Isles of Scilly YOUR ISLAND GUIDE
ISLES OF SCILLY EXCLUSIVE
Meet Scilly’s oldest resident, Hilda, who has lived on the islands for almost a century.
BEHIND THE SCENES with St Martin’s Vineyard’s new owners. Find out why they gave up their jobs for the dream of island life.
SCILLY FROM ABOVE
Spectacular views of this winter’s whale sightings with thanks to aerial photographer Gareth Tibbs.
Isles of Scilly
Isles of Scilly
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ISSUE 09 | 2023 MAGAZINE Travel
Travel
ISLES OF SCILLY
ISLES OF SCILLY
Your memories of Scilly are made from experiences like these.
Isles of Scilly Steamship Group Limited, Steamship House, Quay Street, Penzance, Cornwall, TR18 4BZ
S Magazine is produced by Isles of Scilly Steamship Group in-house communications team.
T +44 (0) 1736 334240 marketing@islesofscilly-travel. co.uk
Thanks to all those who have contributed to this publication. Opinions expressed are the authors’ and not necessarily those of the Company. Whilst every effort is made to ensure total accuracy Isles of Scilly Steamship Group cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions within this magazine.
If you’re looking for experiences, you’ve come to the right place – the Isles of Scilly have a raft of experiences just waiting for you.
From wild swimming, diving and snorkelling to rockpool safaris, vineyard tours and island hopping adventures.
All these experiences take place in one of the most beautiful and unspoilt parts of the world you will ever see.
Many of these experiences can be enjoyed in just one day, but there is so much to see, feel and do on the islands that for an awful lot of people, one day is simply not enough.
Whether you visit for the day or stay a little longer, you will never forget your time on Scilly. Island life becomes a part of you, and you become a part of the island’s story.
However you have chosen to travel to the islands - by Skybus from Land’s End, Newquay or Exeter airports or sailing on Scillonian III from Penzance - we are delighted to welcome you on board in 2023.
We hope you enjoy visiting the islands and everything they have to offer and wish you a pleasant journey.
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 3
to the 2023 edition of S-Magazine, our exclusive magazine for Scillonian
Welcome
III and Skybus passengers.
Travel Travel
Inside you’ll find tips, guides and insider-knowledge to make the most of your time on the Isles of Scilly.
ISLES OF SCILLY MAGAZINE
ISLES OF SCILLY
4 | S MAGAZINE 2022 WILDLIFE ROUNDUP In partnership with ORCA 62 SCILLY’S HISTORIC SITES BIRD OF THE CENTURY Blackburnian warbler 36 ROCKPOOL SAFARIS With the Reid family 16 SCILLY FROM ABOVE With Gareth Tibbs 42 YOUR SCILLY Visitor favourites 08 CANINE ADVENTURES With Forthglade 52 SCILLY’S OLDEST RESIDENT With Hilda Richards 56
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 5 100 YEARS OF DAY TRIPS Early Scillonian day trips 59 ON THE WATER Watersports on Scilly FESTIVAL OF NATURE Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust BIRD OF THE CENTURY Blackburnian warbler SOMETHING SPECIAL Send a little bit of Scilly home SCILLY FROM ABOVE With Gareth Tibbs 2022 S-MAGAZINE Contents SCILLY SNAPS Your island photos YOUR SCILLY Visitor favourites ST MARTIN’S VINEYARD Behind the scenes ROCKPOOL SAFARIS With the Reid family STAY ON THE ISLANDS Accommodation guide SCILLY’S HISTORIC SITES An archaeological archipelago 6 8 12 16 18 22 28 34 36 38 42 OUR FAITHFUL FREIGHT SHIPS Gry Maritha and Lyonesse Lady CANINE ADVENTURES In partnership with Forthglade SCILLY’S OLDEST RESIDENT With Hilda Richards 2022 WILDLIFE ROUNDUP In partnership with ORCA WHAT’S ON GUIDE Reasons to visit Scilly 50 52 56 62 64 OUR FIRST FEMALE MASTER Victoria Bolitho 60 OUR FAITHFUL FREIGHT SHIPS Gry Maritha and Lyonesse Lady 50 OUR FIRST FEMALE MASTER Victoria Bolitho 60
YOUR SCILLY YOUR PHOTOS TAKEN ON TRIPS TO Scilly
We love seeing your photos of beautiful Scilly. Share your photos on social media and don’t forget to tag us!
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DAWN CURRELL ST MARY’S, August 2022
KATE MOODY ST MARY’S, July 2021
ANDREA SMEATON BRYHER, June 2021
LAURA BARELLA (AND DOG MILO) ST MARTIN’S , October 2021
FACEBOOK.CO.UK/ISLESOFSCILLYTRAVEL
@ISLESOFSCILLYTRAVEL
@IOSTRAVEL | @IOSTRAVELUPDATE
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 7
ROSE NYE ST AGNES, 1979
AMANDA STEPHENS ST MARY’S, May 2022
ANNA MOORE ST MARY’S, August 2021
JADE THOMAS BRYHER, July 2022
island
LIZ EWERS ST MARY’S, August 2022
FOLLOW US
experiences
Magical islands...
Bryher
“The walk to Hell Bay and beyond, the views from the top of the hill and each of the bays.”
“Love Bryher...beautiful empty beaches... the foliage...Hell Bay Hotel ...Veronica Farm Fudge...amazing! Added bonus of seeing the Blackburnian warbler. I’ll be back next year.. .”
“So peaceful. Wild seas at Hell Bay in rough weather. Delicious fudge from Veronica Farm, the very best scones and banoffee pie at Olivia’s Café; Island Fish; Fraggle Rock. We love just walking all the lovely paths around the island. Can honestly say that a week on Bryher is never long enough.”
St Martin’s
“Spent many years camping on St Martin’s and honestly, when there for the week, we never went off onto other islands. My happy place for a long time.”
“Heaven for us.”
“No better place in the world!”
“I miss this little piece of paradise so much! Each island is special in its own way. I WILL get back one day.”
St Martin’s
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YOUR SCILLY YOUR FAVOURITE THINGS ABOUT THESE
Bryher
St Agnes
Tresco
St Agnes
“The beauty, peace and variety of sea life, also the friendliness of everyone, making visitors feel welcome.”
“The fact that every time I visit I always see something I’ve never noticed before! The sunrises and sunsets, watching seals, my dogs playing on the tombolo (sand bar), dark skies, waking up just knowing a day on St Agnes will be perfect.“
“The amazing scenery around Wingletang Down and Troytown and looking out towards the Western Rocks.”
“Coffee at the Coastguards Café and Troytown ice cream.”
“Waiting for the last boat whilst seated outside the Turks Head.”
Tresco
“I’ve been fortunate enough to visit for the last 52 years, and hope to visit again next year.”
“Fabulous beaches, amazing, famous gardens, beautiful walks and views, and the agapanthus running wild in the sand dunes. My idea of heaven!”
St Mary’s
“Walk up to Star Castle, then on round the headland. A beer in the Mermaid, then up through the town out to Old Town.”
“Go to Pelistry and sit on the beach and watch the seals...have wander along the coast path and then Juliet’s Garden for late lunch!”
“Garrison walk, (but my knees hate the mountain up there), Peninnis, wandering up through Holy Vale...and staying at the Atlantic...perfect.”
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 9
St Mary’s the islands
Bryher
Bryher has a bit of everything: a rugged, Atlantic side with dramatic coastline and, occasionally, waves to match. But its sheltered eastern shores, looking across to Tresco, are sandy and calm.
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THE ISLANDS
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 11 the islands
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ISLAND PRODUCE ST MARTIN’S vineyard and winery
A chance conversation while they were on holiday was all it took for Holly Robbins and James Faulconbridge to give up their lives in Nottinghamshire and move to the Isles of Scilly.
With no previous experience of professional winemaking or running their own business, Holly and James became the new owners of St Martin’s Vineyard in 2020 and haven’t looked back since.
St Martin’s Vineyard is one of the UK’s smallest and most south-westerly. It was established in 1996 and typically produces between 1,500 to 3,000 bottles of red, white and rose wine each year.
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foodie experiences island life WWW.STMARTINSVINEYARD.CO.UK FACEBOOK.COM/STMARTINSVINEYARD @STMARTINSVINEYARD @SCILLYVINEYARD
HOW DID YOU COME TO BUY ST MARTIN’S VINEYARD?
We visited the Isles of Scilly in July 2018 for the first time on the recommendation of friends. We were here for a week and absolutely fell in love with the islands. We came to St Martin’s for the day, visited the vineyard and got chatting to Val and Graham Thomas, the previous owners. They mentioned they were thinking of retiring and casually asked if we knew anyone who may be interested in taking over the vineyard.
We went and sat on Great Bay and thought “could we do this?” Deep down, we just knew. It was too good to be true.
WHAT DID YOUR FRIENDS AND FAMILY THINK?
At first, we didn’t mention the vineyard, but they knew something was up when we went back to Scilly just a few weeks after our holiday. They could see how excited we were. It was a big wrench to leave them all, but this wasn’t just a holiday dream. It was a once-in-alifetime chance. Now, they love coming here on holiday.
HAD YOU MADE YOUR OWN WINE BEFORE?
Not professionally! Our lives before this were very different. Holly worked in an office job as a project manager for John Deere and James is an ecologist,
so has a strong connection to the natural world. Foraging in hedgerows and making our own country wines was one of our passions, so we knew the principles of winemaking, but doing this on a commercial scale was a massive learning curve – we’re very lucky to have Val and Graham nearby to guide us.
HOW WAS YOUR FIRST YEAR?
We arrived three weeks before the first lockdown in February 2020. In some ways, it was a blessing in disguise as it gave us a chance to get settled in and figure out island life. Our first harvest in 2020 was small – 500 bottles –because we had a big storm just as the vines were flowering in spring. We’re really at the mercy of the weather. Our latest vintage in 2022 produced
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Here, we meet Holly and James, both 37, and find out a bit more about their St Martin’s adventure so far.
around 1,800 bottles from just shy of 2,000 vines.
WHAT’S NEW AT THE VINEYARD?
The vineyard is a very special place, started by a Scillonian family and it’s a precious bit of heritage and we’ve tried to continue in the same spirit.
The vineyard was always managed sensitively, and now we’re taking a regenerative approach whereby everything thrives here, including the wildlife and wildflowers. We manage the site organically, and we don’t use any artificial fertilisers, pesticides or herbicides. We’ve built two shepherd huts as holiday lets and also started making our own cider and microbatch beers. It’s really good fun.
TELL US A BIT ABOUT THE WINE?
We’re still making the same style of wines. We grow 11 different varieties of vine, on a traditional post and wire system. We can only grow the varieties that are suited to the climate.
The wines are unique and we make four different styles of each vintage. People ask us if it tastes like chardonnay or pinot grigio, but if anything, it tastes like the island. It’s got its own special character.
WHAT’S IT LIKE LIVING ON ST MARTIN’S?
From the moment we stepped off Scillonian III we knew this was where we wanted to be. It felt like we’d been here forever, which was a magical and overwhelming feeling. Scilly is such a friendly, welcoming place. The community here is so tight
– I’ve always lived in villages but this is on a different scale.
In the summer, life is busy and there are so many people here, but in winter we really connect with other islanders. It’s our time to catch up.
WHAT’S THE BEST BIT OF YOUR NEW LIFE?
It’s not just a job, it’s a way of life. We are completely immersed in the place. We get to do something that we absolutely love in such a special place. It never feels like working.
It’s so peaceful, yet there’s so much life here. Sitting in the vineyard, sipping a glass of wine and it’s humming with life.
We can’t believe how lucky we are.
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 15 foodie experiences island life
THINGS TO DO
The great British summertime tradition of rockpooling is a magical and accessible activity for all ages on the Isles of Scilly –all you need is a bucket and your eyes. Now one enterprising young family is sharing its knowledge and experience, leading guided rockpool safaris on the beaches and rocky shores around the islands.
Samaya and Scott Reid, along with their children Orkney, seven, Orli, three and Dusky, one, moved to the islands five years ago from Stockport and soon discovered a love of rockpooling.
Reid family’s top Scilly finds
ROCKPOOLING FOR BEGINNERS – GRAB
BEADLET ANEMONE
PAINTED TOP-SHELL
THONGWEED
COMMON PERIWINKLE
LIMPET
SEA LETTUCE
SNAKELOCKS ANEMONE
SHORE CRAB
CUSHION STARFISH
NETTED DOG WHELK
A BUCKET, HEAD OUT AT LOW TIDE AND SEE IF YOU CAN SPOT SOME OF THE BELOW: WWW.SCILLYROCKPOOLSAFARIS.CO.UK
Orkney was fascinated by life beneath the waves and became captivated by the magical marine life he found. He was the inspiration behind Scilly Rockpool Safaris. Samaya explained: “We learnt alongside him - it just snowballed from there. We became known on the islands for being the people who rockpool. Orkney was asked to do a social media takeover for the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust, which he has been doing since he was three.
“He gained lots of fans from this and someone asked if he would take them rockpooling while they were here on holiday. So, last year we took out a family of eight – it was so much fun. We were chatting and they asked why we weren’t doing this as a business and that is how Scilly Rockpool Safaris was born.
“We kicked it off in April 2022 during Walk Scilly and had the best first season, better than we ever expected. We took around 300 people out in 2022 and we can’t wait for this year as we’ve added a few extra things, including rockpooling in the dark, where we look at all the nocturnal marine life under UV light.”
It’s a true family venture. Although Scott
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RECIPE
and Samaya lead the safaris, Orkney and Orli are on hand to expertly unearth a range of rockpool treasures, with the newest addition baby Dusky in tow.
“We all love the thought of heading out on a low tide, not knowing what we might find,” said Samaya. “It’s incredibly exciting.”
Both Samaya and Scott studied degrees in conservation and ecology, with a focus on marine biology. This provided them with a great foundation knowledge and understanding for the species and habitats found around the shores.
Their guided tours of Scilly’s rockpools explore a hidden world of fascinating sea creatures, only accessible at low tide. Visitors will be shown the secrets of the intertidal zone and can learn how to find and identify a wide range of weird and wonderful creatures from starfish to crabs, anemones to blue-rayed limpets.
“The majority of people’s favourite thing to see on our safaris are cowries. Scilly is famous for cowrie shells, but to see a live one is quite spectacular and it never gets old. We find two species - spotted and Arctic. And starfish are always a crowd pleaser, we normally find around five species on each safari.”
The feedback from the hundreds of people who have taken part in a rockpool safari has overwhelmed the Reids.
“There are people who have been holidaying in Scilly for years and never realised how much marine life there was to discover and have never found much before when they’ve been rockpooling,” said Samaya.
“Our aim is to show people where to rockpool, but most importantly how. It is very important to us that people know how to handle the creatures we are looking at, which ones can be looked at more closely and which ones cannot be moved.
Samaya said: “We normally know what species we are going to find and where, but every now and again we get a huge surprise. Our highlights this year have included a common lobster, which also happen to be Orkney’s favourite animal. They aren’t a common species to find in a rockpool and the excitement was electric.
“We found our first greater pipefish, which is essentially a straightened out seahorse. They are absolutely beautiful creatures that are related to seahorses and the males carry the eggs.
“My all-time favourite find was a nudibranch species (sea slug) that we have never found before - a whitesparkled facelina. I was so excited that I cried! It was one of the best moments for me and to honour it I now have a tattoo of that little sea slug.
“It’s also vital that we are not disturbing their habitat and that we leave everything as we found it. In spring, we make people aware that lots of the animals are protecting eggs so we are only able to observe them.
“It then gives people the tools to be able to continue rockpooling where they live and building on that foundation of knowledge, which in turn will deepen their connection to our marine life and hopefully encourage people to help protect our oceans and its inhabitants.
“We have had lots of feedback to say it was the highlight of their holiday, which is just completely amazing and humbling. Most people have booked for their holiday next year and it’s so lovely for us to be able to see these people each year. We have made friendships and so have our children.”
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on the water experiences island wildlife
Isles of Scilly Visit the With stopovers in Cornwall and Devon
Whether you are visiting the Isles of Scilly for a day trip or for a longer break staying near to one of our departure points in Exeter, Newquay, Land’s End or Penzance, we have a selection of accommodation to suit all budgets and tastes. With hotels, bed and breakfasts, self-catering cottages and campsites, there’s a place for you to feel at home, wherever you are in your journey.
Do you have a holiday property you’d like to list on our directory?
Get in touch with our marketing team. Email: marketing@issg.co.uk to find out how you can list your accommodation.
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There is a huge selection of properties in Scilly and near our departure points listed in our accommodation directory.
VISIT: islesofscilly-travel.co.uk /accommodation-home
WEST CORNWALL
COASTAL GAZE Near Penzance www.uniquehideaways.com
Mainland, convenient for Skybus from Land’s End and Scillonian III from Penzance
Search by island or mainland departure point.
ARTISTS RESIDENCE Penzance artistresidence.co.uk/our-hotels/cornwall
Mainland, convenient for Skybus from Land’s End and Scillonian III from Penzance
SPA | STAY EAT & DRINK
BRAND NEW LIDO, AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANT & SPA, OPEN TO NON-RESIDENTS
RESORT VILLAS AND LODGES OWN | STAY
UNA ST IVES, LAITY LANE, CARBIS BAY, ST IVES, TR26 3HW
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 19
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unastives.co.uk
Rooms with a view… and what a glorious view it is. Tregarthen’s must have the most glorious setting of any hotel on St Mary’s, right by the water’s edge, just yards from the quay. The perfect base for your break on Scilly. www.tregarthens.com | 01720 422540 | Located just above the Harbour on St Mary’s • Restaurant and spacious lounge bar • Garden terrace for al fresco dining • Luxury bedrooms, many with sea views • 6 self catering cottages • Free WiFi for all guests RECULVER www.reculver.net A newly remodelled luxury historic house ideally located opposite Holgate's Green with stunning ocean and harbour views from all rooms at the front. perfectly situated right in the heart of St Mary’s.
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HOW TO Inter-island boating
If you are making a list of places you’d love to visit, don’t limit your search to the island you are staying on or visiting.
Hopping between the islands is easy, and means you can explore more of Scilly and discover each island’s unique charm.
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The Isles of Scilly have a long, intriguing ancient history and a remarkable range of historic sites to explore with over 60% of the islands being classed as archaeologically important.
To help you look in all the right places we’ve put together a list of the must-see historical sites. So, when you’re craving a little island history, you’ll know exactly where to look...
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 23 Garrison Walls ST MARY’S Star Castle ST MARY’S Telegraph Tower ST MARY’S Buzza Tower ST MARY’S Penninis Lighthouse ST MARY’S Innisidgen ST MARY’S Halangy Down Ancient Village ST MARY’S Harry’s Walls ST MARY’S St Mary’s Old Church ST MARY’S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Memorial to Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovell ST MARY’S Cromwell’s Castle TRESCO King Charles Castle TRESCO The Old Blockhouse TRESCO St Nicholas Priory TRESCO Day Mark ST MARTIN’S St Agnes Lighthouse ST AGNES Beady Pool ST AGNES Troytown Maze ST AGNES Old Man of Gugh GUGH 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Obadiah’s Barrow GUGH 20 21 HISTORY AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL Archipelago 10 6 15 Bishop Rock Lighthouse 4 MILES WEST OF THE ISLES OF SCILLY (off the map)
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 23 island history
The curtain wall and bastions formed one of the most impressive coastal defence systems in England. Building started in 1588 and later extended in the 18th century to surround almost the whole headland.
Queen Elizabeth I ordered the construction of the eightpointed star fort to look out for enemy ships in 1593 following the Spanish Armada in fear of another invasion. The fort features on the Isles of Scilly Council flag and is now a hotel.
Built as an Admiralty Telegraph Station in 1814, the tower is situated on the highest point on Scilly. In 1831 the site was taken over by the Coastguard and received one of the first radio transmissions in 1898.
The three-storey tower was built in 1821 as a windmill on the site of a Bronze Age kerbed cairn. In 1912 the tower was restored as a memorial with sheltered seating to commemorate a visit by King Edward VII.
Trinity House built the lighthouse in 1911 to replace the one on St Agnes to help vessels enter St Mary’s harbour. It stands at 14m tall and was one of the first gas powered lighthouses to use acetylene.
On the slopes of Innisidgen Hill overlooking Crow Sound and the Eastern Isles there are two Bronze Age burial chambers known as Upper and Lower Innisidgen. Upper Innisidgen is the larger of the two and one of the best-preserved on Scilly.
The village was in continuous use from the late Iron Age until the end of the Roman occupation in Britain. The remains are well preserved with a number of clearly identifiable structures such as circular huts, courtyards and stone drains.
Building began on the Tudor artillery fort in 1551 to protect the approach to Hugh Town. During construction builders realised the location for the fort was not ideal to prevent an attack on the harbour so it was never finished.
The churchyard is one of the most interesting you’ll find. It contains the graves of many centuries worth of Scillonian families, but also the victims of numerous shipwrecks and one former British Prime Minister – Harold Wilson.
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Garrison Walls ST MARY’S
Star Castle ST MARY’S
Telegraph Tower ST MARY’S
Buzza Tower ST MARY’S
Penninis Lighthouse ST MARY’S
Innisidgen ST MARY’S
Halangy Down Ancient Village ST MARY’S
Harry’s Walls ST MARY’S
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Old Church Town ST MARY’S
Photo © Richard Croft (cc-by-sa/2.0)
The stone memorial at Porth Hellick Cove marks where his body was washed up after the disastrous shipwreck of flagship HMS Association off the Isles of Scilly in 1707 which saw 1,400 others perish.
The stone fort was built after the defeat of the Royalists on Scilly in 1651 to guard one of the main routes of entry to the heart of the islands. It is one of the few surviving Cromwellian fortifications in Britain.
The artillery fort overlooking New Grimsby harbour was built between 1548-1551, but the castle’s poor design and location meant it’s guns couldn’t be angled to fire down on ships in the channel below.
The fort was built in the 16th century, but didn’t see any action until the English Civil War. Occupied by the Royalists it was attacked and taken by the Parliamentarian fleet commanded by the famous Admiral Blake in 1651.
A former monastic settlement founded in 946 AD, it was re-founded in 1114 by monks from Tavistock Abbey and was the most remote Cornish monastery. The priory ruins have since been developed into Tresco Abbey Gardens.
The tower was built as a navigation aid in 1683 by Thomas Ekins on the highest point of the island. Measuring 4.8m in diameter and 6.4m high it was originally painted white and when weather allows it’s identifiable from the mainland.
One of the oldest surviving lighthouses in Britain, and the second to be built in Cornwall, it was first lit on 30th October 1680 by coal burners. Standing at 23m tall the tower’s structure unusually features gun ports.
In the 17th century a Venetian cargo ship was wrecked among the western rocks sending thousands of glass beads to the ocean floor. Ever since they have washed ashore in this bay, and that beach soon became known as Beady Pool.
The seven ring unicursal pebble maze is thought to be the work of Amor Clarke, a lighthouse keeper on the island in the 1790s. Such mazes were built on our coasts to protect sailors by sending them fair winds.
Located close to the base of Kittern Hill this dominating granite standing stone called a Menhir dates back to the Bronze Age and is the UK’s most southernly. It stands a little crooked at around 2.7m high.
Dating from the Neolithic era, Obadiah’s Barrow is named after local farmer Obadiah Hicks. When excavated in 1901 a crouching male skeleton was discovered in the middle of the chamber and Bronze Age cremation urns were found.
Built in 1858 to mark the most westerly danger - a rock ledge measuring 46m long and 16m wide. At 49m high it is the joint tallest lighthouse in Britain and was manned until 1992. Take a boat trip to visit the most South Westerly point in Britain.
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 25
The Old Blockhouse TRESCO
St Agnes Lighthouse ST AGNES AND GUGH Beady Pool ST AGNES AND GUGH Troytown Maze ST AGNES AND GUGH Old Man of Gugh ST AGNES AND GUGH 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Obadiah’s Barrow ST AGNES AND GUGH
St Nicholas Priory TRESCO Day Mark ST MARTIN’S
21 Bishop Rock Lighthouse
10 Memorial to Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovell ST MARY’S
Cromwell’s Castle TRESCO
island history
King Charles Castle TRESCO
11 12
TRAVEL WITH Skybus
Land’s End
20 min
Flying all year round and our quickest link to the Isles of Scilly.
Hot and cold food and drinks available at the airport from our very own Western Rocks Coffee Co.
DOG FRIENDLY TRAVEL
Newquay
30 min
Operating from March to November and reaching the islands in just 30 minutes.
DOG FRIENDLY TRAVEL
Exeter
60 min
Operating from March to November.
VIP PERKS
Skybus passengers flying from Exeter can use the code SKYEXT for discounted use of Executive Lounge and free security FastTrack.
PARKING
10% off car parking when using the code skybus2023
THE NORTH CORNWALL COAST
Fly from Exeter or Newquay, and you’ll take in the spectacular north coast: the long stretches of beaches, towering cliffs, and picture-perfect coastal towns.
SENNEN COVE, WEST CORNWALL
A long, famous expanse of beach on the Land’s End peninsula. In summer, the waters are a tropical blue; at other times, the waves can be spectacular.
THE RUGGED CLIFFS OF LAND’S END
This is Cornwall’s furthest tip and is suitably dramatic. As you head out over the Atlantic, you’ll see the cliffs, rocks and waves in an entirely new way.
ICONIC LONGSHIPS LIGHTHOUSE
There’s been a lighthouse protecting ships from the treacherous Land’s End coast since 1795. Longships is almost 150 years old, and can be seen 11 miles away.
SPOT SCILLONIAN III FROM SKYBUS
Look out through your Skybus window for the iconic white passenger ferry, making her crossing to St Mary’s Harbour.
YOUR FIRST GLIMPSE OF SCILLY
An exciting moment when the Isles of Scilly first come into view. Before you know it, you’re looking down at sandy coves and turquoise seas.
YOUR SKYBUS VIEWS Snap and share...
We love seeing photos of your views out of the Skybus windows. Share your best snaps on social media - and don’t forget to tag us!
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ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 27 transportation
THINGS TO DO THE ISLES OF Adventure
A PADDLEBOARDERS’ PARADISE
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Nothing quite beats island life and what better way to enjoy your visit than by hitting the water and exploring the stunning coastline that’s on offer. The simplicity and ease of travel to the Isles of Scilly lends itself perfectly to paddleboarding. Within moments of your arrival, you can simply unpack, inflate and hit the water.
The Isles of Scilly are one of the more unknown paddleboarding destinations, a haven for those looking to explore and enjoy the water. Only a quick flight or ferry from the mainland, access to such tropical paddling is a real treat for anyone who loves a fast and light adventure. Whether you’re a day tripper, weekend warrior or perhaps you’ve got the family in tow. Time on the water is always well spent.
If you’re yet to enjoy the islands from the water or would love some local knowledge of how best to enjoy your paddleboarding holiday, we recommend booking a lesson or tour at one of our Red endorsed schools.
Visit our friends at Sailing Scilly, our recommended school, who will be more than happy to help.
You can contact them by visiting:
The liberating thing about an inflatable standup paddleboard is how easy it is to take with you everywhere you go. You don’t need a van or a roof rack to take it on a road trip, and once you’re at the airport or on the quay, just check in your Red Paddle Co. backpack with the rest of your gear. When you get to the water, the board takes just a few minutes to inflate, and then you’re free to explore.
To find out more about Red Paddle Co. and our range of boards please visit:
Your exclusive offer
SPEND £100 or more on red-equipment.co.uk and get A FREE DRINKS BOTTLE worth £26.95
DISCOUNT CODE: scillyred
Nothing is more pleasurable than loading up your board with a dry bag full of goodies and heading off for a paddle. No motors, distractions or complicated equipment, paddleboarding allows you to be self-sufficient creating the perfect opportunity to explore the water in your own time and pace.
For such small islands the Isles of Scilly are home to countless water borne adventures, with paddleboarding suited for all abilities. From sandy beaches to uninhabited islands, your visit will certainly be full of adventure. For those feeling more adventurous a circumnavigation of the smaller islands is well worth a challenge.
VISIT OUR WEBSITE TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT TRAVELLING TO SCILLY WITH WATERSPORTS EQUIPMENT www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk/ plan-your-trip/luggage
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WWW.RED-EQUIPMENT.CO.UK
WWW.SAILINGSCILLY.COM
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ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 29 on
water experiences
the
Established for more than 40 years, Sailing Scilly is the only licensed activity provider in the islands affiliated by RYA, BSUPA and AALA. Its centres in Porthmellon, St Mary’s and Old Grimsby, Tresco offer safe, sheltered areas perfect to take to the water whatever your ability. Instructors are on hand to assist or offer formal instruction if desired. There are a large range of SUPs, kayaks and boats available at each site, or they can be delivered and hired anywhere in the islands.
30 | S MAGAZINE THINGS TO DO LET’S GO Paddling Sailing Scilly watersports hire and tuition • STAND-UP PADDLEBOARDS • KAYAKS • DINGHIES • DAYBOATS • WETSUITS • SUP AND SAILING TUITION Location TRESCO: Raven’s Porth, Old Grimsby ST MARY’S Porthmellon Beach Contact 01720 422060 info@sailingscilly.com www.sailingscilly.com
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Leaving Porthmellon, glide over the kelp beds watching fish darting for cover in the still waters by the lifeboat slip. Paddle across the harbour enjoying the visiting yachts towards Newford Island on the east side of the harbour. At high water, creep through the shallows into Porthloo, before paddling via Shark’s Pit beach back to the crystal clear waters of Porthmellon.
Highlights:
• PICNIC ON ST HELEN’S
• REFRESHMENTS AT THE RUIN CAFÉ
• SPOTTING SEALS BOBBING IN THE WATERS
Leaving the sheltered beach paddle out across the channel less than 100 meters to explore the archipelago of islets between Tresco and St Martin’s. Peas Hopper, Foreman’s, Crows, Norwethal and Long Ledge, create a maze of islets to paddle amongst.
Paddling over shallow waters and landing on sand bars give you freedom to explore areas often inaccessible by boat.
Why not take a picnic and head over to St Helen’s to land and explore the 8th century chapel ruins or Pest house before a short scramble to the summit for the best views in Scilly. Or head to Teän to enjoy peaceful beaches on your own.
Paddle back along Borough beach under Block house in gin clear waters before returning to the beach and rewarding yourselves with cake and refreshments at the Ruin Café.
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SPORT Kayaking ISLAND Tresco EXPERIENCE TIME 1-3 hours SPORT Paddleboarding ISLAND St Mary’s EXPERIENCE TIME 1 hour
on the water experiences
Tresco
Tresco is best defined by the Abbey Garden: its worldrenowned, 19th century garden and home to some 20,000 sub-tropical plants. Like anywhere on the Isles of Scilly, Tresco also has its share of beaches, panoramas and secluded spots.
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THE ISLANDS
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 33 the islands
REASONS TO VISIT FESTIVAL OF nature
DATES AND DISCOUNTS
Plan your visit...
This year, the Wildlife Trust is hosting two Festival of Nature events. We’re offering discounted travel for those travelling to the islands for the events. Use the code below for 10% off Skybus return travel from Land’s End Airport and Scillonian III travel from Penzance.
spring
FESTIVAL OF NATURE
12-15 MAY 2023
CODE: WTFN0523
(travel 10/05/23 - 23/05/23)
autumn
FESTIVAL OF NATURE
13-17 OCT 2023
CODE: WTFN1023
(travel 11/10/23 - 18/10/23)
In October 2022, the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust was delighted to welcome over 500 people to the first Festival of Nature. There were over 60 events delivered by Scilly’s local nature conservation charity, alongside a range of partners from across the archipelago.
Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust (IOSWT), alongside local partners, organised its first Festival of Nature. There was something for everyone to get involved with thanks to the support from the local community and businesses, all designed to bring people closer to our unique wildlife and celebrating Scilly’s iconic land- and seascapes.
Activities included farm walks on St Agnes, Bryher and St Martin’s, celebrating our local agriculture and sustainability practises; artistic and creative workshops covering a range of mediums, from watercolours to macramé to nature journalling; live music
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PHOTO: IOSWT
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and literary events, including performances from folk singer Seth Lakeman and author Wyl Menmuir; workshops in Tresco Abbey Gardens; and a chance to explore Scilly’s landscapes and enjoy local, expert knowledge.
IOSWT was also delighted to host Scilly’s first SWISH event , a sustainable way to update your wardrobe, and a fun-butchallenging Bird and Wildlife Charity Quiz There was also a tea Party at Tregarthen’s Hotel, Scilly’s first sustainability debate aimed at sharing ideas for eco-friendly best practice across the archipelago, and guest appearances at several events from Edward Rowe, the Kernow King. The local Five Islands Academy even coincided its ‘Sustainability Project Week’ to run with the festival, so that children and young people across the islands could learn more about conservation on the Isles of Scilly. Hundreds of people supported the work of IOSWT through a raffle, which was supported by over 50 local businesses and individuals and raised £1,700. When added to the revenue raised through additional
donations, events and more, the festival was a huge success in raising the profile of the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust and in connecting more people with island wildlife.
In 2023, IOSWT will be hosting another two Festival of Nature weekends, the first in the spring from 12-15th May, and the second in the autumn from 13th-16th October. The festival is being organised in partnership with Creative Islands and will once again involve a range of walks, talks, creative activities and more.
The Isles of Scilly Festival of Nature 2022 programme was curated in partnership with Creative Islands, funded by Arts Council England to support creative industries, arts development and cultural tourism on Scilly. The event represented a huge range of organisations which helped develop and promote the eclectic programme, from the Islands’ Partnership to Five Islands Academy, as well as Isles of Scilly Travel which offered a discount code to people travelling to Scilly across the festival.
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 35
island wildlife island experiences
WILDLIFE BIRD OF THE Century words
by Lucy McRobert
The Isles of Scilly have been a hotspot for rare birds - and birdwatchers - for half a century. In fact, the islands are often cited as being Europe’s top location for rare and migrant birds.
Sightings of rare birds attract short notice visits from birders around the UK, with recent highlights including the Egyptian vulture (2021), the belted kingfisher (2018) and a myrtle warbler (2022).
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PHOTO: MARC READ | BLACKBURNIAN WARBLER
Lucy McRobert from the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust shares the story of the “bird of the century” found on Bryher.
John has been visiting the Isles of Scilly every October for decades - his years of loyalty suddenly and heroically paying off. It’s hard to overestimate the frenzy this sighting caused in the birding world. Hundreds of birders of all ages dropped everything to travel to Bryher, hoping to catch a glimpse of this tiny black and yellow bird, some travelling the length of the UK.
Blackburnian warblers are an American new-world warbler, from the East Coast USA or Canada. They migrate to Central and South America every autumn. This individual bird will have been caught up in a storm and whisked across the Atlantic, ending up on Scilly.
It was the first time one had been seen in England, and the first ‘twitchable’ one of its kind in the UK. Social media went crazy, and it made the news around the world.
Only a handful of people have ever spotted one in the UK (previous one-day
records came from St Kilda, Skomer and Fair Isle).
St Mary’s Boatmen’s Association were delighted with the 250 people who descended on Bryher within the first six hours, and the next two weeks were monumental for UK twitchers.
Within days, birders from Scotland, East Anglia, Northumberland and even Shetland made their way to Scilly to see the bird. One person travelled from the most northerly point of Unst, one of the Shetland Isles, making their way across the full length of the UK - and back again - to see it.
Estimates predict that well over 1,000 people saw the Blackburnian warbler. Allowing for people with birding holidays already booked on the islands, plus residents and those already staying, there could have been as many as 500 additional people visiting Scilly over those two weeks, maybe more.
Most of those will have used Skybus or Scillonian III to travel to the islands, as well as making use of local boat operators, visiting local eateries and several staying overnight, too.
The income they generate provides a nice end-ofseason boost to many establishments, not to mention the pubs who served numerous celebratory pints!
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 37
In October 2022, a Blackburnian warbler (described as the ‘bird of the century’ by many of Britain’s top ornithologists) was found on Bryher by visiting birder John Judge.
island wildlife
ISLAND PRODUCE SOMETHING Special
The Isles of Scilly really is a hub of creativity. We’ve partnered up with some of our favourite Isles of Scilly makers and businesses to create our ‘something special’ produce guide.
All inspired by these special islands and a way to enjoy a little bit of Scilly from home and remind you of your island memories.
Scilly’s postal flower service sending gift boxes of island grown scented flowers all year round to any UK address.
Unique Isles of Scilly designs on sustainable garments for the whole family. Designed in Scilly, our ranges of clothing and bags help you keep memories of special times in Scilly with you wherever you go. More new designs this year, supporting the IOS Wildlife Trust.
Available locally on Scilly sc-salt.co.uk @sc_salt
Simply made from the sea and the sun on the Isles of Scilly. Made by leaving the crystal-clear water of St Martin’s Par to evaporate under the famous Isles of Scilly sunshine.
Handcrafted by Arthur and Hilary at their distillery on St Mary’s in various sizes. Ideal for gifts or to enjoy during your island stay. They can also post your bottles home in their plastic free bespoke packaging. Enjoy a glass in any venue on the island to taste the true Spirit of Scilly.
ONE
IOS STEAMSHIP GROUP
CALL: 01736 334220
In 2020, the Company celebrated 100 years of ‘delivering for Scilly’. As part of the celebrations, we worked with local artist Sue Lewington to create a special centenary illustrated book. The book is filled with watercolour paintings illustrating and telling the story of the Company and its fascinating history.
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 39
SCILLY FLOWERS | ST MARTIN’S Churchtown Farm scillyflowers.co.uk
SCILLY BILLY | ST MARTIN’S Visit our shop on St Martin’s scillybilly.com @scilly_billy
SC SALT | ST MARTIN’S
Just the thing to remind you of these special sand fringed islands...
SCILLY SPIRIT | ST MARY’S Award-winning Island Gin scillyspirit.com
HUNDRED YEARS
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INSIDER SCILLY FROM Above
AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHY AND WORDS
BY GARETH TIBBS
I have always enjoyed photography and videography spending my time filming kitesurfing and windsurfing.
In 2011 I married a Bryher girl and we wanted to raise a family on the island she had grown up on.
I set up a web and graphic design business and spent a lot of time taking photos to use as content. I’d seen the potential of drones and what they could offer and bought my first one in 2014. This led to me turning my hobby into a dream job starting Above and Below Imagery in 2019.
Seeing Scilly from the air is truly a magical experience and offers a different perspective. I now get to film everything from nesting puffins to weddings on beaches. I’ve worked with and provided footage for the BBC, National Geographic, Disney, ITV, Netflix, YouTube and Channel 5. My favourite thing to capture is definitely whales and dolphins. Since ‘Pi’ the humpback came to visit us in 2020 we have been seeing a huge increase in the larger mammals visiting our shores.
By far my best capture is the fin whale with the dolphins. It has been my most rewarding shot taking two years to capture them from this angle.
SPOTTING GUIDE
Humpback whales
From above, you might see the large, white pectoral fins.
They grow up to 15-16m and have a humped back where the dorsal sits.
They regularly breach and fluke.
Their blows are busy, often around 4-5m high.
It’s a difficult balance trying to get the best shots while also respecting the birds and animals I film. I never want to cause them stress or upset so often I have to take a step back and miss a shot for the benefit of leaving them in their natural home. It’s more important they thrive in their environment and I like to think that I’m working with them rather than invading their home.
I got my commercial license in 2018 and I always get permission from Air Traffic Control every time I fly to make sure I’m flying safely as the islands sit in a flight restriction zone.
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“My favourite thing to capture is definitely whales and dolphins.”
island wildlife island life
“Seeing Scilly from the air is truly a magical experience and offers a different perspective. I now get to film everything from nesting puffins to weddings on beaches.”
@aboveandbelowimagery
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“The past three years have seen an upsurge in whale sightings throughout the winter months around Scilly.
We’re regularly seeing fin, humpback and minke whales from shore and from boats; all three species can be seen in the summer months, too, but it appears that winter is fast becoming the time of year to admire these majestic creatures.
We’re not entirely sure why we’re seeing more individuals now, but experts think that they are being attracted to local waters by big shoals of small fish, and also that with the cessation of commercial whaling across much of the world, whale numbers are increasing.”
There have been at least two individual humpbacks around Scilly this year, and they are generally (but not exclusively) closer inshore. From above, you might see the large, white pectoral fins. They grow up to 15-16m and have a humped back where the dorsal sits. They regularly breach and fluke. Their blows are bushy, often around 4-5m tall.
One humpback in particular has caused a stir locally. Nicknamed ‘Pi’, this individual was first spotted on Christmas Eve 2020 in between the islands and stayed well into 2021, and then reappeared in December 2022. Pi is identified by the pi-shaped marking under the dorsal on the right-hand side and is relatively small. We don’t know whether this is a male or female, as humpback whales are notoriously difficult to sex without DNA. It has been recorded in numerous locations (using the markings on the tail as a sort of fingerprint), including in SW Ireland in 2020 and in the Minch off the west coast of Scotland in August 2022.
Fin whales are the second biggest animal to ever live, growing up to 25-27m. However, you’ll rarely see more than 5% of the animal, as they break the surface at a shallow angle, keep their bodies low and the dorsal fin disappears quickly as they glide through the water. If the jaw is visible (this is unlikely), it is almost unique in the animal kingdom in having asymmetric markings, with a pale lower right lip and a dark lower left lip. They generally have a smooth, grey back, and have a huge blow, being up to 10m tall.
We also see minke whales regularly around the Isles of Scilly. They are much smaller than fin whales, growing only
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 45
island wildlife island life
We caught up with Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust to find out more about these magnificent marine mammals and their sightings around the islands.
Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust
We look after around half of the Isles of Scilly, making sure that our islands stay special. We help wildlife thrive and provide opportunities for us all to enjoy nature. Every year, we...
• Manage over 700ha of land.
• Monitor and conserve important species, from seabirds and seals to bats and rare plants.
• Provide more than 85km (over 50 miles) of paths around ten islands, so people can explore.
• Protect archaeology, including over 100 Scheduled Monuments.
• Work with local people and visitors to make Scilly more sustainable.
You an help us Keep Scilly Special by joining us or donating.
ios-wildlifetrust.org.uk
Donate here
46 | S MAGAZINE Get in touch w: ios-wildlifetrust.org.uk @ScillyWildlife on social media t: 01720 422153 e: hello@ios-wildlifetrust.org.uk a: The Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust Trenoweth, St Mary’s TR21 0NS
Spotted on Scilly...
There is so much to see and do on the Isles of Scilly. How many of these island expereinces and wildlife sightings can you check off during your visit?
GREY SEALS
If you’ve visited Scilly before, you’ve probably had an encounter with a grey seal lazing on a rock or out at sea. Keep a lookout for the head of an inquisitive seal breaking the waves offshore.
Best time to spot: All year round.
PUFFINS
Our favourite seabird but tricky to spot. Puffins are only present when nesting. As they nest around some of our remoter rocky islands, make sure you book yourself on a wildlife-watching boat trip to give yourself the best chance of spotting this beauty. Best time to spot: from April to July.
INTER-ISLAND BOATING
St. Mary’s Quay is bustling with local boatmen, ready to take you to the ‘off islands’. You’ll find blackboards with times and routes for trips on the quay.
THE DAYMARK, ST MARTIN’S
The famous and iconic Daymark was built in 1683 and is a navigation aid. It stands tall on the top of the island, distinguished by its red and white colours. Look out when you fly into the islands for the landmark below!
CROMWELL’S CASTLE, TRESCO
Cromwell’s Castle stands tall guarding the channel between Bryher and Tresco and was built in 1651. ations in Britain.
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St Martin’s
All around the island, you’ll find white, sandy coves that slope gently into crystal-clear water. It’s a tantalising choice. But world-class beaches are by no means the only reason to visit this laid back, welcoming island.
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THE ISLANDS
the islands
OUR FAITHFUL Freight ships
She was purchased by the Steamship Group in 1989 and has been serving the islands ever since.
The Gry is 123ft long, can carry 450 tonnes of cargo on three decks, has a crew of ten and is captained by Masters Tom Sexton and Jack Glasson.
They carry everything from food and building supplies to fuel and machinery to the islands all year-round – as well as removing the islands’ waste. Without them, Scilly would be lost. Here we go behind-thescenes to meet the crews and discover a bit more about Gry Maritha and Lyonesse Lady.
Cargo destined for the Isles of Scilly begins its journey in Penzance, where it is loaded onto Gry Maritha. Gry Maritha carries cargo to the islands – and back again - three times a week; it is then unloaded on St Mary’s Quay and distributed to the offislands by Lyonesse Lady. It is a system that works seamlessly around the needs of the islands, with visitors often not even knowing the ships have been and gone again.
The Gry, named after the daughter of the first captain, was built in Norway and christened in June 1981.
Over the 34 years she has been in our ownership, the Gry has carried more than half a million tonnes of cargo to and from Scilly – including fire engines, a helicopter, entire timber frame homes and even two reindeer.
We estimate Gry Maritha has made the journey to Scilly and back more than 10,000 times – that’s an impressive 370,000 miles –equivalent to sailing around the world 14 times.
Over the years the Gry has been a real workhorse. She’s a strongly-built ship and is actually ice-class as she was built to work in the north of Norway.
During the Covid lockdowns, crews continued their work serving the Isles of Scilly as normal. The main difference was, they weren’t allowed to leave the ship, so they stayed aboard in two-week shifts to keep the lifeline link for Scilly.
Master Tom Sexton said: “Gry Maritha is a ship full of character. She has been moulded to perfectly serve the Islands over the last 34 years, from a specially made frame to enable her to carry up to nine gigs
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It’s no exaggeration to say our faithful freight ships
Gry Maritha and Lyonesse Lady are a real lifeline to the Isles of Scilly. Almost everything the islands need to survive are brought in by sea from the mainland.
on the main deck to her fuel delivery equipment that syncs exactly with the infrastructure built into St Mary’s Quay.”
Our inter-island freight ship Lyonesse Lady has been serving the Isles of Scilly community for more than 30 years – each year carrying more than 5,000 tonnes of freight to the offislands.
The Lyonesse, named after the legendary kingdom stretching between Land’s End and the Isles of Scilly, was purpose-built for the Isles of Scilly Steamship Group in 1991 by Lochaber Marine in Fort William. She replaced the old wooden freight vessel Gugh, which was an ex Royal Navy motor launch, in order to further support the islanders with a dedicated year-round freight service.
Apart from post, anything that needs to go to, or from, an off-island is taken on Lyonesse Lady. More than half of the freight it carries every year is food and perishable goods, but other items include building supplies, vehicles, animals, flat pack buildings, heavy machinery, portable homes, Christmas trees, electric buses, flowers and waste.
The Lyonesse is 15.5m long, can carry 13 tonnes of cargo and has a dedicated crew of just two – Skipper Ben Jenkins and Assistant Launch Skipper Connor Whitmore.
She visits each off-island
at least once a day –sometimes twice a day, depending on freight and tide - six days a week. Her schedule is entirely dependent on the tide, as she can only get to Bryher at high water.
The Lyonesse is estimated to travel between 5,000 and 6,000 nautical miles every year – equivalent to crossing the Atlantic Ocean twice. In her lifetime, she’s clocked up more than 155,000 miles.
Skipper Ben Jenkins, who joined the ship in 2018, said: “Without a doubt, the Lyonesse is a lifeline for the off-islands. What the Gry is to St Mary’s, we are to the off-islands.
to carry back to St Mary’s or to the other islands. This includes all waste and recycling from the off-islands, plus things like Troytown Farm ice cream, flowers, gin and boat salvage.
“Our final trip of the day leaves St Mary’s Quay around 2.30pm, and we are back again by 5pm. It’s a busy operation and one the off-islanders are very appreciative of.”
Ben, who worked on the tripper boats before joining Lyonesse Lady, added: “I love my job and am extremely proud of the work we do. Every day is different and to get to go boating every day, especially through the winter, is a privilege.”
Lyonesse Lady in figures
• Twin 215hp engines
“We start work at 7am helping to sort freight on St Mary’s Quay, then at 8am we start loading Lyonesse Lady. By 8.30am we’re ready for our first trip of the day.
“The order we visit the off-islands depends on the tide, but generally when it’s high water in the morning we go to Tresco and Bryher first, then back to St Mary’s to reload for St Martin’s and St Agnes. If it’s low water in the morning, we tend to do St Agnes first as we can get to St Agnes at any tide.
“Once we’ve unloaded the freight onto each offisland, we backload freight
• Capable of 8 knots
• 13 tonnes of deck cargo
• 2.5 tonnes crane lift
• 5-6,000 nautical miles a year
• Carries 5,000 tonnes of freight each year
Gry Maritha in figures
• 123ft long
• 450 tonnes of cargo
• Carries an average 15,000 tonnes of freight each year
• 11,000 nautical miles each year
• Built in 1981
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behind the scenes
52 | S MAGAZINE Your exclusive offer 20% OFF the full range of meals and treats at FORTHGLADE.COM DISCOUNT CODE: HOLIDOGS23 Code valid for one use per person. Valid until 20.03.2024. 20% off 52 | S MAGAZINE
Planning adventures with your canine companion
Enjoying days out or short breaks away with a canine companion is a wonderful way to enjoy memorable experiences together and build a precious bond with your dog. Adventures with a dog often means more time spent in the great outdoors, but also dogs are brilliant at helping us switch off; helping us take in sights, sounds, smells and generally keeping us ‘present and mindful’. To help make the most of adventures with our fourlegged friends, we’ve teamed up with Devonian dog lovers Forthglade, makers of natural pet food, for some dogfriendly travel tips.
Keeping Fuelled up
If you’re planning a full day trip (or mini-break) with your dog, then don’t forget food and water supplies. A water bottle with a lid that acts as a bowl for your dog can save space in rucksacks and if you need to feed your dog a complete meal while you’re out, plan a quiet spot en route where they can eat in peace calmly.
Try to avoid exercising dogs on a full tummy; allow your dog at least 30 minutes after eating before you set off walking again. Alternatively, you can feed pieces of their meal throughout your day, as
rewards for all the exploring! This will mean they’re not eating a whole serving in one go, but they get the energy they need throughout the day.
Remember that dogs can’t keep moving for as long as us - although they might not show it! They need double the amount of sleep as us humans, so if you’re planning a day-long adventure, schedule a snooze session in along the way – maybe 40 winks during coffee stops, lunches or at tea time.
Visiting new locations
When visiting new areas with a dog try and do some research in advance. Check to see if there are any areas with restricted dog access, perhaps needing dogs onlead due to wildlife such as livestock, deer or even ground nesting birds.
Waste management!
Don’t forget to carry waste bags at all times, so that the environment is always left the way you found it. If waste bins are not as frequent as you’d hope then double bagging is useful and just pop the bag on the exterior of a rucksack to help avoid any unpleasant aromas - until you reach a bin.
Lead the way
Teaching your dog to walk calmly by your side can help with on-lead and off-lead walking - meaning your dog is happy walking next to - or behind - you, instead of running back and forth risking sending you (or other walkers) flying.
If your dog isn’t comfortable in the presence of other dogs and people, walking in a busy location for a long time could be stressful for them. Try to plan walks in quieter spaces or where your dog can have space around them. If you sense any anxiety, distract your dog with some tasty treats or calming affection, and then confidently continue walking until you sense they are calm again.
Your dog may be microchipped but don’t forget to add a tag to their collar or harness. Name, address and mobile phone number is useful just in case you ever get separated.
Breathe it in!
Enjoying adventures with a dog can be an incredible experience for us all, helping to nourish our time together. For further details on making the most of adventures with your dog visit
WWW.FORTHGLADE.COM/
ADVENTURE-TAILS
Forthglade have a wide range of delicious natural recipes for dogs; wet food, cold pressed dry dog food and tasty treats – all packed with high quality ingredients and free from junk or fillers. Check out the tail-wagging recipes at FORTHGLADE.COM.
ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 53
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
St Agnes
Unspoiled, and a little untamed - with mysterious, Bronze Age archaeology and rare bird species brought in on the Atlantic currents. If you want to get away from it all, this is the place. At low tide you can walk across the sandbar to the mysterious neighbouring island of Gugh.
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ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK | 55 the islands
INSIDER SCILLY’S Oldest Resident
I have lived on the Isles of Scilly since I was one-year-old – so I’m not Scillonian. I’m a proud islander though, and that’s what counts. I was born in Penzance in 1923, and my parents, John and Lilie Symons, moved to St Martin’s the following year.
I was the youngest of three. I had two brothers, George and Ronald, and we moved for my father to better himself. He worked at Lower Town Farm, which at the time was his cousin’s flower farm.
Growing up on St Martin’s was heaven. I can remember going to the little school there and playing on the lovely beaches. It was home, so I never knew any different, but now I realise it was another world. There weren’t many cars about, and it was idyllic. To be honest it hasn’t changed much, even today. It’s still my favourite island.
One of my earliest memories was waiting to meet Prince Edward, who later became King Edward VIII, on the quay on St Mary’s. We’d come over from St Martin’s and I can even remember what he was wearing – a khaki suit, with tight trousers tucked into his boots. It was very exciting. There were just a few islanders cheering, but I can still see him now.
When I was 12, we came to live on St Mary’s and I’ve lived here ever since. I’ve never lived anywhere else. My dad went to work on a daffodil farm at Holy Vale, where he worked until he retired at 65, and we lived on Church Street. I went to Carn Thomas School until I was 14, then I left and went out to work.
I can vividly remember war time when there were lots of British servicemen based on Scilly. We’d go out dancing in the town hall every night.
When I was 20 years old, I worked in a grocery shop called Ashford’s, which was where The Galley is now. A young man called Bryan Richards lived next door, and one day he asked me what I was doing that evening. That was the beginning of our story together. We got married in the Methodist Church four years later.
At first, we lived with my mum and dad in Church Street, but before long we got
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At 99-years-old, Hilda Richards is Scilly’s oldest resident. Here, Hilda – who turns 100 in July 2023 –talks exclusively to S-Magazine about her memories of growing up on the islands and why she would never dream of leaving.
a house at Sally Port, near the Garrison, where we lived for 25 years.
Bryan was a farm worker until the 1960s, when he decided to buy a boat and become a fisherman. We had the Mab first, and then the Forget-Me-Not. He fished the waters around Scilly for crab and lobster, and when he brought in his catch I’d pick the crab – sometimes 10lb a day – before we sold it to the hotels and boarding houses. It was a wonderful time.
Straight after school I worked at Normandy Farm tying daffodils. Scilly’s flowers were famous even back then. I then worked in Ashford’s, followed by a drapery shop called Nuwear in the 1960s, which is where the Bishop and Wolf is now.
My final job was in Mumford’s paper shop. The Prime Minister Harold Wilson used to come in every day for his paper with his dog Paddy. I can remember one day the dog pinched a tennis ball and it made the papers!
In 1956 we bought a plot of land on Jackson’s Hill from the Duchy for £56. It was our garden, we used it to grow flowers. Then in 1972 we built our house there, and I still live here now, looking out over Porthmellon and up to Telegraph.
Bryan and I had a little flat-bottomed boat and we loved going to the off-islands and exploring. We’d go shrimping and cockling. They were very happy times.
We didn’t have children of our own but have a wonderful extended family of nephews and nieces who still look after me to this day, especially my boy Duane Ware. Back when I was small, nobody came on holiday to Scilly – people didn’t even know where Scilly was! That all changed when Harold Wilson started coming here. He made it popular, and that’s when it started to get busy.
The islands haven’t really changed all that much since I was a little girl, which is part of its charm. There have been a few new houses built, and it was much quieter during the summer months, but it’s still the Scilly I know and love.
Winter is my favourite time. I love the peacefulness. I still can’t believe I’ve been lucky enough to have lived all my life in this beautiful place. Scillonian people are so nice and friendly, and they all look out for one another. You don’t get that everywhere. It’s the best place in the world to live – I can’t imagine being anywhere else.
island life
Early day trips
Day trips have long been a popular way of visiting the magical Isles of Scilly – but did you realise just how long?
Isles of Scilly Travel has been busy delving through the archives researching the history of day trips to the islands and have come across mentions of day trips as far back as 1923 – 100 years ago!
In 1935, a day trip on Scillonian I cost 10 shillings – equivalent to £1.20 today – and a return was 16 shillings and six pence, which is £2.04.
By 1959, our day trips were hugely popular with passengers visiting for the day on board day Scillonian II and continued over the years. In 1979, Scillonian III embarked on its first full season with passengers making the excursion at a cost of £7.
The day trip market has continued to go from strength to strength since then. We still offer great value day returns to the islands on Scillonian III and Skybus, or passengers can enjoy the best of both –flying out and sailing back all in a single day.
It’s been wonderful to look back through the archives and see how day trips have stood the test of time. They’re a fabulous way of dipping your toes into the water of Scilly for the first time; experiencing something completely unique and different to the mainland.
They still represent such good value for money – how many unforgettable days out can you think of for £35? We’re delighted that so many passengers agree with us and want to visit Scilly on a day trip.
HISTORY
SCILLY’S
island history
transportation
MEET THE TEAM OUR FIRST FEMALE Master Victoria Bolitho
In December 2021 we appointed Victoria Bolitho as Master of Scillonian III. She started training for a career at sea aged 22 – a decade later she was promoted to Master of Scillonian III. Victoria served as Scillonian III’s Chief Officer for two-anda-half years, and has taken the helm from Pete Crawford who was with the Company for a remarkable 39 seasons.
Victoria said: “Passing my Master’s Unlimited qualification was an achievement which made me really proud. On average it takes 10 years in this industry before you can sit the qualification.
“I am extremely proud to become Master of Scillonian III. It is an instantly recognisable and hugely important ship, loved by so many who travel on her.
“It is an honour and privilege to sit in the captain’s seat, but especially to have taken over from Pete. He has taught me so much, and I will miss him greatly.
In January 2022, Scillonian III marked the end of an era as Master Pete Crawford retired after a remarkable 39 seasons – and approximately 666,000 miles - on board our iconic ship.
In December 2021, we appointed Victoria Bolitho, our first female Master since the Company was founded more than 100 years ago.
“I can’t wait to be part of the exciting next chapter in Scillonian’s history.
Victoria joined an elite group of seafarers after gaining her Master’s unlimited certificate – the highest qualification for professional mariners. This means she is qualified to take command of virtually any ship, of any size, sailing anywhere in the world.
Just two per cent of merchant navy seafarers are women - and an even smaller number become Master mariners.
Victoria has now started her second season as Master of our passenger ferry, Scillonian III, and looks forward to welcoming on board passengers during 2023.
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behind the scenes
HIGHLIGHTS
Some highlights across the years include:
• SUPER PODS - OF MORE THAN 100 common dolphins
• KILLER WHALES - which despite their name are in fact a dolphin, the biggest of all the dolphins reaching up to 10m in length
• HUMPBACK WHALE - seen in 2016
• FEEDING FRENZIESdiving gannets, leaping tuna and large groups of feeding dolphins
• IN 2017, THE FIRST REPORTED SIGHTING OF STRIPED DOLPHINS IN THE AREA - Prior to this the species had only been seen stranded on beaches in the area
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Wildlife roundup
2022 was another exciting year for wildlife spots – with a huge fin whale and the “bird of the century” both sighted in and around Scilly.
Wildlife remains a top priority for visitors to the islands, so we were delighted when the Scillonian III crossing was named the UK’s highest diversity ferry route for wildlife spotting by charity ORCA in 2022.
ORCA, which is dedicated to studying and protecting whales, dolphins and porpoises in UK waters, completed another year of vital cetacean monitoring surveys on board Scillonian III.
The highlight of the season was a fin whale – the second largest animal on the planet at 27m long – during a survey in June. It was one of seven whales spotted in 2022 by the charity’s volunteers from the decks of Scillonian III – incredible when you think there were only 13 surveys in 2022. Between March and October there were a total of 95 sightings, totalling an impressive 366 animals.
The most common sighting was of common dolphins, with 299 animals spotted. Six species of cetacean were spotted, along with grey seals, sunfish and a basking shark.
Lucy Babey, ORCA’s Head of Science and Conservation, said: “We’ve had an incredible survey season in 2022. We’d like to thank the Isles of Scilly Steamship Group once again for its support in enabling us to carry out our vital monitoring work, so that we can help to protect these incredible animals for the future.”
Also on Scillonian III, marine wildlife conservation charity MARINElife had a busy first year of seabird surveys with a total of 7,758 birds spotted on five crossings.
There were 25 difference species recorded including an Arctic Skua, a Storm Petrel and a Velvet Scoter.
MARINElife’s Research Director Professor Tom Brereton said: “We are delighted to have started recording seabirds on this route, given the high diversity of species present. This will become the first ferry route in England where gold standard seabird recording by volunteers is being carried out, so will be an important step forward in our understanding of seabird distributions and trends over time –data that is vital to science and future conservation efforts.”
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WILDLIFE
2022
island wildlife transportation
EVENTS
DATES FOR THE
Diary
WALK SCILLY
15-21 APRIL 2023
Enjoy a week exploring the Isles of Scilly guided by local experts. Discover rich history and archaeology, or why not have a go at foraging or take a sea safari to see Scilly’s spectacular wildlife.
THE LOW TIDE EVENT
20 APRIL 2023
When lunar forces combine to create dramatic spring tides, the channel between Tresco and Bryher is dry enough to cross between the islands on foot. Enjoy a unique Scillonian experience: a pop-up festival, mid-channel between the islands of Tresco and Bryher.
WORLD PILOT GIG CHAMPIONSHIPS
28-30 APRIL 2023
2023 welcomes back the 32nd World Pilot Gig Championships to be held over the first May spring bank holiday weekend. The championships were first held in 1990, only attracting a few crews from Cornwall, but the islands now welcome crews from all around the world to compete.
FESTIVAL OF NATURE (SPRING) 12-15 MAY 2023
The Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust and partners are delighted to bring you the Festival of Nature, split over two long weekends this May and October. There will be guided walks, fascinating talks, creative workshops including nature writing, events, and quizzes.
CREATIVE SCILLY
12-20 MAY 2023
Experience the creativity of Scilly as local artists and creatives open their doors for a range of workshops including fused glass, watercolour painting, polymer clay and lino-cut printing. This spring we also welcome theatre, music and poetry to Scilly.
SCILLY FOLK FESTIVAL
25-30 MAY 2023
A long weekend of music, song and dance is in store, featuring some of the best folk music from Scilly and the South West.
SCILLY SWIM SWIMQUEST CHALLENGE
6-9 SEPT 2023
The annual 15km staged swim challenge between islands: 6 swims, 6 walks. The combination of swimming in the cold sea with the backdrop of the beautiful islands is incredible. It is a tough event, but it creates a special bond to the islands.
TASTE OF SCILLY FOOD FESTIVAL
15-24 SEPT 2023
Welcome to 10 days of mouth-watering food and drink experiences across the Isles of Scilly. From beach BBQs and islandhopping supper safaris to vineyard tours and gin tastings there is something for every kind of food and drink lover.
SCILLY DARK SKIES
WEEK
30 SEPT – 6 OCT 2023
Scilly Dark Skies Week is a celebration of grassroots astronomy and Scilly’s wondrously dark night skies, hosted by the islands’ community observatory on St Martin’s.
FESTIVAL OF NATURE
(AUTUMN)
13-16 OCT 2023
The Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust and partners are delighted to bring you the Festival of Nature, split over two long weekends this May and October. There will be guided walks, fascinating talks, creative workshops including nature writing, events, and quizzes.
TRAVEL DISCOUNTS Plan your visit...
We’re offering discounted travel for those travelling to the islands for selected events. To find out more, visit: www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk /events
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CHALLENGE
SWIM
WORLD PILOT
CHAMPIONSHIPS DARK SKIES LOW TIDE EVENT FOLK FESTIVAL
OF NATURE
PHOTO
CREDIT: SWIMQUEST
GIG
FESTIVAL
TRUST island experiences TASTE OF SCILLY DARK SKIES LOW TIDE EVENT
OF SCILLY CREATIVE SCILLY
SCILLY
PHOTO
CREDIT: IOS WILDLIFE
PHOTO CREDIT: VISIT ISLES
WALK
OF SCILLY For full event details, visit: www.visitislesofscilly.com/experience/whats-on
PHOTO CREDIT: VISIT ISLES
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St Mary’s
Often referred to as the hub of the islands and the main centre for all the local services. It’s the island you will arrive on and where you’ll find most of the shops and the boats to other islands. With beaches, shopping, countryside paths and coastal trails - there’s always something new to try.
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THE ISLANDS
the islands