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CIRARI
For almost four decades, F. Mark Funk has seen some legendary changes in the industry. While they’ve always been a challenge, being up to challenges and making friends was his reward. To reopen the economy and the industry, CIRARI has put together a program that is the strongest partnership he has ever created—and he believes retailers will agree. The “Fall 2020” program has the terms retailers need: exceptional product for live delivery, a great sales team, and a safety net that will create a profitable season with a clean start to 2021.
Q&A
NUMBER OF YEARS IN THE BUSINESS:
39
NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES: More than 500 across
the globe WHAT DOES CIRARI OFFER? Everything from rare pink diamonds to the hot Ethiopian opal, with price points from $150 to $15,000. We also have the tools retailers need that make working with Cirari affordable and risk-free. WHICH DESIGNS ARE CURRENTLY THE MOST IN DEMAND? The Ethiopian opal is in strong demand
right now. Consumers love the look and the value.
IF YOU COULD HAVE DINNER WITH THREE PEOPLE (LIVING OR DEAD), WHO WOULD THEY BE?
Colonel Tom Parker—with Elvis, of course. There was never a better marketing genius. Abraham Lincoln. My father. He recently passed and now—now!—I decide I should have listened to him more. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU OFFER SOMEONE WHO WANTS TO BREAK INTO THE BUSINESS?
For retailers, I would say location, location, and partnerships with vendors. You can have the greatest location, but if you’re hindered by your vendors, you will fail.
FAVORITE PASTIME:
Shooting, LSU football WHAT IS ON YOUR BUCKET LIST? To someday
slow down and relax FIRST APP YOU OPEN ON YOUR PHONE:
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE TREND RIGHT NOW?
There’s definitely a trend to price points that offer great value. HOW HAS YOUR BUSINESS CHANGED, IF AT ALL, IN RECENT YEARS? As our company
responds to the new normal, we are seeing that our industry will have challenges like many others. Partnering with vendors like us who want to help retailers will be key. WHAT LIES AHEAD FOR CIRARI? Independent stores in America need our help, now more than ever. Coming out of this economic malaise, we vendors must help retailers jumpstart their businesses and get consumers back into their stores. FIRST MAJOR PIECE OF JEWELRY YOU PURCHASED: It was an 18k men’s belcher setting,
diamond solitaire ring with a brilliant, one-carat stone. It became the engagement ring for my fiancée. INDUSTRY MEMBER WHO HAS HAD THE GREATEST INFLUENCE ON YOU: I’ve had several
mentors in the industry. Most were in sales and marketing. Some were key retailers like Windsor Jewelers in Augusta, GA, and Anton’s Fine Jewelry in Baton Rouge, LA. Others were unique, eclectic retailers like my friends at Worthmore Jewelers in Atlanta, GA.
IF YOU WEREN’T IN THE JEWELRY BUSINESS, WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING? Running a sales
team in the real estate industry. Always loved it and understand it well. FAMILY AND PETS: My daughter is 26 and my son is 22. Both are smarter than I am, and I have great respect for them. My pets are my fish because I travel so much.
Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, all left open continuously. Sales, marketing, branding, information, education, and business relationships all at your fingertips! FAVORITE TRAVEL DESTINATION: Any island with warm weather, blue skies, warm clear blue water, and drinks with umbrellas!
CIRARI FALL 2020 PROGRAM HELPING YOUR BUSINESS IN THE CHALLENGING MONTHS AHEAD You need inventory, but you’re not sure how quickly your business will come back. However, you must have it on hand so that you won’t miss a single sale. Our program will help build your inventory today, prepare you for any event quickly and with the least amount of risk, and start your payments when the summer is over. Minimum selection Must agree to asset of Payments Payments start Inventory on January 15, 2021 Return agreement Asset stock balancing Delivery on the spot
$50,000 $30,000 10 payments of $3,000 each August 28, 2020 Review in store with Account Exec Can return up to $20,000 no strings 1:1 stock balancing on the remainder You select ALL items
fmarkfunk@colorjewels.net
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www.cirari.com
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JIS October Show #1502
reuniting save the date
Friday, June 4 – Monday, June 7, 2021 Opening June 3 for JCK Talks, The Exchange and Gemstones SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS
J C KO N L I N E . C O M / L AS V E GAS @JCKEVENTS
#JCKLASVEGAS
YOU’RE INVITED TO EXPERIENCE AN UPSCALE BUYING ENVIRONMENT
B Y I N V I T A T I O N O N LY
Wednesday, June 2 – Thursday, June 3, 2021 O P E N TO A L L J C K L A S V E G A S AT T E N D E E S
Friday, June 4 – Monday, June 7, 2021 THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS
CONTENTS
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26
COVER
MOD IN AMERICA
In an envy-inspiring array of fashion–meets–fine jewelry, model Anaïs Pouliot mixes the grooviness of the 1960s with this season’s top accessory trends (feathers! links! pearls!).
(FROM TOP) PHOTO BY JASON KIM; COURTESY OF ALEX WOO; ILLUSTRATION BY LISA BAYER/@SKETCHNYC; BERT STERN/CONDÉ NAST VIA GETTY
34
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON KIM
FEATURES 34
IT’S A FALL WORLD Why not virtually try on a few fabulous new fashion styles? BY VENESSA LAU
40
DECISION 2020 How the presidential election will affect key issues in the industry. BY WHITNEY SIELAFF
42
HOW WILL RETAIL BOUNCE BACK? According to experts, slowly. BY ROB BATES
44
SERVICE INDUSTRY Jewelers open their hearts during the coronavirus crisis. BY EMILI VESILIND
DEPARTMENTS 10 12
COVER LOOK JEWEL BOX
5 things rocking the industry
14 16 18 21
FROM THE EDITOR FROM THE PUBLISHER SOCIAL DIARY NEWS GEMS
COVID-19 brings the jewelry trade to a standstill.
52 THE WAY WE WORE Model-of-the-moment Twiggy accessorizes to the max in a 1967 Vogue photo. JUNE 2020
JCKONLINE.COM
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52
DRIPPING IN GOLD
2 01 -2 4 4 -1 1 5 0
midaschain.com
Cover Look
10
14k yellow gold Royal signet ring; $2,475; Ariel Gordon Jewelry; 213-488-2618; ariel gordonjewelry.com
Gold chain layered necklace in 22k gold– plated brass; $295; Nest Jewelry; 972-569-8959; nestjewelry.com
JCKONLINE.COM
Stone-studded crumpled drop goldtone earrings with crystals; $245; Alexis Bittar; 877-6809017; alexisbittar.com
Open Link 14k yellow gold bracelet; $6,000; Royal Chain Group; 800-6220960; royalchain.com
14k yellow gold Lucia large cuff bangle; $5,200; Phillip Gavriel; 800-622-0960; phillipgavriel.com
Chunky Concave ring in 14k yellow gold; $1,250; Zoë Chicco; 213-4891226; zoechicco.com
Gold-plated brass Ridge cuff; $275; Lizzie Fortunato; 212-777-1008; lizziefortunato.com
Royal Charm bracelet in 24k gold–plated tin alloy with glass; $320; Ben-Amun by Isaac Manevitz; 212-944-6480 ext. 102; ben-amun.com
10k yellow gold– plated brass Chain Link cuff; $245; Alexis Bittar
MAKE IT FASHION JCK ’s glamorous annual ode to fall’s top trends and best accessories
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON KIM Hair: MARCELINO/L’ATELIER Makeup: MISHA SHAHZADA USING MARC JACOBS BEAUTY/FORWARD ARTISTS Stylist: DANIEL EDLEY/WALTER SCHUPFER Manicurist: MICHINA KOIDE USING DIOR VERNIS/ART DEPARTMENT Model: ANAÏS POULIOT/NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT Turtleneck: COS; Hat: ERIC JAVITS JUNE 2020
23k yellow gold– plated brass baguette inlay link bracelet with Swarovski crystals; $195; Via Saviene; 212-2193793; viasaviene.com
Not pictured: Maratua Island gold-plated necklace; $240; UNOde50; wholesale@ unode50.com; unode50.com
The Essence of Timeless Design 18 Karat - Platinum - Fine Gems
Thank you Retailers for your support
WINNER/FINALIST OF THE JCK JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS FOR 12 CONSECUTIVE YEARS SINCE 2009
Office: 1633 Bayshore Highway Ste #136 Tel: (415) - 621 - 8880 WWW.JYESCORP.COM
12
JUNE 2020
the industry authority
5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY
Jewel box
Pavé Classica 14k white gold bracelet with 1.37 cts. t.w. diamonds; $8,995; Effy; 877-275-3339; effyjewelry.com
Golden Globe ring in 18k gold with gemstones; $9,750; Dorian & Rose; 818-640-8480; @ dorianandrose
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DIAMONDS Martin Rapaport has faced blowback many times in his 42 years of publishing his widely read diamond price list, but the latest furor seems to have hit him where it hurts. On March 20, after the extent of the COVID-19 crisis became known, prices on the Rapaport Price List dropped an average of 7%. In protest, Israeli dealer Doron Serrouya took his stock off Rapaport’s online exchange, RapNet, and publicized his move on WhatsApp and Instagram. Others followed suit. At press time, RapNet, which generally listed $8 billion in goods, was carrying less than half that. The World Federation of Diamond Bourses now plans to introduce its own rival service. As a result, Rapaport promised changes to his list: It will be issued monthly, rather than weekly, and he will appoint an advisory board to guide decisions. But he maintains he had “no choice” but to lower prices: “After 42 years, I’m not going to lie,” Rapaport tells JCK. “I don’t think anyone challenges the fact that prices went down. They just challenge that we published it.”
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SHOWS For decades, the jewelry calendar has largely pivoted on two events: the holiday season and JCK Las Vegas. In this year when so much that was once unthinkable has become reality, Reed Jewelry Group (the owner of JCK and JCKonline.com) has announced that JCK Las Vegas and its sister show, Luxury, will not be held this year, due to COVID-19. Instead, Reed will hold a virtual event this summer and is also inviting JCK Las Vegas exhibitors to join its Jewelers International Showcase (JIS) October show in Miami. “JCK Virtual 2020 will be a celebration of the industry, offering moments of reconnection during a week dedicated to bringing the industry back together online,” said Sarin Bachmann, group vice president for JCK and Luxury. “One of the questions we keep hearing most from our customers this year is: How are we going to connect? JCK Virtual is our answer to this, offering jewelry professionals digital opportunities to learn, set appointments, view trends, and find inventory before the holiday season.” JCKONLINE.COM
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WATCHES In February, Baselworld canceled its April 2020 fair due to the spread of COVID-19. Now it looks like it might be canceled for good. After it scrapped 2020, owner MCH Group scheduled the 2021 edition for January, leading exhibitors to complain that the new dates overlapped with the VicenzaOro and Tucson shows. They also griped about the 2020 refund policy, which hurt vendors that couldn’t attend in 2021. All of which ticked off two of the show’s biggest names—Rolex and Patek Philippe—leading them, along with Chanel, Chopard, and Tudor, to form their own April 2021 event in Geneva. MCH has since called off Baselworld 2021, and a spokesperson admits it’s not sure how, or if, the show will come back, though it will likely be called something different: “After the departure of the big watch brands, it will certainly no longer be Baselworld as we have known it.”
Small Diamond Bulla Hook earrings in 22k gold; $2,580; Prounis Jewelry; studio@ prounisjewelry. com; prounis jewelry.com
CHARITY Some of the industry’s biggest brands are donating sizable sums to aid worldwide COVID-19 relief efforts. De Beers Group contributed $2.5 million to help Botswana and Namibia respond to the crisis. The World Health Organization’s COVID-19 Solidarity Response Fund benefited from $1 million from London-based Graff and $750,000 from the Tiffany & Co. Foundation, which gave an additional $250,000 to the New York Community Trust’s NYC COVID-19 Response & Impact Fund. Meanwhile, luxury conglomerate Kering Group, owner of jewelers Boucheron and Pomellato and watch brands Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux, donated $1 million to the CDC Foundation, which supports the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s health protection work. “Our priorities are clear,” said De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver. “Prepare communities for the crisis, support the emergency response, and be a partner in economic recovery.”
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NECKLACE: COURTESY OF TIFFANY & CO.
GOLD
The past few months haven’t been good for many investors, but those holding gold are enjoying quite a ride. In April, the metal’s spot price crossed $1,700 an ounce—its highest level since November 2012. And that might be just the beginning. In late April, two Bank of America analysts predicted that the price of bullion could hit $3,000 by the end of next year—an upgrade from their previous prediction of $2,000. The yellow metal remains “the ultimate store of value,” the analysts said. “The Fed can’t print gold.”
2020 Extraordinary Tiffany High Jewelry pendant in platinum with diamonds and 10+ ct. emerald; price on request; Tiffany & Co.
JUNE 2020
from the editor
W
Nuevo Mundo brooch with tourmaline, opals, diamonds, tsavorite, garnets, sapphires, and rubies; price on request; Lydia Courteille; 212-219-3793; lydiacourteille.com
Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com
WE BEGAN WORKING on this issue in January, six months and a lifetime ago. Many jewelers had just come off an extremely successful 2019 and brimmed with optimism for the year ahead. Then came the new coronavirus. I’ve watched the catastrophe unfold from my home in Los Angeles. As of this writing, I haven’t been directly affected by COVID-19, but I’ve grieved for the families who have lost loved ones, and agonized over the millions of Americans worried about putting food on the table. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t also concerned about the fate of our industry. While I have no doubt that people’s desire for jewelry will endure this (and every) crisis, businesses can be surprisingly fragile. There’s so much talk in the public sphere about our local restaurants and bars—will they survive? But what about our local jewelers? We’re doing our best to help retailers around the country remain hubs of connection in their cities and towns. And to remind you that the power of storytelling—to soothe, inform, and inspire—will help us all survive the pandemic and whatever comes next. This issue includes three features that take stock of current events: News director Rob Bates’ “How Will Retail Bounce Back?” (page 42) offers a hopeful glimpse of what a post–COVID-19 recovery might look like; senior editor Emili Vesilind’s “Service I ndustry” (page 44) shines a light on the jewelry trade’s grace under pressure; and contributor Whitney Sielaff’s “Decision 2020” (page 40) considers how this year’s presidential race will affect key industry issues. Fashion, the other theme of this issue (see Venessa Lau’s “It’s a Fall World,” page 34), may seem frivolous at a time like this. But if you’re anything like me, glimmers of what the world used to feel like give me hope we’ll return there soon—kinder, wiser, and more committed to a future in which respect for the earth and her awesome power becomes second nature. JCKONLINE.COM
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES
hat. A. Year.
made in the usa for 108 years! Hoover & Strong is a manufacturer of over 30,000 eco-friendly and responsible Harmony jewelry products, all Made in the USA since 1912. Over the last decade, we have grown our Harmony brand to include recycled precious metals, recycled diamonds, USA lab grown diamonds and most recently artisanal metals.
Our recycled metals are sourced directly from our on site refinery, which is fed by precious metal scrap from customers across the USA. Utilizing environmentallyfriendly refining techniques that always exceed federal, state and local regulations, we are proud to be one of the world’s greenest refiners. Over the course of our 108-year history, Hoover & Strong has maintained 100% of its operations within the USA. Coworkers across all divisions including our office, mill, findings and refinery, all work in the same facility located in Richmond, Virginia.
Working closely together keeps our communication lines open to ensure our customers receive superior customer service and top-quality products. Our number one priority is our commitment to our coworkers and our customers, both of which have made our long history possible. We are honored to be part of our local and international communities and believe it is our duty to give back. Every year, we contribute to local organizations and charities that support the arts and help families in need. Habitat for Humanity, Visual Arts Center and CERF+ (Craft Emergency Relief Fund) are just a few of the local organizations we support. To help our international community, we partner with and support various artisanal mines in Colombia, Peru and the DRC. This support includes donations towards clean-up efforts and purchases of mined artisanal gold, which we use for a select group of mill product offerings. All mining partners receive a fair price for their gold which contributes to the growth and well-being of their communities. With a strong commitment to responsibility, growth and sustainability in the USA, we look forward to paying it forward for another 100 years and beyond!
www.hooverandstrong.com
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info@hooverandstrong.com
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800-759-9997
FROM THE PUBLISHER
I
Our son and intrepid backyard explorer, Nolen
Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com
GREETINGS FROM MY “home office” (our spare bedroom in Lancaster, Pa.). Since COVID-19 rocked the world in ways unimaginable just a few months ago, people around the country have been isolated in their homes and are just now adjusting to the new normal. In the first week of the pandemic, the CEO of the Diamond Producers Association, David Kellie, convened industry leaders to announce a new B2B effort, the Jeweler Support Network (jewelersupportnetwork.com), and a business-to-consumer portal, Support Your Local Jeweler (supportyourlocaljeweler.com). Both sites seek to highlight and celebrate the role that local jewelers play during this crisis. Soon after, American Gem Society president John Carter began posting lighthearted but essential videos on his website to bring some levity and information to fellow retailers. This year, the AGS Conclave went digital, and I enjoyed “seeing” many friends during the webinars, digital meet-ups, and more. The trade publications—led, of course, by JCK—stepped forward with an endless flow of content to help retailers cope in these difficult times. We’ve also seen many jewelry manufacturers—including some longtime JCK and JCKonline supporters—come to market with messages of moral support, tactical support, and ways they can help enhance whatever digital sales independent retailers are able to conduct. I’ve always loved this business, and the way industry leaders have faced reality, advanced solutions, and banded together is truly inspirational. I’ve also realized that while business travel and conference attendance can feel difficult, they only need to be taken away for you to realize the role they play in your career and in your personal life. Once the fear of the unknown subsided and I was able to take stock, I began to grieve acutely for the lack of personal contact. Thank you all for your support and friendship. I cannot wait to see my friends in person soon. In the meantime, try and enjoy this time to focus on family, and I’ll do the same! JCKONLINE.COM
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS PRAKAS
t’s a time for hope.
Social Diary
QUARANTINE LIFE
1
THE WFH EDITION Like the rest of us, designers and retailers spent spring 2020 working from home. Here we highlight some of our favorite moments of jewelry life under lockdown.
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Now that we’ve seen Sorellina co-owner Nicole Carosella’s gem-themed wallpaper, we want to redecorate our office.
Designer Ariana Boussard-Reifel is sticking close to her look-alike mom, Dana Boussard. JUNE 2020
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Crystals, floral prints, and layered chains: Designer Jacquie Aiche goes for a “classic California girl vibe.”
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Omi Privé’s Niveet Nagpal works on his core strength.
J.R. Dunn Jewelers’ customer service specialist Steve Pryor is a master multitasker.
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Esqueleto L.A. regional manager Allison Heutsche stays cozy in scarves and blankets from Texas-based brand Garza Marfa.
Cleo Zancope Gnatek of Jane Taylor Jewelry fits in work “literally wherever and whenever” she can.
British designer Stephen Webster keeps busy with colored pencils and Quality Street chocolates.
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3: DPA/PHOTOGRAPHER MIGUEL HERRERA/ CREATIVE PRODUCER JENNIFER CSENGODY
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the industry authority
JUNE 2020
NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE
NEWS GEMS CORONAVIRUS BRINGS JEWELRY TRADE TO A STANDSTILL
I
BY ROB BATES
Love in Verona bangles in 18k gold with diamonds; $4,950–$6,950; Roberto Coin; 212-486-4545; robertocoin.com
N MARCH, THE pandemic caused by COVID-19 disrupted the jewelry trade—and the world—to an unprecedented degree, with jewelry retailers and businesses across the United States and the world forced to close. At press time, many retailers around the country had reopened or were poised to reopen in the wake of government-mandated lockdowns that saw an estimated 630,000 U.S. stores close their doors. Many big retailers, including Signet, Macy’s, and J.C. Penney, closed their North American stores and put their workers on furlough, which means they can collect unemployment but still receive benefits. Small retailers felt the pain most acutely; many faced the agonizing choice of either not paying their employees or going out of business. Congress responded with a $2 trillion
JCKONLINE.COM
stimulus package meant to bail out smaller companies, with billions of dollars in loans administered by the Small Business Administration and SBA-approved lenders. And while many online companies were able to carry on with operations, others were affected. The U.S. branch of Net-a-Porter, for example, suspended operations because it could no longer staff its fulfillment centers. Some jewelers did remain open. For instance, Florida declared pawnshops and certain jewelry stores essential services, because they provided a financial service: t rade-ins. But the Florida jewelers who talked to McClatchy news service said business was mixed. Jewelers weren’t the only ones who had to change their plans: Many prominent industry events— including JCK Las Vegas, Couture,
NEWS GEMS
THE SCOOP
New York City’s 47th Street during the shutdown
the American Gem Society Conclave, and Baselworld—were postponed, canceled, or switched to digital formats. De Beers Group canceled its April sight in Botswana due to that country’s travel restrictions—the only time it has canceled a sight in recent memory, likely since World War II, a spokesperson said. Diamond cutting also ceased in India, after that country went into a 21-day lockdown. Watchmakers including Rolex and Patek Philippe closed their factories—and, in a first, Patek Philippe actually let some of its jewelers sell online. Other manufacturers, like Chow Tai Fook and
LVMH-owned Bulgari, turned their factories into producers of s uddenly sought-after supplies such as hand sanitizer and face masks. At press time, numerous people in the jewelry business said they had contracted the disease, and five in the United States are believed to have died from it: Julio Ramirez, a 43-year-old senior account executive with M.K. Diamonds; Randy Flatau, owner of Randy’s Fine Jewelers in Beaumont, Texas; metals artist Hellyn Moore Pawula; Bob Sears Siragusa, a former watch executive; and New York City diamond dealer Manny Gordon. For the most part, jewelers have
embraced the restrictions—even those who worry about their business being the virus’ next victim. Speaking from Italy—one of the first countries to be hit hard by the illness—legendary designer Roberto Coin remarked that the social distancing measures, as burdensome as they are, were necessary in the face of such a dangerous and unpredictable illness. “Business will come back,” he said. “People don’t come back.”
“My uncle passed away when he was really young. I have his watch and it literally comes with me everywhere. There’s never been a performance that I’ve gone on stage and not held it in my hand for a second.”
Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com
—Singer Fletcher, talking about a Bulova watch on a video for the brand’s Tune of Time campaign
47TH STREET: DIAMOND DISTRICT PARTNERSHIP; FLETCHER: COURTESY OF BULOVA
22
Gesswein & Sisma. . .
Together Providing Precision and Profitability a 20 year master jeweler, I have been fortunate with success over “As the years. But buying a Sisma Laser from Gesswein completely changed the game. I can now do jobs with greater precision than ever before, while doubling my profits on repairs. My only regret is not getting one sooner! – Matt Lang, Owner and Master Jeweler, Lang Jewelers, Gainesville, FL.
”
For full line of Sisma Jewelry Welders, Visit www.gesswein.com/sisma-jewelry or call 203.366.5400 x204 For More Info & Pricing
Matt Lang Lang Jewelers
www.gesswein.com 800.243.4466
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EXHIBIT AT JIS
Most Anticipated JIS OCTOBER October 13 - 16, 2020 Miami Beach Convention Center JISSHOW.COM/OCTOBER
The Newest JIS DELIVERY - SAN DIEGO November 13 - 15, 2020 San Diego Convention Center JISSHOW.COM/SANDIEGO Trade–Only Jewelry Event
At–Show Delivery and Order Writing Permitted
Access to Unique International Buyers
Most Anticipated Jewelry Shows of 2020
Exhibitors who book a booth at both JIS October and JIS Delivery - San Diego will receive promotional pricing. For more information on participating at JIS this fall, reach out to Luke Massella, JIS Events Sales Manager, today!
Luke Massella | Sales Manager | 203-840-5838 | LMassella@reedexpo.com JISSHOW.COM | #JISSHOW
OCTOBER 13 – 16, 2020 miami beach convention center
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miami beach, fl
“Most Anticipated” Join us in Miami Beach, Florida for JIS October 2020, the jewelry
industry’s most important buying event this year. JIS October is the most expansive, diverse show of the year, featuring an array of international and specialty pavilions, exciting special events, smart event technology, exhibitor recommendation programs,
and much more.
JI SSH OW.C OM/OC TOB E R 1 (800) 840-5612 jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com
S TAY C O N N E C T E D A N D S O C I A L | # J I S S H O W
MOD IN AMERICA I N A N E N V Y - I N S P I R I N G A R R AY O F FA S H I O N – M E E T S – F I N E J E W E L R Y, M O D E L A N A Ï S P O U L I O T M I X E S T H E GROOVINESS OF THE 1960s WITH THIS SEASON’S TO P A C C E S S O RY T R E N D S ( F E AT H E R S ! L I N K S ! P E A R L S ! )
Photography by Jason Kim
C r e a t i v e D i r e c t o r Pe t e r Ya t e s P h o t o g r a p h y D i r e c t o r F r e y d a Ta v i n
(Opposite page) Jelly Pops citrus resin hoop earrings, $34, Fossil, 800-969-0900, fossil. com; Caramel acrylic Arc cuff, $195, Caramel acrylic Meridian cuff, $195, Lizzie Fortunato, 212-7771008, lizziefortunato. com; crystal-studded hand-carved Lucite bangle, $345, Alexis Bittar, 877-680-9017, alexisbittar.com; Triple
Hoop necklace (worn as bracelet) with Czech crystal and 14k yellow gold–plated brass, $325, Lele Sadoughi, 212-228-8422, lelesadoughi.com; Lollipop 18k green gold Carnevale ring with white ceramic shank, mother-of-pearl, and 0.16 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,795, Ippolita, sales@ippolita.com, ippolita.com
HAIR: MARCELINO/L’ATELIER; MAKEUP: MISHA SHAHZADA USING MARC JACOBS BEAUTY/ FORWARD ARTISTS; MANICURE: MICHINA KOIDE/DIOR VERNIS/ART DEPARTMENT
Stylist Daniel Edley Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi
(PREVIOUS PAGE) FEATHER DRESS: CULT GAIA; HAT: ERIC JAVITS; (L.) DRESS: PROENZA SCHOULER; (R.) KNIT DRESS: COS
Nada earrings in 14k gold plated–brass with CZ and natural wood, $120, Yun Yun Sun, 212-2193793, yun-yun-sun.com; NightBird silver-plated short metal necklace with Swarovski blue crystals, $1,065, UNOde50, wholesale@unode50. com, unode50.com; Obelisco 18k white gold bracelet with 1.68 cts. t.w. diamonds, $16,500, Roberto Coin, 212-4864545, robertocoin.com; Build ring in platinumplated sterling silver with 2.6 cts. t.w. CZ, $245, Crislu, 310-322-3444, b2b.crislu.com; Classic chain bracelet in antique silver-plated brass, $195, Ben-Amun by Isaac Manevitz, 212-944-6480 ext. 102, ben-amun.com; Build bracelet in platinumplated sterling silver with 8.4 cts. t.w. CZ, $495, Crislu; Raffia Link silver flex bracelet, $68, Lauren Ralph Lauren, 844-8548326, thejewelrygroup. com; I Am Beautiful sterling silver ring with CZ and crystal, $145, Pharaoun, 646-883-0890, pharaoun.com
18k green gold Lollipop Lollitini necklace with turquoise, blue apatite, blue topaz, rock crystal, mother-of-pearl, lapis triplet, and Peruvian amazonite, $6,595, Ippolita, sales@ippolita. com, ippolita.com; 18k yellow gold Viper bracelet with 7.63 cts. t.w. rainbow sapphires, 1.5 cts. t.w. tsavorite, and 0.19 ct. t.w. demantoid garnets, $18,200, Robinson Pelham, 44-207-8283492, robinsonpelham. com; Queen of Hearts 18k gold double finger ring with green Tahitian pearl, 0.68 ct. t.w. diamonds, and 2.79 cts. t.w. blue, pink, orange, and yellow sapphires, tsavorite, rubies, and aquamarines, $9,489, Rosa Van Parys, 818928-4430, rosavanparys. com; 18k yellow gold bracelet with 49.55
cts. t.w. multicolored sapphires and 3.17 cts. t.w. diamonds, $25,528, Cirari, 212-764-2823, cirari.com; 14k rose gold ring with 7.2 cts. t.w. multicolored sapphires and 0.24 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,585, Effy, 877-275-3339, effyjewelry. com; Mari 18k gold–plated silver and black ruthenium five-ring set (two shown) with labradorite and CZ, $225, Nadri, 201-585-0088, nadri.com; Miri 14k yellow gold ring with 0.39 ct. t.w. tourmaline, $1,495, İTÄ, 787-5995356, itajewelry.com
Hinged CZ pavé link earrings, $95, Carolee, 314-909-1651, carolee. com; 24k gold–plated tin alloy gold chain necklace with dangling glass pearl, $370, Ben-Amun by Isaac Manevitz, 212-944-6480 ext. 102, ben-amun.com; Gilded Treasures 18k yellow gold–plated brass ring with Swarovski Zirconia, $229, Atelier Swarovski, 212-6012568, atelierswarovski. com; 18k yellow gold Cube double ring with 0.47 ct. t.w. rubies and 0.33 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,100, Matthia’s & Claire, 312-320-3797, matthiasandclaire.com; Mrs. Bhikaiji gold-plated ring, $125, UNOde50,
wholesale@unode50. com, unode50.com; 22k yellow gold–plated brass Cage bangle, 22k yellow gold–plated brass hammered bangle, $75 each, Nest Jewelry, 972-5698959, nestjewelry.com; Gilded Treasures 18k yellow gold–plated brass cuff with Swarovski Zirconia, $549, Atelier Swarovski; Panther cuff with 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $1,800, Phillip Gavriel, 800-622-0960, phillipgavriel.com
(L.) TURTLENECK SWEATER: COS; (R.) DENIM JACKET: MICHAEL/ MICHAEL KORS; HAT: COS
18k gold Triple Drop crownwork hoops, $4,895, Ray Griffiths Fine Jewelry, 212689-7209, raygriffiths. com; Pino bronze ring, $450, Stortulina bronze chain, $900, Monica Castiglioni, 347-7030809, monicacastiglioni. com; chunky lariat necklace in 14k gold– plated silver, $165, Alex Mika, 917-597-4181, alexmikajewelry.com; 14k gold–plated brass bracelet with amethyst and blue topaz, $600, 14k gold– plated brass pin with blue quartz and amethyst, $192, Bounkit, 212-244-1877, bounkit.com; Feminine Waves 18k gold–plated brass ring with pearls, $220, Joanna Laura Constantine, 212219-3793, joannalaura constantine.com; 18k gold ring with 31.35 cts. t.w. ruby, $7,200, Sanjay Kasliwal, 212-988-1511
brass, $150 each, Nest Jewelry, 972-569-8959, nestjewelry.com; Lido Strand necklace with baroque pearls and 14k yellow gold clasp, $595, Ariel Gordon Jewelry, 213-488-2618, arielgordonjewelry.com; wood and multi-pearl cuffs, $450–$495, Matthew Campbell Laurenza, info@matthew campbelllaurenza.com, mcldesign.net; 14k yellow gold Perched Setting ring with 16 mm pearl, $2,860, Leslie Paige, 949-6836459, lesliepaigejewelry. com; Balance Twin 18k white gold ring with 1.17 cts. t.w. yellow sapphires and 5.55 ct. white pearl, $3,750, Ananya, info@ ananya.com, ananya.com
(L.) KNIT DRESS: STELLA McCARTNEY; HAT: ERIC JAVITS; (R.) KNIT DRESS: BOTTEGA VENETA
Pearl and glass crystal Sophia earrings, $60, Deepa by Deepa Gurnani, 212-221-1007, deepagurnani.com; Madonna 18k yellow and white gold necklace with 0.81 ct. t.w. diamonds and 8 mm Japanese akoya pearls, $11,790, Rosa Van Parys, 818-9284430, rosavanparys. com; freshwater baroque pearl spring ring necklace and bracelet in 22k yellow gold–plated
Eden 14k white gold double-row choker with 4.65 cts. t.w. diamonds, $10,700, Shy Creation, info@shycreation.com, shycreation.com; Build necklace in platinumplated sterling silver with 18.1 cts. t.w. CZ, $495, Crislu, 310-322-3444, b2b.crislu.com; Rockslide Drama Kite sterling silver earrings with 57.3 cts. t.w. CZ, $525, Nadri, 201-5850088, nadri.com
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it’s a fall world EVEN IF YOU’VE BEEN WEARING LEGGINGS FOR THE PAST THREE MONTHS, I T C O U L D N ’ T H U RT TO V I RT U A L LY T RY O N A F E W FA B U L O U S N E W FA S H I O N T R E N D S
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LOT OF PREDICTING goes on during the fashion shows. It’s part of what we do. Watch a handful of capes come down the runways in New York City, and you think to yourself, It’s going to be a trend! And, indeed, by the end, they were everywhere. Trenches, too. And glorious pouf sleeves. Cozy blanket and sweater dressing. Listen to one designer talk about inflated shapes, and then another, and you forecast big volume for fall. (Trust us, there will be.) But none of us could have predicted this. That mere weeks after the fall 2020 collections, we’d be locked in our homes. That a virus, the robotic-sounding COVID-19, would penetrate every corner of the globe. That we’d be living in our own Cloverfield. Not that end-of-the-world scenarios weren’t top of mind for some designers—but it was climate change that ruled their collective consciousness. Upcycling and sustainability were the buzzwords du jour—from Marine Serre, Preen, and Collina Strada, all of whom repurposed dead-stock fabrics, to Stella McCartney, who held a carbon-neutral outing. And who could f orget Balenciaga’s portent of a show? It featured an empty auditorium filled with water three rows deep, thunderclaps, and dark, foreboding clothes…. Après nous, le déluge. But we’re not here to lean into the dystopia. Jewelry is more than baubles and frivolity. It can be an uplift, a smile, a keepsake, an emotion, and a reminder of brighter days ahead. Here, the trends that will conjure just that.
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round of applause to the pearl lobby because those opalescent beauties continue to trend—again. This season, they were in perfect lockstep with the ladylike motifs—the aforementioned pouf sleeves as well as a whole reverie of feminine elements, such as bows and ruffles. At Moschino’s Marie Antoinette celebration, there were pretty pearls galore—elegant drops, wraparound strands, even peace-sign hoops—to go with the panniers, toile de Jouy, and cake-shaped frocks. Richard Quinn also went the royal route (sort of), opening with a trio that nodded to London’s working-class Pearly Kings and Queens. We saw arty pearls aplenty—quirky at Adeam (pictured), gravity-defying at Yuhan Wang, Tasaki Atelier at Prabal Gurung. Others were all-out lavish, such as the long rope styles at Emilio Pucci and the even longer versions that wrapped across the body at Giambattista Valli. On the humbler— yet no less lovely—side were Sies Marjan’s baroque drops by Marlo Laz and Roland Mouret’s DIY brooches made from wood stuck with pearl pins. Marc Jacobs offered a more playful take: Kaia Gerber stomped down the runway wearing a pair of glittering cat studs...clutching a big pearl “ball.”
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SLAVEN VLASIC/GETTY IMAGES FOR NYFW: THE SHOWS
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—1— Sorrento Flex Tête-à-Tête cuff bracelet with cultured white freshwater pearls in 18k yellow gold and titanium; $1,165; Mastoloni; 800-347-3275; mastoloni.com
—2— Diamond pearl hoop earrings in 14k yellow gold; $850; Eden Presley; sales@edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com
—3— Feminine Waves ear cuff with removable cultured pearl drop; $220; Joanna Laura Constantine; lauren@megamegaprojects; joannalauraconstantine.com
—4— Stratus ring in 14k gold– plated bronze with freshwater pearl; $168; Lady Grey; lauren@megamegaprojects; ladygreyjewelry.com
—5— Pearl Abacus barrette with acrylic pearls in 14k gold–plated brass; $98; Lele Sadoughi; sales@lelesadoughi.com; lelesadoughi.com
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—1— Farah 14k gold–plated earrings with acrylic and CZ; $265; Yun Yun Sun; lauren@megamegaprojects; yun-yun-sun.com
big link energy
—2— Vinctum bracelet in sterling silver; €345 ($377); Pianegonda; usa@ pianegonda.com; pianegonda.com
5 —3— Pot of Gold necklace in Seaside with gold-plated brass, aventurine, reconstituted amber, turquoise, and pearl; $425; Lizzie Fortunato; 212-777-1008; lizziefortunato.com
—4— 14k yellow gold chubby medium lock on 16-inch handmade 14k yellow gold biker chain; $5,850; Marla Aaron; info@marlaaaron. com; marlaaaron.com
—5— Power Drop earrings in gold-plated brass; $225; Lulu Frost; 212-9650075; lulufrost.com
(L) VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO MODEL/GETTY
all 2020 saw the return of punk. And where punk goes, so does chain-link jewelry. At Monse, designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia paired reconstructed tailoring with demonstrative chains (some twotone); Christian Siriano took the subversive toward goth terrain in a show sponsored by the film Birds of Prey, with piles of chain-link necklaces and bondage chokers; and Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello went full throttle on the sexy latex conceit, accessorized by hefty chain collars of all types. But what we especially loved were the fresh takes on this tried-and-true bijoux classic. Like at Ulla Johnson (pictured), where the chains came lariat-style and set against artisanal beaded pieces made in Kenya. And Brandon Maxwell, which channeled retro glamour in long tortoiseshell links that fell from the lobes to the shoulders. And Agnona, which stacked collar necklaces—one gold chain, one pearl—to chic effect. And then there was Dion Lee, who, in addition to the parade of angled chains, broke them apart for single “link” hoops and pendants.
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fringe fest
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—2— Pagoda Tassel earrings with cabochon sapphires, coral and sapphire beads, diamonds, and white enamel in 18k gold and platinum; $115,000; David Webb; 212-421-3030; davidwebb.com
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uiting has always telegraphed a power look for women. Think back to the power-padded ’80s, for instance—we’re borrowing from the boys and wearing the proverbial (and literal) pants. Which made fall’s Prada show such an intriguing proposition. Miuccia Prada’s rallying cry: There’s strength in the feminine. So she paired tailored jackets with the most frivolous of constructions: swishy fringe skirts. The result was marvelously confident. The stringy stuff was all over the runways, variously styled in flapper, hippie, and deconstructed modes. The message was movement, and it made for a pretty fantastic jewelry trend. Whose heart wouldn’t skip a beat in Claudia Li’s floral fringed earrings or Simone Rocha’s coral chandeliers with bits of sea glass dangling like wind chimes? Andrew Gn had opulent tassels; Paco Rabanne (pictured), too, with a dose of Joan of Arc mettle. And while designers such as Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller took the theme to artistic heights in Calderesque earrings, Celine’s Hedi Slimane winked wittily at the trend. Case in point: his oversize eye pendant with long gold “lashes.”
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—1— Gold-plated red blue glass Lotus Ball drop chain tassel pendant; $123; Tribe Amrapali; marketing@amrapalijewels.com; tribeamrapali.com
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—3— Freshwater pearl sterling silver and oxidized chain fringe bracelet; $575; Samira 13; 310-652-1313; samira13.com
—4— Sardinian coral and 18k yellow gold earrings; $14,800; Assael; 212-819-0060; assael.com
—5— Love NY Fringe choker in 18k yellow gold; $7,500; Jack Vartanian; infous@jackvartanian.com; jackvartanian.com
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1 eathers, that bohemian staple, got a supersize update. Think Old Hollywood glamour, all high drama and razzle-dazzle. You can trace the trend back to Dries Van Noten’s spring 2020 show, done in collaboration with the ever-exuberant Christian Lacroix, which saw bountiful plumes—sashed across the body, tucked into a peplum, or sprouting from the shoulder. It was divine, pure brilliant escapism. Plus, the look can zhuzh even the simplest of outfits. Take Tom Ford’s recent outing, which opened with a slashed sweatshirt and houndstooth skirt—simple enough. But the model turned heads with her feathery door-knocker earrings, dipped in gold. Ditto at Bibhu Mohapatra (pictured), where girls wore gargantuan plumed hoops designed by Narayan Jewellers with Forevermark diamonds for bold color contrast: green earrings with a neutral dress, red against a gray suit, and so on. Prefer restraint? Then try Victoria Beckham’s delicate silver winged earrings.
—1— Handmade cuff in in 14k yellow gold with 0.37 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,640; Marika Desert Gold; 216759-7569; marikadesertgold.com
feather report
—2— Yellow Feather Ethnic gold accent earrings; $395; Devon Leigh; info@devonleighdesign.com; devonleighdesign.com
5 —3— 18k gold cuff with sapphires, rubies, tsavorite, brown diamonds, and aquamarine; price on request; Lydia Courteille; lauren@megamegaprojects; lydiacourteille.com
—4— Handmade Pétale necklace in brass with goose, hen, peacock, and pheasant feathers; €300 ($328); AnaGold; anagold@live.fr; anagold.fr
—5— Cuff bracelet with feathers, leather, freshwater peacock pearls, and pyrite in 10k gunmetal tone– plated brass; $795; Alexis Bittar; 718-687-4144; alexisbittar.com
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harm lovers, we’ve got good news. Whether you adore those styles for the sentimental value, warm to the nostalgia factor, or simply like the jingling—guilty as charged— designers sent out a whole spate of options for fall. For some, it was in concert with the overarching fringe motif, à la Valentino’s shoulder-dusters, which were capped by tiny pearls and gems, or Zimmermann’s bewitching boho extravaganza with trailing tassels dotted by cameos and various lucky charms (horseshoes, beetles, and evil eyes). For others, it tied back to a punk agenda—like Antonio Marras’ sliced and spliced garments with a hodgepodge of DIY charms—or a free-spirited ’70s vibe, best seen at Christian Dior (pictured) with its luxe hippies and motley crew of tiny fish, coral, and heart pendants. Marine Serre took the found-object route as well—clusters of keys, pearls, washers, crystals, and the occasional lobster clasp—in a collection inspired by the sci-fi wasteland of the fictional Dune, complete with face masks. Then again, she had those masks on her runway last season, too. Serre... fashion’s Cassandra?
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5 —1— 14k gold 19-inch heavy book link chain, $3,295; 14k mixed gemstone and diamond Victorian-inspired charms, $950–$5,995 each; Storrow Jewelry; storrowjewelry@gmail. com; storrowjewelry.com
—2— Charm necklace with 14k Baby heart, 14k bunny, 18k 8-ball, 18k rope trim pavé heart, 18k evil eye with white and blue diamonds, 18k pavé teddy bear, and 18k ruby Mom tattoo; price on request; Established; 646-7456831; establishedjewelry.com
—3— 14k yellow gold Mini X Cluster necklace; $1,692 as shown (charms and chain sold separately); Alex Woo; 877-WOO-ICON; alexwoo.com
—4— Thick Chain Foundation necklace, $4,220; Major Crescent Inlay charm, $7,450; Harwell Godfrey; 646-745-6831; harwellgodfrey.com
—5— Alta Capture Charm earrings, $175 for pair, Nura baroque pearl charm, $95 each, both in 18k gold vermeil; Monica Vinader; businessenquiries@monicavinader. com; monicavinader.com
Cove pendant with 6.29 cts. t.w. multicolored gemstones and 0.37 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k rose gold, $3,700, bellarri. com; (inset) Lonnie Iannazzo
18k yellow gold earrings with 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds and 6.5 mm–8.5 mm white freshwater pearls, $1,530, mastoloni.com; (inset) Melvin Reisz
DECISION 2020
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OLITICS, POLITICIANS, AND the world itself look much different today than they did four years ago— or four months ago, for that matter. The COVID-19 pandemic has changed the world as we know it. And yet independent retailers tell JCK that the most pressing challenges our industry faces remain remarkably familiar. Here are five key issues jewelers say will be affected by the outcome of the November presidential election.
THE ECONOMY While the U.S. economy took a nosedive in March with the spread of the coronavirus—prompting mass layoffs, shuttering stores, and undermining equities markets—Lonnie Iannazzo, owner of Vincent Anthony Jewelers in Tulsa, Okla., says he hopes the robust business environment that preceded the pandemic over the first three years of the current administration will regain its footing once businesses reopen. “Not to say that when the market goes down as far as it has it doesn’t make people think,” Iannazzo says. “If this were to last the rest of the year, [Trump] could really have a problem getting reelected. But before this, things had been going well for the country.”
Like other small-business owners, independent jewelers face a potential cash crunch trying to keep staff and bills paid as funds dry up. “We had such a good fall and spring that I was paying off most of our vendors,” Iannazzo says. “But right now I wish I had that cash available. I’ll probably have to go to my personal funds to service loans and such.” At press time, Iannazzo was working with employees to help them maximize their benefits from the federal stimulus package. Expanded unemployment benefits—which include increasing individual payments by $600 a week—seem especially helpful, he says. The best plan for jewelers, Iannazzo suggests, is remaining flexible and compassionate toward customers and staff. “This is unprecedented,” he says. “I’m used to going up and hugging customers. Then we moved to elbow bumps. Now we can’t even get close.”
of Summerwind Jewelers in Portsmouth, N.H. “We need a president elected who is going to be able to work with both Republicans and Democrats to get us closer together on this. “The fact that we have a president who denies its reality is scary,” Reisz continues. “You have to trust the people who have the background, facts, figures, and experience.” Reisz suggests one potential silver lining to the pandemic may lie in using the unified global reaction to COVID-19 as a model for addressing climate change. “My hope would be that, once we get through this, it may be pretty easy to see that the global warming phenomenon is also a worldwide concern,” he says, “and that we could all work to solve that the same way, by following the science and working together.”
CLIMATE CHANGE
HEALTH CARE
In November, the Trump administration formally notified the United Nations that it would withdraw the United States from the Paris Agreement on climate change (which the president has called “a hoax”). “I am very concerned about the environment, especially global warming,” says Melvin Reisz, owner
As insurance costs continue to soar, America struggles to contain the deadly coronavirus, and the U.S. Supreme Court has accepted yet another challenge to the Affordable Care Act, it’s no surprise that health care—one of the major issues of the 2016 presidential election—has returned to the forefront.
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14k yellow gold ring with 0.5 ct. t.w. round diamonds, $1,715, luvente.com; (inset) Brian Millman
Small Aurora pendant with 0.77 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold on 18-inch chain, $4,800, heartsonfire. com; (inset) Jim Brusilovsky 18k gold and diamond ring with 9.1 ct. black opal, $20,600, alexsepkus. com; (inset) Charlie Davis
JEWELERS DISCUSS HOW THE PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION WILL AFFECT FIVE KEY ISSUES FACING THE INDUSTRY by Whitney Sielaff
“The costs have become so astronomically high,” says Brian Millman, president of Shellé Jewelers in Northbrook, Ill. “For a company like ours, we’re talking hundreds of thousands of dollars. We want to give our people the best we can. But at the same time, we don’t want to go broke doing it.” Millman says insurance companies are profiting at the expense of health care providers and consumers. He suggests the government increase competition among insurers by allowing businesses and individuals to shop for plans across state borders. “It would be wonderful if they broke down the walls for insurance, and you could shop state to state,” Millman says. “That would help out small businesses like ours.” Another possible improvement would be creating “menu plans,” where shoppers could choose options—such as coverage of pre-existing conditions— to manage total cost. “These are just some ideas,” Millman says. “Ultimately, I just want these costs to come down, because then everybody has more money to spend.”
SALES TAX PARITY In South Dakota v. Wayfair Inc., the Supreme Court ruled in 2018 that individual states can require online
retailers to collect sales tax whether or not they have a physical presence in that state. This overturned previous law, under which consumers were themselves responsible for paying tax on goods they bought from out-of-state online sellers. But according to Jim Brusilovsky, president and CEO of Marks Jewelers in Montgomeryville, Pa., the government must address the issue to establish full parity between online and brick-and-mortar sellers. For example, customers can still avoid paying tax on online jewelry purchases by having them shipped to states with no or lower sales tax. “The government needs to become more forceful in making sure everyone collects sales tax,” Brusilovsky says. “For us in Pennsylvania, that represents 6% of the final price. That’s enough for someone buying a big diamond to save $2,000 if they buy it online. “We’ve wrestled in our store with being innovative, new, funny, but we’re not Chanel,” he adds. “How much of a premium is someone willing to pay for us being local? We think it’s about 10%. Millennials have grown up with a device in their hand. Without fair and consistent collection of sales tax from all parties, the online jeweler takes over as the ‘local jeweler.’ ”
MADE IN AMERICA Given the global nature of the industry’s supply chain, independent jewelers have kept a close eye on the administration’s efforts to renegotiate deals with many of the country’s top international trading partners. According to Charlie Davis, co-owner of two-store Skaneateles Jewelry in Skaneateles, N.Y., government needs to strike an equitable balance between facilitating trade with important foreign sourcing centers and protecting the interests of domestic suppliers. With overseas suppliers, the benefits often mean lower pricing. “I’ve really been tracking these negotiations, because we do sell goods that come from abroad, and we want to be aware of the impact they have on our business,” he explains. “I can think of several instances in which they’ve definitely influenced what we pay.” Conversely, Davis says domestic suppliers often excel in areas such as quality control, consistency, and delivery time. “The tipping point comes when we can’t be certain about quality or the time frame, the challenges we would face when working with overseas manufacturers. When you need something rushed, it’s a great benefit to source what you need from just down the road in New York.”
HOW WILL
RETAIL BOUNCE EXPERTS BELIEVE THAT ANY RETURN TO NORMAL WILL LIKELY BE SLOW AND INCREMENTAL
? BACK by Rob Bates
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UST ABOUT EVERYONE agrees that when the COVID-19 lockdown ends, the world will look different. But no one is sure what that new America will look like in the wake of an unprecedented public health and economic crisis. For now, perhaps the best model is China, where COVID-19 was discovered, and where restrictions had mostly been lifted at press time in May. Early indications are that China is experiencing a surprisingly V-shaped economic recovery, with a sharp, quick upturn, especially in the luxury sector. After months of being cooped up, many consumers are engaging in what they call revenge shopping—a term originally used in China to describe the spending sprees that followed the liberalization of the economy. “There has been a pent-up demand, and [consumers] are ready to treat themselves,” Jeff Unze, president of strategic partnerships at BorderX Lab, told The Business of Fashion. “I don’t know whether I would call it ‘revenge buying,’ but I would definitely call it ‘treat myself to something nice’ buying.” Kent Wong, managing director of Chow Tai Fook, China’s largest jeweler, says that mall traffic has not yet returned to pre-virus levels, and sales are still down. Yet he’s heartened that consumer interest in jewelry remains strong, even if shoppers currently favor lower-priced items. “We assumed that it would take two to three months to recover,” he says. “I think in three or four months, we will be back to normal. The present data is better than we expected.” Thomai Serdari, a professor of luxury marketing and b randing at New York University’s Stern School of Business, also believes we’ll see a burst of pent-up demand. “The social distancing and
deprivation are really intense,” he told Retail Dive. “We will all be craving a bit of entertainment, which is what shopping has always been.” Diamond industry analyst Edahn Golan claims when you examine historical trends, the gem business tends to bounce back quickly following calamities. After 9/11, he notes, U.S. diamond demand grew by double digits. “Following hard times that include a real threat to life, we tend to wake up from our hesitance, remember that life is short, and rush to bond,” Golan wrote in a recent blog post. “We will stop stalling and propose because we just came back from the brink and don’t want to lose any more time. We will have that baby because we will have a deeper desire to perpetuate our lives. And we will get that piece of jewelry that symbolizes that momentous point of our lives.” While it’s certainly possible that this crisis will bring people together, it has driven others apart. Post-lockdown, China saw a spurt of divorces. At least one New York City divorce lawyer told the media he’s already seen a 50% jump in inquiries. That could work out to the industry’s benefit, as more divorces mean more remarriages and more trade-ins—though it’s not likely something the industry wants to benefit from. The lockdown has also made consumers more reliant than ever on technology, from shopping apps to tools like videoconferencing. “Some digital shopping habits built during the outbreak will stick—especially if brands raise their game in online assortment, user experience, and digital marketing,” said a recent report from Bain & Co. In China, Wong says, videoconferencing has become the “new normal,” and even once-stubborn holdouts are embracing shopping apps. “The older people used to like to go to the market,” he says. “But now that they started using the apps when they couldn’t go out, use of mobile has become common, even with them. They see the convenience.” Consumers will still go out and shop, of course, though there could be more caution than before. Here, as in certain parts of Asia, mask-wearing and even fever-screening might become compulsory before entering public areas. Consumers will pay more attention to whether stores are clean and sanitary. And businesses will face more pressure to offer paid sick leave and better health care to their personnel, particularly warehouse workers, kitchen staff, and delivery people—the low-level employees who have, almost overnight, become essential parts of our economy and in some cases literal lifesavers. “We will be better able to see how our fates are linked,” NYU sociology professor Eric Klinenberg told Politico. “The cheap burger I eat from a restaurant that denies paid sick leave to its cashiers and kitchen staff makes me more vulnerable to illness. “The coronavirus pandemic is going to cause immense pain and suffering,” Klinenberg added. “But it will force us to reconsider who we are and what we value, and, in the long run, it could help us rediscover the better version of ourselves.”
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All the proceeds from Gabriel & Co.’s 91>19 bangle benefit Jewelers for Children ($91; gabrielny.com).
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One of the Honora bracelets gifted to Southern Florida health care workers by J.R. Dunn Jewelers
French fine jewelry brand Messika announced in March that it would donate 20% of sales made at the Messika Los Angeles boutique through the end of April to After-School All-Stars—a nonprofit that works to provide nutrition and physical and emotional well-being for students in major cities. Meanwhile, Samantha Jackson, founder of jewelry brand Heavenly Vices, was among the handful of industry professionals who auctioned jewelry pieces on Instagram to benefit nonprofit Meals on Wheels, which delivers meals to people in need. Says Jackson, “Putting a smile on people’s faces is so much more valuable to me than sales right now.”
N MARCH, THE COVID-19 pandemic, cases of which were first detected in the United States in late January, brought with it mandatory quarantines and business closures around the country. Jewelry stores, manufacturing facilities, showrooms, and business offices were all temporarily shuttered in an effort to promote social distancing. At press time in May, several U.S. cities are slowly reopening after business closures and stay-at-home orders that began in mid-March. But coronavirus infections are still on the rise in many regions, keeping nervous consumers out of malls and off Main Streets. Retailers, manufacturers, and independent designers are grappling with painful realities, including layoffs. And everyone’s concerned about the looming prospect of a g lobal recession. Yet the jewelry industry—which tends to attract resilient, passionate, and often entrepreneurial-minded individuals—is soldiering on. In this shaky new era, many in the trade have stepped up to help their clients, their contemporaries, vulnerable populations, and frontline health care workers, both emotionally and financially.
“The doctors and nurses are putting their patients’ needs first, and it really hit home the sacrifices they’re making for all of us.”
FEEDING THE NEEDY When COVID-19 began its insidious creep across the country, jewelry brands of all stripes began donating a portion of their sales to nonprofit groups that answered immediate needs. With schools shut down, kids who typically receive free lunches were left in the lurch—a reality that horrified public relations professionals Danielle Gadi of Danielle Gadi PR and Jen Lowitz of IHPR. The two women began an industrywide movement to donate to No Kid Hungry, a nonprofit that brings food to children who need it. “We both live in cities where kids are going to be seriously affected by school closures in terms of their food sources, and as a parent and neighbor it wasn’t an option to not try to mobilize the community,” Gadi says. At press time, more than 125 fine jewelry brands— including Andrea Fohrman, AUrate, Jacquie Aiche, Retrouvaí, Harwell Godfrey, and Alison Lou—are donating a percentage of sales to the organization. Jewelry designer Brent Neale, who donated 30% of her total sales for a two-week period in March to No Kid Hungry, told her Instagram followers that she sent an astonishing $52,457 to the nonprofit.
(Above and r.) Manos and Kelle Phoundoulakis and their at-home mask-sewing business
JEWELRY TO HONOR THE FIGHT
Jewelry companies also orking rallied behind those w on the front lines of the COVID-19 crisis. Retailer J. R. Dun n Je we l e r s in —Sean Dunn, J.R. Dunn Jewelers Lighthouse Point, Fla., to name one, created a social media giveaway on March 27 asking users on Facebook and Instagram to tag nurses and doctors working with coronavirus patients. The retailer then gifted every tagged individual an Honora freshwater cultured pearl Hope bracelet. Within three days, all 200 of the bracelets were claimed and shipped to South Florida health care workers. “The doctors and nurses are putting their patients’ needs first, and it really hit home the sacrifices they’re making for all of us,” says company vice president Sean Dunn. “Even though we didn’t have masks to give, we wanted to do something to lift spirits and let them know they are appreciated.” Fine jewelry brand Gabriel & Co. made a special s terling silver bracelet engraved with the equation 91>19—a
Coil diamond ring with ruby heart in 18k yellow gold; $4,750; Brent Neale; 646-7456831; brentneale.com
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reference to Psalm 91 (“No harm shall overcome you”) and COVID-19—and is giving 100% of proceeds from its sale to Jewelers for Children, which channels the funds to children’s nonprofits.
PITCHING IN FOR PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT As more than half of Americans went into quarantine in mid-March, a few jewelry professionals got busy making masks and face shields to help with the nationwide shortage of personal protective equipment for health care professionals. Manos Phoundoulakis, business development manager of jewelry brand Omi Privé, and his wife, Kelle Phoundoulakis, posted a GoFundMe page to raise $750 for the fabric and shipping of hundreds of masks the couple were making at their dining room table in Denver. At press time, they’d raised $9,820 and they have been able to outsource some of the sewing to friends. “We were, like a lot of people, sitting at home and feeling like we’re not doing enough,” says Manos, who bought an old Kenmore sewing machine on Facebook and taught himself to sew, while Kelle cuts the fabric from a pattern. “I thought, I’m capable of learning to do this, I can learn to sew. If we can provide free masks to health care people and people in need, I feel really good about what we’re
(Above and top) The Pac Team Chicago factory pivots to face shield production.
Pac Team’s COVID-19 testing booth
doing. Altruism is the key to happiness.” On March 20, the day Illinois received its official stay-at-home order, the Chicago factory for Swiss-based Pac Team Group pivoted from producing and manufacturing luxury jewelry showcases, packaging, and fixtures for top jewelry and watch brands to churning out protective face shields for the medical community. Pac Team Group president and co-owner Eric Zuckerman says that at first he thought he would need to furlough his team during the pandemic. Instead, he began thinking about how the company’s existing machinery could help support the medical community. “When I saw that face shields were desperately needed, I saw a path and knew we could do that well,” he says. Within less than a week, the factory had created a successful prototype, procured bulk materials for masks, applied for the proper certifications, and was talking to city and state government officials about distributing the shields. At press time, the company was producing 5,000 shields per week and was gearing up to build a COVID-19 testing booth, which would allow health care workers to have maximum protection while testing people without the need to change their personal protective equipment. “This was a system that was utilized in Korea successfully, and we have been engineering ours to be more modular and easily transportable across the USA,” Zuckerman says. “Everybody on the shop floor can keep working full-time, and our country will have another reliable domestic source producing personal protective equipment,” he says. “It’s a win-win.”
We are stronger
J C K E V E N T S A R E H E R E F O R YO U A N D W I L L C O N T I N U E TO FAC I L I TAT E T H E P E R S O N A L C O N N E C T I O N S T H A T O U R I N D U S T R Y I S B U I LT O N S O T H A T W E C A N A L L E V O LV E A N D E M E R G E S T R O N G E R T O G E T H E R .
Here’s how we are bringing the industry together in 2020 OCTOBER JCK VIRTUAL 2020
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PRODUCT
SHOWCASE
48
RDI Diamonds 2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 844-742-6591 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com
Jye’s International Inc. 1633 Bayshore Highway, Suite 136 Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com
Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again. You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100% Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.
Jye’s emerald necklace in white gold is made of 8.15 cts. t.w. GVS1 round diamonds as well as 3.52 cts. t.w. GVS1 marquise diamonds. Emerald weight is 8.71 cts. MSRP: $200,000
Phillip Gavriel
Stuller Inc.
2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: info@phillipgavriel.com Website: royalchain.com
302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com
Phillip Gavriel, backed by Royal Chain, creates attainable fine jewelry with a designer look. Discover our new best-selling quadra birthstone series, set in sterling silver and accented with 18k gold, featuring entirely natural gemstones.
To be honored with awards recognizing excellence in jewelry design is a reflection of our 50-year commitment to providing our customers beautiful, high-quality jewelry when they need it. Shop our awardwinning designs at stuller.com/awardwinning.
Artistry Ltd. Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.
JUNE 2020
8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: info@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com Our 14k white gold pendant from the Peacock collection features 0.95 ct. t.w. blue sapphires, 0.07 ct. t.w. green garnets, and 0.18 ct. t.w. diamonds. Pendant hinges open and can be worn three ways. Matching earrings and ring also available. MSRP: $2,415
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PRODUCT
SHOWCASE
49
Arch Crown Inc. Cirari by Color Jewels 36 W. 44th St., Suite 900 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 609-876-9454 Fax: 212-354-8488 Email: fmarkfunk@colorjewels.net Website: cirari.com Sleek emerald and diamond lariat in 18k gold features a 0.62 ct. emerald and 20 diamonds (0.2 ct. t.w.) (Style N1800178) Wholesale price: $730
480 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Bar Code Technology Solutions for Jewelry Pricing! Print professional tags with or without bar codes. Arch Crown’s thermal transfer packages feature E-Class Advanced printer, Voyager MS9540 scanner, plus everything you need to print and scan tags using DataTagger, BarTender® for Windows®, or your software.
Midas Chain 151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com Put a timeless twist on the trendy paper clip chain with these earrings. Midas Chain’s 14k yellow gold drop earrings have three paper clip links, with an oversized bottom link housing a diamond bezel. MSRP: $930
RDI Diamonds 2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 844-742-6591 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Rare and Forever Diamonds set the standard for diamonds of the highest quality and consistency. Each diamond is graded by De Beers Group Industry Services and benefits from De Beers’ unrivaled knowledge and advanced grading technology. Text JCK3 to 877-620-1333 to learn more.
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Hoover & Strong 10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@www.hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com We’ve added larger sizes to our P61 series! You can now order the P61, a 6-prong round low peg setting, in 3 ct. (9.50 mm) and 4 ct. (10.25 mm) sizes. Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Metals.
Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com R & P has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.
JUNE 2020
CLASSIFIEDS
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CAREER OPPORTUNITIES
FOR SALE
JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES
Well established (30+ years) jewellery store for sale. Owner retiring.
The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.
SERVICES TO TRADE
JEWELLERY STORE FOR SALE
High end, well established, and turn-key operation in Hamilton, Ontario. Vibrant, busy street, strip plaza location with parking, and lots of exterior signage. Available with or without inventory. For more information please contact: hamiltonjewellerystore@gmail.com
SCHOOLS & EDUCATION
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• Wax Modeling • Casting Mold Making • Bead Pearl Stringing • Diamond Setting • Rendering/Design • Jewelry Repair Long and Short Term Courses EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. 32 East 31 Street (Park & Madison) New York, NY 10016 Call (212) 686-1944 www.studiojewelersltd.com
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617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014
TRADE SUPPLIES WATCHES & WATCH WORK ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices. Star Findings PO Box 6167, West Orange, NJ 07052 212-941-7655 ernie@starfindings.com www.starfindings.com
CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING 3D computer design 3D wax printing ● Precious metal casting ●
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JCK CLASSIFIEDS ARE ONLINE Call your JCK Sales Representative or visit JCKonline.com/classifieds
JUNE 2020
Stone setting and finishing Diamond supply ● Laser engraving & repair ●
●
Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com
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ADVERTISING
INDEX Alex Velvet pg. 22 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900
JIS Show pg. 24, 25, 47 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612
Alrosa USA pg. 19 Website: alrosa.ru Email: FoersterR@usa.alrosa.ru Phone: 212-921-4300
Jye’s International pg. 11 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880
Color Jewels / Cirari pg. 4-5 Website: cirari.com Email: info@cirari.com Phone: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488
Midas pg. 9 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765
GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 Hoover & Strong pg. 15 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997 JCK Events pg. 6-7, 47 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626
Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 20 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Paul H. Gesswein & Co., Inc. pg. 23 Website: Gesswein.com Email: info@gesswein.com Phone: 203-366-5400 Toll-Free: 800-544-2043 Fax: 203-366-3953 Toll-Free Fax: 888-454-4377 Rand & Paseka pg. 51 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006
RDI Diamonds pg. Back Cover Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768
Proudly Made in the U.S.A. Proudly Made Proudly Made Since 1951 in the U.S.A. inSince the U.S.A. 1951 Since 1951
Rembrandt Charms pg. 23 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@ rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811 Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Stuller Inc. pg. 17 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Tim Roark Inc. pg. 14 Website: timroarkinc.com Email: info@trimportsatl.com Phone: 404-872-8937 Toll-free: 800-568-2011 Fax: 404-872-9346 Umicore pg. 16 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060
Copyright ©2020 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 151 No. 2 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 4 times a year in March, May, June, and September for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.
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Rand & Paseka Rand & Paseka
World’s Largest & Finest Collection World’sOf Largest & Finest Collection Religious Jewelry World’sOf Largest & Finest Collection Religious Jewelry Of Religious Jewelry JCK Las Vegas Booth #50006 JCK Las Vegas Booth #50006 JCK Las516-867-1500 Vegas Booth #50006 516-867-1500 800-229-0006 516-867-1500 800-229-0006 sales@randpaseka.com 800-229-0006 sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com
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THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N
A CALL TO ARMS THIS PHOTO OF gamine model-of-the moment Twiggy appeared in the November 1967 issue of Vogue, in a feature called “What Makes Fashion Tick: Accessories to Watch.” The budding British cultural icon wore a wool chenille jumpsuit by Pattie Tuttman for Silverworm, accessorized with a cylindrical Louis Vuitton roll bag. Her jewels—a chunky Oster for Paraphernalia chain bracelet looped around a Vacheron Constantin watch on a metal bracelet—are oversize and high-gloss, both hallmarks of mid-1960s jewelry design. As the decade wore on, the jewelry aesthetic became more rustic-feeling and nature-
inspired, a reflection of the hippie counterculture (explained in the article “Love, Mysticism, and the Hippies” in the same issue). The Twiggy spread, which also included a pic of the model with her trim torso wrapped in grass-green chains dripping with watch pendants, likely went to press during 1967’s storied Summer of Love, when 100,000 hippies gathered in San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury district and kick-started a legendary youth revolution. Vogue’s editors seemed to be touting a similar zest for life when they wrote, “There’s never been a time like this for accessories. Play it for all it’s worth.” —EMILI VESILIND
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BERT STERN/CONDÉ NAST VIA GETTY
In 1967, Vogue captured teen model Twiggy in the ultimate wrist shot
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Learn more at GIA.edu/gem-education/distance eLearning courses are self-paced with generous maximum completion time requirements. ©2020 GIA. GIA®, the GIA logo and Gemological Institute of America® are registered trademarks of Gemological Institute of America, Inc.