GO YOUR OWN WAY ISSUE 23
EYRESUPPLY The world’s your oyster in Coffin Bay, on South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula
SAND BANDIT
The man who visited every beach in Australia
THE KIMBERLEY’S GIBB RIVER ROAD
Red dirt and giant skies
SNOW GO ZONES
Where to head when the white stuff arrives
CAMPER TRAILERS FROM
$6999 / $41 PER WEEK VISIT OUR WEB SITE TO FIND YOUR NEAREST STORE OR TO SPEAK WITH ONE OF OUR CAMPER TRAILER EXPERTS
AUSTRALIA’S BEST VALUE CAMPER TRAILERS
NATIONAL DEALERSHIP
NETWORK
23 BRANCHES AUSTRALIA WIDE
CALL NOW 1300 667 868 OR VISIT MARSCAMPERS.COM.AU
#MARSCAMPERS
CONTENTS
S I H T IN
E U ISS FEATURES
14
Inside Line: Ross Stone The Supercars legend talks about Isuzu’s entry into the all-action Aussie SuperUtes Series.
32
18
COVER STORY
The Kimberley Abandoning the bitumen for the Gibb River Road is a unique Outback adventure—and you’ve got just the rig for it.
36
High and whitey Pack your mittens and polish the huskie, it’s our wintertime guide to the most family-friendly ski fields in the country.
2
max*d
Coffin Bay There’s a lot more to the southern tip of South Australia’s breathtaking Eyre Peninsula than just worldclass oysters. Come on a guided I-Venture tour.
UP FRONT 06 Readers’ Rides Be inspired by tales of adventure from Australia’s intrepid D-MAX and MU-X community. Been going your own way? Let us know!
10 Wishlist Perfect portable camp stoves for a freshly cooked, piping hot feed in the back of beyond.
12 Tech Head The Traction Control System in your D-MAX or MU-X is a lifesaver on tarmac, but it’s also got your back off road.
MIDDLE GROUND 26 The man who’s visited every beach in Australia IMPORTANT NOTICE Subscribe now to receive future editions!
SUBSCRIBE / CHANGE OF ADDRESS / REMOVAL FROM MAILING LIST To ensure you receive your next edition of max*d magazine in the format (print or digital) that best suits you, and to make sure we have your most up-to-date contact details, please visit isuzuute.com.au/subscribe
Brad Farmer made it his mission to travel to every accessible strip of sand in the country—often by 4WD.
40 Unsung Hero Meet Western Port Bay Flotilla Commander Jeremy West.
42 Hook, Line & Sinker The boys’ lap of the continent continues, hooking barra in the Top End—from the roadside.
44 Refuel Fine dining is lovely, but what about delicious no-nonsense fare in an instant? We’ve got you.
47 Flashback The Isuzu i-Series.
OUTBACK 48 Dealer List Find your Isuzu UTE dealer.
max*d
3
GO YOUR
OWN WAY GET OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN THE 3-LITRE, 430Nm, 6-SPEED ISUZU D-MAX & MU-X The Isuzu D-MAX and MU-X are stand out performers on or off-road. With the legendary Isuzu 3-litre turbo diesel engine, 430Nm of torque and an intuitive 6-speed transmission across the range. Coupled with a Terrain Command 4WD system and outstanding towing capacity, the D-MAX and MU-X have everything you need for any adventure. GO YOUR OWN WAY! Discover the Isuzu D-MAX & MU-X at your local Isuzu UTE Dealer or isuzuute.com.au
5-star ANCAP safety rating on all MU-X models & 4x4 D-MAX Crew Cab models built from November 2013 onwards & 4x2 D-MAX Crew Cab High Ride models built from November 2014 onwards. ^6 years/150,000km (whichever occurs first), for Eligible Vehicles with a Warranty Start Date on or after 1/1/19. Excludes trays & accessories. <6 years Roadside Assistance (unlimited kilometres) for Eligible Vehicles with a Warranty Start Date on or after 1/1/19. >The Capped Price Servicing Program (â&#x20AC;&#x153;CPS Programâ&#x20AC;?) applies to Eligible Vehicles at Participating Isuzu UTE Dealers only. For 19MY & later vehicle models, the Capped Price Servicing covers the first 7 Scheduled Services for up to 7 years/105,000km (whichever occurs first). CPS Program is subject to change. For full terms & conditions, current pricing & model eligibility visit isuzuute.com.au/service-plus-disclaimer.
WELCOME
WELCOME
to the 23rd edition of max*d magazine!
A
huge official ‘hello’! It is an absolute pleasure to introduce myself, Hiroyasu Sato, as the newly appointed Managing Director at Isuzu UTE Australia (IUA). I am excited to be penning the welcome for my first edition of max*d magazine for you. As a 25-year veteran of the automotive industry across international markets, I am very much looking forward to using my experience to help drive IUA forward into the future. But before I dive into what lies within this edition, I wanted to express my sincere gratitude to my predecessor, Mr Hiro Kuramoto, who was recently appointed to a new assignment in Japan. Without a doubt, Mr Kuramoto was instrumental in driving Isuzu UTE’s recent success, a monumental chapter earmarked by our 10th anniversary celebrations at the end of 2018. Now, it is my pleasure to look forward to the next phase. Turning the page on the past decade, we headline this chapter with our recent achievements: winning two of Australia’s premier Customer Satisfaction accolades by Roy Morgan. IUA is delighted to have received
the ‘2018 Car Manufacturer of the Year’ and the ‘2018 Best of the Best’ awards. For a long time, customer satisfaction has been a core focus of IUA and it is an absolute honour to be recognised in this area—recognition that stems directly from our highly valued customers. It is a truly humbling accomplishment and one that could not have come to fruition without our customers—so for that, we thank you. In March, our I-Venture Club ventured off the beaten track, through the forgotten sand dunes of the Eyre Peninsula coastline, South Australia. The three-day trip was an opportunity to not only brush up on essential off-roading techniques, but also to learn some new skills as they tackled rocky headlands, vast rolling sand dunes and stretches of beautiful beach. All accompanied, of course, by striking ocean views and the occasional dolphin putting on a show. A contingent of media joined us on the trip, retelling the adventure as witnessed through their eyes, behind the wheel of a D-MAX and MU-X. Of course, you will have the pleasure of living this trip vicariously through our Eyre Supply cover story feature on page 18. Fast-forward to May, where we officially welcomed our 2019 Model Year (19MY) D-MAX and MU-X range. Unveiled to the media in picturesque Torquay, Victoria, the 19MY range was put through its paces along the iconic Great Ocean Road and through the four-wheel drive Proving Ground of the Australian Automotive Research Centre. Alongside the 19MY range update—which features a variety of aesthetic refinements, MU-X exclusive steering recalibration and an improved Service Plus
Program—we unveiled the 19MY D-MAX X-RUNNER. A limited edition nameplate, the X-RUNNER was received well by the media, with its D-MAX LS-T derived features and equipment finishes accentuated by definitive X-RUNNER branding and red and grey styling. Headlining the 19MY updates was the introduction of an improved Service Plus 6-6-7, encompassing a six-year warranty, six years’ Roadside Assistance and seven years’ Capped Price Servicing. In terms of continuing that level of customer satisfaction, these improvements put us in a favourable position in the market. Feedback on our 19MY D-MAX, MU-X, X-RUNNER and improved Service Plus 6-6-7 program through the media has been extremely positive, reaffirming our place in the highly contested ute and SUV markets. Finally, we recently teamed up with motorsport legend, Ross Stone, and Caltex Australia to compete in the 2019 ECB SuperUtes Series. At the hands of Kiwi young gun, Tom Alexander, the #22 D-MAX SuperUte has collected its fair share of silverware, winning two races at the 2019 Pirtek Perth SuperNight. More of which is covered in our Inside Line feature within, starting on page 14. So with that, I’ll sign off for now and hope you enjoy the 23rd issue of max*d magazine. Be sure to let us know what you think!
Hiroyasu Sato Managing Director Isuzu UTE Australia maxd@iua.net.au
max*d
5
READERS’ RIDES
READERS’ RIDES
Pack your bags, go your own way—then tell us where you’ve been, and win! MARK, STEFANIE, ELIZA AND EDWARD WEBSTER LIVES: BERWICK, VIC DRIVES: 2015 MU-X 4X4 LS-T “Over the third term of school last year we scooped up the kids and headed off on our first half lap of Australia. We did Melbourne to Coober Pedy and Uluru, and all the way to Darwin, Litchfield and then Kakadu, before heading west through El Questro and Purnululu (the Bungle Bungles). Then we did Derby, Broome, up to Cape Leveque, down along the coast to Perth, then to Esperance, Kalgoorlie and home across the Nullabor! It was awesome and we can’t wait to do more! Our MU-X didn’t miss a beat over 15 weeks and a solid 20,000km. It performed beautifully, from towing our caravan up the Stuart Highway to making a rocky river crossing at El Questro at sunset to see the stunning view at Branko’s Lookout. This photo was taken on the banks of the Finke River, West MacDonnell National Park, where we free-camped with friends.”
DREW PEARCE LIVES: JINGILI, NT DRIVES: 2015 MU-X 4X4 LS-T “Our commercial diving company in Darwin, NT, needed a new vehicle. In our business the majority of our work is on a call-out basis, which means our crew and equipment requires reliability! In this harsh tropical environment we need to know we can grab the ute, throw gear and tools in it, hook up the boat and get the job done without drama! We’ve got enough to worry about between the crocs and the Irukandji jellyfish—and the Irukandji are worse than the crocs. Our D-MAX is tough and gets the job done every time.”
6
max*d
NICHOLAS BAYNE LIVES: BRASSALL, QLD / DRIVES: 2015 MU-X 4X4 LS-T “My MU-X experience began with my dad. Camping and fishing trips with him showed me how capable his vehicle was off the beaten track … and then, fast forward a few years and I was fortunate enough to buy it from him! Since then my Isuzu has been all over Australia. Mud holes in Tassie, snow in the Victorian High Country and river crossings in New South Wales. Since moving to Queensland it has been beaches galore and has never skipped a beat. Having been where I’ve been in my MU-X I look forward to exploring the rest of the country in such a capable vehicle.”
JENNA VAN DER VLIST LIVES: CANBERRA, ACT DRIVES: 2017 D-MAX 4X4 LS-M “My partner had a 2015 model D-MAX and we went fishing a lot. The more we went, the more I wanted to drive it … but the more he wouldn’t let me. Haha! So, having never owned a 4WD before, I traded my Commodore for a D-MAX in April 2018 and I wouldn’t change a thing. Within two days I had it in the snow! I’m an avid fly fisher and I’ve been up into the Brindabellas a few times, including Flea Creek and Mount Coree, and it’s just so capable. Water, dirt, snow—you name it. Anyway, my partner sold his D-MAX. He now has an MU-X!”
JASON RUSSELL LIVES: LITHGOW, NSW DRIVES: 2018 MU-X 4X2 LS-U “We were after a seven-seater because we have a growing family and we couldn’t go past the MU-X. I work for the police force and with my line of work you don’t always get time off over Christmas. So, once we’d picked it up, we decided that chasing the sun in our own backyard—in the Blue Mountains, NSW—was the next best thing. This was a quick trip up to Hassans Walls to look out over the Hartley Valley as the sun fell over the Great Dividing Range. Our MU-X gets us up to those tricky high places that provide a great spot to see one of the most beautiful parts of the country.”
SCORE A $100 GIFT CARD FROM OUR MATES AT BCF
Simply send us a high-resolution image and a 100-word blurb, along with your VIN, name, contact details, suburb and model of your D-MAX or MU-X, to maxd@iua.net.au
Featured Readers’ Rides will receive a $100 BCF Gift Card Disclaimer: Non-genuine aftermarket accessories and modifications are not recommended or endorsed by Isuzu UTE Australia. For detailed info on ‘what is’ and ‘what is not’ covered by the Manufacturer’s Warranty please refer to the Warranty and Service Booklet.
max*d
7
NEWS PUBLISHER Isuzu UTE Australia Pty Ltd ISUZU UTE AUSTRALIA MANAGING EDITORS Mark Harman, Madelaine Walsh maxd@iua.net.au EDITOR Ben Smithurst ben.smithurst@edge.agency SUB-EDITORS Paul Rodger and Jiyan Dessens ART DIRECTOR Guy Pendlebury ACCOUNT MANAGER Emma Rogers ADVERTISING SALES Chris Waite chris.waite@edge.agency MANAGING PARTNERS Fergus Stoddart, Richard Parker
max*d is published on behalf of Isuzu UTE Australia Pty Ltd by
Level 4, 10–14 Waterloo Street, Surry Hills NSW 2010 Phone: +61 2 8962 2600 edge.agency
Disclaimer: The information included in this magazine is intended for interest only. The opinions and views expressed in this magazine are provided in the writers’ personal capacities and are their sole responsibility. Their publication does not imply that they represent the views or opinions of Isuzu UTE Australia or Edge and must neither be regarded as constituting advice on any matter nor be interpreted as such. The reproduction of advertisements in this publication does not in any way imply endorsement by Isuzu UTE Australia or Edge of products or services referred to therein. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. A selection of the images featured in this publication has been sourced from Getty Images and Thinkstock Images. Business Essentials trading as Edge ABN 22 062 493 869.
max*d magazine is proudly printed in Australia using renewable resources. Hanno Gloss is an FSC Mixed Sources Certified paper, which ensures that all virgin pulp is derived from well-managed forests and controlled sources. It contains elemental chlorine-free bleached pulp and is manufactured by an ISO 14001 certified mill.
SGS-COC-003898
8
max*d
19MY Isuzu D-MAX and MU-X updated With a focus on maintaining the brand’s industry-leading levels of customer satisfaction, the 19MY D-MAX and MU-X range has been updated inside and out, matching refreshed aesthetics with an improvement to IUA’s Service Plus program. Service Plus has been revered as the benchmark for comprehensive ownership programs since its introduction in 2013. The updated scheme, called Service Plus 6-6-7, provides even greater peace of mind, encompassing a six-year/150,000km warranty, six years’ Roadside Assistance and seven-year/105,000km Capped Price Servicing. The improved Service Plus 6-6-7 coincides with the arrival of the refreshed 19MY D-MAX and MU-X range. The D-MAX range has received various updates to the exterior, including new 18-inch machined alloy wheels on LS-T models and new sidesteps on LS-U and LS-T variants. Swatches of matte black feature across the roof rails on LS-T models, on the radiator air intakes on various LS models and on the B-pillars of LS Crew Cab models. Much like the D-MAX, the 19MY MU-X range has received a slew of similar exterior tweaks and refinements, including a new front grille, new 18” machined alloy wheels on LS-U and LS-T models, and new interior trims and cabin ambient lighting on LS-T models. The hydraulic steering rack has been recalibrated across the MU-X range, improving steering weight and feel at low to medium speeds, while Blind Spot Monitoring and Rear Cross Traffic Alert are now available as optional accessories and can also be retrofitted to 17MY and 18MY variants.
Mighty Isuzu D-MAX joins the ECB SuperUtes Series Following the success of the SuperUtes Series’ inaugural year in 2018, Isuzu UTE Australia has partnered with Ross Stone Racing (RSR) and Caltex Australia to join the 2019 ECB SuperUtes Series. New Zealand driver Tom Alexander, 25, made the switch from his 2018 machine, a Holden Colorado, to pilot an Isuzu D-MAX SuperUte for 2019, with his famed #22 branded across the blue and white D-MAX livery. Speaking at the public unveiling of the D-MAX SuperUte at the Caltex Australia Lubricant Plant in Queensland in February, Ross Stone outlined his reasons for choosing the D-MAX, highlighting “its three-litre turbo diesel engine, proven durability, reliability and heat management under racing conditions”. With an uninterrupted string of podium placings from the beginning of the 2019 championship, Alexander tasted victory at the Perth SuperNight round, fighting hard to claim the event with a commanding performance across the weekend. At the time of writing, Alexander leads the series with six rounds remaining. At each start, Alexander’s Caltex Delo Racing SuperUte joins six rival brands of dual-cab utes on the grid, racing across eight Supercars Championship rounds as a support category.
NEWS
New 2019 Isuzu UTE Australia management structure With 10 years of continuous growth in the Australian market since its inception in 2008, Isuzu UTE Australia (IUA) has announced a new management structure with a focus on continued growth across the next decade. The new structure, introduced on April 1, 2019, sees a new Managing Director, Mr Hiroyasu Sato, join the team—the fourth across the brand’s local lifetime. Mr Sato, a 25-year veteran of the automotive industry across various countries and markets, is tasked to continue to drive IUA’s success towards the goal of 30,000 accumulative unit sales in 2020. He joins existing directors, Mr Takeshi Yasui (Parts and Accessories) and Mr Koichiro Yoshida (Sales, Marketing and Product Planning), alongside newly appointed Finance, IT, HR and Administration head, Mr Takuji Ozawa. IUA’s quartet of senior managers will continue to work as a team towards driving sustainable growth, as well as increasing customer satisfaction and retention.
Isuzu UTE Australia wins Customer Satisfaction Awards Isuzu UTE Australia has recently been awarded two of Australia’s premier Customer Satisfaction Awards by Roy Morgan—the ‘2018 Car Manufacturer of the Year’ and the ‘2018 Best of the Best’ award. Roy Morgan is Australia’s largest independent research company and one of the world’s most respected, with over 75 years’ experience in collecting objective, independent information on consumers. IUA achieved the highest customer satisfaction out of all 32 winners (96.1 per cent customer satisfaction score over the 12 months in 2018), further validating the brand’s commitment to delivering reliable and durable vehicles to our customers. IUA also took out the Automotive segment of the awards, with six consecutive monthly wins (July-December), to win the ‘2018 Car Manufacturer of the Year’ prize. IUA is looking forward to continuing to respond to customer feedback and deliver on improvements and expectations.
Limited Edition D-MAX X-RUNNER unveiled The iconic D-MAX X-RUNNER is back. Unveiled to Australia’s motoring press in April, the limited-edition model is available in two finishes—Pearl White (exclusive to X-RUNNER) and Magnetic Red. Sporting definitive design cues, the vehicle is based on the 19MY Isuzu D-MAX 4x4 LS-T and inherits a host of components usually reserved for the flagship model. These include a six-way electric driver’s seat, leather-accented upholstery, Passive Entry and Start System (PESS), Sat-Nav and 18-inch alloys. Topping the package are a host of Isuzu UTE Genuine Accessories, such as Rear Park Assist, under rail tub liner and a sports bar finished in satin black—as well as IUA’s improved Service Plus 6-6-7.
FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM
If you want to keep up with all things Isuzu UTE, make sure you’re following us on our social pages! facebook.com/isuzuute Instagram: @isuzuute_aus max*d
9
WISHLIST
KING CAMP STOVES OF
THE
Because there’s nothing better than a hot feed in the back of beyond WORDS GREGOR STRONACH
1
GASMATE ADVENTURER DELUXE DOUBLE BURNER PORTABLE BBQ
This is pretty much the gold standard for cooking in the bush. The Gasmate’s legs fold down for easy storage, so it’ll pack into the back of the ute without too much trouble, and it’s ideal for when you don’t want to cut corners. Its heavy duty, full cast iron plate and grill offers a proper BBQ experience and the high dome cover means you can throw on a leg of lamb for a Sunday roast in the middle of nowhere. Or a jumbuck, even, although it will presumably become less jolly the longer it’s over the heat. Just steer well clear of any billabongs. RRP $399.00, bcf.com.au
2
SPINIFEX 2 BURNER COMPACT STOVE
In need of a lightweight alternative? This two-burner compact from Spinifex folds out to provide a windbreak and packs down to a very portable 4.3kg (plus the weight of the butane canister). The finely machined heat controls mean you’re unlikely to go from “it’s nearly ready” to “it’s burnt to a crisp” if you lose concentration for a moment (“Bloody kids!”) and it’s small enough to move around easily. That’ll help you keep the flame from being blown about by the wind, should the weather change mid-cook. RRP $69.99, anaconda.com.au
3
WANDERER LPG PORTABLE STOVE WITH GRILL 2 BURNER
Up the serious end of the scale is this marvel of portable cooking. It’s essentially a twoburner backyard BBQ that folds down for easy storage in the back of the D-MAX or MU-X, with enough cooking power to Heston Blumenthal any combination of mammals you discover roadside. The spacious set-up means you can handle the protein and vegies separately, with all the control of a familiar LPG flame that you’re likely already used to. It will need the extra weight of an LPG cylinder in order to run, but if that’s not an issue, then this is your go-to for cooking under the stars. RRP $179.99, bcf.com.au
4
GASMATE TRAVELMATE II BUTANE STOVE
If travelling light is your thing, then this is among the best options in terms of bang for your buck. It’s small, lightweight, runs off butane canisters and is so easy to unpack you can do it in the dark. It’s a cinch to cook yourself a meal and pack down again for a hot brekky before heading off. It’s pretty much the same thing you’ll find in the middle of the table at a Korean BBQ restaurant, only without having to worry about being pelted by flying eggs. It’ll do a decent steak in about 10 minutes … and even handier, bacon and an omelette in about five. RRP $39.99, bcf.com.au
3 1 2
4 10
max*d
TECH HEAD
N O I T TRAC CONTROL 4WD guru Graham Cahill explains
Your 4WD D-MAX or MU-X is in its element off-road
A large part of that off-road capability in both the D-MAX and MU-X comes down to its impressive Traction Control system.
12
max*d
TECH HEAD
Y
ou can go your own way up the road to the corner shops, or for a long stint along a crowded holiday motorway, and your D-MAX or MU-X will rumble along without a hiccup. But sometimes you want to tackle country that’s just a little more challenging. For many drivers, rutted and rocky gullies, wild and woolly sand dunes, and steep and slippery slopes are the stuff of nightmares. But if you’re keen to abandon the blacktop—and you should be—the 4WD capabilities of your Isuzu model can deliver you to some of the best country Australia has to offer. It’s in Isuzu’s DNA. It never ceases to amaze me how well the D-MAX handles gnarly terrain. And a large part of that off-road capability in both the D-MAX and MU-X comes down to its impressive Traction Control system. Which raises the question: what is Traction Control and how does it work? Let’s take a look. Put simply, Traction Control is the electronic system that stops or limits the driving wheels of a vehicle from spinning. It works both on- and off-road, intervening automatically on any surface where the wheels have started to slip due to excessive engine torque. It’s a crucial safety feature, one that often does its work during day-to-day driving without the driver even noticing its intrusion. But it can be just as useful off-road—and here’s how. Picture yourself taking on a challenging bit of track—all ruts and bumps and boulders.
With Traction Control turned off, as soon as one of your wheels lifts, you’ll lose forward momentum. This is because all the power is being sent to the wheel that’s off the ground—because it’s the one with no traction, and therefore the least resistance. As a result, that wheel will be turning uselessly in the air. It’s what happens in a 4WD that has no Traction Control and an open diff. In a D-MAX or MU-X, with Traction Control turned on (it’s the default setting), you’ll have no such trouble. In this case the vehicle uses electronic sensors to detect the loss of grip in the affected wheels and responds by transferring some of the power to the wheel that has traction. In a fraction of a second, it applies braking force to the spinning wheel, which acts to give the vehicle forward drive, and once again move you towards where you’re going. The Traction Control system isn’t just great for rutted tracks—it’s also beneficial on gravel, dirt and rocks. And because it’s all computer-controlled, and not mechanical like a limited slip diff, it’s smart enough to differentiate between these surfaces and operate accordingly. Note that if you’re in mud, soft sand or deep snow with Traction Control engaged, the engine torque may be reduced to mitigate wheel spin, making it difficult to drive through. In times like this, pressing ESC OFF will deactivate Traction Control and make getting unstuck easier. The Traction Control system in the D-MAX has gotten me out of more sticky situations than I can count and I wouldn’t head bush without it.
max*d
13
INSIDE LINE
“IT’S TAKE-NOPRISONERS STUFF!” Ross Stone takes us through Isuzu UTE Australia’s entry into the super-competitive SuperUtes Series
S
upercar legend Ross Stone tried to get away from motor racing, he really did, but after more than three decades of living and breathing it, he didn’t do too well. “V8 racing was all consuming—we had at least 45 people on the go, it had your full attention all day, every day, so I thought I’d have a break from it, but about two weeks later I was a bit bored,” the 65-year-old recalls, somewhat sheepishly. “And then this SuperUtes program came up, and so I just thought I’d just get
14
max*d
involved in trying to sort out that series.” Fast forward a couple of years and the famous Ross Stone Racing brand is back on track, managing an Isuzu D-MAX in the hugely competitive SuperUtes Series and absolutely loving it. So much so, Stone decided to have a go himself. “I’ve driven one and they really are good; they’ve got really good steering, they sit quite flat, they’ve got really good brakes— these utes use the same-size brakes now as the V8 Supercars, which is much better than what the racing utes used to be like,
WORDS STEPHEN CORBY
and the whole thing is much better now. They’ve even got data on the dash on front and rear brake pressure—it’s the real deal,” Stone enthuses. “I always pushed for the SuperUtes Series to be a pathway into the junior V8 categories because you’d get to learn some of the tracks. Now you get used to using the data because the set-up we’ve got now in the Isuzu is the same as in V8 racing. It’s just excellent.” After helping establish the series back in 2018—by pitching in to build half a dozen of the entrants—Stone couldn’t resist and
INSIDE LINE
ended up running a team with Holden for that first year. Along with Kiwi young-gun driver Tom Alexander they managed to finish third, with six wins. By the end of the season, however, Stone knew it was time to move on because his former marque just wasn’t providing the kind of support it had promised. “We knew it was time to regroup and then through Caltex we came up with the three-way marriage with Isuzu UTE Australia. It’s just been fantastic,” he says. “When you’ve been in racing for a long
time you take a lot of stuff for granted. A lot of that is entirely new to the people at Isuzu but they’ve been learning quickly and they’re really keen to be a part of it. They’ve been great.” The Isuzu D-MAX is one of six makes in the SuperUtes and began the season with two second-place finishes at the opening round in Adelaide, straight out of the box, with Alexander dominant at the wheel. An uninterrupted string of podiums followed, capped by victory in two races at the 2019 Pirtek Perth SuperNight in May. At time of
writing, Alexander leads the series with half a dozen races to go. All of the competitor vehicles are fitted with a kit provided by the Supercars organisation, which provides their brakes, shock absorbers, springs, rear diff and associated framework. Each team gets to run its own engine, however, with a capped 300-horsepower limit to provide parity. If it might have seemed strange, once, for a racing series to feature only diesel engines, Stone says it makes perfect sense today. “I reckon the SuperUtes is the most
max*d
15
INSIDE LINE
What I’ve found with the D-MAX guys is that they’re very loyal to their brand. They want to talk about the differences between what they’re driving on the road and what we’re racing.”
market-relevant series around,” he says. “If you look at the news on car sales it’s not good, they’re going down. What people are buying is diesel utes, so they’re very relevant. “Not only are they selling in good numbers, but they’ve also got the most potential market share to gain as the number of cars being sold continues to drop off. They’re in the sweet spot.” As for the switch to driving the country’s most storied circuits in a mighty Isuzu D-MAX, Stone says his ace behind the wheel, Alexander, is loving it. “He really likes the way it drives and while you might think, ‘How is a ute going to handle around a track’, with the shocks and the rear suspension, it actually handles really well. You see some really tough racing—it’s take-no-prisoners stuff and the drivers don’t hesitate to bang into you if you’re holding them up, so it’s fun to watch,” Stone laughs. The biggest change Stone has noticed after the shift to the Isuzu D-MAX is the enthusiasm of his new fans. “When the cars are in a pit marquee and you have the bonnets up you can see the different groups come in. What I’ve found with the D-MAX guys is that they’re very
16
max*d
The brains trust. Ross talks strategy for 2019
loyal to their brand,” he says. “They really like the car, they want to talk about it, to look at the differences between what they’re driving on the road and what we’re racing. They’re a passionate bunch. “These Isuzu fans are super keen and they’re really helping to grow the sport.” Isuzu UTE Australia is equally excited about being involved in SuperUtes as a factory team, with Mike Conybeare, General Manager of Marketing and PR, saying it was a thrill to team up with one of the most experienced racing teams in Australia—Ross Stone Racing.
INSIDE LINE
Kiwi young gun Tom Alexander
The smell of SuperUtes: brakes and rubber
And, of course, to partner with Caltex Australia. “We followed the SuperUtes category closely during the maiden year of competition and were impressed with the level of racing displayed,” Conybeare says. “We feel that this is a really great platform to showcase our 3.0L turbo-diesel engine in our Isuzu D-MAX. “We wish Tom Alexander and Ross Stone Racing all the best for the rest of the season and hope fans enjoy seeing the Isuzu D-MAX mixing it with some of the best drivers in the country.”
max*d
17
Y L P P SU COVER STORY
EYRE
I- V E N T IS U Z U U T E
URE CLUB
Y COFFIN BA
,
, SA
ime is a subl k r a P l iona Bay Nat nes and, on an n ffi o C du ngertips iaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fi l d a r n r u a t s o s y s u s t South A ntrasts, endle ular seafood a CURRY co ac ES IAIN G A M I blend of Club trip, spect & WORDS e I-Ventur
18
max*d
COVER STORY
D
uring the Australian summer of 1802, two European captains in two large sailing boats were leading expeditions in a race to map the coastline of New Holland and New South Wales. These two salty sea dogs, England’s Matthew Flinders and France’s Nicolas Baudin, were no strangers to touring the waters around Terra Australis, and their voyages were your typical mix of death at sea, cartography, naming myriad landmarks, plants and animals and, of course, chundering over the gunwales. The pair crossed paths at South Australia’s Encounter Bay. No doubt
Flinders broke out the scotch and Baudin a fine Bordeaux as they recounted their holiday cruises so far. As they’d both avoided the harsh European winter and their respective countries being at war with each other, cheery discussion may have turned to the natural beauty slightly further west at Coffin Bay, Matt telling Nick he’d named the spot for his mate Sir Isaac Coffin. “You’ll find calm, crystal blue waters by white, sandy beaches,” Flinders might have said. “There are giant coastal sand dunes, desert landscapes, abundant emus and kangaroos for the barbie, and the seafood’s incredible. There are a few epic
surf spots, but watch for sharks and slap on some sunscreen—it gets bloody hot out there.” Some 200 years later, these natural wonders remain largely untouched in the protected Coffin Bay National Park. Access today need not be aboard a timber survey ship, but this Eyre Peninsula beauty spot remains a challenge to reach. It takes an eight-hour, 700km journey from Adelaide to get there, but it also ensures the journey is the reserve of the committed 4x4 adventurer. The location is ideal, therefore, as the latest playground for an Isuzu UTE I-Venture Club epic, where MU-X and D-MAX
max*d
19
COVER STORY
owners could enjoy three days of off-road exploring, tuition, camaraderie and laughs in a spectacular wilderness. And unlike 19th-century explorers there’d be a true holiday vibe thrown in, with barbecue breakfasts, sashimi, sundowner beers, comfy beds and the chance to learn how to shuck your own oysters. As with all multi-day I-Venture Club experiences, there’s the combination of like-minded adventurous Isuzu owners, expert guides and Isuzu UTE Australia’s ever-busy crew ensuring everyone’s well fed, watered and in the right place at the right time. Our Friday morning meeting point is Port Lincoln where, over brekkie, 4WD guru and lead instructor David Wilson— nut brown from a life lived outside and rich with local knowledge—gives a quick brief to the gathered Isuzu owners. “This is the best place on earth,” Wilson insists, biased maybe as he owns a property at Coffin Bay. “It’s a unique, wild space where you can pull up camp and not see a soul for days. Being 700km from Adelaide dissuades a lot of people from coming over—and that’s a good thing.” We convoy to Lincoln National Park, drop tyre pressures to 18psi, engage low range and are immediately meandering through sandy tracks. It’s a baptism of fire. All on this trip have done at least one introductory I-Venture jaunt, but the sand is so soft and deep here the driving advice being communicated via UHF from Wilson’s lead vehicle is welcomed by all. The landscape may boast small shrubs, coastal mallee eucalypts and the occasional quandong tree, but the dry, sandy ground looks like it’s not seen rain since 1987. As the sand tracks deepen, so does the likelihood of getting bogged. Every day’s a school day, and with some enthusiastic encouragement to power over a particularly steep sand dune and down onto a striking white beach, Wilson gives a much appreciated lesson in using MAXTRAX recovery equipment. Mental note: digging into hot sand under hot cars while the mercury tips 40°C doesn’t look fun. Avoid getting stuck at all costs.
20
max*d
This is the best place on earth—it’s a unique, wild space where you can pull up camp and not see a soul for days.
COVER STORY
BEDE ANDERSON AND IAN ANDERSON, PERTH, WA, AND WAYO, NSW 2013 Isuzu D-MAX
We follow the Sleaford to Wanna 4WD trail, rich with rocky headlands and views of the wild and beautiful turquoise sea. As enticing as the spot is, it wouldn’t have been an ideal picnic stop for Flinders or Baudin. The full force of the Southern Ocean—next stop, Antarctica—has been pounding these cliffs for millennia. Our MU-X’s ever-rugged 3.0L engine helps plough us through desert landscapes, all in leather-seated, air-conditioned comfort. It was too good to last, though. We hesitate as we crest a dune, lose momentum and bury the SUV up to its axles. The sand burns my feet, the blazing overhead sun scorches my scalp and I prepare for a sweaty digging session. Luckily, blessed rescue is at hand. Wilson’s already cleared said sand dune in his lead
D-MAX and in no time a snatch strap is secured and we’re dragged from our burial site. Despite the delay, we agree it has to be one of Australia’s most picturesque sites to get stuck. Back on the bitumen we convoy towards Coffin Bay to our apartment, hop in the shower and begin removing sand from places it really shouldn’t reach. A few cold ones at the local yacht club is followed by a beach fire, toasted marshmallows and a celebratory sundowner as the gathered troops share stories of the day’s journey and learnings. The Bay is perfectly still, pastel colours flood the giant sky and sleep comes easily once we retire for the day. Next morning’s hearty breakfast is walked off along Coffin Bay’s Oyster Trail to the Long Beach sand hills. Here an
“We live on either side of the country, so to meet in the middle on the Eyre Peninsula has been perfect,” says Bede. “From day one we’d had confidence in the team, allowing us to adventure without it being dangerous. “We’ve had knowledge reinforced and reminders to let the car do its thing as it will do amazing things; you don’t have to push it. “We know we can follow the ruts of the car in front with experts on board to get us to that great location and view. It’s intensive learning and the rescues are all part of it. Seeing and watching how a recovery is done gives us skills so we know we can get ourselves out of trouble in future. “The package is excellent. Sand driving alone could get boring, but learning about the nature and history, doing the experiences and sampling the local produce are all part of the discovery. Then, of course, there’s the friendships you make on these trips.”
max*d
21
COVER STORY
As each successive Isuzu eventually crests, shouts of triumph and delight fill the airwaves. There’s a wonderful sense of achievement as all the ducklings follow their four-wheeled mother home.
imposing dune rises mightily from the beach and the brave souls who venture up it are rewarded with 360-degree views of clear waters and desert vistas that have a crack at stretching to infinity. You don’t go to the Barossa Valley and not try a shiraz, so why would you do Coffin Bay and not sample the creamy, salty taste of local oysters? But while you won’t crush wine grapes yourself, here you can shuck your own oysters straight after they’ve been plucked from the sea. This novelty compels even the most fearful of mollusc munchers to have a try, with their unbeatable freshness winning some of the lifelong avoiders over. Wading
22
max*d
waist deep (in waterproof waders, of course) to our oyster dining tables in the Bay all adds to the experience. As emus wander casually across the road in downtown Coffin Bay, we saddle up our Isuzus and venture to Coffin Bay National Park. If David Lean hadn’t used North Africa to film Lawrence of Arabia, this panorama of undulating white and yellow desert sands might have been a worthy cinematic substitute. The going isn’t easy. Driving here is as formidable as you might expect and Wilson and his team have to pool their experience to rescue a few bogged participants, as well as advise others how
COVER STORY to conquer a long, steep, soft sand dune, as fragile as a giant pile of caster sugar. It would be too easy for Wilson to take the reins and use his experience to complete the task. But, no. There’s no patronising here—we have to prove we can do the job ourselves. We try lowering tyre pressures, using high-range 4WD rather than low-range to gain more speed, taking manual control for gear changes and keeping wheels straight to avoid ploughing the soft sand. As each Isuzu eventually crests, shouts of triumph and delight fill the air. There’s a wonderful sense of achievement as all ducklings manage to follow their fourwheeled mother home. Experiencing first hand quite how capable these off-roaders are over the
loosest of surfaces is one thing, but there’s no denying it’s fun, too. With momentum on our side, powdered sand flying off the spinning wheels and our MU-X effortlessly following wheel tracks, it’s a driving experience like no other. The evening brings a delicious freerange Berkshire spit-roast dinner in Wangary, as rustic and authentic a South Australian spot imaginable, where hungry bellies are filled and the enduring heat— it seems to get hotter the deeper into the day you go—is tempered by blissful cold beer and wine from the Esky. The final day is arguably most breathtaking of all. Illustrating the scenic contrast found within a short drive, we begin with the rugged raw beauty of Point Avoid and Golden Island lookouts
CHRISTINE AND MARK ISBERG, WANGI WANGI, NSW 2017 Isuzu MU-X “We’ve driven on sand before, but not dunes this big or with corrugations like this. We wouldn’t have done such a trip ourselves—the safety of the group is very important on a trip like this, which is reassuring. We’ve all basically got the same cars, so people share what range to be in and which gear feels safe, and the guides are so knowledgeable. “The seafood’s been beautiful and I was very proud to have eaten an oyster! They’re action-filled days and you learn, do and see heaps. “Learning new skills, having a great laugh and seeing how well organised it is has been brilliant. Everyone has a great time and you meet some lovely, like-minded people.”
max*d
23
COVER STORY
Coffin Bay, South Australia
COFFIN BAY AT A GLANCE HOW DO I GET THERE?
with the swell smashing into limestone headlands. We off-road north to Yangie Bay and this mesmerising spot, protected from brutal winds and raging seas, is about as peaceful as you’ll find anywhere. Here we drive on a deserted beach close to the calm water’s edge. Once more the sand is so soft we require all the Isuzus’ power and ability to maintain progress, but we emerge onto Seven Mile Beach, which renders you almost speechless for its beauty. Like a Caribbean tourism commercial, the powdered, white sand is met by shallow, lapping turquoise waters with little fish happily playing in their private paradise. It feels like one of the most unspoiled, remote places in Australia, but as this is an I-Venture Club trip, luxury isn’t far away. Local caterers 34° South have rolled up in their 4WD and prepare oysters, kingfish, tuna, prawns and chargrilled kangaroo. It’s surreal. I’ve only enjoyed similar quality in the finest urban restaurants. Shows the importance of having fresh, local produce—and knowing talented people able to prepare it. With the temperature still in the high 30s, I can resist the water no longer. I check with Wilson if those monster four-metre great whites venture round to these sheltered waters. “Hop in and find out,” he says. A few of us take the plunge and, while the water’s surface is superheated from the sun, I dive lower and swear there’s a 10-degree temperature difference. 24
max*d
There’s time for the mind to be blown one last time. We climb yet another sand dune and roll down onto deserted Sensation Beach. The name isn’t misleading. Lucky Flinders and Baudin didn’t moor here, as they surely would never have left. Why return to a foggy and damp London or Paris when Mother Nature is at her very finest right here on the other side of the world? Final stories are shared at Coffin Bay’s impossibly hip 1802 Oyster Bar. We’re so very far from anything, it seems, yet in this tiny town of only a few hundred residents there’s a gin selection hard to beat either side of Melbourne. Last words go to the ever-effervescent tour guide David Wilson, whose local knowledge and enthusiasm for the region has been obvious since we began. Now we’ve seen this fascinating pocket of South Australia with our own eyes, conquered its sandy trails and sampled its varied and world-class local produce. Admirably, he wants to share his paradise found. “Bring the kids,” he says. “It would be an amazing adventure and they’ll see stuff they’ll never see back in town. “Bring a camera, your surfboard, there’s fantastic beach fishing, oysters, and if you’ve got a tinnie, bring that along, too.” The grin never leaves his face as he talks of Coffin Bay as a proud grandpa would his grandkids. We’re believers. This wild and spectacular pocket has provided memories to last a lifetime.
The drive from Adelaide to Coffin Bay can be done in a day, but plan some stops during the 700km cruise. The drive north is somewhat uninspiring at times, so have a lunch stop at Port Augusta and discover the Pichi Richi Railway 40km away at Quorn if you have time. Head south west via Whyalla then skirt the coast to Port Lincoln, say g’day to the Makybe Diva statue, then venture the final 50km north west to Coffin Bay.
WHERE TO STAY: The very friendly Long Beach Holiday Apartments (longbeachapartments.net.au) in Coffin Bay offer self-contained two-bedroom apartments that are clean, neat and well-priced. Holiday home rentals are available through coffinbayholidayhomes. com.au where you can find places with views across the water.
WHEN TO GO: David Wilson says the best time is October through to May, as between these months the tides may make some parts inaccessible, totally covering up 4WD tracks. Bring the tinnie, fishing rods, surfboard and clothing to suit extreme temperatures. Park passes are required, so visit parks.sa.gov.au first—also a useful stop for the latest alerts, maps and advice.
DON’T LET YOURSELF GET BOXED IN WITH OUTDATED DESIGNS
ALSO AVAILABLE
FOR ISUZU MU-X
At AFN we approach things differently, we take into consideration the natural lines of the vehicle and give the vehicle a look and feel that it so rightly deserves.
OUR RANGE INCLUDES • Bullbars
• Rear bumper with Jerry Can and Wheel Carriers
• Front bumper bars (as per the bullbar but without hoops)
• Side Steps
• Rear Step Bars
• Full underbody protection (6mm Aluminium) • Hidden Winch Mounts (to suit OEM Bumper)
1300 AFN 4x4 | www.afn4x4.com.au sales@afn4x4.com.au | 85 Kabi Circuit, Deception Bay, Qld 4508 facebook.com/AFN4x4australia
VISIT WWW.AFN4X4.COM.AU FOR A DEALER NEAR YOU
OUT OF THE BOX
BEACH
WORDS LUKE KENNEDY
LIFE’S A
In compiling his epic 101 Best Australian Beaches, Tourism Australia ‘Global Beach Ambassador’ Brad Farmer visited every strip of sand on our coast
B
rad Farmer had just pulled up at Treachery Beach on the mid-north coast of NSW. As co-author of the definitive coastal book and website 101 Best Australian Beaches, Farmer was doing further research and looking to ride a wave or two. Wandering down a track, Farmer found himself face to face with none other than Lachlan Murdoch. ‘Treach’ is known for its soaring sand dunes, its curiously sloped headland and 4WD-friendly beaches to the south at Yagon. Murdoch had been told by an advisor that it was an ideal location for a down-to-earth camping experience where he could hang out with his kids. For Farmer, the sandy-toed meeting with the media mogul reaffirmed his conviction that the beach is at the core of the Australian identity. “To me beaches are much more than just sand and water for Australians,” explains the author—also a federally appointed ‘ambassador’ for Australian beaches. “It’s historically where we spend our first school holidays and often where we make love for the first time. The majority of Australians get married near the beach.
26
max*d
The majority of Australians work or do their recreation near or on the beach and retire on the beach. Australians are the foremost beach-going nation in the world per capita.” After falling under the spell of Australia’s fringes at an early age, the challenge for Farmer was finding a way to become a professional beach bum. A keen boardrider, Farmer’s first literary collaboration was with champion Australian surfer Nat Young. At the tender age of 24, Farmer co-authored Nat Young’s Guide to Surfing Australia— a kind of Gregory’s for those who wanted a little guidance as they succumbed to wavemad Down Under wanderlust. Farmer remembers well the kind of ‘follow your nose’ research he did in the early years.
After falling under the spell of Australia’s fringes at an early age, the challenge for Farmer was finding a way to become a professional beach bum.
BRADâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S
TOP 5 2018 BEACHES
#1 NUDEY BEACH, QLD
#2 HORROCKS BEACH, WA
#3 DREAMTIME BEACH, NSW
#4 COSSIES BEACH, WA
#5 BURLEIGH HEADS, QLD max*d
27
OUT OF THE BOX
“You are talking about the days before satellites and GPS,” he says, “so there were a shedload of dead-ends. You did a lot of your exploring on a gut feeling or a yarn at the pub or a tip-off from another surfer.” After his collaboration with Young, Farmer went on to enjoy a dynamic career, working as a political advocate and strategist, rubbing shoulders with everyone from prime ministers to UN delegates. Utilising his organisational skills, he was instrumental in starting the Surfrider Foundation before establishing the National Surfing Reserves. However, while walking the corridors of power in Canberra may have helped push the agenda for protecting Australia’s coastline, Farmer always followed the scent of salt air back to the beach. Often it was the isolated stretches that he found the most humbling and exhilarating. “You can be somewhere like Windy Harbour down near Walpole in WA, where you paddle out and the rip just takes you two kilometres out to sea. Basically you are in the southern ocean by yourself,” he says, with a short laugh. “That whole coast is so raw that you don’t mess with it.” Compiling the anthology of Australia’s 101 best beaches (in conjunction with professor Andrew Short) became a labour of love for Farmer, who points out that Australia has close to 12,000 beaches.
28
max*d
Australia has the greatest diversity of beaches of any nation in the world— and approximately 25 per cent of them are accessible only by 4WD.
Between himself and Andrew, they visited every single one while researching the book. Farmer stresses that while other nations may lay claim to having the world’s finest beaches, none can really match Australia’s ever-changing, continuous coastline. “Places like the Caribbean or Hawaii may claim to have the best beaches in the world, but they’re the best tropical beaches,” he says. “We have the greatest diversity of beaches of any nation in the world.” Farmer also suggests that it is 4WD enthusiasts who are really in the best position to explore this secret country. “Approximately 25 per cent of Australia’s beaches are accessible only by 4WD,” he says, emphatically. When pressed for his criteria on determining the perfect beach, Farmer answers in metaphorical rather than literal terms: “It’s a little bit like a doctor prescribing a subscription. It really depends on what you need.” He says geographical features are important, but there’s also the human dimension—and that doesn’t necessarily mean running into media heirs on sandy tracks. “It’s about the experience,” he says, “and that includes the characters of the
Above Left: One of Brad’s favourites, Catherine Hill Bay in NSW; This image: Conspicuous Cliff beach, Walpole, WA
AN EXCLUSIVE OPPORTUNITY FOR D-MAX AND MU-X OWNERS TO LEARN THE 4X4 SKILLS TO HELP YOU GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR VEHICLE
OUT OF THE BOX
Fraser Island’s 75 Mile Beach makes the cut
Australian coast—and the most awesome characters you are going to find are the ones on a 4WD track or down the end of a dusty road.” While names like Catherine Hill Bay, NSW, pop up in Farmer’s list of personal favourites, he prefers to think in terms of regions when it comes to recommending trips in 4WDs. The Bay of Fires on the north-east coast of Tasmania is one place he suggests he’d happily return to. “It’s mostly National Park and it has sweeping white, ‘smile’ or curving beaches, punctuated by low, orange-white granite boulders,” he says. Farmer also rates the south coast of Western Australia as another dream setting for more adventurous explorers. “The Albany-to-Esperance stretch is gold,” he says. “You can’t go wrong. The beaches are wild, they’re raw and the people who you bump into are going to have common values. There are so many beaches around Esperance that are just picture perfect all year round.” Having spent four decades roaming the continent on his quest to chronicle what he believes to be Australia’s most valuable
asset, Farmer, who is nearing 60, admits he is slowing down a little. On a political note he remains determined to see a Federal Coastal Act introduced; one that would override what he sees as self-interested decisions made by the states. He continues to update his online list of 101 Best Australian Beaches annually, but for now, he is content to kick back and enjoy his new favourite corner of the earth. Today, Farmer is speaking with max*d from the west coast. “I’m sitting here at Horrocks beach, just outside Kalbarri in WA, happy as Larry,” he says. “I’ve got a cheap beach shack. I’m looking out towards the Abrolhos Islands off the mid-west coast of WA. Outside me is a crystal clear, coralencrusted, blue lagoon full of marine life, lobsters and dolphins, and I eat crayfish every day and it costs me nothing. It’s one of the most extraordinary, charismatic Australian communities I’ve come across. “That’s why I’ve decided to anchor myself here and call it Australia’s number one mainland best beach—for the last year, anyway!” See Farmer’s criteria, beach ratings and write-ups at www.101bestbeaches.com
‘The Albanyto-Esperance stretch is gold,’ says Farmer. ‘You can’t go wrong. The beaches are wild and raw.’
30
max*d
Bay of Fires in Tassie is another favourite
MAXTRAX.COM.AU
TRAVELLER The Gibb River Road is the surest way into the heart of the real Kimberley
A SUN-DRENCHED
ELSEWHERE WORDS AND PICTURES BY CARLISLE ROGERS
I V E R R OA R B
I V E R R OA
32
max*d
BR
D
THE GIB
THE GIB
D
K OUTBOARCER EXPL VIEW OVER
TRAVELLER
U
nder a hazy, scorched sky, surrounded by a mercurial landscape of ochre mountains sliding into vast alluvial plains, the Cockburn Ranges slouch against time, their gaze as blank and pitiless as the sun. The Gibb River Road is the pulsing artery of the Kimberley: a blood-red 650km conduit for adventure, beauty and pilgrimage. Innocuous turns lead to gaping, bloodshot chasms bisected by black water. Knife-edged ranges slice the Gibb in two, rain-sharpened remnants of a coral reef that thrived here, at the bottom of an ocean, four hundred million years ago. All of the earth’s secrets are laid bare in the Kimberley. Fossils mingle with petroglyphs. Prehistory and meta-history meld into a story you can read in an afternoon, the story of life itself.
Windjana & Tunnel Creek
Tunnel Creek in the King Leopold Ranges
The Western Gibb Departing Derby, the Gibb is paved for the first 34km, passing by the ecological experiment that is Birdwood Downs Station, only 13km from Derby. For nearly 40 years this relatively small 2000-acre station has been a test bed for pasture regeneration. The camping here is basic, but seeing the country on horseback reveals stunning sunsets and a warped, wrinkled wreck of a boab that has been carbon-dated to over 2000 years old. Just over 100km east of the station, across a span of flat, flood-worn country dotted with dry creek beds and forlorn boabs, is the intersection with the Fairfield Leopold Downs Road, which runs south to the Great Northern Highway. This track also leads to two of the most spectacular sites along the Gibb: Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek.
The famous Bell Gorge waterfall
WHEN TO GO
The Kimberley is mainly a dry-season destination, extending from May to September. The coolest and most comfortable months are July and August, though these are the most crowded months, too. Fishing is best around the warmer shoulders of the season and the waterfalls run the best early in May and June.
Watching the sun set from within Windjana Gorge, seeing the walls turn blood red, the water sitting as still as the throttle on a funeral train, freshwater crocodiles drifting imperceptibly beneath, is a religious experience unto itself. There is a strange silence here that only reinforces the majesty of the vista before you. The campground at Windjana overlooks the west-facing massif, the maw of the amphitheatre-like gorge. If your timing is right, you can watch the moon rise above the crenellated façade of the Gorge. Tunnel Creek, 35km further down the road, tells the story of the Kimberley from within. Approaching the mouth of a yawning cave in the Napier Range, a slab of sandstone blocks most of the opening. You scramble around it and into the cool darkness, barely lit by a hole in the ceiling. Shallow water runs silently through the cave.
King Leopold Ranges Heading east again along the Gibb, the country changes. The track rises in elevation through several jump-ups into the King Leopold Ranges, home to Bell Gorge, the queen of the Kimberley gorges. Bell Gorge has easily the most famous waterfall along the Gibb. Surrounded by the King Leopold Conservation Park, it is a gaping wound in the rose stone cut by water over millennia. The scale of the Gorge is almost as arresting as the bracing water and it’s beautiful from just about any angle you view it from. The camping at Silent Grove is basic, with fire rings and a caretaker, but Bell Gorge is not the place to seek solitude. It’s close enough to Derby to bring the bussed masses, and popular enough that it is rare to experience Bell Gorge alone. max*d
33
TRAVELLER
TIPS FOR OUTBACK SURVIVAL 1. If lost or broken down, always stay with your vehicle. Without shade and water, your odds of survival diminish quickly. 2. Carry more water than you think you need. You never know where or how long you could be stranded. 3. Take a satellite phone and let people know where you’re headed. 4. Let your tyres down to 25–30psi on corrugated roads. Your car, and your rattling teeth, will thank you. 5. Always engage 4WD on unsealed roads. 6. Travel with a friend and proper recovery equipment and you’ll escape most jams.
Cape Leveque
Next along the Gibb, heading east, is Charnley River Station. Along the track you’ll pass a massive boab tree that explorer Frank Hann emblazoned with his initials in 1898. The homestead here offers basic camping, but you can explore several of the gorges that are nestled around the property, Dillie and Grevillea being the standouts. Be sure to follow the well-marked 4WD tracks that wind through the property, which will take you there.
The Beating Heart The next gorge along the Gibb is Galvans Gorge. A small oasis of clear green water surrounded on three sides by towering cliff faces, the deep pool here has a small waterfall you can sit under and a platform from which you can perfect your swan dive. Mt Barnett Roadhouse, named for the tallest of the Barnett Ranges to the south-east across the Gibb, is a popular refueling stop and the gateway to Manning Gorge. For years the start of the Manning Gorge walk entailed carrying your shoes and camera in Styrofoam broccoli packing boxes across the Manning River. Today there is a small tinnie with a rope to pull yourself across the river, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have a
34
max*d
refreshing swim here before and after your hike. The hike itself takes around an hour, cutting across a high plain with views out across the Phillips Range. A few lonely boabs break up the yellow grass and termite mounds, and the track gets quite steep as you near the Gorge itself, running up and down a few steep sections in quick succession. Another 46km east down the Gibb is the driveway for Mt Elizabeth Station, a working cattle property and one of the wildest stations on the Gibb. The tracks that cut through the rocky
Pentecost Crossing on Home Valley Station
TRAVELLER
The jewel in the crown is Emma Gorge, a deep, shaded, horseshoe-shaped chasm.
KIMBERLEY QUICK TRIVIA: 1. El Questro is not Spanish for anything. After a heavy night of drinking, the original purchaser of the property woke up, went to the land registry office and handed over a slip of scrap paper with the words scrawled in shaky lettering. History was forged. 2. Boabs are among the longest-living objects in the world. Some specimens have been carbon-dated to 2000+ years old. 3. Barramundi are all male until they reach around 60cm in length. They then become female and can breed!
Lake Argyle Horizontal Waterfall Base
Helifishing at Home Valley
scrub here are truly challenging. Wunnamurra Gorge is at the end of a long, slow drive in low range, but absolutely stunning, uncrowded and adorned with Aboriginal rock art. Basic camping is available at the homestead. The Kalumburu Road, heading north to Mitchell Falls, is 71km further east. It is a big detour and a rough road. The time-poor can catch a plane from Drysdale River Station to see the Falls. Home Valley Station is one of the highlights of the Gibb River Road. The massive open-air bar, swimming pool, grassy campground and luxurious accommodation choices—including safari tents and hotel rooms—make this the ultimate Kimberley escape destination. Fishing tours on the Pentecost River consistently bring in huge barramundi coming up the river from the sea. I have yet to visit without landing a prize fish. El Questro, though, is the last of the Kimberley stations on our journey. What makes El Questro
unique in the Kimberley is the range of environments and activities you can pursue while visiting. Two rivers run through the property—the Pentecost and the Chamberlain—each with its own personality and fauna. It would take a week to visit everywhere you can get to easily on the property and might take years to explore all the places that are chopper-accessible only. Consider it a challenge. The jewel in the crown is Emma Gorge at the resort across the Gibb, a deep, shaded, horseshoe-shaped chasm with a small waterfall and great swimming. Emma Gorge is postcard beautiful, if a little crowded on some days. El Questro has several fantastic 4WD tracks that wind through the property to suit just about every level of D-MAX or MU-Xer. As the sun dips below the majestic Cockburn Range, the bar at the station comes alive with music and laughter. It’s a fortress of merriment against the solitude of the Milky Way that rises in the east.
4. While the route of the Gibb River Road was originally a cattle run, actual road construction began as a result of the Kimberley Beef Scheme in the 1960s. The plan was to airlift cut beef from Derby and Wyndham, rather than trucking the live cattle overland.
Kooljaman Resort at Cape Leveque
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS Camping is available at every location mentioned in the article, and plenty more along the Gibb, but if you’re after something with fewer stars (i.e. a roof over your head), check out the following: Mt Hart Homestead mounthart.com.au Mornington Wilderness Camp australianwildlife.org/morningtonwilderness-camp Home Valley Station hvstation.com.au El Questro Station elquestro.com.au
max*d
35
THE LIST , ALIA S
THE LIST
AUSTR
BEST
BEST IN SNOW WORDS ANDREW CHESTERTON
For a typically sunburnt country, Australia’s alpine regions produce some sublime winter family fun. (You’ll still want sunscreen, though)
F
or all the romantic poetry Australia has inspired over the years—from unlucky jumbucks and suicidal swagmen to the rust-red beauty of her sunburnt and sweeping plains— our stunning alpine regions have rarely rated much more than a passing mention. Which is a little weird, because Australia actually serves up some of the most varied, and most accessible, snow-based fun
in the whole wide world. Sure, our mountains mostly look like tree-covered speed bumps compared to the towering monsters of Europe and North America, but from ski-in (and then out, obviously) chalets to parks so remote you’ll feel a million miles from civilisation, Australia’s winter wonderlands are this county’s true hidden gems. You just need to know where to look. Read on.
If you like: Après-ski action
THREDBO, NSW NOT to take anything away from its world-class runs—it was named Australia’s very best at the 2018 World Ski Awards—but the real lure of Thredbo is the European-style village you’ll retreat to following your time on the mountain. Happily, there’s no need to pile damp and cold into your D-MAX or MU-X after a day on the slopes here. Instead, Thredbo Village serves up accommodation options ranging from luxury villas and private apartments to significantly less-luxurious dormitory-style cabins, all mere footsteps from the lifts. No matter where you stay, the focus here is on family fun. With live concerts all winter long, trampoline parks for the kids and a choice of more than 30 restaurants and bars, après skiing never looked so good. Getting there: Just over 2.5 hours from Canberra, Thredbo Village is a part of the Kosciuszko National Park in NSW. thredbo.com.au © DESTINATION NSW
36
max*d
THE LIST
If you like: Serious skiing and snowboarding
MOUNT HOTHAM, VICTORIA THE higher you go, the better the snow. And that’s exactly what makes Victoria’s Mount Hotham such a hotspot for serious skiers and snowboarders every southern hemisphere winter. Australia’s highest alpine village, Mount Hotham serves up a massive 320 hectares of skiable terrain, unlocked via 13 lifts, as well as three dedicated terrain parks and more cross-country skiing than you can shake a Rossignol at. The altitude of the village itself also lends it an, ahem, cool, snowed-in feeling. Be warned, though. Hotham’s bounty is no secret, so it can get very busy in holiday periods. Better, then, to avoid the heaving carparks and find accommodation in nearby Dinner Plain—where you might also enjoy a dog sled ride with Howling Huskies (howlinghuskys.com.au)—and take the 10-minute shuttle to the ski lifts. Getting there: Hotham is 4.5 hours from Melbourne on Victoria’s Great Dividing Range. mthotham.com.au
If you like: Family-friendly fun
SELWYN SNOW RESORT, NSW WE can’t all be those James Bond types, boldly staring down a black-diamond run without a hint of terror. Besides, even 007 must surely have started somewhere. That somewhere might well have been (though to be fair, it probably wasn’t) the Selwyn Snow Resort in NSW. A much smaller and easier to navigate park than others in Australia, Selwyn has been designed as a place for families and beginners to sharpen their skills safely before moving on to more challenging terrain. With its ‘Friendly Family Fun’ motto, a proper worldclass ski school and among the cheapest lift passes in Australia, Selwyn is perfect for those families still finding their snow legs. Getting there: The Selwyn snowfields are actually the easiest to get to from Sydney—even if ‘easy’ in this case means a 5.5-hour drive. max*d
37
THE LIST
If you like: Skiing into your accommodation
FALLS CREEK, VICTORIA BILLED as having Australia’s only ski-in accommodation, the Falls Creek Alpine Resort is a world-class park home to an extravaganza of lifts, terrain parks and night skiing, with a buzzy little village at its centre. At the core of its appeal is its plentiful snowfall, with more than four metres of snow blanketing the landscape each winter and a mid-season average of around 120cm of natural cover, all of which is shared over an impressive 92 skiable runs. By far the coolest part of a visit here is the ability to ski off the slopes and right to the door of your on-mountain accommodation—something you can do for around 70 days per year, before the snow melts and you find yourself grinding over half-buried rocks, tree stumps and angry wombats. Getting there: Falls Creek is around five hours from Melbourne’s CBD (and longer when the roads are dark and icy). fallscreek.com.au
If you like: Getting away from it all
BEN LOMOND NATIONAL PARK, TASMANIA VICTORIA and NSW steal plenty of attention when it comes to alpine fun in Australia. And if you ask the good people of Tasmania, they wouldn’t have it any other way. Because it ensures the Ben Lomond ski area, about an hour from Launceston, is never, ever crowded. The Ben Lomond mountain range is home to Tasmania’s second-highest peak (Legges Tor, not a Game of Thrones henchman), and so mid-winter snowfall is plentiful. With more than six kilometres of slopes to explore, it’s easy to escape the sparse crowds. A smaller park than those on the mainland, Ben Lomond serves up just four T-bars and three Poma lifts (a kind of pulley system that drags you up the slope), and the resort focuses on cost-effective skiing and boarding, with child passes just $20. A bargain. Getting there: It’s about an hour from Launceston and a very manageable three hours from Hobart. skibenlomond.com.au 38
max*d
If you like: Not having to buy a lift ticket
THE LIST
MOUNT MAWSON, TASMANIA IF Tassie’s Ben Lomond feels short on crowds, Mount Mawson feels likes the wilds of Siberia. A part of the Mount Field National Park, Mount Mawson is home to just four T-bar-style lifts but, at 1250m in altitude, you can be assured of good snow coverage. Perhaps the biggest drawcard, however (other than the feeling of having an entire mountain to yourself), is the fact that the beginner ski area is free to use, meaning you can try your hand (or feet) at skiing before deciding if you want to upgrade to a bigger park. But that’s not to say skilled skiers should steer clear; the Roadway run is among the steepest in the state and, more importantly, lots of fun. Getting there: Less than two hours from Hobart, Mount Mawson is well within day-trip range if you’re coming from Tasmania’s most populated city. mtmawson.info
If you like: Simple snow fun
EVERYWHERE YES, skiing is generally a pastime enjoyed by those with deep pockets (and some of the lift pass prices in Australia don’t do much to alter that theory), but that’s not to say you can’t enjoy a day in the white stuff for next to nix. Nothing is off limits in a 4WD Isuzu, but the location of Australia’s snowfields ensures you can pull up by the side of the road in even a 2WD D-MAX, pull the sleds from the tray and get to sliding without ever buying a lift ticket. No sleds? Try your hand at snowman building, making snow angels or just hurling a snowball or two at the kids. Getting there: Point the nose of your Isuzu towards Australia’s coldest areas, then keep an eye out the window for snow. Simple.
max*d
39
UNSUNG HEROES
THE FLOTILLA COMMANDER Jeremy West runs the volunteer Western Port Coast Guard, Victoria. His day-to-day beat includes the freezing, deadly waters of Bass Strait
WORDS MICHAEL BENN / IMAGE GARY SISSONS—MORNINGTON PENINSULA NEWS GROUP
How much open ocean territory do you cover? Predominantly coastal waters, but we’ve also got two units that cover inland lakes. From Western Port itself we also look after around 15 nautical miles offshore into Bass Strait and along the coastline. What sort of people volunteer to be in your crews? We’ve got about 60 members— our youngest is 18 and our oldest is probably mid-80s; he’s been with Coast Guard for 51 years. We’ve got quite a high make up of female members and people from all walks of life—doctors through to traders, scientists, IT, old Navy guys, we’ve got other emergency services, a couple of paramedics, firefighters. We attract a wide range of people who just want to give back to the community. In my other life, I come from IT, working in the software industry and Customs. Taking on 18-foot swell in a tin boat with 50 knot headwinds is not very IT Crowd. No! No, it’s not, but that’s a highly likely situation to find ourselves in. The first couple of times you find yourself sort of clenching, going, “Oh… I regret this.” By third time it’s like, “Yeah, bring on the heavy stuff!” How often does it get that bad? It really varies. I’ve been in huge storms where the winds were so strong that the boat’s on its side for 90 per cent of the journey. The worst was heading out at 40
max*d
2am into Bass Strait, in the pitch dark, falling off 20-foot waves in a 10m boat. You basically free fall off the back of waves because you can’t see anything, then you’re pinned against the roof for a few moments before you hit the floor again. How thick does the fog get? It’s like bush fire smoke, it’s that thick. We regularly get out into the channel and quite often won’t even know which way we’re facing. And the bigger problem then is that radar is fairly useless in that scenario— because it just picks up all the moisture in the air. It can be extraordinarily disorientating. In that situation, if someone has a problem and they don’t have an EPIRB, it’s a huge problem. It can be fatal. Is it all death of glory, or do you have oddball rescues, too? One time we picked up a fridge that was floating in the bay. We rescued a koala we found by accident—it was hanging on to some moorings in Warneet. One of the other units found a cow quite by accident way out in the water. We had some people floating on inflatable flamingos out from Phillip Island. Things like the fridge, in particular, seem harmless—but if you’re going along in a fibreglass boat at 30 knots, hitting a submerged fridge at that speed is like hitting a tree at 70km/h in your car. It must be a pretty good feeling when you rescue someone who thought they were a goner.
If you’ve got a life jacket, you’ve got the initial shock of falling in cold water then you’ve literally got 15 minutes to regain composure and get yourself out.
Oh, absolutely. It’s kind of surreal. We had a couple of guys, for example, not long ago, and it was actually quite warm in summer, but they’d been out fishing all night and got hypothermia. They called in just because they’d broken down, just as a general assist—but when we got there, they could barely stand. Really, they could barely function. We rushed them back in to the paramedics and the paramedic basically said these guys had literally half an hour left and they were done. Gone. Hypothermia in summer! Is the cold the biggest all-year-round danger off Victoria? It’s probably the biggest threat, but not necessarily to us—we’ve got all the gear. The biggest thing that we see during winter is the old guys go out fishing overnight and they sit all night and then stand up to have a piss off the back… and that’s when they have a heart attack. Their body’s just been sort of dormant, sitting down in the cold elements and it happens when they get up. So they fall overboard and the heart attack is actually the cause of death, not the hypothermia. Heart attack aside, how long can you survive in that water? In the middle of winter your mean survival time in water below seven degrees is somewhere down to 16–20 minutes. So if you’ve got a life jacket, you’ve got the initial shock of falling in cold water, then you’ve literally got 15 minutes
UNSUNG HEROES
to regain your composure and get yourself out. The timeframe is so, so slim. After that, if you don’t have a life jacket on and any of the necessary safety equipment the chances of finding you are extraordinarily slim. You sink. Is there one thing you think most people don’t understand about the ocean? Yes—that it can literally take your life in a matter of minutes. It’s very easy to head out on the water and drive a boat, but it is
exceptionally dangerous. It’s just a fact. The weather can change, the conditions can change, the boat can break down. If you head out to drive a car, you might get lost, but at least you can keep following the road. When you’re out in Bass Strait, where do you go to get help? It’s a big, vast, empty, dangerous place. Which way do you turn? North? You wouldn’t want to aim for Tassie and miss. Yeah, that’d be my first choice, but then a lot of boats that
NAME Jeremy West TITLE Flotilla Commander, VF4, of the Western Port Coast Guard, Hastings, Victoria TIME IN ROLE: 3½ years CONTACT: coastguard.com.au/ flotilla/ vf4-western-port
make it that far out either don’t have a compass, or a working compass, and it’s not until they need those things that they realise they don’t have those things. And then the panic sets in. People really underestimate the power—and how quickly it can change. Finally, is having a business card that says ‘Flotilla Commander’ the key to successful dating? Yeah, but I’d probably need business cards first, right? No, it’s all just part of the job. max*d
41
HOOK, LINE & SINKER
STRAIGHT UP THE TOP Nick Duigan and Andrew Hart’s Hook, Line and Sinker lap of Australia reaches the Top End—starring heat stroke, mozzies and a notable absence of rain WORDS ANDREW HART
I
t was a simple plan. At the beginning of 2018, we decided to complete a lap of Australia. It was genius, because it meant we didn’t really have to come up with any ideas. The fishing would take care of itself. Or so we thought. Our rig: a brand new D-MAX. Behind it we tow a 7.8m Bar Crusher with a 300hp Yamaha. It’s the ultimate tailer boat rig and so far we’ve made it from Melbourne to Darwin via many, many amazing fishing spots along the way—including the very tip of Cape York. In 2019, our 13-episode season will see us cross our home state of Tassie—via the Western Australian coast. Among our
42
max*d
adventures will be a 200-mile journey through the Kimberley by sea. But we had to start somewhere and that place was Kakadu. In February. We spend time in the NT every year, but we’d never before visited in the wet season. As we headed east from Darwin, two things stood out: firstly, we basically had the entire place to ourselves. There were no tourists, no nomads, not even any locals about. The roads were empty. Secondly, it was stinking hot. Only 35 degrees, but with a close, humid heat we Tasweigens were not used to! Standing outside was like diving into
a pit full of warm, wet towels. Anyway, in the leather-clad and air-conditioned comfort of the D-MAX, we arrived at the South Alligator River ready to fish. Our plan was to fish the mouth of the River, which is some 100 kilometres from the boat ramp. They sure do long runs in the Territory to find a fish! To make matters more complicated we were faced with the biggest tides of the year—nearly eight metres! The difference between high tide at the mouth and at the boat ramp is three hours. And if you get stuck on the river at low tide, it’s full of sandbars, where you’ll find yourself stuck for half a day or more in the
Standing outside was like diving into a pit full of warm, wet towels. Anyway, in the leather-clad and air-conditioned comfort of the D-MAX, we arrived at the South Alligator River ready to fish.
blistering heat surrounded by large saltwater crocs. It was difficult to get our sweaty heads around. Thankfully we had a local to help. Our guru for the day, Paul Williams, was confident, so we launched on a slippery, muddy ramp in the middle of Kakadu and off we went. A couple of hours later, we’d arrived at a small creek, which we started trolling up. The fishing was tough, but we did get one big Threadfin Salmon that was dispatched and put on ice for dinner. The big barra we were after didn’t make an appearance and it wasn’t long before our window of opportunity closed. We managed to scrape our way back to the boat ramp—but only just—and then headed back to the motel for a feed of fresh thready. Next morning, we unhitched the boat and grabbed a couple
of Baitcaster rods and a box of lures and headed off to explore. Enjoying the 130km/h speed limit, it wasn’t long before we reached Jabiru and turned off on the Kakadu Highway. Along the way we kept stopping at all the bridges and bigger culverts for a few casts. This type of fishing from the side of the road is unique and when the Top End enjoys a bigger wet season than the one we were having, the barra action can be red hot. Basically, as the floodplains fill up and start to run off, the barra make use of the drains under the road, which hold food. All you have to do is stop and cast. If you have no luck, just jump back into the car and drive on. Both Nick and I loved this. And we even managed a few little Barra to make a great segment of the show.
Wat HOOK,LINE&SINKER L ch Hoo
k, ine on 7maand Sinker local gte. Check for det uides ails.
It’s back-to-basics, cheap fishing fun. And if we ever get the opportunity to do it again when there is a little more water laying around we’ll jump at it. But for now, we have a Kimberley adventure to plan for!
max*d
43
REFUEL
EASY WINTER WARMERS
“Yo have t u don’t o head the C off whip orner Coun to up thi try to s loaf,” says L dinkum me at e w i s, a n ea s “b y the le , tasty dinn ut it’s ftov er sandw ers are gre and at on iches the day.” S erve w next salad. ith a
Dine like Outback royalty with simple ingredients you can take with you— or pick up anywhere
I
t turns out that most of the jobs you wanted when you were a kid have serious drawbacks. To be an astronaut, you have to learn Russian (even NASA uses the Russian Mission Control Center!), train for a decade and ace all your classes. And then you come back to terra firma with wasted muscles, only to be harassed by flat earthers. And that’s not all. Race car driver? Too dangerous. Firefighter? Too smoky. Vet? Too many Chihuahuas. Jobs are hard. Careers are even harder. Unless you’re Cathy Savage and Craig Lewis. The pair formed legendary Australian bush guide publishing house Boiling Billy in 1996—and it’s been their ticket to living a life under endless Outback skies. They’ve published books on the High Country, some of the nation’s most secluded huts and
homesteads, and more 4WD regional guides than you can poke a fleet full of D-MAXs at. If that wasn’t enviable enough, for their 2015 book Australian Bush Pubs, the pair embarked on a 30,000km Outback pub crawl—bellying up to bars across the Great Southern Land. Every beer, presumably, refreshingly tax deductible. While not indulging in Australia’s best counter meals, however, Savage and Lewis are wizards in the open-sky kitchen. Hardy for campers and off-roaders, their no frills recipes are as delicious as they are uncomplicated. This winter, whether there’s snow on your boots in the Tarkine or you’re cracking out the cold-weather flanno in Far North Queensland, they’ve got you covered. It’s your choice: a sturdy ‘Corner Country’ meat loaf or a hearty lamb and mushroom stew. Get cooking.
Handy for campers and off-roaders, these no frills recipes are as delicious as they are uncomplicated.
44
max*d
‘Corner Country’ Meat Loaf Cooking time: around 1 hour Serves 6–8
• 500g beef mince • 1 large onion, chopped • 2 cloves garlic, crushed • 140g tub tomato paste • 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce • 1 carrot, grated • 1 cup corn kernels • ½ cup peas • 1 teaspoon mixed herbs • 1 egg, beaten • 1½ cups breadcrumbs Method: Combine all ingredients and place into greased loaf tin. If you don’t have a loaf tin you can shape this into a loaf and wrap well in foil. Cook in camp oven over medium coals for one hour or until cooked through. Drain off excess juices before cutting. Tip—For a change, use different vegetables. Other variations on this basic meat loaf are to line the loaf tin with bacon slice; place a couple of hard-boiled eggs down the centre of the loaf prior to cooking; or cover the cooked meat loaf with mashed potato then brush with melted butter and return to camp oven for a further 15 minutes with coals on the lid and cook until browned.
REFUEL
Lamb & Mushie Stew Cooking time: around 2 hours Serves: 4 • 4–6 large lamb leg chops • 440g tin cream of mushroom soup • ¼ cup chicken stock • ½ cup red wine • 250g button mushrooms, sliced Method: Trim the lamb chops of any excess fat. Heat some oil in camp oven and brown chops. Drain chops on paper towels and then return them to camp oven. Mix together the soup, stock and wine. Pour over the chops. Bake in camp oven on medium coals for 90 minutes. Cook mushrooms in a frying pan in a little oil until brown, then stir through the stew. Cook for a further 30 minutes or until the meat is tender.
FIND OUT MORE Recipes from Australian Bush Cooking, by Cathy Savage $34.99 RRP. booktopia.com.au
max*d
45
FLASHBACK
2005
THE ISUZU I-SERIES Launched at the 2005 New York International Auto Show, and built at the General Motors factory in Shreveport, Louisiana, the short-lived Isuzu i-Series was unique to North America. Although only mid-sized by the steroidal standards of American pick-ups, the i-Series had some interesting DNA—including a platform shared with the third-generation Hummer. Its powertrain, equipment and styling were common to Chevrolet and GMC’s then twins, called the Colorado and Canyon repectively, and unique to Isuzu in the US market. (Its distinctive chrome grille, in particular, set it apart.) Sadly, the i-Series’ cards were marked early. While competitively priced, volumes were low and appeal was truncated by Isuzu’s withdrawal from the American passenger vehicle market, finalised in early 2009. They’re now a collector’s model, of sorts—only 1377 were ever sold.
max*d
47
ISUZU UTE DEALER LIST NSW Albury Wodonga Blacklocks Isuzu UTE (02) 6049 5500 Armidale Grant McCarroll Isuzu UTE (02) 6772 1566 Arncliffe Suttons Arncliffe Isuzu UTE (02) 9335 9000 Ballina Northern Rivers Isuzu UTE (02) 6681 4499 Batemans Bay Clyde Isuzu UTE (02) 4472 4746 Bathurst Bathurst Isuzu UTE (02) 6339 9444 Blacktown Gilbert & Roach Isuzu UTE (02) 8825 1000 Broken Hill Far West Isuzu UTE (08) 8087 6001 Brookvale Suttons Brookvale Isuzu UTE (02) 9917 2200 Cardiff Cardiff Isuzu UTE (02) 4904 6777 Castle Hill Castle Hill Isuzu UTE (02) 8853 3838 Chullora Heartland Isuzu UTE (02) 9708 8999 Coffs Harbour Coffs Coast Isuzu UTE (02) 6648 3566 Cooma Cooma Isuzu UTE (02) 6452 1077 Dubbo Sainsbury Dubbo Isuzu UTE (02) 6884 6444 Eden Ron Doyle Motors Isuzu UTE (02) 6496 1420 Gosford Central Coast Isuzu UTE (02) 4320 0900 Goulburn Goulburn Isuzu UTE (02) 4822 2888 Griffith Griffith Isuzu UTE (02) 6969 5080 Gunnedah Gunnedah Isuzu UTE (02) 6742 2499 Illawarra Harrigan Illawarra Isuzu UTE (02) 4230 8888 Lismore Northern Rivers Isuzu UTE (ASO) (02) 6627 7999
Maitland Hunter Isuzu UTE (02) 4035 9300
Young McAlister Isuzu UTE (02) 6382 3033
Mackay Mackay Isuzu UTE (07) 4961 8590
Cheltenham Booran Isuzu UTE (03) 9581 8200
Bordertown Wise Isuzu UTE (08) 8752 0633
Maddington Maddington Isuzu UTE (08) 9492 0000
Moree Hill Fitzsimmons Isuzu UTE (02) 6752 1777
QLD
Maroochydore Pacific Isuzu UTE (07) 5430 1555
Dandenong Patterson Cheney Isuzu UTE (03) 9215 2300
Burton North East Burton Isuzu UTE (08) 8280 9899
Mandurah Mandurah Isuzu UTE (08) 9587 9999
Maryborough Bay City Isuzu UTE (ASO) (07) 4123 0000
Echuca Echuca Isuzu UTE (03) 5480 3611
Christies Beach Wayne Phillis Isuzu UTE (1300) 97 28 76
Merredin Merredin Isuzu UTE (ASO) (08) 9041 4444
Moorooka Moorooka Isuzu UTE (07) 3373 0777
Essendon Fields Essendon Isuzu UTE (03) 9937 7688
Hampstead Gardens North East Isuzu UTE (08) 8261 6006
Midland Midland Isuzu UTE (08) 9273 0030
Moranbah Moranbah Discount Tyre & Mechanical (IASF) (07) 4941 7313
Ferntree Gully Ferntree Gully Isuzu UTE (03) 9758 0000
Kadina Peninsula Isuzu UTE (08) 8821 1022
Narrogin Edwards Isuzu UTE (08) 9881 5555
Frankston Frankston Isuzu UTE (03) 9599 2123
Maitland Peninsula Isuzu UTE (ASF) (08) 8832 2725
Newman Pilbara Isuzu UTE (ASF) (08) 9154 3600
Geelong Rex Gorell Isuzu UTE (03) 5227 4747
Mount Gambier Mt Gambier Isuzu UTE (08) 8725 7999
Northam Avon Valley Isuzu UTE (08) 9621 4000
Horsham Horsham City Isuzu UTE (03) 5382 4677
Murray Bridge Murray Bridge Isuzu UTE (08) 8531 0044
Osborne Park Osborne Park Isuzu UTE (08) 6559 0900
Lilydale Genesis Motors Isuzu UTE (03) 9879 7776
Port Augusta North East Port Augusta Isuzu UTE (08) 8643 6233
Rockingham Bergmans Isuzu UTE (08) 9527 8883
Moss Vale Harrigan Moss Vale Isuzu UTE (02) 4868 3580 Mudgee Mudgee Isuzu UTE (02) 6372 1766 Muswellbrook Wideland Isuzu UTE (ASF) (02) 6543 3066 Narellan Narellan Isuzu UTE (02) 4623 5582 Newcastle Newcastle City Isuzu UTE (02) 4989 5818 North Parramatta Parramatta Isuzu UTE (02) 8886 1052 Nowra Shoalhaven Isuzu UTE (02) 4421 0122 Orange Orange Isuzu UTE (02) 6362 8100 Pennant Hills Pennant Hills Isuzu UTE (02) 9479 9566 Penrith Sinclair Isuzu UTE (02) 4721 9143 Port Macquarie John Patrick Isuzu UTE (02) 6584 1800 Ryde Ryde Isuzu UTE (02) 9850 1222 Scone Wideland Isuzu UTE (02) 6544 3300 Sutherland Sutherland Isuzu UTE (02) 9524 6111 Tamworth Woodleys Isuzu UTE (02) 6763 1500
Arundel Gold Coast Isuzu UTE (07) 5583 9320 Atherton John Cole Isuzu UTE (07) 4030 5590 Ayr Burdekin Isuzu UTE (07) 4783 7077 Beaudesert Beaudesert Isuzu UTE (07) 5540 1050 Blackwater Coalfields Mechanical & Towing Pty Ltd (IASF) (07) 4982 5243 Brendale Brendale Isuzu UTE (07) 3490 6690
Noosaville Pacific Isuzu UTE (ASO) (07) 5335 8333
Cairns Trinity Isuzu UTE (07) 4081 5030
Nundah Nundah Isuzu UTE (07) 3635 5100
Caloundra Caloundra Isuzu UTE (07) 5322 5655 Cleveland Keema Cleveland Isuzu UTE (07) 3479 9888 Dalby Black Dalby Isuzu UTE (07) 4669 8988 Dysart Sharpâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Heavy Equipment Repairs (IASF) (07) 4941 2800
Emerald Emerald Isuzu UTE (07) 4980 7930 Gladstone Reef City Isuzu UTE (07) 4971 4000
Taree Mid Coast Isuzu UTE (02) 6592 6300
Goondiwindi Black Goondiwindi Isuzu UTE (07) 4671 3512
Tweed Heads Tweed Coast Isuzu UTE (07) 5589 7788
Gympie Gympie Isuzu UTE (07) 5480 5200
Wagga Wagga Wagga Motors Isuzu UTE (02) 6933 0100
Hervey Bay Bay City Isuzu UTE (07) 4124 0000
Warwick Farm Peter Warren Isuzu UTE (02) 9828 8888
Indooroopilly Westpoint Isuzu UTE (07) 3878 0440
Windsor Sinclair Windsor Isuzu UTE (02) 4555 7700
Ipswich Blue Ribbon Isuzu UTE (07) 3288 6600
Wyong Wyong Isuzu UTE 1300 109 735
Kingaroy Ken Mills Isuzu UTE (07) 4164 9285
ASO = Authorised Satellite Outlet / ASF = Authorised Service Facility
Mount Gravatt Keema Mt Gravatt Isuzu UTE (07) 3426 1500 Mt Isa Mt Isa Isuzu UTE (07) 4743 0347
Bundaberg Bundaberg Isuzu UTE (07) 4152 0000
Eagle Farm Brisbane Isuzu UTE (07) 3866 2200
Morayfield Keystar Isuzu UTE (ASO) (07) 3448 1030
Rockhampton Tropical Isuzu UTE (07) 4931 9333 Roma Black Goondiwindi Isuzu UTE (ASO) (07) 4624 4800 Rothwell Keystar Isuzu UTE (07) 3480 8600 Springwood Keema Springwood Isuzu UTE (07) 3884 8300 Toowoomba Black Isuzu UTE (07) 4631 4200 Townsville Townsville Isuzu UTE (07) 4750 0300 Warwick Warwick Automotive Isuzu UTE (07) 4660 2000
VIC Bairnsdale Peter Dullard Isuzu UTE (03) 5152 0100 Ballarat Ballarat Isuzu UTE (03) 5335 3600 Bendigo Central Victorian Isuzu UTE (03) 5449 4500 Bundoora Northern Isuzu UTE (03) 9466 5855 Caroline Springs Lakeside Isuzu UTE (03) 9021 3899
Melton Harrison Isuzu UTE (03) 8722 7788 Mildura Autosynergy Isuzu UTE (03) 5022 0927 Mornington Mornington Isuzu UTE (03) 5975 5188 Nunawading Eastside Isuzu UTE (03) 8814 6288 Pakenham Pakenham Isuzu UTE (03) 5922 4111 Shepparton Ken Muston Isuzu UTE (03) 5821 6688 Stawell Horsham City Isuzu UTE (ASF) (03) 5358 2144 Swan Hill Holts Isuzu UTE (03) 5032 1064 Traralgon Gippsland Isuzu UTE (03) 5175 8060 Wangaratta Wangaratta Isuzu UTE (03) 5722 2000 Warrnambool Warrnambool Isuzu UTE (03) 5561 6000 Werribee Werribee Isuzu UTE (03) 8734 4850
Port Lincoln Mike Raleigh Isuzu UTE (08) 8683 1211 Tanunda Jarvis Isuzu UTE (1300) 13 77 74 Victor Harbor Victor Harbor Isuzu UTE (08) 8552 7033 Wayville Australian Motors Isuzu UTE (1300) 04 57 18
WA Albany Albany Autos Isuzu UTE (08) 9842 5522 Bibra Lake Major Motors Isuzu UTE (08) 9331 9331 Broome Broome Isuzu UTE (08) 9193 6155 Bunbury South West Isuzu UTE (08) 9724 8444 Burswood Burswood Isuzu UTE (08) 6164 1050 Esperance Albany Autos Isuzu UTE (ASO) (08) 9071 1060 Geraldton Geraldton Isuzu UTE (08) 9964 2323
SA
Kalgoorlie Goldfields Isuzu UTE (08) 9021 5888
Albert Park Portside Isuzu UTE (08) 8345 7450
Karratha Pilbara Isuzu UTE (ASF) (08) 9185 2100
Berri Chris Sinko Isuzu UTE (08) 8582 2933
Kununurra Kununurra Isuzu UTE (ASF) (08) 9169 4900
South Hedland Pilbara Isuzu UTE (08) 9174 2200 Wanneroo Wanneroo Isuzu UTE (08) 9403 9403
TAS Burnie Gowans Isuzu UTE (03) 6431 5677 Devonport Gowans Isuzu UTE (ASO) (03) 6424 5177 Hobart Jackson Hobart Isuzu UTE (03) 6277 6600 Launceston Jackson Launceston Isuzu UTE (03) 6323 7000
ACT Belconnen National Capital Isuzu UTE (02) 6256 3321 Phillip John McGrath Isuzu UTE (ASO) (02) 5114 1675 Queanbeyan John McGrath Isuzu UTE (02) 6173 9900
NT Alice Springs Centralian Motors Isuzu UTE (08) 8952 2333 Darwin Darwin Isuzu UTE (08) 8924 8600 Katherine Katherine Isuzu UTE (ASF) (08) 8974 0000
Effective as of 31/05/2019. Please visit our website isuzuute.com.au/dealers for the latest dealer contact details.
GO YOUR OWN WAY IN THE LIMITED EDITION ISUZU D-MAX X-RUNNER Freestyle through every adventure in the Isuzu D-MAX X-RUNNER! Featuring the legendary Isuzu 3-litre turbo diesel engine with 430Nm of torque and an intuitive 6-speed transmission. Available in Magnetic Red mica and Pearl White, the Isuzu D-MAX X-RUNNER is packed with accessories like a satin black sports bar, rear park assist sensors, unique X-RUNNER styling inside and out! Plus top of the range features including push button start, SatNav and a reversing camera. The Isuzu D-MAX X-RUNNER has everything you need to make your next adventure stand out from the crowd. GO YOUR OWN WAY! Discover the Isuzu D-MAX X-RUNNER at your Isuzu UTE Dealer or xrunner.com.au
^6 years/150,000km (whichever occurs first), for Eligible Vehicles with a Warranty Start Date on or after 1/1/19. Excludes trays & accessories. <6 years Roadside Assistance (unlimited kilometres) for Eligible Vehicles with a Warranty Start Date on or after 1/1/19. >The Capped Price Servicing Program (â&#x20AC;&#x153;CPS Programâ&#x20AC;?) applies to Eligible Vehicles at Participating Isuzu UTE Dealers only. For 19MY & later vehicle models, the Capped Price Servicing covers the first 7 Scheduled Services for up to 7 years/105,000km (whichever occurs first). CPS Program is subject to change. For full terms & conditions, current pricing & model eligibility visit isuzuute.com.au/service-plus-disclaimer.