FREE MAGAZINE 2020 Edition – Issue 06
Your guide to Scilly MAGAZINE
Itineraries, tips, activities and accommodation to help you make the most of every minute on Scilly.
years of history OUR CENTENARY CELEBRATIONS A century of providing a lifeline service
Travel Isles of Scilly
IS LE S O F SCI LLY
WHY I WANT MY CHILDREN TO SPEND THEIR SUMMERS ON SCILLY By conservationist and presenter, Steve Backshall
DARK SKIES
Travel Isles of Scilly
The story of the islands first observatory
ISLES OF SCILLY TRAVEL BY SHIP | PLANE
IS LE S O F SCI LLY
Welcome aboard,
explore Scilly, and discover your own
peace and quiet
Why I want my children to spend their summers on Scilly, by wildlife TV presenter and conservationist, Steve Backshall Read our full interview with Steve Backshall MBE on page 08.
During my career I have been lucky enough to travel the world on expeditions and filming wildlife, and my wife Helen (Glover) has also travelled extensively as an international athlete. We’ve seen plenty of cool places, but the Isles of Scilly is the only place that made us want to give everything up and go and live there. While that’s certainly a few years off, in the meantime, it’s become our favourite family holiday hideaway. Scilly is such a special place with so much to offer. There is incredible wildlife –the bird watching is phenomenal – and from the perspective of anyone into paddle sports or any water sports actually, the Isles of Scilly is utter paradise. The diving has wrecks and reefs, it’s wild swimming central, and neither of us sail, but if we did…
MAGAZINE
Isles of Scilly Steamship Company Limited, Steamship House, Quay Street, Penzance Cornwall TR18 4BZ S Magazine is produced by Isles of Scilly Steamship Group inhouse communications team. T +44 (0) 1736 334240 marketing@islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Editor | Sharon Sandercock Thanks to all those who have contributed images for this publication.
As new parents the main appeal for us is that we can take our kids somewhere where they can see the world as it should be. Scilly is somewhere where you can be transported back into simpler times. Where you can wander down an empty beach looking for shells and yours will be the only footprints you’ll see in the sand. Where you can have a bracing swim in the sea with grey seals popping up and staring you in the face. You can’t push kids into loving the outdoors, especially when there’s competition from modern life and technology, but the beauty of Scilly is that you don’t have to – it is just very obviously wondrous, the ‘Swallows and Amazons’ vision of what a wonderful, perfect, natural childhood should be. Helen and I want our children to enjoy a halcyon childhood, and there is no better way than to ensure their summers are spent on Scilly, making memories to last a lifetime.
Opinions expressed are the authors and not necessarily those of the Company. Whilst every effort is made to ensure total accuracy Isles of Scilly Steamship Group cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions within this magazine. When you have finished with this magazine please pass it on or recycle it.
Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 3
Rooms with a view… Rooms witha aglorious view… view it is. and what Rooms with a view… view it is. and what a glorious and what ahave glorious view itanyis.hotel on Tregarthen’s Hotel must the most glorious setting of
St Mary’s, right by the water’s edge, just yards from the quay. The perfect Tregarthen’s Hotel must have the most glorious setting of any hotel on base for your break on Scilly. St Tregarthen’s Mary’s, rightHotel by the water’s edge, just yards from Theonperfect must have the most glorious settingthe of quay. any hotel St Mary’s, right by the water’s edge, just yards from the quay. The perfect base for your break on Scilly. base for your break on Scilly.
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• Luxury bedrooms, many with sea views • 6 self catering cottages
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BUCKET LIST ADVENTURES
Contents
08 12 15 16 18
A NATURAL WONDERLAND Steve Backshall discovers Scilly DISCONNECT TO RECONNECT A journey of discovery WILDLIFE & LANDMARKS A guide to spotting wildlife and landmarks from aboard Scillonian III A PLANT BASED MENU Vegan and vegetarian friendly restaurants WHEN THE BOAT COMES IN What inspires St. Agnes chef Mark Eberlein at the High Tide restaurant
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THE PERFECT PHOTO Matt from Aerial Cornwall shares his photographic journey of Scilly
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BUCKET LIST ADVENTURES Blogger Charli Moore ticks Scilly off her bucket list
26
TOP TEN ISLES OF SCILLY DAY TRIPS Our favourite ways to explore Scilly in a day
34
WHEN YOU SEE THE STARS, YOU ARE LOOKING INTO THE PAST
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A CENTURY OF PROVIDING A LIFELINE SERVICE
28 30 34 37 42 45 46 54
BENEFITS FOR YOU Added value to your journey THE SPIRIT OF CRAFT Exciting flavours produced on the islands WHEN YOU SEE THE STARS, YOU ARE LOOKING INTO THE PAST The islands first observatory – COSMOS share their story A CENTURY OF PROVIDING A LIFELINE SERVICE Our centenary archive FROM PENZANCE TO SCILLY Scillonian art by Sue Lewington SOMETHING SPECIAL A slice of Scilly inspired gifts STAY ON THE ISLES OF SCILLY | STOPOVERS IN CORNWALL AND DEVON Accommodation options from mainland to island DELIVERING FOR SCILLY Our Missions, Visions and Values Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 7
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A NATURAL WONDERLAND with Steve Backshall
Nature conservationist and BAFTA award winning television presenter Steve Backshall is best known for hosting popular wildlife series including Deadly 60 and Blue Planet Live.
Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 9
Steve, who was awarded an MBE in the New Year Honours for services to charity and wildlife conservation, is married to Cornish Olympian rower Helen Glover. The couple visited the Isles of Scilly with their son Logan in 2019 and are planning to return in 2020 with their new baby twins. What were your first impressions of Scilly? The very first time I visited, we rocked up on the ferry to Hugh Town in St. Mary’s and it’s like any nice, small town in Cornwall. But then you get into a boat to another island close by and you’re on a paradise beach - a beach you couldn’t believe would be possible in our neck of the woods - and have it completely to yourself with not a single footprint in the sand.
THERE’S SOMETHING INCREDIBLY SPECIAL ABOUT THAT ABILITY TO COMPLETELY ESCAPE THE MODERN WORLD AND BE SOMEWHERE SO WILD AND BACK TO NATURE.
I’ve visited several times on sea kayaking trips and it is the finest place in the nation, if not the continent, to go sea kayaking. Last year was Helen’s first trip to Scilly and we spent most of 10 | S MAGAZINE
our time on St. Martin’s, where we were welcomed like family. Helen went out in the gigs, rowing and the residents made our family feel like we had been there forever. It’s somewhere that will be very, very special to us our whole lives. Have you had many memorable wildlife experiences on Scilly? I was a part of the first commercial kayaking trip to paddle from the Isles of Scilly to the mainland in 2006, which was hands-down the best British wildlife day I’ve ever had. In one single day, we saw a minke whale and her calf which popped up between our boats, we had dolphin and porpoise, grey seals and common seals, a fulmar which circled our kayaks for about six hours, my only ever view of a great shearwater in this country, and a leatherback sea turtle paddled straight into us.
Steve and Helen on St. Mary’s
How do you prefer to travel to Scilly? I love sailing there on the Scillonian III but being able to hop on a flight and be there in a blink of an eye is brilliant – it takes barely a few minutes from Land’s End. Logan loved it; he watched the waves from the window the whole way. I’m planning on flying with Skybus from Exeter soon that connection is amazing; you can be on the islands so quickly.
Steve paddling through a frozen fjord high in the Arctic circle
Is it important for you to holiday in the UK? Someone in my position shouldn’t really be jetting off and taking their family to far-flung destinations if I want to live out the message I’m promoting. I have to travel internationally a lot with my job but I offset air miles and like to holiday closer to home. When you have so much on offer on your doorstep with Scilly that doesn’t require you to take a big international flight - that is a massive attraction. What are your top tips for enjoying the wildlife on a visit to Scilly? Snorkelling with seals off St. Martin’s is probably the best wildlife encounter in the British Isles for me, and pretty much essential for anyone that comes to the islands. If you’ve got clear waters and the seals are intrigued enough to come right up to your mask, it’s very difficult to beat – and that’s from someone who films wildlife for a living and has done for 20 years. The bird life, particularly in the spring, is just phenomenal. You’re guaranteed to see gannets, fulmars, puffins and all the other birds that I used to take quite a trek to go and find – they’re just right there in front of you.
Sunrise on a towering Scottish highland ridge
It feels like a natural wonderland, almost like a picture postcard of how the south west of our nation used to be and should be. Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 11
D I S C O N N E C T to R E C O N N E C T
What is it about travel that brings out the happiness in us? Is it the long days spent lounging on the beach, is it tucking into delicious food you wouldn’t brave cooking at home? Or is it exploring a new place and meeting new people? Our everyday lives are jam-packed with calendar meetings, fitness sessions and social gatherings. Sometimes we wear ‘busy’ as a badge of honour but being on holiday forces us not to have that. If you’ve dreamed of a simpler time when the days are governed by the tide and your dinner is determined by what’s come in on it, then a visit to the Isles of Scilly is where it starts; and it begins with the journey. You could be flying from one of our departure airports view of St. at01 Aerial Exeter, Newquay orMartin’s Land’s End and from the 12 | S MAGAZINE
moment you check-in you’ll start to relax; at Skybus, our captains provide you with a personal greeting at the bottom of the steps before boarding. Once aboard you’ll experience a bird’s-eye view of the landscape below, it’s the only flight you’ll wish took longer. Or you may be sailing aboard our passenger ferry Scillonian III, marvelling at the popular landmarks populating Cornwall’s coastline, relaxing on deck and keeping an eye out for dolphins and seabirds. Whichever mode you’ve chosen to make the crossing, the journey will be a unique part of your holiday memories. The islands are the perfect place to unwind and reconnect with yourself and your loved ones. You may see a few cars on the Isles of Scilly but bustling, it’s not. One of the best ways to spend a day exploring is by foot. Simply keep walking – the islands’ small size mean
you won’t get lost, just keep an eye on the time if you’re catching a boat back from another island. On St. Mary’s there’s a friendly and knowledgeable bike hire shop on the Strand (opposite St. Mary’s quay.) From here, pick your route around the island, you’ll soon while away the hours happily cycling through the lanes and tracks. If you’d prefer something a bit more active, each of the ‘off-islands’ has a watersports centre, choose between paddleboarding, sailing and kayaking – paddle between the islands and if you time it right on St. Martin’s, Ganilly Bay is a little slice of paradise not many people know about and it’s only revealed at low tide. Snorkelling with seals is a popular activity too, you’ll be truly as immersed in nature as you can be. And true to island life – you’ll find food fresh from the honesty stalls or off the boat from the fishermen
that day, watch the local gig races and cheer on your favourite team. At dusk, lay by the cliffs and watch the sun go down over the sea – keep your eyes peeled for the mysterious ‘green flash’ and see how many stars you can spot in the unpolluted sky. The great thing about Scilly is, it doesn’t matter if you are travelling on your own, with family, partners or friends; it’s safe, friendly, calm and jaw-droppingly beautiful. The turquoise, still waters that surround the islands evoke a peaceful quality in yourself, the birds’ chorus at dawn will remind you of a serene English countryside and the exotic plant life transports you to an African plain. Scilly leaves a lasting impression on your heart, it’s unlike anywhere else you will have been – and here, you’ll share moments that stay with you for a lifetime. Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 13
Ocean sunfish
Shag
Common dolphin
Atlantic grey seal
Richard Nicholls
Manx Shearwater
Puffin
WI LD LI FE & L AN D MAR KS
T O P T I Pildlife
ace to w A good pl nel ar the Run spot is ne ea ar d En ’s Stone/Land f Rock. ol W ds ar and tow e feeds. the wildlif It ’s where
The crossing between mainland Penzance and St. Mary’s on the Isles of Scilly is teeming with wildlife and popular landmarks. We have a wildlife ranger – Natalie, from the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust aboard ship two days a week. If you see her out on deck be sure to say hi and she’ll point out what’s on the horizon on your journey. What will you see on your journey? Tick the ones you see!
, Pete Crawford Captain Scillonian III
Day Mark
Longship’s lighthouse
Land’s End
St. Michael’s Mount
Jubilee Pool
Minack Theatre Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 15
A plant-based menu on the Isles of Scilly Times are certainly changing, particularly for British high streets and restaurants; vegan and vegetarian food options are popular choices in many menus and are readily available on the shelves of supermarkets. Over on the Isles of Scilly, restaurants and cafés are following suit.
Here’s a quick lowdown of the vegan friendly establishments on Scilly: ST. MARY’S
Dibble and Grub restaurant have lots of vegan options available included in their popular tapas menu. The Atlantic Inn offers a separate vegan/veggie menu which you can ask for, the main menu also labels dishes suitable for vegans. The Mermaid Inn has a veggie and vegan selection on the menu. This Includes vegan risotto, vegan jackfruit fajitas, vegan stir fry and vegan fish and chips. The Beach bar and restaurant at Porthmellon has super salads, a cassoulet of beans and veggie Burgers. Hugh Street Café offers a large vegan menu including 16 | S MAGAZINE
Superfood Salad, Ruin Beach Cafe, Tresco
blueberry croissants, vegan sausage rolls, chickpea and spinach pie, vegan pasties, falafel salad and more. Star Castle Hotel and restaurant will cater to vegan requirements with prior notice. On the Quay restaurant has vegan curries, puddings and snacks on their menu. BRYHER
Fraggle Rock bar and café have a vegan soup, salads and will cater to individual dietary needs. There is also Bryher Shop which has freshly stocked fruit and vegetables.
Vegan tapas, Dibble and Grub
TRESCO
Tresco Stores is a lovely deli which has a wide selection of vegan foods. Includes five types of vegan ice cream, vegan pesto, vegan chocolate, tofu, vegan cheese, plant mylks and frozen products from Amy’s Kitchen, Goodlife, Linda McCartney and more… Ruin Beach Café is perched above the white sands of Raven’s Porth. The Ruin is the perfect place to savour a holiday moment.
ST. MARTIN’S
On St. Martin’s there is a wonderful organic bakery that will provide vegan options with notice. ST. AGNES
Chef, Mark Eberlein at the High Tide restaurant, with Forget drab, uninspiring salads prior notice will work his and try the vibrant superfood magic on a vegan menu Salad, full of colour and texture. – see page 19.
Thai noodle salad with a spicy peanut dressing, Hugh Street Café Chocolate avocado cake, Hugh Street Cafe
Please note, this is not an exhaustive list, many of the eating establishments on the Isles of Scilly will happily cater to dietary needs.
Vegan tapas, Dibble and Grub
Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 17
Trends in food come and go but people like to know where the food is coming from and are keen on local produce. High Tide Seafood Restaurant is open in April on a Thursday and Friday evening and from May to September on a Wednesday, Thursday and Friday evening. Booking is essential.
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When the boat comes in with Mark Eberlein. Chef at High Tide Seafood Restaurant.
H
igh Tide Seafood Restaurant is on the island of St. Agnes and probably one of the smallest restaurants on the islands. Chef and owner Mark Eberlain tells us how he found his way to the islands and his journey to set up ‘High Tide’. “I used to work at the islands’ only pub – ‘The Turks Head’ and always knew there was room for something different here. I had just got married and Tristan Hick asked if I’d like to use his café in the evenings, that was 13 years ago. A few things have changed but I still love doing what I do and there’s no better place to be. The restaurant seats just 30 people and has spectacular views out over the Western Rocks and Bishop Rock lighthouse. We’re only open three nights a week, serving seafood and as many local ingredients as we can; it’s just myself cooking and two people looking after the front of house, one being my wife Emma. I grew up in New Zealand, some of my food and ingredients are influenced by this, the small village I’m from is surrounded by boutique vineyards so I have a lot of New Zealand wines on my wine list. I love to cook with fresh, clean flavours and not too many ingredients confusing the palate.
My menu is largely fish but I do have a meat option and if forewarned I can create a vegetarian or vegan option. My menu is small with only two starters, two mains and two desserts. I do my best to cater to everyone’s dietary needs but I’m a one-man operation. Trends in food come and go but people like to know where the food is coming from and are keen on local produce. I’m not keen on fast food chains but living here, we don’t have that which is another great thing Scilly has going for it. Before I became a chef, I wanted to be an architect but after failing tech drawing in school, I knew it wasn’t for me. I’ve been working in restaurants since I was 13 years old and it just snowballed really. I’m also an artist, I do pyrography (wood tattoos) and sell my work in the Pot Buoys Gallery on St. Agnes. I love anything motorcycle related and I’m a big fan of Strongman (which I once competed in). I do play cricket for St. Agnes and I love sea swimming. As my wife says, you never regret a swim, it makes you tingle all over in these cool waters. My favourite place on Scilly is Gugh island. I just love walking around Gugh, the peace and quiet of it is so nice and the views from Kittern Hill are breath-taking or sitting on the sandbar with a cold beer or glass of wine after a swim in the summer is heaven.” Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 19
The
P E R F E C T P H O T O
Right Par Beach. Sometimes when shooting aerial photography, you don’t need to be very high. Just a slight elevation can really change the way we see the world. Left Tean is my personal favourite island to photograph. This was taken on a long summer’s day in July, Round Island Lighthouse is seen in the distance.
Scilly is a photographer’s paradise, wherever you look, there are camera opportunities but seeing the islands from above is something special altogether. We’ve caught up with Matt from Aerial Cornwall to hear about his favourite places he’s captured by drone on the Isles of Scilly.
Moored up yachts are a common site around the islands. This image shows the length of the southern side of St. Martin’s and the Day Mark in the distance.
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You can view more of Matt’s work at: aerialcornwall.com
C O M P E T I T I O N We’re running a competition for budding photographers as part of our 100-year celebrations, visit islesofscilly-travel.co.uk/ offer/photo-competition-2020/
The Day Mark on St. Martin’s is one of the first sights you see when flying over the islands. Luckily the wind was light and the air visibility was superb. I could easily see Cornwall in the other direction.
Note: If operating a drone on the Isles of Scilly it is vital you inform Air Traffic Control at St. Mary’s Airport prior to all flights.
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Tresco
BUCK ET LIST
ADVENTU RES BY
Charli Moore is a blogger who has travelled the world and last year made her first journey to the Isles of Scilly.
We caught up with Charli to hear what she thought of her visit. Charli runs a blog called Wanderlusters, visit: wanderlusters.com 22 | S MAGAZINE
Wanderluster Charli Moore
As we approached the runway the view from the window was akin to something from a Caribbean holiday rather than a staycation in England; azure blue ocean boarded a windswept and rocky coastline which gave way to a lush green landscape. I chose to visit during the second week of May and enjoyed practically tropical weather conditions with temperatures in the mid-20s during the day. I visited each of the five inhabited islands during my stay, here’s my lowdown of each:
ST. MARY’S Covering an area of less than 2.5 square miles it has an intimate atmosphere that exudes small island life. If you’re looking for something akin to small village living with easy access to restaurants, cafes, boutiques, and activities, consider finding accommodation on St. Mary’s and taking day trips to the other islands during your stay. MY FAVOURITE THINGS TO SEE AND DO ON ST. MARY’S: There are a wealth of hiking and cycling trails on the island, all of which lead to scenic views.
Windswept sand dunes, swatches of pristine beaches, and a rugged, undulating seascape stretched out in front of the quay. Tresco
Tresco St. Mary’s
St. Mary’s
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St. Mary’s
St. Mary’s
The Beach restaurant, St. Mary’s
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Hire a bike and circumnavigate the island under your own steam. I think this was quite possibly the best thing I did on St. Mary’s. Day hire is just £13.50 and you can spend your time discovering the island’s beaches and artisan produce. MY FAVOURITE PLACE TO EAT: In my TripAdvisor review I gave five stars all round for The Beach BBQ surf and turf restaurant which serves fresh island fayre in an upmarket beach shack. The grilled lobster is a must as are their mussels, and their cocktail list, which includes a few specials that change weekly. Highly recommended for supper as the sunset views over the water are some of the best I’ve ever seen. TRESCO Windswept sand dunes, swatches of pristine beaches, and a rugged, undulating seascape stretched out in front of the quay. Famed for its Abbey Gardens and deserted beaches Tresco is perfect for active travellers and families in search of adventure. The northern peninsula is particularly scenic with sea cliffs that look almost Scandinavian.
BRYHER The smallest inhabited island in the Isles of Scilly, Bryher has an incredibly diverse coastline that is peppered with small bays and secluded coves. Its eastern shores look out over neighbouring Tresco but its vibe is quite different. Along with a handful of accommodation options here you’ll find a shop with bakery and post-office, local produce stalls, a café and a bar. ST. AGNES England’s final frontier before the thousands of miles of Atlantic Ocean that separate us from America, St. Agnes is an island of contrasts. On its exposed west side, rocky outcrops define the landscape whereas inland you’ll find quaint cottages and a patchwork of flower fields. In the shelter of the east coast, paradise beaches give way to quiet coves and the sandbar between St. Agnes and Gugh is particularly magical. SOUND HEAVENLY?
Having spent a week exploring the islands, I can highly recommend the destination for active travellers who love adventure.
ST. MARTIN’S I’d recommend St. Martin’s to anyone looking to self-cater their stay and spend time chilling out on the beach and enjoying nature walks. There are a handful of places to eat and drink, and one or two organised activities (the seal snorkelling is a must), but for the most part life on St. Martin’s is about making your own fun. Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 25
TOP 10 DAY TR IPS Ou r top ten d ay t r ips on t he I sle s of S ci l ly. You c a n’t le ave t he i sl a nd w it hout…
1 Lunch at Juliet’s Garden Great food with outstanding views over St. Mary’s Island: St. Mary’s
Suitable for a day trip using these transport methods. Scillonian Skybus
S T. AGN E S
S T. M A RY ’S
5 Walking the ‘bar’ between Gugh and St. Agnes at low tide
6 Hire bikes on St. Mary’s and explore more of the island in less time
7 Rockpooling with the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust
Island: St. Agnes
Island: St. Mary’s
Island: St. Mary’s
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2 Hire a kayak and explore the channel between Bryher and Tresco
3 Tresco Abbey Gardens Experience the UK’s most tropical garden
Island: Bryher
Island: Tresco
4 Walk to the Day Mark for exceptional views Island: St. Martin’s
BRY H E R
T R E SCO
S T. M A RT I N ’S
8 Take a boat trip to another island or go on a wildlife safari
9 Visit at an honesty stall and sample the wide range of island produce
10 Snorkel with seals around the Eastern Isles off St. Martin’s
Island: St. Mary’s
Island: all
Island: St. Martin’s
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B E N E F I T S F O R Y O U New to 2020, the Night Riviera GWR Sleeper train’s timetable is matched more closely with Scillonian III’s scheduled departure time, allowing more time for you to relax and refresh before boarding Scillonian III. On arrival or departure at Penzance, a GWR lounge is situated in Penzance train station for Night Sleeper passengers to freshen up with accessible shower facilities and complimentary snacks and drinks. Connecting by train to Scilly couldn’t be simpler.
ISLES OF SCILLY London Paddington
Exeter St. Mary’s
Penzance
And if you’re flying with Skybus from Exeter… You’ll receive a 10% discount when booking car parking on the Exeter Airport website. Simply enter skybus2020 when booking online. If you’d like to use the Executive Lounge at Exeter Airport, as a Skybus passenger enter the promo code SKYEXT and you’ll get a £5 discount and free FastTrack security.
GWR lounge, Penzance Station
Executive lounge, Exeter Airport
You can too on the Night Riviera Sleeper, between London and Penzance, now with refurbished cabins and extra comfort.
THE FAMOUS FIVE © 2017, Hodder & Stoughton Limited. Only guide dogs allowed in cabins.
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Book now at GWR.com/sleeper
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The
S P I R I T of
C R A F T There’s no denying it, craft drinks have been a huge trend in the last few years with pioneers crafting new and exciting flavours with a story to tell. We, as consumers want to see how a product has been made and move towards products made locally with craftmanship. We want genuine authenticity and creative flavours – and where better to sample this, than the Isles of Scilly. Whether you’re visiting the islands and sampling the produce or want to take it away and enjoy at home, you simply must sample a flavour of the islands. Here are just a few of Scilly’s unique drinks available.
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RUM
Carron Farm Distillery SC Dogs Premium Rum and Vodka, distilled from centuries of island life on the Isles of Scilly. Stories have always flowed in the blood of the farmers and fishermen of St. Martin’s. Of shipwrecks and smuggling, sunshine and storms. Now, at the first and only rum distillery on the Isles of Scilly, the Walder family have distilled those stories, that heritage into SC Dogs premium spirits. Distilled, aged and bottled on the islands, SC Dogs is a range of delicately balanced premium rums and vodkas with a clean, rounded finish and a tang of the sea.
GIN
GIN
SOFT DRINKS
Westward Farm Scilly Gin
Scilly Spirit Island Gin
Carn Friars Farm Pear & Apple Juice
Bringing together some of the world’s finest botanicals, from Java and Africa to Scilly’s own fields. Aiden and his team gently vapour infuse in small stills with a pure grain spirit in tiny batches, producing just 28 bottles at a time, ensuring that none of the amazing flavours are lost. This small batch, single shot technique means that each batch is subtly unique, extracting the best of each botanical.
Distilled and bottled on St. Mary’s, the inspiration for this gin recipe dates to 1665 when the survivors of a ship, wrecked around Bishop Rock, were rescued by bold crew in pilot gig boats from St. Mary’s. Part of that ship’s rich cargo was pepper from Java for the Spice Trade, and so pepper is one of the six main botanicals plus juniper that make up this multi award winning Island Gin. For a unique experience, join a guided tour of the distillery at Old Town, St. Mary’s and create your own gin at the ‘Gin School’.
You’ll find Ang’s selection of fruits and jams – as well as popular apple juice from her 300-strong orchard – on an honesty stall towards the Eastern end of St. Mary’s. What could be better than buying direct from the farm itself? All the fruit is handpicked and sorted before being pressed and blended. They also produce cider using this method!
MAKE THE MOST OF THE FRESH ISLAND PRODUCE Throughout September, the islands celebrate their delicious and unique food and drink scene with the Taste of Scilly event. The month-long festival is packed full of Scillonian seafood, cookery masterclasses, island-hopping supper safaris as well as local markets, pop up events and tastings.
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“When you see the stars, you are looking into the past” In 2018, an ambitious project to build a permanent astronomical observatory on St. Martin’s launched; the first of its kind on Scilly.
We’ve caught up with Charlie Payne from the COSMOS team to find out about stargazing on Scilly. What is COSMOS? COSMOS stands for Community Observatory St. Martin’s on Scilly. We are a group of enthusiastic amateur astronomers who live and work on St. Martin’s. After three years of fundraising, our observatory opened in 2019, and we manage this as a team of volunteers. The Observatory has two observation domes, one housing a 14-inch Meade 34 | S MAGAZINE
telescope suitable for deep sky viewing; in the other a versatile 5-inch Altair telescope - ideal for viewing the planets - sits alongside a solar telescope, used for observing the Sun. We also have a well-equipped warm room for hosting talks and events. How can visitors get involved whilst on Scilly? The Observatory is open from April to October. We are open to the public every Tuesday night (8-10pm) and Friday afternoons (2-4pm), regardless of the weather. Keep an eye out for other events, such as talks
and specific observing nights during the season; everyone is welcome – all ages and abilities. What makes Scilly so special for star gazing? We have some of the darkest skies in the UK! With no light pollution, Scilly enjoys pristine night skies. On a clear night, the sheer number of stars is breath-taking; for many visitors, seeing the Milky Way arc across the sky is an unforgettable experience. Crucially, as islands, being surrounded by large stretches of water, stargazers on Scilly benefit from fantastic sightlines. Our long, low
Beginners’ tips for star gazing at home? 1. Get dark! The best time for stargazing is an hour and a half after sunset. If you need a torch, only use one with a red light setting. Unless the Moon is your target for viewing, you also might want to avoid the days around a full Moon, as its brightness can drown out all but the most prominent stars and planets.
2. Find your way. You can use a star map to orientate yourself with the night sky. Start by finding one constellation you will remember, such as the plough. Try looking for it at different times of night and throughout the year and see where you find it in the sky.
4. Magnify. You only need your naked eyes to stargaze, but adding a bit of magnification can really add to your experience. A pair of binoculars is great for looking at the Moon and for looking more closely at stars within constellations.
5. Keep going! Don’t expect to know it all at once. The more you can stargaze, the more you’ll be able to identify. Remember we all were absolute beginners once.
3. Get an app. Several brilliant apps are available for your mobile device which use your location to tell you exactly what’s in the sky at any given moment; COSMOS recommends Star Walk 2 or Sky Map.
horizons mean you have the chance to see objects – particularly the planets. Tell us an interesting fact about the night sky There are more stars in the Universe than there are grains of sand on the Earth. But you can only see 5% of them from the Earth! Do you have any favourite night sky quotes? “Look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Try to make sense of what you see, and wonder about what makes the universe exist. Be curious.”
– Stephen Hawking Can you tell us about the new inaugural Dark Skies’ Week in October 2020? The inaugural Scilly Dark Skies Week will take place on St. Martin’s 3rd–10th October 2020. Centred on our amazing, unpolluted dark skies and the new community observatory on St. Martin’s, join us for twinkly stargazing nights, expert guest speakers, island-based events and more. For more information visit www.cosmosscilly.co.uk/ dark-skies-week.
Do you have any exciting future plans for COSMOS? We’re only in our second year of having an observatory so a lot of this year will be developing what we learnt last year to make sure everyone that visits us has a fantastic experience and comes away more enthused about our beautiful night sky. We hope in the future to work with more observatories around the UK, welcome more visiting astronomers and student groups, and to become a centre of excellence in research.
Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 35
years of history
Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 37
years of history
Here’s how it all started In the early days, islanders travelled on an adapted fishing protection vessel making the crossing between Penzance and St. Mary’s. Then came the development of three Scillonians and our airline Skybus, along with the growth of a dedicated island freight service. The group has come a long way in the last 100 years, which has only been made possible through the dedication of the people behind the company.
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A Century of providing a lifeline service to the Isles of Scilly. This year (2020) we, the Isles of Scilly Steamship Group are celebrating 100 years of heritage. This milestone anniversary will be marked with a series of celebrations and events throughout the year – keep an eye on islesofscilly-travel.co.uk for more details.
During the First World War (1914-18), when resources were squeezed, the people of Scilly had to make do with crossings on an uncomfortable herring drifter if they wanted to journey to the mainland. Things got even trickier when the waving of victory flags signalled the end of the First World War; the herring drifter returned to service and residents were told they needed to find their own way across.
22nd November 1919 A limited liability company was formed with a nominal capital of £25,000.
May 1919 A public meeting was held in the Town Hall on St. Mary’s on Thursday, 15th May, to consider the possibility of maintaining or arranging for the steamship service between the islands and the mainland. There were about 95 persons present, and Mr FR Ward was voted to the Chair.
1941 – Wartime During the second World War (1939-45) a gun was placed on the stern of Scillonian; Scillonian was drafted in as part of the Ministry of War Transport. In the wartime, Scillonian captained by Captain J Reseigh (who later received an MBE for his war time efforts); never missed a sailing, despite fog, storms, enemy planes, submarines and mines.
1920 The Certificate of Incorporation of the Company dated 26th March 1920, and that of the right of the Company to commence business, dated 27th April 1920. The Argus was purchased, an ex-Royal Navy ship, she was renamed ‘Peninnis’. She carried passengers to and from the islands for 6 years, before costly repairs meant it was time for her to retire.
1925 We ordered the first of our purpose-built Scillonian passenger ferries. A grand, steam-powered vessel that could carry 165 tons of cargo and 390 passengers, the ferry cut the journey from Penzance to the Isles of Scilly down to just over 3 hours.
She made 3,173 crossings then, carrying 40,000 troops without the loss of a single life and travelling an aggregate of 150,000 miles in the process.
1938 A new office was needed as the company expanded, the Duchy offered a site in Hugh Street, next to Barclays Bank. We are still in this office today.
1946 A new 125 person passenger launch ‘The Lady of the Isles’ was built for the inter-island traffic. Today, the inter-island boating is serviced by a collective group of independent boat operators on the Isles of Scilly.
1926 Scillonian made her first official voyage and it wasn’t long before passengers stepped aboard to discover the islands. Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 39
1950s onwards
1952 Scillonian (II) was ordered and built by Messrs Thornycroft at Woolston, Southampton, launched in 1956 - she sailed faithfully for 25 years. To enable Islanders to see the launch of the second Scillonian in 1956, arrangements were made to take them by special coaches from Penzance to Southampton.
1975 Our third Scillonian was ordered – Scillonian III – the same ferry carrying passengers across to the Isles of Scilly today. Scillonian III was launched in 1977 and is powered by diesel, carries up to 485 passengers and has two on-board cafes to choose from.
Today, Skybus has regular flights to the Isles of Scilly departing from Land’s End, Newquay and Exeter airports.
? Did you know lled ca so al as The ship w in fact is Scillonian and but the not Scillonian II n. second Scillonia
1965 A new ship – ‘Queen of the Isles’ was commissioned as a passenger and cargo ship for the Isles of Scilly to augment the service already provided by the RMV Scillonian. She ran for 5 years until the tourism economy declined.
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1984 We expanded to air travel developing the Skybus airline, as an alternative to sea travel and shipping of freight. By 1987 this had expanded to scheduled, commercial flights.
1989 We expanded to further support the islands with the purchase of a Norwegian freight ship ‘Gry Maritha’ for a year-round freight service to the islands, and later an inter-island freight ship and post boat.
A new millennium years of history
2009 We took on the lease of Penzance Dry Dock after many years of having ships maintained by the former Holman’s Dry Dock.
2015 Island Carriers was acquired which provides haulage and courier services on St. Mary’s. Also, in 2015, our Community Fund was created with the aim of supporting a wide range of not-for-profit projects which provide long-lasting benefits for the communities of the Isles of Scilly and west Cornwall.
This is just a small snippet of our heritage. If you’d like to learn more about the history of the Isles of Scilly Steamship Group and the people who made and continue to contribute to the success of the company, visit our exhibition at the Wesleyan Chapel on St. Mary’s between 15th – 19th June 2020.
2017 Scillonian III celebrated 40 years of faithful service.
2020 To celebrate our anniversary, we’re hosting a free community event on 19th June 2020 on St. Mary’s, along with lots of other events and competitions throughout the year. For all of the details, visit: islesofscilly-travel.co.uk/ events
2019 We welcomed our 4.5 millionth ferry passenger aboard the Scillonian III ferry.
2013 We became the sole provider of travel to the islands and built a completely new terminal at Land’s End Airport. In 2014 we invested £2.6 million into Land’s End Airport, successfully surfacing the grass runways, to include runway draining and lighting.
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Sue Lewington is a freelance illustrator living in West Cornwall, who specialises in ink and watercolour sketches. Sue lived and ran a gallery on St. Martin’s, Scilly, for nearly 20 years before moving to west Penwith. Sue has a deep affinity with islands and regularly returns to Scilly and the Shetland islands in Scotland.
Sue painted this picture of Scillonian III as a tribute to the many ships that have made the same journey and was inspired by the poem below. Sue is producing a very special, limited edition illustrated book, in commemoration of our anniversary. The book will be available in June, if you would like a copy, contact: marketing@issg.co.uk
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Time to be... Book in some me time at the Island Spa, or meander through the subtropical splendour of the Abbey Garden. Enjoy a long lunch overlooking shimmering seas, explore the island by bike, or indulge in our gallery and boutique. Discover time to be on Tresco this year, with daily tripper boats from across the islands. TRESCO.CO.UK • 01720 422849
S PA & W E L L N E S S • A C C O M M O D AT I O N • A B B E Y G A R D E N • D I N I N G • G A L L E R Y
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SOMETHING SPECIAL From unique handcrafted gins to silver trinkets sourced from the shores of Scilly; our slice of Scilly products is just the thing to remind you of these special sand fringed islands. A SC Salt SC Salt is made simply from the sea and the sun on the Isles of Scilly. Handmade salt from the crystal-clear waters of St. Martin’s Par. Available locally, on-board Scillonian or at Land’s End Airport. sc-salt.co.uk @sc_salt B Scilly Billy Uniquely Scilly, our range of clothing, bags and more, lets you take the essence of your Scilly holiday with you wherever you go. You’ll find something for the whole family. Come and visit our shop on St. Martin’s this summer or online. scillybilly.com.
C Award-winning Island Gin Handcrafted by Arthur and Hilary at their distillery on St. Mary’s in various sizes. Ideal for gifts or to enjoy during your island stay, or they’ll post your bottle/s home in their plastic free bespoke packaging. Or enjoy a glass in any venue on the island to taste the true Spirit of Scilly. scillyspirit.com/shop D Scilly Flowers Scilly’s postal flower service sending gift boxes of island grown scented flowers all year round to any UK address. Churchtown Farm, St. Martin’s. scillyflowers.co.uk
E Fay Page The Scilly Bee is unique to the islands so this year we’ve decided to create a solid silver version in celebration of this very special island resident. To see more of our island inspired, designed and crafted jewellery visit our workshop Monday to Friday 9:30–16:30 or visit faypage.co.uk @faypagescilly F The IOS Store/49 degrees We are the only Scillonian store and proud to be born and created here on the islands. Offering our ever-popular hoodies, sweats, t-shirts and accessories over a variety of unique designs for all the family. 49degrees.co.uk
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Stay on the
Isles of Scilly Stopovers in Cornwall and Devon Whether you are visiting the Isles of Scilly for a day trip or longer break or staying near to one of our departure points in Exeter, Newquay or west Cornwall, we have a selection of accommodation to suit all trips and tastes. With hotels, bed and breakfasts, self-catering cottages and campsites, there’s a place for you to feel at home, wherever you are in your journey.
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Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 47
10% off stays
your next Cornish escape Roaring log burners, hearty home cooking, big squashy armchairs and the comfiest beds. Just like home (but better). Book online using code SCILLY10 for 10% off your stay.
Artist Residence C O R N WA L L
20 Chapel St., Penzance, Cornwall | artistresidence.co.uk/penzance
Stay on the
Isles of Scilly Why not combine Scilly with Cornwall or Devon as part of a twin centre break? Devon, Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly are a haven for outdoor lovers. A twin-centre holiday gives you a chance to discover the length and breadth of the south west in one trip.
The Isles of Scilly Five islands you can stay on and countless more to explore. The Isles of Scilly share a common atmosphere, perspective, and pace of life. Each island has its own unique charms – and you’ll quickly find a favourite - a quiet bond with one island that, feels that little bit more special than the others. But there’s no rush: after all, you’ll have five inhabited islands and countless deserted ones to explore. St. Mary’s On St. Mary’s, you’ll be as close as the Isles of Scilly gets to being busy. Hugh Town is the main centre for all the local services and it’s the island where you’ll arrive. This is where you’ll find most of the shops, the bank, and the boats on to other islands. With beaches, shopping, countryside paths and coastal trials – there’s always something new to try. Tresco Tresco is best defined by the Abbey Garden: its world-renowned, 19th century garden and home to some 20,000 sub-tropical plants. Like anywhere on the Isles of Scilly, though, Tresco also has its share of beaches, panoramas and secluded spots.
Bryher Bryher has a bit of everything: a rugged Atlantic side with dramatic coastline and occasionally, waves to match. But its sheltered, eastern shores, looking across to Tresco, are sandy and calm. On some tides, you can even make the crossing on foot. You’ll also find sweeping views, a well-known artist’s studio and some of the islands’ most sought-after eating experiences. St. Martin’s The only difficult thing about a stay on St. Martin’s is deciding which beach you’ll visit. You’ll find white, sandy coves that slope gently into crystal-clear water. You’ll also find great local food, artisan bread, the islands’ famous flower farm and its own winery – and, for a truly once-in-a lifetime memory, the chance to go snorkelling surrounded by Atlantic Grey seals. St. Agnes The tip of the British Isles. To the south west, there’s nothing but Bishop Rock Lighthouse and three thousand miles of ocean. It’s unspoiled – with mysterious, Bronze Age archaeology, and rare birds brought in on the Atlantic currents. It’s also home to a community of 72 people, the famous Turk’s Head pub, and creamy Troytown Farm ice cream – made by just nine cows. Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 49
These are just a selection of the properties available on our accommodation directory, for the full selection visit islesofscilly-travel.co.uk
Tregarthens Hotel St. Mary’s tregarthens-hotel.co.uk Island, convenient for Skybus and Scillonian from St. Mary’s
Search by island or mainland departure point. Distances from departure points to the Isles of Scilly Wide range of accommodation to suit all budgets.
Colossus B&B St. Mary’s colossus-scilly.co.uk Island, convenient for Skybus and Scillonian from St. Mary’s
Lowertown Farmhouse St. Agnes Facebook @lighthousefarmcottages Island, convenient for Skybus and Scillonian from St. Mary’s
Troytown Farm Camping St. Agnes troytown.co.uk Island, convenient for Skybus and Scillonian from St. Mary’s
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Stopover in
Cornwall or Devon
These are just a selection of island and mainland properties available on our accommodation directory, for the full selection visit islesofscilly-travel.co.uk/ accommodation-home/
SWPix
Why not combine your trip to Scilly with Cornwall Tour of Britain Cornwall will host the Tour of Britain for the first time ever on September 6th 2020, with the race seeing riders travel 170 kilometres through the Cornish countryside, starting at Penzance and ending in Bodmin. Find out more at cornwalltourofbritain.co.uk
WEST CORNWALL In west Cornwall, you’ll find rugged coastlines, awe-inspiring views, hidden beaches, stone monuments jutting from the cliffside, a castle in the ocean, forgotten mine stacks and a lively food and drink scene.
Gurnard’s Head Zennor gurnardshead.co.uk Mainland, convenient for Skybus from Land’s End and Scillonian from Penzance
Chy-an-mor Guest House Penzance
Godolphin Arms Hotel Marazion
chyanmor.co.uk
thegodolphin.com
Mainland, convenient for Skybus from Land’s End and Scillonian from Penzance
Mainland, convenient for Skybus from Land’s End and Scillonian from Penzance
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NEWQUAY AND THE NORTH COAST A landscape sculpted by the sea with tales of wrecking and smuggling and ancient myths about giants’ steps creating a causeway at Bedruthan Steps. Step away from the stories and you’ll find a surfing Mecca, thriving food scene, complimented with popular celebrity chefs and locally sourced produce.
Rosewin Cottage Near Polzeath corncott.com Mainland, convenient for Skybus from Newquay Airport
Watergate Bay Hotel Newquay
Headland Hotel Newquay
watergatebay.co.uk
headlandhotel.co.uk
Mainland, convenient for Skybus from Newquay Airport
EXETER, DEVON This small Cathedral City is vibrant and packed full of history dating back to the Roman times. You’ll find culture, fascinating visitor attractions, a contemporary mix of shopping consisting of popular high street brands and one-off boutiques. Just 10 miles from the city is part of the South West Coast Path and on the outskirts of the city – Haldon Forest.
Mainland, convenient for Skybus from Newquay Airport
Do you have a holiday property you’d like to list on our directory? It’s completely free – get in touch with our marketing team. Email: marketing@issg.co.uk to find out how you can list your accommodation.
Larkbeare Grange B&B Exeter
Tumbling Weir Hotel Exeter
larkbeare.net
tumblingweirhotel.co.uk
Mainland, convenient for Skybus from Exeter Airport
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Mainland, convenient for Skybus from Exeter Airport
Safety
We engage with internal and external parties and embrace constructive challenge.
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100 years on we’re still ‘ Delivering for Scilly’ Recently, we worked with more than 200 team members to help shape our company’s mission, vision, and values. It turns out our aims are much the same as when we were founded on the Isles of Scilly, back in 1920. A hundred years ago, the people of the Isles of Scilly founded a company to provide reliable transport to and from the mainland. Today, you’re travelling with that same company. Yes, we’re a little bigger now; as well as our original ferry line, we run Land’s End Airport, fly aeroplanes, and even sell coffee.
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Respect We treat each other with respect and dignity.
Eight things we’ll do to get there We’re only human, and providing offshore travel can be challenging; we can’t claim to live up to our mission, vision, and values all the time. But we’re striving to – and here are eight ways we’ll deliver for Scilly in the near future.
6. Communicate better with passengers and our team, and listen to the community
1. Bring new friends to Scilly so more people fall in love with the islands, all year round
8. Find new services that align with what we do, and help us to serve Scilly better
2. Improve our freight service with new equipment, and make our service simpler
You’re needed on this voyage As our passenger, you have an important role to play too. To work towards our ambition of delivering an excellent transport service, we need to know what we’re doing well – and what we can still improve. And that’s where you come in. We need your feedback, your suggestions, and your ideas. If there’s an area where we’re not living up to our promises – or if we’re going above and beyond – please let us know.
3. Keep costs down by focusing on what we’re good at, and getting things right first time 4. Plan ahead and invest for the future, so we’re always ready to deliver for Scilly 5. Invest in our people through training, so they’re able to provide a brilliant service
7. Line up our schedules with other transport services, so onward journeys are easy
Beautiful clothing, footwear & accessories woven with stories of Cornwall
Garrison Lane, St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly, TR21 0JD | T: 01720 422030 1-3 Adelaide Street, Penzance, Cornwall, TR18 2ES | T: 01736 364369
seasaltcornwall.co.uk