Namaskarjainkamalissuu by Jain Kamal

APR-MAY 2004

C M Y K 150#

FEB - MAR 2004

FEB-MAR 2004

UT TAR PRADESH

The

Taj & beyond C M Y K 150#

DEC - JAN 2004

THE DECCAN ODYSSEY

Maharashtra

THE MAHARAJAH’S MESSAGE

There’s something about a journey by train that brings out the romantic in us. The effect is more pronounced if the train you’re in happens to be rolling through landscape chequered with everything from ancient forts to pristine beaches. Take the Deccan Odyssey, for instance, now the most luxurious way of taking in the sights and sounds of Maharashtra. Picture yourself ensconced in a carriage fit for a Maharajah, pampered by the best that five-star comfort has to offer. We’ve managed an exclusive peek inside, so go look. There’s more to this issue, of course (there always is, when it’s India you’re looking at). Take chaat, that ubiquitous snack found in some form or another at nooks and corners across the country. We sample a few varieties, like Golgappas in Delhi, Jhaal Muri in Bengal, Sev Puri in Mumbai and Aloo Tikki in Varanasi. Then, sated, we get up close and personal with the majestic lions of Gir, before flying halfway across the world to the city of Chicago. An in-depth look at three exciting sectors in India Inc. — banking, real estate and energy — comes next, followed by a trip to Haryana, the ‘granary of India’. Lots of faces too, as always: Celina Jaitley — new heroine on the block, Gulshan Grover — an actor with his sights set on Hollywood, Sulajja Firodia Motwani— astute businesswoman, and Swapna Sundari — winner of the Padma Vibhushan. We find so much to do in India, so many people to meet, so little time to do it in. Then, we remember: there’s always another issue coming up sometime soon. See you there.

THE MAHARAJAH AIR-INDIA’S LOVABLE

Namaskaar, the traditional Indian form of greeting, with palms together and head bowed, is an acknowledgement of the infinite that resides within each of us.

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ON THE EDITORIAL BOARD JITENDER BHARGAVA MARZBAN PATEL AT THE DESK EDITOR LINDSAY PEREIRA PROJECT MANAGERS KINZAL VADERA CHARULATA BANSAL SHASHIDHAR V ART DIRECTOR JAIN KAMAL DESIGNER LAKSHMINARAYANAN PRODUCTION ELIDIO FERNANDES

CONTENTS APR -MAY 2004

IN THE MARKET VICE-PRESIDENT ZENOBIA VICCAJI BUSINESS MANAGER APARNA SHAH

RAKESH

MUMBAI (022-2204 8890) VINAYA MATHEWS DELHI (011- 26177440) GERA / RUNA SINHA / JYOTI HANDA BANGALORE (080-5592714) K GANESH/ ANAND M P CHENNAI (044-28214362) V RANI GOKUL KOCHI (0484 - 2350650) A C SOMANATH LUCKNOW (0522-2780560) P P S MARWA KOLKATA (033-24748911) TUHIN CHATTOPADHYAY AHMEDABAD (079-26469185) REYNA DESAI BARODA (0265-2357516) SANJAY CHAVDA EUROPE (+44-207-630 9966) CHRIS MORGAN HONG KONG (+852-2516 1029) MONICA WOO MALAYSIA (+60-3-7729 6923) SHALLIE CHENG SINGAPORE (+65 6836 2272) WINDY TAN DUBAI (+9714 3913360) MERZI DARUWALA

IN THE OFFICE ADMIN MGR SATYA ARVIND MKTG SERVICES MGR SALIM B ADMIN EXECUTIVE RESHMA MALVANKAR RAJINDER KAUR BEDI MANAGER ACCOUNTS GIRISH SHARMA ACCOUNTS EXECUTIVE DEEPALI N CREDIT CONTROLLER GIRISH JOSHI BRANCH COORDINATOR APARNA B DELHI COORDINATOR VIJAY MOHAN AT THE TOP MANAGING DIRECTOR MARZBAN PATEL EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR ANITA PATEL CFO MANISH MEHTA PRINTED

24 12

32 34

THOMSON PRESS, FARIDABAD.

42 CUSTOM MEDIA PUBLISHING

This magazine is published by Air-India and produced by Emphasis, Hong Kong under agreement with AirIndia and opinions expressed herein are of the authors and do not necessarily reflect any opinion of Air-India or Emphasis. Editorial enquiries and enquiries concerning the reproduction of articles, advertising, circulation should be addressed to Namaskaar, Mediascope Integrated Marketing India Private Limited, 402 Doli Chamber, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba, Mumbai 400 005, India. Email: namaskaar@media-scope.com Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs should be accompanied by a self-addressed envelope and sufficient postage. Material in this publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the consent of the publisher.

44 49 50 54

INDIA FILE - PATHS TO PARADISE Beaches? Parties? Parties on the beach? Stop by Daman or Dadra and Nagar Haveli.

WORLD VIEW - LOS ANGELES When Gustasp and Jeroo Irani refer to LA as the Wild West Coast of America, they have some pretty good reasons.

CELEB SPEAK - AKSHAY KUMAR The heart-throb of the Indian film industry speaks his mind.

FASHION - ABU JANI AND SANDEEP KHOSLA This duo creates a kind of magic that has slowly, but surely, enthralled discerning buyers across the globe.

PASSENGER PROFILE - BHARAT SHAH How this 71-year-old takes the term 'frequent flyer' to a whole new level.

FESTIVAL - BAISAKHI HAI! Celebration of spring and prosperity in Punjab

CUISINE - SPICE ROUTE Chettinad - A bit of Burma, Malaysia and Tamil Nadu.

HUMOUR - HEAT AND BE MERRY? Analysing summer in detail gets Jug Suraiya all hot.

GLOBAL INDIAN - PRITISH NANDY A man with many hats and he juggles them with élan.

PHOTOFEATURE - COOL, COOL SUMMER When the sun gets you down, head for the hills!

49 50

CONTENTS APR -MAY 2004

76 OTHER PAGES 3

MAHARAJAH’S MESSAGE

AIR-INDIA UPDATE

62 66

64 CONTEST 80 TRAVEL NOTES 81 DUTY FREE SHOPPING 87 INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT 92 RADIO

IN CONVERSATION - DR. FEELGOOD Charting new avenues of growth for India's pharmaceutical and biotechnology sectors: Dr Swati Piramal.

HEALTH - SCENT TO HEAL According to practitioners of aromatherapy, getting rid of stress can be as easy as breathing in and out.

BUSINESS - TELECOM Until recently, it was seen as a derivative of economic activity. Today, telecom is a major driver for economic growth in India.

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94 MAPS

LANDMARK - THE DEEG PALACE The eighteenth-century palace that recreates the magic of the monsoons in summer.

ON THE EDITORIAL BOARD JITENDER BHARGAVA MARZBAN PATEL AT THE DESK EDITOR LINDSAY PEREIRA PROJECT MANAGER KINZAL VADERA ART DIRECTOR JAIN KAMAL DESIGNER LAKSHMINARAYANAN PRODUCTION ELIDIO FERNANDES

CONTENTS FEB - MAR 2004

IN THE MARKET VICE-PRESIDENT ZENOBIA VICCAJI GENERAL MANAGER VAISHALI CHUDGAR BUSINESS MANAGER APARNA SHAH MUMBAI (022-2204 8890) VINAYA MATHEWS DELHI (011-26177440) RAKESH GERA / RUNA SINHA / JYOTI HANDA BANGALORE (080-5592714) K GANESH/ ANAND M P CHENNAI (044-28214362) V RANI GOKUL KOCHI (0484 - 2303845 / 2350650) A C SOMANATH LUCKNOW (0522-2780560) P P S MARWA KOLKATA (033-24748911) TUHIN CHATTOPADHYAY AHMEDABAD (079-26469185) REYNA DESAI BARODA (0265-2357516) SANJAY CHAVDA EUROPE (+44-207-630 9966) CHRIS MORGAN HONG KONG (+852-2516 1029) MONICA WOO MALAYSIA (+60-3-7729 6923) SHALLIE CHENG SINGAPORE (+65 6836 2272) WINDY TAN DUBAI (+9714 3913360) MERZI DARUWALA IN THE OFFICE ADMIN MGR SATYA ARVIND ADMIN EXECUTIVE RESHMA MALVANKAR RAJINDER KAUR BEDI MANAGER ACCOUNTS GIRISH SHARMA ACCOUNTS EXECUTIVE DEEPALI N CREDIT CONTROLLER GIRISH JOSHI BRANCH COORDINATOR APARNA B DELHI COORDINATOR VIJAY MOHAN AT THE TOP MANAGING DIRECTOR MARZBAN PATEL EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR ANITA PATEL CFO MANISH MEHTA PRINTED

THOMSON PRESS, FARIDABAD.

12 12

INDIA FILE - FOREVER YOUNG The Taj Mahal. Three little words that have drawn millions from across the globe to Uttar Pradesh, the state where the past and the contemporary meet in ways as strange as they are exciting.

44 50

CELEB SPEAK - FARDEEN KHAN Questions and answers from this heart-throb of the Indian film industry.

GLOBAL INDIAN - THE LION KING Satya Wanvari talks advertising, awards and cricket with Piyush Pandey, under whose creative leadership O&M India ranks second in the world of advertising.

OFFBEAT - CHHATTISGARH: STATE OF GRACE Hidden waterfalls, mysterious caves and the throb of tribal drums greet Gustasp Irani on his visit.

HUMOUR - THE FAST AND THE FURIOUS Lunch and dinner are all very well, but what Jug Suraiya would kill for is breakfast.

CUSTOM MEDIA PUBLISHING

WORLD VIEW - SHANGHAI SURPRISE Travel writers thrive on culture shock, say Gustasp and Jeroo Irani. What they found here, however, was an Asian city that seemed more westernised than the West.

SPECIAL FEATURE - MADE TO ORDER Who needs carpenters when your kind of furniture is now available off the shelf?

CONTEST Pick from a number of options, send in a postcard and win big. All on this page.

CONTENTS FEB - MAR 2004

83 OTHER PAGES 3

MAHARAJAH’S MESSAGE

AIR-INDIA UPDATE

80 52

74 KNOW MORE 88 TRAVEL NOTES

89 DUTY FREE SHOPPING 95 INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT 100 RADIO

102 MAPS 80

WILDLIFE - BAMBOO AND THE BEASTS In the ancient land of Nagarhole, says Sunjoy Monga, man must walk quietly and learn to take a backseat.

52 64

CUISINE - COAST STORY It has stayed pretty much the same for centuries, impervious to the commercialisation of outside forms. Who can blame Marion Arathoon, then, for not getting enough of Saraswat cuisine?

IN CONVERSATION - BANK ON HIM N B Rao meets Uday Kotak, Executive Vice-Chairman and Managing Director, Kotak Mahindra Bank and comes away suitably impressed.

INDIA INC. OUR MUTUAL FRIENDS They are perfect not just for big players, but also for those who want to participate in the stock markets and have neither the time nor the skills to do so. A long, hard look at the Indian mutual fund industry.

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Â‚puJ>pu Â‚rEZ "Vu@‚ \pxJ>Z' @‚p ∫\˘ØS[ _pvÆQY{ LANDMARK - THE LIVING FORT Why Sonar Qila in Rajasthan continues to astonish visitors.

Brand Wagon

Haute Stuff... WRIST ASSURED Nebula, the luxury brand of solid gold watches from Titan, has tied up with designer Rohit Bal for an exclusive range called the Nebula Rohit Bal Collection. Designed to be part of an Indian wedding trousseau, the range will comprise two collections a year. Created in 18 K gold and embellished with diamonds and other precious stones, it will be launched to coincide with the 2004 summer wedding season in India. Priced between Rs 50,000 and Rs 1,00,000, the collection will be available at select World of Titan Showroom and Rohit Bal Design stores across the country. Go for it.

SCENT OF A WOMAN Lanvin, the French fashion and accessories brand, has launched Eclat d' Arpege, a new fragrance for women. More than 60 natural essences play their part in the composition of the fragrance, which is priced at Rs 1,900 for 30 ml EDP, Rs 2,450 for 50 ml EDP and Rs 3,300 for 100 ml EDP. The bottle is as stunning, with a dazzling stopper topped with a white diamond and adorned with two metal rings. Pick one up at any Lanvin retail counter, at leading shopping centres in Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata, Bangalore, Hyderabad and Chennai.

TIES THAT BIND Studio Reves has launched new collections by its expert in-house designers. To begin with, the 'Celebrations of Love' collection is one inspired by relationships of all kinds. Then there is the Isha-Satva collection, with its Lord Ganesha range comprising diamond-studded pendants in 18 K yellow, pink and white gold. Now, it's time for the Bridal Collection, which gives wedding jewellery a whole new dimension. Apart from the usual display of expertise and glitter, an interesting fact about this range is the versatility of the pieces — they can be reassembled and worn in different ways.

GET FLOORED What began as a nomadic craft ages ago continues to amaze people the world over. That's what you realise the minute you step into Carpet Cellar — a specialty studio for among the finest hand woven and hand knotted masterpieces, put together by India's most respected curator of carpets, Sheel Chandra. The collection represents the culture of a vast area — from China and Mongolia to the erstwhile Soviet Union, Tibet, Turkey, Mesopotamia, Persia, Afghanistan, Baluchistan and India — and boasts everything from superb Shahmina shawls to the worldrenowned shahtoosh, pashmina, jamewar, paisley rumaals and Kanni weave shawls. Interested? Drop in. The Carpet Cellar: 1, Anand Lok, Khel Gaon Marg, New Siri Fort Auditorium, New Delhi 49. Tel: 26261777, 51641777.

Celeb-Speak

“My favourite things…”

Celina Jaitley has arrived. The daughter of a Punjabi father and Afghani mother, she has the spotlight shining brightly on her. A beauty pageant winner (Miss India 2001 and Miss Universe 2001 fourth-runner up), the twenty-something woman walks tall, safe in the knowledge that she has bagged more than a couple of prestigious, bigbanner films. While the Sunny Deol-Sunil Shetty-Ajay Jadeja starrer Khel has already been released, other Celina starrers lined up for release include Janasheen, No Entry, and Idiot. What now? "I'm looking forward to some turning points in my life," she tells Dinesh Raheja

CELINA ON CELINA… I was born on November 24. My birthday falls on the cusp of Scorpio and Sagittarius. Like many Sagittarians, I am extremely independent and, like many a Scorpio, I can sting when hurt. I come from a small, close-knit family. My father and younger brother are in the Indian army, and my mother is a child psychologist. ON THE INDIAN FILM INDUSTRY… My life changed the day I was declared Miss India in 2001. I am now looking forward to some more turning points in my life, especially in my chosen profession — acting. I will always be known as filmmaker Feroz Khan's discovery in the industry, because he was the one who cast me in Janasheen. As a director, he is extremely stylish, and he always makes his heroines look very glamorous. ON WORK… Khel will remain a memorable experience because it was the first time the audience saw me on screen. My co-star, cricketer Ajay Jadeja, was new to films too, so we shared a comfortable camaraderie. My current assignments include two films with Fardeen Khan and one with his cousin, 34

Zayed. They are both great fun to work with. ON LETTING HER HAIR DOWN… St Moritz, a ski resort in Switzerland, is a favourite holiday spot. Closer home, I like Ranikhet and Bangalore a lot. My most memorable trip was to Bhutan though. I would spend hours talking to the monks there, or just drink in the serenity the place had to offer. I think I am spiritually inclined. I enjoy travelling by plane. I always carry a book with me, it could be an Emily Bronte classic or an Asterix comic. I love reading and, when I'm not with a book, I watch the in-flight films. I get very hungry on flights though, so, if the cuisine happens to be Thai or Malaysian, my day is made. I'm very fond of music too, especially country music and the ghazals of Jagjit Singh and Ghulam Ali. I never leave my house without my mobile, a book and my medicine box. When I'm away, I miss my two Labradors — Muffin and Scoobie Doobie — the most. I adore them. ON INDIA… I can write reams about my country. There is no place in the world I love half as much. ■

India File

TARKARLI

AJANTA

FRESCOES AT

AJANTA

A PASSAGE THROUGH Maharashtra GANPATIPULE

ELLORA

AJANTA

BIBI-KA-MAQBARA PHOTOGRAPHS: GUSTASP IRANI

Outside, the land rolls by â&#x20AC;&#x201D; ancient forts, great brown hills and vast green fields. Inside, Gustasp Irani sips champagne and puts his feet up in a train that would make most kings happy. All aboard The Deccan Odyssey

LIVE BAND WELCOMED us as we stepped on to the platform where the gleaming Deccan Odyssey, India's newest, most luxurious train, stood. A uniformed usher in a brilliant orange turban led us, past rows of dark blue carriages streaked with gold, to our cabin. Plush with muted refinement, this comfortable coupe was to be our home for the next seven days as we chugged across the western state of Maharashtra and briefly into Goa, discovering its many charms: golden beaches, enchanted backwaters, historic cities, grand monuments, heritage sites, ancient sea forts, prehistoric cave temples, modern wineries and more. The Deccan Odyssey pulled out of the station gracefully, as the Mumbai skyline, dominated by the grand Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus building (formerly Victoria Terminus) melted into the gathering dusk. After settling into our air-conditioned coupe (there are four in each carriage) with its twin beds, a closet, desk with laptop outlets, attached toilet and shower, we strolled down to the bar to toast a train that was three years in the making and has set new standards of excellence in rail travel and

tourism in India. Dinner was a delightful white-gloved affair that started with a creamy mushroom soup and ended with a sinfully tempting dessert. Back in our cabin, the beds were turned down and waiting for us to slip between crisp, clean sheets. Yes, the velvet touch of the Taj Group of Hotels, which looks after onboard catering and housekeeping, was evident. We awoke the following morning and had a quick shower and sumptuous breakfast. Soon, the train pulled into the quaint little station of Ukshi â&#x20AC;&#x201D; our launch pad to the little known, yet stunningly beautiful, Konkan Coast. A short ride in an air-conditioned coach brought us to Rai Jetty, from where we set out on a romantic backwater cruise. We purred down avenues of water whose banks, dotted with rural settlements, were hemmed in with rich vegetation. Our senses were assailed by the colour green in all its subtle shades and hues and the chatter of birds. Occasionally, local fishermen punted by in carved out canoes, casting their nets with the grace of dancers. We pulled up at the foot of Jaigad Fort and set out to explore

the ancient ramparts of this massive outpost. Rusted cannon, now long silent, trained their sights menacingly over the waterway across this stretch of the blue Arabian Sea. From here we drove down to the golden beaches of Ganpatipule. Tucked away at the far end of the sandy stretch was a temple dedicated to the elephant god Lord Ganesh. After feasting on a spread of Konkan cuisine, laced with tangy kokum and liberal in its use of coconut, we drove through rural countryside to Ratnadur Fort at Ratnagiri, home of the famous Alphonso mango. As the sun set, we lazed around at Bhatye beach, the gentle lapping of waves providing a quiet finale to what had been an eventful day. The Deccan Odyssey welcomed us back at Ratnagiri. We grabbed the opportunity to work up a good sweat at its on-board gym before retiring to our room to freshen up. A royal repast came next, followed by a nightcap at the bar as the train sliced through the star-speckled night towards Sindhudurg in the southern reaches of western Maharashtra. Alighting the next morning at Nagari station, we felt as if we had stepped out of a royal cocoon into the blaring chaos of everyday India. All was awash in bright blobs of colour and sound. We cut a swathe through vendors selling tea and local savouries, slipped into an

air-conditioned coach and headed for the town of Malvan. From here, we were ferried across to the Sindhudurg fort that surged out of a wrinkled blue Arabian Sea like a ghostly galleon. Ebony skinned boatmen punted us across a half kilometre stretch of water to a sandy beach at the foot of the 12-feet thick battlements that soared 30 feet into the sky. The old naval encampment had given way to a little village of 40 odd residents and numerous shrines tucked within the three kilometres of fortified walls. On a turret above its imposing main gate were the foot and hand imprints of Chhatrapati Shivaji, the Maratha warrior king, preserved in a slab of dry lime. The fort has the added distinction of housing the only temple dedicated to Shivaji. Later, standing on the beach at Tarkarli seven kilometres away, we were impressed with the clarity of the water around this pristine stretch of coastline. Behind us, the Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC) Beach Resort, comprising low-slung Konkani style cottages, retained a rustic feel by blending into rather than dominating its leafy surroundings. Here, we gorged on Malvani cuisine at a thatched beachfront restaurant and rested awhile in hammocks by the waterfront. This was the prelude to a lazy boat ride down the Karli river, fringed with rich green tropical vegetation. At Kalse jetty, on the far side of the waterway, a luxury coach ferried us down to Sawantwadi, where The Deccan Odyssey was waiting. This time around, we checked into the train's spa and 15

treated ourselves to a traditional ayurvedic oil massage. Old Goa, our next port of call, put on her best European face to greet us. Looking at the majestic old churches that dotted the old capital of the Portuguese rulers, the moniker 'Rome of the East' suddenly made sense. We were drawn, instinctively, to the Basilica of Bom Jesus, the red sandstone building containing the mortal remains of Old Goa's most celebrated resident — St Francis Xavier. The body of the saint, which refused to be corrupted even in death, was on display in a glass-panelled silver casket resting atop a memorial sculpted by the Italian artist Giovanni Batista Foggini of Florence in the late seventeenth century. We rifled through Goa's other treasures — Se Cathedral famous for its Growing Cross, the Church of St Francis of Assisi, which now houses the ASI museum, and the ruins of the Tower of St Augustine. We then strolled down to the riverfront dock, the same one where Portuguese galleons would drop sail, from where we were ferried to the mouth of the river. Lunch was at the Fort Aguada Beach Resort, the luxury hotel that launched Goa as an exotic destination. A languid cruise back and The Deccan Odyssey welcomed us once again. From here, she would swing north once more. We sat

back, glass of wine in hand, catching the world news on a flat-screen TV in the common lounge. The rhythmic rocking and sheer luxury induced peaceful sleep. Soon it was morning and we had pulled into Pune, the cultural capital of the state. After a whirlwind tour of the sights, which included a colourful local market and the Osho Ashram, the day ended with a stirring sound and light show that recreated the rise to power of the Peshwas and the establishment of the Maratha Empire. The ruins of the fortress like Shaniwarwada Palace provided a fitting backdrop to the dramatic story. As night fell, we were back on the train. Next stop — Aurangabad, a gateway to some of the finest artistic treasures of India. Our adventure started at Daulatabad Fort. Poised on the summit of an artificial cliff that was literally chiselled out of a mountain peak, the twelfth century structure was a stunning example of ingenious defence engineering that astonished us centuries after it was built. But it was at Ellora that we got to appreciate the true skill of those ancient craftsmen. It was they, after all, who sculpted 34 cave temples, between the sixth and thirteenth centuries, into the face of a crescent-shaped cliff. Ellora is an artistic confluence of three great Indian religions — Buddhism,

Cuisine

Chaat Busters Rahul Verma tries some Golgappas in Delhi,

Jhaal Muri in Bengal, Sev Puri in Mumbai and Aloo Tikki in Varanasi. Then, sated and happy, he decides there's no better snack in India than the ubiquitous chaat

PHOTOGRAPHS: PRAKASH ISRANI

EGENDS have a way of growing with children. If you were a youngster in Delhi, for instance, you couldn't have missed the story about a certain chaatwallah near a busy bus stop in town. The children who would swarm to him like pilgrims to a shrine always looked at him in awe. For they were told that he had made a fortune a palatial house in an up-market residential colony and a fleet of cars — selling chaat! I'm not surprised. Good for him, I say, wishing the same good fortune on all the other humble chaatwallahs who have given us a whole lot of pleasure over the years. May their tribe — and their fortunes (mythical or otherwise) — grow. Chaat, for the uninitiated, is India's answer to fast food. It is street food that has always been a part of life. A walk down any crowded street will reveal old men sneaking off from their evening walks for a quick plate, middle-aged women meeting friends over a lunch comprising chaat, children returning from school standing under a blazing sun for a second helping of that yummy plateful, and even young entrepreneurs jumping out of air-conditioned cars for a quick snack before a power lunch. The origins of the word are unclear, but I believe chaat is derived from the Hindi 'chatpatta,' which means spicy and tangy. Despite its many avatars, a chaat simply must be tangy. In foodie circles, this usually kicks up a lively debate. All foodies are convinced the chaat they have had in their backyard is the best in the country. Being a tolerant human being, I go by what the sages told us long years ago — to each his own. Not surprisingly, a chaat is a different thing to different people. In Mumbai, it can be a Bhel Puri; in eastern India, it's Jhaal Muri; in the north, it can be a plate of Tikki or Golgappas. The south has all kinds of delicious snacks, but few can fit the bill as chaat (The Dahi Vada — whose cousins can be found in the north and west — is an exception, with its own distinctive taste. But, more of that later).

The variety of chaat is astonishing. It could be a simple mix like Mumbai’s Sev Puri (opp. page) or something a lot more elaborate, like Kolkata’s Shaarey Bottish.

Colourful, fast to cook, extremely good to eat — that’s chaat for you

E VERY

REGION HAS ITS SPECIALITY . B UT THE HUB OF CHAAT IS UNDOUBTEDLY NORTHERN I NDIA , ESPECIALLY D ELHI AND V ARANASI . Decades ago, chaat was something to be had between lunch and dinner. Hawkers ferried different kinds of chaat around, mostly in earthen pots on their heads. Before dusk fell, their pots were empty and the chaatwallahs would disappear into the twilight. Today, there are restaurants and stalls that sell chaat alone and, in some cities, it has even taken the place of staid old wedding dinners. Every region has its speciality. But the hub of chaat is undoubtedly northern India, especially Delhi and Varanasi. A quick survey would tell us that the most popular is the Golgappa, known as the Phuchka in east India and Pani Puri in Mumbai. Seeing a hawker dole out Golgappas is like watching an artist at work. He brings out a Golgappa — a small rounded crispy puff made of semolina or wheat flour — makes a little hole in it with his thumb and fills it with a mixture of spiced chickpeas, sliced potatoes and a gingerbased chutney. It then goes into a pot of spicy water tempered with mint leaves and jaggery. Eating a Golgappa is no less an art. You take the stuffed puff, put the entire thing in your mouth and wait for it to burst into a rainbow of flavours. By the time you finish, the next one's ready. Have six or eight, drink a bowl of the spicy water and, for 52

many of us, this is as close as you get to Nirvana. Another popular chaat in the north is the Chaat Papri and Dahi Vada Pakori. A papri is a flat disc of wheat flour or semolina. It is dipped into a sweet- sour sauce and laid on a plate. Boiled chickpeas and roasted potatoes are then added, along with powered cumin, a dash of black salt and ground pepper. This is mixed with some yoghurt and topped with a sweet red and a tangy green chutney. A Dahi Vada or Pakodi is made with black lentils. The lentil is soaked, powdered and allowed to ferment. It is then shaped like a croissant, deep-fried and dipped in cold water. Before serving, the hawker takes out a vada, presses it between his hands to squeeze out the water, and adds his spices and chutneys. There are several variations of these. Some places are known for their roasted and spicy Potato Chaat. Another variation, especially popular with the trading community, is the Fruit Chaat — fruit cut into cubes and added to slices of potatoes fried on a metal griddle. Powdered masala and a pinch of castor sugar is added, along with some lemon. Voila! Ready to be eaten with a toothpick. One of my favourites is the Kulla, popular in the north. A whole boiled or roasted potato is taken

Cuisine

(top) Pav Bhaji — a favourite with Mumbai’s residents, any time, any place; (right) Few schoolchildren can resist the call of the chaatwallah.

and its top is sliced top off. A largish cavity is made in the middle by scooping and this is filled with green peas, chickpeas, tomatoes, masala and lemon juice. The top is then replaced and served as a whole, stuffed tuber. Another popular dish all over India is the Aloo Tikki — small potato patties stuffed with chick peas, shallow fried on a griddle and served with a green and a red chutney. One can't write about chaat and not mention the ubiquitous Samosa. This is a deep-fried triangle made of wheat flour and stuffed with boiled potatoes, peas, spices, green chillies and coriander leaves. In Bengal, where it is called a Shingara, the vegetables are not boiled but cooked in a pot and, often, small florets of cauliflower replace the potatoes. Some restaurants stuff their samosas with dry fruit, while others also use minced meat. The samosa is usually served with a green or red chutney. Some places in Uttar Pradesh have chaatwallahs who break samosas on plates and smother them with whipped yoghurt and a sweet-sour chutney. Why bother to make a delicate triangle if you're going to smash it anyway, you may well ask. Simply because many have believed, for generations, that its taste is enhanced by its shape. One of the nicest — and possibly easiest to make — street food is the Pakora (fritters). These are mostly made of vegetables such as potatoes, cauliflower, brinjal, onions and spinach. The vegetables are dipped in a powdered and lightly spiced gram batter and then deep-fried. In Bengal, the concept is carried a little further with Telebhaja, a literal translation of which is 'fried-in-oil'. Beguni, or 54

fried brinjal, is another chaat that particularly moves a Bengali. Pride of place, however, goes to Jhaal Muri — puffed rice pepped up with a host of ingredients. The role this has played in furthering the cause of romance on Bengal's streets cannot be undermined. Couples have sat together by lakes or in small patches of green for eons, comfortably munching Jhaal Muri. A variation is the Shaarey Bottish or '32-and-a-half' — a cutlet with muri and 32 known and unknown ingredients. The concept of half an ingredient has been lost in Bengal's past. If the local trains and lawns of the Victoria Memorial are the mainstay of street food in Bengal, the best chaat in Mumbai can be had by the sea. Hawkers here sell mouth-watering Bhel Puri and Sev Puri right through the year. The former is a mixture of puffed rice, chopped tomatoes, onions, potatoes and various types of sauces and chutneys topped by sev — crisp, fried noodles of gram flour. This is to be scooped and eaten with small discs called puris. The Sev Puri is a variation where, instead of puffed rice, the puris are smothered with slices of tomato, onions, potatoes and sauces. A Dahi Puri boasts the addition of yoghurt, or dahi, to the concoction. The list of chaats is unending, from Ghoogni in Bengal (boiled bengal gram served with little coconut pieces) to Dhoklas in Gujarat (made of fermented gram and rice flour and topped with green chillies and coriander). The best thing about a chaat though, is its price. It's a dish that everybody enjoys and can afford, ranging from Rs 5 at a stall to Rs 50 at a restaurant. For me, chaat is a slice of India. A little salty, somewhat sweet, a bit tangy. Quite like India. ■

Restaurants

The Chinese Have Landed

Rashmi Uday Singh licks her lips, puts on her apron and picks her favourite restaurants for Cantonese, Szechwan, Hunan and recommends the must visits

(left) Introduced by the ancient Chinese, Peking Duck was once served only at special events. Learning to prepare it well takes years to master. A must-try.

Here it is. My tribute to the most adaptable, sensitive, charmingly

chameleon-like, ego-less cuisine in the world. Chinese. The food that migrates to any part of the world and then proceeds to adopt the accent, vocabulary and flavours of the area, be it Mumbai or Melbourne, Berlin or Bangalore. As comfy in hallowed restaurants as it is in stalls by the road. Even restaurants respected for their special cuisine â&#x20AC;&#x201D; like Mumbai's legendary Trishna, for its Indian seafood â&#x20AC;&#x201D; offer a Chinese menu, and so do most fast food joints. Which is why we now have our very own Gujarati Chinese, Punjabi Chinese, South Indian Chinese and, well, Jain Chinese! I have, over the past two decades, kept an eye on how the cuisine has developed. And these restaurants, across India, are some of my favourite vantage points.

The right flavours dovetail with local preferences, be it the punch of the garlic in the Gin Chicken or the bite of chilli in the Cheun Chu Prawns MUMBAI

Golden Dragon

INDIA’S FIRST Schezwan restaurant has been reincarnated. The dragon has returned, stronger and more delightful than ever, with great elegance (including two private dining areas), plenty of wood and warm colours. Even the Chinese tea is more fragrant; the dim sums, more delightful. All served in unique white crockery and attention to the last detail. Conji Crispy Lamb, the famous Peking duck, Asparagus (imported Dutch) Cakes, stuffed Shitake Mushrooms, stringless Haricots imported from Kenya — Chef Shi Xi Lin has it all here for you. Beijing duck, Maryland crabs, over a 190 dishes on the menu. Chef Raghu serves up unerringly good veggie fare too. The Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder, Mumbai 400001. Tel: 56653366.

China Garden

WHO SAYS history doesn’t repeat itself? After shutting down his restaurant at Kemps Corner, the incredible chef-owner success story called Nelson Wang is back. This time, at Haji Ali. Chinese silk curtains, bronzes, antique gold and ivory finish chairs welcome you to this large new space at the Crossroads shopping mall. Nelson’s fans are delighted with the fact that the popular dishes taste just the same; they have just the right flavours that dovetail with local preferences. Be it the punch of garlic in the Gin Chicken or the bite of the chilli in the Cheun Chu Prawns. Full-bodied and brilliantly adapted. I prefer to stick to the superlative Sea Treasure menu and the fabulous value for money Imperial Banquet. Crossroads, 28, Pt M M Malviya Rd, Haji Ali, Mumbai 400034. Tel: 24955588 / 89 / 90.

We love it too...what is it about Chinese cuisine that attracts all kinds of foodies, across all ages and social strata? Ask the Kapoor clan (top) — with star sisters Karisma and Kareena — caught on camera at China Garden; (middle) The Roshans at China Garden; (above) The Great Wall at The Leela Kempinski.

The Great Wall

WALK IN and meet Ahchin, the ever-smiling manager. A great place to drop in for a meal when near the airport. Even otherwise, it has all it takes to make a great restaurant — master Chef Chew Beng Huat, special Chinese wine made of dragon eye grapes, and lots of festivals. Could anyone ask for more? Not me. All three styles (Cantonese, Szechwan, Hunan) are masterfully cooked and elegantly served. This is evident in the perfectly steamed Suimai, Red Snapper in Chilli, Crisp Lotus Paste Pancakes and more. Chef Huat believes in focusing on dishes for the Indian palate. Even the jasmine tea is fragrantly perfect. The Leela Kempinski, Sahar, Mumbai 400059. Tel: 56911234. Extn: 606 / 607.

Sampan

I ENJOY most things about this large and popular eatery. Its patterned ceiling, salmon pink tones, the sense of privacy on each table. Chef Pempa Tsering’s wok magic is legendary and he specially flies in ingredients from China. I have always had consistently good meals here, plump dim sums served with interesting sauces, spiced Chilli Pepper Prawns, masterfully cooked Chinese Greens and more. Sunil Dutt drops anchor regularly for the Ginger Chicken, Honey and Pan-fried Noodles. Jaya Bachchan enjoys Crispy Potatoes and Chicken Dumplings. Chef picks? Chilli Pepper Prawns and the Sampan Special Chicken. Holiday Inn, Juhu, Mumbai 400049. Tel: 56934444, 26704444. NEW-DELHI

Tea House of the August Mo on

NEVER THOUGHT the title of a Marlon Brando Broadway hit would be one of my favourite Chinese restaurants in the capital, but it is. For several reasons: Canopies with Chinese dragons and an elevated pagoda over a goldfish pond make for an interesting ambience. Out of its vast menu of 150 dishes, the dim sum, Kung Fu Scallops, Stir Fried Veggies and Spicy Honey Chicken are the hot sellers. Chef La Ka Yam weaves his magic with Sharks Fin Abalone, Crispy Spinach and more. Taj Palace Hotel, 2 Sardar Patel Marg, New Delhi 110021. Tel: 011-26110202.

Imperial Garden

MUMBAI’S BABA Ling has conquered the Dilli-wallas palate and wallet. His incomparable seafood is served in a twin-levelled, elegant yet simple, restaurant. Head for a variety of freshly flown-in seafood. From baby abalone to superb crab and lobster, sliced fish, sugarcane prawns and more. E 3 Local shopping centre, Masjid Moth, New Delhi 110044. Tel: 011- 26477798 / 26437288. 34

(top) Chef Pampa with his creations at Sampan; (above) With some of the many guests who love coming back for more.

pains to ensure the authenticity of the food. Study the a la carte dinner menu with its tracings of maps, request the maitre de to guide you and enjoy the cutlery and Chang Mei containers. Check out the buffet lunch, the Peking duck, Crispy Spinach with Sesame Seeds and Green Chillies, Salt and Pepper Prawns. And do sip on some Chinese tea served out of an ornate gold teapot. Shanghai Club, Chola Sheraton, Cathedral Road, Chennai 600086. Tel: 044-28110101. KOLKATA

Chinoiserie

THINK OF Kolkata and the home-style Cantonese eateries of Tangra come to mind. While I have enjoyed some of those, it’s been a while since I’ve been back. What I remember for its elegant décor, attentive service and Schezwan food is the Taj Bengal’s Chinoiserie. Here, master Chef Xiong Yi Wen (a graduate of the Sichuan Catering College) conjures up Prawns in Red Chilly Sauce, Spicy Diced Chicken chong ging Style, Dan Dan Noodles and more. Do make a note of the little bomb symbol placed next to the spicy dishes. Enjoy! Taj Bengal, 34/B, Belvedere Road, Alipore, Kolkata 70027. Tel: 033-22233939. BANGALORE

Mainland China

I AM happy to report that this, India’s only Chinese restaurant chain, has a consistency of standards that it keeps to in all branches. Elegant ambience and spacious settings. And as I’ve eaten at all their restaurants, I can safely stick my neck out and say so. Anjan Chatterjee and his team are a dedicated, hard-driven lot and, together with Chef Rajesh Dubey who masterminds the menus, they have a winner on their hands. Spicy Szechwan food, subtle and bland Cantonese dishes, robust Hunan gravies and some inventive Fukien food too. Go for the Crackling Spinach, steamed seafood, stir-fried veggies and wind up with Toffee Walnut. Unit 1&2, 15/16 House of Lords, St. Marks Rd., Bangalore 560001. Tel: 080-2297872.

Szechwan Court

(top) At the Chinoiserie and (above) Bangalore’s famous Szechwan Court.

CHENNAI

Shanghai Club

WALK RIGHT into this lobby-level handsome restaurant, past the tall sculptures, and zero in on Chinese chef Yang Jiayu’s food. He not only hand picks his raw materials but also takes 36

TUCKED AWAY, just off the lobby of the Oberoi hotel, this handsome restaurant is overseen by Chef Fu Chiang Lee. Vegetarians will be delighted to note that Chef Lee has enlarged the menu substantially. Tofu in Szechwan Sauce, Mixed Vegetables with Crisp Rice and Brocolli with Fresh Mushrooms are hot sellers. Go for the Sliced Pomfret with Chilli Bean Sauce or the Lamb in Hot Broad Bean Sauce. I also found milder styles from Hunan, Canton and Peking. The Oberoi, 37–39 Mahatma Gandhi Rd. Bangalore 560001. Tel: 080-585858. ■

Global Indian

DAKS

BAD MAN

MAKES GOOD "I can't afford to buy Arnold Schwarzenegger any cigars. He smokes a very expensive brandâ&#x20AC;Ś" Yes, notes Dinesh Raheja, from playing eternal villain of the Indian film industry to hobnobbing with Hollywood's biggest, Gulshan Grover has come a long way

THERE'S SOMETHING PHOENIX-like about Gulshan Grover; the way he rises from the ashes every time sceptics declare his career is over. When he set his sights on Hollywood, his colleagues probably shook their heads in disbelief, but Gulshan was undeterred. He firmly believed national laurels weren't enough. International fame beckoned. Today, Gulshan has put behind him the role of chief villain in The Second Jungle Book, along with important roles in Air Panic and East Side. Coming up next is Beeper, with Harvey Keitel in the lead. What has this success meant to you, Gulshan? Excerpts from an interview. 40

What drew you to Hollywood? It's a logical growth process. A sportsman moves from the college level to state to national to an international level. But this progression wasn't happening in the case of entertainment here. Unfortunately, no Indian film star thought of taking his or her craft to the next level. Also, offers coming in from the West for Indian actors always went to those with a serious, film festival outlook. I had reached a stage in my life when I felt I needed to take my career to the next level. Even if an actor becomes as popular as Shah Rukh Khan is in India, he can't be

as big in, say, New York. I may get out of a limo and have fans screaming for me, but the security guard will insist on stopping me and checking for identification. This doesn't happen to Michael Jackson. Which is why I decided to give Hollywood a shot. On shows abroad, while others would go to Miami, I would take a flight to Los Angeles and network with people who matter. I showed them my work and hired an agent — a must in the West. Did the networking help? I was offered two films, Dear God, and Eddie, with Whoopi Goldberg. I refused Dear God because the role was completely against the image I wanted to portray. I turned down Eddie too. I had worked hard on perfecting my English accent. I wanted to wait for the right role. It was a gamble that paid off. I got my first role in a mega movie called The Second Jungle Book, where I played Mowgli's villainous uncle, Baldev. When I went to meet the director, Duncan McLachlan, I bumped into him just as he was coming out of the rest room. I didn't even have the time to comb my hair or spruce myself up. His instant reaction was, 'My God, you have a classic Indian face with big eyes and I was dying to meet you.' He offered me the main villain's role right there!" That must have set the ball rolling. Yes, but not before a few hiccups. After a month of being finalised, I received a fax stating that the distributor was insisting on casting an American actor. They would rather paint him dark and make him look like an Indian. I was heartbroken and had a major fight with God. Suddenly, the phone rang. A man who identified himself as Peter Shepherd, the line producer of The Second Jungle Book, said, 'After shooting with the American actor for a day, the director was convinced they were making a mistake. He wants his original choice — the shifty-eyed Indian actor — for the role.'

Global Indian

DAKS

"M Y

BEST IS YET TO COME .

IT'S A FILM CALLED B EEPER WITH H ARVEY K EITEL AND J OEY A DAMS ." worked in Terminator 3. I played the role of Dr Phillip, an American of Indian origin. My best is yet to come though. It's a film called Beeper with Harvey Keitel and Joey Adams. Have any of your Hollywood projects managed an Indian release? None so far. But now that Columbia Tristar and 20th Century Fox have opened offices in Mumbai, I'm sure my forthcoming films will.

What were the reviews for the film like? It got some bad reviews; critics tore it apart. Nobody invited me or informed me about the release, but I jumped on a plane and landed up at The Third Street Promenade in LA to see the film. After the show, I was surrounded by children. They said they loved the shot in which my character was sent flying out of the cannon by chimpanzees. I knew I had become a globally recognised name when Columbia Tristar flew me down to Las Vegas to release the DVD and I shared the same platform as Salma Hayek. Soon after Jungle Book, I played an assassin in East Side, starring Latino heartthrob Mario Lopez. The film was shot on the streets of Los Angeles. The came Air Panic, one of my more important films. It starred Kistanna Loken, who later 42

FAST FACTS

Have you struck a rapport with any Hollywood stars? Steven Segal is a very good friend of mine. At times, I even stay at his house. Goldie Hawn is a dear friend too. I was the Executive Producer of a film she was producing. Goldie loves India. I know Arnold Schwarzenegger very well too. He is dependable, honest, sincere, charming, entertaining and very humorous. He is extremely fond of cigars and healthy food. I can't afford to gift him his brand of cigars though, as they are very expensive. I would rather take him a T-shirt.

I WAS BORN ON: September 16. IN THE YEAR: That's for you to find out. HOW EDUCATED AM I: I was, at one point, the most literate Indian actor. I scored 92 per cent in my M.Com Part I at the Sriram College of Commerce, Delhi. FAMILY MATTERS: I am twice divorced. My only son, Sanjay, is 18. WHEN OUTSIDE INDIA, I LIKE: Sitting in open cafes and watching the sunset. I FELT I HAD ARRIVED WITH THE FILM: Sohini Mahiwal, which starred Sunny Deol and Poonam Dhillon.

Which Indian actress, according to you, could stand a good chance in Hollywood? Aishwarya Rai. Given your years of travel, is there a particular journey that stands out? I remember a ride in an open-roofed bus in London with my son and my sister. We were driven through the streets with a well-informed guide filling us in on details I would never have learnt otherwise. I can't forget my trip to the Eiffel Tower either because, while my wife and I stood in a queue to buy a ticket, a busload of people who had arrived from Chicago and New York mobbed me. They went crazy, clicking photographs and asking me for my autograph. After days of being unrecognised, I was happy to receive so much adulation. â&#x2013;

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X`pWpZO Xuõ \qN{O dSu@‚ OrP{ ∫P[ dpG Wr dTSu TqZ\<O{O SpXpuõ _u <\ XpS `võ ! eSXuõ Tu`\p (TwPtQ@‚), @v‚P[ (@‚<T∫P[), TsL>Zr (TszL>Zr), _puSrTO (∫\N{T}∫P)_U‚√Qpu (_T{QXS), ZpuÒ@‚ (Zpu<`<O@‚), @‚ZSp[ (@‚N{Op[), X`X (X<`´PX), J>pu`pSp (Opu^pYS), <_Z_p (]vZr^@‚), GBpRZr (YsBÆRZ) dp<Q T}XsA `võ $ `qZYpNp @u‚ @‚ZSp[, TpSrTO, d≥Vp[p, SpZSpv[, @s‚‘bum dpvZ Zu\pÊr dp<Q SBZ hu<O`p<_@‚ Ys–puõ @u‚ _pbr `võ $ TsZpO´\ @‚√ Qw<πJ> _u Wr `qZYpNp h@‚ _Xw– T}Qu] Z`p `v $ Y`pz @u‚ XrOpP[ VNp\[r, Qpv[OTsZ, WB\pSTsZ dpvZ ApuAZp@‚puJ> dp<Q ∫PpSpuõ Xuõ TsZpOS @‚p[ @u‚ d_z¢Y d\]u^ <X[Ou Zù `võ $ Ytz Opu `qZYpNp T}Qu] @‚p @‚N-@‚N TY{J>S @‚√ Qw<πJ> _u Q]{SrY `v $ [uq@‚S XpS\rY ‘<EYpuõ dpvZ _v[p<SYpuõ @‚√ _s<\RpSs_pZ eS@‚p \N{ <S≥S<[<AO T}XsA ∫P[puõ @u‚ ’‚T Xuõ @‚Z _@‚Ou `võ $ T}XsA OrP{ ∫P[ # @s‚‘bum - `qZYpNp T}Qu] @‚p dÆO{ZpπJ~>rY ∫OZ TZ TÈpS ZASu \p[p Y` OrP{∫P[ ZpπJ~>rY ZpGXpB{ S. ë TZ TrT[r SpX@‚ ∫PpS _u OrS q@‚[puXrJ>Z TZ ˘∫PO `v $ Zu[ ÃpZp <Q∂[r-d≥Vp[p [peS TZ @s‚‘bum T}XsA Zu[\u ∫J>u]S `v $ <Q∂[r _u flZ Xuõ ëñê q@‚[puXrJ>Z dpuZ, d≥Vp[p _u Q<bN @‚√ dpuZ îê q@‚[puXrJ>Z @‚√ QtZr TZ ˘∫PO `v @s‚‘bum $ `qZYpNp h@‚ hu_p T}Qu] `v G`pz _v@‚Êpuõ @‚√ _z¢Yp Xuõ OrP{ ∫PpS `võ $ <GSXuõ @s‚‘bum T}XsA `v dpvZ @s‚‘bum @‚√ EEp{ @u‚ <VSp `qZYpNp @‚√ EEp{ dRtZr ZùBr $ RX{bum @s‚‘bum @‚√ Tp\S RZp TZ `r WB\pS kr @w‚πN Su BrOp @‚p dXZ _zQu] <QYp Pp $ e_r T<\m RZOr TZ \uQ, TsZpNpuõ, X`pWpZO, fT<S^Qpuõ dpvZ dÆY Tp\S B}ÆPpuõ @‚√ ZESp `se{ $ @s‚‘bum @‚√ îò @‚pu_ @‚√ Wt<X Xuõ ˘∫PO [BWB ìñê OrP{∫P[puõ @‚p _zVzR X`pWpZO @‚p[ _u `v $ X`pWpZO @u‚ Ys–bum dpvZ BrOp @‚√ GÆX∫P[r @s‚‘bum Xuõ Qu]WZ _u `r S`rõ, <\Qu]puõ _u Wr d_z¢Y OrP{ Ypmr dpvZ TY{J>@‚ \^{ WZ Y`pz dpOu ZÒu `võ $ @s‚‘bum dpvZ f_@u‚ <S@‚J> bum Xuõ OrPpu| @‚√ h@‚ <\∫OwO kwzA[p `v, <GSXuõ V}ÿ_Zpu\Z, _<ÆS<Ò _Zpu\Z, ßYpu<O_Z, VpN BzBp, EÆÈ@t‚T, Sp<W@‚X[, BrOp W\S, BrOp Xz<QZ dp<Q ∫PpS Rp<X{@‚ dp∫Pp \ Q]{SrY ∫P[puõ @u‚ ’‚T Xuõ T}<_– `võ $ @s‚‘bum ˘∫PO kr @w‚πN _zB}`p[Y Xuõ WB\pS kr @w‚πN @u‚ Gr\S @u‚ <\<WÆS T}_zBpuõ h\z X`pWpZO @‚√ X`´\TtN{ CJ>Spdpuõ @‚pu Q]p{Yp BYp `v $ TpzE @‚ZpuÊ @‚√ [pBO _u VSp @s‚‘bum TvSpuZXp h\z <\cpS @u‚ÆÈ TY{J>@‚puõ @u‚ dp@‚^{N @‚p @u‚ÆÈ <VÆQs VSp `sdp `v $ _tY{B}`N @u‚ d\_Z TZ [pApuõ @‚√ _z¢Yp Xuõ kRp[s @s‚‘bum @u‚ Tp\S _Zpu\Zpuõ Xuõ Ls>V@‚√ [Bp @‚Z Ts™Y [pW TpOu `võ $ @u‚ÆÈrY TY{J>S <\WpB ÃpZp dV ìê @‚ZpuÊ _u d<R@‚ @‚√ YpuGSpdpuõ TZ @‚pYp{Z≥W `puSu _u @s‚‘bum OrP{ @‚pu d<R@‚p<R@‚ dp@‚^{@‚ dpvZ dÆOZp{˝~>rY TÈpS QuSu @‚p @‚pY{ dpZ≥W `pu Es@‚p `v $ T}pErS @‚p[ @u‚ T<\m ∫PpSpuõ @u‚ _pP-_pP @s‚‘bum @‚p SpX <]bp @u‚ h@‚ dpRs<S@‚ @u‚ÆÈ @s‚‘bum <\∏\<\ p[Y @u‚ _pP Wr GsÊp `Ídp `v $ ëôñï Xuõ _z∫@w‚O <\∏\<\ p[Y @u‚ ’‚T Xuõ dpZ≥W `Ídp Y` @u‚ÆÈ dV <]bp h\z _pz∫@w‚<O@‚ B<O<\<RYpuõ @‚p T}XsA @u‚ÆÈ VS Es@‚p `v $ TY{J>@‚puõ dpvZ OrP{Yp<mYpuõ @u‚ K>`ZSu @u‚ <[h @s‚‘bum Xuõ d_z¢Y RX{]p[pdpuz @u‚

d<OqZ°O `qZYpNp TY{J>S <\WpB ÃpZp <S<X{O [r[@z‚K> kr@w‚πNRpX Ypmr <S\p_, ßYpu<O_Z @‚p≥T[v°_ Gv_u f•E ∫OZrY _s<\Rp Ys°O W\S Opu `võ `r, _pP `r YtP `px∫J>[ h_pu<]h]S ÃpZp <S<X{O YtP `px∫J>[ Wr K`>ZSu @‚p fTYs°O ∫PpS `v $ hu<O`p<_@‚ dpvZ TsZpOp˘´\@‚ Qw<πJ> _u VSp f´@w‚πJ> ]uA Eù[r @‚p X@‚VZp Wr TY{J>@‚puõ @‚pu VZV_ dTSr dpuZ ArõESu @‚r bXOp ZAOp `v $ _tU‚√ XO @u‚ T}<_– _zO ]uA Eù[r Y\S _X}pJ> ]p`G`pz @u‚ _X@‚p[rS Pu $ Y` WpZO _Z@‚pZ @u‚ TsZpO´\ <\WpB ÃpZp _zZ<bO hu<O`p<_@‚ ∫PpS `v $ Tu`\p - @s‚‘bum _u [BWB îê q@‚.Xr. QtZ XpuJ>Z XpB{ TZ ˘∫PO h<O`p<_@‚ TwPtQ@‚ `r Tu`\p `v $ _Z∫\Or @u‚ OJ> TZ T}<O\^{ Evm @w‚πNp EOsQ{]r dpvZ dXp\∫Yp @‚pu Y`pz <\]p[ Xu[p [BOp `v $ <Tmpuõ @‚pu <T™L>QpS q@‚Yp GpOp `v $ @‚Tp[ XpuES - @s‚‘bum-SZ\pSp V}pzE [peS TZ ˘∫PO e_ Tp\S OrP{ @‚pu @‚<T[Xs<S @‚√ OTpuWt<X @‚`p GpOp `v $ Y`pz ˘∫PO @‚<T[Xs<S OrP{ dpvZ @‚<T[u∏\Z X`pQu\ @‚p Xz<QZ Rp<X{@‚ OPp T}pErSOp @‚√ Qw<πJ> _u <\]u^ X`´\ ZAOp `v $ <VSp EtSu-<X∆>r @u‚ Xpm e{J>puõ _u VSu e_ Xz<QZ @‚√ TsZpOp˘´\@‚ ]v[r @u‚ @‚pZN e_@‚p ZA-ZAp\ WpZOrY TsZpOp˘´\@‚ <\WpB @‚ZOp `v $ eS@u‚ d<OqZ°O GrÆQ, VuZr, @‚p[@‚p TzE@s‚[p, dB}pu`p, M>pu_r (SpZSpv[) ZpSr[p (<W\pSr), BsÊBpz\, dp<Q bum Wr Rp<X{@‚ dp∫Pp @u‚ T}XsA @u‚ÆÈ `võ, G`pz _XY-_XY TZ Xu[puõ @‚p dpYpuGS `puOp ZÒp `v $ T}p@w‚<O@‚ ∫P[ # YpQ\uÆÈ BpL>{S <TõGpvZ - @‚∏XrZ @u‚ ]p[rXpZ VpB dpvZ Xv_tZ @u‚ \wzQp\S BpL>{S @‚√ ]v[r Xuõ <S<X{O <TõGpvZ @‚p f pS `qZYpNp @u‚ Q]{SrY ∫P[puõ Xuõ T}XsA `v $ E™L>rBÁ _u íí q@‚[puXrJ>Z @‚√ QtZr TZ <]\p<[@‚ @‚√ fTÝ@‚p Xuõ ˘∫PO T}p@w‚<O@‚ ∫P[ @‚pu _X}pJ> dpvZzBGuV @u‚ h@‚ <S@‚J> _zVzRr Su e_u _sÆQZ f pS @‚p ’‚T <QYp, Opu `qZYpNp TY{J>S <\WpB Su e_Xuõ SYSp<WZpX ZzBrS U‚∑\pZu, <Elp@‚^{@‚ [peJ>puõ @‚√ Zpu]Sr _u TY{J>@‚puõ @‚pu h@‚ `r SGZ Xuõ Wp GpSu \p[p VSp <QYp $ Y`pz K>`ZSu @u‚ <[h \pOpSs@t‚<[O @‚XZpuõ _u _s_<ÉO W∑Y _s<\Rphz

fT[±R `võ $ Y`pz @‚p ]r]X`[, ZzBX`[, G[X`[ dpvZ Vp\Êr V`sO Q]{SrY `võ $ e_@u‚ <S@‚J> `r <TõGpvZ @‚p TsZpSp q@‚[p TsZpO´\ @‚p @u‚ÆÈ `v, Opu C<ÊYpuõ dpvZ dpv pu<B@‚ fT@‚ZNpuõ @‚p _sT}<_– @‚pZApSp hE.hX.J>r. Wr QuASu Ypu£Y `v $ XpuZSr <`∂_ - `qZYpNp @‚p <]X[p SpX _u T}<_– E™L>rBÁ _u îï q@‚[puXrJ>Z @‚√ QtZr TZ _XsÈO[ _u [BWB î `GpZ Us‚J> @‚√ gy‚Epe{ TZ ëòê \B{ q@‚[puXrJ>Z Xuõ Uv‚[p Y` ZXNr@‚ ∫P[ `v $ dR{EÆÈp@‚pZ Xuõ AÊu T\{O <]AZpuõ _u <CZu e_ ∫P[ @‚√ ]puWp Qpu T}p@w‚<O@‚ _Zpu\Zpuõ Su QsBsSr @‚Z Qr `v $ TY{J>@‚puõ @u‚ <[h Y`pz [pu@‚ <SXp{N <\WpB ÃpZp <S<X{O <\kpX ∫P[ dpvZ [p[ Xs<SYp SpX@‚ TY{J>S @u‚ÆÈ `võ $ VÊA[ Hr[ - @‚`Su @‚pu <Q∂[r _u ìê q@‚.Xr. @‚√ QtZr TZ `v, [uq@‚S \p∫O\ Xuõ <Q∂[r _u _J>r `se{ `v T}p@w‚<O@‚ TY{J>S ∫P[ VÊA[ Hr[ $ <Q∂[r-dpBZp Xs¢Y XpB{ _u GZp-_p `J>@‚Z e_ XSpuZX TY{J>@‚ ∫P[ TZ _v[p<SYpuõ @‚p OpzOp [Bp Z`Op `v $ Spv@‚pYS dpvZ XF>[r @‚p <]@‚pZ @‚ZSu \p[puõ @‚pu <\]u^ ’‚T _u [sWpOp `v Y` ∫PpS $ Y`pz Wr K>`ZSu @u‚ <[h flX _s<\Rphz fT[±R `võ $ _tZG@s‚™L> - e{_p @‚√ _pO\rõ ]Op±Qr Xuõ <S<X{O dR{Bpu[p@‚pZ dp@w‚<O Xuõ VSr [≥Vr TpuqL>Ypuõ Ys°O T}p@w‚<O@‚ @s‚™L> @‚pu _tZG@s‚™L> SpX <QYp BYp `v $ VÊA[ Hr[ _u Xpm ó q@‚.Xr. @‚√ QtZr TZ <Q∂[r _u TtN{O# _J>r e_ T}p@w‚<O@‚ ∫P[puõ TZ T}´Yu@‚ \^{ U‚Z\Zr Xp` Xuõ [BSu \p[p dÆOZp{πJ~>rY @}‚pU‚J> Xu[p dpG <\∏\ XpS<Em TZ dTSp ∫PpS VSp Es@‚p `v $ WpZOrY `∫O@‚[p dpvZ _z∫@w‚<O @u‚ e_ \p<^{@‚ @s‚≥W Xuõ dpSu \p[u Qu]r-<\Qu]r TY{J>@‚puõ @‚√ _z¢Yp [pApuõ O@‚ T`szE Es@‚√ `v $ Y` ∫PpS T}@w‚<O @‚p dStK>p @u‚ÆÈ G`pz K>`ZSu @‚√ f•E ∫OZrY _Wr _s<\Rphz _SVL>{, `<X{J>uG dpvZ `puJ>[ ZpG`z_ Gv_u ∫PpSpuõ TZ _`G `r fT[±R `pu _@‚Or `v $ _pu`Sp - <Q∂[r-Zu\pÊr-GYTsZ XpB{ TZ <Q∂[r _u ïñ q@‚[puXrJ>Z @‚√ QtZr TZ ˘∫PO _pu`Sp dTSu T}p@w‚<O@‚ BX{ TpSr @u‚ _}puOpuõ @u‚ <[h GpSp GpOp `v $ Bpu[p@‚pZ X˘ÆQZ @u‚ SrEu VSu eS dpv^<RYs°O BX{ TpSr @u‚ E∏Xpuõ Xuõ QtZ-QtZ _u dp@‚Z [puB ∫SpS @‚ZOu `võ $ hu_r Wr XpÆYOp `v q@‚ Y`pz ∫SpS @‚ZSu _u dSu@‚ EX{ ZpuB QtZ `pu GpOu `võ $ TY{J>@‚puõ @u‚ <[h Y` ∫PpS Wr dp@‚^{@‚ `puOp Gp Z`p `v $ dO# fS@‚√ _s<\Rp @u‚ <[h Y`pz RX{]p[p Opu `v `r, _pP `r VpZVrJ> SpX@‚ TY{J>S @u‚ÆÈ Wr `v, G`pz fÇ ∫OZrY _s<\Rphz fT[±R `võ $

_s[OpSTsZ Hr[ - `qZYpNp @u‚ <G[p BsÊBpz\ Xuõ <Q∂[r _u Xpm îñ q@‚.Xr. @‚√ QtZr TZ ˘∫PO `v T}\p_r T<bYpuõ @‚p T}p@w‚<O@‚ dpZpXBp` _s[OpSTsZ Hr[ $ Y`pz _<Q{Ypuõ @u‚ dpZ≥W Xuõ [BWB _≥TtN{ YtZpu<TYS Qu]puõ, flZr ’‚_, XöY h<]Yp, dU}‚r@‚p dpvZ dp∫J~>u<[Yp Gv_u ZpπJ~>puõ @u‚ `GpZpuõ Tbr dTSu XSXpu`@‚ ZzBpuõ dpvZ @‚N{<T}Y ∫\Zpuõ @u‚ dp@‚^{N @‚p @u‚ÆÈ VSOu `võ $ `Zu TuÊpuõ @u‚ HsZXsJ>, _CS Hp<ÊYpz, <\∫OwO Op[pV dpvZ ]pÆO \pOp\ZN $ eS T}\p_r T<bYpuõ @u‚ <[h _s[OpSTsZ Hr[ \ÆY T}pNr <\`pZ _V_u Qs[{W dpvZ T}p@w‚<O@‚ ]ZN∫P[r `v $ Tbr T}u<XYpuõ @u‚ <[h Y`pz <S<X{O Ts∫O@‚p[Y Wr X`´\TtN{ GpS@‚pqZYpz QuOp `v $ Y`pz K>`ZSu @u‚ <[h TY{J>S <\WpB ÃpZp <S<X{O VL>{ _uõEsZr SpX _u TY{J>@‚ @u‚ÆÈ Wr _Wr _s<\Rpdpuõ _u TqZTtN{ `v $

WpZOrY _z∫@w‚<O dpvZ _≤YOp @u‚ T[Su `qZYpNp @u‚ e<O`p_ @‚pu WpZO @‚p e<O`p_ @‚`p Gph Opu @‚pue{ d<O]Ypuq°O S `puBr $

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hu<O`p<_@‚ ∫P[# TpSrTO - Xs˘∫[X ]p_@‚puõ @‚√ OrS e<O`p_ T}<_– [ÊpeYpuõ @‚p _pbr TpSrTO <Q∂[r-d≥Vp[p ZpGXpB{ S.ë TZ <Q∂[r _u ôê q@‚.Xr. QtZ ˘∫PO `v $ Zu[ XpB{ @‚p T}XsA Zu[\u ∫J>u]S Wr Y`pz `v $ TpSrTO @‚√ OrSpuõ [ÊpeYpuõ @‚√ ∫Xw<O @‚pu VSph ZASu @u‚ <[h Y`pz h@‚ _zB}`p[Y Wr VSpYp BYp `v $ Y`pz @‚√ X˘∫GQ dpvZ ]p` @‚[ÆQZ @‚p X@‚VZp TpvZp<N@‚ W\S <SXp{N @‚pv][ @‚p dStK>p SXtSp `v $ Y` `qZYpNp @‚√ _V_u VÊr g‚S X™L>r Wr `v $ Y`pz @u‚ g‚Sr @‚≥V[ <\Qu]puõ O@‚ GpOu `võ $ d≥Vp[p - T}XsA Zu[ Gz°]S `v $ _uSp @‚√ T}XsA F>p\Sr dpvZ <\cpS @u‚ _pXpS <SXp{N @‚p f´@w‚πJ> @u‚ÆÈ `v $ Y`pz @‚p T}pErS @‚p[r\pÊr OPp _SpOS RX{ _Wp @‚p X˘ÆQZ <\]u^ Q]{SrY `v $ <\cpS @u‚ _pXpSpuõ @‚p T}XsAOp _u f´TpQS `puSu _u Y` h@‚ <\∏\∫OZrY VpGpZ @u‚ ’‚T Xuõ Wr <\@‚<_O `pu Es@‚p `v Zpu`O@‚ - T}pErS \vW\ @‚pu _XuJ>u <Q∂[r _u Xpm óê q@‚.Xr. @‚√ QtZr TZ Zu[ dpvZ _Ê@‚ XpB{ _u GsÊp Zpu`O@‚ <]bp @‚p dSsTX @u‚ÆÈ `v $ Y`pz ˘∫PO Bpu@‚N{ Op[pV, Bpu@‚Nu{∏\Z X`pQu\ @‚p Xz<QZ, VGZzB W\S, QsBp{ Xz<QZ Rp<X{@‚ dp∫Pp _u dpuOT}puO `v, Opu e_@u‚ <S@‚J>

huqO`pq_@ \J - \wb qG_@u SrEu WB\pS @wπN Su dGxwS @ pu BrOp @ p _zQu] qQYp Pp$ e_ TZ Tbr S VvKu e_ q[h e_u Gpn _u Á@ ZAp `v

V_u ∫P[ Vpu`Z @‚pu SpP _≥T}QpY @‚p T}XsA @u‚ÆÈ `puSu @‚p BpvZ\ T}pØO `v $ Y`pz ˘∫PO XK> T}pErS \vW\ dpvZ Wq°O-]q°O @u‚ @u‚ÆÈ XpSu GpOu `võ $ X`<^{ QYpSÆQ <\∏\<\ p[Y, Tz. WB\O QYp[ ]Xp{ Tr.Gr. XuqL>@‚[ @‚p[uG, d∫P[ Vpu`Z ˘∫PO L>uõJ>[ @‚p[uG @u‚ d<OqZ°O Qpu QG{S _u d<R@‚ ∫SpO@‚-∫SpO@‚pulZ X`p<\ p[Ypuõ @‚√ <\∫OwO kzwA[p _u Y` SBZ <]bp @‚p T}XsA @u‚ÆÈ XpSp GpOp `v <`_pZ - <Q∂[r _u ëñê q@‚.Xr. QtZ ZpπJ~>rY ZpGXpB{ ëê dpvZ Zu\pÊr-WqJ>õL>p Zu[ XpB{ @‚p T}XsA Gz°]S Zu[\u ∫J>u]S <`õ_pZ hu<O`p<_@‚ SBZ `v $ Y`pz @‚p _sT}<_– hu<O`p<_@‚ q@‚[p dpvZ f_@u‚ XöY Xuõ ˘∫PO BsGZr X`[ TsZpO´\ X`´\ ZAOu `võ $ @w‚<^ <\cpS @‚p Xs¢Y <]bN @u‚ÆÈ Epv. EZN<_õ` @w‚<^ <\∏\<\ p[Y Qu] Xuõ dTSp dB}Nr ∫PpS ZAOp `v $ _pP `r Y`pz ˘∫PO T]s RS-U‚pX{ Wr WpZO @‚p _\pu{lX U‚pX{ `v $ Y`pz @u‚ _tdZ Tp[S dpvZ A•EZ Tp[S @u‚ÆÈ Qu]-<\Qu]puõ Xuõ T}XsAOp _u <BSu GpOu `võ $ f»>YS T}u<XYpuõ @u‚ <[h £[peL>Z fÊpS _z∫PpS Wr QuASu Ypu£Y `v $ `p[ `r Xuõ <S<X{O Bs‘ G≥Vu∏\Z <\∏\<\ p[Y O@‚Sr@‚√ <]bp @u‚ @‚pZN Qu] @u‚ <]AZ TZ <\ XpS `v $ eS@u‚ d<OqZ°O @‚ZSp[, _puSrTO, BsÊBpz\, U‚ZrQpVpQ, <_Z_p, <W\pSr, YXsSpSBZ, HÉZ dp<Q SBZ Wr hu<O`p<_@‚ dpvZ dpv pu<B@‚ @u‚ÆÈpuõ @u‚ ’‚T Xuõ GpSu GpOu `võ $ `qZYpNp Qu] @‚p T`[p hu_p ZpßY `v, G`pz T}Ýu@‚ Bpz\ O@‚ T°@‚√ _Ê@‚ dpvZ <VG[r T`szE Es@‚√ `v $ `qZYpNp h@‚ B}pXrN T}RpS ZpßY `v dO# T}Qu] @‚√ [pu@‚ @‚[p, _z∫@w‚<O \ _p<`Ý @‚p dQoWsO _XÆ\Y Y`pz @u‚ Bpz\puõ Xuõ TqZ[<bO `puOp `v $ `qZYpN\r [pu@‚ _zBrO, [pu@‚ SwÝ, BpYS, \pQS dpvZ _zBrO TZ≥TZp V`sO _Xw– Z`r `v $ Y`pz @u‚ [pu@‚SwÝpuõ Xuõ _p\S @‚√ Us‚`pZ, \p_ÆOr VYpZ, U‚_[ Vsdpe{-@‚J>pe{, SpZr @‚p f∂[p_, Ts‘^ @‚p `p_, Vp[XS @‚√ BsQBsQr dpvZ U‚pBsS @‚√ X∫Or _Wr @‚p Op[Xu[ QuAOu `r VSOp `v $ U‚pB, M>U‚, Apu<ÊYp, [tZ, CtXZ, HtXZ, VrS dp<Q SwÝpuõ @‚√ XSpu`pZr TZ≥TZp `v $ M>pu[, Op_u, SBpÊp, SpvVO, HpzHXzGrZu, VrS-Vpz_[r, M>u’‚-M>U‚[r Gv_u @‚N{<T}Y \p YÆm eS [pu@‚BrOpuõ dpvZ [pu@‚ SwÝpuõ @‚pu XÆmXs£R @‚ZSu \p[r bXOp T}QpS @‚ZOu `võ $ `qZYpNp T}Qu] @‚p GSGr\S \ _pXpÆY <QSEYp{ V`sO _Z[ [uq@‚S kX]z@s‚[ `v $ Ts‘^, SpZr, Vp[ dpvZ \w– _Wr Xsz`-dzRuZu fK> dTSu-dTSu _pX{ŸpSs_pZ @‚pYpu| @‚p _≥TpQS @‚ZSu Xuõ [rS `pu GpOu `võ $ _zYs°O TqZ\pZpuõ @‚pu h@‚ _pP ApOu-BpOu QuA XS `<^{O `puOp `v $ Rp<X{@‚ dp∫Pp dpvZ _p≥T}Qp<Y@‚ _QoWp\Sp @u‚ dStK>u SXtSu Y`pz T}pY# QuAu Gp _@‚Ou `võ $ Ts‘^ dpvZ SpZr QpuSpuõ @u‚ TqZRpS XpuJ>u \∫mpuõ _u

VSu `puOu `võ, e_<[h Y`pz h@‚ @‚`p\O T}E<[O `v XpuJ>p ApSp, XpuJ>p VpNp $ ApS TpS Xuõ Cr, QtR, Q`r, <AEÊr, Qp[, ZpuJ>r, `[\p, ArZ-TtÊu _p˘´\@‚ dpvZ Tpv<πJ>@‚ WpußY TQpP{ V`sO Ep\ _u Aph GpOu `võ ! @w‚<^ dpvZ T]s dpRpqZO _XpG `puSu _u QtR @‚√ V`s[Op ZÒr `v ! e_r<[h @‚`p Wr GpOp `v "Qu_pz Xvõ Qu_ `qZYpNp, <GO QtR Q`r @‚p ApNp $' `qZYpNp @‚√ _z∫@w‚<O @‚pu _Xw– \ _Gr\ VSpYu ZASu Xuõ Y`pz [BSu \p[u Xu[puõ dpvZ OrG Ýpv`pZpuõ @‚p <\]u^ YpuBQpS `v $ Y`pz @u‚ OrG-Ýpv`pZpuõ @‚√ @‚√<O{ Qu] WZ Xuõ Uv‚[r `v $ `qZYpNp Xuõ QrTp\[r, Q]`Zp, `pu[r, ZbpVzRS, X@‚Z _@}‚pz<O, Vv]pAr, GÆXpπJ>Xr, S\Zp<m, @‚Z\p EpvP, <]\Zp<m Gv_u Ýpv`pZ dTpZ `^pu{∂[p_ @u‚ _pP XSph GpOu `võ $ `pu[r @u‚ Xpv@u‚ TZ U‚pB @u‚ BrOpuõ @‚√ X∫Or dpvZ M>pu[RXp@‚puõ @‚√ BtzG _V @‚p XS Xpu` [uOr `v $ kp\N Xp_ Xuõ OrG @‚p Xu[p [BOp `v $ Y` Ýpv`pZ Xs¢YO# X<`[pdpuõ @‚p Ýpv`pZ `v $ X<`[phz TuÊpuõ TZ Ht[u L>p[@‚Z Ht[Or `võ dpvZ OrG @u‚ BrO BpOr `võ $ \O{XpS Xuõ @w‚<^ \ dpv pu<B@‚ @}‚pz<O @u‚ _pP-_pP `qZYpNp ∏\uO \ Sr[ @}‚pz<O @u‚ ÃpZ TZ AÊp `v $ `qZYpNp @‚p dOrO BpvZ\TtN{ Z`p `v $ _sS`[u dOrO @‚√ Wpz<O, Y`pz @u‚ <S\p<_Ypuõ @‚√ <SπK>p, [BS \ _p`_ _u e_@‚p W<\πY dpvZ d<R@‚ fßß\[ dpvZ \vW\]p[r `puBp, Y` dSsXpS _`G `r [BpYp Gp _@‚Op `v $ `qZYpNp TY{J>S <\WpB ÃpZp _X∫O T}Qu] Xuõ TY{J>S ∫P[puõ @‚p Gp[-_p <VF>pYp `sdp `v $ Xu[puõ, Ýpv`pZpuõ dpvZ dÆY <\<]πJ> d\_Zpuõ TZ Qu]-<\Qu] @u‚ TY{J>@‚puõ @u‚ <[h dp\p_ dpvZ WpuGS @‚√ kuπK> ∑Y\∫Pp `puOr `v $ `qZYpNp @‚p GS_≥T@{‚ <\WpB, _pz∫@w‚<O@‚ <\WpB Y`pz @u‚ _pz∫@w‚<O@‚ \pOp\ZN @u‚ <SXp{N Xuõ GsJ>p `sdp `v $ TY{J>@‚puõ @‚√ _s<\Rp @u‚ <[h X`´\TtN{ GpS@‚pqZYpz <S≥S<[<AO ∫PpSpuõ _u T}pØO @‚√ Gp _@‚Or `v # Xs¢Y @‚pYp{[Y # ëó, ëò, ëô _u°J>Z ëó-Vr, E™L>rBÁ-ëñêêëó QtZWp^ - Tr Vr h°_ Sz. óêíôïï-ïñ-ïó Uv‚°_ - ôë-êëóíóêìëòï Se{ <Q∂[r# `qZYpNp _Z@‚pZ TY{J>S ±YtZpu, EÆÈ[pu@‚ <V<∂L>õB, ìñ, GSTP, Se{ <Q∂[r-ëëêêêë QtZWp^# êëë-ììíîôëê \uV_peJ># www.vie.in/htc ■ 93

Beauty

Losing face? GET OFF THAT FLIGHT looking like a million bucks. Most people wouldn't, considering travel often has devastating effects on your makeup. It can be done though — taking a trip without jet lag taking a toll on your face the next day. Let's start with the skin — always important as pressurised cabins have an extremely drying effect. The thing to do is carry a few important beauty products while flying. A good moisturiser, for instance, won't hurt. Don't go overboard applying it though, and try sticking only to areas that feel tight. Water is always essential because of its ability to rehydrate and protect the skin, so drink at least six glasses a day. If it's a lengthy flight you're on, here's something you can do: Lean forward in your seat and support your face in your hands for a couple of minutes. This brings the right amount of pressure on facial skin tissue and helps eliminate puffiness. Splashing your face with cool water periodically also decreases puffiness and keeps the skin supple. Also, keep your sun block, cleanser and toner within arm's reach. You can eliminate unnecessary clutter by carrying products that offer more than one use. Creams that double as moisturisers, make-up pencils that serve as lipstick, shampoos that also work as travel washes — these make sense while travelling. You might also want to carry samples of new products that can then be packed in small plastic bags instead of bulky makeup kits. Speaking of makeup, you will definitely need some when suddenly exposed to

MAKEUP MAGIC Using a moisturiser at night will help you wake up to fresher, younger looking skin. To make your eyes stand out, use an eyelash curler on the top lashes followed by two coats of black mascara. Use makeup that combines a base and powder in one. To brighten up your face, add streaks a few shades lighter than your base colour.

harsh lighting at airports. To play down the effect, use foundation under the eyes and around the nose. When it comes to hairdos, remember that boarding a plane with a very styled hairdo doesn't make sense, as it isn't going to last. Stick to your natural texture because that's always more practical. It will also help you avoid packing extra baggage like electric rollers or tongs. Before a trip, treat your hair to pre-shampoo oil massages. Those with limp, flat hair should try some warm olive oil, while those with curly hair should opt for deep conditioning treatments once a fortnight. Next, posture. Avoid sitting in one place for too long. Walk along the airplane aisle or stretch often. You can relieve sinus pressure caused by flying by applying some revolving fingertip pressure under the eyes, using smooth movements. Treat yourself to a pre-flight aromatherapy massage using eucalyptus oil to boost your immune system. Lastly, diet. Stick to fresh fruit and vegetables throughout your trip — everything from bananas and apples to unsalted peanuts and dried fruit — and avoid alcohol or salty foods. A common mistake most people make is to confuse the dehydration that accompanies jet lag with hunger. This can wreak havoc with mealtimes. Also, dining after dark should be avoided. Sleep with a mask, as some of these are scented with herbs that have a cooling effect. Remember, it's the little things that make a difference the next morning. ■ Never mind brushes for shadows and lips. Dab it on with your fingers. The simple look is always the most attractive. Those intimidated by foundation can try a foundation stick, covering only areas that are red or show some discoloration. For quick eye makeup, take a pale shadow and dust it on the entire lid. Then follow with mascara. You don't need to visit a salon often if you stay within a threeshade range of your natural colour.

I L L U S T RAT I O N : P O O J A J H A V E R I

You needn't get off an airplane looking like something the cat dragged in. Preetee Brahmbhatt tells you how

Humour

THE WIFE OF AN AMERICAN diplomat I knew, in what was then Calcutta, used to be fascinated by the vegetable and fresh fruit sections of the local bazaars. She would, every now and then, insist on accompanying her cook, Abdul, on his daily marketing round, much to the latter's disgruntlement. He thought the memsahib was tagging along to check on the prices and make sure he wasn't over-charging her, a perk he considered to be his legitimate due. But it wasn't prices she was interested in — it was the earthy sights and smells of the bazaar, so different from the antiseptic supermarkets back home in the States. Shopping around, Indian-style, for vegetables or anything else, can be a unique experience for those used to the more sanitised, impersonal environs of western-style supermarkets. The bargainbasement democracy of the bazaar is everyone's cuppa. I remember a young Swedish couple who made their own discovery of India. Yes, they had seen the Taj Mahal, and very nice it was too. But what had struck them most was the humble little kullars, earthenware bowls in which roadside vendors served cheap tea. The Swedes were rapturous about them. “You mean they are thrown away after just one use? In Sweden, people would prize them. Such classic, simple lines. And you did say they were all handmade, didn't you?” They were determined to take back kullars to Sweden, to distribute to friends and decorate their own apartment with. I had no idea where one bought kullars in bulk, so we set out to find an obliging chaiwallah who would sell us some. We soon found one on a busy thoroughfare and the man, galvanised by the prospect of foreign custom, assured us that his was the most "Ispeshal, fuss kilas chai" (special, first class tea) in town. I informed him that it was not tea, but kullars we wanted. He looked nonplussed and replied that he sold tea, not kullars. "I know that," I assured him, "but my friends want kullars, not tea. They are prepared to buy all your kullars." He thought this over and shook his head, "If I have no kullars left, in what shall I serve my tea?" When this was put to the Swedes, they said they would buy the tea as well and pour it down the gutter. But as tea was the vendor's livelihood, he would consider it an affront if it were thrown away. Finally, we ordered three kullars of the sweet, gingery tea and solemnly drank it. The empty containers were carefully dried and stored away in the visitors' rucksacks. For the rest of their stay, the couple drank 36

prodigious amounts of roadside tea in order to add to their growing kullar collection. After a while, they even acquired a taste for the brew and, by the time they left, had a hoard of almost three dozen kullars. Some time later, I got a telegram from Stockholm: 'Home safely. Kullars intact. Love….' I'm still trying to figure out who got the best of that bargain. Bargaining is part and parcel of shopping in India. It isn’t recommended for newcomers though, as I discovered to my cost many years ago. It was a memorable day for me. I had just received my first pay packet. Walking on air, I reached the New Market, the quaintly nicknamed Calcutta landmark that was then 92 years old. I bought a shawl for my mother, a bottle of scent for a girlfriend — and then, I saw the silver bracelet I knew my sister had to have. I walked in, ordered it wrapped, belatedly asked how much and rocked a little when the man said: "Rs 65 only." An accompanying colleague whispered: "Haggle. Tell him not a penny more than Rs 30." In response, the bracelet was wordlessly unwrapped and replaced in the window. "Walk away," said my mentor. "He'll call us back." We walked away. The man had returned to his newspaper. "I've got to have that bracelet," I muttered, and went back, swallowing my pride. The bracelet was re-wrapped. I handed over the money. The shopkeeper looked me in the eye and said: "I made a mistake. It's Rs 75 only, not Rs 65 only." That was the day I really discovered my place in the great Indian bazaar. However, there are certain rules of fair play that prevail. There is the story of the old Indian hand who one day had to do the marketing as his wife was away. As the shopper was walking away with his purchases, the tradesman called him back and somewhat abashedly handed him some money. Surprised, the customer wanted to know what this was. The man replied, "Well you see, when the memsahib does the shopping, she always bargains. So I raise my prices to begin with and allow her to bring them down. I thought you would haggle too, so I did what I always do. But you paid whatever I asked for, and I'm returning the extra money. I can't cheat my customers." What could be fairer than that, in supermarket or bazaar? ■

Jug Suraiya, columnist, writer and author of several books, lives in Delhi with his wife Bunny, and Brindle, the stray dog who adopted them a couple of years ago.

I L L U S T RAT I O N : P O O J A J H A V E R I

To Market, To Market

Unlimited bargains, unlimited surprises. Jug Suraiya has always had a ball at the great Indian bazaar

INDIA INC. - In Conversation

DAKS SULAJJA FIRODIA MOTWANI

SHE'S GOT DRIVE

taking charge of strategy, sales, marketing and finance activities of the Kinetic group, it was an altogether different market, with international and domestic giants engaged in intense competition. Consumer tastes had also shifted, from mopeds to scooters and motorcycles. Backed by an MBA from Carnegie Mellon University, Pittsburgh, Sulajja set about the task of transforming the group, from a niche manufacturer of mopeds to a producer of a full range of two-wheelers. She launched a new business and marketing strategy, ensuring the company became customer and market-driven, launching new models in all segments and adapting an aggressive business acquisition strategy. A winner of several awards â&#x20AC;&#x201D; including the 'Global Leader of Tomorrow' by the World Economic Forum â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Sulajja refuses to let her busy corporate life affect her love of the outdoors. A national-level badminton player and fitness enthusiast, she loves skiing in Switzerland, and goes scuba diving, mountain biking and white water rafting. She also tries to spend as much time as possible with her three-year-old son, Sidhant. That, in our book, is a well-rounded personality. Excerpts from an interview:

Sulajja Firodia Motwani, Joint Managing Director, Kinetic Engineering Ltd., has automobiles in her blood. Sachin Kumar wants to know more

HE grew up in a family where talk around the dining table revolved around automobiles. Her grandfather, the late H K Firodia, co-founded Bajaj Auto and Bajaj Tempo, and, together with his son, started the Kinetic group. It was natural, then, for Sulajja to be drawn to the automobiles business. "It was in my blood," she says. Sulajja grew up at a time when there were few two-wheeler and four-wheeler brands in India. When she got into the business,

Do you see India emerging as a global automobile giant? I think India as a hub for automobile manufacturing is beginning to take off. Several leading global manufacturers are setting up shop here and using them as export bases. A lot of auto-component manufacturers are also sending business to India, recognising it as a destination that offers high quality at affordable labour costs. We also have substantial R&D and general technical expertise that can be harnessed. I think India can definitely emerge as a major automobile player, especially in the twowheeler segment, as we have a huge domestic market that gives us economies of scale, product development expertise and very strong R&D capabilities. In a global sense, I think we are expected to reach $1 billion in export revenues over the next few years. The Indian two-wheeler market will be the largest in the world at an estimated annual volume of 10 million in 6-7 years. What would you say are our core strengths? The development of vehicles of good quality, intelligent product design and affordable costs. The Indian market is one of the most demanding in the world. Motorcycles, for instance, are expected to have the highest reliability, lowest pricing and lowest fuel consumption. Indian companies have done a lot of basic research to meet this demand. The sort of work we have done on fuel efficiency, for example, is unparalleled in the world.

Have international auto giants realised this potential? Yes. All global majors â&#x20AC;&#x201D; whether it is General Motors, Suzuki, Ford, Hyundai, Daimler, Honda or Yamaha â&#x20AC;&#x201D; have set up or are in the process of establishing a long-term presence here. Some are focused on production and product development for the domestic market; others are looking at additional opportunities such as using India as a base for outsourcing or manufacturing. Many have been successful in China and, therefore, find India a better long-term alternative as a hub of development or outsourcing activity. Several domestic auto companies are making waves internationally, exporting vehicles to competitive markets. Do you see Indian companies acquiring foreign auto firms and emerging as powerful international entities? The acquisition of foreign firms need not be the only route for enhanced global presence, especially in the two wheeler or car industries. It can be achieved through exports or strategic relationships. I believe this is the route that will be adopted by most. For example, we propose to leverage our relationship with Hyosung, Bajaj is utilising its ties with Kawasaki, Tata has tied up with Rover for its Indica and some firms are tying up with local manufacturers in South East Asian countries. I feel acquisitions as a route may be adopted in the case of auto components more than by Indian vehicle manufacturers. What has your experience in the auto business been like? It has been overwhelming. The two-wheeler industry is a very complex and dynamic one today, with constant product innovations and increasing competition. I keep my eye on the customer, his requirements and preferences. My ambition is to make Kinetic a successful name in motorcycles, while maintaining our edge in modern scooters. In the short term, I would like to achieve a turnover of Rs 2000 crore. My dream is that every Indian household will have a Kinetic two-wheeler, and also that we become a global player. We already export to many countries including advanced markets like the USA, Europe, Australia, Latin America and New Zealand. Not many women have made it big in the automobile and engineering industries. What are the reasons for this? Do you see a gradual change in this trend? Women have generally shied away from the manufacturing industries, preferring to go for financial, media-related, software or FMCG type jobs. Perhaps fewer women were trained as engineers in earlier years, or maybe the working conditions of a factory may not have been suitable. I don't see much change in this trend so far, though I don't think there are any real reasons for women to stay away from these industries. With more women becoming users of automobiles and certainly being influences in automobile purchase decisions, I think these fields will interest more women in the coming years. â&#x2013; 79

India Inc. Banking Things are looking good at India Inc. A recent report by the Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) maintains that the Indian economy is expected to grow 7.2 per cent in fiscal 2003-2004. And that's just a start. NAMASKAAR takes a closer look at three sectors that have had a lot going for them over the past couple of months â&#x20AC;&#x201D; real estate, financial services and power. While the housing finance business has been growing at a phenomenal pace of between 35 and 50 per cent annually, the housing sector is expected to grow by nearly 25 per cent annually over the next five years. Banks are emerging as financial supermarkets, offering not just traditional products but also a host of atypical ones. Liberalisation has transformed public sector institutions, which are able to compete with both private and international banks on their

Up Up

own terms. Also, in terms of power, an additional 100,000 MW of capacity

will be added over the next decade, doubling the country's power generating capacity. What next? Whole new worlds to conquer.

New entrants, new technology, new services. Gayatri Ranganathan takes a look at the banking sector in India and comes back satisfied with what she sees

INDIA'S BANKING SECTOR continues to see remarkable growth, as the industry rides the crest of the wave that is transforming the financial services scenario in the country. New technology has helped banks cut costs tremendously, while simultaneously ensuring delivery of state-of-theart products and services to customers. Today, banks in India â&#x20AC;&#x201D; from state-owned institutions to new and old private sector banks, and leading co-operative banks â&#x20AC;&#x201D; are able to offer services that compare with the best internationally. The growth of the industry has coincided with the phenomenal changes witnessed worldwide. Thus, banks are emerging as financial supermarkets, offering not just traditional vanilla products like deposits, loans, savings and current accounts, but also atypical ones such as insurance policies, mutual funds, dematerialisation accounts, security products, cards and mortgages. The Indian economy has been growing at a healthy clip too, fuelling demand for these products. The mortgages sector has been growing at a phenomenal 35 to 50 per cent annually over the past few years, and shows no signs of tiring. Interest rates in India have also plunged over the

India Inc. Energy

Power to the People Things are moving fast in the power sector and the future looks bright, says Charulata Gupte PERSISTENT EFFORTS to reform the power sector over the the remaining 59,000 MW will be added during the 11th Plan. past few years have finally begun to pay handsome dividends. Also, projects to add about 32,000 MW of capacity are under State Electricity Boards (SEBs) have started cutting down on various stages of implementation. losses and have started generating additional revenues. Central These phenomenal new additions to the existing capacity are power generating utilities have also started realising their dues, coming in at a time when the sector is undergoing remarkable which will ultimately help them reinvest funds in new power transformation. According to R V Shahi, the Power Secretary, generation capacities. Power regulators have become effective, nearly a dozen SEBs have reported a sharp fall in losses over the and the pricing structure is being rationalised in many parts of last two years. Their efforts have resulted in savings of almost Rs 90 billion. Shahi admits the improvement in the performance of the country. Suddenly, there is a spate of activities in the power sector. Plans the SEBs is mainly because of the introduction of the Accelerated Power Development and for new power Reforms Programme generating capacities suddenly, there is a spate of activities in the power sector. (APDRP), which was are being finalised, while plans for new power generating capacities are being finalised, non-conventional while non-conventional sources of energy are proving viable. launched in February 2000. The APDRP (including wind) sources envisages the reduction of energy are proving to be viable. The Electricity Act 2003 has also come into force, of transmission and distribution losses to 15 per cent over the enabling the introduction of much-needed reforms. The act will next five years. help the government realise its "vision to provide every village in SEBs that have seen a remarkable turnaround in their the country electricity by 2007, and to every household by 2012," performance include those in Maharashtra, Gujarat, Uttaranchal, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and Uttar Pradesh. according to Anant Geete, Union Power Minister. Over the next decade, an additional 100,000 MW of capacity will The APDRP envisages substantial support â&#x20AC;&#x201D; in terms of be added, doubling the country's power generating capacity. investments and even incentives â&#x20AC;&#x201D; to SEBs for improving their According to Geete, about 41,000 MW of additional capacity performance. The central government has already disbursed will be added by the end of the 10th Five Year Plan (2007), and nearly Rs 150 billion under this programme.

While the emphasis continues to be on fossil power (thermal, gas and oil), other alternative sources including hydel, wind and solar, and even nuclear energy, continue to increase their share. According to experts, India has the potential to generate nearly 50,000 MW of wind power.

Though there was reluctance, initially, on the part of many SEBs to push ahead with reforms, the achievements over the last two years have been impressive. For instance, nearly twodozen states have set up State Electricity Regulatory Commissions (SERCs), an equal number of states have signed a Memorandum Of Understanding with the central government, promising reforms in the sector, and nearly a dozen have corporatised or unbundled their SEBs. A few states have also discontinued the practice of providing free power to the agriculture sector. Interestingly, these measures have helped central power utilities — including the National Thermal Power Corporation, Powergrid Corporation and the National Hydroelectric Power Corporation — to increase their collection rates to over 95 per cent. With the government also allowing for power trading, new investments are expected to flow in. Several leading industrial groups and even foreign investors are now seriously eyeing the Indian power sector. According to Shahi, the national grid will be ready in less than 10 years. While the emphasis continues to be on fossil power (thermal, gas and oil), other alternative sources including hydel, wind and solar, and even nuclear energy, continue to increase their share. According to experts, India has the potential to generate nearly 50,000 MW of wind power. 80

At present, wind power is generated in several farms in states like Maharashtra, Gujarat, Rajasthan and Tamil Nadu. Wind energy is clean and renewable, and the capital costs of putting up a plant are competitive. The next decade will see this form of energy emerge as a significant factor in the global power scenario. Hydel power, which had been neglected in recent years, is also making a comeback. The government has identified over 150 hydel projects, especially in the northern and northeastern states. Recently, the first of six 250 MW units of the 1,500 MW Nathpa Jhakri hydel power project — the single largest such project in India — was inaugurated in Himachal Pradesh. The government is also encouraging the private sector to set up Captive Power Plants (CPPs), to enhance the power capacity. According to F A Vandrevala, Western Region Chairman of the Confederation of Indian Industry (CII), and Managing Director, Tata Power, CPPs provide resilience to grids and also improve voltage profile. They are also the fastest way to add capacity. For a developing country like India, electricity is of vital importance, both in urban and rural areas. Demand is expected to soar, as the standard of living of millions keeps improving. Power sector reforms will have a lasting impact on economic development in the country, affecting virtually every other sector as well. ■

India Inc. Real Estate

Breaking New Ground The real estate industry in India is one of the most buoyant sectors of the economy today, says N B Rao

A PARADIGM SHIFT is occurring in the Indian property business, with the focus being on the use of modern technology, new construction techniques, and professional marketing and sales strategies. The urban property business is witnessing remarkable transformation. New areas are opening up, boosting the fortunes of the industry. Concepts like 'serviced apartments,' 'retail real estate development' and 'townships development' are catching up across the metros. The consumer of properties is also being wooed furiously by developers, marketing consultants and housing finance companies. Non Resident Indians (NRIs) and Persons of Indian Origin (PIOs) are emerging as major constituents of the market and real estate developers are seeking them out by organising international exhibitions and road shows around the globe. The professionalisation of the industry — with the entry of both domestic giants and international players — has helped significantly in transforming this sector. One of the most significant changes has been in the area of transparency, and most leading companies have adopted international best practices in their transactions. "We have decided to promote and ensure that member organisations — spread across 42 Indian cities — and our fellow developers endorse the code of conduct and implement the same in letter and in spirit," says Kumar Gera, President, Confederation of Real Estate Developers Associations of India (CREDAI), the apex industry body. According to him, developers have decided to work closely with housing finance companies, the central and state governments and local bodies, "with the objective of improving the working environment and standards of real estate development in India." The National Housing and Habitat Policy of the government has addressed most of these issues and spelt out the solutions as well, adds Gera. One of the most significant factors contributing to the burst of activities in the real estate sector is the focus on infrastructure development. Most large cities, including Mumbai, New Delhi,

Bangalore and Hyderabad, are witnessing massive new investments in upgrading existing infrastructure. According to Sushilkumar Shinde, Chief Minister, Maharashtra, his government has focussed attention on improving infrastructure, especially in the 'golden triangle' of the Nashik-Mumbai-Pune belt. The government's focus is on ensuring good power, road connectivity, telecom network, sea and airports, IT and biotech parks, and film and TV studios. It is also promoting special economic zones, which will naturally result in growing demand for housing. There's more, says Shinde. The government has also introduced the Maharashtra Infrastructure Development and Support Act (MIDAS), which aims at providing a hassle-free and transparent mechanism for private sector participation in infrastructure projects. Mumbai, the nation's finance and commercial capital, is one of the prime examples of how infrastructure development is boosting the real estate sector. The construction of 50 flyovers, the development of the Mumbai-Pune expressway, and the proposed new freeways and trans-harbour link has kickstarted real estate development in many areas. There is intense development activity in the western suburbs, stretching from Bandra to Borivali, and also in pockets of the eastern suburbs, including Mulund and Ghatkopar. Navi Mumbai, which will be the hub of the knowledge corridor, is also witnessing brisk construction activity. Another locality that shows tremendous potential is central Mumbai, traditionally home to the city's mills. The government has almost

Mumbai is one of the prime examples of how infrastructure development is boosting the real estate sector. cleared the proposal to allow the mills to sell their land for re-development, which will lead to massive new investment into the housing and retailing sector. The government recently took a major decision to classify Transfer of Development Rights (TDR) as 'moveable property,' which has resulted in a sharp reduction in stamp duty levied on it, from 10 per cent to three per cent. It hopes to enhance its revenues by this move, which has also been welcomed by the industry. According to Sunil Mantri, Honorary Secretary, the Maharashtra Chamber of Housing Industry (MCHI), the move will increase property sales and give a boost to the housing sector. He has also welcomed the state government's move to provide stamp duty exemption for the acquisition of land for public purposes by the Mumbai and Thane municipal corporations. Commercial and retail sector development has also taken off in a big way in Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore and Pune. According to a study by Knight Frank, a leading property consultant, about 25 million square feet of retail space â&#x20AC;&#x201D; equivalent to over 50 shopping malls â&#x20AC;&#x201D; will be added in major cities by 2005. According to Anuj Puri of the Confederation of Indian Industries (Western region), the housing sector is expected to grow by nearly 25 per cent annually over the next five years. And fuelling the growth of this sector is the mortgage business. The housing finance business has been growing at a phenomenal pace of between 35 and 50 per cent annually. Hefty tax breaks provided by the federal government in successive budgets, and growing competition in the business has boosted demand for home loans. The real estate industry in India has finally come of age. Today, it is also one of the most buoyant sectors of the economy. As demand for homes, commercial and retail space continues to grow, it will indeed continue to be a sunrise industry. â&#x2013; 76

Landmark

Gateway to the Grand:

Buland Darwaza TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPH: GUSTASP IRANI

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Standing tall at 176 feet, at the head of a sweeping stairway, Buland Darwaza is the loftiest commemorative gate in India. It is the gateway to Fatehpur Sikri, the once magnificent capital city of the mighty Mughal emperor Akbar. Today, the citadel sprawls across the landscape, stripped and desiccated by the Indian sun. Buland Darwaza leads visitors into the first part of the complex — a grand mosque that the emperor built for the Sufi saint Salim Chishti who correctly predicted that he would be blessed with three sons. Beyond its courtyards is the palace complex from where Akbar ruled his mighty kingdom for 15 long years. During those glorious days, the buildings that studded Fatehpur Sikri were inlaid with marble and semi-precious stones; rooms strewn with silken pillows and richly embroidered carpets; perfumed water gurgling under the floor of the royal apartments to keep them cool; elaborate baths and formal gardens with separate statehouses and audience chambers. The emperor was the only male allowed within the residential area that housed his harem. Today, Fatehpur Sikri seems stark and austere. Strolling around the ruins, one feels a twinge of pain for a beautiful dream run dry, literally, as Akbar had to abandon the city in 1585 because of a lack of water. If you listen carefully, you may hear the enchanting music of Tansen, the laughter of women playing on the five-storied Panch Mahal, the battle cry of elephants locked in mortal combat for the amusement of the emperor...The past still exists, buried beneath the sounds of tourists, pilgrims and guides who have overrun the city that was once the seat of power in the subcontinent. ■

Offbeat

Hidden waterfalls, mysterious caves and the throb of tribal drums greet Gustasp Irani on his visit to Chhattisgarh

STATE GRACE At the Chitrakote falls in Chattisgarh; (opposite) Images from a tribal fair.

was well after sunset when I arrived at Chitrakote, India's largest waterfall. Though shrouded in darkness, its mighty roar filled the inky black night. Checking into the camp resort on the banks of the river below, I drifted to sleep dreaming of feasting my eyes on the cascading waters the next day. But Chitrakote, like a coy courtesan, was a blurry silver streak behind a shroud of morning mist. She revealed herself only after the rising sun began burning away her flimsy cover. Curtains of frothing white water thundered down the face of a vertical cliff and into a pool of cool blue in the gorge below. The force of the fall churned up a spray that covered the spectacle in a delicate veil of mist. I walked along the edge of the cliff and looked down at a rainbow sweeping across the face of the falls. Like the Chitrakote waterfall, the new state of Chhattisgarh (carved out of the western segment of Madhya Pradesh) proved to be a stunning revelation. Hesitant and a little uncertain of herself at first, she soon grew in confidence and displayed her hidden treasures with aplomb: spectacular waterfalls, mysterious stalactite and stalagmite caves, dense forests and a rich and vibrant tribal culture. "The fact that Chhattisgarh has languished in the backwaters of tourism is really a pity because the state has some of the finest attractions in the country," is what Dr Jayathilak, Managing Director, Chhattisgarh Tourism Board, said to me. "Not only is it the greenest state in India — its forest cover is 44 per cent of the land — it has also been identified by the UN as the second densest in the world after the Amazon and is an important bio-diverse hotspot." I thought about this as I drove through the dark and mysterious forests of the Kanger Valley National Park outside the main town of Jagdalpur, in the Bastar district of the state. The vegetation in parts was so dense that even animals, I was told, often had some difficulty moving though the thicket. And though difficult to see because of the dense growth, the wildlife — reptiles, birds, deer, wild boar, black bear and even tiger — is abundant. Tirathgarh Falls welcomed us with a mighty roar. Though not as large as Chitrakote, this frothing split-level cascade was unmatched in dramatic beauty. It first tumbled down a black

umbrella-like rock, then briefly gathered itself together before thundering down a second cliff streaked by yet another waterfall. The two plummeting rivers emptied into an inviting pool at the base. I stripped down to my swimming trunks and splashed about in this setting straight from the Garden of Eden. Then, it was back through the forest, to the base of Kailash Caves. Accompanied by a forest department guide, I trudged up a narrow winding stairway to a small opening near the summit of a hill. Here I stooped down to an almost crawling position and entered a subterranean world where ghostly stalactites and stalagmites popped out of the darkness in the beam of my guide's battery operated lantern. I admired these formations in the dim light, some hanging like ornaments from the roof, others sprinkled across the floor. Ever so often, they would drape the walls of the cave like curtains. Nature had sculpted this underground world by a painfully slow process of leaving behind the tiniest sediment of calcium with each drop of water dripping through the roof. Over millions of years, the accumulation of these deposits formed tapering columns that reached down from the ceiling (stalactites) or up from the floor (stalagmites). Giving my imagination free rein, I walked through this world of fantasy alive with strange creatures lurking in mysterious forests. I skipped the two other stalactite and stalagmite caverns in the area, one of which was the deepest and longest cave in India, and set out to enjoy the celebrated tribal lore of the Bastar region. As we pulled up at a village on the fringe of the forest, I could not help but feel that we were as much a curiosity to them as they were to us. They welcomed us into their simple homes and posed with hesitant smiles for our cameras. The chickens, ducks, pigs, dogs and the other livestock that shared their habitat, however, gave us a wide berth. The calm around the settlement, my guide assured me, was deceptive. On weekly market days it was transformed into a beehive of activity. Once the trading was done (and a lot of it still operates on barter), they got down to the more serious social side of their lives. "It's important we do not judge them with the tinted glasses of civilization," my guide warned me before proceeding to elaborate on a way of life, which, even by a city slicker's

PHOTOGRAPHS: GUSTASP IRANI

yardstick, may seem bizarre. Getting drunk is a form of worship and end in itself. The liquor is first offered to the gods and then consumed. It follows that the more one drinks, the more one is blessed. Men, women and even children tank up on the two local brews; one made from a native fruit, the other from the sap of a palm tree. Once the drinking starts, the focus of the market shifts to makeshift cockfight rings. Soon the young men and women, especially of the Muria tribe, drift away to attend the meeting of the Ghotul, a tribal youth club of sorts of which every unmarried member of the community is an automatic member. At the end of the club activities, which include, singing, dancing and story telling, members select their partners and troop into a large hut to share a night of intimacy. No one may spend a night with the same partner more than five times. Once a couple decides to get married, their membership to the Ghotul automatically lapses. "Jealousy is a word they do not understand. There are no crimes of passion. However, they will fight and even kill for the right to tap the sap of a palm tree," my guide informed me as we concluded our tribal odyssey at the Anthropological Tribal Museum in the town of Jagdalpur. Members of tribes, especially those living on the fringe of towns around the region, were apparently becoming increasingly urbanized and, during my visit, a number of young men and women had forsaken their Ghotul for the pleasures of the local

carnival taking place outside the royal palace grounds of Jagdalpur. Attired in brightly coloured T-shirts and saris, they mingled freely with other city residents and delighted in riding giant wheels, tumbling boxes and the other attractions of the fair. Leaving behind the bright lights of the city, I returned to star-studded Chitrakote. There, I fell asleep listening to the strains of the waterfall's lullaby. â&#x2013;

FACT FILE RAIPUR, the capital of the newly formed state of Chhattisgarh, has its own airport. Jagdalpur, the main town in the Bastar district, is 300 kilometres away and accessible by road. Alternatively, one can fly to Vishakhapatnam in the neighbouring state of Andhra Pradesh and journey by rail from there to Jagdalpur. The train passes through virgin forest, 54 tunnels and the two highest altitude broad gauge stations in India. By way of accommodation, Chhattisgarh Tourism Board has log huts overlooking Chitrakote Falls. There are also two 3-star hotels with air-conditioned rooms in Jagdalpur and the Tourism Board offers comprehensive 6 and 8-day packages for Bastar and Chhattisgarh respectively. For more information, contact Chhattisgarh Tourism Board, Raipur. Tel: (0771) 2666415. Fax: 2666425. Email: tourism@cg.nic.in (above) Tribal handicrafts; (below) more awe-inspiring waterfalls.

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Wildlife

HERE AND THERE, along the numerous streams, the short ravines have a touch of semi-evergreen. During some years, there can also be a bit of water in the dry months.

Mane Issue THERE WERE FEARS, as far back as 1891, that the lion in India was on the verge of extinction. By 1913, the population had allegedly dwindled to an all-time low of 20, following a disastrous famine. Some now believe this low number was put forth as a ploy by the Junagadh Nawab to prevent and control further hunting. On another historical note, the lion was also the first animal to be depicted on an Indian postage stamp, in 1929. Over 2000 years ago, Emperor Ashoka also emblazoned his decrees on the lion capital of Sarnath. Eventually, this was chosen as the grand emblem by the Republic of free India.

They stand proud and unyielding.

WHILE THE LION is Gir's star attraction and often the only reason people come here, the biodiversity that Gir harbours is often overlooked. There are leopards, striped hyena and a large number of herbivores animals as also over 450 varieties of plants and 30 reptiles.

True kings of all they survey. As the thousands who come to pay tribute will testify, there are few animals as magnificent as the lions of Gir

THIS LARGE, freshwater Indian crocodile can be sighted on the Kankai and Kamleshwar reservoirs, either drifting loglike on the waters or basking at the edge, sneaking away at the slightest hint of alarm.

TEXT: SUNJOY MONGA. PHOTOGRAPHS: PORPOISE PHOTOSTOCK

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THE LION'S TALE of woe is startling. Continual expansion of human population has long been cutting into the species' habitat. In Gir, they are easily seen by day. There are guided jeep safaris and drives to the Kankai and Kamleshwar reservoirs, Chodavdi and Baval sectors of the Park that are rewarding for the wildlife viewing they offer.

HERDS OF CHITAL AND SAMBAR are regularly sighted at Gir, as also small bands of the Nilgai or Blue Bull. This large, horse-like animal is a grazer. Its unringed horns are distinct from those of the antelope. Native to India, the Nilgai is often mistakenly considered a relation of the cow, which is probably why it has escaped persecution locally.

GIR'S LOCATION and topography, along with the presence of several reservoirs within and around, result in an interesting mix of woodland and aquatic avifauna or bird life. Nearly 300 species of birds have been observed in this region, including storks, waterfowl (ducks and geese) and flocks of Demoiselle Crane during winter. Peafowl are also common.

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FAST FACTS Gir once covered 3,070 square kilometres. Over the past 100 years, the forest has been reduced to about a third of its former size due to the expansion of agriculture and habitat destruction. It was constituted a wildlife sanctuary in 1965 and expanded to its present size of 1153 square kilometres in 1974.

THEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SOMETHING MAGICAL about Gir's flora and fauna. A stop somewhere can yield startling images such as these. One moment, all is quiet; the next, the skies erupt as hundreds of waterfowl head for the stars.

GIR IS ALSO home to the long-established Maldharis, a colourful and interesting people. Approximately 2000 Maldharis stay with their livestock in thorn-enclosed settlements called nesses, of which some seventy are scattered over Gir. The lion and the Maldharis are constantly caught in a conflict of interests. Confining the Asiatic lion to one area makes it highly vulnerable to biological, climactic or human-made catastrophe. Experts believe it is crucial a second population be established. Several sites have been examined and Palpur-Kuno Sanctuary in Madhya Pradesh has been considered a good option. Translocating a key predator isn't easy though. It requires an adequate prey base, negligible human interference and much goodwill. For now, the majestic lion continues to roar only in Gir's uneasy calm. â&#x2013;

Best time to visit: December to mid-April. Gir gets extremely hot during May and June when temperatures can soar to 46C (113F) by day. For the adventurous, however, this hot period can be rewarding for its many animal sightings. Accommodation: Try the Gir Lodge, managed by the Taj Group of Hotels. Tel: 02877 - 85501- 04. Fax: 85528. Email: trn@tajhotels.com. Web: www.tajhotels.com. There's also the Sinh Sadan Forest Lodge, managed by the Forest Department, which boasts standard and air-conditioned rooms. Prior booking is recommended. Tel: 02877 - 85540. At Junagadh, there's the Gujarat Tourism's Girnar Hotel. Tel: 621201. Contacts: For more information, get in touch with the Deputy Conservator of Forests (Wildlife Circle), Gir National Park and Sanctuary, P.O. Sasan-Gir, Dist: Junagadh - 362 135, Gujarat. Tel: 0285 - 630051/631678.

Etcetera

Ties that Bind Just as it did with much success a year ago, Pravasi Bharatiya Divas 2004 intends to continue fostering ties between the Indian Diaspora

FOR

A LARGE NUMBER of Indians living abroad, January 9, 2004 is a red-letter day. It's when over 2000 of them from 70 countries will converge at New Delhi's Vigyan Bhavan for a three-day conference called Pravasi Bharatiya Divas 2004. Inaugurated by the Prime minister of India, Atal Bihari Vajpayee, this event will enable People of Indian Origin (PIOs) and Non-Resident Indians (NRIs) to get together and discuss everything from issues affecting them abroad to their expectations from and relations with India. The discussions will also explore the possibilities of creating networks with each other and residents for the benefit of the global Indian family. Speaking about the event, JC Sharma, Secretary, Ministry of External Affairs, says, "The first Pravasi Bharatiya Divas set in motion the gargantuan task of bringing Indians from every corner of the globe under one roof and, for the first time, created awareness about the achievements of the great Indian family. The second Pravasi Bharatiya Divas will take this effort further and not only enhance the belief and power that this family possesses, but also deal with the issues and concerns faced by them." To begin at the beginning, the first Pravasi Bharatiya Divas conceived by the Ministry of External Affairs and co-organised by it with the Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FICCI) - saw the coming together of 2000 NRIs/PIOs

from 62 countries, along with 1500 resident Indian delegates. The date, January 9, was a symbolic one. It was the day when, in 1915, one of the greatest non-resident Indians, Mahatma Gandhi, returned from South Africa to India. The Pravasi Divas was just one of the recommendations of the high-level committee on the Indian Diaspora appointed by the government. Headed by Dr LM Singhvi, MP and former high commissioner to the UK, the committee made significant recommendations spanning issues like dual citizenship for Indians settled abroad, and more engagement in culture, education, trade and investment flows. It was also meant to create a web-like network among the 20 million strong Indians spread across 110 countries, while celebrating their numerous achievements. Last year's conference began with the Prime Minister conferring Bharatiya Samman Awards on ten eminent NRIs/PIOs. "We invite you not only to share our vision in the new millennium, but also to help us shape its contours," he said. "We do not want your investment, we also want your ideas. We do not want your riches, we want the richness of your experience." The gathering was addressed by a galaxy of eminent speakers, including Sir Anerood Jugnauth, Prime Minister of Mauritius, who was part of a 134-strong list that included two Nobel laureates, political leaders and cabinet ministers from 12 countries, leading scientists, professionals, business magnates, multimillionaires and development activists. So, what makes this year's conference special? Well, to begin with, the people. Some of the personalities who have confirmed their participation are Noble Laureate Sir V S Naipaul, management guru C K Prahalad, eminent economist Prof. Jagdish Bhagwati, Lord Bagri of UK and veteran West Indies cricketer Rohan Kanhai. Leaders of Indian industry like Mukesh Ambani, Chairman, Reliance Industries and Sunil Mittal, Chairman, Bharti Telecom are also expected to address the gathering. Other highlights include a stress on the greater participation of youth, a fashion extravaganza, a platform for Indian and foreign exhibitors to showcase their products and services, presentations of artists from across the world and, of course, the excellent food served on all days of the event, representing almost all regional

cuisines of India. This year's conference is all set to match the first in scale, substance and grandeur. Apart from the inaugural session with the PM, it will also boast sessions with the Ministers of Finance, External Affairs, HRD and Science and Technology, as also the Deputy Prime Minister, LK Advani and Leader of the Opposition, Sonia Gandhi. Apart from new and emerging issues the event will attempt to address and action, it will also review decisions taken during last year's conference. The formalities of the changes to the dual Citizenship Act announced by the PM in January this year are expected to be completed, while also in the offing are final announcements on the Gulf Insurance Scheme and amendments to the Foreign Contribution Act. It's not all work and no play either. There will be large doses of entertainment too, much like the first conference that saw everything from chutney music by Chris Ram Khilawan from Surinam to Bhangra pop by Malkit Singh from the UK to appearances by film stars like Shahrukh Khan, Aishwarya Rai and Saif Ali Khan. In a nutshell, then, the second Pravasi Bharatiya Divas will be a networking opportunity like no other. The best of 'global India' on a platter, for those who want it. Interested? Log on to www.indiaday.org for more. â&#x2013; 83

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World View

Come to CHICAGO

jazz clubs, watched hammer-headed sharks at play, found the birthplace of the skyscraper and an exhibition called â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Cows on Paradeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

PHOTOGRAPHS: DINODIA & PORPOISE PHOTOSTOCK

TREETS AS STRAIGHT as arrows and a wind that comes from the inner reaches of hell," wrote my cousin from Chicago, "bring lots of mufflers." I'm a warm-blooded person. When temperatures dip beneath a certain level, I begin to think of roaring fires, hot chocolate, woollen socks and mats from Jaipur. Would it be very cold, I asked, timorously, in my next email. "Cold?" he wrote back, enjoying himself. "You have no idea what cold means. Come and find out." Which is when I began to wonder whether he wanted me to come and visit at all. But then, America is a huge land, so vast that you sometimes change time zones thrice in the course of a single flight between New York and San Francisco. I had my V-USA booked anyway,

A C Timothy went. He hung out at

and any change meant 50 dollars of my hard-earned dough. So, I packed anything that vaguely resembled wool (read a tea cosy and two doilies). New York was cold. Austin was warm. San Diego was balmy. San Francisco was chilly. When the plane descended on Chicago and I peeked out, the sun was bright on Lake Michigan. The water blazed and sailboats were out on the lake. Everything looked like a picture postcard. After the hugs and usual Indian greetings ("You've gone so fat!"), I berated my cousin for misleading me. He smiled mysteriously. He studies rhetoric, I should add, which is mysterious enough. Then we stepped out of the airport and it hit me. "Wind chill factor," said cousin, pulling his monkey cap down over his ears. "It pays to increase your vocabulary."

Many, many years ago, Chicago was a roistering town. It was built, like so much of America, by immigrants looking for a better future. It was therefore an untidy pile of jerrybuilt warehouses, hotels, dormitories, railroad depots, houses of ill repute, anything and everything. Dickens wrote that only a "wash of acid" could clean it up. It took a cow. Legend has it that it was Mrs O'Leary's cow that kicked over a lantern that set the fire that burnt down the city on October 8, 1871. Cautious historians say that the particulars of the fire's origins are unknown, even if it could have originated somewhere near or in her barn. But, given the dry summer and the careless way the city had been built and managed, a kick from a cow would have been sufficient. As A T Andreas, the city's leading nineteenth-century historian, put it, "Nature had withheld her accustomed measure of prevention, and man had added to the peril by recklessness."

T HE P ULLMAN H ISTORIC D ISTRICT WAS BUILT BY RAIL CAR BUILDER , G EORGE P ULLMAN . T HIS IS WHY WE HAVE THE TERM P ULLMAN C AR .

<]@‚pBpu Xuõ dpT @‚p ∫\pBO `v <]@‚pBpu BBSEszVr eXpZOpuõ @‚p ]`Z `v $ Y` \`r ]`Z `v, G`py U}võ‚@‚ [pxYL> ZpeJ> Zù dpvZ @‚pY{ @‚ZOu Zù $ \u `r eS [≥Vr-[≥Vr dp@‚p] @‚pu Ft>Su \p[r eXpZOpuõ @u‚ <SXp{N_tm Zù $ eS dJ>oJ>p<[@‚pdpuõ @‚p Q]{S @‚ZSu @‚p _V_u d•F>p OZr@‚p `v _XsÈr q@‚SpZpuõ _u h@‚ TY{J>S q@‚Yp Gph (e_Xuõ <_U{‚ h@‚ C™J>p [BOp `v) dpvZ eS@u‚ d\[pu@‚S @‚p [s´Â‚ fK>pYp Gph ! T}pErS ∫PpTÝ@‚[p @u‚ Ep`Su \p[u, Ts[XvS <G[u @‚p _U‚Z @‚Z _@‚Ou `võ $ Y` h@‚ dpv pu<B@‚ ]`Z `v $ Zu[ @‚pZ @u‚ <SXp{Op GpxG{ hX. Ts[XvS Su e_u 1880 Xuõ VSpYp Pp ! 120 \^{ TsZpSp Y` ]`Z 1000 T}pErS X@‚pSpuõ @‚√ @‚OpZpuõ @u‚ _pP dV Wr ßYpuõ @‚p Ýpuõ `v $ @‚[p T}u<XYpuõ @u‚ <[h <]@‚pBpu @‚p dpJ>{ ez∫J>rJ>oYtJ> `v $ <\∏\ @‚p Y` h@‚ X`pS ≥Yt<˚YX `v, G`py 300 e{_p Tt\{ _u dpG O@‚ @u‚ T}<_– U}uõ‚E @‚[p @‚√ TuõqJ>õBuõ dpvZ ZuAp-<Em, dXuqZ@‚p, YtZpuT, dU}‚√@‚p, h<]Yp dpvZ [vqJ>S dXuqZ@‚p @‚√ _tΩX h\z _Ép@‚pZr @‚[p @w‚<OYpz \ _zB}`, U‚puJ>puB}pU‚√, J>u°_J>pe[ OPp \p∫Os-@‚[p @w‚<OYpuõ @‚p W™L>pZ <X[uBp $ Y<Q dpT Xt<O{@‚[p Yp B}`puõ @u‚ VpZu Xuõ fQp_rS `võ, Opu <U‚Z hL>[Z Ø[uSuJ>puqZYX Xuõ CtX _@‚Ou `võ $ GV _tZG Lt>VSu [Bu, dpT ]pv@‚√S `puõ Yp S `puõ, Gp˚ @‚p _XY `pu GpOp `v $ dpT Epù Gpu Wr T_zQ @‚ZOu `puõ, <]@‚pBpu dpT @‚p XSpuZzGS d\∏Y @‚ZuBp $ OWr Opu [puB @‚Òu `võ, <]@‚pBpu hu_p ]`Z `v, Gpu `Xu]p GpBOp ZÒp `v $ 26

This gave the city fathers a rare opportunity and they rebuilt their city again, turning it into a grid of right angles through which that wind chill factor now does its dirty business. It also gave Carl Sandburg, honoured son, the opportunity to write his poem, Chicago: “Come and show me another city with lifted head singing, so proud to be alive and coarse and strong and cunning. Flinging magnetic curses amid the toil of piling job on job, here is a tall bold slugger set vivid against the little soft cities…” Not that any of this information was on my mind as I stood outside the next wind-swept morning. We were on our way, cousin and I, to the Shedd aquarium. Why? Because I enjoy watching fish swim. It all seems lazy, effortless, freewheeling. Fish swim the way holidays should be: careless, thoughtless, lazy, streamlined. And if you want to watch fish

swim, nothing like Shedd. From without, it looks like any other Victorian building. Within, it's an educational experience. You can learn all about the habits of the hammer-headed shark, if you believe you will learn something or even remember it five minutes later. If, on the other hand, you have a slightly more accurate assessment of your memory, you will simply enjoy the visual spectacle of the shark wheeling lazily, the piranhas chomping into their lunch and the almost-knowing smiles of the dolphins. Outside, over a little bridge, we stopped to admire the birthplace of the skyscraper. Of course, almost every American city claims it was where the skyscraper was born, but since Frank Lloyd Wright's home and studio were here, I decided it might actually have some merit. A good way to do this is to take a shoreline cruise (it lasts about an hour) and watch the buildings pass by in a stately line of big business.

If older architecture is more your scene, you might want to visit the Pullman District. The Town of Pullman/Pullman Historic District was built as an industrial town in 1880 by rail car builder, George M. Pullman (which, by the way, is why we have the term Pullman car). The 120-year old town was virtually intact, with more than 1,000 original row houses, Pullman Market Hall, and the Queen Annestyle Hotel Florence. Art lovers will want to hang out at the Art Institute of Chicago, which has a veritable embarrassment of riches. This is one of the world's great art museums, with collections dating from 3,000 BC through the present, including famous French Impressionist paintings and drawings; fine and decorative arts from America, Europe, Africa, Asia and Latin America; photography, textiles and architectural works. Then again, the city is itself something of an art experience. Picasso, Alexander Calder, Henry Moore,

Ellen Lanyon and Louise Nevelson were just some of the big names on show. The Cows on Parade exhibition, a sly reminder of Chicago's founding bovine, displayed 320 cows that can still be bought online. Even if you don't care much about sculpture or the stars, find time to go to the Adler Planetarium and walk around Americas' Courtyard by Brazilian artists Denise Milan and Ary Perez. Each of the magnificent hand-cut granite stones represents one of the countries of the Americas. The work consists of four concentric circles of granite, with white marble at its heart. Evenings should be jazz time. At least they were for me. Even if you're not an aficionado, you ought to do a jazz club. Call in advance and make sure you have a reservation — Bar 13, Andy's Jazz Club and The Back Room can pack them in even on a weeknight. Make sure your budget can take it though. The better the performer, in general, the higher the price. But then, that's Chicago, where you'll have "the time of your life" and where there was "even a man who danced with his wife!" ■

FAST FACTS

ones, so check while you're buying. Eating out: There's everything you can ever want here, but you Getting there: Air-India flies must try the Deep Pan Pizza (a truly filling meal) and at least to Chicago six times a week, a few of the 50 kinds of cheesecake the city has to offer. with 3 flights to the city via Vegetarian meals are widely available and, of course, there are London and 3 flights via Indian restaurants. Frankfurt. Best time to visit: January to March is good for those who TheTake gold gilded walls hate crowds. It's also a period when hotel rates and airfares are Getting around: a free of the Royalarea. Temple. at their lowest. trolley in the downtown (below) The huge For the rest, you might wantSquare to Things to do: Celebrate the blues. This is a city known for its Seacon buy a Chicago shopping Transit mall. music, and the Chicago Blues Festival held in Grant Park on Authority pass and just keep the first weekend in June is solid proof. Another event worth hopping on one of those trains checking out is Taste of Chicago, in July, a festival that sees that thunder overhead. The over 100 local eateries serve a hell of a lot of great food. pass also entitles you to bus September boasts the German-American Festival that is held in travel, but not the lower value the heart of an old German neighbourhood at Lincoln Square.

FEEL THE ‘EAT If it's great food you want, Chicago's got some of the best options around. For starters, try these: Fortunato: This new kid on the block serves contemporary Italian fare. (2005 W Division St, Chicago, IL Tel: (773) 645-7200). Hilary's Urban Eatery: The place to be for huge pancakes, amazing sandwiches and some good old macaroni and cheese. (El: Blue Line to Division

1500 W Division St, Chicago, IL. Tel: (773) 235-4327). Brasserie Jo: Got a sweet tooth, try the Profiteroles here — baseball-sized puff pastries filled with vanilla ice cream and drowned in chocolate sauce. (El: Red Line to Grand 59 W Hubbard St, Chicago, IL. Tel: (312) 595-0800). The Indian Garden: As close to home as it gets around these parts. (8110 Saint Louis Ave, Skokie, IL 60076. Tel: (877) 240-5941). Sultan's Market: More amazing vegetarian fare. (2057 W North Ave Chicago, IL 60647. Tel: (773) 235-3072).

120

GREENLAND

120

150

80 N

RUSSIA CANADA

60 N

TORONTO

30 N

MEXICO SAN SALVADOR

DAMASCUS

TRIPOLI

KUWAIT

PERU

LIMA

BAHRAIN

S O URIYADH T H P A C I F I C DOHA OCEAN

JEDDAH

DUBAI

AL-AIN

AFRICA

GWADAR

SUCRE

ABU DHABI

U A E

MUSCAT

ADDIS ABABA

GUWAHATI

MONTEVIDEO BUENOS AIRES

KOLKATA

HYDERABAD

PACIFIC HONGKONG OCEAN

BANGKOK HO CHI MINH CITY

CHENNAI

THIRUVANANTHAPURAM KUALA LUMPUR

I N D I A

GUWAHATI

SINGAPORE

INDIAN OCEAN

ZIMBABWE

AHMEDABAD

LUSAKA

SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN

INDONESIA

DAR-ES-SALAAM

ZAMBIA

KOLKATA

SOUTH AFRICA

HARARE

MADAGASCAR

30 N

NAIROBI

MUMBAI

ARGENTINA

MANILA

20 N

GELES TO LOS AN

PAPUANEW GUINEA

JAKARTA

MAURITIUS

20 S

AUSTRALIA

MAPUTO

300S

HYDERABAD

Air-India’s International Network

GOA

Air-India International Routes

REP. OF YEMEN ADEN

Air-India Code-share Routes BANGALORE

40 S

CHENNAI

KOZHIKODE

Middle-East Network CMYK 133#

GOA KOZHIKODE KOCHI

LUCKNOW

ASUNCION

SANTIAGO

CHILE

DELHI

BANGALORE

DELHI

KARACHI BRASILIA

OMAN

S A U D I A R A B I A

SHANGHAI

INDIA

ARABIA

KHARTOUM

BRAZIL

BOLIVIA

IRAN

TOKYO

OSAKA

AMRITSAR

MOGADISHU

SOUTH P A K I S T A N AMERICA

DAMMAM

KUWAIT

FR.QUETTA GUIANA

TEHRAN

BAHRAIN KARACHI DUBAI MUSCAT AHMEDABAD DOHA JEDDAH ABU DHABI MUMBAI SAUDI

AMRITSAR MONROVIA ABIDJAN LAGOS

LAHORE

SOUTH KOREA SEOUL

EGYPT J O R D A N DAMMAM

DAKAR

CAYENNE

COLOMBIA

ECUADOR

300S

TUNIS

BELIZE

QUITO

IRAQ SYRIA

40 N

BEIJING

UZBEKISTAN

LISBON

UELA N I C A R AVGEUNAE ZCARACAS SANJOSE N PANAMA GEORGETOWN C O S T A R I C A I R A BOGOTA GUYANA

20 S

CHINA

E U R O P E

NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN

LOS ANGELES 0

MONGOLIA

KAZAKHISTAN

MADRID

RABAT

60 N

BERLIN

FRANKFURT VIENNA PARIS ZURICH GENEVA

UNITED STATES NEW YORK OF AMERICA CHICAGO NEWARK

A S I A

MOSCOW

LONDON

40 N

20 N

HELSINKI

OSLO

AMSTERDAM

NORTH AMERICA 0

STOCKHOLM

UNITED KINGDOM

LAKSHADWEEP

KOCHI THIRUVANANTHAPURAM

ANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS

40 S This is a guide map only