the boom slamming into the shrouds in the uncontrolled gybes when running out of Kerguelen.
Since my arrival the Australian Covid rules for foreign entrants were finally relaxed, and while I’m here a circumnavigation of Australia is looking enticing. ABOUT THE AUTHOR, PETER SMITH
Peter Smith is a New Zealand boat builder, long-distance cruiser and offshore sailor, and designer of the Rocna anchor range. He lives and sails on his custom-designed self-built yacht, Kiwi Roa. The result of Peter’s lifelong experience both racing and long-distance cruising, she’s a 15.5 m (52′) sloop built from aluminium plate, displaces 27 tonnes, built to go anywhere and handle the worst conditions. Peter’s recent voyaging includes years exploring Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, Antarctica, South Georgia, and the northern Artic fringes of Svalbard, Iceland, and Greenland, culminating in the Northwest Passage eastward from Alaska. He finds himself now in Hobart by accident. Professionally Peter was a boat builder, co-founding and developing Cavalier Yachts, one of New Zealand’s most prestigious yacht building companies and the largest in the southern hemisphere at the time. In the 2000’s Peter resorted to developing his own anchor design, unhappy with every option available, which was subsequently produced as the Rocna Anchors range, available worldwide. More about Peter is to be found at his website: www.petersmith.net.nz
“Your anchor should provide you and your crew with reliability, security, and confidence,” Peter Smith
www.downunderrally.com/anchors-chain-winches
REMEMBER GOOD OLD-FASHIONED SERVICE? That is what you will find at our chandlery, Australian Boating Supplies. Dave and Helen brought Australian Boating Supplies (ABS) about 15 years ago when it was located at the front of Gold Coast City Marina, part of the Gold Coast Marine Precinct. Since then they expanded to shed F31, and again into shed C17 which is right next to the boom gates and has substantially increased the range of boating and marine products. Having raised their family in Canberra, they moved to Queensland, purchased the chandlery and Tropical Sunset a Seawind 1160 and boating became a large part of the family's lives. For many years Dave, Helen, Danielle, Michael and Emma holidayed and sailed between the Gold Coast and far north Queensland on Tropical Sunset. During this time they tried and tested many of the products currently stocked in the shop and can provide advice and knowledge based on their own experience.
The Hutcheson family and the staff at ABS have extensive boating experience and really do enjoy helping you with your chandlery needs. We look forward to welcoming you IN-STORE Monday to Friday 8 AM – 4:30 PM Saturday 8:30 AM -12:00 PM, OR by phone or online when it suits you
PHONE: 07 5502 8484 AUSTBOATING.COM.AU
C17 Gold Coast City Marina, 76-84 Waterway Drive, Coomera Qld. 4209
DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS RECEIVE GENUINE DISCOUNTS OFF ALL ITEMS IN-STORE, EXCLUDING ITEMS ALREADY ON SALE AND AS SUCH ALREADY DISCOUNTED.
AND THE WINNER IS .... A big THANK YOU to all everyone who entered the AHOY Sailing / Bato Flags Code Flag Competition and correctly deciphered the code flag's spelling... AUSTRALIAN BOATING SUPPLIES
THE WINNER OF THE AHOY SAILING / BATO FLAGS CODE FLAG COMPETITION IS... FRANK B (s.v Time Out) Congratulations Frank. Bato Flags will be in touch with information about how to redeem the prize of a String Of Code Flags that spell your vessels name. Thanks again to you who entered & remember Bato Flags manufacture Long Lasting QUALITY flags. Please visit www.batoflags.com and check out our range of burgees, bunting, courtesy & nation flags & ensigns. Bato Flags provide discounts for Down Under Rally Members.
Thanks to everyone who joined our Sailing To Indonesia Webinar last month.
MISSED THE WEBINAR? VIEW THE RECORDING AT: downunderrally.com/sailing-to-indonesia
https://peakmarine.com.au
join us for the 2023
WWSA GATHERING ON THE BAY NELSON BAY BOWLING AND RECREATION CLUB, NELSON BAY, PORT STEPHENS. MARCH 31ST TO APRIL 2ND 2023
First held in Nelson Bay in 2016, the annual Women Who Sail Australia (WWSA) Gathering on the Bay is a conference and get-together for women interested in boats. The Gathering On The Bay (GOT) provides the opportunity for women from around the country (and even NZ and the US) to catch up with cruising buddies and make new friends while learning skills and sharing knowledge in a supportive women-only forum. The Gathering on the Bay comprises three days of presentations and social events, bookended by additional 'on the water' events for those who arrive early and/or stay on an extra day. The pandemic saw a hiatus after the 2019 event; however, the Gathering is back for 2023.
KEY SPEAKERS FOR THIS YEAR’S EVENT INCLUDE... Record-breaking solo sailor Lisa Blair who has circumnavigated Antarctica (twice!) and Australia non-stop and unassisted
LISA BLAIR
The first all-women crew in the two-handed division of the Rolex Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race, ‘2Birds2Hobart’ Kathy Veel and Bridget Canham.
BRIDGET KATHY
CANHAM
VEEL Image Credit ABC News Article.
RYA instructor and experienced skipper Annette Hesselmans, who skippered her yacht Fika in the 2022 Melbourne to Hobart ‘Westcoaster’ race and completed the Melbourne to Osaka two-handed race .
ANNETTE HESSELMANS
Annette will also kick off the 2023 GOT with a day of sail training aboard SV Fika on Thursday, March 30th which will be followed by our ‘pre-event’ dinner at the Nelson Bay Bowling Club bistro – a casual meal and drinks (men invited too!). The Gathering officially begins on Friday with Mel Yeomans discussing ropes and deck fittings (and their maintenance) Annette Hesselmans will reflect on her experiences, anecdotes, and observations as a female sailor, exploring the opportunities to empower women to set sail confidently. Master V skipper and MED2 mechanic Lily Barlow will present an introduction to marine diesel mechanics. While this 2-hour session is theory only, a lot of ground is covered, and you can expect to know how to identify parts of your engine, and attendees will be well on the way to the practical side of doing their next service themselves.
A long-time supporter of WWSA’s Gatherings, this year Lisa Blair will present two sessions over the weekend. On Saturday, she will discuss moving on from her 2017 dismasting and 2022 Antarctic circumnavigation, which was not just about breaking records. With a strong environmental ethic, Lisa utilised this opportunity to complete citizen science while sailing between the latitudes of 45 south and 60 south (the official ‘race’ track). Given the remoteness and lack of shipping in the Southern Ocean, there is very little scientific data on ocean health from this far south. Vessels transiting these waters are rare, so partnering with the Clean Ocean Foundation and scientific agencies and organisations, Lisa undertook scientific research while circumnavigating Antarctica. Lisa will explain how she collected ocean readings (such as salinity, dissolved carbon dioxide, chlorophyll and bio-optics), microplastic samples and meteorological data (barometric data, temperature, wind/direction, air pressure, humidity) to assist with global weather modelling. Lisa’s second presentation (on Sunday) will discuss storm management, how and when to deploy a drogue, heaving-to, and more. This will be a valuable session from a sailor who has faced more than her fair share of storms in the Southern Ocean!
Other presentations include an interactive session from experienced skipper and boat broker Sonia Robinson, who will provide advice (and talk through some scenarios) on how to set your boat up to suit your sailing needs, to make it easier for short-handed sailing, and equip you with the confidence to step out of your comfort zone. Annette Hesselmans will be back & discussing sail trim for the cruising sailor and will uncover the mysteries of trimming both the headsail and mainsail.
Sonia Robinson
SV RHONA Fabien Vignes, Rocna Anchors Australia will share anchoring tips and discuss new-generation anchors Wendy from Marine Medical Solutions will discuss marine first aid kits and medical issues aboard. Laura Corà Macolino will tell us about The Sassy Sailing Sisters Program Julie Porter will chat about SV Rhona, Hobart’s smallest tall ship Debi Thornton will discuss Cruising and the environment
THE WEEKEND WILL ALSO FEATURE A PANEL OF EXPERTS WHO WILL DISCUSS 'RESCUE AT SEA - WHAT TO EXPECT WHEN THE WORST HAPPENS'. Hear personal stories from WWSA skippers and a panel of experts who will discuss how to prepare for the unexpected, including: Rigging and system failure etc., that ends in a call to Marine Rescue/VMR for assistance. This forum will consider what prep to do ahead in case this happens. How/when to call for help. Know where you want to be towed and ensure you're in that state's waters. How to prep your vessel for towing and how to remunerate those that assist you.
Each morning begins with Yoga4Yachties with Leanne Hembrow from Namaste Ocean Yoga. There will be displays of nautical clothing and books and a book signing with well-known Cruising Cartoonist Sarah Steenland and author of Luff Out Loud.
On Saturday evening, the menfolk are invited to join us for our Gathering dinner, described by one male partner at a previous event as being like sundowners but with shoes on! Attendees staying on after the close of the Gathering on Sunday will meet for breakfast on Monday morning, with some then heading to Newcastle Cruising Yacht Club for a few hours on the water sailing the club’s Force 24 keelboats.
Women Who Sail Australia is a network of more than 5700 women involved with boating (or wish to be). You don’t need to be a member of Women Who Sail Australia to attend, all women who are interested in boats are welcome. The 2023 Gathering on the Bay is sponsored by AHOY Sailing and the Down Under Rally. Additional supporters include Soldiers Point Marina, Rocna Anchors Australia, Marine Medical Solutions, DeckHardware, Paper Sailors Rock, Thwaites Marine, and Hawaiian Heart Massage Therapy. For more information about the Gathering on the Bay (including ticketing details), go to the Women Who Sail Facebook page, www.womenwhosailaustralia.com, email admin@womenwhosailaustralia.com, or click the register now button below.
This event is for all women who love boats - you don't have to be a WWSA member to attend. Speakers will be announced soon, and information will be available on our website.
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New Hope for NIUE YC In December 2022, The Down Under Rally learned that the future of the iconic NIUE Yacht Club was looking rather bleak. As we had visited NYC back in 2012 when we crossed the pacific and have fond memories of our visit (see the extract from our blog on the following page), this was indeed sad news for us the hear. It was Noonsite who, on behalf of the club's acting commodore Keith Vial sent an SOS to the cruising community alerting them of the issues and asking for assistance. Below is a screenshot of a post we shared on our Facebook Page to help raise awareness of the plight of the club. You can read the full Noonsite article HERE
Down Under Rally organiser John Hembrow at NIUE 2012
We followed up with Noonsite & Keith earlier this month, who advised "the response from the cruising community has been overwhelming" and informed us that the local tourism body has taken notice and now realise what an important contribution visiting yachts made to the economy of this tiny country with the big heart.
New Hope for NIUE YC Acting NYC Commodore Keith Vial provided Noonsite with this update late in February 2023: "For a month or two earlier in the year, it looked as though the NYC might founder as we are down to only two of us left. Despite the statistics for the last 14 years that showed 6600 crew had visited Niue, it seemed the government was oblivious to the economic impact cruisers had here. Initially, even the Tourism office was slow to respond. However, since "Noonsite" published this article, we have been overwhelmed by messages from cruisers. Many of the emails have been from crews who have visited here, appreciated the hospitality of the NYC, and all offered assistance in some form. The good news is that help has come over the horizon in the form of NZ Aid to Tourism, with some good ideas and the use of technology to expedite the whole arrival process. NYC's website is also going to be incorporated into aspects of Niue's tourism website to make use of social media to ensure an up-to-date flow of information. So from our darkest hour, a revamped and streamlined NYC should be ready with 20 safe moorings for the start of the 2023 cruising season"
Discounts for Down Under Rally Members
Shore Based Courses Hands On Sail Training Your Boat Or Ours
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The Go East Rally will depart the Gold Coast in May for New Caledonia. Pictured from left to right and top to bottom on the next page are the 18 vessels that have fully registered. Another 4 vessels are also in the process of completing the registration process. Bijoux - Fountain Pajot Salina - Western Australia Bliss - Balance 526 - Kong Kong Bombora - Waller 1200 - Queensland Breeze II -Moody 64 - Hobart Cavallino - Hampton 680 - Queensland Desire - Adams 40 - Queensland
The Go East Rally is a 'destination rally' meaning that once participants arrive in New Caledonia, it is up to them to decide how long they stay, whether they would like to sail onwards to Vanuatu and when and from where they depart for the return voyage to Australia. For those who are keen to continue the adventure in company, there is the option of joining our NC2V Rally from New Caledonia to Vanuatu and our V2A Rally for the return voyage back to Australia from Vanuatu. Some participants have previously chosen to sail south to New Zealand with the Go South Rally and then cruise Tonga & Fiji with our mates from Island Cruising NZ the following year. Or maybe you would like to spend cyclone season in the Solomon Islands like some of our other past participants? The choice is yours, and the Down Under Rally can assist with information to help you make an informed decision!
REGISTRATIONS CLOSING SOON MORE INFORMATION AT:
Double Play - Leopard 46 - Queensland Hideway - Leopard 44 - Queensland Iria - Condor Trimaran 12.5 Queensland LaiLai Lady - Beneteau Oceanis 45 - Queensland Levitha - Fountain Pajot Lavezzi - Queensland Mahalo V - Seawind 1200 - Queensland Me & Mrs Jones - Beneteau Oceanis 48 - Victoria mySerenity - Lagoon L400 - Queensland Nautilus II - Lagoon 450S - Queensland Pneuma - Schionning Cosmos - Queensland Vaquita - Bruce Roberts 44 - Queensland Zero - Schionning 18.5 - Queensland
2023
downunderrally.com/go-east-rally
Tender Moments Our tender was a little underpowered and no good for climbing in and out of the water, so we started looking around for light weigh tenders for our 36 ft catamaran Remarkable. I called several companies and emailed with little help, unfortunately, then I remembered that RIBFORCE Inflatables were a Down Under Rally partner business, so I contacted them. Going back and forth with Mike during the decision-making process was just great. He asked all the right questions in regards to what we wanted it for and what activities we would be looking to do with the tender and was so helpful, so cheers, Mike. We went with the Aurora Reef Rider and the Mercury 15 hp after chatting with Mike from Rib Force Inflatables. The customer service has been really good especially considering the competitors who would not return emails or enquiries. The end result is fantastic! We love our new tender.
This Tender moment was brought to you by Down Under Rally Member Nathan Day
www.ribforceinflatables.com.au Tel: 1800742367
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Departing Australia By Yacht? When an Australian registered & tax paid small craft departs Australia for an overseas port, it is considered to have been exported, and an export declaration is required. On departure, the Australian Border Force issues a certificate of clearance that includes the port overseas to which the craft is departing. In order to obtain a certificate of outward clearance, an export declaration number must be provided. A certificate of clearance will not be issued prior to the provision of a confirmed EDN. There is no mandatory requirement for a customs broker to undertake the clearance formalities however it is generally recommended.
Learn More Here
AUSTRALIAN VESSELS RETURNING TO AUSTRALIA. If your vessel has departed from Australia, you will be required to re-import your vessel when you return to Australia You can clarify this yourself with the Australian Border Force by emailing the Bundaberg Office of the ABF using the following email address. bundaberg@abf.gov.au. If the vessel was tax paid when it left Australia, you should not have to pay import duty or GST again; however, only the ABF can confirm this. If the ABF confirms this is the case, they will likely inform you that you will need to complete some paperwork on arrival to re-import the vessel and that they strongly recommend you employ a customs agent to assist with the completion and lodgement of the associated paperwork.
The Down Under Rally has a long-standing relationship with DAZMAC, who are customs brokers. The Down Under Rally recommends contacting DAZMAC to get a quote from them to act as your agent should you be required to import or re-import a vessel. You can make an obligation-free enquiry with Dazmac via the following page of the Down Under Rally website: www.downunderrally.com/agents. Discounts for Down Under Rally Members.
CRUISE IN COMPANY 2023 LEARN MORE
Departs Australia in May LEARN MORE
Departs New Caledonia in August LEARN MORE
Departs Fiji in August
CRUISE IN COMPANY 2023 LEARN MORE
Departs Fiji in August LEARN MORE
September - November Sailing with The Down Under Rally provides our rally particpants with access to the knowledge and the relationships we have gained over many years of crusing in the SW Pacific & Australia. In addition our rally participants have the opportunity to visit destinations that may otherwise not be an option. And we have plenty of fun in the process!
THE DOWN UNDER RALLY IS PROUD TO SPONSOR PASSAGE GUARDIAN. By sponsoring Passage Guardian the Down Under Rally helps make it possible for the Passage Guardian service to remain available & FREE to ALL cruising yachts when making ocean passages.
passageguardian.nz
By Chris Rose
During 2022 we shared a series of articles in AHOY written by Chris Rose about sailing from Brisbane to The Kimberley Coast as part of a circumnavigation of Australia. Chris & Jo departed Brisbane in 2021 and at the time of writing this article they are aboard No Regrets in Tasmania with plans to complete their circumnavigation later this year. In 2023 we will continue to share their adventures from 2022, picking up from where we left of in the Kimberley Region of Western Australia.
If you missed the previous articles we published, you can always catch up on past or missed issues of AHOY Sailing at www.downunderrally.com/ahoy.
By Chris Rose
By ByChris ChrisRose Rose
CRUISING THE KIMBERLEY
An AHOY Sailing Series
The Mitchell River is renowned for one of the most spectacular four-tiered waterfalls in Australia and is an iconic Kimberley attraction, but it is over 20 nautical miles inland and only accessible by four-wheel drive or helicopter. We had considered hiring a seaplane or helicopter to view these falls, but it was a little difficult to organise, especially securing a trip months in advance, making any cruising plan difficult and restrictive. There are still very spectacular waterfalls in the lower parts of the Mitchell River to see, and I personally found this lower region to be my favourite location in the Kimberley.
By Chris Rose
Weaving our way through the large pearling operations in the Osborne Islands with garfish skipping along the surface in an attempt to evade us, we motored the 35 nautical miles to the Mitchell River due to a complete lack of wind. It was so calm that we could look behind No Regrets and see the two tracks left from our catamaran to the horizon like it was a railway track. "It was so calm that we could look behind No Regrets and see the two tracks left from our catamaran to the horizon like it was a railway track."
Entering Walmesly Bay and into the river mouth, we made our way past Middle Rock, where the larger charter boats predominantly stop. Venturing further upstream is a little more challenging, with the next 3 miles scattered with many drying rocks and numerous sandbars. It is recommended that you should survey the river at low water to determine your best path, but as we had just arrived almost at the top of the tide, we used our satellite imagery to make our way upstream. With the tide not far away from peaking and then receding, we certainly did not want to take too long to determine our path nor venture too shallow, as getting stuck would mean sitting very high and dry, hopefully on the sand and not rocks, in a river infested with large saltwater crocodiles. With several shallow areas encountered and unsure of the best path forward, we stopped quickly and launched our tender. Chris then surveyed the area of uncertainty in the tender while creating a sonar chart using our portable echo sounder.
Chris relayed the path from the tender to follow using our handheld VHF, pointing out the deepest path with Joanne carefully manoeuvring our catamaran through the shallows "Chris created a sonar chart in the tender using our portable echo sounder. "
After confirming the deepest sections of water, Chris relayed the path from the tender to follow using our handheld VHF, pointing out the deepest path with Joanne carefully manoeuvring our catamaran through the shallows. With just over a meter of water under our keels, we crossed the first of the shallow sand bars, safely making our way to the deeper water anchorage in front of Surveyors Creek for the night.
By Chris Rose
We woke the following morning with it now being nearer to low tide and could then fully appreciate the incredible anchorage in which we had stopped. Large, exposed sand bars extended from just behind our stern across four hundred meters to a very green and heavily wooded mangrove island. Larger rocks could now be seen, which created further sand deposits from their position, steering the water into one of the channels that we had followed. Much of the route we had taken was now above water, and what was still underwater was extremely shallow. Launching the drone revealed some spectacular scenery in this incredible location, but it still could only give a tiny perspective of just where we were and what we could see around us. We were anchored in a deeper hole just on the edge of Surveyors Creek that was itself predominantly dry with soft mud flats, lined on each side with a thick growth of mangrove trees. From this bird’s eye view, the many sand bars that lay along the river could be seen, some that we had already crossed and those creating an obstacle to travel further upstream. "We woke the following morning with it now being nearer to low tide and could then fully appreciate the incredible anchorage in which we had stopped."
After waiting for the tide to come in approximately halfway, it was time to drop the tender and head up to explore Surveyors Creek. The mouth of the creek has some very large rocks on the southern side, so you need to ensure you keep to the northern side of the centre when entering. It is nearly a two-nautical mile trip upstream that immediately turns left once you enter Surveyors Creek and then, after a short distance, turns sharply right before it then maintains a nearly straight course to the rock bar. Motoring up the creek, we observed several crocodiles, so there were undoubtedly many others lurking in the muddy water out of sight.
By Chris Rose
"After waiting for the tide to come in approximately halfway, it was time to drop the tender and head up to explore Surveyors Creek."
Having secured our tenders near some large rocks to allow for the incoming tide and hoping this would also make getting back in simple and safe, we started our hike upriver, climbing and hopping over the rocks and boulders.
Not very far upriver, we came across the first large canyon-lined lagoon, complete with a waterfall spilling into the deeper water at the top. Unfortunately, this lagoon was quite deep and easily within access of a saltwater crocodile. It was impossible to see the bottom, and despite the relentless heat and our overwhelming desire to get in and cool off, it was too dangerous to get in. Returning to the start of the lagoon, we found an area where we could climb up the canyon walls to the top. At the summit, we found a fantastic rock formation that appeared as though the enormous flat boulder had been placed on pillars elevating it and creating an excellent, shaded spot to rest and take in the spectacular views back down Surveyors Creek.
By Chris Rose
Following the edge of the canyon ridge, we made our way to the first waterfall supplying the deep lagoon. A shallower section can be found with another beautiful waterfall, complete with a perfectly formed bench seat where we sat under the falls, enjoying the water flowing over us.
After cooling off, we ventured further upstream and found another lagoon and falls, this fall working its way through a crevasse in the rock and passing under like a bridge. After climbing to the top of this third waterfall, we noted that the water was much shallower and safe to swim. Although safe from crocodiles, the rock surfaces in the water were extremely slippery, and caution from a nasty fall was needed. A fall resulting in a broken limb would not easily be managed in such a remote location.
By Chris Rose
A look further upstream revealed more lagoons and waterfalls, tempting us to continue our adventures the following day and, hopefully, enjoy a swim or two. Having carried the drone in its waterproof bag whilst splashing across rivers with slippery crossings, it was time to launch it and capture some video of this incredibly picturesque location. The numerous lagoons stretching along the river, waterfalls connecting each creek segment, and surrounded by the iconic Kimberly create a truly stunning landscape.
Having carried the drone in its waterproof bag whilst splashing across rivers with slippery crossings, it was time to launch it and capture some footage of this incredibly picturesque location.
By Chris Rose
Rising just before dawn to move further upriver to the rock bar with the incoming tide, I noticed slight movement not far from our rear platform step in the very faint light of dawn. Stepping up a little higher, we could make out a sneaky crocodile keeping a very close eye on us as we prepared to lift anchor.
"Stepping up a little higher, we could make out a sneaky crocodile keeping a very close eye on us as we prepared to lift anchor."
Using our satellite imagery in SAS Planet, we had a high-resolution river map that had luckily been taken at low tide and conveniently showed the larger rock positions along with the channel we needed to follow. After marking these dangers as waypoints in our chart plotter, we slowly worked our way over the remaining sandbars passing some shallower regions of only 2.4m total depth. The river finally narrowed and became deeper, allowing us to relax and enjoy the scenic trip upriver. Nearing the top of the navigable stretch of river to the rock bar, we encountered another shallow stretch, which our plotter confirmed would be exposed at low water. The urgency to find deeper water before the tide started to go out increased, and luckily just before the rock bar, the river deepened, and a suitable anchorage was found.
The urgency to find deeper water before the tide started to go out increased, and luckily just before the rock bar, the river deepened, and a suitable anchorage was found.
By Chris Rose
After setting the anchor, I just had to get a drone shot of our anchorage in this incredibly remote location. After videoing some more of the spectacular scenery along the river, it was time to take a few panning shots of the boats with the limited battery life remaining... that's when disaster struck.
Whilst flying the (very expensive) drone sideways and panning around the boats, I failed to notice, and the drone also failed to detect with its sensors a tree in its flight path, and a collision occurred. The drone immediately halted its flight and crashed into the tree's top branches, finishing in the tree hanging with the camera looking skywards up through a few leaves. With a very low battery warning beeping at me, a frantic search and rescue began. Our mates from the boats we were travelling with jumped in their tenders, and we began scouring the canyon cliff faces. It should be mentioned that it was very hot, in the upper 30s, and very dry making running and climbing frantically along the canyon ledges very draining. I tried to use the flight map features but just could not locate the drones position. Not long into the search and rescue, the controller and drone batteries were flat. You usually could Google how to recover your latest flight path, but there was no mobile signal or any communication possible. (Starlink is now available, and for the first-time high, speed, low latency internet is possible; (how things have changed in just over 18 months). With the fear of losing this expensive toy growing and depression beginning to set in, we continued searching for several hours. Using the last photo taken as a reference to determine the height and location against the yacht's mast, we scoured a specific section of the cliff. With drinks brought over to us to help combat the fatigue and dehydration, we sat halfway up the cliffs, and I began to accept the inevitable...
By Chris Rose
Sitting there with my drink and commiserating about the loss of the drone, I looked up into a branch above my head, where I miraculously spotted one very camouflaged drone! With the boat hook and a little climbing, a very fortunate recovery was made, and a very happy reunion was had. 😃
Feeling fortunate to have recovered the drone and it still being operational, we took advantage of the incoming tide and set off in the tenders upriver, past the rock bar. With sufficient depth, thanks to the rising tide, we could cross the “rapids” section and into the top area of the rocky gorge with some larger pools. The final section is littered with massive boulders and pools where you negotiate your way around in the riverbed, slowly making your way to the very top of the gorge. After selecting a secure area and setting a long anchor rode to allow for the large tide to come in and recede (Port Warrander has a tidal range of around 7m, the river varies between 60-80% of that range), we began our hike up the gorge.
With sufficient depth, thanks to the rising tide, we could cross the “rapids” section and into the top area of the rocky gorge with some larger pools.
By Chris Rose
The rocks are pretty large, and after an hour or so, we made our way up through some unique rock formations to reach our first waterfall. After deciding the pool was shallow and safe from crocs, we climbed under the first of the falls.
As we approached the waterfall, there was a massive boulder with a huge round hole through it, with a single round rock inside it that must roll around when the wet season water flows down the river and up ahead a 2-tier waterfall where you could swim and slip behind the cascading falls sitting comfortably with the water cascading over in front of you making for an incredibly memorable experience.
"a 2-tier waterfall where you could swim and slip behind the cascading falls sitting comfortably with the water cascading over in front of you"
By Chris Rose
Just a little to the side was a huge hole going straight down where a large amount of water was rushing, something similar in design to a vortex water park ride. The noise of the rushing water was incredible, and we kept to the side of this flow as it was pretty daunting watching the force of the water disappearing, with no knowing where it was going below.
"a huge hole going straight down where a large amount of water was rushing, something similar in design to a vortex water park ride." Pushing your way through the waterfall, there was a dimly lit cavern with branches heading back to the left that revealed the base of the scary vortex we had seen above, with water rushing in and spinning around. A drone flight showed more spectacular waterholes and waterfalls further upriver, but we had to return to our tender before the tide was too low. We had indeed found the most amazing natural waterpark, so we decided to return the following day and make the most of it.
By Chris Rose
The following morning, we headed back up the river on the late incoming tide and left our tender at our previous anchor spot, again with a very long anchor rode to allow for the significant tidal movement. We hiked up past our previous waterpark and over the most incredible rocky riverbeds, with huge round potholes in them like they had been cut by a cookie cutter. These potholes are formed by water passing over a rock surface and smaller rocks spinning in these holes like a cement mixer grinding away further. The rocky river surface was an incredible golden colour, and it felt like we could have been walking on the moon with the unusual rock formations and erosions. Our next waterfall had a drop of 3-4 meters and a huge overhang, so we could again sit behind the falls and swim through them in the shallow pool at the bottom. To get to the top of these falls, we had to cross to the left side of the river and getting across was made challenging as the surface was extremely slippery, with water rushing past the smaller waterfall feeding a large deep lagoon that we felt was unsafe to swim. Although this lagoon was beautifully deep, with elevated ledges just beckoning me to jump from, we couldn’t be sure of its safety. At the top of the second falls, we found deep holes we could sit and swim in, with the waterfalls providing a wonderful infinity pool before the water plunged to the deeper lagoon below. Working our way a little further up the river, we came to our next set of cascading waterfalls that fed into yet another large lagoon. Not keen to swim in the large lagoon, we climbed up past very deep rock potholes in the smooth polished rocky bed, some 5-6 meters deep. We were weaving our way around the edges of these numerous holes, being very careful not to slip into one and injure ourselves. This next set of falls provided many deep safe swimming opportunities and even a slippery dip into one fall that carried you back to lower sections.
Most of these potholes had spherical rocks inside them, occasionally almost perfectly round, resembling a golf ball or a softball.
By Chris Rose
After a day of incredible adventure, waterfalls, and numerous swimming pools, it was time to return to our tenders and return to our yachts. After one last play in our waterfall cave system, we returned to where our tenders were left and found our tender had decided to misbehave. It had decided to park itself on a lovely flat rocky ledge, some 3-4 meters above the now receded water level.
"Bigger, is not always best in the Kimberley. That is until we see a crocodile near us, then bigger is ALWAYS better." Of course, as cruisers travelling a great many places, we must have an outboard security lock installed for insurance, and not having the key with us prevented us from removing the motor in any attempt to drag the tender and try to consider how we could lower it down to the water below. Our tender is quite large, making it quite heavy and difficult to move. When it’s floating and full of dive gear, it is fantastic, but dragging it up a beach that goes out a kilometre, or challenges such as our current situation, bigger, is not always best in the Kimberley. Until we see a crocodile near us, then bigger is ALWAYS better. With no other option, we had to take the second smaller tender back to the rock bar, with most of our group hiking around the rocks and then making several trips to get everyone back on their boats.
By Chris Rose
Safely back on No Regrets, we had to plan our rescue mission to get our tender back. Unfortunately, we had to wait until later that night, and in complete darkness with no moon in a crocodileinfested river, we headed off to collect her.
Taking every fully charged torch we had, we were picked up in the second tender and made our way back upriver to recover our tender. Spotlighting numerous sets of red eyes even before getting into our tender had us all on crocodile watch and, as you would expect, very alert. Weaving our way slowly so as not to hit any submerged rocks but at the same time to go as fast as we could so as not to be a crocodile snack, we weaved our way through the rocky boulders, which slowed our progress. With great relief, we finally located it, and it was just about to start floating, so our timing was perfect. Jo and I jumped into it, and we all made our way back to the safety of our yachts, fully aware of the crocodiles we had seen circling us when we left and that were again eyeing our every move as we returned.
"Taking every fully charged torch we had, we made our way back upriver to recover our tender." We were very thankful to be safely back onboard, reunited with our tender, still in possession of our drone and our limbs and were now ready to head back down the river and on to our next destination and more adventures...
Cruising The Kimberley.
SAILING NO REGRETS YOUTUBE CHANNEL... A VERY USEFUL FREE RESOURCE TO HELP RESEARCH & PLAN YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE
Now Available from PredictWind PredictWind, the world's leading provider of weather and routing services for the marine industry, is proud to announce the availability of the Iridium GO! exec. This device is set to revolutionize the satellite phone market with its increased data speeds, improved functionality, and competitive pricing.
"The Iridium GO! was a game-changer for the satellite phone market," says Jon Bilger, CEO of PredictWind. "For the first time, people could connect their own device to the web while offshore. Although the unlimited plan was cost-effective, the data speeds really limited its use to just satellite phone calls, sms, email and weather. This is why we are so excited about the Iridium GO! exec. With 40 times faster download speeds, there are now so many exciting possibilities for customers, anywhere on the ocean."
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The PredictWind DataHub seamlessly integrates with the Iridium GO! exec to enable GPS tracking, allowing friends and family to see the boat's position on a map and check its progress, and view blog posts and photos in real-time. The DataHub also shares wind speed and direction, directly from the boat's instrumentation to the GPS tracking webpage. PredictWind Weather Routing has transformed the way cruisers get weather offshore. With the Iridium GO! exec, weather routing calculations are even faster and more accurate. "Gigabytes of data are used in the PredictWind cloud to calculate the route in a compact file that is less than 1% of the equivalent GRIB data," says Jon. "This data saving is a gamechanger for low-speed satellite connections and is now even faster to acquire with the Iridium GO! exec."
The Iridium GO! exec also allows real-time updating of the boat's polars, using machine learning techniques to produce an extremely accurate polar for the boat in all conditions. This, combined with real-time wave routing, gives the user the best possible data to inform their decision-making while offshore.
Now Available from PredictWind With its permanent internet connection, the Iridium GO! exec has also enabled PredictWind to develop its new Anchor Alert App. This app monitors the movement of the boat's GPS location, wind speed, direction, depth, and other NMEA 2000 data, alerting the user if conditions change or become unsafe. "We're excited that the Iridium GO! exec offers increased data speeds for our customers at a really competitive price point," says Keryn. "The flexibility of the yearly plans is perfect for our core customer base who cruise for 3-6 months and only require the Iridium GO! exec during their offshore passages. The data allowance doesn't expire monthly, so it's always ready to go when they start their next passage." "We truly believe the Iridium GO! exec is a quantum leap forward in terms of functionality and safety and an essential device for any boat venturing offshore," says Jon. With its increased data speeds and global coverage, the Iridium GO! exec is the perfect go-anywhere device for customers who need to stay connected while on the water.
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I really enjoyed the course. I have learned so much more than I expected. Thankyou for a great course. Robert & Kerry G. February 2023
1 YEAR FREE ACSESS FOR DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS CLICK THE LINK OR SCAN THE QR CODE FOR MORE INFORMATION.
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Anchoring Each year sail-boats get into trouble at anchor in atolls: they get trapped on lee shores after a shift in the wind direction, foul their anchor and/or chain in coral, and the results are stressful manoeuvres to get the anchor back up, bent bow rollers and ruined or even ripped out windlasses. Of course, the fragile coral structures get badly damaged with each of these messed-up manoeuvres. Isn't an anchorage with colourful coral and fishies much nicer than a dead rubble field? It is easy to avoid damage to the coral and your boat if you.....
Around Coral anchor in conditions with good visibility (don't drop your anchor blindly), anchor in shallow water, where...you can clearly see the bottom, ...usually fewer coral heads grow on the sandy shelves, and...you only need a short chain, try to find a big, sandy area to drop your hook, keep an eye on the weather forecast and move to a safe anchorage before the wind shifts, float the chain so the boat can swing around in shifting winds without getting the chain caught in coral heads.
FLOATING THE CHAIN IS A SIMPLE PROCEDURE. YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING: 2 medium-sized fenders or buoys 2 carabiners that fit into your chain HOW TO DEPLOY YOUR FLOATED CHAIN... 1. Drop the anchor in the middle of the biggest sandy spot you can find 2. Pay out the chain while reversing gently 3. Look around at the surrounding coral heads and estimate your swinging radius. Hook in the first fender before the chain could touch any of them. 4. Pay out some more chain and set the anchor gently pulling in reverse. 5. If the scope is still insufficient, a second float can be added, followed by more chain. TIP: If you cannot avoid anchoring blindly in deep water, it still makes sense to float the chain to avoid getting tangled in unseen (and maybe living) structures. Use a bundle of 2 floats to carry the extra weight of the longer chain. ABOUT THE AUTHORS SY Pitufa, Birgit and Christian www.pitufa.at We set out 12 years ago and have travelled via the Med, Atlantic and Caribbean to the Pacific aboard our S&S 41 SY "Pitufa". Once in the Pacific, we were cruising in and around the five archipelagos of French Polynesia for nine years and have gathered lots of info about cruising areas which we share on our blog. We cruise all year round, try to experience regions in all their facets and report on our blog, that's updated at least once a week and share tips about anchoring techniques, wildlife protection, etc. We have published many articles about destinations and helpful DIY topics (many are available for free download on our blog). We have also published a book about our travels: "Sailing Towards the Horizon" is available on Amazon. We are very interested in the weather. We look at forecasts daily and share valuable sites on our blog. E.g. we have a summary of all weather sources we used in French Polynesia on our blog with all sources embedded in just one-page www.pitufa.at/weather-fp and a global interactive wind atlas (based on satellite data) that's ideal for passage planning www.pitufa.at/oceanwinds. Just click through the months to see the prevailing wind speed and direction for the region you're interested in! We're "green cruisers" who rely only on alternative energy sources and try to minimise the impact we have on the environment. Living close to nature and the elements, we witness the changes and the adverse effects of cruisers and local populations on fragile ecosystems. Whenever we feel that something's gone awry in a place that we visit, we try to take action: Plastic on the beach? We try to raise awareness of pollution and organise a clean-up. Hardly any fish on the reef? We discuss sustainable fishing with the locals. www.pitufa.at/2022/10/no-reef-no-fish-no-fish-no-reef Broken coral around the anchorage? We approach cruisers and try to educate them about anchoring techniques that avoid damage. www.pitufa.at/2017/05/anchoring-around-coral Our projects include two moorings that we installed together with the local community in the main bay of Rapa Iti to protect the coral there and to save cruisers from risking chain and anchor in the deep and tricky anchorage www.pitufa.at/2019/01/a-mooring-for-rapa-iti
INTRODUCING THE PITUFINO NEXT-GENERATION NAVDATA WI-FI GATEWAY!
Christian from SY Pitufa has designed and developed a "Pitufino" multiplexer wifi-gateway box that can do much more than the competition: it turns tables/smartphones into fully functional nav instruments, is an autopilot remote control & features alarms, a logbook, etc. It comes at a better price than the competition, and Christian provides individual customer support (he's constantly in touch with people and adds features). The Pitufino should be of particular interest to cruisers who don't want to replace broken chartplotters, or simply don't want to run the big chartplotter all the time, that need an autopilot remote control or just enjoy lying on the sofa during night watch with the smartphone to check course, wind, AIS signals etc. instead of sitting outside in the cockpit. The problem with this magic box is that only a few people know about it...
LEARN MORE ABOUT THE PITUFINO MULTIPLEXER WIFI-GATEWAY BOX HERE: WWW.PITUFA.AT/PITUFINO
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What type of sailor are you?
By Rob Latimer
What type of sailor are you? By Rob Latimer
Some sailors race. Others cruise. While many tinker. But it was Ratty from Wind in the Willows who summed it up best when he exclaimed,
there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. As for me, I’m definitely not a racer, however, who hasn’t gripped the wheel more tightly or paid more attention to the trim of the sails after spying another vessel heading roughly in the same direction.
Like many, though, I started sailing in dinghies on Port Phillip Bay as a kid. This progressed to a Compass 29 my father bought in the 1970s while I was in my teens, opening the door to many adventures and narrow escapes around Bass Strait and Tasmania. Then, in 2006, after a succession of shared boat-ownership arrangements spanning more than 20 years (involving two Nicholson 32s), my brother and I made a quantum leap in the form of a 55-foot steel cutter called Chimere. At around 30 tons, to us, Chimere – which means “unattainable dream” – was more ship than yacht, allowing us to travel further, safer, in more comfort, and with plenty of room for friends.
An unexpected direction Around this time, by chance, I read an article in the Cruising Helmsman magazine titled “Sailing for Humanity”. It was an account of doctors, dentists and optometrists delivering scarce and much-needed medical services around the islands of Vanuatu aboard a yacht.
SV Chimere, my 55 foot steel cutter, lays at anchor, Waterfall Bay, Vanua Lava, Vanuatu
It seemed like an opportunity to combine a love of sailing with ... “doing some good in the world”. After reading the article, I remember thinking … “I’d love to do that”,… but whilst I had a boat, I knew nothing about Vanuatu, didn’t have a medical background, and I’d never sailed across an ocean before...
"It seemed like an opportunity to combine a love of sailing with ... “doing some good in the world".
Ignorance Is Bliss.... It’s a long story, but after much dreaming, talking, planning and above all, frustration, the makings of a “venture” began to take shape. The goal was simple. We’d partner with existing aid groups to help them take medical teams to the most isolated and out-of-the-way islands and villages – yes, in Vanuatu. The year was 2008, and the Global Financial Crisis was starting to take hold. And here was I, establishing a group called Medical Sailing Ministries (MSM) … locking in dates and making promises, six months hence, to transport teams of health professionals to tiny villages on obscure islands I could barely find on the chart. They say, “ignorance is bliss”, which I think is only partially true. There’s no doubt in 2008, I was ignorant of what truly lay before me, but with my business overdraft climbing and my usually supportive wife using words like deserted and abandoned, I was anything but blissful.
Soon enough, May 2009 came around, and it was time to set sail on our first voyage and health transport mission to Vanuatu. The “learning curve” was steep, very steep. But it’s amazing how far enthusiasm, hard work and persistence can take you. To compensate for all my shortcomings, weaknesses and lack of experience, I recruited a diverse mix of experienced sailors. All volunteers, with a shared desire to also … “do some good in the world”.
To compensate for all my shortcomings, weaknesses and lack of experience, I recruited a diverse mix of experienced sailors, all of whom volunteers, with a shared desire to also … “do some good in the world”. At the conclusion of that 6month voyage in 2009, I returned with a deep sense of satisfaction. This satisfaction was shared by the 20 or so sailing volunteers, who’d joined me along the way, each paying a share of the running costs for the privilege.
We all thought we were going there to “give” when in fact, we came away having “received” far more in the form of a priceless experience.
There’s something very special about Vanuatu Ask almost anyone who has sailed to Vanuatu, and they’ll soon relate stories of friendly smiles, warm welcomes and the simple, laid-back style of the locals. Not to mention the beautiful, largely unspoilt environment.
Local lads put on a concert for us, some of which was captured on video HERE Having untied our lines and finally got underway, subsequent Vanuatu sailing missions were conducted in 2010, 2013 and 2017. Each time, expanding our knowledge and experience while building deeper relationships both in Vanuatu and more broadly.
Over the past 14 years, Medical Sailing Ministries (MSM) has changed its focus from transporting medical teams to establishing an oral health program in response to the tremendous need we observed. We have also become a registered Australian charity with tax-deductible status (DGR) and, in 2017, coordinated a National Oral Health Survey on behalf of the Vanuatu Ministry of Health. One thing led to another, and in 2019 we started manufacturing coconut oil-based, bubble-gumflavoured toothpaste – in Vanuatu – for use in a supervised brushing program we have developed; again, on behalf of the Vanuatu Ministry of Health. The brushing program is called “Gudfala Tut Skul” (pr Good-fella Toot Skool) and now directly involves around 4,000 children, across 72 kindies and schools.
https://msm.or g.au/wpcontent/upload s/2022/03/202 2-02-22Gudfala-tutBrochure-2022FINAL.pdf
What can we do that’s useful when we visit Vanuatu? Running an oral health program is certainly a far cry from where we originally started, but whilst I now have Chimere on the market, yachties with an interest in Vanuatu regularly ask me ... “what can we do that’s useful when we visit?” So here are a few tips, based on my experience, to aid your planning
Plan ahead but stay open for opportunities Given that many cruising schedules can be ad hoc and unplanned, one crucial consideration is planning. So having determined the period of time you have available, the skills you bring and the islands or region through which you will be travelling, it’s a good idea to make contact with organisations operating in the area – ideally several months in advance. A thorough web search will soon provide a list of possibilities.
Connect with Rotary If you are a member of Rotary International, or even if you’re not, there’s a club in both Port Vila and Luganville. Why not check them out, see what activities and programs they currently have on the go, and see if you might be able to lend a hand. On one occasion, after attending the Luganville Rotary Club, we were asked if we could deliver a mountain of second-hand sports equipment donated by an Australian charity. This was something we could easily do as we island-hopped our way north – making sure to give the balls, bats and rackets to the schools in each village, rather than any one individual.
Low Smoke Stoves – Made from Mud Bricks Smoke from village cooking fires was one thing we observed while travelling around Vanuatu, in particular, its detrimental effect on the health of women and children. In fact, according to a Science magazine article from December 2011, more people die worldwide of smoke inhalation and associated illnesses than malaria – yes, I was amazed too. In response, we designed a Low Smoke Stove - a “Rocket Stove” – made entirely out of sun-dried mud bricks, an idea we shared wherever we could through hands-on demonstrations. A further design, this time using cement, was also created, making use of an old bucket, which we aptly named “The Bucket Stove.” Tip: Before conducting a mudbrick-making demonstration in a remote island community (in front of a large crowd of bemused and enthusiastic onlookers), it might first be a good idea to make and trial one at home in your backyard.
Making mud bricks to build low smoke stoves
Be Open to Helping Other examples where opportunities to assist seemed just to pop up were; Delivering boxes of toothpaste for the Vanuatu Health Dept. to the isolated island of Merelava in the Banks Group. Delivering local language (Bislama) bibles to remote village communities. Offering transport to a local chief to reach a regional meeting on an island further north. Evacuating a young woman and her mother to a nearby island for emergency medical care, the delivery of her baby via caesarean, as it turned out.
More Useful Tips include …
Fixing a broken tap on a school water tank
Buy local produce, and be sure to pay a fair price. Haggling is not the norm here, so it’s best to just ask, “how much?” Take the time to learn something about the culture, history and kastom of each place being visited. Dress and behave respectfully, especially in villages and near religious or culturally significant areas. Learn keywords in the local language, Bislama – always a good way to build rapport and give the locals something new to smile at. Respect the dignity and privacy of others – ask before taking photos. When going ashore, remember that all land, tracks, gardens, features, and sites should be considered private property. Only wander around after permission has been granted. Usually, it’s as simple as asking someone in authority, and for a small fee, a guide can usually be found if required. Minimise your rubbish, remembering to take it back with you and not dump it offshore. Be aware of coral and marine environments when anchoring – where possible, anchor in sand. Do not buy products made from coral, endangered plants or animals, e.g. conch shells, giant clams etc. If you want to give money, it’s usually best to support community projects rather than individuals. Employing locals at a fair price to scrub the hull, paint the deck, or do other tasks, injects much-needed income into the local economy. Entry, or access fees, to local sites and features can apply. It’s best to expect them and remember, there are few opportunities for the locals to earn income in the outlying islands, and they rely on this to pay school fees, buy fuel, soap and other necessities. Ensure trade or gifts are responsible, i.e. healthy and sustainable to the environment. And please don’t hand sweets out to the local children – maybe toothbrushes and toothpaste instead!
Useful items for trading fishing gear petrol 2-stroke oil flip-flops caps, hats and appropriate clothing for children and adults. wind-up torches, solar lights and chargers toothbrushes, toothpaste, sunglasses 1 & 2 x magnificent spectacles
snorkels (“pipe ‘n’ glass” in Bislama) & flippers (“leg-blong-duck-duck”), rope soap & cleaning products hand woodworking tools & nails epoxy & fibreglass matting bags of flour and yeast (for the village bread maker) tubes of sticky adhesive and sealant compound - for fixing wooden canoes.
Regarding the spectacles Whilst optometrists and eye specialists will rightly advise that glasses should only be prescribed after a competent eye test has been conducted, as far as low-magnification, off-the-shelf “readers” are concerned, they suffice in the vast majority of cases where eyesight is fading due to old age. For me, it started around age 40, and I’ve been wearing a progression of $4 readers of increasing magnification ever since. In remote villages, a pair of these glasses can enable people to resume daily tasks such as weaving, threading fish hooks, reading, preparing meals, teaching and gardening. So if you are thinking of giving away glasses, have a range of magnifications on hand. Then ask the person to read something using different ones. They will quickly tell you which one suits them best. In summing up, for those yachties willing to be flexible with their time, open to opportunities as they arise and sensitive to the customs of the locals, there is an amazing array of useful things that can be done while sailing around the islands. On the flip side, however, it was pointed out to me that the appearance of a “yacht in the bay”, could possibly lead to an expectation among villagers that any passing yacht is there to fix generators, give out clothes, repair gutters, provide transport etc like a floating Santa Claus, when this is obviously not the case. A good first step, like travelling anywhere, is to start by building friendships as you go, based on showing respect and a genuine interest in the life of others. Naturally, some people and places you’ll warm to, others you won’t. But again, being flexible with your schedule will mean that “useful doors” will inevitably be opened to you, and your experience will turn out to be a deeper and more meaningful one. If you’d like to make contact with me to discover possible opportunities for lending a hand, simply email me at msmvanuatu@gmail.com. You can also view some of the MSM Vanuatu videos HERE And our latest Annual Report HERE. As they say in Vanuatu ... “Lukim Yu” (see you later) and “Tank Yu Tumas !” (thanks very much) Robert Latimer. www.msm.org.au
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This is the second instalment in an AHOY Sailing News series written by Richard Chesher about critical health issues you can easily avoid when cruising the tropics – IF you learn from other cruisers' mistakes and get serious about protecting yourself and your crew.
H E A L T H Y
Every cruiser knows they will face dangers from the weather, equipment failure, collisions with other vessels, and accidents. A sensible captain takes precautions to prevent these accidents by getting good weather forecasts, maintaining the vessel’s equipment, using lights and AIS and keeping watch at sea, having a good medical kit and safety equipment aboard, etc. And most cruisers know what to do if these dangers surprise them at sea. But an amazing number of cruisers have no idea how to defend against the health dangers lying in wait for them when they arrive in remote tropical areas far from medical care.
C IN THE PACIFIC R TROPICAL ISLANDS U "Smart people I learn from their S mistakes, smarter people learn from other peoples' I mistakes." N G
BY RICHARD CHESHER, PH.D.
If you get sick from contaminated water, attacked by malaria, a deadly blood virus-like dengue fever, parasites, fish poisoning or a flesh-eating microbe, it will be a long and expensive ordeal and may cause permanent disabilities or even kill you or one of your crew.
Health issues are serious dangers for mariners but few cruisers take elementary precautions to protect themselves and their crew. Disease organisms kill more people every year than all the maritime and diving accidents, shark, sea serpent, crocodile, sea wasp, or even pirate attacks combined. You and your crew truly want to avoid getting sick or injured anywhere, but this is especially the case when cruising far from medical support. The good news is that most cruisers avoid serious health issues either through luck or prudence.
To be sure the good news applies to you and yourcrew, follow these three very simple rules:
1. FIND OUT WHAT HEALTH DANGERS ARE LURKING BEFORE YOU SET SAIL. 2. DON’T LET THEM GET YOU. 3. KNOW WHAT TO DO IF YOU FAIL.
M O S Q U I T O H E A L T H A L E R T
Below are a couple of accounts of health mistakes made by cruisers and the consequences... by the way, Dengue Fever is also a serious threat in the Pacific Islands.
“I was bitten by mosquitos while hauled out at the Marina Manzanillo Club in Cartagena, Colombia. Symptoms began with a high fever, then a dangerously high fever with a fullbody ache. They don't call it "breakbone fever" for nothing. I was in bed in an apartment at the marina for several days, partly delirious. I was finally able to stagger to a taxi and get to a hospital, where they took blood and prescribed Acetaminophen (Ibuprophen is dangerous because of bleeding). The fever followed the normal cycle precisely: fever, fever reduced, the fever returned, then stinging full-body rash--bright red palms and soles of feet." Ben Zartman, S/V Ganymede
“I got Dengue in Vava'u Tonga in the mid 90's. Spent a week in my bunk with a high fever, fatigue, and extremely painful joints. No docs around so it was just me. When I got to NZ I went to see a Dr. as I was having trouble speaking loud and could only get out four or five words before running out of breath. She told me one of my vocal chords was paralyzed, most likely from the Dengue. I still have only one vocal chord that works but I have learned to live with a 'Clint Eastwood' voice." Captain Mikem
Q: WHAT ARE THE RISKS?
M O S Q U I T O H E A L T H A L E R T
Dengue Fever is the most common danger in the south pacific islands, but it’s not the only bioweapon mosquitoes offer. They can inject their victims with a huge variety of bacteria, viruses or parasites, causing misery to nearly 700 million people each year and killing over one million of them.
Mossie-borne diseases include malaria, dengue, yellow fever, filariasis, tularemia, dirofilariasis, encephalitis, Ross River fever, Zika fever, Keystone virus, Chikungunya virus, and 22 varieties of swine fever virus. Most of these diseases are hard to diagnose by yourself and even harder to cure. Even if you figure out what’s wrong with you or a crew member, it is unlikely you’ll just happen to have the correct medicine and equipment aboard to do anything about it. And none - I say again, NONE - of the prophylactics sold by big Pharma will protect you against even a small number of these monsters. Yes, you can get a vaccine for yellow fever, and even some (but not all) strains of malaria, but have you and everyone on your crew already been innoculated?
Even mossies not carrying a disease ghoul inside of them are a pain. Their high-pitched whining is remarkably annoying when drifting off to sleep. And after they suck your blood, the feeding site can swell up and itch like crazy. One mossie is a nuisance, but when there are thousands of them …. A few years ago, we sheltered from an approaching cyclone in a mangrove-lined river. At night our mosquito screens were a back-quivering mass of mosquitoes. Not just one annoying mossie got inside or bit us, not one. We foiled a major air strike of bio wheapons by a screen of precaution.
M O S Q U I T O
'My wife and I have cruised areas with malaria, yellow fever and dengue epidemics for over 40 years, and we have never had any mossie-borne diseases because my wife and I are much more intelligent than any mosquito... We don’t let them bite us."
It was a no-brainer to install mosquito screens on the hatches, portholes and vents of our cutter. The screens on the coach hatches, vents and portholes are in place all the time – except when we remove one to open or close a hatch. Every evening, at sundown, we insert the drop slide screens into the hatches in the forward and aft cabins. Always. No matter where we are. You can see how we installed our screens, so they are easy to use with this link: https://cruising-newcaledonia.com/flexiscreens-foryachts.html
Q: HOW TO PREVENT DANGERS FROM MOSQUITO DISEASES?
H E A L T H A L E R T
YOU CAN SEE HOW WE INSTALLED OUR SCREENS, SO THEY ARE EASY TO USE WITH THIS LINK: https://cruising-newcaledonia.com/flexiscreens-for-yachts.html
M O S Q U I T O H E A L T H A L E R T
You can also use mosquito nets to protect a bunk area, and there are even bigger ones to use as a “tent” over a cockpit. Mosquito nets can be untreated nets, Insecticide Treated Nets (ITNs) that need to be re-treated with insecticide every year, and Long Life Insecticide-treated Nets (LLINs) re-treated every 3 years. The nice thing about treated nets is that, of course, they kill mosquitoes or other bugs. The insecticide is Pyrethrum, now manufactured but originally from the crushed dried flowers of the daisy Chrysanthemum and safe to use if handled correctly. But…. Having a net over your bunk(s) isn’t going to keep the devils out of your salon where they will be lurking, waiting for you to get up, or maybe teasing you at night, breaking the sound barrier flocking around the .mosquito net. Plus, you need to put them up each evening. Having screens for your hatches and portholes is less expensive, more efficient, and easier to use. BUT you need to get them set up BEFORE you set sail. When we go ashore, we always carry mosquito repellant in our pack. If we see or hear a mosquito or suspect they may be a problem in the area. We put it on before leaving the yacht if we go ashore in the evening. I also wear socks, long pants and often long-sleeved shirts ashore in the evening or when trekking. Dengue virus mossies hunt for victims any time during the day, especially where they can find bare ankles in a shady spot – even right in the centre of town. Malaria mossies prowl in the evening, at midnight and dawn – except in forested areas where they snooze in the bushes and trees but are happy to wake up for a feed if disturbed. "If you don’t want to slather yourself with DEET, wear long pants, heavy socks, and a long-sleeved shirt and just use a small amount of repellant on exposed skin." Install mosquito screens so mossies can’t get inside the yacht, and wear mosquito repellant in mossiehazardous areas ashore. Avoid evening or dawn walks in island forests –or near airports or hospitals.
Don’t get bit. Problem solved.
M O S Q U I T O H E A L T H A L E R T
It’s so simple, but I was amazed to discover that practically none of the residences or yachts in Tonga, Fiji, New Caledonia, PNG, Australia or New Zealand have screens. They certainly have lots of mossies loaded with an assortment of bugs. I have no idea why so few people in the South Pacific don’t use screens. When I was a kid in upper state New York, everyone I knew had mosquito screens on their windows and doors, on camping tents, and on recreational vehicles. Most every yacht I’ve advised to install screens didn’t. I don’t know why, even in places like SE Queensland, Australia, where we encountered the biggest, nastiest sandflies and mossies on our planet. One bite from them, and you get huge welts that itch and burn for days. We knew one yacht that evil sand flies attacked in the Great Sandy Straits behind Fraser island. The lady of the yacht still had bruised welts 6 months later. And six months afterwards, they still didn’t have screens on their portholes and hatches... Bewildering.
How many yachts do you know with mosquito screens? What about your yacht?
WHAT TO DO IF YOU GOOF UP AND GET ONE OF THE DREADED MOSSIE DISEASES? Yes, well, you or your crew member could be in serious trouble very quickly. Do not delay. At the first sign of any of these diseases, get to the nearest hospital. If you can’t sail there, get a medical evac team on its way to you as soon as possible. You may have to relocate to an anchorage near an airport (if there is one). The problem is that many of the diseases could be mistaken for a bad flu (at first) or indigestion from something you or the crew member really should not have eaten ashore. If you know you are going to an area with any of the many diseases carried by mosquitos (i.e. They are currently having an epidemic of Dengue Fever or Malaria), make sure you know what the early symptoms are before you lark off over the horizon. Check the government health website – they alert their people to these dangers and their symptoms. You might wish to add some malaria treatment pills if you are cruising in a malaria zone. It’s easier and usually cheaper to get them from a pharmacist in the country you will be cruising in. But be warned; the mosquitos have become immune to the common malaria treatment pills, so ask a local doctor which one medication is most effective in their area. In Vanuatu, I was recommended to use Artesunate, but there are many other medications, and you need to consult with a local doctor for the best medication for you and your crew. There is no cure for Dengue. The best advice is to drink a lot of water and take painkillers.
Or don’t get bit by mosquitoes, and don’t worry about any of these diseases. Like I said, it’s a no-brainer.
A B O U T T H E A U T H O R
Richard and Frederique Chesher began cruising the Pacific aboard their Peterson 44 cutter in 1976. Richard is a PhD marine scientist, and Frederique is an artist and professional photographer. Together they created and publish the Rocket Cruising Guide to New Caledonia and the Rocket Cruising Guide to Vanuatu, widely praised as the best cruising guides in the world. Rocket Guides are programs for Windows and Mac computers (not Ipads or Android tablets). They are unlike any other kind of cruising guide you’ve ever used; extremely intuitive, fast and comprehensive. You’ll find critical information on staying healthy while cruising (including avoiding injuries from dangerous marine creatures – like sharks). Important conservation regulations, local custom requirements, repair services and supplies, accessing the Internet, weather, navigation aids and much more. With just two clicks, you can do a virtual visit to 220 anchorages in New Caledonia and 170 anchorages in Vanuatu, with 240 verified GPS routes in New Caledonia and 160 GPS routes in Vanuatu. The guides cover all of New Caledonia and Vanuatu and are updated at least 4 times a year. Every anchorage has a high definition, colour aerial image showing the anchorage area, surface or drone shots showing what it looks like on approach, what it looks like after you get there, plus above and below water (sometimes even spherical 360-degree images) of beaches, coral reefs, forests, waterfalls, and trails. You'll have everything you need to choose the places you and your crew will enjoy most, along with reliable sailing directions, exact GPS coordinates of the safest place to anchor, depths, bottom type, protection from wind and waves, hazards, VHF reception and times of the weather reports, mobile phone, Internet, Wi-Fi and TV reception, points of interest, treks and trails. Plus, important information on health hazards, social issues, where to get fuel, supplies or repairs, government and local restrictions, conservation laws, and more. You’ll also get the Rocket Travel Guides prepared for the tourism departments of New Caledonia and Vanuatu to train travel agents about the enormous range of tourism facilities and activities in both counties; accommodation, car rentals, shopping, tours, sights, beaches, all the things tourists need to know about visiting these holiday destinations. Rocket Guides have it all available in a couple of clicks– and you don’t need to be online.
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