inclus Magazine

Fashion : Beauty : People : Arts

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HAMAD MAN OF DREAMS

DESENSITISING THE NIPPLE

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inside

The creative issue no.1

The norm...

Editors Letter

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inclus inspo

51

Literature

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Stockists

71

Sparkles

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Open Letter: Narita

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Desensitising the nipple

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Tattooed: corporate to creative

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The eyebrow game

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Man of dreams

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Hamad

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Discover...

Gaze...

Georgia Ursula Ellie Emily

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www.ellure.co.uk

The creative issue no.1 Editors Letter

Ce l e b r a t ing q ui r ks is a mo vemen t in whi c h we n o r m a l i se nat ural beauty in whate ver f or m .

W h e n we s pe ak or thin k of qu irks, we m ea n an y fe at ur e or attribu te which makes s om e th i n g uniq ue . A c rack in the wal l , to a ma r k on ou r s k in, it s about vie win g the ‘ imperfe c t’ a s p e r f e c t and unde r stan d ing that fl aws are wh a t cr e a te ide nt i t y and charisma.

No ve m be rs issue f o cuses in on creativit y. Not th e co nv e nt ional kin d ; the o u t of the box, th o u g h t pro v oki ng kind . The ty pes you may s ee e ve r yday but do littl e mo re than to gl ance a t i t.

Co n s i d e rat ion of tatto os, an atomy an d im a ger y are vi s ualise d t h r ougho u t to d emon strate th e raw a n d re alne ss of un d erl ying b eauty. Pu tti ng f o c u s into c h al le n gin g the aesthetical l y pl ea s i ng a n d plat for mi ng an interp retatio n of s oc i al ‘u g l i n e ss’. T h is i s a co ncep t on l y fe w may f u l l y un de r s t and, w h i c h on l y increa ses the im portan ce f or i t s posi tio n within in cl us.

Fo r to o long now, prejud ice ha s b een l aid h ea vi l y o n w h at constitutes a s ‘ un attractiv e’ or ‘u g l y’ . Many c re at ives, ar tist’s, au tho rs a nd s o on , a s pir e to por t ray a simil ar messa ge, th er ef o r e i t i s i mpe r at ive that we fo cus in o n th i s a sp e c t of s oci e t y. W hat is attractiven ess? W h o d e c i d es t re nds ? We a s a co ntribu to r to th e m ed i a , b eli e v e we m ust act o n o u r ro l e o f ins pi r i ng th e a n swe r s to t h ese qu estio ns.

O ne of th e m os t i m por tant q u es ti ons I p o s e to m ys el f i s a s f ol l ows ; If beau ty c an be co n s t r uc ted towa r d s one noti on, th en wh y is it co n s ta ntl y c h angi ng? O u r per cepti ons of b e a ut if ul bu i l d i ngs , peopl e, s h apes and col ou r s s hif t d a il y, m onth l y, yea r l y, bu t s oc i ety s ti l l d e p e n d s o n s tr i v i ng f or per f ec ti on. Th i s i s wh y c r e a t iv it y pl a ys s u c h a c r u c i a l r ol e, a s i t i s th a t c r e a t iv it y of an i nd i v i d u al th at s ets th em a pa r t f r o m t he r es t. Cr eati ng th ei r own v er s i on of p e r f e c t io n , a d apti ng on th ei r f l a ws or em ph a s i s in g t he ir quirks.

W h a t you wi l l f i nd i n th i s i s s u e i s tha t we c a r e a bou t noth i ng oth er th a n pu s h i ng t he b o un da r i es of s ens e. Di m i ni s h i ng c u r r ent b e lie f s o f wh y, wh en a nd h ow th i ngs m u s t be d o n e a n d c r eati ng ne w nor m s . We d on’t want to c r e a te a ne w per f ec t, we s i m pl y want to be th e c a t a l y s t i n es c api ng th e i d eol ogy a nd pr es s u r e s o f w ha t per f ec t r eal l y m ea ns .

Noth i ng i s of f topi c .

E d i tor-In-Ch i ef

J.Naylor

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The creative issue no.1

Editor In-chief Jade Naylor

Stylist and Creative Director Megan Shaw

Featured Contributors Narita Savoor Sarah Crosby Jay Sparrow Robert M Drake Mariona McCoy Karl Wightman Photographers Tom O’neil Emma Pilkington Rachel Marston Make-up and Hair Stefan Jemeel Nealey Leah

Digital Editor Thea Wilkie

Models Hamad Jaman Ellie Powers Ursula Griffiths Emily Parsons Georgia Gough Model Agencies NEVS J’adore Models Indutry People The Squad Managment

Marketing, Advertising and Production Director Amy Pollard

Advertisers Fallow & Faun, Joseph, Russell & Bromley, Flock, Ellure, OI POLLOI, Coppafeel, Pangea Organics, Albam, Anton Storey, INSTRMNT, RSK

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Photographer: Tom O’neil Model: Hamad, Ageny - J’adoremodels Stylist & Creative Director - Megan Shaw Make-up and Hair: Stefan Jemeel

HAMAD

Left: Jumper and Tshirt, Topman; Jacket, Zara Man. Right: Jumper and Tshirt (same as above); Joggers, Audere; Shoes, Vans.

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Left: Hoodie and Joggers, Audere; Denim shirt, custom vintage.

Right: Jumper & Tshirt, Topman; Jacket, Zara Man.

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SPARKLES

by Megan Shaw

Interview with Hamad Jaman

Hamad Jaman can’t recall a time he walked down the street without people staring, sniggering and even pointing. Ever since he can remember he’s been different to others; unique and individual. Growing up in Kuwait, Western Asia. Hamad had a troubled childhood; being forced to deal with bullying, struggling to find friends and never feeling accepted by his own community. Hamad couldn’t possibly have imagined that his individuality and uniquities he was once bullied for, would become the key to his success.

Hamad is of mixed race origin. Middle Eastern, Black and White. He talks in detail about feelings of segregation from his community due to his appearance. Hamad’s distinct freckles are extremely rare and unique within the stereotypical Arabian culture. Throughout his life this has led to many misconceptions, confusion and presumptions surrounding his race. He recalls a time that he overheard two Arabian men in public; making comments at his expense such as “I’d kill myself if I looked like him”. Unbeknown to them, that not only could he fully understand what they were saying, but also that Arabic was his mother tongue.

Hamad tells us how within his religion and culture, he was always taught the importance of a close-knit community, so to experience such prejudice and inequality from his own, was particularly shocking and hurtful..

He talks with passion about how such discrimination and ignorance used to make him feel, and shares with us his battles with anxiety and self -esteem during his early teens. He tells us how he can remember so much of the bullying that his happy childhood memories are faint. Although, he recalls always having a loving family, and how it’s only now, looking back and reflecting on his childhood, that he can see the simplicity and beauty of it which at the time was tainted by the difficulties he faced.

Hamad is faultlessly polite, open minded, funny and down to earth, however, it’s only the past few years that his personality and qualities have started to be appreciated. As a child, Hamad grew up in a middle-class family with very supportive parents. He tells us of how his mother would refer to his freckles as

“sparkles”

and

“angel kisses”. She would comfort him by convincing him that one day he would make those other kids jealous. Teaching him to never respond badly to discrimina-

tion, but to “kill them with kindness”, a motto he has always lived by. He doesn’t believe in being unkind to someone based on the things they cannot change about themselves, though, as an adolescent, who was desperate to fit in, that didn’t always help the way he felt.

He was fortunate enough to also have the support of his two older siblings and cousins, Hamad feels strongly that his sister’s constant encouragement to love himself, and to see beauty in its realest form helped him through some of his darkest moments, and ultimately shaped who he is today.

When questioned about his modelling career Hamad is

“he didn’t choose modelling but that modelling chose him”. bashful and modest, he feels that

He has always been an athletic person and particularly strong in football. Hamad always thought that he would become a footballer, which is still a passion he is pursuing playing for a Semi-Professional team in Stockholm, Sweden where he currently resides. The modelling is something that is still fairly new for Hamad.

He tells how it felt like in an instant he went from being publicly shamed for the way he looked to people telling him he should model and how beautiful he was. He admits that the admiration and appreciation is still something he struggles to comprehend. How could he go from being zero to hero overnight? He laughs about how when people first suggested modelling, he thought they were being cruel and mocking him. That it just sounded like another sarcastic joke at his expense. The kind he’d heard before. Little did he know how his life was about to change.

Looking back to the start of his modelling career, he reflects on his fragile state of mind and vulnerability from his past experiences. Suggesting that perhaps he wasn’t “psychologically ready for all of it”, and so brushed off a lot of early opportunities and experiences.

It wasn’t until he was contacted by a well-established Swedish photographer, Malin Qvandstedt, that he seriously started to consider modelling as a career. After much persuasion from close family and friends, he took the opportunity and embraced the shoot. He tells us how after his first shoot he felt liberated, at ease and accepted for

who he is and how he looks for potentially the first time.

After his first shoot, his modelling career instantly took off. Not long after, he was contacted by a popular Swedish Heritage Brand, Holebrooks, who asked him to shoot with them. Remembering the empowerment and adrenalin he had gotten from his first shoot, Hamad grabbed the opportunity with both hands. The images were shot by Björn Ceder and the brand liked them so much they selected Hamad as the cover of their look book.

Soon Hamad was snapped up by modelling agencies, both in Sweden and the UK. Splittingand his time between his footballing and modelling career. Trravelling all over the world for campaigns, ecommerce and editorial modelling jobs. When asked about who his biggest client has been Hamad’s response is reflective of his positive and grate-

“I go into each job as though they are my biggest opportunity, I didn’t know when my first job was going to be, and I don’t know when my last will be. I am just thankful for all that comes my way”. ful attitude towards his career

with big brands. He told us how he thinks he tends to be favoured by quirkier brands as opposed to clean, commercial companies. He can see how his appearance works in both ways, to give him the edge over other models as he is unique, but also maybe prevents him from getting work from mainstream clients. He strives to break the boundaries and social norms of the modelling world, with an aim of one day changing the face of fashion.

Hamad is embracing, and most importantly, enjoying his newly found talent and is feeling stronger, happier and more empowered than ever. When asked about the future, Hamad tells us that he tries not to focus too much on the future, but takes each day as it comes, by setting short term realistic goals and reaching them.

He prefers to go with the flow and feels strongly, that what is meant to be will find its way. He’s unsure on where his modelling will take him, but feels like it’s going to be an

“important chapter in his story”.

Not only has Hamad’s modelling career brought him success and confidence, it’s also given him a platform to speak. With an impressive number of online followers, he has taken his popularity and achievements to talk openly and honestly about his past experiences. He hopes to break societies stereotypical views of ‘beauty’, challenging what is considered the norm, by being himself and encouraging others to love themselves for who they are.

“As I grew up, I’ve come to realise that I have a choice to either let it knock me down or I could use it to help myself by embracing my “flaws.” My choice to embrace my flaws has been the best thing I ever did. It helped me and it seems to help others, which is amazing and crazy to me. I never thought that speaking on my experiences & choices about my look, would reach & resonate with people. “ Hamad tells us how recently, its rare that he experiences discrimination or bullying, but n the few and far between occasions that he has, his approach is the opposite to how it was as a teenager. Now he can laugh about it and let it go over his head, he no longer lets others ignorance get him down. He tells us this is because he has learned to love himself for who he is, on the inside

“I don’t have to be mean to others just because they were to me, I’d rather just smile and let them watch me shine.” as well as out.

His dream clients would be Nike Sportswear or Calvin Klein, in particular the underwear campaigns as he is in awe of their narratives and the messages portrayed within their advertisements. He feels they are well suited to his story. Although he’s uncertain of the future, when asked about the types of clients he gets and whether he thinks his uniquities strengthen or weaken his chances

“My choice to embrace my flaws has been the best thing I ever did”

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Facing pages: Hoodie and Joggers, Audere; Denim shirt, custom vintage.

Right: Jumper & Tshirt, Topman; Jacket, Zara Man.

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Open Letter:

NARITA Narita Savoor, a young professional working within the fashion industry as a fashion and beauty photographer; speaking about the difficulties of breaking into the industry with mental and physical disabilities.

“Working in the creative industry is a challenging career to get into, but throw chronic illness into the equation, and your passion to get into the industry is truly tested.”

Fashion and Beauty photographer, Narita Savoor, describes working in the creative industry whilst struggling with Major Depression Disorder, Myofascial Pain Syndrome and Nerve Damage. Going into detail with the misconceptions and inequalities she has faced throughout her career, as well as praising the help and understanding of those she has worked with.

“Chronic illness doesn’t just need to be a physical issue to interfere with your career; mental health issues can also cause an equal amount of difficulty when trying to make it as a creative today. My story is one that many are going through alongside me. Although it hinders your drive to create; the support and encouragement from other creatives helps inspire you to collaborate and make beautiful images. There is too much stigma around being open and honest when it comes to one’s health. I’ve never been one to shy away from discussing my health issues.

If being fresh out of university, whilst trying to make a break in the fashion industry isn’t hard enough; I also experience both the mental and physical sides of chronic illness. I started my hobby in photography at 15 years old.

It wasn’t until after I experienced my gym injury that I decided to pursue my career in it. I went into the deep end, fully knowing that it was going to be a difficult journey. I have always said that I won’t let this chronic illness get in the way of my career, and I’ll shoot on crutches or in a wheelchair if I have to.

Physical chronic pain causes considerable issues when it

comes to being a photographer for example, I find it difficult to walk uphill, on steps, crouch up/down, lean back or lift anything heavy. Similar to most photographers, I am very determined to create beautiful images and there is only a small selection of creatives and viewers that know the physical pain and mental anguish behind each and every image I publish.

When I organise shoots, I always make sure to choose a team that I feel will support me, and each other throughout the creative process of producing an editorial. In order to create imagery that I am proud of, my equipment, both in and out of the studio, is designed to be accessible and easy to manoeuvre which minimises the chance of over exertion and pain. An example of this, is the lighting I use in the studio, where each piece of equipment is lightweight and on wheels. Since earlier this year, I have taken on my assistant - Emily, she is someone I can mentor in photography whilst helping me on shoots. Emily is one of the reasons I didn’t give up on this career, she does everything to helping me from just washing up to carrying my equipment. She has shown me that the stigma surrounding illness in the industry isn’t as rife as I thought it would be.

The love and encouragement I have been exposed to from other creatives is what drives me to push through the pain, anxiety, highs and lows I experience. In every three people, there is always one that isn’t quite as supportive.

Nevertheless, I always feel that in times of physical and mental darkness, its the creatives in our industry that have been there for me, that keep me going. The ones that have helped with backdrops or stayed after the shoot to help me clean up. If it wasn’t for these creatives, I’d slowly be leaving this industry due to the strain on my health”

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Left: Blouse, H&M. Right: Blouse, same as above; Belt, Each to Their Own; Tight’s, American Apparel; Ballet shoes, models own; Earrings, stylists own.

Photographer: Emma Pilkington Model: Georgia, Ageny - The Squad Management Stylist & Creative Director - Megan Shaw Make-up and Hair: Nealey Leah

GEORGIA

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Left: Shirt, Zara; Dress, Urban Outfitters; Earrings, stylists own; Arm suspenders, Rosie Cullen.

Right: Same as above.

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Body, Rosie Cullen; Knickers, H&M; Bralet, Zara; Earrings, stylists own; Ballet Shoes, Models own.

Top and Bralet, Zara; Knickers, H&M; Ballet shoes, models own; Earrings, stylists own; Ribbon, Abakahn Fabric.

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Left: Shirt, Zara; Ballet Shoes, Models own.

Right: Bod, American Apparel; Ribbbon, Abakhan Fabric.

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Desensitising the nipple

by Thea Wilkie

Its all gone tits up! A battle has been com-

menced, it’s the big boobs against the small boobs. This seems even more apparent when it comes to de-sensitising the nipple, its become clear that when those with a slender body and small tits its fine for the nipple to be set free for all those to see. But as soon as a woman with a larger bust wants to get involved it all of a sudden becomes offensive.

When it comes to social media there is a constant dispute around how only a mans nipple is allowed to be desensitised on posts and when it comes to a woman no matter who they are, if they were to post an image with their nipples on show it would be took down almost immediately due to it being seen as indecent. There will always be backlash caused towards any social media outlet that discriminate towards the use of nipples in a post; it wont be until they allow the equality and allow them to be shown that it will stop. All of this has made people’s needs to push what the nipple should be seen as, this being a statement of freedom and equality between man and woman. However, to say this is what a lot of people want, it is subjecting a completely different matter, that being the equality between women and how people are all for the de-sensitising of the nipple when slim, slender, small boobed women are promoting it but not for a woman with a bit more going for them in the boob and body department. It seems that women are always campaigning to free the nipple yet they seem to be ignoring the prejudice between themselves and their bodies.

The only people that seem to get away with using their breasts as a statement and a fashion accessory are the high profile celebrity names; where no one appears to bat an eye at whether they have their bare breasts on

show. It doesn’t even matter what size the celebrities’ boobs are the whole thing is in a way celebrated as it supports what that celebrities’ identity is all about. So what if you fast forwarded a few weeks or even days to where an ordinary person if you wish, or even a celebrity whose identity wasn’t seen as what the others was, was to follow in that celebrities’ footsteps and walk around with sheer clothing on where you could see the nipple plain as day? It would probably raise questions and be subjected to abuse if not to that persons face but elsewhere, that being social media or word of mouth. This is where again the big boobs vs small boobs are brought into it, as if it was a small breasted woman following the fashion statement with the nipples blazing through the sheer top it would hardly even be noticed and most likely ignored or even praised as a risky fashion statement. But a woman with large breasts would be pulled up and let’s be honest people would cause uproar due to it offending them in a way they probably couldn’t clarify.

So why is it that it’s one rule for some and another for others; which blatantly subject’s twists the perception of what is right and what is wrong. If we are so accepting of the move to desexualise the female nipple, why are we selective in our choice of women who can pull it off ? Surely we are campaigning for women’s rights as a whole?

So, the question is why is it that as humans of the same species we are all for the same cause but want completely different sides of it? Boobs are boobs, nipples are nipples, small is small and big is big. These slender women walking round with their boobs and nips all free to see seem to receive nothing but praise, but where is the praise for the big boobs that have been let free? It’s practically unseen due to the fear of humiliation and discrimination.

We as women need to support each other and embrace our differences, we need to empower our bodies and encourage others to love theirs. What is the point in campaigning for equal rights if we are all against each other, for something as shallow as size and physical appearance? Women are amazing and we all deserve to feel comfortable and liberated in our skin.

Nipples are nipples, no matter what mass of skin they are on.

Boobs are boobs, nipples are nipples, small is small and big is big!

H ow well do you know your boobs?

Very well will hopefully be your an-

swer, and so it should be as it could save your life. Did you know that breast cancer is the most common type of cancer in the UK with one in eight women being diagnosed with it during their lifetime. Oh and boys don’t think you are exempt from this one because you could get it too!

Around 400 men are diagnosed with

breast cancer a year, I bet thats news for you.

You see, its not just knowing about the cancer that will help you as such, its knowing the signs, symptoms and what to look out for. Its a common misconception that breast cancer only starts off as a lump in the boob, but did you know that it could be

How well

do you know your boobs?

by Jade Naylor

anything from nipple discharge to a change in size or shape. It could even be a pain in the armpit or sweeping of the collarbone. The easiest way in doing this, is by getting to know how your boobs look and feel, so that if anything were to change, you would be the first to know.

Coppafeel, an awareness charity of breast cancer, wants to help rule out late detection of breast cancer by teaching every one the symptoms and what to look out for. Coppafeel do a lot to ensure that people are hearing their message loud and clear. Billboards, hijacks and world records are just a few of their missions in raising awareness. The sole purpose of the charity is ‘To help everyone stand the best possible chance of surviving breast cancer by educating on the importance of getting to know your boobs’.

The charity offers free services such as text and email reminders, support in fundraising and extensive helpful information on their website. Breast Cancer is very serious and the symptoms should not be ignored, end of.

Get your partner involved too, they could be just as important in the detection of breast cancer and all they have to do is coppafeel…

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Photographer: Tom O’neil Model: Ursula, Ageny - J’adoremodels Stylist & Creative Director - Megan Shaw Make-up and Hair: Stefan Jemeel

URSULA

Left: Jumper & Tshirt both Cow Vintage; earrings, stylists own. RightJumper, Mango; Jacket, Blue rinse; Bra, American Apparel; Earrings, stylists own.

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Jumper, Cow Vintage; earrings stylists own; Rings, Afflects.

Tattooed: Corporate to Creative

by Amy Pollard

Looking around, we are surrounded by those who choose to

alter their skin with tattoo’s and piercings. Most may assume that the decorated opt for a creative or artistic career, however looks can be deceiving. To the surprise of many, there are far more tattooed individuals working in a corporate environment than you would think. Often receiving discrimination in order to gain a respectful position within their desired profession. Whilst researching into this, I was given the opportunity to interview an individual who has experienced working in both a corporate profession, as well as creative, and speaks of the differences in attitudes between the two, with regards to her body art. Sarah Crosby, 28, is in the process of making a life changing career move, in which she hopes to be able to express her creativity and be herself without having the worry of stigma or discrimination from colleagues or her employers.

When I spoke to Sarah, she told me that her previous profession was a support worker in various different health care settings, but she is now self-employed and in the process of setting up her own mobile barbering business. I started by asking Sarah about her ink and what kind of meanings they had to them, if they had any. She was very open with me and was not afraid to be completely honest. Sarah started her answer with “I have a Constantine cross on my wrist in memory of a friend who died”. This was very unexpected, even though thousands of people have memorial tattoos, as most people would just cut you off or just say ‘its personal’. You could tell that she was proud to talk about it, which was a nice feeling.

Knowing that she would always have that personal piece of artwork on her wrist, to be able to look down on to remember her friend, is something positive to come out of a negative situation. From being in the career Sarah was, she was still able to continue collecting artwork, however, she would always face questions. This was not something she would just brush off, nevertheless she chose to cover them up “simply to avoid repeat questions, ‘what’s that on your arm?’ etc. etc.”

Sarah additionally spoke about her boyfriend being a tattoo apprentice, so she has selflessly dedicated one of her legs to him to be able to practice on. “He’s an illustrator so basically, I ask him what I’d like him to draw up and he does it”. Her leg

now consists of various designs such as; a lightning bolt in memory of David Bowie, a bat skull, a morning star weapon and an evil looking sea horse.

Being able to ask direct questions meant I was able to tailor them to suit Sarah more, which led me to ask if she believed she would still be the person she was if she had been in a different career. One of the reasons why she chose to quit working in the health care industry and take it upon herself to start doing something she fully enjoys was because of the shifts.

“Either 12 or 24 hour shifts, including nights and sleep over shifts, for companies who seriously don’t give a shit about their staff”. You can imagine that this would be something that started to grate on you over time. This was a shock to find out that it wasn’t anything to do with how she looked, and to find out that “the business owners in the care industry don’t actually care about the service users, they just care about how much money they bring”. You would have thought that being in a career she was, the way you are presented would count, often tattoos are considered to be ‘scruffy’ and ‘unprofessional’. It was refreshing to hear that health care is a career which you are still able to express yourself in and not have to worry about being knocked back, whether it was in interviews or progressing to more senior roles. However, as Sarah has said, you were more likely to be questioned by clients repeatedly, by no fault of their own, it would give you reason to stop or to take a step backwards from completely being who you want to be or looking the way you want to. Sarah told me that she did get tired of the questions but that it couldn’t be helped and she knew that nonetheless. “I think I definitely would be a different person if I had a different career, but I’ve done different things because I don’t think I have ever found what I really wanted to do until now”. This is something that stood out, as a lot of pressure is put on young adults to find the occupation they wish to be in from a very young age. However, that isn’t always the way it goes, a great example is Sarah who is, again 28 and only just finding what her true vocation is.

Although discrimination in job interviews is something you would expect for a tattooed individual, Sarah hadn’t personally experienced any as she had always automatically covered

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up her tattoos. This is why when Sarah got her hand tattoo, she saw it as “a big ‘fuck you’ to those kinds of people” and that she wouldn’t feel comfortable going for a job interview if they were likely to judge you on the way you chose to look. “I do believe this stigma still exists, I just haven’t encountered it due to the jobs I’ve had”. For someone who hasn’t actually experienced any stigma during interviews but is fully aware of this happening, it just goes to show how much people are actually judged by the way they look, even if it doesn’t actually effect the way they work. In some situations, she worked with youths ages 16-20, which she felt looking the way she does helped, as they were more likely to open up calmer and quicker. It “created an instant respect that the older nurses didn’t get”. On the other hand, as you would imagine, it was not always that simple when it came to the older clients as “they were less likely to respect me because they thought I was either younger than I was, or I wasn’t a professional because I had tattoos”. From speaking to Sarah, I was able to gain insight into the discrimination, with an understanding that it doesn’t always come from employers, but how clients or customers consider tattoos.

Even though Sarah has not experienced any discrimination through interviews, something she had to get used to in her past career was horrible comments, not necessarily the employers but the service users. In the kind of setting she was in, it was obvious the clients couldn’t help it, it was an instant defence mechanism for them when they were scared. Intensive psychiatric clients would often pick up on Sarah because of her tattoos, however “they’d pick on other members of staff because of their weight or height or any other physical feature”. She went on to say that

it was something that just came with the job. If she hadn’t of had tattoos and piercings, the clients more than likely would have picked up on something else. This, lead onto her talking about how excited she is for her new adventure in barbering and by going into something as creative as the hair styling industry, she is able to look how she wants and not have to worry about the constant questions. Old school styled tattoos are a traditional commonality with barbers, the heritage and sense of community is something which inspired her to get her hand tattooed. Sarah felt getting the tattoo on her hand was more of an initiation into the industry and that she is now officially part of the barbering business. Conversely, Sarah will not be totally leaving the health care career behind her, as the main focus of her barbering business is going to be combining the two careers by cutting gents hair who are either in healthcare or a residential settings.

When you come to think of it, maybe it is more of a generation thing. Maybe in the future, discrimination against tattoos and piercings in the work place will no longer exist and will be a thing of the past. However, for the time being, it is something which needs to be addressed and stopped. The way someone looks does not affect their working capabilities. Enjoying art and showing it is not something people should be ashamed of or have to cover up for the sake of others around them. If anything it is a way of showing appreciation, patience and dedication. Tattoos, piercings and individuality are all things which differentiate you and the people around you, furthermore, both corporate and creative industries should become more accommodating and welcoming of individuality and accept everyone for who they wish to be and how they wish to look.

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Your problem, not mine; I can see the way you look at me, I can tell what you’re thinking through your eyes, You see an imperfect person, You see a girl whose body does not fit the norm, If I cared I would change, If I cared I would not show my face, But I don’t care, You do.

Jay Sparrow

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Tshirt, Tommy Hilfiger; Jeans, Urban Outfitters; Boots, Zara.

Photographer: Emma Pilkington Model: Ellie Powers, Ageny - Industry People Stylist & Creative Director - Megan Shaw Make-up and Hair: Nealey Leah

ELLIE

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Dress, Zara.

Jumper, Zara; Jacket, Topshop; Jeans, Urban Outfitters; Boots, Zara.

Tshirt and Slip dress, Urban Outfitters.

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Tshirt, Urban Outfitters.

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inspo

The Eyebrow Game

Illustration created by Karl Wightman

Eyebrows. Ever changing in shape and style

but have forever maintained importance.

Like anything else, eyebrows go through trends. The thin over-plucked style of the nineties is a distant memory to the shape we see today. But what is it about eyebrows that is so important to many people?

The main function that eyebrows provide to the face is the protection of sweat, water and moisture to the eyes. They also channel non-verbal communication and emotions through movement. However, for decades, even centuries, they have carried an even more important role of characterising and defining ones face. The earliest known time when eyebrows were emphasised using makeup goes back to the Ancient Egyptians.

Both men and women would darken, arch and elongate their eyebrows using black oxide substances to make them more prominent. Ancient Greek and Roman women found the uni-brow to be the most desirable style, which carried multiple connotations such as purity, intelligence and beauty.

The next noticeable change in women’s brows was the barely there middle ages.

This is when over plucked eyebrows were the look everyone desired. Elizabethan influence was also popular with the tinting of red tones used to match the eyebrows of Queen Elizabeth. Skipping forward to 1920 and thin shapes continued as the popular choice; so narrow that women would pencil them in. This followed right through until the 1940’s when styles became heavier. The full look was intended to be look softer, opposed to the harshness of the pencil thin styles previously worn. Continuing through the fifties with the Hollywood glamour of Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor, the fuller look maintained. Sophie Loren had the most envious brows of the 1960’s and are still pinned as some of the best today.

Her secret was to shave them totally off and use small but gradual strokes to create a natural effect with a high arch and bold look.

The Hippie movement of the seventies saw brows take a complete natural overhaul.

The bushier the better was the motto that grew gradually more and more through the eighties in every sense. However, it was the nineties that saw the first major change in modern times. The style was a throw back to the 1920’s with a thin, curved shape. This was short lived though, with the bold brow coming back with full force in the nough-

ties, to where we are now. The eyebrows of each decade had predominant styles, although they did still vary, eyebrow trends were just that, and not everyone was obliged to follow them. However, in more recent times, there is a sort of ‘shame’ element brought upon people who don’t conform to the styles. Pressure is passively laid upon people to make the effort with their eyebrows and can sometimes be almost singled out or made to feel belittled if they do not.

All it takes is a simple google search of the word ‘eyebrows’ and endless results show makeup tutorials, blog feeds, images and available treatments. Its as though the world is obsessed with perfect eyebrows, but what are perfect eyebrows? An enthusiast, such as a professional makeup artist, would prefer a neat, tidy and tamed brow with a perfect arch.

Whereas, someone who prefers a more subtle natural look may adopt a more volumed and untamed style.

Eyebrows are synonymous with overall style, its an extension of personality and interests. Extroverts, or the incredibly quirky may opt for a creative and unique fashion, maybe even no eyebrows at all. However, this style could unfortunately mean the judgment of character, with connotations of a person being unclean, lazy or less stylish. Comparatively, someone who is professional or channels a sleeker and cleaner look, may choose a tidy and neat shape, which may infer to someone as bossy, shallow or vain. These judgments are solely relied on a person-by-person basis of individual style, but it is ultimately down to the perception of others on what judgments are made.

Going back to the real question regarding the importance of eyebrows, what is it about them that makes so many people interested or concerned of their appearance? The practical uses of protection to the eyes and non verbal communications has been discussed, as well as the framing of the face and added personality. Though it is apparent that through style, one can gain respect, appraisal and in some sense, power. Although the statement that ‘our eyebrows define us’ is strong and not necessarily, always true, it is in someway debatable. Through an in house survey with readers aged 16 onwards and of all genders it was found that over 90 percent of readers believed eyebrows were either very or somewhat important to a persons overall appearance. Presumably this is why over 80 percent admitted to taking the time in maintaining or grooming their eyebrows.

The thing with eyebrows is, although they are not the only defining feature of the face, they are still a fundamental part of the overall make up.

Just as important as bone structure, eye size, lip volume, nose shape and everything in between. The one thing that is and will always be a fact, is that every facial feature works together to create an individuals unique look. Who is to say what shape nose is best and who decided that plump lips are the nicest kind? It is society who has decided, but being different and unique is beautiful, timeless and worthy of embracing. Moral is, tomorrows eyebrows are different to yesterdays and the eyebrow game is ever-changing, you don’t have to keep up.

by Jade Naylor

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o i p o l l o i . c o m

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Man of Dreams

by Jade Naylor

Tall, dark and handsome, I think not. Many may de-

scribe the ideal man to suit those three words, but what does that actually mean? How tall is tall and how dark is dark? What even is handsome?

Anyone and everyone faces pressures on their appearance, however men are expected to suppress these as though they are insignificant. Many may struggle to be happy with their appearance based on the models and celebrity choices used in magazines and films. To have a good face, a full head of hair and an attractive, toned body. Realistically, not all men look this way and that is completely acceptable. Believe it or not, but men are allowed to care about stuff other than sports, fitness and fashion; men are entitled to love themselves in the same way that women are. Men are also allowed to have self-esteem issues and should be fully free to speak out on those. In fact, encouraging men to speak out is exactly what needs to happen, it might prevent illness formed around the lack of self esteem and worth.

Its almost normal for someone to have low esteem at some point in their life however, there becomes

a point in which it crosses over to body dysmorphic disorder. BDD is an anxiety disorder which can affect people of all ages and is almost equal in numbers between men and women. It makes a person believe that they are ugly or defected and creates a distorted perception of themselves. The greater problem with men who have BDD is that the amount who will seek help may be drastically different to the statistics.

Those with BDD can be secretive about their feelings and those that have sought help will more than likely not speak out about it, leaving other sufferers feeling as though they are the only ones. BDD can make a person recluse themselves, avoiding social situations or creating social awkwardness. It can also make a person become excessively obsessed with diet and exercise, meaning a sufferer of body dysmorphia is more prone to eating disorders or depression.

Depression is a very serious mental illness that affects a lot of people, though, for men it proves to be more life threatening. According to a report published by Samaritans, men are three times more likely to commit suicide than women with 76 percent of all suicides being committed by a man. This could be a

result of a combination of factors such as, a less positive outlook towards professional help or therapy, the traditional aspect of a man being strong, inferior and self-reliant, amongst many more. It is common with cases of depression that the illness can be linked with one or more other illness, such as anxiety, obsessive compulsive disorder, addictions and eating disorders.

This is often not a conscious decision but an act of gaining or losing control. However, more often than not, leads to a spiralling loss of control.

Looking more closely at Eating Disorders, which are often stereotyped as ‘women’s problems’ but just as serious amongst men. Illnesses such as anorexia nervosa, bulimia or even binge eating disorders are often blamed on the social pressures by the media, causing the desire to be thin. This comes as a result of overly obsessing with diet and exercise, ultimately for the need to control.

The website, mengetedstoo.co.uk, is dedicated to outlining the importance of support and awareness needed for eating disorders in men. It sites that, in 2007 the NHS Information Centre found 6.4 percent of people in England over 16 had a problem with

food and that a quarter of those people were men.

The website also explains that the Royal College of Practitioners reported “a 66 percent rise of male hospital admissions but is thought to be only the tip of an iceberg”. In the United Kingdom, 1 in 2000 men will suffer from an eating disorder at some point in their life, but that number is only based on the men that seek or receive treatment. Many will not come forward because of shame, pride and feelings of embarrassment, which only makes the illness so much more dangerous.

Mental illness in any form and any gender is a serious matter. Its the lead up or the cause to these mental illnesses that is the issue. Women undoubtedly face amounts of pressure on the way they look, feel or act, and it has been that way for a long time. However, women are encouraged to speak about this and steps are now being taken, with movements happening to ensure that this changes. Obviously, there is still a long way to go, but the same thing needs to happen for men too. The stigma that forces men to preserve their feelings or true thoughts is such a wider issue than believed, it has consequences to it.

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albam

www.albamclothing.com @albamclothing

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www.albamclothing.com @albamclothing

albam 61

albam

i think you're looking for something, but don’t know what it is. i think maybe that’s why you cling to certain kinds of people, to secure something in yourself that you're doubting. perhaps, in some sense, you doubt your own future which is why you always find yourself in the hardest situations. and then, you wonder why they leave. you wonder why they don’t need you or love you. the truth falls heavy. it’s not that they don’t love you. maybe you, my dear, still haven’t learned to love yourself.

R.M Drake

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Shorts, Zara.

Photographer: Tom O’neil Model: Emily; Ageny - NEVS Stylist & Creative Director - Megan Shaw Make-up and Hair: Nealey Leah

Emily

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Jumper, Topshop Facing page: Top, American Aparrel; Trousers, Mango

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Tshirt , H&M; Underwear, models own

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Mariona (@iamseaona) ˘ Instagram photos and videos. Retrieved November 2, 2016, from https://www.instagram.com/iamseaona/ Cosmopolitan, & Harvey-Jenner, C. (2012, September 12). It’s time to CoppaFeel. Retrieved November 3, 2016, from Health, http://www. cosmopolitan.co.uk/body/health/a17298/coppafeel-how-to-check-your-boobs-for-breast-cancer/ Retrieved November 3, 2016, from https://coppafeel.org Retrieved November 3, 2016, from https://coppafeel.org/boob-check/ Retrieved November 3, 2016, from https://coppafeel.org/remind-me/ Retrieved November 3, 2016, from https://coppafeel.org/what-we-do/our-charity/ BBC. (2013, November 16). Why do you have eyebrows? Retrieved November 3, 2016, from BBC, http://www.bbc.com/future/story/20131115-why-do-you-have-eyebrows Mychaskiw, M. (2015, April 28). A history in eyebrows: See the most popular brow shapes through the decades. Retrieved November 3, 2016, from http://www.instyle.com/beauty/eyes/history-eyebrows Naylor, J. (2016, October 16). Eyebrows Survey. Retrieved November 3, 2016, from Survey Monkey, https://www.surveymonkey.co.uk/r/8FCMH9C Valenti, L. (2014, April 10). The history of women and their eyebrows. Retrieved November 3, 2016, from Makeup, http://www.marieclaire. com/beauty/makeup/a9381/eyebrows-through-the-years/

Hamad shoot pages 18-25 Photographer: Tom O’neil Model: Hamad, Ageny - J’adoremodels Stylist & creative director - Megan Shaw Make-up and Hair: Stefan Jemeel Ellie shoot pages 46-50 Photographer: Emma Pilkington Model: Ellie Powers, Ageny - Industry People Stylist & creative director - Megan Shaw Makeup and Hair: Nealey Leah Georgia shoot pages 28-35 Photographer: Emma Pilkington Model: Georgia, Ageny - Squad Management Stylist & creative director - Megan Shaw Make-up and Hair: Nealey Leah Emily shoot pages 64-69 Photographer: Tom O’neil Model: Emily; Ageny - NEVS Stylist & creative director - Megan Shaw Make-up and Hair: Nealey Leah Ursula shoot pages 38-42 Photographer: Tom O’neil Model: Ursula, Ageny - J’adoremodels Stylist & creative director - Megan Shaw Make-up and Hair: Stefan Jemeel 2016, S. (2016). Research report: Men and suicide. Retrieved November 3, 2016, from http://www.samaritans.org/about-us/our-research/ research-report-men-suicide-and-society Choices, N. (2016, June 23). Body dysmorphic disorder (BDD). Retrieved November 3, 2016, from http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/ body-dysmorphia/Pages/Introduction.aspx Helpguide. Signs, symptoms, and help for male depression. Retrieved November 3, 2016, from http://www.helpguide.org/articles/depression/depression-in-men.htm Males and eating disorders. Retrieved November 3, 2016, from http://www.nationaleatingdisorders.org/males-and-eating-disorders Men and Depression. (2011). NHS. Retrieved 3 November 2016, from http://www.nhs.uk/ipgmedia/national/Royal%20College%20of%20 Psychiatrists/Assets/MenandDepression.pdf Men and depression. Retrieved November 3, 2016, from https://www.nimh.nih.gov/health/publications/men-and-depression/index.shtml Men and Suicide: Why it’s a social issue. (2012). Men and suicide. Retrieved 3 November 2016, from http://www.samaritans.org/sites/ default/files/kcfinder/files/Samaritans_Men_and_Suicide_Report_web.pdf Mind, the mental health charity - help for mental health problems. (2013). Retrieved November 3, 2016, from http://www.mind.org.uk/ information-support/types-of-mental-health-problems/depression/#.WBqCR6OcZo4 Suicide. (2014). Retrieved November 3, 2016, from http://www.thecalmzone.net.gridhosted.co.uk/help/get-help/suicide/ Supporting men with eating disorders, carers and their families to get their voices heard. Retrieved November 3, 2016, from http:// mengetedstoo.co.uk The facts. Retrieved November 3, 2016, from http://mengetedstoo.co.uk/information/the-facts

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GEORGIA THE EYEBROW GAME

TATTOOED: CORPORATE TO CREATIVE