THE DENVER POST
Winter Getaways Nov. 14, 2021 | $5
12 festivals to brighten any winter day | Page 8
9 great winter hikes around the Front Range | Page 12
For the readers of The Denver Post, Boulder Daily Camera, Longmont Times-Call, Loveland Reporter-Herald, Cañon City Daily Record and Greeley Tribune
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Plan ahead for a great day of skiing By Dena Rosenberry The Denver Post
As the snow flies in the high country, Coloradans are inching back toward normal (sweet, sweet normal) from 2020’s heightened pandemic-related restrictions. We aren’t out of the clear, however, so you can expect rules and requirements this ski season that are aimed at keeping everyone healthy and enjoying winter fun and games. You’re encouraged to check resort, lodging, activity and restaurant websites before heading out from home (or calling ahead, imagine that!) — mask and vaccine requirements and advance-purchase rules are apt to quickly change. If you’re heading to a ski area, try to purchase all passes, lift tickets, lessons, activity entry and rentals in advance, online. It decreases person-to-person contact and will speed up the process once you’re on the mountain. You can expect mask requirements on shuttle buses, when riding gondolas, and when entering SEASON » 3
Skiers and snowboarders arrive for opening day at Arapahoe Basin Ski Area on Oct. 17. Helen H. Richardson, The Denver Post
What’s inside How to avoid I-70 when you hit the slopes | Page 4
Cover photo
The best places to visit when you don’t ski | Page 5-6
The Mountain View cabin at Beyul Retreat on Oct. 29. Beyul offers cabins and lodge rooms, wood-fired sauna, hot tub, and more for a winter getaway. Nearby trails are perfect for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Andy Cross, The Denver Post
12 festivals to brighten any winter day | Page 8-9 Where to fly down a hill on a snow tube | Page 10 Looking for fresh lines? Take a hike. | Page 11 9 great winter hikes around the Front Range | Page 12-13 The perfect winter pairing: slopes and soaks | Page 14-15
Editor: Dena Rosenberry
drosenberry@denverpost.com
Copy Editor: Maureen Burnett Designer: Lauren Fagan
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SEASON «FROM 2 lodges, restrooms, restaurants and retail and rental locations. Some ski areas, including Vail Resorts, which owns Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge, Keystone and Crested Butte in Colorado, will require proof of vaccination to dine at indoor on-mountain, cafeteriastyle restaurants this season. Unlike last season, reservations will not be required for skiing and snowboarding across Colorado, and ski areas will not require masks in lift lines or on chairlifts, unless local public health policies change. Most ski areas plan to run lifts and gondolas at normal capacities; some will accommodate guests who request to be seated only with members of their party. Take special care if you are traveling with young children. Childcare facilities will be closed at most, if not all, ski areas.
Seriously folks, check before you go — it’ll minimize unnecessary conflict and disappointment (and we’ve all had more than our fill of that in the last 20 months). For example, Aspen Snowmass is requiring guests wear CDC-approved masks inside its gondolas — your colorful buff won’t do. Do your part and be prepared. With all that said, it’s time to shred. See you on the mountain!
Ski area openings
Early snow and a heaping helping of the human-made white stuff allowed Wolf Creek, Arapahoe Basin, Keystone and Loveland ski areas to open in recent weeks. At press time, Breckenridge and Vail were scheduled to open Nov. 12. The rest of Colorado’s ski areas are planning these opening dates for 2021-22: Winter Park: Nov. 17 Eldora: Nov. 19 Purgatory: Nov. 20 Steamboat: Nov. 20
DENVERPOST.COM
5 new features • Steilhang Hut, Arapahoe Basin. This new German-style
alpine hut near the top of the ski area will feature Colorado-made specialty sausages, German-style craft beer from Prost Brewing Co., soft pretzels and strudel made by Denver bakeries and a wraparound deck. It may be our new hangout. • Loveland snowcat tours in Dry Gulch, on the north side of I-70. The snowcat will provide guided backcountry tours in 580 acres of open bowl and tree skiing. • McCoy Park, Beaver Creek. This 250-acre expansion is aimed at giving beginner and intermediCopper Mountain: Nov. 22 Beaver Creek: Nov. 24 Crested Butte: Nov. 24 Aspen Mountain: Nov. 25 Snowmass: Nov. 25 Telluride: Nov. 25 Silverton: Nov. 25
CLOSE TO HOME,
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ate skiers a sense of the bowl-skiing experience. Enjoy 17 runs and two chairlifts here. • Ember at Snoasis, Winter Park. There’s something lovably old school about Snoasis, a midmountain restaurant built in the 1960s. This season it will add outdoor dining with a fire wall and a new menu of “global cuisines” and a “cut of the day,” such as lamb or wild game. • Big changes at the Steamboat base. In the first phase of a three-year, $135 million redevelopment project, the base area has opened up. You’ll quickly see that the lower gondola terminal has been moved 300 feet up the slope.
— John Meyer, The Denver Post
Powderhorn: Nov. 26 Howelsen Hill: Nov. 27 Cooper: Dec. 8 Aspen Highlands: Dec. 11 Buttermilk: Dec. 11 Granby Ranch: Dec. 11 Sunlight: Dec. 12
Make our home your getaway. Renew and unwind at The Broadmoor with Winter Spectacular rates starting at $259 per night. Pamper your body and revitalize your mind in our luxury spa and fitness center. Savor delightful meals in our award-winning restaurants. Or take on an adventure with some of our Broadmoor experiences such as falconry, zip lining, mountain biking and more. It’s all here, just a short drive away, waiting for you and your family. You deserve it.
Visit broadmoor.com and prepare to be enchanted. Based on space availability for selected dates November 2021 through March 2022. Not applicable to groups. Rates do not include applicable taxes and fees. Valid for new bookings only.
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How skiers can avoid dreaded I-70 traffic By R. Scott Rappold Special to The Denver Post The Interstate 70 corridor in Colorado is home to eight of the state’s largest ski resorts. It may be the greatest concentration of ski lifts this side of the Alps.
From the foothills west of Denver to the Eisenhower Tunnel to the Vail Valley, Front Range skiers regularly use the highway to access Loveland, Arapahoe Basin, Keystone, Breckenridge, Vail, Beaver Creek, Copper Mountain and Winter Park. There’s no good way around it and little public transit. Not surprisingly, the I-70 corridor also has some of the worst ski traffic in the known universe. Every metro-area skier has a story about sitting for hours on the snowy highway no matter how early they set the alarm on Saturday morning or what time they left a ski area to head home on Sunday afternoon. It’s a stretch of highway never meant to handle such high traffic volumes, where it only takes one jackknifed semi or fender bender to bring the whole sorry mess to a halt. It’s enough to make a downhill weekend warrior abandon the sport. But rather than hanging up your skis in frustration, there’s a better option: Head off the beaten interstate path to some of the more outof-the-way ski areas. Yes, you’ll put more miles on the car, but wouldn’t you rather be moving on a twisting highway than sitting on I-70 wondering who crashed their car to cause such a miserable backup? (Answer: Nobody did. It’s just too many skiers not carpooling on top of the already heavy truck and passenger-vehicle traffic.) If you have a season pass, check the fine print: You might get a discount or even free days at these smaller resorts.
Monarch Mountain
The secret is out about this small ski area on the Continental Divide in central Colorado. Once the domain of Salida locals and Colorado Springs day trippers, more and more Denver-area skiers are finding their way here. It doesn’t have the 3,000 vertical feet of larger ski
A snowboarder glides down a run into frosty trees at Monarch Mountain without another rider in sight on Jan. 2. Andy Cross, Denver Post file
hills, but it also rarely has lift lines or traffic jams. Nor hard, machinemade snow (it’s all natural.) The drive on U.S. 285 from Morrison will seem like a delight if you’ve ever spent two hours moving 2 miles on I-70. The fact Monarch partners with several other ski areas on lift tickets will make your budget happy. Location: Monarch Pass, U.S. 50 Distance from Denver: 160 miles Where to stay: The Monarch Mountain Lodge is just minutes from the resort, or stay in Salida for a greater selection of restaurants and night life. Skiable acres: 800 Colorado pass partners: Arapahoe Basin, Cooper, Copper Mountain, Loveland, Purgatory, Sunlight Info: skimonarch.com
Wolf Creek Ski Area
If you’ve ever skied on 23 inches of snow that fell in one night, it just might have been at this southern Colorado ski area. When storms come out of the Southwest, it gets pounded — to the tune of 430 inches a year. Powder hounds know: When it’s pouring in Southern California and the winds are right, it’s time to head to Wolf Creek. There’s no base village, posh boutiques or ski-in, ski-out condos, just good old-fashioned skiing, the way it used to be. Location: Wolf Creek Pass, U.S.
160, between South Fork and Pagosa Springs Distance from Denver: 250 miles Where to stay: South Fork has numerous hotels and cabin rentals and is more affordable (and closer to Denver) than the Pagosa Springs side of the pass. Skiable acres: 1,600 Colorado pass partners: None Info: wolfcreekski.com
Eldora Mountain
Sitting just 21 miles west of Boulder, this small, family-friendly ski area has become the go-to for metro residents sick of I-70. You can even take a bus there, which is a good idea if you’re a solo weekend warrior because single-occupant vehicles must pay $10 to park on weekends and holidays. The mountain also benefits from upslope storms, so if there’s snow on your lawn in Denver there’s probably a lot more on the hill. Location: West of Boulder on Colorado 72 (Peak to Peak Highway) Distance from Denver: 50 miles Skiable acres: 680 Colorado pass partners: Ikon Passholders get unlimited access Info: eldora.com
Crested Butte Mountain Resort
Steep and deep with jaw-dropping views. That about sums it up for this central Colorado resort.
With some of the steepest terrain in the industry, this is a mountain where you put it all on the line and impress (or scare) yourself. Of course, you’ll want good snow for a 55-degree pitch, such as on Rambo, the steepest cut run in North America. Add to the experience the dining and nightlife of delightful Crested Butte and you have a perfect ski weekend without setting a tire on I-70. (Don’t worry, newbies and cruisers, there’s plenty of fun for skiers of all abilities at the Butte.) Location: Crested Butte Distance from Denver: 230 miles Where to stay: For a modern resort experience you can’t beat the base village, though the town of Crested Butte also has a charm all its own. Skiable acres: 1,547 Colorado pass partners: Epic Pass holders get unlimited access Info: skicb.com
Winter Park Resort
We know what you’re thinking: “I’ve sat for hours on I-70 trying to make it to the turnoff to Berthoud Pass and Winter Park.” Why drive when you can take the Winter Park Express train from downtown Denver, all while soaking in the mountain views through floor-toceiling windows? The train runs Fridays, Saturdays and Sunday and typically sells out, so book early and cross your fingers for good snow. It’s a unique experience in Colorado, though ski trains have long been all the rage in Europe. Just think how much you’ll appreciate not having I-70 in your life for those hours. Location: Depart from Union Station in Denver Distance from Denver: 56 miles (But who cares? You’re not driving.) Skiable acres: 3,081 Colorado pass partners: Ikon Pass holders get unlimited access Info: winterparkresort.com Still need your fix of Breckenridge, Keystone or Copper? Drive U.S. 285 instead of I-70, and stop for coffee and a breakfast burrito in Fairplay or Alma. For an even greater chance of avoiding traffic, ski on a weekday.
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Top getaways that don’t involve skis By Sarah Lamagna Special to The Denver Post Not being a skier in Colorado is the equivalent of blurting “Voldemort” at Hogwarts. People look at you in shock. How dare you not ski?!
The thing is, skiing and snowboarding can be pricey — season pass or lift ticket, skis or snowboard, boots, helmet, and layers of cold-weather gear. Plus, trying to get anywhere in the mountains along I-70 is so … trying. So what else is there to do, then? Turns out, there’s a lot more to Colorado in winter than shredding pow. You can snowshoe to a glorious, four-course dinner, spectate at an elite ice-climbing competition, soak your muscles in a hot springs, or ride through a snowy wonderland by train. Read on for tips to find fun off the slopes.
Leadville
Billed as the highest city in the country, Leadville is surrounded by fourteeners and is home to snow almost year-round. You could try summiting a peak, but this is recommended only if you have experience climbing in winter. Fortunately, you don’t have to climb one to enjoy great mountain views here. There are world-renowned trails for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Or take the 1-mile trail to the Tennessee Pass Cookhouse for a four-course dinner with a backdrop like no other. Plan your visit around Crystal Carnival Weekend (March 5 and 6) and enjoy the skijoring — kind of like waterskiing, but instead of water there’s snow and instead of a boat there’s a horse. That’s right! A horse and rider gallop down the street towing a rope — and on the other end of that rope there’s a person on skis. They race through downtown in a series of jumps. It’s a hootin’-hollerin’ good time! And if someone in your group does want to ski, Ski Cooper is a short drive away.
Ouray
This southwestern mountain
Marc Ruble takes a group out for a ride with Alpine Adventures. There are several places to take dogsled rides in Colorado. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file climbing isn’t your thing. You can soak in the hot springs, walk around Box Canyon Falls Park, drive along the Million Dollar Highway, or hike the Ouray Perimeter Trail. If someone in your group does want to ski, it’s not far to Telluride.
Cortez
Sydney Fox of Breck Bike Guides cruises down a trail near Breckenridge on a fat bike on Jan. 17, 2015. Andy Cross, Denver Post file town isn’t always easy to get to (keep your eye on storms), but once you’re there, you’ll quickly understand why it’s called the “Little Switzerland of Colorado.” Ouray is a winter dreamscape nestled in a valley between high mountain cliffs. Every year, staff
at Ouray Ice Park turn Uncompahgre Gorge into frigid walls of ice fit for the most talented climbers. You can try the sport yourself or simply watch others. Visit in January to watch the best ice climbers in the world compete. There are plenty of other activities, if ice
If you’re looking for a perfect après ski atmosphere without ever skiing, head to Cortez, between Canyons of the Ancients National Monument and Mesa Verde National Park. It’s a great area in winter since crowds are minimal and the views are endless. You can hike or bike for miles. And finding sustenance is easy on Cortez’s main drag and in surrounding towns. Grab a pint at WildEdge Brewing Collective, Main Street Brewery, or J Fargo’s Micro Brewery and pair it with pub favorites (the beer nachos are incredible at WildEdge). Dolores River Brewery and Mancos Brewing Co. are good options if you venture furNO SKI » 6
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NO SKI «FROM 5 ther from town. The Farm Bistro just off Main Street has a new lounge that serves only Colorado beer, wine and spirits. Plus, it offers a true farm-to-table experience described as delivering “comfort food with style.” Yum.
Buena Vista
Opt to warm yourself instead of freeze on the slopes with a trip to Buena Vista. There’s a large concentration of hot springs in the area to soak the weariest muscles. Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort offers pools of varying temperatures and even a 400-foot water slide. Or rent a private cabin at Antero Hot Springs or the Merrifield Homestead Cabins for a more secluded retreat. Head south to find Joyful Journey Hot Springs or Salida Hot Springs and Aquatic Center to swim in one of the largest indoor hot springs pools in the country. If something more exciting beckons, try Monarch Dog Sled rides. Have you ever wondered what it’s like to be in the Iditarod? It’s not as easy as you might think to stay standing on a dog sled. Not to worry, though, if you don’t want to drive the dogs; you can stay seated up front. Make sure to bundle up and wear goggles since snow is bound to get kicked up into your face.
Cripple Creek
Cripple Creek is known for the casinos lining its main street, but there’s more to this town than you might realize. Visit in February, and you’ll find the downtown corridor transforms into a wonderland of ice as the town hosts the state’s largest ice carving competition. Artists from all over try their hand at creating masterpieces from hundreds of pounds of ice. There’s an ice maze for kids to outwit, an ice slide for those who are a kid at heart, and even an ice martini bar! It’s a lot of fun for the whole family.
Georgetown
You may have to fight ski traffic for a bit to get to Georgetown, but it’s worth it. It’s the perfect familyfriendly day trip from Denver.
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Every December, Georgetown’s Sixth Street transforms into a quintessential Christmas postcard. Stringed lights illuminated downtown and the smell of roasting chestnuts fills the air; you may think you’ve stepping onto the set of a holiday movie. Take a sleigh ride around town, listen to carolers, and stroll through vendors to pick out gifts for the whole family. After you’ve filled up on eggnog, head to the Georgetown Loop Railroad. Every year it features holiday excursions that traverse Santa’s Lighted Forest and might even include a visit from the jolly man himself! Every kid goes home from the train ride with a special treat and smiles for days.
Creede
You might not think of Creede as a winter destination, but there are few prettier scenes than this little town nearly surrounded by mountain cliffs blanketed in snow. Plan your visit to take in the annual Chocolate Festival, where local business owners showcase delectable chocolate specialties. January brings the annual TommyKnocker Pond Hockey Tournament. Whether you’re on the ice yourself or just spectating, there’s plenty of live entertainment and good food. If you’re “officially over winter” by February, head to Creede for its aptly-named Cabin Fever Daze. There’s live music, night skating, curling, bonfires, improv theater, and all-around good fun.
Pagosa Springs
The question is, what isn’t there to do in Pagosa Springs in winter? If you like horses, head over to Astraddle A Saddle or Buckaroo’s for horse-drawn sleigh rides. If you like dogs or going fast, try a dog-sled excursion through San Juan Dog Sleds or Mountain Paw Dog Sledding. Maybe you prefer to breathe in the crisp, winter air on top of some wheels? Several outfitters can hook you up with fat bikes for some gnarly routes at Reservoir Hill Park or Cloman Park. Take a tube for a visit to Reservoir Hill Park and zip down the hill behind Healing Waters — it’s free. Then you can soak away any aches and pains in one of the 24 pools at Pagosa Springs Hot Springs Resort.
A skijoring team races through downtown Leadville on March 8, 2020. Daniel Brenner, Special to The Denver Post, file
Kate Weldon of Westminster greets Santa Claus as he joins passengers on the Georgetown Loop Railroad on Dec. 16, 2012. Andy Cross, Denver Post file
Emily Harrington of Boulder makes her way up a route during the 17th annual Ouray Ice Festival. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file
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Plan your trip
Hockey Photo by B4Studio; Ski photo by Bob Seago; Main St. Creede photo by Jeffery Beall via Flickr, CC BY 2.0
.com
A winter wonder, Creede offers a wide variety of outdoor recreation opportunities, celebrations, days-upon-days of sunshine, and select moments of solitude. Crowds are nonexistent this time of year and the forest is wrapped in a snowy quiet. Creede offers a taste of the old-fashioned Colorado experience.
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12 festivals to brighten any winter day By Sarah Kuta Special to The Denver Post Winters in Colorado are pretty great — there’s abundant sunshine, a dizzying number of outdoor sports and activities to choose from, and plenty of restaurants, bars, breweries, distilleries and wineries to visit on chilly evenings. The list goes on and on.
But if you find yourself needing a little extra “oomph” in your life this winter, make plans to head to one of these beloved Colorado festivals. From impressive snow and ice carvings to quirky competitions, they offer a little something for everyone. (And they promise to make the winter months fun even if you don’t ski or snowboard!) Note: As with everything these days, check ahead of your visit for updates. The pandemic may yet again interrupt our winter fun.
Ullr Festival
Breckenridge Dec. 8-17
gobreck.com/event/ullr-fest Since 1963, Breckenridge has hosted an epic, 10-day festival honoring Ullr, the Norwegian god of snow. Ullr, who was rumored to be an accomplished skier, was so fast that he created the stars in the night sky as he flew by on his skis. The festival features a big parade down Main Street, a bonfire, an ice skating party, games, gatherings and other fun.
Wintersköl Aspen Jan. 13-16
aspenchamber.org/events/winterskol Aspen held its first Wintersköl celebration in 1951 — more than 70 years ago! — and this beloved “toast to winter” festival has been going strong ever since. Spread across four days, the festival includes the naming of Wintersköl royalty, a soup-making competition, live music, snow sculptures, a scavenger hunt and other family-friendly fun.
A young skier leaps off a jump on a float on Main Street during the 56th annual Ullr Fest parade in Breckenridge on Jan. 10, 2019. Andy Cross, Denver Post file
International Snow Sculpture Championships Breckenridge Carving, Jan. 24-28 Viewing, Jan. 28-30
gobreck.com/event/international-snow-sculpture-championships This beloved annual event features 16 of the world’s best snowcarving teams, who descend upon Summit County to transform 20ton blocks of snow into largerthan-life masterpieces. Even more impressive? The snow artists can only use tools powered by their own muscles, as power tools are strictly forbidden. After five days of carving, they officially unveil their works of art and turn downtown Breck into a very chilly art gallery that’s free and open to all.
Winter X-Games Aspen Jan. 21-23
aspensnowmass.com/visit/ events/x-games-aspen Nearly 100 of the world’s radd-
est athletes will descend upon Aspen-Snowmass again this winter to compete in the X Games, a collection of extreme snow sports events. It’s free to attend and Buttermilk remains open to the public if you’re inspired to ski or snowboard. Everyone age 12 and older will be required to show proof of COVID-19 vaccination to get into spectator viewing and festival areas. There are no ticketed concerts this year, but there will be DJs at XFest and the base area.
Rio Frio Ice Fest Alamosa Jan. 28-30
riofrioice.com The focus of Alamosa’s annual winter festival is unique: a 5K foot race completed entirely on the frozen Rio Grande River. There’s also a fat bike race, a polar plunge, a bonfire, ice sculpting and lots of other chilly festivities. FESTIVALS » 9
Team Breckenridge’s Let it Snow sculpture during the 29th International Snow Sculpture Championships on Jan. 25, 2019. Daniel Brenner, Special to The Denver Post, file
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Birders and nature lovers converge on the Eastern Plains near Lamar each winter to welcome flocks of snow geese as they fly south to warmer weather. Jill Smith, provided by High Plains Snow Goose Festival
FESTIVALS «FROM 8 Ouray Ice Festival Ouray Jan. 20-23
ourayicepark.com/ouray-ice-festival Watch as some of the world’s most impressive climbers scale frozen waterfalls and artificial structures in Ouray during this three-day competition and festival. There are several competitions, including mixed climbing and speed climbing, plus vendors, food and drinks and gatherings.
Winterfest Pagosa Springs Jan. 21-23
pagosachamber.com/winterfest This Pagosa Springs celebration of all things winter includes hot air balloon ascensions, parade, sled races, fat bike race, skijoring, BB gun biathlon, cross-country ski clinic and a popular “Penguin Plunge” that involves jumping into the chilly San Juan River.
Snowdown Durango Jan. 26-30
snowdown.org Snowdown has been a Durango staple for more than 40 years. After taking a year off because of the pandemic, the event’s organiz-
ers plan to put a spell on locals and visitors alike. Expect a light parade, fun contests and competitions, costumes and live performances from the Snowdown Follies, a beloved group that puts on comedy/variety shows each year. This year’s theme is “Magical and Mystical.”
Steamboat Springs Winter Carnival Steamboat Springs Feb. 9-13
sswsc.org/events/winter-carnival Organized by the Steamboat Springs Winter Sports Club, this mountain town’s annual carnival has been a bright spot during winter for more than 100 years. Expect high-flying ski jumpers, races, skijoring (skiers pulled behind a galloping horse) and a seriously impressive “Lighted Man” who swoops down the slopes wearing a pyrotechnic suit that shoots off fireworks.
High Plains Snow Goose Festival Lamar Feb. 3-6
highplainssnowgoose.com Each year, thousands of brightwhite snow geese descend upon southeastern Colorado as they migrate south for winter. There are so many, in fact, that the region’s lakes and fields turn white — not from snow, but from the geese. This winter festival celebrates and honors the annual mi-
Ice climbers head up a huge vertical, human-made ice cliff known as the Pic o’ the Vic section at the Ouray Ice Park on Jan. 11, 2019. Andy Cross, Denver Post file
gration with speakers, tours, demonstrations and other events.
Cripple Creek Ice Festival Cripple Creek Feb. 5-13
visitcripplecreek.com Using power tools, hand tools or some combination of both, teams whittle away at 180-pound blocks of ice to create works of art. This year, competitors will be able to choose their own theme and festivalgoers will be able to vote on the display they love the most. There’s usually an ice slide and an ice maze. There are also vendors, music and a beer garden at this winter festival.
Frozen Dead Guy Days Nederland March 18-20
frozendeadguydays.org While the rest of the world was grappling with the pandemic, Bredo Morstoel — aka Grandpa — was blissfully unaware, resting peacefully on a bed of dry ice in a shed. Nederland’s iconic Frozen Dead Guy Days winter festival is back and paying homage to Morstoel once again after a two-year hiatus. Expect dozens of live bands, heated tents with food and drink vendors, coffin racing, frozen T-shirt contests and other outrageous events.
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Where to fly down a hill on a snow tube By Dan England Special to The Denver Post Rod Rodgers used the Fraser Tubing Hill for years before he started to work there clipping the ropes and sending kids back up the slope. The cowboy who owned the place, who most knew simply as John, charged $3 a ride. He’d opened the hill in 1971 mainly to attract customers for horseback rides, ice skating and crosscountry skiing.
“Then more and more people like us came to use the hill,” Rodgers said in a phone interview. “So he took the other things out and just did the tubing.” Fraser may be the oldest commercial tubing hill in Colorado. It’s hard to know for sure, but even when Rodgers began working there, in 1982, “there were tubing hills nowhere,” he said. But Fraser was probably the one that made tubing a feasible attraction. In 1991, Rodgers bought the place with his brother, Monte. “Fraser’s got quite the reputation,” Rodgers said. “I just think we are good at what we do.” Many ski resorts offer a tubing hill now. Other places that offer winter attractions have them as well, such as Saddleback Ranch in Steamboat and its “Yee-Haw” hill and Snow Mountain Ranch’s tubing hill in Winter Park. (Winter Park resort also offers one, making the area the Orlando of snow tubing.) “I think you’d be surprised how many folks have them,” said Chris Linsmayer, public affairs director with Colorado Ski Country USA, which lists 10 resorts with snow tubing on its website. “That’s a space the ski industry has really stepped into.” What Fraser offers is friendly but no frills service and tubes for rent in a building that, save for the orange paint, resembles your grandfather’s mountain shack deep. The prices have gone up to $25 for an hour, but those are comparable to other sites, especially the stiff competition next door provided by the Colorado Adventure Park. Colorado Adventure inspired a Hatfield-McCoy love affair be-
Snow tubers zoom down the hill at Frisco Adventure Park. Todd Powell, provided by Frisco Adventure Park
A group gets final tips before they head down the mountain at the Snowmass tubing hill. Jeremy Swanson, provided by Aspen Snowmass tween the two hills, and Rodgers admits that his competitor, with its updated buildings and amenities, hurt Fraser for a while. But last year was a good year, Rodgers said, as the pandemic inspired families to get outside for adventure. “Our hill is quite a bit bigger and steeper,” he noted. Indeed. These aren’t your neighborhood tubing hills, even if your childhood friends named one of them “Killer Hill” or something equally ridiculous. Fraser’s hills are fast and, yes, furious, which, along with the towing, inspires the amusement-park prices. “This is like a ride,” Rodgers said. “I compare it to Lakeside and Elitch’s.” Tubing hills have taken off in the last half-dozen years, Linsmayer said, as resorts look for ways to compete with each other by investing in experiences not related to skiing. It’s not enough to simply offer the most terrain, bowls or runs any longer. “When you’re with family or friends, some may not want to go skiing every single day,” Linsmayer said. “Not everyone in that group will necessarily want to go skiing at all.” Aspen opened a hill in 2014 at Snowmass, a resort viewed by the industry and customers as more family-friendly than its bougie
counterpart, Aspen Mountain. It accompanies a large ski school and a play center. “People come on vacation to ski and have the kids learn,” said Tucker Vest Burton. “But you know kids. It’s good to have options.” Much like Las Vegas resorts, ski places want to offer complete packages, Vest Burton said, to make it more of an experience. “As part of being a top destination, it’s an added thing,” Vest Burton said. “If you’re from New York, and you want to have the true winter destination experience, for some that’s just skiing, but for others it’s not.” Some resorts are so pleased with their tubing hills they see them as a main attraction. Monarch Mountain opened its tubing hill a couple of years ago and it has inspired some people to make their first visit to the ski area, said Scott Pressly, vice president of mountain operations. “We do have people to go tubing who wouldn’t be here otherwise,” Pressly said. “Our goal is maybe they will see the skiing and snowboarding, and maybe next time they will want to give that a try.” Last year, for instance, the park had record visitation in the tubing park, but the resort also had record numbers overall, another COVID-
19 influence. “We are all trying to grow and diversify our offerings,” Pressly said. “I think a large percentage of our guests are here to go tubing the first time. It’s not quite as scary to sit on a tube and slide as opposed to skiing.”
Tubing hills
This list doesn’t cover all the hills, but it’s a decent start. • Fraser Tubing Hill, $25 per hour, $30 for 90 minutes; frasertubinghill.com • Colorado Adventure Park, $25 per hour, $40 for double tube per hour; coloradoadventurepark.com • Snow Mountain Ranch, TBD, ymcarockies.org/Locations/SnowMountain-Ranch • Frisco Adventure Park, $32-$36 per hour, bit.ly/3vYZBTa • Copper Mountain, TBD, bit.ly/3BwnVNl • Echo Mountain, $29-$34 per hour, echomntn.com/tubing • Hesperus, TBD ($12 in 202021), ski-hesperus.com/tubing • Monarch Mountain, $24-$28 per hour (discounts for add-ons), $12-$14 ages 12 and under, skimonarch.com/tubing-park • Keystone Resort, $33-$48, bit.ly/3BxZBe7 • Purgatory, TBD, purgatory.ski/ activities/tubing • Snowmass, $44-$67 unlimited, aspensnowmass.com/visit/activities/winter/tubing • Vail, $50-$130, bit.ly/3GDm2Co • Winter Park, $34-$39 per hour, bit.ly/3jSXag8
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Looking for fresh lines? Take a hike By R. Scott Rappold Special to The Denver Post You see it all the time at Colorado ski areas: Skiers get off the top chair, toss their skis and boards over their shoulders and hike off into the distance, even though there are perfectly good runs right off the lift.
For years, as a beginner skier new to Colorado, I wondered, “Why are they doing that?” I’ve since learned better, and the answer can be summed up in the six letters that separate the casual weekend skier from the dedicated and obsessed on the mountain: powder. Carving up freshly fallen snow previously untouched by human skis is a delight, a reason ski bums sleep in their cars in freezing parking lots or get up at 4 a.m. to be first in line at the lift. There is nothing quite like floating down a mountainside on a blanket of deep powder. The snow flies in your face with every turn, blinding you and choking your cries of joy. Of course, lots of skiers know this, and unless the storm is pounding it can be tough to find such bliss after a couple hours. That’s where the hiking comes in. Many ski areas today have “sidecountry” terrain, off-piste ridges, alpine bowls and soaring mountaintops, reachable only by hikes from the chairlift. Ski patrol blasts for avalanche risk and keeps an eye on the area, making it safer than the true backcountry, but the effort of hiking keeps most skiers away and preserves the powder. And it’s usually worth the effort. Because, for the hardcore and the hard-up for powder, the top of the chair is only the beginning of the journey. Here are some of the best sidecountry areas at Colorado resorts.
Serenity Bowl
Breckenridge Ski Resort The newest addition to this massive resort, Peak 6 offers classic Breck runs: long, wide-open and mellow. Then there’s Serenity Bowl. Reached by a short hike
Highland Bowl at Aspen Highlands is the most famous sidecountry terrain in Colorado. Expert skiers say the brutal hike to get there is worth the sweat. Lindsy Fortier, Aspen Snowmass from the top of the Kensho Superchair, its wide chutes will thrill you even as the steep terrain tries to spill you.
Horseshoe Bowl
Wolf Creek Ski Area This hike is a serious commitment, about 45 minutes out of your day, but worth it. From the top of Alberta Chair, hike up the Knife Ridge and then left on a long traverse with steep drop-offs that will make your head spin if you look down. Then hop onto the free Horseshoe Bowl snowcat if it’s running and this remote alpine paradise is all yours. It’s a short drop down the steep open bowl, then what feels like an endless tree run back to the lift.
Mirkwood Basin
Monarch Mountain Central Colorado’s Monarch Mountain expanded to include this terrain in recent years. It’s a tough hike from the top of Breezeway Chair — 20 minutes up a steep groomed road and you might have to step aside for the folks who paid a bundle for a daylong snowcat tour. Up here you’ll find short but sweet drops and all the powder you can choke on in the trees while heading back to the chair.
Highland Bowl
Aspen Highlands This is the Big One, the most famous sidecountry terrain in Colorado. The hike from the top of Loge Peak Lift is brutal and may take an hour or more, “782 sweaty, why-am-I-doing-this, vertical feet,” states the resort website. Pull over to let Aspen locals twice your age fly past you and enjoy the sublime views of the Maroon Bells. This is a rare place in resort skiing, too steep for snow groomers so locals come up and bootpack early-season snowfalls. Once you’ve caught your breath, drop in and cross Highland Bowl off your bucket list.
Palmyra Peak
Telluride Ski Resort The San Juan Mountains of southwest Colorado are rugged and wild, nicknamed the “American Alps,” and if you’re at Telluride skiing you can hike to the top of one, 13,320-foot Palmyra Peak. Reached from the top of Lift 12 it’s a long hike past Black Iron Bowl. Many skiers spy their perfect line here and drop in, but persevere and you’ll be rewarded with one of the most intense in-bounds skiing experiences there is.
Davey Pitcher, owner of Wolf Creek ski area, hikes near the Horseshoe Bowl terrain. Jason Blevins, Denver Post file
Union Peak
Copper Mountain This hike is shorter than the others on this list. It will only take you a few minutes from the top of the Mountain Chief chair, but time it right on a powder day and you’ll have the kind of grininducing run worth far more than the mild effort it took to get there.
Safety in the sidecountry
• Ski with a partner, as help can be far off. • Wear avalanche safety gear, including a beacon, shovel and probe. • Bring lots of water and dress in layers so you can remove your outer shell while hiking. • Pay careful attention to signs. Some ski areas have gates into the backcountry that will lead you not to the bottom of a lift but into a harsh winter wilderness. • Don’t enter closed areas. Ski patrol may be conducting avalanche control and you could wind up on the wrong end of one. • Step aside for faster hikers. Mountain town locals literally race each other for fresh drops in the upper bowls.
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9 great winter hikes around the Front Range By Sarah Lamagna Special to The Denver Post Just because the leaves have fallen and the days are shorter, doesn’t mean your trail adventures have to come to a screeching halt. If anything, trails and trailheads are less busy and national and state parks are shockingly empty in winter.
Regardless of your abilities or skill level, we’ve got the perfect trails for you to hit up this winter. You may want to take snowshoes and micro-spikes to ensure a fun and safe adventure. Check trail conditions and get directions to trailheads online before you head out. Wear layers, don’t forget to let someone know where you’re going — and take some hot cocoa in a thermos for a little après hike treat!
Emerald Lake Trail
Near: Estes Park Length: 3.2 miles Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Rocky Mountain National Park is usually overrun with locals and tourists alike, but it’s a bit sparser in the wintertime. The trail to Emerald Lake starts at the Bear Lake parking area. It would still be a good idea to get there as early as you can since this is still a popular trail, even in the winter. The hike begins on the Nymph Lake Trail where you’ll encounter the lake the trail is named after about a half-mile in. You’ll skirt around the eastern side of its bank and then take a left to go along its northern border. Another half-mile will bring you to the eastern point of Dream Lake. In the wintertime, the lake is frozen, and you’ll likely be able to walk right across it (just be careful!). Once you’re past Dream Lake, it’s less than a half-mile to Emerald Lake where you’ll witness the looming summits of Hallett Peak and Flattop Mountain.
Saint Mary’s Glacier Near: Idaho Springs Length: 1 mile Difficulty: Easy
If solitude is what you’re after,
Sarah Lamagna enjoys the quiet of winter as she hikes with her son near Dream Lake along the Emerald Lake Trail in Rocky Mountain National Park. Courtesy of Sarah Lamagna this trail is not the one for you. The hike to Saint Mary’s Glacier is short with minimal elevation gain so your destination may be crowded. Saint Mary’s Glacier isn’t actually a glacier; instead, it’s a semipermanent snowfield (i.e., you can usually sled down it in July). But when you go in winter, it’ll definitely have snow and the lake at the bottom of the “glacier” will be frozen over. Due to the heavy amount of traffic on the trail, it will also likely be slick, so come prepared with the right boots. Bring skates for the lake or a sled to make the most of this short, fun hike.
CMC-Brainard Snowshoe Trail Near: Ward Length: 6 miles Difficulty: Moderate
This is a dedicated snowshoe
trail in the Brainard Lake Recreation Area, meaning snowshoes are required and skis aren’t allowed. It’s a great hike when you want to get out on a blustery day. The trail starts at the Gateway trailhead across the street from the parking lot. Stay alert as you hike; you’ll cross several ski-only trails along the way and a skier may seemingly come out of nowhere. When you reach the lake, you’ll take a sharp right after the bridge to continue to the Colorado Mountain Club cabin. Remember to take cash so you can purchase some steaming hot cocoa to warm your insides for the hike back to your car.
ruins with an epic mountain backdrop? Look no further than the trail to Mayflower Gulch. In winter months this trail is full of skiers and snowshoers hoping for a bluebird day. The trail starts before you hit Fremont Pass on Colorado 91. It’s wide as it used to be a mining road. The trail opens up at the base of the surrounding mountains when you reach the ruins. It’s the perfect spot for a snack and a hot beverage before heading back to your car. The views are gorgeous. You can extend your adventure and hike the Mayflower Gulch Grand Traverse, an out-and-back that adds a few miles.
Mayflower Gulch
Clear Creek Trail
Near: Frisco Length: 2.6 miles Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Want to see some old mining
Near: Golden Length: 1-20 miles Difficulty: Easy to moderate, HIKES » 13
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Flagstaff Star
Near: Boulder Length: 1.5 miles Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Sure, you can drive up to Boulder’s Flagstaff Star. But it’s way more fun to hike to it. For extra fun, set off as the sun is setting so you can reach your destination when it’s all lit up! The trail starts at the Flagstaff trailhead and is a steady incline for about a half-mile. Around the 0.7-mile marker, you’ll stay straight onto the Halfway House trail. This is also the point where you’ll see the shine from the star. Bring some tea and treats to nosh on while sitting under the stars (both natural and humanmade).
Silver Dollar Lake Trail
Greenlee and Mesa Trail Loop
Near: Georgetown Length: 5.5 miles Difficulty: Moderate to strenu-
Near: Manitou Springs Length: 3.4 miles Difficulty: Easy
Friends gather to take in the view during an evening hike to the Flagstaff Star in Boulder. Courtesy of Sarah Lamagna
Gem Trail to Balanced Rock
Near: Estes Park Length: 7 miles Difficulty: Strenuous
Head to the Gem Trail for a slightly different (and less visited) view of Rocky Mountain National Park. Starting at the Gem Lake trailhead (a popular spot in summer), you’ll meander up toward the lake. The ascent begins to flatten once you get to the lake. If you
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meander through forests until you reach Balanced Rock. When you’ve had your fill of beauty, head back the way you came.
depending on how far you go You can go as far as you like on the Clear Creek Trail. In its entirety, the trail is 20 miles roundtrip. It starts in the heart of Golden — home to Coors Brewery and with a walkable downtown of restaurants and shops. You can hike a bit west and as far east as downtown Denver on connecting trails. It’s a great walking — and biking — trail no matter the time of year. Head west and you’re more likely to have the trail to yourself. Head east and you’ll find ponds and picnic tables along the trail as it winds along Clear Creek. Make time for a bite and pint in Golden’s historic downtown.
ous The road up to Guanella Pass closes in winter due to heavy snowpack, but it’s blocked off exactly where you need to park to start hiking to Silver Dollar Lake. In summer, there is a rugged dirt road that brings you closer to the trailhead, but it’s not open in the winter. You’ll start by crossing the street to head up the dirt road for 0.7 miles. The trail will veer left and continue to climb up for a beautiful view of Naylor Lake. After 1.5 miles, you’ll reach Silver Dollar Lake. You can continue another half-mile to Murray Reservoir from there, for more lovely views and a bit more of a workout.
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Sarah Lamagna and her son hike the Greenlee and Mesa trails loop at Red Rock Canyon Open Space near Manitou Springs. Courtesy of Sarah Lamagna
need to use the toilet, there’s an epic one at the lake. (Trust us on this.) Make sure to look back
where you came from and snap a photo of Longs Peak. Once you’re past the lake, you’ll
For a different view of the famed Garden of the Gods Park, hike the Greenlee and Mesa Trail Loop in Red Rock Canyon Open Space. You may be shocked to find few fellow hikers on a snowy day at this gem of a park on the south side of U.S. 24. The trails here are usually clear most of winter, so there’s no need for snowshoes. But you may want micro-spikes; the sun doesn’t reach some stretches of the trail and snow and ice can linger. Head up the hill on the Mesa Trail, past the off-leash dog park (leashed dogs are welcome on all trails) for about a mile. Stop now and then to take in the views of the sandstone spires of this park and those to the north in Garden of the Gods — they’re part of the same formation. Look west, too, for views of Pikes Peak. At the intersection with the Greenlee Trail, turn left (north) to take it back to your car. To explore further, take any of the network of trails at Red Rock Canyon to complete a longer loop. Pop into Manitou Springs for a bite and a beverage before heading home.
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The perfect winter pairing: slopes and soaks By R. Scott Rappold Special to The Denver Post It was a powder day in ski country and you left it all on the mountain. Your quads burn. Your calves have been reduced to rubber. All the muscles you’ve neglected since closing day last year are screaming in protest. What’s a skier or snowboarder to do?
Find a natural hot springs. There’s something magical about soothing weary muscles and reliving the day’s exploits on the mountain at a hot springs. The water is toasty and the crisp air is thick with steam. You spent the day enjoying nature’s gift from above — snow — so now enjoy nature’s gift from below, water heated by geothermal forces deep underground. Call it a perfect Colorado day. Here are five places to have one.
Wolf Creek Ski Area/ Pagosa Hot Springs
If you’ve ever skied this southern Colorado mountain when it got 2 feet of snow overnight — it happens a lot when storms come out of the desert Southwest and slam into the San Juan Mountains — you know what it means to feel the leg burn. And with some of the best hike-to terrain in Colorado to boot, you’ll be ready for a soak. The Springs Resort and Spa in downtown Pagosa Springs is like a water park for hot springs, and it’s just a 30-minute drive from Wolf Creek. There are 25 pools in a lovingly manicured resort along the San Juan River, ranging in temperature from pleasant cool dips to so hot it’s hard to stay long. The mineral-rich water will soothe body and mind, though the sulphur smell will linger in your swimsuit for a long time to come. You can stay at the resort or buy a day pass and stay elsewhere. Day passes: $49 for adults, $25 for children. wolfcreekski.com pagosahotsprings.com
Winter Park/ Hot Sulphur Springs
Winter Park offers some of the closest big-mountain skiing for
Denver-area residents, 3,000 acres of terrain ranging from easy groomers to the legendary steeps of Mary Jane. From top to bottom it’s nearly 3,000 vertical feet. Do that a few dozen times and you’ll be ready for a soak. Most ski commuters turn around and head back to the Front Range after a day at Winter Park, but head in the opposite direction of traffic and your day will only get better. Located in the town that bears its name, Hot Sulphur Springs offers 21 pools of varying size and temperature to soak weary bones. It’s only a 35-minute drive from the ski area. Lodging is available, so why not stay and save the I-70 traffic for another day? Day passes: $20 for adults, $14 for children. winterparkresort.com hotsulphursprings.com
Steamboat Resort/ Strawberry Park Hot Springs
This northwest Colorado gem is a bit far from the Front Range for most day trippers (though plenty do make the three-hour drive to get at the soft, light powder Steamboat is known for). The resort offers a staggering 3,668 feet of vertical from top to bottom and nearly 3,000 acres of terrain, enough to leave even the most seasoned riders with an aprés ski limp. Fight the urge to collapse in your condo or hit the bar and hop in your car for the thrilling drive to Strawberry Hot Springs. It’s a short trip but you’ll need snow tires or four-wheel-drive when the road is snowy, which it usually is between November and April. Located in a gorgeous and meticulously groomed wooded valley, with six pools of varying size and privacy for your soaking pleasure, you just might wonder if you died on the slopes and went to heaven. Shuttles are available if you don’t have the right vehicle, as is lodging at the hot springs. Day passes: $20 all ages (cash only). steamboat.com strawberryhotsprings.com SPRINGS » 15
The mineral-rich water at the Springs Resort and Spa in downtown Pagosa Springs is a balm after a long day skiing or riding. Kevin Eassa, provided by the Springs Resort and Spa
After a day skiing at Steamboat, stop for a soak at Strawberry Park Hot Springs, a short drive away. Dan Leeth, Special to The Denver Post, file
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SPRINGS «FROM 14 Snowmass Mountain/ Glenwood Hot Springs Resort
They go big in the Roaring Fork Valley. Let’s face it, American skiing was pretty much invented around here. So go big too at Snowmass Mountain, where you can ski 4,406 vertical feet in a single run or spread out and explore 3,342 acres. It’s one of the largest, most family-friendly resorts, a perfect destination for skiers with kids. If the kids enjoyed the skiing, just wait until they see the pool. Glenwood Hot Springs Resort is a 40-minute drive from the ski area, but go and you’ll understand why many families stay in Glenwood Springs instead of Aspen or Snowmass. It’s the largest hot springs pool in the world, 405 feet long and 100 feet wide, more than enough room for the kids to splash while the adults relax. You can stay at the resort or one of the hotels in Glenwood Springs, or, of course, drive back to Snowmass. Day passes: $25-$36 for adults and teens, $18-$22 for children. aspensnowmass.com hotspringspool.com
Monarch Mountain/ Cottonwood Hot Springs
This hidden central Colorado area is perched high on the Continental Divide west of Salida. It’s smaller than a mega-resort, about 1,200 feet of vertical on 800 acres, but that just means you’ll get more runs in. Plus they don’t make snow so what you’re skiing is natural Colorado powder, and Monarch gets plenty of it. It’s close enough to the Denver area (about 2.5 hours) for a long day trip. With no condos or boutiques, this is skiing like it used to be. Instead of racing back home, make time for a dip. Cottonwood Hot Springs is located in a snowy canyon west of Buena Vista on Cottonwood Pass (don’t worry the road is plowed to here). There are a half-dozen pools with a natural feel, bubbling with water rich in 15 elements and minerals, with temperatures ranging from 94 to 106 degrees. It’s 45 minutes from Monarch. Day passes: $20-$24 for adults and $18-$20 for children. skimonarch.com cottonwood-hot-springs.com
The 25 pools at Springs Resort and Spa are just a 30-minute drive from Wolf Creek Ski Area. Kevin Eassa, provided by the Springs Resort and Spa
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