Travel Life Magazine - Fall 2023 by Tammyc

FALL 2023

HAUNTS OF NEW ORLEANS

CITY ESCAPE CHICAGO

UNFORGETTABLE TAIPEI

COASTAL

NEW BRUNSWICK

I EC

AL FEAT

MAD FOR MEXICO

CONTRIBUTORS For this issue, we asked some of our contributors to tell us about one of their best fall travel experiences.

JUDI COHEN THREE UNFORGETTABLE DAYS IN TAIPEI, PAGE 48 One of my most memorable European fall trips was meandering along the medieval Canal du Midi in the south of France on an eight-person barge, allowing me the time to embrace slow travel in this romantic, off-the-beaten-path destination.

COVER PHOTO: Vallodolid, Yucatan

Courtesy of Yucatan State Tourism Board

PUBLISHER/ Tammy Cecco EDITOR IN CHIEF CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Jessica Padykula DIGITAL CONTRIBUTING Nicola Brown EDITOR

SABRINA PIRILLO THREE TURN-OF-THE-CENTURY COCKTAIL BARS, ONE PROHIBITED ERA, PAGE 42 I was two hours into my trip when I fell in love with Edinburgh, Scotland. This memorable fall favourite came with an abundance of history, remarkable architecture, locally sourced cuisine and eco-friendly activities topped with Scottish hospitality. Whether it was staying in a historic sixteenth-century building, engaging with wildlife (including milking a goat), or trying haggis for the first time, Edinburgh and its surrounding areas gave me mystical magic with a side of captivating adventure.

CHRIS RYALL WELLNESS MIXED WITH MAYAN CULTURE AND CUISINE, PAGE 28 Fall is a great time to travel. It’s shoulder season in many destinations making it more affordable with fewer tourists. A favourite fall trip for me–and one that surprised me–was El Salvador. It’s a country of towering volcanoes and numerous beaches, and so much more. For such a small country it has incredibly diverse landscapes and ecosystems. Despite its troubled history, I found the people incredibly warm and welcoming no matter where I went.

DESIGN DIRECTOR Joyce Padilla PRODUCTION Gregory Alexander CONTRIBUTORS Diana Ballon

Jim Bamboulis Judi Cohen Lynn Elmhirst Sharon Matthews-Stevens Jessica Padykula Sabrina Pirillo Chris Ryall Nicole Servinis Mark Stevens

ADVERTISING, marketing@travellife.ca SPONSORSHIP, Tel: 416.805.5159 OPPORTUNITIES & EVENT COVERAGE

SUBSCRIPTIONS Travel Life is published every quarter by D.M.E. and is independently owned. Opinions expressed in Travel Life are those of the authors, and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. Travel Life does not assume liability for content. All rights reserved. Re-production in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. For re-production request send an email to info@travellife.ca

Get your complimentary subscription to Travel Life magazine

Bringing to life the sights, sounds and tastes of destinations across the globe FOLLOW US: @travellifemag TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 3

EDITOR’S LETTER

s the autumn leaves start to fall once again, the pages of this issue are ablaze with exciting travel inspiration from around the globe.

We hope that this issue inspires you to embrace the magic of Mexico and the curated collection of destinations within these pages, whether you’re planning a getaway or simply daydreaming of future adventures.

Just in time for Halloween, one writer dares to uncover the spooky side of New Orleans, while another spends several days exploring the coast of New Brunswick, which offers everything from gourmet cuisine to sea kayaking and wilderness hiking. We’ve also got a piece about how three unexpected days in Taipei turned into an unforgettable experience and anyone thinking about booking a cruise vacation should take a peek at our piece on cruise line private islands.

Thank you for allowing Travel Life to be your travel companion on this incredible journey!

In addition, if you’ve ever wondered what to do with a tomatillo, another writer digs into the many uses for this staple Mexican ingredient. And if you prefer your tipples with a unique twist, you might want to check out our story on prohibition-era cocktails in Phoenix, Arizona. If that weren’t enough travel inspiration, this issue also features our Mad for Mexico section. With its kaleidoscope of colours, flavours and traditions, Mexico has been a destination close to my heart for many years and a destination that is well-loved by Canadian travellers. We are excited to share our annual special feature that highlights its many diverse regions. From the enchanting historical towns where time seems to stand still amid cobblestone streets and centuries-old architecture, to the cuisine that tantalizes your taste buds. This issue not only showcases Mexico’s beautiful beaches but highlights its rich cultural heritage. Whether it’s discovering the immense skill of Mexican artisans who weave stories into every textile and piece of pottery, or diving into the world of ancient Mayan civilizations, Mexico has a way of surprising you around every corner. For starters, we head to the Yucatan (a destination full of its own set of surprises). We also explore the many sides of the Mexican Caribbean–from its extensive coastline to its many archaeological sites and opportunities for wildlife viewing, as well as Ixtapa Zihuatanejo, Mexico’s newest Magical Town that more than lives up to its distinction. Travel Life also sits down with the general director for the Board of Tourism of Baja California Sur to get a local’s perspective on this under-the-radar destination that’s always worth a visit.

Photo by AKAH Photography, taken at El Cocay Spa, Hotel Marina El Cid Spa & Beach Resort in Puerto Morelos, Mexico

Tammy Cecco TAMMY CECCO EDITOR IN CHIEF

“

On a recent trip to Mexico, I fell in love with Bani designs. I love that each piece is one-of-a-kind and made from sustainable materials woven on pedal looms. SEE MORE ABOUT BANI DESIGNS ON PAGE 12.

@travellifemag

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 5

CONTENTS 2

CONTRIBUTORS

EDITOR’S LETTER

A PERFECT SPOT FOR SELF-CARE

The Westin Resort & Spa, Puerto Vallarta offers everything you need to recharge and reset both mentally and physically

MAD FOR MEXICO

TAKING TRADITION OUTSIDE OF THE BOX

Bani is a Mexican brand committed to culture, traditions and communities

YUCATAN: A DESTINATION FULL OF SURPRISES

This region of Mexico offers something new to discover at every turn, no matter your travel personality

DISCOVER THE MAGIC OF IXTAPA ZIHUATANEJO

Mexico’s newest Magical Town more than lives up to its distinction thanks to a range of unforgettable attractions

EXPLORING THE MANY SIDES OF THE MEXICAN CARIBBEAN

From beautiful beaches to rich history and culture, this region is home to everything that makes Mexico so memorable

UNCOVER YOUR OWN PIECE OF PARADISE WITH EL CID RESORTS

Explore the best of Mexico with an awardwinning family of properties offering something for everyone

THE MANY WAYS TO EMBRACE MEXICO AT FAIRMONT MAYAKOBA

Combine a relaxing beach vacation with the chance to truly immerse yourself in local culture

WELLNESS MIXED WITH MAYAN CULTURE AND CUISINE

Náay Spa at El Dorado Seaside Suites is a serene escape where local culture and customs take centre stage

FOR THE LOVE OF THE TOMATILLO

It’s worth getting to know this staple Mexican ingredient that resembles a tomato–but packs a different type of flavourful punch

UNVEILING VELAS RESORTS’ HIDDEN GEMS

Discover two boutique resorts within the Velas family offering understated elegance and a personal approach to luxury

A LOCAL LOOK AT THE BEST OF BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR

Travel Life sits down with Jesus Ordonez, general director for the Board of Tourism of Baja California Sur, to get the inside scoop on this under-the-radar destination

PHOTO CREDITS: 12 BANI ARTESANAL 32 VELAS RESORTS

38 ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL PHOTO CREDITS:

INSIDE CRUISING

HIDDEN GEMS: CRUISE LINE PRIVATE ISLANDS

Experience your most unforgettable beach days on a cruise

42 GRACE STUFKOSKY

46 BLUE MOTEL ROOM PHOTOGRAPHY

CITY ESCAPES

CHARMED BY CHICAGO

It’s not hard to fall for this eclectic city; a haven for everyone from foodies and fans of architecture to history buffs and art lovers

FOODIE FILES

THREE TURN-OF-THECENTURY COCKTAIL BARS, ONE PROHIBITED ERA

Century Grand in Phoenix, Arizona houses a departed era in the form of a train, ship and apothecary

DISCOVERIES

A SPOOKY SIDE OF NEW ORLEANS

Discovering the haunts and history that make this Louisiana city so unique

FOLLOWING THE NEW BRUNSWICK COAST

From gourmet cuisine to sea kayaking and wilderness hiking, this province’s unique coastline is well worth a multi-day exploration

THREE UNFORGETTABLE DAYS IN TAIPEI

How an unplanned visit to this lively and fascinating city became a memorable journey

MAD FOR MEXICO PUERTO VALLARTA

A Perfect Spot For Self Care The Westin Resort & Spa, Puerto Vallarta offers everything you need to recharge and reset both mentally and physically BY NICOLE SERVINIS

When was the last time you woke up in the morning and meditated on a beach while listening to the gentle sound of waves? When was the last time you put yourself first and totally unplugged? With the busy lives we lead these days, it can be challenging to set aside time to do absolutely nothing–time without scrolling, phone calls, work, or TV. I recently had the chance to do just that on a solo getaway to The Westin Resort & Spa, Puerto Vallarta where morning meditation is just one of their many wellness offerings.

Wellness Essentials For me, wellness starts with a good night’s sleep. After all, that’s what JLo credits her perpetually youthful glow to! At The Westin PV, all 279 rooms and suites come with ultra-comfortable beds and private balconies overlooking Banderas Bay or the lush hotel gardens. The beds and pillows are uniquely designed for premium comfort and support—there’s even a pillow menu to choose from. Moving first thing in the morning is another wellness must-do, and always on my list of things to do on vacation so I can enjoy my day guilt-free. Typically, I would hit the treadmill and do some plyometric exercises, but the property’s well-equipped gym allowed me to get a more intense workout thanks to the variety of equipment available-including TRX and more. Attached to the fitness facility you’ll find the spa. Open daily, choose from a variety of massages, facials, body wraps and beauty treatments. I opted for a relaxation massage that left me so mellow I fell fast asleep. TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 10

Healthy–and Flavourful Food Achieving an overall healthy lifestyle also involves healthy eating, which can be hard to do while travelling. Many hotels either don’t offer healthy meals, or you end up sacrificing flavor to get more nutrition. At The Westin, that wasn’t the case. Starbucks coffee was a treat every morning, along with Westin Fresh by The Juicery, which offered an assortment of nourishing, healthy juices and smoothies. Whether you are after a mocktail or a handcrafted cocktail, there was no shortage of beverage options that looked just as gorgeous as they tasted. I was also impressed with the vegetarian and vegan options available at all their restaurants. It was never hard to find a meal or even a snack by the pool that offered flavour while also being healthy (I recommend the grilled fish tacos). Dinner at Arrecifes Seafood & Steakhouse was a standout for me. The grilled octopus was seared and seasoned to perfection, accompanied by roasted vegetables. On my last night, I enjoyed dinner at Las Pergolas, which was equally delicious, all while watching a golden sunset.

A Picturesque Property I spent a great deal of time at the resort since it felt like a true self-care oasis. The property, a former palm tree plantation turned luxury wellness resort, features about 600 palm trees across 14 tranquil acres of land. Check out Las Pergolas Beach Club where you can take in gorgeous island views overlooking sparkling Banderas Bay. When venturing out of the resort, I recommend doing so with Puerta Vallarta Adventures. I took their boat trip package to Playa Majahuitas, which is considered by many to be the best beach in Puerto Vallarta (it’s only accessible by boat). This is the trendiest beach club in Puerto Vallarta–a hotspot on Saturdays and Sundays but it was just as fun and lively on a Wednesday. Catch your breath and recharge from the demands of day-to-day life and book a trip just for you. I can honestly say I came home as my best self: rejuvenated, calm and most importantly, happy I took that trip.

MAD FOR Mexico

Artisans in Yucatan, Mexicol honour tradtion by skillfully crafting using sisal’s natural fibers, preserving their cultural heritage and creating sustainable, eco-friendly products. Yucatan.travel

We invite you to embark on an inspirational journey into the cultural richness of Mexico, exploring its diverse people, captivating locales, and mouthwatering cuisine. The glimpse we share of this enchanting country will likely have you packing a bag and reaching for your passport. No matter the region, every experience is a celebration of Mexico’s soul.

MAD FOR MEXICO BANI ARTESANAL

FROM THE HEART OF MEXICO AND TAKING TRADITION

OUTSIDE OF THE BOX The Bani Artesanal brand is renewing authentic Mexican traditions. Built on sustainability and woven on pedal looms, Bani’s unique products are all made from recycled materials, right down to the thread being used to the packaging tags made of plant seeds.

handbags Handbags are made of recycled materials and

The Bani Artesanal brand is

the inside is made out of cotton canvas. The most

renewing authentic Mexican

popular, the “Poka” comes in four sizes: large,

traditions using recycled materials

medium, small and mini.

to create one-of-a-kind and sustainable products woven on pedal looms. Every piece celebrates Oaxaca’s artisanal heritage and the passion and dedication of Oaxaca artisans through a tradition that has been passed on for generations. Through different techniques, these artisans create an innovative type of texture and design that reflects a blend of history and modern personality with their high-quality handcrafted work. TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 12

clothing The Bani clothing line seeks to empower not only the women who wear the pieces, but also the women that create them.

home

Bring a little Mexican style into your home with unique throw pillows and placemats made from recycled cotton.

baniartesanal.com TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 13

Yucatan:

ADVERTORIAL YUCATAN

FOR EVERY TRAVEL PERSONALITY Yucatan State satisfies so much more than the beach seekers. No matter your travel motivation, unforgettable natural wonders and opportunities to connect with local culture–are around every corner

Nature Lovers

There are lush jungles and tranquil mangroves, protected areas brimming with local wildlife and beautiful beaches to explore. Don’t miss Celestun Biosphere Reserve, home to more than 300 bird species, including an abundant population of vibrant pink flamingos.

The History Buff

You’ll find that Yucatan is a living testament to the past. With 18 Mayan archaeological sites to explore, you can step back in time and uncover ancient civilizations. From the UNESCO-listed wonder of Chichen-Itza to the captivating sites of Uxmal and Ek Balam, the region’s history is alive and well. Make time to see one of Yucatan’s many Pueblos Mágicos (Magical Towns), named for their historical and cultural significance.

The Foodie in You

Yucatecan cuisine is a culinary journey into the heart of this region. Rooted in ancient Mayan traditions and influenced by European and Caribbean flavors, Yucatecan dishes are a flavorful fusion. Don’t leave without sampling cochinita pibil (a local take on pulled pork), sopa de lima (a comforting soup with a tangy twist), and papadzules (similar to enchiladas).

Did You Know?

Adventurers

Zipline through the jungle, go on an epic hike, or catch a few waves– adventure is everywhere in the Yucatan. And don’t forget to visit a stunning cenote—otherworldly natural sinkholes brimming with crystal-clear freshwater and a vital part of Mayan culture.

Romantic at Heart

The Yucatan offers more than a few ways to connect as a couple. Explore the region’s historic haciendas, some dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries, now transformed into charming boutique hotels. These hideaways offer elegant rooms, fine dining, inviting swimming pools and serene grounds—the perfect setting for an intimate and memorable getaway.

You may be familiar with the Yucatán Peninsula as a geographical region, but did you know that it’s actually home to three separate Mexican states? The state of Yucatán lies between its neighbouring states of Campeche and Quintana Roo, where Cancun and the Mexican Caribbean are located.

How to get there? Getting here is easy with WestJet’s direct flights from Toronto to Merida, the state capital. Take advantage of direct service on Tuesdays available between November and March and the newly added Thursday flight (available as of Dec. 21st). Year-round options with connections via the U.S. are also available.

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 15

DISCOVER THE MAGIC OF

Ixtapa Zihuatanejo Mexico’s newest Magical Town is living up to its potential thanks to a range of unforgettable draws

Mexico’s coastline is gifted with charming destinations and vacation destination choices, but few can match the allure of Ixtapa Zihuatanejo–the perfect two destinations in one, and ideally situated on Mexico’s Pacific coast. While it may not have the name recognition of some of Mexico’s other beach destinations, Ixtapa Zihuatanejo boasts its own brand of magic. In fact, Zihuatanejo was recently awarded the prestigious title of “Magical Town” by the Mexican government, recognizing the unique cultural and natural attractions found here, of which there are many.

Snorkelling in Zihuatanejo

MAD FOR MEXICO IXTAPA ZIHUATANEJO

Here are some highlights to be found in this little gem: BEAUTIFUL BEACHES One major appeal lies in the stunning beaches, each with its own personality and charm. Playa La Ropa boasts calm waters ideal for swimming and paddleboarding, and sunsets here are always photoworthy. Playa Las Gatas, accessed by a quick water taxi ride, is a good spot to do some snorkeling (equipment is available to rent). You can also find sunbeds and numerous eateries making it the perfect place to spend a beach day. Playa Quieta is large, serene, and ideal for swimming, kayaking and sailing.

Zihuatanejo’s bay on the Pacific Ocean

CULINARY DELIGHTS Any visit to Ixtapa Zihuatanejo is enhanced by the abundance of excellent food. Fresh seafood abounds in all its forms, from panseared to grilled and everything in between. Don’t miss out on tiritas de pescado, which is similar to ceviche but the fish is cut into strips and marinated in green chiles, sliced onion and lime juice. Another must-try is bolillo relleno, a hearty sandwich stuffed with a stew-like filling of pork and vegetables. Wash it all down with a refreshing chilate, an ice-cold beverage made with chocolate, cinnamon, rice milk and brown sugar.

“Mexico’s coastline is gifted with charming destination choices, but few can match the allure of Ixtapa Zihuatanejo”

Tiritas “Zihua Style”

Quick tip: Don’t leave without visiting the Municipal Market, where you’ll find everything from artisanal treasures to local eats like taco de lengua (beef tongue taco) and chiles rellenos (stuffed chilies).

Maleno Flores, a local artist of handicrafts from Ixtapa Zihuatanejo

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 17

MAD FOR MEXICO IXTAPA ZIHUATANEJO

OUTDOOR ADVENTURE For a laid-back and relaxing destination, it is surprising how many options for excitement can be found here. If you prefer your adventure on two wheels, there are several mountain bike trails to explore. Adventure on the water consists of everything from paddleboarding to surfing. Playa Linda and La Saladita are renowned for their waves. Originating as a fishing village, Ixtapa Zihuatanejo is one of the best destinations in Mexico for sport fishing. NATURE IS EVERYWHERE In addition to bountiful beaches, this region is home to jungle, lagoons and mountains. Just 15 minutes from the Ixtapa Zihuatanejo airport you’ll find the small fishing village of Barra de Potosí, home to more than 270 species of migratory and native birds, earning its status as a vital hub of Mexico’s biodiversity. In addition, La Isla is easily accessible by taking a boat from the dock at Playa Linda, where you’ll find unique rock formations, giant cacti and several beaches to explore. If you visit from November to March, you have a good chance of spotting turtles, manta rays, dolphins and even humpback whales. Ixtapa Zihuatanejo is a destination that makes it easy to get lost in the moment and focus entirely on the beauty that surrounds you. Moments of reflection and peaceful relaxation are brilliantly combined with as much or as little adventure as you like. Vibrant jungle, beautiful beaches and genuine charm are just the beginning– and the backdrop of this “magical slice of paradise.”

Local fishermen in Zihuatanejo

A perfect sunrise experience in Ixtapa Zihuatanejo

GETTING THERE

Turtle releasing-not to be missed!

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 18

“Catching a wave”, a destination top 10

Direct flights are available in the winter season from Calgary and Vancouver with WestJet and Air Canada from Vancouver, Toronto and Montreal. Connecting flights are available from gateways across Canada, with year-round flights available via Mexico City with Aeromexico.

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 19

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 20

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 21

EXPLORING THE MANY SIDES OF THE

Mexican Caribbean

Cancun

From beautiful beaches to rich history and culture, this region is home to everything that makes Mexico so memorable

he Mexican Caribbean offers a diverse tapestry of experiences, appealing to a wide range of travellers. With over 900 kilometres of coastline, 19 archaeological sites, eight national parks and plenty of opportunities for wildlife viewing, birdwatching and island-hopping, this region has something for everyone.

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 22

CANCÚN: WHERE IT ALL BEGINS Cancún serves as the gateway to the Mexican Caribbean, and will likely be your first stop in the area. Known for its numerous beachfront hotels and resorts and beautiful stretches of sand, Cancun also offers plenty of variety when it comes to what to see and do. There are six golf courses here and 10 Bue Flag-certified beaches, as well as spectacular spas where treatments often incorporate Mayan traditions and local ingredients. There are several archeological sites to explore and it’s also worth stopping by the Museo Maya de Cancún, housing one of the most significant archeological collections of Mayan culture in all of Mexico. COZUMEL, HOLBOX AND ISLA MUJERES: ISLAND TIME If it’s a laid-back pace you’re after, whether for a day or a week, the islands of the Mexican Caribbean might be your answer. Cozumel is the largest island in the region and known as one of the best dive sites in the world. It’s also home to several archaeological sites, including San Gervasio, the largest on the island and well worth visiting. Isla Mujeres is an ideal spot to base yourself for fun both in and on the water, from sport fishing and kayaking to windsurfing and speedboat rides. Holbox, located

Cozumel

Isla Mujeres

SPONSORED CONTENT VELAS RESORTS

Unveiling Velas Resorts’

HIDDEN GEMS Discover two boutique hotels within the Velas family offering understated elegance and a personal approach to luxury

Táu beach club by Casa Velas

hen it comes to exceptional accommodations, Velas Resorts is a consistently renowned name, for good reason. Still, it’s worth highlighting two treasures within the Velas family that stand out for their emphasis on personalized service and unique charm.

CASA VELAS Casa Velas, an adults-only all-inclusive boutique retreat in Puerto Vallarta, opened its doors in 2005 with just 80 suites. Reminiscent of a Spanish hacienda, the property is rated four Diamonds by AAA and was awarded four stars by Forbes Travel Guide. The location couldn’t be better–just a stone’s throw from the beach and only 15 minutes from the bustling downtown area with its art galleries, historic sites and can’t-miss Malecon (boardwalk). Relax and unwind overlooking the ocean at Táu Beach Club, offering handcrafted cocktails, Bali beds, gourmet dining, a pool and a Jacuzzi. Suites are spacious with some featuring private immersion pools and outdoor Jacuzzis. Golfers take note: Casa Velas offers complimentary rounds at three signature-designed 18-hole courses. The hotel also boasts an on-site organic botanical garden (herbs grown here are used in both spa treatments and at the restaurant) and a diverse range of wellness-themed services, including mindfulness labyrinths inspired by the four elements and the rejuvenating ABJA Spa (don’t miss the hydrotherapy ritual).

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 32 Casa Velas lobby

Dining at Casa Velas is an experience unto itself–Emiliano is the property’s signature restaurant with a focus on gourmet Mexican cuisine using only the freshest ingredients, some harvested from the aforementioned botanical garden. Guests also have access to the restaurants at sister resort Velas Vallarta, including beachfront La Ribera and fine dining spot, Andrea.

Casa Velas pool and gardens

MAR DEL CABO Located along the corridor between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, Mar del Cabo is a boutique hotel that seamlessly blends Greek and Mexican influences, creating a beachside Mediterranean vibe. Characterized by soaring archways, terracotta roofs, handcrafted tiles and white-washed walls, the hotel’s design is chic and inviting. Mar del Cabo, a European Plan property, offers 48 well-appointed one and two-bedroom suites with everything you need for a comfortable stay (including kitchenettes). Airy, bright and adorned with local art and handicrafts, each space makes it easy to feel immediately at home.

For anyone seeking serenity, the hotel offers various treatments at the sprawling SE Spa at sister resort Grand Velas Los Cabos, featuring a must-try hydrotherapy circuit known as the Water Ceremony.

GRAND VELAS BOUTIQUE HOTEL LOS CABOS Opening later this year will be Grand Velas Boutique Hotel Los Cabos, a 79-suite adults only luxury property. The boutique hotel will feature an infinity pool, wellness centre, gourmet dining and elevated service.

Enjoy organic à la carte breakfast at Encanto Farm & Sea, including homemade bread, Mexican dishes, coffee and juices. Lunch and dinner here put the focus on local fish, seafood, plant-based plates and bold flavours. It’s also worth noting the bulk of the ingredients used in each dish come from nearby providers. Grand Velas Boutique Hotel Los Cabos

Mar del Cabo

Mar del Cabo 1 Bedroom Ocean Suite

EXPLORING THE VELAS FAMILY In addition to Casa Velas and Mar del Cabo, the award-winning Velas family of resorts includes Grand Velas Los Cabos, Grand Velas Riviera Maya, Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit and Velas Vallarta, found in some of Mexico’s most memorable destinations, including Playa del Carmen, Puerto Vallarta and Cabo San Lucas. Known as a pioneer of all-inclusive luxury in Mexico, Velas Resorts has built a trusted brand that goes above

and beyond when it comes to service, amenities, accommodations and dining. Whether travelling as a couple, as a family, or in a group of friends, Velas’ commitment to creating a memorable escape in Mexico is evident in everything they offer. Velasresorts.com TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 2023 || 33 TRAVELLIFE FALL

MAD FOR MEXICO BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR

BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR

A LOCAL LOOK AT THE BEST OF

Travel Life sits down with Jesus Ordoñez, general director for the Board of Tourism of Baja California Sur, to get the inside scoop on this under-the-radar destination

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 34

Jesus “Chuy” Ordoñez at the Santa Teresa Canyon in San Francisco de la Sierra in Mulegé

“

But once you immerse yourself and explore the sites and culture, you understand how diverse this territory is.” Dolphins at the Loreto Bay National Park

Chuy with his Calico fish freshly caught at Bahía Asunción in Mulegè

Freshly caught clams at Isla San Roque in Bahía Asunción, Mulegè

TL: How long have you worked for Baja

TL: In your job, I imagine you have had

JO: The best food for me is whatever you

California Sur and what is your favourite

the opportunity to travel the globe. What

catch that day. You clean it and prepare

part of the job?

makes Baja California Sur so unique in

it right there with the fishermen.

what it has to offer?

Scallops, oysters and chocolata clams

JO: I have been with the Board of

are some of my favorites, but I also love

Tourism of Baja California Sur for a

JO: It’s the apparent simplicity and off-

the local goods from the ranches: fresh-

little over seven years. I love that I get

the-beaten-path feel of the destinations.

made cheese, hand-made tortillas and

to connect people who want to explore

Most of the areas in Baja California

the best beans you`ll ever try.

amazing places to the special people

Sur, excluding Los Cabos, are not very

who live in these places and create a

developed, especially the northern part of

TL: What is the most surprising thing

fantastic experience for everybody.

the state. But once you immerse yourself

nature in Baja has to offer?

I know almost every corner of Baja

and explore the sites and culture, you

California Sur which makes it easier

understand how diverse this territory is.

JO: The most surprising thing about

for me to share the wonders of our

Underwater, on the water, by the Sierra

nature in Baja is its abundance. Let`s

destinations so people who want to

range and in the desert–the heritage

not forget that this is a desert. It can

travel and explore can fall in love with

and history here are vast. It has been

feel inhospitable, but it just takes a few

our paradise.

untouched by the modern world in many

drops of rain to see the desert flourish

ways and things are still done like they

before your eyes. The contrast of the

TL: What is your favorite part of living in

were in the old days. The locals are very

desert meeting the turquoise waters of

the region?

proud of their roots and their traditions

the Gulf of California is breathtaking,

and are well aware of the magnificent

and of course, we have an abundance of

JO: My favorite part is how big and diverse

gifts that are the natural resources of the

marine life on both the Pacific side and

the region is. It is incredible how in just

region.

the Gulf of California side. Every day out

one day you can be in many different

in the ocean is a different experience;

places that are unique, pristine and just

TL: What is your favourite food that you

plain beautiful. I am always in awe at how

feel is unique to your region?

you’ll never live the same day twice.

beautiful all of Baja California Sur is. TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 35

“

Best place to see the Baja sunset

My top suggestions are the sand dunes in Guerrero Negro and Laguna de San Ignacio, both on the Pacific side of the Peninsula.”

Sunset on the La Paz malecon

TL: What is the best place/way to watch a Baja sunset? JO: There are so many! My top suggestions are the sand dunes in Guerrero Negro and Laguna de San Ignacio, both on the Pacific side of the Peninsula. Another very special spot is Santa Teresa Canyon where, as the sun sets, its rays bring out the different shades of red, yellow and orange of the canyon walls. TL: Loreto/Baja California Sur has always been considered somewhat off the beaten path, but WestJet’s direct flight to Calgary shows Canadians have begun discovering this hidden gem. How does

San Francisco Javier in Loreto

the destination preserve authenticity and keep visitors feeling like they have

maintaining the culture and heritage that

JO: I think every Canadian that has made

experienced one of Mexico’s best-kept

makes them so unique in the world. They

Loreto their second (or full-time) home

secrets?

want visitors to learn about and preserve

has become part of the local community

it with them. Locals are very proud of their

because of the similarities in our cultures.

roots and who they are.

Both Canadians and Loretanos respect

JO: I am confident the authenticity of

nature, enjoy the outdoors and are

Loreto will always be there, due to the fact the local community is committed to TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 36

TL: Tell us about the Canadian expat community living in Loreto.

welcoming and kind people.

Golf Course at Loreto Bay

Dowtown Loreto

Mobulas at Danzante Island in the Loreto Bay National Park

Mission of San Francisco Javier

TL: The Sea of Cortez is considered

TL: How does the destination’s history

Can you share some recommendations

one of the world’s best playgrounds

enhance the visitor experience?

for things the average tourist would not

teeming with sea life. What is your most memorable moment in/on the water?

know about? JO: This is definitely a big part of the experience of Loreto because you see it all

JO: One would be going to San Javier

JO: As an avid diver there are many.

around you. All the locals know the history

and spending at least one night there.

Swimming with marlins and orcas. Having

and the traditions and they are happy

It is a very small community of only

a baby sea lion board our boat to rest

to share them with you. Our history is

a couple hundred people, so you’ll

when he got a bit lost from his pack

unique and goes back thousands of years,

really get to immerse yourself in the

and returning him to his family safe and

creating all these layers of how Loreto has

culture and way of life of the locals. I

sound. Diving with a school of thousands

become what it is today and how all of that

also suggest visiting La Purisima for

of yellowtail or with a bunch of sharks.

makes it so different and unique.

a few days to hike this beautiful area

Every time you get in the waters of the

listen to the local history and stories

Gulf of California you’ll be energetically

TL: More and more, Canadian travellers

and delight in the food-nothing fancy

supercharged; It makes you really

are looking to truly immerse themselves

but great flavours, made with love that

consider how special this place is and how

in a destination and experience local life.

only locals can provide.

privileged we are to be living here.

How To Get There

Take advantage of convenient, direct service with WestJet from Calgary to Loreto every Friday from November to April with connecting flights from across Canada. For more information, visit vamosaloreto.com and visitbajasur.travel.

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 37

INSIDE CRUISING HIDDEN GEMS

Hidden Gems

CRUISE LINE PRIVATE ISLANDS

Ocean Cay Marine Reserve

Experience your most unforgettable beach days on a cruise

BY LYNN ELMHIRST Producer/Host of World’s Greatest Cruises on PBS TV

rivate islands were once the exclusive playgrounds of the rich and famous. Then cruise lines discovered they were the perfect way to give guests not just a day on the beach, but travel memories they can’t create anywhere else. The Bahamas are the ‘cay’ to the cruise ship private island phenomenon. In addition to 700 islands, the Bahamas also has 2,400, small, sandy ‘cays’ (pronounced ‘keys’)–all within a stone’s throw–or anchor’s drop–of cruise lines’ home ports in Florida.

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 38

Cruise line private islands have now spread beyond the Bahamas, as cruise lines compete with one another to build distinctly different tropical enclaves for guests to experience the ultimate day at the beach only reachable by cruise ship. Here are a few that stand out. NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE’S GREAT STIRRUP CAY This is the cruise line private island that started it all in the Caribbean. Palm trees dot the beachfront resort that turns into a party whenever one of the cruise line’s megaships calls for the day. The tunes keep the mood lively as guests enjoy watersports including standup paddleboards, kayaks, parasailing or banana boats, or just laze in hammocks and lounges. In addition to the enticing beach grill, guests can choose from a complimentary taco bar, a food truck, branded Patron Bar for refreshing margaritas and a branded Bacardi Bar if your tastes run Great Stirrup Cay

Top photo courtesy of: MSC Cruises; bottom photo: Norwegian Cruise Line

more to mojitos. Silver Cove offers private luxury beach villas on the Cay. ROYAL CARIBBEAN’S COCO CAY Royal Caribbean uses the American pronunciation to dub its private island “Perfect Day at Coco Cay,” and like its mega-ships, takes the theme park approach to cruise line private islands to a whole different level. Sparkling seas and white sand beaches with private floating cabanas at Coco Beach Club are the backdrop to fun for all ages: slide down the tallest waterslide in North America, soar in a 450-foot high helium balloon ride, or splash around in the largest freshwater pool in the Caribbean. Ten or 12 hours on shore may only scratch the surface–luckily cruises overnight at Coco Cay for two whole days of private island fun.

MSC CRUISES’ OCEAN CAY MARINE RESERVE

BEYOND THE CAYS: SPECIAL MENTIONS

MSC Cruises rehabilitated a former sand extraction site, removing tons of debris and implementing a coral repopulation program as part of its vision for a sustainability-focused beach resort at Ocean Cay Marine Reserve. Eight different beaches give you infinite options for seaside relaxation, or getting more active, including snorkelling among the renewed coral and ocean life, as well as kayak and jet ski tours. A DJ spins tunes beneath the

Not all cruise line private islands are Caribbean, and MSC Cruises’ Sir Bani Yas is a spectacular example. The Mediterraneanbased cruise line has a private island for its Arabian cruises; an island off the coast of Abu Dhabi home to a desert wildlife refuge where you can see giraffes, gazelles, cheetahs and oryx surrounded by flamingo-filled mangroves and stunning seaside oases for the ultimate in beachfront pleasure.

HOLLAND AMERICA LINE’S HALF MOON CAY Half Moon Cay gets its name from the crescent-shaped white sand beach, lapped by gentle, turquoise waves that dominates the island. It’s irresistible and hard to tear yourself away, but there are good reasons to: horseback riding in the surf, glass bottom boats, bicycle tours of the island, kayak ecotours of the lagoon–and even feeding and touching the gentle inhabitants of Stingray Cove. Treat yourself

landmark lighthouse, which illuminates nightly with 20,000 LED pixels as fire pits dot the beach before late night sailaways from this private island.

Ultra-luxury cruise line Seabourn is famous for weaving complimentary caviar into its onboard lifestyle and perhaps its most decadent signature shore experience is Caviar in the Surf. Cruises in the Caribbean anchor off of Carambola Beach in St. Kitts and voyages through Southeast Asia anchor at Ko Kood, Thailand for private beach parties where fully uniformed ship’s officers, standing waist-up in the sea, serve guests caviar and champagne off surfboards!

Caviar in the surf

Half Moon Cay

to a lobster roll and a margarita at the beachside Lobster Shack before heading back into the waves. Lovebirds can even get married at the tropical chapel.

Perfect day at Coco Cay

Middle left photo courtesy of: MSC Cruises; middle right: Seabourne; bottom left: Holland America Line; bottom right: Royal Caribbean International

TRAVELLIFE FALL 2023 | 39

Chicago

It’s not hard to fall for this eclectic city, a haven for everyone from foodies and fans of architecture to history buffs and art lovers By Mark Stevens

Charmed by

CHICAGO T

he Windy City. Frank Sinatra’s “Kind of Town.” Inspiration for songs but also a brash metropolis the poet Carl Sandburg called “City of the Big Shoulders.” Chicago is a city with multiple personalities and myriad appeals; a city that’s both unpretentious and elegant, appealing to foodies, music-lovers, art connoisseurs and history buffs alike. It’s a city that rose from its own ashes– the fire of 1871–to eventually become an architectural showpiece Frank Lloyd Wright once predicted would “become the most beautiful great city left in the world.” Come for a visit and you’re sure to be charmed by Chicago. STAY I was smitten the moment I stepped into the Baroque lobby of the Blackstone Hotel. This fine example of neoclassical BeauxArts architecture is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Twelve U.S. presidents have stayed here. Al Capone used to patronize their erstwhile barber shop. The Beatles once held an impromptu concert in the Crystal Ballroom. Rooms here are comfortable and elegant, boasting contemporary décor and luxurious marble bathrooms. Local TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 40

Blackstone Hotel

art adorns the walls and there are panoramic views of Grant Park and Lake Michigan just beyond. In addition to the ambiance and pedigree of this stellar property, it has a prime location in a neighbourhood called “Cultural Mile” located on Michigan Avenue.

been rated one of America’s best views. Return to street level and window shop– or partake more seriously. This stretch boasts more than 450 different retail establishments. But I’m determined to return to the “Cultural Mile,” host to the annual jazz festival and the reason my wife and I have chosen these dates (early September) to visit. After a quick stop to check out the surreal “Cloud-Gate” sculpture holding court at Millennium Park, we enter the Jay Pritzker Pavilion, a premier outdoor concert venue designed by Frank Gehry. The architecture is pure Gehry but for me, it’s all about the sound. No matter where I sit (and I tested several locations) the acoustics, thanks to stateof-the-art sonic technology, are perfect. It was tough to drag myself away, but my wife likes art as much as I like jazz. That’s why our next stop is the nearby Art Institute of Chicago.

EXPLORE If Chicago were a tree, Michigan Avenue would be the trunk–it’s the perfect place to begin our exploration. Our first stop is the historic water tower, one of the few buildings that survived the Great Fire and a sombre memorial to that catastrophe. Next, we ride the elevator to the 360 Chicago observation deck. Check out the vistas from 300 metres above the city’s Magnificent Mile, taking in what’s

Michigan Avenue

CITY ESCAPES CHICAGO

LEARN Step beneath the arched portico guarding the limestone façade of this 1890s landmark and enjoy works ranging from Picasso to Dali. Almost immediately I negotiate the gallery to gaze at two of my favourite masterpieces: “Nighthawks” and “American Gothic.” More learning awaits at the Field Museum of Natural History. This august lakeside marvel could hold its own next to the Acropolis (no doubt its design owes much to classical Greek architecture) and its atrium feels more like a temple than a museum. With a collection of more than 64 million artifacts, the museum lets you learn about meteorites, guides you into an Egyptian tomb, and offers close-up encounters with dinosaurs. The last stop on our educational journey is Shedd Aquarium right next door. Cuddle with a beluga whale or feed a shark. Meet a sea otter or even a penguin. And in between, simply marvel at the underwater life all around you.

DINE Our first stop on arrival in the city is lunch at Buddy Guy’s Legends, a fascinating combination of history and cuisine. Even though it’s just past noon on a Thursday, a singer serenades us with blues classics. It’s the perfect accompaniment to our excellent Cajuninspired meal and the perfect soundtrack for this establishment, owned by a Rock and Roll Hall of Famer, and a veritable museum of musical artifacts.

Art Institute

PLAY I love all things nautical so I’m thrilled to be on the Chicago River on an architecture cruise aboard a boat dubbed Chicago’s First Lady. We glide past majestic monoliths–masterpieces of Art Deco, Neoclassical, Modern and even PostModern design. Some are whimsical, some inspiring, some downright ecclesiastical. Next, I hit the waters of Lake Michigan, skimming the waves with Captain Mike Blanchard from Come Sailing Yacht Charters on Druid, a classic 28’ sailing sloop.

You’ll discover a wealth of dining options in the city–Magnificent Mile alone boasts three hundred restaurants–but make sure you don’t miss Lou Malnati’s Pizzeria. You haven’t done Chicago until you’ve done Chicago-style deep dish pizza. And you haven’t done Chicago-style pizza until you’ve done it at Lou Malnati’s, Chicago’s premier purveyor of this gourmet masterpiece since 1971. Framed by a buttery crust, Lou’s Chicago-style pizza is easily two inches high, boasting vine-ripened California tomatoes (canned exclusively for Lou Malnati’s use), Wisconsin cheese and specially blended sausage. Buon appetito.

Come winter, there are options for rooftop curling, skating at Millennium Park, or sledding down the 60-metre hill at Soldier Field.

Pritzker Pavillion

Lou Malnati’s

IF YOU GO • For all things Chicago, from events to attractions, check out choosechicago.com.

Cloud Gate

All photos by: Sharon Matthews-Stevens

Boat Tour

• With flights coming in at just under two hours from Toronto, Chicago’s downright convenient. Porter offers twice-daily options while Air Canada flies direct four times a day. TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 41

FOODIE FILES

PHONEIX COCKTAILS

Three Turn-of-theCentury Cocktail Bars, One Prohibited Era

Century Grand in Phoenix, Arizona houses a departed era in the form of a train, ship and apothecary By Sabrina Pirillo

uring the 1920s, some people believed that alcohol was the cause of all social ills which is what eventually ushered in the Prohibition era. Forbidding the sale and import of alcoholic beverages led to bootlegging and opened the door for speakeasies to function as a haven for people to enjoy giggle water. The Prohibition era may be long gone, but one company has not forgotten about this historic time and pays homage in the form of three elevated cocktail experiences.

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 42

Once home to a Jiffy Lube, Century Grand opened in Phoenix, Arizona in 2019 and offers an award-winning beverage program from Barter & Shake, spearheaded by co-founder, Jason Asher. Each curated experience is completely unique: all aboard Platform 18, a 1920s Pullmaninspired train car; Grey Hen Rx is a prohibition-era style apothecary bar and UnderTow is a spice trader’s turn-of-the-century Clipper ship. Each interactive journey lasts 90 minutes. The menus boast an extensive list of creative cocktails,

and each story takes visitors on an extraordinary adventure. PLATFORM 18 Stepping onto Platform 18 comes with a wow factor. This immersive ride takes you through the early 20th century on an elegant thirtysix-seat Presidential Pullmaninspired train car. It follows the fictitious hero, Hollis Cottley Pennington, a railroad tycoon and bootlegger, as he conducts business in the bayous of Louisiana (the video changes with every new menu/

Train car at Platform 18

chapter released). With more than 45 handmade concoctions to choose from, the menu features everything from original cocktails to old classics from the 1930s and 1940s. It even includes ice cream and sorbet options, all crafted by the expert bartenders on board. Go ahead, have the Last Word Ice Cream, made with citadelle gin, green chartreuse, luxardo maraschino liqueur, lime, cream, eggs and an absinthe waffle cone. GREY HEN RX Grey Hen Rx is inspired by New Orleans, the first city to establish and license a professional pharmacist in the United States. During prohibition, patrons would walk into a pharmacy or an apothecary to speak to a pharmacist. Asking for a Grey Hen was asking for a bottle of moonshine. With more than five hundred bottles lining the walls of this apothecary bar, an experienced pharmacist will cure what ails you with a curated selection of the best bourbons, whiskeys and drinks from a New Orleans-inspired cocktail menu. All photos by: Grace Stufkosky

The 100 years, 100 more cocktail includes Balvenie 21-year port barrel finished scotch and Balvenie 14year Caribbean rum cask topped off with smoke and a birdcage. While sipping your handcrafted cocktail, look up at the massive Nile crocodile who—as legend has it—came over on UnderTow and smuggled the gin used onboard Platform 18. UNDERTOW UnderTow boasts two locations: the Century Grand in Phoenix and the new Epicenter–a high-end, vertically integrated mixed-use community and retail destination at the centre of Agritopia, an urban farm community—in Gilbert (just south of Mesa). Passengers will experience this nautical-inspired craft cocktail bar from the belly of a spice trader’s ship, following the adventures of Captain John Mallory and his crew. The menu features worldly, classic Tiki and exotic cocktails along with rums from around the world. Sip on your A Sunrise Over Baja cocktail while watching the sunrise through the ship’s porthole. TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 43

A Spooky Side of

NEW

S N A E L OR Discovering the haunts and history that make this Louisiana city so unique By Mark Stevens

y mind is wonderfully focused as I stand by the elegant wrought iron gates marking the entrance carved into the stone wall encompassing Lafayette Cemetery No. 1, located in the charming Garden District of New Orleans. I gaze into the burial ground and take in a procession of tombs lining narrow paths; tombs with Corinthian pillars, sporting carved crucifixes and casting ominous shadows on an early morning a few days past All-Hallows’ Eve. I am about to embark on a tour of these sacred spaces that are the stuff of nightmares and I can’t escape a subtle feeling of dread as I wait for it to begin.

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 44

Herein lies a tomb that inspired Anne Rice’s Interview with a Vampire, a tomb that features in the TV show Mayfair Witches (based on an Anne Rice trilogy). It’s no mere coincidence that her former home (where she wrote Mayfair Witches) is just a couple of blocks behind me. It’s also no coincidence that the world-class restaurant right nearby–Commander’s Palace–reputedly hosts two ghosts. This section of New Orleans might be ground zero for spookiness, while the city itself is a hotbed of history. On a post-tour stroll through the Garden District, I’m struck by the prevalence of antebellum mansions. Jefferson Davis, president of the Confederacy during the Civil War, breathed his last in one such mansion.

DISCOVERIES

HISTORY AND HAUNTS

WWII Museum

Across the city an entire neighbourhood oozes history, for the French Quarter offers up some of the most extensive collections of period architecture anywhere in the United States. As you stroll the city’s streets after sundown, past buildings boasting flickering gaslights and ornate wrought iron balconies, narrow cobblestone alleys display both French influences from the early eighteenth century and Spanish influences from the late 1700s. Stop here and enter the cathedral for yet one more dose of history and haunts. St. Louis Cathedral, with its tripartite steeples rising up from a historic square populated by fortune tellers and buskers, where the clip-clop of horse hooves pulling elegant carriages lays down a rhythmic ostinato, is the United States’ oldest continuously operating Catholic cathedral. But history is hardly the only character in this drama. No less than twelve New Orleans luminaries are All photos by: Sharon Matthews-Stevens

interred within the church’s confines itself. Perchance this venue, too, plays host to haunts. Next visit the Cabildo, a distinguished Spanish colonial structure home to part of the Louisiana State Museum system, or nearby Presbytére, housed in an eighteenth-century building. For more recent history stop by the National World War II Museum, boasting interactive exhibits and dioramas that place you on the ground during some of the most important American offensives of that conflagration. Cross the city on a signature trolley car for even more history–the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line has actually been designated a National Historic Landmark. Experience a key chapter in NOLA’s history with a visit to the Jazz Museum. Take in a live concert at Preservation Hall or stop and reflect at Congo Square, where jazz originated. Combine your history and haunts with a visit to the Voodoo Museum, a post-

Voodoo readings

twilight Haunted City tour, or a tour of St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. Stop at the tomb of Marie Leveau and channel the spirit of the Voodoo Queen. Don’t leave New Orleans without refreshing yourself with a helping of Jambalaya washed down with a glass of Sazerac, a cocktail synonymous with New Orleans. It’s the perfect chance to bond with spirits of a different sort–here in the capital of haunts and history.

For more information, visit Louisianatravel.com/Canada.

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 45

Following the New

BRUNSWICK COAST

Hopewell Rocks

From gourmet cuisine to sea kayaking and wilderness hiking, this province’s unique coastline is well worth a multi-day exploration

he fog is thick and deep, casting a white spell over the landscape. Without sight, there is only sound. A fog horn punctuates the silence. Grey seals grunt and snort. Cormorants flap their wings against the water. And a horn announces the first ferry heading from Deer Island to neighbouring Campobello. This is morning on a deserted island in New Brunswick’s Bay of Fundy, a place that is unique in the world for having the highest tides. Water rises and land disappears. It lowers, and you can explore the ocean floor. With more than 5,500 kilometers of rugged coastline, exploring New Brunswick’s coast is about discovering the unexpected and relishing in its mysteries: sea caves at high tide, islands without people, 320-million-year-old fossils and beaches that go on forever. During a 10-day trip, we explored the coastline in several ways.

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 46

By Diana Ballon

KAYAKING THROUGH THE FUNDY ISLES With a tide change that happens on average every six hours and 13 minutes, the shoreline is constantly shifting. And when kayaking, you can combine time on the water with island hopping, picnics on deserted islands, perhaps a stop at a lighthouse, and endless hours to enjoy the abundant wildlife that thrives in the Bay’s cold, nutrient-rich waters. Bay of Fundy Adventures offers many wilderness experiences, but it was their three-day Fundy Isles Sea Kayaking Adventure that attracted me the most. This excursion combined the allure of spending time out in the wilderness, without ever being too far from shore. Leaving Deer Island, we paddled past salmon farms and herring traps and watched as bald eagles soared overhead and razorbills dipped into the water. We pulled up on a deserted beach for a picnic and then arrived to set up camp at Barnes Island, one of about 22 uninhabited islands In the Bay, by

Sea kayaking

mid-afternoon. While our guides Mike and Jordan set up the tents and made dinner, we explored the island and took a quick dip, letting out what Mike dubbed, the “Bay of Fundy scream.” At about 9 degrees Celsius, the water is definitely refreshing! Although a dislocated finger shortened our family’s trip, we would have spent the next couple of days visiting other islands, stopping for picnics and a swim, and visiting the Head Harbour Light Station. We would have paddled through “Whale Channel” for sightings of humpback, minke and finback whales, and enjoyed a salmon plank dinner after a full day’s exploration. It’s definitely full wilderness immersion! DINING AL FRESCO A professional ballet company performing on a stage overlooking the Strait of Northumberland while I enjoy a three-

Main photo by: Blue Motel Room Photography; middle photo by: Diana Ballon

DISCOVERIES

Dinner prep

course gourmet tasting menu? Sign me up! I was lucky enough to enjoy Ballet by the Ocean, thanks to dance company Ballet Atlantique for the stellar performance and esteemed Tony Atelier executive chef, Jordan Holden and his team for the amazing meal. Because the stage is set in a privately owned protected wetland, I also appreciated cameos from the song sparrow, great blue heron and osprey flying overhead! A more down-home, but no less memorable experience was our “lobster tales” boat tour and meal with Shediac Bay Cruises. The eminently charismatic captain, Ron Cormier regaled us with funny tales of lobster catching and also provided valuable tips on how to crack open and eat a lobster without embarrassing yourself. Along with the entertainment, the Captain also provided important conservation messages on lobster fishing. HIGH TIDES AND LOW With each epic tide change, 160 billion tons of water rush into the bay. That same amount of water would take a year and nine months to flow over the American and Canadian Niagara Falls combined! There’s no better way to appreciate the dramatic fluctuation between high and low tides (up to 17 metres or equal to the height of a five-storey building) than to walk the ocean floor at low tide and then kayak its waters when they are high. Two great areas to do this are at the sea caves in St. Martins, a beautiful coastal town about 45 minutes from St. John; and at

NEW BRUNSWICK

Hopewell Rocks, known for its dramatic Flower Pot Rocks created by years of tidal erosion.

Wildlife

The sea caves at St Martins are part of the Stonehammer UNESCO Global Geopark and the Fundy Biosphere Reserve, making it the only place in North America with two overlapping UNESCO designations. TRAVERSING THE FUNDY PARKWAY This 30-kilometre parkway on the southern coast of New Brunswick took $100 million and 25 years to build. With an entrance just eight kilometres from St. Martins, it’s an easy day trip from the small community. The Parkway boasts 21 lookouts with beautiful vistas of deserted beaches and rugged coastline, as well as 35 kilometres of hiking and biking trails. More intense adventurers can hike the Fundy Footpath, a challenging four- to fiveday route along the coastline. Our favourite stops were the Fownes Head and Melvin Beach lookouts, Fuller Falls, a short walk along a path to a suspension bridge over Big Salmon River for a swim, and a hike down to Seeley Beach. We also loved the one-kilometre walk to Walton Glen Gorge, dubbed “the Grand Canyon of New Brunswick.” The lookout is on the edge of a 40-metre cliff that drops into a gorge, with large waterfalls in the valley below. New Brunswick’s coastline is brimming with new things to discover, for everyone from foodies to outdoor enthusiasts.

Top left photo by: Blue Motel Room Photography; top middle by: Diana Ballon; top right by: Felix Eckley; right middle and bottom by: Blue Motel Room Photography

Fundy Parkway

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 47

DISCOVERIES TAIPEI

Three Unforgettable Days in

TAIPEI How an unplanned visit to this lively and fascinating city became a memorable journey By Judi Cohen

ometimes the best travel memories come from unexpected trips. Such was the case when my husband and I arrived in Taipei for our first time with no plans and no itinerary. Little did we know that Taipei’s charm would capture our hearts and turn our unplanned visit into an unforgettable journey. Our original plans called for a three-day Christmastime visit to Hong Kong before continuing onward to Laos, however, Hong Kong still had stringent COVID restrictions that would have prevented us from leaving our hotel. So, instead of Hong Kong, we quickly pivoted to spend three days in Taipei. Based on our experience, here are five tips if you’re planning to spend only a few days in Taipei–truly a city of ancient and modern contrasts. STAY AT A BOUTIQUE HOTEL IN TAIPEI’S FASHIONABLE DA’AN DISTRICT We managed to make a last-minute hotel reservation at Hotel Eclat in the Da’an district of central Taipei.

Aerial view of Taipei 101

Hotel Éclat, Taipei

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 48

Sculpture in lobby entrance Hotel Éclat

Hotel Eclat was adorned with Christmas decorations and had festive Christmas music welcoming us. We felt at home right away and were given Christmas gifts upon arrival. Although Christmas is not celebrated by local families, the stores, malls and hotels sure took decorating pretty seriously. Our choice of hotel turned out to be perfect, with a restaurant in-house and a treasure box of art adorning the walls. The hotel’s décor included two Salvador Dali sculptures and several paintings by other notable artists.

Mall with designer shops near Taipei 101

RIDE THE BIG RED SIGHTSEEING BUS As in other large cities, Taipei has tourist buses with a variety of routes to choose from at a reasonable cost. Riding the Big Red Sightseeing Bus with recorded announcements telling us about the city’s highlights was a great way to get an overview of the city in under three hours. STROLL ALONG THE OLDEST STREET IN TAIPEI’S DADAOCHENG DISTRICT Taipei’s oldest district with historic Japanese, Chinese and Taiwanese architecture is called Dadaocheng. On Dihua Street, the heart and soul of Dadaocheng, you will find barrels of spices, herbs, nuts and Taiwanese produce overflowing onto the sidewalks from the tiny shops along the street. One of the oldest temples in Taiwan, Xiahai City God Temple, built in 1856 is located on Dihua Street as well. Worshippers carrying incense come here to pray for a happy love life, and who doesn’t wish for that? With so much to see, the narrow street took us half the day to walk, even though it is just one kilometre long. GET A BIRDS-EYE VIEW AT TAIPEI 101 AND SHOP TILL YOU DROP We walked to the tallest building in Taiwan, called Taipei 101, so named because it contains 101 stories with several observation decks for

Dragon fruit in Market, Taipei

panoramic views of the city. Taipei 101 is visible from every corner of the city! A variety of designer shops surround the tower, along with dozens of restaurants, bars and international tea shops. A TASTE OF TAIPEI: NIGHT MARKETS, STREET FOOD AND GOURMET ITALIAN DINING Located close to Taipei 101 is the Tonghua (Linjiang Street) Night Market. Night markets offer clothing, housewares, crafts, tobacco and local foods. Just walking the street and into the laneways was an experience, watching the bubbling pots of oil and enjoying the wafting smells of all varieties of food. After 7 p.m. the market became very crowded with lineups for many of the street foods. Follow the crowds and you’ll find awesome all-day breakfast. You do not need a translator–simply point to the food you would like, and you’ll likely be ordering something scrumptious– we loved the delicious green scallion pancakes. On Christmas Eve, we stumbled upon Sowieso, a wonderful Italian restaurant near our hotel. The owner, Dorothy Hung is a wine master and sommelier, and her husband John Hung is a European-trained chef. It was serendipity that brought us here, as we were struggling to find a place to eat on a very busy night. They warmly welcomed us in, although

All photos by Judi Cohen except main photo, courtesy of Taiwan Tourism.

Traditional herbs and medicine shop in Dihua Street, Taipei

the restaurant was very full. The chef prepared an elaborate, authentic Italian meal of his choosing and his wife carefully paired wine from an impressive collection. We lingered for hours talking about our families and travel plans, long after the other guests had left. John and Dorothy invited us to come back the next night “on the house.” They introduced us to some of their friends and we have stayed in touch with them since our visit.

BO NU S T I P You might also consider visiting a new synagogue in the heart of Taipei. My husband and I love to seek out synagogues in every city we travel to, and in Taipei, we were among the first international visitors to tour the brandnew Jeffrey D. Schwartz Jewish Community Center and Synagogue. Taiwan’s Jewish history goes back to the 20th century and the Center has curated artifacts and stories about Jewish traditions that can spark interest for Jewish and nonJewish visitors alike. I hope this helps if you are planning a short stop in Taipei or find yourself there unexpectedly for a few days. Embrace the opportunity to be spontaneous and adventurous and you’ll likely have a memorable time.

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 49

TRAVELLIFE.CA FALL 2023 | 50