TravelLife Winter 2024

Delicious Detours ISSUE

CONTRIBUTORS

We asked some of our contributors about the best culinary destination they’ve been to and what our readers shouldn’t miss if they visit.

MARRISKA FERNANDES

SINGING THE PRAISES OF ST. PIERRE, PAGE 54

Barcelona and Madrid, Spain immediately come to mind. Seafood paella is one of the best dishes I’ve ever had. It’s a classic Spanish rice dish made with vegetables, saffron and seafood, all cooked in one pan. I lived off paella for days (they have meat, seafood and mixed options). Any restaurant in Spain will have this on their menu and it’s not to be missed.

PAUL LILLAKAS

OLD MEETS NEW IN BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR, WHERE A CULINARY ADVENTURE AWAITS, PAGE 28

One of the best culinary destinations I’ve been to is Baja California Sur. With its limitless seafood-related excursions, diving for Queen Clams in Baia Concepcion with El Burro Baja tours really stood out. Eating them fresh with lime and hot sauce right on the beach was a true seafood-lovers dream come true!

JESSICA PADYKULA

FREDERICKSBURG AND AUSTIN: A DYNAMIC DUO OF TEXAS DESTINATIONS, PAGE 52

Among many other amazing dishes in the region, I still think about the steaming bowls of creamy, vibrantly spiced laksa noodle soup I happily slurped while travelling in Malaysia. Though the specifics of the dish can vary, many versions come packed with vegetables, fresh herbs, seafood and puffed tofu that marry perfectly with the fragrant coconut-curry broth. If you get the chance to try a bowl, I highly recommend doing so!

PUBLISHER/ EDITOR IN CHIEF

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

DIGITAL CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

DESIGN DIRECTOR

PRODUCTION CONTRIBUTORS

No matter where you are in the world, a good meal needs no translation.

Tammy Cecco

Jessica Padykula

Nicola Brown

Joyce Padilla

Gregory Alexander

Diana Ballon

Nicola Brown

Jim Byers

Tammy Cecco

Marriska Fernandes

Paul Lillakas

Charmaine Noronha

Jessica Padykula

Sabrina Pirillo

Darcy Rhyno

Chris Ryall

Cathy Senecal

Debra Smith

Michele Sponagle

Doug Wallace

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SUBSCRIPTIONS

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The dual-island destination of Antigua and Barbuda may be commonly known for its fascinating history and untouched nature, but its mixologists are quickly making quite the name for themselves! Courtesy of Daniel “Timmy” Thomas of Timmy Time Cocktails in Antigua, this Christmas in Wadadli cocktail makes the most of the island’s natural bounty.

ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA

CHRISTMAS IN WADADLI COCKTAIL

2 oz Antigua English Harbour 5-year-old Rum

3 Sorrell tea bags

3 oz passionfruit, turmeric, ginger, lemongrass infusion (sweetened)

1/4 oz sour orange juice (with lemon & lime juice)

3 dashes of angostura bitters

3 drops of pear essence

INSTRUCTIONS

• Put tea bags in rum and let sit

• Meanwhile mix passion fruit, sour orange juice, angostura bitters and pear essence with ice in a shaker, add in the rum, and shake.

• Pour over fresh ice. Garnish with orange

WHERE Food AND Travel COME TOGETHER

“Food is our common ground, a universal experience.” This quote, by James Beard, has always resonated with me, especially where travel is concerned. One of the most intriguing aspects of visiting a new place–be it a new city or an entirely new country–is having a meal among locals. We all need to eat and food is one of the easiest ways to bring people together. Even when the people around the table don’t speak the same language (as is often the case when you travel), whatever your plate is piled high with can speak for itself and create lasting connections. On that note, this issue features our annual Delicious Detours section, highlighting exciting flavours from around the globe.

deep and have a way of uniting both locals and visitors. Fans of Mexican fare and fresh seafood will want to check out our coverage of all the amazing things to eat in Baja California Sur, and if you’re craving a pint, we’ve also got a piece on a pub crawl in Western Australia with a truly unique twist–it takes place via a series of short flights!

One of my most recent culinary experiences happened fairly close to home at Vieux-Port Steakhouse an historic steakhouse in the heart of Old Montreal. My meal here was incredible and one that elevated an already memorable trip. The authentic stone walls and cozy fireplaces only enhanced my experience and I have no doubt I’ll be making a return visit.

I had the opportunity to meet Chef Laiq Khan of Vieux-Port Steakhouse, a beloved Montreal institution, on a recent trip to the city. From perfectly cooked filet mignon to mouthwatering ribeye and porterhouse steaks, the restaurant’s commitment to serving only AAA Canadian Certified beef aged for a minimum of 30 days is evident in every dish.

Other food-focused features include one writer’s journey to Japan where cuisine gets elevated to an art form. Another contributor explores the many unique flavours found in Maui, while another travels to Chicago for a food tour inspired by Emmy-winning TV show, The Bear. We also have a piece on Sifnos, a small Greek island where culinary traditions run

In addition to all of our culinary content, we also have a collection of great stories covering a range of exciting destinations. Just in time for the cold weather, one writer discovers a whole host of unique things to see and do in sunny Kissimmee, Florida beyond visiting theme parks. We also have a piece highlighting what not to miss while visiting Austin and Fredericksburg in Texas, as well as a look at Saint Pierre and Miquelon, a tiny French Hamlet off the coast of Newfoundland that also happens to be the name of an upcoming CBC television show of the same name.

No matter how many places I visit, the joy from the sense of discovery never ceases to amaze me, and that sentiment extends to the countless meals I’ve enjoyed in new destinations. After all, travel has a way of igniting a culinary wanderlust in us all.

Here’s to a heartwarming holiday season and a New Year that brings health, happiness and many opportunities to travel.

Tammy Cecco

TAMMY CECCO EDITOR IN CHIEF

Sam Chak

Ingredients:

1 ½ oz Diega Rosa gin

½ oz lemon juice

½ oz mashed fresh strawberries

¼ oz simple syrup

1 egg white

Preparation:

Add all the ingredients to a shaker

Shake for 15 seconds

Add ice and shake again for 10 seconds before serving

You’ll love the Mayan-inspired mixology and panoramic views at Rüf, the rooftop bar at Ventus Ha’ at Marina El Cid Spa & Beach Resort. Take some of the experience home with you by making one of my favourite cocktails, the Sam Chak, which means “pink” in Mayan. The pretty beverage is a delicious mix of gin and strawberry with a hint of bitterness from rose petals and lavender. A perfect pairing for Rüf’s spectacular sunsets.

Tammy Cecco, Travel Life’s Editor In Chief

Food and theatre combine to create

Culinary traditions run deep–-and bring people together–-in this foodie-focused area in the Western Cyclades

This

Tantalize your tastebuds with culinary delights from the west coast of Canada to Europe and beyond

Discover the many flavours this standout Mexican property has to offer–from traditional to contemporary

Whatever your interests, there’s something you’ll want to see, do–-and eat in this scenic and special region of Mexico

This high-end hotel group is worth getting to know thanks to its commitment to topnotch service and welcoming atmosphere

The Aranui 5 delivers stunning scenery and vibrant culture plus a vital lifeline to the

Fredericksburg’s lush scenery and rich German heritage meet Austin’s vibrant music scene and creative energy, offering a glimpse into the diversity of the Lone Star State

This authentic slice of France, right here in North America, is the namesake of a new CBC series–and a must-visit destination close to

This sunny city in Florida is about so much more than its proximity to theme

This vibrant and diverse city on Mexico’s west coast offers everything from excellent food to a thriving art scene

Must-Haves For Your Next Adventure–Or Great Gifts For a Traveller You Love

Travel-friendly mirror

Looking good on the go has never been easier thanks to Fancii, a beauty-focused brand offering several mirror options that can be popped right into your carry-on. For example, the Abigail Travel Foldable Mirror comes with three dimmable light settings and folds up into an ultra-slim disc. We also love the Mini Taylor featuring perfect lighting for in-transit touch-ups. fancii.ca

The perfect travel

pillow

As much as we love to travel, we also know that flying can be uncomfortable at times. This is where the innovative FlyHugz Travel Pillow comes in, ready to upgrade your next trip. Designed to minimize neck pain and ensure a comfortable sleep in transit, the compact pillow is adjustable, easy to carry and comes with its own travel bag. flyhugz.com

The ultimate water bottle for travellers

If you love collecting passport stamps and meaningful souvenirs from your travels, you’ll love the Adventure Bottle + Stickers. This large, 32-oz bottle is the ultimate accessory for anyone with a passion for new places and comes with 47 destination stickers you can decorate your bottle with–either places you’ve been–or those you’re excited to visit. We love the leak-proof design and double-wall insulation. awesome-maps.com

Linen maxi skirt

The best travel pieces are the ones that are the most versatile. They can be dressed up or down, accessorized in a variety of ways and offer stylish, on-the-go comfort. The handcrafted Annabelle Maxi Skirt by Laluxe Femme checks all of those boxes with the bonus of being flattering for a range of body types. Founded by Lindsay McAllister, Laluxe Femme is Prince Edward County’s only exclusively plus size sustainable clothing boutique. laluxefemme.ca

Stylish slides and flipflops

Combine fashion and function with a pair (or two) of warm weather footwear from Archies, a brand that puts the focus on foot health as well as style. Physical therapist-designed, their slides and flipflops come in a range of colours and provide constant comfort thanks to excellent arch support you won’t find in similar footwear.

ca.archiesfootwear.com

Cozy cashmere wrap

Versatile and cozy, Ovcio’s cashmere wraps come in a wide range of hues, from grey and cornflower, to red and walnut. Whether you’re keeping a chill at bay during your flight or accessorizing an outfit, these supple wraps are designed to keep you elegantly warm on any occasion, no matter where you are. ovcio.com

A surprise journey

Guess Where Trips is a Dragon’s Den-approved company that knows how to give curious travellers a fresh way to see new places. They create one-day mystery road trips covering a range of themes wherein each stop is a surprise. The Road Trip Grif Box is decked out with a gift card that can be applied to any trip, branded tote bag and road trip games book–all conveniently giftwrapped. guesswheretrips.com

Bluboho jewellery

Anyone in the market for a distinct piece of jewellery made with care and sustainability in mind will want to check out bluboho. The handmade pieces are not only beautiful, but also embody the spirit of endless possibility and human connection. Their stackable gold necklaces offer a fun, stylish and unique way to show off your personal style. bluboho.com

For The Foodie On Your List

Customizable gift box

These culinary inspired gifts are an Ode to Delicious Detours

Foodie finds

Whether you’re a foodie or you have a few on your gift list, Gourmet Inspirations is where you can stock up on a wide range of flavourful rubs and sauces. Their No Fuss Turkey Rub ensures a tasty bird every time, while other options include the Smoke & Spice Rub (ideal for grilling) and Land n’ Sea Rub (perfect for fish) among others options. Sauces range from sweet to savoury and effortlessly elevate any dish. Gift boxes are also available. gourmetinspirations.ca

Sometimes the best gift is the one you can tailor to the person receiving it. That’s where The Good Box Gifts comes in. Either choose a pre-made box you love and add to it, or pick out what you love from their collection of unique and covetable items–like Eatable Popcorn in fun flavours like Pop the Champagne and Poppin’ Rose All Day (both infused with their boozy namesakes). We also love the A Good Margarita box with everything you need for an excellent cocktail. thegoodboxgifts.com

Cute cocktail enhancers

You’ve likely heard of bath bombs, but what about cocktail bombs? These flavourpacked spheres come in a rainbow of fun flavours (from tropical to holiday-themed) and using them is as simple as dropping your bomb in six ounces of sparkling water and adding ice and your alcohol of choice (or keep it a mocktail). Created in Canada and female-founded, cocktail bombs are tasty, eco-friendly and made with real fruit. These make great gifts for discerning sippers on the go. cocktailbombshop.ca

Personalized cocktail book

Move over monogramming and say hello to personalized book covers. Aimed at cocktail lovers, the title of this fun recipe book can be customized with a cocktailbased twist on your (or a friend’s) name – think “Sara-Tini” or “Alex-Arita.” The book itself is filled with colourful recipes for every occasion and also contains a personalized cocktail recipe, bar sign and a toast composed just for the recipient. wonderbly.com

GEOX WALK PLEASURE MUST-HAVES

REFINED ELEGANCE: A chic calf-length boot, the Walk Pleasure Boot offers all-day comfort as well as timeless style perfect for pairing with everything from jeans to dresses. The sleek boot can also easily be dressed up or down.

CITY CHIC: The Walk Pleasure 55 Ankle Boot is a contemporary take on a classic look for women, adorned with pretty gold and leather detailing.

THE PERFECT FOOTWEAR & OUTERWEAR FOR TRAVEL

Geox offers an ideal opportunity to embrace comfort without sacrificing style–no matter where you are in the world

Frequent travellers know that racing through airports requires not only speed but also comfort, meaning style can often take a back seat–but it doesn’t have to. Italian brand Geox is bridging the gap between fashion and function when it comes to footwear thanks to their Walk Pleasure Collection, which puts the focus on cushion-like comfort alongside eye-catching design.

Walk Pleasure technology provides a super cushioning sole that absorbs steps and shocks as you walk (or run between terminals) and RespiraTM technology ensures breathable soles that regulate temperature all day. Much of Geox’s outerwear collection also uses this unique technology to help keep you cool and comfortable.

Imagine

The

In terms of footwear, it’s not often you can wear heels that don’t leave you hobbling by the end of a long day (or night). Even sandals and loafers can cause discomfort depending on the design and how long you wear them. These ones, however, make it easy to look and feel good while your travel.

LUXE LOAFERS: Loafers have been having a style moment over the last few years so it might be time to add the Geox Walk Pleasure Loafers to your repertoire. In addition to cushiony comfort, this pair offers breathability and go-anywhere versatility.

HAUTE HEELS: Loafers don’t always need to fall into the casual category. The Walk Pleasure 55 Heels are ideal for taking any outfit up a few notches thanks to intricate detailing and a design that easily blends practical with polished.

STYLISH SANDALS: A high heeled sandal can make or break a vacation. If they can’t hold up against a night of dancing under the stars, they may not make the cut for your next trip. We love the Walk Pleasure 85S Sandal for its understated luxury and focus on comfort.

It’s also worth nothing that Walk Pleasure technology extends to a range of men’s styles, including loafers, ankle boots and formal footwear.

of a shoe as elegant yet comfortable pleased to continue our revolutionary

delicate shapes of the sole give us the same time through our Zero Shock new features that make Walk Pleasure

A STYLISH PARTNERSHIP

In addition to their already robust collection of much-loved footwear and outerwear, Geox maintains a strong relationship with acclaimed actor Penélope Cruz and her sister Mónica. The Spanish siblings have collaborated with the brand in the past and are back with a new Capsule Collection featuring effortlessly stylish pieces that capture the essence of what it means to be comfortably chic.

The warm, seasonal tones of creams, greys and browns are timeless, while the looks themselves put the emphasis on getting from point A to point B comfortably and stylishly.

CAPSULE COLLECTION STANDOUTS

UNIQUE SNEAKERS: Sneakers weren’t just made for your next spin class or HIIT session. The hi-tech Nebula 2.0 Sneaker, with a perforated sole and breathable waterproof membrane, is just as ideal for a marathon shopping session as it is for a race to catch your connecting flight.

ULTRA-COOL COAT: Let’s face it; cold weather is upon us, whether we like it or not. As much as many of us don’t love the drop in temperature, having a standout piece of outerwear can help ease the seasonal transition. Case in point, the Diamond Woman long coat, made from recycled materials.

REVERSIBLE JACKET: Who doesn’t appreciate a multitasking piece of fashion? Anything reversible, like the Diamond Woman reversible jacket, means you automatically get two pieces in one. This jacket features three-quarter length sleeves, oversized hood and cape-like aesthetic.

HOODED VEST: A good vest can be a lifesaver on a cold day, which is why we have our eye on the Diamond Woman sleeveless version. Ideal for layering (or showing off on its own), this cozy piece features a water-resistant, wind-blocking surface.

Charming Hospitality in Mon treal

The Gray Collection offers everything you need for a truly relaxing weekend in the city

BY TAMMY CECCO

Few Canadian cities can match the effortless blend of old-world charm and modern vibrancy that defines Montreal. Strolling the charming cobblestone of Old Montreal, savouring world-class cuisine and experiencing a kaleidoscope of cultural delights can fill a weekend without much planning. It had been years since I explored this city, and I was reminded that a mere 48 hours is not enough.

When looking at options worthy of a weekend birthday celebration, I stumbled on The Gray Collection which ended up being a one stop shop for everything you need for a relaxing stay, excellent food and impeccable rooms.

STAY

This unique collection of local and authentic hotels offers a glimpse into the city’s personality. If you’re looking for a boutique hotel that doesn’t compromise on amenities, The William Gray won’t disappoint. Housed in two historical buildings, the Maison Edward-William Gray and the Maison Cherrier boast architecture dating back to the eighteenth century. It’s a seamless blend of contemporary design and historic architecture, bathed in natural light and adorned with local artwork, thoughtfully chosen furnishings and breathtaking views of Montreal from the rooftop. Visit The Living Room, the vibrant heart of the hotel, where you’ll find a cozy library, a fully stocked bar, a pool table and an eclectic vinyl collection.

EAT

There’s something undeniably enchanting about Old Montreal—its cobblestone streets, historic charm and timeless allure have always drawn me in. So, when it came time to celebrate my birthday, the iconic Vieux-Port Steakhouse felt like the perfect choice. A staple since 1983, this beloved restaurant has built its reputation on an exceptional menu, showcasing only AAA Canadian Certified beef aged to perfection for a minimum of 30 days. The experience, however, goes beyond the plate. From the authentic stone walls to the warmth of cozy fireplaces, every detail invites you to linger a little longer. And let’s not forget the extensive wine list and inventive cocktails—a true feast for the senses. For those who don’t count themselves among the carnivorous crowd, the menu offers plenty of seafood and vegetarian options. Their gourmet weekend brunch menu along with live jazz music will give you plenty of reason to return during your stay.

The Gray Collection offers an exceptional array of culinary options to fill your weekend. Jacopo for Roman-Italian cuisine, Bevo for wood-fired pizza and Perche, for fresh Californian inspired fare are just a few that this hospitality group have on offer. graycollection.com/eat/

RELAX

The equally charming Lofts du Vieux Port, also in Old Montreal, offers 22 fully equipped lofts featuring contemporary style and a classic touch. This and its hip and artsy “live like a local” vibe make it perfect for longer stays or even business travellers. For more great accommodation choice from The Gray Collection: graycollection.com/stay/

Looking to treat myself upon arrival in Montreal, Spa William Gray welcomed me like a warm hug. The intimate size and cozy ambiance was a further reflection of the charm of Old Montreal. A wide range of treatments focused on naturally sourced ingredients are on offer but I indulged in a soothing massage and took advantage of the thermal circuit experience. A friendly spa attendant gave us a tour of the rooms in the circuit and explained the healing and restorative benefits of each. Our first stop was the Himalayan salt room, then the Finish sauna, eucalyptus steam room, cold room and then herbal sauna. The unique interplay of these hot and cold experiences was the perfect complement to our spa visit. Spawilliamgray.com

No matter what kind of experience you’re looking for in Old Montreal, The Gray Collection has you covered. For more possibilities when planning a weekend in Montreal: graycollection.com

Delicious Detours

Welcome to Delicious Detours, our annual food-focused feature highlighting the many ways in which food and travel go hand in hand. The following pages feature a range of stories that put the spotlight on exceptional culinary experiences around the world, from Japan to Chicago to Maui and beyond. We invite you to dive into the many exciting flavours our contributors have uncovered and take a moment to savour the ways food has the power to take us somewhere new. After all, no matter where we are in the world, a good meal needs no translation.

6 OF THE BEST POP-UP CHRISTMAS BARS TO VISIT IN CANADA THIS

Holiday Season

Holiday Season

BY NICOLA BROWN

December is here and temperatures are dropping, which means it’s time to get into the holiday spirit(s)! Don’t miss these pop-up holiday bars and festive cocktail menus all across the country from Vancouver to Toronto. Whether you’re seeking something warm and spicy, rich and creamy, or bold and unexpected, these cozy spots to raise a glass will have you feeling merry in no time.

Tipsy Reindeer

When: Until December 23rd

Where: 100 Symes Road, Toronto, ON tipsyreindeer.ca

Follow the twinkling lights and festive decor to this pop-up holiday bar in a cozy loft warehouse in Toronto’s Junction neighbourhood. Try playful spins on classics like a Regroni with spiced rum, or a S’moretini with cinnamon and coconut cream topped with a toasted marshmallow. Or rewrite the rules with Reindeer Fuel in which lychee juice, Soho liqueur and Fior di latte mingle in a stemless martini glass held chemistrystyle by a wire reindeer stand. A couple of festive beers, Elixirs (shots) and warm options like Silent Night, a mulled wine, join the robust menu alongside tapasstyle bites like Rudolf’s Roots and Leaves, Santa’s Sliders and North Pole Pudding with caramelized pears and brown butter zabaione.

Miracle Toronto

When: November 15th onwards, Mon-Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 2pm-2am

Where: ThirdPlace event venue, 875 Bloor Street West, Toronto, ON miracletoronto.com

This Christmas-themed pop-up bar is serving drinks by one of Toronto’s favourite speakeasies, Civil Liberties. Indulgent, ingredient-rich options like a Christmasaurus feature pineapple rum, mezcal, velvet falernum, apricot liqueur, lime, coconut milk, toasted cumin, coffee and pineapple syrup. Joining these heavy-hitters are some familiar-sounding favourites like Hot Buttered Rum and Jingle Balls Nog. Kitschy decor and welcoming vibes create irresistible holiday nostalgia, and a genuine commitment to the spirit of giving means a dollar from every drink goes to Nellie’s Women’s Shelter in Toronto.

Mistletoes and Margaritas

When: Until the end of January, Mon-Thurs 12pm-late, Fri-Sat 12pm-2am, Sun 12pm-late Where: 121 Ossington Avenue, Toronto, ON papichulos.ca

Papi Chulo’s brings colourful Mexican flair to their holiday fiesta on the Ossington strip. Joining seven different margarita flavours are the Sips of the Season, including Under the Mistletoe, a zesty combination of tequila, Triple Sec, lime, agave and white cranberry. Take it up a notch with the Gingerbread Fling with gingerbread vodka, Kahlua, velvet amaretto, whipped cream and chocolate. For something short and sweet, try the Rum & Pump, an Elves Elixir (shot) of rumchata, rum and pumpkin syrup. Paired with a full menu of shareable apps, burgers, sandwiches, and of course tacos, this is the spot to be for those holiday party vibes.

Red Nose

When: Until December 23rd, Thurs-Sun 5pm-late

Where: Frenchie Wine Bar, 616 17th Avenue SW frenchieyyc.com

Calgary’s newest Christmas pop-up bar

Red Nose gets cozy at the intimate 38-seat Frenchie Wine Bar tucked behind their sister restaurant UNA Takeaway on 17th Avenue SW. Expect festive flavours and holidayinspired sips for an elevated celebration of the season in style. Try the Ember & Clove Negroni with spice-infused gin, the Peach Pie with all-spiced peach puree and vanilla liqueur, or the Mistletoe Martini complete with basil syrup and gold flakes. Pair it all with warming favourites like crispy gnocchi, arancini and melty fondue. If you’re looking for a fresh and sophisticated take on holiday pop-up fun, this is the place to be all month long. Reservations recommended.

Sippin’ Santa

When: Until December 30th, daily 4-10pm

Where: The Standard Luxury Tavern, 360 Elgin Street, Ottawa, ON sippinsantaottawa.com

Keep the tropical holiday celebrations going at Sippin’ Santa pop-up cocktail bar in Ottawa. Santa Claus and Hawaiian surf come together over a menu of Instagramworthy tiki cocktails (think Sugar Plum Mai Tais served in shark mugs with mini surfboards, lei-d reindeer shotglasses, stripey straws and drink umbrellas galore) in a space dripping with tinsel, Christmas lights and fishing nets full of ornaments that bring this exotic holiday oasis to life. Best of all, many of the wacky mugs you’ll be imbibing from are available for sale to bring the good times home with you. Reservations recommended. Mele Kalikimaka!

12 Cocktails of Christmas Tradition

When: Until the first week of January, daily 11:30am-midnight

Where: H Tasting Lounge, 1601 Bayshore Drive, Vancouver, BC htastinglounge.com

Travel the globe for the holidays via H Tasting Lounge’s 12-cocktail menu inspired by festive traditions around the world. Indulge in the spirit of different countries’ customs like the glow of the Phillipines’ lantern festival and the toasty spices of Germany’s gluhwein. Try Rollerskating to Church in Venezuela, attend Midnight Mass in Italy, then check Santa’s Mailbox back in Canada. Set it all off with an array of tasting plates that highlight Vancouver’s freshest seafood in a sumptuous setting that’ll have you feeling cozy just steps from the seawall.

As an admirer of Carmy (Jeremy Allen White) and his crew, I had to check it out during a recent visit to the Windy City where the show is set and filmed. Twenty-seven fans boarded a bus and set off to the first stop, Mr. Beef, the River North institution that sparked the creation of the series. The humble sandwich with thinly sliced, slow-cooked beef served on a long roll and topped with giardiniera (finely chopped, pickled vegetables) is the star here.

With one bite, I understand the fuss. The beef is perfectly seasoned and beautifully tender. As I nibble, I recognize the kitchen and the dining

room from season one. The thought that my favourite TV chef sat at the same wooden picnic table brings a warm flush to my cheeks—a true fangirl moment.

Next, we follow in the steps of Sydney, who did her own food tour of Chicago in the Sundae episode (season two), where she eats dumplings from Lao Peng Yu. We try the crispy, caramelized chicken versions from Urbanbelly in the Time Out Chicago market. My lips tingle from the spice.

IfThe Bear Necessities

Fans can satisfy their hunger for trivia and great food connected to the hit TV show with a whirlwind tour of Chicago’s tasty highlights

BY MICHELE SPONAGLE

you just can’t get enough of The Bear before season four begins this summer, head to Chicago to immerse yourself in its vibrant culinary scene, from Michelinstarred restaurants to delicious

donuts. Eating your way across town and sampling foods featured in the TV series in just three and a half hours is easy with the Bearinspired, Yes, Chef! Chicago food tour.

Mr. Beef

Mr. Beef Italian beef sandwich

Time Out Market - Dumplings

Top left photos courtesy of HULU, middle photp by Michele Sponagle, bottom right photos by Brian Douglas.

Jeremy Allen White

Carmy and Sydney

You may have noticed that pizza pops up often on The Bear–and it’s not all about deep dish, though local favourite Pequod’s is mentioned. There’s tavern style with a thin “cracker” crust and traditional, too. The latter is what Sydney grabs from the takeout window of Pizza Lobo during that same episode. Think medium-thick crust, luscious tomato sauce and a generous layer of mozzarella with cup-and-char pepperoni

that sit on top like little greasy saucers.

restaurant. Filming was done at Ever, a two Michelin-starred restaurant. If you go, you may recognize the minimalistic dining room and staff who appeared in the show. For the season two “Honeydew” episode, which has Marcus training in a Nomalike restaurant in Copenhagen, shooting was actually done at After, Ever’s sister property next door, with some B-roll shot in Denmark.

We wait on the bus as our guide heads into Roeser’s Bakery, a Chicago fixture since 1911, to pick up strawberry donuts. These pillowy yeast donuts were bigger than my fist and a gooey, delightful mess. In season one, pastry chef Marcus admires donuts in the Roeser’s window as he looks for inspiration for his own innovations.

The bus slows in front of a nondescript building. It

At the end of the Sundae episode, Sydney indulges in a hot fudge sundae, served in a giant clam-shaped bowl at Margie’s Candies, founded in 1921. We follow suit and sit in booths featuring the original individual jukeboxes. The group scrapes up the melted remnants from their dishes before it’s time for the last stop.

Back near Mr. Beef we pile into the Green Door Tavern, the city’s oldest tavern circa 1872, for an Old Fashioned cocktail in a dark back room still adorned with Christmas lights. In season one, Richie laments the bar is closing. Fortunately, it hasn’t. Chicago’s food and drink scene continues to thrive, something The Bear deserves credit for showcasing to the world. Thanks, chef!

appears in season two’s Forks episode. In it, Richie endures monotonous tasks like endlessly polishing silverware and finds his passion for front-of-house service at a top unnamed

Mr.Beef

Top photos by Michele Sponagle, bottom photos by Brian Douglas.

Roeser’s Bakery

Roeser’s Bakery

Pizza Lobo

Pizza Lobo

A Pub Crawl Like No Other

BY JIM BYERS

She had me at the words “flying pub crawl.”

Sometime last year I met with some people who handle media relations for Western Australia tourism. As we chatted about wineries and what’s new in the city of Perth, one of the young workers mentioned that I could do a flying pub crawl that would take me over a truly spectacular coastline and take us to a few outback pubs for a cold pint.

I don’t think I’ve ever jumped so hard at a public relations pitch in my life.

Discovering Western Australia’s south coast by plane, stopping at some of its most unique and historic watering holes along the way

A year or so later, I was flying low off the south coast of Western Australia in a six-seater Cessna. The water around the town of Esperance, an area most visitors to Oz never see, is a ridiculous shade of aquamarine that even the Crayola crayon people never imagined, with streams of navy blue and bands of emerald green jutting up against blinding, white sand beaches with nary a human footprint to be seen.

We pass brilliant beaches with dark, rounded, offshore rocks that look like photos I’ve seen of the Seychelles as our pilot regales us with stories of local pirates and ne’er do wells.

After maybe 20 minutes of flying along the coast, our pilot with Fly Esperance, the young but capable Ben Wensley, steers us back over terra firma and points out a dirt runway on a scrubby bit of dusty, red outback with low-lying trees. I look down and suddenly wonder if I’ve made the right decision. But Wensley looks confident.

“We’ll make a pass to scare off any cattle or kangaroos,” he says. The plane noses downward and we roll across the dirt “landing strip,” giving myself and three fellow passengers a mild shake and making enough noise to send any curious ‘roos scurrying for cover.

We’re met by a couple of cars and taken to the Condingup Tavern, a gathering spot for local farmers and ranchers in a town of about 280 souls.

I nod at what I take to be a pair of regulars at the bar, and our small group finds a table on the shady patio. I dive into two massive pieces of fish and a small mountain of chips as a local singer and guitarist dips into his repertoire of James Taylor and The Eagles.

It’s the first of three pub stops on Fly Esperance’s “Flying Pub Crawl,” a wondrously scenic and thirst-quenching tour along the southern coast of the vast state of Western Australia, which is roughly the size of Western Europe but with just three million people; two-thirds of them in Perth. Putting aside any jokes about an Australian tour that includes the local pub, it’s without a doubt the most unusual tour I’ve taken in my 15 years as a full-time travel writer.

After a short flight, our second stop is at Lucky Bay Brewing, a popular spot on the outskirts of Esperance. There are tons of people packing the patio on a sunny, 20C day, and a woman with a guitar is playing on a small stage.

We sample a variety of local beers, including Surf Juice Lager, Shipwreck Stout and, as a fine demonstration of Aussie COVID humour, a Lockdown Dark Lager.

From there we take a short flight back to the not-quite-bustling Esperance Airport (just two gates), where we hop in a car for the three-minute drive to Gibson Soak. It’s an historic, old-time pub built in the 1890’s as a stopping point for folks heading to the gold fields north of Esperance. The slightly beaten down, pale yellow building has a small grocery store with bright red Coca-Cola signs in the window and the pub has walls decorated with shiny, silver hubcaps and AC/DC paraphernalia, a pool table and a throwback jukebox.

Outside on the shady patio I sip a Carlton Dry beer. We don’t have time for a meal, but Ben the pilot tells me the lamb shank here is legendary.

As we sip our beers, I ask for a review of the trip from Deb and Russell, a pair of retired Aussies who bounced around in the sky behind me.

“I was a little nervous about being in a small plane, but I loved it,” Deb tells me.

“Smashing,” said Russell. “It’s lot of money ($899 AUD, about $800 CAD) but it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

“I don’t regret it at all.”

Maui: a Feast for the Eyes and the Palate

Come for the stunning scenery, but stay for the incredible food and drinks you’ll find here

By Cathy Senecal

The lushness of palm and mango trees and abundant greenery on Maui’s leeward side is undeniable. Revel in it and feast on these tasty treats. But take time to appreciate Maui’s “other” side. Beyond the bougainvillea and hibiscus rich scenes and scents of Kihei and Wailea, the open, windswept expanses of Southeast Maui—past Hana—are another sort of gorgeous. In terms of food and drink, start with these memorable flavours.

Dragon Fruit

At the biggest organic dragon fruit farm in the U.S., Maui Dragon Fruit Farm, take a one hour tour to see how dragon fruit, pineapple and papaya are grown. Then, while overlooking uninhabited Kaho’olawe Island, taste seasonal fruits, including dragon fruit. For added fun, you can also roll down a hill in a giant Aquaball.

Olowalu Lime Pie

Sure, Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop in Olowalu has a full menu of delicious sandwiches and burgers, but let’s be real. The lineups are for the pies. See if you can have only one from the menu, which includes banana cream, chocolate mac nut, apple crumb, coconut cream and, my favourite, Olowalu lime pie.

Pineapple Everything

Open since 1974, Maui Wine offers several ways to enjoy their unique offerings, including by the glass, in flights and wine cocktails. Along with a flight of bright-tasting wines made from their own raspberries, grapes and pineapples, we had goat cheese balls with pineapple wine syrup and black lava salt at what also happens to be Maui’s only winery.

For happy hour, head to Monkeypod Kitchen for what’s been voted the best Mai Tai on the island because of its honey and lilikoi (passionfruit) foam topping and boozy deliciousness.

Poke—Rhymes With Okay

You can get poke—typically diced and raw marinated tuna—everywhere, including at grocery stores by the airport in Kahului, but for a splurge, head to Spago, chef Wolfgang Puck’s Hawaiian outpost at Four Seasons Wailea. Here you’ll be treated to their bigeye ahi poke in wee sesame tuile cones, with ginger and a dab of tobiko caviar. Simply perfect.

Pipiwai Trail

Park at the Haleakala Kipahulu Visitor Center about 12 kilometres past Hana and follow the signs to this popular six kilometre hike along a gorgeous valley, past guava trees and giant bamboo to the 120 metre Waimoku Falls. On your way back, walk the level, 800 metre Kuloa Point Trail to yet another cove with crashing waves that you can sit and stare at—seemingly forever.

Spam

Hawaiians eat an average of five cans of Spam per year in its many flavours, from hickory smoke to jalapeño. Do as the locals do and pick up some Spam musubi at Oyako Tei in Kahului. This popular snack or lunch item features cooked Spam and rice wrapped in a nori sheet.

Hana and Beyond

Many visitors pick a day to take the 600+ turn road to Hana and then drive back. Keep going! About 20 kilometres south of Hana, after a few kilometres of gravel, smooth black highway reappears. The views on the isle’s windy side are stunning. Pass upcountry ranches and expansive grasslands that ripple like golden waves as you drive high above the Pacific on a road devoid of cars. Drive clockwise around the island starting early in the morning. Better yet, stay a night or two in Hana to soak up its gentler vibe and check out the sites, especially the two below.

Wai’anapanapa Park

Book ahead to visit one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in all of Maui. Head to the right from the parking lot for a superb hike, which after the first 100 metres, you’ll have to yourself. Walk the ocean’s edge with lush forest to your right. On your left, waves crash into massive black lava crevices and arches creating repeated splashes of blue, white and black that one does not tire of. Don’t forget to visit the black sand beach.

Mai Tai

Old Meets New in Baja California Sur, Where a Culinary Adventure Awaits

Spellbinding sunsets, fresh seafood and unspoiled charm converge in this Mexican paradise

For a week, I explored this alluring coastal state, savouring its unique flavours, breathtaking landscapes and heartfelt hospitality. What I found was a world far beyond the usual tourist trappings; a place where time slows down and every moment feels like a celebration of life.

WORDS & PHOTOS BY PAUL LILLAKAS

Small-town charm, hospitality and convenience

We landed in the cozy town of Loreto, situated about 500 kilometres north of better-known Cabo San Lucas on the Baja California Peninsula. I was delighted by the short eight-minute drive to an exceptionally comfy suite at La Misión Loreto Hotel. The ocean-view room with a generous balcony stood out as a comfortable space to enjoy morning coffee while taking in the truly spectacular view. Pelicans, joggers and the occasional car playing festive Mexican music passed by as we enjoyed the warm sea breeze. Being a small town, everything in Loreto feels like it’s just around the corner. From the charming marina where fishermen gather early in the morning, to quaint shops and restaurants owned and operated by passionate locals, this is a walkable place where friendly faces await at every turn.

...this is a walkable place where friendly faces await at every turn.” “

Culinary treasures tucked away in every pocket

As I strolled along sunny streets, I was struck again and again by the smell of mesquite wood grills and toasting tortillas. The cooking begins first thing in the morning and carries on well into the evening. Of many tasty highlights, there were a few memorable standouts:

A taco-tasting lunch and refreshing Mezcal and cucumber margarita at Baja Haay was a real treat.

Chef Ramiro at Los Olivos presented an elevated take on local seafood with a striking tuna and seabass nori roll.

A sunset buffet at Oasis Restaurant showcased an old cooking tradition of burying oysters (more often clams) under gravel and building a fire atop to slowly bake them under the smouldering embers. These were served with a tangy mustard mayonnaise sauce.

A woodfire-grilled extravaganza of bone marrow, tomahawk steak and chimichurri at Serrano Grill was fantastic.

Old culinary traditions are alive and well

On a warm sunny morning, we ventured up the mountain toward San Javier, one of many mission towns like Loreto. On the way, we visited Rancho Viejo, owned by the friendly Chary and Tista, for a traditional rancher’s breakfast. The tour of the ranch came with a novel lesson in milking goats to make fresh cheese and hand-shaping fresh flour tortillas. Fragrant smoke puffed from the chimney of the indoor-outdoor kitchen where the rancher’s wife prepared frijoles (simmered beans), toasted the tortillas on a cast iron slab over a wood fire and prepared and pressed cheese curds from the milk I had just collected. This humble breakfast served as a lesson in the value of the long-lost simplicity of life we so often forget.

An aquatic playground just waiting for enthusiastic players

The Sea of Cortez, often called “the world’s aquarium,” is a playground for aquatic enthusiasts. There is a reason people come here and spend months at a time. We enjoyed snorkelling around Isla del Carmen, exploring a shipwreck teeming with tropical fish and a walk to the adjacent sea-salt ponds.

Later, I got a taste of sport fishing for yellowtail and sea bass in Puerto Escondido, courtesy of Outpost Charters. Our guide fileted the fish and prepared the freshest sashimi lunch while we gleefully watched dozens of playful dolphins swimming alongside us as we cruised. Jumping mobula rays, an array of seabirds and hundreds of leaping fish were merely a taste of the wildlife we were surrounded by. I frequently blurted out, “I could live here!”

Neighbouring towns offer even more delights

Next, we travelled to Bahía Concepción, about a 90-minute drive from Loreto, where gorgeous beaches were just starting to fill up with RV explorers from all over mainland Mexico, the U.S. and Canada. Who wouldn’t want to spend the winter living in such natural beauty? Of all the fantastic excursions and culinary treats we’d enjoyed, the highlight of my trip was a clam-diving adventure and beach picnic with El Burro Baja Tours. After I’d

Memories of Mulegé

The last leg of our trip was certainly not the least. We carried onward to the heart-warming town of Mulegé for a quick stay at the historic Hotel Serenidad. That evening we were hosted by local owner Javier Aguiar at his family’s Las Casitas restaurant. We were treated to local wine, delicious rock lobster and a lovely homemade rice pudding with crisp, caramelized oats. All the while we were regaled with heartfelt stories about the charms of Mulegé. To Javier, his guests are like family and it’s that distinct warmth that permeates the whole town and everyone we met. Other great restaurants worth checking out in the area include Orlando´s, El Zopilote Brewing Co., Asadero Super Burro and Mulege Brewing Company.

In my experience, culinary destinations come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some are overprized and overhyped, but there is nothing like fresh, local ingredients cooked over an open flame by honest, hard-working people who are eager to share a piece of themselves with whoever they’re with. This is what Baja California Sur has to offer, along with a big helping of sun, sea and sand.

For additional information please visit: www.loretobcstourism.com and www.visitbajasur.travel.

spent at least an hour free-diving for clams and enjoying more sea beauty, our guide, Juan Carlos, ushered us to a beach for the most fabulous picnic I’ve ever enjoyed. I was invited to join in as he and his team shucked Queen clams to eat with lime and local hot sauces, scallop crudo, ceviche and even freshly caught fish grilled over a campfire with onions, peppers and a delightful sauce! This was every culinary traveller’s dream.

Oregon’s BIPOC Women Wine Warriors Are Asking Wine Not?

The definition of winemaker in Oregon is being reshaped with Black, Latino and LGBTQIA+ winemakers adding diversity to the industry and inspiring new generations of wine aficionados

By Charmaine Noronha

Chosen

As natural light streams into a modern, cream-coloured cozy abode situated off the Willamette River in Wilsonville, Oregon, a vibrant and gregarious Tiquette Bramlett gingerly pours a glass of 2022 Willamette Valley Chardonnay, one of several wines produced by Chosen Family Wines. Speaking between sips of the delicate blend, it seems only fitting that Bramlett is the vice president of the wine label. As the first Black woman appointed to oversee a winery in a major U.S. wine region, she’s slowly been building her chosen family in the Beaver state.

Originally from San Francisco, Bramlett received her sommelier certification in Los Angelas. While she could have honed her wine career in Napa or Sonoma, she says that Oregon’s Willamette Valley, renowned for its Pinot Noirs, always resonated with her palate.

“I was like, let me come up, explore and see what it’s about, and I just fell in love with the valley,” she says. “It’s such a giving community. If you’re curious, they want to teach you, and I really love that. That’s what seems a little different, too, from the old wine world versus this one. It seems like there’s such a collective spirit here that is very intriguing to me.”

She originally intended to be in Oregon to learn as much as she could for a year before hopping around to other American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), but that year turned into nine years.

In 2015, she started working as a tasting room associate at Anne Amie Vineyards and then as a brand ambassador for Abbey Creek Vineyard, where she served as the acting liaison for the Willamette Valley Winery Association and Women in Wine.

In 2021, the owners of Oregon’s Vidon Vineyard named Bramlett the president of the Willamette Valley winery. Vidon is known for making outstanding Pinot Noirs, the blend that put Willamette Valley on the map. Oregon is now one of the top three Pinot producing states after California and Washington State.

In 2023, Bramlette joined Chosen Family Wines as vice president of the wine label started by Channing Frye, a former Portland Trail Blazer player with former NBA Championship teammate and current Miami Heat star Kevin Love, along with Jacob Gray and Chase Renton, winemaker and owner of L’Angolo Estate. They produce everything from Pinot Noirs to Chardonnays. The name Chosen Family also reflects Frye’s mission of uniting people.

“The juice is good here, we know that about Oregon wines,” says Bramlette. “It’s what brought me here, but it’s the community that’s kept me here. There’s a reason why my spirit wants to stay here right now. My work isn’t done with the community yet. I want to bring folks that look like me together out into the Valley.”

Bringing folks that look like her into the wine industry led to her founding Our Legacy Harvested in 2020, an organization dedicated to educating, advancing and empowering BIPOC folks at any career level within the wine industry.

The community that Bramlette speaks of is a burgeoning one of Black, Latino and LGBTQIA+ winemakers adding diversity to the industry and inspiring new generations of wine aficionados. While producing notable wines gaining recognition, they’ve formed a tightly knit, symbiotic community with a shared vision to create more inclusive wine spaces. In a white male dominated industry, they’re making waves and creating change.

Malbec, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Syrah and Petit Verdot. With Mexican roots, she shares a cultural background with fellow Latina vintner Sofia Torres-McKay, both of whom are fighting for change in the wine industry.

After transitioning from IT to the wine industry, she founded Cramoisi Vineyard with her husband, becoming the only Latina winemaker in Dundee Hills in the Willamette Valley. She went on to develop AHIVOY, a non-profit led by successful Latinx wine professionals to provide education and development opportunities for vineyard stewards in Oregon’s wine industry. In partnership with Oregon’s Chemeketa Community College and Linfield University, the organization offers an EnglishSpanish immersion program to workers to expand opportunities in the wine industry.

Cramoisi Gonzales Wine Co.

“I’m a five-foot Latina woman, I didn’t really see myself reflected back in this industry. So, we really just knew when we started this [wine bar] that we wanted it to be a place to break down barriers,” says Cristina Gonzales, who cofounded Community Wine Bar last year with RAM Cellars winemaker Vivianne Kennedy, a transgender woman.

“There’s a lot of pretentiousness and vocabulary around wine, the image of wine and the wine industry,” says Gonzales. “I mean, if you see both of us, we are not cis white males so we wanted to create a space for BIPOC, queer and marginalized communities that don’t have the same opportunities in general, and especially in this industry.”

Gonzales founded Gonzales Wine Co. in Portland, Oregon in 2010, which produces

“The face of the industry is changing and we are here to promote and support that, as well as those who work in it,” says Torres-McKay. “We’re small but mighty, and we’re here to stay, so the world better get used to the changing face of this industry!” she says. A big Chardonnay cheers to that.

Cristina Gonzales

DINNER THEATRE AT SEA

Silversea’s new S.A.L.T. Chef’s Table tells the culinary story of a destination, wherever you are in the world.

As cruiseship food and wine experiences become more and more refined, Silversea Cruises has taken on-board gastronomy one step further. Their new S.A.L.T. Chef’s Table adds a 10-course evening meal to an already comprehensive culinary program.

“Food is an incredible way to tell the story of the places we visit,” says Andrea Tonet, Silversea’s Vice President of Product Strategy. “This is the principle behind S.A.L.T.,” which stands for Sea and Land Taste.

Available on board the Silver Moon, Silver Dawn and Silver Nova, the S.A.L.T. program includes cooking classes in the S.A.L.T. Lab, hyper-local menus in the S.A.L.T. Kitchen restaurant–both of which parallel the cuisine of the destinations the ships visit–and shore excursions with local experts and chefs to regional restaurants, markets, bakeries and back kitchens.

“The foodies sign up for the classes, go on the excursions and try to be in the kitchen as much as possible,” Tonet says. “And this is truly regional–the program changes every day. We’ve already adapted it to over 60 countries around the world on three continents.”

WORDS & PHOTOS BY DOUG WALLACE

Second Cook Shashi making char grilled mushrooms anticucho

S.A.L.T. was developed by its global director, Adam Sachs, former editor of Saveur magazine. He seeks out new experiences in places Silversea ships will visit, finding the local people behind the culinary scene, building an international network of food ambassadors and friends, chefs and cookbook authors.

“We take a kind of narrative approach,” Sachs says. “How do we get into this environment in a way that feels new? Who can tell the story? What are the scenes? I call on people to help determine what we should be discovering. What does the tour look like? And when we bring it on board, what does the [cooking] class look like? We go beyond the recipes to get context, to have a history of why we’re talking about a particular dish.”

BRINGING THE TASTE OF THE DESTINATION ON BOARD

Situated in the S.A.L.T. Lab test kitchen where cooking classes are held during the day, the new Chef’s Table is an intimate and interactive experience for no more than 18 people. I do my best not to eat anything for several hours beforehand, because I know I’m going to need room for all of this amazing food.

Sous Chef German Sanchez introduces each of the dishes, denoting the background and his kitchen’s more modern interpretation, before explaining absolutely every single ingredient, spice and flower petal.

The first dish sets the innovative tone–white fish sashimi served with a scotch bonnet sorbet. A pre-Colombian-era meat dish is instead created with grilled mushrooms. An elevated take on a working man’s lunch is followed by slow-cooked pork belly, then charred octopus, each accompanied by ingredients that tie back to the culinary heritage of the Caribbean and parts farther south: dehydrated plantains, candied hibiscus, ají picante, green pumpkinseed sauce (which dates back 500 years) and a wild root sauce of tucupi, which can apparently be toxic when raw. There is always room for dessert, of course. Caju fruit sorbet with cashew quinoa cookies is followed by a lucuma fruit flan with spiced dark chocolate.

Chef Sanchez’s fun anecdotes round out each plate, and the three hours fly by in a flash. It has felt like a live cooking demo with some solid socializing thrown in.

“A lot of work goes on behind the scenes to come up with all the recipes, menus, classes, different wines and spirits,” Tonet says. “But the result is that we deliver on the authenticity of the different destinations wherever you are in the world. You taste the original ingredients and interact with the chef—it’s a very convivial situation. The wine, of course, helps!”

Tetela, Oaxaca cheese, smoky corn and salsa macha—a take on the working man’s lunch

The space is a cooking class during the day, here with guest

Chef Rawlston Williams

Duck breast and tucupi jus with greens

The Silver Nova culinary programs use food to connect guests to the destination

In Japan, Cuisine is Raised to an Art Form

Food and theatre combine to create an unforgettable culinary experience like no other

Walking through the doors at Ao no Ya, an Awaji Island restaurant in Japan, is like arriving at a small theatre with a performance already underway. A kitchen counter runs like a stage the width of the restaurant where two chefs carve thin slices of fish, palm sushi portions and fry tempura bites. They pause to greet our group of five Canadians with a smile and a formal Japanese bow. We climb the steeply tiered dining boxes to the top row. Our view is down over the heads of other diners focused on their sushi sets, the chefs’ performance, or the view through the floor-toceiling windows of freighters inching along the horizon of the Harima Nada Sea towards Osaka.

When a waiter in a smart white shirt buttoned to the neck places a sushi set before me with a bow, I’m faced with the inevitable—destroying a culinary work of art by devouring it. A single, sunny marigold adorns ten slices of fish and paper thin ginger arranged like an orchid. Looking more closely, one sushi piece is actually a bundle of tiny, translucent whitebait fish arranged on a ball of sticky rice, their dozens of eyes staring back at me. Cups of light tea and a bowl of dark miso soup flavoured with a handful of fingernail-sized cockles contrasts with the cold sushi.

Ao no Ya is one fourh of Seikaiha, a coastal plaza with two restaurants, a space for live theatre and a vintage sake shop called Koshu no Ya. Here, we learn that sake is usually consumed freshly brewed, within a year of bottling. It reminds me of a bright, crisp white wine, but it’s brewed from special rice water, yeast and a fungus called koji. When sake is aged, it’s called koshu, and the vintages here are aged at least ten years in wooden barrels from over 100 breweries across Japan. Koshu is often blended to achieve nuanced flavours and colours.

The clerk pours samples of straw, golden and bronze koshu into thimble glasses. “Depending on the temperature and how long the sake is left, the colour profile changes,” says Byron Russel. “Generally, the longer it brews, the darker it gets. The flavour can get quite syrupy.” We’re offered samples of Inishie No. 2, a lightly coloured blend of 1997, 2007 and 2009 vintages. Sipping, I find it as complex as any whiskey with warm aromas of vanilla and a soft caramel finish.

WORDS & PHOTOS BY DARCY RHYNO

Ao no Ya, a theatre of a restaurant on Awaji Island

Chef at Ao no Ya, Awaji Island, preparing sushi Sushi set at Ao no Ya, on Awaji Island

Russel is a public relations manager with Pasona Group, a company working to revitalize this region of Japan by building attractions. At Nijigen no Mori, a small theme park dedicated to Japanese anime, we zipline into the mouth of Godzilla and tour the actual movie set populated with miniature monsters. Pasona also operates a Hello Kitty theatre restaurant, and at Zenbo Seinei, we’re led in a meditation experience at the architectural wonder that is an ultra modern Zen Buddhism retreat. The restaurants, sake shop and theatre at Seikaiha is, according to Russel, “based on the theme of performance and feast.”

The performance of cuisine is not limited to Awaji Island. On Shikoku Island immediately south of Awaji, we settle into the renowned hot springs at Hotel Kazurabashi where a little cable car cranks me up to an open air bath or onsen. After a thorough sit-down scrub, I ease myself into the stone pool and soak au naturel in the naturally heated mineral waters, lean back and admire the stars over the silhouettes of the steep, forested mountains surrounding the Iya River Valley. Later, a dinner featuring traditional Iya cuisine, begins with an introduction by the hotel’s okamisan or landlady.

“We are very happy to have you here today,” she begins. “To welcome you, I would like to sing a local folk song. The name of the song is “Iya no Hoshiki bushi.” It’s a working song. It’s sung when women used millstone to mash malts or soba back in the day. I hope you like it.”

In her songbird voice, she serenades us with her slow, simple Iya song. Seated cross-legged on cushions around the table, comfortable in our kimonos, there’s just time to applaud our appreciation before the first courses of an elaborate meal are served on colourful ceramic dishes, a performance in itself.

“Your meal tonight is prepared with lots of fresh vegetables and local hospitality,” says our okami-san hostess. “Please enjoy your stay.”

I’ll never forget the local fish: sashimi of amago trout and konnyaku (a root vegetable), fish grilled on a skewer, candied fish with Japanese royal fern and knotweed, grilled eel with cucumber, sweet fish simmered in oil. Accompanying dishes stand out like sweet potato simmered with lemon, shiitake mushroom in a delicate broth, a buckwheat dumpling with tofu and konnyaku and yuzu-orange miso paste, grilled umami-rich awaodori chicken, and savoury custard with matsutake mushrooms.

In the days that follow, we’re treated to a performance at Awa Ningyo Joruri, a traditional Japanese theatre practicing bunraku puppetry so important to the Tokushima region and the world, it was inscribed into the Unesco List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2008. A puppet’s elaborate movements and facial expressions are animated by three highly trained, black robed puppet masters or ningyōzukai. Seated stage right, the chanter or tayū and the musician playing a shamisen—a three-stringed banjo-like instrument plucked with a small wooden paddle—provide the live soundtrack for the performance.

At Uokane, a century-old fish shop in the Tosa region near Kochi, one final culinary performance by an unassuming master is underway. Tosa has its own traditional cuisine built upon fresh fish from the Pacific and the Niyodo River—some swim in tanks next to the restaurant. Chef Hiroya Okazaki, who honed his skills in Kyoto, is busy behind the counter. We’re propped on stools a handshake away, watching him grill fish, prepare miso soup, pour tea and complete preparations for the presentation of his lunchtime, autumn-themed bento box. Okazaki’s is an interactive theatre. He shows us some of his art supplies—miso paste, tofu sponge—and offers sips of his soup stock.

When I open the black lacquered box before me, I discover yet another culinary work of art. A delicate tempura fried gingko leaf is balanced over three edamame beans and a square of fried tofu made of sesame rather than soy. A thin scrambled egg rolled into a tidy scroll contrasts a tiny ceramic bowl containing two halves of a single muscat grape dabbed with a creamy paste. A finger of roasted pumpkin poses beside a fat shrimp. It’s such a personalized presentation, Okazaki’s take on the bento box demonstrates a rare virtuosity the equivalent of a fine haiku poem.

Okazaki and his assistant follow us outside. He offers me his business card presented with a touch of ceremony—in both hands with a lingering bow. As we drive away, they wave enthusiastically from the sidewalk, like finely tuned actors taking their curtain call, until we’re out of sight.

Grilled eel with cucumber, part of the meal at Hotel Kazurabashi on Shikoku Island

Miso soup and sushi set at Ao no Ya, Awaji Island

Chef Hiroya Okazaki grilling fish at Uokane, his restaurant on Shikoku Island,

Chef Hiroya Okazaki’s bento box at Uokane, his restaurant on Shikoku Island

Sifnos—A Small Island With a Big Foodie Reputation

Culinary traditions run deep—and bring people together—in this foodie-focused area in the Western Cyclades

By Diana Ballon

It’s a balmy Saturday night in the village of Artemonas on the small Greek island of Sifnos in the Western Cyclades. This evening people are singing and dancing in the street, a traditional Greek fusion band is playing and two women are being interviewed on stage about how to cook okra bread—speaking with such passion and large hand gestures that I forget I don’t understand Greek. People swarm around two long tables in the central square as women proudly dole out samples of homecooked delicacies from their islands. There’s everything from a moist, not overly sweet watermelon pie, or karpouzopita, from Milos; a proteinfilled fava bean spread from the island of Schinoussa; loukoumades or deep-fried honey-drenched dough

balls from Oropos; and a minerally Assyrtiko wine from Santorini.

The occasion? It’s the annual Cycladic Gastronomy Festival “Nikolaos Tselementes,” honouring the cultural and culinary traditions of the Cycladic Islands, which form a circle of about 24 islands in the Aegean Sea southeast of mainland Greece.

The festival is named after celebrity chef Nikolaos Tselementes who was born on Sifnos and wrote the definitive Hellenic cookbook, the Greek version of America’s The Joy of Cooking, that came out in full edition in 1932, and was the first cookbook in Greece.

images by Diana Ballon except

Gyro, a classic when hungry

“It went to every single home in the country,” says a volunteer at the festival.

Sifnos Events guide and planner Ronia Anastasiadou, who leads us in a home-cooking experience from her own kitchen on Sifnos, was actually one of the festival’s founders. As she explains, the festival was developed as a way to bring islanders close together when they can’t travel easily between the islands, while focusing on food as something they share. It was also to honour Tselementes.

“It was through this chef and other local cooks and chefs who worked in Athens or other countries, that Sifnos got its reputation as a food destination. People eventually learnt, if you want a good chef, find a Sifnian. If you want a good catering service, find a Sifnian. It was part of what put the small island of Sifnos on the map as a foodie destination.”

Proving the idea that Greek cooking is both delicious and simple, Ronia leads us through a cooking experience, which includes chopping ingredients for tzatziki, rolling ground veal into meatballs and roasting vegetables for an eggplant salad.

Other traditional island dishes involve soaking legumes or stewing meats; all things that aren’t necessarily labour intense, but require patience and time. These include Sifnos’s signature chickpea soup, or revithia; along with mastelo, a lamb dish cooked slowly with wine and dill in a clay pot until it is tender and falling off the bone. While Sifnians make mastelo at Easter time, it’s available at restaurants and taverns all year round.

And with more cheese being eaten per capita in Greece than any other European country, you can expect far more than the typical feta. On Sifnos, manoura is made with sheep and goat’s milk, preserved in wine and formed into rounds without requiring any refrigeration. Another is myzithra, which is soft and rich and often used in salads.

In Ronia’s kitchen, our cooking experience ends with dinner. Our plates laden, we open a bottle of rosé and sit around the kitchen table to enjoy hearty zucchini and tomato fritters, along with the fruits of our labours, served on the traditional earthenware for which Sifnos is so famous.

Like so much of Greek cooking, it’s the fresh ingredients and the judicious use of herbs and olive oil, that allow the food to speak for itself, inviting diners to fill the space with lively conversation.

Eggplant salad

Cooking experience

Ronia cooking

Cooking with alligator sausage and wild boar isn’t typically done in Canada.

But in New Orleans, known for its Cajun, Creole and French cuisine, these meats are commonplace and when the city hosted a major culinary competition—the semi-finals for Bocuse d’Or—they were mandatory ingredients for chefs to use in their dishes.

Canada was among the nine teams who competed last June in order to qualify for the grand finale of Bocuse d’Or, known as the “Olympics of Cooking” in Lyon, France in January.

While the team, which included chefs Alex Chen, Joseph Mongillo, Keith Pears and Jack Placko, eventually obtained boar meat from a Quebec producer, they couldn’t get alligator sausage through customs in order to practice during the run up to the semi-finals.

Their solution was travelling to New Orleans a week early to practice cooking with the specialty meat. Teams were also

A TASTE OF

NEW ORLEANS

This southern state is home to a vibrant culinary scene well worth seeking out

required to cook with local crab, shrimp and grits.

This was the first time the United States hosted the Americas semifinals, with winners announced after a nearly six hour battle in front of a panel of international judges and hundreds of spectators watching their every move. The countries competing included the U.S., Canada, Mexico, Chile, Columbia, Argentina, Guatemala, Bolivia and Venezuela.

The extra practice paid off. Canada placed second after the United States, with Mexico taking third. Canada was just 12 points behind the U.S. overall, but beat them by scoring higher in the tasting category.

“I can look at the scores and see we were right up there. We were very close to first place but we’ll take second. We’re very happy about that,” said team coach John Placko, immediately after the win.

He added that the team brought some Canadian staples like maple syrup to add to their dishes, and was thrilled to be the

ultimate winner of the judges’ tastebuds. In the tasting category Canada’s top chefs scored three points higher than the U.S.

“Our main course, our platter, we used mandatory alligator sausage and grits and the wild boar was the main component. We obviously knew we were going to be participating here so we put a little bit of Cajun spicing and we brought maple syrup, maple vinegar, ice wine and some buckwheat and goat cheese to it as well,” said Placko.

WORDS & PHOTOS BY KIM PEMBERTON

The Canadian team of top chefs who won second at the Americas semi-finals of Bocuse d’Or, from left to right, John Placko, Joseph Mongillo, Keith Pears and Alex Chen

New Orleans was the right choice to host the event because of its rich and varied culinary heritage, said Bocuse d’Or events director Florent Suplisson. “Being here in New Orleans is being in a world class gastronomy destination with a rich culture. There are many influences here, from Cajun, Creole, French, Spanish, Afro-American so the gastronomy is very rich,” he added.

The event attracted well-known local chefs, restauranteurs and James Beard winners, like Emeril Lagasse, Susan Spicer, Nina Compton, Alon Shaya and Frank Brigtsen to name a few. All five chefs and their restaurants contribute to why New Orleans was named best food destination in the U.S. in 2023 by Tripadvisor.

At Brigtsen’s Restaurant, housed in a charming cottage, chef Brigtsen has been cooking up southern food since 1986. He makes one of New Orleans’ best gumbos, a traditional Creole soup embodying what southern cooking is all about.

One of the most recently opened restaurants bringing an old world charm as well as southern favourites, is Miss River in the Four Seasons Hotel. The Israel-born but Philadelphia-raised chef Alon Shaya describes the restaurant as “his love letter to Louisiana,” with a menu showcasing local dishes, from blue crab and gumbo to butter-fried beignets.

Meanwhile, one of New Orleans’ most well known chefs, Emeril Lagasse, recently reopened his flagship restaurant Emerils’ in New Orleans’ warehouse district after an extensive renovation. Diners can see chefs at work behind a floor to ceiling glass wall. Lagasse not only provides a fresh take on Creole classics, but brings a refined and elegant approach to Louisiana dining.

Women chefs are also making a name for themselves in New Orleans and among the top of that group is Nina Compton, the first runner-up from Top Chef season 11 and owner of Bywater America Bistro (BABS). Her restaurant exudes a casual energy but don’t be fooled. Her classic dishes with a twist rank as fine dining, southern style. Finally, don’t miss eating at Susan Spicer’s Rosedale Restaurant, a hidden gem serving high quality, southern-focused home cooked meals at affordable prices.

Visit New Orleans for the rich history and eclectic atmosphere— but stay for the excellent food.

BABS’ spaghetti pomodoro

Whipped ricotta tart from New Orleans’ BABS restaurant

Front row seats at Emeril’s, the chef’s new flagship store in New Orleans

Whole roasted branzino from BABS restaurant

A cozy dining spot at Napoleon House

A Global Feast

Tantalize your tastebuds with culinary delights from the west coast of Canada to Europe and beyond

BY SABRINA PIRILLO

The late, great Anthony Bourdain once said, “I think food, culture, people and landscape are all absolutely inseparable. Food is everything we are.” He was right-–food is the best way to get to know somewhere new, no matter where in the world you are. Eating in a new country or even city can gift travellers with a newfound understanding and appreciation of a place and the people in it.

Here are eight destinations featuring restaurants that present fantastic dishes highlighting locality and culture on a plate.

Scotland

Any trip to Scotland means there will be a bounty of restaurants to choose from, especially if you want to eat sustainably. The award-winning Cannonball Restaurant & Bar on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh puts the focus firmly on local, seasonal ingredients sourced directly from small artisan suppliers throughout Scotland–-anything you eat here will be wholly in tune with the land. And at the edge of the Trossachs, an immersive culinary experience awaits at Fodder + Farm. Take a foraging tour and enjoy the freshest ingredients from the regenerative farm grounds, which showcase the best local produce and traditional cooking methods of the region.

Baltimore

Nestled within the Ritz Carlton Residences in Baltimore’s Inner Harbor, Ammoora offers an upscale dining experience highlighting authentic Levantine cuisine. Opened in January 2023, the restaurant captivates with its elegant design complemented by an intimate open-air courtyard. The eastern Mediterranean menu features everything from fattoush and baba ghanouj to other traditional mezze. A post-dinner splurge should be ashta bil asal, a traditional Lebanese dessert made with a combination of cream and syrup, served with ground pistachios, rose petals and Arabic cotton candy.

Nashville

Nashville might be known as a music city, but it also has a fantastic farm-to-table scene. Nowhere is this epitomized better than at The Farm House in downtown Nashville, which serves comforting, southern dishes using locally sourced products from farms all over the Nashville area. The bone-in pork chop with peaches and succotash is a must have. Adele’s, located a short walk from lower Broadway, focuses on fresh, seasonal flavours inspired by California cuisine. The busy kitchen utilizes produce and proteins from local vendors and farms for a true taste of everything Nashville does best.

A perfect bite at Cannonball Restaurant & Bar

Mezze spread at Ammoora

The Farm House pork chop

Portugal

Portugal is known as the land of cod and wine. At Quinta Nova’s Terraçu’s Restaurant, part of Relais & Chateaux, you can enjoy both. With more than two hundred years of history and over 120 hectares of land, chef André Carvalho’s dishes are inspired by the smells and memories of his childhood, blended with the landscape of the Douro Valley. His cod with chickpeas, pepper compote and low temperature egg is exquisite. For something lighter, Lucio, a fish found only in the Douro River, with beet puree and peas, pairs well with a glass of Taboadella Alfrocheiro Reserva.

Memphis

The Chisca opened in 1913 and was the largest hotel in downtown Memphis at the time. Now an upscale apartment community, the property is home to The Lobbyist at Chisca where the menu features local meats and seasonal produce in memorable dishes meant to be shared, like the charred okra with buttermilk crème fraiche, pickled Fresno chiles and garlic, or the carrots with kimchi, kung pow, cilantro and honey, a side that pairs very well with swordfish in coconut broth. The Lobbyist’s curated list of cocktails, wines and spirits is also not to be missed.

Whistler

Craft cocktails are something The Raven Room does very well, but they also excel at highlighting local ingredients in both the drinks and food they serve. Located within the Pan Pacific Village Centre Hotel, The Raven Room’s menu ranges from exceptional salads featuring Whistler-grown vegetables, to pacific scallop ceviche, BC ling cod and Squamish harvested mushroom risotto. Stop by for happy hour between 3 and 5 p.m. for fun small plates like eggplant and feta croquettes or frozen margarita mousse.

Boston

Contessa is where Northern Italianinspired cuisine meets brunch and creative cocktails. Located on the rooftop of the iconic Newbury Boston Hotel, Contessa pays homage to the villas of Northern Italy with elegant, colourful décor and fresh floral arrangements, while bright floor-toceiling windows display sweeping views of Boston’s Back Bay neighbourhood. Some must-try menu items include their vibrant squash carpaccio with arugula, pumpkin seeds and agrodolce, a classic veal Milanese and the decadently creamy ricotta gnudi di pecora.

Vancouver

Located on the R level of the Canada Place Convention Centre, adjacent to the iconic Pan Pacific Hotel in Vancouver, Five Sails has several accolades under its belt and blends fine dining with fantastic views of Vancouver’s waterfront and world class ski hills. The fare here ranges from the freshest local seafood (from scallops to sablefish) to the best quality beef along with creative sides and several vegetable-forward dishes. Five Sails also offers a chef’s tasting menu and afternoon tea. Healthy, fresh and fabulous–-and the views aren’t bad either.

Taboadella Alfrocheiro Reserva

Spicy margarita at The Raven Room

Vibrant squash carpaccio

Succulent swordfish at The Lobbyist

A beautiful meal at Five Sails

A Taste of Fairmont Mayakoba

Discover the many flavours this standout Mexican property has to offer–from traditional to contemporary

The award-winning Fairmont Mayakoba is perennially popular for many reasons–from the outstanding accommodations and gorgeous grounds to the endless activities and staff that seem to anticipate every move.

The sprawling Riviera Maya resort complex has always offered something for everyone–including travellers who put an emphasis on memorable food. With a wide range of distinct culinary offerings, the restaurants at Fairmont Mayakoba cater to even the most discerning palates.

Head to La Laguna for traditional Mexican dishes inspired by Mayan culture, albeit with a contemporary twist, or visit La Cantina for margaritas and traditional antojitos (“Antojitos” are traditional, flavourful street foods that are often enjoyed as snacks or small meals). Brisas highlights Latin American flavours while Gaia puts the focus firmly on ultra-fresh seafood, and if you’re craving classic Italian comfort food make sure to enjoy a meal (or two) at Bassano. If that weren’t enough you can indulge in beachside dining at Fuego where the

woodfired grill brings out the best in every ingredient. KI’ Beach Bar & Korean Grill is a must for dumplings and short ribs and HIX (right in the lobby) is an ideal spot for Japanese cuisine. You also don’t want to miss stylish Tauro Steakhouse that boasts the largest in-house dry aging program in Latin America.

In addition to all of the amazing food on offer, Fairmont Mayakoba also offers several unique food and drink-focused experiences. Some of our favourites include the tequila and mezcal tasting (daily at 5 p.m.), mixology classes (daily at 7 p.m.) and immersive taco-making classes (available upon request).

When you’re not enjoying the multitude of excellent things to eat and drink, there are plenty of memorable things to see and do here, from watersports and nature activities to golf, soothing spa time and (if you’re travelling as a family)–lots of kid-focused fun.

Your Guide to the Best of the Mexican Caribbean

Whatever your interests, there’s something you’ll want to see, do–and eat in this scenic and special region of Mexico

You may not know it, but beyond relaxing resort stays, the Mexican Caribbean is also home to an impressive range of unique experiences. There are over 900 kilometres of coastline, 19 archaeological sites to explore, eight national parks and plenty of opportunities for wildlife viewing, diving, snorkelling and island-hopping. It’s safe to say this vibrant area has something for everyone.

Cancun: The Gateway to a Diverse Region

Cancún will likely be your first introduction to the Mexican Caribbean. Known for its numerous beachfront resorts and beautiful stretches of sand, Cancun is so much more than its accommodation options. There are six golf courses and 10 Bue Flag-certified beaches, as well as many water-based activities for all ages including jet skiing, parasailing and MUSA (Underwater Museum of Art). There are several archeological sites to explore and it’s also worth visiting the Museo Maya de Cancun, housing one of the most significant archeological collections of Mayan culture in all of Mexico.

Best bite: If you can, book a dinner overlooking the expansive (and beautiful) Nichupte Lagoon at one of the many 4-5 diamondrated restaurants in the region.

Cozumel, Holbox and Isla Mujeres: Life on Island Time

If it’s a laid-back pace you’re after, the islands of the Mexican Caribbean are your answer.

Cozumel is the largest island in the region and one of the best areas for scuba diving in the world. It’s also home to several archaeological sites, including San Gervasio, the largest on the island and well worth visiting. Isla Mujeres is an ideal spot to base yourself for fun both in and on the water, from sport fishing

and kayaking to windsurfing and speedboat rides. Holbox, located within the nature reserve of Yum Balam, is home to colouful wooden houses, tranquil beaches and sandy streets best explored on foot or by bicycle.

Best bite: Holbox is well-know for its delicious (and decadent) lobster pizza and there are many restaurants on the island that serve it—think crispy crust, melty cheese and ultra-fresh, perfectly cooked lobster.

Grand Costa Maya and Maya Ka’an:

Culture and Nature

Unite

Playa del Carmen and Costa Mujeres: A Blend of Vibrancy and Tranquility

Once a small fishing village, Playa del Carmen has evolved into a tourist favourite while also maintaining a balance between lively and authentic. Restaurants and accommodations fit a variety of budgets, and activities range from ATV tours through the jungle to visits to crisp, cool cenotes. Costa Mujeres is the newest must-stay spot in the Mexican Caribbean–one known for its luxury all-inclusive resorts (including overwater bungalows). But don’t miss the lush mangroves and serene sandy beaches you’ll have a hard time tearing yourself away from.

Best bite: Tacos made with ultra-fresh local seafood are a culinary claim to fame here, whether you’re grabbing them from a street stall or a fine-dining establishment.

Grand Costa Maya and Maya Ka’an each offer a unique blend of cultural richness and natural beauty. Chetumal is considered the gateway to Grand Costa Maya and is home to scenic lagoon systems, calm water beaches and under-the-radar archeological sites, as well as the must-see Mayan Culture Museum. Maya Ka’an refers to the land of the Mayan people and holds both sacred and ecological importance. It is home to Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve (Sian Ka’an means origin of the sky in the Mayan language), a special spot home to one of the most biodiverse areas in the world.

Best bite: Maya Ka’an is an excellent place to sample several traditional Mayan dishes, including the famous smoky braised pork dish, cochinita pibil.

Tulum and Puerto Morelos: Calm, Cool & Chilled Out

Tulum boasts coastal cliffs, turquoise water and the renowned Mayan archaeological site of the same name (visit early to avoid crowds). The easy-going ambiance often makes visitors want to stay longer than intended–or make return trips. Meanwhile, Puerto Morelos provides a tranquil escape in its own way, being an authentic fishing village with a stylish twist.

Opportunities for outdoor adventure abound, as well as diving and snorkelling the National Reef Park of Puerto Morales, part of the second largest Mesoamerican Reef in the world.

Best bite: In Puerto

Morelos, watch fisherman bring in the daily catch, and then enjoy it on tonight’s menu. If you’re feeling adventurous, catch your own and have it prepared at a local restaurant.

Whether you’re looking for adventure, relaxation, culture, great food or nature, this diverse region provides a wide range of unforgettable experiences.

Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve

Getting To Know The Fives Hotels & Residences

Enhanced Upgrades

Just in time for the busy winter travel season, The Fives Hotels & Residences properties are giving visitors even more to get excited about with some must-see upgrades to the guest experience. These enhancements build on the three pillars of service the brand has always focused on. For starters, already-beautiful rooms will be getting improvements that enhance overall comfort and style.

Foodies take note: Sea Olive restaurant at The Fives Beach Hotel & Residences will be transforming into a trattoria and pizzeria, offering an authentic taste of Italy, while Kiin Rooftop at The Fives Oceanfront Puerto Morelos will undergo a renovation and get a vibrant Mexican menu. This resort will also offer an Omakase experience that will change daily. The Fives Hotels & Residences will also introduce’ before ‘a new in-room dining program which will be delivered in eco-friendly containers. With these changes starting December 2024, The Fives Hotels & Residences redefines the All-Inclusive experience, making each meal a personalized and exclusive event.

When it comes to wellness, guests can look forward to personalized spa packages ranging from one to five days tailored to their individual needs. There will also be treatments inspired by ancestral traditions, as well as a focus on nutrition with plant-based, gluten-free and low-calorie options made even more accessible.

This high-end hotel group is worth getting to know thanks to its commitment to top-notch service and welcoming atmosphere.

The Fives Hotels & Residences have cemented their reputation as a favourite in Mexico’s Riviera Maya, offering a seamless blend of impeccable service and accommodations that redefine comfort and style. These properties have mastered the art of anticipating the needs of their guests, transforming each stay into an unforgettable experience that feels both indulgent and effortlessly refined.

Pillars of Success

The founding pillars that have come to define The Fives Hotels & Residences hotel group encompass their À la Carte All- Inclusive concept that highlights local flavours with a global twist, alongside their spacious All Residence-Style Suites and a soul-soothing Joy & Wellness program that aims to centre the mind and body with a range of holistic experiences. These three pillars are not only about The Fives Beach Hotel & Residences, these pillars and the information we share with you talk about the four hotels in combination.

The Fives Beach Hotel & Residences

A Hotel For Every Type of Traveller

The Fives Hotels & Residences is continually evolving to ensure they have something to offer every discerning traveller. Whether you are looking for boutique style accommodation or a bigger property with endless activities, the same warm and welcoming hospitality awaits at The Fives Beach Hotel & Residences, The Beachfront by The Fives Hotels, The Fives Oceanfront Puerto Morelos or The Fives Downtown Hotel & Residences.

A “Suite” Escape: Where Luxury Meets The Comfort of Home

Families and small groups will love the Residence Style Suites available at The Fives Beach Hotel & Residences, The Fives Oceanfront Puerto Morelos and The Fives Downtown Hotel & Residences. These one, two and threebedroom spaces offer large communal living areas including fully equipped kitchen, living and dining room, while also providing the privacy of separate bedrooms with private terraces. These suites make it easy to feel at home as soon as you check in.

For more information: www.thefiveshotels.com.

The Fives Beach Hotel & Residences The Fives Oceanfront Puerto Morelos

The Fives Beach Hotel & Residences

CRUISING WITH A DIFFERENCE IN FRENCH POLYNESIA

The Aranui 5 delivers stunning scenery and vibrant culture plus a vital lifeline to the region

BY CHRIS RYALL

BEING SURROUNDED BY CALM WATER IN VARIOUS SHADES OF BLUE, FROM TURQUOISE TO AQUAMARINE, ALWAYS CREATES A WELCOME SENSE OF CALM AND HAPPINESS. WHEN I SEE THOSE WATERS, PART OF THE 118 ISLANDS AND ATOLLS OF FRENCH POLYNESIA UP CLOSE, BLISS TAKES OVER MY MIND AND BODY. THIS IS WHAT I FELT ON A RECENT 12DAY MARQUESAS ISLANDS CRUISE THAT DEPARTED FROM TAHITI.

A Different Way to Cruise

Aranui, a Tahiti-based cruise line, offers a variety of cruises with a distinct difference. These journeys are not about how many Las Vegas style entertainment shows and waterslides they can fit on one ship. On the Aranui 5 (a 254 passenger, 103 cabin vessel) there is one large restaurant, three bars, a lounge and lecture room, library, fitness room, small spa, pool and various observation areas across eight passenger decks. But the biggest difference? It also acts as a cargo ship. A huge crane sits prominently by the ship’s

bow surrounded by many containers filled with food, appliances, construction materials, cars and other vital supplies. Aranui has played a pivotal role in providing goods to the entire region, including the distant Marquesas archipelago (one of five archipelagos in French Polynesia). Aranui visits these islands and is the only cruise line to do so.

departs and returns to the island of Tahiti (Papeete cruise terminal).

Excitement on board the Aranui 5 doesn’t revolve around food (as tasty as it is) or entertainment. Instead the focus is on the jawdropping scenery and interaction with locals. The Aranui also picks up and drops off locals going to other islands. It was heartwarming to see families reuniting, and many of the crew have relatives or friends on these islands. In fact, 95 per cent of the 100 plus crew are from French Polynesia. This adds to the authentic and culturally immersive nature of the cruise.

Unforgettable Island Hopping

Throughout the 12-day voyage we visited eight different islands: five Marquesas islands including Fatu Hiva, Hiva Oa, Ua Pou, Ua Huka and Nuku Hiva; and three other islands: Fakarava, Rangiroa and Bora Bora. The cruise

The Marquesas are truly special. Most of the islands have a population of less than 2,000, with colourful and diverse landscapes ranging from craggy mountains and forested countryside to white sandy beaches.

Located more than 1,500 kilometres from Tahiti, the people of Marquesas have developed their own distinct culture and language despite the efforts of early missionaries and explorers from foreign countries to eliminate it. This includes their traditional dances and tattooing. Outsiders also brought deadly diseases which wiped out thousands of Marquesans in the 19th century.

Aranui 5 in Tahuata

Premium suite

Tattoo Culture

While I don’t have any tattoos, I must admit to being impressed with the artistry and how Marquesan society values the artform. Going back centuries, the tiki (a human-like figure often carved from wood or stone) is prominent in tattoos given to both men and women. It represents the everlasting connection between humans and nature. When getting a tattoo, the artist will first learn about the person, what village they’re from, their role in society, their family background and then decide what the tattoo will be–-no run of the mill ink here. It’s also worth noting that traditional tattoos are only done in black ink.

I took a pass on getting a tattoo, but passengers on Aranui 5 can get one while on the ship. Aranui is the only cruise line that has a tattoo artist on board.

Life on Board

Prior to the voyage I was worried I would get bored over 12 days. That never happened. The focus for this cruise itinerary was on cultural interactions and unique excursions. There were opportunities for horseback riding, hiking, kayaking, shopping at local markets, visiting island museums, local band performances and just exploring the islands by foot or 4x4 vehicle. And water lovers have ample chances to snorkel and dive to see the amazing variety of undersea life.

Both in Fakarava and Bora Bora I had the opportunity to see gray reef sharks, black tip sharks, stingrays and a kaleidoscope of coral and other fish. The sharks, most around six to

eight feet long, came within a couple of feet of me but seemed disinterested in this strange looking Canuck. To be in the crystal clear open waters of the Pacific Ocean while surrounded by sharks was an incredible feeling—the adrenalin flowing was at odds with the sense of calm that came over me as the sharks swam by.

Cabin Comfort

Most of the cabins on the Aranui 5 have balconies, including mine. It was a place of solitude where I spent a lot of time being mesmerized by the force of the ocean as waves crashed against the ship. My premium suite provided the space, comfort and amenities of a hotel suite on land. There was a king bed, quality linens, separate living room with sofa, coffee table and chairs, two spacious closets, a roomy bathroom, minifridge, robe and slippers. Yes, I think I’ll stay awhile.

Sailing to islands that most people in the world have never seen and observing how a cruise line provides a vital link to remote island communities is incredible. Aranui truly delivers a cruise with a difference.

Getting There

Air Tahiti Nui flies non-stop from Los Angeles/Seattle to Papeete (Tahiti). Experience the Tahitian spirit before your cruise on modern, fuel efficient aircraft with full meals and entertainment on board. airtahitinui.com/en

Aranui 5 departs from Papeete cruise terminal. For bookings, contact your travel agent or Aranui Cruises. aranui.com/en

Beach in Nuku Hiva

Ua Pou - Bird Dance

Fatu Hiva

Giving a traditional Marquesan tattoo to a cruise passenger

Visit at the Kamuihei

All photos courtesy of Aranui Cruises except page 2 top and middle photos by Chris Ryall

Fredericksburg and Austin: A Dynamic Duo of Texas Destinations

Fredericksburg’s lush scenery and rich German heritage meet Austin’s vibrant music scene and creative energy, offering a glimpse into the diversity of the Lone Star State

BY JESSICA PADYKULA

Having never been to Texas, I wasn’t sure what to expect leading up to my first visit. As I packed, my thoughts turned to cattle farms and sprawling ranches, along with what I had heard was a state-wide affinity for college football. What I found–on a recent trip to see Fredericksburg and Austin–was so much more. It’s safe to say Texas packs multiple surprises around every corner.

Fredericksburg: Where History and Hill Country Come Together

Fredericksburg was founded in 1846 by German immigrants who faced more hardships than you can count during their long journey to settle the region. But that resilience is woven into the city itself having created a palpable passion among locals.

Hats off to Fredericksburg

My time in Fredericksburg starts with something that can only be described as a tried and true Texas experience: Picking out and customizing my very own cowboy hat at the cute and cozy Felt Boutique on Main Street. It was a fun, creative introduction to the state that had me saying, “y’all” almost immediately. While you’re in the area, don’t miss one of the many wine tasting rooms—there are close to 20, each offering a different experience. Becker Vineyards is a great place to start.

Boutique.

Luckenbach Post Office

An Historical Perspective

For a deeper dive into Fredericksburg’s fascinating history, head to the Pioneer Museum. The 3.5-acre site does a great job of showcasing the architecture and artifacts of Fredericksburg’s early German settlers. Our guide, Evelyn Weinheimer, is a direct descendant of these immigrants and she offered an intimate glimpse into the lives of Fredericksburg’s early years. A guided tour provides a good overview, painting a thorough picture of what life would have been like when a now-thriving Fredericksburg was just a fledgling town.

Wine Time

Before my visit I had no idea that Texas was a wine producing state, but what I found were picturesque vineyards and stunning tasting rooms that make Texas Wine Country one of the top wine destinations in the U.S. Grape Creek Vineyards, for example, offers a taste of Tuscany right in the heart of Texas, with 25 acres and over 90 wines in their portfolio. Elegant yet laid back Narrow Path Winery, known for their excellent small-batch wines, was made for long days of lingering over a glass or smooth rosé and postcard-perfect vineyard views.

Austin: A City of Music, Culture, and Creativity

A short drive east brings you to Austin, the Live Music Capital of the World. Known for its vibrant culture and creative energy, Austin offers something for everyone, from eclectic neighbourhoods to fantastic food.

Get Your Bearings

To get a local’s perspective, I recommend taking “The Real Austin Tour” with Austin Detours. Our guide Avery, a local comedian, shared insider tips and gave us a fun, fast-paced tour of the city’s landmarks, plus many bars, restaurants and live music venues that only a true Austinite would know. The two-hour tour flies by and leaves you with a solid understanding of what makes the city so unique.

Live Music Everywhere

Austin lives up to its title with more than 250 live music venues throughout the city representing every type to music you can think of. In a flash or perfect timing, my visit to Austin coincided with the 50th anniversary taping of the iconic Austing City Limits. The energy was electric and I had the once-in-a-lifetime chance to see artists like the Indigo Girls, Lyle Lovett, Billy Strings, Shawn Colvin and many more.

Stellar Stays

Luckenbach:

Where “Everybody’s Somebody”

Established as a trading post in 1849, Luckenbach was once a bustling town that fell into disrepair and was sold to what can only be described as a trio of unique individuals, led by Hondo Crouch who turned the town into a place where his imagination could run wild and live music thrived. Today, this utterly unique outpost is home to a stage featuring local musicians participating in a daily “picker’s circle” wherein talented locals show off their skills on stage. You’ll also find a post office, general store and bar.

Take a Hike

For outdoor enthusiasts, Enchanted Rock State Natural Area is a must. There are close to 18 kilometres of hiking trails of varying levels of difficulty, but the main attraction here is Enchanted Rock, a massive, 425-foot pink granite rock formation rising above the surrounding landscape. I did the part of the scenic Loop Trail, which takes you around the base of the rock and provides a fantastic vantage point for taking in the beauty of Texas Hill Country.

The Great Outdoors

Austin also offers incredible outdoor spaces, such as Lady Bird Lake (ideal for kayaking and paddleboarding) and the Ann & Roy Butler Hike & Bike Trail. These spots provide the perfect place to relax, walk, or bike, all while taking in beautiful views of the city skyline

Fredericksburg and Austin offer some of the best of Texas. Visiting both is an ideal way to experience the full range of what makes this state so special.

Fredericksburg: Hill Country Herb Garden

For a truly charming stay in Fredericksburg, Hill Country Herb Garden offers a peaceful retreat just on the outskirts of town. Accommodations here are comprised of individual cottages, each with their own porch (complete with swing and rocking chairs). Individually decorated, the cottages are warm and inviting and a complementary breakfast is delivered right to your door every morning.

Austin: Four Seasons Hotel Austin

Ideally located right downtown overlooking beautiful Lady Bird Lake, the Four Seasons seamlessly blends comfort and style. Rooms and suites are large and airy and service is impeccable, from the front desk to the housekeeping staff. Don’t miss a meal at Ciclo where big Texas flavours get a subtly Latin twist. The property is also home to a saltwater pool (or skating rink, depending on the season), spa and fitness centre among other top-notch amenities.

Live music in Luckenbach

Grape Creek Vineyards

Pioneer Museum

There’s nothing quite like discovering the last piece of French territory in North America. Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is a well-kept secret located in an archipelago off the coast of Newfoundland. It’s a slice of France right here in North America, and it certainly feels that way. From delectable pastries, food and wine, to a fully French-speaking population and relaxed culture, the vibe is just like any other small town in France. As you arrive on the island of Saint-Pierre, the colourful, picturesque houses by the harbour instantly feel like a postcard moment.

The island is unlike anything I’ve ever seen–it even has its own time zone! They use Euros (although Canadian dollars are accepted), and you even need French adapters for your chargers.

It’s no wonder that a new CBC series, aptly titled Saint-Pierre , was partly filmed here. Created by writer and actor Allan Hawco alongside Robina LordStafford and Perry Chafe (with Hawco and Lord-Stafford as showrunners), the series is a police procedural drama following two detectives (Hawco and French star Josephine Jobert) who are forced to work together. The series also stars James Purefoy, Erika Prevost and JeanMichel Le Gal.

Singing the Praises of Saint-Pierre

This authentic slice of France, right here in North America, is the namesake of a new CBC series–and a must-visit destination close to home

By Marriska Fernandes

I had the opportunity to visit the set while they filmed in SaintPierre and spoke with the cast about how they fell in love with this city of 5,000 people. I also watched the cast and crew as they took over the local airport for filming. They even filmed at the harbour as the sun set and then at the local cemetery for the evening shoot.

Top and middle photos by Marriska Fernandes, bottom photo by Derm Carberry

Josephine Jobert and Allan Hawco

“I think Saint-Pierre picked me,” says Newfoundland native Hawco as he takes a break from filming to speak with me. He had previously visited the island while location scouting as the producer of Son of a Critch and it stuck with him. “I feel like for Newfoundlanders, it’s always been present in our lives, but it’s never really been a focus. Something happened on that scout where it all came together and a few weeks later we were in development. A few weeks after that, Robina was working with me and here we are.”

“We’re on this tiny series of French islands that most North Americans have no idea is here. And I think that makes it stand apart because it really is an interesting, unusual place,” Hawco says. “It is their own existence, and I think that colours our show as much as possible, particularly because both of our characters [his and Jobert’s] are living here and working here and are part of

this fictionalized yet very real community.”

For Hawco, Île-aux-Marins is his favourite place they’ve shot. It’s a small, uninhabited island off the coast of SaintPierre and Miquelon. “The pilot is set on that island and it’s stunning. I loved shooting every inch of Saint-Pierre that we’ve shot so far, but that spot stands out for me.”

Île-aux-Marins also turns out to be my favourite place to visit. The sweeping views of Saint-Pierre, the tiny colourful houses, the silence and serenity that fills you up as you set foot on the unpaved trails; there’s simply nothing like it.

French actress Jobert sees Saint-Pierre as a good mix between NewfoundlandCanadian influence and French culture. Just like Hawco, she too loves the island of Île-aux-Marins and what it has to offer. She admits that Saint-Pierre is very much like smaller French towns and villages–everything is usually closed

between noon and 2 p.m.

For Prevost, it’s the pastries that stand out. Something I can also attest to–Boulangerie-pâtisserie des Graves is one of the best places to grab breakfast while taking in the coastal views.

It’s these gorgeous views that many visitors and locals swear by. Le Gal loved the scenic hiking trails–Vue sur le Grand Colombier and Pointe du Diamant were his two recommendations.

Saint-Pierre is a quirky little place that gives you a taste of France with landscape, culture and cuisine not too far from home. It’s even a character in the titular series, as the cast like to say.

Catch everything this town has to offer in the new series, Saint-Pierre, premiering on CBC and CBC Gem on January 6, 2025.

Top photo by Derm Carberry; middle right photos by Marriska Fernandes

View of Saint-Pierre from Île-aux-Marins

Up, Up and Away!

Exploring Kissimmee beyond theme parks doesn’t mean you can’t have exciting, gravitydefying experiences. Go for a hot air balloon ride with Bob’s Balloons for a bird’s eye view of Kissimmee, Disney World and more. These peaceful balloon rides fly over Orange, Osceola, Lake, and Polk Counties to view wildlife and stunning scenery from above. The early wake-up call is well worth it for the panoramic view of the lakes, wildlife, skylines and the city’s attractions.

Discovering Kissimmee Beyond Disney

This sunny city in Florida is about so much more than its proximity to theme parks

By Charmaine Noronha

Kissimmee might be best known for being conveniently close to a multitude of amusement parks, including the much-loved Walt Disney World Resort complex, but the city offers so much more than that. From hiking and biking to air boating, kayaking, hot-air ballooning and more, the city is home to a bevy of nature-based experiences that feel a world away from any ride or rollercoaster.

Everglades Adventures

While Florida definitely provides theme park-based fun, it also offers plenty of outdoor adventure. Shingle Creek is located at the headwaters of the Everglades, and was recently rated one of the top paddling trails in Florida. Grab a kayak from The Paddling Center at Shingle Creek and make your way along the water, taking in the surrounding beauty. You’re likely to spot birds, turtles and other local wildlife during your ride. The Paddling Center also offers guided ecotours led by nature experts.

Housed in a vibrant nature park, Boggy Creek Airboat Adventures offers a one-hour boat tour that takes you through the unaltered wilderness of the Central Florida Everglades. The airboat, guided by US Coast Guard Certified Master Captains, bounces over wetlands, curving close enough to spot alligators, turtles, birds and more in their natural environment. But the fun doesn’t end there. This 32-acre park is now home to a butterfly farm, native American village with live history presentations, a gator pond, gem mining (at an additional cost) and

Earth Illuminated is an immersive experience celebrating our planet. A walk-through creative art exhibit features more than 40 scenes and art pieces to reflect different aspects of the planet such as the air, land and sea. Hobnob with large-scale butterflies, write a message to fellow patrons on the interactive graffiti walls and take your best selfie among the clouds.

You also have the opportunity to step aboard Starship Regenesis to follow a transmission from the lost starship “Nova-Terra” to learn more about how we interact and connect with the planet. The experience was developed by the production team Blazen Illuminated, a small familyowned and operated business located at the Pointe Orlando. And don’t leave your phones at home since this exhibit was made for Instagram.

Shake It Off

Step back in time with a visit to JoJo’s Shake BAR, an oldschool-meets-newschool diner. With a design and decor that harkens back to the ‘80s/90s (complete with arcade game tables and neon signs), you’ll want to throw on New Kids on the Block for the perfect retro soundtrack. The menu offers everything from honey-fried chicken to unexpectedly delicious salads. And you can’t dine here without indulging in one of their many milkshakes, which even include vegan options.

Lay Your Head Down Here

Kissimmee is well-known as a vacation home haven—in fact it’s officially been crowned as the Vacation Capital of the World. Magical Vacation Homes offer more than 300 uniquely-designed properties close to Orlando’s theme parks, while rental company Jeeves offers a wide selection of private luxury homes that provide travellers with style and convenience. The resort-style homes can have upwards of 12 bedrooms that can house up to 32 people and often come with custom-themed kid’s rooms, bowling alleys, home theatres, gyms and pools. I stayed in a travel/aeronautical-themed house with rooms outfitted with airplane parts, jet pilot uniforms, globes and more!

Columbia Calling

The well-known Columbia Restaurant has been a familyowned and operated establishment for over a century, making it Florida’s oldest restaurant. Spanish-Cuban immigrant, Casimiro Hernandez, Sr., opened the Columbia Saloon, which became the Columbia Restaurant, in 1905. Over nearly 120 years, the original restaurant has expanded to cover an entire city block and it’s now the largest Spanish restaurant in the world.

Head towards Kissimmee for the rides, but stay for the welcoming embrace of everything else it has to offer.

A STAY STEEPED IN HISTORY

Exploring the majestic Cashel Palace in County Tipperary, Ireland

BY DEBRA SMITH

A PLACE OF NOTABLE HOSPITALITY

Unlike most great Irish houses that are reached by winding roads across acres of emerald fields, Cashel Palace sits squarely in the middle of the idyllic, tiny town of Cashel. We almost drove right by the gates. The Palace is located in the shadow of the iconic Rock of Cashel, where St. Patrick converted the King of Ireland to Christianity. The lobby is filled with the kind of chintz covered, feather filled sofas that are hard to resist, especially when the fireplace is crackling and there’s a gentle rain outside. This is Ireland after all. The reception room, where we received a warm welcome, still has its original wood paneling and an impressive curved staircase leads to the second floor.

The Magnier family led the restoration with a goal of retaining as many of the historic elements of the building as possible. They also own the international horse breeding and racing stable Coolmore, and their love of all things equine shows up everywhere in the hotel’s artwork and sculptures. Cashel Palace’s Equine Concierge can arrange everything from exclusive visits to Ballydoyle Racing and Coolmore Stud, to a novice level ride through Thoroughbred Country.

IF THERE ARE TWO WORDS GUARANTEED TO MAKE ANY TRAVELLER’S HEART BEAT FASTER, THEY MUST BE “IRISH CASTLE.” SO MY HEART SKIPPED A BEAT WHEN I WAS INVITED TO VISIT CASHEL PALACE, A FIVE STAR RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX PROPERTY AND THE RECIPIENT OF TWO MICHELIN KEYS. THIS FORMER HOME OF THE ARCHBISHOPS OF THE ROCK OF CASHEL WAS ORIGINALLY BUILT IN 1732. BUT THERE’S MORE TO THE HISTORY OF THIS PALLADIAN MANSION THAT OPENED IN 2022 THAN ITS FORMER LIFE AS A RELIGIOUS RETREAT. THE SOURCE OF THE FIRST FROTHY BREWS MADE BY A MEMBER OF THE GUINNESS FAMILY WAS RECENTLY DISCOVERED ON THE GROUNDS.

ROOMS WITH A VIEW

There are 42 rooms here, including eight suites spread among the Main House, the Garden Wing and the Avenue. Each one is unique and the décor is cream coloured classic throughout, with floral print accessories in shades of blush, sky blue and mint. We also loved the spa which is decidedly ultramodern with outdoor seaweed, mud and salt soaking tubs next to an indoor/ outdoor pool. Breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea are served in the airy Queen Anne Room under lofty ceilings with sparkling chandeliers. Guests can also retreat to the Drawing Room that opens onto 25 acres of gardens, fountains and a superb view of the Rock of Cashel.

A HIDDEN SECRET REVEALED

Guinness isn’t just used as an ingredient for restaurant dishes. When renovations of Cashel Palace were underway, workmen uncovered a stone lined well that had been used to provide water to the house from the 1730’s up until the 1900’s. The water from this well was used by Richard Guiness, along with

hops from the Palace Garden to brew ale for his patron Archbishop Arthur Price. The Archbishop must have approved, since he left £100 to Richard’s son Arthur Guinness. He promptly left for the big city and leased the site of St. James’s Gate Brewery in Dublin in 1759 and Guinness as we know it was born. Guests of Mikey Ryan’s Bar & Kitchen, also overseen by chef Hayes, can see the original well when they pop next door for a pint.

EXCEPTIONAL DINING

“We have an incredible array of products and artisans at Cashel,” says Seamus Redmond, a manager and our guide during our stay. “Cashel Blue Cheese is just up the road and our butcher is literally on our back doorstep. Everything is hyper local, Tipperary-foremost produce that’s hand selected by our chefs.” It’s no wonder that the hotel’s signature restaurant The Bishop’s Buttery, was awarded a Michelin star shortly after it opened. Executive chef Stephen Hayes creates unique tasting menus from Tuesday to Sunday featuring dishes like Irish sea scallops with artichoke, lardon, trumpet mushrooms and black garlic; Wicklow Sika deer with pear, parsnip and chanterelles; and a dessert made with blackberry crémeux, filo, mascarpone and Guinness.

Combine Beach

Life and Rich Culture with an Unforgettable Visit to

Mazatlán

This vibrant and diverse city on Mexico’s west coast offers everything from excellent food to a thriving art scene

Planning a vacation often means having to choose between beach-focused fun or a more culturallyrich experience. But there’s a destination in Mexico that offers both. Mazatlán is Mexico’s second largest coastal city, situated at the foot of the Sierra Madre mountains in the state of Sinaloa and Mexico’s only beach destination with an historic centre. In addition to numerous beautiful stretches of sand and natural attractions, Mazatlán is in a unique position to offer an enticing blend of history and culture.

Getting in the Zone

The city is divided into three distinct zones: the Golden Zone (Zona Dorada) in the north, where most hotels and restaurants are located; Old Mazatlán (Centro Histórico), the historically-rich downtown area; and New Mazatlán (Nuevo Mazatlán), home to many of the newer major resorts as well as two marinas. Getting around is easily done on foot, especially in the historical centre.

You can also rent a bicycle or take an open air pulmonia,a golf cart-like vehicle unique to the area.

The official word for Mazatlán locals is, Mazatlecos, and you’re sure to encounter more than a few during your visit, happy to share stories and offer insight on where to spend your time in the city. in the meantime, read on for some of the best ways to experience Mazatlán

Exploring Centro Histórico

Unlike the Golden Zone where you’ll find the majority of beachfront resorts, Mazatlán’s historic centre offers a more local experience. The area spans 180 blocks and underwent a massive renovation several years ago to revitalize the many 19th century buildings and historic landmarks. Start your exploration at Plaza Machado, a leafy public square surrounded by colourful colonial-era buildings and open-air cafes. In the evening the square really comes to life, with musicians serenading passerby and diners enjoying drinks overlooking the square.

You’ll also want to stop by Angela Peralta Theater, a restored,19th century theater named after the famed Mexican opera singer Angela Peralta. The renowned performance space stages a variety of performances, but you can also tour the theatre to learn more about its history.

In addition to the many art galleries, museums and beautiful buildings in the historic centre, another must-see is Basilica de la Inmaculada Concepción cathedral, with its Gothic arches and 28 stunning stained glass windows.

Art Everywhere

There is a thriving art scene in Mazatlán, beginning with the many galleries located within the historic centre. You can get a sense of all of them during the city’s public art walk, hosted from 4 to 8 p.m. on the first Friday of the month between November and April, and twice a month in December through March. This allows you to meet the artists, whose mediums range from painting and sculpture, to printmaking, mosaics and stained glass.

Another way to explore Mazatlán’s art scene is with a stop at Museo de Arte Mazatlán, which houses an impressive collection of contemporary Mexican art. it’s also well worth keeping your eyes peeled in the historic centre, where you’re likely to come across swaths of colourful street art just waiting to be posted on Instagram or TikTok.

Eclectic street art

Colonial Street

Day Tripping

Depending on how long you’re staying in Mazatlán, there are many options for day trips. El Quelite is only 30 minutes north of Mazatlán and where you’ll find cobblestone streets, colonial architecture and a pretty central square. Homes here, with their red-tiled roofs and vibrant porch gardens, date back to the 19th century. Located about an hour from Mazatlán is Concordia, home to many artisan workshops turning out handcrafted furniture, pottery and jewellery. This is also one of the best places to sample raspado, a popular snow cone-like treat flavoured with fruit juice.

Excellent Accommodations

Your options for where to rest your head in Mazatlán range from beachfront resorts to intimate boutique properties closer to the historic centre. If you’re looking to stay near the beach, El Cid Castilla Beach Hotel in Mazatlán’s Zona Dorada is a great choice. For a different experience, book a room at Casa Lucila right in the historic centre. The boutique property, housed in an historic building, was once a jazz club and restaurant visited by the likes of John Wayne and Ernest Hemingway.

Island Life

Easily accessible from Mazatlán’s Golden Zone are Goat, deer and Bird islands, protected from development and offering the chance to experience some eco-focused fun. A range of tour operators offer day trips to the islands for activities including hiking, swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Of the islands, deer island (Isla de Venados) is the most visited but does have some secluded beaches. Bird island (Isla de Pajaros) is known for the array of bird species found there making it a great spot for birdwatching. Goat island (Isla de Chivos) is the least visited, but transportation can be arranged.

El Quelite

Photo courtesy Playa Mazatlan Beach Hotel

Eating Local

It’s not hard to eat like a local in Mazatlán. Foodies will want to make a beeline for Pino Suarez Municipal Market (also known as the central Market) in the historic district and filled with hundreds of stalls selling local fruits and vegetables, fresh herbs, fish, meat, spices and much more. The best part about the market is that it’s just as popular with locals as it is with visitors. When you get hungry (which you will from gazing at all that food), make your way to the restaurants on the market’s upper floor and snack on traditional Mexican dishes.

Mazatlán is also home to a wide variety of street food vendors serving a range of delicious dishes out of tiny carts. These carts are loved by locals, ex-pats and visitors alike looking for a simple, tasty and pocket-friendly meal on the go. Options include everything from ceviche and burritos, to fish-on-a-stick (grilled white fish on a skewer), tamales, tacos and more.

Aguachile de Camarón

Makes 6 appetizer-sized servings

This recipe is a little bit aguachile, a little bit ceviche. Seek out the freshest shrimp possible. Here, the lime juice essentially “cooks” the shrimp–a characteristic of ceviche–but if you’d rather, you can replace raw with lightly poached shrimp instead. Either way, serve in a bowl to capture all the liquid–a component of aguachile–and garnish with cubed avocado, if you’d like. Serve with plenty of tostadas or tortilla chips.

INGREDIENTS

•1 lb. (454 g) sashimi-grade shrimp (21/25), peeled and deveined

•1 tsp (5 mL) coarse sea salt

•2/3 cup (150 mL) fresh lime juice, divided

•1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil

•2 serrano chilies, chopped

•1 jalapeño pepper, chopped

•1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped cilantro leaves

•Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

•1-1/2 cups (375 mL) diced English cucumber

•1/2 cup (125 mL) thinly sliced red onion

•1/4 cup (60 mL) diced radishes

How To Get There?

If you’re looking for a relaxing vacation that offers more than just the chance to sit on the sand, put Mazatlán on your mustvisit list.

KENT

DIRECTIONS

•Split shrimp in half lengthwise. Toss in coarse salt and 1/4 cup (60 mL) lime juice; spread shrimp out in a glass or other nonmetallic casserole dish. Cover and let stand for 20 minutes.

•Meanwhile, in a blender, add remaining lime juice, 1/4 cup (60 mL) water, olive oil, serrano chilies, jalapeño and cilantro. Blend until smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste.

•Pour chili-lime mixture over shrimp, tossing to coat. Toss again with cucumber, onion and radish. Serve in bowls garnished with more cilantro leaves.

WestJet offers direct flights to Mazatlan from Calgary, Edmonton, Kelowna and Vancouver with connecting flights across Canada. Sunwing offers direct flights from Toronto, Montreal, Winnipeg, Edmonton, Saskatoon, Calgary and Vancouver.

RECIPE BY ALISON