Ahoy - April 2023 by Island Cruising & Down Under Rally

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A U S T R A L I A & T H E S O U T H P A C I F I C

"IT'S FREE TO ENJOY AHOY!"

APRIL 2023

Traditional sailing canoe Panaeati Island Louisiade Archipelago Image credit Alan Pascoe

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IN THE APRIL AHOY Members Prize Draw Winner

The Loss Of The Raindancer

Registering Your Tender In Australia

Meet The ENTIRE Fleet - GE Raly 23

Yachting World Vanuatu - TC Damage Update 18 Delivering Day For Girls Vanuatu

Lights For Vanuatu Project

Cruising Queensland Guide Announcement

Darwin To Ambon Sailing Event

Black Waste - The War Between Good & Evil

Living the Dream by Alan Pascoe

Cruising The Kimberley - The Horizontal Falls 59 Members Marketplace

Published by Down Under Rally Pty Ltd To submit an article or to enquire about advertising, contact John Hembrow Email: admin@downunderrally.com

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A U S T R A L I A & T H E S O U T H P A C I F I C

©Copyright 2023 Down Under Rally Pty Ltd AHOY Sailing News is published and distributed electronically via the world wide web. Original editorial content & advertisements in this newsletter are copyrighted and the exclusive property of Down Under Rally Pty Ltd. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without the written permission of the Down Under Rally Pty Ltd. The comments and views in this newsletter are not necessarily those of the Down Under Rally Pty Ltd.

Member Profile #531 Loc & Dee – s.v Keira

Enjoying the not sure what's going to happen next part! Ahoy! We are from Yungaburra, Far North Qld, and both recently retired (hopefully!!!). Loc has always sailed just for fun, Dee has always travelled, we both love the ocean and a challenge, and we still pinch ourselves to think we are actually doing it. We are passionate about sailing, exploring, self-reliance, fun and embracing the natural world. We bought Keira 3 1/2 years ago in Sydney, sailed her home and moved aboard 18 months ago. Our previous boat was a steel fishing boat we restored, furnished with a dipping lug and cruised Northern Qld into the gulf. Keira has a colourful history, and a fantastic free e-book (with 700+ photos) of her global circumnavigation as 'Suka' in '82-'86 is available at: rayjardine.com/adventures/1982-Suka/index.php We aim to cruise as long as we are able and are really enjoying the 'not sure what's going to happen next' part, Cheers, Loc and Dee. Dee is also a visual artist. Her acrylic paintings are inspired by the sea, boats and her travels with Loc aboard Keira. Please feel free to view her gallery at: www.beachwalkstudio.com.au

s.v Keira

Members Prize Draw Congratulations... Kim H - Member Number 499. You are this month's winner of the PredictWind Down Under Rally Members Prize Draw Each month the Down Under Rally draws the name of one of our members as the winner of the member's prize draw.

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The Loss Of The Raindancer South Pacific Ocean - March 2023

AHOY Sailing Newsletter 2023

Content & Images ©Rick Rodriguez

The Loss Of The Raindancer 'A lesson in preparedness'

Content & Images ©Rick Rodriguez On March 13, Rick Rodriguez and three friends were 13 days into what was expected to be a threeweek crossing from the Galápagos to French Polynesia aboard Raindancer a Kelly Petersen 44 when the worst happened. Below, in his own words, is Ricks's account of what happened, which he shares in the hope that all those who venture beyond the horizon are well prepared for any eventuality.

"We were sitting in the cockpit of Raindancer, enjoying some homemade Pizza that Bianca was making from a recipe one of her friends had given her. It reminded us of a day we had in the Galapagos before our departure. It was a beautiful sunset, and our crew and the crew of Southern Cross shared a memorable evening together, eating pizza and talking about how lucky we were to be sailing across the Pacific Ocean with friends and the journey that lay ahead of us.

The Crew Of The Raindancer AHOY Sailing Newsletter 2023

Rick, installing a new Hydrovane on Raindancer January 2023

The Loss Of The Raindancer

Content & Images ©Rick Rodriguez

Fast forward a month, and there we were, the 4 of us. Myself, Alana, Bianca, and Simon on a 3100 nautical mile passage to the Marquesas from the Galapagos, with about 1400nm left to go. We were cooking that tasty pizza; we had good winds, sunny skies and were sailing at around 6kts. The second pizza had just come out of the oven, and I was dipping a slice into some ranch dressing when it felt like we ran into a concrete wall. I heard a loud crashing noise, simultaneous with a metal clanking. I heard Alana yell, "we hit a whale" then I looked to port and saw a huge whale, and blood was gushing out of the side of it as it began swimming down.

I heard Alana yell, we hit a whale, then I looked to port and saw a huge whale, and blood was gushing out of the Content side & Images ©Rick Rodriguez of it as it began swimming down. I told everyone to check the bilges and went down myself to check for water and collision damage. Within 5 seconds, the high-water bilge alarm went off, I could see water rushing in from the stern of the boat. At that point, I knew the damage was very significant and that, most likely, we were going to lose the boat. The crew had begun gathering safety equipment, supplies, emergency gear, electronics, etc., and they did an extremely good job of it. I went to the back of the boat to search for the source of the water. At this point, maybe 30 seconds had gone by since impact, and while I was searching the aft bilges, rudder, and stuffing box areas, the water had already filled up above the floor. It was difficult to locate the source from the inside, with the water level so high already. I was nearly certain the boat was going down at a rapid rate. I made a last attempt to plug up water intrusion from the outside. On my way out, I helped bring out the Liferaft and grabbed and set off one of our EPIRBS, and made a VHF radio mayday call. I deployed the life raft, and it inflated as advertised.

The Crew Of The Raindancer

Rick Rodriguez

I then realized that the sails were still up and the boat was still moving forward, and it put a lot of tension on the painter line of the Winslow Liferaft, which had automatically deployed a sea anchor. Afraid the painter would break, Bianca and I quickly put the sails away. While this was happening, Simon asked me, "should we launch the dinghy?" I said absolutely. Simon and Alana were launching our 10.5ft. Apex dinghy that was sitting upright and inflated on the foredeck. AHOY Sailing Newsletter 2023

The Loss Of Of The The Loss Raindancer Raindancer

Content & Images ©Rick Rodriguez

After helping Simon and Alana launch the dinghy, I put on my mask and fins and jumped overboard with a tarp. I saw the damage instantly. There were multiple holes or "cracks". The biggest one being around the prop shaft. It seems part of the whale must have hit the shaft with a strong force and busted open the fibreglass around the shaft. It was a very awkward hole to try and plug with rags and a tarp. It had a stainless-steel shaft in the middle, and the holes around it were more like caves with broken pieces of fibreglass all around and inside it. In addition to this, I also noticed 2-3 full-length cracks, maybe an inch in diameter, along the base of the skeg where it meets the hull and about halfway down the skeg. I made attempts to shove a tarp in the hole (s), but it kept coming out. I tried to wrap the tarp around the damaged area consisting of the rudder, skeg, and prop shaft and tie it around itself, but the open ocean waves and swell made that difficult, and with a boat that was already 2/3 full of water at that point, I decided to forego my Content & Images efforts and focus on the safety and survival of the crew. ©Rick Rodriguez We started to load the dinghy up with as many supplies and emergency gear as possible. At this point, we could no longer fill up water jugs as the water level was above the sink. The toe rail was inches from the water. The girls were both in the dinghy waiting for Simon and I to join them. I paused for a moment and tried to think of anything else I could be forgetting or anything else I should do. I then took a moment to take in the scene of what was happening in a split second. I could feel my emotions wanting to rise to the foreground, but I quickly shoved them back down, and Simon and I stepped into the water just as the toe rail went under. I then swam to the Liferaft. When I got in it, I looked back and could see the last 10ft of the mast sinking down at an unbelievable speed. Our painter line, which is designed to break before being pulled under with the boat, was still attached to the boat. Alana noticed it and shouted to cut it ... luckily, I had a Leatherman knife in my pocket and cut the painter as it was coming under tension.

I could feel my emotions wanting to rise to the foreground, but I quickly shoved them back down, and Simon and I stepped into the water just as the toe rail went under... Rick & Alana in the tender tethered to the raft awaiting rescue

Rick Rodriguez and Simon Fischer in the life raft March 13, 2023 AHOY Sailing Newsletter 2023

The Loss Of Of The The Loss Raindancer Raindancer

Content & Images ©Rick Rodriguez

The boat and all our belongings were gone, out of sight, sinking to the bottom of one of the most remote parts of the ocean. 10,000ft down. We took a moment to breathe and then began organizing and taking inventory of the items that we had managed to secure. The sun began to set, and soon it was pitch dark, and we were floating right smack in the middle of the Pacific Ocean with a dinghy and a liferaft, hopeful that we would be rescued soon. Alana and I were in the dinghy, which was secured to the Liferaft by three lines, one with shock cord we had linked together from the tethers of our life vests. Flying fish kept jumping in the dinghy through the night, and the wind speed increased. A crazy moment floating in the ocean, looking up at the stars.

we were floating right smack in the middle of the Pacific Ocean with a dinghy and a liferaft, hopeful that we would be rescued soon Someone was always looking out for ships, and we were making a mayday call from our handheld radio every hour. At about 0500z on March 14th, Simon spotted the first lights. This was shortly followed by radio contact from the Sailing vessel Rolling Stones. We all screamed in relief when we heard the voice of Geoff (captain of Rolling Stones) over the radio. We were damn near rescued, and all we had to do now was safely transfer ourselves and our little belongings onto the Leopard 45 Catamaran. I set off a parachute flare and activated my personal AIS beacon to help them with our location. Once they approached, we all got into the dinghy as we felt it would be easier to make the transfer. We came alongside Rolling Stones and threw over two lines. They brought us in, and one by one, we all dove forward onto their sugar scoop transom, timing the waves with every Jump. We were rescued... "

The crews of the Raindancer and the Rolling Stones aboard Rolling Stones after being rescued AHOY Sailing Newsletter 2023

The Loss Of Of The The Loss Raindancer Raindancer

Content & Images ©Rick Rodriguez

I'm sad to have lost my boat. It was everything to me. It was more than just what I was doing, more than just my home with all my belongings, it was a part of who I am. But at the end of the day, the most important things, by far, were rescued. A huge thank you to the crew of Raindancer who made my job easy. I'm so proud of everyone for staying calm, gathering emergency equipment, and the way everything was handled—all the credit to them. Big thanks to my brother Roger; once I knew he was aware of the situation, I knew we would be ok. Big thanks to my Mum for dealing with the chaos on the home front and all the emergency phone calls from the coast guard. Huge thanks to Tommy Joyce from Southern Cross and my good friend Vinny Mattiola. They were in contact with rescue boats giving them accurate information and advice. Without them, the rescue would not have gone so swiftly and smoothly. A huge thanks to the entire sailing community for coming together to aid in our rescue. The one thing I've always loved about sailing is the people. We are truly a special group of people. I'm thankful to be a part of such a supportive community. A big thanks to the Starlink community. Without Starlink, our rescue wouldn't have gone so swiftly and smoothly. Technology saved our lives. Perhaps the biggest thanks to our rescuers and Captain Geoff of Sailing Vessel Rolling Stone for going out of their way to save us, taking 4 strangers in on their home and sailing the rest of the way together to French Polynesia. It's true, I'm sad to have lost my boat. It was everything to me. It was more than just what I was doing, more than just my home with all my belongings, it was a part of who I am. It stings about as much as losing any inanimate object can sting. But at the end of the day, the most important things, by far, were rescued. We all have a lot to think about.

Rick Rodriguez www.distantseas.com

"Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass it is about learning to dance in the rain" Vivian Greene

AHOY Sailing Newsletter 2023

LEARN SKILLS GAIN CONFIDENCE BE PREPARED

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Tender Moments...

DO YOU NEED TO REGISTER YOUR TENDER AS AN INDEPENDENT VESSEL ? In Australia, in broad terms, a tender is only intended to be used as a conveyance method over a short distance from ship to shore. It is not intended to be used as a means to go exploring, fishing or snorkelling or any other activities. In most states, you can get fined for using your tender for fishing or any activity note related to ship-to-shore conveyance. Some states have a strict requirement that “any” boat with an engine has to be registered, regardless of the size of the engine. This includes outboards. States that allow tenders not to be registered severely limit the distance that the tender is able to operate away from the principal vessel. Most people use their tender for activities outside of “ship to shore “ conveyance. This percentage increases as the tender gets bigger with the capability to go further and to do more sea activities. This makes for a strong case to register your tender independently of the principal vessel. With an independent registration, you are not limited and able to go snorkelling or whatever. An important consideration is insurance. The tender is included as ship’s equipment and not independently registered. If you use the tender outside of “ship-to-shore operations” then liability issues arise. There are cases where a tender has been used for water skiing, and an incident occurred. The insurance company did not cover the claims, and the person driving became personally liable. Another consideration is breaking the law. In some states, people have been fined for fishing off the tender or the tender being beyond the limit from the principal vessel. There is careful consideration needed, especially when deciding NOT to register a tender. The cost of registration is small compared to the potential risk most people take whether it is from an insurance or legal perspective. In brief, the situation in Australia is as follows: QLD – Tenders are restricted to within 2 nautical miles of the mother ship NSW – Tenders are restricted to within 400 meters of the mother ship NT – There are no requirements for the registration of tenders Victoria – Tenders are restricted to within 300 meters of the mother ship SA – All boats with engines need to be registered. TAS – Tenders are restricted to within 400 meters of the mother shop

THE COST OF REGISTERING A TENDER IS RELATIVELY MINOR. IS IT NOT SAFER TO REGISTER AND HAVE PEACE OF MIND?

The Go East Rally will depart the Gold Coast in May for New Caledonia. Listed below and pictured from left to right and top to bottom on the next page are the 20 vessels that will be joining us. Bijoux - Fountain Pajot Salina 48 - Western Australia Bliss - Balance 526 - Kong Kong Bombora - Waller 1200 - Queensland Breeze II -Moody 64 - Hobart Cavallino III - Hampton 680 - Queensland Desire - Adams 40 - Queensland

The Go East Rally is a 'destination rally' meaning that once participants arrive in New Caledonia, it is up to them to decide how long they stay, whether they would like to sail onwards to Vanuatu and when and from where they depart for the return voyage to Australia. For those who are keen to continue the adventure in company, there is the option of joining our NC2V Rally from New Caledonia to Vanuatu and our V2A Rally for the return voyage back to Australia from Vanuatu. In the past, some participants have chosen to sail south to New Zealand with the Go South Rally and then cruise Tonga & Fiji with our mates from Island Cruising NZ the following year. Or maybe you would like to spend cyclone season in the Solomon Islands like some of our other past participants? The choice is yours, and the Down Under Rally can assist with information to help you make an informed decision!

Double Play - Leopard 46 - Queensland Hideway - Leopard 44 - Queensland Iria - Condor Trimaran 12.5 Queensland LaiLai Lady - Beneteau Oceanis 45 - Queensland Levitha - Fountain Pajot Lavezzi 40 - Queensland Mahalo V - Seawind 1200 - Queensland Me & Mrs Jones - Beneteau Oceanis 48 - Victoria mySerenity - Lagoon L400 - Queensland Nautilus II - Lagoon 450S - Queensland Pneuma - Schionning Cosmos - Queensland Shelby - Lightwave 45 - Tasmania Vamp - Van de Stadt 65 - Queensland Vaquita - Bruce Roberts 44 - Queensland Zero - Schionning 18.5 - Queensland

2023 REGISTRATIONS ARE NOW CLOSED JOIN US IN 2024 downunderrally.com/go-east-rally

A MESSAGE FROM YACHTING WORLD VANUATU

Thank you all for your well wishes after the devastating hit we took from TC Judy and Kevin recently. Whilst damage was sustained to a number of our buildings and roofs, as well as trees down etc., our wonderful staff have all chipped in, and we were able to reopen the Waterfront Bar and Grill, which is very good news! Work is continuing at a frenetic pace to get Yachting World Marina up and running again. Whilst our old fuel pump should be functioning by the end of this week, we have a brand new one arriving in April. Our sea wall is fully operational (we have a few yachts stationed comfortably on our sea wall right now), and mooring check diving will be re-commencing next Monday in the hope of having all our moorings reinstated by the beginning of April.

WE ARE POSTING UPDATES ABOUT OUR PROGRESS ON OUR FACEBOOK PAGES: Yachting World Vanuatu Waterfront Bar and Grill Port Vila We, as well as the Government authorities and resorts here, are all moving quickly to ensure Port Vila is cleaned up and repaired in time for the tourist season to begin at Easter.

Rest assured that all will be in order in time for the arrival of cruising yachts and our first rally in May. We are so looking forward to welcoming you all back in 2023. See you soon 🌺🌴

DOWN UNDER RALLY DELIVERING DAYS FOR GIRLS TO VANUATU In the week leading up to the 2023 Go East Rally departure for New Caledonia, Days For Girls Queensland representatives will meet with our rally participants who plan to sail on to Vanuatu with our NC2V Rally. The representatives from DfG Australia will provide guidance on how to deliver and distribute Days For Girls kits to girls and women in Vanuatu.

LEARN MORE HERE downunderrally.com/days-for-girls

https://www.vanu atu.travel/en/lokol /nawimbamagazine

For the people of Vanuatu, particularly those in the more remote communities, having solar lighting means they have reliable, environmentally friendly & safe lighting as opposed to lights that require fuel and or batteries that need to be replaced frequently.

Lights For Vanuatu

UPDATE - 69 LIGHTS DONATED! We are close to reaching our goal of providing at least 100 portable personal solar lights to the people of the remote Vanuatu island communities when we visit in August 2023 with the NC2V Rally.

Donate a light for just $25.99 and we will deliver it! www.downunderrally.com/lights-for-vanuatu

The Rocket Cruising and Travel Guides offer you the perfect way to experience Vanuatu, so when you arrive for the first time, it will be like you’ve been there before. See our Cruising Vanuatu presentation Video on the Rocket Guide Youtube Channel below.

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CRUISE IN COMPANY LEARN MORE

Submit Your Expression of Interest for 2024 Now LEARN MORE

Departs New Caledonia in August LEARN MORE

Departs Fiji in August

CRUISE IN COMPANY LEARN MORE

Departs Fiji in September LEARN MORE

Arrive In Australia Between September & November Sailing with The Down Under Rally provides our rally particpants with access to the knowledge and the relationships we have gained over many years of crusing in the SW Pacific & Australia. In addition our rally participants have the opportunity to visit destinations that may otherwise not be an option. And we have plenty of fun in the process!

PRINT VERSION CRUISING THE QUEENSLAND COAST NOW AVAILIBLE I have been really happy with the Australian cruising community's reaction to Cruising the Queensland Coast since I first released it as an eBook in November 2021. I included all of the things I wanted in a guide, which made it a big undertaking. I wanted it to be connected to all the online information sources you need and I wanted detailed and exact information on anchorages, including the location of reef edges and bommies. As an eBook, the guide is connected with live links. Simply clicking on a link takes you there, and for exactness, you click on an anchorage and it imports it into your navigation software be it Navionics or C-Map and you can also save it to your plotter. A lot of people, John Hembrow included, really liked this new approach. Since I first published the eBook there have been constant requests for a print version. With the release of the second edition at the end of 2022 and the maturing of the book, I thought it was a good time to do a print version. As with the eBook, the presence of a ⎈ icon indicates there is a downloadable navigation file available. The book comes with a downloadable archive of all GPX anchorages, public moorings, marinas, public pontoons and passages. Simply find the file matching the name in the archive to use. I must admit it is nice to have the book open on your lap and be able to flick through it. The print version is available from many chandleries and also directly from me.

Order Your Print Version here: curlewescape.com.au/book/cruising-the-queensland-coast-book.html

Second Edition

EXCLUSIVE OFFER FOR DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS. Email: book@gregluck.com with your Down Under Rally Member # to receive a

20% discount code for use on Google Play Books when purchasing the guide.

SAILMAKING EVOLVED Evolution Sails Australia has been the local sail loft of choice supporting local sailors and cruisers visiting the Gold Coast for more than 30 years. Located centrally on the Gold Coast in Queensland, Evolution Sails provide a full design, manufacture and service loft for the East Coast of Queensland. Our experienced sailmakers specialise in cruising and racing sails for yachts, catamarans, sports boats and dinghies. Evolution Sails Gold Coast are fully qualified sailmakers with over 100 combined years of sailing and racing experience making and repairing your high-tech racing or cruising sails, boom bags and covers. Repairs and re-cuts are done promptly and efficiently with a fast turnaround time. Complimenting our full range of services are Boombag stack-packs, boom covers, trampolines, rope and chandlery.

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SOUTHERN QUEENSLAND CRUISING YACHT HAVEN Located ON Brisbane's Moreton Bay, Scarborough Marina provides visiting yachts with easy access to the many anchorages and the islands of Moreton Bay, including Moreton Island and the Tangalooma Wrecks. The City of Brisbane and the Brisbane international airport are only 40mins away, with Public Transport right at our door. The suburb of Scarborough is home to families and retirees who form part of the safe & friendly community. With the convenience of waterfront Cafes, Clubs & Restaurants plus major shopping centres and medical services nearby and our popular weekend farmers & craft markets, Scarborough really is a home away from home!

Recognised by the international cruising community as the preferred destination when visiting the Brisbane Region. Safe Enclosed Harbour Protected from swell & unaffected by flooding. Clean, Modern & Well Maintained Facilities Modern Cruisers Lounge with TV and free WIFI Electronic gated Access, with 24 Hour CCTV Monitoring 24 Hour Fuel Wharf Full-Service Boatyard with 35 Tonne Travelift On-Site Chandlery

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DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS OFFER $400 OFF THE RETAIL PRICE OF NEW RAINMAN WATERMAKER SYSTEMS. MORE INFO AT: www.downunderrally.com/watermakers

What is an Adventure? “Any activity with an unknown outcome”.

Don McIntyre

If you are lucky as your life voyage evolves, you will meet some people you admire along the way, and maybe those same people will inspire you to do what you desire but are unsure if you should or could. For me, Don McIntyre is one of those people. I met Don a little over ten years ago in Fiji. At the time, Don`s boat ICE, a 50-foot Motor Sailor, was on the hard in Vuda Point Marina, and despite him not being a drinker, Don regularly joined the yachties at the Island Bar for sundowners.

I had no idea I was in the presence of a legend. Don was just like any other yachty, and he made no attempt to impress with what I now know to be a life filled with adventure and achievement. For that matter, it would be quite some time before Don mentioned he had made a sailing documentary and that he thought I might enjoy watching it. That documentary was called Knockdown, the story of his time as a competitor in the 1990/91 BOC around the world. Soon afterwards, I watched a second Don McIntyre documentary, Two Below Zero Together Alone A Year in Antarctica. It was then I realised Don is the living definition of the word adventure. Despite following Don's many adventures over the years and occasionally getting in touch, It was not until this year that I learned that without Don McIntyre, the now well-known story (thanks to NetFlix) of Jessica Watson's achievements as the youngest person to sail solo, nonstop around the world, at age 16 would likely have never been told. It was Don who gave Jessica her boat, Pink Lady

There are many, many others who have been the beneficiaries of the kind, supportive & generous nature of Don McIntyre, as you will discover for yourself if you visit the about Don page of the McIntyre Adventures website and I would just like to say Good Onya Don!

Discounts for Down Under Rally Members

Shore Based Courses Hands On Sail Training Your Boat Or Ours

RYA & YACHTING AUSTRALIA ACCREDITED ABOUT SUNSHINE SAILING AUSTRALIA Sunshine Sailing Australia's sailing school is recognised as one of Australia’s leading sail training and experience providers. With sailing lessons taught in the class room and on the waters around Mooloolaba, Gold Coast, Whitsundays Islands, Lord Howe Island and Brisbane.

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Why Two Apps? Between the PredictWind and Offshore Apps, we have you covered with worldleading forecasts and marine tools no matter where you are in the world. But why the need for two apps? In a nutshell, the PredictWind App is for coastal applications with access to mobile data coverage and the Offshore App is optimised for satellite connections. Watch the video below to learn more about each app so that you can decide which on is the right fit for you.

NOTICE OF SAILING EVENT

AUSTRALIA TO INDONESIA THREE DIVISIONS*

*Yachts who wish to participate under Rally conditions may enter DIV 2 or 3 and advise race officials of their intention to motor.

The Dinah Beach Cruising Yacht Association is thrilled to be running the annual Spice Islands Darwin Ambon Yacht Race in August 2023. The Spice Islands Darwin Ambon Yacht Race is a 630nm international sailing classic, starting at Stokes Hill Wharf, Darwin and finishing in Ambon, Indonesia. ALL TYPES OF SAILORS AND SAILING BOATS ARE WELCOME.

NOTICE OF SAILING EVENT The southeast trade winds dominate the weather and can provide wonderful reaching conditions through the tropical waters. The fastest yachts take just over two days, whilst the more relaxed sailors can take up to six days to get to the race finish at the small village of Amahusu. The people of Ambon provide a warm welcome to everyone involved in the race and make sure to turn on the hospitality during the race week. The locals in Amahusu will be on hand to help out with information and introductions whenever you need anything, the warmth and friendliness of the people add so much to what already is a fantastic race. And there are plenty of opportunities to share time together. Whether it be through the visit to a local school, the games organised between the locals and the crews, or the injection of money into the local economy, you leave Ambon feeling like your presence there, and the race itself makes a real difference to people’s lives. Ambon is an ideal place to further explore the cruising pleasures of South East Asia, or you can enjoy a leisurely island-hopping cruise back to Darwin. The race starts in Darwin on Saturday, August 5, and the week before brings plenty of opportunity to experience some of the delights of this vibrant capital city. Border Force and Immigration officials will be on hand at the start and finish to facilitate the exit and entry formalities. With loads of facilities available for yachties, be sure to factor in some time to enjoy the sights of Darwin. Darwin Harbour is more than three times the size of Sydney Harbour, and the spectacular dry season weather and sunsets are the perfect backdrop to your anchorage or marina berth as you prepare for the race. The race organiser, Dinah Beach Cruising Yacht Association (DBCYA), is situated on the east side of the peninsular and offers a range of DIY facilities, including careening poles and a hardstand. It's also a great social hub with a licenced bar, food and free live entertainment three nights per week. It's a great place to catch up with fellow sailors and share some stories, tips and tricks over a cold drink or two.

To find out more about the race and the club, head to www.dbcya.com.au/darwin-to-ambon or email secretary@dbcya.com.au

Departing Australia By Yacht?

When an Australian registered & tax paid small craft departs Australia for an overseas port, it is considered to have been exported, and an export declaration is required. On departure, the Australian Border Force issues a certificate of clearance that includes the port overseas to which the craft is departing. In order to obtain a certificate of outward clearance, an export declaration number must be provided. A certificate of clearance will not be issued prior to the provision of a confirmed EDN. There is no mandatory requirement for a customs broker to undertake the clearance formalities however it is generally recommended.

Learn More Here

AUSTRALIAN VESSELS RETURNING TO AUSTRALIA. If your vessel has departed from Australia, you will be required to re-import your vessel when you return to Australia You can clarify this yourself with the Australian Border Force by emailing the Bundaberg Office of the ABF using the following email address. bundaberg@abf.gov.au. If the vessel was tax paid when it left Australia, you should not have to pay import duty or GST again; however, only the ABF can confirm this. If the ABF confirms this is the case, they will likely inform you that you will need to complete some paperwork on arrival to re-import the vessel and that they strongly recommend you employ a customs agent to assist with the completion and lodgement of the associated paperwork.

The Down Under Rally has a long-standing relationship with DAZMAC, who are customs brokers. The Down Under Rally recommends contacting DAZMAC to get a quote from them to act as your agent should you be required to import or re-import a vessel. You can make an obligation-free enquiry with Dazmac via the following page of the Down Under Rally website: www.downunderrally.com/agents. Discounts for Down Under Rally Members.

22 NEW 20M & 24M BERTHS WITH THE T-HEAD HAVING THE ABILITY TO BERTH VESSELS UP TO 45M ARE NOW COMPLETE.

Bundaberg Port Marina has been operating at the Bundaberg Port for the past 25 years and is well respected in the Australian and International boating community. The easy, deep-water, all-weather entrance that the Port of Bundaberg offers to visitors, day, or night, is one of the many factors that has contributed to an influx of vessels visiting the Coral Coast each year.

Phone: +61 (0)741 595 166 E: info@bundabergportmarina.com.au W: bundabergportmarina.com.au

JOIN US FOR THE 2023 GO WEST RALLY. SUBMIT AN OBLIGATION-FREE EXPRESSION OF INTEREST AT:

downunderrally.com/about-go-west-rally

THE PEOPLE YOU MEET One of the benefits of being actively involved with the cruising community is that, over the years, as the organisers of the Down Under Rally, we have met a lot of cruisers, many of whom hail from ports all over the world. Last year we met Dan & Jilly from the USA when they arrived in Bundaberg as participants in the Go West Rally aboard Dazzler. As often happens, we had been communicating electronically with Dan & Jilly long before we actually met face-to-face. It was a reference to 'Grape Ape' in one of their emails that sparked my curiosity and led me to their website DazzlersWatch. I remember that as a child, I enjoyed watching a character called Grape Ape in a cartoon...hmmm could this be that Grape Ape? It turns out that Grape Ape is the 3rd Crew Member aboard Dazzler. Not unlike the fabled 'Murphy' whose antics are well known, on Dazzler, it is Grape Ape who is responsible for all those unexplainable events that happen aboard at the worst possible time, and as such, often features in their blog.

That blog is what lead me to write this article. Dan & Jilly have created an entertaining and informative account of their adventures and experiences sailing from the USA to Australia. Like many of us, an interest in sailing came later in life for Dan. Jilly, however, had a recreational boating background. The rest, as they say, is history. Dan became Captain Dan & a few years later, Jilly joined him aboard Dazzler as the 'best mate'. A keen sense of adventure and a commitment to preparedness and safety served them well in the years that followed as they began the adventure of a lifetime sailing halfway around the world. For those of you reading this that are planning an adventure of your own, you might like to check out their website DazzlersWatch, as there is a ton of really useful information that is also pretty entertaining to read, including several posts about their time in Fiji & Vanuatu and their experoance sailing to & arriving Australia. www.DazzlersWatch.com

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Black Waste

By David Tanner

The War between Good & Evil. If you imagine your black tank as a fish tank in your lounge room, then you are on the right path to understanding the right and wrong ways to look after waste on your boat and do your bit for the environment. The cardinal rule is that if you put anything in your black tank, then you need to ask, if I put that same thing in the fish tank, would the fish live or die? By David Tanner If the answer is that the fish are dead, then you have no cause to complain about the smell. There are two types of bacteria at play here – Aerobic with carbon dioxide/water as a by-product and anaerobic with Hydrogen sulphide/methane gas as a by-product. The goal is to have a black tank full of aerobic bacteria (let's call them the fish) and not anaerobic ones. Unfortunately, we are encouraged to do things and put things into black tanks that and not always in the best interests of good tank ecology. The simplest way to understand this is if you have purchased a product from a supermarket for cleaning your toilet, then this is the start of your problem. Tank management chemicals are largely part of the problem also, although there are some that seek to promote the growth of good bacteria, but in the main, most are masking agents and a waste of money. The problem with store-bought cleaning agents is that they are either high in alkaline of high in chlorine – both enemies of aerobic bacteria. SO, WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO MANAGE YOUR BLACK TANK? Ensure that your tank has good ventilation. I subscribe to the view that there is no need to have a carbon filter on a well-managed tank. Having a good vent is essential, two is even better as encouraging oxygen in your black tank by what even means is important to the health of your black tank. From new or a rebirth of your tank (thorough rinse), flush half a kilo of brown sugar down your toilet. Brown sugar is food for aerobic bacteria; call it a starter culture. In the war between good and evil, making sure that aerobic bacteria first ensure that the bad guys (anaerobic) don’t get a look in. Every time you empty your tank, drop in some sugar. Just how much is always a difficult question as tank size is variable, but keep it up, and over time you will get a handle on just what you need.

WHAT NOT TO DO... Vent filters can block if they get moisture on them. They also don’t allow for much oxygen to enter the tank. I have seen blocked vent filters where Hydrogen sulphide gas under pressure is bubbling back through the toilet. Hydrogen sulphide gas is heavier than air gas which is extremely dangerous. Methane is also produced and is equally something you do not want entering the cabin of your vessel. Never use cleaning agents, chlorine, oil or anything else in your tank; simple soap and water are all you need to clean with. SUMMARY Most complaints I hear regarding toilet systems and tanks are smell related, and my first answer to that is to say that, most likely, you are not managing your black waste correctly. Hydrogen sulphide gas is rotten egg gas and the main by-product of black waste poorly managed on a boat. Feed your fish tank and follow the above simple rules, and you will not have smell issues on your vessel.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR David Tanner, General Manager of Stella Marine, is an old guy that has spent his entire working life and possibly most of his childhood in the marine industry. In these past 30 years, he has been involved with the design and management of marine waste systems in vessels, both commercial and private. The advice above is not meant to be a textbook, although one could surely be written. The brief points above are real-world observations from years of experience, not from a PhD in science.

Stella has vast experience in servicing and installing marine toilets as well as sewage treatment systems, including MARPOL-approved units. From providing a complete specification for your Superyacht to getting your toilet working on your day boat, book with the team at Stella for the right experience and right advice.

Contact Us Here: stellamarine.com.au/contact Or Learn More at: stellamarine.com.au/engineering/marine-toilets-sewage-service

ROCNA PROVES ITSELF ONCE AGAIN I was recently introduced to Peter Smith (PeterSmith.net.nz) by Rocna Anchors Australia. Peter is the designer of the Rocna Anchor range and a true adventure sailor. Anyway, I took a look at his Facebook feed and came across a post by @Seaport Supply Cape Town from a few years back. "Long-time customer and friend Keith Wetmore sent us these pictures. He was unable to bring his yacht Boaz safely into Gordons Bay Harbor in gale force South Easterly winds and had to anchor out in the bay for two days until the wind died down. Boaz is a 35-ton steel hull motor sailor, and Keith said that they played cards in the saloon quite comfortably during this time. He was amazed that the anchor never let go, especially with the way the boat was snubbing heavily at the end of each arc."

Keith said that they played cards in the saloon quite comfortably during this time.

Facebook: @Seaport Supply Cape Town Instagram: @seaport_supply_cpt Photo credit: Skipper and owner of SV Boaz – Keith Wetmore. Facebook: @Rocna Anchors Australia

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Living The Dream... Twin Lagoons Calamian Archipelago Palawan, Philippines

By Alan Pascoe

Living The Dream... By Alan Pascoe After some 130,000nm and living aboard Screensaver for 15 years, we have experienced everything from some of the world's best cruising along with the good, the bad and the ugly. Our typically cursing ground is Australia to New Caledonia through to the Northern tip of the Philippines and west as far as the Andaman Islands, which belongs to India and everything in between. For those who are interested in our past, current, & future adventures, please visit our website: www.screensaver49.wordpress.com The article below about our trip from the Philippines to Sydney opens up a new reality that is seldom told, and indeed, one part of it we hope is never to be repeated. The Philippines is not a traditional cruising ground for many. Having spent some four-plus years there, it has much to offer, including thousands of anchorages and islands, a western cultural slant in the background brought about by the US historical involvement and some of the best sailing in this part of the globe while retaining its own integrated culture. But as our maximum visitor visa came to an end and the Covid risk diminished slightly, it was sadly time to leave.

Living The Dream... By Alan Pascoe There are generally two reasons cruisers don’t go to the Philippines. 1. Typhoons 2. Concerns of safety or kidnapping. Typhoons in the Philippines are initially named by the Japan Met office however, the rating or classification varies because some countries use sustained winds over a 1-minute period while others might go to 10 minutes, hence why for example, a Cat 1 in Australia is typically worse than in the Philippines. Then there is the gust rating which could be 3 minutes or 3 seconds like in Australia, plus the height at which it is measured. But effectively, anything that has form (i.e. runs in a circle) and meets the averages above and is above gale force (i.e. 34 knots) is the beginning of a typhoon rating. So, as I sit in Lake Macquarie in 38-41 knots, this could be classed as a typhoon if it had circular motion, yet it has happened twice in the two months we have been back here. As for the safety aspect, well as this cruiser writes this, he wonders about the Perth Lady walking her baby who got mugged, or the teenagers charged, or the shootings, and in my particular firsthand experience on one of the top Marinas in Sydney where the boat next door got firebombed, really is the Philippines riskier? No, it's not! Sailing down the East coast of the Philippines is like day sailing down the East Coast of Australia. As you jump off the end of the Philippines you enter Indonesia.

Living The Dream... By Alan Pascoe Indonesia, for many cruisers is a love-hate relationship, but it is a cyclone/typhoon-free zone and for this cruiser has one of the world's top spots, from a typology viewpoint, Rja-Ampat.

Living The Dream... By Alan Pascoe The diving is quite impressive, and the scenery is right up there with some of the top spots in the world. What’s more special for us is it’s not overrun with tourists, partly because it’s a little challenging to get there without your own boat and you must be well stocked.

The water here is cleaner than in any other part of Indonesia, the scenery is better, and you can enjoy a quiet bay often solely on your own, or you might be able to find another cruiser to enjoy sundowners on the beach with if you go looking.

As you cross the border between Indonesia and enter Papua New Guinea (PNG), the coastline continues, and you wouldn’t know. But the subculture does change, perhaps due to nearly 30 years of difference in the independence and the political administration challenges.

Living The Dream... By Alan Pascoe

Papua New Guinea, Is arguably one of the last frontiers and, as such, has some of the remotest places, some of the oldest traditions still being used, the least technologically advanced, some of the nicest un-spoilt people & places, along with risks of a wild frontier. Having been to PNG three times before, this trip would take us straight down the east coast of PNG, through Louisiade’s and onto Australia.

Traditional open-air markets, common throughout Asia and the Pacific, are your main food source. The more remote Islands generally retain a welcoming and inquisitive culture ruled locally where everyone knows everyone. The turmoil of towns is not so prevalent, which is one reason we chose to keep away from mainland PNG as much as possible. But as mentioned, PNG is one of the last frontiers; one must remember this fact: You are on your own, in their world, and you are considered wealthy.

Living The Dream... By Alan Pascoe

As a visitor in these remote places, you are often treated as special and invited into their homes and to their way of life, sharing whatever they have to offer. They will teach you their traditions with pride and, on several occasions, we had dinner and food prepared just for us. In some cases, they show just as much interest in what, how & why we do what we do and are keen to hear our stories. If you think you're going to sit quietly in some exotic or faraway land sipping your G&T with white sand and palm trees, this is unlikely to happen. You will likely find that many canoes will be coming to trade or perhaps even just to have a look. There is no marina hoping either, so you are in a new faraway land, where fishing, free diving and afternoon naps are a way of life.

With any frontier-type location, it can all go wrong, and it did. Here is what happened... We arrived in the middle of a squall and virtually anchored unseen, with the obligatory canoes coming out a bit later. All seemed normal, with one banana boat turning up. One large guy, who was said to be on the tourism council, and another well-built local, who was said to be the Police (with next to no English). After some discussion with the Tourism guy, he asked on behalf of the Police if he could stay on board with us, saying he didn't think it was safe here. I had no way of knowing really who either of them was. Neither had any cards or ID. I asked him if he thought we should leave now, and he said no, and they said they would come back and help us with our shopping. So, given the uncertainty of his position and the Police, we elected to stay, do our last shop via them and leave, but neither of the two guys in the banana boat returned or were ever seen again. My research had suggested most of the violence was on mainland PNG, and as far as New Britain was concerned, it was up the eastern end near towns back in 2004. Yanina had been to shore and found a very helpful local lady who showed her around and helped, in the end, finding a missionary couple who had lived here for some years. I typically try to maintain a low profile while ensuring to be polite. However, it's not so easy if you're a blond woman (extrovert) in a place like this and get dragged off to church trying to find things. In the end, the missionary couple were very helpful in bringing us some diesel, LPG, vegetable, eggs, cheese etc., and we spent a great afternoon together on Screensaver, planning to leave the next morning. We asked them about our safety and talked about different places to anchor. We were encouraged to anchor over the other side and also up a little V cut out. I liked the cutout, but it just didn't have the swing room. Moving over the other side, 300m seemed insignificant. Earlier in the day, I remember a couple of bangs or cracks and wondering at the time if this was a gun or what. We have been told that after the war, many guns were buried on Good Enough Island in oil or fuel back in wartime, and these have recently been found and sold. Whether this is true or not, I have yet to learn.

Living The Dream... By Alan Pascoe Sometime around midnight, our alarm went off, indicating movement, inside, I reached over to see if Yanina had inadvertently trigged it, and in that instant, I knew we had been boarded. I reached for the machete placed beside the bed and the torch, and within those few seconds, the first guy was inside and charging at me with what looked like a locally made gun, and the second guy was right behind him. The look on this guy’s face was terrifying, and I will never forget it as he charged. I swung the machete as hard as I could, knocking the gun out of his hands. From there, we crashed around inside the boat fighting, him holding on to the blade and launching punches’ at my face causing the loss of a few more teeth, a black eye and a head butt I cut my lip all the way through as I was trying to get another swing with the manchette. In the meantime, a second guy is beating me over the head and on the back with something heavy and sharp, while a third has Yanina cornered after striking her arm and forcing the collection of mobile phones (4) my fake cash wallet loaded with expired cards and believe or not an SD card which had pictures on it from before Madang until here. Had I known there were four of them and that’s what they wanted, I have thought (after the event) perhaps I should have done nothing and wondered where that would have finished up. I would have just let them have the phones and cash, but seeing only one and a gun pointed at me, rightly or wrongly, I reacted the way I did. I know now also that if I had a gun, I could and would have used it without any more hesitation than I had in the initial charge, something I was unsure about before. When I have considered arms before, many have said its one thing to have one and it will escalate things, its another thing to be first to use it (which you need to be because if your second, your dead) Eventually, I was pinned down, bleeding badly from my head and shoulder and hands with many other cuts.

Living The Dream... By Alan Pascoe I thought I must have passed out from this point because I do not remember what happened from here up until Screensaver's engine was started by Yanina, and I was now in the cockpit with no idea how I got there. Yanina tells me I did not pass out I was always responsive, so I guess the trauma has blocked these memories. I remembered the Missionary guys had a VHF and used it to chat with another friend, in the vain hope that it was on, I called them, and anyone else who would possibly answer, but all was quiet. I pondered triggering the EPIRB, but I had my doubts as to how much and from where any help would come, and I was confident it wouldn’t come quickly. I managed to notify my family via HF Sailmail, which was our only form of communication, and they got in contact with the Department of Foreign Affairs, who eventually offered to help us get to Moresby or out somehow and provide some security. After tossing things around in my head, I figured that apart from stitches, the most useful medical help would be a CT scan. Initial thoughts and later confirmation were that this could only come from Port Moresby, and getting there, dealing with security if I left, and Yanina’s wellbeing etc., in my absence were all problematic. So we head for Trobriand Islands. Over the next 24 hours, I guess as the adrenaline dropped away, I lost all my strength, and the pain started to creep in. Yanina is physically recovered, although she will be left with a scar on her arm that will take some time to fade. Emotionally the trauma still haunts her at night with any odd noise and the boat is locked up tight.

As weeks pass, my wounds are healing, my dizzy spells or vertigo is slowly abating, my strength is slowly returning to my arms, and the flashing in the corner of my eyes is also slowly reducing. Given the loss of some teeth and a few scars, I now fit in & look more like a local. Emotionally a lot of soul-searching has gone on, a lot of questions remain, and I am hopeful a change in country will help put some of it behind me.

Living The Dream... By Alan Pascoe The Louisiade Archipelago, however, are still considered safe, and there are a number of people who go there each year and have done so for many years, both before, during and after the Lousiades Rally that used to go there from Australia. We spent some time there in recovery mode, meeting some very nice people.

Living The Dream... By Alan Pascoe

LESSONS LEARNED: Risk assessment: Clearly, given what has happened, the route I chose was a bad decision on my behalf. There are aspects in all cultures that can tend to stand apart, in this instance, they are loosely called rascals. We all assess our risks in different ways, and what we do can sometimes result in the risk materializing, be they small or large, as in our case. I think the level of violence we experienced in this area is more commonly associated with the mainland but is perhaps creeping further afield. So I would now classify mainland risk to include the mainlands of New Britain, New Ireland and Bougainville. The Piracy attacks shown on the likes of ICC are 99% commercial and are of little consequence to the cruiser. Google and Noonsite are your best sources, followed by other cruisers who have actually been where you’re planning to go. Alerting/Early Warning: Being mindful of where you are and having some sort of alarm system that picks up intruders as early as possible can also be helpful. Personal Protection: We had Mace Spray, and in the confined and in close proximately, this would have been a better choice. For an approaching boat, we have 100m of nylon floating rope, and the plan was to feed that out the back to try and get it caught in their propellor if we were ever concerned about an approaching boat. Some years ago, when I was looking at transiting the Suez Canal, I paid a professional armed mercenary type (X special forces) to advise me regarding carrying a gun which was not something I condoned. In short, his advice was that pulling a gun or showing it would escalate things, and you must be the first to shoot, not second, not hesitate. Back then, I assumed I would hesitate, but I know now that when faced with potential death and I struck with the machete, there was no hesitation, and I wasn’t concerned with whether I hit his head or face as he charged at me with a gun. If I had a gun, for sure, there would be one or two fewer people walking the earth. Money/Wallets/Jewellery: My plan for the fake wallet did work, although not exactly as I imagined. Yep, they took the wallet for sure, which had expired cards in it, some more than 3 years old, plus a bunch of Indonesian money, looking like it was full rather than my real wallet. As a courtesy, we notified the bank, who immediately shut down everything, even though I still had all current cards and the ones the rascals took had expired at least 3 years ago. Interestingly the bank stated they could still be used. The costume jewellery that we left lying around in lieu of the real stuff was not taken, but I still think this was a good idea. The loaded wallet was a good idea, but the old cards were problematic. Computers/Electronics: I do not have a laptop, some years ago, I moved to Intel NUC, a great device that most don’t even know what it is. So we did not lose any laptops or computer stuff. Summary: So if your coming (or going) the way I came (down the northern side of PNG ), you should rethink your risks because it can happen to you. If you still plan to do it, make sure the weather allows you to keep going nonstop and plan to sail from Vanimo if you stop there or Madang through to Louisades nonstop, no lights, no AIS, and at least 10nm off the coast and not via Tiaz straight. For me, when I go back to Philippines from Australia it will not be that way I came.

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By ByChris ChrisRose Rose

CRUISING THE KIMBERLEY

An AHOY Sailing Series

In this instalment of the Sailing No Regrets Circumnavigation Of Australia series, we leave Ruby Falls at Red Cone Creek and head to the epic Horizontal Falls in The Kimberley. On route, we come across a Humpback whale and its calf relaxing in one of the many bays along this truly spectacular coastline. Soon after our arrival, we head off in our tender for a preview before jumping on the charter tour to see the falls flowing at a mighty pace. Afterwards, we head off again in our tender up Cyclone Creek where we once again encounter huge currents and spectacular cliffs.

By Chris Rose

Described by Sir David Attenborough as “one of the world’s greatest natural wonders”, a visit to the Kimberley could not be considered complete without visiting the Horizontal Falls. Having long been on my must-see bucket list items, sailing our own boat to this iconic location added a feeling of achievement to the satisfaction of achieving a goal. About the Horizontal Falls. Unlike a traditional waterfall, the Horizontal Falls are formed by the powerful tides as water rushes horizontally through two narrow gorges in Talbot Bay in the Buccaneer Archipelago, which of course, reverse with each tidal change. The twin gaps are part of the McLarty Ranges, which have two ridges running parallel approximately 300 metres apart. The first and most seaward gap is about 20 metres wide, and the second most spectacular gap is about 10 metres wide. This location has no road access; only boats and seaplanes can visit. Talbot Bay’s tidal range is typically around 8-9 metres, but during the summer king tides, it reaches a huge 13 metres. These massive tidal movements create a waterfall effect as water builds up on one side or the other of the gaps faster than it can flow through them, creating a waterfall of up to 4 metres high. Timing Our Arrival Wanting to time our arrival with the spring tides, we explored the nearby Red Cone Creek with the beautiful Ruby Falls and Little Ruby Falls (also known as Sapphire Falls) to wait for the best tides during our stay. With the larger tides approaching, we headed across Collier Bay between Kingfisher and Melomy Islands.

Although we believed the charts showed 2 metres LAT across the gap, if you do follow our path, keep closer to Melomy Island, where we found much greater depth. Closer to Kingfisher Island is very shallow and rocky. These waters are murky, so you cannot see the underwater obstructions, and hitting something causing severe damage could be a catastrophic end to your adventures. During our visit, there was very little Navionics sonar chart data, but it has been considerably updated at the time of writing this article.

By Chris Rose

After crossing the Caesar Channel, we made our way with the incoming tide, weaving between the islands with strong currents up to the fall's anchorage.

Passing on the southern side of Slug Island, which did look like a giant slug stretched across the water, our charts had no depth information on the northern side. Luckily, we did not encounter any pearl farms marked on the charts making our entry easier.

Anchoring just north of the Horizontal Falls and the floating hotel in around 10 metres of water, we watched the seaplanes land and take off alongside No Regrets.

By Chris Rose

You need to allow for plenty of anchor scope as although we usually encountered little wind in the Kimberley, we experienced 15-20 knots during that night, plus the powerful tidal flows. With a 9-metre tidal range, it tested our anchor holding. Once safely re-anchored in the morning, with all our 70 metres of chain now out, we radioed the hotel on the VHF to book a speedboat tour. The rate of water flow at its fastest can be around 30 knots, so our little tender just isn’t going to be up to the task, and the tour boats have four big outboards totalling a whopping 1200 horsepower, which gives a little idea of the currents encountered.

With our tour booked for the following morning, we decided to explore the first fall as the flow slowed with the incoming tide nearing its peak. Cruising through the first tight gorge in our tender was terrific, and although still flowing at several knots was managed by our 18-horsepower outboard. The incredible flow of the tight gorge gap formed huge, powerful whirlpools. Between the two gorges is an area that opens, and the water calms before leading to the second and much tighter gorge. As we approached, we could see a trail of foam extending away from us into the bay on the other side. From our position, we could also see the 2-metre drop in water level as it passed through this tight gorge. As such, we were EXTREMELY careful not to get too close as we could easily be sucked through. There are numerous tales of boats trying to pass through the gorge in fast-flowing water and the boats being flipped. It cannot be forgotten that this is still crocodile country where the last place you would want to be is in the water with an upside-down boat. When inspecting the gorges in your tender, you must be careful of the tour boats that race through the gorge at very high speeds. Crossing too near the gorge could have you directly in the path of a high-speed tour boat that has no time or room to manoeuvre, so keeping to the side is recommended.

By Chris Rose

Getting up the following morning, we headed to the floating hotel and watched as a couple of seaplanes landed and tied up to the pontoon before jumping onto our tour boat. We were soon heading up to the first wider gorge that was flowing at a pretty rapid rate but easily traversed by the high-speed boat, and we entered the middle bay. After our tour guide gave an informative talk, it was time to gun the engines and pass-through this first gorge several times. Racing through from each direction in the strong current, either with or against us, depending on the direction of travel, just missing the gorge walls was exhilarating.

Moving towards the tighter second gorge, the skipper poked the boat's bow up very close to the rushing wall of white water coming towards us. The falls dropped at least 2 to 3 metres down to our level, too dangerous for the boat to climb safely and pass through. You had the feeling that passing through these second falls would have been great to see, but that would also mean the water flow was not at its peak, and the sheer rate of flow is what we wanted to witness with the chosen spring tides. It is a wall of white-water foam roaring at you with incredible force. After getting the boat up close several times and zipping through the first gorge with a few more passes, it was time to return home. I strongly recommend taking the tour to get up close in the safest way possible to such an incredible natural wonder.

Returning from such an incredible experience to our yachts, we took our tender up Cyclone Creek. This area is also subject to strong tidal flows through impressive cliffs and river bends. Motoring up several kilometres and drifting quietly back down was spectacular, whilst being spun around multiple times in the numerous strong whirlpools in the strong fast flowing current.

By Chris Rose

Leaving the Horizontal Falls, we made our way to the adjacent Dugong Bay. Wanting to leave with an outgoing tide to use the current gave us a dilemma when entering Dugong Bay, as that is better on an incoming tide. Deciding on a near-high tide for slower flow, we headed the short distance around. Weaving through the islands in tight, twisty places, we still encountered some powerful currents as this area has an overfall that runs later than the estimated high tide time. Working our way deep inside the bay, we anchored and explored the high waterfall on the eastern side that only had a trickle of flow during our visit. Tucking the tender to the side of a massive crevice in the rock, we climbed onto the rocky platform before ascending a steep sheer rockface to find a small pool fed by a trickle of water. It would definitely be a highlight to see when more water flows earlier in the season, but it was still impressive to see towering above us.

Across the bay on the eastern side are a couple more falls to be explored. Pushing our way through the tight mangroves, we climbed onto the large rocks where we could hear the waterfall above. With Jo deciding to wait at the bottom, we went through an incredible gorge and a few tricky rock escarpments. Looking back down, we could see a curious crocodile sneakily working its way nearer to our tender. Thankfully Jo, who was waiting below, was sitting safely up high on the rocks, clear of danger. After a hot climb to the top of the falls, we found a couple of lovely swimming holes with cool, clear water where we could sit and chill.

The Verdict? Our visit to the Horizontal Falls did not disappoint. They truly are an incredible natural wonder and should not be missed!

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In 2022 a series of articles about a circumnavigation of Australia written by Chris Rose of Sailing No Regrets was published in AHOY. The series continues in 2023 with the Cruising The Kimberley installments. If you missed the previous articles you can... CATCH UP ON PAST ISSUES OF AHOY SAILING AT ISSUU.COM/DOWNUNDERRALLY

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Highfield 2.9 Hyperlon Tender with Parsun 9.8 outboard. $2,400 The Tender is in reasonable condition. It does have a couple of repairs that were professionally done. The engine is also well-used but still kicks over super easy and runs great. The price is reflective of our wanting to sell so that we can install our new tender. Call Ian Daley on 0409 423 955 Email iandaley@live.com.au 4 SAILS FOR SALE OFF A 41 FT MONO-HULL CUTTER RIG. 1. 135% Genoa (never used.) Pro radial by Dimension, in 7 oz and 8 oz Blend Luff 15.6 m (51' 3") Leech 15.3 m (50' 3") Foot 7.85 m (35' 9") $2600 2. 110% Genoa (used) 9 to 10 oz Fair condition Luff 15.50 m (51') Foot 6.1 m (20') $300 3. Inner head sail (used) 9 to 10 oz Fair condition Luff 10.05 m (33') Foot 3.35 (11') $200 4. Main sail (used) leech battened 10 oz Fair condition, Dutchman reefing. Luff 14.335 m (47') Foot 3.965 (13'). $300 Call Kevin 0413 168 351.Location Scarborough Brisbane LEWMAR OCEAN/EVO ST50-65 WINCH SPARES KIT New Winch Service Spares Kit (purchased the wrong kit). Lewmar Part#48000017 Asking $60.00 Available now at Bundaberg Port Marina, or I can post at buyer cost. Call Leanne 0433-185-167

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SE ASIA PILOT GUIDE 5th Edition, 2016. Good condition. Asking $40.00 Available now at Bundaberg Port Marina, or I can post at buyer cost. Call Leanne 0433-185-167

VETUS WATER STRAINER TYPE FTR470/32MM Cooling water strainer with transparent cover for easy inspection of the filter content. Used water strainer in good condition with stainless steel wall bracket for easy alignment and clamping in place. All clamps/brackets. Asking $60.00. Available now at Bundaberg Port Marina or post at buyer cost. Call Leanne 0433-185-167

Members Marketplace All six of the items on this page have been carried as spares. They have never been used and, as such, are in an as new condition. Located Brisbane Area for pickup or postage can be arranged. Prices do not include the cost of postage. Contact Andrew: E: andrewglasspool@hotmail.com | P: 0491 949 848 | Whatsapp: +44 79 6763 9197

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Members Marketplace MARINE-GRADE ACRYLIC CANVAS The colour is marine blue. 4 m x 2 m. Unused as I bought the wrong colour. Located In Pittwater NSW until Mid-April then heading north $120.00. Call or email Sarah PH: 0439 093 919. E: sarah.tadd@live.com 30 KG STAINLESS STEEL BRUCE ANCHOR Price $250.00 AUD plus delivery cost. New Replacement cost $2500.00 Contact Craig: 0418 430939 Brighton East Melbourne Vic.

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Hi, My name is Leanne, some of you may know me as Yoga4Yachties. For the last 15 years, I have been an active member of the sailing & cruising community and practising Yoga whilst cruising the South Pacific and Australia. In 2013 I deepened my practice by becoming a certified Yoga Teacher. The training I undertook gave me the knowledge I needed to share my love of Yoga with the cruising community and the confidence I needed to teach. Since then, I have been rewarded both in monetary terms and, more importantly, I have been able to help my fellow cruisers, male & female, young & old, improve their cruising experience by becoming more agile, which all cruisers know is a valuable attribute. In 2021 I completed Yoga Teacher Training and founded Namaste Ocean Yoga with a focus on training students to become teachers. If you would like to provide your cruising community with the opportunity to gather on a beach and join a yoga session with you as their professionally trained, fully qualified teacher who understands what is needed to ensure all receive the right level of instruction and care, then I would LOVE to prepare you to be that person.

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