max*d Issue 08

ISUZU UTE AUSTRALIA

ISSUE 8

Throw in a line:

onthe

edge!

Brett Wilson goes hunting for bream

Buskers of Peel Street:

Rising stars at the Tamworth Music Festival

Dust & Dust-ups:

Queensland’s own Outback Fight Club

We drive the Great Ocean Road in a D-MAX

PLUS: TRICKS AND SPILLS WITH A FREESTYLE MOTOCROSS CHAMP

IT’S A LIFESTYLE THING...

Personalise your D-MAX to suit your adventure. Whether it’s the Monday to Friday slog with the tools of the trade on board, or the weekend warrior missions into the great outdoors. With Isuzu UTE Genuine Accessories forged by quality engineering and decades of automotive experience, your D-MAX can be fitted out with all the nifty bits and style you need… for greater “pulling power*”.

To get your D-MAX geared up, whatever the occasion… see your local Isuzu UTE dealer or call 1300 147 898.

VISIT ISUZUUTE.COM.AU TO VIEW THE ENTIRE D-MAX RANGE *Pulling power can’t be guaranteed, no matter what you think of yourself, it all depends on your looks, charm and financial status. This also doesn’t give your D-MAX the extra capability to tow more than its maximum capacity of 3 tonnes for 4x4 and 2.5 tonnes for 4x2.

FLASHBACK

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: 2 7 9 1 R E T S A F E TH ’ ISUZU MOTORS INTRODUCING YLE UTE: LAST RETRO-ST FASTER THE

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FETY an WITH ROAD SA

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■ CONTENTS

ISSUE 8 04 NEWS

What’s happening in the world of Isuzu UTE Australia

07 WISH LIST

Sleek, sexy gadgets that could save your life ... or make it a lot less painful

08 ME ’N’ MY MAX

Five D-MAX owners on why they rate their utes – plus one who reckons it saved his wife and daughter

Features

10 TECH HEAD

24 THE FINISHING LINE

The pitfalls of towing a caravan, boat or trailer – and how to avoid them

Freestyle motocross champ Robbie Marshall on why he's not afraid to fly

12 SPECIAL REPORT

28 PASSPORT

All you need to know about the Isuzu Car Club of Australia, and how to join

We visit an old Burmese trading post that’s like something out of a pirate movie

15 GREAT AUSSIE DOORSTEP

32 UNSUNG HEROES

Sheree Everitt’s dos and don’ts for travelling with kids

The non-tear-jerking story of Fred Brophy and the world’s last boxing tent

40 GET STUFFED

Making bush bread on a camp fire with the ‘Dojo Baker’

36 OUT OF THE BOX

Tamworth Country Music Festival as you’ve never seen it before

43 DEALER LIST

Where to find D-MAX dealers across Australia

44 HOOK, LINE ’N’ SINKER

Shimano’s Brett Wilson goes fishing for bream on Victoria’s north coast

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Taken on the outskirts of Otway National Park. Picture by Francesco Solfrini

WELCOME

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Eat my dust “It's the most beautiful road in the country, I think.”

–Sebastian Froehlich

H

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Great ocean roads are what driving was made for. We visit one of the best in Australia ... nay, the world

ello and welcome to another bumper edition of max*d.

I am pleased to announce that since my last column, Isuzu UTE Australia (IUA) has surpassed 15,000 unit sales in Australia – which is a great result considering we are a relatively ‘young’ company in the Australian automotive industry.

I am confident we will continue to grow and provide many more people like you with a lifetime of great driving experiences.

Long inaccurately thought to be a re-badged spin-off of our competitor’s model, Isuzu has developed the D-MAX to where it is today over many generations and the vehicle you enjoy is a product of nearly 100 years of Isuzu diesel engine development.

So you can see, Isuzu has a long and rich history of producing robust, economical and reliable cars, and I am proud to be at the helm of Isuzu UTE as we venture into one of the company’s most exciting chapters.

Once again we have assembled some fantastic reading for you in this edition of max*d – and on behalf of the Isuzu UTE Australia family, I hope you enjoy.

Yasu Takeuchi Managing Director Isuzu UTE Australia

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news

Mark the date NSW

All the latest and greatest from IUA ...

May 21–29, Rosehill Racecourse NSW Camping and Caravan Super-Show This vast outdoor living extravanganza returns to the Rosehill Racecourse.

June 14–16, Casino PRIMEX Field Days One of the nation’s largest agricultural shows.

WA

June 22–24, Perth Perth NTX The West’s best expo for DIYers.

QLD

June 5–7, Toowoomba FarmFest Field Days Featuring more than 2,500 exhibitors.

July 20–22, Caboolture QLD Farm Fantastic Australia’s largest outdoor expo.

SA

May 18–20, Adelaide Adelaide National Tradies Expo (NTX) Australia’s leading expo just for tradies, featuring the latest in machinery and tools.

TAS

May 3–5, Launceston AGFEST Field Days Everything from helicopter rides to sheepdog trials and fine food and wine.

IUA helps boost motocross team

IUA supports the RSPCA IUA partnered with the RSPCA as an official sponsor of the Opening Ceremony of the new Animal Care Campus in Wacol, Brisbane.

Held on February 26, the event included an official opening by the Governor of Queensland Ms Penelope Wensley, a live performance by

PUBLISHER Isuzu UTE Australia Pty Ltd ISUZU UTE AUSTRALIA MANAGING EDITORS Cornelius Ionescu, Victor Petelo Dave Harding

singer Diesel, kids’ rides and food stalls. RSPCA spokesman Michael Beatty said that the new facility would revolutionise animal welfare services in the state, representing a 70 per cent increase in the capacity of the agency’s surgical services for wounded and sick animals.

Isuzu UTE Australia has renewed its partnership with the ShowTime FMX Freestyle Moto X Team. Formed in 1999, the ShowTime FMX Team is the most experienced Freestyle Moto X team in Australia.

The new deal with Isuzu UTE Australia sees the team kitted out with a variety of D-MAX models to help them cart their bikes, riders and jump ramps across the country.

Make sure you watch out for the ShowTime FMX team, who will be coming to a town near you in 2012!

Inset image courtesy of Zoo Studio

EDITOR Ian Neubauer ian.neubauer@edgecustom.com.au ACTING CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Merran White MANAGING EDITOR Michael Butler PRODUCTION EDITOR Paul Rodger

ART DIRECTOR Karen Jacobi

ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Scott Crisp

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Georgina Armour

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Shane O’Brien

ADVERTISING SALES Dennis Lee dennis.lee@edgecustom.com.au

CLIENT SERVICES DIRECTOR Sarah Willmott

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Fergus Stoddart

CEO Eddie Thomas

PRODUCTION ASSISTANT/ JUNIOR DESIGNER Rhys Prosser

51 Whistler St, Manly NSW 2095 T +61 (0) 2 8962 2600

ACCOUNT MANAGER Amy Story

Disclaimer: The information included in this magazine is intended for interest only. The opinions and views expressed in this magazine are provided in the writers’ personal capacities and are their sole responsibility. Their publication does not imply that they represent the views or opinions of Isuzu UTE Australia or Edge and must neither be regarded as constituting advice on any matter nor be interpreted as such. The reproduction of advertisements in this publication does not in any way imply endorsement by Isuzu UTE Australia or Edge Custom Media of products or services referred to therein. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. A selection of the images featured in this publication have been sourced from Getty Images and Thinkstock Images. Business Essentials trading as Edge ABN 22 062 493 869.

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max*d is published on behalf of Isuzu UTE Australia Pty Ltd by

max*d magazine is proudly printed in Australia using renewable resources. Pacesetter Coated is an FSC Mixed Sources Certified paper, which ensures that all virgin pulp is derived from well-managed forests and controlled sources. It contains elemental chlorine-free bleached pulp and is manufactured by an ISO 14001 certified mill.

SGS-COC-003898

NEWS

D-MAX sales in Australia eclipsed 15,000 in December, 2011. The vehicle was first introduced here in 2008.

Remember Movember IUA’s annual Movember competition winner announced Shane Conlon of New South Wales – the winner of IUA’s annual Movember competition – has won a brand-new Isuzu D-MAX 4x2 LS Crew Cab Ute. “This couldn’t have come at a better time,” Shane said. “Two days earlier, I had employed a bloke to run our new office and was about to go out and buy a new ute, so this is a great way to kick off the New Year.” Launched in 1999, Movember sees thousands of participants around

the world grow moustaches to collect donations for the Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia and beyondblue: the national depression initiative. The 2011 campaign raised $25.4 million.

Image courtesy mitchcameronphotography.com.au

}

Sydney Roosters score Isuzu UTE sponsorship Providing grunt of a different kind, Isuzu UTE Australia has just signed on as a major sponsor of NRL team the Sydney Roosters.

In a multi-year deal, Isuzu UTE will adorn the famous Roosters’ jersey sleeves as they chase a berth in this year’s final.

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SAY NO TO TRAFFICKING IUA joined the fight against human trafficking by supporting the ‘It’s Not OK’ Swim-a-thon for the SHE Rescue Home in Cambodia, held on February 25 at Brisbane Grammar School.

Cambodia’s former Minister for Women’s Affairs, Mu Sochua, estimates that there are 30,000 children being exploited by the sex trade in the South-East Asian nation.

Attendees included Olympic swimmers as well as IUA employees Jason Hodder, Marcus Dowling, Dave Harding and Victor Petelo, who competed in the freestyle relay challenge.

NEW SA DEALERSHIP IUA is proud to announce the opening of a new dealership in Burton, South Australia. North East Isuzu UTE commenced trading in mid-February, bringing the total number of IUA dealerships, including Approved Satellite Outlets, to 98.

CORRECTION Last issue’s ‘Unsung

Heroes’ story contained two editing errors. Oshima island is located in Japan’s north-east, not south-west.

And Susumu Sugawara’s instructions to his children when the earthquake struck were to leave their house, not take shelter inside. Edge apologises for any confusion.

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WISHLIST

Pinch-proof It doesn’t matter how good a crook is at hotwiring cars, they’ll still have to get past the M80G. This top-of-the-range baby includes three engine immobilisers, waterproof remotes and a twostage impact sensor. RRP approx. $225, plus installation: www.mongoose.com.au

Security Complex FOUR FUTURISTIC OBJECTS THAT’LL HELP YOU STAY ALIVE WHEN THE CHIPS ARE DOWN

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Shark-proof Developed by the Natal Shark Board, Shark Shield shark-deterrent systems emit wave-form elliptical fields that are detected by sharks through sensory receptors on their snouts. The unique and unfamiliar pulsing sensation irritates them, dramatically reducing the probability of being attacked. The Shark Shield SURF7, pictured, is a versatile and lightweight version specifically designed for surfing and windsurfing. RRP $600: www.sharkshield.com

Tear-proof They may look like ordinary jeans, yet they’re anything but. Each pair of Draggin Jeans is lined with a thin, yellow mesh made of Kevlar (the stuff used to protect rockets as they jet into space) and Dyneema (the world’s strongest artificial fibre). For extra protection, they can also be retrofitted with plastic armour. RRP $269: www.dragginjeans.net

Nasty-proof It’s not hard to find water when you’re camping, trekking or back-packing overseas. But how often is that water drinkable?

Pack the LifeStraw water filter in your backpack and this handy device could one day save your life. Twenty-five centimetres long and three centimetres in diameter, it’s capable of removing 99.99 per cent of the bacteria responsible for causing waterborne diseases such as cholera and dysentery. It can also filter up to 700 litres during its lifespan, roughly the amount of water the typical adult consumes in a year. RRP: $30.00: www.lifestraw.com.au

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Me ’n’

TE? LOVE YOUR U YOU’RE NOT ESE ALONE, AS TH RS FIVE D-MAXE AREN'T SHY TO ADMIT

2 Vincent Fryer

Lives: East Lismore, NSW Drives: 2009 4x4 LS-U I BOUGHT my D-MAX for its fabulously low fuel consumption. We own a commercial storage complex here in Lismore so we use the ute as a work vehicle to remove all the stuff that people leave behind and for 4WDing, which we’re pretty serious about. This pic was taken outside my place before a trip to Rover Park – an offroad adventure park between Tenterfield and Casino. The D-MAX’s fuel efficiency offroad was great, much better than our old LandCruiser.

Glen Baker

Lives: Kempsey, NSW Drives: 2010 4x4 LS-U

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X D-MA MY D SAVEMILY FA

LAST YEAR my wife and daughter were driving our 2010 LS-U on the highway when they got caught in an 11-car pile-up. A petrol tanker had spewed diesel all over the road and they ended up upside down in the gutter. Luckily, they walked out unscathed and the cops told them they thought it was because they were in a “car like this”. I reckon the D-MAX saved their lives, so as soon as the insurance money came through I went out and bought another one. I did a lot of research before buying my first D-MAX and when it came to pulling power and fuel economy, the information available told me it triumphs every time. The power that comes out of that little 3.0-litre donk is unreal.

Ariel Albano

Lives: Mooroobool, QLD Drives: 2010 4x4 LS-M HAVING BEEN an admirer of Isuzu pickup trucks in the Philippines where I grew up and where they’ve been popular for a long time, I didn’t hesitate to buy one when I came to Australia. This pic was taken at the Windy Hill Wind Farm on the Atherton Tablelands near Ravenshoe – the highest town in Queensland at 920 metres above sea level -- when we went up there to test it out.

The verdict: excellent suspension and it was great off-road, even in 2WD.

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Tony Jane

Lives: Perth, WA Drives: 2008 4x4 LS-M

AUTO X BO GEAR NER N A WI

I’M A tradesman so I bought my D-MAX to use as a work vehicle. But I also love my camping, fishing and 4WDing, so I’ve set it up with a roof rack for fishing rods and a pullout awning.

This pic was taken during a trip to Israelite Bay, east of Esperance at the start of the Great Australian Bight, where we did more than 400 kilometres of 4WDing over some of the biggest sand dunes in Australia.

Paul Scott

Lives: Mt Isa, QLD Drives: 2009 4x2 SX

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I THOUGHT ‘Me ’n’ my Max’ need ed some 2WD input! We alr eady have a 4x4 so I didn’t see the ne ed to buy anothe r off-road vehicle. What I ne eded was a fuelefficient ute to carry ever ything from the kid s to sporting toys and hardware around town, so I bought this ex-demo model in Melbourne. The whole family flew over and drove it back to Geraldton. We’r e all very impresse d with its efficienc y and power!

Me ’n’ my Max is a segment reserved for you – the reader. If you’d like to see your ute appear in the mag, send a highresolution image along with your name, town, state, and the make and model of your D-MAX, plus a 100-word blurb, to maxd@iua.net.au. Or you can mail the details to max*d magazine, PO Box 1128, Eagle Farm, QLD 4009.

WIN

A CALTEX FUELCARD! If your letter is published here you'll receive a $50 fuelcard!

Congratulations to this issue's five winners ...

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TECH HEAD

the

Avoid of

pitfalls

towing

WORDS Marcus Dowling

TOWING A CARAVAN, CAMPER VAN OR BOAT IS EASY WITH THESE HANDY TIPS FROM OUR TECH GURU

HITCHING UP a trailer and

hitting the road can be daunting for anyone not accustomed to towing. But keeping a few principles in mind can do wonders for your confidence. Follow this advice and you’ll be lugging with the best of ’em in no time.

STARTING OUT

One of the first things to consider is the towing capacity of your vehicle. Establish the weight of your trailer, fully loaded, and work back from there to determine if your vehicle has the muscle for the job.

Remember to include heavy items such as fuel, fresh water, greywater, as well as light items such as your lunch box. Every object in your trailer, boat or caravan has to be accounted for to ensure you don’t exceed

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your vehicle’s maximum towing capacity.

If you don’t have a set of scales and a calculator handy, you can always use a public weighbridge.

REVERSING

Reversing a trailer, camper or boat isn’t nearly as difficult as it seems. All that’s required is a healthy dose of patience.

Bear in mind that oversteering can cause a trailer to turn sharply, so go for gradual movements. If you get in a bind, don’t fret. Just pull forward, straighten everything out and try again. Don’t feel embarrassed if it all goes pear-shaped: it happens to everyone.

To reverse around a corner or into a caravan-parking bay, follow these four simple steps: 1. Point the caravan in the direction

you wish it to go by steering its wheels in the opposite direction.

2. Have your towing vehicle follow the same line as the caravan, maintaining a manageable angle between vehicle and caravan by again manoeuvring the steering wheel in the opposite direction to that of the caravan.

3. Bring the towing vehicle into a straight line with the caravan.

4. Straighten your vehicle’s wheels.

BRAKING

The brakes on your trailer have been designed to cope under load in all types of conditions without adversely affecting the towing vehicle’s brakes. But even if you have the best and biggest brakes available fitted to your D-MAX and trailer, you’ll still need to allow for longer stopping distances when towing. With all that extra weight and momentum, it’ll take longer for both vehicles to stop.

When you do have a load hitched to your D-MAX, a good rule of thumb with respect to the vehicle in front of you is to allow one-and-a-half to two car lengths for every 20km/h of speed.

SPREADING THE LOAD

A tow vehicle running with its nose high in the air and its backside dragging along the road creates several problems. Apart from improper balance, resulting in wear and tear, having weight off the front wheels can lead to poor steering and less

effective braking. ‘Caravan sway’ can also result from a loss of traction between the tyres and the road surface. In short, it’s a bad idea.

In the case of the vehicle and trailer connection not being level or straight, a Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH) can be used. WDHs are also sometimes called level-rides or load-levellers.

The best way to determine if you need a WDH is to measure the distance between the (level) ground and the peak of the front-wheel arch before imposing any weight on the towbar. Once the van is added to the towbar, measure the same spot again. If the difference between the two measurements is greater than 10 millimetres when both vehicles are stationary, a WDH is recommended.

To work out the weight of your load on the towbar, refer to the compliance plate fixed to the trailer or van by the manufacturer – if it’s loaded, weigh the nose of the trailer.

FUEL ECONOMY

Several simple steps can be taken to ensure you maximise your fuel economy.

First and foremost, get rid of any excess weight you may be carrying in your D-MAX. Keep lugging around that toolbox that gets used once in a blue moon and you’ll be consuming fuel needlessly.

Also bear in mind the aerodynamics of the cargo you’re towing. Wind and air

1 resistance can hamstring fuel economy, even if you have a light load, so consider re-arranging your cargo to streamline airflow. If you’re towing a boat or an open platform trailer, consider putting a cover on it to reduce drag. And remember, the way you drive affects fuel economy, so avoid sudden braking and lead-footed acceleration.

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CORNERING

One of the most important points to keep in mind while towing a trailer and about to take a turn is to approach corners significantly wider than you would under normal circumstances. It’s a good idea to give yourself plenty of extra room so that the outside edge of the trailer clears curbside hazards such as mailboxes, street signs, other vehicles and the like.

Being observant, taking your time and having the correct wide-vision mirrors fitted all make turning easier.

HIGH WINDS AND SWAY

In the event of an out-of-control sway, or if your trailer is buffeted by the air pocket created by a passing vehicle, remember not to apply your towing vehicle’s brakes.

Instead, apply the brakes of the trailer.

Doing so creates a ‘straightening-up’ effect that should stop any swaying instantly.

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Above: Point the boat in the intended direction and maintain a manageable angle between vehicle and trailer.

Then bring the vehicle and the trailer into a straight line by straightening your vehicle’s wheels as you reverse.

Inset images courtesy Chris Macer

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SPECIAL REPORT

Memory Lane auer WORDS Ian Neub ve Maurice Da of sy te PHOTOS Cour

ever e r e w s t t e l l Isuzu Be 0 0 ,0 6 1 ly egacy l n r i O e h t t u B . ralia sold in Aust o a group of diehard ks t n a h t n o s e liv enthusiasts

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IN MARCH

of 1968, the Bellett Car Club of NSW held its first general meeting in the Sydney suburb of Harris Park. The brainchild of the late Jim and Roslyn Gore, the club catered to owners of all types of Isuzu vehicle, including Colts, Geminis, Florians, Wasps and LUVs. Yet the club’s flagship model – and the centre of attention at its drives and races – was the Bellett.

A subcompact sedan, wagon, ute and coupé produced by Isuzu Motors between 1963 and 1973, the Bellett’s sleek Italian lines and aggressive fastback fascia won hearts and minds wherever it did go.

“The Bellett was ahead of its time,” says club president Dave Maurice. “It was very reliable, very well built. It was also the first car to come out of Japan with fully independent suspension.”

Interestingly, the Bellett GT (Gran Turismo), a two-door coupé with lowered suspension and a 1.6-litre or 1.8-litre SOHC engine, was also the first Japanese car billed as a GT, a term referring to cars designed to make long-distance, high-speed journeys. It was also a regular at the Bathurst 1000, with three Belletts competing at the 1966 event.

CHANGING PLACES

As the Belletts have aged and motorsport has changed, the club has, too. Rebranded Isuzu Car Club of Australia (ICCA), it now focuses its energies on motorcar restoration and preservation. “Originally, we were doing sport dashes and such, but today we’re more of a social club,” says Dave. “We do drive days, attend all the car shows we can and have a general meeting for all our members – about 60 in total – each year.”

The club’s most important day of the year is also the nation’s: Australia Day. Every year on January 26, it sends a convoy of Belletts through Sydney’s CBD as part of the NRMA’s Australia Day Motorfest event. Now in its 28th year, Motorfest is one of the largest outdoor displays of vehicles in Australia.

“I started the club’s participation in Motorfest 17 years ago,” Dave says. “Last year we had 13 cars involved but this year, because of the bad weather, a lot of people

pulled the pin so we only got eight. We had a little Wasp, three beautiful GTs and the rest were Bellett sedans.”

Despite the number and variety of classic, high-performance vintage and antique cars in Motorfest this year, the humble Belletts attracted a steady stream of admirers at the vehicle showcase across from Hyde Park.

“We were approached by a lot of people who remembered them from the ’60s and were amazed the Belletts were still in existence,” Dave says. “We heard plenty of comments like, ‘Wow, I had one of them and what a great little motor car it was’ and then younger people saying, ‘My dad or granddad had one of these and we had great fun in the back seat’. They certainly brought back a lot of good memories.”

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“The Bellett was ahead of its time. buil It was It was very reliable, very well built. also the first car to come out of Japan with fully independent suspension.”

RISING VALUE

A decade ago, you could pick up a Bellett for a scrap value of about $200. But since the launch of the D-MAX in Australia in 2008, the Bellett has seen a resurgence and prices are on the rise. “The early-model teardrop tailgate Belletts are getting more expensive,” Dave says. “People are now paying anywhere from $2,000 to $4,000 for them. GTs are even more sought-after. They were selling for about $2,000 to $3,000 but I know of one in mint condition that recently changed hands for a little more than $18,000.”

Remaining Belletts are not typically used as everyday cars. Dave, who owns a darkgrey GT, keeps his garaged most of the year.

“To keep it in immaculate condition requires tender loving care,” he says. “You’ve got to be vigilant about rust [and] bubbling and if you do see some, have it treated and resprayed before it becomes a major problem.

“I have a conditional registration and only pull my car out for special occasions and club meets. I think it could keep on going if I used it as a normal car. But like all mechanical things, it is going to wear and weather.”

BECOME A MEMBER The Isuzu Car Club of Australia is now inviting all D-MAX owners and drivers to join.

Membership is just $20 a year.

To apply, visit www.izucca. com.au or call 0412 600 469.

The club’s next meet takes place on May 20, when its members will take part in a National Heritage Motoring Day at various locations in and around Sydney. Go to www.ahmf.org.au or call Tom on 0418 169 409.

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tune into our all new Radio Show, 31 stations regionally around Australia

every Sunday morning 6-7am!

OUT NOW! The Great Australian Doorstep

is a ‘real life’ insight into Australia & New Zealand and the ways everyone can explore these great countries as cost effectively as possible!

GREAT AUSTRALIAN DOORSTEP

Are you kidding me?

THE GREAT AUSTRALIAN DOORSTEP’S SHEREE EVERITT WAXES LYRICAL ABOUT SURVIVING A ROAD TRIP WITH KIDS

THINK YOUR kids

give you a hard time when you’re driving to your favourite camping spot? Put yourself in my shoes.

For the past four years while filming The Great Australian Doorstep, I’ve driven around the country in an Isuzu D-MAX with four of them: my stepdaughters Kaitlin, 17, Summer, 12, and Anais, who’s 12, plus my fiveyear-old son Boston.

Yes, it can be incredibly frustrating at times. But if you’re organised, the journey can be painless or even fun. Here are a few tips:

1) DRIVE TIME Try to do most of your driving in the afternoon, especially if you have a baby or little ones who are more likely to be asleep at this time of the day. If you have to

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kids love it), road games are a way to kill two birds with one stone – or in my case, four. The key to keeping them interested in road games is letting each kid have a turn choosing which game to play. It empowers them and makes them less likely to rebel.

4) CLOTHING take off in the morning, be aware that it’s when most kids are full of beans. Try to get them to do some physical work or take the dog for a walk before you put them in the car.

2) TOYS Each of our kids has to bring a minimum of three toys to entertain themselves and it’s their responsibility to put them in the car. Electronic gadgets like iPads, iPods and mini DVD or video-game players are great.

But make sure they [each] bring a book or regular toy, too. Sooner or later, the batteries will run out and they’ll have nothing to do.

3) ROAD GAMES Whether it’s I Spy, the numberplate game or counting roadkill (I know it’s disgusting but the

Below: Spida and Sheree Everitt with three of their children.

I always tell my kids to wear something light and comfortable, which for the girls often means staying in their pyjamas all day long. Another important thing is to make sure what they’re wearing makes it easy to go to the toilet in the bush, which means no jumpsuits or singlepiece outfits.

5) FOOD Hungry kids are grumpy kids so make sure they’ve got plenty of water, sandwiches and fruit to nosh on. The last thing you want to give them is soft drinks or sugar-laden snacks that will make them irritable. We give our kids sweets as a reward for being good after a long drive when we’re at a caravan park and there’s plenty of room to run the sugar hit off.

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EAT MY DUST

C 16

COOLER PHOTOS Francesc o Solfrin i, Tourism

WORDS Victoria a Ian Neubauer nd Getty Images

WEST CO AST

The Gre at holiday Ocean Road at season?

Piece of the peak of the cake in a D-MAX Melbourne

Ocean Queenscliff Barwon Heads Grove Portsea Torquay Point Lonsdale Port Fairy Lorne Aire River 12 Apostles

Apollo Bay

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EAT MY DUST

“It doesn’t matter if the sun’s out or if it’s overcast and raining,” Barry says.

“Every day here is stunning.”

Clockwise from bottom right: Seagulls know good utes when they find them; preparing to catch a bird’s-eye view of the 12 Apostles; bright colours on Brighton beach; magnificent Aire River; Barry’s famous fruit pavlova; chilling at the Sorrento Sailing Couta Boat Club; pumping premium diesel at Caltex

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MELBOURNE TO SORRENTO

W

hen William Calder of the Country Roads Board petitioned the Government to build a road connecting the isolated towns on Victoria’s west coast in the closing stages of the First World War, he could never have envisioned the landmark it would become. Added to the Australian National Heritage List last year, the Great Ocean Road (GOR) – an undulating 243-kilometre stretch of asphalt between Torquay and Peterborough on Victoria’s West Coast – is today considered one of the world’s greatest drives, attracting 600,000 visitors a year, according to Shipwreck Coast Tourism.

Its busiest period is the Christmas break, when holidaymakers from Melbourne and beyond flock to coastal resorts such as Anglesea, Lorne and Apollo Bay, and to dozens of caravan parks and camping spots in between.

Not wanting to feel left out, we took a D-MAX down the GOR between Boxing Day and New Year’s – the peak of the peak period. But rather than do it the normal way – east out of Melbourne and down the Princess Highway to Geelong – we went south, following the Mornington Peninsula. But how did we get across Port Phillip Bay? Good question…

The Christmas holidays are all about visiting family and friends and the Mornington Peninsula is all about great locally sourced food and wine. To get the best out of the two in the short time we had there, we made the Sorrento Sailing Couta Boat Club – where a mate of mine, Barry Chalmers, runs the galley – our first port of call.

“Sorrento is the holiday place for the rich and famous.

The Roach family, Lindsay Fox, Eddie McGuire: they’ve all got houses here,” Barry says, while walking Italian photographer Francesco Solfrini and I onto a whitewashed balcony that overlooks the marina. “The cheapest house on the beachfront from here to the point on Portsea will set you back $3 million. The most expensive sold last year for $25 million.”

Over a seafood lunch and bottle of chilled pinot noir, Barry tells us about the ‘couta’ boats the club is named after. Designed in the early 1800s with elongated bowsprits to help them go faster, they were originally used to catch barracuda outside the heads. The boat that got its catch to market fastest got the best price for its fish.

Today, coutas are toys of the privileged, raced for fun or money. Hand-built by craftsmen, they can cost up to $125,000 each.

After lunch, we crash out on a beached catamaran in front of the club. The sand is so white and the water so clear and blue it’s hard to fathom this is Port Phillip Bay; it looks like the Whitsundays. “It doesn’t matter if the sun’s out or if it’s overcast and raining,” Barry says.

“Every day here is stunning.”

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EAT MY DUST

FACT FILE WHO BUILT IT? The Great Ocean Road is the world’s largest war memorial, built by and dedicated to the Victorians who fought in the First World War. Construction began in 1919, when 3,000 returned servicemen began digging their way through the dense west-coast wilderness aided only by basic tools – picks, shovels and wheelbarrows. Work progressed at a snail’s pace, about three kilometres a month, with workers sleeping in communal tent cities similar to those they’d called home during the war.

The work was backbreaking and sometimes perilous, yet it was carried out with great spirit – especially in June 1924, when a shipwreck near Cape Patton deposited 500 barrels of beer and 120 cases of rum on the coast.

Tools were downed for two whole weeks, or so the story goes.

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With the traffic now fading and the sun twinkling at us through gaps in the tall trees, every straight and bend is more mesmerising than the last. It’s motor touring at its greatest and I never want it to end.

Top: There was no way we were going to spend a week in a D-MAX without going off-road Far left: Dreamy open stretches like these were few and far in between on the Great Ocean Road over the Christmas break

SORRENTO TO ANGLESEA

We pack our tent at the crack of dawn and drive down to Portsea to catch the vehicle ferry across to Queenscliff. It’s a magical summer’s day: the dazzling blue water is pockmarked with yachts as the Spirit of Tasmania ferry putters toward the mouth of the bay – three kilometres from end to end but locked in by reefs on either side that restrict the navigable channel to 300 metres. Countless ships were grounded or wrecked here and at other reeffronted spots on Victoria’s west coast, which is why they call it The Shipwreck Coast.

From Queenscliff, we take a series of back roads that cut through rich, green farmland and the coastal villages of Ocean Grove, Barwon Heads and Breamlea. The Great Ocean Road begins at the next residential centre – Torquay – where colossal limestone cliffs overlooking Bells Beach provide the first of hundreds of viewpoints along the coast. The scenery is seemingly endless – as is the traffic, with thousands of vehicles clogging up the two-lane road.

At one stop near Anglesea we meet biker Sebastian Froehlich from Germany, who I assume is riding the GOR solo. But when a station wagon packed with his family pulls up behind him, we understand him to be a special kind of traveller.

“This is my sixth time on the GOR since I moved to Melbourne,” he explains. “Usually I come in the middle of the week when there is no traffic. But my sister is visiting from Germany so I wanted to show it to her. It’s the most beautiful road in the country, I think.”

refreshing swim in the surf followed by a powernap on the beach and lunch at a busy café, by which time the traffic has subsided. We then make a beeline for Apollo Bay, where we stop to visit Jacinta Mithen, a close friend from Sydney who’s spent every summer for the past 28 years at her parents’ holiday home here.

Over a bevvie or two, Jacinta recommends a camping spot for the night. “It’s half an hour’s drive away at Aire River,” she says. We go fishing there all the time. You’ll love it. Here, I’ll draw you a map.”

To reach Aire River, we must first traverse the only inland section of the GOR: a switchback-laced thoroughfare that cuts through the temperate rainforest of Otway National Park. With the traffic now fading and the sun twinkling at us through gaps in the tall trees, every straight and bend is more mesmerising than the last. It’s road touring at its greatest and I never want it to end.

Following Jacinta’s directions, we veer onto a dirt track that ends at what has to be the most perfect camping spot in the world. Set near the mouth of the Aire River – a pristine estuary that carves its way down steep mountains and across the coastal wetlands – it looks like something out of a children’s book: unspoilt, lined with reeds and brimming with pelicans, ducks, osprey and other birdlife.

As things work out, we’re not the only ones who love it, with some 200 tents set up along the river.

The only spot we find to pitch ours is on a nature strip adjacent to a road. Yet it matters not; when the light fades our camp fire becomes the centre of the world.

ANGLESEA TO AIRE RIVER

Thirty clicks past Torquay on the approach to Lorne, the GOR turns into the Great Ocean Carpark. Traffic is backed up as far as the eye can see and after an hour or so, we can take no more. We pull into Lorne for a

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EAT MY DUST

“This place used to be called the Sow and Piglets. But the name wasn’t very alluring so they renamed it the 12 Apostles.”

FACT FILE GETTING THERE Starting from Melbourne’s CBD, follow Queens Road onto the Eastern Freeway and veer onto the Frankston Freeway. Then drive all the way to Sorrento. The vehicle ferry at nearby Portsea takes half an hour to reach Queenscliff on the western point of Port Phillip Bay and charges $69 per vehicle. From Queenscliff, follow the signs to Torquay for the start of the GOR.

WHERE TO STAY The Sorrento Foreshore Camping Ground (03 5950 1011; www.mornpen.vic. gov.au) offers sites from November to April for $25–45. The Aire River Camping Ground (131 963, www.parkweb.vic. gov.au) is free but fills up early during school holiday periods. The Caledonian Inn (03 5568 1144; www. caledonianinn.com.au) at Port Fairy charges $100 a night for a double or twin room.

AIRE RIVER TO THE 12 APOSTLES

After two nights at Aire River, we continue west. The road ebbs and flows through immense, hyper-green valleys that are home to dairy farms, reconnecting with the coast at yet another magnificent lookout spot. Yet it pales in comparison to what’s coming up next: the 12 Apostles.

The Apostles can’t be seen from the road, but a coastal walkway built by Port Campbell National Park offers panoramic views of these colossal limestone rock formations. Like most points of interest on the GOR at this time of the year, it’s full to brim with tourists – a far cry from the serenity the site engenders.

Luckily, we find a less crowded way to see the Apostles: from a chopper. At about $100 per person for a 10-minute ride, the experience isn’t cheap, but as a once-in-a-lifetime experience I’m quick to rate it.

Moments after taking off, we’re hovering over the Shipwreck Coast as our pilot points out the landmarks: Horseshoe Cove, where little penguins come nest at dusk and dawn; the Three Sisters; and the mighty Sentinel – which, at 100 metres high, is the largest of the Apostles.

“Early last century, when tourists starting coming here, this place used to be called the Sow and Piglets,” our pilot says. “But the name wasn’t very alluring so they renamed them the 12 Apostles. There were only really nine of them on this stretch of the coast and when the Needle collapsed in 2005, it brought the number down to eight. This is the fastest-eroding coastline in Australia.”

It’s unlikely another Apostle will collapse soon, though the authorities aren’t taking any chances and keep visitors at a safe distance. When the first of the double arches of a nearby rock formation called London Bridge collapsed without warning in 1990, two tourists were stranded on the outer arch and had to be rescued by chopper. Way to save $100!

THE 12 APOSTLES TO PORT FAIRY

After checking out the remains of London Arch, as the rock formation is now called, we come to the end of the GOR and the masses that travel along it. We’ve used only half a tank of fuel since leaving Melbourne but fill up for good measure at a Caltex near Allansford. We then continue west for an hour to Port Fairy, a former whaling station that was the second-busiest port in Victoria after Melbourne in the early 19th century.

Relics of Port Fairy’s glory days are everywhere, with more than 50 National Trust buildings, including our lodgings, the Caledonian Inn – the oldest continually licensed premises in Victoria. It’s not as posh as the stately holiday rentals that line the wharf but after three nights of camping, it assumes the aura of a maharajah’s palace.

The moment I put my head down I’m in another world, dreaming of the never-ending curves and switchbacks of the Great Ocean Road.

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THE FINISHING LINE

D-MAX owner Robbie Marshall pulling off a Superman backflip

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The Natural WORDS Ian Neubauer PHOTOS Courtesy of Robbie Marshall; Australian Grand Prix Corporation

Freestyle motocross champ and D-MAX owner Robbie Marshall on surviving the high-ying trials of his unique profession

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THE FINISHING LINE

WHEN IT comes to hazardous jobs,

RISING STARS...

Name: Robbie Marshall Age: 28 Lives: Fernvale, QLD Number of broken bones: 6 Music: Anything but country Motto: Always have fun – if you’re not having fun, you shouldn’t be doing it

few compare to freestyle motocross (FMX). Only one person has died competing in the sport that sees riders launch themselves up to 12 metres into the air and pull off repertoires of ever more complicated tricks. But bone-breaking crashes are an everyday affair.

In 2009, Australian Cameron Sinclair suffered a brain haemorrhage while trying to land a double backflip at a competition in Madrid. Early on in his career, Travis Pastrana, frontman of the highly successful Nitro Circus TV and stage show, managed to separate his pelvis from his spine. “I don’t remember most of the injuries. There have been too many,” Pastrana famously said.

Yet Queenslander Robbie Marshall, a 28-yearold pro FMXer who’s lived and breathed the sport since 1998, has never been injured – not while freestyling, that is. “I’ve had seven broken bones: The most recent was a broken collarbone and the most severe was breaking both ankles at the same time,” he says.

“All of those accidents happened while racing on tracks,” Marshall says, of the years he spent competing in motocross and supercross tournaments. “People think freestyle is dangerous because there are no safety nets involved. It’s nothing compared to racing on tracks where riders bump your bars in mid-air. But with freestyling, you’re in total control. The result is up to you.”

THE HOLY GRAIL

The result in Robbie’s case is consistently perfect backflips. The backflip is the ‘holy grail’ of FMX: a trick considered so dangerous it was limited to video games until 1995, when it was executed for the first time. Robbie’s also fairly good at

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doing whips – a trick in which the bike’s rear end swings forward – and other death-defying tricks.

“These tricks are really hard because you need to have courage to try them for the first time and practice every day,” Robbie says. “But I am kind of naturally talented – things just come easily to me. I learned backflips using a foam pit, so if you land upside down you get away with it. But the variations I learned after that, like the Superman backflip, I learned straight on dirt. It comes so easy that I kind of get bored of it, which is why I always end up back on the motocross track hitting the jumps.”

GOBA SPEAKS

Dirt-bike writer Grant O’Brien – ‘Goba’ to his readers and mates – is one of the most knowledgeable guys in the business. He doesn’t pull punches when talking shop, as was reflected in his 2005 piece on Robbie at www.gobadirt.com.

“There’s no doubt that Robbie Marshall oozes natural talent. And a rider that can compete with the best of them on the racetrack and then roll up to an FMX event and dominate … places themselves among a rare breed of individuals. “[But] natural talent can sometimes be a hindrance for those who have it – they can easily fall into the trap of taking this for granted. I believe Robbie Marshall fits into this category.”

We can understand this to mean Robbie’s on borrowed time and sooner or later, he’s going to get hurt. But Robbie thinks his ability to avoid injury in FMX, and hence his success, is the result of prudent risk analysis. “I won’t try a double backflip,” he says. “Cameron Sinclair does them but he’s had three big crashes and, as

THE FINISHING LINE

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“Riding has been in my blood since I was four years old and I never thought twice about doing anything else. When I ride, I’m happy. So long as that feeling never goes away, I’ll keep on riding.”

we all know, the last one came close to killing him. It’s just not a consistent trick you can do all the time.

“There are a few guys doing frontflips now, too, but I will probably never try it. I’ve been around the industry a long time now and I don’t see it [as] worth it, risking my life.”

NOW IN A D-MAX

While riding for Showtime Yamaha back in 2010, Robbie got behind the wheel of a D-MAX. “Isuzu were sponsoring the show and since I wanted to get a ute and liked it, I thought I’d get one,” he says. “I’d never owned anything other than a crummy old van and wanted something better to get around in.

“I also use it to take the bikes to meets. I can fit two bikes and all my gear in the tray if I leave the tailgate open. I also bought a canopy for it and over the summer, we took it on a camping trip to Crescent Head in NSW. We put a fly net over the back and a double futon inside. It made a great bed for the missus and I.” So what’s next for Robbie? In March, he heads off to South Africa for a few months to work as a stunt rider in the new Mad Max movie. And after that … who knows?

“Riding has been in my blood since I was four years old and I never thought twice about doing anything else,” he says. “When I ride, I’m happy.

So long as that feeling never goes away, I’ll keep on riding.”

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PASSPORT

LONGBOAT TO IN BURMA’S DEEP SOUTH, AN ANCIENT TRADING POST OFFERS A WORLD OF DISCOVERY TO INTREPID TRAVELLERS

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WORDS Ian Neubauer PHOTOS Ian Neubauer and ThinkStock

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According to travel blogs, Kawthaung is a filthy border town full of beggars, smugglers and thieves.

THE NAME Burma conjures up images

of a country that tortures, enslaves and wages war against its own people; of one of the most isolated, centralised and repressive regimes in the world. So it was with some trepidation that I crossed the mouth of the Pak Chan River, a broad estuary that marks the maritime border between Thailand and Burma.

On the Thai side sits Ranong, a prosperous provincial capital and transport hub for some of Southern Thailand’s top tourism hot spots. On the other sits Kawthaung, the southernmost point of mainland Burma and a key transit point on the Singapore-Calcutta shipping route.

According to travel blogs, Kawthaung – or Victoria Point, as it was known until 1989, when the military renamed the country along with many of its place names – is a filthy border town full of beggars, smugglers and thieves. And then these discouraging words from Lonely Planet: “It’s probably not worth making a special trip to Ranong just to visit Kawthaung.”

THE SAPHAN PLA PORT

Ranong’s Saphan Pla port is a hive of activity early in the morning. Blue and green trawlers line the docks as fishermen haul in huge catches of squid, stingray, jellyfish and shark. Amassed into piles of thousands, catches are auctioned on site in a hubbub of action.

On a nearby jetty, passengers clamber into longtail boats that plough the 5-kilometre route between Thailand and Burma. Among them are small but steady streams of Westerners.

In recent years, Kawthaung has become a popular ‘visa-run’ destination, allowing tourists enjoying extended holidays on islands such as Phuket, Ko Phangan and Ko Samui to skip out

FACT FILE VITAL STATS Population: 60 million Size: 677,000 km2 Gov’t: Military dictatorship Per-capita GDP: $702 a year Currency: Kyat Language: Burmese

GETTING THERE Jetstar (www.jetstar. com) flies from Sydney to Bangkok from $907 return. Phuket Air (www. phuketairlines.com) flies from Bangkok to Ranong every second day between March and October for $102 return. Longtail boats plough the Pak Chan River from dusk till dawn.

Return tickets are $2.50.

Alternatively, an entire longboat can be chartered for half a day for $25.

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PASSPORT

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From the moment one steps ashore, Kawthaung’s raw energy assaults the senses.

of Thailand and apply for new 30-day tourist visas on their return.

My longboat motors away from Saphan Pla and into a small channel where the Thai immigration checkpoint juts out over the water on stilts. The Westerners on board hand over their passports, the Burmese their travel permits and, following cursory checks, we are waved on through.

The mangroves ebb away as we enter the mouth of the Pak Chan, where a giant gilt statue of the Buddha stands on a sand-ringed islet.

The scene is more mesmerising than anything Kipling ever put into words, the deity’s golden skin gleaming against a hard blue sky and a twin statue now visible on the foreshore.

It takes about half an hour to reach the Burmese checkpoint on Snake Island. Strewn with dense tropical vegetation and crowned with a three-tier pagoda, Snake Island makes for an arresting, if not eerie introduction to Burma. A US five-dollar note buys any holder of a valid passport a three-day visa limited to Kawthaung.

After circling Snake Island, we come within batting distance of the Kawthaung waterfront: a eclectic mishmash of colonial and eastern architecture spread along a headland of such dazzling beauty that it is difficult to believe we are now within the borders one of the poorest countries on Earth.

CROSSING OVER Right to left: You’ll see millions of statues of this guy in Burma; tourists enjoying the odours of the Saphan Pla fish market; Buddhist monks collecting alms; one of countless ginclear inlets surrounding Kawthaung Inset: Life on Kawthaung’s main drag

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From the moment one steps ashore, Kawthaung’s raw energy assaults the senses. Surrounded on all sides by turquoise water and thickly forested hills, this trading port is awash with sights, sounds and smells: orange and green pagodas sparkling on nearby summits; a bustling market overflowing with smuggled booze, cigarettes and cheap

electronics; leather-skinned fishermen smoking bidis in tea houses; the Muslim call to prayer wafting from a nearby mosque.

The people in Kawthaung are brown-skinned, more Indian-looking than Chinese. The men wear sandals, collared shirts and longyis– long plaid sarongs they wrap around their waists.

The women are portly and round-shouldered, carry bundles on their heads and paint themselves with herbal talcum powder to keep their skin cool. It feels as if I’ve crossed an invisible line between South-East and Southern Asia, with the Orient on one side and the Subcontinent on the next.

The road to Aungdawmu Pagoda winds along the headland past colonial manors, thatchedpalm villages and the Shwezinyah Quarter.

Built around a maze of Indiana-Jones-style footbridges, this stilt-house collective is rife with life and colour. Children yell ‘Hello!’ and adults offer huge toothy smiles. For a stratocracy (a state ruled by the army) in which an alleged 10 per cent of adult males are MI (Military Intelligence), the people of Kawthaung seem remarkably welcoming and laid-back. In fact, the only visible sign of the much-hated regime are billboards bearing Orwellian slogans such as ‘The fight against drug menace is a national cause’ and ‘It is very important for everyone of the nation wherever he lives to cultivate and possess strong Union Spirits.’

The road twists and turns around rolling hillsides past the striking Pyi Taw Aye Pagoda and Reclining Buddha, coming to an end at the base of a towering staircase. It’s 120 gruelling steps to the top of the Aungdawmu Pagoda, where a golden spire erupts from the centre of a gleaming white terrazzo.

FACT FILE WHEN TO VISIT It’s always hot in the south of Burma and Thailand, but expect daily rainfall between the monsoonal months of April and October.

Kawthaung is the wettest town in Burma, collecting 4,060mm of rain annually.

WHERE TO STAY Tanintharyi Guest House (+95 5 51785), a grand but run-down mansion overlooking Snake Island, charges $10 for a room with fan and communal bathroom. The Andaman Club (+66 2 285 6404, www.andamanclub.com) is a five-star, 200-room casino resort on Thahtay Kyun Island popular among Asian gamblers. It has a private pier in Ranong and its own immigration office. Suites start from $100 per night.

If the pagoda is a sight, then the view is to die for. From here, one can see beyond Bayinnaung Point on the very end of the headland and past the northern face of Thahtay Kyun Island, home to the five-star Andaman Club resort and casino.

Gigantic green mountains appear to melt into the sea across the estuary in Thailand, while yet another golden pagoda can be seen shimmering on faraway Salon Island.

NO-GO ZONE

Later in the afternoon, I speak with one of the many young men who spend their days lounging around the jetty and identify themselves as guides. Jang, who gives his first name only, says he makes $10 per day showing tourists around but work is not plentiful.

“Every day, many foreigners come here, but they never want tours,” he says. “They get off, walk to the other end and get back on a boat to Thailand. Why? I don’t know.”

One answer can be found by looking at the infrastructure. The roads are potholed, accommodation is substandard and there are no tourist bureaus or internet cafés.

Another answer to this puzzle lies in the guides themselves who, along with boat drivers, touts and the odd opium dealer, swarm Westerners the moment they step ashore. Add to that packs of barefoot beggar kids who trail visitors with the persistence of mosquitoes and it’s enough to put anyone off.

Yes, there is poverty here, and all the social ills that go along with it. But peel back the leaves and Kawthaung opens up like an exotic flower, where winding back streets and moss-covered staircases lead into one of the most fascinating destinations on the Malay Peninsula.

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UNSUNG HEROES

Fred’s fightclub WORDS Matt Khoury PHOTOS Susan Fuller, Tourism Queensland and Adam Head (courtesy The Courier-Mail)

In Outback Queensland, the world’s last remaining boxing tent soldiers on

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UNSUNG HEROES

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Left: Fred Brophy stirs up a bit of pre-fight excitement Right: “Hit the floor three times and you’re out,” Fred tells the fighters

It’s

the touring tent Outback towns wait a year for.

Crowds swell with the arrival of 59-year-old Fred Brophy, who brings his boxers here once a year to take on the town’s toughest street fighters.

The showman drapes himself in a red shirt, stands outside his tent and announces the evening’s program to the sounds of beating drums. Inside, the rules are simple: Box three rounds of ‘a minute or two’ with Fred’s mob.

“If they win, they get $30 a minute,” Fred says. “If they lose, they get the experience. If they fall down three times, they’re out.” Judges are chosen from the crowd: “one from each side of the tent”.

Fred assures there’s no corruption. “Except once we had a fella who someone filled up with drink before the night and who was promised a few more drinks after. During the night, he started swaying the way of the locals … we got rid of him.”

For up to 1,000 excited Outback residents, a $30 entrance fee lets them cheer and shout through eight fights with this tough, travelling boxing corps.

If it all sounds very rare, that’s ’cos it is. Once a mainstay of rural culture in former colonies such as Australia, boxing-tent troupes like Fred’s are now almost extinct. Indeed, his could well be the last of its kind in the world.

RUNNING AWAY FROM THE CIRCUS

Fred was born in Western Australia in 1952. “But I’m a Queenslander,” he asserts. “I was only born there because the Perth Show was on.”

Fred spent his childhood travelling around with sideshows such as the Milo Circus and Brophy Bros Circus.

“Today, there are no sideshows left. Back then, tents had ‘Siamese’ twins, a tattooed girl and a flea circus, and someone spruiked them out the front.”

Back in the day, about 30 tent troupes made their way round Australia putting on shows for enthusiastic locals.

The tents included boxing sessions in which local hopefuls could challenge the travelling troupe’s semiprofessionals. And young Fred got a part of the action.

“I started boxing when I was five years old,” he says. “We used to go in the ring before the main fights and everyone would throw pennies at us. After the fight – it was always a draw – we’d go out the back and halve the money.”

“We’d buy showbags and lollies,” he says. “And the other fighters would teach me how to play poker with the rest of it. They’d take the rest of my money and I’d go back for another fight with tears in my eyes.”

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UNSUNG HEROES

W a

After he got mixed up with the wrong crowd, Fred’s street-fighting antics saw him cop a few years in the nick.

After he came out, Fred says, “I wasn’t a good fighter but I was pretty to watch.”

Knowing how to put on a good show, Fred wanted to run his own tent, an ambition he fulfilled some 30-odd years ago.

“I’ve lived my dream. Actually done it,” he says.

Fred’s great-grandfather, also called Fred, did the same – which makes Fred a fourth-generation travelling tent operator.

And he certainly knows how to make a buck: “If we want an easy show, we can just go to the city but the further out you get, the better the fighters.”

They’d wanna be good. Fred’s boys include James Ellis, one-time super cruiserweight champion of Australia, who takes on the Outback towns’ toughest heavyweights – and Fred’s cash rarely leaves his hands.

His line-up of eight also includes two female fighters: The Bitch and The Beaver.

“Times have changed with all this feminism movement,” Fred says. “I couldn’t believe they wanted to fight in the first place. But you’ve gotta let ’em do what they want to do.”

Fred’s mob has been in training all summer. Blair ‘Cowboy’ Wilson has been training them in Emerald in Central Queensland. The 38-year-old’s tent-boxing career of 500 fights saw him undefeated. He makes sure the fighters are tough.

Glynn ‘Friendly Mauler’ Johnston, 51, part of the much-feared Johnston boxing family of Mount Isa, is getting the Outback boys into shape. Another undefeated tent boxer, Glynn is busy training a new generation of Johnstons, including the mysterious ‘Son of Johnston’.

Indeed, Fred’s boxers – true to showmanship – are so good they often toy with their opponents just to give the crowd a laugh.

END OF AN ERA

Fred’s done well at the game – though he’d never admit it – and he’s a fair hustler: his charitable support of Outback communities and flood victims has earned

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Indeed, Fred’s boxers are so good, they often toy with their opponents just to give the crowd a laugh.

him an Order of Australia medal.

Fred now owns the Cracow Hotel, an Outback Queensland pub that sat on a post-mining boom ghost town when he bought it. (True to Fred’s luck, gold has since been found and a new mining camp has sprung up nearby.)

There, and at his other pub – the Kilkivan Hotel on the Sunshine Coast, run by his wife Sandi – is where this year’s boxing tour starts. “We’ll go to eight to 12 towns in Queensland,” he says.

The tour will include Mount Isa Rodeo and the Birdsville Races. Fred goes to the Outback thoroughbred meet every year and maintains that his 11-year-old gelding, Longstreet, would’ve won in 2010 if the event hadn’t been flooded out.

So far, his promise to buy punters a round if his horse does win has seen his money stay in his pocket – as it does within the tent-boxing circuit.

Fred’s fight club tours only in Queensland; state governments elsewhere stipulate that shows such as his must conform to professional boxing regulations: that’s inside a ring and only one fight, per boxer, per month.

“But I’m not gonna change my boxing tent to suit anyone in the world,” he says.

“The people love it. It’s a big part of Australia; I’m just a figurehead. And, yeah, I’m pretty proud of it, if I do say so myself.”

But when Fred throws in the towel this year, it looks like the tent-boxing tradition will come to an end. “I’ll be the last one, unfortunately,” he says. While he has five children, none are keen to follow in his footsteps so, pending some miracle, Australia’s tent boxing will end.

Meantime, when Fred Brophy’s in town, locals know they’re in for a fight.

Above left: One of Fred’s men schools a local whippersnapper Above right: Fred takes a contender to pieces – with words – in the lead-up to a fight

Th A to O R

B m th

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OUT OF THE BOX

Dream Street WORDS David Gilchrist PHOTOS David Gilchrist and Kitty Hill

36

On Tamworth’s Peel Street, up-andcoming crooners strut their stuff at the world’s premier country music festival

FOR THE

past 40 years, the northern NSW city of Tamworth has played host to Australia’s most successful country music stars – household names such as Slim Dusty, Smoky Dawson, John Williamson and Lee Kernaghan – when the Tamworth Music Festival juggernaut comes to town.

Joining them every year are 500-odd music fans, young and old, each of whom has found a voice or a musical instrument and wants to perform at the festival: the buskers of Peel Street.

Each January they come, from far and wide, to chase dreams inspired by the runaway success of former buskers including Troy Cassar-Daley, Beccy Cole and Kasey Chambers.

FROM THE HEART

Down on Peel Street in the heat of the festival, a cacophony of sounds assaults your senses as buskers in doorways and outside shop windows sing and dance for pocketfuls of change and the love of an audience.

At irregular intervals among the out-oftune performers strangling cheap violins and decimating chords on acoustic guitars are a handful of impressive performers with real potential to take the country music world by the hand and lead it wherever they will. They can make your heart melt with a beautiful ballad or get you dancing with a slick riff.

Standout busker at this year’s festival, Jenny Biddle drew consistent crowds as she saturated festival-goers with a sound that sprung from a place deep within her soul. So strong was the Peel Street draw that Jenny drove 14 hours across 1,200-odd kilometres of highway from Melbourne

to perform, perfecting her lyrics and playing a hands-free mouth organ to kill time on the road.

“It is about connecting with people and people listening to your story. And it’s about putting money in the guitar case,” she says, looking down at the notes and coins piling up in her guitar case.

But the money doesn’t come easy, nor does the busker’s ability to connect with audiences.

The day before I met her, Jenny had been busking for nine days straight and was starting to question whether she’d lost her ability to reach an audience. She sat in the gutter, listened to the foot-tramp of Peel Street passersby and quietly wept.

“Yesterday, I wasn’t feeling my own music,” she says. “I didn’t have enough to give and I could see that I wasn’t creating an audience. I wasn’t creating an atmosphere.”

MUSIC SAVES

One of Peel Street’s best-known personalities, Kenny Rogers look-alike Charlie Saliba, has busked in front of the same shoe shop for more than 30 years. For Charlie, busking is not about beating a path to fame; it’s about personal salvation.

Wearing his sheriff’s star and six guns, Charlie recounts how he didn’t start singing until he turned 40, in 1981. His fancy for singing came at the lowest point in his life: His marriage had fallen apart and he was contemplating suicide.

But his world view changed for the better when an old friend talked him into entering a music festival on the NSW Central Coast. After he wowed the crowd with his rendition of Hank Williams’ Your Cheatin’ Heart, he decided to try

RISING STARS...

Top: Jenny Biddle tries to get her groove back after a tough day on Peel Street Above: Ultimately, it’s all about how well you wear a hat, as busker Don Costa proves in spades

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37

■ PASSPORT

INTRODUCING

THE INSTANT TENT

It’s where we make lifelong friends. Hear stories we can’t forget – or repeat.

And we want it all to last as long as possible.

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So you can go back to just enjoying your time out there…

At The Coleman Campsite, The Original Social Networking Site.

Find us at www.facebook.com/colemanaustralia or www.coleman.com

38

site.

The Coleman Camp

The Original Social Networking Site.

.

OUT OF THE BOX

*

*

“It’s about connecting with people and people listening to your story.

And it’s about money in the guitar case.”

his luck at Tamworth. Since then, he’s appeared in films and musicals and on television but still loves meeting old Peel Street mates.

Despite fronting up this year after recent heart surgery, Charlie reckons the shine has gone off Tamworth: “It’s too noisy. There are too many different types of music – country, rock, blues – and they don’t mix.”

Farther down the street, first-time busker Darrell Bowen pours his heart into getting a small crowd rocking. The gravelly voiced singer and Hunter Valley goldminer says he had only played at friends’ parties when a Tamworth mate talked him into busking on Peel Street.

“Busking is great fun and hopefully, I’ll earn enough money to have a few drinks with friends later in the night,” Darrell says. Judging by the loose change in his guitar case, he was good for a round or two.

GUNNING FOR FAME

Across the way, near the corner of Brisbane Street, 14-year-old Keara Taylor belts her voice out over the hubbub. A born performer who began busking when she was five, Keara revels in Tamworth’s atmosphere and the thrill of being surrounded by hundreds of fellow buskers. For the precocious Sydney teen, Peel Street is about playing for an audience. “It doesn’t matter where or when; I just want them to enjoy my music and me as an artist,” she says before humbly admitting she hopes to become a country music star like Shania Twain. But when I ask her if she would give up busking for fame, she chuckles, saying, “I’ll busk until I die!”

Then there’s the inimitable Lewis Porter with his long, mangy dreadlocks; the madcap Queenslander beams a toothy smile while whipping up crisp, wonderful, earthy notes

through his didgeridoo. Lewis has ventured down to Tamworth from Queensland’s Sunshine Coast for seven of the past eight years – missing last year’s festival courtesy of the state’s floods.

This singer-songwriter’s songs talk about reconciliation, family and his “spiritual link to the land”. Beyond his own songs, he’s likely to set the crowd alight with something by Slim Dusty, John Williamson or Yothu Yindi.

But don’t expect to hear Lewis playing at other festivals; he busks only on Peel Street. Inspired by Tamworth, he spends the rest of the year teaching schoolkids about indigenous culture.

Lewis’s music competes with that of Surkuy, a Latin American folk band. Dressed in white, the band’s sounds echo the syncopated Bolivian rhythms of their homeland and add another layer to the astonishing array of music at this festival.

That’s why, Jenny explains, Peel Street is not as much about the type of music as it is about “pulling people in close, telling stories, sharing dreams”.

Top: Pan-flute busking troupe Surkuy came all the way from South America Above: First-time Peel Street busker Darrell Bowen was more interested in making a bit of beer money than in winning a recording contract

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GET STUFFED

D.I.Y. SPECIAL

Just because you’ve gone bush doesn’t mean you can’t eat like a king.

That’s the gospel according to the Dojo Baker...

MIX IT

1

Find Dojo Bread in the rear lane of 91 Wallace Street, Braidwood, NSW. Open Mon-Sun 9.00am to 1.00pm; check it out online at www.dojobread.com.au.

40

3

(MAKES SEVEN ROLLS)

• 500g high-protein baker’s flour • 10g salt • 3g dried yeast • 300ml water • 5ml olive oil

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

Place your yeast and flour in a bowl and mix. When they are thoroughly combined, add the salt and mix again.

(This step is dead important because if raw salt touches the yeast, it won’t rise.) Add your water and oil and mix some more.

TRY THE REAL THING

SPARE PARTS

• • • • • •

Wooden spoon Chopping board Big plastic container Tea towels Wire tray Sharp knife

KNEAD IT Kneed the dough with your hands, folding it over and over for 10 minutes. Then cover it with a tea towel and allow it to rest for 3 hours. This allows the sugar in the yeast to covert into carbon dioxide to raise and expand the dough.

DIVIDE IT Using a knife and chopping board (an Esky lid will also do), divide the dough into seven evenly sized balls with a sharp knife. Expect the dough to partially deflate as some of the gases escape.

2

ROLL IT Roll each ball of dough into a ‘roll’, with a smooth surface on top and a rough seam on the bottom. To achieve this, cup your hands over each ball and stretch the top like a drum skin, pushing the seam onto itself.

BRUSH IT Brush your camp oven with olive oil and place your rolls on the bottom in an even pattern. Let them rest for two minutes, then dust with flour to stop the tops from burning.

5

BAKE IT

7 2

Place the camp oven on a flat bed of hot coals. Put your mitts on and, with a shovel, pour more coals on top for better heat distribution. Bake for 12 to 16 minutes, depending on the intensity of the heat.

4

6 COOL IT

Remove and cool on a wire tray.

If properly cooked, the tops and bottoms should have a light brown colour. They should also make a ‘hollowish’ sound when tapped, indicating that all the water has evaporated.

THE DOJO BAKER IF THERE’S ONE thing Matthew Hulse loves more than baking, it’s aikido. A second-degree black belt and instructor in his hometown of Braidwood NSW, he studied under ‘O Sensei’, the man who created aikido at his farm near Mito in Japan’s Ibaraki prefecture.

When he’s not using his aikido skills to break up fights at the pub, Matthew spends his time injecting the philosophy of martial arts into every aspect of his business – from manual labour to customer service to human-resource management.

“Aikido is about harmonious reconciliation and I use the same philosophy for all my interactions with customers and staff,” he says.

“Rather than try to dominate or win, I seek the best possible outcome, so everyone walks away happy.

“Martial arts also helps me a lot in preparing the bread. The physical rigours of lifting and moving large amounts of raw material require you to be strong and work fast. Without my aikido training, my business wouldn’t be the success it is today.”

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41

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*

HOOK, LINE ‘N’ SINKER

IN THE

With winter approaching, there’s no better time to fish for black bream.

Shimano’s Brett Wilson reports

previous issue of max*d, I told you about a fishing trip to Arnhem Land where we caught more barramundi than we could ever eat. This time we headed to the other side of the continent, to Mallacoota in north-east Victoria, to hunt for another top game species: southern black bream.

You can hunt for black bream all year round but they’re most active – and easier to catch – in the winter months. They’re a marine species but prefer deep waters of coastal lakes and estuaries such as Mallacoota Inlet, where they can swim into the upper reaches of the river to spawn.

Once you know where to find them, you need the right gear.

To start with, you need a boat to reach deep waters and a long, soft rod with light tackle. Your leader (the material that goes between the braided line and the lure) should be tested between 2.5 pounds and 4 pounds, so that it cuts well through the water and gives effective contact with the lure. This way you can feel the smallest bite.

Speaking of lures, at Shimano we have developed a lure that bottom feeders like black bream find irresistible: it’s called the Vibe. Available in 5 grams or 8 grams, the Vibe is a thin, fishshaped lure that vibrates strongly from side to side when it’s

R E T S BU BREAM

Below: Bream: To eat or not to eat? That is the question...

44

pulled through the water, emulating the movements of a small crab or fish.

Cast your line long and let the lure sink to the bottom. Once you feel it hit, lift the rod lightly to bring the lure off the bottom and then let it sink again. Nine times out of 10, bream strike while the lure is falling back down.

We released all the bream we caught, but I know a lot of you won’t be able to resist chucking them in the frying pan. In this case, you need a measure to ensure your catch meets the minimum legal size.

In Victoria and SA, black bream need to be at least 28 centimetres from head to fin; in NSW and WA, it’s only 25 centimetres.

Bag limits (the number of fish that can be caught per angler, per day) vary from state to state and from region to region – so make sure you’re attuned to these requirements to avoid copping a fine.

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25/08/11 1:32 PM