JCK 2023 Summer Issue

DAYTIME DRAMA

GET READY FOR 6 DAZZLING DAYS OF LUXURY & JCK

Take a peek into whats new... '

,

and De Beers Institute of Diamonds™ are Trade Marks of De Beers Group.

INDEPENDENT, INNOVATIVE, INTERNATIONAL GRADING

Using breakthrough proprietary technology to grade exclusively natural and untreated diamonds.

COMPREHENSIVE DIAMOND EDUCATION

Offering in-depth diamond training from introductory to expert level courses.

Discover more about the De Beers Institute of Diamond’s education and grading services at Institute.DeBeers.com

Careful inspection

Select jewelry $500 and above is examined by GIA®. Look for the blue Authenticity Guarantee checkmark.

Verified returns

Every item is inspected before it’s sent back to you to avoid fraud and theft when it is returned.

No cost to you

eBay covers all costs of authentication, whether it is for an inital sale or a returned item.

Build buyer trust and strengthen your brand with eBay Live. Check out demos of our live shopping event at our eBay booth.

COVER

SPARKLE IT UP

Effortlessly elegant diamond jewels that go from day to night in the blink of an eye.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEI TAO

SPECIAL REPORT: COLORED STONES

115

What’s selling, what’s scarce, and what to watch—all the dish from the Tucson shows. Plus: gorgeous gemstone jewelry in stunning shades of sunset ombré, musthave magenta, and more.

FEATURES

138

SILVER AGE

Make a statement with sculptural, mixed-metal, diamond-dusted, and engraved designs.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN LEWIS

144

FASHION FILES

Wearable has long been muttered in fashion circles like a backhanded compliment. A funny thing happened on the way to our post-pandemic norm: After the initial escapist rebound, wearable has suddenly become cool.

BY VENESSA LAU

150

HERE’S TO LAS VEGAS

Your shopping list is set. Your days are full of meetings with vendors. Now, how do you plan to relax and celebrate a successful market week?

BY MATT VILLANO

FEATURES

154

CREATED CLASS

Lab-grown diamonds…but make it fashion! These chunky cocktail rings, bangin’ bangles, and statement earrings will zhuzh up any jewelry box.

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

160

A SHARPER IMAGE

Yes, even luxury jewelers need an occasional face-lift! Three retailers share their tips for refreshing, renovating, and rebranding.

BY AMY ELLIOTT

168

23 (NEW THINGS) & YOU

When you’re plotting your 2023 JCK show agenda, keep all these experiences, keynotes, and topics in mind. Plus: 23 new jewels from your favorite (and soon-tobe-favorite) exhibitors.

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

176

2023 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS: THE WINNERS

This year’s top vote-getters? Green and blue colored stones, edgy yellow gold, and big labgrown diamond designs. And congratulations to grand-prize winner Tariq Riaz, for his Qasr Al Hosn rose gold and diamond ring.

2023

DAYTIM e DrAMA

Get ready for six dazzling days of Luxury and JCK.

Earrings with 2.82 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $24,323 ; Yael Designs; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com

Bangle with 1.96 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $6,785 ; Luvente

Earrings with 3.37 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $10,450 ; Christopher Designs; 800-9550970; christopher designs.com

Ring with 2.64 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $5,330 ; Christopher Designs

Ring with 1.15 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $10,300 ; Effy ; 877-275-3339; effyjewelry.com

Earrings with 2.39 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $16,500 ; Luvente; 212-730-1003; luvente.com

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEI TAO

Hair: YU NAKATA/87 ARTISTS

USING CHRISTOPHE ROBIN

Makeup: CHIHO OMAE/LGA MANAGEMENT

USING M·A·C COSMETICS

Stylist: DANIEL EDLEY

AT WALTER SCHUPFER MANAGEMENT

Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON FOR CHANEL LE VERNIS/ART DEPARTMENT

Model: FRED JUNEAU/ SUPREME MANAGEMENT

Dress: JASON WU

Bangle with 5.37 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $20,000 ; Dabakarov ; 212-7301888; dabakarov.com

Open bangle with 0.89 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $9,924; Yael Designs

Th D m d

SILver H AZ e

As we always say, go bold or go home!

Carnelian Chime sterling silver necklace with 28 cts. t.w. carnelian; $7,700 ; Heather Guidero Jewelry ; 718-964-3011;

TrUe CoL orS

Demantoid garnet, watermelon tourmaline, and six-figure stones sell strong. Plus: Magenta is having a moment.

Necklace with 37.97 cts. t.w. no-heat spinels in 18k yellow gold; $45,000 ; Rahaminov Diamonds; 213-6229866; rahaminov.com

Ring with 7.8 ct. bicolor tourmaline and 0.62 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold and black rhodium; $6,375 ; Kimberly Collins Colored Gems; 720-454-6221; kimberlycollinsgems.com

42.9 cts. t.w. tourmaline and 0.55 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $8,940 ; Lauren K ; info@laurenk. com; laurenk.com

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN LEWIS PETER TRAN/ART DEPARTMENT

RDI DIAMONDS State of the Diamond Industry for 2023

As we move into 2023, economic uncertainty and geopolitical tensions continue to shape the global diamond trade, creating a fluid situation for industry players. Opposing forces will shape the demand mix: World events bear watching, rising interest rates prompt belt-tightening, and technological innovations promise greater efficiency.

Larger and pear-shape stones gain popularity.

Consumer preference for colorless and near-colorless stones of high clarity remains strong, while the standard for carat size is increasing. Consumers are gravitating toward the 1.5 ct. range from the previous 1 ct. standard.

There is a shift in the mix of shapes desired. Ovals appear to be on the wane, while pear-shape stones are especially popular now. As always, the shapes celebrities wear tend to become favorites. However, fancies are becoming increasingly difficult to cut, with margins for manufacturers tightening. As a result, fewer fancies are being produced, and the quality of the cuts no longer holds the same standard as it once did.

Geopolitics remain a force to be reckoned with.

Political instability is an inescapable factor of doing business in a global economy. Ongoing regional conflicts like Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, national strife from North Korea, and civil unrest in Iran make financial markets volatile. Interest rates are expected to continue to rise, and layoffs are on the upswing, even in the in-demand tech sector.

Tighter credit conditions narrow supply.

The “easy money” era is over. Debt financing is more costly now as lenders tighten their underwriting standards. Companies can expect smaller loans and greater scrutiny from lenders. This will reduce inventory across the supply chain, as vendors will no longer be able to stockpile inventory with ease.

Intensifying technology and competition.

Sophisticated new technology holds enormous potential to improve efficiency and transparency in the diamond supply chain. New tools that expedite the processes of verifying and grading stones can augment the skills of human experts, for instance, which enables companies to do more with fewer employees.

The rapid increase in lab-grown diamond production is a disruptor for the industry, as prices drop, margins shrink, and growers go direct to consumers. Less-profitable companies at every stage of the lab-grown supply chain will be forced to consolidate or may get pushed out as competition intensifies.

The reality is that destabilizing factors and regimes exert pressure on commercial activity on a worldwide scale, and the industry must be able to pivot when circumstances demand it.

As a leading global diamond supplier, RDI Diamonds is uniquely positioned to see and respond to market shifts. Our customers reap the benefits of our deep industry expertise. When you buy diamonds from RDI Diamonds, you can rest assured that our inventory and pricing reflect our cutting-edge knowledge.

Find out how we can help you grow your business with our unparalleled service and selection by visiting rdidiamonds.com

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SHOWS

Market week in Vegas is just around the corner. If you’re looking for some shopping inspo, here are just a few tips based on our spring travels, showroom visits, and chats with retailers: big pendants, bigger cuffs, and even bigger earrings; magenta gems and under-the-radar stones such as tsavorite and peridot (see our special section on page 115 for heaps of colored stone scoop); and—as you might have guessed from our second cover—all things silver. We’ll see you on the show floor!

Necklace with aquaprase and 0.375 ct. t.w. Chocolate and 2.33 cts. t.w. Vanilla Diamonds in 18k Strawberry Gold; $35,047; Le Vian Couture; 516-4667200; levian.com

DIAMONDS

When Russia invaded Ukraine in 2022, the U.S. quickly placed sanctions on Russian diamonds. There was, however, a loophole: If the diamonds were “substantially transformed” (i.e., cut and polished) elsewhere—as just about all of them are—they could still enter the United States legally. Now, the U.S. and other Group of Seven nations are saying that they want to strengthen the existing ban, and possibly require all diamond importers to sign a declaration attesting they aren’t importing Russian goods. “What we want,” explains Ambassador James O’Brien, head of the U.S. Office of Sanctions Coordination, “is to have no Russian diamonds coming into our market.”

Rough diamonds from Alrosa’s Mir mine in Mirny, Russia. The mine closed in 2017 but is expected to reopen.

Breitling calls the Super Chronomat Automatic 38 Origins, made with artisanal gold and lab-grown diamonds, its first-ever “traceable watch.”

COLLABS

In March, sneakerheads and fashionistas alike ran out for the debut Nike x Tiffany & Co. collaboration: a $400 pair of black suede Air Force 1 1837 kicks (the year is a nod to Tiffany’s founding). Featuring a Tiffany Blue Swoosh, sterling silver heel tabs, and Tiffany script on the tongue tags, the shoes are in step with a broader push by Tiffany’s parent, LVMH, to tap into a younger client base. Of the unexpected partnership, 30-year-old Alexandre Arnault, Tiffany’s executive VP of product and communications (and son of LVMH founder-CEO Bernard Arnault), told Fast Company: “You need to be a part of the cultural conversation.”

POLICIES 4

Can lab-grown diamonds be called eco-friendly ? Do marketers need to back up sustainability claims? Can precious metals be described as recycled ? For years, the industry has debated these issues. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) currently answers: No; yes; it’s not clear. But with the number of green claims exploding— and not just in the jewelry industry—the FTC has begun overhauling its Green Guides, which establish sustainability marketing rules. The process will involve a series of hearings and submissions—and will likely give the industry plenty to discuss and debate. And just when that’s over, it might be time to start talking again: The FTC also has announced plans to overhaul its jewelry guides, beginning in 2028.

CELEBRITIES

5

Consider this our official petition to declare 2023 the year of the brooch. Everything Everywhere All At Once breakout star Ke Huy Quan wore one at every awards show this season, where he was showered with accolades. At the Oscars, Brendan Fraser, Paul Mescal, and Michael B. Jordan all blinged up their lapels. And let’s not forget Rihanna’s Super Bowl statement: a trio of diamond brooches from New York City estate dealer Joseph Saidian & Sons. The trend has trickled down to jewelry industry folks as well; at the recent Gem Awards, we spotted more man brooches than we could count.

Michael B. Jordan wearing two Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Bird on a Rock brooches—one with a 32 ct. morganite, and another with a 58 ct. green tourmaline

WATCHES 6

In December, Rolex shocked the watch world with the news that it was introducing a certified pre-owned program through its authorized dealers, starting with the Swiss retailer Bucherer. Hailed by Rolex jewelers as a surefire way to bring transparency and greater liquidity to the global resale marketplace, the program, which is restricted to watches at least 3 years old, arrives at a precarious time for the secondary market, with prices on key steel sport models down as much as 50% from their highs last spring. Will the brand be able to sustain the premium its dealers charge for certified models? Time, as they say, will tell.

GMT-Master II in 40 mm Oystersteel case; $11,450; Rolex; 800-36-ROLEX; rolex.com

COLORED STONES

As a barometer of industry sentiment, the Tucson gem shows in February seemed to capture the contradictions of the fine jewelry marketplace circa 2023. Despite dramatic increases in gem costs (“Prices are bonkers,” said designer Lauren Kessler of Lauren K), numerous exhibitors reported their best show ever. One explanation for the buoyant mood: Jewelers were thrilled to be back together in the Sonoran Desert after three years of pandemic. British designer Stephen Webster, celebrating his 40th year at the gem shows, waxed poetic about the annual ritual. “Sometimes you go to a parking lot, and you see something that comes out of a pit, and it comes to the show still looking like a lump of rock. And then it starts to be formed into something glamorous,” he said. “The stories behind the jewelry—you get them here.”

One-of-a-kind Carnival bangles in 18k yellow gold with sapphires, tourmaline, and spinel; from $6,200; Lauren K; info@ laurenk.com; laurenk.com

LAB-GROWN

The industry is still very much divided on the issue of lab-grown diamonds, but there’s broad agreement on two points. First, man-made diamond sales are rising. Second, prices are falling, with some selling for 99% off the Rapaport price list—as close to zero as you can get. Some are saying the lab business needs radical change: “To keep riding on the coattails of the natural business doesn’t work,” warns Stanley Wong, a Hong Kong–based lab diamond consultant. “[Lab-grown needs] its own story.”

TECH

MAJORS 10

Signet has been comfortably ensconced as America’s leading jewelry retailer ever since it bought Zale Corp. in 2014. But under CEO Gina Drosos, the company has used its pandemic-era riches to become even more dominant. In 2021, Signet bought the 22-store chain Diamonds Direct, as well as jewelry rental service Rocksbox. Last year, it bought Blue Nile just two months after the dotcom warhorse announced plans to go public. In many ways, Signet is following its familiar playbook: growth through acquisition. Execs sometimes say their company is not that dominant; its market share accounts for only around 10% of the overall jewelry market. Yet no competitor even comes close. Signet’s biggest challenge, as Fortune recently wrote, may be competing against itself.

Artificial intelligence (AI) has already been hailed as the future of diamond grading, gemstone tracking, and inventory control. But jewelry ads? David Sherwood, CEO of Daniel’s Jewelers, believes so. Seeking a tagline for his 110-store chain’s Valentine’s Day billboards, he turned to ChatGPT, the headlinemaking AI-powered chatbot. In response to a request for “quirky, mildly funny Valentine’s Day taglines for a jeweler,” the bot offered 20 alternatives—one of which (“Bling it”) Sherwood used. The line’s not “amazing,” he admits, nor is it particularly original, and he still needed an agency to execute the rest of the ad. But the tagline was created in all of three seconds, at no cost. Plus, Sherwood adds: “I don’t think anyone would look at the billboard and say that billboard was written by AI.”

Constellation highjewelry necklace in 18k recycled white gold with 48 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds; price on request; en.courbet.com

Earrings ($179 each) from Kay Jewelers’ Gems of Serenity collection, featuring lab-created sapphires in sterling silver

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com

departed Geneva, after attending nearly 60 watch appointments over the course of five days (!). Fueled by bottomless cups of espresso and countless chocolates, I spent most of my time navigating the halls of the Palexpo convention center, home to the reimagined Watches and Wonders fair. I was struck by how busy, buzzy, and generally upbeat the show felt, three years and an age since the start of the pandemic. I could say the same thing about the other watch and jewelry shows I’ve attended this year, from January’s VicenzaOro fair in Italy to the Tucson gem shows in February. Despite—or because of?—the world’s undeniable travails, business has been bright, a phenomenon we explore in “School of Rocks” (page 126), my market update for this issue’s colored stone special section. (As a side note, the brooch pictured here is by designer Stephen Webster, who celebrated his 40th year at the gem shows!)

The success of in-person events, even during a time of economic uncertainty, reflects a couple of factors unique to 2023: One, the relief we all feel at being able to get together after years

“the revenge of brick and mortar.”

Yes, the pandemic taught us that a welloiled e-commerce machine is an essential offering for any retailer who hopes to succeed in the jewelry business—or any business, for that matter. But it simply cannot replace the joy of discovery and real human connection provided by a well-crafted retail experience.

That’s one reason we asked contributing editor Amy Elliott to write about what’s involved in freshening up a retail brand (“A Sharper Image,” page 160)—a cue to store owners that your physical space matters more than ever.

The critical importance of face-to-face gatherings bodes well for the upcoming JCK and Luxury shows. To get a jump on your agenda for the fair, be sure to read “23 (New Things) and You” (page 168), a guide to all the astonishing novelties you can expect to find at The Venetian in early June. Follow that with “Here’s to Las Vegas” (page 150), contributor Matt Villano’s always-reliable overview of this year’s not-to-be-missed dining, entertainment, and nightlife hot spots. Good times, indeed!

STAFF PICKS

Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph Ref. 7968/300R-001 in 18k rose gold with diamond and sapphire bezel; Patek ; 212-218patek.com

RAINBOW TIME

What JCK’s Victoria Gomelsky is loving this month

“The watch world’s obsession with rainbows—rendered in gems or colored metal— knows no end, and I’m here for it.”

—Victoria

Gomelsky, JCK editor-in-chief

Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami in 45 mm black ceramic case with microblasted rhodium-plated dial and 384 colored gemstones; CHF 50,000 ($54,135); Hublot; 800-536-0636; hublot.com

Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Polychrome in 45 mm black PVD titanium case with rainbow-colored skeleton dial; $24,050; TAG Heuer; 973-467-1890; tagheuer.com

Lady Diver Rainbow in 39 mm steel case; $14,200; Ulysse Nardin; 888604-1878; ulysse-nardin.com

Aikon Skeleton Rainbow in 39 mm stainless steel case; sold for $7,000 at Time for Art charity auction; Maurice Lacroix; sales@dkshus. com; mauricelacroix.com

L i g G m gy Si c

Editor-in-Chief

VICTORIA GOMELSKY

Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor

MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

EDITORIAL

News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com

Contributing Editor & Social Media Manager

BRITTANY SIMINITZ / bsiminitz@jckonline.com

Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN

Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS

Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY

Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI

Contributing Editors KAREN DYBIS / kdybis@gmail.com AMY ELLIOTT / aelliott718@gmail.com

Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON

Editorial Contributors

KATHY HENDERSON, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHI-HART, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG

Photography Contributors

JASON KIM, STEPHEN LEWIS, KENJI TOMA, JOEL STANS, DIEGO UCHITEL, YULIA GORBACHENKO, MIKAEL SCHULZ, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, PATRICIA HEAL, JAMES WOJCIK, NICOLE LaMOTTE, KEN GUTMAKER, MARK LUND, BALL & ALBANESE, CODY PICKENS, REBECCA STUMPF, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN

U.S. ADVERTISING SALES

JCK Associate Publisher PATRICIA CARTWRIGHT 203-840-5447 patricia.cartwright@rxglobal.com

JCK Advertising Sales Director RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 randi.gewertz@rxglobal.com

Regional Manager

LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lars.parker-myers@rxglobal.com

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A. 2002227 Natural Diamond Semi-Set Shank Setting, 7.5mm stone, 0.06 ctw, Platinum, 33, $555 | B. SH867 Laser-Engraved Open Shank for 4-Prong Setting, Platinum, $1,205

C. SH801 Floral-Inspired Shank for 4-Prong Setting, Platinum, $2,069 | D. SH878 Natural Diamond Eternity Peg Shank, 1/3 ctw, size 7, Platinum, 33, $1,865 | E. 2002146 Natural Diamond Semi-Set Peg Setting, 6.5×6.5 stone, 0.05 ctw, Platinum, 33, $645 | F. 29972

Natural Diamond Semi-Set Peg Setting, 7mm Stone, 0.05 ctw, Platinum, 33, $535

G. 2000366 Natural Diamond Semi-Set Peg Setting, 8×6mm stone, 0.05 ctw, Platinum, 33, $795 | H. SH881 Natural Diamond Eternity Peg Shank, 3/8 ctw, Size 7, Platinum, 33, $2,029

J. SH785 Cathedral-Style Peg Shank, 5.3mm span, size 7, Platinum, $1,099 | K. SH866

Natural Diamond Peg Shank, 1/5 ctw, size 7, Platinum, 32, $2,059 | L. Natural Teal

Sapphire | M. 2000888 Pear 5-Prong V-End Peg Setting, 9×6mm stone, Platinum, $389

N. Natural Diamond

crafted to travel through life’s memorable moments

A symbol of heirloom quality

A. 124648 Solitaire Engagement Ring Mounting, 2 ct (8mm), Platinum, $1,705

B. 52293 Matching Band, Platinum, $1,209 | C. 61-0199 Eleanor Collection Blush Velvet Hexagon Ring Box, $8.50 | D. 124636 Natural Diamond Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 3 3/4 ct (10×8mm), 1/4 ctw, Platinum, 32, 117, $3,009

A. 57777 Floral-Inspired Ladies’ Band, 2.5mm, Platinum, size 7, $1,195 |

B. 126350 Natural Diamond Eternity Band, 1 1/2 ctw, size 7, Platinum, 32, $5,429 | C. 126239 Natural Diamond Semi-Set Anniversary Band, .06 ctw, Platinum, 32, $1,735 | D. BVL10 Lightweight Standard-Fit Beveled Edge Flat Band, 7mm, Platinum, size 10, $2,845, shown with Ice Finish | E. IR10 Standard-Weight Comfort-Fit Half-Round Band, 7mm, Platinum, size 10, $3,585, shown with Bead Blast Finish

F. F10 Standard-Weight Standard-Fit Flat Band, 7mm, Platinum, size 10, $2,409, shown with Inside Corinthia Engraving | G. HR10 Standard-Weight Standard-Fit Half-Round Band, 7mm, Platinum, size 10, $2,455, shown with Interlocking Chain Pattern

meant to be worn by all for years to come

A pure, hypoallergenic material

A standout

complementing a world of sparkling accents and colorful statements

A. 124127 Natural Diamond Ring Guard, 1/2 ctw, Platinum, 32, $4,815 | B. 122758 Natural Diamond Contour Band, 1/3 ctw, Platinum, 32, $2,529 | C. 123620 Natural Diamond Contour Band, 1/3 ctw, Platinum, 32, $2,129 | D. 126147 Natural Diamond Anniversary Band, 3/8 ctw, Platinum, 32, $2,199 E. 126433 Natural Diamond Anniversary Band, 5/8 ctw, Platinum, 32, $4,095 | F. 87058 Natural Blue Multi-Gemstone and Natural Diamond Necklace, 1/8 ctw, 24.1×6.49mm, Platinum, 16", 32, 55, 77, 347, $1,839 | G. 87273 White Akoya Cultured Pearl and Natural Diamond Necklace, .08 ctw, 20.5×7mm, Platinum, 16", 32, 528, $1,775 | H. 87041 Natural Ethiopian Opal and Natural Diamond Necklace, .08 ctw, 21.01×19.64mm, Platinum, 16-18", 33, 60, $2,245

B. 126282 White Cultured Seed Pearl and Natural Diamond Anniversary Band, 1/4 ctw, Platinum, 16, 32, $2,189 | C. 72354 Natural Aquamarine and White Akoya Cultured Pearl Ring, Platinum, 45, 528, $779 |

A. 88206 Filgree Pierced Heart Necklace, 12.9×10.1mm, Platinum, 16-18", $1,329 |

D. 2000417 Natural Diamond Micro Bezel-Set Earrings, 1/8 ctw, Platinum, 32, $669 | E. 2000358 Natural Diamond Bezel-Set Earrings, 1/5 ctw, Platinum, 32, $1,179 | F. 87283 Natural Diamond Micro Bezel-Set Earrings, 1/10 ctw, Platinum, 38, $759 | G. 2000410 Natural Diamond Bezel-Set Earrings, .08 ctw, Platinum, 21, $639

H. 88043 Natural Diamond Bezel-Set Earrings, 1/6 ctw, Platinum, 21, $985

Stuller.com

800 877 7777

Back cover, from top: 72198 Accented Ring Mounting for Emerald Stone, 5×3mm, Platinum, $1,309 | 72198 Accented Ring Mounting for Round Stone, 6mm, Platinum, $1,659 | 72198 Accented Ring Mounting for Oval Stone, 6×4mm, Platinum, $1,509 | 72198 Accented Ring Mounting for Cushion Stone, 6mm, Platinum, $1,705 72198 Accented Ring Mounting for Pear Stone, 6×4mm, Platinum, $1,569

Front cover, from top: 124702 Solitaire Engagement Ring Mounting, 9/10 ct (10×5mm), Platinum, $1,685 | 52378 Single Notched Comfort-Fit Band, 6mm, Platinum, size 10, $2,775 | 126304 Natural Diamond Anniversary Band, 1/2 ctw, Platinum, 21, $3,039 61-0007 Eva Collection Green Suede Double Ring Circle Box, $9.85

Items are shown larger than actual size. All prices except packaging are suggested retail based on $1,200 platinum. Prices are subject to change without notice. Visit Stuller.com for complete product selections, current pricing, and availability. Diamond weights are not exact. See chart at Stuller.com/DiamondSizeRanges for weight ranges.

16 Cultured Pearl, AA, E | 21 Natural Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I, N 26 Natural Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I, N | 32 Natural Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-H, N | 33 Natural Diamond, I1, G-H, N | 38 Natural Diamond, SI1, G-I, N | 45 Natural Aquamarine, AA, H 55 Natural London Blue Topaz, AA, R | 60 Natural Opal, White, A | 377 Swiss Blue Topaz, AA, N | 117 Natural Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I, N | 347 Natural Sky Blue Topaz, AA, R 528 Akoya Cultured Pearl, White, AA, B

Scan

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Group Vice President / RX USA Jewelry Portfolio

SARIN BACHMANN

203-840-5651 sarin.bachmann@rxglobal.com

INTERNATIONAL ADVERTISINGJCK SHOW & LUXURY

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Luxury 203-840-5955 jessica.audet@rxglobal.com

Key Accounts Manager ANA CROSBY

JCK Show Currents; Diamond Plaza; Plumb Club 203-840-5305 anamaria.crosby@rxglobal.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS

Clockwork, Essentials & Technology, Gallery, Italia, Innovation Hub, Lab-Grown 203-840-5808 lars.parker-myers@rxglobal.com

Account Executive

BARBARA MURRAY

First Look, GEMS 203-840-5820 barbara.murray@rxglobal.com

Sales Executive

MONALISA D e PINA Bridge, Bridal; Design Collective 203-840-5556 monalisa.depina@rxglobal.com

Marketing Manager

MARGARET BLANCO 203-820-0384 margaret.blanco@rxglobal.com

Special Events & Conference Manager

JORDAN FREEMAN 203-840-5567 jordan.freeman@rxglobal.com

GEM AWARDS

TROPHY LIVES

Jewelers of america’s glitzy Gem awards honored Gucci high jewelry, family-owned Nyc retailer Greenwich St. Jewelers, anita Ko, and more

3

5 6

1 2 7 8 4

For Future Reference squad alert: Arianna Pristina Randi Molofsky, nominated designer Kirsty Stone of Retrouvaí, and last year’s Gem-winning designer, Lauren Harwell Godfrey

The family of the late Steven Kaiser—winner of this year’s lifetime achievement Gem Award—proudly accepted the award on behalf of the beloved watch industry veteran.

JA chief financial officer Annie Doresca enjoying the night

Winning Greenwich St. Jewelers sisters Christina Gandia Gambale and Jennifer Gandia

Gem media winner Michelle Graff with fellow nominees Amy Elliott and Sarah Royce-Greensill

Actress Jodie TurnerSmith, sparkling in Gucci gems, presented to the Italian brand.

Designer Anita Ko had Naomi Watts at her table cheering her on.

Eneuri Acosta (r.), chief brand officer of Hodinkee, gave the Gem Award for watches to his company’s CEO, Jeffery Fowler

The always-stylish Dave Bindra of B&B Fine Gems wearing an eye-catching brooch

handpicked homegrown & Forever One™

INDUSTRY ADJUSTS TO POST-PANDEMIC LANDSCAPE

BY ROB BATES

did well over the first half of the year, then started to decline in the second. All of which shows an industry that can no longer count on pandemic-era gains but is still in far better shape than in 2019, with healthier balance sheets, a longer list of prospects, and improved digital savvy.

Tenoris said that while every jewelry category suffered during the holiday, bracelets and necklaces did best, with both categories showing gains by value. (Sales of both dropped by volume.) Necklace sales rose in the $2,500–$7,499 price range.

“Jewelry is no longer selling itself like it was during COVID,” says IDD Luxe president Kendra Bridelle, an industry veteran. “More than ever, the competition is fierce, and you have to differentiate your brand with the right product and pricing.”

On the plus side, the industry now has an expanded array of tools at its disposal. “During COVID, everyone had to learn really fast how to function in a technical world,” Bridelle says. “Today, we have the best of both worlds. You divide your time 50-50 between virtual and in-person meetings, cutting your travel expenses in half while really making the most of the time you do have face-to-face.”

Rahul Jauhari, director of sales and marketing for Kunming

Hexed necklaces in 18k yellow gold with iolite, amethyst, citrine, aquamarine, and peridot in 18k yellow gold; $4,250 each; Harwell Godfrey; mark@ markdluxury.com; harwellgodfrey.com

Diamonds, says many diamond companies developed “financial discipline” during the pandemic. “They learned to do businesses online and through other channels,” he says. “They are no longer buying just for the sake of buying.”

Most people agree that jewelers have learned numerous lessons—the key is to keep applying them. “The

THE

pandemic proved to be a catalyst for the industry to innovate in the way that we communicate and build client relationships, particularly in the digital space,” says David Kellie, CEO of the Natural Diamond Council (NDC). “In order to maintain our momentum, we need to continue this innovation and inspire new audiences with the same energy and determination and recognize that digital is the first touchpoint for many consumers in our industry.”

For consultant Peter Smith, it’s clear that while many companies may not maintain their COVID-era gains, those that “execute really well” have a shot. “We need to get back to basics, but not to old habits,” he says. “That comes down to having product that sells, using data and automating everything you can, being great on customer relationship management, and wowing every customer.”

Avi Levy, president of the North American branch of International Gemological Institute, adds that just as the industry adjusted to business during the pandemic, it has to adjust to post-pandemic business.

“The other day someone said, ‘Our year was down last year,’ ” Levy says. “I

said, ‘Was it really down or just not as good as 2021?’ Because that was one of the best years we ever had.

“COVID showed us we have an amazing audience. They bought for the right reasons, for emotional reasons. That’s where we have to focus as an industry.”

Fine Jewelry Displays

Designer Mckenzie Liautaud (l.) at a NDC x Jewelry Edit pop-up

“A local store owner should be out there doing things for the community. That’s the role we serve as small-business owners. It’s not just to sit and open at 10 o’clock and close at 6 and ring things up all day.”

—John

Carter, president and CEO of Jack Lewis Jewelers in Bloomington, Ill., on guest-conducting the Illinois Symphony Orchestra during the holiday season

3 Questions for... BRUCE

CLEAVER

IN FEBRUARY, BRUCE Cleaver stepped down after nearly seven years as CEO of De Beers Group. His successor, oil executive Al Cook, is an industry newcomer. Here, Cleaver talks with JCK about his future, launching the lab-grown diamond brand Lightbox, and coping with the pandemic. —RB

Going forward, you will be co-chair of De Beers along with Duncan Wanblad, CEO of Anglo American. How do you regard your new role? I will be spending a bit more time on external engagements. [Being De Beers CEO is] a very, very busy and complex role, and it’s hard to get out to all of the places you would like to get to. I always go to Las Vegas, but I haven’t gone to other [shows]. I do intend to keep in contact with the trade. Hopefully, you’ll see more of me going forward.

Can you tell us about your decision to introduce Lightbox in 2018? It’s one of the scariest things I’ve ever done. If we launched…too soon, we [might have] legitimized a whole category quicker than we should have. What if it was launched too late, and the genie was out of the bottle? We probably launched at the right time.

Q&A

I knew it would be a big story, but I didn’t realize how big a story. We weren’t able to spend a lot of time pre-briefing, like we would ordinarily do. We managed to launch it without the news leaking, which is pretty unusual in the diamond business.

It’s part of the cultural change at De Beers to get people to think more about innovation and to do things differently and be prepared to take a chance. Not all of these things work, but…that’s the only way you’re going to grow your business in the 2020s. We have made a lot of progress in that regard.

You presided over De Beers during the pandemic. Any reflections on that?

We have risk registers at De Beers, where we pore over all the risks we can think of, and we assign people to think about how to deal with them if they happen. Of course, pandemic was not on that list…nor was a war in Ukraine.

We live in a world that is so volatile and so subject to change. That’s a lesson for all businesses in the diamond world. You have to be ready, and you have to be prepared to be resilient.

The bounce-back in 2021 was incredible. I always thought that we would have a strong bounce-back, but I didn’t expect it to be as strong as it was.

The diamond industry is a cyclical business. It’s an industry that, in dark times, likes to talk a great deal about why things are bad. But then they turn, as they always do. And I always say to people, you’ve got to be more calm through the downturns as well as the upturns, because they both come.

Lab-grown diamonds by Lightbox

rows of warm wooden watch displays. The rugs add color and texture with shades of orange, blue, and tan, while exposed brick walls lend the space a sense of history, reminding you that this store and its owners have been serving the Raleigh area for 75 years.

The final element is the store’s feel-good vibe. A custom record console keeps the music streaming with a playlist that ranges from Frank Sinatra to Sia, a high-end bourbon bar keeps the libations flowing, and the showcases are stocked with plenty of cool, unexpected products from brands including Wrensilva (record consoles), Vintage Electric Bikes, and Bailey Hats (no relation to the family business).

Trey Bailey spoke to JCK about the details that set Fox & Bailey apart.

Why did you want this part of the store to feel different from the rest of Bailey’s Fine Jewelry?

We had an opportunity to take over the tenant next to us. This time, we

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

didn’t know if we needed the space. But we decided if we take it, we should do something really different. We came up with a list of ideas, and the one for Fox & Bailey won out. We wanted to create a unique environment where watches would be displayed differently. Our motto was: If it looks and feels like a jewelry store, then we failed.

What are your favorite decor choices for Fox & Bailey?

We found 180-year-old wood floors. We brought in bricks from a centur y-old building in Charleston. We built a bar out of those wood floors. We added liquor lockers for our clients. It feels like a men’s club, but women are enjoying it just as much as the men.

Why add touches like the record player?

We were just a little bitty store when my grandparents started it; we did watch repair and a little bit of jewelry sales. My grandfather wanted more traffic, so he became a record dealer. They played music outside to drive traffic. Then, in 1964, the Beatles happened. We became the most popular store in town. My grandmother always says the Beatles made Bailey’s. So we wanted to pay tribute to that with the record player and music.

What’s one part of the store that you love to share?

Behind the bar, there’s a private room that we decided to make for women specifically. We originally thought we’d do a man cave in the back. But

my wife, Marci, took the space over and created a place where women can hang out. It’s got hidden doors as well as a watch vault in there.

What reactions have you received from customers?

One of the best compliments we’ve gotten so far is that every time people come in, they see something new or different. They might notice the stuffed fox in the corner of the bar or the carved longhorn spray-painted gold. There are people in here just watching the game and hanging out. We’re hosting events and bringing in watch clubs to use the space for meetings and offering it as a safe space to meet and transact. It’s about creating memories and sharing our store with everyone.

“It feels like a men’s club, but women are enjoying it just as much as the men.”

A Rolex Batman and matching watch roll

The Club Campus Nomos Glashütte

BY B B

Friday, June 2 –

Monday, June 5, 2023

GEMS & JCK TALKS

OPENING JUNE 1

THE VENETIAN EXPO, LAS VEGAS

What’s New?

SEE WHAT’S SET TO BE #TRENDING AT THE WORLD’S MOST IMPORTANT EVENT FOR THE JEWELRY TRADE. WE’RE BACK WITH MORE OF EVERYTHING.

DISCOVER THE INSIDER PEEK AT THE JCK SHOW SPREAD IN THIS ISSUE.

LEARN MORE ABOUT JCK LAS VEGAS

JCK2023.COM/BACKWITHMORE

Q: If you sell lab-grown diamonds, how do you handle trade-ins and buybacks?

JOE STEHLE OWNER FACET & CO. Virginia City, Nev.

a: Since many of our sub40-year-old bridal clientele see the financial benefit of lab-grown diamonds, I always make sure they are completely and transparently educated on all pros, cons, and conjecture surrounding this market. When asked about future pricing forecasts, I tell him/her that pricing will assuredly continue to decline due to lack of rarity and infinite production possibilities. At this time, we don’t offer buybacks on any lab-grown diamond jewelry, and we state that during the initial diamond education. This doesn’t go against our brand at all, since we don’t offer returns or buybacks on any jewelry item. Most of our clientele who are purchasing a lab-grown diamond are driven by look versus price. The idea of diamonds as a means to a financial return simply doesn’t resonate.

COREY PRESIDENT DAY’S JEWELERS Waterville, Maine

SARAH MARTIN ROWE OWNER THE LEAKE CO. Louisville, Ky.

a: I do not deal with labgrown on a daily basis, but I am happy to offer it as an option for customers if they ask about it or if it will suit their needs. I explain to them that prices of most lab-grown diamonds have fallen drastically on both the wholesale and retail levels over the past five years, and there is therefore reason to believe that they will continue to do so. With that in mind, I do not offer a buyback or trade-in policy on lab-grown diamonds. Very few of my customers consider a jewelry purchase to be an investment, and I would never suggest that jewelry could potentially be one. As I explain it, jewelry may increase in value generationally. Your heirs may be able to sell jewelry that you leave to them for more than you paid for it, 40 years from now.

a: Our salespeople do not promote lab; we always show natural first. We do carry lab-grown because we do find that some consumers are completely set on purchasing a lab, and we aren’t in the business of turning down sales. We do not allow lab diamonds to be traded in, nor do we purchase them off the street. We disclose the no-trade-in policy as well as address the value concern in every lab sale. We require a customer sign-off at the point of sale that discloses this information as well.

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY?

jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag

a:

So far, no one has asked for a trade-in for a lab-grown. It would have to be a trade-up. What we have decided is, should it come up, we will give people market value, but they would have to spend double. If they’re hoping to grow their diamond, they have to spend more or they’re not going to see a difference. That is in the best interest of both us and the client. But at this point, we haven’t been asked once.

JOE

330 BLEECKER ST. NEW YORK CITY

THE SEVEN

The magnificent store in New York City’s West Village melds elevated antiques with an eccentric point of view

BY KAREN DYBIS

WITH THE SEVEN, jewelry collector Camille Zarsky and her design partner in crime, Blake Brunson, created a haven in the heart of Manhattan’s West Village neighborhood that combines luxury with a touch of bohemian artistry.

The store, which opened in November, is loaded with details that speak to Zarsky’s eccentric style, including custom dog-centric wallpaper, painted floors by artist Zahra Ali, and century-old cabinets. “What she wanted was pink, over the top, and fabulous, and I was happy to oblige,” Brunson says.

Zarsky says she wanted The Seven to feel like Annabel’s, a private supper club in London known for its glamour and intimacy. Her store would be a place where she could experiment with not only how people sold jewelry but also the kind of personal relationship her clients could have with the designers.

“We had a lot of conversations around the state of retail today, mainly: ‘Why would I go to a store when I can shop online?’ ” Brunson says. “To us, the answer is to have an experience. Every choice we made had to answer that question.”

Necklaces by Lauren Rubinski

Pendants by Loquet London; rings by Christina Alexiou and Sophie Joanne

THE SEVEN SISTERS

Zarsky named the store after her mother’s siblings and, later, her mom’s jewelry line, Le Sette Sorelle, Italian for “the seven sisters.” Zarsky says her mom, the late Meredith Wilson, was an artist who worked as the educational curator for Houston’s Contemporary Arts Museum. The Seven had to reflect her grace and hosting abilities.

“I hate the idea of just cases and salespeople standing behind them,” Zarsky says. “To me, that’s off-putting.”

The store also reflects Zarsky’s desire to be a patron of the arts for jewelry designers. “We walk people through each designer’s story and their collection—we want them to know how each piece is created,” Zarsky says. “I want them to be educated on this art form and the way each designer works.”

UNIQUE AND HIDDEN TOUCHES

Zarsky lives in the West Village, so she wanted a shop nearby. After a successful summer pop-up in Sag Harbor on Long Island, she snagged a corner spot on Bleecker Street that called to her with its welcoming vibe. Next, she reached out to Brunson, whom she followed on Instagram.

“She’s so talented and so cool,” Zarsky says. “She had this vision of a hidden door in the back that led to our VIP room where designers could meet with customers and do something custom—a space where they could get to know each other. That’s hugely important because I want to lean hard into the one-of-a-kind aspect of what my designers do.”

The designer roster includes some of the buzziest names in jewelry, including Emily P. Wheeler, Loquet London, State Property, and The One I Love.

ANTIQUES, DOGS, AND GREENERY

For furnishings, Zarsky and Brunson sought out antiques. For example, the store features a Louis XV gilt-metal-inlaid desk as well as an Irish Regency–style mahogany console table. They found craftspeople to lovingly refinish and reupholster the pieces, preparing them for another life within The Seven. A standout feature is the wallpaper. It is a hand-painted creation by wallpaper specialist Gracie, blending a dreamscape from Zarsky’s childhood with portraits of the many dogs she has owned throughout her life. “The dogs were always in the conversation,” Brunson says. “Camille has had many rescues over the years, and Gracie did a fabulous job capturing each dog, past and present.

“Camille is Italian but grew up in Houston, so I thought, ‘Well, if we’re having lemon trees and olive trees, how about a live oak and a magnolia tree?” Brunson adds. “It would have been impossible to design a space without incorporating who she is.”

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE?

GO TO

TO TELL US MORE.

“We walk people through each designer’s story and their collection—we want them to know how each piece is created.”

(Top and r.) Jewels by AS29, Sorellina, Mason and Books, Emily P. Wheeler, Jenna Blake, and Renna

The entrance to The Seven on Bleecker Street (a coveted Village location)

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK

HIDE & PEEK

1 / Marvel locket with pink sapphires and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $16,000; Future Fortune; mark@markdluxury. com; futurefortunejewelry.com

2 / Star Locked pendant with tanzanite and diamonds in 20k gold; $7,200; Buddha Mama; elizabethbonanno@ me.com; buddhamama.com

3 / 22k gold and oxidized silver locket with tsavorite and diamonds; $4,890; Arman Sarkisyan; info@arman sarkisyan.com; armansarkisyan.com

Lockets may hold precious secrets within, but these luxe versions—decked with ornamental details—are just as swoon-worthy from the outside

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

4 / Venetian Princess tassel locket in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $19,050; Roberto Coin; concierge@ coinusa.com; robertocoin.com

5 / 18k rose gold enamel, sapphire, and diamond Blunt locket; $4,930; Marie Lichtenberg; hello@marie lichtenberg.com; marielichtenberg.com

Pearl,

Trade Bead necklace on 24-inch 18k yellow gold woven gold chain;

HREE DECADES AGO, Ron Anderson and David Rees (pictured) debuted a fine jewelry company consisting ely of pieces they made themselves. Borrowing a phrase from ancient Chinese philosophy, “from one thing begets the ten thousand things,” their newly christened Ten Thousand Things line was an immediate smash, with Kate Moss photographed wearing their pearl cross earrings in one of her first Calvin Klein ads.

In the years that followed, Rees and Anderson kept their business small, working from a series of shops in Lower Manhattan and catering to clients who became collectors. Now, as then, Ten Thousand Things pieces feature intricate beading, organic shapes, and a rainbow of natural gemstones. Now, as then, you can find the two founders hard at work in a small studio behind their shop, currently located on a block of townhouses in Greenwich Village.

“We are living the dream,” Rees says of Ten Thousand Things’ enduring success. “Ron and I have always been committed to making beautiful jewelry; we’ve always indulged ourselves creatively. That’s our goal and our focus: to use rare and unusual materials to make things that are surprising to the eye.”

Their efforts have been rewarded by both the jewelry industr y, with a 2023 Gem Awards nomination, and the design community, with a recent 30th-anniversary exhibition of their work at Pratt Institute in Brooklyn. Additionally, a one-of-a-kind emerald waterfall necklace crafted by Anderson was featured in a salute to Black jewelry designers hosted by Sotheby’s. Not bad for two

labradorite, and aquamarine

$3,350

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

studio environment.”

—David Rees

self-taught jewelers who moved to New York City from the Midwest—Anderson is from Michigan, Rees grew up in Ohio—seeking careers in fashion.

The company’s origin story is very ’80s: Rees had jumped from a sales position at the Upper West Side cult boutique Charivari to Linda Dresner’s high-end shop on Park Avenue. One day, Anderson dropped by to show off jewelry he had made for a runway show by Isaia Rankin, an emerging Black designer with a penchant for Lycra dresses. Anderson had become fascinated by the mechanics of jewelry after taking a job in the repair department of a costume jewelry store. “I started buying broken things at flea markets and reassembling them,” he recalls. He concluded that jewelry-making was a more realistic goal than clothing design, noting, “You can have an entire jewelry company in a tackle box.” Rees and Anderson hit it off and decided to work together, sharing design duties while Rees handled finances and marketing.

As the more extroverted half of the partnership, Rees chats easily about the company’s development and aesthetic. Anderson chimes in from his bench while repairing a client’s 30-year-old necklace laced with dozens of tiny pink sapphire beads. “Well, I’m trying to do what we did in 1992,” he says with a laugh. Ten Thousand Things’ signature beading, which Rees describes as a “proprietary technique,” uses tiny bits of metal and mesh to thread beads onto chains and earrings in artful clusters. “It was all based on Ron’s ideas,” Rees says, “and it’s still a hallmark of our collection and the thing we sell most consistently.”

Rees and Anderson’s encyclopedic knowledge of natural stones and where to find them is key to their unique, personal jewelry. A luxe charm necklace, for example, combines tourmaline, emeralds, and American and Tahitian pearls on a gold chain. Each stone reflects what was available at the time. When pearls from Lake Biwa in Japan became difficult to find, the designers turned to freshwater pearls farmed in the Mississippi River. When Sleeping Beauty turquoise and Paraiba tourmaline became rare, they turned to lapis, jade, amber, chrysoprase, rhodochrosite (“the love stone”), mother-of-pearl, chalcedony, labradorite, and onyx. “If something disappears from the line, it’s because we can’t get the material anymore,” Rees says. “That’s what happens when you work with things that come out of the earth.”

A pivot toward larger sculptural earrings began five years ago during a life-changing trip to Jaipur. Sara Beltran, designer of the Dezso jewelry line and a friend of Rees and Anderson, had lived in India and urged them to take advantage of local lapidaries who could hand-cut flat gems to be assembled with 18k gold wire into totem and chandelier earrings. “We were able to work directly with the cutters, who spent time with our samples and helped us perfect our custom shapes,” Anderson says. “It’s the kind of experience you dream of.” After a pandemic pause, the designers hope to return to India later this year.

With a tiny staff (one bench assistant, a recent graduate of SUNY New Paltz’s metal program, plus one full-time salesperson), Rees and Anderson are content to remain

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

hands-on in every area of their business, including marketing the line at trade shows and maintaining the company’s website and social media presence. “That’s David’s other job,” Anderson says of the Ten Thousand Things Instagram account, which features jewelry photographed on a black background. “I’m HR, too,” Rees quips. “If you have any HR concerns, other than about me, I’m here for you.”

Rees and Anderson take an old-school approach to brickand-mortar retail. “I think of us as the quintessential New York brand because we’ve had stores for 27 of our 30 years and we’re embedded in the community,” Rees says. After bouncing around Tribeca, the Lower East Side, and the Village, Ten Thousand Things settled into a storefront on West 13th Street six years ago. The block isn’t as quiet as it may seem, Rees says, noting, “This location is on an axis to the Whitney Museum, and ‘art ladies’ are our perfect client.”

The designers were surprised to discover that first-time customers tend to be familiar with the brand already from studying the website or Instagram. “They walk in knowing everything they want to look at,” Rees says. “[The shop and website] are inextricably linked at this point.” The line is also available at about 30 stores around the country, including a longtime relationship with Twist and a newer, very successful online partnership with Moda Operandi.

Ten Thousand Things has maintained its status in the fine jewelry marketplace by concentrating on basics. “You have to stick to your principles and do what you want to do,” Rees says. “We sit at our benches all day making things with our hands, and we laugh a lot. We’re all about the studio environment.”

The industry’s esteem for the brand was evident at a packed NYC Jewelry Week event at Pratt last November, where the duo shared highlights from their archive, some of which have since been offered for sale. “It’s fun for our collectors to say, ‘This was made in 1992,’ because the stones and techniques are different now,” Rees says.

Inventing and reinventing their line keeps both men motivated, Anderson adds. “We always say that we didn’t know the rules [of fine jewelry], so we weren’t afraid to break them.”

Peruvian Opal Double Studded Beaded bracelet on oxidized sterling $342

Pearl Multi-Cluster necklace on oxidized sterling silver chain; $245

Aquamarine earrings with 18k gold ear

Chopard

Joaillerie necklace with 122.49 cts. t.w. octagonal emeralds and 92.57 cts. t.w. pear, marquise, baguette, and round diamonds in Fairmined-certified white gold

SOFIA CARSON

Singer-actress Sofia Carson went full-on fairy princess in Giambattista Valli Haute Couture for the 2023 Oscars, and we’re not mad at it. A bit bridal? Perhaps. But the hue seemed to be a theme on Hollywood’s big night: Michelle Williams, Mindy Kaling, Halle Berry, Emily Blunt, Rooney Mara, and Michelle Yeoh were girls in white dresses as well. (Alas, no blue satin sashes to be found.) Yet only Blunt, in pink sapphire and diamond Chopard chandelier earrings, and Carson, in a diamond and emerald statement necklace by Chopard, were brave enough to venture beyond all-white jewels.

Necklace with 45.91 cts. t.w. octagonal emeralds, 19.08 cts. t.w. baguette diamonds, and 8.99 cts. t.w. round diamonds in 18k white gold; $880,000; Picchiotti; 404-2399900; picchiotti.com

WHAT A GEM!

We’d like to thank these Academy attendees for choosing colored stones on the champagne carpet

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

9.01 cts. t.w. emerald and 5.58 cts. t.w. diamond necklace in 18k white gold; $29,700; Trésor; 305-375-0935; tresorcollection.com

UNDER $50,000

Haute

Bulgari high jewelry ring in white gold with turquoise, 4.55 ct. oval emerald, 1.94 cts. t.w. triangular diamonds, and 1.2 cts. t.w. step-cut diamonds

$10,000

Earrings with 1.04 cts. t.w. diamonds and 2.22 cts. t.w. sapphires in 18k white gold; $6,480; Beverley K; info@ beverleyk.com; beverleyk.com

StEPhANIE hSU

We love pretty much Everything (Everywhere All at Once) about supporting-actress nominee Hsu’s look. The shocking pink of the Valentino Haute Couture gown, the corseted bodice, and even the big balloon skirt that hardly anyone can pull off (she did!). Normally we’d wish for a necklace with something strapless, but those Cartier sapphire and diamond earrings are enough. No notes!

Cartier [Sur]naturel high jewelry earrings with platinum, sapphires, and diamonds

Queen faceted 2 ct. oval emerald ring with turquoise enamel in 18k yellow gold; $3,200; Goshwara; info@ goshwara.com; goshwara.com

Asks...

LAURA GALLON

the Paris-born, l.A.-based designer brings her effortless-chic style to the luxury show

SHARP-EYED SHOWGOERS remember Laura Gallon from last year’s JCK, her first trade-fair appearance. This year, she’s back with her brand-new Astral capsule collection. “I’ve sketched and dreamt of this for two years now,” says Gallon, who created a set of nine unisex pendants using pavé gemstones to embody the planets. “The ruling planet of your zodiac sign has an important impact on who you are. I wanted everyone to be able to carry that with them wherever they go.” —MELISSA

ROSE BERNARDO

Age: 33

Number of years in the biz: Five

Family and pets: My dog/travel companion, Mishka [ pictured ], a 10-year-old King Charles Cavalier named after the vintage teddy bear which has been in my mom’s car since I was born.

Describe your personal style: Feminine with a modern touch. Some days it will be more romantic with a silk blouse and high-waist suede pants; other days it will be a bit more edgy with a biker jacket and slim ripped jeans. In general, I think that my style is quite Parisian, effortless chic.

First piece you ever designed: A ring with a stunning pear-shape tsavorite and a split shank with diamonds. Piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: The Mon Amour earrings from the Alice collection, a design created by my great-grandfather for his wife Alice in the 1920s. Best advice you ever received: “Listen to your intuition; don’t let yourself be influenced by others but do what feels right to you.”

“You should do this because that’s what everyone else is doing.”

First job ever: Marketing assistant at Net-A-Porter in NYC. How did you get started designing jewelry? I started in fashion, but my heart wasn’t 100% in it. I had been hearing stories about my great-grandparents who were jewelers in France since my early childhood. When my father gave me a pair of art deco earrings made by my great-grandfather, it clicked.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? Traveling the world and opening wildlife sanctuaries.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: A yellow gold coin necklace with a hummingbird engraved in it (my lucky charm), my grandmother’s blue sapphire ring, and diamond studs.

Five items on your desk right now: A picture of my father and me as a baby, a small flower arrangement, my notepad, my loupe, and a snack.

Five songs on your playlist: “La Bachata,” Manuel Turizo; “Yo No Sé Mañana,” Luis Enrique; “Ahora Te Puedes Marchar,” Luis Miguel [ pictured ]; “Raphaël,” Carla Bruni; “Dance Moves,” Moonlight Breakfast [ pictured ].

Exercise regimen: I do a 45-minute at-home workout six times a week with an online trainer. Can’t live without it. What did you have for breakfast? My breakfasts are quite French: toast with butter, honey, or jam; Earl Grey tea with milk.

Guilty pleasure: My mother’s fondue.

Drink (daytime/evening): Sparkling water with lime/a Bellini. How do you unwind? Dinner with my girlfriends.

A Paris must-visit: Hotel Costes, my favorite spot since forever.

Book you’re reading: A French novel: Marc Levy’s Éteignez tout et la vie s’allume (Turn Off Everything and Life Turns On)

Favorite movie: Jeux d’Enfants (Love Me If You Dare)— a French romantic classic.

Who would play you in your life story? Margot Robbie [ pictured ]—love her!

Personal motto: “Listen to your inner self—if it feels right, go for it, and if you fail, you learn.”

Uranus Aquarius necklace in 18k yellow gold with blue zircons and diamonds

Noémie ring in 18k yellow gold with tsavorite and diamonds

Mon Amour white earrings in 18k white gold with diamonds

Pioneering Authenticity,Transparency, & Quality

Michael Indelicato - CEO of RDI Diamonds®

With your support and trust, we have grown from a small, family-run business to one of the world’s largest and leading suppliers of diamonds. You’ve depended on us to help you meet the rapidly changing needs of our industry and we’ve delivered.

We’ve maintained double-digit growth for more than 25 years, expanded our footprint, and grown our business this year, to better serve the jewelers who rely on RDI Diamonds®. We’ve learned that being openminded, inclusive, and resilient is critical for growth and forging the modernization our industry deserves.

We’ve hired smart people, partnered with forward-thinking companies, and built a network of more than 4,000 retailers, many of them family-run businesses like ours, to transform the jewelry industry by providing customers what they want—authenticity, transparency, and quality services and products.

We are committed to continually innovating to better serve you. We’ll continue to deliver exceptional customer service and the training, tools, and technology you need to create new and better conversations at the retail counter.

RDI Diamonds® will help you build your business and win new customers by providing access to thousands of highquality diamonds, including Rare & Forever® natural diamonds. Diamonds that are hand selected for their brilliance and graded with cutting edge A.I. Technology for accuracy and consistency that customers can’t find on the Internet. We will empower you to offer your customers a truly superior diamond shopping experience.

We thank you—our people, partners, and retailers—for being part of our family and our journey.

STRAIGHTLINE & GRADUATED

Available

TENNIS BRACELETS

ASSCHER

CLUSTER PENDANT & STUDS

Available in White Gold, Rose Gold, & Yellow Gold ¼cttw - 1.0cttw *Chain

STUD EARRINGS

Available In White Gold, Rose Gold, & Yellow Gold 0.05cttw - 2.0cttw

IN&OUT HOOPS

Available In White Gold, Rose Gold, & Yellow Gold 1.0cttw - 7.0cttw

STATION NECKLACES & BRACELETS

Available In White Gold, Rose Gold, & Yellow Gold

Bracelets: 0.25cttw - 1.0cttw | Necklaces: 0.25cttw - 2.0cttw

Natural Diamonds Graded to aNewStandard

WE DO DIAMONDS Differently

With such a rigorous selection process, Rare & Forever® guarantees that only the most beautiful diamond will become a Rare & Forever® diamond.

1

Pre-Screened for No BGM

Rare & Forever® screens for brown tints, green tints, and milky hues that other diamond sellers do not. When these tints and hues are present, it greatly devalues the diamond.

4

Extra Security Feature

Rare & Forever ® inscribes our diamonds with a special security feature—an ionic inscription. This special security feature is located under the surface of the table and can never be removed.

2

Light

Performance

Rare & Forever® measures the sparkle and fire in every diamond. This means that the Rare & Forever® diamond sparkles bright in every lighting condition, from a dimly lit room to bright sunlight.

5

Upgrade for Life

Rare & Forever®’s Upgrade for Life policy allows your customer’s diamond to grow as their love grows. If your customer buys a diamond and later in life decides they want to upgrade, they can!

3

Graded by A.I. Technology

Rare & Forever® is one of the only diamond companies in the world that uses A.I. Technology to grade diamonds. This process ensures that the diamonds are graded with accuracy and consistency, giving you exactly what you pay for.

6

Diamonds that Give Back

When you purchase a Rare & Forever® diamond, you can be confident that your diamond is giving back. Rare & Forever® supports both local and global charities like C.U.R.E. Childhood Cancer Association and Diamonds Do Good.

What sets Rare & Forever apart from online retailers and other competitors is our rigorous screening process. We provide a distinct differential advantage to our Rare & Forever partners, a distinguishing factor absent in the diamond grading process of online retailers. The difference is easily noticeable in comparison and contributes to what makes Rare & Forever the most brilliant choice!

To find out more about becoming a Rare & Forever partner visit become.rareandforever.com/learn-more or call 877.620.1333

AMERICA’S DIAMOND SPECIALIST

AMERICA’S DIAMOND SPECIALIST

RDI Diamonds, Inc. operates as one of the country's largest diamond wholesalers. Our philosophy of collaboration, integrity, and goodwill with our partners, both within this country and from around the world, is key to our long-term success.

RDI Diamonds, Inc. operates as one of the country's largest diamond wholesalers. Our philosophy of collaboration, integrity, and goodwill with our partners, both within this country and from around the world, is key to our long-term success.

RDI Diamonds, Inc. prides itself on being a certified member (#00004266) of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) since 2015.

RDI Diamonds, Inc. prides itself on being a certified member (#00004266) of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) since 2015.

Adhering to those strict international guidelines ensures RDI Diamonds, Inc. uses only the most ethically and transparently sourced diamond material on the planet and we are independently audited frequently to prove it.

Adhering to those strict international guidelines ensures RDI Diamonds, Inc. uses only the most ethically and transparently sourced diamond material on the planet and we are independently audited frequently to prove it.

As such, we commit to the best of our ability our loose diamonds are sighted solely through channels NOT affiliated or congruent with Russian diamond mining and distribution.

As such, we commit to the best of our ability our loose diamonds are sighted solely through channels NOT affiliated or congruent with Russian diamond mining and distribution.

Thank you for your business!

Thank you for your business!

THIS YEAR’S TOP SELLERS? DEMANTOID GARNET, WATERMELON TOURMALINE, AND SIX-FIGURE STONES. PLUS : MAGENTA IS HAVING A MOMENT.

· Rivières ·

Small Elliptic Rivière necklace with rose of France in sterling silver and black rhodium; $2,475; Nakard; sales@nakarmstrong.com; nakarmstrong.com

Necklace with sapphires, emeralds, fire opals, beryl, tourmaline, blue topaz, rubellite, citrine, amethysts, garnets, tanzanite, and green gold quartz in 18k black rhodium–plated gold; $72,000; Sauer; yvonne@sauer1941. com; sauer1941.com

3 / Anna Riviera necklace with citrine in 14k yellow gold; $8,450; Mateo; mateo@mateonewyork.com; mateonewyork.com

4 / Luzia Royal Cluster Rivière in black rhodium–washed sterling silver with lemon and lavender moon quartz, yellow citrine, rainbow moonstones, diamonds, orange and yellow sapphires, tsavorite, and multi-gemstone foil mix; $15,000; Larkspur & Hawk; wholesale@larkspurandhawk. com; larkspurandhawk.com

5 / Multicolor Rivière necklace with blue topaz, labradorite, lemon quartz, amethysts, and clear quartz in black rhodium–plated brass; $650; Bounkit; 212-244-1877; bounkit.com

1 / Opal beaded necklace in 18k gold; $6,800; Sorellina; orders@ sorellinanyc.com; sorellinanyc.com

2 / Talisman XL Clover pendant with hand-cut white opal in 14k yellow gold; $38,600; Retrouvaí; traci@retrouvai.com; retrouvai.com

3 / Snow Drop long drop earrings with 8 mm pearls and mother-ofpearl in 14k green gold; $995; Judi Powers; info@judipowersjewelry. com; judipowersjewelry.com

4 / Vic ring with rainbow moonstones in 18k yellow gold; $6,800; Jade Ruzzo; mark@ markdluxury.com; jaderuzzo.com

5 / One-of-a-kind Jellyfish earrings in labradorite and 18k yellow gold; $4,120; Rachel Atherley; info@rachelatherley. com; rachelatherley.com

4 / Pavé Gemmy Gem Supreme Beaded Candy necklace with pink tourmaline in 18k gold; $93,860; Irene Neuwirth; sales@irene neuwirth.com; ireneneuwirth.com

5 / One-of-a-kind cocktail ring with 7.17 ct. oval Malaya garnet and 1.14 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds in 18k rose gold with pink finish; $38,000; Katherine Jetter; info@katherinejetter.com; katherinejetter.com

3 / One-of-a-kind earrings with mandarin garnet, Australian opal, Arizona turquoise, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $17,245; Parlé; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

4 / Necklace with Sleeping Beauty turquoise, pink tourmaline, and diamonds in 18k gold; $98,495; Stephen Dweck; sales@stephen dweck.com; stephendweck.com

5 / One-of-a-kind Candy cuff with amethyst, turquoise, blue topaz, chrysoprase, and lapis in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Brent Neale; sales@brentneale.com; brentneale.com

3

4 / Awakenings bombé ring with 6.12 cts. t.w. sapphires in 18k yellow gold; $20,000; ARK; hello@arkfinejewelry. com; arkfinejewelry.com

5 / Butterfly necklace in 18k yellow gold with carved bicolor tourmaline, pink and orange sapphires, and diamonds; $5,500; Lauren K; info@ laurenk.com; laurenk.com

1 / Serpenti High Jewelry watch in 18k white gold with 52.05 cts. t.w. diamonds and 45.75 cts. t.w. mandarin garnets, yellow and orange sapphires, rubellites, and pink tourmaline; Bulgari; price on request; 800-BULGARI; bulgari.com

2 / Rock Candy bracelet in shades of pink with symbol lock (not pictured) in 14k yellow gold; $5,300–$7,200; Eden Presley; sales@edenpresley. com; edenpresley.com

/ Los Angeles Ombré Cigar Ring with sapphires, amethyst, and spinel in 18k rose gold; $9,800; Emily P. Wheeler; info@emilypwheeler.com; emilypwheeler.com

SCHººL RºCºfkS

by Victoria Gomelsky

February, the longtime gem dealer stood in the middle of his booth, stealing glances at his son, Niveet, Omi Privé’s president and lead designer, who was chatting with an older couple in casual attire.

“It looks like it’s a deal,” Omi said, referring to a 25 ct. Imperial topaz from Brazil on the counter between them.

At $10,000 per carat, the stone was no trifling purchase. That it was on the verge of selling (and later did sell) to the low-key collector couple seemed to bear out a common takeaway from this year’s gem show extravaganza in the Sonoran Desert. “There’s stronger interest at the top of the market because people are trying to hedge against inflation,” said Dave Bindra, vice president of B&B Fine Gems in Los Angeles.

For a confluence of trade fairs whose fortunes are inextricably tied to American retailers’ collective holiday performance, the 2023 Tucson gem shows were a surprisingly stellar affair. Even though fourth quarter sales were complicated by soaring inflation, the specter of recession, and the ongoing war in Ukraine, the dynamics of the gem market are such that “the scarcity of finer materials is basically driving the trends,” Stuart Robertson, president of Gemworld International, said during an educational seminar organized by AGTA in Tucson.

“There’s a dual incentive to own fine colored stones,” Robertson added. “When the economy is good and people are flush with money, they buy for emotional reasons. When the

GEM PRICES HAVE SOARED, BUT DEMAND AT THE HIGH END HAS REMAINED STEADY. SOME DEALERS EXPLAINED THE DYNAMIC BY POINTING TO COLORED STONES’ AGE-OLD APPEAL AS A FORM OF PORTABLE WEALTH.

Love Bug pendant in 14k gold with fire opal, turquoise, and diamonds; $3,470; Mason and Books

Dave Bindra (@gemfluencer) with a 16 ct. spinel from the Mahenge region of Tanzania

Ring with 3.38 ct. pink spinel, 1.81 cts. t.w. violet spinel, and 0.42 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold; $30,000; Omi Privé; 626-331-4533; omiprive.com

The Fuli Gemstones

mine in China is set to become fully operational later this year. Expect to see more of the applegreen gem.

economy starts to go down, gemstones, diamonds, gold, and silver have all been used as a means of wealth preservation.”

Across the shows, the consensus seemed to be that even though prices on gem materials have soared by at least 20 to 30% across the board, demand for top-quality stones remains firm.

“The general economy’s concerning worldwide, but my experience is that when you get these stones that are one of a kind…they don’t really go down,” said sapphire dealer John Bachman. He gestured to two fine-quality star sapphires in his showcase. “These days, if you had to leave your home, leave the country, and go somewhere else and you had five to 10 of these, it’s a nice way to get across the border,” he said.

“Not so much Americans, but worldwide people think that way,” he added. “All of a sudden, the economy collapses. These stones, when you get to the other end of that, they didn’t really go down in their relative value, they probably increased a little, so you’re ready to go.”

Whether they’re seen as a form of portable wealth or simply as a sparkling status symbol, top-quality gems are, by all accounts, selling.

Ring with 6.86 ct. Malaya garnet, 3.65 cts. t.w. rainbow moonstones, and 1.05 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold; $22,000;

“We’ve had a huge few months,” said Carl Larson, director of gemstones at Pala International. “We sold several six-figure stones back-to-back in November, December, and January. That normally doesn’t happen. The hottest thing is demantoid garnet from Russia, which is unfortunate because resupply is impossible at the moment. Green is hot.”

Across the GemFair and the GJX show in the tent across the street, dealers and designers affirmed Larson’s comment—with one notable exception: Emeralds seemed to cede their recent popularity to less classic green gems, including tsavorite, demantoid garnets from both Russia and Madagascar, and peridot, now available from the Fuli mine in northeast China, which is expected to be fully operational in the second half of this year.

“Demantoid garnet’s gotten really popular in the last few years,” said Richard Drucker, president emeritus of Gemworld International, at its Tucson presentation. He compared the Russian goods with the new demantoid mined by Prosperity Earth in Madagascar. “There’s no question the

Russian material is a much brighter material and has the typical horsetail inclusions, but if you’re looking for demantoid, now you have a source that’s not in a conflict zone.”

Drucker went on to discuss growing demand for what he described as “program gemstones,” such as rubies from Greenland or peridot from the Fuli mine, both available in predictable quantities and backed by sustainability measures. (One of Fuli’s main talking points is the traceability of its apple-green gems as well as its zero-carbon ambitions.)

“The common theme is responsible and sustainable,” Drucker said. “They can fulfill programs from big companies that need a consistent supply of material.”

Equally hot were stones in sunrise and sunset hues, notably the prized orangey pinkish-red spinel from the Mahenge

region of Tanzania. (“This color doesn’t come from anywhere else,” said Bindra, who offered a 12.06 ct. example for $25,000 per carat.)

Demand for Mahenge spinel— which bears a close resemblance to Pantone’s 2023 color of the year, Viva Magenta—spilled over into other similarly hued gems, including padparadscha sapphires, imperial topaz, even pink-to-lavender spinel.

Last but not least, dealers such as Kimberly Collins and Columbia Gem House’s Eric Braunwart reported brisk sales of bicolor gems, especially tourmaline. At Parlé, creative director and vice president Brecken Farnsworth said the company had recently purchased several thousand carats of watermelon tourmaline from Brazil.

London-based jeweler Stephen Webster, who was celebrating his 40th anniversary of attending the Tucson shows, remarked on how popular the gem had become. “I bought a bunch of bicolor tourmalines about six years ago because I thought the time felt right for the type of material that has a bit of nature in it,” he said. “It was just the Brazilians, and now it’s everywhere.”

“There’s stronger interest at the top of the market because people are trying to hedge against inflation.”

Dave Bindra

Origami bangle with ombré pink to blue sapphires and diamond pavé in 18k yellow gold; $30,500; Katherine Jetter; info@ katherinejetter.com; katherinejetter.com

peridot

Omi Privé

Drip Drop earrings in 14k gold with mint tourmaline, emeralds, Ethiopian opals, mint opals, and diamonds; $23,900; Mason and Books; nicole@ cnwgroupnyc.com; masonandbooks.com

Photography by Mei Tao

Earrings in 18k white gold with 2.96 cts. t.w. diamonds, $17,000, Luvente, 212-730-1003, luvente.com ; 14k white gold earrings with 1.98 cts. t.w. diamonds, $5,650, KC Designs, 212-921-9270, kcdesignsnyc.com ; choker in 18k white gold with 21.28 cts. t.w. diamonds, $45,000, Yessayan, 718-722-0060, yessayan.us

Fibonacci Marquise

18k white gold earrings with 3.26 cts. t.w. diamonds, $22,000, Mindi Mond New York, info@mindimondny. com, mindimondny. com ; Cuban V 14k white gold necklace with 6.96 cts. t.w. diamonds, $34,375, Made By Malyia, 347-258-3108, madebymalyia.com ; bracelet with 6.17 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum, $23,400, Jye’s, 415-6218880, jyescorp.com ; wide mesh bracelet in 18k white gold with 36.48 cts. t.w. diamonds, $195,000, Dilamani, 516466-6767, dilamani. com ; 18k white gold bracelet with 16.63 cts. t.w. diamonds, $82,920 Luvente 212-730-1003, luvente.com ; 14k white gold bracelet with 5.56 cts. t.w.

diamonds, $46,495, Effy, 877-275-3339, effyjewelry.com ; Two-Finger Wave ring in 14k white gold with 1.36 cts. t.w. diamonds, $5,000, Made By Malyia; 18k white gold bracelet with 3.9 cts. t.w. diamonds, $16,655 Ashi Couture, 800-622-2744, ashidiamonds.com ; jumbo Cuban link 14k white gold bracelet with 8.33 cts. t.w. diamonds, $18,990 Shy Creation, info@ shycreation.com, shycreation.com ; 18k white gold ring with 1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,750, Luvente

SPARKLE IT UP

EFFORTLESSLY ELEGANT DIAMOND JEWELS TO TAKE YOU FROM DAY TO NIGHT

Photography by Mei Tao

Sty list Daniel Edley / Jewelry e ditor Rima Suqi

14k yellow gold earrings with 3 cts. t.w. diamonds, $7,800, Kimberly Elliott for Oro Alexander, 800-782-1231, oroalexander.com ; large Ellipse 18k rose gold hoops with 0.41 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,200, Ginette NY, 954-960-3948, ginette-ny.com ; emerald-cut lariat in 18k yellow gold with 35.01 cts. t.w. diamonds, $128,000, Rahaminov Diamonds, 213-6229866, rahaminov. com ; Rock Star

Power Crystal ring in 18k yellow gold with rock crystal and 0.06 ct. diamond, $2,000, Mckenzie Liautaud, 917-204-2814, mckenzieliautaud. com ; Macaroni eternity ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.51 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,798, Adina Reyter, 818-9042900, adinareyter. com ; 18k yellow gold and oxidized silver Crownwork pinky ring with 1.43 cts. t.w. diamonds, $6,460, Ray Griffiths Fine Jewelry, 212-8100577, raygriffiths. com ; Bujukan bangle with 0.63 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k gold, $7,000, Gabriel & Co., 212-519-1400, gabrielny.com

14k white gold earrings with 13.97 cts. t.w. diamonds, $35,590

Christopher Designs, 800-955-0970, christopherdesigns. com ; 18k white gold Laurel necklace with 34.66 cts. t.w. diamonds, $180,000, Dilamani, 516466-6767, dilamani. com ; necklace with 5.58 cts. t.w.

diamonds in 14k white gold, $51,400 Effy, 877-275-3339, effyjewelry.com ; 18k white gold bracelet with 16.85 cts. t.w. diamonds, $52,455

Ashi Couture, 800-622-2744, ashidiamonds. com ; platinum ring

with 4.53 cts. t.w. diamonds, $45,500, Jye’s, 415-6218880, jyescorp.com ; bracelets in 18k white gold with 8.81 cts.–10.7 cts. t.w. diamonds, $36,500–$57,900, Luvente, 212-730-1003, luvente.com ; bangle in 18k white gold with 8.59 cts. t.w. diamonds, $38,885, Ashi Couture; ring in 14k gold with 1.91 cts. t.w. diamonds, $10,100 Effy

Thorn Pavé 14k yellow gold huggies with 0.316 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,598, Adina Reyter 818-904-2900, adinareyter.com ; Arc studs in 18k yellow gold with 1.16 cts. t.w. diamonds, $8,400, Casey Perez, sales@ caseyperezjewelry. com, caseyperez jewelry.com ; All That Is 18k yellow and white gold necklace with hand-painted black rhodium and 3.08 cts. t.w. diamonds, $52,500, Nina Runsdorf, 212-3821243, ninarunsdorf. com ; 18k yellow gold Deco Double Fan ring with 0.65

ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,059, Doves by Doron Paloma 888-66-DOVES, dovesjewelry.com ; Bailey bracelet in 14k yellow gold with 3.25 cts. t.w. diamonds, $10,600, Shy Creation info@shycreation. com, shycreation. com ; Liquid Gold 18k yellow gold bracelet with 1.44 cts. t.w. diamonds, $12,590 Ritique 212-219-3793, ritique.com ; Shattered Gold Cluster bracelet with 1.2 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $6,460 Oliver Blandi, 212-219-3793, oliverblandi.com

18k rose gold and platinum ring with 12.58 cts.

t.w. diamonds, price on request

Rahaminov

Diamonds, 213-6229866, rahaminov. com ; Floral ear cuff in 18k white gold with 12.17 cts. t.w.

diamonds, $25,000 (sold as pair), Yessayan, 718-7220060, yessayan.us ; platinum necklace with 28.8 cts. t.w.

diamonds, $122,000, Jye’s, 415-621-8880, jyescorp.com

18k white gold earrings with 4.01 cts. t.w. diamonds, $15,295 Luvente 212-730-1003, luvente.com ; platinum scarf with 274.8 cts. t.w. diamonds, $2,500,000, Saul Fraiman for Grandview Klein Diamonds, 212719-4800, gkdg.com ; platinum Dangle ring with 6.32 cts. t.w. diamonds, price on request Nina Runsdorf, 212-382-

1243, ninarunsdorf. com ; bangle with 10.77 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold, $32,500, Dabakarov, 212730-1888, dabakarov. com ; Adele ring in platinum and 18k Honey Gold with 2.12 cts. t.w. diamonds, $24,350, Le Vian, 516-4667202, levian.com ; 14k white gold ring with 1.29 cts. t.w. diamonds, $14,395, Effy, 877-275-3339, effyjewelry.com

AND ENGRAVED DESIGNS

Photography by Stephen Lewis

Prop sty list Peter Tran

Jewelry editor Rima Suqi

SILVER AGE

(L. to r.) Caviar Lux Eternity Diamond 18k gold and sterling silver ring with 0.33 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,950, Lagos, 877925-4305, lagos.com ; Carlyle ring in sterling silver and 18k yellow gold, $1,200, David Yurman, 888-3987626, davidyurman. com ; Orchid Double ring in sterling silver and black

rhodium with 2.13 cts. t.w. white and 0.92 ct. t.w. gray diamonds, $4,200, Michael Aram 646-625-7990 ext. 250, michaelaram. com ; Geo sterling silver and 24k vermeil Coil ring, $295, Coin sterling silver ring with 24k yellow gold, $495, Gurhan, 646230-1122, wholesale. gurhan.com

Decodas sterling silver earrings with 4 cts. t.w. Brazilian citrine, $600; Atomic Roses sterling silver earrings, $225; Amy C. Pyles; 610-3905835; amycpyles.com

Sterling silver and turquoise cuff by McKee Platero; price on request; Mahnaz Collection; 212717-1169; mahnaz collection.com

es Fa

shion Fil

WEARABLE —THAT WORD HAS LONG BEEN MUTTERED IN FASHION CIRCLES LIKE A BACKHANDED COMPLIMENT. (SEE ALSO: COMMERCIAL .) BUT A FUNNY THING HAPPENED ON THE WAY TO OUR POSTPANDEMIC NORM: AFTER THE INITIAL ESCAPIST REBOUND, WEARABLE HAS SUDDENLY BECOME COOL.

PERHAPS IT’S FATIGUE from the constant chase for viral catnip, where flights of fancy and high-impact spectacle rule. (Paging Kylie Jenner’s lion-head dress.) Or maybe it’s the result of crushing headline after headline—the war in Ukraine, collapsing banks, inflation. Whatever the reason, fall 2023 was pared back and understated. The collections prioritized real-life navigation and dressing women so they can—gasp—actually go about their day.

Prada, for instance, was inspired by uniforms and beauty in everyday things. Proenza Schouler sent out a terrific collection of uncomplicated clothes—no theme attached. Loewe embraced “reduction.” Designer after designer, from Brandon Maxwell and Bottega Veneta to Christian Dior and Balenciaga, put the spotlight on grown-up codes such as spare tailoring, timeless classics, and neutrals.

All of which doesn’t have to translate to plainJane boring.

Take Louis Vuitton’s camel coat—it was leather printed to look like wool. As any woman

can tell you, slipping into a simple, beautifully constructed garment can make your emotions soar. So what does this mean for the jewelry set? The most obvious cue is one of restraint, which we saw on the runways—single-strand pearl collars or huggies instead of oversize hoops. But don’t worry, there’s still plenty to celebrate. Because less surface distraction on the ready-towear leaves room for bijoux to bring color and joy to a woman’s wardrobe. In other words, let the clothes whisper and the jewelry shout. Here, we break down the major motifs from the shows.

by Venessa Lau

3

If Nancy Cunard is your patron saint, then rejoice!

Cuffing Season

5

—1—

Solanales Large Twisted cuff in 14k gold–plated brass and rhodium tone–plated brass with crystal; $395; Alexis Bittar; 888-807-7780; alexisbittar.com

—2—

Raw Organic cuffs in sterling silver, $1,470, and 14k gold–plated brass, $395; Mara Scalise; lauren@megamegaprojects.com; marascalise.com

—3—

Ares cuff in sterling silver; $2,345; Ariana Boussard-Reifel; sales@arianaboussardreifel.com; arianaboussardreifel.com

And not only because a new biography just dropped from St. Martin’s Press. The runways were awash with her style influence—namely, Cunard’s love for chunky, dramatic cuffs, best seen in the 1926 portrait by Man Ray, where her arms are piled high with a hodgepodge of bangles. So there they were at Prabal Gurung, in a mix of glorious silver textures. At Brandon Maxwell, blown up and bejeweled. At Rick Owens, sleekly futuristic. And at Andrew Gn—what else?—glamorous to the hilt (pictured).

Designers had fun with the trend, too. Bibhu Mohapatra, who namechecked the rebellious heiress as his collection’s muse and opened the show with a reading of her poem “Wheels,” sent out oversize resin versions, by Dinosaur Designs, in bright, standout colors. Off-White’s Ib Kamara, inspired by the unpaved roads of his native Sierra Leone, featured big bracelets in the shape of rubber tires. Then there were the ever-fabulous styles by Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry, which included a wide cuff that winked at the trend with a sculpted eye and another with a molded ear, complete with an onyx cabochon for the “earring.” And while we’re on this meta path, he also had a finger-long ring with a red gem for a lacquered nail—which brings us to…

—4—

Casablanca Alboran Sea bracelet in 24k gold–electroplated brass; $395; Ben-Amun; 212-944-6480; ben-amun.com

—5—

14k gold cuff with dendrite, green tourmaline in turquoise and malachite, rhodolite in carnelian, emerald in lapis, blue sapphire in labradorite and moss agate; price on request; Retrouvaí; traci@retrouvai.com; retrouvai.com

Black is the new black—and so is gray, high-shine silver, and neutrals. We saw spice tones and shots of lavender. But no color swept the runways for fall 2023 quite like rich and vibrant red. It was everywhere and, set against the prevailing sobering palette, an all the more potent statement style. Consider these crimson entrance-makers: Marni’s leather pantsuit, Bora Aksu’s frothy ruffled lace dresses, not to mention Dolce & Gabbana’s entire finale lineup (crystal-encrusted column gown, feather chubby).

What’s great about this trend is the variety. You have a treasure chest worth of stones to choose from, both semiprecious and oh-so-glamorous, as well as enamel and stained wood. Among our favorites: Giambattista Valli’s door-knocker earrings (pictured), which featured a jumbo teardrop surrounded by more gemstone finery; and La DoubleJ’s demonstrative cuffs and cocktail rings dotted with gold cabochon accents. For those who think Pantone’s color of the year, Viva Magenta, is a touch too pink or girly, scarlet is a perfect alternative. And like a bold red lip, it doesn’t take a lot to make an impact.

—1—

Balloon pink tourmaline ring in 18k yellow gold; $5,900; Rush Jewelry Design; lauren@megamegaprojects. com; rushjewelrydesign.com

Seeing Red

5

—2—

Royal Oak Selfwinding Ruby 41 mm with 45.6 cts. t.w. baguette-cut rubies in 18k white gold; price on request; Audemars Piguet; 212-758-8400; audemarspiguet.com

3

—3—

Welcome to Miami earrings with dyed jade, diamonds, resin, and plastic in 18k gold and brass; £1,900 ($2,305); Tessa Packard; info@ tessapackard.com; tessapackard.com

—4—

18k yellow gold earrings with black onyx, rock crystal, and coral paste; CHF1,750 ($1,886); Bahina; contact@bahina.com; bahina.com

—5—

Red Rock ring with blue topaz and enamel in 18k gold; $9,474; NeverNoT; info@nevernot.co.uk; nevernot.co.uk

Gold

—1—

3

—2—

Black Velvet Poppy earrings in recycled aluminum, 18k white gold, and rhodium vermeil with lab-grown pink sapphires and simulated black diamonds; $2,506; Anabela Chan; sales@ anabelachan.com; anabelachan.com

Button Up

1 2 4 5

Let’s be honest— button earrings never really went away. Still, there was something refreshing about seeing the trend surging on the fall 2023 runways. It’s no coincidence that this style—which has long been a signifier for the ladylike and polished—is growing at a time when designers are turning their attention to self-assured suiting and the classics. It’s a little ’60s by way of Jackie Kennedy, a little Working Girl ’80s.

To be sure, these styles are a wonderful way to inject glamour into daywear—like at Balmain (pictured) and Versace, which paired precision tailoring with blinding gemstone buttons. At Tove, Camille Perry and Holly Wright accessorized their minimalist outerwear and separates with quick flashes of gold: flat floral earrings, done in collaboration with Completedworks. And, of course, if ostentation is your comfort zone, there’s always Carolina Herrera’s Look No. 5: multi-pearl buttons, a pearl collar, and a neat little skirt-suit— dotted with bejeweled glitz.

—3— Earrings in gold-plated brass with rhinestones and CZ; €188 ($200); Anton Heunis; sales@antonheunis. com; antonheunis.com

—4—

Isabella earrings in 14k gold–plated brass and CZ; $320 (available Aug. 1); Yun Yun Sun; lauren@ megamegaprojects.com; yun-yun-sun.com

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Constellation Flash earrings in 18k yellow gold with onyx, colored sapphires, amethysts, tsavorite, and diamonds; $10,500; Sauer; yvonne@ sauer1941.com; sauer1941.com

Lace Heart Button clipon earrings in 14k gold plate; $145; Lele Sadoughi; sales@ lelesadoughi.com; lelesadoughi.com

—1—

In the Mood for Love

Designers are getting frisky, judging by the abundant barely-there and innerwear-asouterwear looks. There were slips, bras, lace, and corsetry galore—plus, a mountain of 200,000 red condom boxes as the backdrop to the Diesel runway. Even designers who nodded to the season’s subdued hook got playful. Case in point: Miu Miu’s Miuccia Prada, who paired simple cardigans and demure kitten heels with…nothing. No bottoms, just undies.

On the sweeter side of this amorous theme? Serious heart symbolism, as seen at Lela Rose, Antonio Marras, and Erdem (pictured), whose designer, Erdem Moralioğlu, channeled an enchanting gothic Victorian romance—complete with heart-shape earrings. Marco Rambaldi enlisted jewelry designer Priscilla Anati to create heart-shape hardware, necklaces, and dangling earrings, while Paco Rabanne’s Julien Dossena re-created Salvador Dalí’s 1949 gold, ruby, and diamond Pomegranate Heart for a stunning gold-sequin halter and skirt. (The collection was an ode to the friendship between Dalí and Rabanne.)

Lest you think this is a one-note motif, take a look at the chokers from Etro and Coperni: The former featured lovebirds kissing, and the latter—in a tech-heavy collection where robot dogs had a starring role—the heart hands emoji.

Diamond Heart curb link necklace in 14k yellow gold; $11,780; Lionheart; lauren@megamegaprojects.com; lionheartjewelry.com

—2— Labradorite Heart necklace in 18k yellow gold; $8,000; Guita M; lauren@megamegaprojects.com; guitam-jewelry.com

—3— Half Heart hoop earrings in 10k gold; $75; Royal Chain; 800-622-0960; royalchain.com

—4— Black Heart hair pin; $110; Westman Atelier x Deborah Pagani; sales@deborahpagani.com; deborahpagani.com

—5— 18k yellow gold Lucy ring with ombré sapphires; $2,400; Emily P. Wheeler; info@emilypwheeler.com; emilypwheeler.com

Elongated, stretched silhouettes—creating a strong, elegant line—were also big for fall 2023. Maxi hemlines alluringly hung low; at Rodarte, even the sleeves poetically trailed the floor. We saw that linear shape in jewelry as well, creating one of the more captivating trends of the season: the long earring. It’s a look that adds energy, no matter the style—from the delicate (Kate Spade’s candy-colored shoulder dusters) to the audacious (Andrew Gn’s decadent chandeliers). Badgley Mischka (pictured) gave us tony fringe earrings, while Ulla Johnson went bohemian with her extended semiprecious drops (plus suede fringe pumps!). Our personal favorites?

The silver offerings from Alexander McQueen, which struck myriad tones. Some featured long, graceful wisps of a flower; others, more substantial petals. Supermodel Naomi Campbell wore the boldest version, a single breathtaking orchid that hung so low it brushed against her collarbone. We’ve talked a lot about dressing for being out in the world, but we bet these swinging statement earrings will have people making a beeline for those Instagram selfies too.

Swing Time

Noho

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misahara.com

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Cascade faceted statement earrings with black onyx in 14k gold–plated brass; $575; Bounkit; 212-244-1877; bounkit.com

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XXL Nido D’Or earrings in 22k gold–plated bronze; $296; Misho; operations@mishodesigns. com; mishodesigns.com

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Whispers of Meroë Nile earrings with diamonds, morganite, and onyx in 18k yellow gold; $19,140; Matturi Fine Jewellery; info@ museshowroom.com; matturi.com

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Pavé Gemmy Gem Multi Drop Stick earrings with mixed tourmaline and diamonds in 18k gold; $15,720; Irene Neuwirth; sales@ireneneuwirth. com; ireneneuwirth.com

drop earrings in 14k yellow gold with diamonds; $9,000; Misahara; lauren@megamegaprojects.com;

HERE’S

LAS VEGAS TO

YOUR SHOPPING LIST IS SET. YOUR DAYS ARE FULL OF MEETINGS WITH VENDORS. NOW, HOW DO YOU PLAN TO RELAX AND CELEBRATE A SUCCESSFUL MARKET WEEK?

by Matt Villano

1. The Venetian Resort aka JCK home base

2, 6. Snow Monkey and Son of Harajuku cocktails at Wakuda

3, 5. Israeli chain Miznon and its popular pitas and roasted cauliflower 4. A Transfixing light installation by Christopher Bauder 7–8. Wakuda and lobstercaviar sashimi toast

9. As Above, So Below by immersive sculptor Kate Raudenbush at Transfix

THE NEXT 12 months in Las Vegas are shaping up to be the most exciting in this city’s history—a bold statement, considering the place has existed for nearly 120 years and is widely regarded as the entertainment capital of the world.

The annual Luxury and JCK shows, returning to The Venetian Resort, are of course one of the high points. Also on the “It” list: the opening of MSG Sphere, a music and entertainment venue at The Venetian, in September; The Formula One Las Vegas Grand Prix in November; completion of the Fontainebleau resort late this year; and the Super Bowl in February 2024. Between now and the opening kickoff of Super Bowl LVIII, there’s plenty of time to celebrate everything that makes Sin City special right now—iconic musical acts, intimate and immersive theater, epic lounges, world-class restaurants, one-ofa-kind diversions, and some of the coolest museums anywhere in the American West.

NEW AND OLD FAVORITES AT VENETIAN/PALAZZO

Together, The Venetian and The Palazzo at The Venetian compose one of the largest casino resorts on the Las Vegas Strip. As the host venue for JCK, the complex always seems to be reinventing itself with new and exciting amenities. That means an endless stream of fresh experiences for show attendees.

Notable additions since last year’s show include two restaurants and a new bar that hits the spot. The first of the restaurants, Wakuda, is a Japanese wonderland. The main dining room offers all the usual suspects: sushi, sashimi,

2, 6: LOUIEE VICTA; 4: CHRISTOPHER BAUDER & KINK–AXION, PHOTO BY RALPH LARMANN, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND TRANSFIX;

5: MAX FLATOW;

9: KATE RAUDENBUSH’S AS ABOVE, SO BELOW,COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND TRANSFIX

robata, and more. The Omakase Room—the only one of its kind in Las Vegas—features a totally custom experience, complete with a mixologist who makes drinks to order and a menu with highly seasonal ingredients, including live crustaceans, Japanese wagyu beef, sashimi, and an exclusive sake or wine pairing. Perhaps the best part: The room seats six, which means it’s ultra-exclusive. (At press time, several reservations were still available for the duration of the JCK show.)

The other restaurant couldn’t be more different. While meals at Wakuda are multicourse events that often last two or three hours, food at Miznon, the first Las Vegas outpost of the Israeli restaurant chain, is designed to be consumed quickly and on the go. The restaurant offers glorified counter service, cranking out freshly made pita sandwiches, hummus, falafels, and other Mediterranean goodies from noon to 8 p.m. every day. The house specialty is a baked potato smashed into a giant paper-thin pancake and served with salt and sour cream. It sounds basic, but it’s delicious. If you get nothing else, try this (be sure to go hungry).

Wherever you end up eating on property, spend 90 minutes after dinner throwing darts at Flight Club, a new bar/attraction that took off earlier this year on the Palazzo side of the Grand Canal Shoppes. Think of this place as a Topgolf-style diversion, only with darts. Guests book time at private dartboards called oches (that’s pronounced ock-eys ) and can play a series of preprogrammed games during the allotted time. Each oche has full food and drink service. The stalls are equipped with all sorts of cameras to record you taking a victory lap when you beat your friends.

BIG DOINGS ON THE STRIP

The Venetian/Palazzo isn’t the only Strip spot with novel attractions; in Las Vegas, new stuff pops up all the time.

Take Proper Eats food hall inside Aria Las Vegas. In the vein of Block 16 at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas and Famous Foods Street Eats at Resorts World Las Vegas, Aria’s upscale food court features Laughing Buddha Ramen, Seoul Bird Korean Street Food, Shalom Y’all Mediterranean, Pizzaoki (pizza from Steve Aoki), Wexler’s Deli, Egghead egg sandwiches, Temaki Bar sushi, and Easy Donuts, a donut shop with a speakeasy cocktail lounge in the back. Easy’s, the cocktail bar, offers impeccable libations from expert mixologists every night as well as live entertainment on weekends.

To the south, in the same strip mall as M&M’s World, BrewDog brewery is home to what is now the largest open-air rooftop deck in the entire city. Enjoy spectacular views up and down the Las Vegas Strip as you sip on some of this Scottish brewery’s sweet-tasting ales and latest concoctions. BrewDog also happens to be a great spot for brunch—the loaded french fries are quite a meal.

To the north, an immersive art experience at Resorts World is turning heads for its variety and creativity. Transfix opened in April and will run through October. Brought to you by experiential entrepreneurs Michael Blatter and Tom Stinchfield, Transfix has an unmistakable Burning Man vibe. The attraction invites participants to embark on their own 90- to 120-minute journey through a four-acre labyrinth. Featured throughout the venue are more than 50 monolithic, kinetic, and illuminated (even fire-breathing) works by international artists.

For the dog-lovers among us, Sgt. Puppa, inside the Fashion Show Las Vegas shopping mall, is an upscale doggie heaven, chockablock with pet accessories, clothes, and other paraphernalia. The brand is the brainchild of entrepreneur Eloise Monaghan, creator of global luxury lingerie label Honey Birdette, which sold to Playboy for $333 million in 2021.

10, 13. The Carousel Bar and dartboards at Flight Club 11. The main attraction at Easy Donuts 12. Pablo González Vargas’ Ilumina at Transfix 14. Producerturned-collector Bryan Ray Turcotte at the Punk Rock Museum 15. A paws-ome guest at the Sgt. Puppa opening 16. A cozy seating spot at The Beverly 17. BrewDog, the open-air craft-brew haven 18. Marco Cochrane’s sculpture R-Evolution at Transfix

Judging from the lines at the store in its first month, Sgt. Puppa has tapped into a gold mine.

EXCITEMENT AROUND TOWN

Elsewhere in Las Vegas, excitement is building over a new eatery, a new theater, and new interactive performance experiences that are available to everyone. The theater, dubbed The Beverly, opened downtown in early March and today is Vegas’ only indie film house. The two-story theater’s three-part mission is to host independent film, readings, and music. In addition to the main theater and courtyard, the venue’s open-air jazz terrace is the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine on a warm summer night. The terrace also is home to acts you likely won’t see anywhere else in town.

Cheapshot is a different kind of performing arts venue. Located on Fremont Street East, the spot is a mashup of dive bar and vaudeville lounge. Every night a different slate of entertainers takes to the stage to perform various feats of derring-do: sword-swallowing, comedy, and more. You’d have to visit multiple times a month to see the same act twice; that translates into great variety for nothing more than a cover charge and average drink prices.

Rounding out the newest entertainment options, the Punk Rock Museum opened March 10. This museum, located between the Strat Hotel and the Arts District on the east side of Interstate 15, boasts what it bills as the world’s most expansive, inclusive, and intimate display of artifacts, fliers, photos, clothing, instruments, handwritten lyrics, and artwork donated by some of the most legendary punk rock bands of our time. One of the best parts of the museum is a guitar room, where guests can play the actual guitars and basses through the same amps the artists used. The collection includes guitars and amps from Rise Against, NOFX, Pennywise, Sick of It All, Strung Out, and many more. As Las Vegas continues to rebound from the dip in tourism caused by the pandemic, it’s nice to know we visitors can rock on.

LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS…BUT MAKE IT FASHION! THESE CHUNKY COCKTAIL RINGS, BANGIN’ BANGLES, AND STATEMENT EARRINGS WILL ZHUZH UP ANY JEWELRY BOX.

by Melissa Rose Bernardo

/ 14k yellow gold ring with 1 ct. lab-grown diamond; $3,754; stuller.com 2 / Ring with trillion-cut lab-grown simulated canary and white diamonds in 18k gold and rhodium vermeil; $2,235; anabelachan.com 3 / 0.25 ct. t.w. round Caydia lab-grown diamond Ouro double-halo statement ring in 14k yellow gold; $749; charlesandcolvard.com 4 / Snake Haute Couture ring in 14k gold with 2 ct. lab-grown diamond; $6,575; smilingrocks.com

1

1 / Bombé Pavé-Set Octo Stud large hoop earrings with 1.54 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 18k Fairmined yellow gold; $16,500; aetherdiamonds.com 2 / Double Drop earrings with 2 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 14k white gold; $2,200; lightboxjewelry.com 3 / Chelsea hoops with 2 cts. t.w. hand-set lab-grown diamonds in 18k white gold; $5,400; jeandousset.com

4 / Frame collection earrings with 2 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 14k gold; $4,325; smilingrocks.com 5 / 8.625 cts. t.w. emerald Caydia lab-grown diamond couture geometric drop earrings in 14k white gold; $7,899; charlesandcolvard.com

(Opposite) Owner Carol Ferguson took a hands-on approach to Element 79’s renovation; (this page) the finished product.

ASHARPER IMAGE

YES, EVEN LUXURY JEWELERS NEED AN OCCASIONAL FACE-LIFT

by Amy Elliott

HOW EFFECTIVE IS your branding? Is it engaging your customers? Are you well-positioned in the marketplace? These are questions that even the smallest luxury jewelry retailers should be asking themselves every five years or so.

“A brand is something that should drive value for your business,” says Ben Smithee, CEO of The Smithee Group, a digital growth agency in New York City. “Rarely is it a static, forever type of thing, even for the biggest and most well-known businesses.”

But how do you know when it’s time to hit “refresh”? The signs can come from anywhere: Your sales numbers are down, which could mean you’re not connecting with your target audience. Your store has changed ownership, and you want your branding to reflect a new vision. There is no clear, consistent aesthetic linking your website, packaging, and social channels. You can’t describe your brand in a couple of sentences, or in a way that doesn’t describe 20 other businesses in your area. When

you communicate your brand, you share facts like your history and services rather than the emotional response you want to evoke.

A full store renovation or image overhaul isn’t always the answer. When you look critically at your in-store experience and your visual identity (your website’s homepage, logo, and typefaces), you’ll likely discover that refreshing just a few consumer touchpoints—a glow-up, if you will—can help you stay current and convey a cohesive brand story.

“Even if the updates are minimal, it brings new life to your brand,” Smithee says.

First things first: Before embarking on any rebranding effort, you must understand your audience and your goals, says Liz Kantner, a North Carolina–based marketing consultant specializing in the jewelry industry.

Start by identifying weaknesses and defining your priorities. Kantner says weekly meetings that focus specifically on your business’s marketing objectives will force you to “think about your brand and make sure you’re sharing your story effectively.”

Let’s unpack what actions you might take—and how your store stands to benefit.

VISUAL IDENTITY

A variety of touchpoints constitute your visual identity—how you are perceived by consumers—and you’ll need to prioritize quite a few of them in order to make the most of your branding glow-up.

What arrows will you need in your quiver? It’s often a strategic combination of a new logo, palette, website redesign, typography, and email templates. The cost varies widely—anywhere from $5,000 to $35,000—depending on whether you hire an agency to

oversee the entire project or partner with individual creatives. Having a compelling visual identity that’s consistent reinforces the idea that customers are buying a beautiful, high-quality product. “It also increases desire,” says Kate Baxter, a London-based jewelry brand consultant who runs GoldDust, an online series of master classes focused on brand development. Pick a palette that will resonate with your current and/or target customer. “Always have your customer at the forefront of your mind when embarking on a redesign. What would they like?” says Baxter.

A customized font and logo can be a way to stand out from competitors. “You can even use it as a hallmark on your pieces or a watermark on your printed materials,” Baxter says.

Updated signage might be your most powerful tactic. It was for Caroline Nalle; she and her husband and co-owner, John Quillinan,

Mureta & Co. updated its exterior, eschewing its Antiques storefront; inside, streamlined displays replaced cluttered cases.

“We’re definitely attracting younger clients who are intrigued by the space.”

—Caroline Nalle, Mureta & Co.

recently acquired and renovated Mureta & Co., an antique and estate jewelry business in the Fillmore District of San Francisco.

“We’re definitely attracting younger clients who are intrigued by the space,” she says. “The old store didn’t have any branded signage, so there are so many people who are noticing our store for the first time, even those who have lived in the neighborhood for years and have probably walked by hundreds of times.”

INTERIORS

A brand refresh or relaunch often goes hand in hand with a renovation or aesthetic rejiggering of your store’s interiors. This approach made sense for Austin, Texas–based retailer and designer Elizabeth Gibson of Eliza Page.

“We’re coming up on our 20th year in business, and we wanted the store to better reflect the way our brand and jewelry selection has evolved,” Gibson says. That translated to creating “a better working space for our team, with more upscale finishes, new floor cases, and new displays,” along with a dedicated ear-piercing room.

Similarly, in the case of Carter’s Jewelry in Petal, Miss., the store’s environment did not align with the company’s growth strategy. The solution was to expand the space to feature a new

Diamond Suite to accommodate customers shopping for engagement rings and bands or working on custom design projects. That way, the store’s bridal and color/fashion assortments could exist as two separate—but complementary—shopping environments.

“The Diamond Suite is all-white, with a marble floor, high ceilings, bright white lighting, cool geode handmade art features, and a high-top ‘band bar’ for stacking rings,” says owner Chae Carter. “It’s a vibe when you’re in there. There are more hangout spots, and we’re popping Champagne all day long—the space makes people want to celebrate.”

MESSAGING

Beyond the visuals, consider the voice you use when communicating with your audience. That means everything from product descriptions to printed and store collateral to website and social media copy.

“We wanted the store to better reflect the way our brand and jewelry selection has evolved.”

—Elizabeth Gibson, Eliza Page

The refresh at Eliza Page made an already sleek store (above) even more upscale and glam.

These elements comprise “brand story and voice—the foundations on which everything else in a brand is built,” says Siobhan Maher, founder of Authology, a U.K.–based “storytelling studio” for jewelry brands. “Without these foundations, branding is superficial.”

For example, Element 79 Contemporary Jewelry, a retailer in Denver, underwent a rebrand in 2020, changing its name from Signet Jewelry Boutique, and has been working to maintain cohesive messaging ever since—especially after moving into a new space last year. “It’s an elegant place, but the biggest thing with our brand is that we want people to feel comfortable and welcome here,” says owner Carol Ferguson.

“We try to make the experience fun for our customer and use words like play, explore, no pressure, of course, my pleasure, just because,” says Ferguson’s business partner, Christine Mulcahy, who manages Element 79’s social media, email blasts, website, and print ads to ensure that the

language they use is cohesive across all platforms. “I would say our voice is casual yet elegant, lighthearted, and fun.”

The store developed a social media campaign around the concept of “just because” for its recent anniversary sale (the copy read, “Just because you’ve loved us for 6 years”) and offered limited-time discounts. “We included a photo of everyone who works here,” Mulcahy says. “Having photos of people really helps convey the value we place on customer service.”

ROI, REVEALED

Yes, a rebrand is a major financial investment and time commitment. You should allow three to six months for a glowup or up to a year for a full rebranding initiative, from concept to completion—even longer if you’re thinking about a store renovation. Though the full effect of your efforts may not reveal itself right away, “it will pay off if your focus is moving your brand forward and in closer alignment with your ideal audience and goals,” Kantner says.

Since Mureta & Co.’s rebrand and renovation, Nalle reports that “the types of purchases that are being made have vastly improved, and our average sale has doubled.”

And never underestimate the benefits of a fresh start. Since relaunching her company and opening the Diamond Suite space, Carter says the whole rebranding exercise was “rejuvenating and invigorating.

“To reinvent your company, your brand, yourself, the way you do business—it’s exciting,” she says. “If you’re going to do it, embrace it. Be open-minded and let it take you somewhere different.”

“It’s an elegant place, but the biggest thing is we want people to feel comfortable and welcome here.”

—Carol Ferguson, Element 79

In 2020, the store formerly known as Signet Jewelry Boutique became Element 79. In 2022, it moved to a new (and larger) location.

The new Element 79 includes an increasingly common feature in luxury jewelry stores: a bar.

WHEN YOU’RE PLOTTING YOUR 2023 JCK SHOW AGENDA, KEEP ALL THESE EXPERIENCES, KEYNOTES, AND TOPICS IN MIND. PLUS: 23 NEW JEWELS FROM YOUR FAVORITE (AND SOON-TOBE-FAVORITE) EXHIBITORS.

by Victoria Gomelsky

(NEW THINGS) AND YOU

TO MAKE THE most of your time at JCK Las Vegas, you’ve got to mix things up. Sure, abide by your rituals (say, breakfast at The Venetian’s Grand Lux Café followed by a cruise through the Design Collective), but don’t forget to embrace all that’s new. Here, we offer suggestions for events, products, and conversations—at both JCK and Luxury—not to be missed.

(Clockwise from far l., opposite page) Platinum pendant with 9.21 ct. pearshape moonstone, 1.12 ct. t.w. round demantoid garnets, and 0.28 ct. t.w. round diamonds, $20,000, omiprive. com ; bracelet in 18k white gold with 2.12 cts. t.w. diamonds, $12,800, en.robertobravo.

com ; ring with 9.22 ct. fancy intense yellow diamond and 1.24 cts. t.w. Cadillaccut diamonds in platinum and 18k yellow gold, $764,040, joshuaj. com ; earrings with diamonds and 3.11 cts. t.w. blue sapphires in platinum, $24,000, pomposjewelry.

com ; 15.75-inch choker with 7.75 cts. t.w. bezelset diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $26,199 facetbarcelona. com ; ring with 4.47 ct. sky blue topaz, 1.96 ct. t.w. London blue topaz, and 0.17 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $2,363, dovesjewelry.com

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In keeping with the show’s focus on innovation, the Innovation Hub, introduced in 2022, is bigger and better this year. Located on Level 2 (Booth 19141), the hub is your go-to spot to learn all that’s new in the jewelry industry and in retail in general. The area will once again feature the Showcase Stage, home to all the JCK Talks educational sessions, but it’s expanding to accommodate the all-new Social Stage, a content creation and demo area with cutting-edge technology vendors showcasing their products, and companies exhibiting in the Retail Innovation zone.

2 Calling all social strategists. Think of the new Social Stage as a mini university on the show floor dedicated to helping you understand the dynamics of brand building and engagement online. The area will play host to influencers dishing out tips on how to create compelling social content and have it seen by as many people as possible. Visit JCK2023. com/socialstage to see the full lineup of discussions and the influencers leading the charge.

3 The Retail Innovation zone is moving up—from its historic home on Level 1 to the Innovation Hub on Level 2. The area will feature five exhibitors—such as Reshyne, a cloud-based software provider dedicated to helping retailers manage repairs—that focus on the future of

strategy and technology in the retail space. Check out JCK2023.com/ innovationhub for more information.

4 Remember when De Beers introduced Lightbox, its headline-making lab-grown jewelry brand, at JCK Las Vegas in 2018? Organizers are keen to replicate the excitement surrounding that launch at this year’s show through the new Breaking News track, a dedicated offering of sessions taking place on the Showcase Stage at noon Friday, June 2, through Sunday, June 4. For all the news that’s fit to print, tweet, story, and TikTok!

5 Also new at the Showcase Stage from Friday, June 2, through Sunday, June 4: tracks on Hot Topics (10 a.m.) and Retail Experiences (4 p.m.). Also look to the Showcase Stage to see dedicated tracks on Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (2 p.m.) and Sustainability (3 p.m.). That’s not all: Last year’s Trends, Marketing, and Innovation tracks are back, at 11 a.m., 1 p.m., and 5 p.m., respectively. Find the full events schedule at JCK2023.com/ eventschedule

6 On Wednesday, May 31, at 8 a.m., in the Palazzo Ballroom (Level 5), Rudy Ruettiger, the Notre Dame football player whose life and career were the inspiration for the 1993 tear-jerker Rudy—“I’ve been ready for this my whole life!”—will deliver

(Clockwise from bottom) 18k white gold and blue rhodium sapphire and diamond hinged bangle, $9,610, nigaam. com ; 14k white gold necklace with 7.11 ct. pear-shape aquamarine and 0.85 ct. t.w. full-cut

diamonds, $11,385 artistrylimited.com ; Caged Black Jade ring in recycled 18k yellow gold and 0.13 ct. t.w. melee diamonds, $5,865 rachelweld. com ; gold Feathers dangle earrings, $1,450, johnatencio. com ; Halo ring with diamond band, starting at $15,000, diamond cocktail ring with French-cut pavé setting, $7,000, heartsonfire.com

Luxury’s opening keynote (open to Luxury retailers and exhibitors only). Be prepared for him to exhort the crowd with his motto “Dream Big, Never Quit.”

7 A three-time Olympic gymnast, an Olympic gold medalist, and the first Black U.S. gymnast to ever qualify and compete in an Olympic Games, Dominique Dawes will address the Luxury crowd on Thursday, June 1, at 8 a.m. in the Palazzo Ballroom on Level 5. From the importance of embracing a team mentality to how to use failure as fuel, “Awesome Dawesome” will share motivational tips sure to engage and inspire.

8 JCK Rocks returns to its familiar Sunday-evening time frame, though this year it shares the Palazzo Ballroom with the Jewelers for Children mixer, which runs 6–9 p.m. Come for the networking and stay for the headliner, Andy Grammer (“Honey, I’m Good”), scheduled to perform after JFC wraps up.

9 Set your alarms! From 8 to 9 a.m. on Saturday, June 3, in the Palazzo Ballroom on Level 5 of The Venetian, Johnny Cupcakes (aka Johnny Earle), founder of the world’s first T-shirt bakery, will deliver a JCK keynote address titled “Creating Customer Obsession and Memorable Experiences With Limited Resources.” Showgoers who

heard Earle at Luxury in 2019 will recall his invigorating presentation, filled with clever and offbeat ideas for driving traffic and sales.

10

Luxury veterans, a familiar name returns to the show this year: Hearts On Fire is bringing the heat with a bold new bridal collection that plays to the emotions of love—passion, intoxication, nuance, and complexity—“with a fresh, current sensibility and timeless appeal,” according to a spokesperson. “The designs are focused on enhancing and elevating the brilliance of the Hearts On Fire diamond, reflective of the individuals’ inner sparkling spirit.” We do!

11 Get ready for JCK Pro 2.0

Those who join the benefits program prior to the show (for $199; $249 at show) will be eligible for a badge upgrade that provides access to an on-site lounge, dedicated registration area, dedicated business center, reserved seating area for JCK Rocks, a lunch voucher, and, best of all, bonus trend content year-round. For more info, visit JCK2023.com/ discoverpro

12

After the queue to register for last year’s show curled down the corridor into The Venetian, show organizers learned their lesson about registration. In addition to the Level 2 registration area, attendees will be able to get their badges on Level 1 as well.

(Clockwise from bottom) Regina couture ring in 18k orange apricot gold with red tourmaline, price on request annamariacammilli. com ; Two-Sun hanging earrings with 0.49 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $2,880, djula.fr ; necklace with 6.98 ct. pink tourmaline, 0.41 ct. t.w. baguette diamonds, and 1.5 cts. t.w. round diamonds in 18k white gold, $25,319 yaeldesigns.com ; 18k white gold ring with blue sapphires and diamonds, $7,100 gyanjaipur. com ; bangle in 18k yellow gold with 2.6 cts. t.w. emeralds and 1.59 cts. t.w. diamonds, $17,084, sofragem.com

13

Can’t figure out where to grab lunch or dinner? Don’t miss delicious new restaurants at The Venetian, including Wakuda (highend Japanese) and Miznon (graband-go Israeli). And for more bar, restaurant, and recreation ideas, check out our “Here’s to Las Vegas” feature on page 150.

14 Gyan Jaipur, a fine jeweler based in India’s legendary Pink City, is making its JCK debut in the American Pavilion under the banner of its parent company, Gem Plaza. Look for top-quality colored stones— from the classic to the offbeat—in contemporary settings that leverage the Dhaddha family’s generational history in the gem and jewelry business. Be sure to ask about the Gyan Museum, a 10,000-square-foot space located adjacent to the showroom in Jaipur dedicated to displaying patriarch Gyan Chand Dhaddha’s eclectic collectibles (“treasure trove” does not begin to do it justice!).

the jewelry market (gender fluidity, post-pandemic consumer behaviors, omnichannel retail, and sustainability, to name a few), and a survey of more than 2,000 men and women ages 25–60 aimed at understanding how consumers engage with jewelry. Marketing director Michael O’Connor will share the key findings on the Showcase Stage on Sunday, June 4, at 11 a.m., but showgoers are encouraged to visit a Plumb Club member to receive a copy of the full survey.

16 Retailers face a perennial challenge when it comes to hiring. To help provide solutions, JCK is creating a dedicated area at the entrance to the show floor on Level 2 called the Career Zone. Equipped with screens that will showcase open job positions, the zone will host a networking event on Sunday, June 4, at 2 p.m. to help connect people looking for work with potential employers.

17

To mark its 40th anniversary, the Plumb Club’s 51 member companies are making good on their mission to educate retailers and help them do better business by releasing the findings of a comprehensive research study they conducted this year with the assistance of trend-spotter Paola De Luca (aka The Futurist) and Qualtrics, a survey and analytics firm. The study consists of two parts: a look at emerging phenomena influencing

15

The Design Collective is getting a glow-up. To fete the area’s new look and feel, stop by on Friday, June 2, at 2 p.m. to “Meet the Designers” in the DC lounge. And at 3:30 on Friday, we’ll be toasting the winners of this year’s Jewelers’ Choice Awards (see them all on page 176).

18

Check out the Jewelry Loupe Project in this year’s Design Collective on Level 2 (at the Women’s Jewelry Association Booth 10043). A jewelry business development

(Clockwise from bottom) Stella hidden halo threestone engagement ring with 0.33 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k rose gold, $3,410 (without center stone), kirkkara. com ; earrings in 14k yellow gold with madeira citrine, London blue topaz, and diamonds, $2,475, ralf-mezger. com/en ; hinged bangle with 4.53 cts. t.w. Asscher-cut diamonds in 18k rose gold, $17,000 normansilverman. com ; 14k gold necklace with 1.27

program for emerging designers administered by WJA and supported by De Beers Group, the initiative, which this year spotlights six emerging designers, provides access to experienced industry professionals who can help newcomers—particularly BIPOC, LGBTQIA+, people with disabilities, and those from diverse backgrounds—design and introduce their first collection, and develop marketing strategies and business acumen to become seasoned professionals in their own right.

ct. aquamarine and 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,750, justjules.com ; 14k yellow gold princess-cut and pear-shape London blue topaz earrings with diamonds, $730, oliviabjewelry. com ; 14k gold and 0.5 ct. t.w. diamond triple flower ring, $2,100, kcdesignsnyc.com

selling, and marketing jewelry and timepieces for people with disabilities. Expect to hear about topics such as adaptive jewelry, best practices for hiring people with disabilities, and how a simple mindset shift can help shape your business and its DE&I strategy.

21

The Natural Diamond Council is once again teaming up with red-carpet jeweler Lorraine Schwartz to present the 2023 class of designers participating in the Emerging Designers Diamond Initiative. From May 31 to June 5, look for all six designers—Amina Sorel Fine Jewelry by Amina Sorel, Bernard James Jewelry by Bernard James, Gwen Beloti Collection by Gwen Beloti, Jevela by Jessenia Landrum, Rosario Navia, and Metal x Wire by Symoné Currie—at the Luxury show.

19

If you didn’t make it to the VicenzaOro fair in Italy this year, the JCK show is bringing Italy to you. In the new Italia section (formerly Bella Italia), discover some 100 Italian jewelry brands, from industry stalwarts Giovanni Ferraris, K di Kuore, and Sanalitro to newcomers whose jewelry embodies a uniquely Italian blend of tradition and technology.

22

Think of the Gems pavilion at JCK as a mini-Tucson in the Nevada desert. The AGTA section—home to such names as B&B Fine Gems, Evan Caplan, and Kimberly Collins—is bigger and better than ever, with more than 125 brands displaying their endlessly colorful wares. Remember: Gems opens Thursday, June 1, one day before JCK.

20

The Women’s Jewelry Association (WJA) is dedicating its annual JCK breakfast— on Friday, June 2, at 8 a.m. in the San Polo Ballroom on Level 3 of The Venetian—to an important but oft-overlooked topic: designing,

23

And how’s this for newness?

More than 250 brands are making their JCK and Luxury debuts this year. There’s no way you (or anyone!) can visit them all, so you’ll just have to return in 2024, won’t you?

jewelers’ awards choice the Winners

223

THIS YEAR’S TOP VOTEGETTERS? GREEN AND BLUE COLORED STONES, EDGY YELLOW GOLD, AND BIG LAB-GROWN DIAMOND DESIGNS. AND CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR GRAND-PRIZE WINNER, TARIQ RIAZ, FOR HIS ROSE GOLD AND DIAMOND RING, NAMED FOR A 260-YEAROLD HISTORIC MUSEUM AND LANDMARK IN ABU DHABI.

Jewelers’ Choice Awards

$2,500 & UNDER

Garden Party prasiolite and diamond cocktail ring; $2,490 ; brilliantearth.com

$2,501–$5,000

Ring with 2.32 ct. Brazilian watermelon tourmaline and 0.25 ct. t.w. round brilliant diamonds in recycled 14k gold; $3,995 ; parlegems.com

$5,001–$10,000

Qasr Al Hosn ring in 18k rose gold with 2.84 cts. t.w. diamonds and AbrazoFIT adjustable fit technology; $9,900 ; tariqriaz.com

OVER $10,000

Pink Poppy ring with 3.57 ct. brilliant-cut pink sapphire, 1.84 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds, and 0.65 ct. t.w. pear-shape emeralds in 20k rose and 22k yellow gold; $61,450 ; susangordon.com

GRAND PRIZE

$500 & UNDER

White sapphire crisscross ring in sterling silver; $255 ; gabrielny.com

BEST RING SILVER JEWELRY

OVER $500

Shade textured bangle with rosecut rainbow moonstones in sterling silver; $805 ; info@jorgerevilla.com

$2,500 & UNDER

Diamond tennis and paper-clip link bracelet in 14k yellow gold; $1,980 ; shycreation.com

$2,501–$10,000

Bracelet with 3.65 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, 3.06 cts. t.w. green garnets, and 1.02 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $9,500; shulany.com

OVER $10,000

Bracelet with 24.29 cts. t.w. pearshape diamonds in 18k white gold; $120,000; rahaminov.com

BEST BRACELET

Aerial Twisted Dewdrop bangle with pear- and marquise-shape diamonds in 18k white gold; $25,000; heartsonfire.com

$500 & UNDER

Lab-grown cushion-cut green sapphire and simulated diamond ring in sterling silver bonded with platinum; $350; lafonn.com

Borealis pendant with 1.8 ct. kiteshape Swiss blue topaz and 0.03 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $708; yaeldesigns.com

$501–$1,000

Pendant with 0.19 ct. t.w. pavé-set diamonds and yellow gold rope accent; $895; shycreation.com

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice winner

Influencers’ Choice winner

Editors’ Choice winner

GENDERNEUTRAL

’70s-inspired earrings with 42.6 cts. t.w. Indonesian opalized wood and 15.1 cts. t.w. bright apple-green chrysoprase in recycled 14k gold; $6,995 ; parlegems.com

ALL PRICE POINTS

Carol chain bracelet with diamond lobster claw in 24k gold and oxidized sterling silver; $2,420 ; likabehar.com

$10,000

& UNDER

Bujukan circle huggies with 1 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white and yellow gold; $3,250 ; gabrielny.com

$10,001–$50,000

Rock & Roll Princess earrings with 4.7 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum; $14,900 ; marisaperry.com

One-of-a-kind art deco–inspired earrings with 11.05 cts. t.w. oval Ceylon yellow sapphires, 1.58 cts. t.w. baguette diamonds, 0.08 ct. t.w. round diamonds, and 0.84 ct. t.w. melee in 18k white and yellow gold; $87,000 ; yaeldesigns.com

OVER $50,000

Earrings in green enamel frame with 11.71 cts. t.w. marquise diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $500,000 ; normansilverman.com

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice winner

Influencers’ Choice winner

Editors’ Choice winner

PERSONALIZED JEWELRY

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice winner

ALL PRICE POINTS

Medallion necklace with 0.28 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold with hollow paper-clip chain; $2,200 ; gabrielny.com

$5,001–$10,000

Necklace with 1.3 ct. bezel-set rubellite tourmaline, 3.7 ct. mother-of-pearl, and 0.72 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold; $7,419 ; yaeldesigns.com

$5,000

& UNDER

Necklace with 0.15 ct. t.w. diamonds and diamond-cut texture leaf in 14k gold; $2,225; gabrielny.com

OVER

$10,000

Necklace with 19.82 cts. t.w. Montana sapphires and 3.21 cts. t.w. marquise diamonds in recycled 18k gold; $61,145; parlegems.com

BEST NECKLACE

Editors’ Choice winner

Riviera football necklace with horizontally set marquise diamonds; $52,000 ; marisaperry.com

Influencers’ Choice winner

$2,500 & UNDER

Intrepid ring with black sapphire inlay in brushed and goldplated tungsten carbide; $580 ; thorstenrings.com

Jewelers’ Choice Awards

MEN’S JEWELRY

OVER $2,500

Cufflinks with 2.31 cts. t.w. oval cat’seye alexandrite, 1.37 cts. t.w. round alexandrite, and 0.2 ct. t.w. round diamonds in black rhodium platinum; $30,000 ; omiprive.com

$2,500 & UNDER

Pear-shape bypass engagement ring with 0.29 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $2,000 (without center stone); gabrielny.com

Spider brooch with 5.88 ct. Mexican fire opal and black diamonds in recycled 14k gold; $4,395; parlegems.com

$2,501–$10,000

Amaranta diamond engagement ring with pear-shape diamond accents; $7,150 ; brilliantearth.com

Influencers’ Choice winner

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice winner

OVER $10,000

Ring with 3.11 ct. cushion cobalt blue spinel, 0.06 ct. t.w. round hauyne, 0.4 ct. t.w. round Paraiba tourmaline, and 0.22 ct. t.w. round diamonds in platinum; $50,000 ; omiprive.com

Editors’ Choice winner

Sunflower ring with 2.62 ct. Montana sapphire and 0.78 ct. t.w. marquise-cut diamonds in recycled 18k yellow gold; $11,245; parlegems.com

BEST STATEMENT PIECE

$10,000–$50,000

Dawn of Spring necklace with opals, sapphires, and diamonds in 18k white gold; $32,600 ; ckcjewellers.com

$50,000–$100,000

Harriet bracelet with 384 round brilliant and briolette diamonds in platinum; $74,000 ; marisaperry.com

OVER $100,000

Ribbon necklace with 62.08 cts. t.w. oval-, heart-, and pear-shape rose-cut diamonds in 18k white gold; $130,000 (sold as a set with rose-cut diamond earrings, not pictured); neongems.com

ALL PRICE POINTS

Two of Hearts ring with 3.07 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k two-tone gold; $9,340 ; neongems.com

Y necklace with 33.83 cts. t.w. emerald-cut diamonds and 10.03 ct. pear-shape diamond in platinum; $1,150,000 ; rahaminov.com

Ring with 3.63 ct. fancy greenish-blue radiant-cut diamond, 0.77 ct. t.w. trapezoid-cut diamonds, and 0.14 ct. t.w. natural fancy pink diamond melee in platinum and 18k rose gold; price on request ; rahaminov.com

$2,500 & UNDER

Shades of Blue necklace with larimar, sky blue topaz, teal topaz, baby blue topaz, and white freshwater pearls in sterling silver and 22k gold vermeil; $777; michoujewelry.com

$2,501–$5,000

Rainbow dangle earrings with diamonds, London blue topaz, tsavorite garnets, amethysts, pink tourmaline, citrine, yellow sapphires, and Mozambique garnets in 14k yellow gold; $3,715; stuller.com

OVER $10,000

Emerald-cut green tourmaline ring with diamonds in 18k white gold; $31,645; uneekjewelry.com

COLORED STONE JEWELRY

$5,001–$10,000

Earrings with 3.4 cts. t.w. Brazilian watermelon tourmaline, 2.38 cts. t.w. lotus garnets, and 3.53 cts. t.w. green tourmaline in recycled 14k gold; $8,645; parlegems.com

Hand-fabricated ring with rough Colombian emerald slice and white full-cut diamonds in 14k gold; $5,250 ; justjules.com

DIAMOND JEWELRY

$10,000 & UNDER

Linear station earrings with 0.55 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $2,025; gabrielny.com

OVER $10,000

Diamond-cut 14k yellow gold necklace with 1.15 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds; $10,900 ; gabrielny.com

44 Editors’ Choice winner

OVER $500

Multi-Row ring in 14k yellow gold; $1,175; gabrielny.com

$500 & UNDER

Open adjustable ring in 14k gold vermeil with black enamel; $165; arydpo.com

46 47 48

Galaxy Era Constellation necklace with gray diamonds in recycled 14k yellow gold; $550 ; aureliegi.com

Hamsa Sacred Symbol Tablet pendant with hand-carved abalone and mother-of-pearl in sterling silver; $450 ; mauragreenjewelry.com

43 Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice winner Influencers’ Choice winner

Influencers’ Choice winner

Rock & Roll Princess earrings with 4.7 cts.

t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $14,000 ; marisaperry.com

$2,500 & UNDER

S-shape diamond-cut earrings in 14k yellow gold; $1,100 ; gabrielny.com

OVER $2,500

Bujukan pyramid bangle in 14k yellow gold; $3,500 ; gabrielny.com

Editors’ Choice winner

GOLD JEWELRY LABGROWN

ALL PRICE POINTS

Rays Haute Couture necklace with 50.34 cts. t.w. pear-shape lab-grown diamonds and 5.63 ct. center pear-shape lab-grown diamond in 14k white gold; $259,999 ; smilingrocks.com

Editors’ Choice winner

Influencers’ Choice winner

Infinite Icon lab-grown diamond choker; $75,000 ; brilliantearth.com

Bio-resin ring with 0.93 ct. lab-grown fancy yellow cushion diamond; $5,200 ; meylorglobal.com

$2,500 & UNDER

Jackie eye necklace with freshwater pearl and diamonds on paper-clip chain; $890 ; shycreation.com

Influencers’ Choice winner

OVER $2,500

South Sea, akoya, and freshwater pearl Oceana earrings with diamonds, pink sapphires, and tsavorite; $29,000 ; tariqriaz.com

PEARL JEWELRY

Iris earrings with graduated akoya pearls, bezel-set diamonds, and trillion-cut mandarin garnets; $8,900 ; lauragallon.com

Editors’ Choice winner

59

$10,000 & UNDER

14k yellow gold diamondcut huggies with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,475; gabrielny.com

OVER $10,000

Pendant with 11.47 ct. pear-shape paraiba-type tourmaline, 0.59 ct. t.w. round Paraiba tourmalines, and 0.96 ct. t.w. round diamonds; $300,000 ; omiprive.com

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice winner

ALL PRICE POINTS Butterfly ring with 1.13 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white, yellow, and rose gold; $7,500 ; jyescorp.com

MIXED METAL JEWELRY

Keller

62

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice winner

63

$10,000 & UNDER

Double-Row Robin ring with 3.76 ct. mint green garnet and brilliant-cut micro-pavé diamonds in platinum; $9,880; marisaperry.com

OVER $10,000

Influencers’ Choice winner

Infiniti multifunctional bow-tie–neckwear bracelet with 10.64 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum and ceramic; $24,000 ; vummidi.com

PLATINUM JEWELRY

Editors’ Choice winner

Statement ring with 17.43 ct. Colombian emerald and 6.76 cts. t.w. baguette, pear, and marquise diamonds; $320,500 ; jyescorp.com

earrings with diamonds in 24k gold and oxidized silver; $2,370 ; likabehar.com

DIAMONDS MAY BE A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND

— BUT — OUR EVENTS ARE A JEWELER’S.

HOST OUR GREAT ESTATE BUYING EVENT SM

Nothing makes your store sparkle quite like hosting one of our buying events, where we evaluate client's jewelry, artwork, coins, diamonds, watches and other valuables with experience and professionalism. You’ll watch store traffic increase while earning commissions and elevating your brand image. We offer a sponsorship plan filled with cash benefits and our exclusive loyalty program. This will be the beginning of a beautiful relationship. Call 855-441-6724 or visit estatejules.com to learn why our expertise is worth more to you.

Art Nouveau necklace C.1900

Hidden halo solitaire engagement ring in 18k yellow gold with 3 ct. round brilliant diamond and 0.09 ct. t.w. diamonds; price on request ; nicolemera.com

Emerald

WEDDINGS

I CaN Feel YOuR halO

Consider it the ever-popular halo’s more sophisticated sister: the hidden halo. Featuring a ring of diamonds set below the center stone, this setting offers a bit of flash while maintaining the style of a classic solitaire. “My clients love the hidden halo because of the added sparkle that doesn’t necessarily distract from their center stone,” says Nikki Swift, founder of Nicole Mera. “I think this is the modern touch women are including. They can have that bit of pavé that you would normally see in a traditional halo—now it’s just hidden.”

—BRITTANY SIMINITZ

12 ENGAGING AQUAMARINE RINGS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/weddings FOR THAT AND MORE.

FOR JOON, HER first dedicated men’s jewelry collection, Shahla Karimi took her design cues from New York City. “Most men’s jewelry on the market is either bland or ornate,” the former fashion industry executive tells JCK. “I wanted Joon to have character and architectural sensibility in a minimal form.” Introduced in the fall, the 15-piece collection features platinum, gold, and mixed-metal rings set with lab-grown diamonds. The styles, which evolved from custom men’s wedding rings Karimi had been asked to make in the past, are steeped in “essentially the same design language as the pieces under the Shahla brand,” Karimi says, “but from a more masculine perspective.” —VICTORIA

GOMELSKY

Ring in platinum with 4.16 ct. round diamond and 0.33 ct. t.w. diamonds; price on request ; rahaminov.com

Joon Bezel Set

Band in 14k yellow gold with platinum; $2,680 (without center stone)

Joon Slant Ring Set with Wraps in 14k yellow gold and platinum; $2,400

Joon 14k yellow gold and platinum inlay signet ring; $3,780; Shahla Karimi; 347-927-4647; shahlakarimi.com

Joon platinum oval signet ring with 0.56 ct. carré-cut lab-grown diamond; $4,140

Th e jewelry trade's most important global gathering

FROM DESIGN AND TRENDS, TO THE TECHNOLOGY AND PEOPLE THAT PROPELS THE INDUSTRY FORWARD–INNOVATION LIVES AT JCK.

GEMS and JCK Talks Opening June 1

Faith (fire opal, aquamarine, iolite, topaz, hematite)

Large Lace Shield medallion with diamonds; $3,550

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION ROYal haWaIIaN St Yle

Loved (labradorite, opal, violet amethyst, emerald, diamond)

5-stone baguette ring; $1,470; scribejewelry.com

WORDS, WORDS, WORDS

Self-purchasers and gift-buyers alike love nothing more than personalization, and it doesn’t get more personal than acrostic jewelry, which uses the first letter of each gem to spell out a word (e.g., aquamarine, diamond, opal, ruby, emerald = adore). Designer/jewelry retailer Elizabeth Gibson (founder of Eliza Page in Austin) drew on the centuries-old style for her expansive 14k gold and gemstone Scribe collection, priced at $585–$4,500 retail. Customers can write custom messages, and Gibson has also composed her own, including love, dream, believe, and warrior. The possibilities are almost endless.

ROSE BERNARDO

GOMELSKY

THE PERMANENT BRACELET trend is getting a fresh new spin with the debut of Hie Heirlooms of Hawaii, a line of gold engravable bracelets designed to fit snugly around the wrist. Inspired by a tradition that began in 1862 when the future queen of Hawaii, Lili’uokalani, sat for an engagement portrait wearing a simple gold bracelet, Hie (he-eh, “to beautify” in Hawaiian) is the brainchild of lifelong friends Meleana Estes and Noël Shaw. The native Hawaiians, based in Honolulu, inherited heirloom bracelets similar to the queen’s. But when it came time to purchase new ones for their own children, they couldn’t find pieces that resembled the traditional bracelets, with their distinctive black enamel Gothic lettering. So they made their own collection of nine styles in varying sizes, with and without diamonds. “Mele and I started meeting on this project in 2019,” Shaw tells JCK “We would sit in her grandmother’s house—half the time we’d talk about the bracelets and half the time we’d talk about each other’s families. And that’s the spirit of this: the sisterhood, the legacy.” —VICTORIA

(From top) Tutu Leslie in 14k gold with diamonds, $4,500; Meleana 6 mm in 14k gold with black enamel, $3,900; Lei Pikake small in 14k gold, $2,400; Meleana 10 mm in 14k gold, $5,900; Amelia Ana 10 mm in 14k gold with black enamel, $5,900; Hie Signature in 14k gold with diamonds, $3,600; Hie Heirlooms of Hawaii; noel@hiehawaii.com; hiehawaii.com

TOOL TIME

like Square (whose corporate parent, Block, acquired BNPL company Afterpay last year)—you can work with one or more BNPL platforms to give customers the choice to pay over time. Your customers see the BNPL option when they initiate the checkout process. The flagship offering of BNPL companies is interest-free financing that is paid off in four equal installments on a biweekly basis. In addition to the basic short-term, no-interest loan, a growing number of BNPL providers have begun to offer customer financing, using a model that looks more like a traditional installment loan, with the borrower paying a preset amount of principal plus interest each month.

THE ABC s OF BNPL

What to know about buy now, pay later—the payment trend taking retail by storm

BY MARTHA C. WHITE

BUY NOW, PAY later, generally abbreviated to BNPL, is a burgeoning trend in retail payment. Billed as an alternative to cash or credit cards, this form of financing aims to give customers flexibility by letting them pay for purchases over time, without the high interest rates many credit cards charge.

The pitch is proving popular with inflation-strapped consumers. Adobe Analytics reports that from Thanksgiving through Cyber Monday, BNPL purchases jumped by a whopping 85% compared with the week prior.

If you’re considering offering BNPL as a payment option, here’s what you need to know.

WHAT IS IT, ANYWAY?

Today’s pay-later programs are often compared with the layaway plans common in pre–credit card generations. The big difference: While buyers still make a set of fixed installment payments, they get their merchandise before—not after—paying off the entire amount. Often, they won’t incur any interest or fees if they agree to pay off their purchase in a series of payments (usually four on a biweekly basis).

Shoppers, especially young shoppers, don’t view BNPL negatively because they perceive the arrangement as “free” money, according to marketing experts. Retailers who use these platforms agree. “It helps close the sale, which is great,” says Elizabeth Gibson, founder and CEO of Austin, Texas–based Eliza Page, whose store has been using the BNPL provider Affirm for a few years.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

Similarly to how you might contract with a credit card payment processor— either a traditional bank or a startup

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

As with credit card processing, the BNPL payment platform takes a percentage of the purchase price. Some may also charge the merchant a nominal per-transaction fee or a monthly account fee similar to a bank account maintenance fee if a minimum threshold isn’t met. Overall, fees are comparable to those from credit card companies, with most in the 2–7% range.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS?

Alexis Padis, president of San Francisco–based Padis Jewelry, says BNPL “really allows an opportunity to fit unique budgets and cash flows.” Her site has offered BNPL via Sezzle for about a year, and she plans to add Klarna in the near future. “Any kind of offering where you can break up the payments without any additional interest is really appealing to clients,” she adds.

The growing ubiquity of BNPL among big brands puts a kind of peer pressure on small retailers to follow suit, but Padis sees a silver lining in providing such conveniences. “As these fintech companies become more prominent on other websites, if—as an independent retailer—I can offer that same branded experience, it’s a win for everybody.”

The big BNPL players: Affirm; Afterpay; Bread Financial; Klarna; PayPal Pay in 4; Sezzle; Shopify Shop Pay Installments; Zip

THE GOODS

CiTiZeN CZ SmART WATCH

Citizen debuted the latest iteration of its CZ Smart Watch at the Consumer Electronics Show in early January in Las Vegas, promoting it on social media as the “smarter smartwatch.” The Sport model comes in a 44 mm case on a silicone, leather, or stainless-steel bracelet strap, while the Casual model has a 41 mm case and a strap available in mesh, stainless-steel links, or silicone. Both models feature customizable dials and rechargeable batteries.

—KAREN DYBIS

The CZ Smart YouQ analyzes and learns the wearer’s rhythms and habits to enhance personalization.

What it does: The watch blends iconic Citizen design with proprietary wellness software that gets smarter the more often you wear it. That’s because the CZ Smart has what Citizen calls a built-in self-care adviser that alerts the wearer about the peaks and valleys of the day ahead. The smartwatch then suggests how to smooth out those drops in alertness and extend the peaks for better performance in the office, at the gym, or at home.

What we liked: Citizen partnered with NASA and IBM Watson Studio for best-in-class functionality. For example, the CZ Smart YouQ application uses the data it collects to sync with the wearer and provide real-time biofeedback. This NASA-developed Alert Score can then suggest what is known as a Power Fix.

Best feature: Indeed, next to its 15-day battery life, Power Fix is the CZ Smart’s best feature, designed to suggest actions that help the wearer offset fatigue, improve alertness, or come up with better habits. For example, the watch may advise a long walk rather than a second or third cup of coffee. ($325–$425; citizenwatch.com)

With personalization in high demand, having a top-of-the-line engraver is critical to making the sale. Stuller’s Best Built E7 Engraver is the company’s third-generation desktop engraving machine, blending functionality and performance, says Brighton Broussard of Stuller’s Tech Team. “Whether you are cutting or engraving, the E7 utilizes user-friendly software to complete jobs faster and more efficiently than traditional methods,” Broussard says. The E7 Engraver’s upgraded chassis and motor control system give it higher resolution and a 40% stronger cutting force. It works on precious metals, titanium, steel, brass, and aluminum. Plus, the E7 has multiple diamond and end-mill tips to engrave the inside and outside of rings and bangles as well as flat, curved, and cylindrical pieces. ($8,995; stuller.com) —KD

The BB-E7 boasts user-friendly design for diverse customer needs.

NOT ALL LAB DIAMONDS ARE CREATED EQUAL! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

Shy Creation

631 S. Olive St., Suite 900

Los Angeles, CA 90014

Tel: 213-623-8900

Email: info@shycreation.com

Website: shycreation.com

Visit Shy Creation at JCK Luxury Booth LUX129 to explore our latest arrivals and exciting new offerings.

Parlé

1975 S. Fifth Ave. Pocatello, ID 83201

Tel: 360-608-5219

Email: parle@parlegems.com

Website: parlegems.com

Parlé means “to speak.” We source gemstones that speak to us in terms of beauty, rarity, and value. We create and craft jewelry designs that speak to us in terms of impact, longevity, and joy.

Royal Chain

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036

Tel: 800-622-0960

Email: sales@royalchain.com

Website: royalchain.com

Royal Chain celebrates 45 years of excellence in 2023 as the trusted source for gold jewelry. New for spring, discover our 14k Diamanté bracelets that shine like diamonds in three color options.

Pompos Jewelry

Los Angeles, CA

Tel: 213-624-1441

Email: quality@pomposjewelry.com

Website: pomposjewelry.com

Our L’Eleganza Rosa ring features a gorgeously cut radiant 1.01 ct. light pink VS2 GIA-certified natural diamond.

Omi Privé

Tel: 626-331-4533

Email: jewelry@omiprive.com

Website: omiprive.com

At Omi Privé, we seek out the most exquisite gemstones and work entirely in their service, employing expert American craftsmanship and unique jewelry designs to accentuate their natural beauty.

De Beers

300 First Stamford Place Stamford, CT 06902

Tel: 475-232-8697

Email: ivette.stephanopoulos@debeersgroup.com

Website: institute.debeers.com/en-gb

The De Beers Institute of Diamonds’ mission is to grow and strengthen consumer confidence by providing integrity across the diamond industry, offering unrivaled diamond grading and testing that includes melee, parcel, and set diamond verification services.

Gregorio Jewelry LLC

629 S. Hill St., Suite 700 Los Angeles, CA 90014

Tel: 888-489-3672

Fax: 213-489-3603

Email: gregoriojewelry@aol.com

Website: gregoriojewelry.com

We specialize in unique diamond engagement rings and bands. Over 1,000 designs since 1996, all made in the USA. Special memo program for all new accounts.

Roberto Bravo

Molla Fenari Mah. Kılıçcılar Sokak. No:53

Çemberlitaş, Fatih, İstanbul

Tel: 90-212-520-0387

Email: info@robertobravo.com

Website: en.robertobravo.com

The Salsa collection is Roberto Bravo’s brand-new series that makes a name for itself with its extraordinary design and difference. The patented model is protected by Roberto Bravo’s signature blue diamond detail against any possibility of copying.

Quality Gold

500 Quality Blvd. Fairfield, OH 45014

Tel: 513-942-7659; 800-354-9833

Fax: 513-682-1100

Email: info@qgold.com

Website: qgold.com; herco.com

These Herco styles are made with exquisite craftsmanship and finished with hidden clasps and impressive details. Natural diamonds accent the 18k gold large links (Styles 18VENE16YD18, 18VEBR17YD8, and 18ILEA67Y). Shop herco.com

Arch Crown Inc.

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205

Tel: 800-526-8353

Fax: 973-731-2228

Email: info@archcrown.com

Website: archcrown.com

Poly-Lam Thermal Transfer

Computer Tags. Start tagging your merchandise with Arch Crown computer tags. Poly-Lam material has superior print durability and can withstand ultrasonic cleaning; text and bar code will not rub off.

Clear-Tail tags in gold, silver, and white. JCK Las Vegas Booth 52033.

Stuller

302 Rue Louis XIV

Lafayette, LA 70508

Tel: 800-877-7777

Email: sales@stuller.com

Website: stuller.com

302®️ Fine Jewelry is about more than just jewelry. Our award-winning styles and curated collections are fresh, attainable, and up to date with three new product releases every year. Learn about becoming a retail partner at stuller.com/302finejewelry.

Dabakarov

62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036

Tel: 212-730-1888

Email: info@dabakarov.com

Exceptional is our Standard

Rare & Forever By RDI Diamonds

2300 W. Ridge Road

Rochester, NY 14626

Tel: 877-620-1333

Fax: 844-742-6591

Email: info@rareandforever.com

Website: become.rareandforever.com/learn-more

Rare & Forever is your solution to shrinking margins, online price comparisons, and inconsistent grading. Screened for BGM and graded by AI, Rare & Forever is the competitive advantage you need against online diamond retailers.

Effy Jewelry

Tel: 855-ASK-EFFY

Website: effyjewelry.com

Coming up roses: Blossom-inspired pieces continue to dominate this year’s trends, and with good reason—versatility! Whether you prefer over-the-top cocktail rings or delicate drop earrings, Effy Jewelry’s fresh take on trending florals will give your personality room to bloom.

Gabriel & Co.

545 W. 45th St., Third Floor

New York, NY 10036

Tel: 212-519-1400

Email: amccoy@gabrielny.com

Website: gabrielny.com

Discover the iconic Gabriel Bujukan®️ collection inspired by the Balinese art of persuasion. Delicate yet fresh and fun, it’s the perfect gift or self-purchase. The collection includes an array of necklaces, earrings, and bracelets.

Stuller

302 Rue Louis XIV

Lafayette, LA 70508

Tel: 800-877-7777

Email: sales@stuller.com

Website: stuller.com

Designed with contemporary consumers in mind, Modern Brilliance®️ is your solution for timeless pieces at enticing price points—the luxury of bridal, fine jewelry, and findings set with lab-grown diamonds. Learn more at stuller.com/modernbrilliance.

Christopher Designs Inc.

50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507

New York, NY 10036

Website: christopherdesigns.com

Type of metal: 14k white gold

Type of stone(s): 26 Neon Crisscut cushion diamonds

Total carat weight of each stone type GVS: 13.97 cts. t.w.

MSRP: $35,590

Kimberly Collins

Colored Gems

18124 Wedge Parkway, Suite 2018

Reno, NV 89511

Tel: 775-622-0600

Email: casey@kimberlycollinsgems.com

Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com

This natural, no heat 0.74 ct. blue sapphire hexagon is set in an 18k yellow gold cigar band.

Amden Jewelry Inc.

550 S. Hill St., Suite 950

Los Angeles, CA 90013

Tel: 213-327-0863

Fax: 213-623-2214

Email: info@amdeninc.com

We are a prime manufacturer in the industry for over 40 years and a leader in exclusive styles, concepts, programs, and patented, copyrighted items. We also carry natural white and fancy yellow diamonds and jewelry. Most orders ship in two to four weeks.

Lika Behar Collection

80 Triangle Blvd. Carlstadt, NJ 07072

Tel: 201-933-7200 ext. 1

Email: likabehar@likabehar.com

Website: likabehar.com

Award-winning designer Lika Behar creates unique works of wearable art inspired by ancient civilizations and the Mediterranean. Her hand-wrought individual designs reflect ancient history as well as the modern feminine spirit.

Shula New York

22 W. 48th St., Suite 806

New York, NY 10035

Tel: 646-831-2228

Email: info@shulany.com

Website: shula-ny.com

Shula New York boasts both elegance and style in its renovated collection. Revealing the latest collection in 14k gold set with diamonds and vibrant colored stones.

Le Vian ®

235 Great Neck Road

Great Neck, NY 11021

Tel: 516-466-7202

Fax: 516-466-7292

Email: sales@levian.com

Website: levian.com

This magnificent platinum and 18k Strawberry Gold ®️ Le Vian Couture ®️ ring features an exquisite 1 ct. natural fancy light purplish-pink cushion diamond flanked by 7/8 ct. t.w. fancy light pink and near-colorless Vanilla Diamonds ®️ . MSRP: $109,350. See us in the Veronese Ballroom.

Charles & Colvard

170 Southport Drive Morrisville, NC 27560

Tel: 800-210-4367

Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com

Website: charlesandcolvard.com

Forever One™ is the finest of all created moissanite. Each gemstone is exquisitely cut and faceted to maximize the fire and brilliance, offering your customers a luxurious product at an accessible price point.

Uneek Jewelry

550 S. Hill St., Suite 1635

Los Angeles, CA 90013

Tel: 213-622-5119

Email: info@uneekjewelry.com

Website: uneek.com

A breathtaking engagement ring, along with show-stopping fashion statements, all perfectly curated with beautiful center stones carefully chosen from an array of options from different countries (Styles R5001ECU, BR3002ECRU, and ER4025CUBS).

SHOWCASE

Ralf Mezger

Sonnenbergstr. 61

Pforzheim, Germany, 75180

Tel: 49-7231-281-0090

Fax: 49-7231-281-0099

Email: mail@ralf-mezger.de

Website: ralf-mezger.com

Get enthusiastic about our variety of international fine jewelry designs of excellent quality and at interesting price levels! We can offer OEM (original equipment manufacturer) business for quantity buyers.

Phillip Gavriel

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036

Tel: 800-622-0960

Email: info@phillipgavriel.com

Website: phillipgavriel.com

From Phillip Gavriel’s spring collection, these sterling silver Popcorn Glamour pendants bring the sparkle, each with 18k yellow gold accents and .055 ct. t.w. natural diamonds. MSRP: $285

Willow Diamonds

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036

Tel: 609-688-1500

Fax: 609-688-1501

Email: info@willowddiamonds.com

Website: willowdiamonds.com

Award-winning designer Jacquie Earle has pioneered a new approach: laser-piercing diamonds and eliminating traditional mountings to focus on the diamonds’ natural fire with light and mobility. “If You Love Diamonds…Set Them Free!”®️

Rembrandt Charms

370 S. Youngs Road

Williamsville, NY 14221

Tel: 800-828-7840

Fax: 800-828-7811

Email: kayleigh@rembrandtcharms.com

Website: rembrandtcharms.com

New Trending Charms for 2023! Charms can represent memories that will last generations. We have thousands to choose from, including engravables and photo art to give them a personal touch. Available in five metals, with a lifetime warranty.

RJO Inc.

115 W. Fourth St. N. Newton, IA 50208

Tel: 641-792-4900

Fax: 641-792-9251

Email: rjo@rjomembers.com

Website: rjomembers.com

For over half a century, we’ve put millions of dollars into the hands of our retail members/owners through cash-back rebates. RJO members also have access to free seminars, buying trips, and low, prenegotiated vendor prices.

Vahan Jewelry

31 Merritt St.

Port Chester, NY 10573

Tel: 914-937-1800

Fax: 914-937-1805

Email: sales@vahanjewelry.com

Website: vahanjewelry.com

Presenting the newest additions to Vahan’s renowned collection of diamond bracelets. With diamonds set in 14k gold and featuring Vahan’s trademarked Moiré Beaded pattern, these pieces are crafted for everyday elegance. Discover more at vahanjewelry.com

DA Gold

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036

Tel: 212-819-1111

Email: da@dagoldproducts.com

Website: dagoldproducts.com

This trio of timeless 18k yellow and white Italian gold bangles is enhanced with 0.3 ct. to 1.2 cts. t.w. diamonds each.

Jye’s International Inc.

1633 Bayshore Highway, Suite 136 Burlingame, CA 94010

Tel: 415-621-8880

Fax: 415-552-1675

Email: jyescorp@gmail.com

Website: jyescorp.com

A ruby ring fit for royalty: 7.08 ct. natural ruby surrounded by 3.64 cts. t.w. precision-cut round and pear-shape diamonds.

Quality Gold

500 Quality Blvd.

Fairfield, OH 45014

Tel: 513-942-7659; 800-354-9833

Fax: 513-682-1100

Email: info@qgold.com

Website: qgold.com

Be prepared with a wide assortment of options for shoppers seeking alternatives to traditional bridal and basics with these modern and stylish pieces featuring lab-grown diamonds (Styles EM1006-300-WLG, X735WLG, and PM9452-175-WLG).

Stuller

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508

Tel: 800-877-7777

Email: sales@stuller.com

Website: stuller.com

Create endless possibilities and offer more with Stuller’s vast range of customization options. From selling solutions and services to digital tools and software, trust Stuller to be your custom manufacturing partner. Learn more at stuller.com/customization.

Rare & Forever By RDI Diamonds

2300 W. Ridge Road

Rochester, NY 14626

Shy Creation

631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014

Tel: 310-936-1884

Email: info@shycreation.com

Website: shycreation.com

Meet all of Shy Creation’s 2023 Jewelers’ Choice Award winners at Luxury by JCK.

Tel: 877-620-1333

Fax: 844-742-6591

Email: info@rareandforever.com

Website: become.rareandforever.com/learn-more

Rare & Forever is your solution to shrinking margins, online price comparisons, and inconsistent grading. Screened for BGM and graded by AI, Rare & Forever is the competitive advantage you need against online diamond retailers.

Zen Diamond

301 State Route 17, Suite 800

Rutherford, NJ 07070

Tel: 201-842-7698

Email: usa@zendiamond.com

Website: zendiamond.com

Think big. Along with delicate and dainty jewelry, there’s another hot trend popping up: statement rings. A statement ring is a gorgeous idea. You can easily accent any look with it.

Schofer Germany: The Chain Company

GmbH & Co. KG

Freiburger Strasse 3

75179 Pforzheim, Germany

Tel: 49-7231-91030

Fax: 49-7231-101599

Email: info@schofer.com

Website: schofer.com

Pantone Color 2023: Viva Magenta! This strong shade of purple stands for optimism—looking forward to a positive future. Discover the Schofer collection full of innovations and quality! More chains for your ideas: schofer.com.

John Atencio

3000 E. First Ave.

Denver, CO 80206

Tel: 720-445-5292

Email: wholesale@johnatencio.com

Website: johnatencio.com

Discover the sleek lines and modern drama of our latest Duplex Gold collection. Each diamond-rich style brings highly polished mixed metals and impeccable craftsmanship for a compelling new John Atencio statement. JCK Las Vegas Booth 15030.

RDI Diamonds

2300 W. Ridge Road

Rochester, NY 14626

Tel: 800-874-8768

Fax: 844-742-6591

Website: rdidiamonds.com

From thousands of diamonds and flexible memo options to generous stock options and cost-efficient shipping, our goal is to provide the highest quality of both care and diamonds to our clients.

DiamSparkZ

580 Fifth Ave., Suite 1500 New York, NY 10036

Tel: 212-221-4400

Fax: 212-221-4401

Email: labgrown@diamsparkz.com

Website: diamsparkz.com

Our company offers loose lab-grown diamonds and stunning jewelry pieces. Our diamonds are ethically created in a laboratory and have the same characteristics and quality as mined diamonds, at a fraction of the price.

Stuller

302 Rue Louis XIV

Lafayette, LA 70508

Tel: 800-877-7777

Email: sales@stuller.com

Website: stuller.com

Ever&ever®️ is a complete bridal program featuring high-quality, customizable prototype rings—each a flexible 3C design. With your passion to create, ever&ever®️ helps you deliver an unforgettable customization experience. Learn more at stuller.com/everandever

Sylvie

Tel: 800-992-3426

Email: info@sylviecollection.com

Website: sylviecollection.com

Sylvie is a luxury jewelry brand that strives to serve as a daily reminder of love and its enduring beauty. With cofounder and lead designer Sylvie Levine at the helm, Sylvie is designed by a woman, for a woman.

Royal Chain

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036

Tel: 800-622-0960

Email: sales@royalchain.com

Website: royalchain.com

New in gold for 2023, Royal Chain introduces a colorful twist on best-selling chain styles with genuine gemstones. This 14k gold paper-clip bracelet includes amethyst, citrine, blue topaz, peridot, and garnet.

MSRP: $340

Parade Designs Inc.

1327 S. Myrtle Ave.

Monrovia, CA 91016

Tel: 213-627-6606

Email: info@paradedesign.com

Website: paradedesign.com

Vivid sapphires and diamonds intertwine in this meticulously crafted band from the Parade in Color collection (Style BD4798A).

MSRP: $6,700

Dabakarov

62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036

Tel: 212-730-1888

Email: info@dabakarov.com

Exceptional is our Standard

Marisa Perry Atelier

636 Hudson St. New York, NY 10014

Tel: 212-566-8977

Email: sales@marisaperry.com

Website: marisaperry.com

Wedding jewelry specialist Marisa Perry Atelier offers exquisite design, unsurpassed “made in NYC” workmanship, and thoughtful service. We offer a large selection of engagement rings, wedding bands, and other specialoccasion fine jewelry. Custom work available.

Midas Chain

151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647

Tel: 201-244-1150

Email: sales@midaschain.com

Website: midaschain.com

Our new 14k yellow gold fluted bangle gives off major gold-brilliance vibes. Bring rays of light to your bracelet stack with this statement piece. You will want to pair it with the matching ring.

Alex Velvet pg. 76

Website: alexvelvetusa.com

Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com

Phone: 323-255-6900

Amden Jewelry pg. 86

Phone: 213-327-0863

Fax: 213-327-0865

Arpas Gold Jewellery pg. 91

Website: arpas.com.tr

Email: info@arpasusa.com

Phone: 212-869-5548

Bhanderi Lab Grown

Diamonds Inc. pg. 155

Website: blgd.in

Email: usa@blgd.in

Phone: 212-278-0905

Charles & Colvard pg. 73

Website: charlesandcolvard.com

Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com

Toll-Free: 800-210-4367

Christopher Designs pg. 95

Website: christopherdesigns.com

Toll-Free: 800-955-0970

DA Gold pg. 163

Website: dagoldproducts.com

Email: da@dagoldproducts.com

Phone: 212-819-1111

Toll-Free: 800-223-6639

Fax: 212-730-5706

Dabakarov pg. 38-39

Website: dabakarov.com

Email: info@dabakarov.com

Phone: 212-730-1888

DIAMSPARKZ LGD LLC pg. 81

Website: diamsparkz.com

Email: labgrown@diamsparkz.com

Phone: 212-221-4400

Fax: 212-221-4401

De Beers Institute of Diamonds pg. 10-11

Website: institute.debeers.com/en-gb

Email: ivette.stephanopoulos@ debeersgroup.com

Phone: 475-232-8697

eBay Inc. pg. 26-27

Website: ebay.com

Phone: 866-540-3229

Effy pg. Back Cover

Website: effyjewelry.com

Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com

Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY

Gabriel & Co. pg. 53

Website: gabrielny.com

Phone: 212-519-1400

GIA pg. 43, 55, Inside Back Cover

Website: gia.edu

Email: marketing@gia.edu

Phone: 760-603-4000

Toll-Free: 800-421-7250

Gregorio Jewelry pg. 165

Website: gregoriojewelry.com

Email: gregoriojewelry@aol.com

Hoover & Strong pg. 175

Website: hooverandstrong.com

Email: info@hooverandstrong.com

Phone: 804-794-3700

Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Istanbul Jewelry Show pg. 193

Website: istanbuljewelryshow.com

Email: info-rotaforte@ubm.com

Phone: +90 212 519 07 19

JCK Events pg. 82, 191

Website: jckshows.com

Toll-Free: 800-257-3626

Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 12-15

Website: jewelersmutual.com

Toll-Free: 800-558-6411

John Atencio pg. 71

Website: johnatencio.com

Phone: 720-445-5292

Email: wholesale@johnatencio.com

Jubilee Diamond

Instrument Limited pg. 77 Website: gemlogis.com

Email:

enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk

Phone: +852 2351 7888

Fax: +852 2351 7333

Jules Estate Buyers pg. 188

Website: julesestatebuyers.com

Email: tony@estatejules.com

Phone: 314-485-8223

Fax: 314-485-8225

Jye’s International pg. 41

Website: jyescorp.com

Email: jyescorp@gmail.com

Phone: 415-621-8880

Kimberly Collins

Colored Gems pg. 121

Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com

Email: kim@kimberlycollinsgems.com

Phone: 512-661-8778

Labon LLC pg. 159

Website: labondiamonds.com

Email: sales@labondiamonds.com

Phone: 315-207-7066

Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1

Website: levian.com

Email: sales@levian.com

Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN

Lika Behar Collection pg. 74

Website: likabehar.com

Email: likabehar@likabehar.com

Phone: 201-933-7200

Marisa Perry, Inc. pg. 114

Website: marisaperry.com

Email: marisa@marisaperry.com

Phone: 212-566-8977

Midas pg. 4-5

Website: midaschain.com

Email: sales@midaschain.com

Toll-Free: 877-643-2765

Mioro pg. 24-25

Website: miorogold.com

Email: info@miorogold.com

Phone: 212-302-6077

Fax: 212-302-6018

Nivoda pg. 171

Website: nivoda.net

Email: sales@nivoda.net

Omi Privé pg. 119

Website: omiprive.com

Email: prive@omigems.com

Toll-Free: 877-OMI-GEMS

Parade Designs, Inc. pg. 45

Website: paradedesign.com

Email: info@paradedesign.com

Phone: 213-627-4019

Parlé Jewelry Designs pg. 123

Website: parlegems.com

Email: parlegems@parlegems.com

Phone: 208-233-4059

Toll-Free 800-635-9800

Fax: 208-233-0120

Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. pg. 20-23

Website: peterlam.com.hk

Email: jacky@peterlam.com.hk

Phone: +852 23555802

Fax: +852 27641328

Pimiento Jewelry Inc. pg. 99

Instagram: @pimiento_jewelry

Email: chacha@pimientojewelry.com

Phone: 424-440-6878

Whatsapp: +90 535 2910734

Pompos Jewelry pg. 93

Website: pomposjewelry.com

Email: quality@pomposjewelry.com

Phone: 213-624-1441

Quality Gold, Inc. pg. 8-9

Website: qgold.com

Email: info@qgold.com

Phone: 513-942-7659

Toll-Free: 800-354-9833

Fax: 513-682-1100

Toll-free Fax: 800-686-7184

Ralf Mezger pg. 173

Website: ralf-mezger.com

Email: mail@ralf-mezger.de

Phone: +4972312810090

Fax: +4972312810099

Rand & Paseka pg. 56

Website: randpaseka.com

Email: sales@randpaseka.com

Toll-Free: 800-229-0006

RDI Diamonds pg. 46-47, 100-113

Website: rdidiamonds.com

Toll-Free: 800-874-8768

Rembrandt Charms pg. 18-19

Website: rembrandtcharms.com

Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com

Toll-Free: 800-828-7811

Riddhi Corporation LLP pg. 157

Website: rclgd.com

Email: kautil@vishnuexport.com

Phone: 0261 2550073, +91 9327392476

RJO pg. 197

Website: rjomembers.com

Email: rjo@rjomembers.com

Phone: 641-792-4900

Toll-Free: 800-247-1774

Fax: 641-792-9251

Toll-Free Fax: 877-252-4542

Roberto Bravo pg. 30-31

Website: robertobravo.com

Email: export@robertobravo.com

Royal Chain Group pg. Gatefold Cover, 2-3

Website: royalchain.com

Toll-Free: 800-622-0960

Schofer pg. 83

Website: schofer.com

Email: info@schofer.com

Phone: +49 (0) 7231-91030

Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang

Jewellery Co pg. 28-29

Website: laofengxiang.com

Shula New York pg. 33

Website: shulany.com

Email: info@shulany.com

Phone: 212-302-0022

Fax: 646-357-9735

Shy Creation Inc. pg. 6-7

Website: shycreation.com

Toll-Free: 800-606-1749

Stuller Inc. pg. 57-69, 128, 167

Website: stuller.com

Email: info@stuller.com

Toll-Free: 800-877-7777

Fax: 337-981-1655

Sylvie Jewelry pg. 37

Website: sylviecollection.com

Email: marketing@sylviecollection.com

Phone: 800-992-3426

Ti Sento – Milano pg. 125

Website: tisento-milano.com

Email: sales@tisento-milano.com

Phone: 0031 20 3428080

Tim Roark Inc. pg. 70

Website: timroarkinc.com

Email: info@trimportsatl.com

Phone: 404-872-8937

Toll-Free: 800-568-2011

Fax: 404-872-9346

Umicore pg. 194

Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com

Toll-Free: 877-795-5060

Uneek Jewelry Inc. pg. 34-35

Website: uneekjewelry.com

Email: info@uneekjewelry.com

Phone: 213-622-5119

Toll-Free: 888-BE-UNEEK

Fax: 213-622-5115

VAHAN Jewelry pg. 78

Website: vahanjewelry.com

Email: sales@vahanjewelry.com

Phone: 914-937-1800

Fax: 914-937-1805

Willow Diamonds pg. 89

Website: willowdiamonds.com

Email: info@willowdiamonds.com

Phone: 609-688-1500

Fax: 609-688-1501

Zen Diamond pg. 97

Website: zendiamond.com

Phone: 201-842-7698

Copyright ©2023 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 154 No. 1 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 1 time a year in May by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, a Division of RELX Inc., 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. Circulation records are maintained at 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. JCK is a registered trademark of RELX Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

ICE QUEEN

Talk to me, Harry Winston!

THE WAY WE WORE

WHAT IS IT with magazines, swimsuits, and diamonds?

We did it with model Fred Juneau in “Sparkle It Up” (peep the 275 ct. diamond scarf on page 137), and photographer Julio Donoso did it in 1991 with Naomi Campbell. In 2020, Donoso (now a winemaker in Chile) posted this pic on Instagram in honor of Campbell’s 50th birthday, recalling the shoot on the roof of the Peninsula Hotel on Fifth Avenue in New York City. “It was snowing outside and you in the pool with jewelry by Harry Winston and wigs by Mugler,” he wrote. “What a fun day with the most cheerful and talented of the divas.” It’s a completely unrealistic concept—when was the last time you saw someone at the local pool wearing fringe earrings, three cluster bracelets, a giant emerald and diamond statement necklace, and sapphire and diamond cocktail rings? But with these kinds of rocks, looks always beat practicality.

—MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Naomi Campbell chills out poolside in a cool collection of high jewelry from the King of Diamonds.

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