max*d Issue 18

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ISUZU UTE AUSTRALIA | Issue 18

FLINDERS

KEEPERS Take your place on the roof of South Australia

AXLE DEEP

Pull yourself out of trouble—every time

STAR TREKS

Our best bushwalks

ROADHOUSES!

Find an Outback oasis



Contents ISSUE 18

18 COVER STORY Join an all-action Isuzu D-MAX and MU-X convoy into the heart of South Australia’s Flinders Ranges

REGULARS 04 READERS’ RIDES You’ve gone your own way—now grab a cuppa and tell us where you’ve been

06 NEWS Aussies place fourth in Isuzu technical comp; MU-X the star in Borneo Safari

10 WISHLIST

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FEATURES 24 OUT OF THE BOX Our Outback roadhouses are uniquely Australian. Ringed by vast distances, dusty roos and (in one case) bits of Skylab, they’re pleased to see you

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Applying sunscreen needn’t be greasy, or a chore. Paint it now or peel it later

12 TECH HEAD Getting off-road is a 4WD joy. But getting stuck? Not so much. Here’s help

16 INSIDE LINE Think you know it all about your D-MAX or MU-X? Find out with our pub trivia!

34 THE LIST The max*d guide to our best—and certified drop bear-free—bushwalks

28 TRAVELLER

38 HOOK, LINE ’N’ SINKER

The trip to ‘The Tip’—where tropical Queensland lurches into the beautiful Torres Strait—is a 4WD rite of passage. Learn from the masters

Andrew and Nick christen a new craft and chase elusive kingfish and tuna

32 UNSUNG HEROES Carmine Caputo once examined IED-scarred vehicles for the defence force. Now he travels the country, helping people find their dreams

40 REFUEL Masterchef alumnus Ben Milbourne does easy, tasty fish and Balinese beef

43 FLASHBACK Meet the Isuzu Trooper, five-time winner of the Australian Safari!

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Feel the excitement of life through the world of fishing


Welcome

to our latest issue of max*d magazine!

G

reetings, Isuzu UTE family! I am happy to report that here at Isuzu UTE Australia (IUA) we are about to close the door on another very successful year. As we go to press, we will be recognising the sale of our 90,000th vehicle since we started business here back in late 2008, so for that I owe you all—our proud owners— a big thanks! We have come a long way since our humble beginnings, and are always working hard to improve our products and aftersales service, which is always a challenge when you’re growing rapidly—and we hope we are always exceeding your expectations. As an illustration of this commitment, this year we introduced a new initiative with our ‘Service Plus Driving Report’. This unique program can provide you with invaluable insights into your driving style and highlight areas of opportunity that can assist to provide better fuel efficiency. So next time you have your vehicle serviced at an authorised Isuzu UTE service outlet, make sure you ask for one and our technicians will download your data to produce your report. In addition, our marketing and events team continued to grow our very popular I-VENTURE Club this year. More events were added to the calendar so everyone could experience what our great vehicles are capable of. Some longer, threeand four-day touring events to amazing locations were also trialled

with great success and we hope to bring you more of these in 2017. You can read all about our recent trip to the Flinders Ranges in this issue. With lots of new projects in the pipeline, we’re gearing up for an even bigger year in 2017 and hope you will continue to join us for the ride! On behalf of all the team at IUA, I would like to take this opportunity to thank all our valued customers and suppliers for their ongoing support and we wish everyone a very merry Christmas and a safe, healthy and prosperous new year.

Yasu Takeuchi Managing Director & CEO Isuzu UTE Australia

We’re gearing up for an even bigger year in 2017 and hope you will continue to join us for the ride!

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ON THE GO!

READERS’ RIDES

D-MAX and MU-X owners tend to get around. Tell us where you’ve been, and win! KUNO BERGHOUT

Lives: Modbury, South Australia Drives: 2014 MU-X 4x4 LS-U “My MU-X is one of the best purchases I’ve made. It has taken me and my three kids to so many great places; we’ve been to the Murray Mouth a few times and gone to Uluru and Palm Valley in the Territory. Our latest trek was to Innamincka in Outback South Australia, on the Cooper Creek via the Flinders Ranges. As you can see from the photo, things got rather wet, slippery and muddy on the way! The kids loved the mud and water going everywhere, while I was grateful for the Isuzu’s fantastic 4WD handling to keep us on the track. The awesome fuel economy was also pretty handy in getting us from one petrol station to the next.”

DAVID BRENNAN

Lives: Little Mountain, Qld Drives: 2015 D-MAX 4x4 LS-M

“I bought my D-MAX earlier this year after a recommendation from a mechanic friend. Our first trip was to Moreton Island, and I was hesitant at first—I hadn’t driven on sand for a few years!—but the new D-MAX handled all the tracks with ease and negotiated the softest sand with no problems whatsoever. Since then we’ve been up to Tin Can Bay, along the beaches and through the bush tracks in the National Parks between the Sunshine Coast and Brisbane, and next we’d really like to go up north. I was up in the Daintree about 20 years ago and my partner hasn’t seen it. I want to see how it’s changed—and now we have the perfect vehicle to make the trip!”

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GRAHAM MADDEN Lives: Warwick, Qld / Drives: 2015 D-MAX 4x4 LS-U “This is our second D-MAX and we’ve put 30,000km on it, towing an 18ft 6in (5.64m) caravan. We were so impressed with our first 2009 model that we didn’t hesitate in buying another one. We love travelling out west and seeing new places; I just can’t get enough of the country, getting off the beaten track and into the dirt. Next, we’re planning to head down to Victoria over Christmas, camping all along the way. We’re getting out and having a yarn; it’s the best time of our lives!”

RAYMOND WATERS

Lives: Traralgon South, Gippsland, Vic Drives: 2013 D-MAX 4x4 SX “I’ve had my D-MAX for just over three years and I’ve already clocked up 110,000km! It’s been as far as Cape York, Uluru, Oodnadatta and the Birdsville Track. My lady has a bucket list of places she’d like to see and we’re ticking them off. Our next big trip is to Broome—she doesn’t believe there’s a statue of Red Dog up in Dampier so I’m going to show her. I don’t understand people who buy 4WDs and only use them as a shopping cart. It only took me three days to scratch my D-MAX and now it’s got more scratchings than all the Melbourne Cups put together and it’s going strong—and I’ve earned every one of them. And there’s still not a single rattle in it!”

MALCOLM AND DIANNE DOLPHIN Lives: Semaphore Park, SA Drives: 2015 MU-X 4x4 LS-T

“‘G’day mate. How do you like your Isuzu?’ That’s a question I asked a lot of our fellow travellers on our 18,500km trip up the centre and then down to Perth before returning home to Adelaide. Without fail, the response was very positive, and I probably asked 20 fellow drivers—there are a lot of Isuzu drivers out there towing their vans! We towed our 20ft (6.1m) van up to Darwin and the mileage was increasing as we went along. Our late-September timing was nearly perfect for seeing the wildflowers, especially the blooms in the northern wheat belt areas. So in answering my own question, I too will reply, ‘I love it, mate!’”

WANT TO SCORE A $50 CALTEX FUEL CARD? Send a high-resolution image with your VIN, name, contact details, town and model of your D-MAX or MU-X, plus a 100-word blurb, to maxd@iua.net.au. Disclaimer: Non-genuine aftermarket accessories and modifications are not recommended or endorsed by Isuzu UTE Australia. For detailed info on ‘what is’ and ‘what is not’ covered by the Manufacturer’s Warranty please refer to the Warranty and Service Booklet.

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PUBLISHER Isuzu UTE Australia Pty Ltd ISUZU UTE AUSTRALIA MANAGING EDITORS Dave Harding, Cody Harland EDITOR Ben Smithurst ben.smithurst@edge.agency MANAGING EDITOR Paul Rodger SUB-EDITOR Michael Ryan ART DIRECTOR Guy Pendlebury ACCOUNT MANAGER Emma Rogers ADVERTISING SALES Chris Waite chris.waite@edge.agency MANAGING PARTNERS Fergus Stoddart, Richard Parker

max*d is published on behalf of Isuzu UTE Australia Pty Ltd by

Level 4, 10–14 Waterloo Street, Surry Hills NSW 2010 Phone: +61 2 8962 2600 edgecustom.com.au

Disclaimer: The information included in this magazine is intended for interest only. The opinions and views expressed in this magazine are provided in the writers’ personal capacities and are their sole responsibility. Their publication does not imply that they represent the views or opinions of Isuzu UTE Australia or Edge and must neither be regarded as constituting advice on any matter nor be interpreted as such. The reproduction of advertisements in this publication does not in any way imply endorsement by Isuzu UTE Australia or Edge of products or services referred to therein. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. A selection of the images featured in this publication has been sourced from Getty Images and Thinkstock Images. Business Essentials trading as Edge ABN 22 062 493 869.

max*d magazine is proudly printed in Australia using renewable resources. Hanno Gloss is an FSC Mixed Sources Certified paper, which ensures that all virgin pulp is derived from well-managed forests and controlled sources. It contains elemental chlorine-free bleached pulp and is manufactured by an ISO 14001 certified mill.

SGS-COC-003898

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Aussie crew place 4th in the Isuzu technical world competition Isuzu UTE Australia (IUA) has finished fourth in the recent Isuzu Technical World Competition in Thailand. Commonly known as the ‘I-1 Grand Prix,’ the event brings together the best teams of Isuzu technicians from 22 countries—and pits them against each other in fierce competition. Contested categories include mechanical measuring, a practical assembly exercise, electrical diagnostics, practical repair tests, a vehicle inspection and systems management diagnosis. The teams also undergo an intensive written exam that covers general and Isuzu-specific technical product knowledge. IUA was represented by technicians Anthony Wood, from Wagga Wagga Isuzu UTE, and Tim Haag, from Blue Ribbon (Ipswich) Isuzu UTE – and the team was coached by IUA’s Trainer & Fleet Care Manager Sam Junuzovic. IUA’s team was the fastest team to finish all five questions in the practical competition and scored second place in written competition. To add further weight to its performance, Australia’s team was the highest-placed Isuzu LCV distributor that does not have a native manufacturing operation. For the record, Indonesia placed first, ahead of the Philippines, with Thailand third.


NEWS

Isuzu MU-X top performer in Borneo safari Touted as the toughest Borneo Safari in 12 years, the 2016 event was the first time Isuzu unleashed the seven-seater SUV on the Sabah jungle. Tropical storms presented the nearly 430-strong convoy with slippery and muddy conditions, and numerous steep uphill and downhill slopes that tested the teams’ machines—and driving skills—to the limit. On debut, the Isuzu MU-X took home the ‘Vehicle of the Year’ award for the event, performing flawlessly, even in the ultra-tough, hardcore part of the trail, a 30km section so intense that it took teams three days to complete. Finishing strongly, the MU-X required no spare parts or repairs—speaking volumes of its quality and reliability. In its 26th year, the event saw a record number of entrants, with over 900 competitors involved. Hailing from as far afield as Malaysia, Brunei, Indonesia, Thailand, Japan, Portugal, and China, all covered a total distance of 500km during the challenge.

Fishing legend Mark Berg joins the team! Isuzu UTE recently welcomed TV fisherman extraordinaire Mark Berg to its family of partners. Mark has been a proud D-MAX owner since 2014 after he purchased a limited edition X-Runner. He has now added another new D-MAX to his garage: this time a 4x4 LS-U. Producing two TV programs, Fishing Addiction and The Next Level, Mark and his crew travel to some of the country’s most incredible locations in search of that elusive catch. Fishing Addiction and The Next Level can both be seen on 7mate.

FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM

If you want to keep up with all things Isuzu UTE, make sure you’re following us on our social pages! facebook.com/isuzuute Instagram: @isuzuute_aus

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ho purchase w y d d u b a r fe re U-X owners whUo-X are eligible to claim a $150 M d n a X A -M D u z Existing Isu r demonstrator D-MAX or M eir buddy.* a new or dealerd Card for themselves and th Service Rewa

$15 0 PLUS

SERVICCEARDˆ REWARD

oth you and ydorauwr . b e iv g l il w l a rr rize l refe every succetrssyfuinto our I-Venture Club trip p buddy an en

BUDDY UP FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN AN I-VENTURE CLUB TRIP*

Find out more or complete your Buddy Bonus Plus online claim form at

ISUZUUTE.COM.AU/BUDDYBONUSPLUS *Terms and conditions apply, see full details at isuzuute.com.au/buddybonusplus. Entry available to private, ABN, primary producer and national fleet customer sales only. Available at Participating Isuzu UTE Dealers only. ^Redeemable at Participating Isuzu UTE Dealers only. Valid for 12 months from issue. See terms and conditions for further information. Offer ends 31/3/2017. Permit Numbers: NSW; LTPS/16/02172, ACT; 16/00543, SA; T16/482.


NEWS Isuzu UTE website picks up digital awards The Isuzu UTE Australia (IUA) website has continued its success and won new plaudits for its design, content and implementation. The 22nd AMY Awards, presented by the Australian Interactive Media Industry Association (AIMIA), are the longest-running and most prestigious awards in Australia’s digital industry, and recognise the highest global standards of excellence in website design and development. Against a strong field and in a national context, the Isuzu UTE website was awarded the industry’s highest benchmark. Through their digital agency Liquid Interactive, IUA’s site won the ‘Best Website or Online Service’ and ‘Best use of Tablet or Smartphone’ awards in the automotive category. IUA’s website has previously been commended for its exceptional user experience by Google.

Team D-MAX to thrill in 2017 and beyond! Australia’s premier precision driving ensemble, Team D-MAX, will continue to wow crowds with its jumps, skids and two-wheeling in Isuzu D-MAX and MU-Xs for at least another three years after signing a new deal with Isuzu UTE Australia. Since switching to Isuzu vehicles back in 2012, Team D-MAX has entertained millions of spectators across the country with both its action-packed stadium shows and its ‘Iron Summit’ ramp. For a full list of events, and where you can catch Team D-MAX performances in 2017, keep an eye on the team’s website: teamdmax.com.au

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WISHLIST

by Michael Benn

CREAM OF THE CROP Ward off skin cancer and stop your face from looking like a catcher’s mitt. Here’s our pick of the best sunscreens

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NEUTROGENA

Beach Defence water + sun barrier lotion

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You’d expect a lotion made by the US cosmetics label fronted by stars such as Vanessa Hudgens and Julie Bowen from Modern Family to be wildly overpriced and a bit boutique. But Neutrogena’s SPF50 soaks in immediately, is pleasantly fragrant (as in, inoffensively perfumed and gender neutral) and has four hours’ water resistance. Like moisturiser, only it may stop you from dying. Hard to beat. RRP $16.99 for 198ml, priceline.com.au

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SHADE

Bottle SPF30+ Tinted

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Free from chemicals and animal derivatives, Shade began life as a luxe US brand, invented by a Californian surfer and pharmacist. Then former world surfing champ Joel Parkinson tried it in Tahiti. Now he’s joined mate Ryan Hipwood, big-wave matador and Isuzu UTE ambassador, in bringing the sunscreen’s many lotions to Australia. Scentless, with 12 per cent zinc oxide, it’s pricey, but a little goes a very long way. RRP $34 for $50ml, shadesunscreen.com

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BUSHMAN

Heavy Duty 80% DEET

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Mixing sunscreen and bug stopper is mildly controversial—it’s argued that the insect repellent can reduce the effectiveness of the sunscreen, and the sunscreen can help the bad bits of the repellent absorb into your innards. But if you’re headed for a week hunting mangrove jack in a tinnie, Bushman’s DEETladen lotion is difficult to fault. It’s resistant to sweat, rubbing and rain, but it’s not for use on young kids. RRP $10.75 for 75ml, chemistwarehouse.com.au

BANANA BOAT

Kids SPF 50+ large pump Slathering unwilling kids in SPF50+ while at the beach is one of parenting’s great joys, like school fees, dropped soft-serve in the back seat upholstery and being woken up by the occasional unforgiving toy to the face. What you need in a product is volume, effectiveness— to maximise time before you have to do it again—and a cream that won’t run into their eyes. Banana Boat’s answer is simple, non-greasy and four-hour water resistant. RRP $21.99, chemistwarehouse.com.au



TECH HEAD

by David Wilson

Getting

unstuck

In the first of a two-part series, I-VENTURE Club all-round 4WD guru David Wilson helps you to help yourself get out of tricky situations

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If you’re a serious 4WD enthusiast you’ll have been stuck at some stage. If you haven’t, then your off-road adventures haven’t been serious enough. So in the interests of those of you keen to push the envelope, over the next two issues we’ll help you handle the worst aspects of getting stuck. First up: how to help yourself. Let’s start at the bottom...

Tyre pressure If you’ve already been to one of our I-VENTURE Club days you will have heard me mention the importance of tyre pressure. It is THE number-one trick up your sleeve for staying mobile, yet so many people are unaware of its benefits. The tyre pressure you should be running on-road (that’s the blacktop) is stated on your tyre placard. Nearly every 4WD owner I come across off-road has their tyres overinflated, often by 50 per cent or more. Right from the get-go

you’re setting yourself up for a fail. An over-inflated tyre spells trouble! An unladen D-MAX or MU-X should be running around 30PSI (200kPa) front and rear. As the track worsens, start letting air out. If you’re struggling, let some more out. Each incremental adjustment of a few PSI will bring an immediate improvement. If the trail is really bad, drop straight to 15PSI (100kPa) so the tyre’s footprint length will stretch long and give you the flotation you crave. If you avoid sharp turns, hard braking or acceleration, you should be able to keep that tyre on the rim. However, emergencies often call for drastic and quick solutions so 12PSI, 10PSI or maybe even 8PSI aren’t unreasonable if your new Isuzu is in peril.

Transmission selection As soon as you move from bitumen to dirt, switch into high-range 4WD. Highspeed dirt kills plenty of holidaymakers and all the safety technology in the world can’t overcome the laws of physics

if you’ve hooked into that corner too fast, on gravel, in 2WD. Just as we incrementally changed the pressure, you also need to adjust your speed downwards and be ready to select LOW range. Lots of folk only engage LOW when they are bogged—too late. The advantage with LOW range is torque and lots of it. Whether auto or manual, you’ve got four or five forward gears at your disposal with a ground speed between zero and around 60km/h. This is plenty fast enough for most rough trails, but the difference between HIGH and LOW will be the amount of torque you’ll have ready to punch through that next sand drift or lump of mud. In LOW you’ll always have gears up your sleeve. Once the problem is dealt with you might be able to resume in HIGH. For most people, getting bogged is irritating. Dave likes to do it on purpose

Lose the traction control Traction control can be another hindrance. That button behind the

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TECH HEAD

MaxTrax: because even Sherpas don’t climb Everest without crampons

indicator stalk turns off some of the safety electronics. On-road they’re invaluable, doing a brilliant job of saving lives at high speeds. Off-road, however, traction control can get in the way. Push and hold the button for a few seconds and you’ll see the TCS symbol light up, confirming it’s been disabled. Now, with no inhibitions you can squeeze gently on that accelerator pedal and get the desired effect.

Stay on the ball. Plan your attack —then reassess as you go Let’s say you’re ascending a hill and you realise you’ve made a poor gear or range choice. Persisting with the forward motion might get you bogged. Think about the gradient and use it to your advantage by backing up. If you can find a better place to launch from, with a better gear combo, you might just be able to get through. Use that same philosophy on a beach.

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If you’re stopping for a while, try and do it with the vehicle’s nose pointing downhill. Then when you want to get going again you’ve got less resistance and the gradient might give you the assistance you need to get going again.

Get ready to rock Everything I’ve covered would come under ‘driving defensively’—trying to prevent getting bogged in the first place—but if you do get stuck, here are a couple of tips: Firstly, get off the gas before you sink the chassis to the deck. If you can keep some clearance under the vehicle you’ve got a chance of getting it out on your own. The old ‘rocking’ technique has worked for me in the past—selecting first and reverse in rapid succession to repeatedly compact the material underneath those wheels, and creating a slingshot moment of inertia that should have you driving out easily.


Can you dig it? Yes, you can If that fails, it’ll likely be time to roll up the sleeves and dig out the long-handled shovel. Let’s get to work. Get down on your hands and knees and have a look. Any chassis or suspension contact has to be removed so it’ll likely be the rear axle, the front suspension lower wishbones and gearbox and transfer bash-plates that’ll be the offending parties. Dig them out.

MaxTrax can save you Sticking a lump of timber or a rock under a wheel is an old furphy, too. To be of any advantage, the assisting piece has to be placed centrally under the wheel. That’s rarely possible. Also, that piece of material is habitat for something so leave the sticks and stones alone. You’ve likely seen MaxTrax? Much better! The trick to MaxTrax is to get the raised cleats on the Trax surface to engage with your tread blocks and voids

on the face of your tyre. The MaxTrax itself makes a good shovel, with nifty handles down each side. Remove some of the material ahead of the tyre (if you’re going forward) or behind (if you’re going backwards) and try and jam the leading edge of the MaxTrax hard up against the lower quarter of the tyre. If you’ve only got two, have a look at which wheels are spinning. You’ll notice a diagonal action going on. They are the ones needing grip restored. With the MaxTrax in place, select LOW range first, or reverse, and gently get those wheels turning, not spinning—spin your wheels and your MaxTrax will be toast,

with the friction burning those cleats off in a jiff. Done properly, the vehicle should effortlessly rear up and out of the hole.

Don’t get the jack I could also mention jacks as they have had their moment in the sun in the evolution of 4WDs. I’ve successfully used a standard bottle jack in rocky conditions to good effect and with the use of a sturdy BBQ plate in the soft stuff. What I won’t use is a Hi-lift—they’re heavy, inconvenient and dangerous— or an exhaust jack, which simply won’t inflate sufficiently with modern engine electronics. No help there.

TO BE CONTINUED Come back next issue for Part Two: Good 4WD Citizenship, or how to offer a helping hand to others. See you then!

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INSIDE LINE

by Stephen Corby

In the hands of precision stunt drivers, a Team D-MAX ute recently climbed the world’s steepest 4WD ramp, the Isuzu UTE Iron Summit, which boasts an incredible incline slope of 45 degrees. That means the car had to climb one metre vertically for every metre travelled.

Isuzu is one of Japan’s oldest car companies and was founded in 1916 as Tokyo Automobile Industries. ‘Isuzu’ was actually the model name of one of the company’s first cars and translates as ‘50 bells’—the sound of water flowing in the Isuzu river.

American actor David Leisure—see ’90s sitcom Empty Nest—gained fame in the role of ‘Joe Isuzu’, a dicey car salesman who spouted outrageous lies in US Isuzu commercials in the 1980s. ‘Joe’ popped up in speeches by Ronald Reagan and, more recently, Family Guy. His whoppers (“It has more seats than the Astrodome! You have my word on it!”) were accompanied by a flashing ‘He’s Lying’ disclaimer on-screen.

Isuzu is the world’s biggest manufacturer of diesel engines— and has now built more than 23 million globally.

D-MAX

The MU-X is not sold in Japan because it’s too big. Under Japan’s strict ‘dimension regulations’, its exterior measurements would place it in such a high road-tax bracket that it would not make economic sense.

PUB FACTS

Think you know all there is to know about your Isuzu D-MAX or MU-X? This weird and wild max*d trivia will make you think again 16 max*d

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Lucky British buyers have the enticing choice of buying an Arctic Trucks AT35 version of the D-MAX, which rides on massive 35-inch off-road tyres ready for tackling the North Pole.

In 2007, Isuzu celebrated its 50th anniversary by producing ‘Gold Series’ D-MAX models, with gold Isuzu badges on the exterior and a particularly colourful, gold-ringed version on the steering wheel.

Workers at the Isuzu plant in Laguna in the Philippines, where their local D-MAXs are built, start every day with some bouncy ‘radio calisthenics’ to build company morale and camaraderie. The company’s executives join in at least once a week. The factory workers then don colour-coded hats that indicate their role and position on the assembly line.

Pope Francis rode in a D-MAX ‘Popemobile’ while in Manila in 2015 and liked it so much that the Vatican took it home. It has since appeared in Asunción, Paraguay and Warsaw, Poland and is kitted out with an Italian red patent leather chair and bespoke carpentry ... in the tray.

The Isuzu D-MAX is the number one-selling car in Thailand, where total annual car sales average more than 800,000 vehicles a year. It is the world’s largest ute market, with ‘pickups’ making up over half of all vehicles sold—and Isuzu alone creeping towards 25 per cent of all sales, the majority of which are D-MAXs.

Team D-MAX’s most famous—and dangerous—stunt is driving the car for a whole lap on two wheels. The stunt is performed using a standard D-MAX fitted with more puncture-resistant tyres.

The quickest D-MAX is Thai. Thailand has a booming and eclectic dragracing scene, with heavily modified D-MAXs vying for the crown as the fastest on the track. The current king is Thanaphon Chucahroenpon, whose D-MAX Spacecab—“the fastest 4-cylinder diesel-powered pickup in the world”—has a quartermile record of just 7.8 seconds and a top speed of over 265km/h. Issue 18 |

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COVER STORY

by Peter Barnwell

Fancy heading further afield than your neighbourhood’s steepest driveway? Of course you do—and in the Flinders Ranges, Isuzu UTE’s I-VENTURE Club has the answer

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t’s out there, sitting on the drive, ready for action at your beck and call. You use your Isuzu D-MAX or MU-X for ‘general duties’ like towing the boat or van, or for work or recreation … but there’s something missing. The D-MAX and MU-X are tailor-made 4WD adventure vehicles. They’re the real deal, with proper selectable 4WD, plenty of ground clearance, super robust mechanicals and solid construction to go pretty much anywhere. The trick is deciding where to take this tough customer to fully explore its capabilities. If you have the time and inclination, and want to tick off that ‘bucket list’ trip to a legendary Aussie location, Isuzu’s I-VENTURE Club may have the answer you’re looking for. Since early 2015, the club has provided engaging and affordable opportunities for Isuzu owners to sample some serious off-road 4WD adventure. It’s the only club of its kind, run by any manufacturer, to exist in Australia. The most recent I-VENTURE Club 4WD escapade was over four days,

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heading out of Adelaide into the Flinders Ranges. Highly experienced 4WD experts David Wilson and Drew Symonds lead a 16-vehicle convoy into the area first explored by Europeans at the turn of the 18th Century—but in a style that put Matthew Flinders’ footsore scrambling up St Mary Peak to shame. Apart from providing witty repartee on the two-way radios fitted to all I-VENTURE vehicles, it’s David and Drew’s job to get you there (with coaching if needed) and back safely without damaging you or the vehicle. At the same time, they’re charged with maximising your enjoyment of the experience. Each day of the trip is packed with highlights both scenic and skilful. The run up from Adelaide rolling through the gorgeous Clare Valley and along RM Williams Way to Hawker provides a taste, with stop-offs at historic Jamestown for morning tea and a quick squiz at Orroroo. There follows an offroad driving and safety briefing and lunch at Hawker, with plenty of ’comfort’ stops along the way.


Image courtesy of Cornelius Ionescu.


COVER STORY

Left: Parachilna’s Prairie Hotel is remote, but its menu is world famous. Try the Feral Mixed Grill, with roo mettwurst, emu pate and goat’s cheese

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Images courtesy of Kim Jacobs.

A feast of photo opportunities presents itself at every turn, building to a crescendo as the convoy regroups at historic Rawnsley Park Station in the shadow of Wilpena Pound. The convoy then strikes into the heart of the Flinders itself, turning off sealed road onto the Arkapena Scenic Adventure drive and up through the Chance Ranges with breathtaking views of the ABC Range. After advice from Dave and Drew, this is where you engage 4WD and deflate your tyres to around 24PSI for better grip and to prevent punctures. You will be in 4WD LOW or HIGH for the next few days. David and Drew, with help from Isuzu UTE Australia’s staff, are fully equipped to help with this and all other vehicle adjustments needed to complete the trip safely. They have comprehensive recovery equipment, as well as electric air compressors, stowed in their D-MAXs. Overnight accommodation at Wilpena Pound is in the luxury of ‘glamping’ tents with a sumptuous meal around the campfire, then off to bed for an early morning kick-off heading up to Chambers Gorge with its more than 20,000-year-old Aboriginal rock art. The drive is all dirt and a breeze in the Isuzu siblings, thanks to their supple suspension, easy select 4WD and torquey 3.0-litre engines. You have to be on the ball, though, dodging shinglebacks and

numerous emu that wander onto the road, usually to stand and stare at you. The country is in stunning condition, strikingly green after heavy recent rains and there’s even some water in the many creek crossings and waterholes. The noon temperature in late October is a pleasant 25 degrees. Positively balmy. Lunch is a salad ‘sanga’ and juice at Chambers Gorge, then off to the old copper mining town of Blinman for an underground inspection. Wandering through the hard rock maze under Blinman works up a thirst, so some

I-VENTURErs decided to take a short run over to Parachilna’s legendary Prairie Hotel for a Fargher Lager, then come back to Wilpena through two gorgeous gorge drives, crossing the Flinders at Brachina and Bunyeroo gorges with a dip in the crystal waters on the way. Overnight is again at Wilpena Pound in preparation for Day Three, with possibly the highlight of the adventure, a challenging drive along Yacca Ridge to Minburra Plains, followed by the big one: a bumping, jinking, scrabbling drive along the Bendleby Ranges’ infamous and steep


The country is in stunning condition, strikingly green after heavy recent rains. There’s even some water in the many creek crossings and waterholes.

Billy Goat Ridge Trail, which is justifiably rated as ‘difficult’ on the ‘fourbie’ scale (not to be confused with the Victorian high country’s Billy Goat Bluff Trail, featured last issue). Tonight’s digs are a shearers’ quarters farm stay at Bendleby ranges, where we arrive at noon for check-in. Then it’s off into the boonies for the challenge ahead. What a challenge it was, with the D-MAXs and MU-Xs all crawling along at a snail’s pace over shale rock steps, washaways, scree slopes and diagonal ruts with steep drop offs each side.

David and Drew were right in among it, coaching the less-experienced drivers over the hardest spots. “Put your left wheel here in this rut, aim your steering wheel straight at me and keep going until I say turn sharp right”—or a variation thereof— was crackling over the two-way for most of the day as the two experts got us through. Progress was slow but the satisfaction factor was high as the Isuzus essentially walked through the rough terrain. As a shirt somewhere should probably say:

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COVER STORY

! ster Regi ilability,

va or eck a ing f To ch edul h c s t selec s and rips, price t g ce i n mi f cho upco ion o t a au. . c lo b.com your reclu ! u g t n n e oadi at iv off-r y p p Ha

race car drivers finish too fast, 4WDers enjoy the experience. We rolled off Billy Goat Ridge at about 4.30pm before heading back to our accommodation for a beer or three, followed by another stunning campfire dinner around the fire pit under a starry sky. It’s an addictive way to unwind. Day Four was essentially a transport stage back through Orroroo to Adelaide, punctuated by a great lunch and wine tasting at the Stone Bridge winery in Clare (try the shiraz and the riesling). Over the four days the convoy covered about 1000km on- and off-road with plenty of time in both HIGH and LOW-range 4WD. Two punctures were the only issues for the 16 Isuzu vehicles along for the fun, plenty of which was had by the I-VENTURErs who took part. Two of them were Narelle and Bruce Bowden, who’d made the trip down from Queensland in their 2014 D-MAX. “We sampled an I-VENTURE drive on Moreton Island and were sold, so when this ‘big one’ came up we had no hesitation at all in enlisting,” Narelle said.

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The couple spend about six months a year on the road seeking 4WD adventure in their D-MAX, which hasn’t missed a beat in two-and-a-half years. The youngest I-VENTURE attendee, Jayden Day from Moss Vale, in NSW, took the wheel for the first time in father Ian’s MU-X, while out on one of the more remote Flinders tracks, on private land. And loved it.

“I’ll definitely be coming back with mates when I get the chance,” he said. “This place is so cool. Everything is fun.” Which was the overall reaction from all of the I-VENTURErs on the first ‘big’ Flinders run. Many more are planned at numerous locations around the country. Get ready to rumble.

Above: Not your average Toorak driveway incline. This image: a 16-strong MU-X and D-MAX convoy can cart a mountain of gear—but there’s always room for more stories



OUT OF THE BOX

by Ben Smithurst

ICONIC ROADHOUSES

They’re far from posh, but on a long, dry and dusty trip through the Outback, few sights are as welcome as a good old Aussie roadhouse. Here are some of the best …

SOUTH AUSTRALIA For such an empty state, South Australia is crammed with great roadhouses, including Spud’s Roadhouse at Pimba, 480km north of Adelaide (spudshotel.com. au). Spud passed away in 2007 but his eponymous roadhouse endures in the town where the mighty Ghan and Indian Pacific trains pull in (on request) twice a week. Until 1956, The Nullarbor Roadhouse (nullarborroadhouse.com.au) was the hub of the 1.25 million-acre Nullarbor sheep and cattle station. Today it showcases vibrant murals by local artist Pam Armstrong and manages access to whale watching and limestone caves.

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Marla Travellers’ Rest (marla.com.au), east of the Anangu Pitjantjatjara Lands and just 159km from the NT border, has everything the weary traveller needs and a pool table and corrugated-iron bar besides. The Glendambo Roadhouse (glendamborh.com.au) serves up great pub grub and an open fire. The iconic Innamincka Trading Post (innaminckatp. com.au), built in 1972—just 111 years too late to save Burke & Wills, who’d have murdered a burger—makes up for the delay with bustling Outback hospitality. If you’re after a very hearty feed in the middle of nowhere, head 200km northeast of Coober Pedy. There at the gateway to

the Simpson Desert, the very pink Pink Roadhouse (pinkroadhouse.com.au) has been banging out heart-busting, mouth-watering Oodna Burgers for 16 years. But why is it pink? “Um, I’m sorry to say, but we actually painted it pink for marketing,” admitted former owner and Outback character Lynnie Plate in 2013.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA The state four times the size of Texas has dozens of notable roadhouses and the western edge of the Nullarbor boasts its fair share. The Eyre Highway’s Cocklebiddy Roadhouse Caravan Park


(nullarbornet.com.au) sits on the doorstep of the pristine Nuytsland Nature Reserve, with its famous hand-drawn population sign reading ‘Welcome to Cocklebiddy. Population: 8. Budgies: 25. Quails: 7. Dogs: 1. Kangaroos: 1,234,567’. Mundrabilla Roadhouse (08 9039 3465), where the mercury touched 49.8°C in 1979, and The Madura Roadhouse (08 9039 3464), 116km west, offer hearty fare as readily as fuel—and a pair of phone numbers that illustrate the area’s isolation. The Tjukayirla Roadhouse (tjukayirlaroadhouse.com.au) sits deep in the Great Victoria Desert on the Great Central Road. A stop on the longest

shortcut in Australia—the fabled Outback Way, stretching from Winton, Qld to Laverton, WA—Tjukayirla is located 300km east of Laverton, where you’ll find Alan and Serena perpetually up for a yarn. Back on the Eyre, Balladonia is a pimple on the map—appropriately, the name is an Aboriginal word for ‘big rock by itself’. The area gained unlikely global fame in 1979 when the US$2.2 billion Skylab space station, quite rudely, landed on it. You can still see bits of the debris at The Balladonia Roadhouse, 385km southeast of Kalgoorlie, just before the 90 Mile Straight, one of the world’s longest stretches of road without a turn. Oh, and there’s also a bar with

local and imported beer, Sandleford wines and ‘à la carte fare with an Aussie twist’. (balladoniahotelmotel.com.au)

VICTORIA Slim Dusty released over 100 albums in his career, but sadly, many of the iconic Aussie places he helped immortalise have since closed (Sydney’s Town & Country Hotel, where Slim would “love to have a beer with Duncan”, for example, has shuttered its doors). Most of Victoria’s roadhouses are much too leafy to qualify as Outback oases—like The Black Spur Inn, just 90 minutes from Melbourne (blackspurinn. com.au) and The Porepunkah Roadhouse,

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OUT OF THE BOX near the Falls Creek and Hotham snowfields (03 5756 2345)—but The Red Kangaroo Roadhouse in Beaufort (03 5349 3180) is worth mentioning if only for Slim’s ode to its $6 truckies breakfast, which he sang about in 1994. The Victorian institution powers on, with a typical truck-stop menu made better by real coffee (“You can keep your bran and your orange juice,” warbled Slim, “because I’m a hungry bloke”).

NEW SOUTH WALES Tourism ads for Australia’s most populous state rarely send their camera crews more than a stone’s throw from the Harbour Bridge—if they do, it’s usually in the direction of Bondi—but western NSW’s Packsaddle Roadhouse (packsaddleroadhouse.com.au), two-and-abit hours up the Silver City Highway from Broken Hill, loses nothing in comparison to its cross-border siblings. It’s a proper Outback hub—and, indeed, pub—with a rollicking, occasionally heaving bar (beware being ambushed by karaoke) run by red-dirt institutions Mia and Arnie Degumois.

NORTHERN TERRITORY Wild and willing NT has a string of famous roadhouses running in a (very roughly) straight line south from the game-fishing yarns spun at The Lodge of Dundee, on the Gulf and 140km east of Darwin (thelodgeofdundee.com.au), to The Erldunda (erldundaroadhouse. com) and Stuarts Well Roadhouses (stuartswellroadhouse.com.au), near Uluru. The latter is sadly no longer frequented

Hell’s Gate Roadhouse and its ingenious sign, which went viral online

by Dinky, a local, domesticated dingo who loved to sing along with the piano and even became the subject of a Trivial Pursuit question (Dinky’s arthritis, sadly, eventually became too much). Even in the days of GPS and satellite phones, it’s possible to worry that you’re lost in the middle of nowhere in Central Australia. And while Stuart Highway’s Ti-Tree Roadhouse, ‘the most central pub in Australia’, (08 8956 9741) is close to it, if you are really dead centre, you’re likely closer to Tennant Creek’s Threeways Roadhouse (threewaysroadhouse.com.au). Expect Outback grub—meaning basic, and at a price, but with portions worthy of a hungry cattleman—with a big Aussie breakfast available from 6–10am and a bar that, worryingly, opens from 9am–11pm. The Threeways feels like a genuine throwback, happily crammed with proper truckies and yet it’s come a long way since the 1960s, when it kicked off selling fuel to Outback desperadoes from 44-gallon drums.

QUEENSLAND The vast distances of Central Queensland are the natural habitat of

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the roadhouse, but just as impressive are those leading—like the convoy that begins over the page—to ‘the Tip’. Those include The Musgrave Roadhouse (musgraveroadhouse.com.au), five hours from Cooktown, a former ad hoc stockade in the Frontier Wars, The Archer River Roadhouse (07 4060 3266) and Bramwell Junction Roadhouse, which is located on a working 132,000 hectare cattle station (bramwellstationcapeyork.com.au). Also on the Gulf, but just over 50km east of the QLD/NT border and 173km west of Burketown—home of the rolling, awe-inspiring ‘Morning Glory’ cloud—the Hell’s Gate Roadhouse in Nicholson (07 4745 8258) was once a legendary drover’s landmark in pioneer-era Queensland. It’s only open during the dry season (April to Sep/Oct) and has leafy camping facilities and fire pits, as well as basic food and a properly laconic Outback vibe. In fact, one Hell’s Gate sign became mildly internet famous after being photographed by a visitor. It read: ‘Snakes! Lights attract insects. Insects attract frogs. Frogs attract snakes. SNAKES BITE! Turn off lights, Flying Doctors are 2hrs away”.

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TRAVELLER

by Robyne Gruzlewski

TIPPING POINT

THE

Guides Stan and Robyne Gruzlewski have four hard-won decades of 4WD experience touring to the very tip of Cape York. Why not follow their lead?

M

y husband Stan and I run Finally Going, a 4WD adventure travel company. We have completed more than 70 trips to the Cape over a 40-year period. We travel all over Australia, but the Cape and the Simpson Desert are perhaps closet to our hearts—and our specialties. Our first trip with an Isuzu was in 2010, when we had the pleasure of taking a standard D-MAX to the northernmost tip of Australia. With just our clothes—no tent, no trailer and no map—off we went. We took our first trip of this season in May and Stan was lucky enough to go up in a MU-X. With the unseasonal wet weather in the north this year it made the trip an extremely testing one for both car and drivers. Which was great fun! Weather conditions improved for our second trip in June but the corrugations had doubled, so the MU-X got a good workout this time. If you’d like to follow our lead, hopefully this road trip travel diary will help you along. Good luck!

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Mareeba We met our group and started our journey in Mareeba, an hour west of Cairns on the Atherton Tableland, where the welcome sign proclaims that “we get 300 sunny days a year”. Our first stop was Palmer River Roadhouse in Lakeland, then Hann River Roadhouse in Laura for lunch. The road is tarred all the way to Laura with scattered sections from Laura to Coen Homestead, about 310km north of Lakeland. We recommend both Palmer River and Hann River Roadhouse for food and fuel stops (no LPG available). Mobile phones will work at Lakelands, Laura, Coen, Weipa, Bamaga—and yes, even on the tip of Australia—provided you have Telstra coverage.

Coen to Weipa With an early start leaving Coen, we headed 65km north to the Archer River Roadhouse, where fuel and food is available. The road here is mostly corrugated, so get ready to rattle! Just past the roadhouse you cross a causeway. Back in May, just a day after Stan had crossed it, the water level rose to 2.5m, flooding the area, so be warned: always check weather conditions as the weather and water levels can change deadly fast. On the way to Weipa, it’s worth taking a detour to Lockhart River, 20km north of the Archer River. Cross the new causeway

over the Wenlock River, then turn immediately to the left and you’ll be at the ruins of the Batavia Gold Mine, which produced half a tonne of gold from 1896 until it closed in 1904. It’s worth exploring. It’s a mostly dirt road leaving the goldmines for the 170km back towards Weipa. Once you arrive in the bauxitemining hub, however, you can relax. It’s easy to spend three or four days in the area. Weipa has excellent fishing, and charter tours, boat hire and even mine tours can be organised from the caravan


park. The caravan park is the only area where camping is permitted, although assorted accommodation is also available throughout the town.

Weipa to Bramwell Junction Our first stop on this leg is Moreton Telegraph Station, about 135km from Weipa and just north of the Wenlock Bridge. The road is still mostly dirt, but it’s well graded and holds few fears. Leaving Moreton, a further 35km north brings you to Bramwell Junction, where

fuel, food and camping is available. This is also the start of the fabled Telegraph Track.

Bramwell Junction to ‘The Tip’ The Telegraph Track to Fruit Bat Falls can take anywhere from one to three days; the area is very susceptible to change from month to month. When Stan went in May the water level was so high it went well over the bonnet of the vehicles. A faster but less fun way is reaching Fruit Bat Falls via the Bamaga Development Road, which takes around three hours.

It’s mostly unsealed but still good to drive, even though there are patches of very rough corrugations. A further 5km north of Fruit Bat is Eliot Falls. A warning here: there is a long creek crossing between both falls, which is so murky that drivers hesitate to walk it. Fruit Bat and Eliot are very popular for swimming in the rockpools, which is the best way to experience their unique waterfalls. Camping is available at Eliot only by prebooking with National Parks, while Fruit Bat is day visit only.

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TRAVELLER

The trip from Eliot Falls to the Jardine River Ferry via the Telegraph Track is around three hours, but please note: you must take the first turn off to the left while on the track to get back onto the Development Road. If you miss this turnoff you’ll end up at Nolan’s Brook, a crossing with extreme conditions that has claimed many vehicles! The ferry costs $99 per car, $129 for a car with a trailer and $39 for a motorbike. This cost includes camping on the Injinoo land (but not including campgrounds, which incurs a further fee). Once off the Jardine Ferry it’s 40km to Seisia, which has great fishing and many places to stay. We choose to stay in Seisia itself as it is situated near the wharf where the fishing—and watching the action—is amazing. There are also camping grounds in Loyalty, Punsand Bay and Umagico. All are equally beautiful and have their own unique appeal.

Seisia to Cape York The trip from Seisia to ‘The Tip’ is 35km. On the way you pass ‘the Croc Tent’, a must-stop to visit Lea Ann for a chinwag and some unique souvenirs. Driving to Cape York provides many

Above: move this sign to Byron Bay and you’ll confuse thousands of tourists; Below: where the land mass ends, the islands begin

MUST SEE SPOTS AROUND THE CAPE If you’re planning a trip to The Tip, these great places are tops.

Somerset and the Five Beaches Follow the signs to Somerset. The road is in excellent condition all the way to Fly Point. Five Beaches is still fairly difficult, but well worth seeing. The round trip takes two hours.

Vrilya Point About 25km south of the Jardine River turn to the right (off Bamaga Road). After 5km is Crystal Creek. Note: the bridge is unpassable and has been closed for two years.

adventures, as well as the chance to touch the most famous sign of all: ‘You are standing at the northernmost point of the Australian continent’!

Up for the challenge With more than 70 trips to the Cape under our belts, and 40 years experience doing so, Stan and I both agree that the MU-X is the best 4WD we’ve ever taken to The Tip. This is a big statement, I know, but one we fully stand by. Fully loaded in May and towing a small trailer with a load on the roof racks, the D-MAX travelled 7510km from the Gold Coast to Cape York and back. It used 800L of fuel in very heavy road conditions and utterly abominable weather. The MU-X we took in June was stockstandard, with no aftermarket accessories. It travelled 8478km from the Gold Coast to Cape York return, using just 623L of fuel! It was near-new, so fuel consumption will only improve with use.

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Usser Point A good 65km off the Banaga Road sign post. The track starts off OK but then gets messy. There is camping here but be sure to prebook through National Parks. Beachcombing is pristine and amazing.

Henderson River Turn off 6km before Usser Point, follow the track for 16km, then veer to the right. There is limited camping under the trees and beach camping is extreme and open to the elements, but this is one of the most beautiful inlets on the Cape.

Captain Billy Just 35km off Bamaga Road, Captain Billy is well marked. Prebook at National Parks for a camping permit.

Cox’s Crossing on the Jardine River A beautiful camp site, but again, prebook at National Parks to camp.

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UNSUNG HEROES

by Ben Smithurst

CARMINE

CAPUTO “W

hen I was 17 I had a young cousin die in a car accident. This triggered my depression and I was on and off medication for about 13 years. I was afraid to fall asleep at night; sometimes I thought it would be better if I just never woke up again. I thought my time was running out and I had to do everything as quickly as I could. I joined the Army Reserve, I jumped out of aeroplanes, changed jobs frequently, bought a house, new car, two motorbikes, but nothing worked: I still didn’t feel fulfilled. I found a way to function by going to work and staying busy but it was just a distraction. My life was about not being on my own and never having stillness or silence to be alone with negative thoughts. To fall asleep, I needed loud noise—it was just unbearable. You get tired, you don’t eat well, you drink too much. I was self-medicating with alcohol, too much sugar and unhealthy foods. I was 112kg—and I’m only 175cm tall. Then when I was 30 I sought out a clairvoyant who said they saw my cousin and grandfather. That started to provide some relief from my depression and anxiety; from the thought that you’ve only got one life and that I had to do everything today. I went on a journey of what I suppose you’d call self-discovery. I went through selfhelp workshops, books, CDs and DVDs, and integrated a lot of wellness techniques into my life. I found that I felt better and over time I was able to get off medication. I understood that I had a negative voice in my head, but I could quieten it down by

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The one-time Defence Department forensic analyst battled depression for decades. Now he travels the country in his D-MAX on a mission to help others

being more conscious about the thoughts that I chose and the way that I lived. I came out as gay at 30 as well, which was also a process of self-acceptance. Then at 33 I had a health scare: a couple of lumps were discovered on my thyroid, which were benign. But I didn’t know that—they suspected the lumps could be cancerous. I spent 12 weeks waiting for test results. At the time, I was doing battle damage assessment for the Department of Defence on vehicles that had been blown up overseas.

“People might not want to meditate, but they want to be happy, and they want to live a life that’s meaningful.” I thought it was my dream job. But then I thought, ‘I could be dead in six months; what am I doing with my life?’” I took a voluntary redundancy, sold my house in Adelaide and wrote and selfpublished a book, Change Your Vibration, about my journey. I went to Chicago to speak about it. Then I spent a couple of years undoing my life and all my commitments; letting go of everything in order to buy the

ute, buy the caravan and travel Australia. I’d decided to do what I’m doing now: spend 14 months helping people with mentalhealth issues and see the country. I’m 39. I decided I wanted to help 2500 people. I’d been to an R U OK? Day seminar and they said that in the previous year, 2361 Australians had committed suicide. That number shocked me. I decided that if I could possibly do something to help others, I’d try to reach out to 2500. I keep tally by testimonials I receive, saying things like, “I’ve met Carmine, I bought a book, I went to a workshop, or I met him in the caravan park and spent a few days with him, and because of that I’ve improved the quality of my life”. And hopefully they’re now living their dreams. Every time I get one, I cry. It’s an ambitious number. That’s for a reason: it makes me work and reach out and continue to aim towards that goal. I never used to believe in clairvoyants or reiki or crystals or life after death or anything like that. My job was rooted in science—facts and data; travelling to Afghanistan to collect evidence. Then it started happening to me and I couldn’t deny it anymore. But it doesn’t matter if people aren’t open to the spiritual side. I find people by word-of-mouth, via social media … and, surprisingly, just by explaining my story to people I come across. The people I work with, if they’ve got some issues and they want to change and they want me to help, what I can do is basically talk in their language. The metaphysical doesn’t have to come into it. At a workshop, we will do a life review; find something that was previously painful and


Five wellness tips FROM CARMINE

something they’re grateful for, simple things like writing gratitude lists, acknowledging and releasing fears. The core function is to help people let go of their baggage so they can have a second chance at living their life. I ask the Tattslotto question: ‘Within the context of not having to work to earn money and also within the context of providing a service or helping people, what would you do with your time if you didn’t have to work?’ Often people have a secret little dream that they’ve always wanted to do, but they’re

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afraid that they can’t make it happen. So what I can do is ask questions—I don’t need cards, or to talk to angels, ha!—and we work out what gives their life meaning. Then we work out a practical management plan, where they do the work and they can see that their dreams are coming true. I’ve suffered, and when you see other people suffering, you’re just compelled to want to help them. People might not want to meditate but they want to be happy and live a life that’s meaningful.”

• It’s okay to talk about your mental health. One conversation could change your life. • Integrate a ‘happy hour’ into every day. Don’t wait until tomorrow to be happy. • Live a balanced life. Spend time with family and friends, your hobbies, personal growth and alone time. I was so busy working 13-hour days that I wasn’t doing anything else. • Take one step to improve the quality of your life. Decide to put in the work that you need to do, then celebrate once you’ve achieved it. • Have hope that recovery is possible. And follow your heart.

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THE LIST

by Gregor Stronach

WALK THIS WAY From short hops to multi-day treks, Australia’s got it all when it comes to bushwalks

Australia boasts some of the best walking tracks in the world, as rich and diverse as the landscapes they bisect. There are thousands of established trails around the country, each waiting to be tackled with little more than sturdy

footwear on your pegs, a pack on your back and trail mix in your pocket. From the heart of our capital cities to some of the most remote tracks in the world, there’s something for everyone. Stroll through this list of some

of the best bushwalks Australia has to offer, from one-hour to multi-day treks, and suitable for beginners, through to intimidatingly tough tracks for serious adventurers. Be sure to tell someone where you’re going, then tally ho!

NEW SOUTH WALES

The Spit-to-Manly, Sydney Harbour Best for: A unique view of the world’s greatest harbour The bushwalks around Sydney Harbour are some of the Emerald City’s bestkept secrets, with a number of wellmaintained tracks along the shoreline available for walkers. The Spit-to-Manly walk takes in the sights of Middle Harbour, with side trips available to Grotto Point and the spectacular Arabanoo Lookout available if you’ve got the time to explore. Length: 9.1km, one-way Duration: 3–4 hours Difficulty: 2.5/5 stars More: bestsydneywalks.com

Six Foot Track, Katoomba, NSW Best for: A true wilderness weekend Located in the Blue Mountains, about an hour’s drive west of Sydney, the Six Foot Track is a multi-day walk through some of the most iconic mountain scenery New South Wales has to offer. The track begins in Katoomba, and winds its way along an historic horse trail to the spectacular Jenolan Caves. Along the way, walkers get to explore sites such as Nellie’s Glen, Cox’s River

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Blue Mountains, New South Wales

and the lush, and excellently named, Megalong Valley. Length: 44.8km, one-way Duration: 2 days Difficulty: 4/5 stars More: bluemts.com.au

VICTORIA

Great Walhalla Alpine Trail, Walhalla Best for: Wintertime snow hiking Kicking off from the historic Walhalla township, this track offers walkers the chance to explore some of Australia’s finest alpine scenery, including the snow gum glades on the Baw Baw Plateau and the tops of Talbot Peak and Mt Erica. It’s a tableau of wild rivers, towering

mountain ash, peekaboo fauna and unique rock formations. This track is also the two-day starting section of the epic Australian Alpine Walking Track, a 650km, six- to eight-week journey that isn’t for the faint-hearted. A guided tour, including a fully catered campsite, is available through the Mt Baw Baw Alpine Resort. Length: 40km, one-way Duration: 2 days Difficulty: 3.5/5 stars More: greatwalhallaalpinetrail.com

Great Ocean Walk, Apollo Bay Best for: Epic vistas The Great Ocean Walk is a multi-day trek that takes in some of southern Victoria’s most incredible coastal scenery.


Great Ocean Walk, Victoria

The track begins at Apollo Bay and stretches 100km to the west to reach the rock formation once known as the Sow and Pigs, but which is now called the Twelve Apostles. The grading of the track gets progressively more difficult and the walk can be broken up into several parts, with accommodation options just off the track ranging from sleeping under canvas through to comfy, high-quality B&Bs. Length: 100km, one way Duration: 4–5 days Difficulty: 4/5 stars More: greatoceanwalk.com.au

QUEENSLAND

Carnarvon National Park is about 600km northwest of Brisbane in central Queensland. It’s home to Carnarvon Gorge, aka the ‘Green Canyon’, Australia’s own version of the Grand Canyon. There are a number of trails through the area, but the most popular is a 10km section that takes in all the key sites of interest along the gorge, including a stunning array of indigenous sites, with rock art dating back thousands of years. Length: 10km, return Duration: single day Difficulty: 2.5/5 stars More: blog.queensland.com/2015/03/20/ best-hikes-carnarvon-gorge

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Mount Remarkable Summit Hike, Mount Remarkable National Park Perfect for: An easy family day out Mount Remarkable National Park is located between Port Augusta and Point Pirie, within easy reach of Adelaide, and home to a moderately challenging hike to the summit for which the park is named. Popular with families, it’s an easy day trip to see the sights of the Willochra Plain and out to the Spencer Gulf from the 960m peak of the mountain. Length: 13.8km return Duration: 5 hours Difficulty: 2.5/5 stars More: walkingsa.org.au © Tourism WA

The Gold Coast Hinterland Great Walk Perfect for: Avoiding theme parks

Carnarvon National Park Perfect for: Exploring the Outback

Gold Coast Hinterland Great Walk, Queensland

The Gold Coast Hinterland Great Walk is a three-day trek through one of the largest areas of subtropical rainforest in the world, inside the Lamington and Springbrook National Parks. Highlights of the track include the opportunity to walk the rim of the Tweed Volcano, complete with numerous waterfalls and all the wildlife you’d expect from the lush rainforest surrounds. Length: 54km, one way Duration: 3 days Difficulty: 4/5 stars More: queensland.com/journey/goldcoast-hinterland-great-walk

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Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, Northern Territory

THE LIST

Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail Perfect for: A rugged adventure The splendid beauty of Kangaroo Island makes it a world-renowned tourist destination and provides a backdrop to one of the greatest bushwalks South Australia has to offer. This five-day trail follows the southwestern coastline of the island, with several side trails to other highlights, such as Admirals Arch and the aptly named Remarkable Rocks. Length: 72km, one way Duration: 5 days Difficulty: 3/5 stars More: walkingsa.org.au

great trails leaving from the base of the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse, which stands tall on a 100m bluff, overlooking Geographe Bay. Truly breathtaking—and not just if you’ve been neglecting your cardio. Length: 4km, loop Duration: 1–3 hours Difficulty: 1.5/5 stars More: parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au

Uluru-Kata Tjuta NP, Northern Territory.

East Fitzgerald National Park Perfect for: Solitude and space For a more difficult coastal walk, the Hakea Walk Trail in the East Fitzgerald National Park is regarded by many as one of the very best WA has to offer. Highlights of the walk include a number of beaches, where walkers are almost guaranteed to have the entire sky and a seemingly untouched Earth to themselves, along with some of the striking geological features WA’s Golden Outback region is known for. Length: 23km, one way Duration: 11 hours / overnight Difficulty: 4/5 stars More: trailswa.com.au/trails/hakeawalk-trail

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Cape Naturaliste Track, Dunsborough, Perfect for: Soaking up history This easy, family-friendly walk will take you out to the top of Cape Naturaliste, within the confines of the LeeuwinNaturaliste National Park, a short drive from Bunbury, WA. The area is rich in maritime history and tragedy—and famous surf spots—with

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NORTHERN TERRITORY

The Valley of the Winds, Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park Perfect for: Dreamtime stories

Located 32 kilometres west of Uluru, Kata Tjuta (formerly known as The Olgas) offers walkers the chance to explore some of the most remote terrain in central Australia.


most photographed mountain may sound like a challenge best left for experienced climbers, but this track makes reaching the peak reasonably easy. The walk offers stunning views of Cradle Mountain from across Dove Lake, as well as wildlife-spotting opportunities. Be warned: it gets busy during peak tourism times, and there is a fair amount of rock scrambling required to pass the huge dolomite boulders that litter the side of the mountain. But that view! Length: 14.9km loop Duration: 5.5 hours Difficulty: 4/5 stars More: trailhiking.com.au/cradlemountain-tasmania

Freycinet Circuit, Freycinet National Park Perfect for: The world’s best coastline

Cradle Mountain, Tasmania

The track is called the Valley of the Winds, due to the constant movement of air through the 36 spectacular sandstone domes that make up the site. They provide ample opportunity for wildlife spotting, as well as incredible photography and a rich indigenous history dating back 40,000 years—or perhaps much, much longer. Unmissable. Length: 7.4km, loop Duration: 4 hours Difficulty: 3.5/5 stars More: parksaustralia.gov.au/uluru/do/ bush-walking.html

Bardedjilidji Sandstone Walk, Kakadu National Park, NT Perfect for: Wildlife photography One of the most popular walks in the Ubirr region of Kakadu National Park, this trail takes hikers through a range of towering

sandstone pillars, explores an ancient vine forest and offers an up-close look at the region’s spectacular paperbark woodland areas. It’s well-named: ‘Bardedjilidji’ means ‘pathway’ in the local indigenous dialect. As always in this part of Australia, carry water, stick to the marked trails, and try not to irritate the deadlier forms of wildlife. Length: 2.5km Duration: 2 hours Difficulty: 1.5/5 stars More: parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/ walks.html

Widely regarded as the premier coastal walk in Tasmania, this circuit provides hikers with the chance to explore some of the most pristine coastline in the world. With stops at beautiful locations such as Wineglass Bay and Hazard Beach, there are also a number of worthy side trails to explore, including the walk to the peak of Mount Freycinet, which offers unparalleled views all the way out to the distant Maria Island. Length: 31km circuit Duration: 2–3 days Difficulty: 3/5 stars More: tastrails.com/freycinet-circuit

Wineglass Bay, Tasmania

TASMANIA

Cradle Mountain, Cradle MountainLake St Clair National Park Perfect for: Testing your climbing skills Climbing to the summit of Tasmania’s

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HOOK, LINE ‘N’ SINKER

by Andrew Hart

The Producer Hosting a TV fishing show comes with many perks, and lots of new toys. Andrew Hart and Nick Duigan christen their brand new boat, but rue the one that got away

I

t was toward the end of April by the time our new boat was ready to pick up, and the anticipation was killing us. One of our good Hook, Line and Sinker sponsors, Bar Crusher boats, had been busy constructing us a new 7.3m hard top—one very serious trailer boat! We arrived at the Bar Crusher factory just out of Melbourne early in the morning with our D-MAX ready to tow her off in search of adventure. We’d named the new boat ‘The Producer’ and her black hull was glistening in the morning sun. What a sight!

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With big outriggers standing proud and an impressive Yamaha f250 on the back, our girl looked like she was ready for battle. We’d hatched a plan and before we knew it we were in the D-MAX on a long tow across the border into southern NSW and the gorgeous fishing town of Bermagui. We were hoping for some warm currents to still be pushing past the coast, with dreams of The Producer’s first catch being a marlin or big tuna. But it wasn’t to be. The water wide of the town was green and cold. We needed a Plan B. Luckily, the Yellowtail Kingfish at Montague Island had been biting fairly consistently in the week before we arrived in town. So the next morning we took the tie-downs off our brand new boat and slid her in the water. There are few better feelings. It was a calm, sunny dawn and we made a quick stop on the way to Montague Island to catch some live bait. Therefore, the very first fish to come over the side of The Producer was … a slimy mackerel, weighing all of about 200

grams. Not a marlin or a huge tuna, but we figured that, like Paul Kelly and Kev Carmody sang, from little things, big things grow. With a live-bait tank full of slimies, we arrived at the Island just before a morning tide change. Using our brand new sounder and very cool electric motor, which lives on the bow of the Bar Crusher, we were able to position ourselves right over the top of what we figured to be Kingfish. The action was hot and pretty soon we’d filmed enough for an episode, catching Kings up to about eight kilos. They are a great fish to catch and pretty much tick all the boxes: they fight hard, they look good and they taste great. The Producer was christened, but we still wanted something bigger so we loaded up the boat and hit the road again. The D-MAX pulled The Producer without any trouble, which is what we needed because we towed it all the way back to Melbourne and put it on a ship. We collected her in Burnie, Tasmania, and towed it another few hundred kilometres to Eaglehawk Neck.


They’re big boys, but Nick and Andrew do love their toys. Below left: Andrew has his hands firmly grasped on dinner

We fished the day after one of the biggest storms to ever hit the state. Half of Tassie was flooded, while the other half had been smashed by huge winds and waves. When we launched the next morning the swell was still big but we were pleased that at least the wind had dropped. The sea was uncomfortable and pretty soon a few us of lost our breakfast over the side. We headed straight for the Hypolyte Rocks, saw some birds and some seals all balled up together and trolled our tuna lures right through the middle. This was The Producer’s chance and sure enough a rod started to scream and it was clear this was the big fish we wanted.

With big outriggers standing tall and an impressive Yamaha f250 on the back, our girl looked like she was ready for battle. Cameras were rolling and the fight was epic. The fish surged through many long, powerful runs and after about an hour it looked like we were going to get a chance to land it. When the Bluefin appeared it was well over 100kg – and was just metres away. But that’s where this story ends. The line broke for no real reason at all

and the big tuna just swam away. I guess that’s fishing. There’s still much more to do with The Producer and plans are already in place to once again hitch her up to the D-MAX this summer and go in search of monster fish on a road trip over four states. We can’t wait.

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REFUEL

HOME

& AWAY

Two brilliant summer meals from MasterChef graduate, Ben’s Menu TV chef and MU-X owner, Ben Milbourne

“I

have been lucky enough to be exposed to some of the best food that Australia has to offer,” says Ben Milbourne, one of the brightest stars yet to emerge from the culinary juggernaut that is MasterChef. “So if it’s about finding the best produce available, I really couldn’t live in a better place.” That place is Tasmania, an island once routinely left off maps of Australia, much to the annoyance of famous Taswegians such as Boonie and Errol Flynn. But however long our southernmost state spent in the shade, it’s now perhaps the nation’s premier foodie destination. From mussels to cool-climate wines and artisanal spirits, game to truffles, and dairy to trout, few places offer such a combination of variety and quality as the isle at the bottom of this former convict colony. It’s no surprise, then, that 4WD enthusiast and kitchen savant Ben Milbourne made his way back to his home state

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after getting his start as a culinary star. The charismatic host of Ben’s Menu (4pm weekdays, Channel 10) has released one cookbook themed around Tasmania’s food trails and another around Mexican grub. And he’s now branched out, naturally enough, into providing bespoke boutique food tours of Tasmania’s stunning North West Coast. This month, however, when even the Apple Isle reached shorts weather, Ben turned his hand to a pair of recipes to suit the season. If you’re at home with prep time to burn and a pantry full of possibilities, Ben recommends a rich, refreshing Balinese red curry. If you’re camping, and perhaps wetting a line, there’s a simpler option in Mediterranean Stripy Trumpeter, a Tassie favourite (if you’re further afield, you can substitute a different species—see recipe ingredients, right). It’s simple, really—like most great grub: “Start with the best produce you can find,” Ben says, “and don’t stuff it up”.

MEDITERRANEAN STRIPY TRUMPETER Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 25 minutes Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS 1 whole side Stripy Trumpeter (you can substitute any firmflesh fish, such as barramundi or snapper) 1 fennel, finely sliced 5 slices of lemon 1/4 red onion, finely sliced 5 green olives, finely sliced 10 cherry tomatoes, cut in half 5 sprigs of chives, roughly chopped 1/4 bunch dill Salt to taste

METHOD Step 1: Place the fish on a sheet of foil lined with baking paper. Scatter the rest of the ingredients over the fish. Place another piece of foil lined with baking paper on top of the fish and crimp the edges creating a parcel. Place on hot plate and cook for 25 to 30 minutes depending on the size of the fish. Step 2: Eat.


BALINESE BEEF RED CURRY INGREDIENTS 1 tbsp oil 1 kg gravy beef, diced 3cm 1 brown onion, diced 1 red chili, finely sliced 1 garlic, finely diced 2cm ginger, finely diced 1 tbsp ground turmeric 4 tbsp soy sauce

Prep time: 20 minutes Cook time: 2 hours Serves: 4

½ cup kecap manis 5 kaffir lime leaves 2 cups chicken stock 1 lemongrass, cut in half, bruised   1 cup coconut cream ½ cup cashews To serve: Jasmine rice 1 bunch coriander

METHOD Step 1: Brown beef in large pot. Remove and set aside. Step 2:  Sauté onion, chili, garlic and ginger for 5 minutes or until aromatic.  Add turmeric, soy sauce, kecap manis, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass and stock. Return beef to pan, cover and simmer for 1.5 hours. Step 3: Remove lid, add coconut cream, cashews and cook for a further 30 minutes without lid to reduce sauce. Serve with rice and coriander for garnish.

FIND OUT MORE Visit benmilbourne.com.au for more recipes and cookbooks, as well as links to Ben’s food tours, degustation dinners and cooking school.

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FLASHBACK

1999 ISUZU TROOPER

The Isuzu Trooper was a smooth-riding, highly capable sport-utility vehicle produced between 1981 and 2002. It was exported internationally under several monikers including the ‘Bighorn’ (Japan), ‘Caribe 442’ (Venezuela), and Acura SLX (USA) – and although it wasn’t sold here with an Isuzu badge, many of you will remember it as the Jackaroo. The Trooper began as a rather basic and somewhat underpowered on- and off-road vehicle, offered only with a four-cylinder motor, four-speed manual transmission and part-time four-wheel drive. But then in 1998 Isuzu upped the ante, dropping in a new 3.5-litre V6, as well as adding its torque-on-demand (TOD) four-wheel-drive system. The Trooper’s motorsport pedigree is well documented, with our own Bruce Garland winning the Australian Safari behind the wheel of one—five times!

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