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SPRING 2018
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LUXURY W H AT D O E S L U X U RY M E A N T O YO U ?
J C K E X H I B I T O R S G I V E T H E I R U N F I LT E R E D TA K E S .
COVER LOOK
LUXURY 4
Marilyn 14k yellow gold 36-inch necklace with 7.5 cts. t.w. diamonds; $17,599; Facet Barcelona; 212-302-8200; facetbarcelona.com
18k rose gold ring with 3.1 cts. t.w. opaque diamonds; $5,940; Jennifer Dawes Design; 888-802-0880; dawes-design.com
Luna 14k yellow gold earrings with 59.8 cts. t.w. moonstone and 1.1 cts. t.w. diamonds; $7,750; The Mazza Co.; 800-654-3400; mazzajewelry.com
18k yellow gold bracelet with 7.96 cts. t.w. fancy vivid yellow diamonds; $70,000; Rahaminov Diamonds; 213-622-9866; rahaminov.com
LUXURY What does luxury mean to you? JCK exhibitors give their unfiltered takes (page 7). Plus: a visit to designer Jennifer Dawes’ Santa Rosa, Calif., studio (page 18). COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKAEL SCHULZ Hair: Jerome Cultrera using Oribe for L’Atelier NYC Makeup: Kajsa Svanberg using Chanel for Art Department Stylist: Jessica Willis Manicurist: Roseann Singleton using Chanel for Art Department Model: Cai Lee at Wilhelmina
SPRING 2018
14k yellow gold 18-inch necklace with 0.55 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,499; Facet Barcelona
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BOUTON rings · SIGNATURE & LOOPY bracelet · SNOWFL AKES LEAF pendant · 18K · finejewelr y @ tamaracomolli.com
COUTURE SHOW Wynn Las Vegas · May 31 - June 4, 2018 Salon 317
SOUTHAMPTON · LAKE TEGERNSEE · SYLT · PALM BEACH · MUNICH · MARBELLA · FORTE DEI MARMI Neiman Marcus and selected retailers www.tamaracomolli.com
LUXURY 7
“ W H AT D O E S LU X U RY M E A N TO YO U?”
W E A S K E D LU X U RY E X H I B I TO R S T H AT V E RY QU E S T I O N. T H E I R H E A RT F E LT A N S W E R S M I G H T S U R P R I S E YO U. BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
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SPRING 2018
LUXURY 8
A
S CONCEPTS GO, luxury is more nuanced than most. To some, it’s a breezy day on a pristine beach with nowhere to go and all day to get there. To others, it’s the tangible product of years of expertise and unparalleled craftsmanship—whether it’s a one-of-a-kind jewel, a hand-embroidered couture gown, or a bespoke pair of shoes. To distill the essence of a word many of us use on a daily basis, we asked 15 exhibitors at the 2018 LUXURY show in Las Vegas to reveal what luxury means to them. What they told us had nothing to do with opulence and everything to do with their own personal worldviews. Frank La Roux, senior vice president of sales and merchandising at New York City–based Color Jewels, summed it up thusly: “Jewelry is luxurious because it is handcrafted from precious metals and rare gemstones, but the biggest luxury jewelry brings is happiness to the person receiving or purchasing it.” We couldn’t have said it better ourselves!
JOHN ATENCIO FOUNDER, JOHN ATENCIO
Polar diamond earrings in 14k white gold with 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,185; John Atencio; 720-445-5292; johnatencio.com
“Luxury is that perfect blend of quality, uniqueness, and comfort. It tends to be understated and, for me, it is most often experiential. It is usually associated with a new place or new experience. It may be as simple as luxurious towels, an exotic bath oil, or an unexpectedly fragrant candle. Or, perhaps, a warm personal greeting and fine service in an elegant setting. It is that unique and unexpected attention to quality and comfort. Each creates a lasting feeling and each adds to the luxury experience.”
SPRING 2018
Amelia ring in 14k rose gold with diamonds and multicolored baguette gems; $1,675; My Story Fine Jewelry; concierge@my storyfinejewelry. com; mystory finejewelry.com
JACKIE COHEN FOUNDER, MY STORY FINE JEWELRY “Luxury, to me, is a state of being. It’s what feels indulgent. Something I wouldn’t do, eat, or buy for myself every day. As a full-time working single mom, free time is a luxury. And time alone (even if it’s only business travel) certainly feels extravagant to me. A warm bath and a glass of wine after a day at the beach, with sun-kissed skin, is a dreamy feeling to me. Maybe luxury is anything that makes you feel special. At the place I am in in my life, extra time feels special and makes me feel like when I get it, I truly deserve it.”
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THE GOLD OF THE NEW GENERATION
Visit us at LUXURY JCK Las Vegas STAND LUX 1201 www.facetbarcelona.com | www.1ktgold.com | www.vivalagioia.us
LUXURY 10
EFFY HEMATIAN FOUNDER, EFFY
ERICA COURTNEY FOUNDER, ERICA COURTNEY “Luxury is waking up on soft, delicious sheets in the morning. It’s a perfect start to your busy day. Luxury, to me, is about a feeling, sometimes as simple as an outdoor dinner, with a perfect breeze and a nice bottle of wine. (Thinking of Pemba beach in Africa right now.)”
18k gold Etoile ring with 7.71 ct. paraiba tourmaline, 1.81 cts. t.w. paraiba tourmalines, and diamonds; $103,400; Erica Courtney; 323-938-2373; ericacourtney.com
“Most people think of expensive things, like Champagne and fancy cars, when they hear the word luxury. But to me, luxury is when you can take simple pleasures in the quality of something you own or an experience you enjoy. For nearly 40 years, I’ve designed handcrafted fine jewelry for everyone—no matter the budget or style. My customers wear my designs on the red carpet and also to the grocery store. That is luxury. It’s a state of mind.”
Sunset Opal collection pendant in 18k white gold with Ethiopian opal and diamonds; price on request; Effy; 212-944-0020; effyjewelry.com
LAUREN KESSLER FOUNDER, LAUREN K “Luxury is more discreet than it used to be. It could be a wonderful, candlelit bath with soft music after a long day, a great book, a dream car, a nap on a beach, some jewelry to make you feel pretty, a beautiful drive, an amazing trip, or an indulgent day of shopping, theater, and fine dining in the city. All of these things are unique; some have hefty price tags associated with them, while others cost nothing. That’s the point. It’s all about the connection one has to their own idea of luxury.” Joyce earrings in 18k yellow gold with 14.07 cts. t.w. pink and green tourmalines and 0.07 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,650; Lauren K; info@laurenk.com; laurenk.com
SPRING 2018
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2008 • 2009 • 2010 • 2011 • 2012 2013 • 2014 • 2015 • 2016 • 2017 • 2018
Australian Opal
Lotus Garnet
LU X U RY • LU X 1 7 0 4
1-800-635-9800 • w w w.parlegems.com
LUXURY 12
FRANK LA ROUX SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES AND MERCHANDISING, COLOR JEWELS “I grew up working on a farm in southern Illinois and luxury back then meant being able to afford a good pair of work boots and warm clothes. It’s funny how that perspective changes as we get older. To me luxury never really revolved around material possessions but was more about being able to afford a certain lifestyle for your family. Having a nice home, driving a nice car, wearing quality clothes, providing a great education for your children, and the ultimate luxury of good health are things I am grateful for every day.”
SYLVIE LEVINE PRINCIPAL DESIGNER AND OWNER, SYLVIE COLLECTION “My lifestyle is so fast-paced that a feeling of total disconnect in time and space is what luxury means to me. My most memorable experience of true luxury was when my husband took me to a small island off the coast of Thailand. The fact that I didn’t have to plan or think about anything was luxury for me. I was surrounded by beauty and extreme tranquility for a few days. To be able to step back and breathe in my surroundings is to experience true luxury.” SPRING 2018
18k white gold ring with 13.59 ct. tanzanite, 0.29 ct. t.w. baguette diamonds, and 1.18 cts. t.w. round diamonds; $18,500; Cirari; 212-7642823; cirari.com
Engagement ring in 14k white gold with 0.82 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,895 (without center stone); Sylvie Collection; 800-992-3426, sylviecollection.com
EDDIE LEVIAN DESIGNER AND CEO, LE VIAN CORP. “Luxury is the experience that says, ‘I’m worth it.’ Once a guest walks through our magical doors, we must flawlessly and passionately deliver a five-star experience of the finest quality, inspired originality, great value, and superb service. We are trusted to symbolize our guests’ most important milestones in life. Luxury is making it memorable.”
STEVE MAZZA DESIGNER AND VICE PRESIDENT, THE MAZZA CO. “What an easy question, I thought, sitting at my desk full of some of our finest work. Then, I really started to think about the definition of luxury. After discarding the clichéd, I came to the conclusion that for me, time disconnected from the responsibilities of work and life— phones, email, etc.—is the greatest luxury. Whether it is a long weekend with my wife on our boat, a hike with the whole family, or even a quiet cup of coffee with no time limit, all represent what I truly yearn for every day.”
Couture ring in 18k Vanilla Gold and 18k Honey Gold with 4.25 ct. Chocolate Diamond and 1.125 cts. t.w. Vanilla Diamonds; $94,297; Le Vian; 877-2538426; levian.com
Aquamarine cabochon earrings in 14k yellow gold with sapphires, diamonds, and removable tassels; $4,750; The Mazza Co.; 800-654-3400; mazzajewelry.com
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LUXURY | JCK 502 Toll-free: 877-77-MAKUR
|
makurdesigns.com
Designs © MAKUR DESIGNS ®. All rights reserved. Made in the USA.
LUXURY 14
YEHOUDA SAKETKHOU FOUNDER, YAEL DESIGNS
NIVEET NAGPAL HEAD DESIGNER AND PRESIDENT, OMI PRIVÉ “Luxury is an emotion. It’s the opportunity to enjoy something you wouldn’t normally have access to, and it makes you feel exclusive. It’s not just something that’s expensive or out of reach; it’s something you don’t have the opportunity to do often. Luxury is family. I’ve worked very hard to build Omi Privé and outside of business, a huge luxury is time with my family. Luxury is celebration. Enjoying a fine glass of Hibiki 21 scotch and a Cohiba Cuban cigar with friends or a meaningful trip with my wife to Taormina, Sicily, are great luxuries.”
ASHWANI K. “SONNY” SETHI CEO, TARA “Traditionally, luxury was about extravagance not obtainable by all, but today luxury is more about the quality of one’s life. Luxury is making a woman feel her best when she puts on a Tara Pearls necklace that took me seven years to collect. It’s not just about acquiring a materialistic object but having social responsibility while creating art. Luxury is scouring the world and exhausting all my efforts to create one special masterpiece. Luxury is the blood and sweat that goes into these creations and the resulting appreciation and joy that each brings to the wearer.” SPRING 2018
Platinum ring with 6.73 ct. cushion-cut sapphire, 1.94 cts. t.w. cushion-cut sapphires, 1.24 cts. t.w. round sapphires, and 0.86 ct. t.w. diamonds; $100,000; Omi Privé; 877-6644367; omiprive.com
“Luxury is a rare combination where the right amount of elegance meets just the right amount of comfort. Providing personable, refined service that creates one-of-a-kind luxurious experiences is our goal. Yael Designs creates wearable works of art by personally picking the best-quality gems and checking every Yael creation after production. Luxury is timeless. Creating unforgettable jewelry heirlooms that will last throughout the years and be cherished forever is our goal and a standard of luxury.”
18k rose gold bracelet with 2.71 ct. morganite, 1.14 ct. white opal, and 0.37 ct. t.w. diamonds; $6,042; Yael Designs; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com
Museum collection day-to-night necklace with graduated color 15 mm–16 mm Tahitian pearls, 1.49 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 18k white gold clasp; $47,985; Tara; 888-575-TARA; tarapearls.com
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BGK Graphics
Salon LUX-137
#MyKindofJewelry 212.869.9393 • www.skashi.com • sales@skashi.com
LUXURY 16
VICTORIA TSE FOUNDER AND CEO, VTSE
PAUL TACORIAN CEO, TACORI “Luxury is legacy—building on decades of tradition and heritage, and redefining creative direction and designs with a refreshing emphasis on creating pieces that mark every moment that matters to the customer.”
RoyalT platinum wedding bands with 2.81 cts. t.w. diamonds, $13,990, 3.05 cts. t.w. diamonds, $18,490, 5.56 cts. t.w. diamonds, $27,190, and 2.27 cts. t.w. diamonds, $11,790; Tacori; 800-4219844; tacori.com
“For me, luxury means that a personal desire is added into my real life, whether it’s an item, a place, an experience, or quality time with my loved ones. The harder I work to make an aspirational goal into reality, the more significant the luxury is to me. Sometimes it’s splurging on a limited-edition Gucci Ophidia embroidered shoulder bag, and other times it’s being able to leave the office early to watch my son in a rowing competition alongside my other three kids and husband.”
18k rose gold earrings with 29.8 cts. t.w. unheated multicolored sapphires and diamonds; $19,000; VTse; 626-577-9288; vtsejewelry.com
SUSAN KLEMT WILLIAMS VICE PRESIDENT, ARTISTRY LTD. Colors of Paradise ring in 14k white gold with 8.49 ct. pink tourmaline and 0.17 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,550; Artistry Ltd.; artistrylimited.com
SPRING 2018
“Luxury is sitting on Mauna Kea Beach on the Big Island of Hawaii during sunset. It is being unconsciously aware of the sound of the ocean lapping against the shore, the quiet chatter from other adults, and squeals of joy from children as they all relish the gifts of Mother Nature. Turning to the left, there is a beautiful bluff. To the right, the historic Mauna Kea hotel is nestled unassumingly into the landscape. This is luxury in paradise.”
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LUXURY 18
DESIGNER PROFILE
ETHICS & CLASS How Jennifer Dawes built her namesake jewelry brand on sustainability BY MATT VILLANO
Blockette cuff in 14k yellow gold with 0.92 ct. t.w. amethyst and 0.79 ct. t.w. iolite; $2,125; Jennifer Dawes Design; 888-802-0880; dawes-design.com
S
O MANY POSSIBILITIES. It’s one of Jennifer Dawes’ taglines for her Sonoma County, Calif.–based jewelry business, Jennifer Dawes Design, but it might as well be the mantra for her life. Known for
her modern organic aesthetic, vintage details, and holistic attitude toward art, Dawes has taken quite a circuitous path to where she is today. Along the way, she has sharpened her craft while evolving as a human being, embracing sustainability, and establishing herself as a true leader in the industry.
This year, Dawes celebrates her 18th year in business—a milestone she’s calling her “18k anniversary.” And for the 47-year-old native of Rye, N.Y., the excitement over creating new pieces that showcase the very best metalsmithing and gems is just as intense as ever. “I used to be really concerned that
my work was too diverse, that my biggest weakness was that I didn’t have this one look that most designers have,” she says. “What I’ve found is that it’s actually my biggest strength. I design from the heart. I let the materials lead. I’m not bogged down by a look. This is as authentic as it gets.”
Blockette rings in 18k yellow gold with 0.13 ct. blue sapphire and 0.34 ct. t.w. lavender sapphire baguettes, $1,625, 0.64 ct. kite-shape pale green opaque diamond and 0.9 ct. t.w. creamy opaque diamond baguettes, $2,775, 0.87 ct. indicolite center and 0.34 ct. t.w. green sapphires, $1,525, 0.43 ct. diamond center and 0.25 ct. t.w. diamond side stones, $5,375, 0.43 ct. rhodolite garnet and 0.37 ct. t.w. pink sapphire baguettes, $2,000 SPRING 2018
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LUXURY 20
Relic Golden Gate necklace in 14k yellow gold with 1.02 ct. rose-cut emerald and 0.08 ct. t.w. round full-cut diamond pavé on 16-inch chain; $2,500
“I design from the heart. I let the materials lead. I’m not bogged down by a look. This is as authentic as it gets.”
Relic 18k white gold Golden Gate band with 1.98 ct. rose-cut oval blue sapphire and diamond pavé, $4,200; Blockette jackets in 18k white gold with diamond pavé, $1,950 each
—Jennifer Dawes
Hewn taper ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.42 ct. hexagonshape cognac diamond and 0.08 ct. t.w. pavé light brown diamonds; $3,500
HUMBLE BEGINNINGS Dawes came to jewelry-making through metalwork. When she was 18, she took a postgraduate year at Michigan’s Interlochen Center for the Arts, and within the first hour of her first metalsmithing class, she says she had a “transcendental experience” and knew what she wanted to do for the rest of her life: Work with metals. “To me, the manipulation of metal was such an ancient and magical kind of alchemical experience,” she remembers. “To be able to take a very hard substance and make it act like clay was so fascinating to me, and that’s what captured me.” In the years that followed, through and after college (she moved to the West Coast in 1992 to attend California College of Arts and Crafts), Dawes worked as a blacksmith and as a structural steel welder before starting her own architectural metal company in the late 1990s. One of her contractors refused to pay, essentially forcing her to shutter the business. To make ends meet, she took a job with a local jewelry designer. In 2000, she struck out on her own. SPRING 2018
Dawes struggled during those first few years, focusing more on technique than anything else, building her business but never really falling in love with what she was making and why she was making it. Finally, in 2006, while pregnant with her first child, she had another breakthrough. “I realized that I either had to stop doing what I was doing or I had to tear it all down and do it all differently,” she says. “From that point on, I embraced sustainability—this notion of creating something for my child and not taking away from the world. That’s when my work kind of loosened, became more organic, became more about an expression of my art.”
SUSTAINABLE GOALS This new mindset meant a lot more effort on the front end. Dawes started using recycled golds and conflict-free gems so she could keep tabs on where her materials were sourced. To this day, the stones she chooses are ethically mined and often have a paper trail leading back to the mine and cutting facility from which they originated. She’s also a board member of Ethical Metalsmiths. Once Dawes has charted the most sustainable path to each project, she designs in her Santa Rosa, Calif., studio with a clear mind, stepping back and letting the materials lead. “I’m not in this business to make
money; I’m interested in making beautiful things,” says Dawes, adding that most of her pieces retail between $2,000 and $5,000. “When I work with clients, essentially what I’m trying to do is create mini-vacations for them. This way every time they look at a piece of their jewelry, their breath is taken away. That’s how I know I’ve done my job well.” This approach has attracted the attention of customers and store owners far and wide. In California, customers from all walks of life perk up at the mention of Dawes’ name. (She is a bit of a local celebrity in and around wine country.) Her ethics are another selling point for shoppers. Her willingness to stand JCKONLINE.COM
LUXURY 22
Hewn eternity rings in 18k rose gold with 0.98 ct. t.w. opaque diamonds, $2,950 each; custom 18k yellow gold Etruscan oval diamond band, $2,750 (without center stone); Relic 18k yellow gold Golden Gate band with 0.1 ct. t.w. white diamonds, $2,200
behind her work means she’ll fix any ring for any reason at any point. In many cases, Dawes not only repairs the ring but also actually makes minor improvements—resetting pavé diamonds that have fallen out from constant wear or remaking settings entirely rather than just patching broken bands or bezels. Like her clients, Dawes’ retailers are enthusiastic about both her business practices—which encourage confidence in the brand—and her design style. “There is something really enchanting about each of her pieces,” says Faran Peterson, sales manager at The Clay Pot in Brooklyn, N.Y. “The combination of satin finish over delicately hewn or hammered rings lends a certain ethereal glow to the gold.”
MARKETING MAVEN In recent years, social media has been a huge part of Dawes’ success— starting with her website, where she has built an entire page of customer stories. On her Instagram account (@jenniferdawesdesign), which had nearly 52,000 followers at press time, she mixes artsy product pics with images of clients, store owners, and unidentified ring-stacking shots. Every now and again she’ll throw in a behind-thescenes photo, like a basket of eggs from the chickens that roam her ranch. Dawes insists she’s still trying to decipher the ins and outs of Instagram (she calls it a “quandary”), adding that while she’s worked hard to develop an organic following, she still hasn’t figured out how to track conversions from this platform. Pinterest, meanwhile, has been a great referral SPRING 2018
Hewn 18k rose gold earrings with 3.66 cts. t.w. pear-shape morganites and 0.06 ct. t.w. diamond connectors in 18k yellow gold; $3,225
generator; Dawes declines to provide specifics, but says she’s gotten “many clients” from her Pinterest boards. “There’s a resonance I think that I hit with people with my work,” she says, “because it comes from a very authentic place. I’m trying to do the right thing and be the voice of doing
the right thing in the industry. I think it all just comes together.”
NEW DIRECTIONS All great artists reinvent themselves continuously, and Dawes is no exception. As she celebrates her company’s
18k milestone, she describes a host of plans for the future, including a new housewares line—she calls it “jewelry for your home”—that will incorporate large-scale welded-steel sculptural projects. In the meantime, Dawes will debut two jewelry lines at LUXURY during Las Vegas jewelry week: a white-diamond engagement line and a mountings collection. Later in the year, she hopes to introduce a new jewelry line incorporating a different kind of metal— metal debris from the back part of her ranch that burned in Northern California’s devastating October 2017 wildfires. (Dawes herself didn’t lose anything, but her husband’s metal shop was destroyed.) And she’ll continue to focus on mentoring young jewelry designers who are hoping to break into the business. She participates in the San Francisco– based Project Mentor program, which works to inspire and prepare women to become leaders in creative fields, and she has hosted three interns at her company in the last year. Dawes sees these efforts as part of her emphasis on sustainability, considering that mentorship facilitates the long-term health of the industry. “I have learned a lot through more than 30 years of experience, and it’s important to give support, guidance, and mentorship to people starting out in the industry,” she says. “This is not an easy industry to break into, and as retail is changing you have to either be incredibly innovative or independently wealthy to get into stores and build a brand. If I can help someone navigate that, it’s a role I want to play.” JCKONLINE.COM
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CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2018 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS FIRST PLACE WINNERS! Be sure to visit all the winners at this year’s LUXURY show. Best Bracelet Design $2,500 & Under
Best Necklace Design $2,500 & Under
Fashion/Bridge Jewelry $500 & Under
Shy Creation LUX-1836
Shy Creation LUX-1836
Marahlago LUX-1737
Best Bracelet Design $2,501–$10,000
Best Necklace Design $2,501–$10,000
Gold Jewelry $2,500 & Under
Shy Creation LUX-1836
Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Necklace Design Over $10,000
Gold Jewelry Over $2,500
Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Bracelet Design Over $10,000 Bapalal Keshavlal LUX-P1820
Best Bridal Design $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Bridal Design $2,501–$5,000 Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Bridal Design Over $10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Best Earring Design $2,500 & Under GRAND PRIZE WINNER Shy Creation LUX-1836
Best Earring Design $2,501–$10,000 Parlé Jewelry Designs LUX-1704
Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Best Ring Design $2,501–$10,000 CrownRing LUX-1315
Best Statement Piece Over $30,000 Parlé Jewelry Designs LUX-1704
Colored Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Colored Stone Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Beverley K LUX-P1909
Diamond Jewelry $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUX-1836
Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032 Booth numbers as of May issue close 4/4/18.
Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Men’s Jewelry Over $1,000 Shy Creation LUX-1836
Mixed Metal Jewelry Over $1,000 Lika Behar Collection LUX-P1921
Platinum Jewelry Over $10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUX-1032
Silver Jewelry Over $1,000 Vahan Jewelry LUX-127
Tanzanite Jewelry $10,000 & Under Beverley K LUX-P1909