THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
150TH ANNIVERSARY MAY 2018
JCKONLINE.COM
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
JCKONLINE.COM
THE LOOK OF LOVE
SWOON-WORTHY JEWELS FOR THE WEDDING DAY (AND BEYOND)
REVAMP IT UP HOW TO GIVE YOUR BRAND AN EXTREME MAKEOVER
SANDS STORM
JCK LAS VEGAS PREPS FOR ITS BIG MOVE UP THE STRIP
MAY 30 – JUNE 3
NEW LOCATION LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER WE’LL GET YOU THERE FREE! The 2019 AGTA GemFair™ Las Vegas is moving to the Las Vegas Convention Center. And we’ll give you a FREE UBER CODE to get to and from the JCK and Couture Shows. Continue your GemFair experience with the most trusted colored gemstone and cultured pearl exhibitors and expand your possibility with The Collective: One Badge. One Hall. Three Shows. Register early and come join us. 800-972-1162
www. agta.org/register-lasvegas
info@agta.org
www.agta.org
@agta_gems
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
150TH ANNIVERSARY JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019
JCKONLINE.COM
SMART STONES OUR ROCK-STAR ODE TO COLORED GEMS IN ALL THEIR SPLENDOR
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JIS MARCH
MARCH 15-17, 2019
MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER MIAMI BEACH, FL
The Niche
NEW Month for 2019! A unique and intimate event for the jewelry industry featuring on-trend merchandise for the Spring and Summer selling seasons.
REGISTER TO ATTEND OR APPLY TO EXHIBIT AT:
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JIS JANUARY JANUARY 19-21, 2019
MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER MIAMI BEACH, FL
The JIS January Show (Saturday, January 19 – Monday, January 21, 2019) is the
2nd largest JIS show of the year and one of the largest jewelry trade shows in the Western Hemisphere between the holiday season and Valentine’s Day. The
January Show is timed specifically for buyers to restock inventory after the holiday. Everything from key items to the hottest fashion trends that are flying off the
shelves and out of the showcases can all be found at the JIS January Show.
REGISTER TO ATTEND OR APPLY TO EXHIBIT:
JISSHOW.COM/JANUARY
JCK EVENTS | Special Advertising Section
JCK Show & Tell
New Experience J C K T U C S O N A N D T H E W O M E N ’ S J E W E L R Y ASSOCIATION (WJA) HAVE JOINED FORCES FOR THE NEW W J A PAV I L I O N AT J C K T U C S O N 2 0 1 9 . T H I S N E W D E S T I N AT I O N L E V E R A G E S T H E P O W E R O F W J A’ S C O M M U N I T Y O F TA L E N T E D D E S I G N E R S T O O F F E R A N E X C L U S I V E O P P O R T U N I T Y F O R U P -A N D - C O M I N G D E S I G N E R S T O S H O W C A S E P R O D U C T S A N D C O N N E C T W I T H L E A D I N G R E TA I L E R S . B E L O W I S A S N E A K P E E K AT S O M E O F T H E W J A PAV I L I O N D E S I G N E R S YO U W I L L F I N D AT J C K T U C S O N 2 0 1 9 .
L E A R N M O R E AT J C K T U C S O N 2 0 1 9 . C O M / WJA PAV I L I O N
D E B R A N AVA R R O
L. KLEIN
A S M A L L E X T R AVA G A N C E
CHRISTINA MALLE
Interested in attending JCK Tucson? Visit jcktucson2019.com/jckmagazine
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What’s New at NEW FOR 2019, JCK TALKS SOCIAL MEDIA BOOT CAMP WILL FEATURE TOPICS AND WORKSHOPS ON HOW TO TRULY BENEFIT FROM SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING AND ADVERTISING, HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS WITH DIGITAL MARKETING STRATEGIES, AND HOW TO FINALLY SEE A RETURN ON YOUR INVESTMENT OF TIME AND MONEY. WITH LIMITED SEATING AVAILABLE, SIGN UP TO BE THE FIRST TO KNOW WHEN REGISTRATION IS AVAILABLE AT JCKLASVEGAS2019.COM/SOCIALMEDIABOOTCAMP.
JCK’s Industry Fund grants have allowed JSA to undertake new projects and to stay THE JCK INDUSTRY FUND AIMS TO HELP AID, ASSIST AND IMPROVE T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y. O N E O F L A S T Y E A R ’ S R E C I P I E N T S I S T H E JEWELERS’ SECURITY ALLIANCE (JSA).
on the cutting edge of crime prevention f o r t h e i n d u s t r y. T h e c y b e r c r i m e g r a n t , i n p a r t i c u l a r, i s a f o r w a r d l o o k i n g p r o j e c t o n a very dangerous issue.
J S A I S A N O N - P R O F I T A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H 2 0 , 0 0 0 M E M B E R S T H AT P R O V I D E S C R I M E I N F O R M AT I O N A N D A S S I S TA N C E T O T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y A N D L A W E N F O R C E M E N T.
- Jewelers’ Security Alliance
EACH 2018 RECIPIENT WILL BE PROFILED IN THE JCK INSIDER NEWSLETTER. VISIT JCKINSIDER.COM TO SUBSCRIBE AND LEARN HOW THE JCK INDUSTRY FUND IS MAKING A DIFFERENCE. L E A R N M O R E A B O U T T H E J C K I N D U S T R Y F U N D AT J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 1 9 . C O M / I N D U S T R Y F U N D .
Save the Date JCK LAS VEGAS AND SWISS WATCH FRIDAY, MAY 31—MONDAY, JUNE 3 Sands Expo and The Venetian
LUXURY BY JCK
GLOBAL GEMSTONE PAVILION
JIS EXCHANGE
WEDNESDAY, MAY 29—MONDAY, JUNE 3*
THURSDAY, MAY 30—MONDAY, JUNE 3
THURSDAY, MAY 30—MONDAY, JUNE 3
*By invitation only May 29 & 30 The Venetian
Sands Expo, Level 1
The Venetian, Level 3
Share your journey – tag us @JCKEvents and use #JCKTucson so we can explore your unique finds!
CONTENTS
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JCKONLINE.COM
COVER
WEDDING BELLE
Go beyond the engagement ring with bracelet stacks, layered chains, mix-and-match earrings, and right-hand bling—jewels she’ll wear long after the big day. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKAEL SCHULZ
FEATURES 70
PERFECT PROPOSALS Jewelers who’ve helped clients ask their beloveds to marry share takeaways on popping the question. BY AMY ELLIOTT
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WE WILL ROCK YOU Make a big noise with these cutting-edge gemstone styles. You might say they’re fit for a queen. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS
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To celebrate JCK ’s 150th anniversary, we asked 150 industry insiders to talk about how the jewelry business has changed over the decades, and the role we have played in that evolution. BY EMILI VESILIND
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REFRESH YOURSELF Is your logo tired? Does your website look dated? Let these experts help you reinvent your brand. BY MARTHA C. WHITE
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RETURN TO CENTER
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It’s T minus four months and counting until the JCK and Luxury shows return to their original home at the Sands. Here’s how organizers are ensuring a smooth transition. BY ROB BATES
(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) MIKAEL SCHULZ; MIRAGEC/MOMENT/GETTY; JOEL STANS; COURTESY OF SANDS EXPO
150 YEARS, 150 VOICES: PART 1
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
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Miracle of nature. Power for good. From the Northwest Territories of Canada to the lowlands of Botswana, diamonds create jobs and enable investments in infrastructure, healthcare, education, wildlife conservation and environmental protection. When consumers purchase a diamond, they’re buying more than its beauty. They’re driving its indomitable power for good.
Learn more at diamondproducers.com/sustainability and diamondsdogood.com
CONTENTS
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48
DEPARTMENTS 14
JEWEL BOX
5 things rocking the industry
43
16 FROM THE EDITOR 18 STAFF PICKS 20 FROM THE PUBLISHER 26 JCK INSIDER 28 JCKONLINE 30 SOCIAL DIARY 33 NEWS GEMS
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Lightbox Jewelry makes its industry debut. GEM PRICING REPORT
38 40 THE CALENDAR
JCKONLINE.COM
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Industry shows, Jan. 11–March 20, 2019
43 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER
Balefire Goods in Olde Town Arvada, Colo. 46 RETAIL THERAPY What goal do you have for your store in 2019? 48 STORE WE ADORE Crown Nine in Oakland, Calif.
Brooke Gregson
89 90 91 93
JCK ASKS... Alison Chemla
THE VAULT
DIAMONDS GOLD
SHOW BIZ JCK Tucson turns 6! Plus: color commentary from JIS October.
97 TOOL TIME
Tips for assembling an Instatakeover. Plus: Zelle and more.
104 THE WAY WE WERE
Cover stories from 150 years of JCK
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TOP: KEN GUTMAKER; FAR LEFT: AARON LUCY
51 THE LOOK 52 RED CARPET 54 DESIGNER SHOWCASE
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
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606 S. OLIVE ST. STE 2018, LOS ANGELES CA 90014 213.622.9866 | 800.742.8864 RAHAMINOV.COM
Cover Look
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JCKONLINE.COM
Signature East-West necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.44 ct. moissanite; $559; Charles & Colvard; 877-2025467; charlesand colvard.com
Otto hinged bangle in 18k yellow gold with 1.02 cts. t.w. diamonds; $7,950; Sorellina; 646745-6831; sorellina newyork.com Baguette Frenzy earrings with 1.5 cts. t.w. Nude Diamonds in 14k Honey Gold; $6,748; Le Vian; 516-466-7200; levian.com
THE LOOK OF LOVE
Swoon-worthy jewels for the wedding day (and beyond)
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS Prop stylist: EMILY MULLIN/ HELLO ARTISTS For story, see page 72.
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKAEL SCHULZ Hair: FERNANDO TORRENT USING R+CO/ L’ATELIER NYC Makeup: MISHA SHAHZADA FOR CHANTECAILLE/ FORWARD ARTISTS Stylist: NINA STERGHIOU Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON FOR EMILIE HEATHE/ ART DEPARTMENT Model: ALANA ZIMMER/ WOMEN MANAGEMENT Sweater: TSE
Tribute Collection 18k yellow gold beaded ring with 0.24 ct. diamond; $949; Forevermark; 203-388-3544; forevermark.com
Crownwork Regency tiara in 18k yellow gold with 62 cts. t.w. white topaz and 1 ct. t.w. diamonds; $24,100; Ray Griffiths Fine Jewelry; 212-8100577; raygriffiths.com
Touch of Blush ring in platinum and 18k rose gold with 7.11 ct. fancy brownish orangey-pink diamond, 0.47 ct. t.w. Argyle pink brilliants, and 3.06 cts. t.w. white diamonds; $1,700,000; Scott West Jewelry for L.J. West Diamonds; 212-997-0940; ljwestdiamonds
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
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the industry authority
5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY
Jewel box 2
MAJORS
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EVENTS
The inaugural New York City Jewelry Week, a November citywide series of educational and art-centric events organized by veteran jewelry curators/event producers JB Jones and Bella Neyman, blanketed Manhattan and Brooklyn with seven days of nonstop happenings (120 in all): an exclusive tour of The Met’s lauded exhibition, “Jewelry: The Body Transformed”; a live talk on made–in–New York jewelry with Town & Country’s Stellene Volandes and artists David Yurman and James de Givenchy; small-and-inspired displays from exciting emerging brands including jeweler/social satirist Johnny Nelson and edgy metalsmith Angely Martinez, who debuted her first collection as part of a showcase spotlighting the Bijules Incubator mentorship; and many more. The jewelry industry is most certainly global, but NYCJW showed that its beating heart stateside is still in the Big Apple.
SAKS: SERGIO TORRES BAUS/ALAMY; WINSTON PINK LEGACY: CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD. 2018
One NYCJW event treated invitees to a tour of the Verdura and Belperron salons (Couronne cuffs with Tahitian and South Sea pearls in 22k gold; belperron.com).
From now on, he’s going somewhere else. In November, Jared the Galleria of Jewelry dropped its sometimes parodied, sometimes derided, but almost universally recognized slogan “He went to Jared.” In its place, ad agency McKinney developed a millennial- oriented campaign called “Dare to Be Devoted,” which is, for owner Signet Jewelers, rather daring, featuring both same-sex and multiracial couples, and, in one ad, a woman popping the question. So is sister company Kay going to ax its similarly well-known (if not always well-liked) slogan “Every kiss begins with Kay”? Spokesman David Bouffard said the catchphrase remains “foundational” for the brand.
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15 The newly christened Winston Pink Legacy: an 18.96 ct. fancy vivid pink cut-cornered rectangular-cut diamond
AUCTIONS
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Christie’s had high hopes for the Pink Legacy, and the 18.96 ct. fancy vivid diamond delivered. On Nov. 13, the much-hyped pink gem sold for $50.3 million to Harry Winston—setting a new per-carat record price for a pink diamond ($2.6 million) and topping its $30 million– $50 million presale estimate. Formerly owned by the Oppenheimer family, the now-renamed Winston Pink Legacy joins other notable stones that Harry Winston has purchased—including a 101 ct. D flawless—following its acquisition five years ago by Swatch Group.
The Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra, sported by a s upermodel at the retailer’s annual runway show, has always been covered in natural gems. But this year, the celebrated undergarment was blinged out with 2,100 lab-grown diamonds from Swarovski. Jason Payne, the CEO of Ada Diamonds, says Victoria’s Secret specifically sought out man-made stones. And given that lab diamonds are generally cheaper than their mined counterparts, this year’s Fantasy creation has been valued at only $1 million— much less than past multimillion-dollar bras.
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DIAMONDS
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LAWSUITS Seems a plum brick-and-mortar spot is still worth launching a lawsuit. In October, Cartier filed suit in New York state court against Saks Fifth Avenue. The jeweler complained that its boutique had been asked to leave its desired location at Saks’ Manhattan flagship; when Cartier refused to budge, Saks canceled its five-year lease. The department store responded that an extensive renovation mandated the move, and that Cartier had been offered suitable alternate locations but had “inexplicably” turned them down. JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
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from the editor
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Say “I do” to these earrings with purplegray, champagne, green, and bluegreen sapphires and diamonds. ($6,800; Avalina K.; avalinak.com)
Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
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OUR LONG-AWAITED 150th- anniversary celebration kicks off this month. And we couldn’t be more jazzed about it. Although you’ll have to wait until late September to read our special anniversary edition (which will take the place of our regular September/October issue), you’ll find nods to the major milestone in every print issue we publish this year, beginning with the one you’re holding in your hands. It’s no small feat to honor a birthday as momentous as 150 years. Especially when the birthday celebrates so much more than a publication. We’ve long held that the history of JCK is the history of the jewelry business in America. Since our founding in 1869 as the American Horological Journal, we’ve been the publication of record for the jewelry and watch business, and we don’t think it’s overstating it to compare our relationship with the trade to a long and complicated, yet extremely fruitful, marriage. But rather than tooting our own horn about it, we asked 150 of the industry’s movers and shakers to toot it for us. Turn to page 78 to read the opener to our “150 Years, 150 Voices” series; this first installment is a collection of 25 quotes gathered by senior editor Emili Vesilind about how the trade has changed and what our publication has meant to people over the years. Look for subsequent installments in the rest of this year’s print issues (and online!). While it’s a big year for the magazine, it’s an
equally big year for JCK Las Vegas, which heads back to the Sands Expo and Convention Center at the end of May, after an eight-year hiatus at Mandalay Bay. In “Return to Center” (page 84), news director Rob Bates looks at the logistical hurdles the show team had to overcome to ensure a smooth move. His piece marks the first in a four-part Countdown to the Sands series that will culminate with our at-show June issue. Despite all the hoopla, we haven’t forgotten this issue’s theme, “New Year, New You,” or its colored stone focus, just in time for Tucson gem week. For a concise, easy-to-implement guide to reinventing your brand in 2019, read “Refresh Yourself” (page 82) by contributor Martha C. White. And for the gem trends that should top your Arizona shopping list, check out photographer Joel Stans’ drool-worthy still life, “We Will Rock You,” on page 72. Finally, this densely packed issue also happens to be our annual ode to weddings—as the lovely tiara-bedecked model on our cover and featured in “Wedding Belle” on page 62 can testify. On that note, we asked contributor Amy Elliott to track down some of the industry’s best question-popping stories in “Perfect Proposals” (page 70), a not-so-subtle reminder that if you make yourself a key part of a couple’s betrothal story, you’re poised to reap myriad rewards down the line. Trust us—after 150 years of being wedded to this industry, we know a thing or two about the benefits of matrimony!
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES
nd so it begins.
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
the industry authority
OUR FAVORITE THINGS
STAFF PICKS 1
18k gold earrings with 4.6 cts. t.w. Australian Queensland opal; $3,500; JS Noor; 562-676-4367; jsnoor.com
OCEAN CITY
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Pineapple drop earrings in 14k yellow gold with 5 ct. tanzanite and 2.5 ct. aquamarine; $2,780; Marlo Laz; sales@marlolaz. com; marlolaz.com
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Vier earrings in 18k white gold with pear-shape sapphires and 1.03 cts. t.w. diamonds; $24,000; Valani Atelier; 212-702-9703; valani.com
What JCK magazine’s VICTORIA GOMELSKY is loving this month
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14k white gold earrings with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds and 1.92 cts. t.w. sapphires; $1,020; Quality Gold; 800-354-9833; qgold.com
“I adore earrings studded with ocean-colored gems, from stormy blue sapphires to opals that resemble a sparkling tropical sea.” —Victoria Gomelsky, JCK editor-in-chief
PORTRAIT: NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS
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18k white gold earrings with 3.61 cts. t.w. blue sapphires and 1.05 cts. t.w. diamonds; $3,110; Cirari; 212-764-2823; cirari.com
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FROM THE PUBLISHER
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Designer Deirdre Featherstone (c.) at the Bergdorf Goodman x NYC Jewelry Week party
Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
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WELCOME TO THE first issue of our 150th-anniversary year! Introduced in 1869, JCK is one of the oldest continuously published magazines in America. (This milestone puts us in the company of such venerable publications as Harper’s Magazine and Scientific American!) This year’s magazine, website, newsletter, and social channels will celebrate the anniversary in a variety of ways, and our traditional September/October issue will be replaced with an anniversary celebration issue that promises to be a keeper for years to come. This mark in time is a great moment to reflect on our changes over the years—in the year I joined, 2004, we certainly were not discussing Instagram!—and on the consistency of our brand, “The Industry Authority.” I’ve truly enjoyed exploring and acting on the ways in which JCK can maintain and honor that tagline, while taking advantage of an ever-morphing media landscape. The year 2019 will also be exciting for the return of the JCK Las Vegas show to the Sands Expo and Convention Center. The facility itself has been vastly improved over
the years we’ve been gone, and the hotels and restaurants in that area have always been much better than those at the south end of The Strip. It will be great to return to where it all began, and we expect a terrific turnout in terms of attendees. Finally, I’m excited to share my observations from the first New York City Jewelry Week (NYCJW18). Founders Bella Neyman and JB Jones—both of whom hail from the worlds of art, gallery curating, journalism, and design—pulled together an amazing celebration featuring well over 100 exhibitions, exclusive tours, talks, panel discussions, events, and more. The week exposed the phenomenal depth of artisanal jewelry talent in NYC and showed that our jewelry world extends far beyond the typical trade circuit we attend. JCK was delighted to be the trade-publication sponsor of this year’s event, and we are already looking forward to NYCJW19! Next up for me are the 24 Karat Club of the City of New York banquet/Gem Awards gala weekend and the VicenzaOro show in January. See you there!
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; NYCJW: SIMON LEUNG
ount ’em: 150 years!
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Social Diary
GIA SYMPOSIUM
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WORLD TRADE
Maestro Roger Nierenberg led a welcome session centered on a learning experience called “The Music Paradigm.”
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Responsible Jewellery Council’s Edward Johnson and GIA’s John Hall
The Rapaport Group’s Martin Rapaport (c., seated) was among the participants in the symposium’s Harvard Business Track. David L. Ager, managing director of Harvard Business School’s executive development program
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GIA’s Susan Jacques and Tom Moses presided over the Richard T. Liddicoat Centennial Celebration gala.
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Kent Wong (Chow Tai Fook), Rahul Kadakia (Christie’s), Andy Johnson (Diamond Cellar), and Jason Goldberger (Blue Nile) at the closing session
COURTESY OF GIA
GIA’s Russell Shor walks a Symposium attendee through his poster on “The New Economics of Diamond Mining.”
GIA’s 2018 International Gemological Symposium in early October was a who’s who of industry bigwigs
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NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE
NEWS GEMS LIGHT THE LIGHTS De Beers’ lab-grown diamond line finally goes live
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BY ROB BATES
0.75 ct. t.w. Blue Moon pendant, $700, 0.5 ct. t.w. halo pendant in pink, $500, 0.5 ct. solitaire pendant in pink, $500; lightbox jewelry.com
FTER A SUMMER of hype and speculation, Lightbox, De Beers’ lab-grown diamond line, officially debuted in September—and so far, it hasn’t shaken the industry as much as some anticipated. Initial sales were healthy, says chief marketing officer Sally Morrison, though she admits that many of the first orders may have come from curious industry competitors. Skeptics, particularly rival labgrown diamond sellers, pointed out that the most talked about Lightbox offering—a pendant with a 1 ct. white center stone—has been sold out since last fall’s launch, causing them to doubt De Beers’ claim that it was selling lab-grown diamonds for $800
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NEWS GEMS
THE SCOOP
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A Grown With Love labgrown diamond engagement ring
What’s Clicking on JCKonline
The top stories for November. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline.com/ newsletters/subscribe.
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Apple’s Jony Ive and Marc Newson Create an All-Diamond Ring The all-diamond ring, made up of lab-grown material, is designed to be worn. Helzberg Offers Free Nintendo Switch With Jewelry Purchase The Black Friday week special applied to those who spent more than $1,199. Sale of Marie Antoinette’s Jewelry Blows Away Estimates Jewelry from the French queen garnered $53 million at Sotheby’s, more than seven times its expected haul. Signet Drops “He Went to Jared” The jewelry chain has done what it calls a “top-tobottom” rebranding, and that slogan is gone. Has Pandora Realized It Can’t Go It Alone? JCK news director Rob Bates examines Pandora’s change of policy toward its franchisees.
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a carat. (The other 1 ct. items are all total weight.) General manager Steve Coe says that the site is continually being refreshed, and the trade should expect more 1 ct. items in the future. As for the jewelry itself, one buyer found the pieces “good commercial merchandise like you see from the TV shopping companies. Everything about them screams ‘pretty good,’ while nothing about them says ‘fantastic.’ Something tells me this is deliberate. They don’t want fantastic.” The new brand will produce its blue, pink, and white diamonds at a 60,000-square-foot factory in Gresham, Ore.—which, because
of its energy needs, is located next to a power station. The complex’s diamond-growing machines can spit out the stones with relative consistency, says Adam O’Grady, head of special projects for Element Six, the synthetic-producing subsidiary of De Beers. “There is always some variability, but the variability is a single-digit percent,” he says. Unusual for the industry, the brand is being marketed on podcasts, including Oprah Winfrey’s—which shows that it is not as millennial-focused as some assumed. In the last week of November, the brand debuted its first pop-up store
at the Oculus at Westfield World Trade Center in New York City. The 20-foot by 20-foot cube didn’t sell product—only displayed it—but provided an opportunity to build brand awareness and find out more about how consumers perceive labgrown stones, says Morrison. While competitors have been uneasy about De Beers encroaching on their turf, some believe that it has helped acceptance of their product. Richline Group says De Beers’ announcement gave its man-made line, Grown With Love, a boost at JCK Las Vegas. It is now carried by Macy’s and J.C. Penney.
“Ninety-five percent of people want to [swim in] the current. Because they don’t trust themselves, they don’t have courage. When people go against the current, they become different. And if in business you are first, different, unique, you win.” —Jean-Claude Biver, nonexecutive chairman of the LVMH watch division, on a video shared by David L. Ager, managing director of Harvard Business School’s executive development program, at October’s GIA Symposium
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Number of physical stores that e-commerce brands are planning to open in the next five years, according to a study by JLL Retail
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NEWS GEMS
Q&A
3 Questions for...
BILL KOEFOED IN NOVEMBER 2016, Bain Capital acquired e-tailer Blue Nile for $500 million. On the second anniversary of that purchase, chief financial officer Bill Koefoed talked to JCK about what’s changed, the company’s brick-and-mortar plans, and, of course, lab-grown diamonds. —RB
35
I don’t expect we will open another webroom in 2019. Most of them were in malls. I think that a logical read of the state of U.S. retail would say that malls are not the future. What is Blue Nile’s view of lab-grown diamonds? We are a retailer. We sell what customers want to buy. We are evaluating it and looking to see where the market goes. We don’t do any lab-grown diamonds at this point. It wouldn’t be too complicated for us to pivot there.
Astor by Blue Nile diamonds
How have things changed since Bain Capital purchased Blue Nile? Bain bought the company to reignite [our] growth and take advantage of operational efficiencies that they identified through their due diligence process, including reexamining the sourcing and the vendors that we used. We have done really well with that. We have redone our site. We invested a lot to do that. The site was dated and somewhat stale. We have upgraded it and made it more modern. We have improved the diamond visualization, and we want to keep working on that. When we were a public company, everything was in the public eye. Now that we are private, we can test and learn. I think you will see us in the public markets again in a few years when we get the rocket ship going. For a while, Blue Nile was focused on opening webrooms—now called showrooms. But you haven’t opened one in a year. Do you expect to open more? JCKONLINE.COM
Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com
NEWS GEMS
INDUSTRY&PEOPLE
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Earrings with 24.19 cts. t.w. morganites and 1.49 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k rose gold; $22,989; Christopher Designs; 800-9550970; christopher designs.com
o rganization’s executive director. His last day is March 27.
13 other state attorneys general are suing Harris Jewelry, claiming its credit program misleads and overcharges active-duty service members. The 23-store military retailer calls the allegations “inaccurate and baseless.” EBay has filed a lawsuit against Amazon, claiming
Yvonne Montoya Art Jewelry Forum has named Yvonne Montoya its new executive director. She replaces Rebekah Frank, the first person to hold the job.
COMINGS AND GOINGS
Varda Shine, former CEO of De Beers’ sales arm, the Diamond Trading Company, has joined the board of miner Petra Diamonds as an independent nonexecutive director.
director and senior vice president for the United States. He previously worked for S otheby’s Geneva and Sotheby’s Hong Kong.
Neiman Marcus has named Melissa Lowenkron general
Christopher Designs has
Ed and Lisa Bridge Lisa Bridge, who was
appointed president and chief operating officer of Ben Bridge Jeweler one year ago, has now been appointed the retailer’s CEO. She takes over for her father, Ed Bridge, who is retiring after heading the company since 1990. She is the fifth generation of her family to head the company, and the first woman.
appointed industry veteran Ann Kim to be its West Coast vice president of sales. She previously worked for jewelry companies Scott Kay, David Yurman, John Hardy, Ritani, and Verragio. Signet Jewelers has named Zackery Hicks, executive vice
president and chief digital officer of Toyota Motors North America, an independent board member.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
JCK010119_033_NEWSGEMS_v3.indd 36
J.C. Penney has appointed Jill Soltau, former president
Veteran jewelry executive retail technology startup
Melissa Lowenkron
strategy and partnerships. He previously served as president and CEO of Chopard USA and chief commercial officer of John Hardy.
LEGAL
Zackery Hicks
Auction house Bonhams has named Brett O’Connor senior international jewelry
The Responsible Jewellery Council announced that Andrew Bone will step down after three years as the
JewelPops Inc., the company behind the popular Kameleon
jewelry brand, has filed for bankruptcy in Canada.
On Oct. 18, the U.S. subsidiary of Links of London Inc. filed for Chapter 7 bankruptcy. The brand is owned by the Folli Follie Group, which itself filed for bankruptcy protection in Greece a few weeks later.
REMEMBERED Carolyn Kelly, a well-known
and respected industry veteran whose career spanned Saks Fifth Avenue, David Yurman, and Bloomingdale’s, died Oct. 2 of cancer. She was 60.
ASSOCIATIONS
and CEO of fabric and craft retailer Jo-Ann Stores, its new CEO. She replaces Marvin Ellison, who left last May.
Hero as president of luxury
the voice of its radio ads, has left the company.
the new watches and jewelry director for Louis Vuitton. She replaces Hamdi Chatti.
Jill Soltau
merchandise manager of accessories, including designer jewelry, precious jewels, ladies’ shoes, and handbags. She previously worked for Neiman subsidiary Bergdorf Goodman.
Marc Hruschka has joined
Richard Kessler, who founded seven-store chain Kesslers Diamonds in 1980 and was
Tiffany & Co. veteran Catherine Lacaze has been appointed
Six months after exiting Chapter 11, costume jewelry chain Charming Charlie appointed chief financial officer Rob Adamek its chief operating officer. It also named Joy Garcia senior vice president and chief marketing officer.
that Amazon’s sales reps set up phony eBay accounts to lure high-volume sellers from its platform.
On Oct. 4, ICICI Bank sued Shrenuj & Co., alleging that the Indian company committed fraudulent transactions through its U.S. subsidiary. New York State Attorney General Barbara Underwood and
The two main groups serving the middle of the diamond pipeline, the World Federation of Diamond Bourses and the International Diamond Manufacturers Association, are in talks to join forces.
HONORED The American Jewelry Design Council will present its high-
est honor, the Benne Award, to educator and designer Alan Revere at the American Gem Trade Association GemFair in Tucson in February. JCKONLINE.COM
12/14/18 4:47 PM
The Essence of Timeless Design 18 Karat - Platinum - Fine Gems
Winner/Finalist of the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards for 10 consecutive years since 2009
Showroom San Francisco (415) 621-8880 jyescorp@gmail.com www.jyescorp.com
News Gems
EM
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REASONS TO BE UPBEAT IN 2019
WHILE BLUE SAPPHIRE continues to lead demand in the colored-stone market, emerald is poised for a banner year. The market has benefited from efforts to educate buyers about the tradition of clarity enhancement. Demand is strongest in the good through fine grades, while no-oil fine-quality emeralds are bringing incredible premiums in overseas markets. In the ruby market, dealers are reporting prices are stable, although many are cautious about the amount of Mozambican material on the market, which some believe is too high to support current price levels. In contrast, fine Burmese ruby remains scarce. For the most part, dealers are still upbeat regarding the outlook for 2019. The market is experiencing good demand beyond the “big three.” Varieties of garnet, tourmaline, zircon, beryl, and zoisite as well as a host of agates and other opaque materials have emerged from supporting roles in the jewelry trade, and are now featured within the lines of prominent designers and manufacturers.
VS1
VS2
SI1
SI2
GOOD
DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant G H
$6,800 $6,080
$6,320 $5,800
$5,700 $5,450
FINE
Alexandrite $4,720
1 to under 2 cts.
$2,750–$4,500
$8,000–$10,000
2 to under 3 cts.
$3,500–$6,000
$9,500–$11,500
$4,470
Rhodolite Garnet I
$5,700
$5,200
$4,950
$4,000
J
$4,900
$4,500
$4,080
$3,760
1 to under 3 cts.
$30–$70
$70–$110
3 to under 5 cts.
$60–$90
$90–$150
DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round G H
$3,570 $3,200
$3,200 $3,000
$2,700 $2,600
Rubellite Tourmaline $2,340
1 to under 3 cts.
$75–$125
$220–$250
3 to under 5 cts.
$110–$225
$275–$375
$2,270
Tsavorite Garnet I
$2,720
$2,630
$2,250
$2,150
J
$2,240
$2,125
$2,000
$2,050
DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant G H
$12,200 $10,300
$11,300 $10,000
$9,350 $8,300
1 to under 3 cts.
$575–$850
$1,050–$1,250
3 to under 5 cts.
$1,500–$2,200
$2,500–$3,000
Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp) $7,600
9 to under 12.5 cts.
$3,500–$4,500
$4,500–$8,000
10 to under 13.5 cts.
$4,000–$5,000
$5,000–$9,000
$7,150
Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I
$9,700
$7,900
$7,600
$6,725
J
$7,200
$7,300
$6,400
$6,000
2 to under 3 cts.
$1,800–$3,500
$5,000–$6,250
3 to under 5 cts.
$2,500–$3,700
$6,500–$9,000
DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut G
$8,960
$8,100
$7,575
Pink Sapphire $6,600
H
$8,350
$7,560
$6,800
$6,000
I
$6,475
$6,140
$6,000
$5,400
1 to under 3 cts.
$425–$715
$850–$1,100
3 to under 5 cts.
$525–$950
$1,350–$1,800
1 to under 3 cts.
$50–$75
$125–$150
3 to under 5 cts.
$60–$80
$135–$170
Blue Zircon
J
$5,350
$4,850
$4,770
$4,700
Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.
BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR Edition February 2019
20-24 FEB 2019
CHALLENGER HALL 1-3 IMPACT, BANGKOK
Discover the spirit of jewelry making at BKKGEMS.COM
The Jewelry Industry’s
wimer oasis
February 6 – 9, 2019
JW MARRIOTT TUCSON S TA R R PA S S R E S O R T & S PA
E X P E R I E N C E C U R A T E D N E T W O R K I N G E V E N T S A L O N G S I D E A P R O D U C T I V E J E W E L R Y B U Y I N G E V E N T , C A R E F U L LY D E S I G N E D T O I N S P I R E , E X C I T E A N D C O N N E C T B U Y E R S , D E S I G N E R S A N D S U P P L I E R S O F F I N I S H E D J E W E L R Y, TECHNOLOGY AND LOOSE GEMSTONES. OPEN TO ALL QUALIFIED JEWELRY PROFESSIONALS.
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
the industry authority
SHOWS & EVENTS
THE CALENDAR
U.S.
• JANUARY
26–29
GEM FAIRE
Miami Beach, Fla.
11–13
Del Mar, Calif. gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Dallas
intergem.com
WHOLE BEAD SHOW Honolulu
wholebead.com
17–20
MIAMI BEACH JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW
Miami Beach, Fla. miamibeach jewelryshow.com
18–20
GEM FAIRE
San Rafael, Calif. gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Houston
intergem.com
19–21
ORIGINAL MIAMI BEACH ANTIQUE SHOW
originalmiamibeach antiqueshow.com
26–30
CENTURION JEWELRY SHOW Scottsdale, Ariz.
centurionjewelry.com
31–FEB. 11 TUCSON GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Tucson
jogsshow.com
31–FEB. 17
KINO GEM & M INERAL SHOW Tucson
as-shows.com/ kino-gem-show
• FEBRUARY 1–3
GEM FAIRE
Roseville, Calif. gemfaire.com
1–5
WHOLE BEAD SHOW Tucson
wholebead.com
JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE (JIS)
1–13
jisshow.com
Tucson
Miami Beach, Fla.
24–27
NEW ORLEANS GIFT AND JEWELRY SHOW New Orleans
helenbrett.com
PUEBLO GEM & MINERAL SHOW pueblogemshow.com
1–17
2–5
INTERNATIONAL FASHION JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES SHOW Las Vegas
SEATTLE GIFT SHOW
GARNET
Seattle
seattlegiftshow.com
18k yellow gold Draper ring with 3.36 ct. Malayan garnet in carnelian; $6,295; Rush Jewelry Design; 212-219-3793; rushjewelrydesign.com
2–9
COLORS OF THE STONE/TO BEAD TRUE BLUE/ TUCSON BEAD & DESIGN SHOW Tucson
colorsofthestone.com
2–10
GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS
Tucson (Holidome) glwshows.com
2–13
5–7
14–17
MAGIC
Las Vegas
ubmfashion.com
5–10
AGTA GEMFAIR Tucson
agta.org
GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS
GJX GEM & JEWELRY EXCHANGE
glwshows.com
gjxusa.com
Tucson (Gem Mall)
Tucson
2–16
5–11
ARIZONA MINERAL & FOSSIL SHOW Tucson
mzexpos.com
3–4
51ST ACE IT NAJA WINTER EDUCATION CONFERENCE Tucson
najaappraisers.com
JEWELRY, GEMS & MINERALS EXPO
4–7
jgmexpo.com
Las Vegas
Tucson
January Birthstone
ifjag.com
WOMENSWEAR IN NEVADA wwinshow.com
TUCSON’S NEW MINERAL SHOW Tucson
tucsonnew mineralshow.com
6–9
JCK TUCSON Tucson
tucson. jckonline.com
TUCSON GEM & MINERAL SHOW Tucson
PALM BEACH JEWELRY, ART & ANTIQUE SHOW West Palm Beach, Fla.
COTERIE
New York City
ubmfashion.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW intergem.com
15–17
Santa Barbara, Calif.
GEM FAIRE
Seattle
GEM FAIRE
gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Chantilly, Va. intergem.com
16–18
AMERICAN H ANDCRAFTED Philadelphia
acrephiladelphia.com
21–24
AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW–BALTIMORE Baltimore
1–3
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
Del Mar, Calif.
intergem.com
gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Denver
intergem.com
8–10
GEM FAIRE
Pleasanton, Calif. gemfaire.com
GEMFAIRE
Reno, Nev.
gemfaire.com
Philadelphia
• MARCH
tgms.org
craftcouncil.org
13–19
25–27
15–17
JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE (JIS)
Miami Beach, Fla. jisshow.com
10–12
JA NEW YORK New York City
ja-newyork.com
15–17
WHOLE BEAD SHOW
Santa Fe, N.M. wholebead.com
AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW–ATLANTA
17–20
craftcouncil.org
Las Vegas
Atlanta
ASD MARKET WEEK asdonline.com
For the first two weeks of February, Tucson is where it’s at.
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
Southfield, Mich. intergem.com
palmbeachshow.com
JCK010119_040_Calendar_v2.indd 40
12/17/18 11:06 AM
INTERNATIONAL NAL • JANUARY 14–17
SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE Geneva sihh.org
18–21
BIJORHCA Paris bijorhca.com
February Birthstone
PREMIERE CLASSE Paris
AMETHYST
premiere-classe.com
18–22
Earrings in 18k gold with cabochon aquamarines, diamonds, and 11 cts. t.w. amethysts; $3,350; Onirikka; emma@megamegaprojects.com; onirikka.com
MAISON & OBJET Paris maison-objet.com
18–23
VICENZAORO Vicenza, Italy vicenzaoro.com
8–12
AMBIENTE Frankfurt
HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW
22–24
ambiente.messe frankfurt.com
Mexico City
10–13
Hong Kong
Mumbai, India
• MARCH
EXPO JOYA expojoya.com.mx
23–26
30TH INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY TOKYO Tokyo ijt.jp/en
• FEBRUARY 3–7
JEWELLERY & WATCH Birmingham, England jewelleryandwatch birmingham.com
TUCSON: DSZC/E+/GETTY
28–MAR. 4
4–7
FENINJER São Paulo feninjer.com.br
SIGNATURE IIJS iijs-signature.org
20–24
63RD BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR Bangkok
13–16
AMBER TRIP Vilnius, Lithuania ambertrip.com
event.hktdc.com/fair/ hkjewellery-en
1–4
PREMIERE CLASSE Paris premiere-classe.com
bkkgems.com
22–25
INHORGENTA Munich inhorgenta.com
26–MAR. 2 HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND, GEM & PEARL SHOW Hong Kong event.hktdc.com/ fair/hkdgp-en
GET READY FOR… BASELWORLD
MARCH 21–26
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MARCH 2-4, 2019
PRE-SHOW CONFERENCE, FRIDAY, MARCH 1 COBB GALLERIA CENTRE
REGISTER TODAY atlantajewelryshow.com 800.241.0399 #ATLJewelryshow
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE
SHOP TALK HIGH ARTISANRY
Jamie Hollier Balefire Goods balefiregoods.com
At Colorado’s Balefire Goods, Jamie Hollier nurtures jewelers/makers with a flair for slow fashion
L
BY EMILI VESILIND
AARON LUCY
OCATED JUST OUTSIDE of Denver, in the poetically named city of Olde Town Arvada, Balefire Goods is a jewelry store with a mission: to connect jewelry lovers with artisan jewelers who specialize in what owner Jamie Hollier calls “slow fashion,” aka handmade, heirloom-quality pieces. Hollier, a 39-year-old jewelry designer and serial entrepreneur who also co-owns two technology companies she cofounded in the past decade, opened the boutique in late 2017 after consciously pivoting away from the digital startup life and toward designing and making her own jewelry—skills she cultivated in her teens and 20s.
JCKONLINE.COM
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Shop Talk
INNOVATIVE RETAILER
44
“One of the best compliments I’ve gotten is that the store feels like a permanent artisan fair. I love that.” —Jamie Hollier
At Balefire Goods, the jewelry collections are rarely trendy, but they are undeniably cool. You’ll find sleek wooden earrings from Chicago’s Crosslyne, rugged silver wedding bands etched with pine trees by New Zealand–based jewelry artist Ash Hilton, and gold-fill ear wires tipped with clusters of silver balls by Portland, Ore., brand YedOmi. Many of the bespoke brands at Balefire are fabricated with ethically sourced materials, which dovetails with the shop’s premise of spreading good by selling quality goods. Says Hollier: “The idea of working in a space where I feel we are leaving a positive impact is very much a part of who I am.” How do you think Balefire Goods stands out from its competitors? You can buy jewelry that starts at $30 but then goes all the way up to $1,000, and it has a different feel from a traditional jewelry store. One JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
JCK010119_043_SHOP_InnovativeRetailer_v2.indd 44
of the best compliments I’ve gotten is that the store feels like a permanent artisan fair. I love that. I wanted to sell fine jewelry—stuff that will last, stuff that will become heirlooms. And I wanted people to know they could buy from a person who made a thing—and that they could buy it at a similar price that they’d spend on a mass-produced brand. There are people who want to buy things online. That’s their thing and that’s fine. We sell a little online, but I don’t see us being a big online retailer. We appeal to those people who want to connect with artists. Whom would you consider to be your core client? I always joke about this, but it’s fun, middle-aged women with funky hair! Women who have an artistic streak, but they’re lawyers, doctors, teachers, a whole range of things. They all have an interest in being a little independent and different.
How did you get into jewelry initially? My undergraduate degree is in metalsmithing and art history. And I worked for a jewelry store for a while before working as an art buyer for a publishing company in the late ’90s, early 2000s. Then I followed opportunities, and I ended up opening two technology companies. I still have them—and it was great working on them, but it wasn’t what I wanted to be doing. When I traveled, I would visit jewelry stores. I always kept a little bit of an eye on the artisan jewelry world. Last year I said, “I’m ready for a change,” and I told my husband I wanted to do an art jewelry store— there wasn’t really one like that in the Denver area.
really simple designs with simple lines. I launched it with a local metalsmith I know, Jamie Mclandsborough. We wanted something that didn’t follow trends, that had classic lines, and that was made to last—it had to live up to the active Colorado lifestyle. I was introduced to Jamie through the local metalsmithing community. We hit it off and felt similarly about things. I said, “I want to make a different kind of [wedding and commitment] line.” And he told me he wanted to make a collection that fixes all the things he has to repair on rings all the time. Both of us were like, “We want them to buy a ring and never come back to us with it!”
You recently debuted a collection of wedding and commitment jewelry sold at Balefire—tell me about that. The collection is called Kindle, and it’s ethically sourced and is based on
GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.
FROM LEFT: VINCENT COMPARETTO; AARON LUCY; BALEFIRE GOODS
Left: Balefire’s Kindle collection of ethically made commitment rings; right: Hollier’s own sterling silver and gaspeite cufflinks
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7+2567(1 %2/' o 81,48( o 02'(51
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4 & & 6 4 "5 + $ , 5 6 $ 4 0 / # 0 0 5 )
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Shop Talk
Proudly made in the USA Since 1951
IL
COOL INTENTIONS BY EMILI VESILIND
Q: What major goal do you have for your store in 2019, and how do you plan to achieve it? a:
a: We’re on the board of our local boutique district, and our biggest goal is to promote local shopping in our area. We realize we absolutely have to focus on our return customers—they keep the doors open. We launched a VIP program and a campaign, and we’re really concentrating on creating experiences for the customers: events with multiple stores and other collaborations. It all leads to an elevated experience for our shoppers. We also want to grow our social media; we’re selling directly off Instagram now, and people are loving that.
KATYA ANANIEVA CO-OWNER SHE’S UNIQUE Alexandria, Va. shopshesunique.com
a:
MEG CARROLL OWNER MEG C JEWELRY GALLERY Lexington, Ky. megcgallery.com
I’m working on trying to engage the local community more. I’m hoping to host more events in the store—we brought in a few new local brands and some artists who do crafts, not jewelry, and I feel like we can introduce them to people in fun ways. And I’d like to do more events with other local businesses. I’d also like to get back to designing jewelry personally. I’d like to refocus and come up with some great new lines!
World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry
516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com
JAMES K. SMITH OWNER SMITH JEWELRY Princeton, Ind.
DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.
I’d like to freshen the sales floor—give it a new look, get new carpeting, buy some new displays, and bulk up our inventory a little more. Then we have the goal we always have, of getting well prepared for our busy periods: Mother’s Day, Easter, and June graduations.
KIRK BERTRAM CO-OWNER BERTRAM’S JEWELRY STUDIO Tomah, Wis. bertramsjewelrystudio.com
a: We opened the store recently, so my goal is to let people know we’re here. We’ve done newspaper and radio, and we’ll be looking at some other [outlets]. We’re trying to do anything and everything to become a part of the community—we’re going to events, focusing on local happenings. We need to get the word out that I want you, as someone shopping for jewelry, to sit down and design a piece of jewelry with me! JCKONLINE.COM
An American Wedding Deserves An American Made Band TM
www.hooverandstrong.com 800-759-9997
SHOP TALK
STORE WE ADORE
48
515 NINTH ST. OAKLAND, CALIF.
K
ATE ELLEN LOVES jewelry that makes a statement, so you won’t find much dainty or hyperfeminine jewelry inside Crown Nine, her small fine jewelry store in downtown Oakland, Calif. Instead, geometric glass cases are mostly full of dense and oversize metalwork. This is the style that has always spoken to Ellen, the motif that inspired her to ditch a career in education to turn her hobby of jewelry-making into a full-time business. “I’ve always liked the kinds of pieces you can grab onto,” she says.
CAREER CHANGE
CROWN NINE
Jewelry-making came late for Ellen, a Marin County, Calif., native who started out as a teacher. She taught a variety of subjects and at one point traveled all over the San Francisco Bay Area teaching kids about sex. When her day job got stressful, Ellen signed up for a metalsmithing class to relax. She was hooked. “Something about working with tools and metals and my torch unlocked everything for me,” she recalls. Within weeks, she was making custom pieces for friends and family. About two years later, in 2011, a landlord
Heavy metal takes on new meaning at Crown Nine, a tiny store in downtown Oakland that celebrates metalsmithing with big, bold, and beautiful jewelry from an eclectic bunch of independent designers BY MATT VILLANO PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEN GUTMAKER
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
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12/17/18 11:20 AM
49
“To me, one of the best things about jewelry is that if you make a mistake, you can just recycle it.” —Kate Ellen
Opposite page: Kate Ellen with her Cavalier King Charles spaniel, Jim Dude Esquire (his name nods to The Big Lebowski and Bill & Ted ).
offered her six months of free rent at a downtown Oakland space, a deal she couldn’t refuse. She opened Crown Nine with $700 in her bank account and a mind full of dreams.
HEAVY METALS The first two years were challenging, but Ellen persevered, and Crown Nine moved into its current two-story digs in 2013. Today the store occupies a small room with exposed brick on the ground floor, and the studio is up above. Metalsmithing still is a big part of the concept. Ellen designs and creates her own fine jewelry, but the bulk of the collection represents about 20 other makers. “We want to work with independent designers who are making their own work,” Ellen explains. Some of the artists featured include Derek McKay Duncan, Marja Germans Gard, Giovanna Torrico, and Amanda Hunt. Crown Nine also sells hairpins and jewelry storage vessels that Ellen makes.
WEDDING BUSY A burgeoning wedding business accounts for a significant part of Ellen’s revenue stream. Often this means she’s making JCKONLINE.COM
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rings and simple necklaces with twists on classic designs. Sometimes, it also can mean something totally over the top: a cuff, a choker, or other pieces. Though Ellen strives to work with the materials her customers request, her favorite combination is yellow gold with a bicolor Montana sapphire or old mine–cut diamonds. She also adds a brushed finish to most of her wedding items to “soften them up.” Prices for these pieces start around $800 and go to $5,000 and beyond.
THE CONSTANT JUGGLE In 2018 Ellen achieved another lifelong goal: She became a mom. Because she’s a sole proprietor, and because she has prioritized becoming a hands-on parent, Ellen brings her daughter to work regularly. Sometimes managing motherhood and the store can be difficult, but Ellen wouldn’t have it any other way. “I dreamed in the early days that I would be where I am today. It’s even better than I ever imagined.” DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
12/17/18 11:20 AM
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the industry authority
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS
THE LOOK
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3 TO INFINITY & BEYOND 1/ Long tapered link necklace in sterling silver; $450; Ten Thousand Things; 212-352-1333; tenthousandthingsnyc.com
2/ Diamond Camille earrings in 18k Fairmined yellow gold; $12,104; Ana Khouri; 646-998-4840; anakhouri.com
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The humble circle—a symbol of the everlasting—is elevated through interlocking motifs BY RANDI MOLOFSKY
3/ Neptune ring in sterling silver and 18k yellow gold; $2,800; Spinelli Kilcollin; marisa@spinellikilcollin. com; spinellikilcollin.com
4/ Unity diamond earrings in 18k yellow gold; $18,000; Cadar; 212-663-3456; cadar.com
5/ Black-and-white Terra link bracelet in sterling silver; $1,320; Emanuela Duca; info@emanueladuca.com; emanueladuca.com
JCKONLINE.COM
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12/17/18 11:23 AM
the look
RED CARPET
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BLACK IS THE NEW BLACK The classic evening shade is anything but basic when combined with mega jewels BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
The Breakthrough Prizes are no time to go over-the-top fashion-wise— the ceremony honors scientists with multimillion-dollar awards—but Moore knows that understated doesn’t equal boring. To add color to her black Prada column gown (with a chic cocoa sequin cape), she turned to her favorite jeweler, Chopard, which also outfitted her with two massive diamond cuffs tipping the scales at more than 53 and 74 cts. t.w. each.
CAMILA CABELLO
Normally we wouldn’t get this excited about a corset (because…ouch), but Cabello and stylist Karla Welch went and paired this custom embellished sweetheart-necked Armani Prive number with a pair of trousers at the American Music Awards, where she took home four trophies. Trousers! Plus a whole mess of diamonds— including a classic Serpenti jewel— courtesy of Bulgari. Now good luck getting “Havana” out of your head. Serpenti bracelet in 18k white gold with diamonds and emeralds; $68,000; Bulgari; 800-BULGARI; bulgari.com
Earrings with orange garnets, pastel pink and yellow sapphires, lavender chalcedony cabochons, blue topaz, and tsavorites in titanium; price on request; Chopard; 800-CHOPARD; chopard.com/us
UNDER $5,000 14k gold and multicolored sapphire Palm Tree earrings; $3,450; Effy Jewelry; 212-944-0020; effyjewelry.com
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Blossom earrings with diamonds, tanzanite, imperial topaz, chalcedony, amethyst, and calcite in 18k rose gold; $15,900; Fernando Jorge; info@ fernandojorge.co.uk; fernandojorge.co.uk
UNDER $20,000
UNDER $75,000 Wide white gold cuff with 13.59 cts. t.w. entwining round diamond ribbons; $61,000; Picchiotti; 404-239-9900; picchiotti.it
(FROM LEFT) IMAGESPACE/MEDIAPUNCH/IPX/AP IMAGES; STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE
JULIANNE MOORE
UNDER $10,000 Risha bracelet with 11.02 cts. t.w. diamonds and 32.6 cts. t.w. emeralds in rhodium-plated sterling silver and gold vermeil; $7,500; Modern Moghul; 361-239-8799; modernmoghul.com
JCKONLINE.COM
12/17/18 11:26 AM
18K 0.50 tdw
$309.00
18K 1.50 tdw
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$1155.00
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4.00 tdw
$2205.00
5.00 tdw
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the look
DESIGNER SHOWCASE
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MATERIAL GIRL
Brooke Gregson builds on her background in textiles to weave together a collection of varying dynamic colors, cuts, and finishes BY EVELYN CROWLEY
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Mandala engraved rhodochrosite diamond necklace in 18k yellow gold; $7,000; Brooke Gregson; carly@ brookegregson.com; brookegregson.com
Tourmaline and fire opal rings with diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $1,850–$4,300
N HER SMALL studio overlooking Los Angeles’ sun-swathed Venice neighborhood, jewelry designer Brooke Gregson is rhapsodizing about boulder opals. “You can actually see nature in them,” she says of the Australian stones with their veins of fossilized sediment. Nearby, a glass-enclosed shelf showcases some of her recent work: a raw diamond set in a pale-blush enamel band, sapphire studs with cascades of delicately knotted gold chains, a pendant necklace of boulder opal (naturally) that resembles the surface of Mars. The pieces belong to different collections—Gregson creates several each year—but they share a feminine yet earthy aesthetic and a soulful appeal. “My clients tend to buy my jewelry because it makes them feel something,” she says. “It’s not just because they saw it in a magazine.” Growing up with a mother who collected crystals, Gregson came to believe early on in the mystical power of stones. “We had a terrace full of them,” recalls Gregson, an L.A. native.
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“There was amethyst to protect the home, rose quartz and kunzite to open up the heart and bring love into your life.” Gregson’s father, meanwhile, was a fine jewelry connoisseur who instilled in his daughter an appreciation for technical virtuosity and time-honored methods. His influence is clear in her eponymous line, which is entirely handmade by master craftspeople. Most recently, she added an enamel expert to the fold. “The best enamel work has to be done on pure gold that’s been hand-forged,” she explains. “I can tell with my eyes closed when something’s been cast-made.” Given her gem-centric upbringing, it’s surprising that Gregson didn’t get into the jewelry business sooner. Although she majored in geology at University of California San Diego, she ultimately opted for a different course after graduation. “I thought I wanted to be an artist,” she says. So she sold her car and moved to London to enroll in Chelsea College of Arts, where she fell hard for postimpressionism and color theory. JCKONLINE.COM
12/14/18 5:41 PM
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“The more you layer, the more you’re able to reveal your personality.” —Brooke Gregson
Woven Gemstone silk bracelets with pink tourmaline, aquamarine, diamond, boulder opal, and sapphires in silver and 14k and 18k gold; $970–$7,085
Gemini, $1,830, Aquarius, $2,200, and Pisces, $1,430, Astrology necklaces in 14k brushed gold
Talisman earrings with 7.59 cts. t.w. boulder opals, 2.7 cts. t.w. emeralds, 0.51 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $23,800
Eventually she gravitated toward textile design and got a job at a London firm, rising through the ranks to a director role and working with major fashion labels such as Louis Vuitton, Kenzo, Gap, and Marni. The work was creative and exciting but took a toll, stress-wise. “Not only was I designing, but I was selling and hiring as well,” she says. To relax, she began taking jewelry-making classes. “I used it as a release.” Soon, Gregson was designing pieces for friends on the side. In 2004 she created a collection of necklaces with diamond-studded renderings of the zodiac constellations. “I used 14 karat brushed gold, which gave them a textural quality,” she says. “I like using different tactile surfaces in my work, probably because of my textile background.” The Astrology collection, as it became known, was a hit. Trendy L.A. boutique Fred Segal snapped it up. “From the front, it just looks like an abstract cluster of diamonds,” says Gregson of the pendant design, which remains popular today. “It’s only when you flip it over that you see the engraved lines connecting the diamonds to form the zodiac sign.” In other words, the pieces can have a private meaning for their wearer. JCKONLINE.COM
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For Gregson, this was more appealing than anything she felt she could accomplish with textiles. “I realized that jewelry was where it was at for me,” she says, “because it can resonate on a deeper, personal level—whether it’s an astrological sign or a protective symbol or just a feeling.” But it took another four years and a move back to London in 2008 to convince Gregson to pursue a jewelry career full-time. “In Europe, I saw there was a market for what I was doing,” she says. “I had this West Coast vibe, and I was working with a lot of raw diamonds and unique cuts that were still uncommon there.” So she set up shop, creating pieces like bracelets made of gold chain interwoven with silk ribbon and set with moonstones. Before long, storied London department stores like Harvey Nichols and Liberty were knocking on her door with orders. In 2016, Gregson made her way back to Los Angeles to raise her children in a sunny and more familiar environment. But she still carries a torch for her home across the pond. “In London, you can just walk out your door and get inspired,” says the designer, who keeps a studio in the city’s artsy JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
12/14/18 5:41 PM
the look
DESIGNER SHOWCASE
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Waterfall halo earrings with 1.36 cts. t.w. pink sapphires and 1.33 cts. t.w. rubies in 18k gold; $5,700
Talisman Shield ring with 1.62 cts. t.w. blue and pink sapphires and 3.76 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $26,850 Diamond pavé band square ring in 18k gold, $9,600; Talisman engraved Starlight diamond ring in 18k gold, $3,800
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Shoreditch district in addition to her California space in Venice. “I lived a block away from Portobello Market, and I’d go and find the most insane antique jewelry. And the street style was just incredible.” In a way, it’s fitting that Gregson’s line is based in two cities halfway around the world. After all, her pieces thrive on unlikely pairings—textured and polished surfaces, traditional craftsmanship and New Age spirituality. “I like finding a balance,” she says. “I think people are complex, and I think jewelry should show different layers of character.” While Gregson does a lot of custom work (including her fair share of engagement rings), she’s always dreaming up her next collection, which arises from whatever themes and visual references are preoccupying her at the moment. A recent rough patch, for instance, inspired a series of protective symbols. “I decided I needed to spend some time healing,” she recalls. “So I did all these watercolors of dream catchers and geometric evil eyes, and the collection grew out of those.” She called it the Talisman series and incorporated diamonds, hand-carved moonstones, and engraved and enamel details. At present, she’s working on a collection inspired by nature in general and flowers specifically. “I didn’t like flowers two years ago, and now I’m obsessed with them,” she says with a laugh. For research, she’s been looking at the work of artist Line Vautrin and photographs by Karl Blossfeldt. She also takes her sketchbook to the Huntington Botanical Gardens in San Marino. “I find myself gravitating toward daisies and flowers that have a mandala shape,” she says, referring to the ancient Hindu circular design meant to represent the cosmos. The new collection, which will incorporate tapered baguettes, unique cabochons, and enamel work, is due out in February—just in time for Gregson’s annual trip to gem week and her exhibit at the JCK Tucson show. The Arizona desert pilgrimage is something of a family affair. “I usually go with my mom and Aunt Pat, who brings a truck and gets all the big crystals,” says Gregson. The three women go their separate ways during the day and reconvene afterward for an impromptu show-and-tell of their finds. “The one year I went alone I was so stressed out and unhappy,” Gregson says. “You find the best stones when you’re enjoying yourself and open.” In the past, Gregson would come to Tucson with a set agenda. “I was like, ‘Okay, I’m doing this collection and it has to be this way and I have to find these stones,’ ” she says. However, these days she has a looser idea of what she’s looking for. Opals and raw diamonds, of course, but she leaves room for the random, felicitous encounter. “With the best stones, I’ll pick them up and get the chills and just know.” JCKONLINE.COM
12/14/18 5:42 PM
Jan Rose
“My name is Jan Rose from Rose Jewelers in Southampton, Long Island, NY. I’m a 3rd generation owner and we’re in the process of a closing sale.
“My experience with Wilkerson was so different. They sent competent people and they knew what they were doing. I was very comfortable with the process. It was a totally different experience.” Jan Rose Rose Jewelers Long Island, NY
I chose Wilkerson because I had some friends in the industry who are part of a business group I belong to, who had previously used Wilkerson. I didn’t have a great experience with another big company when I closed one of my other stores. That is how I ended up speaking to Rick Hayes at Wilkerson, and it was great. My experience with Wilkerson was so different. They sent competent people and they knew what they were doing. I was very comfortable with the process. It was a totally different experience. We’re not quite finished but we’re almost there. We did reach our goal and are hoping to reach another goal. The sale has met my expectations and more, actually. It’s been good. The staff has been happy and everything has been very positive. I think it’s important for any jeweler contemplating a going out of business, or some type of retirement sale, to investigate your options, but to also talk to other jewelers who have been through this because that’s where the lessons come in. I think the benefit of working with a company like Wilkerson is they have the marketing background. I have some from advertising my business but this is totally different. They know what they’re doing in this area. You have to trust the process, which is hard for a lot of us to do. I’m a bit of a control freak. It’s hard when you’re used to controlling everything about your business, and then to give it up to somebody, but it was worth doing for sure.”
-Jan Rose
Contact us today for a free consultation! Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999. Or visit us at wilkersons.com.
the look
Q&A
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Asks...
ALISON CHEMLA We’re overcome with emojis talking to the New York City–based designer behind Alison Lou WHO SAYS STATEMENT jewelry has to be oversize—or overpriced? Not Alison Lou. The brand has made a name for itself, so to speak, with words, letters, and emojis, all playfully rendered in colorful enamel and solid 14k gold. “Our customers have a strong connection to the jewelry,” says creative director and designer Alison Chemla, who’s also caused a stir with her candy-colored Lucite hoops (dubbed, cleverly, Loucite). “They purchase emoji pieces that represent themselves and gift others that represent their friends. I love that.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 30 Number of years in the biz: Six Number of employees you oversee: Four. We are small but mighty. Family and pets: I am one of three girls. My younger sister just got a Yorkie named Yoshi [pictured] that I am the on-call babysitter for—she is the best. Describe your personal style: I like to say I am modern vintage. I love to mix vintage finds with newer pieces. I keep my style pretty simple; most days you will find me in old Levi’s and a T-shirt, and as expected I accessorize, accessorize, accessorize! First piece you ever designed: I drew seven of my Emoticore faces at once, and the first to be produced was the Mwa! kiss face with ruby lips, which is still one of our most popular pieces. JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
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Alison Lou’s He Loves Me ring with yellow sapphire and diamonds
The Custom Word Huggy in 14k yellow gold with a diamond accent
The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: My one-ofa-kind He Loves Me ring, which resembles a daisy with an 11 carat yellow sapphire center, pear-shape white diamond petals, and a green enamel band. Best piece of advice you ever received: “You have to spend money to make money.” First job ever: Working at House of Waris. How did you get started designing jewelry? Growing up, I would ask for a piece of jewelry each year for my birthday. I love that jewelry can capture a moment. I knew when I started my own line it would have to be different, and at the time emojis were how everyone was communicating. After texting with an old boyfriend back and forth solely with emojis, I realized this was it—this was the start of Alison Lou. If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? I would make a good talent agent. Emoji you can’t live without: Jewelry you’re wearing right now: I am really into our custom font personalized pieces right now. I have on about five pieces that say my name or initials just in case I ever forget! The Custom Word Huggy, custom nameplate necklace, mini Word bracelet, and my favorite pavé white diamond initial pinkie ring. If you go onto my site, you can type in any name, word, etc., and see what the piece will look like before ordering. Five items on your desk right now: A water bottle, a pair of Loucite hoops, my stationery, a notebook for sketching, my millimeter gauge. Five songs on your playlist: “Everywhere,” Fleetwood Mac; “Best Friend,” Rex Orange County; “Breathin’,” Ariana Grande [pictured]; “Can’t Say,” Travis Scott; “Love My Way,” the Psychedelic Furs. Exercise regimen: Punch Fitness and yoga at Sky Ting. What did you have for breakfast? Always black coffee. Guilty pleasure: Twizzlers and watching Shark Tank; maybe I even purchase a thing or 10… Drink (daytime/evening): Coffee/Casamigos with soda and lime. First website you check every day (not your own!): Net-a-Porter…to check on my stuff! Scent: Her by Narciso Rodriguez. Favorite movie: I Love You, Man. Who would play you in your life story? Penélope Cruz... obviously. Personal motto: “Say it, forget it; write it, regret it!”
I LOVE YOU, MAN: © DREAMWORKS/EVERETT; DRINK: EDDIE BERMAN/E+/GETTY
Customize the medium Lovestruck Necklace with your choice of colored enamel eyes.
JCKONLINE.COM
12/17/18 4:14 PM
M AY 3 0 - J U N E 3 , 2 0 1 9 THE SANDS EXPO & CONVENTION CENTER LAS VEGAS, NV
NOW 5 DAYS LONG & STARTING ONE DAY BEFORE JCK JIS Exchange is the premier at-show delivery event during Las Vegas Jewelry Week. In partnership with JCK Las Vegas, JIS Exchange 2019 will be held alongside JCK and LUXURY
in the Sands Expo & Convention Center on the 3rd Floor, featuring Fashion & Silver exhibitors that each specialize in and transact in at-show delivery. This is your destination
to purchase all the instant inventory you need as you head into the fall selling season.
LEARN MORE AT JISSHOW.COM/EXCHANGE
REGISTER TO ATTEND OR APPLY TO EXHIBIT TODAY! S TAY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S S H O W
IN PAR T NERSHIP W IT H
LAS VEGAS
Thank you to everyone who made 2018 possible.
Wait till you see 2019.
NYC JW19 NEW YORK CITY JEWELRY WEEK 2019
Join us November 18-24, 2019. nycjewelryweek.com
@nycjewelryweek
HAIR: FERNANDO TORRENT AT L’ATELIER NYC USING R+CO; MAKEUP: MISHA SHAHZADA FOR CHANTECAILLE AT FORWARD ARTISTS; MANICURIST: ROSEANN SINGLETON FOR EMILIE HEATHE/ ART DEPARTMENT; MODEL: ALANA ZIMMER/WOMEN MANAGEMENT; TANK: ASKK
Victorian convertible 7 cts. t.w. diamond fringe tiara in silver-topped yellow gold, $75,000, Fred Leighton, 646-7599668, fredleighton. com; baguette fishhook hoops in 14k yellow gold with 0.98 ct. t.w. white topaz, $1,345, Alexa Sidaris for Malibu Gem Lab, 424-835-1490, malibugemlab.com; Modernist ring and necklace in 18k white gold with diamonds and sapphires, $3,485–$4,991, Ralph Masri, 646329-5284, ralphmasri. com; 18k white gold ring with 1.05 cts. t.w. diamonds, $3,919, Couture by Ashi, 212-3198291, ashidiamonds. com; Saturn bangle in 18k yellow gold with 1.53 cts. t.w. white diamond pavé, $8,715, ARK Fine Jewelry, 646-7456831, arkfinejewelry. com; one-of-a-kind rhomboid ring in 18k gold with 1.3 cts. t.w. diamonds, $16,400, Emily P. Wheeler, 646-745-6831, emilypwheeler.com; Corona shield ring in 14k recycled gold with 1.33 cts. t.w. diamonds, $3,200, Valerie Madison, 206-395-6359, valeriemadison.com
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FEATURES
Photograph by Mikael Schulz
12/17/18 12:14 PM
Wedding Belle GO BEYOND THE ENGAGEMENT R I N G W I T H B R A C E L E T S TA C K S , L AY E R E D C H A I N S , M I X - A N D - M AT C H EARRINGS, AND RIGHT-HAND BLING—JEWELS SHE’LL WEAR L O N G A F T E R T H E B I G D AY
Photography by Mikael Schulz St ylist Nina Sterghiou Jewelry editor Rima Suqi
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Treehopper stud in 18k yellow gold with 0.03 ct. t.w. diamond, $380, Treehopper stud in 10k yellow gold with royal blue moonstone, $540, Hirotaka, 81-36256-9617, hiro-taka. com; 18k yellow gold and platinum bar necklace with 2.7 cts. t.w. diamonds, $30,000, Leigh Maxwell, jackie@barri. onmicrosoft.com, leighmaxwell.com; Reverse Trio ring in 18k yellow gold with 1.22 cts. t.w.
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diamonds, $8,995, Established, 646-745-6831, establishedjewelry. com; Rock Smashes Scissors 14k yellow gold ring with 0.22 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,600, Lane + Lanae, 212-2193793, laneandlanae. com; Equinox and Solstice bracelets in 18k yellow and white gold with 1.9 cts.–7.5 cts. t.w. diamonds, $15,600– $48,600, Maor, 323-917-5081, info@ maorofficial.com; maorofficial.com
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Bar earrings in 18k white gold with 3 cts. t.w. diamonds, $16,000, Rahaminov Diamonds, 213-6229866, rahaminov. com; Waterfall necklace in 18k white gold with 57.71 cts. t.w. diamonds, $138,000, Etho Maria, 786-3690485, ethomaria. com; 18k white gold ring with 1.46 cts. t.w. diamonds, $5,750, Beny Sofer, 212-575-0213, benysofer.com; 14k white gold pearshape ring with 1.02 cts. t.w. diamonds, $2,590, Artistry Ltd., 888-674-3250, artistrylimited.com
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Cento Diamond Dolce Deco pendant necklace in 18k white gold with 7.51 cts. t.w. diamonds, $33,000, Roberto Coin, 212-486-4545, robertocoin.com; platinum earrings with sapphires and diamonds, $31,600, Omi PrivĂŠ, 877-6644367, omiprive.com; Us double-halo Petals ring in 14k white gold with 1.55 cts. t.w. diamonds, $20,500
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and up, Uneek by Benjamin Javaheri, 888-238-6335, uneek jewelry.com; Eclipse ring in 18k white gold with 2 cts. t.w. diamonds, $9,650, Kwiat, 212-2231111, salesteam@ kwiat.com, kwiat. com; bracelet with 9.25 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $54,060, Jye’s International, 415-621-8880, jyescorp.com
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18k white gold earrings with 1.78 cts. t.w. diamonds, $5,700, Beny Sofer, 212-575-0213, benysofer.com; 18k white gold choker with 12.85 cts. t.w. diamonds, $33,565, Couture by Ashi, 212-319-8291, ashidiamonds.com; French baguette band in 18k white gold with 1.89 cts. t.w. diamonds, $16,800, Rahaminov Diamonds, 213-6229866, rahaminov.com; Trinity 18k white gold ring with 2.5 ct. center diamond and 1.14 cts. t.w. side stones, $12,500, Michael M, 818565-3355, michaelm collection.com
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Legacy earrings in platinum with 8.47 cts. t.w. diamonds, $179,500, Kwiat, 212-223-1111, salesteam@kwiat. com, kwiat.com; 18k white gold collar necklace with 5.16 cts. t.w. diamonds, $26,000, Suzanne Kalan, 818-885-6400, suzannekalan.com
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Cluster studs in 18k white gold with 2.11 cts. t.w. diamonds, $40,000, Rahaminov Diamonds, 213-6229866, rahaminov. com; 18k white gold necklace with 1.8 cts. t.w. diamonds, $6,149, Couture by Ashi, 212-319-8291, ashidiamonds.com; Tipton ring in 18k white gold with 1.98 cts. t.w. diamonds, $12,200, Jye’s International, 415621-8880, jyescorp. com; platinum ring with 9.63 ct. cornflower-blue sapphire, 0.12 ct. t.w. round sapphires, 1.32 cts. t.w. baguette diamonds, and 0.82 ct. t.w. round diamonds, $90,000, Omi PrivÊ, 877644-4367, omiprive. com; 18k white gold bracelet with 48.04 cts. t.w. diamonds, $396,000, Etho Maria, 786-3690485, ethomaria.com
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(FROM FIRST PAGE) TOP: ASKK; KNIT TANK: TSE; SWEATER: LAURE DE SAGAZAN; OFF-THE-SHOULDER SHIRT: TOME; V-NECK: ROSA CHA
One-inch pavé ear charm in 14k yellow gold with 0.1 ct. t.w. diamond, $530 each, 14k yellow gold 0.1 ct. rose-cut diamond stud, $495 each, 14k yellow gold bar stud with 0.07 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds, $425 each, Stacy Nolan, 213-3946656, stacynolan. com; mini Gateways dangling necklace in 18k gold with 0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds, $5,565, ARK Fine Jewelry, 646-7456831, arkfinejewelry. com; Scissors Cuts Paper neck chain in 14k yellow gold with 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,200, Lane + Lanae, 212-2193793, laneandlanae. com; open hexagon necklace in 18k gold with 1.15 cts. t.w. diamonds, $6,800, Emily P. Wheeler, 646-745-6831, emilypwheeler.com
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PER FEC T P R O P O SA L S “Will you marry me?”
I
t may be the most iconic question of all time— and unquestionably so for jewelers, who tend to supply the key accessory. Sometimes, the engagement ring purchase calls for conspiring with clients, a bit of pixie dust and creativity to make the moment extra magical, jumping through hoops to ensure the ring is ready on time, or just having a bottle or two of bubbly on hand for any proposals that should happen on the premises (more common than you think!). “Retailers are definitely creating a long- lasting bond with couples when they help them through the proposal process, not just finding a ring,” says Severine Ferrari, founder and editor of Engagement 101, a media platform dedicated to helping couples plan their engagements, including a robust archive of real proposal stories. We put together a quick-read anthology of some awww-mazing proposal stories, as shared by your jewelry industry peers, whether it was staging an Italian-themed café in a public alley, advising on the best places to pop the question in Disneyland, or racing to the airport to make sure the ring remained a secret up to the last minute.
York City. He’d already chosen and purchased a ring from us, and wanted to pop the question here in our store. After visiting a nearby cat café, the couple walked a few steps down to ‘casually’ stop in and look at jewelry. He wanted the ring out on the case and waiting for her, and to make Stephen’s proposal feel extra special and unforgettable, we brought out some Champagne and chocolates from The Sweet Life, a local confectionery, to sweeten the deal.”
going to be traveling, and the groom wanted to pop the question while they were away. Within a week we had a center stone picked out, and the setting went into production—we moved fast. And then a week later, I picked up a Zipcar in Manhattan where I live and drove one and a half hours outside of the city to personally deliver the engagement ring on a Sunday night because the couple had to catch a plane early Monday morning.”
—ELIZABETH McLEAN , sales associate,
—VINCENT PERUGINI , owner, Vincents Fine Jewelry, Pelham, N.Y.
SWEET SURPRISE
GOING THE DISTANCE
“Our California-based client, Stephen, planned to propose during a surprise romantic getaway to New
“I once had a couple who needed a custom ring to be made and delivered within two weeks. They were
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Anna Sheffield, New York City
INSIDE JOB
QUICK THINKING
“We had a friend who wanted to surprise one of our employees with a proposal in the store. We were all in on the surprise and arranged to have the Cathy Waterman ring he’d chosen sitting out in our Ring Bar. So he came in to visit her, and they walked over to the Ring Bar. He went around behind the case, reached in, got the ring, came back out, and fell to his knees, saying, ‘Will you marry me?’ She screamed! We then had a celebration with Champagne, and then they left in a stretch limo carrying her parents, who had flown in for the occasion.”
“My all-time favorite story is one that happened not to me, but to my very determined colleague, Ellen. This guy from Florida reached out to Ellen on Yelp because of our reputation. He and Ellen exchanged many emails and phone calls to assess the style of the ring he wanted. He was going to fly up to Chicago to make final decisions but things fell through, so Ellen ran around between our three stores to pick out the perfect 2 carat diamond and mounting. They were going to FaceTime so that he could see everything, but in the end, we didn’t need to do that either. He just said, ‘I trust you,’ and bought the ring sight unseen. A few weeks later we shipped it to Florida just in time for his proposal.”
—JOANNE TEICHMAN , owner and founder, Ylang 23, Dallas
—PRISCILLA BORJA , sales associate, Steve Quick Jeweler, Chicago
AMY OLIVER/COURTESY HONEY DESIGNS
by Amy Elliott
12/17/18 11:50 AM
KODAK SAF ETY FILM
71 A coffee run turns into a surprise proposal (and prosecco toast!) for Cincinnati couple Steven and Marie thanks to the team at Honey Designs.
TY FILM KODAK SAFE
DISNEY DAZZLER “A customer came into the Brilliant Earth showroom in Los Angeles with the idea of proposing at Disneyland; coincidentally I happen to love Disneyland myself, so I was very excited to help with this request. I helped him find a beautiful ring on short notice, shipping it directly to the FedEx office in Anaheim so it would be available on time and right outside of the park. I made a recommendation for the perfect lunch spot in the park and brainstormed potential proposal locations and ideas with him, including having a caricature artist sketch their images—and the ring—right before he proposed.” —TIM SULLIVAN , director of showrooms, Brilliant Earth, San Francisco
RING FOR COFFEE “I coordinate custom proposal experiences for the clients I design rings for, and we had a situation where the bride, Marie, was tipped off by a friend that our client, Steven, was going to propose while they were on a trip to Italy. So with just two days’ notice we were able to plan a surprise proposal before, around Marie’s birthday party happening at a local brewery.
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They are coffee people, so we worked with Steven to have them grab coffee on their way to the party. We chose Deeper Roots, in Cincinnati’s historic Findlay market, where there’s an alleyway between the coffee shop and another store. My team set up a table for two with flowers, the couple’s favorite coffee drinks in paper cups, a bottle of prosecco, and Italian pastries. And as always, we had a photographer there to capture the details, the big moment, the reactions, and some portraits.” —CHELSEA MEAD , owner, Honey Designs, Cincinnati
AIRPORT RECON “A lot of couples get engaged out of town and that causes issues like disguising the bulge of a ring box in your pocket, or packing the ring in luggage that the fiancée may have access to at home (or that can get lost). So we have a very thin ring pouch that we give to the grooms—it fits right in their wallet. But since most of our grooms want to propose by holding up an open ring box in front of the bride-to-be, we have had to meet clients at the airport to hand off the ring box. They take it from us and then quickly toss it into their carry-on while she’s already through security.” —SUSAN EISEN , owner, Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry & Watches, El Paso and Austin, Texas
MOUNTAINTOP LOGISTICS “I had a client who wanted to propose on the top of Vail Mountain when skiing, so I helped him formulate his plan of attack. We decided he and his fiancée would stop to get their picture taken by one of the ski resort photographers at the summit, and that he would pop the question during the photo session so that it would be a surprise but also c aptured on camera. We called the photography team at Vail and helped our client coordinate with them so the photographer would know exactly what was going down—and to make sure they took their helmets and goggles off! It all went off without a hitch.” —KAELEIGH TESTWUIDE , owner, The Diamond Reserve, Denver
SPEEDY DELIVERY “Our client, Michael, was about to return to his station in the military within a few weeks and was determined to propose before he left. He had purchased a Sylvie Collection mounting from us, and we were able to set a stone and have it ready for him immediately, just in time for a surprise skydive adventure for his fiancée, Kristen, the next morning.” —PAUL LIROT, owner, Paul Lirot Jewelers, Madison, Conn.
12/17/18 11:50 AM
WE WILL ROCK YOU MAKE A BIG NOISE WITH THESE CUTTING-EDGE G E M S TO N E S T Y L E S . YO U M I G H T S AY T H E Y ’ R E FIT FOR A QUEEN.
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PURPLE GEMS (Clockwise from top) 14k rose gold ring with 2 ct. amethyst and 0.09 ct. t.w. diamonds, $970, Berco, 800-621-0668, bercojewelry. com; bracelet with 18.3 cts. t.w. amethysts in sterling silver with black rhodium, $5,100, Dilamani, 516-466-6767, dilamani.com; Hex 14k yellow gold ring with 6.65 ct. amethyst, $1,385, Alexa Sidaris for Malibu Gem Lab, 424-8351490, malibugemlab.com; Ashna earrings with 8 cts. t.w. amethysts and 0.75 ct. t.w. diamonds in rhodium-plated sterling silver, $850 (sold as pair), Modern Moghul, 361-239-8799, modernmoghul.com
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E NA M E L & I N L AY (Clockwise from top) 18k yellow gold Raquel ring with 2.18 ct. tanzanite and turquoise and purple enamel, $4,625, Sig Ward, 310-871-5360, sigwardjewelry.com; dome ring in 18k yellow gold with 5.08 ct. London blue topaz and 1.53 cts. t.w. peridot, $6,500, Erica Courtney, 323-938-2373, ericacourtney.com; Goddess enamel threader earrings in 18k yellow gold with 0.9 ct. t.w. emeralds, $6,555 (sold as pair), Tara Hirshberg for Gemfields x MUSE, 866-301-6873, musexmuse. com; Polkadot Inlay ring in 18k rose gold with opal, lapis, black onyx, carnelian, green and blue turquoise, cacholong, and charoite, $5,800, Marla Aaron, 917-991-9246, marlaaaron.com
Photography by Joel Stans Pr op st yl i st Emily Mullin Jewelry editor Rima Suqi
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C A RV E D STO N ES (Clockwise from top) Cantala earrings in 14k yellow gold with carved turquoise and 0.56 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,018 (sold as pair), Eva Noga, sales@evanoga.com, evanoga.com; 18k yellow gold Fortunate Offerings earrings with carved tourmaline, pink coral, and white diamonds, $8,000 (sold as pair), Guita M, 866-3016873, musexmuse.com; Bloom ring in 18k yellow gold with 13.44 ct. carved green tourmaline and 0.24 ct. t.w. diamonds, $7,095, Adel Chefridi, 845-684-5185, chefridi.com; Flower Vase necklace in 18k yellow gold with carved malachite, red coral, amethyst, mother-of-pearl, carnelian, citrine, rainbow moonstone, and 0.04 ct. t.w. diamond (chain not shown), $13,850, Brent Neale, 646-745-6831, brentneale.com
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B I CO LO R & M U LT I CO LO R (From top) Koko ring with 36.11 ct. ametrine and 7 cts. t.w. multicolored sapphires, $11,000, Misahara, 805-390-6326, misahara.com; 18k white gold ring with 25.52 ct. bicolor tourmaline and 0.91 ct. t.w. diamonds, $18,000, Emily P. Wheeler, 646-745-6831, emilypwheeler.com; sidewaysrectangle ring in 14k rose gold with 7.5 ct. watermelon tourmaline, $4,685, Jacquie Aiche, 310-5507529, jacquieaiche.com; 18k yellow gold necklace with watermelon tourmaline, $935, Aimee Petkus, 908-208-8460, aimeepetkusjewelry. com; Dhaar earrings with 73.27 cts. t.w. multicolor sapphires and 1.45 cts. t.w. diamonds, $2,300 (sold as pair), Modern Moghul, 361-2398799, modernmoghul.com
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EMERALD ACC E N TS (From top) Forever earrings in 18k yellow gold with black rhodium, diamonds, and emeralds, $19,286 (sold as pair), Consuelo Blocker for Maxior, 55-11-3241-0233, maxior.com.br; 18k yellow gold earrings with tanzanite, diamonds, and emeralds, $24,950 (sold as pair), Joon Han, 310-339-5578, joonhanjewelry.com; 18k yellow gold Half Crownwork ball cocktail ring with green amethyst and emeralds, $4,985, Ray Griffiths Fine Jewelry, 212-689-7209, raygriffiths.com; 14k rose gold ring with 11.56 ct. opal, 4.77 cts. t.w. pink coral, 1.13 cts. t.w. emeralds, and 0.51 ct. t.w. diamonds, $9,054, Roberto Bravo, 90-212458-1720, robertobravo.com
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C L EA R QUA RT Z (From left) 18k yellow gold Gem Quartz Shake with 4.71 cts. t.w. diamonds inside and 0.4 ct. diamond on chain, $17,900, Renee Lewis, 212-580-3971, reneelewisjewelry. com; rock crystal and 18k yellow gold Arp earring, $2,140 (sold as pair), Ten Thousand Things, 212352-1333, tenthousandthingsnyc. com; 18k yellow gold Herkimer ring with diamond pavĂŠ halo, $3,000, ARK Fine Jewelry, 646-745-6831, arkfinejewelry.com; Grupo Corpo 18k Noble gold ring with 46.9 ct. quartz, $4,500, H.Stern, 212-6553910, hstern.net
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PA RT 1 O F 6
J C K WO U L D B E N OW H E R E W I T H O U T T H E I N D U S T RY I N S I D E R S W H O H AV E H E L P E D T H E M A G A Z I N E A L O N G T H E WAY — E I T H E R B Y M A K I N G THE NEWS, READING IT IN OUR PAGES, OR BOTH. SO WE ASKED 150 O F T H E M TO J O I N T H E D I A LO G U E A B O U T H OW T H E J EW E L RY BUSINESS HAS CHANGED OVER THE DECADES AND THE ROLE WE H AV E P L AY E D I N T H AT E V O L U T I O N . H E R E A R E T H E F I R S T 2 5 .
150 Y EA RS 150 VO I C ES B y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d
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79 •••
“I’ve been in the business for 30 years! When I first started, jewelry was much more cookie-cutter: There were only diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires in jewelry. If any other colored gemstones were used, they were noncollectible and inexpensive. These days, there is an allure to color; the more special the color is, the quicker it sells.” —ERICA COURTNEY, jewelry designer
•••
“For years, JCK had an amazing sales manager by the name of Bill Furman, who to many was an icon with his always smiling and energetic personality. We became friends and he would stop at our office on 46th Street to chat, and he always brought some artisanal chocolates as a gift. His passion and addiction to chocolate were infectious. Soon I was a chocoholic myself. One day we were lamenting what a terrible job the mine had done using the natural color diamonds from the Argyle mine in Australia. The fancy color browns were being called inferior stones, and the mine’s efforts to trademark and market champagne diamond lines had failed. Le Vian in 2000 launched its Chocolate Diamonds collections worldwide. Fifteen years later, 45 percent of Americans recognize the Chocolate Diamonds brand, but most— including Bill himself—didn’t know that Bill Furman’s love of artisanal chocolate was the inspiration.”
•••
“JCK magazine has continued to be a standout for news, deep knowledge of our industry, and articles on how to be a better retailer overall. The look and feel of the magazine continues to be best in class, and when you layer in the daily newsletter and our top-notch reporters, JCK really delivers on all cylinders.” —YANCY WEINRICH, senior vice president, Reed Jewelry Group
—EDDIE LEVIAN, CEO, Le Vian
•••
STRAWBERRY AND VANILLA GOLD PENDANT WITH 5.29 CTS. T.W. CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA DIAMONDS AND 4.14 CTS. T.W. FOREST GREEN TSAVORITE, $18,698, LEVIAN.COM; BLACK ENAMEL HAND GEMSTONE SPRAY BROOCH IN 18K YELLOW GOLD WITH MOONSTONE, RUBY, EMERALD, SAPPHIRE, AND DIAMONDS, CIRCA 1950S, OSCAR HEYMAN
•••
“My earliest memories of JCK come from my childhood. My father would bring home from work all of his industry reading to do in the evening. As a youngster, I recall browsing JCK; I would always check the pages he folded down the corners on to see what caught his eye. My son Andrew recently joined the business, and I’m confident he will also rely upon JCK as the industry bible.”
“Wow! One hundred fifty years is such an accomplishment. Over the years, JCK magazine has established itself as a place where businesses can go to learn the latest information on all the happenings around our industry. It’s so important to have a reliable resource, someone you can count on to help grow your business and help you succeed.” —MATT STULLER, founder and CEO, Stuller
••• “In 1912, when Oscar Heyman & Brothers was founded, it was reported in JCK, because JCK was the bible of the industry. JCK was a part of the foundation of the American jewelry industry.”
•••
“I can go over to my bookshelf and pull out copies of JCK from 20 and 30 years ago. I always hung on to the magazines and used the information in them over and over. JCK ’s always been a publication I admire filled with people I admire.” —DOUG HUCKER, CEO, American Gem Trade Association
—TOM HEYMAN, partner, Oscar Heyman
—HANK SIEGEL, president, Hamilton Jewelers
•••
“Getting to know and become friends with amazing talents such as David Yurman, Temple St. Clair, Stephen Webster, Alex Šepkus, Monica Rich Kosann, Paul Morelli, Elena Votsi, Nak Armstrong, Bibi van der Velden, and so many others has been one of the greatest treats of my life. JCK has been crucial to our industry. It’s a treat to read the articles and get to know the talented artists that bring so much to our industry. I never miss a page.”
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—MARIE HELENE REINHOLD, president, Reinhold Jewelers
12/17/18 12:26 PM
80 •••
—STUART ROBERTSON, vice president, Gemworld International
••• “Every time I see a client’s piece showcased in the pages of JCK magazine, it’s still as thrilling and rewarding today as it was the first time, years ago. In this era of pay-to-play media coverage, JCK bucks that trend. It gives exposure to young up-and-comers, tried-andtrue veterans, and everyone in between.” —REBECCA MOSKAL, founder, Communiqué
•••
“Over time, we have seen the magazine grow. The articles have become more and more interesting, the quality of photography has drastically improved, and the outreach has expanded. We have been honored to be a part of it for many years.” —TAMARA RAHAMINOV and AMIR GOLDFINER, cofounders, Rahaminov Diamonds
••• “I’ve been involved in the jewelry industry since 1980, and I’ve seen major changes during that time: the shift in jewelry manufacturing from the U.S., primarily in New York, to Asia, the shift in diamond cutting and polishing from Antwerp to Israel to India, a major reduction in brick-and-mortar jewelry and department stores. The most meaningful change I see currently is the transition to online selling and the introduction of lab-grown diamonds.” —TERRY BURMAN, former CEO, Signet Jewelers
“JCK magazine has become far more beautiful and visually appealing—like a Vogue for jewelry, while still publishing vital business information, analysis, and advice. JCK has also been a very important supporter of the work of JSA to keep the industry safe. The magazine has spread the message of security advice to a very large and important audience.”
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“Siegelson and JCK have both reinvented themselves over the past century. We have long relied on the back issues of Jewelers’ Circular in our research of important historical jewels. In particular, we have a rare Black, Starr & Frost gem-set Tree of Knowledge clock that we know was exhibited at the 1939 World’s Fair because of a picture in the June 1939 Jewelers’ Circular-Keystone.” —LEE SIEGELSON, gem and jewelry dealer, Siegelson
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“I’ve been in the industry since 1985. I was a banker that took a leave of absence to run my friend’s jewelry store. I quickly realized I had no idea what the jewelry business was all about. I came across a library of jewelry magazines in his office: Jewelers’ Circular-Keystone. I studied what the industry experts had to say. It got me through the first holiday season with a bang, and I never went back to the banking world.” —CATHY CALHOUN, owner, Calhoun Jewelers
—JOHN J. KENNEDY, president, Jewelers’ Security Alliance
••• “I count on JCK to keep me up to date on all the important news in the jewelry industry. I read the newsletter daily. I peruse the magazine to get a pulse on product trends or to understand what’s happening in different geographies. We’ve been working with JCK for over a decade at this point.” —BETH GERSTEIN, cofounder and CEO, Brilliant Earth
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ART DECO GEM-SET AND MOTHER-OF-PEARL TREE OF KNOWLEDGE CLOCK BY PIERRE GRAVOIN FOR BLACK, STARR & FROST, CIRCA 1930, MOSAIC BY VLADIMIR MAKOVSKY (COURTESY OF SIEGELSON)
“Today, the industry seems to be increasingly surrendering its responsibility for product knowledge to third parties such as labs and nonindustry certification firms. But it also raises the question of what we are actually selling to consumers today— gems or paper?”
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“JCK has been a longtime and consistent supporter of our brand, and it’s such a great resource for sharing news with both our industry partners and our consumers. JCK has set the ‘gold standard’ for reporting on the creativity of our industry, and we look forward to the next 150 years together!” —DAVID YURMAN, cofounder and CEO, David Yurman
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“I’ve seen trends go from minimalism and few independent designers in the 1990s to the maximalism of today, and the field full of all kinds of design talent. When I began, there was literally no internet, e-commerce, or Instagram. People are much savvier about jewelry history and the marketplace today. They know what’s out there.”
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“Blockchain, sustainability, lab-grown diamonds, digital, e-commerce—I see them all as opportunities for the industry to grow and evolve. They provide ways for us to tell new stories. Jewelry brands and retailers today should be so excited about the future.” —BEN SMITHEE, founder and CEO, The Smithee Group
—MARION FASEL, author and founder, TheAdventurine.com
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DANDELION DIAMOND PUFF PIN WITH 0.66 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS IN 18K GOLD AND ENAMEL, $10,500, DANDELION PIN IN 18K BLOOMED GOLD AND ENAMEL, $7,400; McTEIGUE & McCLELLAND; 800-956-2826; MC2JEWELS.COM
••• “My first impression of the magazine was that it was a one-stop shop: business information, the latest in product design and trends, and industry news. Over the years, I’ve found that JCK also looks to the future, helping the industry determine what’s going to happen next, how it will affect the business, and what companies can do or need to do to stay competitive.” —JENNY LUKER, president, Platinum Guild International USA
“When I joined the industry 32 years ago, it was going through a major change. The chain of distribution was changing, eliminating the wholesaler so that the wholesaler either disappeared or became a manufacturer. Manufacturing was starting to go overseas, and overseas companies were opening and buying companies here. All of these changes affected the industry, but probably not as much as the changing lifestyles and buying patterns of American consumers.” —PHYLLIS BERGMAN, former CEO, Mercury Ring
•••
“For 150 years, JCK has played a critical role in sharing news, educating, and challenging our industry. There is tremendous value in having an outside voice asking the important questions, capturing the ever-changing business, and bringing the community together. Looking through our archives, we find the big moments in our company’s history captured in JCK articles.”
••• “I started out 38 years ago as a diamond broker, working on the trading floors of the Diamond Trade Association and the Diamond Dealers Club. JCK had already been in existence for several decades when my great-grandfather founded McTeigue & Co. in 1895. Oftentimes…I would learn about the four generations of my family in the pages of JCK.” —WALTER McTEIGUE, president, McTeigue & McClelland
—LISA BRIDGE, president, Ben Bridge Jeweler, Seattle
•••
“One favorite memory from my time at JCK was the 1992 launch of the inaugural JCK show, then called Jewelry ’92. At that time, the magazine and show were one. When [former JCK editor-in-chief] George Holmes first announced at an editorial staff meeting that the new show was going to be in Las Vegas, I exclaimed, ‘But there’s no jewelry manufacturing in Las Vegas!’ He replied, ‘There isn’t any in Basel, Switzerland, either.’ Touché.” —HEDDA SCHUPAK, jewelry industry analyst and former JCK editor-in-chief
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•••
“I’ve been in the industry for four decades, and some of the most apparent changes in the industry incorporate the use of technology. Blockchain may bring the necessary traceability. Laboratory-grown diamonds are now a commercially viable product. Branding of jewelry and gemstones has become a strong and sustainable trend, and diamond grading reports enable the global trading of diamonds online.” —SUSAN M. JACQUES, president and CEO, GIA
12/17/18 12:26 PM
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REFRESH YOURSELF IS YOUR LOGO TIRED? DOES YOUR W E B S I T E L O O K D AT E D ? I S I T T I M E TO U P D AT E Y O U R B U S I N E S S W I T H A M O R E
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CONTEMPORARY LOOK AND FEEL? HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO REINVENTING YOUR BRAND.
By Martha C. White
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83 NEW YEAR, NEW YOU the m otto you’re embracing in 2019? Reinvention can breathe new life into a brand identity, but it’s not to be undertaken lightly, especially in the fine jewelry space, where the weight of tradition can keep owners stuck in a rut. At the same time, change simply for its own sake isn’t enough. Retailers who have been there and branding experts who have worked with inventing and reinventing businesses inside and out (and online and off) have the advice you need.
MODERNIZE WITH RESTRAINT
NO. 3 & NOW OR NEVER: DAVID FENTON; REACH FOR THE BRIGHTEST STAR: NICK McGINN; EARRINGS: BALL & ALBANESE; NECKLACES: NICOLE LAMOTTE; COLOR SWATCHES WITH HANDS: ORBON ALIJA/E+/GETTY; COLOR GUIDE: VERESOVICH/ISTOCK/GETTY
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Brand awareness: 1. Greenwich St. Jewelers’ updated look, from packaging to storefront; 2. a playful display at Jaimie Geller Jewelry in Pacific Palisades, Calif.; 3. the new artfully slashed business cards and logo at Cut Fine Jewelers; 4. jewelry-centric inspo at Nashville’s Consider the Wldflwrs; 5. exterior and interior signage at No. 3 in San Francisco; 6. earrings on a bright backdrop at Katie Diamond Jewelry in Ridgewood, N.J.
Jennifer Gandia, co-owner of Greenwich St. Jewelers in New York City, embarked on a rebranding in 2016 to coincide with the retailer’s 40th anniversary. The effort “gave us an opportunity to look at all of the ways we were representing ourselves in public spaces, which was a really valuable exercise,” she says. Some rebranding initiatives involve overhauling logos, websites, and ads; others take it a step further. For Gandia, creating a simple, modern-feeling logo featuring the brand name in all capital letters; choosing a new brand color combination—a custom dark blue with rose gold—that appears in-store, online, and on the store’s new boxes and bags; and redesigning the website were part of a holistic refresh that also included a name change. By adding “St.” to the original name (Greenwich Jewelers), Gandia and her sister, co-owner Christina Gandia Gambale, were nodding to the business’ roots. Their parents, Carl and Milly, opened the shop in 1976 on Greenwich Street; they moved it to Trinity Street in the Financial District after the 9/11 attacks damaged the structure of their building. “Our goal was to have all of the branding really reflect where the business was then, but also where we wanted to see it go,” Jennifer Gandia says.
NAME CHANGES: PROCEED WITH CAUTION “Names are one of the hardest parts of branding,” says Julie Cottineau, founder and CEO of New York City consulting firm BrandTwist. Some of the challenges are logistical. “It’s really hard to find an available trademark and URL,” Cottineau says. Go into your search with an open mind, but don’t try to choose a new name by committee, and don’t rush into taking such a big step. You don’t want to confuse customers, or worse. “I’ve seen clients say we’re going to hold a contest or name it after a Greek god—it shouldn’t be a democracy,” she warns. “Then
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you’ll end up with a name everybody can live with, but not a name anybody loves.” You also need to make sure people can still find you—particularly online. Changing a name could have implications for your search engine ranking. Since a key factor in search algorithms is a site’s traffic history, rebuilding your website under an entirely new URL could take that away. Greenwich St.’s Gandia says keeping URLs for both names proved to be the solution: “Ultimately we had to keep the original domain. For that reason we have our new domain pointing to the old domain.”
THINK OUTSIDE THE (JEWELRY) BOX Don’t limit yourself to the jewelry sphere or even the luxury retail category in your search for inspiration, Cottineau advises. “Stop worrying about your competition. Look at brands you really admire outside of your category,” she says. “The further away you can get from luxury jewelry, the better for inspiration.” For one jeweler, the creative spark was an iconic landmark. In November, Las Vegas– based LV Luxury Holdings added LV Luxury Jewelers to its portfolio of brands. Vice president Christine Sidoris says LV Luxury Holdings’ executive team didn’t consult with a branding agency, but instead brainstormed in-house to develop the new logo, an angular diamond shape with two rounded corners. “For the shape of the logo, we thought it looks visually like the shape of the ‘Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas’ sign,” Sidoris says. “We took that shape to make it really our sign, our logo.” The shape also riffs on the idea of a diamond—referencing the parent company’s logo of a gem-cut diamond without imitating it. Matthew Patton, owner of Cut Fine Jewelers in Baton Rouge, La., took inspiration from Apple’s iconic packaging. “I’m 32—I don’t have the same mentality as someone who’s been doing this for 50 years,” he says. “When you buy a new iPhone or a new MacBook, isn’t part of the experience the sleek, sexy packaging it came in?” Patton takes pride in Cut’s distinctive silver boxes, and even its award-winning business cards stand out, with double-thickness card stock and an eye-catching cutoff logo. “The things we hope people will keep and retain are our business cards and our boxes,” Patton says.
PICK VERSATILE FONTS AND COLORS Whether you work with a branding agency (which many retailers who plunge into a full brand overhaul do) or go it alone, give careful
consideration to colors and typefaces. Retailers today need to choose a look that will read equally well on a store window or awning and on a thumbnail image on a social media app. When it comes to color, branding experts recommend picking just one or two, and avoiding ubiquitous trendy hues (which tend to look dated sooner). Gandia, for example, bridged classic and modern with Greenwich St.’s dark blue and rose gold combo. “We wanted something that reflected a sort of downtown sensibility that didn’t feel too stodgy,” she says. Ellen Fruchtman, president of Fruchtman Marketing in Toledo, Ohio, recommends printing out the typeface you want to use in your color of choice and putting it across the room so you can view it from a distance. “Do you do a lot of billboard or print? You want to make sure the typeface can transfer. Very thin or script-y fonts can be difficult to read,” she says, and some colors offer better readability than others. Likewise, Fruchtman says, very detailed logos might not render well when shrunk down, a serious consideration given that many customers might be introduced to your brand via a mobile device or social media app. For this reason, retailers like Gandia and Patton say their branding toolboxes include simplified versions of their logos that can be utilized for small or more low-key spaces, or in situations where print quality might be an issue.
KEEP A CONSISTENT THEME “If you’re rebranding, you’re rebranding everything—you’re not just slapping on a new logo,” Fruchtman says. “There should be a new look and feel for everything from your marketing to your interiors to how your cases are displayed.” When Patton developed his branding in conjunction with a move to a retail storefront from a referrals-based business a few years ago, he deliberated over every detail. His brand’s signature deep shade of yellow, for instance, is incorporated in the logo (a stylized rendering of the word cut with a slash through it), which appears on gift packaging and on the store website and is stitched on staffers’ shirts. Having every element of the Cut Fine Jewelers brand look similar is deliberate. “It’s basically just continuing to reinforce that brand message,” Patton says. “Whenever you look at something from us, we have this particular style and always putting cut in there is continuing to reinforce that brand every single time. If anything is going to be remembered, it’s going to be our name.”
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FOUR MONTHS AND
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AND LUXURY SHOWS RETURN TO THEIR ORIGINAL HOME
AT THE SANDS. HERE’S WHAT ORGANIZERS ARE DOING TO ENSURE A SMOOTH
By Rob Bates
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Above: JIS Exchange will fill the Lido ballroom (plus a few others) at the Venetian May 30–June 3.
A
FUNNY THING HAPPENED after JCK Las Vegas completed its 2016 show at Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino. After five years, attendees had adapted to JCK’s new home at Mandalay, but never quite embraced it. And many felt surprisingly nostalgic for the show’s original home: the Sands Expo and Convention Center. Jewelers missed being at the northern end of The Strip, near the heart of the action, with its increased selection of restaurants, shops, and hotels. They liked how the Sands confined the show to two easy-to-navigate floors, rather than Mandalay’s endless sprawl. And so in 2016 JCK Las Vegas and its sister show, Luxury, which in 2009 had jolted the industry by announcing they were leaving the Sands, jolted it again by declaring they were moving back in 2019. Sarin Bachmann, event vice president for the JCK and Luxury shows, says the reason was simple: People wanted it. “We had both exhibiting and retail customers saying they wanted to go back,” she says. “It’s a huge, huge investment for our company. But we knew it was the right answer. And we have had unwavering support of the decision since we announced it.”
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Right: the lavish Italian-inspired lobby of the Venetian, which also offers gondola rides (top, inset)
This spring, JCK Las Vegas and Luxury will have their first shows back at the Sands, and the adjacent Venetian a n d Pa l a z z o h o t e l s . Granted, a lot has happened since they packed their bags for the other end of The Strip. While the shows are returning to their old venue, this is not the old Sands. In 2013, the convention center underwent a $35 million renovation. Attendees no longer have to exit the shows—or slip through the back stairs—to move from one level to another. The escalators are now located within the show walls, which will make traveling between floors a lot easier. The lobbies and bathrooms have been renovated (and everyone agrees the bathrooms needed it). The lights are brighter. The air-conditioning works better. The lower level no longer betrays its origin as a garage. The Sands is even greener, becoming the first meeting place to hit an industry environmental benchmark. At the Sands, organizers of JCK Las Vegas hope for an experience that will be both comfortably familiar
and, at the same time, refreshingly updated. While the show is in some ways returning to the tried-andtrue, it’s also embracing the new and different. With everyone talking about reinvention, organizer Reed Exhibitions has been rethinking and reconceptualizing what a jewelry show should be. “We are using this move as an opportunity to really make changes,” says Bachmann. “We want to make it more modern, more digital. We are changing the look and feel. I ran Luxury for years; I wanted to bring the upgraded look of Luxury to the JCK show. We will have park benches along the aisles, and some greenery, and street signs. We are also looking to do more experiential things on the show floor. Just like it’s important right now for retail stores to be experiential to draw
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Left: the JCK show’s home base—the new and improved Sands Expo; above: the Dorsey bar (sure to be a popular nightly gathering spot); right: the Palazzo Waterfall Atrium, just outside the Venetian’s Grand Canal Shoppes
the customers in, we want to lead the charge in that.” Of course, moving a show this size is a monumental task—one that was set in motion immediately after the 2016 announcement. Among the early challenges: securing the traditional Friday-to-Monday date pattern. After months of negotiations, organizers landed the dates they wanted: JCK Las Vegas will take place from Friday, May 31, to Monday, June 3, and Luxury from Wednesday, May 29, to Monday, June 3. The biggest task—one that’s ongoing—is setting up the floor plan. While the macro show map has been completed, organizers expect to keep fiddling with the different components up until showtime. “It’s a jigsaw puzzle,” Bachmann says. “The show map never finalizes. It’s always changing.” When putting together the new fair, organizers didn’t feel that they were bound by what it used to be like at the Sands. “We would look back to the past for reference,” Bachmann says. “We weren’t making decisions based on what we did in the past, because so many things had changed. “The Design Center is where it was,” she adds. “We have a Fifth Avenue like we did before. So we took the pieces that made sense.” As it has been for the past several years, the show will be split into neighborhoods. Even the sign-wielding “Ask Me” folks will make the move, to help attendees acclimate to their new (old) digs. “We want everyone to find what they want,” says
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Reed Exhibitions’ special events and conference director Kate Youngstrom (née Nellis). “There is no benefit to us in people just wandering around.” But there will be also a slew of changes. They i nclude a revamped Global Gemstone neighborhood, organized in conjunction with the International Colored Gemstone Association; a security pavilion with related education sessions, in partnership with the Jewelers’ Security Alliance; and a new “retail experience center” that will give jewelers c utting-edge takeaways. In-show advertising has become digital, rather than the traditional hanging banners and signs. Even education has been rethought: In addition to the standard 45-minute-plus sessions, the show will also offer learning in zippier 20- to 30-minute chunks. Still, attendees will find much that is the same, including the social events. The show has found a home for all the traditional big events—including Jewelers for Children’s annual gala, the Diamond Empowerment Fund dinner, and the Rapaport Breakfast. “We want to make sure that the industry has everything it needs under one roof,” Bachmann says. A lot of organizers’ time is spent on things that attendees may not notice but make a difference—like the construction of show booths. Youngstrom has a replica of a booth in her office; the show team is constantly examining it from different angles—even with the lights off—to see how to best showcase jewelry. Overall, the new look “will be modern and simple
and clean,” Bachmann says. “We’re going to take that from our new logo, down to the show floor.” The show will also be smaller, as the Sands has less space than Mandalay Bay. “That’s a good thing, in a way,” Bachmann says. “With a smaller footprint, it will be easier to navigate.” The wait list has even returned, just like in the old days. Like every industry, the trade-show business has faced its share of challenges lately, with Baselworld’s travails making worldwide headlines. (The Swiss fair lost a number of key exhibitors over the past year; the latest edition was down to less than half its 2017 size.) Some are wondering if large-scale gatherings still have a place in our increasingly digital world. And yet considering the nature of jewelry and the jewelry industry itself, Youngstrom feels there will always be a need for a central meeting place. “I’m a firm believer in face-to-face,” she says. “There is no replacement for meeting someone and having a cocktail with them and realizing you’re connected. There is no replacement for going past a showcase and seeing product that you have never seen. There is no replacement for having a four-hour conversation with your vendor and finding out all about them. “This industry is dominated by passionate people who like to be involved, they like to talk, they like to meet each other,” she adds. “We are a passionate social industry and that comes through in our show, and that is what we are here to represent.”
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE
the vault FAIRY LIGHT Bos says one of the challenges
RARE BIRD “The Brothers Grimm universe is
in fabricating the Clair de Lune was creating a clip that was truly lightweight—a hurdle the atelier toppled by deploying an openwork metal technique. And to ensure that the smokyhued pearls moved beautifully, the workshop utilized atypical threading methods. “The necklace must remain flexible and fluid,” says the CEO. “It must be sturdy but not heavy.”
very different from the previous tales the maison has explored,” Bos says. (Among the house’s varied inspirations: Noah’s Ark and the French fairy tale Peau d’Âne.) Despite this, he adds, the collection as a whole ably “reflects Van Cleef & Arpels’ legacy and themes of enchanted nature, fantastical journeys, and magical characters.”
MOONRISE KINGDOM
CLAIR SUPPLY The convertible long
necklace—it can be broken into two shorter necklaces, and its bejeweled pendant can be worn as a brooch—features a 29.63 ct. sugarloaf-cut Sri Lankan purple sapphire center stone, 344 round blue sapphires (16.79 cts. t.w.), 28 gray cultured pearls, and 1,121 round diamonds (19.56 cts. t.w.). It’s crafted in 18k white, yellow, and pink gold.
FOUR BROTHERS GRIMM fairy tales inspired Van Cleef & Arpels’ latest haute joaillerie collection. The Clair de Lune necklace, a stunning feat of ornate craftsmanship, is designed to evoke the night sky in “The Golden Bird,” a story of a gardener’s pursuit of, well, a golden bird. Nicolas Bos, global president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, says the venerable atelier “has always been imbued with poetry and dreams—legends and fairy tales have been a powerful source of inspiration for the maison.” —EMILI VESILIND
JCKONLINE.COM
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the vault
DIAMONDS
90
CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION
MOTION PICTURE WE’VE SEEN DIAMONDS in movable settings before, but never quite like this. French jewelry atelier Marie Mas, founded by designer Marie Cabirou, innovated a technique in which gemstones set back-to-back rotate forward and back—like dominoes on a hinge—switching color as they flip. Her latest collection, Swinging Stones, builds on this idea, but incorporates diamonds for the first time. The series includes exquisite high jewelry pieces and less blingy “daily wear” pieces that feature trails of multicolored tourmalines reversing to icy white diamonds. “I’m looking for movement and poetry in the mechanism’s complexity,” says Cabirou, a former jewelry designer for Christian Dior Couture. “My jewelry comes alive when it’s worn.” —EMILI VESILIND
18k rose gold Swinging Diamond Pampille ring with 0.17 ct. t.w. diamonds reversing to multicolored tourmalines; $3,700
Dancing Diamond Earrings S in 18k rose gold with 0.58 ct. t.w. diamonds reversing to multicolored tourmalines; $4,875; Marie Mas; contact@ mariemas.com; mariemas.com
HOT STOCK TIP
INTO THE WOOD
Italian jewelry brand Vendorafa’s latest collection pairs bloodwood sourced in Central America with precious metals and diamonds. The showstopping Satine bloodwood cuff layers a crosshatch of undulating rose, yellow, or white gold shimmering with brown diamonds across a single swoop of smooth, rosy-hued wood. The juxtaposition of earthiness and opulence recalls important (and utterly dazzling) cuff designs from the 1960s and ’70s. —EV
Dancing Diamond Open Ring S in 18k rose gold with 0.37 ct. t.w. diamonds reversing to multicolored tourmalines; $4,400
Satine bloodwood cuff in wood, 14k rose gold, and diamonds; $10,650; vendorafa.net
COUNTESS LUANN’S NEW LINE! SEE jckonline.com/topics/diamonds FOR THAT AND MORE.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
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JCKONLINE.COM
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The Vault
GOLD
TREND GAME
SAY ANYTHING
Protect JW Original pendant in 14k gold plate; $278; Jane Winchester; info@ janewinchester.com; janewinchester.com
AS SELF-PURCHASING women have become a potent force in the jewelry market, we’ve seen a proliferation of collections that speak to female empowerment and well-being. This season, a handful of fine jewelry brands have created styles bearing inspirational words designed to bolster the spirit. Zoë Chicco’s new Mantra collection comprises coins engraved with phrases such as I Can and I Will and Find a Way or Make One; Eden Presley added to her customizable Mantra series with bracelets that spell out (in diamonds!) sentiments including Have Courage, Be Kind; while designer Jane Winchester’s signature coin pendants feature inscriptions such as Strong and Gardez Bien (French for Guard Well )—reminders, she says, “of your own strength and the positive ways you protect yourself and those you love.” —EMILI VESILIND
HOT STOCK TIP
Small Font Mantra bracelet in 14k gold with diamonds; $5,600; Eden Presley; sales@ edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com
Mantra medium charm bracelet in 14k yellow gold; $955; Zoë Chicco; 213-489-1226; zoechicco.com
MEXICAN TWIST Montreal-based jewelry designer Sofia Ajram, founder of the Sofia Zakia collection,
designed the 14k gold With All Love ring as “an homage to Frida Kahlo’s romantic and vibrant body of work,” she says. The whimsical ring, which would make a supersweet wedding or commitment band, features a tiny hand adorned with a diamond cuff holding a ribbon—a symbol of eternal love. —EV 14k yellow gold ring with diamonds; $930; sofiazakia.com
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LISA SOTILIS’ SCULPTURAL JEWELS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
12/17/18 12:45 PM
A R E YO U TA K I N G TH E STE PS N E C ES S A RY F O R PATRIO T A CT– A M L C O M PL I A N C E ?
WE’ L L H E L P YO U K E E P Y OU R B A L A N CE . Dealers are required by federal law (and often at your bank’s request) to implement a fully compliant anti-money laundering program. JVC’s AML–Patriot Act Compliance Kit helps businesses develop an anti-money laundering program and policy that will ensure company compliance with government requirements. And if you’re interested in one-on-one assistance, JVC attorneys are available to design and develop a compliant program specific to your needs. For the Kit or to talk to one of our attorneys, call 212.997.2002 or visit jvclegal.org.
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THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS
Show biz
Diamond and 18k gold rings with green tourmaline, mint tourmaline, and aquamarine, $4,840– $6,820; Audrius Krulis; info@ audriuskrulis.com; audriuskrulis.com
DIVINE DESIGN
For the sixth straight year, JCK Tucson is poised to take the desert by storm
F
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
ROM FEB. 6 TO 9, the J.W. Marriott Starr Pass Resort & Spa will host the sixth annual edition of the JCK Tucson show, now firmly established as the sole designer-led fine jewelry event to take place in Tucson during gem week. When JCK Tucson vice president Katie Dominesey took over the management of the show on behalf of Reed Exhibitions in 2015, she was thrilled to see the Arizona event had a handful of well-known designers on its roster (from Southern California’s Alishan to Peter Schmid of Konstanz, Germany–based Atelier Zobel), but, she recalls, they were too often overshadowed by “a lot of mass manufacturers selling a lot of semi-mounts.” As she set about refashioning the show into a designer-led experience, starting in 2016, she was determined to create an environment that inspired a sense of discovery, yet lacked the formality so typical of shows on the jewelry calendar.
“We wanted to make sure there was a certain look to the show, but we didn’t want it to be stuffy,” Dominesey says. “We surveyed the retailers and asked them what they wanted, and overwhelmingly they wanted to do business in a non-pressure environment.” That philosophy will be on full display this year, thanks partly to the show’s commitment to nurturing designer talent. In addition to the international section that debuted last year (with brands like London’s The Rock Hound), JCK Tucson will showcase domestic artists such as Sarah Graham, Petra Class, and Audrius Krulis as well as Denver’s John Atencio, who’s returning for an encore. Through a partnership with the Women’s Jewelry Association, JCK Tucson has space in the Arizona ballroom for eight designers new to the trade show scene. But that’s not all that’s new. “We have four lab-grown diamond companies in the Tucson ballroom,” Dominesey says. “I wouldn’t have predicted that.”
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SHOW BIZ
BE T Earrings with carnelian and blue quartz in 14k gold– plated brass; $360; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com
MIAMI NICE
The supersized JIS October show returned to South Beach. Good times ensued.
T BY EMILI VESILIND
HE MIAMI BEACH Convention Center wasn’t entirely finished; small construction projects were still ongoing. But the sprawling venue, wrapping up a full renovation after incurring major damage during the 2017 hurricane season, proved an elegant backdrop to the Jewelers International Showcase October show from Oct. 19 to 22. It wasn’t just the setting—or even the intoxicating new-carpet smell!— that made the fair feel decidedly elevated. The debut of JIS’ partnership with the Centurion South Beach show brought in nearly 100 high-end brands new to JIS. That also made the show
larger: There were 30 percent more vendors in 2018 than in 2017, according to organizer Reed Exhibitions. Then again, everything about the 103,000-square-foot show felt vaguely supersized. The Italian pavilion was 50 percent larger, and the Sterling Silver and Affordable Fashion categories splintered into two separate pavilions because they’d added so many vendors. Additionally, the Equipment, Technology, and Services vendors were gathered into JIS’ first-ever ETS pavilion (much like the one at JCK Las Vegas). Trends included chunky chains (Cristina Sabatini offered hefty silver curb-link versions); carved and smooth beads (Bounkit used them artfully in colorful earrings and necklaces); and delicate stacking pieces, from diamond tennis bracelets (found in spades at Facet Barcelona) to gemstone rings (Italy’s Brosway had trays of them). Attendance was up by 18 percent from October 2017, according to Jordan Tuchband, industry vice president of JIS, who attributes the growth in part to its timing on the international jewelry buying schedule. In short, as buying becomes more immediate for jewelry retailers, JIS’ preholiday slot becomes a more alluring option. Still, the show’s vetting process for retailers, Tuchband adds, is fairly rigid. “We’ve always had a quality-overquantity attitude toward attendance. You may not have shoulder-to-shoulder nightclub aisles, but you can be relatively confident the people walking those aisles are there to do business.” JCKONLINE.COM
NEW LOOK | NEW VENUE | NEW EXPERIENCE
WEDNESDAY, MAY 29 –
THURSDAY, MAY 30 –
THURSDAY, MAY 30 –
FRIDAY, MAY 31 –
MONDAY, JUNE 3, 2019
MONDAY, JUNE 3, 2019
MONDAY, JUNE 3, 2019
MONDAY, JUNE 3, 2019
BY INVITATION ONLY MAY 29 – 30
SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN
SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN
SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN
THE VENETIAN
ALL UNDER ONE ROOF SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS
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@JCKEVENTS
#JCKLASVEGAS
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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY
TOOL TIME becoming standard. Gotz cites the cute hashtag #takeovertuesday—the practice of organizing takeovers on Tuesdays—as a good way for newbies to get in on the Insta-trend.
Y
JOSE LUIS PELAEZ INC./BLEND IMAGES/GETTY
FEED FRENZY Everything you need to know about plotting a takeover that nets both you and your guest Instagrammer more likes and followers BY EMILI VESILIND
DUE DILIGENCE
OU’VE SEEN THE enthusiastic posts on Instagram with their gleeful announcements: “We’re being taken over! By someone really interesting! Stay tuned!” Instagram takeovers—the practice of giving a feed over entirely to a person or group so they can create and post content for a defined period of time— have been around for years. And for good reason. When executed well, takeovers can boost the followings of both feeds, whip up consumer enthusiasm and loyalty through association, and even help a business access an untapped consumer demographic. While takeovers can look like casual affairs, their success comes down to careful planning. We asked Julie L. Gotz, chief marketing officer for Freshley Media, a multimedia marketing firm for independent jewelry retailers based in Charleston, S.C., to share her top tips for deploying a takeover with teeth.
GOAL SETTING A takeover should be timed to something you want to promote or align your business with. “You don’t want to do a takeover just because it sounds cool—you want a clear goal going in,” Gotz says. If the goal is to bring awareness to a new brand in your store, for example, ask the brand’s designer to do a takeover in advance of a trunk show.
TAKEOVER ARTIST When tapping guest Instagrammers, consider not only how many followers they have, but also who those followers are. “The main goal of a takeover is usually to get followers,” Gotz says. “Whoever your guest poster will be, you want to make sure their posts will expose your brand to a different audience.”
TIME TRIALS You can have someone take over your feed for a single hour or for several days. But single-day takeovers are
Gotz says a formal contract between the company and guest Instagrammers usually isn’t necessary, but stresses the importance of creating a document that sets clear parameters and relays pertinent details regarding what you expect from the guest poster. That document should include how often you expect him or her to post, how you want posts hashtagged (come up with a proprietary hashtag for your takeovers), and notes on formatting posts and stories. You should stipulate, for example, the way all guest posts are to begin (e.g., “It’s Liam here”).
LETTING GO Kick off any takeover with a well- designed announcement that runs on all your social channels the day or night before the takeover. Make sure your takeover artist posts the graphic to his or her feed, too. Then let go of the reins. Completely. Great takeovers are surprising and energetic—qualities that wither under micromanagement. “Trying to control a takeover’s every nuance goes against the spirit of takeovers,” Gotz says. “And I get it, it can be really scary letting go of your content. But that’s where the preplanning comes in—to let everyone know what’s expected of them.”
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Tool Time
THE GOODS
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The MyKronoz ZeTime watch syncs to digital calendars and can be set up with custom reminders.
WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE
MYKRONOZ ZETIME Swiss smartwatch brand MyKronoz raised upwards of $8 million through more than 40,000 backers on Kickstarter and other funding websites to manufacture the ZeTime hybrid smartwatch, which it claims is the world’s first smartwatch to combine a touch-screen display with mechanical watch hands. The sporty timepiece is packed with other bells and whistles, too, including text and call notifications, activity (and non-activity) alerts, a heart rate monitor, pedometer, music control, and your choice of dapper watch faces. —EV
What we liked: The hybrid timepiece looks like an analog watch—but when receiving digital notifications, its mechanical hands move out of the way (into a straight horizontal line) so you can read texts and other alerts unobscured.
What we didn’t like: The device is slim—which is nice—but it’s also heavy. The stainless steel bezel weighs roughly twice as much as Apple’s stainless steel Series 3 watch.
Best feature: ZeTime’s analog movement boasts a 30-day battery life, which means the watch shows you the time even when its digital bits are “off.” No shaking, tapping, or wrist-flicking required. ($199; mykronoz.com)
APP CHAT
The JE503C/A connects directly to a PC or printer—no additional software download required.
ZELLE Need to make payments directly from your bank account to a
vendor’s bank account? Zelle—a payment service that’s already embedded in some major banks’ mobile apps—is also an easy-touse freestanding app that transfers money between banks in just a few minutes. Signing up is a cinch; you just attach your bank debit card to the system. And when it’s time to make a payment, you simply key in the amount, type in the email address or mobile phone number of your recipient, and hit “send.” Booyah! (Free; zellepay.com) —EV
Zelle facilitated $32 billion in payments in the third quarter of 2018.
SUPPLY IN DEMAND
METTLER TOLEDO JE503C/A CARAT SCALE WHEN IT COMES to weighing diamonds, nothing less than absolute recision makes the cut. If you’re looking to upgrade your precision scale, take a p look at Mettler’s legal-for-trade scale from Gesswein, which features an easy-toread display and seven built-in applications. Made exclusively for the jewelry industry, the Swiss-made scale has a 505 ct. capacity and is accurate to 0.001 ct. It also weighs in grams, kilograms, milligrams, pounds, troy ounces, avoirdupois ounces, grain, and dwt (pennyweight), making it a one-stop scale for all your precious metals and gemstones. ($1,425; gesswein.com) —EV JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
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BLUE NILE OPENS NEW CUSTOMER SERVICE CENTER! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.
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Arch Crown Inc. Phillip Gavriel 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: phillipgavriel.com Phillip Gavriel creates fine jewelry for the modern woman. Check out the newly launched additions to his best-selling Popcorn collection, including this stunning 14k gold and diamond tally cuff bangle. MSRP: $1,750
Thorsten 404 E. First St., Suite 1204 Long Beach, CA 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings support@thorstenrings.com Website: thorstenrings.com Thorsten now has new colored versions of the classic Damascus steel ring. Stand out with something bold, unique, and modern. Becoming a Thorsten retailer is easy: Visit thorstenrings.com or call 888-209-4757 for more details.
Midas Chain 151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com Our 14k gold rolo bracelet features an antique coin charm. Midas Chain is rolling out this season’s new styles with its coveted rolo bracelets. We have turned it up a notch by adding our chunky gold coin charm, making a statement as it speaks for itself. MSRP: $949
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460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Promote Your Brand Name on Custom Tags and Labels! As a merchandising aid or advertising vehicle, custom tags and labels communicate your store’s unique identity. Let the recipient know where the gift came from. Once out of the store, Arch Crown tags and labels act as your most cost-effective advertising medium.
Le Vian® Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Le Vian® Blackberry and Vanilla are red-carpet favorites. Discover 2019 styles, including this floral ring and earrings with Vanilla Diamonds® baguettes and chic Blackberry Diamonds®. View the Le Vian collections at Centurion and CBG.
Gabriel & Co. 545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: lverona@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Gabriel & Co.’s unique diamond engagement rings and bridal sets capture the true love and excitement of your journey towards matrimony. They will forever be a symbol of your commitment to your special someone. (Products: ER12664R4W44JJ, BG4200W84JJ, EG13531W84JJ).
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Blue Ray Diamonds 45440 Ford Road Canton, MI 48187 Tel: 734-459-8664 Fax: 734-459-8617 Email: takess@aol.com Website: blueraydiamonds.com Our invention is called the Super Halo. We have enhanced the halo and solitaire jewelry with diamonds. In this innovative design, the center diamond/stone sits in a shimmering pool of diamonds.
Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere, all made in the USA. This beautiful 14k cross with 0.05pts diamonds is available in yellow, white, and rose gold. MSRP: $245
Graymoor Lane Designs, a Division of Artistry Ltd. 8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-8340 Email: inquiry@graymoorlanedesigns.com Website: graymoorlanedesigns.com From Graymoor Lane Designs’ Star Wall collection, the 14k yellow and white gold oval ring showcases an iconic mid-century modern design motif. Also available in 14k white gold with a 0.04 ct. center diamond. MSRP: $650
Costar Imports, Inc. Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com After customer demand, we have taken our most popular stackable wedding bands and introduced matching stackable bangle bracelets with our new locking mechanisms! These bracelets can be customized with diamonds and birthstones.
Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. Effy Jewelry Website: effyjewelry.com More is always more: Delicate baguette and pavé-set diamonds wrap in one single ring, a design reminiscent of the ocean’s waves in motion. Artfully placed for maximum opulence, this is where bold expression and playful grace meet. Diamond wrap ring in 14k white gold with 0.52 ct. t.w. diamonds, MSRP: $2,150
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631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.
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JYE Luxury Collection 101 Utah St., Suite 101 San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com Every piece in the JYE Luxury Collection reflects the brand’s bining unique classic and commitment to excellence by combining contemporary designs and impeccable workmanship in 18k gold/ platinum along with G/VS+ premium-cut diamonds and fine gems.
Shy Creation 631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Fall in love with Shy Creation’s award-winning heart necklace. It’s the perfect Valentine’s Day gift your customers will swoon over. Available in all sizes.
Hoover & Strong
RDI Diamonds Inc.
10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com
2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com
Hoover & Strong has over 650 die-struck bands including hundreds of new classic, fancy, multitone, and diamond styles! All bands are Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our products.
The Ariel Diamonds® beautifully enhanced diamond line is the best option for you and your customers. This program gives you the ability to offer a bigger diamond … even when the budget just isn’t enough.
Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Strengthen and grow your repair services with Stuller’s latest tools, techniques, and business tips. Visit stuller.com/repair to learn how you can up your repair game.
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Christopher Designs 50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-955-0970 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@christopherdesigns.com Website: christopherdesigns.com Our patented L’Amour Crisscut diamonds provide you with the ability to differentiate from competition and remain profitable in today’s market. When placed side by side with others, the benefits are astounding. Learn how we can help.
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SERVICES TO TRADE
INVISIBLE EXPERTS! INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR • SIZING • REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES • LASER WELDING
We Have The Answer to Your Problems! www.invisibleexperts.com SIGNATURE JEWELRY INC.
1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026
617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014
REPS WANTED
CAREER OPPORTUNITIES
NOW HIRING VETERAN FIELD SALES REPRESENTATIVES
JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES
• Selling fine jewelry, signed pieces, diamond basics to Italian designers • Draw possibilities available • 10% commission paid monthly • Select territories available • High earning potential • Must have a following with fine jewelry retailers Contact: Dominic Mainella, Managing Partner 716-480-3000 | dm@mdjadvantage.com
SCHOOLS & EDUCATION JEWELRY CLASSES
• Wax Modeling • Casting Mold Making • Bead Pearl Stringing • Diamond Setting • Rendering/Design • Jewelry Repair Long and Short Term Courses EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. 32 East 31 Street (Park & Madison) New York, NY 10016 Call (212) 686-1944 www.studiojewelersltd.com
CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING 3D computer design ● 3D wax printing ● Precious metal casting ●
Stone setting and finishing ● Diamond supply ● Laser engraving & repair
Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com
STUDIO JEWELERS, LTD
JEWELRY APPRAISERS
●
Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com
The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.
WATCHES & WATCH WORK ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices. Star Findings PO Box 6167, West Orange, NJ 07052 212-941-7655 ernie@starfindings.com www.starfindings.com
Heritage Appraisers Inc is seeking several local experienced jewelry appraisers. This is a subcontractor opportunity with limited travel. Several territories nationally. Top commission paid.
Applicants can submit their resumes along with two sample appraisals to appraise@heritageappraisers.com or fax to 216-803-4245 These are immediate openings only serious applicants should apply.
RUN A CLASSIFIED AD STARTING AT $220 Call your JCK Sales Representative or email JCKClassifieds@advance.net.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2019
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ADVERTISING
INDEX AGTA pg. Gatefold cover Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alex Velvet pg. 35 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Artistry Ltd. pg. 22 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Atlanta Jewelry Show pg. 42 Website: atlantajewelryshow.com Email: info@atlantajewelryshow.com Toll-Free: 800-241-0399 Christopher Designs pg. 27 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970 Costar Imports pg. 29 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR Effy pg. 31 Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Facet Barcelona USA Inc. pg. 19 Website: facetbarcelona.com/usa Email: sales@facet.es Phone: 212-302-8200 Fax: 347-441-0908 Gabriel & Co. pg. 17 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 Gdansk International Fair Co. pg. 41 Website: amberif.pl Email: amberif@mtgsa.com.pl Phone: +48 58 554 91 34 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250
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Hong Kong Trade Development Council pg. 95 Website: hktdc.com Email: hkjewelry.visitor@hktdc.org
Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 25 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327
Hoover & Strong pg. 47 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997
Nicole Barr pg. 26 Website: nicolebarr.com Email: us-info@nicolebarr.com Phone: 919-846-3704 Toll-Free: 877-810-7312 Fax: 919-846-3705
Italgem Steel pg. 24 Website: Italgemsteel.com Email: sam@italgemsteel.com Phone: 514-388-5777 Toll-Free: 855-ITALGEM Fax: 514-384-5777 JCK Events pg. 6-7, 39, 96 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 JIS Show pg. 4-5, 59 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 Jye’s International pg. 37 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880 Kimberly Collins Colored Gems pg. 28 Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com Email: kim@kimberlycollinsgems.com Phone: 512-661-8778 Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Les Georgettes pg. 32 Website: lesgeorgettes.com Email: orders@lesgeorgettesusa.com Phone: 718-360-2917 Midas pg. 13 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765
Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 11 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Rand & Paseka pg. 46 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. Back Cover Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Shy Creation Inc. pg. 21 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749
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Star Jewelry pg. 50 Website: blueraydiamonds.com Email: Takess@aol.com Phone: 734-459-8664 Fax: 734-459-8617 Stuller Inc. pg. 23 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Thai Trade Center pg. 38 Website: bkkgems.com Email: bkkgems@ditp.go.th Thorsten Jewelry pg. 45 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com Umicore pg. 94 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 Wilkerson pg. 57 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333 Zen Diamond pg. 53 Website: zendiamond.com Phone: 201-842-7698
Copyright Š2019 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 150 No. 1 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/ August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.
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THE WAY WE WERE COVER STORIES FROM 150 YEARS OF JCK
‘CIRCULAR’ LOGIC
BEFORE WE WERE “The Industry Authority,” we were “The Recognized Organ of the Trade.” We were also “a Monthly Journal devoted to the interests of Watchmakers, Jewelers, Silversmiths, Electro-plate Manufacturers, and those engaged in the kindred branches of art industry.” Catchy, right? Just a few of the articles in this 20-page 1878 issue: “Manufacture of Jewelry” (Byzantine style is out, Merovingian is in!); “The Behavior of Steel During Hardening”; “An Ingenious Clock”; “Precious Stones and Gems” (it quotes ancient Roman scholar Pliny the Elder); “Horological Revivals”; and “Revival of Antique Jewelry” (conclusion: Italians do it better). In foreign news, “the artificial production of rubies and sapphires in France is regarded as highly successful.” A subscription to The Jewelers’ Circular and Horological Review was $2, “a rate far below that of any monthly publication of its size and contents.” Yes, it actually says that on page 1. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
PHOTOGRAPH BY NESTOR CERVANTES
A peek inside the then–9-year-old Jewelers’ Circular and Horological Review, a precursor to JCK
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