Herend Herald 2014/II. | No. 43.
Magazine Of The Herend Porcelain Manufactory
Decor ation
Where Space Rules Secrets of the tr ade
Porcelain in 3d Interesting facts
Wines and Monasteries
2014 | 2015
Where a world unfolds Ahol kinyĂlik a vilĂĄg
Shoko Nakamura balerina
www.opera.hu
In t r o d u c t i o n
Dear
Herend Her ald Reader, have inherited from our forefathers. The future of our grandchildren will judge the value of our actions. The change is in us: by the end of our journey we will be different from what we were at the start. The Herend Porcelain Manufactory has come a long way. From a small workshop founded in 1826, it has evolved into the world’s largest porcelain manufactory. Herend Porcelain is present on every inhabited continent on Earth. It started with just a few porcelain objects, and today, it offers a choice of some 16,000 shapes freely variable with 4,000 painted patterns. We have always been proud of our traditions, the values we have accumulated, but we have never dwelled in our past, we have never sought just to turn it into profit. Instead, we have always looked for new ideas and turned towards the future. We have always been ready for innovation and progress, and have always dared to choose the right direction at crossroads. As a result of nearly 200 years of the Herend Community’s work and achievements, our handcrafted artworks represent never perishing value, singularly high quality and uniqueness of the Herend brand. There is no home interior and style for which we cannot offer a fitting porcelain. We are not a factory but a manufactory, where we still handcraft our artworks.
Every human being is continuously looking for his path amid the seemingly unresolvable contradiction of predestination and free will. Some of us reach our destination, while others are continuously on the go. Our life finds fulfilment in interaction with others, within our family, work, language, history and culture. We cannot accomplish achievements on our own, and it is not a real pleasure to live them on our own. We are not alone on our journey, everyone has a companion: Whose encouragement, providence, trust in us, smile and help with inevitable changes. We come to innumerable crossroads without signposts, where we have to choose a direction to follow. In making the choice we rely on our roots, values, intuitions and experience, as well as on advice from our friends and the ideas of others who help us. With our choices, with our progress on our path, we present an example to the next generations, our children. This is our purpose: to leave even more to the posterity than we
We firmly believe that our manufactory is a valuable heritage for future generations. And now, in the spirit of what has been said above, let me recommend to your kind attention a few articles in the present issue of Herend Herald, such as the story of Budapest’s Millennium Underground Railway, which was unique in its time, or the one about the tradition of winemaking in monasteries. Those who like mushrooms will definitely find pleasure in reading the article about chanterelle, and those who have not tasted it yet, will surely do so after reading the article. And maybe they will be listening to Andalusian music while they are tasting this delicacy. Wishing you an enjoyable time turning its pages, let me recommend to your kind attention the present issue of Herend Herald. Yours sincerely, Dr. Attila Simon Chief Executive Officer
3
co n t en t s
10
Secrets of the tr ade
Gastronomy
Porcelain in 3d
The Little Yellow Evergreen
20
18 Sport
Decor ation
Where Space Rules
Luxury at Sea
12
Events
5
Wines and Monasteries
14
Business
7
The Story of the Budapest Millenium Underground
16
Andalusia – the Melting Pot of Music
8
Luxury at Sea
18
Where Space Rules
10
The Little Yellow Evergreen
20
Porcelain in 3D
12
Herend Porcelain as a Present
22
Herend Herald imprint
Published by the Herend Porcelain Manufactory. v Editor-in-chief: Anna Rajkó Managing editor: Dr. Attila Simon v Editor: Rita Cserhalmi v Design: György Protzner Proofreader: Katalin Faludi v Translation: Zsolt Kozma Photography: Shutterstock, Dávid Kecskeméti Editorial office: Fidelio Média Ltd. H-1066 Budapest, Nyugati tér 1. Phone: +36 1 476-0320, fidelio@fidelio.hu Printed by Keskeny Nyomda Herend Porcelain Manufactory H–8440 Herend, Kossuth Lajos u. 140. Phone: +36 88 523 100, Fax: +36 88 261 518 E-mail: info@herend.com v Web: www.herend.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/Herendporcelan v ISSN 1585-1397
4
e v en t s
The Poet of Porcelain Designer Ákos Tamás’s oeuvre exhibition, titled Herend Design was held at the Dubniczay Palace in Veszprém, close to Herend. 60 this year, Tamás uses the original Herend technology to make his spectacularly thin plates from pastel colour layers of porcelain, along with his transparent organic ornamental objects, vases with colour inlay and lithophane lamps. His works enjoy great popularity in Italy, Greece, Switzerland, Israel, Hong Kong and New Zealand. His artistic excellence has been recognised numerously with quality awards at exhibitions, as well as with three design awards, and the Prime Minister’s special award, the award of Japan’s MINO International Ceramics Festival, the diploma of the 1st Korean World Expo, the special award of the Pécs Ceramics Biennale, the Bojtor Károly Memorial Award and Veszprém County’s Award of Honour.
Befitting from Tradition Like the Herend Porcelain Manufactory, Balatonfüred does not only preserve its traditions but benefits from them. At this year’s annual Anna Ball, which was the 189th, Herend Porcelain Manufactory’s CEO was awarded the prize named after a Martyr of Arad, Ernő Kiss. At the same event, a young lady voted the Belle of the Ball received a Herend vase with the Victoria décor, as is traditional at Anna Balls. Her first lady of honour received a vase with the Rothschild décor, and the second lady of honour one with the Apponyi pattern as courtesy of the Manufactory.
Herend’s New Paths Designer Etelka Meixner’s exhibition Látni és játszani – Herend új útjai (To See and Play – Herend’s New Paths) was held at the Szent Korona Gallery in Székesfehérvár. Herend Porcelain Manufactory’s designer enjoys an ever growing recognition for her works, which include new figurines, ornamental objects and the re-conceptualisation of several traditional décors. Her masterpieces have become popular objects in the homes of a younger generation of customers. Always in search of exciting new directions, Meixner presented some of her new designs for the first time at the exhibition, which was opened by Kossuth and Liszt Award winner opera singer Erika Miklósa.
5
e v en t s
Fertőd
in
The Herend Porcelain Manufactory presented several hundred pieces of Hungary’s most excellent luxury products in the magnificent halls of the Esterházy Castle in Fertőd. The exhibition included the treasured sets of the show’s patrons, Prince Antal Esterházy and his wife.
Descending from the distinguished family, Antal Esterházy grew up surrounded by Herend porcelain. Besides his father’s Esterházy décor set, he often had tea from cups and ate from plates ornamented with the Apponyi décor, from the dowry of her mother, countess Gabriella Apponyi. The family has preserved these relics: besides the ones with the Esterházy and Apponyi patterns, they have sets with the Rothschild décor as well. The prince often recalls stories of the times when after they had f led from Hungary, the family, living poorly but with dignity, ate their meals from Herend Porcelain dishes, much to the surprise of their Austrian, Belgian and French friends and acquaintances. Antal Esterházy’s wife Princess Svetlana also takes her share in bringing the fame of Herend Porcelain to the world: for example, she has organised an exhibition of Herend masterpieces in Saint Petersburg. Herend CEO Attila Simon said that all of their exhibitions have a theme. The one at Fertőd, was prompted by the castle: the guiding principle here was the Esterházy family’s Chinese pattern, which appear primarily on cups, jardinières, ornamental baskets and vases. The motif with Chinese characters and bunches of f lowers is from the times of Miklós Esterházy “the Magnificent”. The exhibition paid tribute to other renowned customers as well, such as the Apponyis, the Batthyánys, and Victoria, Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, by presenting the décors named after them.
6
posztos / Shutterstock.com
White Gold
busine ss
Where the Greatest Meet The Herend Porcelain Manufactory has opened a shop in Barcelona’s elegant department store, El Corte Inglés de Diagonal, part of Europe’s largest department store chains. The company was established in 1940 by Ramón Areces Rodriguez, who had started his business career buying a taylor’s shop in Madrid. With 80 department stores El Corte Inglés de Diagonal is one of the top five chains in the world today. Spanish people consider El Corte Inglés a symbol of their culture. Thanks to the new Herend shop, from now on, customers in Barcelona will have direct access to the masterpieces made by Herend’s world-famous moulders and painters.
For 30 Years in Athens Thanks to Theodore Martionos and his family, Herend porcelain has enjoyed great popularity in Greece for 30 years now. Displayed in Athens’s elegant luxury stores, customers have had the opportunity to experience and purchase Herend masterpieces in environments that matches their great tradition and outstanding quality. Currently, the Herend shop is in the very centre of the city, next to such prestigious brands as Prada, Bjorn, Louis Vuitton or Ferragamo. Today the business is run by the daughter Emilia Martionos, with support from her family. Surrounded by Herend products since her childhood, she is their great admirer and has an excellent knowledge of this renowned porcelain.
A Store for Luxury Connoisseurs – Singapore The masterpieces of the Herendi Porcelain Manufactory have become available in Singapore too! Blue Duna company’s boutique in Singapore presents the Manufactory’s handcrafted pieces, with the owners of the store providing expert’s information about each artefact. “We decided to set up a business and sell the products we are fond of. We are proud that we can offer you the products used by royal and imperial families, presidents and world celebrities. We are proud to offer you the wellknown Herend porcelain, associated with luxury, style, sophistication and the highest quality. Its main value is that each product is made by the skilful hands of the master, and therefore it is unique in its style.”
7
cu lt u r e
Andalusia – the Melting Pot of Music
Andalusians’ pain, solitude and sorrow is woven from velvet and silk, but the joy and glamour of their feasts hides their tears: “He who needs a heart / let him ask for my forgetting,” says Federico Garcia Lorca in his Night-Song of the Andalusian Sailors. Tourists f lock Andalusia by the thousands to experience f lamenco, this feeling of life expressed in music and dance, whose magic has charmed the entire world. Flamenco has numerous versions, but if the dancers use castanets instead of snapping their fingers, then they depart from the ancient tradition to some extent. Nevertheless, it is still a unique experience to visit a tablao, where in the restaurant’s basement you can see from up close how one or more dancers improvise to a guitarist’s rhapsodic music.
8
While other genres of Andalusian folk music show less external inf luence, f lamenco emerged in an intersection of cultures. It is of utmost significance that the Persian musician Ziryab (d. 957) had been hired as the caliph’s court musician in Córdoba. Among other things, he established the first conservatory there. Gestures and modes of expression of Indian origin were
Andalusia is a mesmerising garden in the south-eastern corner of Europe, along the routes to Africa and even to the New World. Columbus also started his journey here. Only the nimbus of its music is comparable to its charm.
deeply integrated in Andalusian peasants’ music and dance, as were elements of American and then African folklore after the colonisation. Flamenco is stylised. It presents the community experience on a wide scale from foot stomping to the technique of plucking the guitar strings – the audience breathes with the performers, shouting and applauding. Through the duende, the neartrans experience, the experience of individual art becomes accessible to everyone. Each element of the performance serves this purpose: the singing, which starts softly and intensifies to angry shouting, whose message comes through to some extent even for those who do not understand the lyrics; the way the guitarist answers the singer and inspires them; the way the dancer gives up themselves to the whirl of movements; the clapping and shouting. And of course, the fitting attire: tight trousers, frilled shirts, boots or shoes with hard heels for men; long, frilled dresses gracefully tight around the waist, shawls, f lower in the hair and lively colours for women – all these attributes turn the everyday into a feast. Kornél Zipernovszky
Did You Know? Guitar legend Paco De Lucia, who died this year, was the most famous moderniser of f lamenco. He was born in Algeciras, Andalusia, where his statue had already been erected in his lifetime. He opened f lamenco up towards such styles as bossa nova, rock, blues and most importantly, jazz – for which he was often criticised by conservative traditionalists. This is how De Lucia replied to them: “I have never abandoned my musical roots because then I would have lost my way. What I tried was holding on to tradition with one hand and reaching out with the other to scratch about, looking for things to integrate in f lamenco.”
9
d eco r at i o n
Where
Space
rules
In 19th Century Europe, they were primarily popular with artists. In the early 20th Century industrial buildings served as temporary lodgings. Then, with time lofts came into fashion, and by today, they have evolved into parts of a lifestyle, were a Herend masterpiece may become a focus point in the huge space.
photos: DĂĄvid KecskemĂŠti
Lofts have a history. In the 1800s, these huge spaces with profuse natural light from outside were popular only with painters and sculptors. Due to their position in a building, the name has remained loft ever since. Between the world wars, lofts became less of artistic places, rather, they were used as temporary accommodation for people. As there was no other solution to shelter people, abandoned industrial buildings were appropriated and made a little comfortable. In the decades of prosperity, they became fashionable with their large space, light, huge surfaces, stone, concrete, metal and design.
The rough concrete surface with snow-white panels looks fine, but a classical, old-style brick wall also makes a fine background in a loft f lat or office. Large windows are indispensable, but curtains are rare in these spaces. If there are curtains, they are f lat. Venetian blinds or roller blinds fit this type of interior best, where natural or artificial light is supposed to f lood the space freely. Household textile is very rare in these spaces, and so are vivid colours. White, black, gray and brown dominate, with just one or two pieces of furniture with lively colours here and there as counterpoints. Such colourful pieces add a lot to the vast monochrome interiors.
By the 21st Century a type of elegant lofts has emerged with a clear, well defined structure, no longer necessarily in industrial buildings. In our days, architects no longer replan existing places to turn them into lofts. Rather, they design and construct lofts by definition to be f lats or offices.
As usually oversize pieces of furniture are used, small, surprising elements may add even more to the atmosphere. A tiny white graceful dancer figurine on a simple chest of drawers can attract the eye delicately, or a glowing red eastern dragon can animate a corner of the peaceful spot on the night table beside the kingsize bed. Sarolta SzĂĄlka
The walls marking the boundaries of the space are usually unpainted, or if they are painted, they are one of five shades of gray.
10
11
Secr e t s
o f
t h e
t r a d e
Porcelain in
3D
Visiting the Porcelánium at the Herend Porcelain Manufactory’s Visitors’ Centre has always been an unforgettable experience, but since August, it featurs the most mesmerizing show in its history. Using state- of-the-art technology, the Pocelánium now presents a 3D film etude about the secrets of porcelain making. Elegant, fascinating, representing classical values as well as being
visitors’ space, we have reached yet another landmark on our path.
modern, innovative and trendy, the Manufactory’s new film was
A key element of this innovative project is a new, 3D film, using 21st
made with the same care and attention as Herend masters make the
century technology, offering visitors a unique visual experience,”
splendid, fully handcrafted Herend porcelain.
Simon added, pointing out that a decisive factor in Herend’s success is a unique combination of tradition and innovation.
How is the heavy paste transformed into fragile porcelain? What is the secret of Herend porcelain’s success? How does this material become
The 8-minute movie was made by a crew of 20 in 3 days on several
alive as it is molded, potted and painted by excellent masters? What
locations, using a number of brilliantly innovative solutions. Making
are the elements and process of artistic ornamentation? These are
a 3D film takes about three times as many people and three times as
some of the questions answered by the new film at the Manufactory.
much equipment and time as a traditional 2D image film – not to
Perhaps one of Herend’s most significant marketing attractions this
mention the huge space it requires (just consider the 3D movies shown
year, alongside the secrets of porcelain making, the film also tells the
in shopping centres). Therefore, it was a special challenge to shoot the
mesmerizing story of a painter and his Muse, in an elegant setting,
scenes of the film in the small rooms of the Manufactory, and also to
presenting high-class lifestyle.
record the process of porcelain making, which is extremely exciting but although it is meticulous work, it involves only very little spectacular
“We are in a constant pursuit of the new, of the future,“ says Herend
movement and action. Besides animations, the answer to the challenge
Dr. Attila Simon in the ‘making of’ documentary of the video. ”And
was keeping the cameras in constant motion, using cranes and macro
now, reopening our remodeled visitors’ centre, with a new portal and
lenses. The on-site shooting was preceded by two weeks of hard work,
12
Secr e t s
o f
t h e
t r a d e
preparing the sites to meet the requirements of the 3D shooting, and also preparing over 200 pieces shown in the film. Work could not be halted at the Manufactory during the two days of shooting: the 40odd participants of the project, potted and painted as usually, only now they did so in spotlight, surrounded by camera stands and rails. The film etude’s f low, its charm is provided by a little narrative, w h i c h takes place in a magnificent ball room and a f lat decorated with Herend porcelain. The narrative is fully in line with the story of the Herend master, also shown in the film, who finds the same harmony and fulfillment in his work and family as the painter and his Muse who live in glamour.
Anna Rajkó
13
In t er e s t in g
probably all agree that good wine needs no
praise.
This
Wines and
is especially true of wines that were
Middle Ages. These wines needed no promotion – they sold themselves. Mostly because they might even have had no competitors in their regions. made in monasteries in the
Monasteries
In the Eleventh Hour Today’s artisan wines are what monastery wines once used to be. Although alcohol was very popular already in the Antiquity, the popularity of quality wine coincided with the spread of Christianity. The reason for this was that with the spread of the new religion, monasteries, these building complexes characteristic of Christianity, emerged. Due to its poor quality, earlier wine could only be consumed with water or mixed with honey. However, the wines made by monks could be drunk undiluted. With the fall of the Roman Empire, the methods of wine making were almost forgotten, but luckily, monks’ orders, living a humble life, preserved the precious know-how and improved it over the centuries.
Did You Know? b Mead (honey beer) in fact often meant honey wine. Honey was added to sour, quickly acetifying wine to make it drinkable. b In the 4th century, the Benedictine order included a chapter on wine consumption in its book of rules: “Considering the weakness of the powerless, we hold that one hemina of wine will suffice for each of them.” Hemina was the unit – as many gulps or glasses as raises the spirit, cheers you up, boosts your strength and creativity, and makes you wise and joyous. b The obligatory information on wine bottles goes back to ancient Greece. In those days, wine was stored in earthenware pitchers, which made it necessary to tell on the vessels whether they hold red or white wine and where the wine came from.
14
Jearu / Shutterstock.com
We
fac t s
International Success from a Logistical Solution
Everybody’s Favourites Like in our days, in the Middle Ages and the Modern Age as
There were several reasons for churches and monasteries to
well, there were wines considered the best of the best. In the
pursue viticulture on their own land. Firstly, this way they could
Middle Ages, wines of produced by the orders of Melk (Austria),
ensure a steady supply of communion wine by avoiding the high
Pannonhalma (Hungary) and Klosterneuburg (Austria) were
degree of uncertainty in transports reaching the monastery or
in the highest esteem – they were the gold medal winners, if
church. Secondly, they generated revenues by selling surplus.
you like. Although wine making was not a church monopoly,
Thirdly, wine became a catalyst of social life in the monastery.
the best nectars came from monasteries. And sometimes they
Fourthly, it became the source of part of the monks’ daily vitamin
were quite expensive, too. In those days, one of the signs of
intake. As the orders often exchanged or shared codices, many
wealth was the quality and amount of wine one could offer to
superiors and also seminarists in charge of growing grapes and
their guests. The importance of winemaking is also shown by
vegetables became familiar with the secrets of winemaking.
the fact that until the 18th century, only the church possessed
Regions soon came to have their local types of grapes – and
technological information that has since become available to
wines. The main evidence of their success is the fact that in the
anyone, including the most prestigious wineries.
Middle Ages, numerous songs were sung by poets in praise of the precious nectar, originating from the Mediterranean. The lyrics tell us not only how wine grew in popularity but also how
Gábor Petrikó
it spread geographically: soon after the songs extolling wine produced in Mediterranean countries, references to wines from the Rhine valley and Northern Gaul appeared in the lyrics.
15
h is to r y
The Story of the Budapest
Millenium
Underground
Underground, shallow subway, underground tram, little metro, yellow underground – the line has had numerous names during its 118 years of history to date. One reason for that is its history, while the other is that it has, since the very start, been popular with locals as well as visitors, young and old. And although it is officially considered the city’s No. 1 metro line, in fact, only tourists call it the ‘M1’.
1895, photo: Fortepan
photo: Fortepan
Did You Know? Gellért tér and Fővám tér, two stations of Budapest’s newest, M4 metro line, opened in 2014, have won the 2014 A+ Award in the Bus & Train Stations category. The A+ Popular Choice Award was established in 2013 jointly by the world leading architecture website Architizer.com, the Wall Street Journal and The Webbys. Outstanding pieces of architecture from all over the world competed before a 200-strong panel of judges in over 60 categories, plus some 200,000 people voted in the Popular Choice, and 80 million visitors downloaded competitors’ pages on the internet. Buildings from across the globe were entered for the American architecture magazine’s competition. The category winning metro stations were designed by young Hungarian architect, who won the Jury’s prize as well as the People’s Choice. Both stations were designed in the contemporary spirit of ’visible concrete’, on a total area of 7,100 m2 each. The two stations in Budapest came in before one in Switzerland and three in the US.
16
h is to r y
The underground is not a metro line – it is an underground train. Neither the depth of its tunnel and rails, nor its electricity supply, nor the distances between its stations comply with the metro standards – they are much closer to the definition of tram.
The First Electric in Europe When opened in 1896, the line was the first in Continental Europe (the world-first was launched in London in 1863, with steam engines), and the original plans were made for a narrowgauge railway line under the woodblock-paved surface of Main Avenue, today’s Andrássy Avenue. The line was to run under the surface because the city’s Board of Public Works did not approve of constructing a surface tramline.
Revolutionary Idea At the end of the 19th century, Hungary was fervently preparing for the Millennium, and Budapest was heading full steam (literally) for the Millennium Expo, part of which was the modernisation of public transport in the city. A narrow gauge railway line was already badly needed on Main Avenue as omnibuses and the trams on Király street were getting heavily overloaded, but the city council did not want to deface the wide avenue with rails, poles and cables. Following a visit to London, Head of the Budapest Tramline and City Railway, Mór Balázs started preparations for drafting the plans and then launching the construction of an underground tramline. After obtaining the last licenses, the company had only 21 months to complete the construction – by the opening of the Millennium Expo.
Superfast Construction A tunnel, over 3 kilometres long, was dug from its two ends, while the construction of finely ornamented stations also began from selected, high quality materials. As the work progressed, the wooden pavement was replaced with cobble stones along the avenue. The height of the tunnel was limited to 2.65 meters by the main sewage collector on Nagykörút (Grand Boulevard), under which the subway cars had to pass. The construction was completed by the deadline in a record time of 20 months. Far ahead of its time in every respect, the line with electric cars was inaugurated by Emperor József Ferenc (Franz Joseph) on 3 May. 1896, and operated unchanged until 1973. Then, after multiple technological changes, directions also changed, from left-hand traffic, which had survived from before World War II, to running on the right.
World Heritage By 1995, it had been time to reconstruct the 100-year-old line. Parts of Hungary’s historical heritage, the stations were renovated in their original style, using materials identical with the original ones, while the cars were changed to modern ones. Fully reconstructed the Millennium Underground Train, along with Andrássy Avenue, was listed as UNESCO World Heritage in 2002. Although not exactly suitable for sightseeing proper, the underground is a popular (if not the favourite) means of transport for tourists in Budapest, the stations in the city centre allowing them to travel back in time by over a century. The line and the stations are also popular with international film makers, such as the producers of the 2003 blockbuster fantasy Underworld. Tamás Fodor
1954, photo: Fortepan
17
S P ORT
Where
the sky is the brightest blue, where stars gather
above
the
duchy
hosts
azure the
sea,
the
largest
world’s
yacht
show
second on
the
smallest planet.
Prince Albert II invites you on board!
Lying in the shadow of scary switchback roads and magnificent cliffs on the French Riviera, the microstate of Monaco along with its capital, Monte Carlo with its palm trees and white villas stands as the illustration of the term: luxury. The air is saturated with the scent of money, of course, blended with the best French perfumes. Since 1991, its Hercules port has been a meeting point for the leading yacht manufacturers, yacht builders and designers, and of course, for captains in love with their yachts as well as for yacht lovers. Let us take a walk along the shore, among the sparkling white tents with the crowd swarming all around. Some 500 exhibitors from about 50 countries present their f loating miracles, 115 of which are on view live here in the harbour. The piers of the port are too small to present all the yachts. Motorboats carry visitors from yacht to yacht moored to f loating stages out at sea. The vessels exhibited are 25 to 100 meters long but those who want to make luxury yacht history should consider one from 200 to 250 meters. Do not look for a price tag on the boats. The pieces here are made to order. Some people want helicopter pads on their yachts, while others want to park their private jets in the hull. Some owners like snow-white minimalism, others champagne colour, royal blue or pink, dressed in art-deco. Visitors get on board in awe, barefooted, by appointment only. Meanwhile, the exhibition is not only about insanely lavish spending. The event’s patron is Prince Albert II, whose purpose with the four-day event is to raise funds for the fight against Duchenne muscular dystrophy.
18
Sea
Luxury at
Environmental protection is also a consideration. The boats’ engines emit almost no pollutants, and the exhibition pays ecology tax after the tens of thousands of visitors and the yachts’ CO2 emission. The revenues are used to support environmental projects. Besides Monaco, Dubai and Fort Lauderdale in Florida are also the yacht-lovers’ paradise. However, this time, we will sail on to another microstate, Singapore. It is hard to believe today that this geographically strategic port, which has made the centre of the former British Empire one of the world’s most developed and prosperous countries, a 100 years ago was a sloppy place, packed with lake dwellings. Today, it is a city with hypermodern skyscrapers and avenues. This year, the city hosted the fourth Singapore Yacht Show at the award winning ONE°15 Marina, showcasing some 100 boats, ranging from jet-skis to mega-yachts at a total value of around half a billion US dollars. The show attracted 14,000 visitors. Like in Monaco, in Singapore too, the luxury yacht feeling comes with lavish cocktail parties and gala dinners, held mostly aboard yachts, with fashion and jewellery shows, and of course, with tons of caviar. And quite naturally, the tables are decorated with Herend porcelain, sold in one of the most popular luxury boutiques in Singapore. Szilvia Sipos
Did You Know? The top 10 of the world’s most expensive yachts has been compiled this year again. Even the cheapest of the ten, movie producer David Geffen’s enormous Oracle Corporation, with 82 cabins on 5 decks, costs USD 200 million. Owned by an unnamed business mogul, History Supreme, aka Baia 100 SUPREME, is worth USD 4.8 billion. What costs so much? The unique meteorite and dinosaur bone inlay and the golden and platinum plating. But this is not all. Russian billionaire Roman Abramovich, the owner of the Chelsea football team is the runner-up with a 560-foot monster, with a helicopter pad, three boats and a submarine. The top list also includes a boat that has not even been completed yet: as its name indicates, Streets of Monaco is inspired by Monaco’s streets, and is already claimed to be the world’s largest and safest yacht. And it will be presented on no other occasion than the Monaco Yacht Show.
19
G a s t r o n o m y
Chanterelle - vade-mecum b don’t eat it raw b you can store it for several days in cool, well aired places b tiny chanterelles have a more intense taste than bigger ones b in Hungary, the best localities are in the Aggtelek region and the Cserehát mountains b in Germany they call it ’egg mushroom’ (Eierschwamm), and all of its species are protected b in many recipes it can replace truffle, which is more difficult to come by b the best way to store it is to make powder out of it. Mixing it with 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls of flour will lend a unique taste to sauces and soups b rosemary, thyme and sage are the herbs that go best with it b wines aged in wooden barrels match its distinctive taste best
The Little
Yellow
Evergreen
Small
and fragile, with a unique taste and flavor.
A competitor of truffle in Sometimes it has the smell of the forest, sometimes of apricot – its aroma is unmistakable. The yellow chanterelle’s localities are kept in secret in the lucky regions where it grows – from the Himalayas to Transylvania, from South Germany to the Cserehát Mountains in Hungary. popularity.
The yellow chanterelle has been known in Europe and North
calcium, magnesium, manganese, phosphorus and zinc,
America since the 1500s. It grows in small or large groups
one of the best natural sources of the vitamins C and D,
on mossy slopes, beech-groves, oak forests, hornbeam
and also containing vitamins B2, B3, B5 and B6. After the
groves, ravine slopes or hazel bushes.
1830s, chanterelle became available to a much wider circle of consumers. Besides royal courts, everyday people also
In South Germany and many parts of Austria, dishes made
came to like its unique taste. Shepherds, for example, filled
with chanterelle are considered local specialties. French
it with cottage cheese and fried it on ember.
chefs hold it in high esteem as an indispensable ingredient of souff lés and various sauces. In Bhutan, at the foot of the Himalaya, locals charm tourists with a dish called Sisi Shamu, made with chanterelle. While in our days, there is an abundance of chanterelle on the markets, until the 1700s, only gourmet aristocrats had the chance to savor this mushroom, with its massive f lesh, crisped skirt, rich in protein, potassium, iron,
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Anna Rajkó
G a s t r o n o m y
photo: Gellért Áment
Recommended by the
Apicius Restaurant Ingredients –Serves 4
Fillet of Trout with Creamy Chanterelle R agout and Parsnip Purée Season trout with salt, pepper, garlic, lemon juice, roll it and fix with pin. Fry to crispy in mix of olive oil and butter. Boil parsnip in milk, add salt. When cooked, mash parsnip, mix with its liquid, add Parmesan and whisk.
trout filleted baby spinach chanterelle, cleaned and chopped parsnip, cleaned and chopped finely Parmesan grated cream onion chopped finely milk, salt, ground pepper, parsley leaves, garlic, olive oil, butter, lemon
4 80 g 200 g 600 g 20 g 1,5 dl 20 g
Brown chanterelle in oil and butter, add onion, season with salt, pepper and parsley, add cream, bring to boil, add spinach. Serve trout with parsnip purée and chanterelle ragout with cream. Ingredients – Serves 4
Hare Saddle Filled with Thyme, Chanterelle, with Tomato, String Beans and Polenta on the Side
hare saddle cleaned and filleted chanterelle cleaned onion peeled and diced string bean cleaned tomato peeled and diced polenta butter, olive oil, salt, pepper, thyme, garlic, spring onion, cherry tomatoes, parsley (finely chopped), fat of goose or duck
600g 300g 60g 200g 80g 200g
Cut chanterelle into large pieces, heat butter and olive oil in pan, brown chanterelle, add sliced spring onion and half of diced onion. Season with salt, pepper, thyme, parsley. Open hare saddle lengthwise, beat slightly, season with salt, pepper, add chanterelle filling, roll up and wrap in aluminium foil. Heat goose or duck fat to 160°C, put wrapped saddle rolls in, and put in oven preheated to 120°C for appr. 45 minutes. To cook polenta: boil water, add salt, pepper, garlic and cook with polenta. When it separates from side of pot add 1 tablespoon butter. Scald string beans in salted water, brown onion in oil and butter, add tomato, cocktail tomato, string beans. Season with salt, pepper, garlic, stir slightly. Serve hare saddle with garnish on side.
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