S Magazine | Issue 8 | 2022 by Isles of Scilly Steamship Company

ISSUE 08 | 2022

Isles of Scilly YO U R I S L A N D G U I D E

MAGAZINE

A TASTE OF SCILLY

KEEPING A LIGHTHOUSE

A WHALE OF A TIME

Think food metres rather than food miles - find out more about the flourishing food industry on Scilly.

An insider perspective of the work that goes into maintaining Scilly’s lighthouses.

If you’re sailing with us on board Scillonian III, the chances are you’ll spot some form of wildlife from the deck.

Travel Isles of Scilly

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IS LE S O F SCI LLY

Every activity comes with a stunning view.

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Welcome to the 2022 edition of S-Magazine, our exclusive magazine for Scillonian and Skybus passengers. Inside you’ll find tips, guides and insiderknowledge to make the most of your time on Scilly. Escapism and adventure – two words that have never been so important to travellers.

MAGAZINE

In this post-Covid world, more of us than ever are seeking wide open spaces and places devoid of crowds. But at the same time, we’re not willing to give up on our hunger for adventure. That’s where the Isles of Scilly really comes into its own. Peace, seclusion and tranquillity are a given in Scilly. But adventure is always close by, should you want it.

Isles of Scilly Steamship Company Limited, Steamship House, Quay Street, Penzance Cornwall TR18 4BZ S Magazine is produced by Isles of Scilly Steamship Group inhouse communications team. T +44 (0) 1736 334240 marketing@islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Editor | Sharon Sandercock Thanks to all those who have contributed images for this publication. Opinions expressed are the authors’ and not necessarily those of the Company. Whilst every effort is made to ensure total accuracy Isles of Scilly Steamship Group cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions within this magazine.

IS LE S O F SCI LLY

Scilly is as safe as it gets and we are delighted to welcome customers old and new in 2022. With endless nature trails and walking routes, near empty beaches and uninhabited islands, the word “overcrowded” has never been one associated with the islands. It really isn’t an exaggeration to say it is easy to find your own piece of paradise, somewhere to have entirely to yourself, whether that be a beach or a walk. Understandably, many people are still cautious about going on holiday. That’s why we offer flexible booking. This gives you the reassurance that your booking will be protected if you need to make changes, giving you the ability to travel with confidence. Plans can change for all of us now, so our flexi ticket allows you to amend bookings right up to 48 hours before departure. Please be reassured that your health and safety remains our utmost priority. We hope you enjoy visiting the islands and everything they have to offer. If you are traveling with us today, we wish you a pleasant journey.

IS LE S O F SCI LLY

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SITES HISTORIC lago. SCILLY ’S ological archipe e a An arch

BIRDS OF SCILLY Birding the Atlantic edg

S U P P O RT PROU D TO Wildlife Trust. lly ci S Isles of

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TIM E A WHALE OF A on Scillonian III. g Wildlife spottin

ISL AN D PROD UCE A food lover ’s paradise.

W O N TH E Watersp

SCILLY S N Your isla APS nd photo s.

SCILLON IAN With Unique DAY TRIPS hideaways.

THE For M

2022 S-MAGAZINE

Contents

WATER cilly. nS ports o

THE ISLANDS Through the seasons

ON THE WATER Watersports on Scilly

SCILLY SNAPS Your island photos

PROUD TO SUPPORT Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust

ISLAND PRODUCE A food lover’s paradise

BIRDS OF SCILLY Birding the Atlantic edge

SCILLONIAN DAY TRIPS With Unique hideaways

KEEPING A LIGHTHOUSE Bishop Rock insider

STAY ON THE ISLANDS Accommodation guide

PROUD TO SUPPORT The Island Haven

SCILLONIAN IV New vessel plans revealed

SCILLY’S HISTORIC SITES An archaeological archipelago

THE END OF AN ERA For Master Peter Crawford

A WHALE OF A TIME Wildlife spotting on Scillonian III

A TRIP OF A LIFETIME Wildlife tours with Joe Pender

SOMETHING SPECIAL Send a little bit of Scilly home

ONE HUNDRED YEARS An illustrated history of the company

WHAT’S ON GUIDE Reasons to visit Scilly

KEEPING A LIG HTHO Bishop Rock insider. US E

END OF AN ERA Master Peter Craw ford . ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 5

S P R I N G on Scilly -

S U M M E R on Scilly -

The Isles of Scilly are blessed with an earlier arrival of spring. Scilly enjoys a climate that’s warmer and brighter than the on the mainland, even at the tail end of what you’d traditionally call the ‘winter months’.

So many of our visitors who return to Scilly year after year hold fond memories of summers spent on these beautiful islands. This time of year the islands are as close to busy as they get and are buzzing with activity. Every activity comes with a stunning view.

SKYBUS SCILLONIAN III (FROM MAR.)

The arrival of spring awakens the islands from their sleepier, colder months with bursts of colour as the flora and fauna starts to bloom. But for us, and on the islands, one sure signal of spring is when Scillonian III returns to service. The islands really start to come alive with the arrival of some of the very first visitors for the year, ready to make memories on their island adventure.

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SKYBUS SCILLONIAN III

Explore the secluded beaches or swim with seals. Go kayaking or hop between the islands by boat. Spend long days exploring outside, feeling the sand between your toes and spending time with family and friends.

A U T U M N on Scilly -

W I N T E R on Scilly -

Experience a different Scilly with every season. Autumn offers a much quieter and wilder time on the islands.

We first start to welcome the arrival of winter in November, after the momentous final Scillonian III sailing of the year. Our much loved passenger ferry may be resting and preparing for the next season, but this by no means marks the end of adventures to be had on the islands.

SKYBUS SCILLONIAN III (ENDS NOV.)

The season is ablaze with wonderful warm hues and blessed with the warmth of summer extending through to the early autumn days. As the islands are near to the Gulf Stream, they are warmer than the mainland which makes them a haven for migrating birds. The days are still warm enough to spend outdoors enjoying the spectacular scenery. You might choose to ramble from the beach to a bar where you can enjoy slow cooked, local food or you might just sit and watch one of the most amazing sunsets you will ever see.

SKYBUS (FROM LAND’S END ONLY)

Our Skybus passenger flights operate from Land’s End throughout the whole of the year, giving you the opportunity to get a true taste of island life. For us winter on Scilly is about wrapping up for crisp sunrise beach walks, stargazing and marvelling at some of the darkest skies in the UK or hunkering down in a cosy pub by the fire.

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YOUR SCILLY YOUR PHOTOS TAKEN ON TRIPS TO

Scilly

We love seeing your photos of beautiful Scilly. Share your photos on social media and don’t forget to tag us!

EMILY JACK & TOM STEPHENS TRESCO, October

DEANNA LYONS TRESCO, January

ANN SMEATON TRESCO, September

ANGELA PALIN ST MARY’S, September

SUE BOXALL ST AGNES, October

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REBECCA BOSTOCK ST MARTIN’S, September

TERTIA KEEP ST MARTIN’S, June

@MAGICINSUFFOLK BRYHER, September

LUCY MCROBERT ST MARY’S from Skybus, March

GLENN SEDGWICK ST MARY’S

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THE ISLANDS

Bryher

Bryher has a bit of everything: a rugged, Atlantic side with dramatic coastline and, occasionally, waves to match. But its sheltered, eastern shores, looking across to Tresco, are sandy and calm.

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ISL A N D PRODUCE

ISLES OF SCILLY a food lover’s paradise The Isles of Scilly are more about food metres than food miles. Few places in the world can claim to be home to more local produce than Scilly, where food and drink is grown, fished and nurtured. Ingredients may travel from one island to the next, but that’s about it. It’s the ultimate in ethical eating.

exciting new businesses popping up every season. Ingredients grown and produced on Scilly include rum, wine, chilli, salt, beef, gin and fudge.

In this food lover’s paradise, surrounded by the bountiful ocean and clean, natural environment, ingredients are often dug out of the ground or plucked from the sea within hours of being on your plate.

and what makes their products so special.

From farmers to fishermen, we go behind-the-scenes with a producer from each of the five main inhabited islands, finding out about the challenges they face

What’s more, it’s likely you will bump into them on your travels around the islands and watch them at work.

The islands’ food industry has flourished in recent years, with

TOP TIP

Book in advance Trying some Scilly produce during a visit is a must. If there is a cafe or restaurant on your bucket list for your stay - make sure you book a table in advance.

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ISL A N D PRODUCE

ST MARY ’ S Salakee Farm Salakee Farm is a very special place. It’s not only a multi-enterprise farm, but also promotes a more natural, regenerative approach to farming.

We caught up with the Mumford family who have run the farm for three generations...

high-welfare ducks, 100% grass fed Dexter cows, a flock of chickens and no-dig vegetables in the market garden. In 2019 they planted 500 native fruit, nut and hedgerow tree species for an agroforestry project; they supply the islands with turkeys at Christmas and have a food forest filled with fruit trees – packing a lot into their 35 acres.

Kylie and Dave believe strongly in farming in harmony with nature and use practices which Sheltered in 35 acres near Porth enrich the soil, protect water Hellick, on St Mary’s, Salakee and increase biodiversity. By has been farmed by the rotating their animals around Mumford family for three the fields, not only is the land generations. given a chance to rest and heal, Since 2014, Kylie and Dave, who but the animals have access to grew up on the farm, have been the freshest grass and bugs. repairing its degraded soils, “It’s important to us that we are while producing nutrient-dense best custodians of this land that food for the island community. we can be,” said Kylie. “We are The couple, along with their only here for a short while, but children Lily, 14; Artie, 3 and we want to farm with future baby Solomon, are raising generations in mind.

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“Agroecological farming is something we are always learning more about and constantly researching, including a lot of trial and error on our part. This method of farming focuses on the natural relationships between plants, animals, people and their environment. “With climate change now being so prominent, we are really trying to do our bit for the earth. Although small sequestrating carbon, building soil and growing food for our community is something we believe is really important. “We grow everything from carrots to salad, tomatoes to celery, aubergines to herbs,” said Kylie. “We supply duck meat, beef, eggs and vegetables to many restaurants and cafes and help run the produce market on St Mary’s.” How far has your food travelled to get to your plate?

RECIPE

Duck Pancakes INGREDIENTS: One whole duck A few packs of Chinese style pancakes A couple of cucumbers A bunch of spring onions Hoisin or plum sauce

METHOD: Take the giblets out of the duck. Place on a roasting dish with a rack (or just pour the fat out every now and then - keep this for future frying/roasting) and roast in the oven for 3.5 hours on 150’. (or a little higher if it’s not crisping). Turn it up for 20 mins at the end to crisp up that skin, or, if like us you have Rayburn just leave it in until it looks nice and golden. Once cooked, take out of the oven, and shred the duck (best way to do this is pull the meat away from the carcass with a couple of forks). If you are organised, you can always do this the day before. Chop the cucumber into matchstick type strips as small as you have the patience for. The same for the spring onion. Warm the pancakes up in the oven for about 1-2 mins. Or follow instructions on the packet. All that is needed is to turn your phone off, sit round the table or on the beach and enjoy each other’s company, and the competition of who can make the best pancake. To make up the pancake, put a small amount of hoisin/plum sauce on the pancake, add some duck, cucumber, and spring onion onto the pancake. Roll up and enjoy.

WWW.SALAKEEFARM.CO.UK

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ISL A N D PRODUCE

ST MARTIN ’ S The Island Bakery The humble Cornish pasty can really divide opinion. Traditional or alternative ingredients? White or black pepper? A knob of butter or clotted cream? Crimping on top or on the side? Carrots or no carrots? “When I first took over the bakery, one of the first recipes I wanted to get right was the Cornish pasty,” said Barney McLachlan, owner of The Island Bakery, on St Martin’s.

happy with and most importantly it tasted great.

“I’m basically saying feel free to

“I prefer to cube my vegetables rather than slicing them. I use a pastry margarine as shortening for the pastry. When I’m seasoning my pasties I prefer freshly ground black pepper from the pepper mill rather than ground white pepper. I don’t poke holes in the pasties before they’re cooked, I like to keep that steam trapped inside, I think it helps develop flavour and the textures in the pasty.

I’m at home I may add a blob of clotted cream to the pasty to create more of a gravy or make a lamb pasty then use mint instead of other seasoning. But in the shop, people expect the traditional version and to be honest it’s still my favourite.” Each morning Barney starts work at 4.30am to bake a selection of organic breads and rolls, as well as a weekly guest

bread; various pastries, tarts, “I run all my Cornish recipes past my friend and colleague Di pies, pizzas and homemade cakes. Goddard to ensure they are “Cornish enough”. If she agrees, But the pasties are the star of then they make the grade. the show. “I make around 50 a

“Pasties are such a personal thing. If you like the taste of your Granny’s pasties (and you “I looked up various recipes should!) then use and enjoy her including an old WI version recipe. I know people that make from 1945, took some advice four slightly different pasties for from some older islanders each family member. One of including Keith Lowe and then making a few very minor tweaks them likes to include carrot of my own found a recipe I was (very controversial).

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experiment and enjoy pasties. If

day through the main season, all from scratch,” he said. “I can’t remember a day this summer when we didn’t sell out. “Importantly, I get all the ingredients as locally as possible and make everything on the premises.”

RECIPE

Barney’s traditional Cornish pasty METHOD: Firstly, I make shortcrust pastry, using pastry margarine and strong white bread flour, salt and pepper. It’s lazy pastry, which means there are lumps of fat still in it when I roll it out. Cube the veg. The ratio I use is one half potato, one quarter swede and one quarter white turnip. Par boil the veg. Cut out pastry discs. I never really measure it, but mine are around 6/7 inches. Pile the veg onto half of the pastry. Then, add fried onion and finally raw beef skirt on top. Fold the pastry over. Then, I use a travelling crimp to seal.

enjoy.

THEISLANDBAKERY-STMARTINS.COM

“The secret of the bakery is that we love what we do and our customers can really feel that wonderful warmth.” ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 17

ISL A N D PRODUCE

ST AG N ES Troytown Farm Ice Cream It is difficult to put your finger on exactly what makes Troytown Farm ice cream so special. The luxurious texture and wonderful flavours would stand out anywhere in the world. But enjoying this heavenly treat surrounded by the fields, cows and friendly islanders who create it gives a wonderful feeling that this is how all food should be. Add in the heart-stoppingly beautiful location in which Troytown is blessed and it feels like a small slice of perfection.

farm. It is all made from the milk of 11 Jersey cows – selected not for the volume they produce but rather the creaminess of the milk. That’s the real secret – local high-quality ingredients. It comes in more than 40 different flavours, from the traditional to the more unusual such as licorice, coconut, Scilly cream tea, pistachio, St Agnes rose geranium and peanut butter. “Everyone has their favourite”, says Sam Hicks (personal favourite: salted caramel), who runs the farm with his wife Laura (ice cream of choice rum and raisin) and his parents. “Vanilla and chocolate remain the most popular overall,” Sam continues, “but people do experiment with the range. A great combination is a raspberry sorbet with chocolate, topped of course with a dollop of real farmhouse clotted cream.”

tiny fields which surround the dairy. The provenance can easily be observed as you stroll through the farm. Bales of hay stand piled, ready for winter feed. Calves skip around an enclosed paddock and the busy farm purrs with gentle activity. Milking is done twice a day in the yard, and the milk is simply carried around the corner to the dairy. Troytown deals in food metres, not miles. A team of hardworking ‘dairyfairies’ take over, separating the milk and cream before skillfully blending with sugar, egg, and flavourings. It takes just 15 minutes in a specialist machine which pasteurizes then churns and freezes the mixture, and it is ready for dispensing into tubs.

On a busy day the farm produces 150 litres of ice cream, much of it destined for the Ice cream only started at more than 30 outlets across Troytown in 2006 – a necessary The cows, including Daisy, Gem, Scilly – or even its furthest diversification to ensure the survival of Scilly’s only dairy Myansome and Belle, graze the stockist, Lands End Airport.

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RECIPE If you’re looking for inspiration for a delicious pudding incorporating Troytown Ice cream, try a Hicks family favourite:

Barbeque bananas METHOD: Slice open a banana lengthways and fill with chocolate buttons. Barbeque until the skin is black. Add a scoop of Banana, Baileys and Cinnamon, and another of chocolate. Top with a dollop of clotted cream and devour with a spoon whilst watching the sun go down.

“Theoretically the ice cream lasts for a year,” laughs Sam, “but demand is such that it is gone much quicker than that. It’s more than likely that the ice cream you’re eating was made the day before with milk from the cows that morning. How’s that for fresh! “We eat far too much ice cream ourselves. It’s not unusual for us to send the kids out to pinch a bit after tea – and they often bump into my dad, who lives next door, doing the same thing! We call it quality control… “It’s a privilege to farm in such a unique location. Looking out to Annet and Bishop Rock lighthouse it is just about as far as you can go on Agnes, Scilly or the UK for that matter. Our ice cream is the perfect reward for making it all the way here. You will have earned it.”

TROYTOWN.CO.UK/TROYTOWN-FARM-DAIRY

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ISL A N D PRODUCE

B RYH ER Island Fish The Pender family has been fishing out of Bryher for hundreds of years – in fact as far back as they can trace. As far as fishing goes, little has changed over the years.

footsteps of their ancestors, supplying lobster, crab wet fish and shellfish across the islands.

ancestors made it possible for us to follow in their footsteps and we believe it is our duty to Island Fish supplies restaurants, ensure the same for the next generation. hotels, and cafes across Scilly and sells direct to customers “Potting is a method that has from its café at Bar on Bryher little impact on the seabed and as well as delivering private has little, if any, by-catch. We orders across the islands. only use hand lines to catch

The catch is brought ashore daily. Work starts at 5am, when mother and daughter Sue, Every day from April to Amanda and rest of the team December father and son Mike, cook and painstakingly hand77, and Mark Pender, supported pick around 60 crabs ready to by 21-year-old Shamus Pender- be made into tempting treats Frazer, fish the waters around including crab quiche, chowder Scilly, dropping their pots and their best-selling potted anywhere from Bishop Rock to crab.. the Eastern Isles. “We sell real, Scillonian food on For decades, the catch of the a remote island. If we haven’t day was sold by a notice in the got it it’s probably because the window of the family home. But weather has been too bad to go in 2015, brother and sister Mark out to sea,” explained Amanda. and Amanda gave up their jobs “It is literally landed a few paces and Island Fish was born to from where we sell it – there are continue the proud family very few places in the world tradition. that can say that. Now, three generations of Penders are following in the

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“We are committed to the future of fishing in Scilly. Our

mackerel and pollack, so again, there is zero by-catch. “We live, work and play in Scilly and we are dedicated to strengthening our island community, not just for ourselves but for the next generation and our visitors’ children to enjoy. “For us, it’s all about family and pride in what we do, pride in our heritage and culture. We go above and beyond, which is reflected in everything we deliver. “Our magic ingredients are a superlative product, hard work and a passion for a way of life we all believe in and want to share with our customers.”

RECIPE

Sue’s Bryher Crab Quiche INGREDIENTS: 40g margarine 40g lard Pinch of salt 170g plain flour Water to mix 4 spring onions 100g white crab meat 3 eggs 1/4 pint evaporated milk 1/4 pint milk Cheese – to garnish Nutmeg Salt and pepper

METHOD: Grease a 6-inch quiche dish. Rub together the lard, margarine, flour and salt until well mixed. Add enough water to make a dough. Place on floured board and roll out, line your quiche dish. Slice the spring onions and place in the quiche case. Add the crab meat. Mix together both types of milk and eggs, add nutmeg for seasoning. Pour the mixture into the quiche case, sprinkle with cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Cook in the oven at 180 degrees celsius for approximately 30 to 40 minutes. Perfect hot or cold.

WWW.ISLANDFISH.CO.UK

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ISL A N D PRODUCE

TRESCO Bartek’s Market Garden In a small, hidden plot on Tresco lies a market garden filled with edible treasure. As fresh as it gets! Magda Malyszko and Bartek Wypyszynski lovingly tend their one acre allotment, full of vegetables, herbs and salad before it is shared with the island’s restaurants. The produce is eaten within a couple of miles from where it was grown, at the very most – often just a few hundred yards. And all within an hour or two. Now that’s fresh. The pair grew for themselves to begin with, trying to be as self-sufficient as possible. When they had a glut of something, they’d put it outside their home for islanders to help themselves to. They soon realised people loved it.

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Magda explained: “It’s not really a hobby, more of a passion. I have a gardening degree and Bartek is a born and bred farmer. “Our field is behind The New Inn, and we grow anything from potatoes and carrots to micro greens, herbs, cress and rocket. “Bartek shares it with the restaurants on the island – The Ruin, The New Inn and the Flying Boat Café. They will take as much rocket as we can grow, for sandwiches, pizzas, salads, you name it. “We also have a little honesty stall near the island office, which is really popular with islanders and visitors alike.” Magda, a spa therapist at Tresco Island Spa, and Bartek, the island’s freight manager, don’t use any chemicals whatsoever. Instead, they use as much mulch as possible to reduce water loss and control weeds, particularly seaweed and homemade compost.

They also use the No Dig method, which helps beneficial microorganisms to thrive in a non-disturbed environment – worms hate digging too! This – as well as crop rotation – promotes soil health and fertility. This year they are also experimenting with using fertiliser from the island’s biodigester, which takes all the food waste from Tresco and distils it down into a completely natural soil conditioner. “We’re hoping to expand and experiment,” said Magda. “This year we’re growing rainbow chard for the first time, and we’re looking forward to seeing how that goes. “Scilly has very sandy soil and it’s always interesting to see what grows and what doesn’t. I tried growing turnips and they just won’t grow, but I’ve never seen radishes as large as we can grow here!”

RECIPE

Scilly New Potato Salad Our advice is to keep it simple. Why complicate things? When the produce is this good, let it speak for itself. We used to help farmer Bruce Christopher at Boro Farm on Tresco, and he gave us the best recipe that we still love.

METHOD: Scilly new potatoes boiled with a sprig of mint; a lovely mixed leaf salad with a simple dressing; and perhaps some freshly picked crab from Island Fish over on Bryher. Perfect.

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Treat Yourself to an Authentic Curry Experience From one of London’s most exclusive Private Members’ Clubs

Select from a menu of freshly prepared signature dishes that reflect the traditions of the Oriental Club.

Simply re-heat and enjoy delicious Curries, ready in 10-20 minutes, during your holiday.

in partnership with

The Tanglewood Kitchen Company in partnership with Oriental Club Dine at Home Hugh Street, St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly TR21 0LR +44 (0) 7799 706573 | eat@tanglewoodkitchen.co.uk | www.tanglewoodkitchen.co.uk 24 | S MAGAZINE For UK Mainland orders, please visit www.orientalclubdineathome.com

We make jewellery on St Martin’s in the Isles of Scilly. Our work is a celebration of everything we love about living on an island. You can drop in to see what we do and browse our collections, our St Martin’s workshop is open Monday - Friday. Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 25 ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 25 WWW.FAYPAGE.CO.UK

SCILLONIAN III DAY TRIPPING

with

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ITINERARY SCILLONIAN III DAY TRIPPING &

Island Hopping

“The Isles of Scilly can only be described as a dream. When arriving at these crystal-clear waters and white sandy beaches, you almost feel as if you are hopping onto the soft sandy shores of a deserted Fijian island. You can’t quite believe you have discovered this secluded, faraway land just off the coast of Cornwall. Cornwall is of course, one of our favourite places to explore and it has to be one of the most beautiful places to visit in the UK, well in fact the world, but there’s something about the Isles of Scilly which is just otherworldly.” – Unique hideaways, Bethany Wotton Unique hideaways offer a collection of one-of-a-kind places to stay, with a love of the outdoors, exploring new places and embracing nature. With over 50 glamping sites in Cornwall, including cosy cabins, romantic shepherd’s huts and family sized safari tents. We welcomed them on board to show their guests a Scilly day trip and the sort of adventures you can embark on if visiting or staying in Cornwall.

Journey to Scilly via SCILLONIAN III

Arrival destination ST MARY’S

Inter-island boat to TRESCO

Beach stop at PENTLE BAY

Historic siteseeing THE OLD BLOCKHOUSE

Picnic spot RUIN BEACH

Explore TRESCO ABBEY GARDENS

Inter-island boat back to ST MARY’S

Return Journey via SCILLONIAN III

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ITINERARY SCILLONIAN III DAY TRIPPING

with

What we packed for our day trip to the Isles of Scilly Firstly, a good backpack is essential for a long day trip. Here’s what we packed for our day: CAMERA To capture all those picture-perfect moments. PICNIC Pack a picnic or grab some tasty treats from an island shop or café. We think lunch is best enjoyed sat with the sand between our toes. CASH Just in case - you might find a lovely little honesty stall or a boat that doesn’t accept card. SWIMMING COSTUME & TOWEL A summer essential. When the sun is shining you won’t be able to resist these tropical-looking waters. LAYERS AND SUNCREAM Prepare for all weathers - pack suncream, light layers and a waterproof. GINGER BISCUITS Rumoured to help should you feel a little sea sick!

ACCOMMODATION

Hideaway SPOTS NEAR PENZANCE HARBOUR

FOLLOW UNIQUEHIDEAWAYSUK @UNIQUEHIDEAWAYS @UNIQUEHIDEAWAYS

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The Hideaway Sleeps 4

Mount Lookout

Sleeps 4 | Dog friendly | Hot Tub

Mount View Sunrise Safari Tent Sleeps 6 | Dog friendly | Hot Tub

Foxglove

Sleeps 6 | Dog friendly | Hot Tub

AUTHOR: BETHANY WOTTON | Unique hideaways

We hopped aboard Scillonian III on a misty Monday morning and set sail at 9.15am to St Mary’s. We then travelled across the waters to the private island of Tresco and spent the day exploring this mystical land.

Our journey We arrived at Penzance Harbour ready to board Scillonian III. We chose to sit outside so we could spend the journey dolphin spotting. We were lucky enough to see several pods of these truly magical creatures on our journey. We set sail at 9.15 am and enjoyed views of Cornwall’s majestic coastline. We travelled past Mousehole, Lamorna Cove and Porthcurno before we left the land behind and awaited our arrival at St Mary’s around midday. It’s popular with day-trippers to stay put on gorgeous St Mary’s, however here at Unique hideaways, we do like to live life a little more off-the-well-worn path, so we made the decision to hop aboard the Seahorse Scilly and head to Tresco. We shared this journey with just two other passengers, which made it feel like our own private voyage to a secret island.

Exploring Tresco Arriving at Carn Near Quay and onto the white sandy shores of Tresco was a dream. It felt as if we had the whole island to ourselves. There are no cars on Tresco, which makes it even more peaceful, a world away from everyday realities. We walked along the dusty roads which were lined by the iconic Tresco agapanthus. Off the path and onto the softest, glittery sand of Pentle Bay. A long, secluded stretch of aqua waters perfect for those who love a lazy day, reading their book on the beach. As we were only here for a day trip, we wanted to make sure we covered as much of the island as possible, so we continued our adventure by foot, onto the Old Blockhouse. This historical structure was created as part of a collection of forts built around the Isles of Scilly during the reigns of Edward VI and Mary and used to protect the island. As well as its unique history, the views from the fascinating landmark are truly

mesmerising. You look right out to St Martin’s Island and down to Old Grimsby, the hub of Tresco.

Stopping for lunch We wandered down the hill and into the heart of the island. Postcard pretty cottages line the sandy roads which sit footsteps away from the beach. Every direction you look you want to stop and take a picture; it really is just so beautiful. Onto Raven Porth which is where we stopped to have our picnic. We purchased hot coffees and some delicious homemade cakes at The Ruin beach café, which serves fresh tasty meals and has a wonderful outside seating area overlooking the beach. A perfect spot for lunch if you didn’t pack a picnic. From here we headed across the island past St Nicolas Church and onto Tresco Post Office. A well-stocked shop, full of island goodies, such as Tresco Abbey Garden Gin & Scilly Honey Spiced rum, a perfect tipple over ice and a little lime. Onwards to The New Inn, a lovely pub full of unique charm and an abundance of character. Serving scrumptious, quality, hearty pub grub and lots of fresh local fish.

Tresco Abbey Gardens We then cut along Abbey Road (I love that these beaten tracks are called roads, despite no motor vehicles being used on the island) and had a quick look at Tresco Abbey Garden. When we next return to the Isles of Scilly we’d like to spend more time exploring these tropical gardens. Past the mosaic of floral displays and interesting sculptures and onwards to Apple Tree Bay, another idyllic beach around the island to sit and watch the world go by.

Heading home We took our time as we slowly strolled back to Carn Near Quay, wishing we could just pause the clock and stay on this fairy tale island for a little while longer. The Seahorse Scilly arrived at 3.45 pm and dropped us safely back to St Mary’s where we stepped straight aboard Scillonian III in time to set sail back to Cornwall at 4.30 pm. The journey back was spent searching the shores for more dolphins which we were lucky enough to see. The perfect end to a dream day of exploring this truly idyllic, special and unspoilt corner of our planet. ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 29

Day Trip Options

DAY TRIPS to the magical

Isles of Scilly with

SCILLONIAN III - 2 hr 45min Set sail from Penzance and soak up the spectacular sight of the Cornish coastline, spotting landmarks like the world-renowned open air Minack Theatre, the famous Porthcurno cove and the Land’s End peninsula. TOP TIP: Look out for our Saturday double sailings in July & August giving you an extra 3.5 hours on the islands. SKYBUS - 20min Skybus is the fastest year-round service flying to and from the Isles of Scilly. The journey takes just 20 minutes from Land’s End Airport.

RIPS DAY T om fr

£35

TOP TIP: Make the most of your day trip by getting the earliest flight out and the latest back, giving you over 8 hours on the Isles of Scilly.

IL FLY | SA

FLY + SAIL - 20min | 2hr 45min Experience Skybus and Scillonian III in a single break; fly out to the Isles of Scilly, then sail back. Flying out cuts down your journey time, giving you more time for exploring. Sailing back into Penzance is a relaxed way to end your trip, looking out for sea life and enjoying the views of the Cornish coast.

2022 Day Trip Fares

TOP TIP:

For more information and to book day trips to the Isles of Scilly please go to our website.

Standard (12+)

Scillonian III

Skybus

Fly + Sail

DAY TRIP RETURN PENZANCE

DAY TRIP RETURN LAND’S END

DAY TRIP RETURN LAND’S END | PENZANCE

from

£35

from

£127.00

from

Park in Penzance and book onto our handy transfer to the airport. When you return, you’ll be back where you started and ready to continue your journey home.

£88

ST MARTIN’S BRYHER

Child (2-11)

from

£15

Infant (0-1)

from

£10

from from

£102.50

from

£66.75

£45.50

from

£33.75

DID YOU KNOW? Pets are welcome on board both Skybus and Scillonian III for as little as £10 per dog, but space is limited so booking 30 | S MAGAZINE early is advised.

TRESCO

ST MARY’S

ST AGNES

• Restaurant with panoramic sea views • Spacious lounge bar • Free WiFi for all guests • Luxury bedrooms, many with sea views • 6 self catering cottages • Garden terrace for al fresco dining • Cornish Cream Teas

Rooms with a view… and what a glorious view it is. Tregarthen’s must have the most glorious setting of any hotel on St Mary’s, right by the water’s edge, just yards from the quay. The perfect base for your break on Scilly.

www.tregarthens.com | 01720 422540 | Located just above the Harbour on St Mary’s 01814 Tregarthen's Half Page Landscape S Ad .indd 1

15/03/2022 16:52

Book now for 2023

Steamship Flat HUGH TOWN, ST.MARY’S www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk

ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 31

Visit the

Isles of Scilly With stopovers in Cornwall and Devon Whether you are visiting the Isles of Scilly for a day trip or longer break, or staying near to one of our departure points in Exeter, Newquay or west Cornwall, we have a selection of accommodation to suit all budgets and tastes. With hotels, bed and breakfasts, self-catering cottages and campsites, there’s a place for you to feel at home, wherever you are in your journey.

Do you have a holiday property you’d like to list on our directory? It’s completely free – get in touch with our marketing team. Email: marketing@issg.co.uk to find out how you can list your accommodation.

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Stay on the

Isles of Scilly Why not combine Scilly with Cornwall or Devon as part of a twin-centre break? Devon, Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly are a haven for outdoor lovers. A twin-centre holiday gives you a chance to discover the length and breadth of the south west in one trip. The Isles of Scilly Five islands you can stay on and countless more to explore. The Isles of Scilly share a common atmosphere, perspective, and pace of life. Each island has its own unique charms – and you’ll quickly find a favourite - a quiet bond with one island that feels that little bit more special than the others. But there’s no rush: after all you’ll have five inhabited islands and countless deserted ones to explore. St Mary’s On St Mary’s, you’ll be as close as the Isles of Scilly gets to being busy. Hugh Town is the main centre for all the local services and it’s the island where you’ll arrive. This is where you’ll find most of the shops and the boats on to other islands. With beaches, shopping, countryside paths and coastal trails – there’s always something new to try. Tresco Tresco is best defined by the Abbey Garden: its world-renowned, 19th century garden and home to some 20,000 sub-tropical plants. Like anywhere on the Isles of Scilly, though, Tresco also has its share of beaches, panoramas and secluded spots.

Bryher Bryher has a bit of everything: a rugged Atlantic side with dramatic coastline and occasionally, waves to match. But its sheltered, eastern shores, looking across to Tresco, are sandy and calm. On some tides, you can even make the crossing on foot. You’ll also find sweeping views, a well-known artist’s studio and some of the islands’ most sought-after eating experiences. St Martin’s The only difficult thing about a stay on St. Martin’s is deciding which beach you’ll visit. You’ll find white, sandy coves that slope gently into crystal-clear water. You’ll also find great local food, artisan bread, the island’s famous flower farm and its own winery. For a truly once-in-a lifetime memory, the chance to go snorkelling surrounded by Atlantic Grey seals. St Agnes The tip of the British Isles. To the south west, there’s nothing but Bishop Rock Lighthouse and three thousand miles of ocean. It’s unspoiled – with mysterious, Bronze Age archaeology, and rare birds brought in on the Atlantic currents. It’s also home to a community of 72 people, the famous Turk’s Head pub, and creamy Troytown Farm ice cream – made by just 11 cows.

ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 33

These are just a selection of the properties available on our accommodation directory, for the full selection visit islesofscilly-travel.co.uk /accommodation-home

KARMA

St. Martin’s www.karmagroup.com Island, convenient for Skybus and Scillonian from St Mary’s

Search by island or mainland departure point. Distances from departure points to the Isles of Scilly Wide range of accommodation to suit all budgets.

TREGARTHEN’S St Mary’s www.tregarthens.com Island, convenient for Skybus and Scillonian from St Mary’s

WEST CORNWALL

COASTAL GAZE

Near Penzance www.uniquehideaways.com Mainland, convenient for Skybus from Land’s End and Scillonian from Penzance

ARTISTS RESIDENCE

Penzance artistresidence.co.uk/our-hotels/cornwall Mainland, convenient for Skybus from Land’s End and Scillonian from Penzance

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ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 35

UPDATE INVESTING FOR THE

Future

We are taking a major step towards the future, with exciting plans afoot for a new f leet of vessels. Here is everything you need to know..

ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK/NEW-VESSEL-REPLACEMENT

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As well as taking tens of thousands of people on holiday each year, our sea links provide a lifeline to the community and businesses on the Isles of Scilly and we want to futureproof – and enhance – the service we provide. We’re planning to replace our iconic passenger ferry, Scillonian III; our dedicated cargo ship Gry Maritha and our inter-island vessel Lyonesse Lady, with new state-of-the-art ships. They will be resilient, reliable, affordable and will reduce journey time to the islands (even better for day trips!). Scillonian IV, our striking new 72m passenger ferry will carry 600 passengers over three decks with a contemporary, comfortable seating arrangement, onboard coffee shop and retail area. Journey time will be just over two hours, thanks to speeds of up to 18 knots. Anti-roll fins will improve the stability of the crossing; there will be improved access for passengers with reduced mobility; more space to carry cargo and a hybrid propulsion system will reduce emissions. In fact, green technology is at the heart of the new designs. We aspire to minimise environmental impact at the earliest opportunity whilst ensuring the reliability and resilience of our vital lifeline service. In future, we want to have the ability to adapt and modify the chosen propulsion system to ensure we meet the Government’s target of decarbonisation of the marine sector by 2050 and to keep the vessels aligned with evolving environmentally friendly technology. We are hugely proud of the designs for the new ships and hope they will serve generations of travellers for years to come.

THE COUNCIL OF THE ISLES OF SCILLY HAS BEEN SUCCESSFUL IN SECURING £48.4M TOWARDS THE COST OF REPLACING THE SHIPS.

ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 37

THINGS TO DO LET’S GO

Paddling With over 150 kilometres of coastline to explore, and some of the highest coastal sea temperatures in the UK, Scilly is a dream destination for watersport enthusiasts.

ISLAND St Martin’s

SPORT Paddle Boarding

EXPERIENCE

TIME 1 - 2 Hours

Highlights: • DISCOVERING SEA CREATURES IN THE SEA GRASS BED NURSERIES • SEEING POPULAR VIEWPOINTS FROM A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE • GREAT FOR NOVICES

Whatever your experience you can plan the perfect adventure out on the water. All the inhabited islands have businesses you can hire equipment from. We’ve put together some of our favourite tours:

St Martin’s Watersports • STAND-UP PADDLE BOARDING • KAYAKING

Location Par Beach, opposite Higher Town Quay, St Martin’s

Contact 07470711857 info@stmartinswatersports.co.uk www.stmartinswatersports.co.uk

TOP TIP When hiring equipment for the day you’ll receive a 15% discount voucher to use at the Island Bakery on St Martin’s

38 | SS MAGAZINE MAGAZINE

Par Beach is the perfect place to try paddle boarding for the first time. To begin with stay close to the sheltered shoreline, it’s an ideal area to practice your new skills. Once you have built up your confidence there are plenty of things to see. Paddle to the far end of the beach where you’ll find several patches of sea grass to explore. Being on a paddle board means you’ll have great views down into the water. See if you can spot flatfish, anemones or a rare stalked jellyfish as the sea grass beds act as nurseries for their young. From here paddle through the moorings and around Cruther’s Hill, giving busy Higher Town Quay a very wide birth. Continue following the shoreline to Old Quay, to see this very popular spot from a different perspective. From Old Quay carry on past Lawrences and Campsite beaches and explore the rocky ledges along the southern shore of St Martin’s before heading back to Par beach. Depending on the tide the water can get very shallow here and this will dictate where you can paddle.

ISLAND St Martin’s and the Eastern Isles EXPERIENCE

SPORT Kayaking TIME 3 Hours

Highlights: • HAVE A CURIOUS SEAL COME AND CHECK YOU OUT • VISITING 3 BEAUTIFUL UNINHABITED ISLANDS • EXPLORING A SANDBAR AND BOULDER CAUSEWAY AT LOW TIDE Kayaking from Par Beach on St Martin’s gives you the opportunity to visit some of the uninhabited Eastern Isles. There are three you can land on and explore - Nornour, Little Arthur and parts of Great Ganilly. Depending on conditions it will take you around 25 minutes to paddle to them. The first island to kayak to is Nornour, the sandy beach you land on is close to an archaeological site. Roman and earlier finds were excavated from circular stone buildings in the 1960s, which included hundreds of beautiful brooches. Walk up the hill on Nornour and you’ll have fabulous views across to the mainland. At low tide there is a boulder causeway joining Nornour to Great Ganilly. Get back into your kayak and paddle towards Great Ganilly, you will often see seals in the water. They are naturally inquisitive animals and will often follow your kayak. If you do see seals, stay quiet and paddle along gently, don’t change your course and head directly towards the seals. The island of Great Ganilly is made up of two hills with beaches on the east and west side. The most easterly hill is closed to the public by the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust, to protect seabirds and seals. During early April and September seals haul out on the beach on the north side and it is important not to go near during this time as you risk disturbing them. Carry on paddling towards the island of Little Arthur. The beach you land on is a favourite spot for picnics and watching the sunset. The island is made up of three parts Little, Middle and Great Arthur. The stony causeway between Middle and Great Arthur is a good spot for beach combing. The high ground to the east of the island is closed to the public during the bird breeding season. If it’s low tide and you have time before heading back to St Martin’s, we recommend you explore the sandbar that becomes exposed off the island of Little Ganilly. It takes 15 minutes to paddle to and it’s great fun to explore knowing it will soon be submerged again.

ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 39

THINGS TO DO LET’S GO

Paddling

St Agnes Watersports • STAND-UP PADDLE BOARDING • KAYAKING • SNORKELLING

Location Located right next to Troytown Farm Campsite on St Agnes

Contact 01720 423207 agneswatersports@gmail.com www.agneswatersports.co.uk

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ISLAND St Agnes

SPORT Kayaking

ISLAND St Agnes

SPORT Paddle Boarding

EXPERIENCE

TIME 3+ Hours

EXPERIENCE

TIME 1.5 - 2 Hours

Highlights: • HAVING A DRINK AT THE TURKS HEAD PUB • SWIMMING AND SNORKELLING AT PORTH ASKIN BEACH • SPOTTING PUFFINS AND SEALS ON ANNET

Highlights: • WATCHING SHOALS OF FISH SWIMMING IN KELP FORESTS • EXPLORING IMPRESSIVE ROCK FORMATIONS • SPOTTING SEALS BOBBING IN THE WATERS

Starting from St Agnes Watersports at

At Bergecooth start your paddle from St

Bergecooth, kayak out over the kelp forests.

Agnes Watersports, stick close to the

As you go round the tip of Burnt Island, you’ll

shoreline and head towards the golden sandy

see magnificent, weathered rock formations.

bay of Periglis.

Continue to paddle around the beautiful

In the crystal-clear water spot shoals of fish

coastline to the harbour of Porth Conger. We

amongst the kelp as you paddle round the

recommend you stop here for a drink and a light lunch at the famous Turks Head. Once you manage to tear yourself away from the idyllic pub, your kayaking adventure continues over the sand bar to the southern tip of St Agnes – Beady Pool and Horse Point. Porth Askin is the next picturesque beach you’ll come across and it’s the perfect place

bay. Head towards the rocky outcrop known as Burnt Island. From here you’ll be able to see the island of Annet, a sanctuary for seabirds and in the distance the rugged Western Rocks. Paddle north of Burnt Island and you’ll have a close-up view of the fantastic rock formations carved out from centuries of Atlantic swells. Continue around the coast to Porth Coose

to take a refreshing dip or go snorkelling in

where you might be lucky enough to spot one

the sparkling water.

of the local seals feeding or relaxing on this

As you kayak past Troytown Maze, take in the

secluded beach.

views of Bishop Rock lighthouse and the

Have a little rest and chill out on your board

Western Rocks. Choose to extend your

listening to the sounds of the sea and of bird

adventure and paddle to Annet to see puffins

song before following the stunning coastline

and seals before heading back to Bergecooth.

back to where you started from.

ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 41

THE ISLANDS

Tresco

Tresco is best defined by the Abbey Garden: its world-renowned, 19th century garden and home to some 20,000 sub-tropical plants. Like anywhere on the Isles of Scilly, though, Tresco also has its share of beaches, panoramas and secluded spots.

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ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 43

PHOTO: BAREFOOT PHOTOGRAPHER

Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust (IOSWT) is an island-based conservation charity that manages and maintains much of Scilly’s landscapes for the benefit of wildlife and for people to enjoy. Whether you’re an islander or a visitor you’ll agree that the natural beauty and biodiversity makes Scilly extra-special.

Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust Marine Ranger,

The charity’s core mission is to protect, enhance and create sustainable, nature-rich habitats across the archipelago, on both land and sea.

clocking up a total of 4312 nautical miles and

Without its work, many of Scilly’s ancient monuments would become overgrown, hidden and damaged by impenetrable vegetation; paths would also become overgrown preventing access to coastal walks and the many beauty spots; many important local species would become threatened and possibly lost to the detriment of Scilly.

of our website booking pages allowing voluntary

In 2019 we entered a partnership with IOSWT to help raise vital funds for its critical work here in Scilly. 44 | S MAGAZINE

Natalie, travelled on board Scillonian III to offer passengers information about wildlife on Scilly and the work carried out by the charity, as well as collecting donations. Natalie completed a total of 98 sailings (44 from Penzance to Scilly and back again from Scilly to Penzance), spoke to more than 2000 individuals! The partnership also included the development donations to be made when booking travel with us. In November 2021, we reached a milestone £60,000 which is down to kind-hearted customers making a voluntary donation to the charity’s fundraising efforts. The total continues to grow, and at present (31st March 2022) sits at a massive £69,129! Julian Branscombe, Chief Executive of the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust, said: “Our partnership

CHARITY PROUD TO

support

with the Isles of Scilly Steamship Group is vital to us, and we know that the focus of our work is what so many visitors to the Isles of Scilly really cherish.

Thank you

“We couldn’t do all this without support from the travellers who have generously donated when they book Skybus flights or passage on Scillionian III. Thank you very much indeed!” Stuart Reid, Chief Executive of the Isles of Scilly Steamship Company, said: “We really are delighted to be supporting the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust in this way. Our passengers are attracted to the islands because of their unspoilt beauty, so it’s no wonder they donate so generously to the Wildlife Trust. “£60,000 is a significant amount of money and it just goes to show how much our customers value the fantastic work the Wildlife Trust does. We are

£69,129 RAISED SO FAR Your donations will continue to go towards supporting Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust and its vital conservation work. A huge thank you goes out to all of our customers who have donated.

passionate about supporting these unique and beautiful islands in any way we can.” ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK || 45 45 ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK

BA R EFO P H OTO :

OG OT P H OT

R APH ER

Keeping Wally the walrus safe

P H OTO : N ATA L IE R ANCE

Winter habitat management

Back in July last year (2021) the Isles of Scilly

Throughout the winter months, IOSWT spend a

was greeted with an unexpected visitor,

lot of its time carrying out important habitat

nicknamed ‘Wally the Walrus’. The Isles of Scilly

management across Scilly’s iconic landscapes.

Wildlife trust worked closely with British Divers

Money received via Isles of Scilly Travel customer

Marine Life Rescue (BDMLR) along with liaising

donations enables the Trust to have this focus.

with statutory agencies (including Natural

This vital work has included:

England and MMO), stakeholders and world

•Reed bed and wetland management – habitat

experts to help ensure that Wally remained safe

management and restoration, including

for the duration of his ‘stay’.

rotational cutting of our reed beds and

IOSWT, the island community representatives

coppicing of willows; benefitting both animal

and supporting organisations teamed up to

and plant species (bog pimpernel returned after

share concerns, advice, expertise, best practices a 68 year absence). and mitigation actions to minimise all impacts on •Tean – habitat restoration, including areas of the walrus, property and livelihoods. coastal grassland benefitting Scilly specialities It was thought that Wally had come from

such as the Dwarf pansy.

Svalbard (north of Norway) – over 3200km from

•Gugh – Habitat restoration, including areas of the Isles of Scilly. A specific customised pontoon coastal crassland benefitting Scilly specialities was constructed to enable Wally to rest safely such as Orange birds-foot and Balm-leaved before his return home.

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figwort.

CHARITY PROUD TO

support

P H OTO :

DA R R E N

HART

Rosehill ponds, nature gardens & Porthloo meadow In 2017/18 the charity benefited from funding from our Community Fund scheme which enabled it to create a number of wildlife ponds. Since this time the money received via Isles of Scilly Travel customer donations has enabled IOSWT to maintain this area and expand it. Further ponds have been created as well as Porthloo Meadow being enhanced for wildlife; with planting of wildflowers, seeds sown, and additional scrapes (wet areas) being created earlier this year. This work has resulted in an area that is now a haven for nature and bursting with life, including an abundance of frogs, wildflowers, dragonflies, butterflies, and bees and so much more.

HOW TO

Make a donation Did you know that when you book travel through our website, you can make a donation to Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust, helping it continue its important work on the Isles of Scilly. Just add a voluntary donation to your booking online, or you can make one off or regular donations to the charity through their website.

ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 47

WILDLIFE BIRDING THE

Atlantic edge by Lucy McRobert and Dr Rob Lambert Exploring birds on Scilly You can easily explore the birds and wildlife on the Isles of Scilly at your own pace. However, if you’d like to benefit from insider knowledge and an expert eye, Will Wagstaff runs Island Wildlife Tours, offering short or day-long walks around the islands covering some top birding sites. Throughout the summer, St Mary’s Boatmen’s Association runs daily (weatherdependent) seal and seabird watching trips to the Western Rocks, the Norrad Rocks and the Eastern Isles, and other tour operators offer short-range boat excursions, too, including Tresco Boats if you’re staying on Tresco. Scilly Pelagics is the one-stop for those intrepid enough to venture further offshore. There are six birdwatching hides on Scilly: two on Tresco Great Pool, two at Lower Moors and two at Porth Hellick on St Mary’s.

PHOTO: JOE PENDER | RED-FOOTED FALCON

48 | S MAGAZINE

The Isles of Scilly are famed for diverse, charismatic and often rare wildlife. For decades, birders and lovers of nature and wild places have flocked to Scilly, keen to explore and understand the landscapes and seascapes of this sub-tropical archipelago. Serenity and drama combine to peacefully lull you into the deepest calm or enliven all of your senses. This is a place ruled by the tides and the weather, and Scillonian nature reflects this dynamic meeting of the elements.

and even cold northerlies can bring geese, ducks, finches and buntings. Like many Scilly tourists, birders return year on year for decades on end, in the hope of watching rare migrant birds. The autumn ‘Scilly Season’ at its peak in the 1980s, deposited around 1,500 visiting birders on Scilly. Hordes of birders lined up along field edges, peered through bushes, queued outside the hides and at times blocked roads. Handheld radios crackled with bird news from around the islands. Great friendships were formed that have stood the test of time. Things are a touch more genteel now with perhaps 500 visiting birders annually, but Scilly still holds a robust reputation for being one of the best birdwatching sites in the British

Scilly’s unique geographical

Isles.

position, on the wild Atlantic edge, with North America due

The Isles of Scilly Bird Group

west, continental Europe to the

(ISBG), founded in 2001,

south and east, and Ireland to

represents the hobby on the

the north has made it a mecca for

islands and supports targeted

birdwatchers since the 1960s.

conservation work, as well

This island chain is perfectly

Bird Log called at 9pm in the

located to capture ‘Yanks’

Scillonian Club. They publish the

swept across the Atlantic

nationally renowned annual Bird

by powerful fast-moving

and Natural History Review,

depressions and a favourable

which provides an in-depth

jet stream, ‘Sibes’ that come

look at birds and other wildlife

over the top around high

found around the islands. ISBG

pressures or filter down through

maintains the Scilly Bird List

Britain from initial landfall on

which stands at around 450

the East Coast on easterlies,

species.

as organising the October

ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 49

PHOTO: MARC READ | SONG THRUSH

originally from North America with a striking punk hair-do and rattling call. 2021 was a lively year for spotting ostentatious hoopoes from mainland Europe, whilst a dazzling bee-eater spent a couple of weeks touring around St Mary’s. We regularly see rare birds, brought by warm southerlies, like night heron, little bittern, subalpine warbler, red-rumped swallow, black kite and red-footed falcon.

In June 2021, Scilly hit the national headlines with the first sighting in 150 years of an Egyptian vulture, being described as a ‘once-in-a-century bird’. First spotted by local Jennie Trevithick as she walked her dogs on Peninnis, the enormous raptor (with over a 1.5m wingspan) There are relatively few birds that actually breed was tentatively identified from photographs, on Scilly (around 50 species), but those that before flying straight over local bird expert Will do benefit from traditional farming methods, a Wagstaff as he led a wildlife tour on Tresco. lack of disturbance, few predators and obliging Locals scrambled to see the bird, which could tearooms. Birds that are declining elsewhere in be viewed on Tresco or from the Garrison on the UK, like song thrushes and house sparrows, St Mary’s (with the aid of high-magnification seemingly thrive on Scilly. Can life be better than telescopes!) for that afternoon only: several boat being a sparrow living at a Scillonian café? loads of twitchers arrived the next day to try and see the bird, too, but all were disappointed by Back garden birds like blackbirds, wrens, robins the vulture’s swift departure to Ireland. and dunnocks belt out their song from late winter, creating a long and beautiful dawn chorus that can be heard from February until June. An early morning wander in the sunshine to one of the quieter spots on the islands can deliver As the summer kicks in, attention switches from an aural sensation: splashing waves, whispering the land to the sea. Any boat trip out is rarely a reeds, the screech of gulls and an orchestra of wasted opportunity to enjoy marine bird species. warblers, thrushes, chats, tits and finches. Fourteen species of seabird breed on and around the archipelago, totalling about 20,000 birds. A walk around wild headlands will turn up There are several boat tours to choose from if attractive spring migrants including northern you’d like to see puffins, razorbills, guillemots, wheatear, ring ouzel and whinchat; good spots kittiwakes and fulmars. to search are Peninnis or Giant’s Castle on St

Serenaded in spring

Summer seabirds

Mary’s, Castle Down on Tresco, Shipman Head on Bryher, Wingletang on St Agnes or up to the Daymark on St Martin’s. The spring can also strike big for a rarity or two. Last April, a rock thrush was found near the airport on St Mary’s (present for just one evening). In 2020, a lesser kestrel (normally found from the Mediterranean across to central Asia), hung around Porth Hellick for several months through the first national lockdown. 2018 saw a one-day visit from a belted kingfisher,

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PHOTO: WILL WAGSTAFF | EGYPTIAN VULTURE

PHOTO: JOE PENDER | MANX SHEARWATER

Shags are one of our most common breeding

common dolphins, harbour porpoise and minke

seabirds and late summer sees a steady

whale, with occasional sightings of humpback

shearwater passage just offshore with south-

and fin whales. Ocean sunfish and marine turtles

westerly blows, along with regular sightings of

sometimes drift by.

skuas, petrels, gulls and terns. Two iconic species to seek are European storm

Autumn Scilly Season

petrels and Manx shearwaters. The UK has international responsibility for both species; however, since 1983, populations have been in decline. In response, the Seabird Recovery Project was set up in 2012 as a pioneering community-led conservation partnership to help the birds recover, by making St Agnes and Gugh and the uninhabited seabird islands ‘rat-free’. The project formally came to an end in 2017, and since then breeding numbers of seabirds have continued to climb annually, creating a fine

Autumn sees the big influx of birders from across the UK, keen to find and see some of the rarities that end up on Scilly during peak migration. Whilst 2021 was a ‘quiet’ year for rare autumn migrants, 2020 was a ‘classic’, including a blackand-white warbler, two Swainson’s thrushes and an indigo bunting, all from America. In recent years, we’ve also been treated to red-eyed vireos, white-rumped sandpiper, yellow-billed

project legacy for all.

cuckoos, buff-bellied pipits, grey-cheeked thrush,

Scilly Pelagics run evening and day-long trips

and scare migrants, like wrynecks, redstarts,

over August weekends out to sea (book early

yellow-browed warblers or little buntings. East

to secure your spot), offering one of the best

meets West on Scilly every autumn.

and even a quiet day can turn up both common

marine ecotourism experiences in the UK to see Wilson’s storm-petrels, and the big Cory’s

Even in such a seemingly compact landscape,

shearwaters and great shearwaters – holy

there are hotspots to search for specific species.

grail seabirds for British birders. It was from

The Parsonage on St Agnes is a reliable autumn

MV Sapphire in 2020 that just twelve lucky

site for red-breasted flycatchers, as well as

birders were fortunate to spot a Zino’s petrel,

warblers like yellow-browed or Pallas’. Weedy

an incredibly rare seabird from Madeira and the

fields often hide a scarce or rare bunting or

first record of the species in UK waters. These

pipit. Wooded areas on the Garrison can turn up

trips also seek out marine mammals, including

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ISLES OF SCILLY

Bird Group

PHOTO: MARC READ | BLACK & WHITE WARBLER

on St Martin’s. Inland water bodies are good for migrant wildfowl and wading birds; Porth Hellick Pool and Lower Moors on St Mary’s, the Great Pool and Abbey Pool on Tresco. All have all turned up star species in recent years: lesser scaup, green-winged teal, American wigeon, lesser yellowlegs and pectoral sandpiper. Find a rare bird on Scilly and you have ornithological immortality bestowed upon you! Even as the year progresses into winter, Scilly can strike lucky, with hermit thrush, royal tern and killdeer turning up in the last four years. Winter thrushes arrive en masse, and divers and sea duck seek sheltered shallow bays to feed. Wee gangs of chiffchaffs and blackcap overwinter in the warm maritime climate. The Isles of Scilly promise an invigorating wild experience year-round. Few places reveal exciting stories of Nature and People as well as these islands. Scilly is indelibly carved into the psyche of the modern British birder.

PHOTO:

MARC READ | LITTLE BUNTING

The ISBG website publishes regular sightings of birds, cetaceans and other species of note around the islands, as well as offering useful information bird checklists, maps, birdwatching guidelines, useful links and photographs. There is an ISBG bird sightings board at the back door of the Pilots Gig, accessed down the alley opposite The Mermaid Bar entrance. You can support their work by becoming a member for just £15 a year in the UK, you’ll receive a copy of the annual Bird and Natural History Review. You can purchase a copy from several outlets around Hugh Town or find contact details for their voluntary committee. You can share your sightings with the local bird recorder, thus contributing to local citizen science.

Further Reading: WHERE TO WATCH BIRDS IN DEVON AND CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY (2009) Vic Tucker & David Norman BEST BIRDWATCHING SITES: CORNWALL AND SCILLY (2008) Sara McMahon & Nigel Hudson THE POCKET GUIDE TO SCILLY BIRDS (2006) Nigel Hudson & Danni Borrett

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INSIDER KEEPING A

Lighthouse

“My favourite thing to take photos of are the lighthouses and the locations they are in. Such exposed and isolated places that are dif f icult to get to. It really shows how amazing the engineers were who designed and built these structures. I have been blown away by the positive feedback I’ve had for my photos. People are fascinated by the lighthouses and are grateful that I can share photos with them.”

We caught up with lighthouse technician and photographer, Scott Tacchi, who works as part of a small team based at Land’s End looking after 20 lighthouses in the South West. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT YOUR JOB AS LIGHTHOUSE TECHNICIAN? I find the huge variety of tasks really satisfying. It keeps the job exciting and I’m always learning new skills. Travelling all over the country is something else I also really enjoy, seeing places that I probably would never have visited otherwise. TELL US ABOUT YOUR VISIT TO BISHOP ROCK LIGHTHOUSE, ISLES OF SCILLY Making sure you pack EVERYTHING you need before you stay in a very isolated location for 12 days is always quite challenging, as you do not want to forget anything. It is a very surreal experience staying on a lighthouse – you quickly learn to live in very close proximity with your colleagues and you get very good exercise from all of the steps. During a storm, it really makes you realise how insignificant we are compared to mother nature and how incredibly well built these structures are. WHAT WORK DID YOU CARRY OUT WHILE YOU WERE HERE? We carried out an inspection of all of the systems within the lighthouse and upgraded the remote monitoring system. Another task was replacing the safety nets on the helideck, which has to be carried out every 3 years. WHICH OTHER SCILLY LIGHTHOUSES HAVE YOU VISITED BEFORE? I have been to all 3 of the lighthouses that we work on in the Isles of Scilly; Round Island, Bishop Rock and Peninnis. Round Island is my favourite as you can get outside and explore whilst still being isolated. We reach Roundy and Bishop by helicopter but when working on Penninis, we fly into and stay on St Mary’s.

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THE ISLANDS

St Martin’s

All around the island, you’ll find white, sandy coves that slope gently into crystal-clear water. It’s a tantalising choice. But world-class beaches are by no means the only reason to visit this laid back, welcoming island.

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CHARITY PROUD TO

support

HOW TO

Make a donation Did you know that when you book travel through our website, you can help The Island Haven – a charity aiming to provide a place to stay on the mainland for islanders undergoing medical treatment? Just add a voluntary donations to your booking online, or you can make one off or regular donations to the charity through its website.

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Our customers can now help the charity’s fundraising efforts by making a voluntary donation when booking travel through our website. The Island Haven is fundraising to build and equip a place for the people of the Isles of Scilly to stay when they require medical care on the mainland. They may need a place to stay during prolonged outpatient treatment, or their family, friends or carer may need a place to stay to accompany their loved ones. The need for islanders to pay for hotels, guesthouses or B&B accommodation impacts family life, finances and general wellbeing at a time when stability is needed most. During Cornwall’s main tourist season, accommodation can be impossible to find.

For some islanders, this has meant extended stays in costly guest accommodation, lengthy time on friends’ sofas or even the prospect of not being able to be by their loved one’s side. The Island Haven will provide a “home from home” near the Royal Cornwall Hospital in Truro for the use of islanders and visitors to Scilly when they need it most. Stuart Reid, Chief Executive of the Isles of Scilly Steamship Company, said: “It is entirely fitting for us to be supporting The Island Haven in this meaningful way. It is an extremely worthwhile cause, one close to the hearts of many islanders, including our own employees. “We are committed to supporting islanders in any way we can and are delighted to be giving something back to the community we are proud to have been serving for more than 100 years, in line with our founding principles.”

Patricia Matthews, a Trustee of The Island Haven, said: “The Steamship Company’s support can really make a vital difference to The Island Haven in our efforts to provide a place to stay in times of need, because its support will help build a successful outcome for us. We are so grateful to you all. Thank you.” The Steamship Company gives back around £1 million per year to the local community, supporting a huge range of groups, good causes, sporting events, subsidised travel for island residents, medical flights and off-island freight. Over the last 3 years we have helped raise more than £60,000 for the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust and hope our fundraising efforts can be as successful for Island Haven. We have already raised £7,853 to date (31st March 2022) for Island Haven via our website.

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CHARITY PROUD TO

support

The Tibbs family

Thank you £7,853 RAISED SO FAR The money you have donated will go toward helping families like the Tibbs and Matthews at times when they need it most.

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The Tibbs family, from Bryher, were stranded on the mainland in November 2015 after their two-year-old daughter Cory was flown off the islands when she became dangerously unwell. Her mum, Issy, said: “I was suddenly on the mainland with a two-year-old, pregnant and suffering from morning sickness. I had nothing to feed Cory, the canteen was shut and the vending machine was broken. “Cory was discharged and we sat outside the hospital at 4am trying to get hold of friends that could pick us up. At that moment The Island Haven would have been so welcome. I would have had somewhere warm and safe. Cory would have had a bed to lie in when she was feeling so poorly. “Luckily friends came and picked us up a couple of hours later. Not everyone is lucky enough to have friends and family nearby and The Island Haven will provide islanders with somewhere safe when we need it most.”

The Matthews family Bryher residents Tom and Jo Matthews had to find somewhere to stay near the hospital for several weeks when their son Ollie was born prematurely in January 2019. Jo’s waters broke at 27 weeks on December 21st 2018 and the family was flown to the Royal Cornwall Hospital in Truro. Ollie was born at 30 weeks on January 13th 2019 and was in the special care baby until March 1st when he was allowed home to the islands. Tom said: “We know from experience just how stressful and emotionally exhausting it can be to find a place to stay in an emergency situation like ours. At times, it felt impossible. “When a loved one needs urgent treatment of ongoing care on the mainland, the last thing you have to worry about is where you are going to stay. The Island Haven will take away that worry, allowing islanders to concentrate on what matters: being there for their loved one when they need it most.”

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12 11 13

7 3

HOW TO

Inter-island boating

If you are making a list of places you’d love to visit, don’t limit your search to the island you are staying on or visiting.

2 4 1

Hopping between the islands is easy, and means you can explore more of Scilly and discover each island’s unique charm.

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16 21

18 17

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HISTORY AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL 15

Archipelago The Isles of Scilly have a long, intriguing ancient history and a remarkable range of historic sites to explore with over 60% of the islands being classed as archaeologically important. To help you look in all the right places we’ve put together a list of the must-see historical sites. So, when you’re craving a little island history, you’ll know exactly where to look...

Garrison Walls ST MARY’S

King Charles Castle TRESCO

Star Castle ST MARY’S

The Old Blockhouse TRESCO

Telegraph Tower ST MARY’S

St. Nicholas Priory TRESCO

Buzza Tower ST MARY’S

Day Mark ST MARTIN’S

Penninis Lighthouse ST MARY’S

St. Agnes Lighthouse ST AGNES

Innisidgen ST MARY’S

Beady Pool ST AGNES

Halangy Down Ancient Village ST MARY’S

Troytown Maze ST AGNES

Harry’s Walls ST MARY’S

Old Man of Gugh GUGH

St Mary’s Old Church ST MARY’S

Obadiah’s Barrow GUGH

Memorial to Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovell ST MARY’S

Cromwell’s Castle TRESCO

Bishop Rock Lighthouse 4 MILES WEST OF THE ISLES OF SCILLY (off the map)

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Garrison Walls ST MARY’S

The curtain wall and bastions formed one of the most impressive coastal defence systems in England. Building started in 1588 and later extended in the 18th century to surround almost the whole headland.

Buzza Tower ST MARY’S

The three-storey tower was built in 1821 as a windmill on the site of a Bronze Age kerbed cairn. In 1912 the tower was restored as a memorial with sheltered seating to commemorate a visit by King Edward VII.

Halangy Down Ancient Village ST MARY’S

The village was in continuous use from the late Iron Age until the end of the Roman occupation in Britain. The remains are well preserved with a number of clearly identifiable structures such as circular huts, courtyards and stone drains.

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Star Castle ST MARY’S

Queen Elizabeth I ordered the construction of the eightpointed star fort to look out for enemy ships in 1593 following the Spanish Armada in fear of another invasion. The fort features on the Isles of Scilly Council flag and is now a hotel.

Penninis Lighthouse ST MARY’S

Trinity House built the lighthouse in 1911 to replace the one on St Agnes to help vessels enter St Mary’s harbour. It stands at 14m tall and was one of the first gas powered lighthouses to use acetylene.

Harry’s Walls ST MARY’S

Building began on the Tudor artillery fort in 1551 to protect the approach to Hugh Town. During construction builders realised the location for the fort was not ideal to prevent an attack on the harbour so it was never finished.

Telegraph Tower ST MARY’S

Built as an Admiralty Telegraph Station in 1814, the tower is situated on the highest point on Scilly. In 1831 the site was taken over by the Coastguard and received one of the first radio transmissions in 1898.

Innisidgen ST MARY’S

On the slopes of Innisidgen Hill overlooking Crow Sound and the Eastern Isles there are two Bronze Age burial chambers known as Upper and Lower Innisidgen. Upper Innisidgen is the larger of the two and one of the best-preserved on Scilly.

Old Church Town ST MARY’S

The churchyard is one of the most interesting you’ll find. It contains the graves of many centuries worth of Scillonian families, but also the victims of numerous shipwrecks and one former British Prime Minister – Harold Wilson.

Memorial to Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovell ST MARY’S

The stone memorial at Porth Hellick Cove marks where his body was washed up after the disastrous shipwreck of flagship HMS Association off the Isles of Scilly in 1707 which saw 1,400 others perish.

The Old Blockhouse TRESCO

The fort was built in the 16th century, but didn’t see any action until the English Civil War. Occupied by the Royalists it was attacked and taken by the Parliamentarian fleet commanded by the famous Admiral Blake in 1651.

St. Agnes Lighthouse ST AGNES & GUGH

One of the oldest surviving lighthouses in Britain, and the second to be built in Cornwall, it was first lit on 30th October 1680 by coal burners. Standing at 23m tall the tower’s structure unusually features gun ports.

Old Man of Gugh ST AGNES & GUGH

Located close to the base of Kittern Hill this dominating granite standing stone called a Menhir dates back to the Bronze Age and is the UK’s most southernly. It stands a little crooked at around 2.7m high.

Cromwell’s Castle TRESCO

The stone fort was built after the defeat of the Royalists on Scilly in 1651 to guard one of the main routes of entry to the heart of the islands. It is one of the few surviving Cromwellian fortifications in Britain.

The artillery fort overlooking New Grimsby harbour was built between 1548-1551, but the castle’s poor design and location meant it’s guns couldn’t be angled to fire down on ships in the channel below.

St. Nicholas Priory TRESCO

A former monastic settlement founded in 946 AD, it was re-founded in 1114 by monks from Tavistock Abbey and was the most remote Cornish monastery. The priory ruins have since been developed into Tresco Abbey Gardens.

Beady Pool ST AGNES & GUGH

Obadiah’s Barrow ST AGNES & GUGH

Dating from the Neolithic era, Obadiah’s Barrow is named after local farmer Obadiah Hicks. When excavated in 1901 a crouching male skeleton was discovered in the middle of the chamber and Bronze Age cremation urns were found.

Day Mark ST MARTIN’S

The tower was built as a navigation aid in 1683 by Thomas Ekins on the highest point of the island. Measuring 4.8m in diameter and 6.4m high it was originally painted white and when weather allows it’s identifiable from the mainland.

In the 17th century a Venetian cargo ship was wrecked among the western rocks sending thousands of glass beads to the ocean floor. Ever since they have washed ashore in this bay, and that beach soon became known as Beady Pool.

King Charles Castle TRESCO

Troytown Maze ST AGNES & GUGH

The seven ring unicursal pebble maze is thought to be the work of Amor Clarke, a lighthouse keeper on the island in the 1790s. Such mazes were built on our coasts to protect sailors by sending them fair winds.

Bishop Rock Lighthouse

Built in 1858 to mark the most westerly danger - a rock ledge measuring 46m long and 16m wide. At 49m high it is the joint tallest lighthouse in Britain and was manned until 1992. Take a boat trip to visit the most South Westerly point in Britain.

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MEET THE TEAM THE END OF AN ERA FOR

Master Pete Crawford In January 2022, Scillonian III marked the end of an era as Master Pete Crawford retired af ter a remarkable 39 seasons – and approximately 666 ,000 miles - on board our iconic ship. We caught up with Pete, 60, to chat about some of his memories from the past four decades.

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WHEN DID YOU JOIN SCILLONIAN III? It was 1983 and I was a 22-year-old fresh out of the Merchant Navy. Scillonian III was five-yearsold and my first job was as radio officer – now a defunct role. Apart from Morse Code, I was the only means of communication between the ship and shore. Back then part of my job included collecting tickets from passengers on the gangway. Lots of families had their photos taken with me at the start of their holidays. Almost 40 years later, I’m having photos taken with their children and grandchildren. WHEN DID YOU BECOME THE SHIP’S MASTER? I’d had no deep sea experience, so in the winter of 1988 I spent 10 weeks on board RMS St Helena, visiting Cape Town, St Helena and Tristan da Cuhna – the most remote inhabited archipelago in the world. The ship was run from Porthleven at the time and had strong connections with the Steamship Company. After that I was the first person the Steamship Company put through college, which was unheard of in those days. I got my first deck ticket in 1992 and became Relief Chief Officer, then in 2002 I took over as Relief Master, a job I’ve had ever since. CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT SOME OF THE WILDLIFE YOU’VE SEEN OVER THE YEARS? The incredible wildlife has undoubtedly been one of the highlights for me – I can honestly say we see something every day. I’ve seen humpback

whales breeching off Land’s End; a pod of killer spell “Thank You Pete 39”. A great friend, whales; many, many fin whales, minke whales and Captain Sam Guy, insisted on being on board for dolphins and tuna regularly. my final trip, which made it very special. When we got back into Penzance, we were greeted by I used to see giant groups of basking sharks – my Steamship Company colleagues standing to you could almost guarantee them from June. attention on the Quay, our freight ship Gry Once a fishing boat called to let us know about a Maritha’s fire hoses spraying in the air and a super pod of hundreds of dolphins in a feeding frenzy, so we went three miles off course to take surprise party. the passengers to see that. One magical thing I’ll never forget is a very unusual whale called a Sowerby whale playing in the surf off the Eastern Isles probably about 25 years ago. I’ve never seen one since. WHAT ABOUT THE PEOPLE? I consider a lot of our passengers to be friends, many I’ve seen year after year. I’ve carried lots of famous people over the years, including Princes William and Harry, and the passengers are what makes the job special. They come on holiday with smiles on their faces and it’s my job not only to keep them safe, but to keep those smiles on their faces.

HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT YOUR RETIREMENT? We’ve worked out I’ve made the return journey to Scilly more than 9,000 times and carried more than two million passengers. Now I’m looking forward to being a passenger myself. It’s been an honour and a privilege to have worked on board such an iconic and well-loved ship, and to serve the islands and my home town of Penzance. Believe it or not, I’m looking forward to learning to sail again. I’m going to spend my retirement with my wife Angie and my two sons – Ryan, who lives in Perth, Australia, and Lewis who lives in Hampshire.

I’d like to give a special mention to the islanders, some of whom have become dear friends over the years. One of the things I’m most looking forward to about retirement is spending more times on the Isles of Scilly. It’s an incredibly special place. WHAT WAS YOUR FINAL JOURNEY LIKE? It was humbling and emotional. Islanders turned out to wave and cheer as I departed St Mary’s for the final time, and the ship’s flags unfurled to

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FACT FILE 4,924 individual animals have been recorded on 153 different surveys 16 DIFFERENT SPECIES SEEN •

•

9 CETACEANS: harbour porpoise, bottlenose dolphin, common dolphin, Risso’s dolphin, striped dolphin, killer whale, long-finned pilot whale, minke whale, humpback whale 2 SHARK SPECIES: basking shark and blue shark

•

2 SEAL SPECIES: seal and grey seal

common

•

2 FISH SPECIES: oceanic sunfish and tuna

•

1 TURTLE SPECIES: leatherback turtle

HIGHLIGHTS Some highlights across the years include: •

SUPER PODS - OF over 100 common dolphins

•

KILLER WHALES - which despite their name are in fact a dolphin, the biggest of all the dolphins reaching up to 10m in length

•

HUMPBACK WHALE - seen in 2016

•

FEEDING FRENZIES - diving gannets, leaping tuna and large groups of feeding dolphins

•

IN 2017, THE FIRST REPORTED SIGHTING OF STRIPED DOLPHINS IN THE AREA - Prior to this the species had only been seen stranded on beaches in the area

WILDLIFE A WHALE OF A TIME ON BOARD

Scillonian III The UK’s most diverse ferry route for cetacean sightings Binoculars at the ready: if you’re sailing with us on board Scillonian III this season, the chances are you’ll spot some form of wildlife from the ship’s deck.

In 2019, the last year of surveys due to Covid, an incredible 718 animals were recorded – the highest number yet.

The first scientific survey ORCA conducted on board Scillonian The 38-mile stretch between III was in August 2009, and it Penzance and the Isles of Scilly has since surveyed more than has been revealed as the UK’s 12,000 miles traveling between most diverse ferry route when Cornwall and the islands. it comes to cetacean sightings. The surveys are conducted by A total of 4,924 individual volunteers who have been animals have been recorded, trained as citizen scientists by with 16 different species seen, ORCA. since surveys began from This year, these vital cetacean Scillonian III in 2009. monitoring surveys will be Since then, highly-trained taking place on board marine mammal surveyors from Scillonian III once again. ORCA, the charity dedicated to The charity tries to replicate studying and protecting whales, dolphins and porpoises the same survey dates each year to ensure the data is in UK waters, have conducted comparable and now has a 153 surveys from the decks of highly valuable dataset Scillonian III. collected onboard. Marine mammals have been Lucy Babey, head of science recorded every month of surveying, but there is a peak in and conservation at ORCA, said: “We value the partnership sightings between July and September. These include killer with Scillonian III highly. The data collected is of great whales, humpback whales, importance and has been used bottlenose dolphins, basking to help shape marine policy and sharks, seals, tuna and legislation. leatherback turtles. “Our volunteer marine mammal The most commonly sighted species is the common dolphin surveyors absolutely love surveying this route – it is in (3,558 animals) followed by fact our highest diversity UK harbour porpoise (664 Discover more at islesofscilly-travel.co.uk Issue 06 | 69 animals). ferry route.”

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OVER THE YEARS JOE HAS SEEN BOTTLENOSE DOLPHINS LEATHERBACK TURTLES PORBEAGLES AND BLUE SHARKS ATLANTIC PUFFINS GREY SEALS HARBOUR PORPOISE.

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WILDLIFE A BOAT TRIP OF A

Lifetime

2021 was an incredible year for wildlife on the Isles of Scilly. It started with a once-in-acentury sighting of a rare Egyptian vulture in June and was quickly followed by Wally the Arctic walrus, who became a local celebrity during his stay on the islands.

But it was on the water in late August when boatman Joe Pender had the most memorable day of his 20 -year career. Joe, who takes hundreds of people on wildlife spotting trips each year on board his boat Sapphire, was heading out past the Western Rocks, off the back of St Agnes, searching for shearwaters with a group of bird watchers, when he noticed bird feeding activity.

it. The fin whale is the second

He said: “I went over to where the birds were and there was a huge humpback whale, between 40-50ft in length, which started lunge feeding. It was an awesome sight. We stayed with it for about 45 minutes, watching its feeding frenzy, before we carried on towards the Bishop Rock where I spotted more feeding activity.

what we expected when we

“I immediately saw a fin whale, then another one, then another humpback, then a minke whale. I’ve been doing this for 20 years and I’ve never seen anything like

largest whale on Earth after the blue whale, and one of them was between 80-90ft long. “The passengers were blown away – they couldn’t believe it – and neither could I. It was overwhelming, and certainly not went out that day. “I let the boat drift and we stayed with the whales for about an hour, watching them feed and breach. “Seeing whales in Scilly is unusual, but it is getting more regular. It’s possibly because there is a lot of food around for them, we’ve also got a lot of Atlantic blue fin tuna here feeding around the islands. It’s amazing what is out there.”

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THE ISLANDS

St Agnes Unspoiled, and a little untamed- with mysterious, Bronze Age archaeology, and rare bird species brought in on the Atlantic currents. If you want to get away from it all, this is the place. At low tide, you can walk across the sandbar to the mysterious, neighbouring island of Gugh.

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ISLAND PRODUCE SOMETHING

Special

SCILLY BILLY | ST MARTIN’S Visit our shop on St Martin’s scillybilly.com @scillybilly Uniquely Scilly, our range of clothing, bags & accessories, helps you keep memories of special times in Scilly with you wherever you go. New this year are traditional Cornish smocks, featuring our Daymark design created on St Martin’s. You’ll find something for the whole family.

From unique handcraf ted gins to silver trinkets sourced from the shores of Scilly; these special Scilly products are just the thing to remind you of these special sand fringed islands.

FAY PAGE | ST MARTIN’S Workshop open Mon-Fri, 9:30–16:30 faypage.co.uk @faypagescilly Solid silver and gold jewellery made in our St Martin’s workshop. Our work is a celebration of everything we love about living on an island.

SCILLY FLOWERS | ST MARTIN’S Churchtown Farm scillyflowers.co.uk Scilly’s postal flower service sending gift boxes of island grown scented flowers all year round to any UK address.

SCILLY SPIRIT | ST MARY’S Award-winning Island Gin scillyspirit.com Handcrafted by Arthur & Hilary at their distillery on St Mary’s in various sizes. Ideal for gifts or to enjoy during your island stay. They can also post your bottle/s home in their plastic free bespoke packaging. Enjoy a glass in any venue on the island to taste the true Spirit of Scilly.

ISLES OF SCILLY WILDLIFE TRUST ios-wildlifetrust.org.uk/shop @ScillyWildlife Love Scilly? Now you can take a bit of Scilly with you, wherever you go; celebrate our islands’ wildlife with exclusive designs, beautifully drawn by Cornish artists. Every purchase supports the work of the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust; looking after the very nature of the islands that have captured your heart.

SC SALT | ST MARTIN’S Available locally, on-board Scillonian or at Land’s End Airport. sc-salt.co.uk @sc_salt SC Salt is made simply from the sea and the sun on the Isles of Scilly. Handmade salt from the crystal-clear waters of St Martin’s Par.

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As part of our 100 year celebrations in 2020, we worked with Sue Lewington, a freelance illustrator living in west Cornwall, to create a special centenary illustrated book.

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Sue specialises in ink and watercolour sketches and she lived on St Martin’s for 20 years, where she ran a gallery, before moving to west Penwith. Sue has a deep affinity with the islands and

regularly returns to Scilly and to the Shetland islands in Scotland. Sue has worked on a series of beautiful watercolour paintings illustrating and telling the story of different areas of the company.

Celebrating O N E H U N D R E D Y E A R S Illustrated by Sue Lewington Titled ‘One Hundred Years’ the book celebrates our 100 years of service to the Isles of Scilly and connecting people to the islands.

N OW AVA I L ABLE T O ORD 0173 6

ER C A LL: 3 3 42 2 0

£15

+£3.50 po

stage

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EVENTS DATES FOR THE

Diary

WORLD PILOT GIG CHAMPIONSHIPS

SWIM CHALLE

FOLK FESTIVAL

NGE

Global competitions

Sounds of Scilly

For the foodies

WORLD PILOT GIG CHAMPIONSHIPS 29 APRIL – 1 MAY A colourful and energetic event that sees thousands of rowers and supporters descend on Scilly to watch the gigs power through the waves.

SCILLY FOLK FESTIVAL 26 - 31 MAY Some of the best folk musicians in the Southwest will be returning the islands for a fun packed weekend of music and dancing.

TASTE OF SCILLY 15 - 25 SEPTEMBER Celebrating the best local produce, fresh seafood and drink the islands have to offer with a wide choice of dining experiences.

Getting active

Natural wonders

WALK SCILLY 12-18 APRIL The spring event covers the five islands, as well as some of the uninhabited ones too. With a huge variety of guided walks, there’s something for everybody.

THE LOW TIDE EVENT 18 APRIL & 11 SEPTEMBER Enjoy this totally unique Scillonian experience with Tresco Island’s ultimate pop-up festival, on the sandbar mid-channel between Tresco and Bryher.

SCILLY SWIM CHALLENGE 3,4,6 SEPTEMBER Watch the iconic 15km staged swim challenge between the islands offers participants 6 challenging open water swims and 6 walks over 1 or 2 days.

SCILLY DARK SKIES WEEK 2 - 8 OCTOBER Scilly Dark Skies Week is a celebration of grassroots astronomy and the Isles of Scilly’s wondrously dark night skies.

ÖTILLÖ SWIMRUN WORLD SERIES 4 - 5 JUNE Ranked as one of the toughest endurance races in the world, the course is over land and sea and sees 100+ teams from around the world competing.

All things arty CREATIVE SCILLY 13 - 22 MAY, OCTOBER (TBC) A festival celebrating all things arty meet local artists and join in with their hands-on workshops and demonstrations.

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LOW TIDE EVENT

ÖTILLÖ SWIMRUN

WORLD SERIES

DARK SKIES

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THE ISLANDS

St Mary’s

Often referred to as the hub of the islands and the main centre for all the local services. It’s the island you will arrive on and where you’ll find most of the shops and the boats to other islands. With beaches, shopping, countryside paths and coastal trials there’s always something new to try.

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Travel Isles of Scilly

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IS LE S O F SCI LLY