Xm spread issuu version moerandgone limpopo 17june2014

AFRICAN IVORY ROUTE

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS JACQUES MARAIS

#moerandgone in Limpopo

The Rainbow Nation’s northernmost province unarguably rates as one of South Africa’s most unexplored tourism destinations.

Jacques Marais set off in one of ISUZU’s toughest bakkies to discover a range of new outdoor adventures along the breathtaking African Ivory Route here in Limpopo.

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XM MAGAZINE JUNE 2014

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Ivory Three thousand kilometres, mostly along rollicking gravel roads and jeep tracks. Ten days of tripping into the rural heart of Limpopo, where a Rain Queen rules amidst dinosaur plants, and where mythical monsters lurk in deep lakes according to local folk lore. Five camps, situated in dramatic locations within the cultural landscape of the incredible African Ivory Route. And one beast of a bakkie to get us there, of course ‌

The concept of the Ivory Route is rooted within the philosophy of the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park Project, with an aim to re-establish age-old migratory routes for key game species found in the province.

As a result, green corridors are created by linking traditional tribal grazing lands, provincial nature reserves and private conservancies.

This holds massive benefit for outdoor enthusiasts from around the world, as we soon found out. Bombing gnarly jeep tracks into the back of beyond took us to destinations that delivered on so many levels. Cultural interaction with communities in touch with their ancient traditions makes for authentic travel of the highest order; Big 5 and free-range safari-style camps beckon both out- and inside the Kruger National Park; the birding, botanical diversity and butterfly hunting will blow your mind; while action junkies are exposed to an untouched range of mountain biking, trail running, hiking, climbing and paddling options.

Bottom line, the African Ivory Route rates as one of the sub-continent’s most valuable, unpolished tourism gems. A visit to their unique range of rustic camps directly contributes to local communities, while enabling you to immerse yourself within an intoxicating cocktail of nature, culture and adventure. Escaping is as easy as logging onto www.africanivoryroute.co.za

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route

“ Three thousand kilometres, mostly along rollicking gravel roads and jeep tracks. Ten days of tripping into the rural heart of Limpopo, where a Rain Queen rules amidst dinosaur plants, and where mythical monsters lurk in deep lakes according to local folk lore. �

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Realm of the

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Rain Queen “ Here, within the confines of the Modjadji Nature Reserve, you’ll find a mountain range bristling with prehistoric cycads towering up to 13m tall”

THE ACTION The realm of the Rain Queen - southern Africa’s only matriarchal monarchy - is a place of jaw-dropping wonder. Here, within the confines of the Modjadji Nature Reserve, you’ll find a mountain range bristling with prehistoric cycads towering up to 13m tall. Encephalartos transvenosus giants - dating back a good 50 million years to a time when brachyosaurs ruled the landscape – teem here within the tribal lands of the Lobedu people and their Rain Queen.

THE SHOT I snuck away from the group as they took a breather along one of Modjadji’s hikes, and grabbed this low-angle shot through a clump of giant encephalartos cycads.

THE SPECS 1/250th sec @ f8; SONY A99-SLT + 16mm Fish-eye; ISO 50; WB Setting (Auto); AE Setting (0); Flash (None); Sepia filter in Adobe Lightroom

MORE INFO www.modjadjinaturereserve.wozaonline.co.za

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THE ACTION

The Holy Forest

Our Isuzu steed negotiates a remote gravel track within the ancestral forests of Fundudzi. It is believed that the spirits of the baVenda forefathers roam here, and this dense patch of primary remnant forest is therefore a sacred spot to villagers in the vicinity of the city of Thohoyandou. The surrounding indigenous woods and Mondi plantations brim with stunning mountain biking, hiking, off-roading and running trails.

THE SHOT I set up remote flash to key-light and back-light the vehicle, and exposed so as to balance this with the low-level natural light within the forest gloom.

THE SPECS 1/30th sec @ f4.5; SONY A99-SLT with 70-400mm zoom lens; ISO 250; WB Setting (Auto); AE Setting (-1); Off-Camera Flash triggered by Phottix Transceivers

MORE INFO www.isuzu.co.za

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Bombing Baleni “ What blew me away completely though was the exceptional mountain biking; high-speed cranking along endless cattle tracks within a green blur of Mopane and buffalo thorn.”

THE ACTION Baleni – the ‘Place of Salt’ – has been declared as a Natural Heritage destination, because of the traditional salt mining activities here. What blew me away completely though was the exceptional mountain biking; high-speed cranking along endless cattle tracks within a green blur of Mopane and buffalo thorn. The birding is off-the-scale, too.

THE SHOT The dense mopane veldt makes for a busy background to a photo, so the only way to try and shoot the trails was by isolating the subject through a narrow depth of field.

THE SPECS 1/800th sec @ 5.6; SONY A99-SLT + 70-400mm lens; ISO 250; WB Setting (Auto); No flash; AE Setting (0)

MORE INFO www.sony.co.za

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Land

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of Legends

“ … you could conceivably lose yourself within these forests for days on end” THE ACTION The tranquillity one finds within the fantastical forests of Fundudzi s reminiscent of momentary scenes from the ‘Lord of the Rings’ trilogy.

Here, shafts of early morning sunlight penetrate pine plantations and emerald canopies, highlighting a natural world brimming with fecund life … you could conceivably lose yourself within these forests for days on end.

THE SHOT I asked Kay to walk amidst the towering pines just after dawn, and used the long zoom to capture her and Grace amidst the repeated pattern of trunks.

THE SPECS 1/400th sec @ f5.6; SONY A99-SLT with 70-400mm zoom; ISO 400; WB Setting (Auto); AE Setting (0); no flash125; WB Setting (Auto); AE Setting (-1); Off-Camera WiFi Flash

MORE INFO wwww.africanivoryroute.co.za

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Blouberg Abyss

THE ACTION The Blouberg Mountains houses the African Ivory Route’s eponymous camp, and I must admit this turned out to be one of my favourite destinations – not only in Limpopo, but in the whole of South Africa. Mind-blowing hiking and trail running, climbing of unmatched quality, superb birding and a dramatic sense of place make it a bucket list destination.

THE SHOT A huge hike onto the cliffs overlooking the camp got us to this rock abyss; to get the photo and the view over the valley beyond, we had to jump the gap … gnarly!

THE SPECS 1/160th sec @ f11; SONY A99-SLT with 16mm fish-eye lens; ISO 50; WB Setting: Sunny; AE Setting (-1); On-camera flash zoomed to 105mm

MORE INFO www.jacquesmarais.co.za

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Into

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“… glittering night skies and tents on stilts set amidst the indigenous trees on the edge of a birding wetland of note.”

THE ACTION

Our final AIR destination is the only safari-tented camp outside a Big 5 park, and what a place Nthubu turned out to be. Verraux eagles cruising the sky, bush buck and impala cavorting alongside us on the MTB ride, glittering night skies and tents on stilts set amidst the indigenous trees on the edge of a birding wetland of note.

THE SHOT This long exposure of the Dining Room and Kitchen Area - shot using my sturdy 3-Legged Thing tripod – blends starlight with fill-in from two remote flash units and a powerful Extreme Lights torch.

THE SPECS 30 sec @ f2.8; SONY A99-SLT with 16mm fish-eye lens; ISO 800; WB Setting (Auto); AE Setting (-1); Remote Wi-Fi flash and fill-in with a LED light source

MORE INFO www.exposuregallery.co.za

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Nthubu

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4xFAR into THE ACTION Although African Ivory Route camps are not situated along hard core 4x4 trails, the rugged nature of the roads – as well as the off-road trails around the camps themselves – makes a good 4x4 vehicle an absolute necessity. If you can get the ISUZU combo of comfort as well as ruggedness, you’re winning all the way.

THE SHOT A viewpoint atop the Nthubu cliffs made for a perfect spot to enjoy a sun-downer while getting some awesome sunset shots to boot.

THE SPECS 1/4 sec @ f2.8; SONY A99-SLT with 16mm fish-eye lens; ISO 800; WB Setting (Auto); AE Setting (-1); Remote Wi-Fi flash

MORE INFO www.africanivoryroute.co.za

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Africa

“ If you can get the ISUZU combo of comfort as well as ruggedness, you’re winning all the way”

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Star-

“ Wander away from the fire’s glow, set up your tripod, and transport yourself into the glittering heavens” THE ACTION The show is not over when the sun sets on the African Ivory Route, as the night skies – especially at Blouberg and Nthubu – make for breathtaking star-gazing. Wander away from the fire’s glow, set up your tripod, and transport yourself into the glittering heavens.

THE SHOT This was taken 50m from the braai boma at Blouberg; I used the beam of a high-powered Extreme Lights Torch to fill in the foreground and shot on long exposure from my 3-Legged Thing tripod.

THE SPECS 30 sec @ f2.8; SONY A99-SLT with 16mm fish-eye lens; ISO 3200; WB Setting (Auto); AE Setting (0); No flash

MORE INFO www.golimpopo.co.za

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-Studded

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AIS AR SM UE CQ JA OT O: PH

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