Welcome to our exciting summer issue, where we shine a spotlight on adventure travel of all kinds. Whether you love the thrill of a physical challenge like hiking and biking or the satisfaction of an intellectual or soul-enriching journey, we have something for every kind of adventurer.
We weave exhilarating tales covering everything from trekking to scuba diving to sandboarding. For starters, one writer discovers a playground of unique experiences and opportunities for adventure in Canada’s High Arctic, while another learns to surf in El Salvador with her son in between hiking up volcanos. We also have a piece on the many sides of Colorado, which includes the aforementioned sandboarding, as well as hiking, road-tripping and hot spring-soaking.
If that weren’t enough, one writer recounts an unforgettable adventure driving through Spain along the iconic Ruta de la Plata. In addition, we have a list of travel must-haves for any type of adventure (from the world’s first self-cleaning water bottle to sporty yet stylish shades), as well as some high-energy activities in the hidden gem island nation of Antigua and Barbuda. If you’re a fan of underwater adventure, you won’t want to miss our story on diving and snorkelling in Fiji. We’ve also got a look at the many adventures in and around Cuenca in Ecuador’s Andean highlands
EMBRACING Adventure
For those who prefer adventures that stretch the mind versus the body, or simply take them outside of the ordinary, this issue features immersive cultural experiences, historical explorations and journeys into the heart of nature’s wonders. Discover the best Detroit has to offer, from excellent food and music to amazing architecture, street art and museums; explore the rich history and many varieties of wine in beautiful Portugal, learn about Indigenous culture in Banff and find out about how I had a meaningful glimpse of paying it forward on a recent trip to Jamaica at SOS Children’s Village. I also include some off-the-beaten-track gems on Jamaica’s south coast (don’t miss Floyd’s Pelican Bar). For a taste-focused adventure, chocolate fans will want to read all about a DIY chocolate tour of Brussels featuring unique and unforgettable treats.
Adventure travel is about pushing boundaries, discovering new facets of yourself and creating unforgettable memories. From the adrenaline-pumping to the soul-soothing, let these stories inspire you to embark on your own adventures, big or small. Embrace the unknown, seek the extraordinary and find the adventure that awaits you.
Here’s to new adventures on the horizon!
Tammy Cecco
TAMMY CECCO EDITOR IN CHIEF
CONTRIBUTORS
We asked some of our contributors to tell us about their most memorable adventure travel experience or the ones they currently have on their bucket list.
SUZANNE MORPHET
DIVE INTO FIJI, PAGE 48
Snorkelling in Antarctica absolutely tops my travel adventures. Thanks to companies like Aurora Expeditions, activities that would once have been limited to professional explorers are now available to ordinary people like you and me. Wearing dry suits and several layers of undergarments kept us warm on our twice-daily outings. The highlight was watching Adelie penguins speed past me like fighter pilots in formation. And not seeing Leopard seals while snorkeling was a huge relief!
NADINE ROBINSON
EL SALVADOR WAS MADE FOR ADVENTURE, PAGE 58
Seven items I have yet to scratch off my adventure travel bucket list include marvelling at an iceberg, witnessing a volcano eruption, seeing a polar bear striding across the tundra, kayaking near a narwhal, hugging a koala, paddleboarding with a manatee, and snorkelling with a whale shark. With any luck, Iceberg Alley in Newfoundland and Labrador will check the first off my list. Stay tuned!
DARCY RHYNO
DRIVING SPAIN’S ANCIENT ROMAN ROAD, PAGE 60
In the middle of a ten week roaming trip around Costa Rica; white water rafting on the Savegre River, then ascending to its jungle source 3,500 metes above sea level near the village of San Gerardo de Dota is an all-time favourite adventure. Toucans, waterfalls, monkeys, resplendent quetzals and a small trout farm supplying the few local restaurants with fresh and smoked fish added colour and flavour.
COVER PHOTO:
Walking into adventure in Chefchaouen, Morocco’s iconic Blue City.
Travel Life is published every quarter by D.M.E. and is independently owned. Opinions expressed in Travel Life are those of the authors, and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. Travel Life does not assume liability for content.
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Wherever your next trip takes you–from the
these items
Travel advisor Maria Maestri of TTI Travel shares her expert tips and insight for planning an
A
A Volunteer opportunity with SOS Children’s Village gave me even more reasons to love
38 ADVENTURE TRAVEL HOTSPOTS AROUND THE WORLD
The best places to visit if you’re craving adventure, from France and Spain to Canada, Mexico and beyond
EXPLORING THE ADVENTUROUS SIDE OF ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA
In between sunbathing sessions, get active with some of the many exciting experiences these islands have to offer
Head off the beaten path to experience two of the
From curry truffles and pralines
to chewy macarons, learn
Exploring
Secrets Riviera Cancun and Breathless Riviera Cancun Resort & Spa are
Forget everything you know (or think you know) about
so much more than you ever thought it could be
42 MAJESTIC COLORADO: WHERE ADVENTURE AWAITS
Discover the many sides of this stunning state, from epic hikes and soaring sand dunes, to rich history, craft cocktails and excellent food
48 DIVE INTO FIJI
This beautiful island nation is home to some of the best diving and snorkelling in the world
52 ADVENTURES IN AND AROUND CUENCA IN ECUADOR’S ANDEAN HIGHLANDS
This beautiful UNESCO-listed city is overflowing with charm and opportunities for everything from hiking to horseback riding
54 FEED YOUR SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE ON AN ARCTIC EXPEDITION CRUISE
Canada’s High Arctic offers a playground of unique experiences and opportunities for exciting discoveries
56 COLOMBIA’S AMAZON EXTENDS A WILD WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE
A visit to Colombia reveals a culturally rich tropical forest in the Upper Amazon where Brazil, Colombia and Peru meet
58 EL SALVADOR WAS MADE FOR ADVENTURE
Don’t sleep on this Central American gem when it comes to opportunities for stepping outside of your comfort zone
60 DRIVING SPAIN’S ANCIENT ROMAN ROAD
Two friends embark on an unforgettable adventure through Spain along the iconic Ruta de la Plata
62 INDIGENOUS EXPERIENCES IN BANFF, ALBERTA
Two unique and unforgettable ways to learn more about Indigenous culture in Canada
Must-Haves for Your Next Adventure
Adventure means something different for everyone, especially when it comes to travel. For one person, it could be a rigorous hike in the jungle or camping in the desert. For others, it may be as simple as exploring a new city solo or trying a totally new cuisine. Either way, adventure is what you make it. No matter where you’re heading next or what you’ll be doing, these handpicked items might come in handy.
1. Go-anywhere backpack
Crafted out of sustainable material, this timeless backpack comes in classic black or laid back desert beige, offering a stylish way to stash your essentials no matter where you’re going. We especially love the removable nylon pouch (the perfect place to store your go-tos), and the double front pockets for easy access to whatever you need most. prada.com/ca
2. Waterproof watch
Wherever your next trip takes you–from the beach to the mountains, these items will help ensure you pack like a pro
2023 marked the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms, what is known as the first true diver’s watch. This Blancpain X Swatch watch is an homage to that iconic undersea accessory and honours it with a design that breaths new life into an already eye-catching timepiece. Five inspirational inscriptions can be found on the back of the watch and the strap is made of recycled fishing nets that were removed from the sea. swatch.com/en-ca
Up your eye protection game with a pair of durable yet stylish sport sunglasses. Smith’s Bobcat uses a hybrid design that pairs goggle-like coverage with the airflow and comfort of traditional sunglasses. The unique ChromaPop lenses enhance contrast and natural colour, making details pop–perfect for your next hike or nature walk. A bonus clear lens is included for low-light needs. smithoptics.com/en_CA 1. 2.
3.
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3. Adventure-ready sneakers
Whether you’re running to catch a tram in Lisbon, searching the streets of Paris for the perfect baguette, or hiking a trail in the Adirondacks, these Moncler Trailgrip sneakers are made for whatever moves you. In addition to offering superior comfort and support, these shoes make it easy to get from trails to cobblestone streets with ease. moncler.com/en-ca
4. Sporty shades
5. Self-purifying water bottle
6. Lightweight jacket
7. 8. 9. 10.
Having easy access to water is an adventure essential, whether you’re exploring the streets of Rome or portaging to a remote campsite. The sleek LARQ Bottle PureVis is the world’s first self-cleaning water bottle and water purification system–simply fill it up, press the cap and give the bottle a gentle shake for clean water anywhere you are. livelarq.com
7. On-the-go espresso
Ensure you have access to good coffee no matter where your adventures take you with the Nanopresso portable espresso maker. Made for discerning coffee drinkers on the go, this compact and durable yet powerful machine ensures a flavour-packed shot every time. We love that it comes with a convenient carrying case. wacaco.com
9. Skin-soothing sunscreen
Ensuring you protect yourself from the sun is a no-brainer anywhere you are. This mineral-based sunscreen by Ursa Major does double duty by providing full-spectrum protection from damaging UVA & UVB rays, blue light and environmental pollution, while also utilizing active ingredients like squalane and lingonberry stem cells to help boost skin’s moisture retention, firmness and elasticity. thedetoxmarket.com
11. High-quality camera
For some people, snapping pics with a phone is just fine, where others prefer to up the ante with a higher quality device, especially when surrounded by stunning scenery. The new Fujifilm X-T50 mirrorless digital camera is a great option for those who want more control over their photos. The durable camera is also lightweight and ideal for on-the-go creatives and we love the classic design. fujifilm-x.com
A lightweight jacket that can be dressed up or down is ideal for laid-back exploring, whether in your own city or halfway around the world. This stylish cropped bomber jacket by Loewe fits the bill and can easily be paired with everything from jeans and joggers to sundresses. The jacket features dropped shoulders and ribbed knit collar, cuffs and hem. loewe.com
8. Stylish sun hat
Protect yourself from the sun in style with the Tilly LTM2, something that’s easy to do thanks to the hat’s wider brim and the fact that it’s crafted from recycled nylon rated UPF 50+ for even more protection. The LTM2 is also water-repellent and features cooling mesh ventilation for added comfort. ca.tilley.com
10. Sustainable skincare essentials
Keep your complexion glowing and healthy no matter where you are with Tata’s Daily Essentials Set by beloved skincare brand Tata Harper. The set includes a complete, travel-friendly seven-step routine of best selling products designed to work together for optimal results. The 100 per cent
Ask the Expert:Honeymoons
Travel
advisor Maria Maestri of TTI Travel shares her expert tips and insight for planning an unforgettable honeymoon in Italy
Italy: Made for Honeymoons Honeymoons often call to mind beachcentric or tropical locales, but there is a good case to be made for celebrating your nuptials in Italy, a country all about romance and perfect for scenic strolls and intimate moments set against dramatic backdrops no couple will forget. From north to south, Italy offers charming cities, quaint villages, picturesque countryside and cozy coastal towns to explore together. It’s also rich in history and culture–from the Colosseum and Leaning Tower of Pisa, to Vatican City and countless museums and galleries. The cuisine here is also ideal for romance, offering gourmet dinners al fresco, leisurely wine and olive oil tastings and off-the-radar culinary gems.
Maria’s top picks to put on your honeymoon radar
The Amalfi Coast is perennially popular for a reason, thanks to dramatic cliffs, beautiful villages and stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea. As such it’s the
top choice for honeymooners seeking romance and relaxation. Florence/Tuscany is another popular region–historical towns like Siena and San Gimignano, rolling hills, vineyards and olive groves are all big draws. Venice provides a unique and enchanting experience known for its iconic canals, charming bridges and timeless architecture, while relaxed Lake Como exudes romance and tranquility and happens to be surrounded by majestic mountains and elegant villas.
Rome is another starting point for an amazing honeymoon; the Eternal City offers history and culture alongside great food and romantic settings. Portofino, nestled along the Italian Riviera, comes with rugged cliffs, lush greenery and colourful buildings. There are some lovely hiking trails in the area, and Portofino is known for its upscale boutiques and restaurants. From here, you can also take a boat tour along the coast to visit nearby attractions like the cliffside towns of Cinque Terre.
Ultra-romantic accommodations
There are quite a few hotels that cater to honeymooners in Italy, or that exude a romantic vibe. First, Belmond Hotel Caruso is an 11th-century hotel in the town of Ravello offering history and romance all rolled into one. Don’t miss a dip in the gorgeous infinity pool. In Venice, situated on Giudecca Island, the Belmond Hotel Cipriani offers breathtaking views of the city’s historic skyline and a secluded location perfect for a peaceful retreat. The property also boasts Michelin-starred Oro restaurant and the romantic Cip’s Club where you can dine al fresco by the waterfront.
In Rome, Hotel Hassler Roma, located at the top of the Spanish Steps, is an historic hotel with sumptuous rooms and suites. Guests can enjoy gourmet dining at Michelin-starred Imàgo and beautiful views of the city from the restaurant’s rooftop terrace. On the shores of Lake Como, Villa D’Este was transformed from a private residence into a luxury hotel in the late 19th century and continues to exude elevated romance thanks to a Baroque setting, gorgeous grounds and rooms you won’t want to leave. The hotel is also home to several restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Veranda. In Portofino, Belmond Splendido is a legendary luxury hotel nestled on a hillside, including a saltwater swimming pool overlooking the sea, decadent rooms and a wellness spa offering a variety of treatments and massages. The property is also home to several acclaimed restaurants including the Michelin-starred La Terraza.
One-of-a-kind, honeymoon-worthy experiences
Depending on when you’re travelling and where your interests lie, there are likely more than a few unforgettable experience to be found. It could be a hot air balloon ride above the Tuscan countryside complete with views of vineyards,
olive groves and historic towns; a private boat tour of the Amalfi coast, stopping to explore charming coastal villages, swim in secluded coves and dine on fresh seafood; or a dinner in Florence on a rooftop terrace overlooking the historic skyline as the sun sets over the city.
Other excellent options include private cooking classes with a local chef, a sunset Vespa tour in Rome through the city’s historic streets and iconic
landmarks, or in Venice, a private island-hopping tour to Murano (known for glassblowing) and Burano (known for lace-making). In Portofino, enjoy a private sunset cruise along the coast while sipping champagne–what could be better.
Travelling to Italy in the off-season
While there are some factors to consider when planning an off-season visit to Italy, such as slightly more unpredictable weather and reduced hours when it comes to attractions and restaurants, there are also several key advantages.
There are fewer crowds at popular museums, galleries, landmarks and other must-see attractions.
You can enjoy more of an authentic experience of local life when there are fewer visitors.
It may be easier to get reservations at popular and/or Michelin-starred restaurants (just be sure to check off-season hours in advance).
Depending on the timing, you may have the chance to experience some unique events that don’t happen during peak season, such as Italy’s vibrant December festivals.
Stay & Play
Fairmont Mayakoba
A summer getaway to this renowned resort in Mexico is the ideal escape for the whole family
Fairmont Mayakoba is perennially popular for a reason–the sprawling Riviera Maya resort has always offered something for everyone, from couples and friend groups to foodies and outdoor enthusiasts. But this summer, the 45-acre, awardwinning luxury community is taking things a step further with Stay & Play at Fairmont Mayakoba, a program that brings summer fun to kids and kids at heart.
The Perfect Place to Stay and Play
If there was anywhere made for a summer of unforgettable fun, it’s Fairmont Mayakoba. Set on an expansive white sand beach surrounded by lush mangroves, tropical jungle and freshwater canals, the AAA Five Diamond-rated property provides the perfect blend of nature, fun and luxury. With numerous restaurants and bars, 10 pools (including the 10,000 square foot Las Olas pool, complete with swim-up bar), gym, spa, and beautiful rooms and suites, Fairmont Mayakoba offers an ideal backdrop for making lifelong summer memories.
Summer Fun for Everyone
No matter the age of a Fairmont Mayakoba guest this summer, one thing is for certain–there is a lot to see and do catering to numerous interests. Nature and outdoor enthusiasts should get to know the property and its surroundings by setting off on foot or by bike to explore nature trails. Bikes are available at no charge for guests to use. As you walk or ride, you’ll notice the diverse range of flora and fauna that flourishes in the area.
If you prefer your adventure in the water, choose from kayaking, paddleboarding, boogie boarding, jet skiing and much more. There are also several environmental protection programs in place here, including the Coral Reef Restoration Project, which guests can directly participate in on a memorable snorkeling trip amidst the Mesoamerican Reef–the second-largest reef in the world. You can also visit Cenote El Burrodromo, a natural cave filled with crystal clear water. Cenotes are found throughout the Riviera Maya and are a significant part of Mayan culture.
Kid-Focused Fun
Kid-friendly activities have always been found in abundance here but the summer Stay & Play program takes that to another level.. Happening in collaboration with toy brands such as Spin Master, SwimWays, Create A Castle and ZipString (among others), as well as Chris Byrne (known as the “Toy Guy” and an expert in the industry), kids staying at Fairmont Mayakoba this summer will be the first to try out a selection of unique toys that have yet to be released to market. In addition to all the toys on offer, the Stay & Play program also promises a few more fun-forward things to do, including an inflatable waterpark, Friday foam parties and numerous pool activities.
Grown-Up Getaway Options
The younger set aren’t the only ones who benefit from the varied activities and experiences offered at Fairmont Mayakoba and its extensive complex. Some other summer options not to miss throughout the week include the following:
• Tequila and mezcal tastings
• Make your own cocktail experiences
• Reiki and Tarot readings
• Sunrise paddle boarding
• Guided catamaran tours
• Water polo
• Flag football
During a recent trip to Jamaica for the Caribbean Hotel Travel Association Marketplace, I had the opportunity to participate in Responsible Tourism Day where delegates were assigned to either beach clean-up or assisting with a painting project at SOS Children’s Village in Barrett Town, St. James. My assignment was the latter and it had a profound effect on me. Being an adopted child myself, I am forever grateful for my adoptive parents and the life they provided for me. Many are not so lucky.
A heartfelt experience
Beyond Jamaica’s beautiful beaches and nestled amidst the picturesque countryside, lies a place often missed by tourists. SOS Children’s Villages ensures orphaned and abandoned children have a nurturing home by providing an enclosed community where in each house, an average of eight boys and girls reside (without separating biological siblings) accompanied by a caregiver.
While my time here was brief and my work with a paintbrush had a minimal impact on the great work being done to spruce up the homes that accommodate these children, learning about the set-up of the village was enlightening and the most rewarding part was interacting with the children. Their laughter and smiles were so warm and welcoming and their curiosity and eagerness to help us paint so genuine. My time spent with the kids underscored
Giving Back in Jamaica
A Volunteer opportunity with SOS Children’s Village gave me even more reasons to love this lush Caribbean island
BY TAMMY CECCO
the importance of the work being done at SOS. This experience was a powerful reminder of the impact of collective efforts in creating a brighter future for these deserving young lives.
About SOS Villages Jamaica
All three SOS Children’s Villages in Jamaica (Stony Hill, St. Andrew and Barrett Town) are affiliated with SOS Children’s Villages International, the world’s largest organization focused on ensuring that youth without parental care receive everything they need to become their strongest selves. Each household where the children reside is led by a guardian who tends to their emotional and physical needs on an individual level, supported by a qualified and passionate team of childcare experts. This domestic structure is meant to foster family-like bonds among the children as well as with the caregiver.
How You Can Help
If you want to help the organization with their mission, you can sponsor a child. For a small monthly fee, you’ll receive a profile of your sponsored child and get regular updates on their development and progress. Contributions go towards covering the living costs of the children and young people in the programs and helps to guarantee they get the quality medical care and education they need to thrive.
I have long loved Jamaica for its warm welcome, amazing food and beautiful beaches, but being able to give even a small amount of my time to a great cause in the country has enticed me to look into how I can make a more significant contribution in the near future.
Joined by Jamaica’s Tourism Minister Edmund Bartlett in our Responsible Tourism Day Efforts
After my visit to SOS Children’s Village, I explored Jamaica’s south coast on a day trip and what I found were charming treasures beyond the bustling tourist spots I’ve visited in the past. The region’s hidden gems revealed themselves in the warmth of the locals, the rich cultural heritage and the breathtaking landscapes.
Here are some highlights to include in your next Jamaica itinerary–especially if you’re looking to get a little off the beaten path:
A funky place to stay–or spend the day
Jakes Treasure Beach is more than a boutique resort; it’s the heartbeat of the Treasure Beach community. Known for its rustic charm and vibrant atmosphere, Jakes actively supports local initiatives, from education and healthcare to sustainable tourism. Their commitment to community development is evident through partnerships with local artisans, farmers and schools, fostering a spirit of collaboration and growth. Visitors not only enjoy a serene escape, but also contribute to the thriving, resilient community of Treasure Beach. The property is rooted in family history, founded by Sally Henzell, wife of filmmaker Perry Henzell. Their son, Jason Henzell continues the legacy with a family-run haven that reflects a passion for authentic Jamaican culture and sustainable tourism. Jakes offers a wide range of accommodations, from hotel rooms and bungalows, to cottages and villas. Jakeshotel.com
Floyd’s Pelican Bar
A perfect example of making something out of nothing, Floyd’s Pelican Bar was born out of owner Floyd Forbes’ dream of having a place to go every day to clean his fish and
Treasures on Jamaica’s South Coast
BY TAMMY CECCO
share with his fishing community. Built on a sand bar, this unforgettable gem is located one mile off the coast in the turquoise waters of Parottee Bay. It may not look like much–essentially a hut made of scrap wood, but it is definitely one of the most unique bars I have ever been to. You will be joined by other fishermen, locals playing dominos and other tourists who have been blessed to discover this well-kept secret. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a chance to chat with Floyd himself, a humble man with a unique philosophy on life. I certainly learned a couple of things. This is one of the best places on the island to have a Red Stripe and enjoy the sunset.
Every “ting Irie” when you find spots like these
Pelican Bar-only accessible by boat
Floyd, Pelican Bar owner
In Brussels, all roads seem to lead to chocolate. That’s a good thing because you’ll have ample opportunities to discover the best of Belgian chocolate with a DIY tour.
During a recent visit I nibbled my way through the city. Going from shop to shop, sweet aromas wafted over me as I opened doors and unwrapped chocolates, displayed like precious jewels in showcases. As I roamed, I learned what defines good chocolate. It’s creamy, rich and melts quickly in your mouth, thanks to the high percentage of cocoa butter. And as you bite into it, there’s a sharp snap—one of the hallmarks of highquality chocolate.
Start your tour at the Grand Place, a beautiful UNESCO-listed public square lined with ornate, 17th-century buildings, restaurants and chocolate shops. Swing by the super cute Mary Chocolatier Brussels, named after Mary Delluc, one of the first female chocolate makers. She opened her first shop in 1919 and later
Sweet Retreat
From curry truffles and pralines with history to chewy macarons, learn more about Belgium’s chocolate-making prowess with a DIY chocolate tour of Brussels
By Michele Sponagle
became an official chocolate supplier to the Belgian royal family. I picked up pieces of Pompadour (a velvety hazelnut praline) and My Lady (dark chocolate ganache with 68 per cent cocoa content).
A few doors down, Neuhaus Chocolates is a must. Founder, Swiss pharmacist Jean Neuhaus, who moved to Brussels in 1857, disguised the bitter taste of pills by covering them in rich chocolate. He eventually nixed the medicine and created chocolate shells with tasty fillings, introducing the first pralines. Sample one of Neuhaus’s early creations—Louise (1910), a praline made from milk chocolate from Indonesia, or Suzanne (1942), featuring intensely dark ganache with fresh raspberries. To go with it, grab a cup of luxurious hot chocolate.
PHOTO CREDITS: Top photo by Milo-Profi; middle by Michele Sponagle; bottom left by Jean-Paul Remy; bottom right by Brian Douglas
Mary Chocolatier
Grand Place
Mary Chocolatier
Neuhaus Chocolates, Cornet Dore filled with gianduja hazelnut chocolate
Nearby on Rue de Beurre (Butter Street), Elisabeth Chocolatier has a bit of everything, from luscious truffles (like coconut with caramel) to chocolate pearls filled with aged Belgian rum. The independent shop sources confections from local artisans, including Florentines made with almond paste, topped with crunchy almond slivers and dipped in milk chocolate. I tear through three before I get back to my hotel. Next time, I’ll going straight for the giant meringues.
Also close to Grand Place, Leonidas Chocolate has a century of experience behind it. Today, it makes more than 100 varieties of chocolates. Pretty chocolates— white, milk, dark and ruby (slightly tart tasting), the newest innovation to come along in chocolate, sit in neat rows, looking enticing. English descriptions for each help narrow the choices. I get a caffeine buzz from the white chocolate buttercream infused with strong coffee notes and topped with a coffee bean. Don’t leave without a nutty, creamy gianduja bar,
blended with 30 per cent hazelnut paste.
Then head to Royal SaintHubert Galleries to take a break with warm chocolatecovered waffles crowned with real whipped cream at Maison Dandoy, which has served tasty confections since 1829.
Walk to Laurent Gerbaud, an award-winning artisan who represents the next generation of Belgian chocolate. At his modern shop, discover creations featuring exotic flavours and ingredients, like grilled buckwheat, curry and black olive. Sign up for a 90-minute workshop (held each Saturday), where you’ll learn about cocoa varieties, taste them and create your own chocolates to take home.
Before you leave Brussels, pick up elegantly boxed, bean-to-bar chocolate from Belgian Pierre Marcolini, a champion pastry chef. His sleek, modern shop has elegant desserts, as well as macarons. Buy the chocolate ones, crafted with three types of
cocoa beans and vanilla. Beautifully crisp on the outside, they have a chewy and creamy centre just bursting with the bold roasted chocolate notes that makes Belgian chocolate worth the trip.
PHOTO CREDITS: Top left photo by Brian Douglas; top right and middle left photos courtesy of Visit Brussels; middle right photo by Maison Dandoy; bottom left photo by Michele Sponagle; bottom right photo by Milo-Profi
Elisabeth Chocolatier, Meringues and chocolates
Laurent Gerbaud Chocolatier
Marcolini
Chocolate covered waffles
Leonidas Chocolate store
Portugal’s Wine Industry is Aging Well
BY CHRIS RYALL
Portugal’s wine history dates back thousands of years, beginning with the ancient Tartessians planting vines in southern Portugal around 2000 BC. Phoenicians, Celts and Romans followed, bringing new winemaking techniques to the region, as well as introducing new grape varieties.
Britain was one of the early recipients of Portugal’s fruits of the vine thanks to the 1703 Methuen Treaty between Britan and Portugal. Tariffs were lowered, making Portuguese wines much cheaper to buy than those from France. This development led to a new phase of expansion, and while the industry has gone through several ups and downs, Portuguese wines remain well worth sipping.
Port: Portugal’s Crown Jewel
Port of course is what launched Portugal’s wine industry onto the world stage. This sweet, fortified wine can only be called Port if made in Portugal’s Douro Valley. A blend of Portuguese grape varieties such as Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional and others are used to craft it.
The stunning Douro Valley is where the wine-making magic happens. The area was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001. Taking a day or multi-day cruise along the river is a must. Here you’ll pass many steep, terraced vineyards, and perched high up on the hills are luxurious wine estates ready to welcome you. If you’re lucky you can join the workers stomping grapes. Don’t wear white!
For centuries the port produced in the Douro Valley travelled in special boats called rabelos down the river to Porto and the Vila Nova de Gaia to age in port lodges and then get shipped to customers around the world. Today road transport is used instead of rabelos but tourists can still catch a ride on the Porto or Gaia side of the Douro River to get a “taste” of the journey.
Porto and the Douro River
Working the vineyards at Quinta dos Vales
One of many Port wine shops in Gaia
WOW - World of Wine in Gaia
Wine to Suit Every Palate
There’s more to Portugal’s wine industry than just port from the Douro Valley–that region is just one of 14 designated wine regions in the country. Portugal boasts more than 250 grape varieties, along with several imported varieties. This gives winemakers great latitude to produce many distinctive flavours. Soil characteristics, varying amounts of rain and sunshine, and geographic diversity add to the complexity of the wines that can be produced here.
Touriga Nacional is considered by many to be Portugal’s top red grape variety. It’s known for its complex flavours and can be floral and fruity. Baga, Touriga Franca and Trincadeira also rank high in taste amongst red grape varieties. For white wine lovers, Alvarinho, Arinto and Encruzado are popular choices.
Vinhos Verde is a popular wine region in northwest Portugal. Young and fresh wines are a staple here. For those looking for traditional winemaking practices and old castles and villages, head to the Alentejo wine region in southern Portugal.
Portugal’s Algarve coast is one of my favourite regions. Cliffside walks, towns dating back to Roman times like Silve, an abundance of water and land activities as well as luxury resorts and historic quintas (estates) make it an ideal region to spend a few days.
More than Just Taste
If you love art and wine, why not combine the two? That’s what Quinta dos Vales Wine Estate owner Karl Heinz Stock did with a decidedly whimsical touch. Here you’ll find well over a hundred sculptures spread among several gardens, many of which were created by Stock himself.
I also had a chance to visit a few other wineries including ARVAD, a stylish new winery near the ancient town of Silve, situated along the banks of the Arade River. Soon you’ll be able to arrive at this winery by boat.
Food is the perfect complement to wine and there were many palate-pleasing meals to be found in Portugal. Restaurante Veneza, located in Albufeira (Algarve region) served the most memorable and fun meal. If you like Portuguese wine and cuisine served with a family touch, this is the place to visit. The owner brought out one bottle (we did not drink it) worth $30,000. I was also interested in how much the 1962 (my birth year) port cost that was displayed. Now costing $295 Euros, its value increased from $200 when I last visited in 2015.
Portugal’s value as a wine tourism destination is increasing as well. It has all the ideal ingredients–sunshine, spectacular and diverse scenery, genuine hospitality, rich history and culture and a thriving wine industry. Bottle up these attributes, put a cork in it and share it with the world–something easy to do here since Portugal produces more than 50 per cent of the world’s cork. Portugal–you are aging well.
Chris’ favourite
Arvad Winery Lookout
Quinta dos Vales Winery
Quinta do Noval port house
View from Tivioli Carvoeiro Algarve Resort
All photos by Chris Ryall, except bottom photo, courtesy of Wines of Portugal
YOUR RETREAT IN ROME
A Baroque oasis in the heart of Rome in the lively Trastevere district. Designed and built by Francesco Borromini, Donna Camilla Savelli is housed inside a 17th-century convent. The hotel is also well equipped to organize meetings, events and weddings.
Trastevere is one of the oldest and most characteristic districts of the Eternal City, perfectly matching the hospitality of Donna Camilla Savelli. Filled with bars and historic trattorias, it is a part of Roman folklore over the centuries, that retains its original character to this day. A neighbourhood that embodies the spirit of the past, a village full of ancient streets, splendid churches, and hidden squares.
CULINARY DELIGHTS
In a seductive blend of tradition and innovation, the Il Ferro e il Fuoco restaurant offers a unique culinary experience of authentic Roman flavours that have been creatively revisited. The Renaissance Menu, created by Chef Emidio Ferro, guides the palate along a tempting path where guests are transported back in time dish after dish.
WELCOMING COMFORTS AWAIT
At Donna Camilla Savelli, each of the 99 rooms has its own soul and ensures every stay is one of authentic relaxation. The Executive Rooms and Suites offer a glance into the historic magic of days long past thanks to the furniture and finishes that have remained intact.
Sacro Bosco: Italy’s Mysterious Garden of Giants
Immerse yourself in an ancient world filled with fantastical sculptures that invoke a sense of wonder and curiosity
Words & photos by
Jane Canapini
It was while researching day trips from Rome that I first came across a photo of a giant ogre’s face surrounded by forest greenery, with a gaping mouth big enough to swallow a dozen people. Carved above it was the inscription “Ogni Pensiero Vola,” meaning “Every Thought Flies.” I was immediately intrigued. But when I learned that this monster was just one of many in a onceforgotten, 500 year-old garden dedicated to a lost love, I knew I had found exactly the kind of hidden gem I had been looking for.
Aerial view Bomarzo Italy
“Sacro Bosco,” which translates to Sacred Wood, is one of Italy’s Renaissance mysteries. Located at the foot of Bomarzo, one of Lazio’s picturesque hilltop towns about an hour north of Rome, the garden was created by the town’s ruling duke, Pier Francesco ‘Vicini’ Orsini in the mid 1500’s. A retired military leader and patron of the arts, Orsini built the garden to help him cope with the death of his beloved wife, Giulia Farnese. Yet this garden was nothing like the formal 16th century Italianate layouts that typically featured ornamental fountains, symmetrical hedges and ordered plantings.
Mythology, Monsters and More
Orsini’s garden is almost chaotic, and its seven acres are home to all manner of surreal structures and mythological creatures, scattered seemingly randomly throughout the wooded grounds. Pathways meander through the park in multiple directions, in some places leading visitors past sphinxes and sirens with cryptic messages carved into their plinths. Another route descends into a forested grove where a huge sea creature is poised to swallow a giant tortoise with a winged Nike on its back. Nearby, a rearing Pegasus sits atop a long-abandoned fountain while at the foot of a staircase, 18-foot tall mythological titans wrestle in a stone tower of tangled limbs.
Deeper in the garden, more fantastical creatures appear against a backdrop of the volcanic rock from which they are carved: a dragon attacks a lion cowering at its feet; nymphs, satyrs and ancient gods recline against stone walls, and a monstrous she-viper stretches out two snake-like legs under the trees.
But nothing is quite as mesmerizing as the grotesque, open-mouthed face of Orcus, the ancient Etruscan god of the underworld. With its gaping maw mouthing a silent scream, curious visitors can’t help but be lured inside this giant portal to explore the darkness within. No wonder this place is also known as the Park of the Monsters.
Orcus Monster Sacro Bosco
Bomarzo Sacro Bosco
A Surreal Gem Abandoned for Centuries
It’s perhaps no surprise that with all these pagan symbols, Orsini’s gardens may have been interpreted not just as non-traditional but as satanic, especially by the Vatican. It may also be the reason why Sacro Bosco was neglected after Orsini’s death, and why the garden remained largely unknown for centuries afterwards.
It wasn’t until the 1940s that twentieth-century visitors learned about Sacro Bosco’s existence, following a well-publicized visit by Salvador Dali in 1938. A newsreel showing the surrealist artist exploring the garden and posing with these overgrown, moss-covered monsters led to more public interest in the longabandoned site. Curiosity seekers wanted to know more about these mysterious woods, prompting real estate agent Giovanni Bettini to purchase the property and develop it as a tourist attraction. From the 1950s to the 1970s, Bettini and his wife, Tina Severini completed an extensive restoration of the grounds and today both owners still have a place in the garden, entombed in the Temple of Eternity, the original memorial to Giulia Farnese.
A Provocative Puzzle or Art for Art’s Sake?
As I followed the map given to me at the entrance, enchanted by the creativity and inspiration that resulted in such a curious collection of creatures, I couldn’t help but wonder why Orsini chose these particular characters for his garden, and if there was some method to his madness. I’m not alone. Many speculate that the disturbing nature of some of these sculptures reflect Orsini’s disillusionment with his military experiences. Orsini was also a well-educated aristocrat and his knowledge of history, mythology and Dante’s Inferno clearly inspired some of the sculptures. Yet with no written records left by Orsini, no one can definitively answer what he wanted to express with his garden, or even which artist or artists were behind its design and all its sculptures. There are some indications that Michelangelo may even have been involved (yes, that Michelangelo) but no one can say for certain.
All of this only adds to the mysterious appeal of Sacro Bosco, and allows each visitor to interpret the garden the way they see fit, even if that means just enjoying it as the creative, mesmerizing place that it is.
Before long I found myself ignoring the map and its suggested itinerary and just letting myself roam, discovering one incredible surprise after another, occasionally retracing my steps to revisit favourite sculptures. With no pressure to solve the mystery of Sacro Bosco, I allowed myself to fall under its spell and simply immerse myself in its beauty.
Neptune sculpture Sacro Bosco
Bomarzo Sacro Bosco
VISITING SACRO BOSCO AND BOMARZO
Sacro Bosco sits at the foot of Bomarzo, a tiny medieval village about 90 kilometres north of Rome in the province of Viterbo. Like many of these charming Italian hilltop towns that are constructed on volcanic rock outcroppings, Bomarzo is home to steeply sloped streets, characteristic alleyways and piazzas and the 16th century palazzo that was Duke Orsini’s home (which now serves as the municipal offices and is open to visitors). The best way to visit Bomarzo is by car: there is a small public parking lot right below the historic centre and for those who prefer not to walk up, there is an elevator available.
MORE TO DO IN BOMARZO
Apart from strolling its scenic streets or visiting the enigmatic Sacro Bosco garden, Bomarzo is known for its annual historic bareback horse race (the Palio of Saint Anselmo) that happens every April 23-25. Many of the same riders who participate in the esteemed Siena Palio compete here, and the town celebrates with parades and historical re-enactments in medieval costume. During this festival the town also sells the Bomarzo cookie, a local specialty resembling a donut that is made from a closely-guarded recipe handed down from mother to daughter through generations.
View of Bomarzo for gardens of Sacro Bosco
Streets of Bomarzo Italy
Display of 16th century costumes Palazzo Orsini Bomarzo
A Two-in-One Vacation Experience Perfect for a Mother-Son Getaway
Secrets Riviera Cancun and Breathless Riviera Cancun Resort & Spa are dual properties with something for everyone
BY GURDEEP AHLUWALIA
ONE PROPERTY, TWO DISTINCT EXPERIENCES
A short 15-minute drive from the Cancun airport, the sibling properties of Secrets Riviera Cancun and Breathless Riviera Cancun Resort & Spa possess a uniquely dual setup. Breathless has a distinctly more up-tempo atmosphere, while Secrets is decidedly more low-key–with each providing their own elevated experience. This setup was perfect for the mother-son getaway I had planned, with the Breathless side providing some of the excitement I crave on vacation, while my mom could enjoy a quieter pace at Secrets.
The best part? If you stay at Secrets (like we did), you have seamless access to both properties and all subsequent amenities (though the same doesn’t apply to Breathless guests).
DIVERSE CULINARY OFFERINGS
We stayed for one week, and every one of those nights was needed to completely appreciate the culinary offerings of Secrets and Breathless. It was hard not to circle back to personal favourites
like Silk City (the pan-Asian restaurant offering nightly Teppanyaki seatings), or Coquette (the elevated French dining experience). While most of the restaurants were located on the Breathless side, one of my favourite perks of staying at Secrets was access to their signature restaurant, Rosewater. I tended to start my day there for breakfast and then order snacks while sitting poolside; the menu had the healthy bowls and creative egg options I’m drawn to in the morning.
In the evenings I worked my way through the cache of nine culinary options. The Mexican restaurant Picante did not disappoint, with fresh guacamole made tableside, which I later learn is a hallmark of any quality Mexican dining establishment. Spoon is the international buffet with enough on offer to cater to any craving. The other restaurants include the Italian-inspired Spumante, steakhouse The Strip Grill, as well
as Bites (small plates and tapas) and Barefoot Grill (poolside burgers and snacks)–all of which are well worth checking out. Don’t miss The Nook Café, a cozy boutique coffee shop neatly tucked away at Breathless offering a full assortment of teas, coffees and espresso-based beverages plus bakery selections. My nightly routine quickly became lingering over a mint tea or cappuccino here after dinner.
OFF-SITE EXCURSIONS
The dual properties are beautiful, and so is their location, right between the Caribbean Sea and the Bahia Petempich lagoon–so it’s worth doing some exploring if you can tear yourself away from the pool. Talk to your concierge and book a quaint day trip to the Puerto Morelos harbour. A 20-minute drive takes you to the charming seaport town that still holds the charm of when it was a fishing village. Now home to cute shops, cafés, private residences and friendly locals, the area also has beautiful white sand beaches perfect for a leisurely stroll. You can see the whole area in just a couple of hours, grab a quick bite at a vegan cafe and pick up a local souvenir.
Looking for something a little more involved? You can also arrange day trips through the Secrets or Breathless concierge to Playa Del Carmen (a 45 minute drive), Tulum (90 minutes) and a number of other worthwhile spots.
ENTICING ACTIVITIES & EVENTS
I was immediately impressed by the high-quality of the event staff and programming lineup–so I suggest taking advantage during your stay. I started most days with an aqua aerobics class in the Secrets pool, followed by beach cornhole and pickle ball, but I also loved getting out on the water in a group with kayaks and stand-up paddle boards. If you’re feeling more lowkey, there’s poolside bingo, yoga sessions, tequila tastings and–maybe the most fun daytime activity of the entire week–a guacamole making class. This was easily the best guacamole I’ve ever made (under the careful tutelage of the Rosewater chef, of course) and I’m now inspired to pick up my own mortar and pestle so I can attempt to recreate it at home.
Sometimes a resort’s nightly entertainment can be lacking, but that is decidedly not the case here. The Queen tribute act was excellent and played to a packed theatre. I came in 10 minutes before the show began
and had to stand at the back, which hardly bothered me given the quality of the show and the energy in the room. The Mexican themed night and other exciting evening shows will all put you in a great mood, whether you’re on a romantic getaway, travelling with friends, or like me, taking your mom on a well deserved vacation.
HYDROTHERAPY FOR THE WIN
Do yourself a favour and book the Hydrotherapy circuit at Relax Spa by Pevonia. You start with 10 minutes in the infrared sauna, before moving to a self-inflicted bucket of less-thanlukewarm water to cool down. Then it’s off to bask in the steam room for another 10-15 minutes, before–my favourite part–a cold plunge. Whatever anxiety you might feel about this chilling aspect of the circuit is quickly erased by invigorated triumph when you come out. After that, it’s into a warm pool for a circuit of powerful massage jets and waterfalls that stimulate your muscles. As the experience winds down, you lounge in an expansive outdoor hot tub before finishing off in bathrobes, relaxing on deck chairs and sipping herbal tea. It was so nice I did it twice during my stay.
Having the option of experiencing two excellent resorts in one proved to be the ideal scenario for a memorable mother-son vacation.
FORGET EVERYTHING YOU KNOW (OR THINK YOU KNOW) ABOUT DETROIT—IT’S SO MUCH MORE THAN YOU EVER THOUGHT IT COULD BE BY
JESSICA PADYKULA
Afew years ago three of my friends took a four-day road trip to Detroit and what they reported back sounded like everything I wanted from a city: burgeoning breweries, eclectic neighbourhoods with personalities all their own, walkable streets and an exciting food scene just hinting at its full potential. So when I had the opportunity to go I didn’t think twice about hopping on a plane to discover Detroit for myself.
What I found was a vibrant city filled with friendly people, excellent food, creative craft cocktails and street art so electric I still haven’t stopped thinking about it. This is not the Detroit many people might have
A City on the Rise
in mind when they think about the city— this is an entirely new canvas—one with endless potential to draw on.
An Historic—and Luxurious Stay
For some people, a hotel is just a place to drop their bags and get some sleep in between sightseeing, while for others, where they stay has more impact on their overall experience. I am of the latter and as soon as I walked into my suite at the David Whitney, Autograph Collection, I never wanted to leave. Crisp and clean without being cold, I felt instantly at home here.
Entering the building, constructed in 1915
and one of only three surviving buildings in Detroit designed by architectural firm Daniel H. Burnham & Co., you’re greeted with a gorgeous marble atrium featuring grand arches, balconies and a stunning beveled glass ceiling. This building—in addition to being a phenomenal hotel—is also known as one of the most important structures in the city.
Art, Everywhere
One of the first things you’re likely to notice about Detroit is that art is everywhere; on every surface, melding with the surroundings in a way that can only be described as creatively cohesive and utterly dynamic. It’s apparent almost at once why this is known as one of the best cities in the United States to explore street art. I had the pleasure of touring the Eastern Market Murals with the exceptionally warm and knowledgeable guide, Jason Hall. Murals in this area are dense in number and draw your eye in every direction. Artistic styles are varied and colours pop off walls, proving these artists have added so much depth to Detroit’s already unique landscape.
Heading indoors, the Detroit Institute of Arts was recently named the number one museum in the United States and turned out to be one of the highlights of my visit. Here you’ll find over 65,000 artworks, from the earliest civilizations to the present,
David Whitney, Autograph Collection
Choosing something to bring back with you—something that represents where you spent time (be it two days or two months) can be tough. But Rebel Nell turned out to be a fulfilling way to engage with Detroit in a way I’ll never forget.
Co-founded by Amy Peterson and Diana Roginson, Rebel Nell repurposes fallen graffiti into unique jewellry. But more importantly, the enterprise provides skills and professional training to women in the shelter system—and to date has helped nearly 50 women get back on their feet. It’s worth stopping by just to shop for beautiful pieces, but you can also do a short jewellery-making experience wherein you choose the piece of fallen street art that appeals to you most, cut the piece you want, and have it made into a one-of-a-kind piece of wearable art. One-of-a-Kind
Mural by Hebru Brantley
Photo courtesy of Eastern Market Partnership
Rebel Nell Jewellery
including the world-famous Mexican artist Diego Rivera’s al fresco–an entire gallery of murals dedicated to the themes of work, hardship, inequality, industry, science, nature and so much more, which Rivera considered to be his most successful work.
Food That Appeals to Every Palate As a pizza fan, one of the things I was most excited about was trying authentic Detroit-style pie and Buddy’s Pizza did not disappoint. This place has been serving up decadent, saucy slices in square pans with crunchy, cheesy corners since 1946. They also make great salads.
James Beard-honoured Alpino was another standout—the fondue here is silky, savoury and rich—served with crisp green apple, perfectly roasted new potatoes and fresh bread. This spot is also noteworthy for its rösti potato, a decadent Swiss potato pancake topped with dollops of crème fraiche, smoked salmon and peppery mustard greens.
French bistro Le Suprême looks like it was plucked straight from the streets of Paris, both inside and out. A glass of crisp white wine alongside the impressive artisanal French cheeseboard took me right back to the City of Lights.
Named one of the best new restaurants by the New York Times, Esquire magazine and more, Baobab Fare is bright and welcoming. Husband and wife owners Hamissi Mamba and Nadia Nijimbere serve traditional dishes from Burundi and were named semi-finalists in the James Beard Awards Best Chef Great Lakes category.
Robust Bar Culture
My first stop for a drink in Detroit was Kamper’s, a stylish rooftop bar and lounge on the 14th floor of the historic Book Tower. The menu draws on Spanish influences and the service is excellent.
The door might be locked (knock or call to get in), but Bad Luck Bar is extremely welcoming despite its secretive entrance protocol. Cocktails are inventive while still being accessible and the vibe is ultra-laid back with servers who know cocktails inside and out. It’s also worth checking out 50-seat Willow, another speakeasy-style bar, for excellent handcrafted cocktails.
My last night was spent at Cliff Bell’s, a jazz venue with an art-deco interior that felt like stepping back in time. I had the pleasure of hearing Straight Ahead, a Grammy-nominated all-female jazz ensemble who blew everyone away with their inventive sound and infectious enthusiasm. There is an extensive cocktail menu here, as well as great food.
And for a nightcap, don’t sleep on the Library Bar at the David Whitney. I indulged in a couple of drinks here, soothed by the in-house piano player and roaring fireplace, surrounded by shelves packed with books.
Memorable Museums
History can be hard to process at times, but it is necessary to face it head-on, which is something you can’t help but do at the Charles H. Wright Museum of African American History, one of the world’s oldest independent AfricanAmerican museums. Founded in 1965, this comprehensive museum holds the world’s largest permanent collection of African-
American culture, with more than 35,000 artifacts. The space takes visitors on an immersive journey that is at many times heartbreaking, but the journey is well worth it and a must if you’re in the city.
Another must-see is the Motown Museum, especially if you’re a fan of music from the era, which is something I grew up on thanks to my dad’s extensive collection of ‘45s. Founded in 1985 by Esther Gordy Edwards—former Motown Records executive and sister to Motown founder, Berry Gordy—the museum is home to iconic Hitsville U.S.A., Studio A and a mindboggling array of Motown artifacts, photographs and memorabilia. Guided tours are fun and informative, and knowing you’re standing in the exact space where some of the greatest hits were recorded is nothing short of awe-inspiring.
If Detroit has yet to make its way onto your travel radar, there are more than a few reasons it should make the cut.
Hitsville, U.S.A. The Motown Museum, Motown artists on the museum’s wall of fame
Clockwise: Rivera Court at Detroit Institute of Arts, Buddy’s Pizza, Le Suprême, Kamper’s Rooftop Lounge
DISCOVER YOUR OWN
Piece of Paradise with El Cid Resorts
Explore the best of Mexico with an award-winning family of properties offering something for everyone
Mexico is a perennially popular travel destination for many reasons–from culture to history to unforgettable food–so choosing where to set down your suitcase can be a tough decision. But with eight award-winning properties across three beachfront destinations, El Cid Resorts ensures every traveller has the chance to discover their own piece of paradise.
CAPTIVATING DESTINATIONS
Depending on what type of travel experience you’re looking for–be it a family trip, celebratory event,
solo adventure, or group getaway, you have three distinct and unforgettable destinations in Mexico to choose from: Mazatlán, Riviera Maya, and Cozumel–each with its own set of charms.
MAZATLÁN: THE PEARL OF THE PACIFIC
For those seeking an ideal starting point for their El Cid Resorts adventure, Mazatlán beckons with open arms. Aptly nicknamed the “Pearl of the Pacific,” this coastal city is an unforgettable blend of beaches, ultra-fresh seafood, and a vibrant historic center. The nearly
Riviera Maya Mazatlan Cozumel
26 kilometers of golden sand were made for both relaxation and exploration, while the historic district offers a step back in time–as well as food vendors, shops, leafy plazas, and museums. Getting to Mazatlán is easy, with direct flights from several major Canadian cities.
There are four El Cid Resorts properties including the inviting El Cid Granada Hotel, complete with its own 27-hole golf course designed by Lee Trevino, as well as the charming El Cid Castilla Beach Hotel and El Cid El Moro Beach Hotel, both nestled within the energetic Golden Zone. El Cid Marina Beach Hotel boasts a private beach, a Mediterranean-style design, and a world-class marina (perfect for sportfishing, diving, and snorkelling excursions).
RIVIERA MAYA: WHERE HISTORY AND NATURE MEET
Take your pick of ancient Mayan sites, beautiful beaches, tropical forests, refreshing cenotes, and much more in the Riviera Maya where El Cid Resorts has three exceptional properties. Just a stone’s throw from the bustling tourist zone, Hotel Marina El Cid Spa & Beach Resort is home to a 22,000 square-foot pool, sprawling spa, and a private full-service marina, making it easy to book boat tours, sportfishing trips, and other water-based fun.
Connected to Hotel Marina El Cid Spa & Beach Resort are Ventus at Marina El Cid Spa & Beach Resort and Ventus Ha’ at Marina El Cid Spa & Beach Resort (don’t miss a sunset drink at this spot’s adults-only rooftop pool bar, Rüf). Snorkellers and divers will want to visit nearby Puerto Morelos National Reef Park, known for its abundant and varied marine life. Take advantage of El Cid Resorts’ Exchange Privilege program to experience the amenities and services across all three all-inclusive Riviera Maya resorts no matter which one you’re staying at.
COZUMEL: A GATEWAY TO UNDERWATER ADVENTURE
The vibrant island of Cozumel is a paradise for divers and snorkelers thanks to its prime location on the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef (the second-largest coral reef system in the world). El Cid La Ceiba Beach Hotel is a quiet boutique hideaway complete with a dedicated dive centre.
Between the high level of service, genuine warmth, wide range of activities for all ages and unique amenities worth coming back for, El Cid Resorts make any visit to Mexico a memorable one.
Rüf, rooftop pool bar at Ventus Ha’ at Marina El Cid Spa & Beach Resort
La Alhambra restaurant at El Cid Castilla Beach Hotel
El Cid Castilla Beach Hotel. Aerial view.
Ventus Ha’, Riviera Maya
EXPERIENCE EXTRAORDINARY ON Mackinac Island
Spending time in this beautiful oasis is made even better with a stay at award-winning Mission Point Resort
By Jim Bamboulis
Ojibwe for 'Big Turtle,' Mackinac Island–the Crown Jewel of the Great Lakes–takes up only five square miles on Lake Huron, between Michigan's Upper and Lower Peninsulas. Quaint and quiet, motor vehicles were banned on the island in 1898 making way for the clip-clop of horsedrawn carriages and bicycle bells still seen and heard today, creating a tranquil yet energizing ‘time-stands-still’ vibe.
Blessed with natural landmarks and glorious, panoramic lake views, it’s an outdoorsy oasis featuring over 100 kilometres of trails inside Mackinac Island State Park, and a 13 kilometre coastal trail around the island. History buffs flock to historic Fort Mackinac and meander colourful side streets sprinkled with centuries-old churches and grand Victorian homes. Foodies enjoy diverse culinary feasts with a side of Mackinac Island Fudge, a big deal in these parts with over 10,000 pounds of it made each day in season, culminating in a Fudge Fest
every August. Shop ‘till you drop in the picturesque town centre and enjoy a day in Marquette Park, one of the best places to celebrate the annual 10-day Lilac Festival, taking place every June since 1949.
While there are plenty of cottages, B&Bs and hotels on the island, proudly taking centre stage is Mission Point, a breathtaking family-owned and awardwinning 243-room resort on the sunrise side of the island that offers an escape from the ordinary. The Great Lawn is adorned with dozens of Adirondack chairs facing the bay, while over 33,000 mesmerizing, multicoloured tulip bulbs blanket its renowned, award-winning gardens.
Step inside and feel instantly at peace in Mission Point’s immaculate living room, which offers a first impression like no other. The front desk, with rocks transported by horse and wagon from the northeastern side of the island, reflects the rock walls found at Fort Mackinac, while the
wood atop the front desk is repurposed from old bleachers from the 1960s when Mission Point’s 18 acres was the Mackinac College campus. Award-winning Michigan artist Kristin Hosbein’s depictions of Mackinac Island compliment a stunning, rotunda-style main lobby featuring nine log trusses converging at a height of 51 feet, resembling a 16-sided teepee, reflecting both the natural beauty and history of the island. Relaxing and elegant, guests are encouraged to make themselves seamlessly at home, enjoying a glass of wine or reading by the fire.
While staying in is tempting, exploring and tasting what Mission Point offers is irresistible. Meet your guide in the lobby just before the crack of dawn for a guided sunrise hike to a nearby cliffside lookout. Relax by the pool and restore your soul with a signature Mission Point body treatment. New in 2024, exclusive curated experiences dubbed Mission Point Moments, give guests the chance to participate in a range of immersive
activities, including cooking and cocktail making classes, wine tastings and live concerts.
Did someone say Picnic Society? Guests are encouraged to pop by Boxwood Coffeeshop and Cafe, load up their picnic baskets with any and all goodies, spread out a blanket and leisurely enjoy the day lakeside. Meanwhile, led by executive chef John Clements, Mission Point’s Farm-to-Ferry culinary experiences offer fanatically fresh and sensationally seasonal dishes, celebrating local producers. Whether you’re having cozy comfort foods at Round Island Kitchen, Mediterraneaninspired delicacies at Bistro on the Greens, or a divine, five-course, handcrafted culinary adventure at Chianti, your taste buds will thank you. Just be sure you leave room for a refreshingly cool Frosé, a quintessential summer nightcap and resortexclusive craft cocktail made with aromatic and flavourful local Michigan wines.
Photos courtesy of Mission Point Resort, except page 2 middle left, by Jim Bamboulis, middle right by It’s Wonderful Photography
Adventure Travel Hotspots Around the World
The best places to visit if you’re craving adventure, from France and Spain to Canada, Mexico and beyond
If you crave adventure when you travel you’re not alone–the global adventure tourism market is projected to exceed $2.2 billion by 2030. So where should you base yourself for some epic adrenalinepumping activities? There are quite a few destinations to choose from, but the best of the best have been chosen.
Experts at BestCasinoSites.net evaluated factors including the number of roller coasters, casinos, rock climbing opportunities, mountain bike routes, hiking trails, and off-road trails in 61 countries to compile a global ranking out of 10 for each country.
According to the study, France is the world’s adventure capital, boasting an overall adrenaline score of 8.86/10, thanks to the country’s over 720,000 hiking trails, 227 rollercoasters, the chance to hike Europe’s highest peak and more.
Following France is Mexico with a score of 8.56/10–don’t miss bungee jumping at Los Cabos and zip-lining in the Jungles of Yucatan. Spain takes third spot with an 8.41/10, boasting rock climbing, canyoning, mountain climbing and a whopping 172 casinos.
Canada is also among the top 15 countries for adventure lovers, ranking as the 12th best country for an adrenalin fix, with 60,300 hiking trails and 5,980 mountain biking routes.
TALES OF ADVENTURE
Dive into our adventure travel collection, where the thrill of exploration takes many forms. From heart-pounding adrenaline rushes to serene journeys of discovery. From extreme adventure to gentle exploration, you will find inspiration in these captivating tales.
EXPLORING THE ADVENTUROUS SIDE OF ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA
In between sunbathing sessions, get active with some of the many exciting experiences these islands have to offer
By Jessica Padykula
The twin islands of Antigua and Barbuda might be best known for an abundance of beautiful beaches (365 to be exact–one for every day of the year), but this double dose of Caribbean paradise is also an ideal base for adventure-seekers, thanks to an array of adrenalin-boosting activities both on land and on the water.
GET OFF THE BEATEN PATH
An off-roading excursion offers an entirely new and exciting way to see Antigua and Barbuda. Salty Dogs Adventures makes this possible with island tours highlighting the postcard-perfect, surroundings from the driver’s (or passenger) seat of a two-seater automatic 4-wheel drive buggy. Depending on the trail, you might pass through both natural and man-made waterways, back road villages, open pastures and farmlands, and stop for a swim at one of Antigua’s most secluded beaches. Expect unforgettable scenery and lush landscape everywhere you turn.
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CULTURE MEETS ADVENTURE
Humble and Free Wadadli (Wadadli is the Indigenous name for Antigua), offers a unique series of eco-tours taking visitors on a journey through both Antigua, as well as the island’s Rastafari culture–bridging the two to create an unforgettable local experience. Don’t miss the Agro District Hike where you get up close and personal with Antigua’s main agricultural district. Hop from farm to farm, enjoy the Coconut Tree Canopy Garden and sample the freshest seasonal produce straight from the source.
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MAKE WAVES WITH WATER ADVENTURES
Water-based activities abound in Antigua and Barbuda, with snorkelling and diving being a great place to start for enjoying the area’s abundant sea life. If you’d rather be on the water, choose from a variety of boating excursions, including luxury yachts or wave-jumping catamarans. There’s also kite, wind and classic surfing along the north shore of Antigua. Or for something truly unique, Skylork, a scooter snorkeling operator, offers ecofriendly sea scooter tours allowing you to get close to marine life, swim with turtles and rays and explore vibrant undersea life. Their innovative iAqua scooters are known to be some of the fastest in the world.
UP YOUR PICKLEBALL GAME
Whether you’re new to the sport or a seasoned pro, Antigua and Barbuda has positioned itself as a pickleball haven. The hot-streak sport just keeps gaining popularity and there are more than a few spots to pick up your paddle including Curtain Bluff, Carlisle Bay and Jumby Bay Island Resort. Several Elite Island Resorts properties also have pickleball courts including Pineapple Beach Club (with six courts, plus the option for a game of tennis), Verandah Resort and Spa (offering three courts as well as table tennis) and St. James Club.
GETTING THERE:
TRIPLE THE FUN-TRIFLEX IT!
If you can’t decide what type of adventure to focus your energy on, consider Triflex Excursions, which combines biking, kayaking and hiking into one unique way to see Antigua and Barbuda. This experience will have you kayaking in a mangrove lagoon, going on an easy-going bike ride through the streets of the capital of St John`s and taking a hike to one of the historic forts overlooking the city. Along the way, you’ll see colourful churches, seaside towns and well-preserved naval installations.
GO BIRDING IN BARBUDA
Barbuda is home to the largest Frigate bird colony in the western hemisphere and well worth adding to your itinerary. Codrington Lagoon National Park, spanning 16.5 miles of Barbuda’s western coastline, is the best place to catch sight of these majestic birds, which travel seasonally between the Galapagos islands and Barbuda. The sprawling park is home to over 5,000 frigates and you can see them in all their glory via a short boat ride with expert guides through a mangrove sanctuary.
WestJet offers non-stop service Wednesdays and Sundays and Air Canada offers non-stop service every Saturday making it easy to access this dual-island paradise this summer.
No matter what type of adventure you’re after, be it on the water, underwater or on land–Antigua and Barbuda likely offer something you’re looking for.
Majestic Colorado: Where Adventure Awaits
Discover the many sides of this stunning state, from epic hikes and soaring sand dunes, to rich history, craft cocktails and excellent food
Words & photos by Nicole Servinis
FMy first visit to Colorado left me awestruck at the diversity of experiences and landscape this state has to offer. Whether you’re after adrenaline through adventure or tranquility through breathtaking sights, Colorado promises unforgettable experiences at every turn. I can honestly say that uncovering the Rockies was a journey that exceeded all expectations.
Western Chic
No visit to Denver is complete without a pilgrimage to ROCKMOUNT Ranch Wear, an institution since 1946. Try on a pair of cowboy boots or a stylish Stetson hat, embracing Denver’s frontier spirit with authentic flair. I bought my very first pair of “Cowgirl” boots and simply can’t get enough of them.
Durango’s downtown area is also a shopper’s paradise, with an array of unique local shops offering everything from handcrafted jewellery to western wear. The artistic spirit of Durango is reflected in its numerous galleries and cultural events, which make strolling through town feel like you’re in a Western film.
The Siamese Twins are a famous rock formation located in the Garden of the Gods
Rockmount Ranch Wear. Founded in 1946 by Jack A. Weil, Rockmount is famous for its iconic snap-button Western shirts, cowboy boots, and accessories
Denver and Durango Discovery
Colorado’s heartbeat begins in Denver, a city that seamlessly blends its Wild West heritage with contemporary vibrancy, offering travellers a rich tapestry of experiences amidst its urban sprawl.
Start your journey in Larimer Square, where Denver’s historic roots meet modern-day charm. Wander cobblestone streets lined with Victorian buildings housing chic boutiques, lively cafes, and art galleries. Join a guided walking tour led by Max Maroney from Denver Walking Tours, whose storytelling brings Denver’s colourful past to life. Learn about the city’s evolution from a rough frontier town into a cultural hub, visiting landmarks like the Mile
Dining & Drinks
Indulge your taste buds at Tamayo, where chef Richard Sandoval’s modern Mexican cuisine shines. Savour dishes like their signature chicken tacos paired with a refreshing margarita. Alternatively, Luca offers a cozy ambiance and Italian dishes crafted from locally sourced ingredients, including woodfired pizzas and handmade pastas.
Exploring Durango’s historic Main Avenue is a must. This charming street is lined with iconic spots and hidden gems. The Balcony Bar and Grill is perfect for soaking in the view of the bustling strip while enjoying a refreshing drink. For a standout meal, Moro Spirits and Tavern is a culinary delight, featuring handcrafted cocktails with creative names like Butterflies and Unicorns. But perhaps the crown jewel of Durango’s nightlife is the Wild Horse Saloon. This true country bar offers dance lessons, making it an ideal spot for both beginners and seasoned dancers. It really is a boot-stomping good time, with everyone line dancing and enjoying the authentic country vibe.
High Point which marks Denver’s elevation above sea level. Explore distinct neighbourhoods like LoDo (Lower Downtown) for its trendy bars and restaurants, the 16th Street Mall for shopping, and the Denver Performing Arts Complex for worldclass theater and music.
Durango, nestled in the picturesque Animas River Valley, is a city known for its blend of rich history, outdoor adventure, and vibrant cultural scene. The town’s roots trace back to the 1880s when it was founded as a hub for the Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad. Today, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad remains a key attraction, offering scenic train tours that take you through some of the most breathtaking mountain landscapes, steeped in the area’s mining heritage.
Hit the Road
There’s no better way to experience all of Colorado than by road-tripping. My best friend and I embarked on an epic adventure, making spontaneous stops at magical lookout points and charming small towns. We were constantly awestruck by the breathtaking, ever-changing landscape. From rolling hills, sand dunes and flatlands dotted with cows and horses, to snowy peaks and lush, green mountains, Colorado’s diversity will leave you spellbound.
Buena Vista is a small town nestled in the heart of Colorado’s Rockies I would recommend stopping in, beckoning travellers with its scenic beauty and outdoor adventure opportunities like white water rafting. A muststop is the Surf Hotel for some upscale cocktails, or Cool River Coffee House for delicious bites and specialty coffee.
A standout meal at Moro Spirits and Tavern
Larimer Square is one of the oldest and most iconic blocks in historic downtown Denver. It’s known for its charming architecture, upscale boutiques, fine dining restaurants, and vibrant nightlife
The Colorado State Capitol building with the famous “Mile High” step on the west entrance staircase, marks the exact spot that is one mile above sea level
Tamayo, in Larimer Square Denver, is known for its flavourful dishes that showcase a fusion of traditional Mexican flavours with modern culinary techniques
Lookout point, Buena Vista Colorado
Garden of the Gods and Beyond
Head south to Colorado Springs to see the geological marvels of the Garden of the Gods. Towering sandstone formations, some reaching up to 300 feet, create a dramatic backdrop against the Rocky Mountains. The Siamese Twins hike offers stunning panoramic views of the iconic red rock formations and Pikes Peak in the distance. The trail leads through unique rock formations and ends at a natural sandstone arch, providing a memorable experience of the park’s natural beauty. Consider a luxurious stay at The Broadmoor, an historic resort offering impeccable service and access to exclusive golf courses and spas.
Lookout point, Buena Vista, Colorado
Pagosa Springs Resort
Glamping at Rustic Rook Resort near The Great Sand Dunes National Park in Alamosa
Lion’s Den trail in Durango offers moderate to challenging hikes with diverse terrain and breathtaking views. (you might even see some wildlife)
Rustic Rook Resort, glamping tent
Hot Springs Haven
Nestled along the banks of the San Juan River, Pagosa Springs invites travellers to unwind in its mineral-rich waters, renowned for their therapeutic properties and stunning surroundings. At The Springs Resort and Spa, 23 geothermal pools offer relaxation and rejuvenation. Experience the warmth of geothermal energy firsthand as you explore how this sustainable resource powers local initiatives, from greenhouse domes to snowmelt systems that keep sidewalks clear in winter.
Cultural Odyssey
Embark on a hike to Chimney Rock National Monument, a sacred site revered by the Ancestral Puebloans for its celestial alignment and cultural significance. Join a guided tour or feel free to explore on your own. We were fortunate to meet Danny, who was especially passionate about his role as a forest ranger and the incredible history around us. Continue your journey to Mesa Verde National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its well-preserved cliff dwellings and ancient artifacts. Explore the park’s visitor centre and museums, where exhibits showcase the daily life and artistic achievements of the Ancestral Puebloans. Don’t miss the opportunity to hike to Petroglyph Point Trail, where centuries-old rock carvings offer a window into the spiritual and cultural beliefs of these early inhabitants.
After a long day of exploring you won’t want to drive far to unwind, so check into The Mesa Verde Motel in Mancos, Colorado. It’s close to Mesa Verde National Park, nestled in the quaint town of Mancos. The motel itself boasts cozy and well-appointed rooms equipped with modern amenities to ensure a pleasant stay. They have a bar and café and fun outdoor games for entertainment.
Colorado’s allure lies not only in its breathtaking landscapes and outdoor adventures but also in its rich tapestry of history, culture and natural wonders waiting to be explored. Whether you’re wandering the streets of Denver’s Larimer Square, hiking amidst the towering sand dunes of Alamosa, or soaking in the healing waters of Pagosa Springs, each moment in Colorado promises a new discovery.
Sand, Sun, and Serenity
Venture west to Alamosa and discover the surreal landscapes of Great Sand Dunes National Park. These towering dunes, shaped over millennia by the relentless winds sweeping across the San Luis Valley, offer a unique playground for adventurous souls. Surfing Colorado’s sand dunes is an exhilarating experience—imagine snowboarding meets wakeboarding, but on a sea of sand! For those like me who might find the towering dunes a bit intimidating, no worries! You can still join in the fun by sliding down on your behind. It’s a thrilling ride either way, perfect for all adventure levels. Retreat to Rustic Rook Resort for a night of glamping under the starlit Colorado sky, where the quietude of nature and warmth of a crackling campfire create unforgettable memories.
Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve near Alamosa, Colorado
Garden of the Gods, a stunning natural park located in Colorado Springs features towering red rock formations, dramatic vistas, and excellent hiking trails
The Chimney Rock Trail in San Juan National Forest (near Pagosa Springs) is a moderate hike that offers stunning views of mountains and valleys, as well as the iconic Chimney Rock formation
An
On The Road
With the summer season finally upon us, there’s no better time to take advantage of the open road. An RV vacation offers not only the chance for a welcome change of scenery after what feels like endless months of lockdown in various forms. But it also puts you firmly in the driver’s seat–both literally and figuratively. There’s something truly exciting about mapping out your own route and seeing it through; it’s an experience that can be both spontaneous and secure at the same time, making an RV trip the ideal escape for our current times.
Cruise America/Cruise Canada (cruiseamerica.com) makes this possible with a robust fleet of vehicles, decades of experience and numerous locations throughout North America. With everything we’ve gone through in this last year, people are craving a safe means of enjoying all that summer has to offer. An RV vacation just might be what fits the bill.
Perfect For Families or Groups
RV trips offer a perfect way to reconnect with family or spend quality time in small groups (i.e. a caravan of a couple of families) since vehicles can sleep up to seven. Two full beds are ready to use immediately without folding down or adjusting interior furniture. In addition, each vehicle comes equipped with air conditioning, a fresh water toilet, shower, microwave, generator, fridge, gas cooktop and plenty of cargo space. And you can also feel free to bring your pet along for the ride.
Worry-Free Travel
Cruise America/Cruise Canada keep the process simple, whether you’re a first-time RV captain or a seasoned pro. There’s no special license required, vehicles are easy to operate and insurance is included. They offer a free mobile app you can download to help you find destinations and campsites, as well as assist you with troubleshooting issues.
Quality & Reliability
Since they own their own fleet, you’re dealing directly with Cruise America which means they have control over quality and maintenance
of the vehicles so safety and reliability are top priorities. Each Cruise America RV rental is custom-manufactured to be as safe, comfortable and as reliable as possible. In operation since 1972 with more than 45 years of experience in the RV rental industry, renters can feel good about the vehicles, service and assistance they’re getting.
Flexible Rentals
Depending on what your plans are, you have the option of oneway rentals which make it easy to maximize your time visiting new places instead of backtracking. For example, you could fly into one city, pick up your RV and drop it off in another. With more than 120 rental locations in the US and Canada, planning your route is a snap. Just note that one-way rentals need to be reserved in advance and are subject to availability.
More to Explore
The hardest part about planning your RV vacation might just be choosing where to go. Multiple locations in Canada and the USA ensure plenty of options to explore. In fact, there are 130 locations in 33 states and five Canadian provinces. So whether you’re looking to beach-hop, sleep under the stars at campsites along the way or check some awe-inspiring national parks off of your bucket list–you have endless opportunities to make your travel dreams a reality–minus the stress of schedules, searching for hotel rooms or finding restaurants.
Dive into Fiji
This beautiful island nation is home to some of the best diving and snorkelling in the world
By Suzanne Morphet
“Five turtles and a big, velvety, purple octopus!”
Those words are scribbled in my Diver’s Log book from December 1992. My husband and I were in Hawaii and had just completed our sixth dive.
I didn’t know it then, but it would be our last dive for decades. As much as we loved it, life and family got in the way.
But when I came across my log book earlier this year, along with a photo of my 34-year old self looking elated after being certified to dive, I longed to do it again.
This time it would be in Fiji. With its warm water, abundant marine life, profusion of colourful coral and a selection of luxury resorts with PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) facilities, this island nation checks all the boxes for both snorkelling and diving.
In fact, Fiji is known as the Soft Coral Capital of the World for the variety of species that grow alongside hard coral reefs. And even though coral bleaching and overfishing are problems everywhere, Fijians are making mighty strides to conserve their ocean resources.
Near Likuliku Lagoon Resort, we pull on our masks and snorkels for our first underwater adventure after a direct flight from Vancouver to Nadi, Fiji’s gateway city.
“It’s our best site,” says our guide, “follow me.” A short but exhilarating boat ride from the resort has brought us to this spot that could be in the middle of the ocean, but when we look down, the reef is right there, less than a metre underwater.
Kokomo Island Resort
Kokomo Island Resort
Jumping in, we enter another world. Fish nibble from what look like giant upturned platters that shimmer under the sun’s rays. Striped fish, dotted fish, pooping fish! I can’t help but laugh into my snorkel when a rainbow coloured parrotfish leaves a cloudy deposit in the clear water, then speeds jerkily away as if to say, ‘I didn’t do it!”
No wonder there are so many well-fed fish. The reef is vibrantly alive, like a garden at peak harvest, chockablock with colourful produce for the owners, in this case, the fish and other marine life.
A few days later, we’re at Kokomo Private Island, a resort that boasts a fleet of boats for every possible adventure. One morning we simply walk a few metres from our villa to the fringing reef offshore. Kicking our fins, we snorkel to the resort’s coral nursery where several man-made structures are anchored to the ocean floor with coral fragments attached. Growing climate-resilient coral is
just one of half a dozen conservation programs run by the resort’s four marine biologists. Coral is foundational here, as Kokomo lies alongside the Great Astrolabe Reef, one of the world’s largest barrier reefs.
“Big stride” says Viviana, our diving instructor, as I put my regulator in my mouth and tighten the straps on my buoyancy control device for my first dive in 32 years.
It’s scary at first, but soon we’re 12 metres under. Sea fans wave in the current and tropical fish look me in the eye. A green turtle glides by. And look! Over there–a manta ray!
When Viviana snaps her fingers above a
tapestry of feathery crowns, the creatures recoil in unison and disappear into the coral. I learn later they’re Christmas tree worms and their ‘crowns’ catch their food.
By the end of our fourth dive, I realize how much I like diving. The ability to move up, down, sideways or simply hang weightless is unmatched on land.
My Diver’s Log now has some new entries. The last one reads ‘March 2, 2024, Stick Bommie, Fiji’s Great Astrolabe Reef. Amazing!’
Adventures in and Around Cuenca in Ecuador’s Andean Highlands
This
beautiful UNESCO-listed city is overflowing with charm and opportunities for everything from hiking to horseback riding
By Diana Ballon
How could I have known when I booked a flight to Quito, Ecuador that I’d end up riding a horse and cycling on a section of the Inca Trail? Isn’t that in Peru? Little did I know that the Inca Trail actually extends across five countries in South America.
While Ecuador has become synonymous with the Galapagos Islands, the Amazon and the Andes Mountains are two other areas where you can enjoy the rich biodiversity and natural beauty so plentiful in this country. On a recent trip, we chose the magical town of Cuenca in the southern part of the country as a base for a four-day deep dive into the rich colonial and Indigenous architecture of this city, and the natural beauty that lies just beyond its borders.
As elsewhere in this small country of Ecuador, there are relatively inexpensive and quick domestic flights that connect the capital of Quito with other parts of the country. In just under an hour, we arrived in Cuenca to begin our journey, guided by the awesome Wilson Galarza of the highly-rated Cuenca Bestours.
Adventures beyond
Cojitambo is a beautiful archaeological site 21 kilometres northeast of the city of Cuenca on top of a sacred mountain. The rounded stones of Incan ruins here still remain as terraced walls that were formerly shelters for elite runners, or chasquis, who delivered messages throughout the Inca region.
Cojitambo is also considered the best area for rock climbing in Ecuador. Some of the most intrepid in our group rappelled down a steep overhang with amazing dexterity, while I wandered uphill to see the ruins.
Another day, we hiked in El Cajas National Park in the Ecuador highlands. We began with a leisurely walk, at 3,100 metres, in forest around Llaviucu Lake. We then took a short drive uphill for a slightly more vigorous hike, at 3,900 metres. Here at La Toreadora Lagoon it is more of an alpine tundra ecosystem with low-lying shrubs and grasses, in an ecosystem sandwiched between forest line and the snow line above.
With about 18 per cent of the world’s bird species in Ecuador, including 24 types of hummingbirds, I am not surprised to hear birds all around me. I spot a whitebellied dacnis with a bright blue head in a tree and hear the croaking and growling sounds of toucan all around me. Wispy pampas grass blows in the wind, and I catch sight of a couple of llamas gazing up at us in a field. Myriad colourful flowers provide an accent to the velvety green landscape.
And among my favourite activities was horseback riding at Centro Ecuestre Bellavista, a family-owned equestrian centre located just outside the city. I’ll admit—I don’t really know how to ride. But somehow, astride a well-trained Arabian horse and the close scrutiny of the centre’s owner Sebastian Donoso, I was able to ride 24 kilometres along a trail that rises up into the mountains, through forest and past bright green fields. I could see the red roofs of homes below me, and horses and cows grazing in the fields. Above, the sky is a brilliant blue, with wispy clouds flowing through it.
Why visit Cuenca? Because the city seems to offer something for everyone—from the colonial charm and cobblestone streets of the city, to a rich Indigenous culture and Andean landscapes ideal for cycling, hiking and rock climbing.
The city of Cuenca
In 1999, Cuenca was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. With a rich culture and beautiful architecture, the city, established in 1557 and the third largest in Ecuador, has become a popular retirement destination. Its beautiful architecture reflects a mix of Spanish colonial influences—with tiled roofs, balconies and rectangular doors and windows—as well as neoclassical features.
On the day we visit the main square, a bande de pueblo (village band) plays Andean Ecuadorian music to mark a national holiday. We visit a fruit market and sample everything like tree tomatoes and taxo (a type of passionfruit), to guava and guanabano or soursop. We cycle along one of four small rivers in the city, the Tomebamba, and we visit the Homer Ortega museum and store where I buy my first genuine Panama hat. Here I learn that, as one of the main production centres for these toquilla straw hats, 80 per cent of the population of Cuenca were involved in producing
them in the early 20th century. Another day, we wander the pretty neighbourhood of San Sebastian, where we stop for beers on an outdoor terrace near the beautiful San Pedro del Cebollar Park. We also visit Pumapungo, an outdoor archaeological museum with Incan remains at the top of a hill and beautiful gardens below.
Delicious Ecuadorian food from many great restaurants in the city is another highlight—everything from creamy potato soup to slow-roasted or barbecue pork, chicken, a corn-based mote pillo, fresh fruit, fruit juices and cheesecake for dessert.
All photos by Diana Ballon, except
page:
right photo by Kristen Kellogg, courtesy of ATTA.
FEED YOUR SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE ON AN ARCTIC EXPEDITION CRUISE
Canada’s High Arctic offers a playground of unique experiences and opportunities for exciting discoveries
WORDS & PHOTOS BY JUDI COHEN
The Arctic has captivated explorers for hundreds of years, with many ill-fated expeditioners dreaming of conquering the Northwest Passage. Recently, curious and adventurous travellers have been welcomed aboard polar expedition ice-class ships designed to withstand ice and rough seas, to venture into the remote Canadian Arctic.
I consider myself one of the lucky few adventurous passengers to visit the Canadian Arctic in Nunavut. My first small ship Arctic expedition aboard the MS Ocean Endeavour with Adventure Canada moved me so profoundly that I returned to explore the remote Arctic with Quark Expeditions aboard the Ultramarine within that same summer.
ULTRAMARINE: THE ULTIMATE LUXURY POLAR ADVENTURE VESSEL
I have been fortunate to cruise on many polar expedition ships, but this was my first time with Quark Expeditions aboard the Ultramarine. Wow! Ultramarine is a shiny, new vessel with all the bells and whistles, including helicopters, luxurious cabins, a spa and most importantly for an adventure seeker like myself–a knowledgeable expedition team, with an experienced captain and crew.
SPECTACULAR VIEWS
While polar landscapes are captivating from the ship’s observation decks, they’re even more so from the sky—a view you can enjoy from one of two twin-engine helicopters stationed on the top deck. It was exhilarating to take two flightseeing excursions, one at Cambridge Bay and the other at Devon Island, to see the etchings in the ice caps, glaciers, ice floes and winding fjords. A 15-minute helicopter flightseeing excursion is included, but on this trip, Quark was able to offer two opportunities to each passenger at no additional charge.
View from Helicopter over Devon Island
Judi during a Zodiac landing at Glacier on Baffin Island
MS Ocean Endeavour with Adventure Canada
KAYAKING
ADRENALIN-PUMPING ZODIAC EXCURSIONS
In case you’re not familiar, a Zodiac is a rigid inflatable open boat that can accommodate around 10 passengers to take them from the ship to rocky shorelines for hikes, or on a scenic cruise to watch wildlife or view glaciers from a safe distance. I was always dressed in waterproof clothing from head to toe, so that when the Zodiac driver kicked up the speed, I could enjoy every exciting moment knowing I was warm and comfortable.
POLAR BEARS
Keeping a safe distance from the shore, the firearms-trained Zodiac operators who were also bear guards, cruised along the shore where we saw polar bear mothers and cubs in their natural environment. The ten bear guards in our expedition team were the first to leave the ship to ensure there were no polar bears in the area and to set up safe perimeters for landings. They maintained sight lines on all sides and could warn guests if bears were approaching. In the Arctic, bears are the number one priority and the bear guards do everything to keep them safe and ensure there are no interactions with humans.
Weather, water and wildlife permitting, opportunities to go kayaking in the Arctic may be offered during the expedition. When the seas are calm and the sun is shining, kayaks are a wonderful way to explore fjords, glacier faces and see whales from water level while paddling through brash ice and icy waters. I did not sign up in advance for sea kayaking and the number of kayakers is limited. If you are interested in kayaking on an Arctic expedition, be sure to sign up early. I did, however, go kayaking on an Alaskan small ship cruise and highly recommend the activity if you can handle it physically.
POLAR PLUNGE
For at least half of the passengers on every polar expedition I have been on, one of the highlights is jumping off the ship into the frigid waters in what is known as the Polar
Plunge. Polar plungers receive certificates and some buy souvenir T-shirts as a reward for their bravery. Everyone participates while the Polar Plunge is happening, either to jump in or to cheer on the brave souls jumping off.
EXPLORING THE ISOLATED HAMLET OF RESOLUTE, NUNAVUT
As the captain navigated through rough waters breaking the sea ice surrounding us, I heard and felt the crashing and crunching sounds from beneath the bow of the ship. Approaching the tiny hamlet of Resolute, with a population of just 140, I hoped that Zodiacs could cross to the shore so we could explore before our transfer to the airport. Fortunately, the wind and currents carried the ice flows out to sea and Zodiacs could operate without difficulty.
The adventure continued right up until the last moment in Resolute. Polar bears were
sighted in the area and the RCMP were on watch in case a bear came too close to the centre. While we were permitted to walk along the gravel and dirt paths near the houses, it didn’t take much convincing when we were asked not to leave the hamlet.
There were polar bear skins drying on the ground and hanging on the sides of houses as well as animal skulls on display. Children played on the sides of dusty paths all the while. It was hard for me to imagine living, as these people did, in 24-hour darkness for four months of the year, in a barren and isolated community with just one co-op store stocking the necessities for the hamlet. But I will never forget my time here.
An expedition in the High Arctic in Canada will absolutely satisfy your sense of adventure and trigger your spirit of discovery.
Post office in Resolute, Nunavut
Arrival by Zodiac for a landing on Baffin Island
Bear Guard on a landing at Baffin Island
Polar bears on shore, seen from Zodiac
On the Ultramarine Helipad
COLOMBIA’S AMAZON EXTENDS A WILD WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE
By Cathy Senecal
Wemotor across the milky brown Amazon, rain drops pelting our faces as a late afternoon shower falls. The rain stops and the sun lowers, casting a rosy veil as two gleaming dorsal fins rise and fall in unison off the bow. Then, another off to the left. Soon, dolphins are all around us, their arched surfacing and resurfacing a sleek dance we marvel at as much as the colour of these Amazon river dolphins— clearly pink.
It was the promise of birds, monkeys and dolphins that drew me to the Colombian Amazon, an ecosystem that makes up a third of Colombia. This country has the largest number of species of birds, butterflies and orchids on earth. But it was also the stories of conservation and ancestral revival that intrigued me, and the delicious fusion of foods.
I experienced Colombia’s Amazon via off grid Calanoa Amazonas, a low impact grouping of seven unique cabins designed by artist and owner Diego Samper, a Colombian Canadian who, with his wife Marlene, splits his time between Gibsons, BC, and Calanoa.
A MAGICAL LOCALE FROM WHICH WE LET THE AMAZON FLOW THROUGH US
A visit to Colombia reveals a culturally rich tropical forest in the Upper Amazon where Brazil, Colombia and Peru meet
and our guide spots a macaw.
Guide Herman Osorio tells us about Foundation Entropika, which protects nomadic owl monkeys.
Cut off from the rest of the country by road, far removed from the colour of Cartagena, the comfortable, palm roofed structures at Calanoa stand on stilts, some with views over the vast river. This is our magical locale from which we let the Amazon flow through us.
One day, our small group of 12 heads upriver in a long narrow motorboat. We’re mesmerized by high banks, villages on stilts and swallows swooping past. After mooring on the Peruvian side, we climb up a slippery bank, walk across rickety log bridges and past Ceiba trees
“Supporting such foundations is the way Calanoa Amazonas works with and helps the surrounding Indigenous communities, with tribes including Cocama, Huitoto, Yagua and Ticuna, the biggest, who came from Brazil 700 years ago.”
Besides afternoon walks, we kayak up a shadowy river tributary, or dance with locals who show us a traditional coming of age ceremony. Always, sultry humidity prevails. Relief is a cool shower, a nap in an awningcovered bed, or a contemplative sit on the common deck overlooking the river.
Refreshed, we walk from well spaced cabins on raised wooden walkways to the communal dining area. We feast on renowned Brazilian, Colombian and Peruvian fusion cuisine, developed by Samper’s wife Marlene, and created using local traditions by Mary Rojas and Guillermina Sinarahua. The chefs serve grilled Dorado fish wrapped in a banana leaf. Yucca is flattened and grilled. They use a soft yellow fruit that grows everywhere to make a tart, delicious araza sauce; and they make tucupi, an ancient recipe blending a smoky flavoured manioc juice with leaf cutter ants, which adds a surprising herbal flavour. A cake made from acai berries is amazing.
with bases the size of trucks. Immense butterflies flit about. Violet hummingbirds whiz past,
Photo Credits: Top photo is courtesy of Calanoa Amazonas; middle photo by Cathy Senecal
THE MOST IMPRESSIVE SOUND IN THE JUNGLE
Wildlife is everywhere. Oropendolas, birds that are an intriguing part of Calanoa’s soundtrack, wake us with raucous “glop a glop, bleep” sounds, described aptly as sounding like laser beams or gargling liquid metal. Later, we watch oropendolas fly from long hanging “bag” nests they weave in the trees in Mocagua, a hibiscus scented village next door, where many of the staff live. Adorable squirrel monkeys appear for treats doled out by the staff or visitors. Tarantulas reveal themselves on nightly jungle walks (and where staff will gently
return them to the forest). The pink dolphins, of course, joined us on our sunset ride.
“The Amazon inhabits people’s imaginations, and what we try to achieve is that visitors, through an immersion of the senses, leave the forest with it inside,” says owner Samper. “The relationship between the forest and its people is based on reverence and respect. Calanoa not only provides jobs, but welcomes forest inhabitants—such as Jorge Llerena, lead guide and one of the best trackers in the region, or the chefs in the kitchen—to express and share their culture and explore the untapped potential of Amazonia.”
IF YOU GO
Access Calanoa Amazonas by a two hour flight from Bogota south to Leticia, the frontier town on the tri border of Brazil, Peru and Colombia. It is five minutes by taxi to the river port from the airport, followed by a sensory filled 90-minute boat ride to Amacayacu National Park and Calanoa. Calanoa Amazonas has rooms for individuals and groups but also offers workshops on photography, yoga, music and field school. Visit calanoaamazonas.com for more details.
calanoaamazonas.com
Photo Credits: All photos by Cathy Senecal, except for middle right, courtesy of Calanoa Amazonas’
El Salvador Was Made For Adventure
Don’t sleep on this Central American gem when it comes to opportunities for stepping outside of your comfort zone
After a wave licked the black volcanic sand of El Sunzal beach, my son Andrew was reflected in the glaze as he walked towards the Pacific Ocean. Given our location in Central America, perhaps it was Chalchiuhtlicue, the Aztec deity of water, who afforded me this opportunity to experience an unforgettable adventure with my son.
It was a seat sale to San Salvador, El Salvador that decided our March Break destination. Once booked, the trip started to take shape as an adventure for the body, mind and palate. We would surf, hike a volcano, visit a Mayan ruin and eat like locals.
SURF
The Salvadoran government named a 13-mile stretch of the La Libertad area shoreline as Surf City. Our hotel was right on El Sunzal beach, one of the top surfing destinations in the Americas and the world. Surf City El Salvador has hosted various classes of the International Surfing Association World Surfing Games annually since 2021, and in 2019, they hosted the World SUP and Paddleboard World Championship.
At dawn, under a golden glow, I watched a handful of diehard paddlers standing in the foamy surf assessing the best line to the break. Too early for me, I went back to bed for another two hours before a breakfast of eggs, beans, plantains and tortillas. Our lesson wasn’t booked until the afternoon.
My 16-year-old son had never surfed and I had only dabbled in the kindly waves at Tamarindo in Costa Rica. Our instructors offered us the basics and then it was straight to the beach under the menacing 1 p.m. sun. Exhausted by the paddle out to the break, I prayed to Chalchiuhtlicue to take it easy on us. There were large boulders with jagged edges nearby that I didn’t want to become acquainted with.
Our two-hour lesson showed us we were no match for the power of the surf, but we were agile enough to get up on our boards and call the adventure a success. I think my momentary stance atop of one of the waves garnered me slightly more ‘street cred’ with my teen. Ungracefully pulling off my wet rash guard put me back in my place, and indicated that tomorrow’s surf lesson might need to be delayed a day, as my arms were almost audibly whining.
WORDS & PHOTOS BY NADINE ROBINSON
HIKE & EXPLORE
A hike in Los Volcanes (Cerro Verde) National Park (home to three volcanos) seemed like an ideal follow up activity for our waterlogged bodies. The guided hike was a reasonable 2.75 kilometres to reach a maximum height of 2,381 metres. We had spectacular views across the valley of another volcano in the distance and passed prehistoric-looking vegetation.
Just as we were feeling accomplished by our hike, we were humbled by the popsicle vendor at the mouth of a crater who had clearly lugged his full coolers of ice and sweet frosty treats up the volcano with him. We
tolerated the stench of sulfuric emissions to marvel at the crater’s turquoise waters.
Our quivering quadriceps got us back to the parking lot in much less time than it took to scale the volcano, and with that, we had managed to even out our surfinduced soreness.
The next day, it was time for some history. Tazumal Archeological Park impressed my son who had never seen a Mayan archaeological site before. For me, the AD 100 to 1200 settlement was reminiscent of sites I’d seen across Mexico, and well worth the visit.
PUPUSAS
On our late drive in from San Salvador airport to La Libertad, we stopped at a gourmet pupuseria recommended by our driver to try several flavours of pupusas, a delicious stuffed flatbread and El Salvador’s national dish.
In addition, on the way to Tazumal we found a roadside stand worked by a Salvadoran woman and stopped for a truly authentic version of the dish. We watched as she rounded the dough and pushed the bean and cheese filling inside before closing it, flattening it and tossing our order onto a scalding grill.
As we munched on our delicious, doughy, streetside treats, I reflected on the fact that without some risk in life, we would never have been climbing volcanoes, touring ancient ruins, or surfing competition-level beaches in El Salvador together.
MDriving Spain’s Ancient Roman Road
Two friends embark on an unforgettable adventure through Spain along the iconic Ruta de la Plata
y lifelong friend Les and I pose before the Eduardo Chillida sculpture, “Praise of the Horizon,” count to three and jump. Checking out the quick shots taken by our Gijon guide Liliana Ausin, we all laugh aloud because she’s captured us mid-air, limbs akimbo, before the massive concrete work of art—a partial halo on stout legs. Stepping into the middle of the sculpture, we’re surrounded by the hush of waves breaking off the Cantabrian Sea far below, the sound magically lifted and amplified by the cliffs and the rounded sculpture.
Gijon’s signature work of art crowns Santa Catalina Hill next to the bluffs of tiny Cimavilla Peninsula, a neighbourhood that sprouts like a mushroom between the city’s twin beaches. It’s the oldest part of Gijon, the capital of Asturias in northern Spain. Over 2,000 years ago, Gijon was the ultimate prize for Roman legions invading from the Mediterranean 1,000 kilometres to the south. For 200 years, Rome held this ground, building a kilometre of protective wall, elaborate villas and the thermal baths of Campo Valdes.
Ausin leads us to the thermal bath museum on the eastern edge of Cimavilla where locals idle away the afternoon at outdoor cafes and pubs overlooking San Lorenzo Beach. Buried and forgotten for centuries, the baths’ location under the plaza of San Pedro Church speaks volumes about the tides of history that have washed over this city, as it has all of Spain. Inside the baths, we wander ruins discovered in 1903 and excavated to reveal frescos, mosaics and ingenious construction techniques to heat and move water around.
The next morning, Les and I pick up a rental car and depart Gijon, heading due south on the A-66—the 800-kilometre Ruta de la Plata—the highway paved over the original 2,000-year-old Roman road. Along the way, we seek out more Roman sites unearthed and scattered across the Iberian landscape, always following the highway we nickname Ruta-66.
Excited to start the trip, Gijon, at the public monument, Eulogy of the Horizon
Gijon waterfront where surfers ride waves to the beach
The Gijon city logo, the O resembles an apple
BROTHERS BOUND BY THE ROAD
All of our adult lives, Les and I have shared interests—music, cycling, hockey, travel— always with a common spirit of adventure. Now, for the first time in our 40-year friendship, we’re setting out alone. No spouses. No friends. Just the two of us. A little research reveals that this journey is relatively unusual. When women travel, 91 per cent accompany friends. Men account for just 36 per cent of global travel, and not much of that is a bros-only adventure. Our trip, it seems, is an anomaly.
By the time we reach the southern border of Asturias, climbing A-66 over the rugged Peaks of Europe—nicknamed the Spanish Switzerland—we’ve slipped into a comfortable rhythm, Les happily piloting behind the wheel, while I navigate via the dashboard computer screen and use Bluetooth to play my phone’s playlist through the car stereo. The first song to pop up is the Rolling Stone’s version of “Route 66,” a coincidence that has us laughing and chair dancing.
Ruta-66 catapults us onto Spain’s western plains, an arid landscape beneath endless blue skies where grapes and wheat are fermented into wine and bread. We pull into Leon, a city that started life as Castra Legionis in the first century, named after its role as the garrison for a powerful Roman legion. On foot, we follow the eight-metre-high Roman walls, punctuated by bulging, semi-circular towers called buckets to the city’s magnificent Gothic cathedral, built on the site of Roman thermal baths, just as in Gijon.
In the days that follow, we drive A-66, always within 100 kilometres of the Portuguese border. We share meals, each offering a window into local specialties such as the charcuterie of goat, sheep and cow cheeses at Le Bistró in Villafranca de los Barros. During nights that begin to feel like boyhood sleepovers, we share rooms at historic hotels—Palacio de Oquendo in Cáceres and Alcázar de la Reina in Carmona.
Pulling off Ruta-66, we explore towns like Zamora and Los Santos de Maimona where we find a mix of influences from Portuguese paving styles to Moorish architecture. Always, the Roman influence hovers in the background, sometimes taking centre stage. In Merida—founded when Augustus completed the Roman conquest of Spain and built this idealized model of Rome—temples, theatres and a bridge remain.
ROCKS AND ROLLING STONES
In search of the original Ruta de la Plata or “road of stones,” we follow the smaller N-630 that parallels A-66 as it switchbacks around Bejar. Just outside of town, we find the relic, a roadway of large, flat rocks, grass growing between them. Walking the steep way, we come across a man with a shovel and wheelbarrow, rolling a big stone back into place. He lives nearby and wanted to reduce the wear on his car.
Our road trip ends in Seville, known as Hispalis in Roman times. We walk Seville’s cobbled streets, flit from tapas bar to tapas bar, quenching our thirst, fueling up on small bites and reviewing our week together—easy, comfortable, reaffirming of friendship. We’d recommend bros-only travel, but we’re glad the sleepovers are ending. Selfies beneath the mammoth Metropol Parasol bookend our encounters with contemporary sculptures on formerly Roman lands.
Walking along the Guadalquivir—the only major river in Spain suitable for ship traffic that flows to the Mediterranean—we understand why the Ruta de la Plata links Seville to Gijon. It smoothed the movement of gold, olive oil, crops and troops from sea to sea, ensuring Roman rule on the Iberian Peninsula for centuries.
Carmona, view of the plains around the hilltop town
Leon, Casa Botines built by Antoni Gaudi, 1892, on Medieval Fair Day
Caceres, View of San Francisco Javier Church from the top of the town wall
The Peaks of Europe, two hours from Gijon in northern Spain
Indigenous Experiences Banff, in Alberta
Two unique and unforgettable ways to learn more about Indigenous culture in Canada
By Melody Wren
Plant Medicine Walk
Under a clear blue sky, we drive to Cascade Ponds to meet Jordan Ede, an Indigenous guide from local tour company Mahikan Trails, to go on an Indigenous Medicine Walk. First, Jordan warns us of the rare possibility of seeing grizzly bears, specifically a local 1000-pound bear called “Split Lip,” but he assures us he is well-equipped to deal with bears should any appear.
Jordan tells us that many people only see trees in the woods, but he sees a hardware store, pharmacy and grocery store, based on the properties of different plants. This knowledge has let his Nakoda people survive and thrive for generations in the wild. We walk through Bow Valley, originally an EastWest trading route for the Nakoda and Cree, and as we set out, Jordan leaves a gift of tobacco for the spirits to repay them for the gift of knowledge we are taking from the land. Hunters also leave gifts as thanks for the bounty of food that the land provides them, and
to acknowledge that we will return to the earth.
Indigenous groups have inhabited the area in and around present-day Banff for more than 10,000 years. Bows made from Douglas Fir trees that grew along the river banks gave Bow River its name–water was “life” and of great importance. In 1885 the Canadian Pacific Railway brought other people to the area, at the same time Banff National Park was created, making it older than the province of Alberta.
As we walk, Jordan explains that Indigenous cultures hold all trees as sacred, each having a purpose that has long helped their society thrive, but especially tobacco, sage, cedar and sweetgrass. Wild rosehips are dried and ground and made into tea, new spruce needles and inner bark are both edible and sap is chewed for sore throats or put on wounds to prevent scarring. This memorable walk showed us how to live in the land not just on it.
Nightrise at the Banff Gondola
This unforgettable gondola ride stems from a partnership between Montrealbased multimedia studio Moment Factory and the Stoney Nakoda Nation, and the immersive, interactive multimedia experience honours the sacred mountain. It starts out feeling like a combination of my two worst fears, heights and darkness, but within moments, the magic gently unfolds as we ascend 7,400 ear-popping feet. The gentle reassuring voice of a recorded Nakoda narrator reminds us to “Listen to the mountains. It is the end of another beautiful day. Wasn’t it majestic? Around us was the day and it ended. Night is no longer upon us. It is time to slow down, let go and embrace all possibilities.” These calming words added so much to the gondola ride that I didn’t want it to end. Even though it was cloudy with obscured views, there were changing colored lights amid the darkness.
Banff Gondola
Once in the mountaintop observatory, there were interactive displays, my favourite of which was simple twinkling stars with the same narrator asking, “how many eyes have gazed into infinity?” There were stations with a variety of projected images and beating drums, bringing me to tears over and over again. “Listen to the ones who move things. Dance to the sculptures in the sky, how many suns have looked at the ancient faces? The night is rising and she’s waiting for us.”
On one of the floors a short movie plays featuring heart-thumping footage of majestic, sweeping scenes of Canada. A different narrator asks us to always treat the land with respect and reminds us, “Wherever life takes you, the valley will always be waiting for us.”
The effects of the interactive multimedia experience were eerie, magical and surreal all at once. It was incredible and magical for all the senses, and one I repeated the next night thinking it couldn’t be that magical again. But I was wrong.
Top right image: courtesy of Travel Alberta, Middle right, bottom right and left image: courtesy of Banff Lake Louise Tourism, photo by Studio Alani
