max*d Issue 24

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GO YOUR OWN WAY ISSUE 24

WESTERN Up to your axles in freedom on Australia’s ancient and inspiring west coast

CASTING CALL

The man who visited every beach in Australia

STAR

PRISCILLA, QUEEN OF THE D-MAX

Great road trips from film

PULLING POWER

Long-haul towing for beginners


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CONTENTS

S I H T IN

E U ISS FEATURES

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The lap of the gods A flying tilt around Queensland’s Norwell Motorplex with young SuperUtes hero Tom Alexander.

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COVER STORY

Australia’s breadth and beauty makes it perfect for a travelling film. Retrace these famous journeys for yourself.

The Coral Coast

Movie road trips

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Mungo Brush It’s not Basil’s caveman brother, it’s a sand and surf wonderland in NSW’s spectacular Myall Lakes— and it’s waiting for you.

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Kissed by the sun setting over the Indian Ocean is Australia’s rugged western shoulder—our most isolated and inspiring coastline. Now go see it for yourself.


UP FRONT 06 Readers’ Rides Tales of action and adventure from Australia’s own-way-going D-MAX and MU-X community. .

08 News Despatches from the front line of Isuzu UTE Australia.

10 Wishlist The jumbuck tucker-bagging swagmen may be gone, but the swags remain. These are the best.

12 Tech Head A no-nonsense beginner’s guide to long-distance towing.

MIDDLE GROUND 36 The List IMPORTANT NOTICE Subscribe now to receive future editions!

SUBSCRIBE / CHANGE OF ADDRESS / REMOVAL FROM MAILING LIST To ensure you receive your next edition of max*d magazine in the format (print or digital) that best suits you, and to make sure we have your most up-to-date contact details, please visit isuzuute.com.au/subscribe

A lap of the continent freshly completed, TV fishing superstar Andrew Hart lists Australia’s top land-based spots to wet a line.

40 Unsung Hero Meet double organ recipient Megan McLoughlin. She helps transplant families cope with heartbreaking trauma.

42 Hook, Line & Sinker The boys’ circuit of the country concludes. Get inspired!

44 Refuel Are you the type of diner who reckons entrées and mains are just precursors to dessert? Good.

47 Flashback The Isuzu Trooper.

OUTBACK 48 Dealer List Find your Isuzu UTE dealer.

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GO YOUR

OWN WAY GET OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN THE 3-LITRE, 430NM, 6-SPEED ISUZU D-MAX & MU-X The Isuzu D-MAX and MU-X are stand out performers on or off-road. With the legendary Isuzu 3-litre turbo diesel engine, 430Nm of torque and an intuitive 6-speed transmission across the range. Coupled with 4x4 Terrain Command and outstanding towing capacity, the D-MAX and MU-X have everything you need for any adventure. GO YOUR OWN WAY! Discover the Isuzu D-MAX & MU-X at your Isuzu UTE Dealer or isuzuute.com.au

5-star ANCAP safety rating on all MU-X models & 4x4 D-MAX Crew Cab models built from November 2013 onwards & 4x2 D-MAX Crew Cab High Ride models built from November 2014 onwards. ^6 years/150,000km (whichever occurs first), for Eligible Vehicles with a Warranty Start Date on or after 1/1/19. Excludes trays & accessories. <6 years Roadside Assistance (unlimited kilometres) for Eligible Vehicles with a Warranty Start Date on or after 1/1/19. >The Capped Price Servicing Program (“CPS Program�) applies to Eligible Vehicles at Participating Isuzu UTE Dealers only. For 19MY & later vehicle models, the Capped Price Servicing covers the first 7 Scheduled Services for up to 7 years/105,000km (whichever occurs first). CPS Program is subject to change. For full terms & conditions, current pricing & model eligibility visit isuzuute.com.au/service-plus-disclaimer.


WELCOME

WELCOME

to the 24th edition of max*d magazine!

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hat an honour it is to be back once again, penning this welcome for the latest edition of max*d magazine. Having lived in Australia for over eight months now, I have been overwhelmingly delighted to have witnessed the sheer love that our Aussie customers have for our D-MAX and MU-X and how well they have been recognised in the Australian market. Having now grown accustomed to everything this country has to offer, it is easy for me to see why our Isuzu vehicles are so loved. Our Aussie drivers are after a vehicle that offers the no-nonsense durability and reliability they need to be able to cover the vast landscapes Australia is renowned for. We are glad to be able to offer this perfect match to suit your needs and appreciate your continued support for our beloved D-MAX and MU-X throughout 2019. You may recall that in May we welcomed our 2019 Model Year vehicles (19MY) to Australian shores, as well as the reinvigorated Limited Edition D-MAX X-RUNNER, which boasted a variety of

exclusive features to complement the D-MAX’s boldness. Since then, we have been overwhelmed by the love our customers have given to 19MY and the promising reviews they have received within the Australian motoring media for their toughness, practicality and reliability. Not only that, but the 19MY models have positioned themselves as worthy contenders for some of the most popular accolades within the industry. The D-MAX was in the running this year to become CarsGuide’s ‘Tradie Car of the Year’, reminding car-lovers that capability is not just a numbers game. We also have great news about the MU-X, with our beloved family SUV receiving the honour of being nominated for Drive’s Car Of The Year Awards for 2019. To top it off, in June and August it outsold other selective competitors to take out 3rd position within its category— a promising notion that Isuzu UTE continues to grow as a valuable competitor with the support of our loyal customers. But what would new updates and success be without new adventures? Isuzu UTE Australia (IUA) has put our workhorses to great use in the last six months at a number of events and I-Venture Club (IVC) trips. Featured in this issue, you will see that in August we ventured far, far west to the beautiful Coral Coast of Western Australia. With a contingent of media and devoted customers travelling by our side, we managed to see the sights and conquer the landscapes in and around Kalbarri—declaring this location as a must-do for all keen 4WDers. The I-Venture doesn’t end

there. After just completing their hugely popular lap of the country (covered in this issue), our friends over at Hook, Line and Sinker will be joining us on another expedition in March next year as we venture across the Bass Strait to angler’s heaven—tackling the terrains of Tasmania and treating ourselves to a spot of fishing along the way. We have also seen incredible on-track victories this year. Ross Stone Racing’s Tom Alexander steered his Caltex Delo® Racing Isuzu D-MAX SuperUte to an emphatic 2019 ECB SuperUtes Series championship—a stunning result in Tom’s first season with the brand. As you will see on page 15 of this issue, IUA held a SuperUte Track Day Experience in partnership with Ross Stone Racing and Caltex Australia, offering attendees the chance to ride shotgun with Tom as he raced around the track at Norwell Motorplex at hair-raising speed. Although the market had its challenges for all brands this year, we are pleased to know that our tough-as-nails Isuzu vehicles continue to hold high praise with our customers and the media, which has helped us maintain our position as the 13th largestselling automotive brand in Australia, and only look to further our efforts coming into 2020. For now, I wish you all safe and happy holidays and I look forward to you joining us as we venture into another year of great success.

Hiroyasu Sato Managing Director Isuzu UTE Australia maxd@iua.net.au max*d

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READERS’ RIDES

READERS’ RIDES

Pack your bags, go your own way—then tell us where you’ve been, and win! ADAM REID LIVES: NEWCASTLE, NSW DRIVES: 2012 D-MAX 4X4 LS-U “I bought my trusty D-MAX new in August 2013, initially just so I could ferry my quad bike around for weekend adventures. I looked at all the ute options you could buy and the D-MAX just stood out in terms of value, style and reliability. But it wasn’t until I started working as support crew for the annual Cancer Council fundraiser, the Shitbox Rally, that I really understood just how reliable the old girl is. I’ve taken it through every state and capital across Australia while participating in the rally— and sometimes I’m towing up to three tonnes as I go. And that’s on some of the most challenging, most infamous dirt roads and tracks on the continent. With 130,000km on the clock it still hasn’t missed a beat. I couldn’t be happier—and, in fact, even my fiancé has fallen in love with the D-MAX. Now she has her heart set on an MU-X!”

BRETT LOELIGER LIVES: MARIBYRNONG, VIC DRIVES: 2018 MU-X 4X4 LS-T

“Being recently retired, my wife and I decided to treat ourselves by heading off in our recently acquired, compactbut-capable caravan—with the plan to eventually circumnavigate Australia. The only thing we were missing was the tow vehicle! A friend had told me about the MU-X back in 2017, so early this year I purchased a new MU-X a few months before relocating the van from Brisbane. Since sitting in the driver’s seat I haven’t looked back! It just keeps getting better with great fuel economy, good ride and excellent versatility. And it just tows the caravan effortlessly. We’ve found that the MU-X is more than up to the task, and a lot more, as we continue to travel and experience more of our beautiful country. The photo was taken at Rochester, Victoria. It’s definitely worth a stop!”

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RICK SMOLENAARS LIVES: MOAMA, NSW / DRIVES: 2017 MU-X 4X4 LS-T “We love our MU-X! We’ve had it for 18 months and we couldn’t be happier with its performance in terms of ride, handling and fuel economy— and its towing capability is just outstanding. It’s so economical. Our last trip was touring right round the Eyre Peninsula, including the Whalers Way, where this picture was taken—we absolutely loved it there. We’ve done a bit of alpine country four-wheel driving, as well, which was a big factor in buying the MU-X. Next up is up to NSW for the Blue Mountains!”

PETER BLOOMFIELD LIVES: BACCHUS MARSH, VIC DRIVES: 2016 D-MAX 4X4 LS-U “We spent four months doing 9,000km around Tasmania—and it wasn’t long enough! We abseiled off the Gordon Dam wall, 140m down the bottom, and cruised up the Arthur River, which is totally untouched by logging or anything; just pristine. Then we came back, bought a new van—one with a shower and a toilet—and headed up to Darwin via South Australia. Woomera, Alice Springs, Coober Pedy and Kakadu, the 700km dirt road out to Nhulunbuy and the Gibb River Road! That’s a total of 45,000km in 16 months and the D-MAX didn’t miss a beat.”

CHRIS & EMMA STOCKBRIDGE LIVES: CANBERRA, ACT DRIVES: 2017 MU-X 4X4 LS-T “I was on the River Island I-Venture Club course in March—I reckon it’s probably the best Christmas present I’ve ever received. Since then we’ve gotten out and about as much as we can. This photo was taken on the summit of Mount Coree, in the Brindabella National Park—something we’d never have attempted before. My wife didn’t like the low-range last push up the very steep and rocky incline—she thought we should just walk it. But the kids thought it was great! We’re looking forward to exploring much more of the Namadgi National Park and the Brindabellas as soon as we can.”

SCORE A $100 GIFT CARD FROM OUR MATES AT BCF

Simply send us a high-resolution image and a 100-word blurb, along with your VIN, name, contact details, suburb and model of your D-MAX or MU-X, to maxd@iua.net.au

Featured Readers’ Rides will receive a $100 BCF Gift Card Disclaimer: Non-genuine aftermarket accessories and modifications are not recommended or endorsed by Isuzu UTE Australia. For detailed info on ‘what is’ and ‘what is not’ covered by the Manufacturer’s Warranty please refer to the Warranty and Service Booklet.

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NEWS PUBLISHER Isuzu UTE Australia Pty Ltd ISUZU UTE AUSTRALIA MANAGING EDITORS Mark Harman, Madelaine Walsh maxd@iua.net.au EDITOR Ben Smithurst ben.smithurst@edge.agency SUB-EDITOR Paul Rodger ART DIRECTOR Guy Pendlebury ACCOUNT MANAGER Daphne Zhang ADVERTISING SALES Nicole Prioste nicole.prioste@edge.agency MANAGING PARTNERS Fergus Stoddart, Richard Parker

max*d is published on behalf of Isuzu UTE Australia Pty Ltd by

Level 4, 10–14 Waterloo Street, Surry Hills NSW 2010 Phone: +61 2 8962 2600 edge.agency

Disclaimer: The information included in this magazine is intended for interest only. The opinions and views expressed in this magazine are provided in the writers’ personal capacities and are their sole responsibility. Their publication does not imply that they represent the views or opinions of Isuzu UTE Australia or Edge and must neither be regarded as constituting advice on any matter nor be interpreted as such. The reproduction of advertisements in this publication does not in any way imply endorsement by Isuzu UTE Australia or Edge of products or services referred to therein. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. A selection of the images featured in this publication has been sourced from Getty Images and Thinkstock Images. Business Essentials trading as Edge ABN 22 062 493 869.

max*d magazine is proudly printed in Australia using renewable resources. Hanno Gloss is an FSC Mixed Sources Certified paper, which ensures that all virgin pulp is derived from well-managed forests and controlled sources. It contains elemental chlorine-free bleached pulp and is manufactured by an ISO 14001 certified mill.

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Isuzu UTE Australia partners with Mat Rogers and Chloe Maxwell Isuzu UTE Australia (IUA) has entered into a two-year partnership with former dual international rugby league and union player Mat Rogers and Australian media personality Chloe Maxwell. In 2009, the couple co-founded their charity 4 ASD Kids—a non-profit organisation established to assist families with the challenges of living with a child with autism. Their own son, Max, was diagnosed with an Autism Spectrum Disorder (ASD) when he was two-and-a-half. The couple has helped raise over $2 million for the cause, contributing to help place children with ASD into early intervention programs to help them assimilate into everyday life. Mat, Chloe and their kids look to promote this cause in their D-MAX and MU-X—spreading their message, empowering other families to meet their challenges and recognising the joys that come with undertaking that journey. “Max has taught me more than anyone else,” says Mat. “I used to be about what I could make and get. Now it’s about what I can do and give.” To find out more, visit www.4asdkids.gofundraise.com.au/cms/home.

Isuzu D-MAX SuperUte wins 2019 ECB SuperUte Championship Caltex Delo® Racing D-MAX SuperUte driver Tom Alexander has taken out the 2019 ECB SuperUtes Championship. Alexander finished 67 points clear of the Mitsubishi Triton of closest rival Cameron Crick. “It feels amazing to win,” said Alexander, after the final in Newcastle. “Obviously this weekend was fantastic, but winning a race at Bathurst and setting the lap record was the biggest highlight of the year.” Alexander made the switch from a Holden Colorado to a Ross Stone Racing prepared Isuzu D-MAX at the end of the inaugural SuperUtes Series in 2018. The young Kiwi immediately proved the new diesel dual-cab ute’s pace by securing second place in the opening round at the Superloop Adelaide 500 in March, before winning the PIRTEK Perth SuperNight round in May 2019. From there, Alexander spent the entire SuperUtes season on the podium. His 2019 campaign peaked with pole position and the round win at the Vodafone Gold Coast 600 in October 2019, and a dominant display at the Supercheap Auto Bathurst 1000 earlier that same month. As the checkered flag fell, Alexander finished Race 2 a colossal 2 minutes and 13 seconds ahead of second-placed Craig Woods in his Toyota HiLux. With a mooted category switch from factory-fitted diesel to a controlled-class V8 petrol engine in 2020, neither Tom Alexander nor Ross Stone Racing have confirmed whether they will defend their SuperUtes Championship next year.


NEWS

‘Tow your own way’ at I-Venture Club Recognising that half of all D-MAX and MU-X owners use their Isuzus to tow, IUA has trialled a towing I-Venture Club course to expand its existing (and very successful) offering of courses. Available exclusively to Isuzu owners, the single-day program includes a combination of theory and practical experience, offering participants the chance to learn about safe hitching and unhitching practices, braking techniques and basic on-road and towing dynamics. Established in 2015, the I-Venture Club has travelled right across the nation, allowing owners to experience all the sights Australia has to offer. At the same time they have gained valuable driving knowledge from our expert 4WD instructors. Check out: iventureclub.com.au or email iventureclub@iua.net.au for more details.

Red-y for action: Day for Daniel 2019 In loving memory of Daniel Morcombe, the Daniel Morcombe Foundation’s (DMF) ‘Day for Daniel’ is held on the last Friday of October each year. The occasion marks the charity’s national day of fundraising and generates awareness for child safety and protection. Participants are encouraged to wear red—the signature colour of DMF—in recognition of the cause. On Friday, 25 October 2019, IUA was proud to bolster its partnership support by providing an additional fleet of three Isuzu MU-X SUVs, each finished in red—the signature colour of the not-for-profit organisation. Since 2013, IUA has supported the Foundation by providing a DMF-branded Isuzu MU-X so organisers can tow the charity’s trailer, filled with educational resources, from town to town. Isuzu UTE is proud to join the nation in standing behind Daniel’s parents, Bruce and Denise, as they continue to deliver their safety curriculum across Australia. To get involved, visit danielmorcombefoundation.com.au.

Introducing the limited edition D-MAX X-RIDER The limited edition D-MAX X-RIDER is built on the proven SX 4x4 platform and features added accessories and exclusive styling. Available with either manual or automatic 6-speed transmissions, the 19MY Isuzu D-MAX X-RIDER 4x4 boasts exclusive 16” Gunmetal Grey Alloy Wheels wrapped in All-Terrain tyres, a Black Sports Bar, Black ‘X’ Embossed Door Mouldings, ‘Blacked-Out’ B Pillar Film and unique X-RIDER Decal on the tailgate. With its additional Isuzu UTE Genuine Accessories and X-RIDER branding, this limited edition D-MAX offers discerning customers the chance to stand out from the crowd in signature style.

FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM

If you want to keep up with all things Isuzu UTE, make sure you’re following us on our social pages! facebook.com/isuzuute Instagram: @isuzuute_aus max*d

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WISHLIST

J O HAVE A L L Y GOOD TIME

Immortalised in a song about an opportunistic sheep thief that some say should be the national anthem, swags are a great way to kip in the bush. (Note: avoid billabongs.) WORDS GREGOR STRONACH

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TRUE BLUE MULGA TRADITIONAL

At the cheap-and-cheerful end of the spectrum is the True Blue Mulga Traditional, which offers a bare bones experience for proper rugged bushmen. The super-easy ‘unroll it just about anywhere’ set-up is ideal for the lazy camper who doesn’t want to deal with hassles such as zips, and it has a serviceable 50mm, high-density mattress built in to smooth out most of the bumps. Only mildly uncomfortable to sleep in, if you’re a bit soft, or fine if you’re not, it will keep you and your sleeping bag dry through the night unless you literally plonk it down in a puddle or are caught in the most torrential of downpours. It does what it says on the side of the box: it’s the rough and ready, no-frills option. RRP $129.50, wildearth.com.au

Just like normal tents, swags come in a variety of shapes and sizes, such as this beauty from XTM that sleeps two people in relative comfort, or one person whose love of space/thrashing about during dreams means they need a bit more room. It’s made from 400gsm Ripstop polycotton canvas up top, weather-proof PVC flooring to keep the damp out and it’s way, way quicker to put up than a standard two-person tent, provided you don’t want to spend too much time cooped up in there. Ideal for helping convince your partner that sleeping under the stars is a grand idea, or for helping to figure out whether your best mate’s giving you comehither looks over the campfire, or it’s just the barbecue smoke wafting into their eyes. RRP $299.99, bcf.com.au

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XTM 4X4 DOUBLE SWAG

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WANDERER SINGLE HEAVY DUTY EXTREME SWAG

When it comes to choosing a dome swag that won’t cost you a sheep station, Wanderer’s heavyduty offering is a solid option. It’s spacious enough inside that it feels like a tent—and the 80mm built-in mattress is perfect for roughing it in the bush. Insect-proof mesh means you’re far less likely to catch Ross River fever in your sleep, while the dome poles keep the roof from caving in and make the whole thing feel a touch less claustrophobic. The polycotton outer layer is weatherproof as well, so you’ll stay dry if the heavens open. Available in either a single or double configuration (for an additional $100), this one is ideal for heading into the wild at a moment’s notice. RRP $299.99, bcf.com.au

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DARCHE AD 1400

The gold standard of swags, the Darche AD 1400 is the top of the line when it comes to quick’n’easy setup-and-pack-down sleeping options for the bush. Featuring an inflatable floor for a super-comfy trip to dreamland, the AD 1400 is the camping equivalent of crawling inside a personalised (if relatively drab-looking) version of Gaddafi’s famous travelling luxo-tent – without the need for fiery rhetoric. With tonnes of ventilation points, two-way entry, storm covers and a hand-pump for rapid inflation, you’ll be asleep before your head hits the pillow—and well before your travel companions stop swearing because they left the tent poles at home. RRP $829.95, darche.com.au

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SWISS TOOL X STOCKIST 1800 808 971 MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE

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ESTABLISHED 1884


TECH HEAD Off-road hero David Wilson explains how to ...

YOUR H C T I H WAGON Long-haul towing may seem terrifying to greenhorns, but it needn’t be, says I-Venture Club’s 4WD guru.

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his August I celebrated two Isuzu I-Venture Club trips in Western Australia with a great bunch of people all sharing a common bond: their love for their D-MAX or MU-X. With the events spaced a fortnight apart it made sense to me that rather than fly over twice, why not drive across from Adelaide—my home base—and tack on some time afterwards? That’s how my wife Rose and I ended up on a near-15,000km return road trip from Adelaide to Exmouth. Our steed? Her mighty MU-X. Perfect. Now, road tripping with a trailer or a van is a different driving experience to towing around town, so you need to keep a few principles in mind. The first is simple: pack light. Space is limited and many first-timers will literally pack 10 times more clothes than they need. So leave as much behind as you can—and then leave a little more. Clothes are bulky and heavy, and if you get caught in something Biblical, most towns have an op shop where you can land a fashion statement for peanuts. Keeping the weight down will help you later—but more on that in a moment. Vehicle preparation is generally a good place to start in earnest. If it’s a really serious trip, and you’re carrying some weight, consider trotting your vehicle down to your local Isuzu UTE dealership for a thorough service before you go. The last thing you want is your 4JJ1 slugging it out into a headwind with dirty oil and filter, or a fuel or air-filter-warning light aglow. A proper check-up might include fresh auto transmission oil and a check of your brakes and suspension, as well as a

look at the condition of your tyres. Without going into too much detail about overloading, you want to make sure your towed vehicle isn’t ridiculously heavy, nor should your Isuzu itself be carrying too many extra kegs. That combo can create all sorts of issues that might leave you stranded. Make sure you are within the GVM (Gross Vehicle Mass) of your ute or wagon and that the GCM (Gross Combination Mass) of your Isuzu and van/camper is within the safe, stated bounds. If you’re in any doubt, take a trip to the local weighbridge. Good tyres are crucial. If your rubber is near worn-out, or unsuited to where you’re going, you’ll be setting a trap for yourself. Switching to a light-truck all-terrain 4WD tyre will give you plenty of peace-of-mind when you’re out on a gravel road or worse. Remember: the standard tyres fitted to your vehicle were designed to appeal to the 90 per cent of folk who don’t go bush. If you’re really going your own way, a decent tyre will give you additional strength when the surfaces are poor and the loads big. Oh, and don’t overlook the valuable pressure advice seen on the vehicle’s tyre placard. Folks have differing opinions on this, but I can swear on a stack of Bibles that I practice what I preach when it comes to those recommendations. Because of it I don’t have tyres that fail and they regularly run right past 80,000km of life, whereas other owners seem to wear them out ahead of time and/or cop plenty of punctures. Isuzu doesn’t recommend using weight distribution hitches or suspension airbags and I understand why. I’ve seen plenty of different makes and models with broken

Unrealistic timeframes are the undoing of trips when you’re flying solo, even without towing a camper or a van. With them, everything takes a bit longer.

chassis. In the case of the weight hitches, you’ve created a rigid and inflexible coupling—one that’s right at the pivot point between vehicle and van. On an undulating or corrugated surface you need that joint to flex. Without it there’s only so much stress and strain the chassis can take. It’s a similar story with suspension airbags. Once they are partially filled to ‘carry’ the load, the vehicle’s suspension articulation is restricted in its travel. Being unable to compress through its full range means that energy has to be transmitted somewhere—and it’ll be the chassis above or axle tube below that bears the brunt of that force. Our timeframe for our Western Australian jaunt was pretty tight. There was a lot of driving in that space of five weeks, and while we managed to jam plenty into it, we would have liked more time to smell the wildflowers. We had deadlines. You should avoid them. Unrealistic timeframes are the undoing of plenty of trips when you’re flying solo, even without towing a camper or a van. With them, everything takes a bit longer. If you’re doing the planning and thinking about 800km transport days, wind that back to 500–600km distances. That way, when ‘four-o’clock-flatfoot’ comes around—that time of day when travellers start getting anxious about locating a campsite, and the speed goes up as the sun goes down—you’ll have some time in reserve. It shouldn’t be just about beer and skittles either. And this is where my years of experience really tell. Try to find a place in your vehicle for a chiller—I like an ARB Elements fridge—to load with essential foodstuffs, such as a selection of good cheese to go with some fine South Australian wine. When you’ve parked atop that sand dune and you’re watching the sun go down on yet another ripper day you need to celebrate it. Cheers!

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INSIDE LINE

SPEED RACER

If you think the SuperUtes are anything less than brutal, you probably haven’t seen them—and you definitely haven’t sat beside Tom Alexander. WORDS TIM VAN DUYL IMAGES MARK HARMAN

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bit dull. Sonically uninspiring. The race series equivalent of a farmer pootling across the top paddock with a tray full of stock feed, an open copy of The Land on his lap and the sun in his eyes. I’d never paid much (or any) attention to the national ECB SuperUtes championship and so, prior to visiting the 4km loop of the Norwell Motorplex, on the northern Gold Coast, Queensland, this is how I’d thought of it. Low energy. Low adrenaline. Low speed. My mistake. Sitting beside series-leading driver (as we go to print) Tom Alexander in his Caltex

Delo® sponsored D-MAX SuperUte race car, it didn’t even take me half a lap to realise how wrong I was. And to wonder— simultaneously, as it happens—if I’d brought a spare set of trousers. But more on that in a minute. Isuzu UTE Australia had offered the chance for a small group of journos to visit Queensland to practice their off-roading skills, to tackle the skid pan with Team D-MAX and to experience a hot lap with Tom. Wondering if I’d been missing something, I jumped at the chance. To get the initial part out of the way first: a nightmare course through muddy

waterholes, axle-twisting rocks and steep descents allowed the Isuzu’s capabilities to shine. Then the skidpan was a riot— all squealing tyres and banter. But soon enough I was being strapped in beside the young Kiwi ute-piloting prodigy. He’d definitely looked quick as I’d watched him on his sighting laps: the blue-liveried D-MAX SuperUte hammering through the bends, the engine’s deep roar only briefly cut by quick gear changes along the two main straights. He was fast. Ross Stone—Tom’s boss, of Ross Stone Racing, who’s led a team to victory at the Bathurst 1000—had told me what to

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INSIDE LINE

expect. We’d take a warm-up lap, at maybe 80 per cent of race pace, followed by a flying lap and a cool-down lap. But 80 per cent felt like an understatement; we shot out of the pits like a startled rabbit. Even the best combination of wordy words could not come close to doing the next few minutes of my life justice. Tom’s speed out of the pits was furious and his entry into the first sweeper had me tense. We weren’t in Kansas for a while there, that’s for sure, but what a ride. Tom picked every apex and used every millimetre of the track like he had grown up on Norwell. He had the race-spec Yokohama tyres howling by turn three as he pulled every rev he could out of each gear. Braking was immense and body roll measured and controlled. This D-MAX really is a proper race car, but all too soon Tom backed off and turned for the pits. The adrenaline began to recede, so I began to jabber questions at Tom and Ross. With Ross’s history in Supercars, GT3 and more, why SuperUtes? “It’s the most

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market-relevant series,” explained Stone, straight and to-the-point. The production D-MAX isn’t that far removed from the race truck, Ross said. The main differences relate to safety and parts designed to bring the category closer together in terms of performance, while simultaneously keeping costs down. They have a weight minimum of 1800kg and are capped to power and torque limits of 253kW (340bhp) and 677Nm (500 ft/lb) respectively. Any punter could build his or her own if they had the inclination. What did Tom think of Norwell? He enjoyed the track for its tight and


INSIDE LINE

Kiwi young gun Tom Alexander

SuperUtes is “the most market-relevant series,” says a karate-chopping Ross Stone.

twisty layout, he said, but wouldn’t race door-to-door. “It was fun in the back sections, linking up the corners. There is a lot of grip, but it’s too small to race on.” The D-MAX, says Tom, is best suited to fast and flowing circuits like Perth, or the daddy of them all, Bathurst. Proving the pace of the D-MAX, Tom was able to run in the low 2 min 30 second mark on the Mountain, which, as a comparison, is much quicker than 1970 pole sitter and legend Allan Moffat managed in his factory-supported Ford Falcon. Who said utes can’t be fast? Me. I was wrong.

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COVER STORY

WESTERN ISU

ZU

C O RUTE I-VEN A L C TURE O A S CLUB, T

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COVER STORY

WORDS & IMAGES CARLISLE ROGERS

I-Venture’s Coral Coast trip finds true freedom where the remote Australian desert meets the Indian Ocean.

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COVER STORY

I

nspirational types say that the truest freedom is the freedom from fear—and nothing kills fear quicker than knowledge. Out here on the western edge of the continent, across pale dunes, jagged desert coastlines and blood-red bluffs, a plucky band of Isuzu owners has been learning to conquer their anxiety—to master the off-road—in one of Australia’s most pristine landscapes. Stretching from Cervantes in the south to Exmouth in the north, WA’s Coral Coast is a wild, 1100km run, an endlessly variegated coastal verge taking in ancient landscapes that seem to shift and change as quickly as we change gears in our D-MAXs and MU-Xs. The mission at the heart of these trips is simple: to instill a sense of adventure, and ultimately, self-reliance, in the participants. This part of the country is the perfect place to accomplish both, with the added bonus of being hemmed in by astounding natural beauty.

The mission at the heart of these trips is to instill a sense of adventure, and ultimately, self-reliance, in the participants.

BUSH HISTORY We began in Geraldton, with many I-Venturers coming from as far afield as the east coast, everyone’s spirits high. Smack in the middle of Geraldton on a hill overlooking Champion Bay is a monument to the HMAS Sydney II. This coast is littered with hapless shipwrecks with Dutch, French and English names, but the sheer scale of the tragedy of the Sydney is unmatched. This tribute in stone and steel stands as a reminder of one awful day: 19 November, 1941. Not far off the coast here, the warship had gone down after a surprise attack and battle with a German raider, taking all 645 crew with it. It remains the nation’s greatest naval tragedy and, in a way, a stark reminder of how remote and unforgiving this coast can be. It’s also where we really began our journey into the beyond. From Geraldton we headed north toward Port Gregory, running up the highway before skirting almost straight west. Just outside of

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town are the Lynton Station ruins, reminders of the convict history of this part of the world, a gnarly set of limestone hulks within which new convicts would be picked for work in the mines or nearby stations. Nothing about the place seems inviting or even what you’d call habitable, and it wasn’t much better back then.

COLOURS OF THE OUTBACK One thing that everyone on the trip loved, not far up the road, was Hutt Lagoon, one of Australia’s most vibrantly coloured pink lakes. While we may be importing pink salt in expensive artisanal packets from as far away as the Himalayas, Australia has a healthy homegrown supply of pink salt lakes that ring the

south and west of the country. The ‘pink’ is the product of secretions by bacteria and algae that thrive in the salt marshes these lakes fill, and while it may not make your food taste any better, these lakes do look fantastic in photos. From pink to blue, we launched our caravan of Isuzus onto the beach at Port Gregory, cutting through white dunes and lime green dune grass northwest, sometimes undulating through bare dune fields, sometimes skirting the turquoise of the Indian Ocean. About half of the guys along for the trip had been on an I-Venture Club trip before, but some of the newcomers were pretty green. And that’s where David Wilson, who has been running I-Venture trips for a few years now, comes in.


COVER STORY

STEVEN AND MICHELLE HEATH 2018 Isuzu D-MAX owners

His esprit de corps, combined with an amazing knowledge of 4WDing and safety, make David not just a good bloke to have around, but it means you’re absolutely going to learn something new about your 4WD. Inevitably, someone always gets stuck on their first day sand driving. It’s just the nature of the beast. But David sees getting bogged as an opportunity and takes the time to walk everyone through any recovery we end up doing, showing them the safe, effective way to handle each situation. Even after spending all day running up and down dunes like turbo-diesel Lawrences of Arabia, nothing can quite prepare you for the pindan cliffs and slamming swell of Kalbarri, a town perched at the edge of nowhere.

THE WILD GETS WILDER Besides being home to a dwindling population of old abalone divers and long-line fishermen, their dilapidated shacks still littering the beaches and cliffs outside of town, Kalbarri is the gateway to some of the wildest country on the west coast. It is the home to the famous Nature’s Window rock formation in the middle of Kalbarri National Park. And like that window, the next two days would give everyone a picture-postcard view of this westside wilderness; a kaleidoscope of sand, stone and water. The hike down to Nature’s Window isn’t too strenuous, and if you’re here to get a great shot, the best time to come is sunset. The rusty, old, blood-coloured

“I think I first noticed the D-MAX on a TV ad and I loved the look of it. Then once we started shopping around properly, Isuzu’s reputation really sealed the deal for us. The chance to come and do an I-Venture Club trip has been so worth it. The trips give ordinary people like us the confidence and competence to begin exploring our amazing country in a whole new way in our vehicles. We came all the way from Wollongong, so it was a bit of an adventure for us before we even started the trip. The biggest thing we learned along the way, I think, is how fun it is to go off-road, and how capable these trucks are. I really loved the pink lake and Nature’s Window, and the instructors were friendly and knowledgeable. We never would have found these places on our own. Next up for us is, I hope … another I-Venture Club trip! The Flinders Ranges, Tasmania and Fraser Island are all on our bucket list now and we can’t wait to start ticking them off!”

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COVER STORY

As each successive Isuzu eventually crests, shouts of triumph and delight fill the airwaves. There’s a wonderful sense of achievement as all the ducklings follow their four-wheeled mother home.

Coral Coast, Western Australia

stone lights up when the setting sun red-shifts, and the dusk paints the entire landscape in oversaturated hues. This part of the world once looked more like Shark Bay than the dry, desolate cliff country it is now. You can see many fine ripples in the layers of flat stone stacked immeasurably in the hills here, and fine tubes of petrified worm casings running through the stone—all evidence that this range of mountains was once at the bottom of a shallow sea. At Nature’s Window, wind and water have worn this ancient stone into strange shapes. None is more famous than this vertical plane of layers with a big viewing hole seemingly punched right through—

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revealing a broad vista out over the Murchison River and beyond.

STATION TO STATION North of Kalbarri National Park lies an expanse of sand and scrub that reaches 60km up the coast and takes in 350,000 acres. This is Murchison House Station. Established a century-and-a-half ago to run sheep and wheat, it still operates, now running cattle and goat. For us, Murchison offered a spider web of 4WD tracks that trace its rivers, creeks and coastline, providing every possible terrain to test out the D-MAXs and MU-Xs in low range. Once we got to the station house,

everyone let some air out of their tyres, and it wasn’t long before David was on the radio directing everyone to drop into low range, and then walking everyone through how to do it. The tracks swiftly graded up, from twin goat tracks through lush river valleys to sheer stone escarpments and jump-ups. Here, life comes at you fast. This is where having a good guide really comes in handy and also where people seem to learn the most about what their 4WDs are capable of. David would guide everyone through the trickier bits and the joy on their faces when they realised that the car they’d never even taken off the tarmac before


COVER STORY

Murchison offered every possible terrain to test out the D-MAXs and MU-Xs.

Stunning Nature’s Window at Kalbarri National Park.

had just climbed a rock ledge that looked impossible, was priceless. We stopped for lunch under a bank of river trees, surrounded by wattle in full flower, and then the adventure began again, tracing lines through the underbrush, up and over steep rocky country and back into vibrant valleys full of wildflowers. Back in town we all shared dinner and a few beers. Everyone buzzed about their favourite moments, about the bits that scared them the most, and how they were definitely coming back for more soon. In the morning, we made our way back out to the station to tackle some even steeper terrain, with the guys getting to test out some of the onboard technology such as downhill assist, and David taking everyone through gear selection and the business of picking the right line over some pretty hairy tracks. Finally we edged our way down to the Indian Ocean, rolling and scrabbling and laughing down steep limestone tracks, until we found another perfect dune field overlooking the ragged ocean. As finales go, they don’t come much better. And this time, watching the guys humming along the windswept landscape, there was something tangibly different about the drivers. They had left their fear back on the asphalt somewhere. They had been baptized in sand and mud, educated and brought into the light of true freedom. But then, that’s what we’re here for, right? To keep in touch with Isuzu Owner events, check out the I-Venture Club website at iventureclub.com.au

ELENA MONACO AND RALPH TREASURE 2018 Isuzu MU-X owners “As far as we’re concerned the MU-X is the best 4WD of the lot in terms of how its suspension goes around Fremantle, which is where we’re based. We love how comfortable the MU-X is around town and it’s just the right size, too, unlike a lot of other 4WDs. It really does well on the rougher terrain; we couldn’t believe how much power it had on stuff steeper than we’ve ever driven on before. The biggest thing we learned out here is that Elena is actually a pretty competent 4WDer, so I have to keep my mouth shut now! Getting to use some of the new technology in the cars for the first time was eye opening. We’re hoping to spend a lot more time off-roading in WA and we have definitely pencilled in another I-Venture Club trip, or two, for the future.”

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Image: courtesy of Icon Film Distribution / Wendy McDougall


OUT OF THE BOX

6 BEST S P I R T ROAD

AUSSIE MOVIES

WORDS OLIVER PFEIFFER

FROM FAMOUS Looking for road trip inspiration? Follow these epic routes laid down in classic Australian cinema!

I

mpulsively taking to the open road to escape the stresses of modern life is an appealing prospect, particularly when you consider the endless opportunities for adventure our vast, beautiful country has to offer those prepared to make the most of their D-MAX or MU-X. On the big screen, the tradition of displaced characters undergoing epic road trips has equally made for entertaining cinema. Whether it’s drag queens embarking on a lively tour through backwaters in a bus, a cabby’s pub-trotting excursion to the Top End, or backpackers journeying through our awe-inspiring Outback,

EY TO SYDNSPRINGS ALICE

OLFE E TO W ER M T O A O BR EEK CR R C

there’s never a dull moment on a great Aussie road trip. Or even on an on- and off-road trip. With adventure on the agenda, we’ve taken six unique Aussie road trips from the silver screen and traced the routes they took along the way. We’ve also suggested some convenient places to camp nearby to enable you to travel in the characters’ tracks—and embark on your very own life-affirming journey. Think of it as going your own way … while going theirs at the same time. Let’s do it.

OOL NAMYBORK R R A W CAPE TO

L EN HIL BROKDARWIN TO

EY TO SYDN ANTLE FREM

ES, RANGALIA S R E FLINDTH AUSTR SOU

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OUT OF THE BOX

SYDNEY TO ALICE SPRINGS The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert (1994)

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HANDY INFO RELEASE DATE SEPTEMBER 1994 STARRING TERENCE STAMP, GUY PEARCE & HUGO WEAVING DIRECTOR STEPHAN ELLIOTT BUDGET $1.8 MILLION

Images: Tourism NT

YOU’D STRUGGLE to find a livelier road trip escapade than the one undertaken by a trio of ABBA-loving drag queens driving a pink bus dubbed ‘Priscilla’ from Sydney to Alice Springs in Stephan Elliott’s hilarious comedy. On their bumpy ride across the Red Centre—should’ve taken a D-MAX— the girls encounter everything from small-minded hostility to love and acceptance in surprising places. The Imperial Hotel in Erskineville, Sydney is where the troupe sets off on their 13-hour journey via the A32 to Broken Hill. They rest to admire the striking horizon of the Mundi Mundi Plains before memorably out-boozing the locals at The Palace Hotel (which maintains an authentic ‘Priscilla Suite’ from the movie). Following the unforgettable spectacle of Felicia (Guy Pearce) miming to Verdi on top of the bus, Priscilla breaks down (definitely should’ve taken a D-MAX), enabling the trio to savour the extraordinary salt-andpepper sight of the Coober Pedy canyons. This is where Bernadette (Terence Stamp) takes a contemplative stroll through the orange, yellow and white hued hills of The Painted Desert. Encompassing a long dark line of mesas, the Mirackina Range, which extends to the west, is an enthralling sight. Eventually resuming their trip, the queens stop over at the Underground Motel before causing commotion at the neighbouring (and still functional) Coober Pedy Drive-In. From here it’s seven and a half hours up National Highway 87 and A87 to Priscilla’s final stop at Alice Springs, where they perform a flamboyant finishing act at Lasseters Hotel Casino. Strictly speaking the real journey’s end is six hours west of Alice, where the trio triumphantly climb the 1000 steps up to the top of the astonishing Kings Canyon. The hike up remains a must-do for any traveller … provided you leave the heels at home and allow ample time for the walk back before sundown.

STAY THE KINGS CREEK CAMPGROUND PAY $25.50 PER ADULT (POWERED), $22 (UNPOWERED) CALL 08 8956 7474 CLICK KINGSCREEKSTATION.COM.AU


OUT OF THE BOX

Wolf Creek (2005)

HANDY INFO

BROOME TO WOLFE CREEK CRATER YOU COULD argue Greg McLean’s hit horror, about backpackers terrorised by a homicidal bushman, discourages travel in our vast Outback. But if you remove the horrible, knifey climax, the characters’ journey to the (curiously misspelt) meteor crater is one well worth taking. The travellers commence their 12-hour trip from Broome via The Great Northern Highway. The DVD commentary reveals that most of the journey was actually shot on the drive up to Flinders Ranges in SA (see Last Ride later in article). However, if you embark on the actual trip (via Halls Creek and the gloriously unsealed Tanami

Road) there are some worthwhile stopovers. To split the journey you could stay at Tarunda Caravan Park at Fitzroy Crossing, and do some fishing at the nearby Fitzroy River. It’s four hours from Broome. Alternatively, continue on for another hour and there’s a short detour from the Great Northern Highway to Mimbi Caves Campground located at the foot of the Emmanuel Ranges. If you’re early enough you can take a guided tour inside the natural geological site. Once at Wolfe Creek Crater National Park, hike along the crater rim and enjoy the spectacular views. There’s a track

RELEASE DATE NOVEMBER 2005 STARRING NATHAN PHILLIPS, CASSANDRA MAGRATH, KESTIE MORASSI & JOHN JARRATT DIRECTOR GREG MCLEAN BUDGET $1 MILLION STAY WOLFE CREEK CRATER CAMPGROUND PAY FREE (HARD TO ACCESS IN WET SEASON) CALL 08 9168 4200 CLICK PARKS.DPAW.WA.GOV.AU

leading to the floor and a steep and rocky 200m return walk to the top. Due to its remote location, the camping ground is basic (bring plenty of water), but it does have bush toilets and is certainly worth an overnight stay. Just don’t get nightmares!

WARRNAMBOOL TO CAPE YORK Image: courtesy of Icon Film Distribution

Charlie & Boots (2009)

HANDY INFO RELEASE DATE SEPTEMBER 2009 STARRING PAUL HOGAN, SHANE JACOBSON, MORGAN GRIFFIN DIRECTOR DEAN MURPHY BUDGET $8 MILLION STAY CAPE YORK CAMPING PUNSAND BAY PAY $18 PER PERSON/PER NIGHT (UNPOWERED) CALL 07 4069 1722 CLICK WWW.CAPEYORKCAMPING.COM.AU

COMEDY LEGENDS Paul Hogan and Shane Jacobson play the titular estranged father and son in this touching road extravaganza. They slowly bond over a 3000km road trip (in a blue Kingswood) from Warrnambool, Victoria to Cape York, Queensland to fish at the northernmost point of Australia. It’s something we recommend doing (see The List feature, page 36). The journey starts at the coastal town of Warrnambool, before stopping at Dadswells Bridge to observe the Giant Koala. From here the pair journey north, stopping overnight at Maryborough, famed for its railway and rich goldfields. The next morning Boots (Jacobson) considers taking the PS Emmylou paddle steamer to cruise the Murray River; however, Charlie (Hogan) opts to visit a nostalgic motoring museum in Echuca. After staying overnight in Hay, in the Southern Riverina of NSW, (followed by an evening’s line-dancing entertainment at

Gilgandra) they visit Australia’s music capital, Tamworth, where their hitchhiking companion Jess performs at the War Memorial Town Hall. Sampling ‘The World’s Thickest Milkshake’ at historic Tenterfield, nestled in the rolling hills of NSW, the lads journey through the Queensland Southern Downs border town of Wallangarra. Thirty kilometres from Tenterfield, on the upper Rocky River, you can camp at various designated areas to discover the beauty that encapsulates the Wunglebung Cattle property. After experiencing the rough and tumble of rodeo in Emerald, Charlie and Boots arrive as close as they can by car to their Cape York destination. During the wet season the river crossings throughout the Old Telegraph Track to Cape York can be 10m deep, making some of the roads inaccessible—even in an MU-X. We suggest engaging 4WD during the dry season (May–October), unless you’re going the scenic Charlie & Boots way via dodgy plane. max*d

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BROKEN HILL TO DARWIN Last Cab to Darwin (2015)

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There’s nothing like endless summer sky, dust in your nostrils and an air-conditioned MU-X.

HANDY INFO RELEASE DATE JUNE 2015 STARRING MICHAEL CATON, MARK COLES SMITH & JACKI WEAVER DIRECTOR JEREMY SIMS BUDGET $3.9 MILLION STAY HALLIGAN BAY POINT, LAKE EYRE PAY $12 A NIGHT (UNPOWERED) CALL 08 8648 5300 CLICK WWW.PARKS.SA.GOV.AU

Image:s courtesy of Icon Film Distribution

AFTER LEARNING he has terminal cancer, cabbie Rex (Michael ‘We’re going to Bonnie Doon!’ Caton) embarks on a 3000km trek from Broken Hill to Darwin to seek voluntary euthanasia. Sound grim? It’s actually a heartfelt odyssey. Departing Broken Hill on the A32, Rex takes the B83 to the South Australian desert town of Marree—once a booming railway settlement. After drinking at the Marree Hotel, he has a walk through the old maroon Ghan railway carriages to observe an idyllic sunset overlooking the neighbouring Hergott Springs.

 The following morning Rex stops a couple of kilometres away at Lake Eyre to take in Australia’s largest salt lake. It’s such a remote area that public access is only possible through a few tracks departing from the historic and legendary Oodnadatta Track. Planning is imperative as the usually dry lake is predominately shallow, so do check in advance for any road closures caused by flooding. After refuelling at the William Creek Hotel, Rex continues on the Oodnadatta Track, passing the iconic Pink Roadhouse. He stops overnight at the unpretentious, tin-roofed Transcontinental Hotel. Continuing on, Rex reaches Alice Springs and observes the dry riverbed of Todd River before disembarking at Todd Tavern. (It’s quite a pubby film.) From Alice it’s over 900km up National Highway 87 before Rex turns off at the historic town of Daly Waters. He passes the Daly Waters Hi-Way Inn and Caravan Park before reaching the Daly Waters Pub—a quirky waterhole where bras drape from the ceiling. Feel free to make a donation. The following day, Rex pulls up at the township of Mataranka. Here he appears to take a therapeutic paddle in the translucent water. However, this is in fact Berry Springs, three-and-a-half hours north of Mataranka via National Highway 1. From here it’s just 40 minutes to journey’s end in Darwin.


Image: courtesy of Icon Film Distribution

OUT OF THE BOX

HANDY INFO RELEASE DATE MAY 2004 STARRING DAMON GAMEAU, STEPHEN CURRY, RYAN JOHNSON, SAM WORTHINGTON DIRECTOR DARREN ASHTON

Thunderstruck (2004)

STAY BUNDA CLIFFS LOOKOUT PAY FREE CLICK WWW.CAMPINGNULLARBORPLAIN.COM

SYDNEY TO FREMANTLE IN THIS energetic comedy, four AC/DCobsessed bandmates embark on a road trip from Sydney all the way to Fremantle Cemetery in WA to fulfil a teenage pact to bury their mate’s ashes next to the grave of AC/DC front man Bon Scott. The mammoth 3900km journey across the Nullarbor via the Eyre Highway is one of Australia’s most extreme road voyages. There’s also good reason why Nullarbor means ‘no tree’ in Latin. However, this shouldn’t deter you from this exhilarating excursion.

While the band only makes the occasional nondescript pit stop, there are far more scenic spots to savour. These include the Murrawijinie Caves 10km west of the Nullarbor Roadhouse in SA and (a couple of hours drive away) the extraordinary sights of the limestone Bunda Cliffs. From here you can observe how the cliffs plunge spectacularly into the Southern Ocean at the Great Australian Bight. The cliffs make for superb self-sufficient camping and all that splendid scenery provides an

inspiring backdrop—often with whales. Alternatively, for equally off-the-beatentrack camping, continue on for just under eight hours and stop at the abandoned town of Dundas for the Dundas Rocks. It’s approximately 20km south of the large mining town of Norseman and is a secluded bush retreat for campers. From here it’s approximately eight hours to Fremantle, where in the movie the lads stage a show-stopping closing concert at Fremantle Cemetery.

FLINDERS RANGES, SOUTH AUSTRALIA Last Ride (2009)

HANDY INFO RELEASE DATE JULY 2009 STARRING HUGO WEAVING, TOM RUSSELL DIRECTOR GLENDYN IVIN BUDGET $3.5 MILLION STAY ARKAROOLA WILDERNESS SANCTUARY CAMPGROUNDS CONTACT 08 8648 4848 WEB ARKAROOLA.COM.AU/ ACCOMMODATION.PHP

THE STUNNINGLY shot adaptation of Denise Young’s acclaimed novel shifted the setting from Broken Hill, NSW to embrace the awe-inspiring South Australian Outback. The Flinders Ranges are a suitably spectacular backdrop for the reckless exploits of troubled, free-spirited father Kev (played by Hugo Weaving) who, along with his 10-year-old son Chook, evades authorities to explore rugged Australia on his own terms. The duo start their road trip from the tiny railway town of Quorn—not the vegetarian meat replacement food—before driving 40km south to reach the tranquil Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, where they set up camp for a couple nights and Kev has a (prohibited) skinny-dip in the creek. Later the duo drive by 4WD on the ultra shallow surface of Lake Gairdner, surrounded by the picturesque red foothills of the Gawler Ranges. It’s a truly mesmerising scene that

ends with Chook left momentarily abandoned to walk the isolated salt lake himself. The main route to this otherworldly vista is via Mount Ive station on a 34km station track. Next stop is north to Pimba for replenishments at Spuds Roadhouse located on the Pimba Road past the Stuart Highway. But the emotional denouement was filmed further east among the dry, rocky plains and suitably stark wilderness of Lake Torrens. max*d

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TRAVELLER

MUNGO

WORDS MARCUS CRAFT

BRUSH

Get some sand under the axles in the Myall Lakes National Park—a sea-and-surf playground within shouting distance of Australia’s largest city.

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TRAVELLER

BEFORE YOU GO Visit the nationalparks.nsw.gov.au website to check on park, camping and beach-driving permits, as well as to keep up-to-date with any park-specific alerts.

W

hen a local fisherman slowly shook his head at us as we trucked past him, we should have known strife was coming. He’d parked on the sand only metres away from where Mungo Beach 4WD access track opened out onto the beach proper. We, however, chugged past the fella, waved (got his lazy head-shake as a response) and continued on. Bad move, because 100 metres or so along the beach one of our convoy – let’s call him ‘Old Mate’ to protect his identity – became well and truly bogged. We should have taken note of the fact that even this local head-shaking bloke hadn’t driven far past the beach start point. But nothing noteworthy has ever been achieved by anyone sensible. Right? Driving on beach sand is a lot of laughs and getting bogged is simply part of the fun—it happens to everyone, no matter how great a 4WDer you are, or think you are. Luckily, my mates and I thoroughly understand this principle. Getting bogged wasn’t really Old Mate’s fault because we had dropped tyre pressures on all three vehicles in our travelling pack to 18 psi (pounds per square inch, if you give a hoot – also known as 124 kPa). He wasn’t being an idiot (at the time, anyway), but the sand was very chopped up and very, very soft. Deceptively so. It was just that he’d gotten jammed up a bit too close to the water’s edge for comfort—and surging waves were lapping the sand near his stuck vehicle. Cause for concern? Nah, we’ve all recovered vehicles in trickier spots than this. Lots of fun? Absolutely. Did we help Old Mate get out? Or did we perhaps leave him there stranded so we could go and enjoy the many other delights of the Mungo Brush and Myall Lakes region? Could we be so cruel? Bloody oath.*

When to go

The deceptively soft sand of Mungo Beach.

Mungo Brush is part of Myall Lakes National Park, near the town of Hawks Nest on NSW’s mid-north coast. It’s about 250km north of Sydney and also where former PM John Howard took his holidays every summer for about 20 years – even while in office. (He favoured the modest and convivial lodgings of the Ocean Side Hawks Nest Motel.) Go there any time of year as the temperatures are never outrageous either way: maximum 27°C in summer and minimum 10°C in winter. The last time we camped there was in July and even the youngsters didn’t whinge about the temperatures. Unusual.

What to expect

Soaking up the local knowledge.

Blackfellows Bay at its peaceful best.

Myall Lakes National Park has one of NSW’s largest coastal lake systems and encompasses more than 40km of beaches. The Myall Lakes cover 10,000 hectares and make up the state’s largest natural fresh-brackish water system. They’re listed as wetlands of international importance. The park has three precincts – Myall River and Bombah Broadwater; Boolambayte and Bombah Broadwater; and Sugarloaf Point to Shelley Beach. Mungo Brush and Mungo Beach are part of the Myall River/Bombah Broadwater precinct. There are sealed roads to, from and through Myall Lakes NP and the region offers a binge-worthy range of activities including swimming, surfing, bush-walking, kayaking and fishing, among other things. (Note: Make sure you’ve paid for all parking, camping and beach-driving permits that apply to your stay before you head off to enjoy yourself—-you will get rousted by the rangers.) max*d

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TRAVELLER

Myall River, home to many nautical adventurers.

Mungo Brush campground in Blackfellows Bay makes an ideal holiday HQ. It has 78 campsites and the waters of Myall Lakes are a fantastic spot in which to swim, kayak or fish along the lower Myall River. To the north is the leisurely Mungo Rainforest walk or head south to Tamboi walking track and Mungo walking track. Mungo Brush is also an ideal base camp for plenty of beach-driving shenanigans, so if you get tired of all that bushwalking, start thinking about a Mungo Beach excursion.

Must sees Mungo Beach There’s an abundance of wildlife in the region, the bushland is lush and it’s all very stunning, but if you’re keen on beach-driving and fishing then, if you’re in the know, you head straight for Mungo Beach. At a touch under 17km long, this is NSW’s third-longest beach and, as such, is a beach-driving playground. There are several access points along the beach, but we prefer Lemon Tree 4WD beach access track to get to Dark Point Aboriginal Place, or Mungo Beach 4WD access track, which is just up the road from Mungo Brush campground, to get to Big Gibber Headland.

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Exploring White Tree Bay.

Parts of this beach have periodically been closed to the public due to erosion, but on our most recent visit, every section we drove was open. Remember: never drive on the headland or over into the dunes and avoid vegetated areas and back tracks. The beach speed limit is 40km/h, beach pedestrians and wildlife always have right of way and vehicles must stay at least 15m away from beach pedestrians and more if you spot wildlife. On our recent visit, the sand around the beach-access point was soft and choppy, as it often is

White-bellied sea eagles can be spotted in the area.

At a touch under 17km long, this is NSW’s third-longest beach and, as such, is a beach-driving playground. MY TRIP TO MUNGO Access to Mungo Brush is easy for mid-north coast MU-X owner Matthew Foley “I last went there for a camping trip with my partner, but it’s a great place for families with good camping. I’m into kayaking, and there are lots of nice sheltered bays where you can take it easy, where boats can’t come into shore and kids can swim as well—there’s a nice sandy bottom and it’s safe. And I also like beach driving; just getting down into the shoreline and feeling the sand beneath your wheels. My old man’s actually a commercial fisherman in Wallace Lake—mainly bream and mullet, some flathead and whiting—although that didn’t help me. I went in September, so I would’ve been better off casting a line over on the beach side instead of the lake. The lake and the beach are only about 200m from each other in places, so you’ve got the best of both worlds. And don’t miss heading up to the lookout at Hawks Nest—it’s definitely worth seeing.”



TRAVELLER

LAKE MUNGO VERSUS

MUNGO BRUSH

Coming in from afar? Make sure your nav is pointed to Mungo Brush on the NSW Mid North Coast and not Lake Mungo, the spot 720km west of Sydney where Australia’s oldest human remains, AKA ‘Mungo Man’, were found in 1974. He lived 42,000 years ago. Visit the NSW national parks website—nationalparks.nsw.gov. au—and navigate to the Mungo Brush Campground site. There you can check on park, camping and beach-driving fees, as well as keep up-to-date with any park-specific alerts that may affect your stay.

around a beach entrance, but the sand further along the beach proper was firmer. We turned left on the beach and headed towards Dark Point Aboriginal Place (AKA Little Gibber). Dark Point Aboriginal Place You can reach this spot via sealed road if you drive along Mungo Brush Road from Hawks Nest for about 15km and turn into the carpark on the right—but where’s the fun in that? Mungo Beach is a top beach drive, so get the most out of your D-MAX or MU-X and hit the

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sandy stuff on the way. The dunes on Mungo Beach, some of them high and steep-sided, flank your left side as you drive north along the shoreline towards Little Gibber. During one of our drives along this stretch, we saw a trio of white-bellied sea eagles, wheeling, ducking and diving at each other high above us as they tussled in mid-air for possession of a bush mouse one of them must have caught moments before. This area, declared an Aboriginal site of significance in 2002, has been a gathering place for the Worimi people for more than 4000 years. It’s where they met in clan groups “to feast on the abundant seafood”,

according to the National Parks and Wildlife Service. Traditional burial sites, as well as middens, have also been found in this area. On an earlier visit to the Mungo Brush region, we met a walking group of locals who were collecting rubbish as they hiked along the coast on the way to Dark Point Aboriginal Place. After having a bit of a chin-wag with them, we scrutinised the on-site information board, and then took a load of beach debris off their hands— a win-win for everyone. (* Rest assured, we didn’t leave Old Mate. Of course, we helped to extricate him … and then we mercilessly stirred him for days about that particular bogging.)

Mungo Beach, the ideal place to test your sand-driving skills.


AN EXCLUSIVE OPPORTUNITY FOR D-MAX AND MU-X OWNERS TO LEARN THE 4X4 SKILLS TO HELP YOU GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR VEHICLE


, AUSTRALIA S

If you like: Tailor, Dart, Flathead

BEST

THE LIST

FISHING SPOTS

FRASER ISLAND QUEENSLAND

NO BOAT, NO WORRIES WORDS ANDREW HART

You don’t need a tinnie to reel in a feed as Hook, Line and Sinker’s Andrew Hart lists his 11 best land-based Aussie fishing spots.

T

here’s nothing more Australian than road tripping around the country and wetting a line along the way. Direct from one of Hook, Line and Sinker’s passionate pair of TV fishing gurus comes a list of some of the better onshore

locations to cast a line from. Places where you can simply pull up in your D-MAX or MU-X, have a cast and catch a feed. If you reckon you have a better spot, let us know at maxd@iua.net.au—unless, of course, you’d prefer to keep it your little secret…

If you like: Giant Trevally and Queenfish

CAPE YORK QUEENSLAND Where: The northernmost point on the Australian mainland When: Year-round IF YOU’VE made the drive to the Cape no doubt you’ll want to make the pilgrimage to The Tip—but instead of just getting a selfie standing in front of the sign, why not have a few casts? The Tip has plenty of current and some deep water right in close to the rocks. It’s a great spot for using poppers to catch giant trevally and queenfish. If The Tip doesn’t fire, you can always try the jetty back at Seisia. It’s a magnet for big fish such as barra, queenies and mackerel. Your best bet on the jetty is to use live bait.

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Where: 250km north of Brisbane / When: Year-round FRASER ISLAND is without doubt made for land-based fishing! Driving your D-MAX around the world’s largest sand island offers more fishing options and adventures than you can poke a rod at. On the eastern side of the island, simply drive up the beach until you see some deeper water in close to shore and use a surf rod to cast baits such as pippies or beach worms to hook dart and bream. Tailor can be caught over the cooler months, but be aware there is a closed season on Fraser Island from 1 August to 30 September. Flathead fishing is tremendous on the western side of the island—use a soft plastic lure and wade the shallow flats. The jetty at Kingfisher Resort is also well worth a visit, with bait fishing producing big flathead as well as surprise catches such as barramundi, mulloway and big mackerel.


THE LIST

If you like: Barramundi

KAKADU

DAM GOOD

NORTHERN TERRITORY Where: 170km southeast of Darwin When: Wet Season run-off, February to March

Mark Berg of 7mate’s Mark Berg’s Fishing Addiction is more of a fly-in-fly-out fisho, but he does have a couple of land-based, man-made favourite spots.

THE TROUBLE with barra fishing from the shore in the Top End is there’s a very real possibly of getting eaten. To prevent this, even without local knowledge or any further precautions, you can fish off the side of the road during the runoff which happens after a big wet season. There are culverts and bridges right near Darwin, but by far the best adventure is to take a drive to Kakadu. At this time of year the barra actually use the culverts running under the road as places to feed, so a few casts here and there can result in great success. Spinning with soft plastics or hard body diving lures is best. Once you’ve fished the culverts and bridges, head to the barrage at Shady Camp, Point Stuart (two hours east of Darwin) for a few casts as well.

PETER FAUST DAM, PROSERPINE, QLD

If you like: Snapper, King George Whiting

PORTLAND VICTORIA Where: Southwest Victoria When: Autumn and Summer PORTLAND IS a fantastic fishery year-round and the Lee Breakwater provides a great platform. It’s not uncommon for snapper, whiting, sharks and (in summer months) kingfish to be caught, and you can also harvest good numbers of squid on the weed beds at the start of the breakwater. Your best tip here is to catch some squid for fresh bait, then use it to catch whiting and snapper. Another tip for land-based snapper fishing is that they tend to bite best after a big blow.

If you like: Trout

DORRIGO

“It’s 13 hours north of Brisbane, inland of Airlie Beach, but I’ve made the drive back to Peter Faust almost every year since I discovered it in 2005. Nothing beats the visuals and sounds of the mighty ‘Barra Boof’ on the surface as it engulfs your popper and shoots into the air. Your heart starts pumping out of your chest! If you’re lucky enough to swim the big girl into the net and hold her up for a photo you just can’t top that feeling— except when you see her swim off again!”

THE GLENLYON DAM ON THE NSW BORDER IN QLD “One of my favourite spots is along a creek that flows into Glenlyon Dam, just coasting down, flicking lures along the way. Some of the steep gorges that seem to produce the best cod are not easy to get to so having my D-MAX is a godsend. The challenging off-road tracks just add to the whole adventure—just get out there and explore.”

NEW SOUTH WALES Where: 30km west of Coffs Harbour / When: October to June THIS IS a bit of an odd one! You wouldn’t think Dorrigo in northern NSW would be a trout hotspot … but think again! Drive up the hill to the Dorrigo Plateau and you will find beautiful mountain streams, most of which have been stocked with trout. There’s access to the streams right the way along the drive. Small lures are best. This is a little gem of a fishery and will be worth the excursion in your D-MAX or MU-X.

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THE LIST

If you like: Blue Swimmer crabs

COWELL JETTY SOUTH AUSTRALIA

If you like: Queenfish, Trevally & Spangled Emperor

EXMOUTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA Where: The Coral Coast / When: Year-round EXMOUTH IS one of my favourite spots to fish in Australia. North-west Western Australia’s offshore fishing is remarkable, but so is the inshore side of things. Ningaloo Reef is about a half-an-hour drive from Exmouth and your D-MAX or MU-X cruises along for miles beside the lagoon. Well, look no further, because fishing inside the lagoon can be fantastic. Wade the shallows and cast little lures or even a fly. Make sure you pick up a fishing zone map, however, as there’s plenty of marine reserves. Other spots around Exmouth include the Learmonth Jetty, which can turn up any number of species. It’s a fish-rich environment in one of Australia’s loveliest corners.

Where: Halfway between Port Lincoln and Port Augusta / When: Warmer months

IF YOU ever find yourself driving past Cowell, stop at the jetty and try for a crab—it’s undoubtedly the undisputed Blue Swimmer hotspot in all of the world! Sure, those with a boat will catch plenty, but the jetty (which, as it happens, is just across the road from the pub) is well worth a go. You’ll need a crab pot or two, some bait, which you can buy locally, and a few hours. Check your pots every 10 to 15 minutes. Once you’ve nabbed a feed, you will enjoy some of the tastiest—and easiest— seafood going.

If you like: Queenfish, Trevally & Spangled Emperor

LAKE MULWALA NSW & VICTORIA Where: 80km west of Albury-Wodonga When: Year-round, but there’s a closed season for Cod in Victoria from 1 September to 30 November MURRAY COD are Australia’s big, iconic native fish and can grow to an enormous size. There’s something special about the fact your next cod could be more than a metre long! Lake Mulwala is one of the best places in Australia to catch them in numbers. You can pull up anywhere around the lake, even right in the middle of the town of Mulwala itself, and cast a line. It’s easy fishing and the perfect place for a picnic while you wait for a bite. Best bet is to use bait such as worms or cheese. You can buy it from the local tackle shop and get some good advice, too. Lures also work well, especially early in the morning or on dark. Don’t be afraid to throw really big lures in low light!

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THE LIST

If you like: Flathead, Bream & Luderick

BERMAGUI RIVER NEW SOUTH WALES Where: The NSW South Coast When: Springtime for big flathead THE LITTLE river that runs into Bermagui Harbour has some fantastic fishing from the shore with sand banks to wade and breakwaters to fish from. The river always turns up big dusky flathead. There’s also plenty of bream, whiting and even luderick to keep you interested. Your best chance is to use fresh bait and to find some deeper water near the shore; the nearby tackle shop will sort you out with what’s biting. Also, in the warmer months keep an eye out for feeding frigate mackerel inside the Harbour itself. They’re hard to catch, but small silver lures should do the trick.

If you like: Brown Trout

NINETEEN LAGOONS TASMANIA Where: Central Plateau / When: Warmer months; Nov to Mar

Image: Destination NSW

JUST A short drive from the Great Lake is a world heritage listed area the locals call the Nineteen Lagoons. These shallow and clear lakes hold some of the best trout fishing in Australia. You can drive right up to the edge of most of the lakes, while others require a short walk through the wilderness. Lakes such as Augusta, Ada, Double Lagoon and Botsford are renowned fly-fishing waters. Head in on a sunny, blue sky day and take a good pair of polarised sunglasses. The lakes are shallow and clear, so just wander around until you spot a big brown trout. You can also use lures in some of the deep lakes— just remember you will need a trout licence to fish in Tasmania.

If you like: West Australian Salmon

ESPERANCE TOURIST DRIVE WESTERN AUSTRALIA Where: 720km southeast of Perth on the Southern Ocean / When: April to July THERE’S A special 38km drive that starts in Esperance and snakes its way along some of the most spectacular coastline in the country—particularly for fishos. From a fishing point of view, you should always take a spinning outfit with silver chrome lure attached when you set off, because there’s a very big chance you will stumble across a very big school of very big salmon. The aptly named Salmon Beach is as good a place to start as any. If you see a big, dark blob in the water, cast at it because chances are it’s a big mob of salmon. These fish are up to five kilos in weight and provide a great, satisfying fight. I wish I was there now! max*d

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UNSUNG HEROES

THE TRANSPLANT CRUSADER

South Australian double organ donor recipient Megan McLoughlin runs Herd of Hope, helping families on both sides—especially kids—cope with transplant trauma. WORDS MICHAEL BENN / IMAGE STUDIO BAROSSA

What’s your story? I was diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes when I was eight. I grew up in Melrose, a country town in South Australia, three hours from Adelaide. It was the Eighties, and my parents were told I couldn’t ride my horse. That was tough. So when I was 12, I had got a bit over people telling me what I couldn’t do, and I rode my horse from Melrose to Adelaide, 300km, to raise awareness for Type 1. Wow. The doctors would say, “You’re going to lose your leg, you’re going to lose your kidneys”. It’s always the negative. So I just went, stick it. And then I won five barrel racing titles at national rodeos and got a scholarship to study in the US. That escalated quickly. Shouldn’t you have been dead? I should’ve had no legs by then! Then when I was 26, I presented at the hospital with a terrible headache. They said I had blood vessels forming at the back of my eyes and so they decided to laser them. But accidentally, they used the wrong setting, and in that one sitting I received 8000 hits of laser. The maximum you should receive is about 3000 over six months. I was rushed into surgery where they detached the retina, scarred the macula and severed the artery to my right eye. Hence you being legally blind. Yes. And then, three months later, my kidney—I was born 40

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with one kidney—began to fail. And then my heart began failing on dialysis. In November 2010 I saw the team at Westmead in Sydney, which is the only place you can get a double transplant in Australia, who told me I wouldn’t make Christmas. I moved to Sydney because I had a fear of missing my flight and when I was called, I ended up rushed into the surgery without my family around me. My dad was managing the Cattlemen’s Association in Alice Springs. Life has come at you very fast. It has. A month later, I told a mate I was desperate for a date. He said he knew a bloke who worked in IT, gave me an email address and said, “You said you were desperate”. He’s now my husband. I’m one of just 87 women ever to have three babies, post double-transplant. So, Herd of Hope. Why? I decided we need more awareness around organ donation. The year I had my transplant, there were 310 organ donors in Australia—total. So I rang Dad and said, “I think we should take a herd of cattle across the Sydney Harbour Bridge”. He swore a lot, but he rang me back 45 minutes later and said, you could probably do it. What a cool concept. Yes, but there was a cabinet reshuffle in NSW and the new roads minister said that our 45-minute event was far too much an inconvenience for a Sydney Sunday morning, droving

Last week I had three different transplant recipients ring me threatening suicide. It’s survivor guilt.

NAME Megan McLoughlin HERD OF HOPE A charity focused on supporting organ recipients and donor families in regional and rural Australia since 2017 AUSTRALIANS CURRENTLY WAITLISTED FOR TRANSPLANT: 1400 CONTACT: herdofhope.com.au

250 cows. We did it on Bondi instead. We had 3000 people there at 7am, from both sides of the coin—donors and recipients. What happened to the cattle? We sold them to pay for a kids’ camp back at Undoolya Station in Alice Springs. We get no government funding. We took 10 kids up there in August and let them meet someone else that had gone through a similar experience. It’s been life-changing. Now we’ll roll out those camps twice a year. How grim are the stats? Last year there were 76,000 deaths in Australia and only 564 organ donors. Fewer than one per cent of Australians pass away in circumstances where organ donation is possible. It almost has to be a traumatic experience. It’s hard. So you need to have that conversation about your wishes with your family beforehand. But what we do is pretty simple: we turn up on their doorstep with a carton of milk and a loaf of bread and say “How can we help?” So far this year I’ve travelled 44,000km. It’s a big commitment. Last week I had three different transplant recipients ring me threatening suicide. It’s survivor guilt—someone died and you’re still here, and your family doesn’t understand why medication is affecting your mood swings. You know, 44 people died last year waiting for a transplant in Australia. Why did you survive and someone else didn’t?


UNSUNG HEROES

What we do is pretty simple: we turn up on their doorstep with a carton of milk and a loaf of bread and say “How can we help?”

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HOOK, LINE & SINKER

WORDS ANDREW HART

THE END OFTHE LINE TV’s Hook, Line and Sinker boys complete their dream D-MAX lap of the country after almost two years and over 25,000km. Andrew Hart takes us through an epic conclusion.

W

e’ve certainly clocked some kays at the wheel of a D-MAX over the past couple of years— and ticked off many bucket list fishing destinations! Starting in Victoria in early 2018, we have now completely circled Australia—recently finishing off with a mini lap of our home state: Tasmania. The Big Lap saw us fish all the way up the East Coast to the very tip of Cape York. It included an epic 200-mile voyage through the Kimberley in our own boat and some hot billfish action off the WA coast. The most enjoyable part of the adventure was usually when we were by ourselves, in our own boat, doing our own thing. It’s a feeling many D-MAX and MU-X owners can relate to. The final journey of our Big Lap was

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Perth to Melbourne. And to make it interesting, we did it right in the middle of winter. Probably not the best idea given the Southern Ocean’s famous volatility, but along this incredible coastline, its wildness is part of its charm. It was a bit of a shame to arrive at Albany and Esperance only to be greeted by mountainous seas and a breeze that felt more Arctic than Western Australian. Nevertheless, in between rainstorms we still managed to film a couple of unexpected segments with some very pleasant surprises. The first was up a river out the back of Albany. Our guru for the day was an ocean rock fishing legend but, given the conditions, the only option we had was to drive the D-MAX a little inland and fish a tidal creek. You don’t try to trek uphill

during an avalanche and you don’t go rock fishing during heaving, apocalyptic seas. It was here we managed to catch some great mulloway on lures. Nick and I couldn’t really believe it; the river looked like a trout or a bass stream. But in it lives a population of resident mulloway eager to eat a lure. The next surprise segment happened a few hundred kays down the road at Esperance. When we arrived, the weather was so bad it was raining horizontally. Boating was once again out of the question, as was most of the beach fishing and rock fishing options the area is so famous for. But on the last afternoon we had in town, the rain finally let up and the sun came out. The wind backed off just enough for us to join a few local lads for a drive on the tourist route just out of town.


HOOK,LINE&SINKER

Wat Line anch Hook, on 7ma d Sinker local gte. Check for det uides ails.

It was a very pleasant surprise when on the first headland we pulled over to the side of the road and looked down on a big, black, ball of fish. We were hopeful we might find a few West Oz salmon to snare. The locals reckoned it was a long shot. But we were going crazy sitting inside and had to try and do something! It was a very pleasant surprise when on the first headland we pulled over to the side of the road and looked down on a big, black ball of fish. We would have driven straight past because it just looked like weed. But our local gurus identified the massive school of 2–5kg salmon, all within casting distance of the rocks. (See ‘The List’ on pp36–39 for more information about location and technique.) We put the drone over them to confirm this and sure enough, as it got closer, the surging, dark mass was alive. Needless to say, we ended up having a great few hours catching and filming the biggest salmon we’ve ever seen in our lives.

From the south coast of Western Australia we were soon in South Australia. This leg of our journey saw us catching and eating King George Whiting at Ceduna, swimming with Great White Sharks off Port Lincoln (er, in a cage), a day spent bottom bashing the waters around Kangaroo Island and some more river mulloway, this time in the Glenelg River on the border of South Australia and Victoria. Finally, our Mini Lap took us on a loop of Tasmania. We took in the west coast where we hunted trophy trout, then visited a lump of rock in the Southern Ocean called Pedra Branca, where we caught huge tuna. Lastly, we stopped over on a quick trip to Flinders Island in the middle of Bass Strait for some of the biggest flathead and squid we’ve ever seen!

All in all, it was two of the best years yet filming Hook, Line and Sinker. And for the record we clocked up just over 27,500km of Aussie roads, from wide, smooth, pristine motorways to dodgy old goat tracks— 90 per cent of which was hauling a big boat. The D-MAX never missed a beat!

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REFUEL

JUST

DESSERTS Got a sweet tooth? Don’t suffer sub-par pudding just because you’ve gone bush.

IMAGES CATHY PROCTOR, BROOKE LARK, CRAIG LEWIS

Paroo Peach Pie

“I

want to have a good body,” said Jason Love, “but not as much as I want dessert.” Unfortunately, that’s Jason Love—a struggling American comedian (main gig: cruise ships)—and not the former AFL player for the Swans and the Demons, Jason ‘Jack’ Love, who retired in 1992. One man is a Californian comic who likes ice cream, the other instigated a wild, bench-clearing melee as coach of the North Cairns Tigers in 2004, punched three opposition players and was banned for eight years. It’s safe to say that neither man is particularly good at impulse control. But when it comes to dessert, who can blame them? Every meal’s finest course is its last: the sweet, irresistible nightmare of calories that divides people into two categories: people who say they love dessert, and liars. But what about when you’ve gone your own way and are parked up somewhere in the vast Outback— a million miles from the big city’s

cheesecake shops and artisanal gelaterias and giant MasterChef croquembouche towers? Fear not. We have the answer, thanks to Cathy Proctor, of The Caravan & Campervan Cookbook. And another bonus: that ‘nightmare of calories’? Not so much. “This couldn’t be simpler to make,” she says, of her self-described ‘healthy’ chocolate mousse. “Sinfully rich and creamy, it is actually quite good for you, too!” Any one of this trio of recipes will see you right with minimal prep or fancy ingredients—no matter how far you are from home. You just need a chiller, a stick blender, a pie tin and, er, a jar, to create any of the three. Just be advised—some require a little more prep. “The cheesecake in a jar is a recipe that needs to be prepared in advance, but it’s so amazing I couldn’t resist adding it,” says Proctor. “It can also be frozen, as long as you defrost it for about half an hour before indulging.” Enjoy!

Every meal’s finest course is its last

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• 825g can sliced peaches, drained • 2 tbsp butter • ½ cup sugar (caster if you have some) • 1 tsp vanilla essence • 1 egg • 1 cup self-raising flour • ½ cup milk • ¼ desiccated coconut Method: Arrange peaches over base of a pie dish and put aside. Cream butter, sugar and vanilla together and gradually beat in the egg. Then add dry ingredients and milk and mix until smooth. Spread the butter mixture over the peaches and sprinkle with the coconut. Bake in camp oven until golden and top is set. Serve hot with custard.

FIND OUT MORE Cheesecake and mousse care of The Caravan & Campervan Cookbook. Paroo pie care of Australian Bush Cooking 3rd Edition, each RRP $34.99 by Boiling Billy Publications. Visit booktopia.com.au


REFUEL

Cheesecake in a Jar Cooking time: 5 minutes prep + 2 hours chilling time Serves: 2 BASE LAYER

• 2 shortbread or digestive biscuits, crush in a ziplock bag • 2 tsp butter, melted LEMON CHEESECAKE LAYER

• 125gm light or spreadable cream cheese • ¼ cup full-cream coconut milk • 2 tbsp maple syrup • 2 tbsp lemon juice RASPBERRY LAYER

• 1 punnet fresh raspberries or ¼ cup frozen raspberries • 2 tsp maple syrup • 1 tsp chia seeds

Healthy Chocolate Mousse • ¼ cup cocoa powder • ¼ cup maple syrup • ¼ cup coconut cream • 1 ripe avocado, skin and stone removed, chopped • 1 tbsp coconut oil or olive oil • 1 tsp vanilla essence • Pinch of salt

Method: To make base, combine ingredients and press into base of two jars. To make cheesecake layer, process ingredients in the bowl of a stick mixer and pour over base. For the raspberry layer, blend the raspberries, maple syrup and chia seeds in the bowl of a stick mixer, then pour over the cheesecake layer.

Method: Combine all ingredients in the bowl of a stick mixer and blend until smooth and creamy. Divide into two jars or bowls and chill in the refrigerator for two hours. Serve with fresh berries. NOTE: you can use ½ a banana instead of the avocado. Top with fresh berries when in season.

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DON’T LET YOURSELF GET BOXED IN WITH OUTDATED DESIGNS

ALSO AVAILABLE

FOR ISUZU MU-X

At AFN we approach things differently, we take into consideration the natural lines of the vehicle and give the vehicle a look and feel that it so rightly deserves.

OUR RANGE INCLUDES • Bullbars

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FLASHBACK

1981–91 THE ISUZU TROOPER

Built in Isuzu’s Fujisawa Plant in central Japan, the first-generation Isuzu Trooper made its way across the globe in a sort of international diaspora. It made its debut as a three-door model only, with a four-pot engine, four-cog manual transmission, part-time four-wheel drive and an odd choice of hard- or soft-top variants. The ragtop proved short-lived and a 2.2-litre diesel, producing a wheezy 54kW, was a little under-gunned, even by early Eighties standards. Despite this, the model itself thrived, helped by the arrival of more doors, more powerful versions and— eventually—a V6 with both air-con and (luxury!) power windows. In essence, this high-riding SUV was the predecessor of the seven-seat Isuzu MU-X, introduced in 2013. From 1981 to 1991, Australians were curiously offered a choice between the Isuzu Trooper and the Holden Jackaroo—all-but-identical vehicles, each having rolled off the same Fujisawa assembly line.

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Port Augusta North East Port Augusta Isuzu UTE (08) 8643 6233

Rockingham Bergmans Isuzu UTE (08) 9527 8883

Arundel Gold Coast Isuzu UTE (07) 5583 9320

Moss Vale Harrigan Moss Vale Isuzu UTE (02) 4868 3580

Atherton John Cole Isuzu UTE (07) 4030 5590

Mudgee Mudgee Isuzu UTE (02) 6372 1766

Ayr Burdekin Isuzu UTE (07) 4783 7077

Muswellbrook Wideland Isuzu UTE (ASF) (02) 6543 3066

Beaudesert Beaudesert Isuzu UTE (07) 5540 1050

Newcastle West Newcastle City Isuzu UTE (02) 4989 5818

Blackwater Coalfields Mechanical & Towing Pty Ltd (IASF) (07) 4982 5243

North Parramatta Parramatta Isuzu UTE (02) 8886 1052 Orange Orange Isuzu UTE (02) 6362 8100 Port Macquarie John Patrick Isuzu UTE (02) 6584 1800 Queanbeyan John McGrath Isuzu UTE (02) 6173 9900 Rutherford Hunter Isuzu UTE (02) 4035 9300 Ryde Ryde Isuzu UTE (02) 9850 1222 Scone Wideland Isuzu UTE (02) 6544 3300 Smeaton Grange Camden Valley Isuzu UTE (02) 4655 5000 Tamworth Woodleys Isuzu UTE (02) 6763 1500 Taree Mid Coast Isuzu UTE (02) 6592 6300 Tweed Heads Tweed Coast Isuzu UTE (07) 5589 7788 Vineyard Sinclair Windsor Isuzu UTE (02) 4555 7700 Wadalba Wyong Isuzu UTE 1300 109 735 Wagga Wagga Wagga Motors Isuzu UTE (02) 6933 0100 Warwick Farm Peter Warren Isuzu UTE (02) 9828 8888 West Ballina Northern Rivers Isuzu UTE (02) 6681 4499 Yallah Harrigan Illawarra Isuzu UTE (02) 4230 8888

Morayfield Keystar Isuzu UTE (ASO) (07) 3448 1030 Mount Gravatt Keema Mt Gravatt Isuzu UTE (07) 3426 1500

Brendale Brendale Isuzu UTE (07) 3490 6690

Noosaville Pacific Isuzu UTE (ASO) (07) 5335 8333

Bundaberg Bundaberg Isuzu UTE (07) 4152 0000

Nundah Nundah Isuzu UTE (07) 3635 5100

Cairns Trinity Isuzu UTE (07) 4081 5030

Rockhampton Tropical Isuzu UTE (07) 4931 9333

Caloundra Caloundra Isuzu UTE (07) 5322 5655 Cleveland Keema Cleveland Isuzu UTE (07) 3479 9888 Dalby Black Dalby Isuzu UTE (07) 4669 8988 Dysart Sharp’s Heavy Equipment Repairs (IASF) (07) 4941 2800 Eagle Farm Brisbane Isuzu UTE (07) 3866 2200 Emerald Emerald Isuzu UTE (07) 4980 7930 Gladstone Reef City Isuzu UTE (07) 4971 4000 Goondiwindi Black Goondiwindi Isuzu UTE (07) 4671 3512 Gympie Gympie Isuzu UTE (07) 5480 5200 Hervey Bay Bay City Isuzu UTE (07) 4124 0000 Indooroopilly Westpoint Isuzu UTE (07) 3878 0440 Ipswich Blue Ribbon Isuzu UTE (07) 3288 6600 Kingaroy Ken Mills Isuzu UTE (07) 4164 9285

ASO = Authorised Satellite Outlet / ASF = Authorised Service Facility

Roma Black Goondiwindi Isuzu UTE (ASO) (07) 4624 4800 Rothwell Keystar Isuzu UTE (07) 3480 8600 Springwood Keema Springwood Isuzu UTE (07) 3884 8300 Toowoomba Black Isuzu UTE (07) 4631 4200 Townsville Townsville Isuzu UTE (07) 4750 0300 Townview Mt Isa Isuzu UTE (07) 4743 0347 Warwick Warwick Automotive Isuzu UTE (07) 4660 2000

VIC Bairnsdale Peter Dullard Isuzu UTE (03) 5152 0100 Ballarat Ballarat Isuzu UTE (03) 5335 3600 Bundoora Northern Isuzu UTE (03) 9466 5855 Cheltenham Booran Isuzu UTE (03) 9581 8200 Dandenong Patterson Cheney Isuzu UTE (03) 9215 2300

Mildura Autosynergy Isuzu UTE (03) 5022 0927 Mornington Mornington Isuzu UTE (03) 5975 5188 Nunawading Eastside Isuzu UTE (03) 8814 6288 Pakenham Pakenham Isuzu UTE (03) 5922 4111 Ravenhall Lakeside Isuzu UTE (03) 9021 3899 Seaford Frankston Isuzu UTE (03) 9599 2123 Shepparton Ken Muston Isuzu UTE (03) 5821 6688 Stawell Horsham City Isuzu UTE (ASF) (03) 5358 2144 Swan Hill Holts Isuzu UTE (03) 5032 1064 Traralgon Gippsland Isuzu UTE (03) 5175 8060

Port Lincoln Mike Raleigh Isuzu UTE (08) 8683 1211 Tanunda Jarvis Isuzu UTE 1300 137 774 Victor Harbor Victor Harbor Isuzu UTE (08) 8552 7033 Wayville Australian Motors Isuzu UTE 1300 045 718

WA Albany Albany Autos Isuzu UTE (08) 9842 5522 Bibra Lake Major Motors Isuzu UTE (08) 9331 9331 Broome Broome Isuzu UTE (08) 9193 6155 Burswood Burswood Isuzu UTE (08) 6164 1050 Esperance Albany Autos Isuzu UTE (ASO) (08) 9071 1060

South Hedland Pilbara Isuzu UTE (08) 9174 2200 Wangara Wanneroo Isuzu UTE (08) 9403 9403

TAS Burnie Gowans Isuzu UTE (03) 6431 5677 Derwent Park Jackson Hobart Isuzu UTE (03) 6277 6600 Devonport Gowans Isuzu UTE (ASO) (03) 6424 5177 Launceston Jackson Launceston Isuzu UTE (03) 6323 7000

ACT Belconnen National Capital Isuzu UTE (02) 6256 3321 Phillip John McGrath Isuzu UTE (ASO) (02) 5114 1675

NT

Geraldton Geraldton Isuzu UTE (08) 9964 2323

Alice Springs Centralian Motors Isuzu UTE (08) 8959 7700

Kalgoorlie Goldfields Isuzu UTE (08) 9021 5888

Katherine Katherine Isuzu UTE (ASF) (08) 8974 0000

SA

Karratha Pilbara Isuzu UTE (ASF) (08) 9185 2100

Pinelands Darwin Isuzu UTE (08) 8924 8600

Albert Park Portside Isuzu UTE (08) 8345 7450

Kununurra Kununurra Isuzu UTE (ASF) (08) 9169 4900

Berri Big River Isuzu UTE (08) 8582 5200

Maddington Maddington Isuzu UTE (08) 9492 0000

Wangaratta Wangaratta Isuzu UTE (03) 5722 2000 Warrnambool Warrnambool Isuzu UTE (03) 5561 6000

Effective as of 18/11/2019. Please visit our website isuzuute.com.au/dealers for the latest dealer contact details.


PEACE OF MIND WITH SERVICE PLUS

OUR COMMITMENT TO YOU & YOUR ISUZU Keep both your wallet and your vehicle happy with Isuzu UTE Service Plus. Service Plus is our comprehensive care package providing you with complete peace of mind and no unexpected surprises when maintaining and servicing your D-MAX or MU-X. Providing 6 year/150,000km Warranty^, 6 years Roadside Assistance< and 7 years Capped Price Servicing>. No matter where you are or what you’re doing, we’ve got you covered.

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT ISUZU UTE SERVICE PLUS AT ISUZUUTE.COM.AU/SERVICE-PLUS ^6 years/150,000km (whichever occurs first), for Eligible Vehicles with a Warranty Start Date on or after 1/1/19. Excludes trays & accessories. <6 years Roadside Assistance (unlimited kilometres) for Eligible Vehicles with a Warranty Start Date on or after 1/1/19. >The Capped Price Servicing Program (“CPS Program”) applies to Eligible Vehicles at Participating Isuzu UTE Dealers only. For 19MY & later vehicle models, the Capped Price Servicing covers the first 7 Scheduled Services for up to 7 years/105,000km (whichever occurs first). CPS Program is subject to change. For full terms & conditions, current pricing & model eligibility visit isuzuute.com.au/service-plus-disclaimer.


THE GEAR TO GET YOU THERE.

BULL BARS & PROTECTION

ARB.COM.AU

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CANOPIES & UTE LIDS

TEL. 1300 272 494

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