JCK 2020 March/Spring Issue by JCK Magazine

#EffyMoments

EffyJewelr y.com FINE

JE WELRY

SALES @ E F F YG RO UP. CO M

E S T.

1979

T : 1 8 5 5 AS K E F F Y

CO L L ECT M O M E N TS.

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JE WELRY

SALES @ E F F YG RO UP. CO M

E S T.

1979

T : 1 8 5 5 AS K E F F Y

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JCK LAS VEGAS Events | Opportunities | Promotions | Special Advertising Section

JCK Show & Tell

IT’S TIME TO SHINE AT THE

Biggest Jewelry Show of the Year...

LAS VEGAS

SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS E LV I S M U S T B E I N T H E B U I L D I N G , B E C A U S E W E ’ R E H E A R I N G ‘ V I VA L A S V E G A S ’ A L R E A D Y. J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 2 0 I S J U S T A R O U N D T H E B E N D , A N D O U R E X H I B I T O R S A R E P R E PA R I N G T O D E L I G H T YO U W I T H N E W J E W E L R Y C O L L E C T I O N S , G E M S A N D M I N E R A L S , T E C H N O L O G Y A N D M O R E . R E G I S T E R T O J O I N U S AT T H E S A N D S E X P O C O N V E N T I O N C E N T E R J U N E 2 – 5 , 2 0 2 0 , W I T H L U X U R Y B Y J C K P R E C E D I N G T H E E V E N T, B E G I N N I N G M AY 3 1 . F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N A N D A F U L L L I S T O F E X H I B I T O R S ( U P D AT E S R E G U L A R LY ! ) , V I S I T J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 2 0 . C O M .

new date pattern for 2020:

T U E S D A Y, J U N E 2 - F R I D A Y, J U N E 5 , 2 0 2 0 ALL OF JCK LAS VEGAS OPEN

M O N D A Y, J U N E 1 , 2 0 2 0

G LO B A L G E M S TO N E , T H E E XC H A N G E & J C K TA L K S O P E N SOME JCK LAS VEGAS 2020 EXHIBITING DESIGNERS

ERICA COURTNEY

LAUREN K

LE VIAN

LIVEN COMPANY

R E G I S T E R T O DAY AT J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 2 0 . C O M

LAS VEGAS

introducing...

at JCK LasVegas T H E E XC H A N G E AT J C K L AS V E G AS I S YO U R D E S T I N AT I O N F O R I M M E D I AT E AT- S H OW D E L I V E RY O F F I N I S H E D S I LV E R , FAS H I O N A N D C O S T U M E J E W E L RY AT A R A N G E O F P R I C E P O I N T S .

O P E N S A DAY E A R L I E R T H A N J C K L A S V E G A S M O N D AY, J U N E 1 - F R I D AY, J U N E 5 , 2 0 2 0 SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS

A s p a r t o f W J A’ s e f f o r t s t o c o n t i n u e p r o m o t i n g gender equality in the jewelry and watch

T H E J C K I N D U S T R Y F U N D W A S E S TA B L I S H E D I N 1 9 9 7 A N D T O

i n d u s t r i e s , WJA l a u n c h e d t h e G e n d e r - E q u a l i t y

D AT E , T H I S F U N D H A S A W A R D E D O V E R $ 6 M I L L I O N I N G R A N T S T O

project to empower our members through

P R O J E C T S I M PA C T I N G T H E G R O W T H A N D H E A LT H O F T H E J E W E L R Y

effective tools and programs that contribute

I N D U S T R Y AT L A R G E .

to the overall health and positive image of the

O N E O F 2 0 1 9 ’ S R E C I P I E N T S , T H E W O M E N ’ S J E W E L R Y A S S O C I AT I O N

i n d u s t r y. T h e P r o j e c t a i m s t o c o n t i n u e i t s w o r k

(WJA), IS A RESOURCE FOR WOMEN TO MENTOR, PROVIDE

providing skill-based training that contributes

SCHOLARSHIPS AND SEED MONEY FOR NEW ENTRANTS INTO THE J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y, A S W E L L A S R E C O G N I Z E W O M E N ’ S TA L E N T S A N D AC C O M P L I S H M E N T S .

to the professional development of women.

- Women’s Jewelry Association

EACH 2019 RECIPIENT WILL BE PROFILED IN THE JCK INSIDER NEWSLETTER. VISIT JCKINSIDER.COM TO SUBSCRIBE AND LEARN HOW THE JCK INDUSTRY FUND IS MAKING A DIFFERENCE.

FOLLOW @JCKEVENTS

jckinsider.com

@ j c k e v e n t s # J C K L a s Ve g a s

LAS VEGAS TUESDAY, JUNE 2 – FRIDAY, JUNE 5, 2020

SUNDAY, MAY 31 – FRIDAY, JUNE 5, 2020 BY INVITATION ONLY MAY 31 – JUNE 1

MONDAY, JUNE 1: GLOBAL GEMSTONE, THE EXCHANGE AND JCK TALKS OPEN

SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS THE PREMIER LOCATION WHERE THE GLOBAL JEWELRY INDUSTRY COMES TOGETHER TO MEET AND NETWORK WITH THEIR PEERS • An all-encompassing, international selection of finished jewelry at all price-points • The latest jewelry manufacturing technology, business services, and suppliers for every facet of your jewelry business • Forward-thinking education provides impactful and action oriented sessions focused on “Solutions for your Store”

THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS THE PINNACLE OF A JEWELRY BUYING EXPERIENCE • An exclusive event featuring the finest highend bridal, fine fashion and design brands from around the world • Intimate networking with the most distinguished retailers from across the country • Expertly curated amenities mix the best of business and networking in a luxe environment to do business

North America’s most iconic jewelry buying events for retailers to discover what’s new and what’s next in the fine jewelry market. Each Reed Jewelry Group event provides retailers access to the world’s best jewelry suppliers coupled with forward thinking education and curated networking events throughout the year.

R E E D J E W E L R Y G R O U P. C O M

WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 3 – SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2021 JW MARRIOTT TUCSON STARR PASS RESORT & SPA, TUCSON A RELAXED SETTING, CAREFULLY DESIGNED TO INSPIRE, EXCITE & CONNECT RETAILERS, DESIGNERS AND BRANDS

TUESDAY, APRIL 28 – THURSDAY, APRIL 30, 2020 TUESDAY, OCTOBER 13 – FRIDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2020 MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER, MIAMI BEACH, FL JIS DELIVERY – SAN DIEGO – FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 13 SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 15, 2020 SAN DIEGO CONVENTION CENTER, SAN DIEGO, CA

• Curated experience highlighting the finest studio designers and handmade jewelry from around the world • A diverse selection of loose gemstones, machinery, and technology for

MULTIPLE EVENTS HELD THROUGHOUT THE YEAR CONVENIENTLY TIMED DURING THE MOST POPULAR RESTOCKING SEASONS

custom jewelers • Inspiring networking and education sessions in a relaxing but productive environment to do business

• Prominent brands, designers, and manufacturers from around the world offering 18K Gold, diamond jewelry, bridal, fashion, and sterling silver at all price points • Flexible and convenient purchasing options offering immediate delivery or order writing

CONTENTS

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

See the winners in categories such as best bridal design, fashion/ bridge, statement piece, and more. Plus: JCK editors and Instagram influencers choose their favorite jewels.

FEATURES 80

SILVER BELLES

Mix (metal) it up, find the hoops of your dreams, and have a blackened celebration with these new designs. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS

ADORNED IN THE USA What does it take for jewelry to qualify for the Made in the USA label? And is the effort worth it? BY EMILI VESILIND

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN VEGAS JCK returns to the Sands for another year. Here’s how to spend your time when you’re not at the show. BY MATT VILLANO

GOOD AND READY Prepare to weather any fiscal storm with these time-tested jewelry retail strategies. BY WHITNEY SIELAFF

MARRIAGE STORY

92 MARCH 2020

JCK030120_014_TOC.indd 14

The Knot’s biennial Jewelry & Engagement Study offers a gold mine of intelligence on recently engaged couples ages 25 to 34. We c herry-picked the best ring-related findings. BY AMY ELLIOTT

(THIS PAGE) MODEL: PHOTOGRAPH BY JASON KIM; STILL LIFE: PHOTOGRAPH BY JOEL STANS; (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) TRIPLE DIAMOND HOOPS WITH 1.32 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS IN RUTHENIUM-PLATED SILVER, $4,200, NANCY NEWBERG JEWELRY, 310-508-8917, NANCYNEWBERG.COM; CLASSIC CHAIN STERLING SILVER RING WITH MABE FRESHWATER PEARL, $595, JOHN HARDY, 888-838-3022, JOHNHARDY.COM; ISOLA MOTHER-OF-PEARL RING IN STERLING SILVER, $450, JUDITH RIPKA, MSCHRAGER@EXCELBRANDS.COM, JUDITHRIPKA.COM; RINCON FRESHWATER PEARL NECKLACE WITH RHODIUM-PLATED BRASS BEAD, $375, MOUNSER, SALES@MOUNSER.COM, MOUNSER.COM. ILLUSTRATION: RAMI NIEMI. (P. 16) BLANCHETT: DANIELE VENTURELLI/WIREIMAGE

2020 JCK JEWELRY AWARDS

2/14/20 10:55 AM

THREE B I L L ION Y E A R S in the M A K I NG

W E I N V I T E Y O U T O U S E A L L T H E V A L U A B L E A S S E T S A N D P R O G R A M S A V A I L A B L E A T S H O P. D I A M O N D P R O D U C E R S . C O M

SOCIAL MEDIA ASSETS

E-LEARNING

ASSURE PROGRAM (equipment testing)

NEW DIAMOND EDUCATIONAL MATERIALS

IN-STORE ASSETS (counter cards, Duratrans, in-case signs)

CUSTOM TV COMMERCIALS

SHARABLE CONTENT (videos, stories, infographics)

RADIO ADS

SALES TRAINING

CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS

20 JEWEL BOX

5 things rocking the industry

22 FROM THE EDITOR 24 STAFF PICKS 26 FROM THE PUBLISHER 32 JCK INSIDER 34 SOCIAL DIARY 37 NEWS GEMS

JCKONLINE.COM

Luxury conglomerate LVMH acquires storied retailer Tiffany & Co.

47 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER Date & Time in Sudbury, Mass. 50 RETAIL THERAPY What bridal styles are your clients requesting this year? 52 CAUSES TO CELEBRATE The first annual Diamonds Do Good Jewelry Awards 54 STORE WE ADORE Facets of Earth in Kingston, N.Y.

57 THE LOOK 58 RED CARPET 60 JCK ASKS...

Pamela Love

105

102 COLORED STONES 103 GOLD 105 SHOW BIZ

101 THE VAULT

The scoop on the back-to-back Swiss fairs: Watches & Wonders Geneva and Baselworld

107 TOOL TIME

Why an Instagram giveaway might be just the ticket. Plus: the Talsam semiprecious pendant.

116 THE WAY WE WORE

Veruschka sparkles in Vogue in a signature Bulgari heritage jewel.

MARCH 2020

JCK030120_014_TOC.indd 16

2/14/20 10:55 AM

Cover Look

JCKONLINE.COM

Tail Feather 14k white gold necklace with 6.58 ct. tanzanite and 1 ct. t.w. diamonds; $9,999; Brecken Farnsworth/Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

BLUE HEAVEN

Parlé’s tanzanite takes top honors in the JCK Jewelry Awards.

Palm Leaf ring in 18k white gold with 2.6 cts. t.w. baguette diamonds; $11,550; Anita Ko; 424-302-0413; anitako.com

Small Scattered Diamond Circle ring with 0.14 ct. t.w. diamonds in silver; $398; Adina Reyter; 213-688-8313; adinareyter.com

Not pictured: Flower earrings in 18k white gold with 8.45 cts. t.w. diamonds; $35,000; Sanjay Kasliwal; 212-988-1511

Classic Chain cuff with mabe freshwater pearls in sterling silver; $1,995; John Hardy; 888-8383022; johnhardy.com

Isola ring in sterling silver with mother-of-pearl; $450; Judith Ripka; mschrager@ excelbrands.com; judithripka.com

SILVER RUSH

Metal-winning jewels that make a major statement for spring (TOP) COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON KIM Stylist: DANIEL EDLEY/WALTER SCHUPFER; Hair: NICOLAS ELDIN USING MILK SHAKE HAIR/ART DEPARTMENT; Makeup: CHARLOTTE DAY USING KEVYN AUCOIN/ART DEPARTMENT; Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON USING CHANEL/ART DEPARTMENT; Model: NOEL BERRY/IMG; Top: Dries Van Noten (ABOVE) PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS Prop Styling: Emily and Tony Mullin/Hello Artists MARCH 2020

JCK030120_018_CoverLook.indd 18

2/14/20 1:38 PM

The Essence of Timeless Design 18 Karat - Platinum - Fine Gems

WWW.JYESCORP.COM

415 621 8880

MARCH 2020

the industry authority

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box Given the slowing economy and a compressed calendar, most jewelers declared holiday 2019 a perfectly acceptable selling season, though not exactly one they popped Champagne corks over. According to Mastercard SpendingPulse, overall jewelry sales grew 1.8%, though online jewelry sales grew 8.8%. Those numbers roughly correspond with the post-holiday report from Signet, which said its online sales climbed 13.5%, while brick-and-mortar sales dropped 0.2%. What were the biggest sellers? Most mentioned by jewelers: diamonds, in particular bridal and studs; watches, in particular Rolex (definitely Rolex); and in a distant third place, colored gemstones.

AWARDS At January’s Golden Globes, necklaces were not only ubiquitous, but they were also big—many surpassing the 25-, 50-, and 75-carat range. Among the most d azzling: Gwyneth Paltrow with two layered Bulgari Fiorever high jewelry diamond necklaces under a see-through frilly Fendi gown; Billy Porter in a 42 ct.–plus Tiffany diamond sparkler and a white feather-trimmed Alex Vinash ensemble; Helen Mirren, regal as ever in a 73.55 cts. t.w. cascading diamond drop Harry Winston necklace and cranberry Christian Dior Haute Couture; and Jennifer Aniston (above), also in Dior Couture, in an elegant 1950s Cartier diamond double-swag platinum necklace from Fred Leighton. Can we officially declare 2020 the year of the necklace?

Bezel-set marquise diamond wedding band in 18k yellow gold; $9,600; Leo Ingwer; sales@ leoingwer.com; leoingwer.com

ANISTON: INSTAR IMAGES

HOLIDAYS

JCKONLINE.COM

JCK030120_020_JewelBox.indd 20

2/19/20 3:49 PM

Gold One 1k gold bold polished concave ring; $225; qvc.com

GOLD In 2018, the Federal Trade Commission removed the traditional karatage threshold for gold. That prompted industry speculation over how long it would be before someone started selling a 1k product. As it turned out, it took about a year for Select Jewelry to test how low you can go. Gold One, now being sold by QVC and Macy’s, uses a patent-pending 1k gold alloy plated with a layer of 14k gold to look like standard gold jewelry—though it costs about 80%–90% less. Traditionalists were appalled, but Select president Ronny Seliktar believes the product will expand the market. “We think this is going to save the gold industry,” he says, “not hurt it.”

MOVIES

RING: COURTESY OF QVC

Film buffs are grumbling about Uncut Gems star Adam Sandler’s Oscar snub, but those in the know—and in the jewelry industry— are buzzing about the dizzying Diamond District–set flick. If you haven’t seen it, buckle up: Vogue’s comment about the pace—“so fast it’s almost nauseating, like having an IV full of Red Bull nailed into your aorta”—is spot-on. If you have seen the Safdie brothers–directed drama, you likely have strong feelings about Sandler’s Howard Ratner (pictured), a jeweler who deals in fake Rollies and pawns his clients’ pieces to fund his own gambling habit. Also: an Ethiopian opal smuggled…in a dead fish? Still, the Safdies got a lot right: the rocks (all the characters’ bling, like those giant diamond studs worn by Kevin Garnett, is real); the cast, which includes straight-from-47thStreet retailers such as TraxNYC’s Maksud Agadjani; and, perhaps most important, the value of a handshake in the jewelry biz. JCKONLINE.COM

JCK030120_020_JewelBox.indd 21

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Daytona 40 mm in 18k gold; $26,500; lacalifornienne.com

LAWSUITS Some have called La Californienne’s candy-colored remixed Rolexes “whimsical” and “fun.” Rolex has a less flattering name: counterfeit. In November, the watchmaker filed suit to stop their sale, claiming they infringe on its trademark. La Californienne says it “disagrees” with that and “stands behind [its] product.” That’s not the only lawsuit keeping intellectual property attorneys busy. In January, WD Lab Grown Diamonds filed suit against three competitors—Pure Grown, Fenix, and ALTR, and their parent companies— claiming they infringe on its patents for diamond growing and post-growth treatment. WD’s new CEO, Sue Rechner, says the company is open to a licensing deal but will otherwise see this through. The companies didn’t respond to requests for comment. MARCH 2020

2/14/20 11:01 AM

from the editor

Eleonore Suite No. 18 in 14k white gold with gray spinel Delicate Pavé ring and Triple Baguette Tiara band (sold separately); $6,770 as shown; Anna Sheffield; info@ annasheffield.com; annasheffield.com

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com MARCH 2020

JCK030120_022_EIC_Letter.indd 22

BUT LATELY, I’VE had wedding rings on the brain. My partner, Jim, and I have been together since 2014, and we have a 1-year-old son. We’ve talked about getting married, but the baby and the house we bought last summer took precedence. Now that I have those big things checked off the list, I’ve allowed myself to fantasize about rings. Like so many people getting engaged today, I’m not hung up on a diamond solitaire. Quite the opposite, actually. I’m looking at bezel-set diamonds in gypsy rings, yellow gold bands with a sprinkling of spinels, even pearls! (I know, I know—they’re delicate.) I’m not alone in my ring preferences. Dig into “Marriage Story” on page 94 by contributing editor Amy Elliott to digest the top takeaways from The Knot’s 2019 Jewelry and Engagement Study. While the results indicate just 1 in 10 couples want a non-diamond center stone, I’d put big money on that percentage growing. Millennial couples, to say nothing of their Gen Z counterparts, are famously budget- and environment-conscious, and the industry has no shortage of affordable, responsibly sourced gemstones to please them.

Speaking of budgets, have you taken a look at yours lately? I’m no Chicken Little, but last fall, when news sites started posting stories with headlines like “Here’s a list of recession signals that are flashing red,” I spoke to contributor Whitney Sielaff about writing a feature on how jewelers should prepare for an economic crisis. “Good and Ready” (page 92) delivers great advice without sounding any (false) alarms. Preparation of a different sort is the point of “What’s Happening in Vegas” (page 88) by contributor Matt Villano, a travel writer who’s sussed out all the fun and fabulous new restaurants, bars, and entertainment options for those of you headed to JCK Las Vegas this year. I’ll conclude this editor’s note with a giant hooray for all the winners of the JCK Jewelry Awards. The results of the 2020 design competition begin on page 64 of this product-packed spring issue (that includes a sleek silver jewelry still life starting on page 80 called—what else?—“Silver Belles”). Special congrats go to Pocatello, Idaho–based Parlé Jewelry Designs, whose grand prize–winning tanzanite pendant looks on our cover model. Hmm…perhaps a tanzanite engagement ring?

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

’m not married.

JCKONLINE.COM

2/14/20 11:02 AM

MARCH 2020

the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 1

Small Mojave necklace in yellow gold–plated brass with lapis; $250; Pamela Love; avneet@ pamelalove.com; pamelalove.com

One-of-a-kind Rune bracelet with 70.33 cts. t.w. cabochon Australian opals in 24k yellow gold; $24,500; Gurhan; 646-230-1122; gurhan.com

3 Ribbon ring in 14k gold with enamel and blue sapphires; $2,730; Nora Kogan; lauren@ megamegaprojects.com; norakogan.com

Draper ring in 18k yellow gold with moonstone and lapis; $6,750; Rush Jewelry Design; 212-219-3793; rushjewelrydesign.com

“For a chic, unconventional take on Classic Blue, Pantone’s 2020 Color of the Year, pair it with yellow gold.”—Victoria Gomelsky, JCK editor-in-chief

BLUE STATE

What JCK magazine’s Victoria Gomelsky is loving this month

PORTRAIT: NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS

Lapis Hedgehog earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds and lapis; $5,000; Karma El Khalil; diana@ karmaelkhalil.com; karmaelkhalil.com

JCKONLINE.COM

JCK030120_024_StaffPicks.indd 24

2/14/20 11:06 AM

FROM THE PUBLISHER

Vicenza’s stunning landmark Basilica Palladiana

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com MARCH 2020

STARTING THIS YEAR, the magazine is evolving its suite of media products to reflect the changing times and methods of content consumption the internet has brought our way. We’re calling it a “digital first” strategy, and it includes a robust suite of digital products as well as four spectacular print issues of JCK: March (spring), May (pre–JCK Las Vegas show), June (at-show), and September (fall). These four issues have long been our bestread and best-supported. We will continue to turn to the amazingly talented creative team at Headline Studio (a division of Advance Publications, the media company responsible for legendary magazines such as Vogue and Vanity Fair) to produce the beautiful magazines this industry deserves. Digitally, we continue to produce our six-days-a-week JCK News Daily newsletter, our terrific JCKonline.com website, our 39,000-followers-strong Instagram feed, and our 16,000-followers-strong Facebook page. We’re also ramping up our JCK Webinars,

and we have launched a new email series called JCK Reports. Finally, if you haven’t yet subscribed to our informative podcast, The Jewelry District, find the link on our homepage and listen up! While there’s been change at JCK—and, indeed, across the media landscape—our mission remains the same: fulfilling our role as the book of record for the U.S. jewelry industry by providing first-in-class news and content essential to the trade. Meanwhile, as the picture above illustrates, my annual winter travel whirl has been in full swing—with trips to the VicenzaOro, C enturion, Select, AGTA, and JCK Tucson shows. It’s always a blast to see friends and colleagues from around the world, and this year was no exception. And between Italy and Arizona, it’s nice work if you can get it! Next up is the American Gem Society’s annual Conclave, held this year in Denver. See you then! JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS PRAKAS; TOP: FLAVIO VALLENARI/ISTOCK/GETTY

pring has sprung!

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 151 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

EDITORIAL News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com

U.S. ADVERTISING SALES CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

Senior Editor & Social Media Director EMILI VESILIND / evesilind@gmail.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI

Ju p r 888.674.8340 � info@graymoorlanedesigns.com www.graymoorlanedesigns.com Graymoor Lane Designs is a division of Artistry, Ltd.

FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Contributing Editors AMY ELLIOTT / aelliott718@gmail.com BRITTANY SIMINITZ / bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHI-HART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors JOEL STANS, DIEGO UCHITEL, PATRICIA HEAL, JASON KIM, MIKAEL SCHULZ, KENJI TOMA, STEPHEN LEWIS, BALL & ALBANESE, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN, KEN GUTMAKER, NICOLE LaMOTTE, MARK LUND, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, GAVIN O’NEILL, CODY PICKENS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK

C I R C U L AT I O N Director, PubWorX / WENDY EDELSTEIN Subscriptions and Customer Service 800-305-7759 (North America) 515-247-2984 (other regions)

PUBWORX Operations Director MICHAEL CANDEMERES Operations Account Manager ADAM BASSANO Premedia Specialist VANESSA COPPOLA Digital Imaging Specialists JAIRO CORLETO THOMAS OLESEN

PUBLISHED FOR REED EXHIBITIONS BY

VP, Content LIZ BUFFA

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com

VP, Business Development MATT CHERVIN

Marketing Manager / NATALIE CHOMET Account Director / HEATHER BOHL Art Director / ANDY ROSS Production Manager / NESTOR CERVANTES Client Services Specialist / KATIE KENNEDY One World Trade Center, Floor 21 New York, NY 10007 For content marketing inquiries, please call 212-286-7330 headline-studio.com Centurion Arizona • The Select Shows • AGTA • JCK Tucson • SJTA Luxury by JCK • JCK Las Vegas • Prime • Centurion South Beach

Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

headline studio is a division of advance local

/ randy siegel, president

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Chief Operating Officer / Reed Exhibitions YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 / yweinrich@reedexpo.com Group Vice President / JCK & Luxury SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 / sbachmann@reedexpo.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305; cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com

ISRAEL RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com THAILAND BUSABA THAWEEPHOON Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7374, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell 66-96-725-1525 busaba.thaw@reedtradex.co.th

CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

J C K L A S V E G A S , L U X U R Y & S W I S S WAT C H

JCK TUCSON

Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedexpo.com

Event Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@reedexpo.com

Special Events and Conference Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@reedexpo.com Strategic Accounts Manager JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Luxury 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedexpo.com International Accounts Manager ALEXANDRA WURSTER Passport, Hong Kong, Germany & International Companies 203-840-5332 awurster@reedexpo.com Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, Essentials & Technology, Gallery, Bella Italia, Retail Innovation 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedexpo.com Account Executive ANA CROSBY Bridal, Currents, Diamond Plaza 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedexpo.com Account Executive NINA MANCINI Bridge, Design Center, Design@Luxury 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedexpo.com

Account Executive BARBARA MURRAY Global Gemstone, First Look 203-840-5820 bmurray@reedexpo.com Sales Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Antique & Estate, Plumb Club, Lab-Grown Diamonds 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com Retailer Account Manager JCK Las Vegas MONALISA DEPINA 203-840-5556 mdepina@reedexpo.com Retailer Account Manager Luxury ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedexpo.com Marketing Manager JCK Las Vegas LINDSAY TYLER 203-840-5340 ltyler@reedexpo.com Marketing Manager Luxury AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedexpo.com

Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedexpo.com Sales Manager NINA MANCINI Arizona Ballroom 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedexpo.com Account Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Tucson Ballroom 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedexpo.com Marketing Manager AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedexpo.com

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CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

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INSIDER

DID YOU KNOW?

More than 500,000 visitors ride the gondolas at the Venetian every year. Aspiring gondoliers take note: There’s even an on-site Gondola University. JCK LAS VEGAS runs June 2–5.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT lasvegas.jckonline.com

ARE WE BLUE?

MIRROR MIRROR Ever wonder how Lauren Kessler picks the stones for her eye-popping pieces? “I am drawn to stones that are unusual and organic, like boulder opals and watermelon tourmaline,” says the founder-designer of Lauren K, “or stones that are beautifully and artfully cut, like mirror-cut aquamarines or abstract-shaped sapphires.” See jckinsider.com/luxury-link for Kessler’s full convo.

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky isn't the only one enamored of Pantone’s 2020 Color of the Year, Classic Blue (see her Staff Picks on p. 24). Check out jckinsider.com for a bevy of blue sapphire beauties, including this K.Mita pendant (top) and JS Noor ring (above). SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM. JCKONLINE.COM

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Social Diary

2020 GEM AWARDS

Paul Schneider of Twist, winner of the Retailer of the Year

Gem-winning designer Nikos Koulis (c.) with Vogue’s Lynn Yaeger (l.) and The Adventurine’s Marion Fasel

Jewelers of America’s annual Gem Awards were, as always, a rockin’ good time

Designer Marla Aaron and JCK & Luxury group VP Sarin Bachmann

MARCH 2020

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Fernando Jorge, the 2019 jewelry design winner, with British Vogue’s Rachel Garrahan, winner of the Gem for media excellence

Ben Bridge Jeweler’s Ed Bridge, the Gem honoree for lifetime achievement, with his wife, Pam

Jewelry design nominee Ana Khouri, wearing her own superchic jewels

1–2, 4, 6–7: BART GORIN; 3, 5: BENJAMIN LOZOVSKY/BFA.COM

The For Future Reference squad: Randi Molofsky, Kirsty Stone, Brent Neale Winston, Emily P. Wheeler, Meaghan Flynn Petropoulos, Nicole Carosella, and Kim Carosella

GEM SESSION

JCKONLINE.COM

2/14/20 11:14 AM

made in the usa for 108 years! Hoover & Strong is a manufacturer of over 30,000 eco-friendly and responsible Harmony jewelry products, all Made in the USA since 1912. Over the last decade, we have grown our Harmony brand to include recycled precious metals, recycled diamonds, USA lab grown diamonds and most recently artisanal metals.

Our recycled metals are sourced directly from our on site refinery, which is fed by precious metal scrap from customers across the USA. Utilizing environmentallyfriendly refining techniques that always exceed federal, state and local regulations, we are proud to be one of the world’s greenest refiners. Over the course of our 108-year history, Hoover & Strong has maintained 100% of its operations within the USA. Coworkers across all divisions including our office, mill, findings and refinery, all work in the same facility located in Richmond, Virginia.

Working closely together keeps our communication lines open to ensure our customers receive superior customer service and top-quality products. Our number one priority is our commitment to our coworkers and our customers, both of which have made our long history possible. We are honored to be part of our local and international communities and believe it is our duty to give back. Every year, we contribute to local organizations and charities that support the arts and help families in need. Habitat for Humanity, Visual Arts Center and CERF+ (Craft Emergency Relief Fund) are just a few of the local organizations we support. To help our international community, we partner with and support various artisanal mines in Colombia, Peru and the DRC. This support includes donations towards clean-up efforts and purchases of mined artisanal gold, which we use for a select group of mill product offerings. All mining partners receive a fair price for their gold which contributes to the growth and well-being of their communities. With a strong commitment to responsibility, growth and sustainability in the USA, we look forward to paying it forward for another 100 years and beyond!

www.hooverandstrong.com

info@hooverandstrong.com

800-759-9997

the industry authority

MARCH 2020

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS BIG DEAL!

LVMH acquires Tiffany & Co. BY ROB BATES

N NOV. 25, LVMH and Tiffany & Co. agreed that the luxury conglomerate will purchase the famed retailer for $16.2 billion, or $135 a share, in what’s being described as the priciest deal ever in the luxury sector. The acquisition, which was approved by Tiffany shareholders on Feb. 4 but at press time still needed regulatory approval, will end Tiffany’s 32 years as an independent public company. Tiffany has been a rumored takeover target for years, but past CEOs always insisted the brand would remain independent. This time, though, it appears both sides wanted a deal, and it came together quickly. In late October, when the retailer’s stock was trading at around $98, LVMH made an unsolicited bid of $120 a share. Tiffany’s board turned that down, but the two sides started talking, and one month later, they shook hands. According to Tiffany’s proxy statement, its investment advisers reached out to four other possible suitors— including, reportedly, the Warren Buffett–helmed Berkshire Hathaway— but all said they were not interested in purchasing Tiffany at the amount sought. The retailer said it received no other “credible” takeover offer. On a conference call following the announcement of the acquisition,

JCKONLINE.COM

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2/14/20 1:26 PM

NEWS GEMS

THE

The Tiffany Flagship Next Door at 6 E. 57th St., the retailer’s home away from home while its Fifth Avenue store is being renovated

LVMH chief financial officer Jean-Jacques Guiony argued that being a public company was holding Tiffany back. (LVMH is also public but does not break out profits for individual brands.) “We [will] not do much better or much differently, but we will enable [Tiffany’s] strategy,” he said. “When you have to do quarterly reporting, it doesn’t help [you take] a long-term view. We expect to bring Tiffany time and capital, which are things that are not that easy to get when you are reporting to the stock market.” He added that LVMH could learn from Tiffany’s success at e-commerce as well as its expertise at vertical integration and responsible sourcing. The purchase will make LVMH a far bigger player in the watch and jewelry market, where it sees a huge opportunity. Post acquisition, that division will compose 16% of the company’s sales, up from 9%. Guiony declined comment on what will happen to the company’s current management, including CEO Alessandro Bogliolo, a former executive of Bulgari (which has been owned by LVMH since 2011). Days before the deal was announced, Tiffany recruited former Barneys CEO Daniella Vitale to be executive vice president and chief brand officer. Speaking to WWD, LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault said Tiffany has “a lot of improvement to do for the stores. The design of certain stores could certainly be improved.” And Arnault made another comment that likely inflamed concerns about this quintessentially American brand being gobbled up by an overseas owner. “Tiffany is an American icon, which is now going to become a little French, too,” he told Reuters. LVMH also owns jewelers Bulgari, Chaumet, and Fred, as well as three watch brands. For 17 years, it partnered with De Beers on its retail chain.

(PREVIOUS PAGE) TIFFANY & CO.; (THIS PAGE) RODOLFO MARTINEZ (2)

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2 1

Multilayered GABRIEL & CO.’S BUJUKAN COLLECTION GROWS

HILE THE FOUNDATION of Gabriel & Co.’s Bujukan collection is its delicately feminine bracelets, its offerings have been expanded to include a wider array of enchanting necklaces, earrings, and rings that complement each other and can be styled in a nearly limitless number of combinations. “They’re fun to wear. It’s easy to really customize your own look,” says Nikki Siegel, Gabriel & Co.’s director of fashion sales. The collection’s signature motif of tiny, interconnected spheres is accented by showers of delicate diamonds and colored gemstones. A big part of the collection’s appeal—for retailers as well as consumers—is the stackable nature of the bracelets. Giving shoppers multiple options in 14k white, yellow, and rose gold encourages them to create their own unique, individual look. With the signature beads threaded on a flexible spring wire, each bracelet can be adjusted for a custom fit that beautifully hugs wrists of all sizes. Gabriel & Co.’s proprietary sizing kit ensures that retailers can deliver their customers a bespoke experience. “There’s a lot of movement in the collection. It’s a modern look and effortless to wear.” Siegel says.

1. 2.

THIS BOLD BANGLE is an iconic example of what defines the Bujukan collection: With 11 sparkling diamonds mounted on thin rods and framed by the collection’s signature gold beads, this powerful and feminine cuff can stand on its own as a statement piece as well as be the inspiration for a unique stack. (MSRP $2,985) LAYERING isn’t just for bracelets: This understated choker would be a lovely adornment on its own, or it could play a supporting role showcasing a bold and bright Bujukan pendant. By offering a variety of lengths in pendant, collar, and choker styles, this collection encourages shoppers to think in multiples—a boon for retailers. (MSRP $695)

THIS PLAYFUL RING, with an exotic flash of sparkling diamonds, adopts a sinuous, sensuous wraparound style that hugs the wearer’s finger, while the two-tone yellow and white gold setting adds a touch of whimsy. (MSRP $1,400)

LIKE ALL OF THE EARRINGS in the Bujukan collection, this brand-new style is lightweight and comfortable. They move freely—and noiselessly—so the delicate hoops can catch the light. (MSRP $980)

the industry authority

MARCH 2020

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK Antoine Abeddy Date & Time dateandtimema.com

GOOD TIMES At Antoine Abeddy’s Boston-adjacent Date & Time salon, selling is a fundamentally social experience

W BY EMILI VESILIND

HAT DO I have to do to get the guy off his couch and into the car to drive to see me and buy things from me?” asks Antoine Abeddy, co-owner of Date & Time, a fine jewelry and watch boutique located in Sudbury, Mass., a suburb of Boston. “It’s a simple question, and I need to answer it every day.” And most days, he says, the answer boils down to one thing: “Create a great shopping experience.” Abeddy started Date & Time in 2019 with Fredrick “Freddy” Beshara (who runs the store with Abeddy) and New York City–based owners Michael Herman and Robert Ronen, founders of the Manhattan fine jewelry and lifestyle store Material Good. Nailing the boutique’s chic atmosphere and high-touch customer service remains paramount for all involved: “If we don’t provide a great experience, we’re like everyone else,” Abeddy says.

JCKONLINE.COM

Shop Talk

INNOVATIVE RETAILER “We don’t ask for the sale. We don’t sell prices—we sell jewelry pieces.” —Antoine Abeddy

Pearlmaster 39 Oyster Perpetual Datejust in 18k Everose gold with diamond bezel and diamond-set aubergine dial; price on request; Rolex; 800-36ROLEX; rolex.com

The stunning 6,000-square-foot salon, designed by Boston architecture firm Studio Troika, is full of visual and experiential delights, including a store concierge, a piano bar, distinct Rolex and bridal jewelry salons, and access to an on-site watchmaker certified in repairs by the Swiss American Watchmakers Training Alliance. “There’s so much to do in the marketing realm with a business,” Abeddy muses. “But at the end of the day, if you don’t have that in-store wow factor, it’s not going to work.” What’s the elevator pitch for Date & Time? I was friends with Michael and Robert before, and loved what they did with Material Good. We thought there was a good opportunity to open a store like that in this area. I think it’s an underserved region when it comes to timepieces and jewelry. We conceptualized the store as a place to sell jewelry, timepieces, and also art in an environment that was unique. MARCH 2020

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have a glass of Champagne or scotch, we bring jewelry out, and we socialize. We mix up brands that people know with brands people don’t know; we’re trying to expose them to new things and new brands. We’ve introduced several brands to the area, including Messika and Pomellato. These are brands our clients previously had to go to New York or Europe to get.

You’ve said the store’s customer service hinges on pairing clients with the right salespeople. How do you do this? Freddy and I are on-site all the time. We know our staff and we talk to every client who walks in. If I feel I’m busy, I know who to pair a customer with. Also, we pay attention to very small details, from gift-wrapping to what the customer is drinking. Listen, I go out of my way to go to Ikea and spend three hours buying things I don’t need. Why do I do this? It’s the experience that I like. And we try to create experiences. After we

opened, we had a five-course Italian dinner at the store with 40 clients that featured a pianist and a cocktail event at the beginning. We had jewelry that matched with each course and wine. It was a blast. At midnight, I was kicking people out. What’s the Date & Time shopping experience like? When we designed our cases, we designed them so we are on the same side of the case as the clients; there’s no over-the-case salesmanship. We all walk around the store together. When people are ready, we sit them down, they

How does the store’s layout facilitate a unique retail experience? We set up the store with different areas. We can have six different groups shopping that are isolated from one another. It provides some privacy, and you never feel like someone’s looking over your shoulder. People are relaxed. They’re not being pushed or rushed. We don’t ask for the sale. We don’t sell prices—we sell jewelry pieces.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.

JCKONLINE.COM

2/14/20 11:25 AM

Rand & Paseka

Shop Talk

Proudly Made in the U.S.A. Since 1951

WEDDED BLITZ BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: What bridal styles will you be investing in this year, and what are your bridal clients asking for? a: For 2020, engagement

rings are trending toward simplicity with special simple details, often with a vintage flair. We expect solitaire rings— non-halo—to be the most soughtafter, but halos are still quite popular in various shapes, from simple rounds to hexagonal- and octagonal-shape halos. Threestone rings are not as sought-after and come in third, but they must be represented in any full assortment. We produce all of these styles as part of our Roslyn collection, which is designed and manufactured in-house.

a: Bridal clients want to see

MATTHEW ROSENHEIM PRESIDENT TINY JEWEL BOX Washington, D.C. tinyjewelbox.com

a: We always have our eyes

World’s Largest & Finest Collection Of Religious Jewelry

JCK Las Vegas Booth #50006 516-867-1500 800-229-0006 sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com

ADAM GORMAN CO-OWNER I.GORMAN Washington, D.C. igorman.com

DEBBIE FOX OWNER FOX FINE JEWELRY Ventura, Calif. foxfinejewelry.com

wide open for unique engagement ring designs that buck convention. This year, we’re going to focus on more fancy-shape center diamonds in both delicate and more substantial sizes. Yellow gold is very strong right now and growing, as well as our vintage-style rings. We’re also foreseeing alternative cuts as a new look for the year.

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

the latest trends. It’s important to have enough of them so your store is perceived as current. But in the end, most don’t choose the latest trend! That said, there are clear shifts to ovals, white gold with rose and yellow accents, and original halos. And the largest shift is to custom.

KATE MALLER OWNER KATE MALLER JEWELRY Denver katemaller.com

a: Alternative engagement

rings are huge for us right now. This lends itself to using less traditional stones like colored or opaque diamonds, which we love! We find that alternative stones have such individual character and beauty, and our clients appreciate that too. Currently, we’re working on a whole new series of engagement rings with colored diamonds. We’ve also been getting a lot of interest [in]— and a positive response to—our asymmetrical designs, so we plan to roll more of those out in the new year as well. JCKONLINE.COM

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY JCK NEWS DAILY – A ROUNDUP OF OUR BEST STORIES DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX EACH DAY. Breaking news, industry insights and practical advice for the jewelry trade. With all original, not aggregated content, the JCK News Daily newsletter is the industry’s true, business-to-business news source.

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SHOP TALK

CAUSES TO CELEBRATE

Lorelei diamond and ruby flip ring in 18k white gold; $4,100; heartsonfire.com

PHILANTHROPY INC. Hearts On Fire’s ongoing partnership with Girls Inc. is a stellar role model for the inaugural Diamonds Do Good Jewelry Awards

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

HOF’s executive team with the girls who helped design and manufacture the Girls Inc. jewelry

MARCH 2020

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Lorelei diamond and ruby floral station necklace in 18k white gold; $17,500

“Retailers are always telling us they need something to talk about at the counter.”

N 2018, EXECUTIVES at oston-based diamond jewelry B manufacturer Hearts On Fire decided that instead of simply describing the company as “a brand by and about women,” they needed to show it. And what better way to prove their commitment to women than by partnering with Girls Inc., a national organization dedicated to serving underprivileged girls across North America? Hearts On Fire’s involvement with the nonprofit “started off with the basics: volunteerism and financial support,” says Trisha Spillane, senior director of public relations and marketing for Chow Tai Fook North America, which owns both Hearts On Fire and Memoire. “But we didn’t want to just write a check.” In September 2018, the brand extended its relationship to include a

—Trisha Spillane

capsule collection codesigned by four girls, ages 14 to 17, from the organization’s chapter in nearby Lynn, Mass. “We took them through the entire jewelry-making process over the course of six lengthy sessions, from concept to design to CAD to prototype phase to how are we going to market this? How are we going to sell this? How are we going to get a celebrity to wear this?” Spillane recalls. “At the first session, we did different activities to make sure they felt comfortable with us. They literally drew circles and pulled imagery out of magazines and created their own mood boards. It was so cool.” The resulting collection, formally unveiled on International Women’s Day, March 8, 2019, included a few surprising details suggested by the girls, including Hearts On Fire’s first use of rubies (a nod to Girls Inc.’s red logo) and its first movable piece, a flip ring

with rubies on one side and diamonds on the other. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the collection helps fund more Girls Inc. programs. “A lot of media have picked up on the initiative,” Spillane says. “It’s been really buzzy.” Readers, take note. JCK, in partnership with Diamonds Do Good, recently announced the inaugural Diamonds Do Good Jewelry Awards honoring members of the jewelry industry who’ve made charitable giving a successful and sustainable part of their business. The winner(s) will be featured in the magazine’s June issue and feted at the Diamonds Do Good gala June 1 during the JCK Las Vegas show. If you can provide an example of how a philanthropic endeavor has been good for your business, please consider entering. All you need to do is answer a few simple questions and submit hi-res imagery to support your application. The deadline for entering is March 12. Go to jcklasvegas2020.com/ diamondsdogood for more information. And take it from Spillane: “Retailers are always telling us they need something to talk about at the counter,” she says. We’re all ears! JCKONLINE.COM

2/14/20 11:28 AM

a glittering new destination THE CROWNING JEWEL IN THE SOUTH FLORIDA MARKET, METRO MALL MIAMI WILL BE THE CHOICE DESTINATION FOR JEWELRY WHOLESALERS, RETAILERS AND CONSUMERS. WITH ITS BEAUTIFULLY REIMAGINED ARCHITECTURE AND INTERIORS, ELEVATED AMENITIES, AND HIGH VISIBILITY, THIS IS DESTINED TO BE THE HEART OF THE DOWNTOWN JEWELRY DISTRICT. DISCOVER MORE AT METROMALLMIAMI.COM

now leasing Be part of the most brilliant new addition to Downtown Miamiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jewelry district. Call Isis Pellegrino at 786.534.8550 or email at leasing@metromallmiami.com SITE LOCATION: 1 NE 1ST STREET, MIAMI, FL 33132 786.464.9191

SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

“Brian and I just took over the Kingston Waterfront Business Association,” says Mikula. “A lot of cool things are going to be happening to draw people down here.”

FACETS OF EARTH

A jewelry designer creates a home for herself and other artists she admires in Kingston’s waterfront Rondout– West Strand Historic District BY LORI WHITE

Pretty-as-a-peacock jewels from Hudson Valley, N.Y.–based Rachel Atherley MARCH 2020

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22 BROADWAY KINGSTON, N.Y.

KNEW THAT I wanted to be by the water, even though this isn’t a high-foot-traffic area. The energy here is really amazing,” says Morgan Mikula, jewelry designer and owner of Facets of Earth, her retail shop and studio. The store/ studio is steps away from Rondout Creek, a tributary of the Hudson River. It’s a bustling area in the warmer months, with many visitors to the restaurants, art galleries, and boutiques. But in winter, humans are few and far between. And Mikula is the only independent jeweler for miles.

TAKING THE LEAP Mikula graduated from Indiana University of Pennsylvania with a bachelor’s in fine arts in jewelry and metalsmithing, then started working as a polisher at Jared the Galleria of Jewelry in Pittsburgh. Creating her own designs was always the goal—as was moving to New York, which she and husband Brian Donahoe did in 2015. She began doing custom work after arriving in the Hudson Valley and continued creating her own designs while working for Hudson Valley Goldsmith, an independent jeweler in New Paltz, N.Y. As her private clientele grew, she realized that JCKONLINE.COM

2/14/20 11:30 AM

55 Pieces by Atherley, Mikula, Marion Cage, Annette Ferdinandsen, Anthony Lent, and Sarah Swell

Atherley’s Moss Aquamarine Caviar Scoop necklace

“The Hudson Valley is kind of a mecca for jewelry designers.” —Morgan Mikula

ikula’s “balancing board. I tell him my vision, and he M makes it happen.” The shop’s high ceilings and multiple windows make for an airy, light-filled space that seems to walk hand-in-hand with creativity.

THE GEM WALL

she needed to “take the leap” and create a studio and shop where people could purchase not only her work, but also the work of other artists. She stocks Hudson Valley–based designers Rachel Atherley, Sherri Cohen, Paloma Mele, Annette Ferdinandsen, and Judi Powers, among others, as well as ceramics by Cheyenne Malo, Kelly + Jones fragrances and candles, and block-printed canvas bags by San Francisco–based Julia Canright.

A LITTLE HELP FROM HER HUSBAND Mikula and Donahoe make a good team. A shipwright with the Hudson River Maritime Museum a few blocks from the shop, Donahoe built the maple bar that runs the perimeter of Mikula’s open bench area as well as the black walnut and glass cases that are home to all the treasures. While Donahoe is not a part of the day-to-day, he is JCKONLINE.COM

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The Tucson gem shows are an annual event for Mikula, and the stones she procures are displayed on the gem wall in her shop. “I’m really drawn to the unique stones. It doesn’t have to be something really gemmy and crystal clear,” Mikula says. The showcased finds range from raw e meralds, opalized Indonesian wood, color-changing sapphire, and American pietersite to vibrant Fordite, a man-made material also known as Detroit agate, which comprises layers of hardened paint that dripped down when Ford Motor Co. used to spray-paint its cars. “The hardened paint is sliced and then cut into cabs,” she says.

A custom engagement ring with a black diamond center

LOOKING AHEAD Past the gem wall is a comfy chair strewn with a necklace and Barbie belonging to 5-year-old Avery, Mikula and Donahoe’s sweet daughter who is a regular at the shop. With Facets, Mikula has created “a different approach to a full-service jeweler. A more modern take.” The designer is clearly in her element. “There are a lot of great jewelry designers in the Hudson Valley. I really love offering a home to those designers.” Mikula has plans to expand Facets, but is mum on the details. For now.

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

MARCH 2020

2/14/20 11:30 AM

The Niche A unique and intimate event for the jewelry industry featuring on-trend merchandise for the Spring and Summer selling seasons.

APRIL

TUESDAY, APRIL 28 - THURSDAY, APRIL 30, 2020 MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER | MIAMI BEACH, FL REGISTER TO ATTEND OR APPLY TO EXHIBIT AT

JISSHOW.COM/APRIL

the industry authority

MARCH 2020

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK

3 4

SUNSET TRIP 1/ Cirque Vertical Arrow necklace with citrine, tourmaline, garnet, and beryl in 14k yellow gold; $1,430; Jane Taylor Fine Jewelry; 413-687-3153; janetaylor.com

2/ Coral Opal Ocean ring with lab-grown opal, tourmaline, sapphires, amethyst, and diamonds in 18k rose gold vermeil; $3,550; Anabela Chan; sales@ anabelachan.com; anabelachan.com

3/ Double Shamanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eye earrings with pink tourmaline and multicolored sapphires in 14k yellow gold; $12,450; Marlo Laz; sales@marlolaz.com; marlolaz.com

4/ Gem Dior ring with spessartite garnet, sapphires, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Dior Fine Jewelry; 800-929-DIOR; dior.com

Dazzling palettes of pink, orange, and yellow mimic natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nightly masterpiece BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

5/ Fire opal and tourmaline Gemmy Gem earrings in 18k white and rose gold with diamonds; $21,820; Irene Neuwirth; 310-566-6660; ireneneuwirth.com

JCKONLINE.COM

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2/14/20 11:33 AM

the look

RED CARPET

PUFF LOVE Big sleeves were a big deal at the 2020 Golden Globe Awards BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

CATE BLANCHETT

Are they sleeves? Are they wings? Oh, who cares when the effect is so fabulous! Blanchett was completely captivating in a bejeweled buttery yellow Mary Katrantzou spring 2020 gown. And she didn’t let the embellishments stop her from accessorizing. Her Pomellato pieces included a multicolored diamond ring, gemstone drop earrings, a diamond cuff, and—wait for it—an aquamarine necklace wrapped around her wrist.

DAKOTA FANNING

Kaitlin Dever, Da’Vine Joy Randolph, and Jodie Comer were just a few of the actresses sporting poufy princess-style short sleeves at the Globes, but none looked as princess-ish as Fanning in this Christian Dior Haute Couture confection. Fresh off a gritty turn as Squeaky Fromme in Once Upon a Time…in Hollywood, Fanning was pretty in purple—and it seems she received the necklace memo currently circulating among award attendees. Rose Dior Bagatelle soft necklace in white gold and diamonds; price on request; Dior Fine Jewelry; 800-929DIOR; dior.com

Tango 18k rose gold and white diamond cuff; $117,600; Pomellato; 800-254-6020; pomellato.com

UNDER $20,000

MiaLuce pavé Flex’It bracelet with 1.31 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold; $17,140; Fope; fopeusa@fope.com; fope.com

MARCH 2020

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Infinity cuff in mixed-metal finish; $169; Swarovski; 800-426-3088; swarovski.com

UNDER $200

BLANCHETT: DANIELE VENTURELLI/WIREIMAGE; FANNING: JENNIFER BLOC/GEISLER-FOTOPRESS/PICTURE-ALLIANCE/DPA/AP

UNDER $150,000 Prato Fiorito necklace in 18k white gold with 22.78 cts. t.w. diamonds; $133,375; Gismondi 1754; 786-351-9561; gismondi1754.com

Daisy Diamond choker with labgrown and simulated diamonds and freshwater pearls in 18k gold and rhodium vermeil; £2,600 ($3,387); Anabela Chan; sales@anabelachan. com; anabelachan.com

UNDER $5,000

JCKONLINE.COM

2/14/20 11:35 AM

the look

Q&A

Asks...

PAMELA LOVE

The NYC-based designer’s new collection will be the centerpiece of piercing parties everywhere JUST WHEN YOU thought you had enough holes in your ears, think again. Pamela Love recently released a piercing collection, and it’s everything you’d expect: studs, hoops, and huggies featuring her signature motifs—think swords, hearts, stars and moons, fish and snakes—and stones such as lapis, opal, and diamonds, all in rich 14k yellow gold. As she recently said on Instagram, “New year, new ear.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 37 Number of years in the biz: 12 Number of employees you oversee: Eight Family and pets: My husband, Matthew, and our cat, Mungo [pictured ]. Describe your personal style: Eclectic. First piece you ever designed: A pinky ring with my dad. The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: I have a new favorite every month! I suppose I’m most proud of the five-spike earrings; I designed them in 2009, and they have really stood the test of time and are still one of our most iconic and popular styles. MARCH 2020

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Journey bracelet with pink opal beads and hand-carved brass charms

Crescent Cluster stud with diamonds and Floating Opal Clicker (sold individually)

Favorite gemstone(s): Opal. Best piece of advice you ever received: “Treat everyone the way you would like to be treated.” Worst piece of advice: “Become a chiropractor.” First job ever: Blockbuster Video. How did you get started designing jewelry? Even as a little kid I was designing jewelry with beads and string and clay and seashells. If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? Filmmaker. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: I just came from boxing, so not much aside from studs/hoops in every hole in my ears—we recently launched our first piercing collection and I have loaded up my ears. I have 12 holes in my ears. Five items on your desk right now: A basket I bought in Guatemala, a strand of baroque pearls, a candle, a cactus, photo booth photos of me and Matthew. Five songs on your playlist: “In the Aeroplane Over the Sea,” Neutral Milk Hotel; “Dancing on My Own,” Robyn; “A Change Is Gonna Come,” Sam Cooke; “Time Fades Away,” Neil Young; “Danny Nedelko,” Idles. Exercise regimen: Boxing three to four times a week. What did you have for breakfast? Egyptian licorice tea. Drink (daytime/evening): Mint tea/Recess CBD seltzer. First website you check every day (not your own!): The New York Times. Scent: I love the face oil from Costa Brazil. I don’t need perfume when I wear this. Also Tata Harper Hydrating Floral Essence. How do you unwind? A bath and a movie with Matt and Mungo. Favorite place you’ve discovered in your travels: Suriname is the most amazing country. I could have spent forever in the Amazon. Book you’re reading: Inner Engineering by Sadhguru. Book you’ve been meaning to get to: Let My People Go Surfing by Yvon Chouinard. Favorite movie: Great Expectations [pictured] is one of my favorites. Who would play you in your life story? That’s so hard! I’m a huge fan of Rachel Weisz [pictured ]. I also love Liv Tyler. Personal motto: “If you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go with others.”

WEISZ: JORDAN STRAUSS/INVISION/AP; GREAT EXPECTATIONS: EVERETT; BOXING GLOVES: GIZELKA/GETTY

Five-spike earrings in 18k yellow gold with blue sapphires

JCKONLINE.COM

2/14/20 11:38 AM

3OHDVH .LQGO\ YLVLW XV DW ,-2 &RORUDGR 6SULQJV -$ -,6 VKRZ

STYLING: DANIEL EDLEY/WALTER SCHUPFER; HAIR: NICOLAS ELDIN FOR MILK SHAKE HAIR/ ART DEPARTMENT; MAKEUP: CHARLOTTE DAY FOR KEVYN AUCOIN/ART DEPARTMENT; MANICURE: ROSEANN SINGLETON USING CHANEL/ART DEPARTMENT

Small curvy hoop earrings in 18k white gold with 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,170, Paige Novick, 212-252-1441, paigenovick.com; Tail Feather 14k white gold necklace with 6.58 ct. tanzanite and 1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $9,999, Brecken Farnsworth/ParlÃ© Jewelry Designs, 800-635-9800, parlegems.com

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FEATURES Photograph by Jason Kim

2/14/20 11:40 AM

2020

JEWELRY AWARDS THE WINNERS

S E E W H AT R E TA I L E R S R E WA R D E D I N C AT E G O R I E S S U C H A S B E S T B R I D A L D E S I G N , FA S H I O N / B R I D G E , S TAT E M E N T P I E C E , A N D M O R E . P L U S : 5 J C K E D I TO R S A N D 7 I N S TA G R A M I N F L U E N C E R S C H O O S E T H E I R F AV O R I T E J E W E L S .

Photograph by Jason Kim Stylist Daniel Edley Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi

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2/14/20 11:40 AM

DRESS: VERSACE

Tail Feather 14k white gold necklace with 6.58 ct. tanzanite and 1 ct. t.w. diamonds; $9,999; Brecken Farnsworth/ParlĂŠ Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

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2/14/20 11:40 AM

66 • FASHION/BRIDGE •

Black Jewel pendant necklace with black agate and diamond in 18k gold–plated sterling silver; $179; Ary D’Po; 909-345-5885; arydpo.com

• BEST BRIDAL DESIGN •

OVER $10,000

Double-Row Robin setting with 5.02 ct. Asscher-cut diamond and 0.08 mm round faceted diamond melee; $268,000; Marisa Perry Atelier; 212-566-8977; marisaperry.com

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$5,001–$10,000

18k yellow and platinum ring with 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,200 (without center stone); Atelier by Noam Carver; 514-381-1589; noamcarver.com

$2,501–$5,000

14k white and rose gold diamond Nova engagement ring; $3,400 (without center stone); Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com

$2,500 & UNDER

14k white gold and diamond oval halo contemporary engagement ring; $2,500 (without center stone); Gabriel & Co.

(PREVIOUS PAGE) X 18K WHITE GOLD EARRINGS WITH 0.26 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $1,180, ROBERTO COIN, 212-486-4545, ROBERTOCOIN.COM; RECTANGLE RING IN 14K WHITE GOLD WITH 0.17 CT. WHITE QUARTZ CENTER STONE AND 0.37 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $1,550, EF COLLECTION, 323-952-6065, EFCOLLECTION.COM; 18K WHITE GOLD RING WITH 1.47 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS, $3,962, CIRARI, 212-764-2823, CIRARI.COM; 14K ROSE GOLD RING WITH 0.23 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $695, OWN YOUR STORY, 571-435-7717, OWNYOURSTORY.US; 18K WHITE GOLD BRACELET WITH 4.93 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS, $11,968, CIRARI; STERLING SILVER SCATTERED RING WITH 0.12 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $298, ADINA REYTER, 213-688-8313, ADINAREYTER.COM

$500 & UNDER

OVER $500

24k gold and oxidized silver rectangular black tourmaline rutilated quartz earrings with emerald- and step-cut diamonds in 18k white gold bezel; $3,150; Lika Behar Collection; 201-933-7200; likabehar.com

2/19/20 12:57 PM

JEWELRY AWARDS

• BEST PRICE POINT •

$501–$1,000

14k yellow gold Ethiopian opal and 0.08 ct. t.w. diamond celestial 16- to 18-inch necklace; $924; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com

$500 & UNDER

Silver Victorian ring; $175; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com

• DIAMOND JEWELRY •

$2,500 & UNDER

14k white gold and diamond Lusso ring; $1,445; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com

OVER $2,500

Ring with 4 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $3,867; Goldstar Jewellery LLC; 212-391-2021; goldstarjewellery.com

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2/14/20 11:51 AM

• BEST BRACELET DESIGN •

OVER $2,500 (TIE)

Larger Than Life fancy-shape diamond bracelet; $700,000; Norman Silverman Diamonds; 213-687-3985; normansilverman.com

OVER $2,500 (TIE)

4.36 cts. t.w. round brilliant diamonds pavé-set on a 14k gold Cuban link bracelet; $8,100; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

$2,500 & UNDER

14k yellow gold hammer-finished scallop-edged 8 mm narrow vine leaf bracelet with 0.1 ct. t.w. pavé-set diamonds; $2,125; I. Reiss; 516-482-7900; ireiss.com

• MEN’S JEWELRY •

OVER $1,000

Lapel pin with 3.09 ct. free-form Lightning Ridge black opal in diamonds and gold; $14,995; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

$1,000 & UNDER

7 mm ring in 14k rose gold and carbon fiber; $999; Malo Creations; 450-682-6561; malobands.com

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2/14/20 11:51 AM

JEWELRY AWARDS

• PLATINUM JEWELRY •

$10,000 & UNDER

10 mm laser-engraved platinum and carbon fiber ring; $3,999; Malo Creations; 450-682-6561; malobands.com

OVER $10,000

Platinum Art Deco–style floral bracelet with rubies, diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds; $58,125; Michael Schofield & Co.; 800-637-4361; michaelschofield.com

• MIXED METAL JEWELRY •

$1,000 & UNDER

14k yellow and green gold bamboo-inspired bypass ring; $395; Maui Divers Jewelry; 808-946-7979; mauidivers.com

OVER $1,000

Platinum and 18k yellow gold earrings with 12.94 cts. t.w. fancy yellow pear-shape diamonds, 5.16 cts. t.w. round diamonds, and 1.4 cts. t.w. oval diamonds; $640,000; Rahaminov Diamonds; 213-622-9866; rahaminov.com

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2/14/20 11:51 AM

• PERSONALIZED JEWELRY • ( beads , charms , messaging , inspirational )

ALL PRICE POINTS

14k yellow gold personalized laser enamel photo pendant with 2 cts. t.w. diamond bezel; $6,000; Mitchell K. Jewelry; 833-7992738; mitchellkdesigns.com

• COLORED STONE JEWELRY •

OVER $10,000

Headdress earrings with 9.53 cts. t.w. blue-green tourmaline, 8.07 cts. t.w. citrine, and 0.9 ct. t.w. diamonds; $23,575; Graziela; 800-961-1170; grazielagems.com

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$2,501–$10,000

Plique-à-jour enamel butterfly brooch with diamonds and blue sapphire cabochons in 18k gold; $7,500; Nicole Barr; 877-810-7312; nicolebarr.com

$2,500 & UNDER (TIE)

14k rose gold pink multi-gemstone and 0.125 ct. t.w. diamond bar necklace; $1,059; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com

$2,500 & UNDER (TIE)

Ring with 0.6 ct. t.w. invisible round diamond halo and 6 ct. emerald-cut peachy-pink morganite; $1,600; Anye Designs; 213-372-5260; anyedesigns.com

2/14/20 11:51 AM

JEWELRY AWARDS

• SILVER JEWELRY •

• COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY •

25 26

OVER $1,000

Italian silver hinge bangle with 14k yellow gold accents and 0.33 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,999; PiyaRo by Aiya Designs; 888-427-8886; aiyadesigns.com

$1,000 & UNDER

Green Goddess pendant with peridot center stone and multicolored fired enamel in rhodium-plated sterling silver; $250; Nicole Barr; 877-810-7312; nicolebarr.com

• TANZANITE JEWELRY •

OVER $10,000

Fancy light yellow diamond earrings; $48,015; Novel Collection; 212-869-6035; novel-collection.com

GRAND PRIZE WINNER

ALL PRICE POINTS

Tail Feather 14k white gold necklace with 6.58 ct. tanzanite and 1 ct. t.w. diamonds; $9,999; Brecken Farnsworth/ Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

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2/14/20 11:51 AM

• BEST EARRING DESIGN •

OVER $10,000

18k rose gold removable and interchangeable drop earrings with 27.72 cts. t.w. aquamarines, 27.12 cts. t.w. beryl, and 5.32 cts. t.w. diamonds; $17,000; Ricardo Basta Fine Jewelry; 310-2784792; ricardobasta.com

$5,001–$10,000

One-of-a-kind Geode Cascade earrings with hand-set micro-pavé diamonds in 14k rose gold; $9,998; Liven Co.; 213-293-6088; livenco.com

$5,000 & UNDER

Paperclip Drop Link earrings in 14k yellow gold with 0.17 ct. t.w. diamonds; $680; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

• PEARL JEWELRY •

OVER $2,500

18k rose and yellow gold Ella earrings with 12.5 mm golden South Sea pearls, 11 mm Tahitian pearls, 9.5 mm Australian white pearls, pink sapphires, white diamonds, and 18k yellow gold and pink sapphire dagger on 18k yellow gold and white diamond hoops; $21,840; Rosa Van Parys Jewelry; 818-928-4430; rosavanparys.com

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$2,500 & UNDER

Jackie pearl hoop earrings with graduating freshwater pearls in 14k yellow gold; $480; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

2/14/20 11:51 AM

JEWELRY AWARDS

• LAB-GROWN DIAMOND AND/OR GEMSTONE JEWELRY •

ALL PRICE POINTS

14k white gold 0.375 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamond negative-space ring; $1,194; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com

• GOLD JEWELRY •

OVER $2,500

Leaf Spinning Globe with 260 pavé-set diamonds in 22k gold; $19,500; Susan Gordon Jewelry; 212-763-0866; susangordon.com

$2,500 & UNDER

Candle lantern in 14k gold with enamel; $2,176; Tekin Seyrekoğlu Jewelry; seyrekoglu@seyrekoglu.com; seyrekoglu.com

• CONTEMPORARY METAL JEWELRY •

ALL PRICE POINTS

Black titanium domed wedding band with salt-and-pepper diamonds and braided gold edges; $500; Thorsten; 888-209-4757; thorstenrings.com

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2/14/20 11:51 AM

• BEST NECKLACE DESIGN •

OVER $2,500 (TIE)

$2,500 & UNDER

Fancy-shape diamond necklace; $300,000; Norman Silverman Diamonds; 213-687-3985; normansilverman.com

Starry Nights necklace with 6.74 ct. moon-shape Australian boulder opal, 1.17 ct. trillion tanzanite, and diamond-encrusted star charms in 14k yellow gold; $9,995; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

• BEST STATEMENT PIECE •

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Eye of Protection necklace with black onyx, mother-ofpearl, and brilliant and baguette diamonds; $860; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

$10,000 & OVER

One-of-a-kind diamond peacock brooch with 8.53 ct. pear-shape fancy vivid yellow Zimmi diamond and 47.38 cts. t.w. diamonds; $1,900,000; StarYou; 852-2525-4555; staryougroup.com

2/14/20 11:51 AM

JEWELRY AWARDS

• BEST RING DESIGN •

OVER $10,000

18k gold ring with 1.12 ct. fancy yellow pear-shape, 1.01 ct. fancy pink pear-shape, and 7.01 cts. t.w. white diamonds; $45,000; Novel Collection; 212-869-6035; novel-collection.com

$2,500 & UNDER

$5,001–$10,000 (TIE)

Twinning ring with 5.49 cts. t.w. lotus garnets and round brilliant diamonds in 14k rose gold; $9,395; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

Eden double chevron ring with 0.71 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $1,640; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

$2,501–$5,000

10 mm 14k white gold and carbon fiber ring with round diamonds; $2,999; Malo Creations; 450-682-6561; malobands.com

$5,001–$10,000 (TIE) 14k yellow gold wide band ring with 4 ct. bicolor tourmaline and 0.72 ct. t.w. diamonds; $9,999; Ande Jewelry; 626-626-8799; andejewelry.com

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JEWELRY AWARDS

EDITORS’ CHOICE WINNERS EDITORS

Victoria Gomelsky, Melissa Rose Bernardo, Emili Vesilind, Amy Elliott, Brittany Siminitz

Lab-Grown Diamond and/or Gemstone Jewelry

14k white gold with 0.375 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamond negative-space ring; $1,194; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com

Best Earring Design

One-of-a-kind Geode Cascade earrings with hand-set micro-pavé diamonds in 14k rose gold; $9,998; Liven Co.; 213-293-6088; livenco.com

Pearl Jewelry

Colored Stone Jewelry

Contemporary Metal Jewelry

Tanzanite Jewelry

Platinum Jewelry

Gold Jewelry

Mixed Metal Jewelry

Mother Ship ring with a 19.24 ct. tanzanite cabochon, 2.46 cts. t.w. red spinels, and 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $13,000; Ricardo Basta Fine Jewelry; 310-278-4792; ricardobasta.com

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Platinum ring with 3.86 cts. t.w. baguette diamonds and 0.26 ct. t.w. round brilliant diamonds; $24,600; Jye’s International; 415-621-8880; jyescorp.com

Headdress earrings with 9.53 cts. t.w. blue-green tourmaline, 8.07 cts. t.w. citrine, and 0.9 ct. t.w. diamonds; $23,575; Graziela; 800-961-1170; grazielagems.com

Grand Castle bracelet in 18k rose gold with malachite and white diamonds; $9,700; Veniroe; 949-715-1602; veniroe.com

Titanium crosshatch sculpted wedding band with braided gold edges; $250; Thorsten; 888-209-4757; thorstenrings.com

22k yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver Aurora hammered band with 0.11 ct. t.w. diamonds; $790; Lika Behar Collection; 201-933-7200; likabehar.com

2/19/20 1:02 PM

Silver Jewelry

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry

Best Price Point

Best Necklace Design

Colored Diamond Jewelry

Diamond Jewelry

Men’s Jewelry

Best Bridal Design

Personalized Jewelry

Best Bracelet Design

Best Ring Design

Best Statement Piece

Green Goddess pendant with peridot center stone and multicolored fired enamel in rhodium-plated sterling silver; $250; Nicole Barr; 877-810-7312; nicolebarr.com

Shades of Yellow fancy-shape diamond bracelet; $91,000; Norman Silverman Diamonds; 213-687-3985; normansilverman.com

14k yellow gold initial S and A earrings; $284 and $283 each; Stuller

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14k yellow gold–plated sterling silver Hidden Gem necklace with beaded mother-of-pearl and CZ; $79; Ania Haie; 866-256-6151; aniahaie.com

Rising Sun earrings in 18k rose gold with 0.25 ct. t.w. suspended center diamonds and 2.38 cts. t.w. side diamonds; $5,250; Setu Doshi/J.B. Brothers USA; sales@jbbrothersusa.com; jbbrothersusa.com

14k yellow gold and diamond contemporary bangle; $5,820; Gabriel & Co.

14k yellow gold Ethiopian opal and 0.08 ct. t.w. diamond celestial 16- to 18-inch necklace; $924; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com

14k pink gold men’s Art Deco band; $1,725; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com

14k yellow gold wide band ring with 4 ct. bicolor tourmaline and 0.72 ct. t.w. diamonds; $9,999; Ande Jewelry; 626-626-8799; andejewelry.com

Handmade platinum and 24k yellow gold Crescent Moon necklace with 2.9 cts. t.w. white diamonds, 0.65 ct. t.w. fancy pink diamonds, 0.44 ct. pear-shape fancy intense pink diamond, 5.15 ct. oval conch pearl, and 1,020 round brilliant diamonds in the diamond cube chain; $62,500; Joden World Resources; 800-747-7552; joden.com

Double-Row Robin setting with 5.02 ct. Asscher-cut diamond and 0.08 mm round faceted diamond melee; $268,000; Marisa Perry Atelier; 212-566-8977; marisaperry.com

Entwined ring with 5.01 ct. pear-shape white diamond and 5.03 ct. pear-shape fancy yellow diamond in platinum and 18k yellow gold; $296,000; Rahaminov Diamonds; 213-622-9866; rahaminov.com

2/19/20 1:02 PM

JEWELRY AWARDS

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE WINNERS INFLUENCERS

Hannah Becker (@diamondoodles ), Severine Ferrari (@engagement101 ), Benjamin Guttery (@thirdcoastgems ), Danielle Miele (@gemgossip ), Katerina Perez (@katerina_perez ), Erica Silverglide (@gemologygeek ), Becky Stone (@diamondsinthelibrary )

Tanzanite Jewelry

Tail Feather 14k white gold necklace with 6.58 ct. tanzanite and 1 ct. t.w. diamonds; $9,999; Brecken Farnsworth/ Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

Best Bridal Design

Best Earring Design

Pearl Jewelry

Best Ring Design

Colored Stone Jewelry

Colored Diamond Jewelry

Diamond Jewelry

Contemporary Metal Jewelry

18k yellow and platinum ring with 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,200 (without center stone); Atelier by Noam Carver; 514-381-1589; noamcarver.com

Headdress earrings with 9.53 cts. t.w. bluegreen tourmaline, 8.07 cts. t.w. citrine, and 0.9 ct. t.w. diamonds; $23,575; Graziela; 800-961-1170; grazielagems.com

Sleeping Beauty Skies earrings with 12.44 cts. t.w. Sleeping Beauty turquoise, 2.67 cts. t.w. mandarin garnets, 2.12 cts. t.w. Australian opals, and 0.87 ct. t.w. round brilliant diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $9,395; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

Shades of Yellow fancy-shape diamond bracelet; $91,000; Norman Silverman Diamonds; 213-687-3985; normansilverman.com

Rising Sun earrings in 18k rose gold with 0.25 ct. t.w. suspended center diamonds and 2.38 cts. t.w. side diamonds; $5,250; Setu Doshi/J.B. Brothers USA; sales@jbbrothersusa.com; jbbrothersusa.com

14k yellow gold signet ring with 1 mm emerald and Souvenir and floral engraving; $3,250; Heavenly Vices Fine Jewelry; 404-307-1639; heavenlyvices.com

Black titanium domed wedding band with salt-and-pepper diamonds and braided gold edges; $500; Thorsten; 888-209-4757; thorstenrings.com

Personalized Jewelry

Best Price Point

Gold Jewelry

Best Necklace Design

Lab-Grown Diamond and/or Gemstone Jewelry

Men’s Jewelry

Mixed Metal Jewelry

Best Bracelet Design

14k white gold 0.375 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamond negative-space ring; $1,194; Stuller

14k rose gold wedding band with tiger iron inlay and round red rubies; $1,000; Thorsten; 888-209-4757; thorstenrings.com

Best Statement Piece

Platinum Jewelry

Silver Jewelry

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry

14k yellow gold personalized laser enamel photo pendant with 2 cts. t.w. diamond bezel; $6,000; Mitchell K. Jewelry; 833-799-2738; mitchellkdesigns.com

Entwined ring with 5.01 ct. pear-shape white diamond and 5.03 ct. pear-shape fancy yellow diamond in platinum and 18k yellow gold; $296,000; Rahaminov Diamonds

14k yellow gold Ethiopian opal and 0.08 ct. t.w. diamond celestial 16- to 18-inch necklace; $924; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com

Crossover V1500 ring in platinum with free-floating 1 ct. diamond center stone, translucent red corundum inlay, and inside diamond accents; $49,000; Schaffrath; 49-618-167-3060; schaffrath1923.com

Candle lantern in 14k gold with enamel; $2,176; Tekin Seyrekoğlu Jewelry; seyrekoglu@seyrekoglu.com; seyrekoglu.com

Ag+C wide diamond pavé Flexi Cuff in 18k gold–plated sterling silver with black ruthenium and 5.86 cts. t.w. dusky diamonds; $2,700; Nadri; 201-585-0088; nadri.com

Larger Than Life fancy-shape diamond bracelet; $700,000; Norman Silverman Diamonds; 213-687-3985; normansilverman.com

M I X ( M E TA L ) I T U P, F I N D T H E H O O P S O F

S I LV E R YO U R D R E A M S , A N D H AV E A B L A C K E N E D

B E L L ES C E L E B R AT I O N W I T H T H E S E N E W J E W E L S

Photography by Joel Stans S t y l i s t s E m i l y & To n y M u l l i n Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi

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(L. to r.) Enchanted Forest Twig hoops in sterling silver with 0.66 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,200, Michael Aram, 201-758-2551, michaelaram. com; Lucia sterling silver hoops, $265, Jennifer Zeuner, 888-842-4590, jenniferzeuner.com; Vienna chain-link hoop earrings in sterling silver, $295, Judith Ripka, mschrager@ excelbrands.com, judithripka.com

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(From top) Eternity Seven Band Highway ring in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver, $700, Judith Ripka, mschrager@ excelbrands.com, judithripka.com; Bianca 14k yellow goldâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;plated and sterling silver hoops, $198, Jennifer Zeuner, 888-8424590, jenniferzeuner. com; Ranger 24k yellow gold and sterling silver

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bangle, $880, Lika Behar, 201-9337200, likabehar.com; Orchid Cluster ring in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver with 1.22 cts. t.w. diamonds, $2,750, Michael Aram, 201-758-2551, michaelaram.com; Twist cuff with 0.23 ct. t.w. diamonds in 24k yellow gold and sterling silver, $1,940, Lika Behar

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83 Lahar collection extra-large sterling silver cuff with 0.82 ct. t.w. white diamonds and 1.46 cts. t.w. gray diamonds; $4,900; John Hardy; 888-838-3022; johnhardy.com

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2/14/20 11:55 AM

(L. to r.) Long Formation mismatched freshwater pearl earrings with CZ post, $250, Mounser, sales@ mounser.com, mounser.com; Jardin bracelet with mother-of-pearl and 0.32 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamonds, $1,795, Judith Ripka, mschrager@ excelbrands.com, judithripka.com; Donna freshwater pearl hoop earrings in sterling silver with CZ, $110, Carolee, 314-909-1651, carolee.com

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85 (L. to r.) Enchanted Forest Twig bangle with 1.32 cts. t.w. black diamonds in black rhodiumâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;plated sterling silver, $1,750, Michael Aram, 201758-2551, michael aram.com; Diamond Circle drop earrings in ruthenium-plated

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silver with 0.95 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,400, Diamond Wire earrings in 14k yellow gold and rutheniumplated silver with 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,600, Nancy Newberg Jewelry, 310-508-8917, nancynewberg.com

2/14/20 11:55 AM

ADORNED IN THE

USA

W H AT D O E S I T TA K E F O R J E W E L RY TO QUALIFY FOR THE “MADE IN T H E U S A ” L A B E L ? Q U I T E A B I T, J C K LEARNS. IS THE EFFORT WORTH IT?

b y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d Photography by Joel Stans

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2/14/20 11:57 AM

STYLING: EMILY & TONY MULLIN

or as a label itself—if it ships that exact same product to another U.S. state. The FTC’s compliance program dates back to the early 1940s, when it brought a case against the flashlight manufacturer Falcon Lamp Works based on deceptive Made in the USA claims. The FTC has taken the issue seriously ever since. Over the past two decades, the commission has taken 27 court actions against consumer companies it deemed noncompliant with its guidelines, according to agency data. In 2016, FTC lawyers famously told Detroit-based watchmaker Shinola that its ads, which included a Where American Is Made slogan, “overstated the extent” to which its timepieces were manufactured in America. The company ended up dropping the slogan and adopted the less snappy Built in Detroit Using Swiss and Imported Parts—but not before Shinola founder Tom Kartsotis criticized the near-impossible benchmark for American brands. The FTC defends its policies, saying they protect American consumers from fraudulent claims. “Consumers have continued to expect products advertised as Made in the USA to have no more than a minimal amount of imported content,” said Andrew Smith, director of the FTC’s Bureau of Consumer Protection, at H ART META LWOR KS, A small jewelry the September FTC open forum. “We’ve chosen to focus our litigation efforts brand based in Portland, Maine, uses a host of raw materials to fabricate its collecon egregious offenders, while aggressively working to prevent Made in the USA tion, including pewter, bronze, silver, paper, and resin. All are sourced from U.S. misrepresentations by providing extensive guidance and informal feedback to any suppliers based primarily in the Northeast. The company touts its Made in the company that seeks it.” USA status proudly—for proof, see its recently revamped logo, which includes the But critics of the FTC guidelines for jewelry and watches say the rules favor phrase. Chart Metalworks’ website reveals that every piece of its nautical-inspired foreign companies over homegrown ones. And they cite the less restrictive collection uses “U.S.-made hand-cast pieces” and is “made by Maine people.” standards for the Made in the USA designation in place for other industries. Another indie jewelry brand, Brook & York in Old Saybrook, Conn., also The automobile industry, for example, can use the label even when a s ubstantial makes seaside-inspired jewelry. And like Chart Metalworks, it fabricates every percentage of raw materials used in a car originate overseas. And the textile piece of its collection in its local facility, using raw materials sourced exclusively industry can claim U.S. origin if a final product is manufactured in the United from U.S. suppliers. It also says its products are Made in the USA. But a ccording States, regardless of where materials earlier in the manufacturing process (yarn, to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), Brook & York technically cannot fiber, etc.) came from. “The FTC is focusing on the wrong issue,” Hanna insists. make that claim. “The issue is the creativity, the labor, the pride of the American The difference between the two firms boils down to a single worker. Not material origin.” material: gold. According to FTC guidelines passed in 1997, jewelry All of which might lead one to wonder—considering how exceedlabeled Made in the USA or Made in USA must be produced with 18k white gold ingly global the modern jewelry industry is today—about the tangible materials that are “all or virtually all” from America. And gold is not and platinum ring with 4.23 ct. benefits of having a Made in the USA marker. How much of a leg up an American product. Therefore, any jewelry brand that uses gold can’t ruby and 2.47 cts. does the designation give jewelry producers and retailers? be labeled American made. t.w. diamonds, “We’d love to use that Made in the USA terminology in our stores,” The standard, says Mark Hanna, chief marketing officer at the j ewelry $180,000; platinum says Kathy Corey, vice president of merchandising and h uman manufacturer Richline Group, “is technically impossible for precious ring with 9.13 cts. resources at Waterville, Maine–based fine jewelry chain Day’s Jewelers. metals products to achieve.” Hanna has been stumping for the FTC to t.w. diamonds, $92,000; 10.13 ct. “It certainly is an added benefit to closing the sale. It kind of works in rewrite the rules of the Made in the USA designation since 1998 and Sri Lankan sapphire a similar way as the ethical and responsible sourcing issues do. More has written extensively on the issue. He, along with many others in the ring with 1.49 cts. and more, customers want their jewelry to be made and sold by ethiindustry, want to see the policies loosened. “The standards as stated t.w. diamonds in platinum, $164,000; cally responsible companies. And when people see a product is Made need to be updated to match the world, which is global,” he says. in the USA, they assume the chain of custody is ethical.” Tiffany Stevens, president and CEO of the Jewelers Vigilance Oscar Heyman; 800-642-1912; Janice Sears, president of U.S.-made Chart Metalworks, agrees that Committee, agrees. “We’re restricted as an industry right now because oscarheyman.com the designation adds value for both retailers and consumers. “I think every single part of the product has to be made [in] and come from it’s really important and an attractive thing for some people that they America,” she says. know they’re buying American.” A jewelry firm could “employ local people, do design locally, and have a busiHanna is convinced the U.S. origin claim is especially meaningful to m illennial ness where you reform people coming out of the local justice system,” she adds, consumers searching for ethical and responsible companies. The designation, “but you still wouldn’t be Made in the USA if your gold isn’t from here.” he says, “comes with the understanding that the jewelry has been produced by Hanna spoke on the subject at an FTC open forum in Washington, D.C., in American people, using American best practices and ethics.” September. He’d like to see the commission’s standards evolve to allow materials The FTC acknowledged as much in September. “Although Made in the USA that originated overseas but have been “substantially transformed”—such as the is a straightforward claim, how consumers perceive that claim is anything but melting of gold and other precious metals—to be labeled Made in the USA. straightforward,” said the Bureau of Consumer Protection’s Smith. “For example, “The FTC has to recognize that the current rules are a penalty to U.S. manuwhy do consumers want to purchase products that are made in the USA? Does facturers,” he says. it indicate that the company follows Fair Labor Standards or adheres to environThey’re also loaded with irony: A company in the United States can produce a mental protections? Does it mean that the product is of high quality? That the piece of jewelry using gold and gems, and if the firm exports the piece o verseas, manufacturer employs U.S. workers? That the product is safe? That the product is the export paperwork has to say that the jewelry was made in the United healthy? Maybe all of the above.” States. But the company cannot make that same claim on any paperwork—

JCK030120_086_FEAT_MadeUSA2.indd 87

2/14/20 11:57 AM

WH AT’S H A PPENING IN

J C K R E T U R N S TO T H E S A N D S F O R A N OT H E R Y E A R. H E R E’S H OW T O S P E N D Y O U R T I M E W H E N Y O U ’ R E N O T A T T H E S H O W.

by Matt Villano

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PHOTO: TEXT RUNS VERTICAL FROM BASE: 5.5/7PT CAPS

VEGAS 2/14/20 12:19 PM

LIKE A BOTTLE OF FINE WINE, JENNIFER LOPEZ, AND THOSE MEMORIES OF SEX IN YOUR 20s, LAS VEGAS GETS BETTER WITH AGE.

Every year, it seems, Sin City adds new and over-the-top attractions designed to wow, entertain, satiate, and delight visitors who come to have their minds blown. More than 30,000 jewelry industry professionals soon will descend upon Vegas for the annual JCK show. Here’s a rundown on the latest and hottest spots around town to investigate.

PHOTO: TEXT RUNS VERTICAL FROM BASE: 5.5/7PT CAPS

INSIDE THE VENETIAN

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In the olden days of Vegas—like, last year—the Sands Expo Convention Center, where the show takes place, was connected to two separate hotels: the Venetian and the Palazzo. Since then, the parent company has brought the two properties together as separate towers under one name: The Venetian Resort Las Vegas. The mother ship also has added a host of new restaurants and diversions. No. 1 on the list: Majordōmo Meat & Fish (10), a new steakhouse from Chef David Chang of Momofuku fame. The Palazzo Tower eatery opened in the former CarneVino space just before New Year’s Eve and offers steak in several relatively traditional preparations (smoked prime rib is the house specialty). It also serves Korean-inspired

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dishes such as beef short rib with beef rice, ssämjang, kimchi, and bibb lettuce. A sister restaurant, Moon Palace (6), sits across the corridor and serves special sliders named Tastys all night long. These handheld wonders are made with beef patties, American cheese, and caramelized onions served between two Hawaiian rolls. Order two or three with chips and beer (the only other items on the menu), and you’ve locked down the best hangover cure short of an intravenous drip. Die-hard karaoke fans can inquire about the private soundproof room at Majordōmo. For everyone else, there’s Kamu Ultra Karaoke (5), a new 40room multiplex that opened in the Grand Canal Shoppes in early 2020. What makes Kamu stand out is that each room is a party unto itself. Different rooms have different themes, and Chef Chris Oh cranks out popular dishes such as oysters, pizzas, and churro doughnut holes. Of course, the joint has bottle service, too, for those patrons who need booze in order to sing. Elsewhere on property, just off the Venetian lobby, is a new boutique from Dandelion Chocolate (4), a small-batch, bean-to-bar craft chocolatier from San Francisco. While you can swing through here to purchase a single-origin chocolate bar, the real indulgence is a splurge beverage from the list of five hot-chocolate drinks. Who cares if the drink is basically melted chocolate in a cup? Like the advertisements say: What happens to your calorie intake in Vegas stays there. Another food indulgence: the new Sunday (and bottomless dim sum) brunch at Chinese restaurant Mott 32 (9. The menu features family-style dishes such as soup dumplings and Iberico pork buns and everything is cooked to order. Another option: bottomless mimosas for an extra $35 per person. In late 2019 the Sands revamped its Venetian art tour (7), a surprisingly informative two-hour walking tour of all the artwork on-site. On this

KAMU: SHANE O’NEAL; MOON PALACE & MAJORDOMO: ANDREW BEZEK

2/14/20 12:19 PM

7 9 e xcursion, a guide shares stories behind the resort’s replica Italian landmarks, including the Rialto Bridge, Campanile Tower, and St. Mark’s Square. The guide also takes groups through tower lobbies to gawk and marvel at some of the sculptures.

ELSEWHERE AROUND TOWN The spectacles don’t stop there. Perhaps the biggest headline-grabber around town but outside of the Venetian complex is Viva Vision (2), the newly renovated video screen at Fremont Street East. This technology spans five city blocks downtown and comprises more than 49 million energy-efficient LEDs, more than 16 million pixels used to generate brilliant resolution, and 5,000 nits to make the screen seven times brighter than its predecessor. It debuted New Year’s Eve. The best part? Viva Vision is totally free to experience, though you might want to bring money to pose for a photo with a random guy in a Deadpool costume or a full-body, Borat-style banana hammock. Another showstopper: The Mayfair Supper Club at Bellagio (1). The new venue—in the former Hyde Lounge space—combines throwback big band– style entertainment and innovative dining with an epic view of the Fountains at Bellagio. The vibe is exciting and immediate, enticing guests to feel like every moment is something special. The goal: to get you to stick around all night. Lineups at Mayfair change nightly. Happy hour features live piano, caviar specials, and cocktails (try one of the three smoked Old-Fashioned varieties). After dark, male and female vocalists backed by a band perform live jazz. Later in the evening, usually around 10 p.m., a 360-degree light show takes over the restaurant. On weekends, deejays start spinning at around

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11 p.m. and alternate with live performers until the wee hours. The Vanderpump Cocktail Garden (8), inside Caesars Palace, offers a totally different experience. From the mirrored walls to the faux trees out front, the homage to the brand of reality television star Lisa Vanderpump feels utterly contrived. Oddly, however, it still works, because, well, it’s Vegas. Skip the small plates and go straight for the craft cocktails; some come in sizes big enough for two or 10. East of The Strip, the party rages after hours at two bars right on the edge of Chinatown: The Golden Tiki and The Sand Dollar Lounge (3). The Tiki is what you’d expect from the name, only better: tropical drinks, pu pu platters, and kitschy decor that includes shrunken heads of local celebrities and animatronic birds that spew curse words. (If you’re a dude, pay close attention to what the skulls have to say about your manhood at the urinals.) The now smoke-free Sand Dollar is grungy but great for live music; on any given night, a headliner from The Strip might come in after finishing a show to let it rip. For a crash course in the Vegas foodie scene, consider a walking tour with Lip Smacking Foodie Tours, a nascent outfitter run by a former server at some of the best joints in town. Standard experiences range from two and a half to five hours and include four or five different sit-down stops for a signature dish at each. Some of the stops include Bardot Brasserie at Aria and Carson Kitchen downtown. Shorter tours, operated by sister company Finger Licking Foodie Tours, run about two and a half hours and stop at a greater number of venues for smaller bites. As of press time, these tours focused on restaurants in the LINQ Promenade and downtown. Finally, in 2020, we’d be remiss to list the latest and hottest activities in Las Vegas without mentioning at least one cannabis dispensary. New this year: a place where you can try the weed before you buy it. Dubbed The Vegas Tasting Room, the spot is located at the NuWu Cannabis Marketplace, which is owned by the Las Vegas Paiute tribe and located just south of downtown. Here, in the comfort of a loungelike atmosphere, guests can try dabs, a concentrated cannabis resin that is heated before being inhaled. The price: $8 or $9 for one-five-hundredth of a gram. Considering how rare $10 blackjack tables are these days, the dabs represent some of the cheapest hits in town.

2/14/20 12:19 PM

To compensate, Craig has increased outreach substantially to capture potential ITH RECORD LOW unemployment, solid real wage growth, and a booming stock market, many local sales. “We’re concentrating much more on clienteling and producing special jewelers say they’re enjoying the most robust business events to generate foot traffic,” he says. “Last January, I decided we’re going to do one or two each month. When we find new vendors, we do trunk shows. We do a environment they’ve seen in a generation. “In 2019, we had the strongest year in our history,” private holiday party, a tiki party in the middle of summer with a truckload of sand says Sarah Person, owner and president of 40-year- and steel drums, and we did a buying event with an estate company. We’re sending old Exclusively Diamonds in Mankato, Minn. “It’s out mailers for buying gold, and we had a refurbishing show, where people brought allowed us to buy and move into a new 7,300-square- in their jewelry and we offered them custom design.” The store mails event invitations to its top 500 or 2,000 customers and supplements foot store, giving us more of a regional footprint.” Greg Fakier, third-generation owner of Fakier that with substantial social media marketing, concentrating on Facebook, Instagram, Jewelers in Houma, La., says much the same thing. and Twitter. “One event drove $40,000 on just $60 in advertising,” Craig says. “This market has let us build an extensive selection of product people can touch and feel,” he says. “That’s CULTIVATE KEY STAKEHOLDERS been a real good thing. We had a 12% increase [in Even through the good times, hone your relationships with your staff, top clients, sales] for December.” and key vendors, advises Olivia Cornell, president of Cornell’s Jewelers in Rochester, Top economists, however, including those at the N.Y. “You’re going to survive on the top 20% of those relationships,” Cornell says. Federal Open Mar“In 2008 and 2009, we didn’t take salary for ourket Committee of selves, so we didn’t have to lay anybody off. We the Federal Reserve, were then able to work with our staff to review all began to raise concerns in 2019 regarding troubling of our top clients.” economic indicators, especially the rise of shortThe jeweler ranks customers according to their term above longer-term interest rates, a market conloyalty rather than how much they spend. “It’s not dition described as an “inverted yield curve.” This always based on the dollar amount,” Cornell says. condition, which suggests that people believe the “I have this one client who always comes in with a economy is dimmer down the road than at present, smile. She tries to come to all our events. She’s not has historically been a predictor of recession. always a big spender. But she’s special because she “I’m not Chicken Little, but the next downturn supports us and is excited and loyal to us.” is inevitable,” warns Erik Runyan, owner of Erik The store assesses its vendors similarly. Cornell Runyan Jewelers in Vancouver, Wash., founded in says she’s learned to rely on vendors she can engage 1917. “For those of us who lived through October in honest, open discussions and that execute on and November 2008, just watching our sales volrush deliveries, help promote the store’s collections, umes and the economy in general come apart, there and return calls in a timely manner. P R E PA R E TO W E AT H E R A N Y F I S C A L were a lot of lessons.” STORM WITH THESE TIME-TESTED

CONTROL EXPENSES

GOOD AND READY J E W E L RY R E TA I L S T R AT E G I E S

CREATE A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE

In 2014, when southern Louisiana suffered a deep by Whitney Sielaff crunch in its oil industry, Fakier Jewelers decided Step one when the market goes south, Person says, is to up the ante. “We jumped on the opportunity to immediately intensify expense management. “We Illustration by Rami Niemi to move to a big, beautiful store on a corner,” Greg continually seek to streamline spending,” she says. Fakier says. “That created excitement. And it’s all “Look at everything, and consider how you could about the experience you give the customer.” save money on each line of your expense report.” What’s truly unique about Fakier Jewelers, however, is its wedding pergola. Staffing ranks among the biggest expense lines. “Keep an eye on employee productivity,” Person says. “When someone leaves the organization, can you fill that Fakier built the structure on the bayou that runs behind the store and included a fence fashioned after the tradition at the Pont des Arts bridge in Paris, where position by dividing out their duties to the other existing staff?” Most important of all, Person explains, is controlling owned inventory. “When the couples attach “love locks” to represent their everlasting commitments. Fakier market turns, your inventory needs to change as well,” she says. “People still shop and customers receive their padlocks, install them, and cast their keys into the bayou. “It’s become a thing,” Fakier says. “It’s truly unbelievable. Our customers just love buy. They just can’t afford to buy a $10,000 piece. That becomes a $2,000 purchase. “Focus on ordering fast sellers, and create strong partnerships with suppliers to to put their locks on there and throw away the keys.” stock-balance aged inventory,” she adds. “If your supplier will not take back an aged piece, create a plan to either lower the price or incentivize the staff to sell it.” COMPETE WHERE YOU CAN WIN Smart jewelers have learned it’s difficult or impossible to compete with the majors or online sellers in certain operational categories. When the market softens, says BOOST OUTREACH TO DRIVE REVENUE Bill Craig, owner of Craig’s Fine Jewelry in Ridgefield, Conn., says his market has Runyan, it’s even more important for independents to focus on their core strengths. “After sorting through what happened in 2008, my business model today is very been in decline for several years. He attributes some of the falloff to the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2017, which capped the federal itemized deduction for state income taxes different,” Runyan says. “I didn’t have what I’d call an estate program. Now it’s a at $10,000. As a result, many affluent customers in states with high personal income major department for us. Estate is something a big box or online can’t do like we taxes (e.g., California and the Northeast) bought second homes in low- or no-income- can. We learned how to manufacture money. “The margins there don’t exist anywhere else in the store,” Runyan adds. “How we tax states. Since this requires residency in those homes for more than six months of operate today doesn’t resemble at all what it was 15 years ago.” the year, many are absent during winter, resulting in lost holiday sales for jewelers.

M A S R T RO I RA Y G E

With 21,000 respondents, The Knot’s biennial Jewelry & Engagement Study offers a gold mine of intelligence on recently engaged couples ages 25 to 34. We cherry-picked the best ring-related findings so you don’t have to. by Amy Elliott

F YOU HAVEN’T been on the dating circuit in a while, one figure from wedding planning website The Knot’s 2019 Jewelry & Engagement Study may surprise you: At 22%, a plurality of respondents met on dating apps (up 5% from 2017)—namely, Tinder (30%), OkCupid (14%), and Bumble (13%). As if to put an exclamation point on that, the study also found that 92% of couples share the news of their engagement on social media. The upshot for jewelry retailers? Make sure you’re on the ’Gram and your clients know how to tag you. For other top-level takeaways, see our highlights.

(OPPOSITE PAGE) ROYALT PETITE CRESCENT BLOOM VARIETAL COLLECTION RINGS, $3,495–$5,145 (WITHOUT CENTER STONES), TACORI.COM; (THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP L.) VINTAGE ENGAGEMENT RING WITH 1.5 CT. ROUND CENTER AND 0.08 CT. T.W. DIAMOND ACCENTS, STARTING AT $1,035 (WITHOUT CENTER STONE), SYLVIECOLLECTION.COM; FOREVERMARK ICON SETTING ROUND DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RING IN PLATINUM, STARTING AT $3,195, FOREVERMARK.COM; EMERALD TULIP SOLITAIRE RING WITH 2.52 CT. COLORLESS FOREVER ONE MOISSANITE IN 14K ROSE GOLD, $2,529, CHARLESANDCOLVARD.COM; BEZEL SOLITAIRE RING IN 14K WHITE GOLD WITH 1 CT. LAB-GROWN DIAMOND, $3,532, OVERNIGHTMOUNTINGS.COM; 14K YELLOW AND WHITE GOLD RING WITH REPURPOSED 0.5 CT. T.W. DIAMOND HALO AND 0.7 CT. OLD EUROPEAN CUT–DIAMOND CENTER STONE, PRICE ON REQUEST, LORIMCLEAN.COM

12% report receiving one they want a man-made stone, but only

re oo

15% of brides say c

14% se tting

m diam

e es ar

all ran k at o u pl

PRINCESS-C U T, SQ U AR E, A ND OVA L D IA MO ND S o

7% n d s

66% OF CENTER STONES WEIGH

The Center Stone 95

i e h

Ovals have doubled in popularity since 2017

OF BRIDES SAY T HEY WANT T O BUY CONF LICTF REE DIAMONDS

47% OF CENTER DIAMONDS ARE ROUND

0.5–1.5 CT.

1 IN 10

COUPLES WANTS A NON-DIAMOND CENTER STONE

It’s the most common center stone after diamond (19%), and it has almost doubled in popularity since 2017. Sapphire (18%) and morganite (12%) are also big bridal choices.

MOISSANITE

The Ring 96

THE OVERALL DESIGN OF THE RING IS MORE IMPORTANT TO BRIDES THAN STONE CUT AND SIZE

53%

31% OF COUPLES ARE CUSTOMDESIGNING A RING FROM SCRATCH

78% of proposers say their significant other dropped hints about ring preferences

WH ITE G O LD S ETTING S A R E OV ER WH ELM ING LY TH E M O S T P O P U LA R (54%) B U T L E S S S O TH A N IN 2017 (64%)

more than

of brides relied on Pinterest for ring design research and inspiration

50%

of couples want to personalize their ring design in some way

OVER THE PAST 5 YEARS, THE PREFERENCE FOR YELLOW GOLD HAS MORE THAN DOUBLED

ROSE GOLD SETTINGS ARE THE SECOND MOST POPULAR (14%), SLIGHTLY OUTPACING BOTH PLATINUM (13%) AND YELLOW GOLD (13%)

HALOS ARE DIPPING IN POPULARITY: 24% OF RESPONDENTS REPORTED GETTING A HALO OR A SHARED PRONG SETTING ENGAGEMENT RING, DOWN 2% SINCE 2017

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP L.) ROSE-CUT DIAMOND PAEONIA RING IN 14K GOLD, $2,850, SOFIAZAKIA.COM; 18K WHITE GOLD MICRO-PAVÃ&#x2030; BAND WITH 1.22 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS AND 1.01 CT. ASSCHER-CUT DIAMOND IN DIAMOND PRONGS, PRICE ON REQUEST, MINDIMONDNY.COM; DIAMOND HALO RING IN 18K YELLOW GOLD, $5,775, GRAZIELAGEMS.COM

For style advice, proposers are more likely to rely on friends and family (34%), consult jewelry design websites (32%), or hit up a local brickand-mortar jewelry store for ideas (29%)

Shopping 97

WHERE THEY BUY

90%

OF PROPOSERS PURCHASED THE SETTING AND CENTER STONE AT THE SAME RETAILER

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP R.) VINTAGE 14K WHITE GOLD ROUND HALO RING WITH 0.16 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $1,365 (WITHOUT CENTER STONE), GABRIELNY.COM; ADRIANNA PAPELL 0.875 CT. T.W. WHITE GOLD ENGAGEMENT RING, $2,999.99, KAYJEWELERS.COM; COSTANZA RING WITH DIAMONDS, EMERALDS, SAPPHIRES, AND ONYX, $3,690, BRILLIANTEARTH.COM

Online shoppers were motivated by the promise of better prices or convenience—or just found what they wanted while browsing and went for it

7 in 10

brides say they were somewhat involved in selecting or purchasing their ring

30%

40%

LOCAL/ INDEPENDENT JEWELER AND/OR RETAILER

NATIONAL/ REGIONAL JEWELRY CHAIN

11% ONLINE RETAILER

23%

(nearly a quarter) of that group say they looked at rings with their partner

MORE THAN

HOW QUICKLY CAN YOU AND YOUR VENDORS DELIVER? 39% OF PROPOSERS PURCHASE THE RING 1–2 MONTHS BEFORE PROPOSING

THE TOP 3 ONLINE RETAILERS:

BLUE N IL E , BR ILLIAN T E ART H, JAM ES AL L E N

70% OF THOSE PROPOSING

That’s the average number of retailers proposers visit before purchasing an engagement ring

SAY IT’S IMPORTANT TO SEE THE RING IN PERSON BEFORE PURCHASING AND, ON AVERAGE, LOOK AT 15 RINGS AS PART OF THEIR SEARCH THE TOP 3 NATIONAL CHAINS:

K AY JEWELER S , ZA LES , JA R ED

Spending 98

— 32% —

THE NATIONAL AVERAGE COST OF AN ENGAGEMENT RING IN 2019:

Proposers want a good deal on the engagement ring, or at least a fair deal. Not knowing either way was listed as the top concern.

$5, 9 0 0 ,

DOWN FROM $6,351 I N 2017

— 27% —

(compared with $5,095 in 2011)

Proposers’ second biggest concern? Not understanding enough about diamond terminology.

MID-ATLANTIC

$ 7,500

— 26% —

NEW ENGLAND

72%

Proposers also worry about finding retailers with options they can afford

$ 6,900

SOUTHWEST

$ 5,600

20% of proposers

1 in 3 proposers spends $1,000–$4,000 on the ring

WEST

$ 5,500

OF COUPLES HAVE PURCHASED OR ARE PLANNING TO PURCHASE INSURANCE FOR THEIR ENGAGEMENT RING

discussed the cost of the engagement ring with their partners in advance. and they’re standing firm:

SOUTHEAST

7 in 10 report sticking

$ 5,400

to their budget at purchase time.

MIDWEST

$ 5,300

Wedding Bands

white gold

AVE

$510

PLATINUM HOLDS AT

F A MAN’S W O T ED D OS IN

is the top metal preference among women (52%) down from 61% in 2017

ROSE G O L D

BA C

A WOMAN’S

$1,100

are TR E N D I N G UP

(11%)

AVE

and YELLOW GOLD

(15%)

10%, DOWN FROM 12%

IN 2017

tungsten

is still the most popular metal among men (23%)

white gold is a close second (21%)

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP L.) STARDUST BEA RING WITH 1 CT. OVAL-CUT BRILLIANT GALAXY GRAY DIAMOND CENTER, GRAY DIAMOND PAVÉ, AND WHITE DIAMOND TRILLION SIDE STONES IN 14K YELLOW GOLD, $7,355, ANNASHEFFIELD.COM; DIAMOND HOPE RING WITH 5 MM BEZEL-SET WHITE DIAMOND, SIX 1 MM WHITE DIAMONDS, AND MILGRAIN DETAIL IN 14K GOLD, $3,450, JENNIEKWONDESIGNS.COM; KATIE RING WITH 0.89 CT. OLD EUROPEAN–CUT DIAMOND AND 0.4 CT. T.W. DIAMOND ACCENTS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD, $5,900, SINGLESTONE.COM; MEN’S ARMORY BAND IN STERLING SILVER, $450, DAVIDYURMAN.COM; PAVÉ CLASSICA STACKING RING IN 14K WHITE GOLD WITH 0.65 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $1,295, EFFYJEWELRY.COM

Average engagement ring cost by region:

Cultivate Generations of Loyal Customers!

Digital and Print Marketing Support!

Business Building Charm Program Beneﬁts: • Rembrandt’s charm displays generate $4,500 - $7,500 in sales per sq ft! • Displays contain the best-selling charms by region, leading to impulse Sterling Silver sales and Karat Gold special orders. • Complete selection of inventory-controlled displays available. Re-order only what you sell! • Charm collectors are loyal, repeat customers! • Store Listing on our Website’s Retail Locator. Are you listed?

Contact us today! Mention this ad to receive special pricing on select ﬂoor, counter and wall displays. What Retailers Are Saying “Being a Rembrandt retailer was a no brainer for me! We carried the charms at my former employer and this was one of the ﬁrst accounts I set up when I opened my own store in 2017. The Charm Program is a great way to attract customers and the charms are a gateway for larger sales!” - Jamie Parkerson, J. Parkerson Jewelers All charm designs are created with exquisite detail. A single charm is handled more than forty times before it’s completed.

Orders@RembrandtCharms.com • p.800-828-7840 • f.800-828-7811 Loyal to Retail Jewelers for Over 50 Years

Handcrafted in USA & Canada

Lifetime Warranty

Thousands of Charms in Silver & Gold

Gemstone Offerings at JCK Las Vegas T W O D I S T I N C T D E S T I N AT I O N S TO M E E T A L L YO U R LO O S E G E M S TO N E N E E D S .

RMC GEMS INC

Including Fine Gems and ICA

GEM PAVILION

Monday, June 1 – Friday, June 5, 2020

Tuesday, June 2 – Friday, June 5, 2020

A N E X T R AO R D I N A R Y A S S O R T M E N T O F C O LO R E D G E M S F R O M

I N T R O D U C I N G A N A D D I T I O N A L D E S T I N AT I O N F O R G E M S TO N E

O P E N O N E DAY E A R L I E R T H A N J C K

A R O U N D T H E W O R L D ! O P E N I N G O N E DAY E A R L I E R T H A N T H E J C K

S O U R C I N G — D I R E C T LY O N T H E J C K L A S V E G A S S H O W F LO O R .

L A S V E G A S S H O W F LO O R , G E T A J U M P S TA R T O N YO U R S O U R C I N G

A D D I N G TO J C K ’ S C O M P R E H E N S I V E P R O D U C T O F F E R I N G , S H O P

N E E D S W I T H 2 0 0 + D O M E S T I C A N D I N T E R N AT I O N A L G E M S TO N E

T H E G E M PAV I L I O N TO D I S C OV E R A VA R I E T Y O F G LO B A L C O LO R E D

V E N D O R S F E AT U R I N G F I N E G E M S A N D I C A ( I N T E R N AT I O N A L

G E M S TO N E S U P P L I E R S — A D D I T I O N A L TO T H O S E LO C AT E D W I T H I N

C O LO R E D G E M S TO N E A S S O C I AT I O N ) M E M B E R S .

G LO B A L G E M S TO N E .

LEVEL 1 BALLROOMS, SANDS EXPO

LEVEL 1 SHOW FLOOR, SANDS EXPO

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101

MARCH 2020

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault MUNICH MADE As with all of Hemmerle’s one-of-a-kind creations, these earrings—made from silver, 18k white gold, and 22.45 cts. t.w. tsavorite—were crafted in the jewelers’ atelier, located in a converted townhouse in Munich, just around the corner from the maison’s lovely Maximilianstrasse boutique.

GREEN ROOM Color-matching the stones was a challenge, Christian Hemmerle says. “We pay very close attention to detail with the hues of our gemstones in order to capture their full potential and to give them the best home, and will sometimes wait years to make sure we have the correct match.”

GARDEN PARTY

SLOW HANDS

R ARE TROPICAL PLANTS growing inside the 161-yearold Singapore Botanic Gardens inspired these elegant tsavorite earrings from Munich-based jeweler Hemmerle. “Nature and its organic sculptural forms are an endless source of inspiration for Hemmerle,” says company director Christian Hemmerle, who recently visited the world-famous garden with his father, Stefan. “We find that inspiration can come at unexpected and often mundane moments, when we are struck by the beauty of the everyday.” Once ideas take root at the brand, they pass into the capable hands of 20 in-house master craftsmen who, Hemmerle says, “share our distinct visual language.” —EMILI VESILIND

The house’s signature style is on display in the earrings, in the source of inspiration as well as the techniques used, such as the reverseset pavé on the post covers. “We believe we have a strong and recognizable aesthetic, preserved through our deliberately slow design process,” Hemmerle says. JCKONLINE.COM

the vault

102

COLORED STONES 18k yellow gold hoop earrings with Brazilian milky aquamarines; $1,600

18k yellow gold earrings with 19.11 cts. t.w. Ethiopian opal beads and gold accents; $13,600; fosterjewelry.com 18k yellow gold ring with a milky aquamarine center; $4,000

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

THE PAINTED DESERT

Fine jewelry brand Millapani is based in New York City, but its designs are deeply inspired by the Chilean roots of its founders, Karen Thiele and her daughters, Alexis and Tathienne Thiele. The atelier’s new Constellation collection is composed of 18k yellow gold pieces set with a multitude of quietly colorful gems, including r utilated quartz and milky a quamarine. Collectively, it’s an a rtistic response to a natural phenomenon, says Karen, explaining that the designs “were inspired by the starry Atacama Desert sky, when the glow of the rising sun shines over the eastern horizon.” —EMILI VESILIND

HOT STOCK TIP

Ring with 60 ct. imperial topaz in 18k yellow gold, $2,600; ring with diamonds, tourmaline, garnets, and amethyst in 18k yellow gold, $2,550

18k yellow gold earrings with rutilated quartz slices; $2,800; Millapani; tania@ millapani.com; millapani.com

MARCH 2020

GALAXY QUEST Opals have been ubiquitous in fine jewelry for years now, but St. Louis–based designer Adam Foster uses the iridescent gem in thrillingly original ways at Adam Foster Fine Jewelry. Take these orb-tastic 18k yellow gold and opal drop earrings that evoke gleaming little galaxies. Foster personally sourced the opal beads on a recent trip to India and says the hand-engraved line pattern on the gold “references the connection lines on old star maps.” —EV

CRUSHING ON CABOCHONS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/coloredstones FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

the vault

GOLD

103 Demi Globe Plus Pear ring in 14k yellow gold with pear-shape diamond; $3,380; Grace Lee; contact@gracelee. com; gracelee.com

TREND GAME

BOMBES AWAY DOME-SHAPED BOMBE rings and earrings hit their peak popularity in the 1940s and 1950s, and have cycled in and out of fashion since. The rounded style, which packs the attention-getting panache of an oversize cocktail ring but also the sculptural sleekness of traditional Nordic silver design, is enjoying a resurgence that we expect to intensify in 2020. David Webb, Pomellato, and other haute jewelers keep bombes in their permanent assortments. But now upstart brands—such as Established Jewelry and Grace Lee—are experimenting with the sloped style too. —EMILI VESILIND

Asscher-cut diamond dome ring in 14k gold; $1,650; Jacquie Aiche; info@ jacquieaiche.com; jacquieaiche.com

Bauble ring in 14k yellow gold; $4,235; Established Jewelry; 646-745-6831; establishedjewelry.com

HOT STOCK TIP

THE PERFECT DATE Birthstones and nameplate necklaces are sweet, but a less clichéd way to celebrate a loved one (a child, a partner, etc.) is with a jewel that marks a special date. Brooklyn, N.Y.–based designer Page Sargisson has expanded her collection of 10k gold calendar pendants with the new Chakra Calendar charm, a coin surrounded by multicolored sapphires and engraved with a calendar month featuring a white sapphire to mark a particular day. We love the way it essentially stops time in its tracks. —EV 10k yellow gold Chakra Calendar charm with multicolored sapphires; $1,950; pagesargisson.com

JCKONLINE.COM

Turquoise Polka bombe ring in 14k yellow gold with green turquoise and 0.5 ct. t.w. Asscher-cut diamonds; $5,795; Retrouvaí; 646-7456831; retrouvai.com;

THE SCOOP ON VICENZAORO JANUARY! SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE.

MARCH 2020

new date pattern for Tuesday, June 2 – Friday, June 5, 2020

SOFRAGEM

RMC GEMS INC

D I S C O V E R W H AT ’ S N E W & N E X T I N T H E F I N E JEWELRY MARKET — ALL UNDER ONE ROOF

SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS R E G I S T E R TO DAY AT J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 2 0. C O M

LAS VEGAS TUESDAY, JUNE 2 – FRIDAY, JUNE 5, 2020 LEVELS 1 & 2

TUESDAY, JUNE 2 – FRIDAY, JUNE 5, 2020

MONDAY, JUNE 1 – FRIDAY, JUNE 5, 2020

LEVEL 2

LEVEL 1

BY INVITATION ONLY MAY 31 – JUNE 1

@JCKEVENTS

INCLUDING FINE GEMS AND ICA

#JCKLASVEGAS

MONDAY, JUNE 1 – FRIDAY, JUNE 5, 2020 LEVEL 3

105

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THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

Show biz SHAPE SHIFTERS Watches & Wonders Geneva (the fair formerly known as SIHH) and Baselworld are changing things up in 2020

B BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

IG CHANGES ARE afoot at the jewelry and watch industry’s two most important Swiss fairs. The luxury watch extravaganza formerly known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (or simply SIHH) has been renamed Watches & Wonders Geneva and has a new set of dates. Instead of its traditional mid-January timing, the show will now celebrate its 30th edition at Palexpo as well as at other locations throughout the city from April 25 to 29. The Baselworld fair, meanwhile, will pick up where Watches & Wonders leaves off, with a six-day show that opens April 30. Both events are in a state of flux, as organizers grapple with defecting exhibitors and growing pressure to tailor their events to consumers. The ambitious program of consumer-facing events at Watches & Wonders Geneva includes exhibitions, walking tours, hands-on workshops, guided visits of manufacturers, in-store activations, museum tours, expert talks, and opportunities to meet the people who work behind the scenes. The organizers of Baselworld, reeling from an exodus that has slashed the exhibitor count by half in recent years,

have been forced to be equally inventive. The management team recently announced a new concept for the 2020 edition called “Community District,” which reimagines Hall 1.0 as a space that combines prestige-brand booths, private business zones designed to accommodate large numbers of people, and “important new experience areas for the general public,” according to the press release. The concept was enough to lure back watch exhibitor Maurice Lacroix. The Swiss brand sat out the 2019 show but announced in October that it would return to Baselworld in 2020. “The new team has listened to our needs by proposing a concept which respects our marketing and distribution strategy,” says managing director Stéphane Waser. “This international event will be a key milestone in our world roadshow.” The fair’s embattled management team issued a press release last fall that heralded the news of Maurice Lacroix’s return, savoring a victory in what many see as a protracted war for the future of trade fairs. For now, all that’s clear is that in both Basel and Geneva, retailers and consumers will be in the trenches together.

JCKONLINE.COM

Masterpiece Moonphase Retrograde in 43 mm steel case; $5,000; Maurice Lacroix; 800-799-1616; mauricelacroix.com

2020 Save the Dates Make JIS Events a part of your 2020 schedule. With four shows a year to restock your inventory and connect with suppliers across every product category—there’s something for everyone.

The Niche

JIS APRIL April 28 - 30, 2020 Miami Beach Convention Center

The Largest

JIS OCTOBER October 13 - 16, 2020 Miami Beach Convention Center

The Newest

JIS DELIVERY - SAN DIEGO November 13 - 15, 2020 San Diego Convention Center

Learn more about this year’s JIS Shows! JISSHOW.COM # J I S S HOW

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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME FREE BIT OF ADVICE

WILSON’S ESTATE JEWELRY

Wilson’s Estate Jewelry gave this Victorian opal and diamond ring to a lucky Instagram follower.

The secret to gaining followers on Instagram? Giveaways!

Another Wilson’s Insta-contest: an Edwardian ring

BY EMILI VESILIND 70 times faster than those that don’t. Contests and giveaways on Instagram receive 3.5 times as many likes as and 64 times more comments than an average post. And 91% of posts with more than 1,000 comments “are related to a giveaway or contest,” said the study. “Giveaways are a great way to start online conversations about your brand without being overly promotional,” says Shane Barker, an independent social media consultant. Execute a great giveaway, and watch your Instagram following swell. Here’s a basic guide to hosting a giveaway on the ’Gram.

PICK A GREAT PIECE

ET’S BE BLUNT: The days of relying solely on content to significantly increase your Instagram following are over. High-quality content, posted consistently, is as important as ever; without it, your following will dwindle. But Instagram is used by 1 billion people globally—basically, it’s crowded. Which means even the most mind-blowing content can wallow in obscurity without an additional driver—an influencer partnership, a photo contest, or the king of follower boosters: the giveaway. According to a recent study by social media marketing firm Tailwind, Instagram accounts that run regular contests (including giveaways) grow

Jewelry retailers have the advantage of selling products whose value practically everyone recognizes—even a simple 14k gold pendant priced at $150 can whip an audience into a frenzy on Instagram. Just make sure the item you choose to give away appeals to a wide cross-section of your followers to maximize participation. And ensure you have a sharp, high-quality image of the piece to post to your feed.

SET THE TIMELINE AND FIND YOUR WHY Figure out when to post your giveaway and—more important—why. Is there a trunk show or event you want to promote? Is your store debuting a brand or collection? Any social contest should tie in to your overall marketing strategy.

JCKONLINE.COM

When it does, you’re bringing the excitement you’ve built on Instagram into your store. Remember to include the dates the campaign will run in the post, along with any participation restrictions (i.e., age to enter, location parameters).

USE A RECIPE To see a sharp follower spike, use a giveaway recipe the big consumer brands have perfected—known as like/tag/follow: To enter the giveaway, your audience will be required to like the giveaway post, tag a friend in the post’s comments, and follow your feed if they don’t already. The idea is to use the product to entice your current followers to enter, then let them do the work of bringing others into the contest (via tagging).

CHOOSE A WINNER THE RIGHT WAY Legally, giveaway winners on Instagram (or any social media platform) must be chosen at random, and your business has to be able to cite how you achieved this if asked. Fortunately, there are easy online tools that help you do this, including Arbitery.com—which generates a certificate indicating the names of the winners and alternates. Once the winner’s been chosen, ask if you can take photos of him or her picking up and trying on the prize. Because snapshots of thrilled winners make for seriously charming social content!

Tool Time

108

‌THE GOODS

When you receive a message sent using the Talsam mobile app, the crystals on the charm light up progressively, mimicking a shooting star.

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

TALSAM PENDANT There are wearable devices designed to track your fitness goals and ones that alert you to texts and phone calls. Talsam—a new wearable that can be worn as a necklace or bracelet—was designed to make you feel loved. Yes, really. The pretty pendant, which comes in a variety of trendy semi precious stone casings (pictured: black sardonyx and amazonite), functions as an intimate communication channel between two people—to transmit affectionate messages and, in the event of an emergency, alert the wearer’s loved one to his or her exact location. It may not be the most pragmatic wearable we’ve seen, but its heart is in the right place. And we love warmand-fuzzy technology. —EMILI VESILIND

What it does: Through Talsam’s mobile phone app, wearers receive personal messages from their special person—even “secret” notes that can only be unlocked using two-factor authentication. When contacted, the charm emits a subtle light and gently vibrates. The device also acts as a GPS locator; pushing a small button sends a text with your coordinates.

What we liked: Talsam is lightweight and well-built, and features a choice of chic semiprecious stone cases, including green amazonite, white howlite, gray agate, blue goldstone, and black sardonyx. It doesn’t easily wear as a bracelet (its weight makes it slide around too much) but works perfectly as a pendant.

Best feature: The unique wearable feels like a real piece of jewelry—the base metal is plated in 18k yellow gold, and the device is even covered in Swarovski crystals arranged in the pattern of the Lyra constellation, a group of stars that’s been associated with love for millennia. ($279.99; talsam.com)

BE NICE OR LEAVE: INSTAGRAM ETIQUETTE TO LIVE BY! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

BEST BUILT RING ENGRAVER BB5S

The new engraver from Best Built allows you to download and utilize your own fonts.

MARCH 2020

JCK030120_108_TOOLTIME_TheGoods.indd 108

Is it time to upgrade your engraver? The Best Built BB5S engraver from Stuller is a quality option. The desktop tool engraves both the inside and outside of rings, and boasts single line, double line, and hatching design options. The engraver—which handles light- and medium-duty engraving—comes standard with MagicArt5 software, wireless Bluetooth capabilities (you’d use with your own tablet), laser centering, a tool tray, multipurpose utilization with various jig types, and an internal electric switch. And it works for more than rings—you can do custom engravings to pendants, necklaces, ID tags, bracelets, lighters, and key chains with it, too. ($5,695; stuller.com) —EV

JCKONLINE.COM

2/14/20 4:13 PM

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Sunday, May 31 – Friday, June 5, 2020 Part of the Luxury show by invitation only Sunday May 31 & Monday, June 1 SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS

SEE WHAT’S DEBUTING AT PRESTIGE AT LUXURY20.COM/PRESTIGE

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

110

Gabriel & Co 545 W. 45th St., Third Floor New York, NY 10036 Phone: 212-519-1400 Email: lverona@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Discover the iconic Bujukan collection inspired by the Balinese art of persuasion. Delicate, yet fresh and fun, it’s the perfect gift or self-purchase and might just be the start of a new love affair! Shop online or find a retail store near you at gabrielny.com.

Le Vian® Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Le Vian® spring style shimmers with gorgeous Le Vian® cut Sky Blue Topaz and Deep Sea Abalone Shell Doublet center among Nude Diamonds™ in this darling duet.

Lika Behar Collection

Stuller Inc.

80 Triangle Blvd. Carlstadt, NJ 07072 Tel: 201-933-7200, ext. 1 Fax: 201-933-2700 Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Website: likabehar.com

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

Lika Behar creates unique and intimate works of wearable art inspired by ancient civilizations and the Mediterranean. Lika works with 24k and 22k gold, oxidized sterling silver, diamonds, and beautiful gemstones.

Modern Brilliance™ is our new lab-grown diamond jewelry jewe y collection. This collection features an array of chic and classic styles—available style —available in 14k white, yellow, and rose gold. To seek big looks for bbetter ter value visit stuller.com/modernbrilliance.

Midas Chain

Berkley Asset Protection

151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com A bold feather pendant sits juxtaposed to a delicate bead chain on this new Midas Chain necklace. The chain features exceptional diamond-cutting that reflects light with every movement. MSRP: $495

MARCH 2020

757 Third Ave., 10th Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 440-630-9378 Email: mbecker@berkleyassetpro.co mbecker@berkleyassetpro.com Website: berkleyassetpro.com Since 2008, Berkley Asset Protection has delivered the industry’s most complete and high quality portfolio of specialized insurance products and services designed to protect fine art, jewelry, and other high-value personal and commercial assets.

JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

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111

Arch Crown Inc. Sylvie Collection 5200 McDermott Road, Suite 200 Plano, TX 75024 Tel: 800-992-3426 Email: info@sylviecollection.com Website: sylviecollection.com The Sylvie Collection is designed by a woman, for a woman by threetime national award winner Sylvie Levine. With 30 years of quality craftsmanship and manufacturing set by its founding company, Sylvie offers over 2,000 customizable options.

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Custom Printed Thermal Transfer Computer Tags! Crisp reproduction of your logo, pricing, and description with or without bar codes on custom thermal transfer tags. Thermal transfer tags are available in eight colors. JCK Las Vegas Booth 52033

Royal Chain Group 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com Royal Chain is the industry’s premier source for gold chains and turnkey fashion finds. With inventory on over 10,000 SKUs, you’ll find what you need at competitive prices. Discover our Spring 2020 collection, featuring paperclip chains and vintage-inspired looks.

RDI Diamonds 2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 844-742-6591 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Rare and Forever Diamonds set the standard for diamonds of the highest quality and consistency. Each diamond is graded by De Beers Group Industry Services and benefits from De Beers’ unrivaled knowledge and advanced grading technology. Text JCK3 to 877-620-1333 to learn more.

JCKONLINE.COM

Effy Jewelry Website: effyjewelry.com Make a glowing statement in Effy’s dramatic, yet refined, natural emerald earrings. Accented by white diamonds set in 14k white gold, these drops are an Art Deco–inspired dream! MSRP: $3,496.50

Artistry Ltd. 8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: orders@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com A kaleidoscope of color! 14k white gold rainbow circle pendant with 1.05 cts. t.w. multicolored sapphires and 0.05 ct. diamond bail on a 16–18-inch chain. MSRP: $1,310. Call today for current pricing. Matching rings available.

MARCH 2020

PRODUCT

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Hoover & Strong 10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 m Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com Hoover & Strong has over 650 die-struck bands including hundreds of new classic, fancy, multi-tone, and diamond styles! All bands are Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our products.

Effy Jewelry Website: effyjewelry.com The stars align brilliantly in Effy’s celestially inspired 14k white gold necklace. Classic pavé-set diamonds double as convenient conversation starters in a piece that dazzles in any environment.

Jye’s International Inc. Alex Velvet Inc. 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90065 Tel: 323-255-6900 Fax: 323-255-6934 Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Website: alexvelvetusa.com Alex Velvet presents the new Floral collection. You can highlight your windows with seasonal colors.

1633 Bayshore Highway, Suite 136 Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com Every piece in the Jye Luxury Collection reflects the brand’s commitment to excellence by combining unique classic and contemporary designs and impeccable workmanship in 18k gold/ platinum along with G/VS+ premium-cut diamonds and fine gems.

RDI Diamonds Gabriel & Co 545 W. 45th St., Third Flo Floor New York, NY 10036 Phone: 212-519-1400 Email: lverona@gabrielny.c lverona@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Take a look at our men’s wedding bands—The Perfect Match® to our engagement rings and anniversary rings. (Styles ER14460R4T44JJ, WB14460R4T44JJ, MBM0132-60T4JJJ)

MARCH 2020

2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 844-742-6591 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again. You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100% Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.

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Cirari by Color Jewels 36 W. 44th St., Suite 900 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488 Email: info@cirari.com Website: cirari.com Cirari is a leading designer and manufacturer of gemstone and diamond jewelry. Our collection is finely crafted with exquisite style and competitive prices to meet every woman’s demand at every stage of her life. We are committed to providing superior quality and craftsmanship in each item.

Shy Creation 631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Fax: 213-623-0860 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Meet Shy Creation’s JCK Jewelry Award winners, including our classic diamond pavé Cuban link bracelet, at the 2020 JA NY Spring show.

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com R & P has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.

Rahaminov Diamonds 606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com Rahaminov Diamonds Branch bypass earrings feature 7.32 cts. t.w. marquise-cut D-G VS1-SI1 GIA diamonds set in 18k white gold. MSRP: $44,000

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. Thorsten 404 E. First St., Suite 1204 Long Beach, CA 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings.com support@thorstenrings.c Website: thorstenrings.com 600 Styles. Lifetime warranty. Bold • Unique • Modern

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631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

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SCHOOLS & EDUCATION JEWELRY CLASSES

• Wax Modeling • Casting Mold Making • Bead Pearl Stringing • Diamond Setting • Rendering/Design • Jewelry Repair Long and Short Term Courses EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. 32 East 31 Street (Park & Madison) New York, NY 10016 Call (212) 686-1944 www.studiojewelersltd.com

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WATCHES & WATCH WORK ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices. Star Findings PO Box 6167, West Orange, NJ 07052 212-941-7655 ernie@starfindings.com www.starfindings.com

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JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

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Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com

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RUN A CLASSIFIED AD STARTING AT $220 Call your JCK Sales Representative or email JCKClassifieds@advance.net.

CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING 3D computer design 3D wax printing ● Precious metal casting ●

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Stone setting and ﬁnishing Diamond supply ● Laser engraving & repair ●

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Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com

MARCH 2020

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ADVERTISING

INDEX AGTA pg. 8-9 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alex Velvet pg. 41 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Alrosa USA pg. 43 Website: alrosa.ru Email: FoersterR@usa.alrosa.ru Phone: 212-921-4300 Artistry Ltd. pg. 28 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Berkley Asset Protection pg. 31 Website: berkleyassetpro.com Email: mbecker@berkleyassetpro.com Phone: 212-922-0659 Fax: 212-922-0659 Color Jewels / Cirari pg.29 Website: cirari.com Email: info@cirari.com Phone: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488 Effy pg. Gatefold Cover Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Gabriel & Co. pg. 23, 45 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 Hoover & Strong pg. 36 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

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Hugo Kohl Jewelry pg. 38 Website: hugokohl.com Email: contact@hugokohl.com Phone: 540-574-4306

Midas pg. 6-7 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765

International Colored Gemstone Association pg. 40 Website: gemstone.org Email: ica@gemstone.org Phone: 212-620-0900 Fax: 212-352-9054

Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 62 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327

JCK Events pg. 10-11, 12-13, 100, 104, 109 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers’ Mutual Insurance pg. 35 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 10-11, 12-13, 56, 106 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 JTR Jewellery Exporters’ Association pg. 59, 61 Website: jtr.org.tr Email: info@jtr.org.tr Jye’s International pg. 19 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880 Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Lika Behar Collection pg. 46 Website: likabehar.com Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Phone: 201-933-7200 Metro Mall pg. 53 Website: metromallmiami.com Email: leasing@metromallmiami.com Phone: 786-534-8550

Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 17 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Rand & Paseka pg. 50 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 49, Back Cover Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rembrandt Charms pg. 99 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811 Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3, 39 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960

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Stuller Inc. pg. 25 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Sylvie Collection pg. 27 Website: sylviecollection.com Email: cassie@spectrumdiamonds.com Phone: 800-992-3426 Fax: 214-472-9990 Thorsten Jewelry pg. 33 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com Tim Roark Inc. pg. 30 Website: timroarkinc.com Email: info@trimportsatl.com Phone: 404-872-8937 Toll-free: 800-568-2011 Fax: 404-872-9346 Trueview AR pg. 44 Website: trueviewar.com Email: hello@trueviewar.com Toll-Free: 888-910-8783 Umicore pg. 32 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060

Shy Creation Inc. pg. 4-5 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749

Copyright ©2020 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 151 No. 1 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 4 times a year in March, May, June, and September for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

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THE WAY WE WORE

WHEN MEMBERS OF Bulgari’s Heritage Department acquired this sautoir at a 2018 Sotheby’s auction, they learned that the previous owner was a Geneva resident named Patricia Bemberg. To find out more about its provenance, the brand’s historians contacted Bemberg, then 93 years old. She told them she’d received the jewel as a gift from her husband around 1973, during a trip to Rome for their 23rd wedding anniversary. Now permanently housed in Bulgari’s archives, the iconic piece is an exemplar of the Italian jeweler’s 1970s-era inspirations: Pop Art, the Far East, and the print-splashed fashions of the day. The chain—set with cabochon rubies, amethysts, citrine, topaz, turquoise, emeralds, and diamonds—can also convert to form two bracelets. The design reveals several enduring Bulgari signatures: pairings of precious and semiprecious gems, geometric chain links, and the sautoir silhouette itself, a staple of the house’s high jewelry collections to this day. —AMY ELLIOTT

SAUTOIR, SO GOOD

Photographed by Franco Rubartelli in 1970 for Vogue, legendary model Veruschka wears a Bulgari necklace starring a 127.35 ct. heart-shape emerald

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Changing lives. One scholarship at a time. The Gemological Institute of America® has awarded over $10 million in scholarships to deserving and passionate students globally since 2010. It’s one of the many reasons why GIA® is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls.

The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology

Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu/scholarships

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