Madrid
Palladium Madrid
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P uerta del Sol, Cathedral, and Plaza de España
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Palladium guides
Madrid
Madrid never disappoints. Historical and monumental, it’s filled with charms to delight first-time travelers. Everchanging and avant-garde, it always has something up its sleeve for repeat visitors. Traditional and cool, it retains its old-time character in its everyday neighborhoods. Friendly and cosmopolitan, it welcomes anyone who chooses to explore it with open arms. And, of course, vibrant and daring, it’s one of those cities where there’s always time to dance carefree in a trendy nightclub, grab a drink at an open bar to toast the future, or experience moments that will become the memories of tomorrow.
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Palladium guides
Madrid
1. Madrid is a city of fiestas, from San Isidro to La Paloma. It’s still common to see Madrileños dressed in traditional chulapo costume and even dancing the chotis. 2. The Casa de Campo is the largest public park in the city. Its 1,535 hectares (3,793 acres) include a large lake, trails, a cable car, restaurants with outdoor areas, and an amusement park. 3. Don Quixote was printed in Madrid, on a printing press that you can still visit at the Sociedad Cervantina in the Barrio de las Letras neighborhood. 4. The tradition of eating 12 grapes on December 31 dates back to 1909, when farmers from the Levante region had a production surplus that they distributed among citizens to be eaten on New Year’s Eve. 5. The Cuatro Torres Business Area skyscrapers are the tallest buildings in Madrid; each tower stretches over 200 meters (650 feet) high.
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DID YOU KNOW…? Some 3.2 million people live in Madrid.
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The city is divided into
21 districts and
131 neighborhoods. The Rastro street market has been held for more than 250 years, and every Sunday it features more than
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Madrid is home to the oldest active restaurant in the world: Casa Botín, which opened in 1725.
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The Templo de Debod is an authentic Egyptian temple dating from the 2nd century BC. The Egyptian government gifted it to Madrid, where it was rebuilt and inaugurated in 1972.
Palladium guides
Madrid
The essential triangle:
Puerta del Sol, Cathedral, and Plaza de España T
he most monumentpacked part of Madrid, where you’ll find almost all the ‘must-sees’ of your trip, is the central, bustling area where novelty comes as standard. Described this way, it sounds immense, but nothing could be further from the truth. This area is manageable and largely pedestrianized. Exploring it on foot is a pleasant way of getting a sense of a part of the city where tourism reigns, but where you can always find corners from Madrid’s Habsburg era that have stayed authentic, resisting the passage of time, and the uniformity of globalization.
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Palladium guides
Madrid Puerta del Sol, Cathedral, and Plaza de España
See & Do PLAZA DE ESPAÑA In this 70,000-square-meter (750,000-square-foot) plaza, pedestrians rule. Here you’ll find more than a thousand trees, bike lanes, parks, the monument honoring Cervantes, and easy access to the Templo de Debod, which offers one of the best sunsets in Madrid. STROLL ALONG GRAN VÍA This is the street that captures the pulse of the city. Its sidewalks are home to stores, theaters and restaurants, while the tops of the buildings boast hidden sculptures. Don’t miss a musical. Some call it Madrid’s Broadway.
and arcaded square is a delight of balconies, cobblestone floors, and historic buildings, such as the Casa de la Panadería. The equestrian statue that presides over it is of Philip III. At one end you’ll find the Arco de Cuchilleros (Knifemakers’ Arch).
PUERTA DEL SOL The heart of Madrid and the place where you’ll find many of the city’s must-sees, including the statue of the Oso y el Madroño (the Bear and the Strawberry Tree), the Kilometer Zero plaque, from which all distances in Spain are measured, the Casa de Correos clock, which helps ring in the New Year every December 31, and the legendary Tío Pepe sign.
TEATRO REAL Named the Best Opera House in the World in 2021, it also features dance, flamenco, concerts, and recitals known for their sensitivity and excellence. You can learn about the building and its history on one of its tours. Plaza de Isabel II, s/n, 28013. 900 24 48 48
PLAZA MAYOR Located in the Madrid de los Austrias neighborhood, this pedestrianized
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ROYAL PALACE This superb and majestic building dates from the middle of the 18th century. Today, it is the official
residence of the Spanish king and queen, although they do not reside here, and it is open to visitors. Highlights include the Throne Room, the Royal Kitchen, and the Main Staircase. On the first Wednesday of each month, you can also witness the solemn changing of the Royal Guard. Calle de Bailén, s/n, 28013 ALMUDENA CATHEDRAL The history of its construction dates back more years than the Cathedral itself, which was completed in 1993. Its robust and forceful outline will surprise visitors more used to seeing such buildings in a Gothic style. It has a crypt and a museum, from which you can access the dome, which offers stunningly beautiful views. Calle de Bailén, 10, 28013. 91 542 22 00
CATCH A CONCERT AT CAFÉ BERLIN A legendary Madrid nightlife spot, this is the place to listen to live music of all genres, but especially jazz and flamenco. After the concert, the dance floor opens up. Calle Costanilla de los Ángeles, 20, 28013. 91 559 74 29 SEE A FLAMENCO SHOW One of the capital’s most famous tablaos, Las Carboneras, is located close to Plaza Mayor. Singers and dancers representing the best of modern flamenco have performed on its stage. Calle Conde de Miranda, 1, 28005. 91 542 86 77 Palladium guides
Puerta del Sol, Cathedral, and Plaza de España
Eat & Drink SAN MIGUEL MARKET The Mercado de San Miguel transformed from a traditional to a gourmet market in 2009, becoming the first of its kind in the city. With more than 30 stalls, it offers a selection of great foods to enjoy on site, with some dishes even created by renowned chefs. Plaza de San Miguel, s/n, 28005. 91 542 49 36 BAR POSTAS One of Madrid’s classic bars, complete with a metal countertop and professional waiters. Its specialty is its calamari sandwiches – the reason the place is always full. Make sure to order one with a cold beer. Calle de Postas, 13, 28012. 91 522 13 24
homemade products, from cakes and candies, to palmeras de chocolate (chocolate-covered pastries), cream puffs, and millefeuilles... If you are looking for its specialties, ask for the truffles and the crunchy almond tejas cookies. Puerta del Sol, 8, 28013. 91 521 12 01 CAFÉ DE ORIENTE Before it was a café, this was a convent and a printshop. Inside, the vaulted halls and tables speak of past gatherings. Outside, the terrace is worth a stop at any time of day to enjoy a drink and soak up the view of the Royal Palace. Plaza de Oriente, 2, 28013. 91 541 39 74 LA BOLA The cocido madrileño (Madrid stew) at this tavern is one of the most famous in the city. It’s been making it since 1870, and still uses the same method: quality raw ingredients, a slow fire, and individual pots. Calle de la Bola, 5, 28013. 91 547 69 30
MUSEO DEL JAMÓN A temple for lovers of all things cured pork. Step in, grab a seat at the bar, and start with a plate of jamón. Calle Mayor, 7, 28012. 915 31 45 50
CASA LABRA This century-old tavern offers an exceptional menu, but the cod croquettes are the absolute stars – and the reason the line stretches out the door. Calle de Tetuán, 12, 28013. 915 31 06 16
PASTELERÍA LA MALLORQUINA Opened in 1894, this bakery offers a varied selection of delicious
CASA BOTÍN Casa Botín first began serving in 1725 and hasn’t stopped since, earning it a
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place in the book of Guinness World Records as the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the world. The specialty? Suckling pig and roast lamb. Calle Cuchilleros, 17, 28005. 91 366 42 17 RESTAURANTE LHARDY Opened in 1839, Lhardy serves an unforgettable cocido, while the Wellington sirloin is the star dish. There’s also a store where you can buy gourmet products. On cold days, order its famous consommé. Carrera de S. Jerónimo, 8, 28014. 91 521 33 85 Palladium guides
Madrid Puerta del Sol, Cathedral, and Plaza de España
Shop CALLES ARENAL AND PRECIADOS The big national and international brands have stores on these two streets, which both lead to the Puerta del Sol. A must-visit for shopping in the city. LA MISTRAL A modern bookstore with a charming antique storefront – one of those beautiful ones with a long history. It specializes in fiction, and has a small stage that hosts author events. Aurora, the friendly resident dog, never refuses a pat on the head. Travesía del Arenal, 2, 28013. 91 444 19 61 DOÑA MANOLITA The most famous lottery seller in Spain began trading in 1904, and usually sells some of the big prizewinning tickets each year. You’ll often see long lines outside the door, especially during the run-up to the big Christmas lottery draw. Calle del Carmen, 22, 28013. 91 522 76 39 GALERÍA CANALEJAS The former Palacio de la Equitativa is now a shopping mall that brings
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together some of the world’s most prestigious luxury brands. The Food Hall offers a range of international cuisine, much of it created by Michelin-starred chefs. Plaza de Canalejas, 1, 28014. 91 108 56 06 CASA DE DIEGO This place has been manufacturing and selling fans for more than 150 years, making it the perfect store to find an authentic artisanal souvenir. All made by hand, each fan is a unique product. Puerta del Sol, 12, 28013. 91 522 66 43 CAPAS SESEÑA The Seseña family began selling handmade capes in 1901. Along with the traditional classic Spanish design, they have also introduced new models in keeping with modern times. Calle de la Cruz, 23, 28012. 91 531 68 40 Palladium guides
Madrid
Puerta del Sol, Cathedral, and Plaza de España 1
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10. San Miguel Market 11. Bar Postas 12. Museo del Jamón 13. Pastelería La Mallorquina 14. Café de Oriente 15. La Bola 16. Casa Labra 17. Casa Botín 18. Restaurante L’hardy
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Puerta del Sol, Cathedral, and Plaza de España
Spotlight
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lthough these sweet treats are made throughout the year, tradition calls for them to be enjoyed at Christmas, on an evening stroll through the city center to admire the lights or on the way home on January 1 after dancing in the New Year. Many chocolate shops prepare them, but San Ginés is particularly famous. You’ll find it in the passageway of the same name, under an arch that gives it an air of mystery. It served its first churros in 1894 and its thick and tasty hot chocolate is its own recipe. Going inside is like stepping back into the 19th century, with its marble-topped tables, tiles on the counter, and large mirrors.
Chocolate and churros
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Palladium guides
Atocha Gateway to a World Heritage Site
Madrid
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ome people make the mistake of only arriving at the last minute and treating Atocha as merely a first point of contact with the city. Others don’t pay it enough attention, unaware that it’s the perfect starting point for visiting Madrid’s art triangle, formed by the Prado, Thyssen and Reina Sofía museums. Atocha has alway been interesting, but it’s even more so since it was declared a World Heritage Site.
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Palladium guides
Madrid
Atocha
See & Do
ATOCHA STATION Trains have been arriving and departing here since 1851, although its current appearance is the product of later redevelopment works, such as the one completed in 1992 that divided it into two stations: the new and the old. The latter features a tropical garden containing more than 400 plant species. Glorieta del Emperador Carlos V, s/n 28045. 91 243 23 43 STROLL THROUGH A WORLD HERITAGE SITE The Spanish capital was without a Unesco World Heritage Site until 2021, when the ‘Landscape of Light’, which comprises the Jerónimos neighborhood, the Retiro Park and the Paseo del Prado, was granted the distinction. Here, you can enjoy a tree-lined route dotted with fountains and palaces, and three of the world’s most exceptional art galleries. PRADO MUSEUM In 2022, the National Cultural Observatory named the Prado Museum the institution with the best cultural activities in Spain. There were plenty of reasons to do so,
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considering that the art gallery is not just home to iconic works such as Las Meninas, The Garden of Earthly Delights and The Third of May 1808, but also hosts workshops, events and temporary exhibitions. Paseo del Prado s/n 28014. 913 30 28 00 REINA SOFÍA MUSEUM A meeting point for lovers of modern and contemporary art, the Reina Sofía showcases names such as Dalí, Miró and, of course, Picasso, and his immeasurable Guernica. There are also workshops, screenings, concerts, performances, seminars... all designed to encourage collective reflection. Calle Santa Isabel, 52 28012. 91 774 10 00 ONLY YOU HOTEL ATOCHA Pure urban comfort. On the outside, it’s a four-star hotel located in the area with the most art per square meter in Madrid; on the inside, Only YOU Hotel Atocha holds a casual and eclectic interior design, and services that range from a 50s-style barbershop to the most popular brunch in the city. Pº de la Infanta Isabel, 13, 28014. 914 09 78 76 THYSSEN-BORNEMISZA MUSEUM A journey through European painting, from the Middle Ages to the end of the 20th century, condensed into the more than a thousand works of art in this institution’s collection. With works by geniuses such as Monet, Van Gogh, Rubens, Hopper and Gauguin, it introduces you to
different currents, movements and schools. The museum also includes 180 works from the Carmen Thyssen-Bornemisza collection. Paseo del Prado, 8 28014. 91 791 13 70 RETIRO PARK This 125-hectare (309-acre) park is an oasis of green where you can stroll among gardens, marvel at sculptures and ornamental fountains, admire the Palacio de Velázquez and Palacio de Cristal, row on the boating lake, follow the course of artificial rivers, visit the rose garden, and contemplate the perfect layouts of its flowerbeds. Plaza de la Independencia, 7 28001 Palladium guides
Atocha
Eat & Drink
BAR EL BRILLANTE Home to one of the best calamari sandwiches you’ll taste in Madrid. Enjoying one inside has its charm; enjoying one on the terrace, with a cold beer and views of the Reina Sofía Museum, makes the experience much more traditional. Plaza del Emperador Carlos V, 8, 28012. 91 528 26 30 NUBEL Sitting at one of NuBel’s tables is the perfect way to end a visit to the Reina Sofía Museum. Its kitchen is open from morning until late, and offers an urban menu that can be enjoyed at breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. Museo Reina Sofía. Calle Argumosa, 43 28012. 91 468 46 04 JARDÍN DE ARZÁBAL First-class ingredients, treated with care to enhance texture, flavor, and aroma. A gourmet offering where market produce rules, and a setting, the Sabatini building, that is perfect for enjoying it. Museo Reina Sofía, Edificio Sabatini, Calle de Santa Isabel, 52 28012. 91 528 68 28
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ALABASTER The best of Galician cuisine, but in the center of Madrid. The excellent menu, which features well-prepared fish, is accompanied by a cozy atmosphere in the dining room. Calle de Montalbán, 9 28014. 91 512 11 31 AZOTEA CÍRCULO DE BELLAS ARTES This rooftop restaurant has one of the best views of the city. But don’t let the spectacle steal the limelight from the table, where Mediterranean cuisine is served, with no shortage of international flavors. Be sure to try the cocktails. Calle del Marqués de Casa Riera, 2 28004. 91 530 17 61 FLORIDA PARK What was once one of Madrid’s most legendary nightclubs is now a multi-disciplinary space where you can sample the cuisine of a Michelinstarred chef, admire the sunset from the rooftop, see a show, or try the informal dishes from its kiosks. At the weekend it offers live music, with flamenco the main attraction. Parque de El Retiro. Paseo de Panamá, s/n 28009. 91 827 52 75 Palladium guides
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Spotlight
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rom late May to early June, the Paseo de Coches in the Retiro becomes a festival for book lovers. For around two weeks the Madrid Book Fair opens its doors with up to 400 booths where bookstores, publishers, institutions, and distributors display new releases and classics. There is no shortage of book signings, where authors meet their readers. This literary event, which celebrates its 82nd edition in 2023, is attended by millions of people every year.
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Palladium guides
Madrid
La Latina and Lavapiés How neighborhood life used to be T
he La Latina and Lavapiés neighborhoods are where you find Madrid at its most traditional – a city of innate swagger and locals who wear their parpusa flat caps and Manila shawls during festivals. In these areas, life takes place in narrow, steep and intricate streets that lead to small squares with inviting terraces. You can sense the past in its corralas – multi-story apartment buildings arranged around a central courtyard – while in more recent years multiculturalism has become its hallmark.
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Madrid La Latina and Lavapiés
Ronda de Valencia, 2, 28012. 91 506 21 80
See & Do
BASÍLICA DE SAN FRANCISCO EL GRANDE The grand scale of this basilica makes it hard to miss. The 33-meter (108-feet) diameter dome is one of the largest in Europe, while inside it houses works by masters such as Goya and Zurbarán. Calle Gran Vía de San Francisco, 19 28005 (calle San Buenaventura, 1 - Museo). 91 365 38 00 SAN ISIDRO MUSEUM This is also known as the Museum of the Origins of Madrid, as that’s precisely what you discover when you delve into a collection that starts in prehistoric times and stretches all the way to when Philip II established the Court in the city. Plaza de San Andrés, 2, 28005. 91 366 74 15 LA CASA ENCENDIDA A cultural center that gives special prominence to avant-garde art and innovative artistic expression, and leaves space for debate and reflection through activities. It has a delightful café, and in summer its terrace is a party with film screenings and live music sessions.
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ESCUELAS PÍAS DE SAN FERNANDO This is the current headquarters of the UNED distance-learning university, and was the first school in Madrid back in 1729. The building was bombed during the Civil War (1936– 1939) and the ruins that can still be seen from that time correspond to what was once the church. Calle del Tribulete, 14 28012. 91 467 58 71 CINE DORÉ A beautiful modernist building that houses the screening rooms of the Spanish Film Archive and also hosts meetings, presentations, round tables, and conferences about cinema. There’s a charming bookstore too. Calle de Santa Isabel, 3 28012. 91 369 32 25 SALA EQUIS The place to be in the city. Here you can watch a cult movie, meet artists, enjoy an informal snack, or have a quiet drink. Calle del Duque de Alba, 4 28012 A NIGHT AT MEDIAS PURI Outside this looks like a neighborhood haberdashery, but inside it hides a secret nightclub. With three dance floors, a variety of music, and live shows, it offers the charm of the clandestine and guaranteed fun. Plaza de Tirso de Molina, 1 28012 Palladium guides
La Latina and Lavapiés
Eat & Drink CAVA BAJA This is one of the most famous streets in Madrid for tapas, but it’s just as good a spot for sitting down and enjoying a peaceful evening at a table. You can’t miss the eggs at Casa Lucio, the dishes at Taberna La Concha, which has a variety of gluten-free options, the pizzas at Emma y Julia, or the craft beer at La Osita. EL VIAJERO Located in a 19th-century mansion, this venue has a striking façade that attracts your attention. You can visit at any time of the day, but it is especially popular among locals as a place to enjoy a drink and the views from its rooftop terrace. Plaza de la Cebada, 11, 28005. 91 366 90 64 DELIC A cozy place with a kitchen open all day long that prepares recipes from across the world. It’s particularly known for its baked goods, and you can’t leave without trying the carrot cake. Calle Costanilla de San Andrés, 14 28005 Madrid. 91 364 54 50
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RESTAURANTE CASA AMADEO LOS CARACOLES This restaurant has been serving classic Madrileño tapas such as callos (tripe) and torreznos (pork rinds) since 1942, with a particular focus on snails. There’s a tempting terrace for when the weather is good; but if there’s anything authentic here, it’s the rhythm of the bar. Plaza de Cascorro, 18, 28005. 91 365 94 39 BAR MELO’S After 40 years of hard work, the long-time owners of this venue decided to shut up shop. Then three friends took over and continue to prepare the same must-have zapatillas: humongous ham and cheese sandwiches. Calle del Ave María, 44 28012. CALLE ARGUMOSA On this street you’ll find Asturian, Basque, Mexican, Caribbean and African cuisine, with menus featuring endless lists of tapas and raciones (larger plates). Dishes are generous in quantity and quality, and in spring, the venues set out a sea of terraces on which you can enjoy the Madrid sun. Palladium guides
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creativity, it brings together fun, beautiful, handmade pieces by artists from all over the world. Calle Santa Ana, 6 28005. 91 858 87 36 SIN TARIMA LIBROS Any book lover will be happy to get lost in this bookstore. The extensive and complete collection is arranged on attractive shelves that invite you to browse at your leisure and it also organizes workshops and events. There are stores in both Antón Martín and La Latina. Antón Martín: Calle de la Magdalena, 32 28012. 91 420 37 65 La Latina: Calle de las Maldonadas, 6 28005. 91 429 06 10
CARAMELOS PACO The storefront here is impossible to ignore: bright yellow and full of jelly beans, licorice, lollipops... This legendary candy shop has been sweetening people’s days in Madrid since 1934. Calle de Toledo, 53 - 55, 28005. 91 354 06 70
LOS ARTISTAS DEL BARRIO A store to buy different and original gifts. You’ll find illustrations, serigraphs, collages, jewelry, T-shirts all made by local artists displayed on walls and shelves, giving the place a creative and colorful atmosphere. Calle Embajadores, 7 28012. 91 723 45 05
GALERÍAS PIQUER Take a genuine journey back in time by stepping through a doorway and wandering across a commercial courtyard. If you’re a fan of antiques of any kind, you will find something to like here. Calle Ribera de Curtidores, 29 28005
DISCOVER NEIGHBORHOOD MARKETS In the San Fernando and Antón Martín markets the usual food stalls sit sideby-side with others selling clothes and books, plus restaurants where you’ll find casual dining options and cuisine from all over the world. Mercado de San Fernando: calle de Embajadores, 41 28012. 91 527 25 12. Mercado de Antón Martín: Calle de Santa Isabel, 528012. 91 369 06 20
LA OFICIAL This store sells ceramics by the kilo. Championing originality and
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1. Basílica de San Francisco El Grande 2. San Isidro Museum 3. La Casa Encendida 4. Escuelas Pías de San Fernando 5. Cine Doré 6. Sala Equis 7. Medias Puri
8. Cava Baja 9. Delic 10. Restaurante Casa Amadeo los Caracoles 11. Bar Melo’s 12. Calle Argumosa
13. Galerías Piquer 14. Caramelos Paco 15. Discover neighborhood markets 16. La Oficial 17. Sin Tarima Libros 18. Los Artistas del Barrio Palladium guides
La Latina and Lavapiés
Spotlight
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he most famous open-air flea market in Madrid is held every Sunday between 9am and 3pm, and sees sellers set up more than 3,000 stalls on Calle Ribera de Curtidores and the surrounding streets. The best plan is to arrive early in the morning, so you can take your time and enjoy all the treasures to be found: antiques, paintings, secondhand books, cassettes, vinyl, vintage clothing, stickers, analog cameras… Round off the experience with a glass of vermouth and a snack in one of the area’s many bars.
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Madrid
Barrio de Salamanca Home of the Golden Mile T
he Salamanca neighborhood is synonymous with luxury. Perhaps this is due to the beauty of its buildings, which were begun in the time of Isabel II at the suggestion of the Marquis of Salamanca to house the bourgeoisie and the aristocracy. It also has a lot to do with the distinction and high standard of living these illustrious neighbors brought with them, which has never left the area. And, of course, there’s the appearance of stores in keeping with this level of luxury, which today make the Salamanca neighborhood proud to bring together branches of the most select brands on just a few streets. 22
Palladium guides
Madrid Barrio de Salamanca
See & Do
NATIONAL LIBRARY OF SPAIN This institution is responsible for holding every single book published in Spain. It also houses manuscripts, incunabula, maps, recordings, sheet music... The library museum, its exhibition rooms, and guided tours help explain its hidden treasures. Paseo de Recoletos, 20-22 28071. 91 580 78 00 NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM This institution provides a gateway to antiquity, thanks to its rich collection of Iberian, Greek, Egyptian and Roman pieces and objects. The star exhibit is undoubtedly the Lady of Elche. Calle de Serrano, 13, 28001. 91 577 79 12
LÁZARO GALDIANO MUSEUM José Lázaro Galdiano was, among other things, an art collector. Upon his death, the works he had amassed were donated to the state and can now be visited in the museum that bears his name. There are 4,820 pieces in total, including works by Goya, El Bosco, and Zurbarán. Calle de Serrano, 122 28006. 91 561 60 84
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WATCH SPORTS AND MUSIC AT THE WIZINK CENTER This is the place to watch a Real Madrid or Estudiantes basketball game, as it is the home of both teams. It is also a multipurpose space hosting other shows, especially music concerts. Avenida de Felipe II, s/n 28009. 91 444 99 49 ENJOY A MUSICAL AT THE NUEVO TEATRO ALCALÁ Musicals are the highlight at this theater. Jesus Christ Superstar, Chicago, Annie, Billy Elliot, Grease,
Cabaret and Matilda have all graced the stage of its spectacular main auditorium. Calle de Jorge Juan, 62, 28009. 91 426 47 79 CASA ÁRABE On the outside, this is a neoMudéjar building from the late 19th century. Inside you’ll find the Madrid headquarters of Casa Árabe, which programs activities related to Arab culture. When the weather is good, its terrace is a delight. Calle de Alcalá, 62 28009. 91 563 30 66 BLESS HOTEL MADRID This five-star hotel, housed in a stately historic building, is designed to enjoy the pleasures of life. It all begins with a delicious gastronomic offer, cared for from breakfast to the night cocktails, and includes a menu of wellness services that brings wellbeing to a whole new level. C. de Velázquez, 62, 28001 PUERTA DE ALCALÁ This triumphal arch marks the end of the Barrio de Salamanca, the beginning of the Paseo del Arte, and one of the corners of the Retiro Park. It was commissioned by Charles III and while it is no longer an entrance gate to the city, its monumental character means it’s still one of the most-visited places in Madrid. Plaza de la Independencia, s/n 28001 Palladium guides
Madrid Barrio de Salamanca
Eat & Drink BIBO MADRID BY DANI GARCÍA BiBo Madrid serves Andalusian cuisine, but with Italian, Japanese and Peruvian influences brought by chef Dani García from his travels around the globe. The celebrated menu includes dishes such as oxtail brioche and a foie gras yogurt tapa. It also offers a host of creations made with bluefin tuna from Barbate. Paseo de la Castellana, 52 28046. 91 805 25 56 LA TASQUERÍA If you want to lose your fear of offal, head to this restaurant. Chef Javi Estévez is a master when it comes to preparing and presenting it with a new twist. Calle del Duque de Sesto, 48 28009. 91 451 10 00 STREETXO The boldness and mastery of Dabiz Muñoz comes into focus in this informal restaurant, where Asian street food is the starting point. It doesn’t take reservations, but you can make the wait more pleasurable by sampling the cocktails. Calle de Serrano, 47, 28001 (El Corte Inglés, planta 3)
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BAR LOS TORREZNOS A legendary meeting point for lovers of the hearty snack of torreznos (pork rinds) – it even serves them in sandwiches. Right next to the Wizink Center, it is often full on game days or when there are concerts. Calle de Goya, 88, 28009. 91 401 53 36
LA MEJOR TARTA DE CHOCOLATE DEL MUNDO Born in Portugal, this bakery-café specializing in chocolate cake quickly conquered Madrid. It has two establishments, where you can eat in or buy to take away. It’s the texture that makes the cakes such a delicious treat. Calle de Alcalá, 89, 28009. 91 577 50 08 Palladium guides
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It’s impossible to single out just a handful of stores here. There are so many boutiques lining the sidewalks of this chic neighborhood that you could call it an open-air shopping mall – a luxury one at that. The best way to discover the area is to meander from shop window to shop window, without overlooking the epicenter. The rectangle between Paseo de la Castellana and the streets of Juan Bravo, Príncipe de Vergara and Jorge Juan is known as the Golden Mile, and is famous for its concentration of luxury stores. Names such as Loewe, Dior, Versace, Carolina Herrera, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Hermès and Jimmy Choo are waiting for you on any walk through the area. Clothes, shoes, accessories, makeup, jewelry... If you love shopping, don’t hesitate to set aside a whole day to enjoy them.
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Barrio de Salamanca
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1. National Library of Spain 2. National Archaeological Museum 3. Lázaro Galdiano Museum 4. WiZink Center 5. Nuevo Teatro Alcalá 6. Casa Árabe 7. Puerta de Alcalá 8. Bibo Madrid by Dani García
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9. La Tasquería 10. StreetXO 11. Bar Los Torreznos 12. La Mejor Tarta de Chocolate del Mundo
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Palladium guides
Barrio de Salamanca
Spotlight
on
T
he Plaza de Colón didn’t need anything more to boost its grandeur. But in December 2018, a 12-meter (39-foot) tall white sculpture titled Julia appeared on the pedestal in its southwest corner. This work of genius by Jaume Plensa was only meant to be here for a year but has already been in place for four. For now, the face with closed eyes, which was inspired by a little girl from San Sebastián, is set to stay until the end of 2023. The fact that Julia is closing her eyes doesn’t mean she doesn’t want to take in her surroundings: it has more to do with the artist’s aim of encouraging us to look inside ourselves from time to time. The sculpture is particularly beautiful to see from the top of Calle Génova at sunrise or sunset.
Who is Julia? 27
Palladium guides
Madrid
SalesasA neighborhood apart L
as Salesas is a neighborhood where life is calm, elegant, and sophisticated. A place where the stores have preserved their essence, where the big chains are yet to arrive, and the architecture of the buildings has a style of its own. As if it were above good and evil, Las Salesas is set apart from the constant bustle of the city, the traffic of Calle Génova feels far away, and the hubbub of visitors who throng Alonso Martínez or Chueca does not come this far. A delight for any self-respecting flâneur.
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Palladium guides
Madrid
Salesas
See & Do
SANTA BÁRBARA CHURCH (SALESAS REALES CONVENT) With its stunning façade and majestic staircase, this church is hard to miss. It was once part of the Salesas Convent, whose building now houses the Supreme Court. Calle de Bárbara de Braganza, 1 28004. 91 319 48 11 TEATRO MARÍA GUERRERO Watching a play in this horseshoeshaped room is a delight. And if that isn’t possible, you can still admire the beauty and delicacy of its neoclassical façade. Calle de Tamayo y Baus, 4 28004. 91 310 29 49
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FUNDACIÓN MAPFRE This foundation programs exhibitions that bring art created from the end of the 19th century until after World War II to the public. Around a thousand square meters (11,000 square feet) dedicated to culture housed in a beautiful palace dating from 1884. Paseo de Recoletos, 23 28004. 91 581 61 00 WAX MUSEUM A great museum to go to with children. From Cleopatra and Harry Potter to Angelina Jolie and Cristiano Ronaldo, it’s impossible
not to be surprised seeing these figures up close. Plaza de Colón, 1, 28004. 91 319 93 30 VISIT THE INSTITUTO CERVANTES This institution, dedicated to promoting Spanish language and culture throughout the world, has one of its headquarters in this neighborhood. It is worth a visit to attend one of the exhibitions, talks, workshops and theatrical performances it organizes. Calle de Alcalá, 49 28014. 91 436 76 00 Palladium guides
Madrid
Salesas
Eat & Drink CAFÉ GIJÓN Opened in 1888, this is still the most legendary literary café that Madrid has ever had. While the terrace is pleasant, nothing beats the interior, where the tables are still marble and the walls, if they could talk, would tell you stories of writers such as Ramón del Valle-Inclán, Camilo José Cela, and Benito Pérez Galdós. Paseo de Recoletos, 21 28001. 91 521 54 25 DSPEAK The genius and knowledge of chef Diego Guerrero are behind this restaurant, where dishes are prepared with fresh and seasonal ingredients and classics have a special place on a menu that carefully sidesteps stereotypes. Calle de Fernando VI, 6, 28004. 91 319 54 35
LA DUQUESITA They say this classic patisserie, now run by renowned pastry chef Oriol Balaguer, sells the best palmeras de chocolate (chocolate-covered pastries) in Madrid. Their puff pastry is crunchy and goes perfectly with the slightly bitter chocolate coating. You can buy them to go or enjoy one in the tea room. Calle de Fernando VI, 2, 28004. 91 308 02 31
BARBARA ANN The taste and texture of the eggs Benedict on the brunch menu are hard to forget. As are the cocktails that accompany it and the live music that provides a soundtrack for the atmosphere. Calle de Santa Teresa, 8, 28004. 91 819 55 61
BARRUTIA Y EL 9 A place for traditional home cooking with a bar where you can indulge yourself. We recommend the winning trio of croquettes, Spanish omelet with white and black truffles, and Russian salad. Calle de Santa Teresa, 9, 28004. 913 19 29 46
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ROOTS LAMARCA The healthy option par excellence in the neighborhood. This informal place offers a menu based on smoothies, toasts, arepas, sandwiches and bowls. Natural ingredients, minimal processing, and no refined sugars or flours. Calle de Fernando VI, 10, Local 4, 28004. 91 442 12 29 CELICIOSO BY ONLY YOU What’s on sale here is wellbeing. This beauty center offers a complete menu of massages designed for self-care, authentic relaxation, and disconnection. It also sells Comfort Zone brand products. Calle del Barquillo, 19, 28004. 91 532 28 99 Palladium guides
Madrid
Salesas
Shop SELVARROSA What’s on sale here is wellbeing. This beauty center offers a complete menu of massages designed for self-care, authentic relaxation, and disconnection. It also sells Comfort Zone brand products. Calle de Piamonte, 20, 28004. 606 71 41 00 PONCELET QUESOS CHEESE SHOP This store worships cheese. You can buy it in baskets or packs that include other products such as oils, preserves, jams, and wines. A gourmet refuge that also organizes tastings. Calle de Argensola, 27, 28004. 91 308 02 21 LE LABO FRAGANCES Here you’ll find cult fragrances straight from New York, as well as personal hygiene products and candles. You can also try your hand at creating your own perfume – with a spot of advice – complete with a customized label. Calle de Fernando VI, 2, 28004. 91 032 71 94
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CACAO SAMPAKA Cocoa is a religion in this store, which not only venerates the stuff but also wants to recover the tradition of tasting it. All the products are made by hand and there is no shortage of classics or innovation – check out the spicy dark chocolate bar and the chocolates with American spices. Calle de Orellana, 4, 28004. 91 319 58 40 FANTASTIC COMPANY Fashion conceived as fun, with colorful designs, cheerful and lively prints, simple and practical patterns, and all slightly removed from the trends of the big brands. Calle de Fernando VI, 8, 28004. 91 737 88 63
TASCHEN STORE MADRID What are arguably some of the most beautiful books in the world deserved a space in Madrid to match. Publisher Taschen’s store is located in a former haberdashery that has retained its charming display window, while the interior design creates a distinguished atmosphere. Calle del Barquillo, 30, 28004. 91 603 30 42 DE FLORES Y FLOREROS Handmade dance shoes, with designs that deviate from the conventional and colors and prints that add a daring, fun, and differentiating touch. Over time, it has introduced other types of footwear, including sandals, ankle boots, boots, and clogs. Calle Almirante, 16 28004. 645 95 45 47 Palladium guides
Madrid
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1. Iglesia Santa Bárbara de SantaChurch Bárbara (Convento (Salesas Reales de lasConvent) 2. Teatro Salesas María Reales) Guerrero 2. Fundación 3. Teatro María Mapfre Guerrero 3. Wax 4. Fundación Museum Mapfre 4. Instituto 5. Museo deCervantes Cera 5. Instituto Cervantes
6. Café Gijón 6. Gijón 7. Café DSpeak 7. 8. DSpeak Barbara Ann 8. Ann 9. Barbara La Duquesita 9. Barrutia La Duquesita 10. y el 9 10. y el 9 11. Barrutia Roots Lamarca 11. Lamarca 12. Roots Celicioso by Only YOU 12. Celicioso by Only YOU
13. Selvarrosa 13. 14. Selvarrosa Poncelet Quesos Cheese Shop 14. Quesos Cheese Shop 15. Poncelet Le Labo Fragances 15. Cacao Le LaboSampaka Fragances 16. 16. Fantastic Cacao Sampaka 17. Company 17. Fantástica 18. Compañía TASCHEN Store Madrid 18. TASCHEN Store Madrid 19. De flores y floreros 19. De flores y floreros Palladium guides
Salesas
Spotlight
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f you’re looking to experience Madrid’s nightlife, Las Salesas makes a strategic starting point. Kick off with some tapas, a good dinner and – why not? – a first drink in this area before moving into Chueca. The streets of the city’s LGBTQ+ neighborhood in turn spill over into those of Malasaña, the cradle of the 1980s cultural explosion known as the movida madrileña, giving rise to a good handful of blocks where anything is possible after the sun sets. Legendary venues such as Penta and La Vía Láctea could charge money not to reveal the secrets their walls have seen. Others, such as BarCo, Ochoymedio and Tupperware, have been providing the soundtrack for clubbers on their dance floors for decades. And remember, here the music only stops as a new day dawns.
Madrid nightlife 33
Palladium guides
hideaway Mirador de Alfonso XII Madrid
the
The sight of the Retiro Park boating lake presided over by the imposing sculptural ensemble in honor of Alfonso XII is enough to leave anyone absorbed. So much so, that few discover that at the top of the 20-meter (65-feet) column supporting the equestrian statue of the monarch, just below the horse’s hooves, lies a hidden viewpoint. Nearly 100 steps separate the ground from this small room, which offers probably the best views of the park and this part of the city. It opened its doors in April 2018 but it is only possible to access it at specific times, coinciding with Pasea Madrid, the guided tour program organized by the City Council. Plaza Maestro Villa 28009 (the Retiro’s boating lake) Ticket reservation: https://paseamadrid.reservaspatrimonio.es
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Palladium guides
Madrid
BLESS Hotel Madrid
Only YOU Boutique Hotel Madrid
Only YOU Hotel Atocha
Calle de Velázquez, 62 28001 Madrid Phone: +34 971 92 64 86
Calle Barquillo, 21 28004 Madrid Phone: +34 91 005 22 22
Paseo de la Infanta Isabel, 13 28014 Madrid Phone: +34 910 05 27 46 Shutterstock, iStockphoto
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