JCK June 2018 Issue

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JUNE 2018

JCKONLINE.COM

LET IT SHOW! GET READY FOR VEGAS WITH A BLING-TASTIC A-TO-Z GUIDE TO JCK

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JUNE 2018

JCKONLINE.COM

LOCK, STOCK & BLOCKCHAIN DECODING THE NEW DIAMOND-TRACKING TECHNOLOGY

BRANDS SEEKING WOMEN

MARKETING TO S U P E R - S AV V Y CONTEMPORARY CONSUMERS

VINTAGE REVIVAL FROM VICTORIAN TO RETRO, ESTATE JEWELRY IS FUELING A RETAIL REVOLUTION

MILESTONES COLLECTION C E L E B R AT E L I F E ’ S J O U R N E Y S W I T H L E V I A N

NUDE DIAMONDS ™

® REEF BALLROOM

N O O N E C O LO R S YO U R W O R LD LI K E LE V I A N â„¢

There’s nothing more beautiful than the inherent trust a child has in his mother.

Over the last 40 years it is that same sense of trust that has helped us build our company.

Thanks for the confidence you’ve placed in us.

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Discover us at JCK Las Vegas, Booth B36160 phillipgavriel.com • 800-622-0960

MAKE EVERY DAY AN OCCASION

ADVERTISEMENT Photo courtesy of Fine Jewellery

What You Need to Know About

Diamonds From India When you’re purchasing diamonds, you want to know that you’re importing from a

Why the U.S.

reputable, reliable processor.

As part of the U.S. market, you know that one of the reasons India’s gem and jewelry industry excels is that it customizes its stones and jewelry for the U.S. “The Indian Diamond Industry in particular has emerged as the Industry to reckon with globally, with 93 percent of the diamonds processed here exported to the global markets,” says Pramod Agrawal, chairman of the Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), adding, “It is remarkable that 14 out of 15 diamonds set in jewelry worldwide are processed in India. India today has attained an enviable position when it comes to supplying diamonds in all the possible cuts, clarity, and color, enabling it to meet any jewelry requirements.” This may be in part due to India’s ability to cater to U.S. tastes. “Recent trends indicate that the American consumer is buying jewelry manufactured and designed in India in

While everyone in the diamond business is familiar with the four C’s of diamond quality—color, cut, clarity, and carat—those in the know are always seeking the fifth C as well: confidence.

These five “C” values tell the story of how India is fine-tuning its diamond industry, building on its long tradition of exquisite craftsmanship to further develop its reliability, legal compliance, and sustainability.

“

It is remarkable that 14 out of 15 diamonds set in jewelry worldwide are processed in India.

—Pramod Agrawal

”

a much larger volume than ever before,” explains Colin Shah, vice chairman of GJEPC. The gems, too, play a role, with India able to offer colored gems and other specialty items as the U.S. demands. This versatility has helped India successfully cater to the U.S. jewelry requirements over the years. India is the largest importing destination for jewelry, supplying up to 16 percent of the U.S. market’s demand. The total exports from India to the U.S. between April 2017 and March 2018 stand at a staggering $9.4 billion. One of the largest exporting destinations for India, the U.S. constitutes 23 percent of the total gem and jewelry exports. But it’s not just the high quality of Indian diamonds, gems, and jewelry that appeals to the U.S.; it’s also new initiatives GJEPC is putting in place to ensure that consumer confidence ranks with the exemplary stone and processing quality India is known for.

Photo courtesy of Kama Schachter Jewelry Pvt Ltd.

Regulating itself: India’s new steps You need to be able to rely on the integrity and safety of your stone supplier. GJEPC is constantly working to upgrade and tighten its rigorous regulatory initiatives. To support and strengthen industry-wide compliance, GJEPC started the MyKYCBank project through a nonprofit subsidiary, the G&J KYC Information Centre. KYC stands for “know your customer” and has become one of the leading methods of increasing oversight and limiting money laundering. The MyKYCBank online platform allows industry members to complete KYC documentation with a user-friendly interface.

Businesses complete the KYC documentation, which is then verified by a dedicated compliance team. This process will help ensure updated KYC information to all trading partners, enabling them to fully meet legal compliance standards.

But that’s only the beginning of how GJEPC is striving to increase accountability and transparency. As members of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), India’s jewelry companies are mandated to follow RJC’s guidelines for a responsible supply chain, as well as the compliance guidelines of the mining companies with which they work.

The industry also adheres to all World Diamond Council and the World Federation of Diamond Bourses invoice warranties. You want the assurance of a reliable industry, and India is committed to regulation and compliance.

Photo courtesy of Kama Schachter Jewelry Pvt Ltd.

Sustainable development Part of trusting an industry is knowing that it is working toward sustainable development. India’s diamond industry is exploring ways to support its workers and its overall sustainability and development goals. Currently, GJEPC is focusing on the United Nations’ 17 sustainable development goals, but its work doesn’t stop there. While GJEPC pursues these goals and adheres to the fair business practices, it also has a passionate, long-standing commitment to charitable and large-scale philanthropic activities.

India’s jewelry industry has long been a leader in responding to national calamities and emergency situations. In 1999, the industry created the Gem & Jewellery National Relief Foundation to offer speedy response to natural and man-made disasters. And in 2014, the GJEPC formed Jewellers for Hope, which each year raises funds from the Indian gem and jewelry industry. The funds are then distributed to deserving charities or NGOs for their social welfare projects.

You need to be able to trust your diamond processor. India is committed to a responsible, sustainable future, and its goals for greater transparency, increased regulation as necessary, and sustainable development make it a partner you can rely on.

Photo courtesy of Fine Jewellery

INDIA at JCK Las Vegas GJEPC, India presents the India Pavilion at JCK Las Vegas for the 15th consecutive year, with 34 leading gem and jewelry exporters, including plain and studded diamond and colored gemstone jewelry.

The India Pavilion is spread across 43 booths, strategically located at the Diamond Plaza and the Passport location. The top Indian manufacturers and retailers will exhibit a scintillating array of diamonds, gems, and jewelry developed especially for visitors to the JCK Las Vegas show.

DISCOVER IN VEGAS. THEN DESIGN,CREATE,SUBMIT. SAVE THE DATE 2018 Competition Deadlines: Submit Entries: Dallas: June 29, 2018 – New York Drop Off: July 10, 2018

#AGTASpectrum18

source

a place of origin. a supplier. AGTA Members are the ethical resource for all links along the jewelry supply chain – mine to market. Join us at the 2018 AGTA GemFair™- JCK Las Vegas, May 31 – June 4 and at the 2019 AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, Feb. 5 – 10, 2019.

AGTA Office: 800-972-1162 – info@agta.org

www.agta.org

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CONTENTS

20

108

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

ICE QUEEN Drape yourself in this season’s most sizzling new diamond designs.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY YULIA GORBACHENKO

FEATURES 116 CHAIN REACTION What is blockchain—and why do so many people consider it the future of the diamond and jewelry industry?

BY ROB BATES

128

118 ESTATE SECRETS Stop thinking about adding vintage to your store’s collection and start shopping for a stellar assortment now.

BY AMY ELLIOTT

126 CYBERCRIME: IS YOUR STORE AT RISK?

BY STEPHANIE VOZZA

128 NEW IN TOWN

118

Prosperous mom-and-pop jewelers are adding locations as opportunity knocks.

BY WHITNEY SIELAFF

130 FINAL SALE Closing your business requires months of careful planning.

Follow the steps in our article to ensure a smooth shutdown.

BY AMANDA BALTAZAR

126 JUNE 2018

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) YULIA GORBACHENKO; ILLUSTRATION BY NILS-PETTER EKWALL; PHOTOGRAPHS BY KENJI TOMA (2)

From phishing to social scams, online crime is running rampant.

ANKE & GUANCHEN HAVE BEEN TOGETHER FOR ONE YEAR. HER DIAMONDS HAVE SPENT TWO BILLION YEARS BENEATH THE EARTHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SURFACE AND A FEW MONTHS ON HER FINGER.

CONTENTS

22

JCKONLINE.COM

FEATURES 132 THE AMAZING FACE Some years, watchmakers like to experiment with avant-garde designs and crazy complications.

This isn’t one of them.

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

144

JCK ’s ongoing series on the shopping centers finding success amid an ever-changing retail landscape. This issue: How King of Prussia became as essential to Philly as a cheesesteak “Whiz wit.”

BY BOB ICKES

132

140 WOMEN IN LOVE (WITH DIAMONDS) In a moment dominated by movements such as #MeToo and #TimesUp, diamond jewelry advertising can be tricky business.

BY EMILI VESILIND

144 THERE’S NO CURE LIKE TRAVEL

150

The jewelry industry’s most peripatetic souls dish on their favorite destinations, must-have items, and things they’d never ever do again.

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

JCK LAS VEGAS SPECIAL 150 THE ABCs OF JCK

140

Our almost-exhaustive guide to JCK and LUXURY, organized in a handy alphabetical list of events, trends, pavilions, and more.

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

JUNE 2018

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) FERRANTRAITE/ISTOCK/GETTY; DIGITAL ART BY ALFREDO CEBALLOS; EMRE GUVEN/BLAUBLUT EDITION.COM; PHOTOGRAPH BY LIAM GOODMAN, PROP STYLIST: ELIZABETH PRESS/JUDY CASEY; COUTURE NECKLACE IN 18K VANILLA GOLD AND HONEY GOLD WITH 45.86 CTS. T.W. COSTA SMERALDA EMERALDS AND 14.21 CTS. T.W. VANILLA DIAMONDS, $308,648, LE VIAN, 877-253-8426, LEVIAN.COM

138 MALLS OF AMERICA: PART 2

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CONTENTS

24

JCKONLINE.COM

88 DEPARTMENTS 28

JEWEL BOX 5 things rocking the industry

30 32 34 40 42 44 47

53 54

32

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER JCK INSIDER JCKONLINE SOCIAL DIARY NEWS GEMS The AGS Conclave, live from Music City!

GEM PRICING REPORT

THE CALENDAR Industry shows, May 25â&#x20AC;&#x201C;July 9, 2018

84 86 88

93 94 98

SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER S.H. Silver and Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry in Menlo Park, Calif.

RETAIL THERAPY Top-selling diamond styles CAUSES TO CELEBRATE STORE WE ADORE Katie Diamond Jewelry in Ridgewood, N.J.

THE LOOK

RED CARPET DESIGNER SHOWCASE M. Spalten Jewelry 104 JCK ASKS...

John Atencio

93 163 165 166 168 171

THE VAULT GOLD BRIDAL SILVER

SHOW BIZ Inside the new Las Vegas Estate Jewelry & Watch pavilion.

Plus: the winter IIJS show.

175 TOOL TIME Mobile hacks for showgoers.

Plus: Misfit Vapor and more.

192 THE WAY WE WORE Shirley Temple, white diamonds JUNE 2018

163

TOP: PHOTOGRAPHY BY BALL & ALBANESE; HAIR AND MAKEUP: MARGINA DENNIS

81

26

COVER LOOK

JCKONLINE.COM

LET IT SHOW! Get ready for Vegas with a bling-tastic A-to-Z guide to JCK.

Diamond Willow chandelier earrings in 18k white gold with 8.84 cts. t.w. diamonds; $42,000; Dilamani; sales@ dilamani.com; dilamani.com

Astraea necklace in 18k white gold with 16.2 cts. t.w. diamonds; $53,495; Ashi Diamonds; 800-622-2744; ashidiamonds.com

VINTAGE REVIVAL From Victorian to Retro, estate jewelry is fueling a retail revolution.

(TOP) COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY YULIA GORBACHENKO Hair: Rubi Jones at Julian Watson Agency / Makeup: Justine Purdue at Streeters using Nars Cosmetics / Stylist: Sandy Armeni Manicurist: Roseann Singleton using Dior Les Vernis for Art Department / Model: Jenna Earle at Muse / Top: Jonathan Simkhai (ABOVE) COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENJI TOMA Stylist: Eriko Nagata JUNE 2018

BROOCH IN BOX: ANTONIO VIRARDI FOR MACKLOWE GALLERY

Circa 1900 French Art Nouveau 18k gold and enamel brooch with 36 ct. hexagonal-cut topaz and 1.3 cts. t.w. rose- and old Europeanâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;cut diamonds; $100,000; Macklowe Gallery; 212-6446400; macklowe gallery.com

ever&ever Now Includes ®

WEDDING BANDS This latest evolution brings ever&ever® flexibility to the entire bridal set.

The ever&ever® wedding band offering includes— • Marketing collateral to help you sell • Modular displays that allow for more flexibility and integrate with other Stuller band selling solutions • Multiple choices of prototype options available • More customization options than ever before L EARN M O R E A T STULLER .C O M / EV ER A N D EV ER .

Visit us at JCK LAS VEGAS BOOTHS B60046 AND B62046

Featured styles: 122107, 123213, and TAR51906

Stuller.com/everandever

800 877 7777

28

JUNE 2018

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

JEWEL BOX 1

SHOWS Debuting at this month’s JCK show is the Las Vegas Estate Jewelry & Watch pavilion, designed to help retailers capitalize on the fast-growing market for pre-owned and antique jewels. “One of the difficulties in the jewelry business today is that if you try to sell the same manufactured goods as other jewelry stores, you run into real issues,” says Scott Diament, president and CEO of the Palm Beach Show Group, organizer of the pavilion. “It’s related to the internet, to knowledge being more universal, to manufacturers going direct to consumers—it’s all part of a pie that makes regular jewelry retailing very challenging. The side that’s a lot less challenging is the estate category.” The new area will host some 25 exhibitors.

1940s flower brooch in 18k rose gold with rubies and diamonds; price on request; Beneficial Estate Buyers; 800-5181137; beneficial estatebuyers.com

2

MAJORS

Herbert M. Bridge rose to the rank of rear admiral in the U.S. Navy. Yet if you talk to industry people about “Herb,” they’ll talk about his down-to-earth manner, his incredible memory for people, and the perpetual twinkle in his eye. Bridge (pictured), who died April 2 at age 93, had served in the Navy during World War II, after which his father, Ben, drafted him JCKONLINE.COM

into a job at his retail store. Five decades later, Ben Bridge Jeweler had grown into a huge chain. The business grabbed the attention of Warren Buffett, who purchased it in 2000. A commenter on JCKonline.com remembered Bridge as a true gentleman—the only person he ever knew who would send a thank-you note in response to a birthday card.

29

5

COLORED STONES 3

AUCTIONS

Another blue diamond, another record

It used to be that blue diamonds appeared at auction only once in a blue moon. But with the success of so many big blues at auction, we are seeing them more and more. On April 19, a 3.47 ct. fancy intense blue diamond ring sold for $6.7 million at Sotheby’s in New York City, setting a new record price of $1.92 million per carat for a fancy intense blue—and demonstrating, despite some recent setbacks, there’s still considerable life in the high-end jewelry auction market.

BREES: JOE ROBBINS/GETTY; EMERALD: VLADYSLAV YAVORSKYY

4

RETAILERS

For a decade, New Orleans Saints quarterback Drew Brees was a good customer of San Diego retailer CJ Charles Jewelers, buying $15 million in “investment-grade” colored diamonds. That is, until Brees (pictured) got them appraised and discovered that the jeweler was charging him a substantial markup. Now he’s suing

the retailer in San Diego court, in a case that could test many widespread jewelry business practices—including charging a markup and selling stones as an investment. The jeweler’s attorney, meanwhile, has shot back that Brees “should restrict his game-playing to the football field and refrain from bullying honest, hardworking businessmen.”

The biggest gemstone discovery in 100 years? That’s how dealer Simon Watt of Maysville, Ky.–based Mayer & Watt describes the 2-yearold Helo emerald deposit located in southern Ethiopia, near the town of Shakiso. As a distributor of Ethiopian goods mined by the Bu’a Obsa association, a tribal group of miners, Watt has good reason to promote the bright green gems from the unexpected source. But he’s hardly the only one singing the praises of the Ethiopian material (pictured), whose spinach-green hue is being compared to fine Colombian emeralds. “The stones now coming from this deposit are simply amazing in terms of color, brightness, cleanliness, and desirability!” says gem expert and author Antoinette Matlins. Of course, like all new finds, they come with a disclaimer: while supplies last.

JUNE 2018

FROM THE EDITOR

30

S

Sterling silver 20 mm three-letter script monogram charm bracelet; $405; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com JUNE 2018

WHILE THE REST of the world knows June as a month of graduation ceremonies and weddings, members of the jewelry trade know better. If it’s the sixth month of the year, we must be in Las Vegas.

To help you navigate the madness of Mandalay Bay, don’t miss “The ABCs of JCK” on page 150. Written by managing editor Melissa Rose Bernardo—a pun-master if ever there was one—the A-to-Z guide hits all the highlights of the 2018 edition, the last one to take place on this end of the Strip before the show returns to the Sands Expo and Convention Center in 2019.

As usual, we’re celebrating the occasion with copious amounts of diamonds. “Ice Queen” on page 108, our annual ode to the colorless rocks that power our industry—featuring jewels sourced from JCK and LUXURY exhibitors—is a good place to begin. But our obsession with the business of bling doesn’t end there.

In “Chain Reaction” (page 116), news director Rob Bates delves into blockchain technology to decipher what the newfangled tracking protocol means for the diamond trade, while senior editor Emili Vesilind explores diamond jewelry marketing in the age of #MeToo in “Women in Love (With Diamonds)” (page 140).

We’re equally besotted with period jewels, not only for their one-of-a-kind good looks, but also for their profit-making potential. If you’ve ever wondered how to take advantage of the latter, “Estate Secrets” (page 118) by JCK ’s

Amy Elliott is a primer on how to get started in the estate jewelry business, complemented by some of the prettiest images we’ve ever featured (courtesy of photographer Kenji Toma).

Despite the issue’s emphasis on unforgettable imagery, we’ve reserved plenty of space for serious topics. “Cybercrime: Is Your Store at Risk?” (page 126) by contributor Stephanie Vozza is essential reading if you want to make sure your business doesn’t fall victim to cyberscammers (mahalo to Brian Kei of Native Hands Jewelry Hawaii for loaning us the gold fishhook pendant that illustrates the piece!).

Next we have a doubleheader: “New in Town” (page 128) by longtime jewelry journalist Whitney Sielaff explains why now may be the perfect time to open a second or third location, and “Final Sale” (page 130) by Amanda Baltazar details what retailers must consider before closing their stores for good.

Timing is, of course, everything—especially in “The Amazing Face” (page 132), my recap of the season’s most relevant watch trends (think sensible, straightforward styles).

We close out this jam-packed June issue with “There’s No Cure Like Travel” (page 144) by contributor Kristin Young, a compendium of travel tips from 15 of our favorite jewelers, just in time for summer vacation. Whether you’re attending JCK Las Vegas in real life or living it up vicariously through our Instagram feed (@jckmagazine), you definitely deserve one.

JCKONLINE.COM

BRACELET: PHOTOGRAPH BY LIAM GOODMAN; PROP STYLIST: ELIZABETH PRESS/JUDY CASEY PORTRAIT: PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

how me up!

32

JUNE 2018

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 1

Jen ear wraps with 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $2,250; Melissa Kaye; sales@melissakaye jewelry.com; melissa kayejewelry.com

3 2

Stackable ring with 0.11 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $590; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com

Tori diamond pendant and chain in 18k white gold; $2,415; Julez Bryant; 760-931-1416; julezbryant.com

5 PIECE MAKERS What JCK magazine’s AMY ELLIOTT is loving this month

4

Diamond Mosaic Curve necklace with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $1,150; KC Designs; 800-552-3790; kcdesigns.com

“I’m a huge fan of fine jewelry that looks way more expensive than it actually is.

Especially when diamonds are involved!” —Amy Elliott, JCK contributor JCKONLINE.COM

Omega Spiral bracelet with 0.14 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k gold; $2,100; Royal Chain Group; 212-382-3340; royalchain.com

FROM THE PUBLISHER

W

From the fantastic food to the amazing music, Nashville proved an ideal Conclave setting.

elcome to Las Vegas!

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com JUNE 2018

HARD TO BELIEVE, but it’s time for JCK Las Vegas and the magazine’s big June issue.

It’s going to be an exciting show!

This week always brings together an amazing combination of commerce and community. For many businesses, annual revenues hinge on how they perform this week. For many organizations, the events that occur here are the most important of the year. For all of us, it’s a terrific opportunity to see old friends from around the world and immerse ourselves in the jewelry community.

Speaking of community, I’ve just finished my visit to the annual American Gem Society Conclave, held this year in Nashville. It was an outstanding edition, from keynotes to breakout sessions, dinners out to honky-tonk music.

Congratulations to Katherine Bodoh, CEO of AGS, on an amazing event. (Katherine was actually at home in Las Vegas with her

newborn daughter, so double congrats!)

A highlight of Conclave was one of those exceptional moments that our industry provides: a private performance by Nashville band the Time Jumpers, with a very special appearance by Vince Gill! Harmon Group, Jewelers Mutual Insurance, the Gordon Co., and the Diamond Council of America were our generous hosts. They invited 250 lucky guests to an off-the-radar performance space called 3rd & Lindsley Bar & Grill. It was a true “Nashville moment.” Many thanks to Rick Arnemann, Scott Murphy, Jeff Gordon, and Terry Chandler for a wonderful night.

As always, it was a pleasure to mingle with so many friends from the retail and manufacturing worlds. I look forward to seeing all of you again at the JCK show.

Here’s wishing you a fun and financially successful time in Vegas!

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; NASHVILLE: F11PHOTO/GETTY

34

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

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© THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 149 YEARS!

AGTA Gemfair Las Vegas 2018 at Mandalay Bay – BOOTH 211 Find delicious color that won’t stick to your teeth. Grab a handful and stack them high.

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com U.S. ADVERTISING SALES

EDITORIAL CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com Senior Editor / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

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FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHIHART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors KEVIN CREMENS, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN, KEN GUNMAKER, ETHAN HILL, NICOLE LAMOTTE, STEPHEN LEWIS, MARK LUND, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, GAVIN O’NEILL, CODY PICKENS, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS, PATRIC SHAW, JOEL STANS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENJI TOMA, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK PUBLISHED FOR REED EXHIBITIONS BY

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, LUXURY, JIS) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com

Visit us at Luxury by JCK • LUX635 For an appointment call 888.674.8340 or email appointments@graymoorlanedesigns.com www.graymoorlanedesigns.com Graymoor Lane Designs is a division of Artistry, Ltd.

INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305 cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com

ISRAEL ITZCHAK ARIKHA P.O. Box 3237, Ramat Gan 52131, Israel 972-3-751-2165/6, fax 972-3-575-2201 galisaac@zahav.net.il THAILAND BUSABA THAWEEPHOON Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7374, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell +66 96 725 1525 busaba.thaw@reedtradex.co.th

CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Industry Vice President KATIE DOMINESEY 203-840-5470 kdominesey@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Renewals & Sponsorships: Clockwork, Essentials & Tech, Security, Retail Experience, Gallery, Bridge, Sterling, First Look (M–Z), Vicenza 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive ANA CROSBY Renewals & Sponsorships: Currents, Diamond Plaza, Lab-Grown Diamond, Bridal, Key Accounts, First Look (A–L) 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com

Special Events and Conference Director KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive ALEXANDRA WURSTER International Companies & Pavilions (New & Returning); JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive DANA KARP New Companies (A–L), Security; JCK magazine 203-840-5687 dkarp@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive BARBARA MURRAY New Companies (M–Z), Retail Experience 203-840-5305 bmurray@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Bridge (Renewals); JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager CHADAÉ BOWLER 203-840-5845 cbowler@reedjewelrygroup.com

L U X U R Y & S W I S S W AT C H E V E N T S Industry Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com

Visit us at Luxury by JCK • LUX635 Celebrating 35 Years

For an appointment call 888.674.3250 or email info@artistrylimited.com www.artistrylimited.com

Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com

Marketing Manager MOLLY FITZPATRICK 203-840-5379 mfitzpatrick@reedjewelrygroup.com

Special Events and Conference Director KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET LUXURY 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design @ LUXURY 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager HANNAH CONNORTON 203-840-5492 hconnorton@reedjewelrygroup.com

Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;My name is Jim Russell, owner of Stein Jewelry, founded in 1923 in Madison, Mississippi. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a native of Mississippi and got into the jewelry business because it was a family business, and I wanted to continue the traditions of the store.

I have been running the store for approximately forty-two years.

5IFSF XFSF UXP SFBTPOT UIBU QSPNQUFE VT UP IBWF UIF TBMF 5IF m STU XBT UIBU * had no one in my family who wanted to continue in the business. Secondly, it was time for my wife and I to step back and enjoy ourselves and do the things we have always wanted to do.

I had heard of Wilkerson for years, and when I decided to explore the possibilities of this sale, I spoke not only with Wilkerson but with two other m SNT XIP DPOEVDU UIJT TBNF UZQF PG TBMF *O NZ SFTFBSDI * CFDBNF WFSZ comfortable with the Wilkerson team and the plans they had. The way they explained how we could conduct the sale was what I wanted.

The things Wilkerson did were very innovative and never seen in this market.

The timing of the advertising as the sale progressed was just perfect.

Our onsite consultants were perfect, and we could not have done it without them. Keith and Debby have been with us every step of the way. Keith was one of the best salesmen I have ever been in contact with. Debby worked NPTUMZ JO UIF CBDL XJUI PVS m OBODJBM SFDPSET TP XF LOFX FWFSZ TUFQ PG UIF way exactly where we were with the sale.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The bottom line is we could not have done it without the entire Wilkerson team.â&#x20AC;?

Jim Russell Stein Jewelry Madison, MS

The bottom line is we could not have done it without the entire Wilkerson team. There is no way we could have pulled this off by ourselves. As owners, it is not what our expertise is or what we do on a day to day basis, and the same is true for most owners. However, it is what the Wilkerson team does daily. We strongly recommend Wilkerson to anyone doing a sale.â&#x20AC;?

-Jim Russell

Visit us at The Plumb Club 370 at JCK

Contact us today for a free consultation!

Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999.

Or visit us at wilkersons.com.

Proudly made in the USA Since 1951

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

INSIDER

DID YOU KNOW?

Vegas consumes 60,000 pounds of shrimp per day—more than the rest of the U.S. combined.

JCK LAS VEGAS runs June 1–4.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT lasvegas.jckonline.com

World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry Visit Us at the JCK Las Vegas Show

516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com

JULES GOLD Meet industry veteran, JCK newbie, and selfproclaimed “desert rat” Julie Romanenko, the designer behind the awesomely named Just Jules brand, who’s exhibiting in Design@LUXURY. She adores opals, loves vintage jewelry, and says she’s influenced by “the tranquil beauty” of her hometown, Scottsdale, Ariz. For the full interview, visit jckinsider.com/design-of-the-times.

On JCK Insider, JCK contributing editor Brittany Siminitz shares her obsession with the Design Center at JCK Las Vegas, along with a few choice pieces from exhibitors including the Rock Hound (top) and Trésor Collection (above). Hey, Brittany, we’re obsessed too!

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckmagazine ON INSTAGRAM.

(TOP) MARGOUILLAT PHOTO/ISTOCK/GETTY

GRAND DESIGN

The Best Private Label Story in the Business

“Thirty items in ninety days was proof-postive that we had been neglecting our core diamond basics!”

Robin Johannes, Johannes Hunter Jewelers

“In a very short time, VIBHOR has become one of our top vendors!”

Joe Lucido, Lucido Fine Jewelers

“The jewelry is like velvet.

The delivery time, awesome!”

Kevin Main, Kevin Main Jewelry Design & Studio

“VIBHOR has energized our store and outlook with great results!”

Brad Hart, Hausers Fine Jewelers

VIBHOR CORE DIAMOND ESSENTIALS

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CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

ONLINE

@JCKMagazine JCKmagazine @jckmagazine @jckmagazine

INSTAGEM FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH We admit we’re tooting our own horn, but if you’re #JCKBound, follow JCK Events (@jckevents) for from-the-floor shots and gem-filled product pics from your favorite exhibitors. And while you’re at Mandalay Bay, don’t forget to tag your own pics #JCKLasVegas. See you at the show!

Shoot me down, I won’t fall! This Andreoli brooch is titanium.

Who wouldn’t say ”I do” to a handful of Henri Daussi rings?

A sweet stack of Nina Nguyen gemstone bracelets

Only Omi Privé could do a pearshape sapphire like this.

Going for all the gold at Rivka Friedman

Showing a slice of (diamond) life at Vivaan

“The point of jewelry…is to be beautiful.

People will not buy it unless they love the way it looks. It’s great if it’s environmentally friendly, but it’s an added bonus.”

—JCKonline reader Dana on “Dell Computers Enters Jewelry Industry With Recycled Gold Line”

JCKONLINE.COM

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SOCIAL DIARY

CONCLAVE 2018

44

1

Robert M. Shipley Award winner Doug Hucker, CEO of the American Gem Trade Association, with wife Marcia and their son, Douglas

3

Outgoing AGS board president Scott Berg with new president John Carter of Jack Lewis Jewelers

Heller Jewelers’ Scott and Catherine Heller at a bash hosted by the Diamond Council of America, the Gordon Co., Harmon Group, and Jewelers Mutual Insurance

2

MUSIC CITY SCENESTERS

4

AGS director of marketing Donna Jolly with keynote speaker and professional guitarist Mike Rayburn

JUNE 2018

5

Conclave chair Alexis Padis of San Francisco’s Padis Jewelers with keynote speaker Jon Dorenbos

6 7

JCK’s Isabel Cajulis, Ashi Diamonds’ Ash Shah, and G.K. Group’s Anna Samsonova

The President’s Party on closing night was a little bit country…and a little bit rock ’n’ roll.

JCKONLINE.COM

HELLERS: JOSKA BORBELY/HARMON; OTHERS: COURTESY OF THE AMERICAN GEM SOCIETY

Nashville hosted the American Gem Society April 23–25 for a Conclave marked by good food, great tunes, and next-level networking

/8;

DO YOUR DIAMONDS C O N S U M E R S T O D AY I N C R E A S I N G LY W A N T T O K N O W A B O U T THE PROVENANCE OF THEIR DIAMONDS.

R I O T I N T O â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S C H A I N O F C U S T O DY P R O G R A M P R O M I S E S D I A M O N D S T H AT A R E R E S P O N S I B LY S O U R C E D F R O M T H E A R G Y L E A N D D I AV I K D I A M O N D M I N E S . T H E S E E X Q U I S I T E N AT U R A L T R E A S U R E S A R E P A I N S TA K I N G LY TRACKED THROUGHOUT THE CUTTING, POLISHING AND JEWELRY M A N U F A C T U R I N G P R O C E S S T O E N S U R E T H E I R A U T H E N T I C I T Y.

TELL A STORY? V I S I T O N E O F T H E R I O T I N T O S E L EC T D I A M A N TA I R E S T O L E A R N M O R E :

B60070 / BRIDAL

B41141 / DIAMOND PLAZA

P C- 5 6 0 / P L U M B C L U B

S10705 / CURRENTS

ASIAN STAR

DIANCO

DIAROUGH (UNI-DESIGN)

KGK INTERNATIONAL

P C- 4 7 0 / P L U M B C L U B

B52047 / DIAMOND PLAZA

B55027 / DIAMOND PLAZA

B53017 / DIAMOND PLAZA

KP SANGHVI & SONS LLP (KP SANGHVI INC.)

SHEETAL GROUP

SHREE RAMKRISHNA EXPORTS

VENUS JEWEL

B50013 / DIAMOND PLAZA

B53030 / DIAMOND PLAZA

B56063 / DIAMOND PLAZA

B48133 / HONG KONG

HARI KRISHNA EXPORTS (H.K. DESIGNS)

KIRAN EXPORTS

KAPU GEMS

PRISM GROUP

D I A M O N D S W I T H A S T O R Y. C O M

@DIAMONDSWITHASTORY

47

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JUNE 2018

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS What’s Clicking on JCKonline

The top stories for April. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline. com/newsletters/subscribe.

1

Rosy Blue Takes Minority Position in Leo Schachter Two diamond powerhouses— one from India, one from Israel—are teaming up.

2

The Greatest Gem Find in 100 Years?

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky gives the scoop on Ethiopian emeralds.

3

One-Third of Consumers Favor Engagement Rings That Cost Less Than $1,000 A survey by CreditDonkey. com shows that consumers don’t want to spend much for jewelry.

COURTESY OF THE AMERICAN GEM SOCIETY

4

5

Nine West, Owner of the Jewelry Group, Files for Chapter 11 The footwear brand has filed for bankruptcy protection, and now its owners want to focus on its profitable jewelry division.

NASHVILLE STARS The American Gem Society does the Tennessee waltz at its annual Conclave

BY ROB BATES

T

Jeweler on the Grill for Alleged Dental Work Without License A Florida jeweler has been charged with making grills for clients without the proper dental license.

JCKONLINE.COM

Conclave keynote speaker Marie Osmond

HE MOOD WAS upbeat as the country music twanged at the American Gem Society’s 2018 Conclave, held at the Omni Hotel in Nashville, Tenn., from April 23 to 25.

After a generally positive holiday season and solid start to the year, just about all the retailers in attendance seemed in a good mood as they met in Music City for three days of education and socializing.

The event featured a different date pattern than in years past (running from Monday to Wednesday, rather than Wednesday to Friday), but otherwise it bore the standard Conclave formula of useful sessions and high-powered celebrity speakers combined with large amounts of camaraderie and insider jokes.

Keynote speaker Marie Osmond opened the event with a candid and sometimes emotional recounting of her entertainment career peaks and personal valleys. She began by confessing she was a fan of the industry.

NEWS GEMS

THE SCOOP “I flippin’ love jewelry,” she declared. “What a great profession you all have chosen. You make people happy, and you make them beautiful and feel beautiful.”

She then relayed her struggles with postpartum depression and near-bankruptcy, all of which left her “emotionally damaged enough that I could legitimately sing country music.”

She advised the industry to follow her “five Cs” in life: Champion (“Be great to people, genuinely care about them”); Credibility (“Be a foundation of strength for others to follow”); Collaboration (Work with great people); Check your gut (Follow your instincts); and finally, never forget to Chuckle.

Another keynote speaker, world-class guitarist Mike Rayburn, implored attendees to dream big.

“When you come up against the impossible, that’s a great time to say,

‘But what if?’ ” he said. “What if there’s something good about your biggest challenge? What if you took that challenge and forced yourself to come up with answers?”

On the event’s final day, Doug Hucker, CEO of the American Gem Trade Association, was presented with the Robert M. Shipley Award, the AGS’ highest honor.

“This is probably one of the proudest moments of my life,” said Hucker, who choked up upon receiving the surprise award. He hailed the AGS as “an organization that believes in ethics and education, but it is also about friendship.”

The group also elected John Carter, owner of Jack Lewis Jewelers in Bloomington, Ill., as its new president.

The society’s 2019 Conclave will be held April 8–10 in Seattle. (Additional reporting by Victoria Gomelsky)

“The key for me is to inject some freshness, some newness, some excitement in the store. Nowadays consumers are more demanding. It’s not enough to have a beautiful store. If you have a beautiful store and I’ve been to it three or four times, why should I come to the store when I can buy the same product [online]?”

—Tiffany CEO Alessandro Bogliolo on a conference call, talking about changes in the luxury mindset

$1 BILLION

AMOUNT OF GROSS MATERIAL SALES ETSY MADE IN THE FOURTH QUARTER OF 2017. THAT MARKS THE CRAFT MARKETPLACE’S FIRST BILLION-DOLLAR QUARTER.

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

Q&A

49

3 Questions for...

KRISTIN CHERRY JACKSON KRISTIN CHERRY JACKSON, the former Amazon.com senior category merchant manager for jewelry, recently joined industry consultancy 21C Jewelry Solutions.

Here, she talks about the e-giantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plans for jewelry and what third-party sellers need to look out for if they sell on the platform. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;RB Does Amazon consider jewelry a growth area?

In Amazonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s opinion, everything is a growth area. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about being a one-stop shop, and if it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have something, it has failed.

fine jewelry, they have to send samples to Amazon, which are sent to a gem lab. Many times, the sellers arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t aware of the quality of their product.

There is a significant failure rate.

If for some reason there is a discrepancy [between the item and its

A popular Amazon p brand: Satya (womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rose quartz gold lotus stretch bracelet set; $129)

description], that puts sellers at risk, particularly if Amazon finds egregious discrepancies. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not uncommon for sellers to be suspended. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen big sellers suspended, because Amazon doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t play favorites. And if that happens, they have to reapply,

and that includes a $5,000 fee for a big seller. Though for a lot of sellers, the fee is not the pain point. The painful part is not being able to sell on Amazon for a few weeks.

Fine Jewelry Displays

How does Amazon persuade consumers to buy jewelry online, when a lot of people consider it a not particularly glamorous way to buy jewelry?

Amazon Retail uses beautiful packing for jewelry. [Third-party] sellers often donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, though. I have seen so many items in poly bags. That is poor presentation, and the onus for that is on the seller. Sellers can set themselves apart by taking control of their detail pages and their packaging, and writing professional listings. Those things really make a difference in selling items.

Is quality assurance important when selling on Amazon?

Sellers need to understand that their quality could be under scrutiny at any time. Even before a seller is able to sell JCKONLINE.COM

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 ,,,- >Z`e^ Kh\d ;eo]' Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com

NEWS GEMS

50

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

COMINGS AND GOINGS

Fleur Bloom Starburst disc pendant necklace; $395; Freida Rothman; sales@ freidarothman.com; freidarothman.com

Susan Rutenberg

Jewelry brand Freida Rothman has appointed Sudeep Arya director of e-commerce and Susan Rutenberg marketing manager. Arya was previously director of e-commerce

development and digital marketing and creative for David Yurman. Rutenberg was the marketing and communications director at Furla USA. Pandora has hired Karl Walsh as its senior vice president of global e-commerce. He was previously associate director for digital and e-commerce for Boston Consulting Group.

Minna Philipson, Pandora’s former senior vice president of global marketing, is leaving the company.

Blue Nile has named Katie Zimmerman, former vice

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NEWS GEMS

I&P

president of merchandising for Zale Corp., as its chief merchandising officer. Kari Gray-Hoff, the e-tailer’s former director of merchandising, has left the company.

Following the retirement of Anthony Capuano, the Jewelers Board of Trade has appointed Richard Weisenfeld president. Weisenfeld has served on the JBT board of directors for 17 years. The group has chosen Rocket president Michael L. Kaplan as chairman.

Annie Doresca, former director of finance and administration for Jewelers of America, has been promoted to chief financial officer of the group, including affiliates National Jeweler and Diamond Council of America. Laura D’Angelo has been hired as JA’s digital content coordinator.

Annie Doresca

Michael L. Kaplan Birks Group has appointed Aurélie Pépion vice president

of omnichannel sales and operations. She was recently managing director for Swarovski’s Canadian consumer goods business.

Online consignment company The RealReal has hired Jun-Sheng Li, former senior vice president of e-commerce supply chain at Walmart, as its new chief operating officer. Len Eschweiler, a former sales leadership officer at Affirm and Amazon, will serve as chief revenue officer.

Uneek Jewelry has named Cortland Shopper vice presi-

dent of sales. He joined Uneek in 2017 and was previously sales director of Gregg Ruth.

Phil Edelstein

Cortland Shopper

JCKONLINE.COM

Novell Group has appointed Phil Edelstein as sales manager for its Novell Design Studio division.

He previously worked for Lieberfarb, Richline, Aurafin, and Quality Gold.

NEWS GEMS

I&P

Aura princesscut diamond engagement ring in platinum; price on request; De Beers; 212-906-0001; debeers.com

Northeastern Fine Jewelry

recruited longtime local jeweler Dennis Connelly to join the retail team at its Albany, N.Y., location. He previously owned Connelly’s Diamond Gallery, a store based in Latham, N.Y. Jared Sadowsky Jared Sadowsky is joining MDJ Advantage as regional

sales consultant, covering the state of Pennsylvania.

Veteran watch journalist Roberta Naas has joined online marketplace TrueFacet as executive editor. She has more than 30 years’ experience writing about the industry.

LEGAL Frank Lashvili, a jeweler from

River Vale, N.J., was arrested and charged with two counts of fencing and two counts of receiving stolen property.

STORES Jared the Galleria of Jewelry

is debuting a nationwide program that will allow customers to trade in their luxury watches for cash or store credit.

The program is being run in conjunction with Crown & Caliber, an online marketplace for pre-owned timepieces.

Carol Pennelli David Yurman has appointed Carol Pennelli, formerly the company’s chief commercial officer, to the position of president.

She will oversee all the company’s functions other than design and creative.

the miner’s retail chain, has opened three new stores—one in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, the company’s first in that country, and two stores in Moscow.

La Vita Vital, a by-appointment

workshop that operated in downtown Los Angeles’ jewelry district for decades, has moved its operations to L.A.-adjacent Orange County.

JCKONLINE.COM

PENNELLI: BILLY FARRELL/PATRICK MCMULLAN VIA GETTY IMAGES

De Beers Diamond Jewellers,

NEWS GEMS

GEM PRICING

INDUSTRY ROCK STAR: ETHIOPIAN EMERALD RESULTS FROM THE first quarter support a generally positive outlook heading into JCK Las Vegas. Colored-stone dealers say buyers are shopping for a variety of gems, continuing a trend seen in Tucson. Garnet, spinel, and tourmaline are particularly noteworthy in this regard. Blue and fancy colored sapphires are seeing good demand. Yet several dealers cautioned that extra-fine-quality, no-heat sapphires above 3 cts. are a challenge to source, and prices reflect that. Ethiopian emerald continues to generate excitement across the industry.

Dealers report a good appetite for the crisp, bright color of the Ethiopian material among both high-end designers and traditional independent retailers. Prices have been firming in response to the demand; most agree the gem is now priced comparably to Zambian emerald. This translates to a 20 percent price jump for Ethiopian emerald since the Tucson shows.

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant

FINE

Alexandrite

G

$6,800

$6,320

$5,700

$4,720

H

$6,080

$5,800

$5,450

$4,470

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

Orange Spessartite Garnet I

$5,700

$5,200

$4,950

$4,000

J

$4,900

$4,500

$4,080

$3,760

1 to under 2 cts.

$200–$300

$350–$380

2 to under 3 cts.

$225–$350

$400–$450

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round

Rubellite Tourmaline

G

$3,570

$3,200

$2,700

$2,340

H

$3,200

$3,000

$2,600

$2,270

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$150

$200–$300

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$200

$275–$375

Tsavorite Garnet I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant

1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)

G

$12,200

$11,300

$9,350

$7,600

H

$10,300

$10,000

$8,300

$7,150

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I

$9,700

$7,900

$7,600

$6,725

J

$7,200

$7,300

$6,400

$6,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut

Pink Sapphire (heated)

G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

$6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

1 to under 3 cts.

$475–$900

$975–$1,800

3 to under 5 cts.

$600–$1,200

$1,500–$2,400

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$80

$135–$170

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$155–$185

Blue Zircon

J

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

54

JUNE 2018

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR INTERNATIONAL

U.S.

• MAY

• MAY

26–27

25–27

MINERALS BRNO

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

Brno, Czech Republic

intergem.com

June Birthstone

toteshows.com

28–29

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD

LAS VEGAS GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Las Vegas glda.com

31–JUNE 3

LAS VEGAS ANTIQUE JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW Las Vegas vegasantique jewelry.com

31–JUNE 4 AGTA GEMFAIR LAS VEGAS

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW St. Paul, Minn. intergem.com

LAS VEGAS BEAD RENAISSANCE Las Vegas wholebead.com

SAN ANTONIO PREMIER WHOLESALE, JEWELRY, GIFT & ACCESSORIES SHOW San Antonio parkertradeshow.com

Las Vegas agta.org

COUTURE Las Vegas thecoutureshow.com

• JUNE 1–3

GEM FAIRE Tulsa, Okla. gemfaire.com

Tel Aviv, Israel stier.co.il/jovella/en

JUBINALE

PEARL

Kraków, Poland

Galaxy hoop earrings with 11 mm x 12 mm natural-color Tahitian pearls and 0.28 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $3,735; Tara; 888-575-TARA; tarapearls.com

8–10

jubinale.com

Las Vegas

28–31

JOVELLA

7–9

Salem, Va.

3–4

DENVER APPAREL & ACCESSORY MARKET Denver denverapparel market.com

3–10

BEAD & BUTTON SHOW Milwaukee beadandbutton show.com

6–9

DALLAS APPAREL & ACCESSORIES MARKET Dallas

2–3

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Louisville, Ky. americanbead shows.com

NORTON’S APPAREL, JEWELRY AND GIFT SHOW Gatlinburg, Tenn. nortonshows.com

JUNE MARKET DAY Hudson, Mass. northeastmarket center.com

23–24

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Birmingham, Ala. americanbead shows.com

15–17

gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

charlottegiftshow.com

Los Angeles

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD

Houston intergem.com

22–24

FLORIDA JEWELRY & APPAREL EXPO

Miami iwjg.com

GEM FAIRE

GEM FAIRE

Eugene, Ore.

[PRE]COTERIE / FAME / MODA / ACCESSORIES THE SHOW

29–JULY 1

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

masterpiecefair.com

Hyderabad, India hyderabad. jewelleryfair.in

20–22 JOYA

Mexico City expojoya.com.mx/ expo.joya.enero

• JULY 6–9

CAMBODIA INTERNATIONAL GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR + WEDDING Phnom Penh, Cambodia jewelrytradefair. com/cambodia/2018

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Marlborough, Mass. intergem.com

OKLAHOMA SUMMER BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW

SEE YOU THERE! LUXURY MAY 30–JUNE 4

gemfaire.com

Oklahoma City

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

7–8

JUNE 1–4

Atlanta

JIS EXCHANGE

San Diego gemfaire.com

London

HYDERABAD JEWELLERY, PEARL, AND GEM FAIR

intergem.com

25–26

9–10

10–12

Portland, Ore.

Charlotte, N.C.

gtshows.com

americanbead shows.com

GEM FAIRE

28– JULY 4

MASTERPIECE LONDON

6–8

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

CHARLOTTE GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW

Salt Lake City

Kissimmee, Fla.

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

• JULY gemfaire.com

23–25

GEM FAIRE

dallasmarket center.com

Nashville, Tenn.

2–4

11

Hong Kong

26–27

• JUNE

ROANOKE VALLEY SPRING GEM & MINERAL SHOW

HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR exhibitions. jewellerynet.com/ 6jg/en-us

bvv.cz/en/ minerals-brno

Novi, Mich.

iwjg.com

21–24

Timonium, Md. intergem.com

Denver

aksshow.com

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW americanbead shows.com

intergem.com

JCK LAS VEGAS

JUNE 1–4

SWISS WATCH

New York City

JUNE 1–4

ubmfashion.com

JCKONLINE.COM

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6833257#7+2567(15,1*6 &20

A GUIDE TO PLATINUM 2018

Lasting Radiance Stuller.com/Holiday | cov3

Anniversary and Eternity Bands

Full Sprea

B

C

A

cov4 |

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits

A. 86834 Diamond Starburst Earrings, 1⁄3 CTW, 12.2×10.7mm, Platinum, 32, $1,825 per pair. Mounting 86834, $465 each. | B. 86837 Genuine Blue Sapphire, Blue Zircon, Aquamarine, and Diamond Necklace, 6×4mm center, 0.06 CTW, 13.9×8.3mm, Platinum, 67, 46, 26, 45, 32, 16”, $1,675.

Mounting 86837, $609. | C. 86812 Genuine Blue Sapphire and Diamond Bar Necklace, 6×4mm, 1⁄10 CTW, 27.5×5.2mm, Platinum, 67, 32, 18”, $1,259. | D. 29860 4-Prong Square Halo-Style Peg Setting, 1 CT center (5.5×5.5mm), 1⁄4 CTW, 7.3mm height, Platinum, 33, $1,115. Mounting 29860, $349.

E. SH707 Diamond-Accented Shank for Peg Setting, 0.08 CTW, 2.3mm span, 2.5×3.8mm shoulder, Platinum, 33, $1,125. Mounting SH707, $899. | F. 123580 Round-Shape French-Set Halo-Style Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $4,185.

Mounting 123580, $1,515. | G. 123574 Diamond Circle Ring, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,975. Mounting 123574, $1,119.

H. FIR10 Flat Comfort-Fit Band, 6mm width, Platinum, size 10, $2,459 .

Anniversary and Eternity Bands

ad Beauty

Shop our vast assortment of diamonds at Stuller.com/Diamonds.

D

F

E

G

H

Why Platinum?

Every great work of art has to start somewhere. And when you make your jewelry with platinum, you are giving yourself the best foundation possible. As the strongest and most durable precious metal, platinum will ensure the security of your stones.

When you set in Stuller platinum, you can be sure that every piece you create will be a masterpiece. For more information, visit Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits.

Stone Codes: 26 Genuine Marquise Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural | 32 Genuine Diamond SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural 33 Genuine Diamond (Round), I1, G-H | 43 Genuine Amethyst, AA | 45 Genuine Aqua, AA 46 Genuine Blue Zircon, AA | 67 Genuine Blue Sapphire, AA

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits | cov5

Shining Light When love lasts forever, you need a ring that will too.

A

C B

D

A. 123744 Matching Diamond Band, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,899. Mounting 123744, $1,255. | B. 123721 Round-Shape Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,409. Mounting 123721, $1,539. | C. 123721 Matching Diamond Band, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,069. Mounting 123721, $1,449. | D. 51794 Domed Band with Infinity Front View, 6mm width, Platinum, size 10, $3,575 4 | Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits

Engagement Rings

E

H

L Available center stone shapes:

F

J

M Available center stone shapes:

G

K Available center stone shapes:

E. 123260 Round-Shape Three-Stone Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 5⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $4,175. Mounting 123260, $1,229.

N Available center stone shapes:

H. 123447 Round-Shape Three-Stone Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $7,759. Mounting 123447, $1,115.

L. 123699 Round-Shape Three-Stone Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,755. Mounting 123699, $1,195.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:903057:G, 1 CT, G, SI2.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:903045:G, 1 CT, H, SI1.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:903056:G, 1 CT, F, SI2.

123260 Matching Diamond Band, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,485. Mounting 123260, $985.

123447 Matching Diamond Band, 1⁄3 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,715. Mounting 123447, $885.

123700 Matching Diamond Band, 1⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,249 Mounting 123700, $715.

F. 123689 Round-Shape Three-Stone Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 3⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $6,525. Mounting 123689, $1,075.

M. 122105, Oval-Shape Three-Stone Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (8×6mm), 3⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $5,705. Mounting 122105 $1,335.

123689 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $635

J. 123605 Emerald-Shape Three-Stone Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 13⁄4 CT center (8×6mm), 1⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 241, size 7, $5,225. Mounting 123605, $1,035.

Show with LDIA-GEN:900641:G, I3⁄4 CT, H, SI1.

123605 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $619.

G. 123479 Round-Shape Three-Stone Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 242, 32, size 7, $6,685. Mounting 123479, $1,625.

K. 123516 Square-Shape Three-Stone Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (5.5×5.5mm), 1⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 35, 32, size 7, $3,635. Mounting 123516, $1,499.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:903044:G, 1 CT, G, SI1.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:901886:G, 1 CT, G, SI1.

123479 Matching Diamond Band, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,339. Mounting 123479, $799.

123516 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $765.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:903058:G, 1 CT, G, SI2.

Stone Codes: 32 Genuine Diamond (Round) SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural | 35 Genuine Diamond (Square Princess) SI2-SI3, G-H, Natural 117 Genuine Diamond (Pear) SI2-SI3, G-H | 241 Genuine Diamond (Trapezoid) SI1, G-H | 242 Genuine Diamond (Half Moon) SI, G-I

Shown with LDIA-GEN:901463:G, 1 CT, H, SI2.

51226 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $989.

N. 123480 Round-Shape Three-Stone Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 5⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 117, 32, size 7, $4,265. Mounting 123480, $1,185.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:903046:G, 1 CT, I, SI1.

123480 Matching Diamond Band, 1⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,555. Mounting 123480, $935.

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits | 5

Engagement Rings

A

D

G Available center stone shapes:

B

E

H Available center stone shapes:

Available center stone shapes:

C

F

A. 123548 Round-Shape Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 0.04 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,015.

D. 123713 Oval-Shape Solitaire Engagement Ring, 1 CT stone (8×6mm), Platinum, size 7. $1,265.

Mounting 123548, $1,039. Shown with LDIA-GEN:903005:G, 1 CT, G, I1.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:901462:G, 1 CT, G, SI2.

123548 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $599

51858 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $1,065

B. 123018 Emerald-Shape Solitaire Engagement Ring, 13⁄4 CT stone (8×6mm), Platinum, size 7, $1,345.

E. 123650 Cushion-Shape Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 2 CT stone (7×7mm), 0.03 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,429.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:900651:G, 13⁄4 CT, G, VS2.

Mounting 123650, $1,315. Shown with LDIA-GEN:906511:G, 2 CT, H, SI2.

51645 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $1,105

51841 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $895

C. 123217 Round-Shape Solitaire Engagement Ring, 1 CT stone (6.5mm), Platinum, size 7, $1,255.

F. 123679 Round-Shape Solitaire Engagement Ring, 1 CT stone (6.5mm), Platinum, size 7, $1,479.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:903055:G, 1 CT, E, SI2.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:903054:G, 1 CT, D, SI2.

123217 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $809

123679 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $1,045

6 |

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits

Available center stone shapes:

Available center stone shapes:

J

G. 123054 Round-Shape Solitaire Engagement Ring, 1 CT stone (6.5mm), Platinum, size 7, $945. Shown with LDIA-GEN:903006:G, 1 CT, H, I1.

51635 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $575 H. 123639 Oval-Shape Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (8×6mm), 0.025 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,489. Mounting 123639, $1,385.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:901454:G, 1 CT, H, SI1.

51840 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $1,079 J. 123739 Round-Shape Solitaire Engagement Ring, 1 CT stone (6.5mm), Platinum, size 7, $1,079. Shown with LDIA-GEN:903004:G, 1 CT, F, I1.

123739 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $865

Engagement Rings

K

N

R Available center stone shapes:

L

P

M

S

Q Available center stone shapes:

K. 123451 Round-Shape French-Set Halo-Style Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 3⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $3,455.

T Available center stone shapes:

N. 123449 Round-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄6 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,505.

Mounting 123451, $1,675. Shown with LDIA-GEN:903057:G, 1 CT, G, SI2.

Mounting 123449, $1,279. Shown with LDIA-GEN:903046:G, 1 CT, I, SI1.

123451 Matching French-Set Diamond Band, 1⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,439. Mounting 123451, $1,279.

123449 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $749

L. 123582 Round-Shape French-Set Halo-Style Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 3⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,315.

Mounting 123582, $1,095. Shown with LDIA-GEN:903058:G, 1 CT, G, SI2.

123582 Matching French-Set Diamond Band, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,455. Mounting 123582, $745.

M. 123583 Emerald-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Engagagement Ring, 13⁄4 CT center (8×6mm), 1⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 21, 32, size 7, $2,685.

Mounting 123583, $1,435. Show with LDIA-GEN:900641:G, 13⁄4 CT, H, SI1.

123583 Matching Diamond Band, 1⁄3 CTW, Platinum, 21, 32, size 7, $1,759. Mounting 123583, $1,079.

P. 123481 Round-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 3⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 241, 32, size 7, $6,989.

Mounting 123481, $1,439. Shown with LDIA-GEN:903045:G, 1 CT, H, SI1.

123481 Matching Diamond Band, 1⁄3 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,685. Mounting 123481, $975.

Q. 123725 Oval-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (8×6mm), 1⁄3 CTW, Platinum 32, size 7, $2,229.

Mounting 123725, $1,135. Shown with LDIA-GEN:901463:G, 1 CT, H, SI2.

123725 Matching Diamond Band, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,569. Mounting 123725, $835.

Available center stone shapes:

R. 123227 Round-Shape Halo-Style French-Set Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,545. Mounting 123227, $885.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:903055:G,1 CT, E, SI2.

123227 Matching French-Set Diamond Band, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,149. Mounting 123227, $595.

S. 123580 Round-Shape Halo-Style French-Set Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $4,185. Mounting 123580, $1,515.

Shown with LDIA-GEN:903056:G, 1 CT, F, SI2.

123580 Matching Diamond Band, 1⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,035. Mounting 123580, $725.

T. 123337 Pear-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 9⁄10 CT center (8×6mm), 1⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,769. Mounting 123337, $1,235.

Show with LDIA-GEN:902292:G, 13⁄4 CT, G, SI1.

51748 Matching Band, size 7, Platinum, $945

Stone Codes: 21 Genuine Diamond (Straight Baguette) SI2-SI3, G-I 32 Genuine Diamond SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural | 241 Genuine Trapezoid Diamond, SI1, G-H

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits | 7

Anniversary and Eternity Bands

Solid, Strong, and Secure

B

D

F

C E A

Because of platinum’s legendary strength, diamonds and gemstones held in these settings can withstand the test of time.

G

A. 29913 Round-Shape Semi-Set 4-Prong Low Base Setting, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 0.03 CTW, 6.3mm height, Platinum, 33, $469. Mounting 29913, $219. | B. SH706 Diamond-Accented French-Set Shank for Peg Setting, 1⁄4 CTW, 1.9×1.9mm shoulder, Platinum, 32, $1,369. Mounting SH706, $559. | C. SH697 Diamond-Accented Twisted Shank for Peg Setting, 1⁄6 CTW, 1.9×1.6mm shoulder, Platinum, 33, $1,165. Mounting SH697, $555. | D. Natural Diamond, Round, 1 CT. | E. Natural Diamond, Emerald, 11⁄2 CT | F. 29896 Emerald-Shape Split-Claw Prong Basket Setting, 11⁄4 CT (7×5mm), 5.8mm height, Platinum, $189 | G. 29874 Round-Shape Semi-Set Peg Setting, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄3 CTW, 7.9mm height, Platinum, 33, $1,135. Mounting 29874, $425.

Basket Settings

29913 Round-Shape Semi-Set 4-Prong Low Base Setting, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 0.03 CTW, 6.3mm height, Platinum, 33, $469.

Peg Settings

29904 Round-Shape Split-Claw Prong Basket Setting, 1 CT (6.5mm), 5.5mm height, Platinum, $155

Mounting 29913, $219.

29880 Round-Shape 6-Prong Fleur-de-Lis Low Base Setting, 1 CT (6.5mm), 6.5mm height, Platinum, $185

29895 Oval-Shape Split Claw Prong Basket Setting, 1 CT (8×6mm), 6.8mm height, Platinum, $239

29840 Round-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Peg Setting, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄3 CTW, 8.3mm height, Platinum, 33, $1,149.

29874 Round-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Peg Setting, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄3 CTW, 7.9mm height, Platinum, 33, $1,135.

Mounting 29840, $439.

Mounting 29874, $425.

29861 Oval-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Peg Setting, 1 CT center (8×6mm), 1⁄3 CTW, 7.8mm height, Platinum, 33, $1,259.

29922 Round-Shape Cocktail-Style Peg Setting, 1 CT (6.5mm), 5.5mm height, Platinum, $129

Mounting 29861, $515.

29827 Round-Shape 4-Prong Basket Setting, 1 CT (6.5mm), 5.5mm height, Platinum, $129

29896 Emerald-Shape Split-Claw Prong Basket Setting, 1 1⁄4 CT (7×5mm), 5.8mm height, Platinum, $189

29862 Emerald-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Peg Setting, 1 1⁄4 CT center (7×5mm), 1⁄3 CTW, 7.4mm height, Platinum, 33, $1,165.

Mounting 29862, $399.

8 |

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits

29884 Pear-Shape 6-Prong Claw Peg Setting, 1 CT (8.5×5.5mm), 6.5mm height, Platinum, $169

Settings

Crowning Glory Even if your customer chooses a different metal for their ring, always suggest a platinum head, or crown, to protect the center stone. Many people are unaware of platinum’s strength, so offer a platinum crown to them as an extra form of assurance.

Best-Selling Peg Settings

311 Round-Shape 4-Prong Low Peg Setting, 3⁄4-11⁄8 CT (6.0-6.6mm), 6.2mm height, Platinum, $155

312 Round-Shape Tall 6-Prong Peg Setting, 3⁄4-11⁄8 CT (6.0-6.6mm), 6.2mm height, Platinum, $159

346 Oval-Shape 6-Prong Peg Setting, 1 CT (8×6mm), 6.5mm height, Platinum, $249

24975 Round-Shape 4-Prong Semi-Set Peg Setting, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 0.04 CTW, Platinum, 33, $375. Mounting 24975, $225.

29311 Round-Shape Semi-Set Halo-Style Peg Setting, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 0.08 CTW, 8.1mm height, Platinum, 33, $495.

28251 Round-Shape Semi-Set Halo-Style Peg Setting, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄5 CTW, 7.5mm height, Platinum, 33, $1,009.

Mounting 29311, $269.

Mounting 28251, $399.

28037 Square-Shape 4-Prong Semi-Set Peg Setting, 1 CT center (5.5×5.5mm), 0.05 CTW, 7.5mm height, Platinum, 33, $415. Mounting 28037, $265.

29309 Round-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Peg Setting, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄10 CTW, 8.1mm height, Platinum, 33, $599.

28248 Round-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Peg Setting, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 1⁄4 CTW, 7.7mm height, Platinum, 33, $1,145.

Mounting 29309, $315.

Mounting 28248, $395.

29643 Round-Shape Semi-Set Peg Setting, 1 CT center (6.5mm), 0.06 CTW, 6.8mm height, Platinum, 33, $525.

29314 Oval-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Peg Setting, 1 CT center (8×6mm), 1⁄8 CTW, 7.9mm height, Platinum, 33, $629.

Mounting 29643, $199.

Mounting 29314, $315.

28256 Square-Shape Halo-Style Semi-Set Peg Setting, 1 CT center (5.5×5.5mm), 1⁄4 CTW, 7.2mm height, Platinum, 33, $1,195. Mounting 28256, $459.

Stone Codes: 32 Genuine Diamond SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural | 33 Genuine Diamond (Round) I1, G-H

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits | 9

Shanks

Peg Shanks

SH719 Diamond-Accented Sculptural Shank for Peg Setting, 1⁄4 CTW, 3.6mm span, 2.5×4.8mm shoulder, Platinum, 33, $1,375. Mounting SH719, $795.

SH712 Diamond-Accented Shank for Peg Setting, 0.06 CTW, 4.9mm span, 1.9×3.4mm shoulder, Platinum, 33, $965.

SH676 Diamond-Accented Shank for Peg Setting, 1⁄4 CTW, 4mm span, 6.3×4.4mm shoulder, Platinum, 124, $1,469.

Mounting SH712, $839.

Mounting SH676, $865.

SH714 Diamond-Accented Shank with Milgrain for Peg Setting, 1⁄4 CTW, 3mm span, 2.5×3.8mm shoulder, Platinum, 33, $1,339. Mounting SH714, $759.

SH685 Diamond-Accented Shank for Peg Setting, 1⁄3 CTW, 3.8mm span, 1.9×1.6mm shoulder, Platinum, 21, 32, $1,465.

SH670 Diamond-Accented Shank for Peg Setting, 1⁄4 CTW, 2.6mm span, 1.9×2.1mm shoulder, Platinum, 124, $1,179.

Mounting SH685, $529.

Mounting SH670, $495.

SH696 Sculptural Shank for Peg Setting, 5.9mm span, 2.2×2.1mm shoulder, Platinum, $925

SH699 Decorative Shank for Peg Setting, 5.1mm span, 2.2×2.2mm shoulder, Platinum, $609

SH698 Twisted Shank for Peg Setting, 2.2×1.9mm, Platinum, $705

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Shanks

Best-Selling Peg Shanks

SH475 Milgrain Cathedral Shank for Peg Setting, 4.6mm span, 1.4×5.1mm shoulder, Platinum, $995

SH701 Shank for Peg Setting, 5.3mm span, 2.6×2.4mm shoulder, Platinum, $865

SH657 Cathedral Shank for Peg Setting, 2.7mm span, 1.8×2.6mm shoulder, Platinum, $785

SH468 Diamond-Accented Shank for Peg Setting, 1⁄10 CTW, 4mm span, 1.8×3.3mm shoulder, Platinum, 545, $979.

121957 Diamond-Accented Shank for Peg Setting, 3⁄8 CTW, 3.3mm span, 2.9×1.4mm shoulder, Platinum, 32, $2,319.

Mounting SH468, $535.

121963 Diamond-Accented Sculptural Shank for Peg Setting, 1⁄4 CTW, 3.5mm span, 2.9×2.1mm shoulder, Platinum, 32, $1,765. Mounting 121963, $1,255.

SH447 Diamond-Accented Shank for Peg Setting, 1⁄5 CTW, 1.6×1.7mm, Platinum, 33, $999. Mounting SH447, $485.

SH445 Diamond-Accented Shank for Peg Setting, 1⁄5 CTW, 6.5mm span, 1.7×2.7mm shoulder, Platinum, 509, $1,325.

SH706 Diamond-Accented French-Set Shank for Peg Setting, 1⁄3 CTW, 1.9×1.9mm, Platinum, 32, $1,369.

Mounting SH445, $665.

Mounting SH706, $559.

Stone Codes: 21 Genuine Diamond (Straight Baguette) SI2-SI3, G-I | 32 Genuine Diamond SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural | 33 Genuine Diamond (Round) I1, G-H 124 Genuine Diamond (Round), SI1, G-H | 545 Genuine Diamond (Round), I1, H+ | 509 Genuine Precision Diamond (Round), SI1, G+

Mounting 121957, $1,295.

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits | 11

Anniversary and Eternity Bands

A

E Available center stone shapes:

B

J Available center stone shapes:

F Available center stone shapes:

C

K

G

L Available center stone shapes:

H Available center stone shapes:

Available center stone shapes:

Available center stone shapes:

Available center stone shapes:

D

Available center stone shapes:

Available center stone shapes:

M Available center stone shapes:

Available center stone shapes:

A. 122107 Diamond Eternity Band, 13⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $3,905. Mounting 122107, $779. Anniversary 122877.

E. 122980 Diamond Eternity Band, 21⁄3 CTW, Platinum, 35, size 7, $7,519. Mounting 122980, $1,345. Anniversary 122978.

J. 123191 Diamond Eternity Band, 11⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $4,215. Mounting 123191, $819. Anniversary 123180.

B. 123193 Diamond Eternity Band, 11⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $4,685. Mounting 123193, $1,385.

F. 123601 Diamond Eternity Band, 13⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 189, size 7, $6,085. Mounting 123601, $769. Anniversary 123600.

K. 123623 Diamond Eternity Band, 13⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $4,339. Mounting 123623, $675. Anniversary 123602.

C. 123655 Diamond Anniversary Band, 11⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $3,719. Mounting 123655, $995.

G. 122877 Diamond Anniversary Band, 5⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,365. Mounting 122877, $859. Eternity 122107.

L. 123629 Diamond Anniversary Band, 1⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,219. Mounting 123629, $755. Eternity 123628.

D. 123602 Diamond Anniversary Band, 3⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,615. Mounting 123602, $775. Eternity 123623.

H. 123600 Diamond Anniversary Band, 3⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,889. Mounting 123600, $1,025. Eternity 123601.

M. 123675 Diamond Anniversary Band, 3⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,655. Mounting 123675, $795. Eternity 123625.

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Anniversary and Eternity Bands

N

S

W

P

T

X

Q

U

Y

R

V

Z

N. 123123 French-Set Diamond Anniversary Band, 1⁄6 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,375. Mounting 123123 , $849.

S. 123225 French-Set Diamond Eternity Band, 1⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,145. Mounting 123225, $595.

W. 123430 French-Set Diamond Anniversary Band, 1⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,515. Mounting 123430, $839.

P. 123656 Diamond Anniversary Band, 7⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,315. Mounting 123656, $995.

T. 123812 Diamond Anniversary Band, 1⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,285. Mounting 123812, $1,395.

X. 123704 Diamond Anniversary Band, 1⁄10 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,335. Mounting 123704, $805.

Q. 123608 French-Set Diamond Anniversary Band, 1⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 23 32, size 7, $2,005. Mounting 123608, $809.

U. 123607 Diamond Anniversary Band, 3⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 35, 32, size 7, $2,855. Mounting 123607, $895.

Y. 123585 Diamond Anniversary Band, 1⁄2 CTW, Platinum, 21, 35, size 7, $2,325. Mounting 123585, $925.

R. 123393 Diamond Eternity Band, 3⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 26, 32, size 7, $3,279. Mounting 123393, $915.

V. 123294 Diamond Anniversary Band, 1⁄3 CTW, Platinum, 26, size 7, $1,535. Mounting 123294, $655.

Z. 123392 Diamond Anniversary Band, 3⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 26, 32, size 7, $1,955. Mounting 123392, $775.

Stone Codes: 21 Genuine Straight Baguette Diamond, B, G-I | 23 Genuine Tapered Baguette Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I | 26 Genuine Marquise Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I 32 Genuine Round Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-H | 35 Genuine Square Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-H | 189 Genuine Asscher Diamond, VS, G-I

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits | 13

Enduring Love Wedding bands that will last a lifetime

A

B

C

D

A. 51578 Domed Band with Wheat Front View, 6mm width, Platinum, size 10, $2,905 | B. 51538 Flat-Edge Comfort-Fit Milgrain Band with Satin Finish, 6mm width, Platinum, size 10, $2,299 | C. 51581 Sculptural Band with Milgrain, 4mm width, Platinum, size 10, $1,709 | D. 51530 Flat Band with Hammer Finish, 6mm width, Platinum, size 10, $1,975 14 | Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits

Wedding Bands

IR Comfort-Fit Band, Platinum mm Width

2

3

4

6

Size 7

$725

$1,265

$1,579

$2,285

Size 10

$795

$1,419

$1,775

$2,625

HRE Half-Round Edge Band, Platinum mm Width

2

3

4

6

Size 7

$525

$769

$1,005

$1,659

Size 10

$605

$855

$1,195

$1,895

FIR Flat Comfort-Fit Band, Platinum mm Width

2

3

4

6

Size 7

$835

$1,175

$1,515

$2,285

Size 10

$915

$1,295

$1,695

$2,459

mm Width

2.5

3

4

6

Size 7

$615

$785

$989

$1,605

Size 10

$709

$795

$1,105

$1,805

MG Milgrain Band, Platinum

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits | 15

Anniversary and Eternity Bands

Enchanting Elegance Rare and pure platinum will inspire and delight.

A

B

C

D F

E

A. 86843 Crescent Moon and Star Necklace, 13.1×9.6mm, Platinum, 16-18”, $759 | B. 86814 Genuine Amethyst and Diamond V Necklace, 6x4mm, 0.08 CTW, 19.8x8.3mm, Platinum, 42, 32, 16” $1,209 Semi-Set $1069, Mounting $715. | C. 72018 Chatham® Created Blue Sapphire and Diamond Ring, 6×4mm center, 0.04 CTW, Platinum, 7, 32, size 7, $1,379. Mounting 72018, $865 D. 123703 Diamond Stackable Ring, 0.07 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,199. Mounting 123703, $989. | E. 123592 Diamond Stackable Ring, 1⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,515. Mounting 123592, $959. | F. 86822 Geometric Earrings, 12×8.1mm, Platinum, $465 per pair 16 | Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits

Jewelry Collections

86866 Diamond Starburst Circle Necklace, 5⁄8 CTW, 17mm, Platinum, 32, 16", $2,615.Mounting 86866, $765.

123751 Diamond Starburst Circle Ring, 1⁄2 CTW, 13mm, Platinum, 23, 32, size 7, $2,515. Mounting 123751, $1,379.

86835 Diamond Starburst Necklace, 1⁄3 CTW, 17.6mm, Platinum, 32, 16", $1,955. Mounting 86835, $1,255.

86834 Diamond Starburst Earrings, 1⁄3 CTW, 10.7mm, Platinum, 32, $1,825 per pair. Mounting 86834, $465. each.

123709 Diamond Starburst Ring, 1⁄8 CTW, 10.7mm, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,285. Mounting 123709, $1,075.

86770 Geometric Curved Bar Necklace Center, 24.3×6.3mm, Platinum, 16-18", $1,029 86849 Geometric Hoop Earrings, 17.3×2.3mm, Platinum, $1,505 per pair 51850 Geometric Stackable Ring, 4.5mm, Platinum, $1,025

72045 Genuine Mexican Fire Opal, Mozambique Garnet and Citrine Ring, 14.1mm, Platinum, 186, 57, 48, size 7, $1,255. Mounting 72045, $1,215.

86874 Genuine Mexican Fire Opal, Mozambique Garnet and Citrine Earrings, 9.9×7.8mm, Platinum, 186, 57, 48, $949 per pair. Mounting 86874, $279 each.

Stone Codes: 7 Chatham Created Blue Sapphire | 23 Genuine Tapered Baguette Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I | 26 Genuine Marquise Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural 32 Genuine Diamond SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural | 35 Genuine Diamond (Square Princess) SI2-SI3, G-H, Natural | 48 Genuine Citrine, AA 57 Genuine Mozambique Garnet, AA | 186 Genuine Mexican Fire Opal, AA

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits | 17

Earrings

66233 3-Prong Diamond Cocktail-Style Stud Earrings, 32. Mounting 66233.

CTW mm Stone Platinum $

1⁄5 3.0 $649 per pair

1⁄4 3.2 $775 per pair

1⁄3 3.4 $1,115 per pair

1⁄2 4.0 $2,159 per pair

3⁄4 4.5 $3,885 per pair

1 5.0 $7,219 per pair

1⁄5 3.0 $685 per pair

1⁄4 3.2 $805 per pair

1⁄3 3.4 $1,149 per pair

1⁄2 4.0 $2,185 per pair

3⁄4 4.5 $3,915 per pair

1 5.0 $7,239 per pair

1⁄4 3.2 $815 per pair

1⁄2 4.0 $2,195 per pair

3⁄4 4.5 $3,919 per pair

1 5 .0 $7,235 per pair

1 1⁄2 5.75 $13,715 per pair

2 6.3 $28,255 per pair

1⁄4 3.2 $815 per pair

1⁄2 4 $2,205 per pair

3⁄4 4.5 $3,925 per pair

1 5 $7,255 per pair

11⁄2 5.75 $13,749 per pair

2 6.3 $28,305 per pair

29762 4-Prong Diamond Cocktail-Style Stud Earrings, 32. Mounting 29762.

CTW mm Stone Platinum $

1874 4-Prong Diamond Basket-Style Stud Earrings, 32. Mounting 1874.

CTW mm Stone Platinum $

29236 6-Prong Diamond Basket-Style Stud Earrings, 32. Mounting 29236.

CTW mm Stone Platinum $

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Earrings

R

86846 Crescent Moon Earrings, 8.9×4.8mm, Platinum, $379 per pair

L

86842 Diamond Geometric Earrings, 1⁄5 CTW, 12.1×5.9mm, Platinum, 32, $1,055 per pair. Mounting 86842, $345 each

86859 Diamond Bezel-Set Earrings, 1⁄3 CTW, 8.3×4.1mm, Platinum, 32, $2,179 per pair. Mounting 86859, $285 each.

86844 Engravable Beaded Earrings, 12.9×10mm, Platinum, $1,239 per pair.

Shown with Lucida Handwritten font.

R

R

L

86675 Geometric Ear Climbers, 14.6×5.9mm, Platinum, $515 per pair

L

R

86788 Diamond Geometric Ear Climbers, 0.07 CTW, 15×6.2mm, Platinum, 33, $795 per pair. Mounting 86788, $365 each.

L

86825 Scattered Bead Ear Climbers, 11.5×5.9mm, Platinum, $535 per pair

86852 White Freshwater Cultured Pearl and Diamond Ear Climbers, 5.0-5.5mm pearls, 1⁄8 CTW, 9.1×8.4mm, Platinum, 16, 32, $1,665 per pair.

Semi-Set 86852, $1,599 each. Mounting 86852, $719 each.

R

L

86815 Genuine Blue Sapphire J-Hoop Earrings, 15.5×6.8mm, Platinum, 67, $1,795 per pair.

86816 Diamond J-Hoop Earrings, 1⁄3 CTW, 9.8×6.5mm, Platinum, 32, $1,809 per pair. Mounting 86816, $465 each.

86776 Diamond Bezel-Set J-Hoop Earrings, 0.06 CTW, 11.5×2.6mm, Platinum, 32, $629 per pair. Mounting 86776, $295 each.

86792 Geometric Hoop Earrings, 12.6×1.7mm, Platinum, $979 per pair

Mounting 86815, $429 each.

86830 Family Bar Earring Mounting for Round-Shape Stone, 10.2×2.5mm.

Available with 1-4 stones. Sold by each.

mm Stone

1- 2.0

2- 2.0

3- 2.0

4- 2.0

Platinum $

$315

$315

$315

$315

Stone Codes: 16 Cultured White Pearl, AA | 26 Genuine Marquise Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural | 32 Genuine Diamond SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural 33 Genuine Round Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-H | 35 Genuine Diamond (Square Princess) SI2-SI3, G-H, Natural | 67 Genuine Blue Sapphire, AA

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits | 19

Neckwear

86814 Genuine Aquamarine and Diamond V Necklace, 6×4mm, 0.08 CTW, 19.8×8.3mm, Platinum, 45, 32, 18", $1,219. Semi-Set 86814, $1,069. Mounting 86814, $715.

86787 Diamond V Necklace, 0.03 CT, 25.2×11.7mm, Platinum, 32, 18", $945. Mounting 86787, $869.

86850 Sculptural V Necklace, 26×9mm, Platinum, 18", $765

86855 Diamond Bezel-Set V Necklace, 1⁄8 CTW, 15.7×5.9mm, Platinum, 32, 18", $1,095. Mounting 86855, $669

86766 Marquise-Shape Necklace, 16×9mm, Platinum, 16-18", $1,095

86820 Blue Sapphire, Blue Zircon, and Diamond Necklace, 0.07 CTW, 11.9×7.7mm, Platinum, 67, 46, 26, 18", $1,309. Mounting 86820, $675.

86773 Diamond Bar Necklace, 1⁄5 CTW, 23.1×4.4mm, Platinum, 33, 16-18", $1,365. Mounting 86773, $895.

86838 Genuine Amethyst and Diamond Bar Necklace, 4×2mm, 1⁄8 CTW, 15.8×3.9mm, Platinum, 43, 32, 18", $1,055. Mounting 86838, $769.

86778 Family Bar Necklace Mounting with Accents for Round-Shape Stones, 2.5mm stones, 38.2×3.5mm, Platinum, 16-18", $1,115.

Semi-set $1,419. Available with 1-5 stones.

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Neckwear

86713 Diamond Curved Bar Necklace, 1⁄10 CTW, 25.1×9.5mm, Platinum, 32, 16-18", $1,795.

86692 Diamond Crescent Moon Necklace, 1⁄3 CTW, 19.5×15mm, Platinum, 32, 16-18", $2,319.

Mounting 86713, $1,235.

Mounting 86692, $749.

86875 Diamond Infinity Necklace, 1⁄8 CTW, 20.7×6.2mm, Platinum, 32, 18", $1,215. Mounting 86875, $775.

86824 Scattered Bead Necklace, 15.7×6.6mm, Platinum, 18", $755

86829 Family Curved Bar Necklace Mounting with Accents for Marquise-Shape Stones, 5×2.5mm center, 38.7×9.2mm, Platinum, 18", $809. Semi-set $1,195. Available with 1-5 stones.

86703 Scroll Bar Necklace, 27.5×4.2mm, Platinum,16-18", $935

86812 Genuine Peridot and Diamond Bar Necklace, 6×4mm, 1⁄10 CTW, 27.5×5.2mm, Platinum, 61, 32, 18", $1,189. Semi-Set 86812, $1,145. Mounting 86812, $705.

86706 Genuine Pink Tourmaline and Diamond Bezel-Set Bar Necklace, 2.25mm, 0.08 CTW, 20.5×3.4mm, Platinum, 83, 32, 16-18", $1,219.

86742 Interlocking Circle Necklace, 20.1×14mm, Platinum, 16-18", $915

Semi-Set 86706, $1,125. Mounting 86706, $905.

Stone Codes: 26 Genuine Marquise Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural | 32 Genuine Diamond SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural | 33 Genuine Round Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-H 43 Genuine Amethyst, AA | 45 Genuine Aqua, AA | 46 Genuine Blue Zircon, AA | 61 Genuine Peridot, AA | 67 Genuine Blue Sapphire, AA | 83 Genuine Pink Tourmaline, AA

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits | 21

Rings

D

A

B

G

E

H

C

F

J

A. 123818 Diamond Crown Stackable Ring, 1⁄5 CTW, 6.0mm Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,749. Mounting 123818, $1,249.

D. 51816 Crown Stackable Ring, 5.5mm, Platinum, size 7, $819

G. 123821 Diamond Crown Stackable Ring, 3⁄8 CTW, 7.3mm, Platinum, 26, 32, size 7, $1,929.

B. 72022 Genuine Aquamarine Stackable Ring, 1- 2.25, 2- 2.0, 2- 1.8, 2- 1.5mm, Platinum, 45, size 7, $859. Mounting 72022, $819.

E. 123520 Stackable Diamond Cluster Ring 1⁄5 CTW, 3.4mm, Platinum, size 7, $969.

C. 51831 Scattered Bead Stackable Ring, 2.9mm, Platinum, size 7, $655

F. 51807 Twisted Bead Stackable Ring, 2.6mm, Platinum, size 7, $725

Mounting 123520 $839.

K

L. 123547 Diamond Stackable Ring, 1⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,065. Mounting 123547, $869.

M. 71991 Genuine Pink Tourmaline Stackable Ring, 5- 2.5mm, Platinum, 83, size 7, $975.

Mounting 71991, $905.

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Mounting 72046, $1,115.

J. 51849 Stackable Ring, 3.5mm, Platinum, size 7, $665

R

P

Q

K. 51848 Crown Stackable Ring, 3mm, Platinum, size 7, $919

H. 72046 Genuine Amethyst Stackable Ring, 3.4mm, Platinum, 43, size 7, $1,305.

N

L

M

Mounting 123821, $1,015.

N. 72035 Genuine Blue Sapphire and Diamond Stackable Ring, 3.0mm center, 0.04 CTW, Platinum, 67, 32, size 7, $1,175.

Semi-Set 72035, $1,009. Mounting 72035, $999.

P. 51833 Pyramid Stackable Ring, 3.5mm, Platinum, size 7, $669 Q. 123703 Diamond Stackable Ring, 0.07 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,199. Mounting 123703, $989.

S

T

R. 51855 Geometric Stackable Ring, 5.2mm, Platinum, size 7, $745 S. 123714 Diamond Stackable Ring, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 21, 23, size 7, $1,025.

T. 72047 Genuine Blue Zircon Stackable Ring, 5- 3.0mm, Platinum, 46, size 7, $1,405.

Mounting 72047, $1,095.

Rings

123701 Diamond Stackable Ring, 1⁄6 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,349.

51860 Vintage-Inspired Stackable Ring, 4.4mm, Platinum, size 7, $999

51859 Crown Stackable Ring, 5mm, Platinum, Size 7, $649

Mounting 123701, $835.

123750 Diamond Crown Ring, 0.03 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $769. Mounting 123750, $679.

123743 Diamond Two-Stone Bezel-Set Ring, 1⁄4 CTW, 9.8×3.7mm, Platinum, 117, 32, size 7, $1,965. Mounting 123743, $989.

72038 Family Ring Mounting with Accents for Round-Shape Stones, 2.5mm stones, 0.04 CTW, Platinum, $1,189.

123822 Diamond Three-Stone Bypass Ring, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,435. Mounting 123822, $975.

72027 Family Ring Mounting with Accents for Marquise-Shape Stones, 5x2.5mm stones, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, $1,169. Semi-Set 72027 $1,615.

51813 Criss-Cross Ring, 6.4mm, Platinum, size 7, $1,179

123711 Diamond Criss-Cross Ring, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,199.

Semi-Set 72038 $1,275.

51883 Interlocking Negative Space Ring, 9.6mm, Platinum, size 7, $1,309

6519 White Freshwater Cultured Pearl Negative Space Ring, 6.5mm pearl, Platinum, 16, size 7, $1,655.

123779 Diamond Infinity Ring, 1⁄8 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $1,425. Mounting 123779, $1,125.

51796 Freeform Ring, 6mm, Platinum, size 7, $1,075

Mounting 123711, $1,749.

123690 Diamond Criss-Cross Ring, 1⁄3 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,395. Mounting 123690, $1,609.

123732 Diamond Criss-Cross Ring, 1⁄4 CT, Platinum, size 7, $4,095.

Mounting 123732, $2,425.

Mounting 6519, $1,599.

Stone Codes: 16 Cultured White Pearl, AA | 21 Genuine Diamond (Straight Baguette) SI2-SI3, G-I | 23 Genuine Diamond (Tapered Baguette), SI2-SI3, G-I | 26 Genuine Marquise Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural | 32 Genuine Diamond SI2-SI3, G-I, Natural | 35 Genuine Diamond (Square Princess) SI2-SI3, G-H, Natural | 43 Genuine Amethyst, AA 45 Genuine Aqua, AA | 46 Genuine Blue Zircon, AA | 67 Genuine Blue Sapphire, AA | 83 Genuine Pink Tourmaline, AA | 117 Genuine Diamond (Pear), SI2-SI3, G-I

Stuller.com/PlatinumBenefits | 23

Back cover, left to right: 86732 Vintage-Inspired J-Hoop Earring, 14.5×7.2mm, Platinum, $595 per pair | 123776 Diamond Anniversary Band, 1⁄3 CTW, Platinum, 32, size 7, $2,239. Mounting 123776, $945. | 72020 Chatham® Created Blue Sapphire and Diamond Ring, 1⁄3 CTW, Platinum, 7, 32, size 7 $2,765.

Mounting 72020 $1,285. | 123714 Diamond Stackable Ring, 1⁄5 CTW, Platinum, 21, 23, size 7, $1,025. Mounting 123714, $599.

Front cover, clockwise from top: 86831 Freeform Bar Necklace, 28.5×8mm, Platinum, 18", $695 86798 Diamond Halo-Style Pendant, 6.65×4.75mm center (5⁄8 CT), 1⁄5 CTW, 11×9mm, Platinum, 33, $3,955. Mounting 86798, $615. Shown with CH123. 123741 Emerald-Shape Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 3⁄4 CT center (7×5mm), 3⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 21, size 7, $4,919. Mounting 123741, $1,095. | 51212 Comfort-Fit Beveled Edge Band with Satin Finish, 6mm width, Platinum, $3,205 | 86813 Cluster Earring Jackets, 1⁄4 CTW, Platinum, 26, $1,335 per pair. Mounting 86813, $255 each.

Stone codes: 7 Chatham® Created Sapphire, Fine, SYN | 21 Genuine Straight Baguette Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I 23 Genuine Tapered Baguette Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I | 26 Genuine Marquise Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I 32 Genuine Round Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-H | 33 Genuine Round Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-H

Stuller.com

800 877 7777

All prices are suggested retail based on $1,000 platinum and are subject to change without notice.

Visit Stuller.com for complete product selections, current pricing, and availability. Items are shown larger than actual size.

04/2018 MKTGMEDIA: 9955

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Stuller.com/Holiday

81

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JUNE 2018

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK THE FAMILY STONE Jared Silver and his father, Stephen, help Silicon Valley’s movers and shakers invest in the world’s finest gems

Jared Silver S.H. Silver and Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry shsilver.com

BY EMILI VESILIND PHOTOGRAPHY BY CODY PICKENS

GROOMING: LISA TELLER

O

NE OF SILICON Valley’s most esteemed private jewelers, S.H. Silver, owns and operates Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry, a boutique inside the Rosewood Sand Hill hotel in Menlo Park, Calif. But brick-and-mortar retailing is just one of several businesses the four-decade-old company juggles.

Founded in 1980 by gemologist Stephen Silver, S.H. Silver also specializes in the acquisition and sale of ultrarare gemstones; Silver acquired and recut the Pink Promise diamond, which fetched $32 million at Christie’s Hong Kong auction in November, and has brought several other notable gems to auction. Silver and his son, company president Jared Silver, also work one-on-one with watch and jewelry collectors, and together advise Silicon Valley’s jet set on ways to build up their tangible assets, through a consultancy that specializes in investment-worthy gems.

“We’re able to do all this because we have incredible access to stones,” explains Jared. In fact, sometimes the extraordinary gems just walk through the front door. “Stephen gets stones brought to his office all the time,” he adds. “We’re then able to place these stones and give clients the opportunity to own things that are unquestionably rare.”

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SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

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Father-and-son team Stephen and Jared Silver Investment pieces: (top l.) a fancy yellow radiant-cut 5.22 ct. diamond ring; (above) a Richard Mille RM11-02 GMT

“Our goal is to change the perception of jewelry from a rare tangible asset to a collectible artwork.”

—Jared Silver

Stephen was initially a wholesaler— how has the company evolved over the years?

He started the company as a jewelry company—he graduated from GIA and moved into the gem world and was a wholesale dealer for years. He ended up getting very involved in the Silicon Valley world, and when the Rosewood Sand Hill hotel opened in 2008, we opened a very tiny boutique there—really it was a converted coat closet. We ended up doing millions of dollars in business out of that 110-square-foot space.

I came into the business around that time, and when we started looking at how to expand, we saw that most of our buyers at the store were men, though 80 percent of people JUNE 2018

who walked in were women. I said, “I think we’re missing the mark here.”

We built out a bigger [atrium space] in the hotel and started focusing heavily on high-end watches.

You stock offbeat luxury watches, not the usual Rolex-driven mix. What are your criteria for partnering with brands?

People around here, they don’t want things that feel corporate. They appreciate innovation and creativity.

Also, no one in this area was specializing in unique, esoteric watches. We became a beacon of light on the hill.

Folks who’ve been collecting watches for years would walk in and be like, “What the heck is this store doing?”

We sell Greubel Forsey, Hermès,

Bell & Ross, Laurent Ferrier, HYT, Audemars Piguet, F.P. Journe, MB&F, and Richard Mille. Watches represent only 15 to 20 percent of our overall revenue, but the company’s revenue has doubled in the last four years.

How and why did you launch the tangible assets consultancy?

The Rothschild family has a personal investment strategy that includes maintaining a third of their assets in tangible assets. That was part of their equation for preserving wealth.

What my dad found working with his clientele is that they tend to be overly leveraged in securities. We like to look at ourselves as guides for people looking to invest in the tangible asset market, specifically gemstones. We look at their existing collections, then advise them on how to diversify that.

As far as I know, I think we’re the first in the world to do this. Our work is about presenting clients with the opportunity to own something, versus selling.

Tell me about the documentary S.H. Silver is making.

[It’s] a documentary on the Pink Promise diamond. My dad partnered with a diamond cutter in New York to recut that stone to 14.93 carats. It was originally 16.1—which was a big risk. One of the frustrating things for him over the years has been that he perceives jewelry as art. If you had a one-off Picasso, it would sell for $120 million.

Why aren’t stones getting those prices?

People don’t value jewelry as much as artwork because they’re not as educated about it. By showing people what actually happens during the process of cutting a stone like the Pink Promise, we hope people will understand how much skill and art really goes into it.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER

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SHOP TALK

RETAIL THERAPY

CLASSIC ACTION

BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: What diamond jewelry styles—aside from bridal— are currently selling well in your store?

DAVID CAMERON OWNER BROER-FREEMAN JEWELERS Toledo, Ohio broerfreeman.com

A: We do a lot of custom work Stainless Steel Jewelry for Men info@arzsteel.com | www.arzsteel.com Looking for Sales Reps & Distribution

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BARBARA STRAUSS CO-OWNER STRAUSS JEWELERS Mount Vernon, Wash. straussjewelers.com

A: The basics, like simple pendants and earrings, always sell well. Ninety percent of our diamonds sold are round-cut and typically in white gold settings.

We’re in a farming community where you have to drive an hour to get to Seattle or Vancouver, so most of the diamond pieces our customers end up buying are things they can wear every day.

and repurpose our clients’ jewelry that they inherited from their grandmother or someone else. Customers are taking the diamonds from those [vintage] pieces and setting them into diamond necklaces and stud earrings. Typically, these pieces are going right back into 14 karat yellow gold, which is usually the metal they came out of.

A: Diamond stacking

MICHAEL HAINES OWNER THE DIAMOND SHOP Lewiston, Idaho thediamondshop.com

bands are our go-to right now, along with bezel-set pendants. Simple, clean, tailored looks are doing really well. Pear and oval shapes have taken over princess and radiant cuts.

And while we work a lot with white gold and rose gold, we’ve been using more yellow gold lately.

It’s fun to work with.

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

HANK SIEGEL PRESIDENT AND CEO HAMILTON JEWELERS Princeton, N.J. hamiltonjewelers.com

A: We see a lot of mix-andmatch styling happening. When it comes to diamond jewelry, this translates to stacking both rings and bracelets, and layering pendant necklaces. Women are wearing things in multiples, mixing metal colors and the shapes of diamonds. Round diamonds are being paired with fancy cuts, and rose, yellow, and white gold are all intermingled.

The look feels timeless, yet thoroughly modern.

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SHOP TALK

CAUSES TO CELEBRATE

86

Nasruddin Rupani (c.) with students and parents at a graduation for the parent-child program in Gilgit, Pakistan

CHILD SUPPORTER Nasruddin Rupani’s Informed Parents initiative brings critical education to mothers in remote areas of South and Central Asia

BY EMILI VESILIND

I

N 2006, DIAMOND supplier and philanthropist Nasruddin Rupani, president of Houston-based World’s Gold & Diamonds Inc., established the Rupani Foundation to educate and support economically vulnerable workers in Afghanistan, Tajikistan, and his native Pakistan on how to mine for gems and make a better living through mining.

But the living conditions he saw among the workers and their families prompted him to launch a second initiative, Informed Parents, that benefits mothers and children in these remote, mountainous areas.

The locations in South and Central Asia “are the most remote communities in the world, where these mothers and children have no access to education,” Rupani says. Poor sanitation and unhealthful practices—such as living with livestock inside the house and breathing in the smoke of indoor fires—also contribute to the people’s vulnerability, he adds.

Focusing squarely on the health and development of young children, the initiative

JUNE 2018

A grandmother and grandchild, members of the early-childhood development program, in Gilgit

strives to educate mothers on crucial matters of early childhood development. This includes teaching them how brains develop in the womb and in the first years of life, and the role nutrition plays in that development.

The lessons are based on the Montessori school of early-childhood education, which promotes child-led learning using ageappropriate materials. “When I learned about Montessori, I thought, These communities need this,” Rupani says. Like founder Maria Montessori, he believes “the entire foundation of the child starts in the mother’s womb.”

That conviction has propelled the initiative into small mountainous villages in a vehicle the philanthropist describes as an “earlychildhood development center on wheels.”

The welcome from locals, Rupani says, is usually very warm. “They are excited to learn,” he says, adding that he hopes the program can eventually scale up to support more families.

Children who benefit from the program are followed and supported from conception

until age 4. At that point, the hope is that the mother has acquired the tools to not only keep her children safe and healthy but also teach them crucial life skills, including basic English (which the program teaches its mothers).

Informed Parents also brings Montessori education on early-childhood development to mothers and children in the United States— specifically to recent immigrants, refugees, and undocumented people who often come to America with scant material possessions, resources, and emotional reserves. In its U.S. efforts, Informed Parents operates out of community rooms at low-income apartment complexes, filling the void in day care, which is financially out of reach for so many.

“We spend at least two hours with them every time,” Rupani says. “When the mother goes home, she’s practicing what she’s learned and becoming a teacher at home. We start with the child, then we go to the mother, then we go to the family. Eventually we see the whole community change.”

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SHOP TALK

88

STORE WE ADORE

570 N. MAPLE AVE. RIDGEWOOD, N.J.

KATIE DIAMOND JEWELRY Katie Diamond—yes, that’s her real name—was in the fine jewelry business for eight years, wholesaling to stores such as Fred Segal and Barneys New York, before opening her shop in one of the oldest buildings in Ridgewood, N.J. She lived up the street and was obsessed with the space until one day, in May 2015, she decided to take the retail plunge. “I always wanted a store,” she recalls, “and my husband said, ‘Just do it.’ ”

BY KRISTIN YOUNG PHOTOGRAPHY BY BALL & ALBANESE

“It made more sense to give it a go on my own,” says Katie Diamond, who used to only wholesale her designs.

JUNE 2018

FINE AND ATTAINABLE Accessibility is key for Diamond, both as a designer and retailer.

“I really wanted to open a realistic store for myself and for the community,” she says. Alongside Diamond’s own fine and bridal

HAIR & MAKEUP: MARGINA DENNIS

W

ALK INTO K ATIE Diamond Jewelry, and you’re immediately struck by its lightness and airy feel. Because the building dates back to 1790, owner and designer Katie Diamond couldn’t make many changes to the interior. But it had plenty of windows and bright white walls, to which she added gold flourishes including modern lighting fixtures and delicate display cases. A gold Moroccan pouf sits near a table with a sign that reads: “Talk to me about my cat.” Diamond describes the decor (and the jewelry she stocks) as “a mixture of East meets West. Exotic but attainable.”

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To discover this new way to increase your sales, call us today to become a brand partner at 800.828.1122 or visit us at edlevinjewelry.com.

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E.L. Designs ED LEVIN STUDIO

SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

90

“Wholesale was changing.

Stores were asking for consignment deals. The store is a reaction to that.”

—Katie Diamond

(Above) Misa Jewelry, Victoria Cunningham, and Margaret Solow designs; (r.)

Katie Diamond’s bracelets; (far r.) her Naomi, Taylor, and Bianca necklaces

jewelry—as well as designs from brands including Misa Jewelry, Elisa Solomon, and Christina Kober Designs—sit fashion pieces from the likes of Margaret Solow Jewelry, Hortense Jewelry, and her own Gilded by Katie Diamond. “It’s been so much fun to buy for a store,” says Diamond, whose jewelry taste tends toward a specific aesthetic: thin, delicate, and ultrafeminine.

THE GIFT MIX The store also features lifestyle items such as soap, candles, smudge sticks, books, scarves, and more—a mix of items that Diamond says meshes with today’s current retail environment. A customer can walk in with less than $50 and walk out with a set of Moroccan tea glasses, a colorful porcelain jewelry tray, or a pair of 2-inch glimmer hoop earrings. “I’m not buying a $1,000 ring every day. That’s a very special purchase,” Diamond says. “It’s JUNE 2018

nice to be able to come in and purchase a $30 pair of earrings.

That’s the way I shop. I think that’s the way most people are.”

COOL CUSTOMERS Many Katie Diamond customers are well-heeled and welltraveled, and think nothing of heading an hour east to New York City to shop at Barneys or ABC Carpet & Home. But they are equally keen on supporting local businesses—both in person and on KatieDiamondJewelry.com, where they can shop most of what’s in-store. “The customers have really embraced the store and truly want it to succeed,” she says. “We’ve met this network of creative, cool, smart, kind, entrepreneurial women through the store—there is a certain type that’s drawn to it. It’s been amazing personally to befriend these girls and to see this kind of community develop around the shop.”

Says Diamond: ”I went to FIT. I had no idea what I wanted to do with my life. I got my yoga teaching certificate.

I went to Fordham and started premed classes.” Then she took metalsmithing classes and “loved everything about it.”

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-ofjck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JUNE 2018

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK 1

2

VARIETY SHOW

Using faceted stones, inlay, or even ceramic, mosaic-inspired designs pack a patterned punch

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

3

5

4 1/ The Linda Lock all-inlay lock with 64 stones in 18k yellow gold; $17,000; Marla Aaron; 646-7991434; marlaaaron.com

2/ Star pendant with ceramic and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $6,150; Santo by Zani; info@ santobyzani.com; santobyzani.com

3/ Mata pendant in malachite, white onyx, enamel, quartz, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $3,995; Harwell Godfrey; 646745-6831; harwellgodfrey.com

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4/ Cuff with a mosaic of multicolored fancy diamonds and white diamonds in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver; $43,750; Todd Reed; 303-442-6280; toddreed.com

5/ Falling Fern Brocade earrings with Peruvian and pink opals, dusty pink diamond baguettes, emeralds, brown zircon, andalusite, and blue, green, and peach tourmaline in recycled 20k rose gold; $33,750; Nak Armstrong; walter@nak armstrong.com; nakarmstrong.com

THE LOOK

RED CARPET

94

GOLD IS THE NEW BLACK The skin-flattering metallic shade is fast becoming Hollywood’s favorite wardrobe staple

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Earrings with carved jade and hammered 18k gold; price on request; David Webb; 212-421-3030; davidwebb.com

UNDER $500

Daffodil earrings with dyed jadeite, 18k gold plate, and CZ; $285; Angélique De Paris; 610-7827227; angelique deparis.com

Fine carved green jade drop earrings in 18k yellow gold with bullet diamond tops; $10,500; Mason Kay; kris@masonkay. com; masonkay.com

JUNE 2018

UNDER $15,000

When you’re promoting a movie like Rampage—the big-budget action flick that Naomie Harris headlines with Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson—you know the premieres are going to be lit. Fortunately, Harris dressed for the occasion, in a disco-tastic Miu Miu gown awash in gold sequins and paillettes. For jewels, she selected classic green jade pieces from David Webb, whose designs have been all over the red carpet lately. (We spied them on Emily Ratajkowski at the Daily Front Row fashion awards and Tina Fey at Broadway’s Mean Girls opening, to name a few!)

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VALERIE MACON/AFP/GETTY

NAOMIE HARRIS

THE LOOK

RED CARPET

96

1960s turquoise and gold pendant earrings with garnet; price on request; Fred Leighton; 212-288-1872; fredleighton.com

UNDER $2,500

Some fashion critics thought that Nicole Kidman’s buttery-gold Michael Kors gown was too much for the Academy of Country Music Awards. One detail you don’t see in this photo: It was completely cut open in the back! And her hubby, multi-nominee Keith Urban, was wearing (artfully) ripped black jeans, after all.

But people: She’s Nicole Kidman. This was an awards show. Did you expect anything less than high glam? Our one quibble: her hair, which often obscured those stunning antique drops from Fred Leighton—her go-to red-carpet jewelry designer. Those earrings are too beautiful to hide!

JUNE 2018

UNDER $500

Turquoise, amethyst, and lemon quartz two-way convertible earrings in 14k gold– plated brass; $374; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com

Vermeil earrings with cloisonné enamel, iolite, turquoise, and rubies; €950 ($1,175); Percossi Papi; percossipapi@ percossipapi.com; percossipapi.com

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THE LOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

98

DÍA DE LOS COLORES Melissa Spalten draws inspiration from her San Antonio childhood for her colorful, gemstone-filled M. Spalten Jewelry line

BY CLARISSA CRUZ

Triple stone rings with green tourmaline, blue topaz, kyanite, and diamonds, $3,620; pink and golden tourmaline, carnelian, and diamonds, $4,610 JUNE 2018

Ribbon rings in 18k yellow gold (also available in rose and white gold); $2,380– $3,780; M. Spalten; mspalten@mspalten. com; mspalten.com

M

OST TEENAGERS SEE getting grounded as a bummer.

Melissa Spalten saw it as an opportunity: “I made cuff bracelets the whole time I was stuck at home,” laughs the 32-year-old designer behind the West Hollywood–based M. Spalten Jewelry. “I used sculpting clay and pressed in little seed beads and glued rhinestones on. It was so fun for me to try to come up with something I could make and wear.”

That kind of defeats the purpose of grounding, but it does make for a fitting anecdote for a future jewelry designer.

Known for her colorful, eye-catching pieces, Spalten has been cultivating her distinctive aesthetic ever since she was a young child growing up in San Antonio. “I was really inspired by papel picado”—the Mexican folk art of cutting colored paper into elaborate designs—“Día de los Muertos [Day of the Dead], and the paper flowers at Fiesta,” Spalten says. “It inspired the creative part of my style, down to the way I dressed. I like to change it up a lot and am kind of obsessed with vintage clothes and shopping. I love a big dress—anything with sparkles, color, and embellishment.”

And her jewelry certainly reflects that: Gemstonefocused and vivid, with celestial adornments such as starbursts and cometlike designs, these aren’t pieces for minimalists. Think spiky chandelier earrings festooned with otherworldly moonstones and punky black diamond pavé, or a stunning ombré tourmaline pendant necklace surrounded by baguette diamonds and set in rose gold.

“I like to create really unique pieces that make you smile and feel special,” Spalten says. “Things that are JCKONLINE.COM

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THE LOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

100

Rings of Saturn necklace with white, yellow, and treated black opal strands, invisibleset tsavorite, and diamonds; $16,600

“I want my pieces to look like you have heirloom jewels from your fabulous, well-traveled grandmother.”

—Melissa Spalten

conversation starters that make people say, ‘Ooh, what is that?’ I’m not really driven by trends.… I think about what I would want to wear and how I can take that idea and make it unique, yet modern and accessible.”

It’s a refreshing sentiment at a time when some designers chase what they think customers want, creating large something-for-everyone collections that favor crowdpleasing over innovation. “M. Spalten is for someone who’s interested in fashion, someone who’s not afraid of color, someone who’s more into the piece than the name on it,” says Spalten, who tightly edits each of her collections to preserve the one-of-a-kind vibe. “Each piece is a little work of art in itself.”

IDENTITY QUEST

Chroma bangle with red enamel and redorange sapphires; $5,180

JUNE 2018

Her journey from jewelry lover to jewelry designer was fairly straightforward. Spalten’s mother, Mary, used to make beaded necklaces for fun and took 5-year-old Melissa along on her trips to the bead store, where the kindergartener would pick out supplies to make bracelets and other trinkets. She eventually graduated to sculpting clay and created pendants and cuffs (“I just loved making things with my hands”); after a brief detour studying retail merchandising at the University of Texas at Austin, she transferred to the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles to specialize in jewelry design.

“I realized I just wanted to create, and studying the business side was not working out for me,” Spalten says. “At FIDM, I took metalsmithing and other design classes, and

it was great to have that foundation to know how things are made and to have set a few stones—it helps when I’m designing to know how things actually go together.”

Soon after graduation she officially opened her company, M. Spalten Jewelry, in 2011, working out of her home and specializing in luxurious silver pieces inspired by estate jewelry. Spalten drew her designs, then took them to the jewelry district in downtown Los Angeles to have them made; she also eventually found a manufacturer in Bangkok, and had pieces made there as well.

By 2015, she was selling her jewelry at boutiques on the East Coast as well as in Texas, but found herself at a crossroads. “My line wasn’t fine jewelry, but it wasn’t fashion jewelry either,” Spalten says. “I was using real gemstones, but they weren’t crazy-rare ones—like amethyst instead of ruby. So the pricing was a little confusing to people.”

Her customers were also becoming more vocal about their preferences. They loved M. Spalten’s designs, but wanted to see them in gold. “My silver pieces were chunky, and it was just too expensive to re-create that in gold,” she says.

“So I worked on doing the same kind of unique pieces, but scaling them down.”

Which is how she arrived at her brand’s current iteration: gem-heavy showstoppers, earthy elemental pieces, and the latest addition, the relatively unadorned Ribbon collection of matte gold bracelets and rings that can stand alone or be layered with her core line.

“I want my pieces to look like you have heirloom jewels from your fabulous, well-traveled grandmother,” Spalten says.

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THE LOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

102

Tourmaline Brick necklace with millennium-cut Brazilian tourmaline and baguette diamonds; $14,968

“But I also want them to be modernized—a more polished version of this global, eclectic look that I want to cultivate.”

Spinning Orb earrings with moonstone, black diamonds, and white diamonds; $11,072

Ribbon bangles in 18k yellow gold (also available in rose and white gold); $3,400–$7,610

JUNE 2018

ROLLING WITH THE STONES Her design process always starts with the gemstones, which she sources during Tucson gem week, the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, and other trade shows. She lays the stones out on a table in her workspace, so she can walk past and think about ideas before she actually gets down to the serious designing. She then takes a photo of all the stones and makes several copies, as she draws directly on the photocopies to create her designs. “I feel like that’s the only way to get the design and colors right,” she explains.

“Finally, when I’m ready, I like to turn on music”— everything from classical to the Flaming Lips and Talking Heads to ’90s gangsta rap—“light some candles and get into the mood. Anything that helps me get into that creative zone.”

As for the stones themselves, she embraces unusual gems. In fact, she considers herself an ambassador of sorts for lesser-known stones. “Rubies, sapphires, and emeralds are gorgeous, and there’s a reason they’re loved, but people should also know they can find gemstone jewelry that doesn’t have to be some crazy auction piece,” says Spalten, who lists Russian uvarovite (a deep green crystalline variety of garnet) and opal doublets as current faves. “Just because something isn’t rare doesn’t mean it’s not beautiful.” She also finds particular beauty in stones with obvious imperfections. “I love stones that have inclusions; I think they’re super inspiring, and you know it’s a natural stone,” she says.

“I have a stone right now that has chunks of pyrite inside the quartz, and I think it would be perfect for a ring.”

Spalten’s ultimate hope is that, as individual as her pieces are, her jewelry is seen as timeless—something her clients consider worthy of passing on to their loved ones. “I really do think about something being wearable 10, 20, and more years from now,” she says. “I want to create something that is special to the owner and a work of art, but still high-quality and classic. My pieces may be funky, but I can’t see them going out of style.”

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PURA

gold collection

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THE LOOK

Q&A

104

Asks...

JOHN ATENCIO The Colorado designer’s jewelry (and art) will leave you on a Rocky Mountain high IF YOU LIVE in Denver and you see a salt-and-pepper–haired gent breeze by on a chrysoprase-green bicycle, wave hello to John Atencio. You’ll often find the designer riding around the Mile High City; he has five retail stores in the area, including one on historic Larimer Square (plus two more in Fort Collins and Boulder, Colo.), where he sells not only his diamond and gemstone jewelry but also his original artwork. At LUXURY, he’ll be debuting his Gemini Pavé collection, which he describes as “pear-shape pavé facing pear-shape color.” At press time, Atencio didn’t yet have photos of the new pieces, so he dashed off a drawing. Always the artist! —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 68 Number of years in the biz: 42 Number of employees you oversee: 35 Family and pets: I work with my younger son. My oldest son is a Hollywood director-producer.

Describe your personal style: Fit, young at heart, love my line of work.

JUNE 2018

(Top) Atencio’s Mind’s Eye painting; (above) Originate diamond cuff in 14k yellow gold

An artistic rendering of the new Gemini Pavé collection

First piece you ever designed: A silver ring for my girlfriend— made at night at a free Colorado State University class.

The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: Usually my most recent piece. I’m happiest with all, especially the last.

Best piece of advice you ever received: “As you waste your breath complaining about life, someone out there is breathing their last. Appreciate what you have.”

First job ever: Paperboy.

How did you get started designing jewelry? I took a free university night class. I made one ring and never stopped.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing?

Definitely something with my hands, in art, like painting.

How did you get started painting? I took a trip around the world and on my return, I started painting. I was searching for Michelangelo.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Stackable bracelets—two leather bracelets, one solid gold cuff—and a JA Pantheon watch.

Five items on your desk right now: A picture of my grandson, a spiritual candle, pens for coloring designs, an iPad, and roses.

Five songs on your playlist: “Starboy,” The Weeknd [pictured ] feat. Daft Punk; “Diving With Whales,” Nora en Pure; “Nobody Like You,” Kaskade; “Ocean Drive,” Duke Dumont; “Cruise,” Kygo feat. Andrew Jackson.

Exercise regimen: Avid cyclist. Every day. Throughout the week—basketball, weights, and daily stretching.

What did you have for breakfast? Either eggs with green chiles or oatmeal with fruit.

Guilty pleasure: Great wine and great tequila.

Drink (daytime/evening): Wine in the evening.

How do you unwind? Taking off on a 20- to 30-mile bike ride or painting.

Book you’re reading: A Year of Living Consciously, by Gay Hendricks.

Book you’ve been meaning to get to: The Bible.

Favorite movie: Gladiator [pictured ].

Who would play you in your life story? Tom Hanks [pictured ].

Personal motto: “Never give up. Always be ready for change.”

JCKONLINE.COM

ARTWORK: © JOHN ATENCIO; THE WEEKND: MICHAEL TRAN/FILMMAGIC; HANKS: DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/GETTY; GLADIATOR: © DREAMWORKS/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION; OATMEAL: SAMAEL334/ISTOCK/GETTY

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STYLING: SANDY ARMENI; HAIR: RUBI JONES/JULIAN WATSON AGENCY; MAKEUP: JUSTINE PURDUE AT STREETERS USING NARS COSMETICS; MANICURE: ROSEANN SINGLETON USING DIOR LEVERNIS FOR ART DEPARTMENT; MODEL: JENNA EARLE AT MUSE; DRESS: ALISDAIR NY

34-inch convertible 18k white gold opera necklace with 10.92 cts. t.w. baguette, marquise, and round diamonds, $63,000, Dilamani, sales@ dilamani.com, dilamani.com; 18k white gold hoop earrings with 28 cts. t.w. emeraldcut diamonds and with 28 cts. t.w. oval diamonds, $200,000 per pair, Norman Silverman, 213-687-3985, normansilverman. com; 14k white gold ring with 1.34 cts. t.w. diamonds, $3,700, 18k white gold bracelet with 22.57 cts. t.w. diamonds, $99,500, Beny Sofer, 80030-SOFER, benysofer. com; 14k white gold Lusso ring with 0.99 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,775, Gabriel & Co., 212-519-1400, gabrielny.com

FEATURES P h o t o g r a p h b y Yu l i a G o r b a c h e n k o

Ice Queen DRAPE YOURSELF IN THIS SEASONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOST SIZZLING NEW DIAMOND DESIGNS

P h o t o g r a p h y b y Yu l i a G o r b a c h e n k o Stylist Sandy Armeni Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi

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18k white gold earrings with 3.95 cts. t.w. Crisscut round and 1.05 cts. t.w. round diamonds, $22,046, Christopher Designs, 212-382-1013, christopherdesigns. com; platinum necklace with 9.31 cts. t.w. round and 9.57 cts. t.w. baguette diamonds, $176,000, Jyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

International, 415621-8880, jyescorp. com; Deco Love ring in 14k white gold with 1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,500, Oro Alexander, 800-782-1231, oroalexander.com; Rose Garden 18k white gold bracelet with 40.35 cts. t.w. rose-cut diamonds, $108,680, Vivaan, 212-302-0402, vivaan.us

(PREVIOUS SPREAD) DRESS: JACQUEMUS; (RIGHT) TOP: WANDA NYLON

(Opposite page) 14k white gold Kaslique necklace with 1.01 cts. t.w. diamonds (chain not pictured); $1,095; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com (This page) Hestia 18k gold necklace with 12.85 cts. t.w. diamonds, $38,950, Ashi Diamonds, 800-622-2744, ashidiamonds.com; Eden earrings in 14k gold with 1.64 cts. t.w. white diamonds, $3,640, Shy Creation, 213-6238900, shycreation. com; 14k white gold earring with 0.26 ct. t.w. round brilliant and 1 ct. t.w. pearshape diamonds, $4,930 (sold as pair), Michael John Jewelry, 949-3876777, michaeljohn jewelry.com

(This page) 18k white gold necklace with 20.04 cts. t.w. diamonds, $100,000, Jyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International, 415-621-8880, jyes corp.com; 18k white gold ear climber with 0.88 ct. t.w. round and 1 ct. t.w. pearshape diamonds, $8,000 (sold as pair), Michael John Jewelry, 949-387-6777, michaeljohnjewelry. com; Kaslique 14k white gold drop earrings with 1.19 cts. t.w. diamonds, $1,919 (sold as pair), Gabriel & Co., 212-519-1400, gabrielny.com (Opposite page) 14k white gold earring with 5.05 cts. t.w. diamonds and 0.06 ct. t.w. emeralds; $17,663 (sold as pair); Effy; 212-730-8889; effyjewelry.com

(LEFT) TOP: THE ROW

(LEFT) JACKET: WANDA NYLON; (RIGHT) HAT: MAISON MICHEL; TOP: EMILIO PUCCI

(This page) 18k white gold necklace with 9.55 cts. t.w. diamonds, $185,000, Uneek, 213-6225119, uneekjewelry. com; Heirloom collection Art Deco earrings in 18k gold with 5.4 cts. t.w. diamonds, $14,950, Ashi Diamonds, 800-622-2744, ashidiamonds.com (Opposite page) 18k white gold bar bracelet with 7.92 cts. t.w. mixed-shape diamonds, $60,000, 18k white gold bangle with 11.89 cts. t.w. emerald-cut diamonds, $136,960, Rahaminov Diamonds, 213-6229866, rahaminov. com; 14k white gold bracelets with 2.61–2.75 cts. t.w. diamonds, $6,900–$8,000, 18k white gold bracelet with 13.5 cts. t.w. diamonds, $36,250, Beny Sofer, 80030-SOFER, benysofer. com; East-West

platinum bracelets with 9.7–21 cts. t.w. oval- and emeraldcut diamonds, $25,000–$200,000, Norman Silverman, 213-687-3985, normansilverman. com; platinum ring with 0.26 ct. t.w. diamonds and 3.8 cts. t.w. baguette diamonds, $24,600, Jye’s International, 415-621-8880, jyes corp.com; Slinkie bracelet in 14k gold with 4.1 cts. t.w. diamonds, $10,975, KC Designs, 212-921-9270, kcdesignsnyc.com; 14k white gold ring with 2.28 cts. t.w. diamonds, $7,900, 14k white gold bracelet with 4.97 cts. t.w. diamonds, $18,800, Shy Creation, 213-6238900, shycreation. com; 14k white gold Kaslique band with 1.61 cts. t.w. diamonds, $4,685, Gabriel & Co., 212-519-1400, gabrielny.com

SPOTLIGHT

1.

DE BEERS

CHAIN REACTION W H AT I S B L O C KC H A I N — A N D W H Y D O S O M A N Y PEOPLE CONSIDER IT THE FUTURE OF THE DIAMOND AND JEWELRY INDUSTRY?

De Beers is the biggest company in the diamond industry, so its blockchain project—done with BCG Digital Ventures, a division of Boston Consulting Group—has generated a lot of noise.

The idea is “to create a tamperproof, immutable, absolutely trustworthy public ledger that will follow the path of a diamond along its journey,” De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver tells JCK. This will, Cleaver says, provide more transparency about a diamond’s origins for both banks and consumers.

From what the company has said in private briefings, it plans to limit this tracking to stones 2 cts. and above. The project will not be administered by De Beers but, in keeping with the decentralized nature of blockchain, will be run by an independent foundation made up of industry representatives. Still, it’s not clear what De Beers ultimately plans to do with this newfound ability to track diamonds—the miner says it intends to leave that up to the industry. It has suggested that companies could eventually develop apps that can operate on top of its platform, as they do with the iOS or Android operating systems.

By Rob Bates Illustrations by Infomen

D

E BEERS HAILS its blockchain technology as a “game changer.”

Another company boasts its blockchain project will “revolutionize” the diamond biz. A third aims to simply “transform” it.

A lot of people in the trade are talking about blockchain and its possibly industry-changing powers. Yet not everyone talking about the concept truly understands what it is. (Even this author is still a little confused.)

Blockchain is, plainly put, a digital ledger. It was invented and popularized by the (pseudonymous) creator of bitcoin, Satoshi Nakamoto, as a means to record transactions in that cryptocurrency. It works by decentralizing data. So instead of having information stored in one place, it’s housed at several different locations, with each link on the “chain” needing to agree that every piece of data is correct. As a result, the information is far more difficult to tamper with, and each entry is immutable: Once information is entered into the blockchain, it can’t be changed, and every new entry needs the assent of every link of the chain. That makes transactions more secure, but also could speed them up, since they are done peer-to-peer, without a middleman. It’s what allows bitcoin to function like a currency, even though there is no central bank involved to record transactions.

The Economist calls blockchain the “trust machine,” and adherents believe it could solve one of the central problems of the internet: Its Wild West nature breeds considerable insecurity. Let’s say—to use a jewelry-specific example— someone wants to buy a used Rolex online. The way things work now, the buyer must trust that the seller is offering a genuine watch. But what if the seller could provide 100 percent unforgeable proof that the watch is the real deal, thanks to a blockchain-based registry? That opens up a host of possibilities.

Blockchain has become the rage in both tech and investor circles, hailed as the future of everything from voting (no need for recounts!) to energy (a shared grid!) to credit cards (no more fraud!). Some even see it as transformative technology, comparing it to TCP/IP, the protocol that gave birth to the internet.

Given all this, it’s perhaps not surprising that some want to bring blockchain to diamonds and jewelry, an industry that just about everyone admits is ripe for reinvention.

At press time, JCK counted at least seven blockchain-related industry projects.

Most of these initiatives have overlapping visions and goals. They all aim to boost transparency in the business. Some hope to increase liquidity; others aim to make trading easier. Plus, their backers all believe they will bring massive change to the industry. And who knows? Some just might.

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3.

CARATS.IO

2.

EVERLEDGER One of the first companies to talk about blockchain in the trade, Everledger has been mainly focused on building an “insurance fraud detection system” for diamonds. The system links previously “siloed” insurance company databases, giving them a way to validate claims and alerting them if someone has submitted multiple claims for the same stone. Everledger eventually aims to link up gem labs and law enforcement to the system and provide an all-around system for the recovery of stolen property. So far, close to 1 million diamonds have been entered into its system.

But now the company has expanded into verifying the sources of diamonds, and hopes to create what Leanne Kemp, the company’s GIA-educated CEO and founder, calls a “digital twin” for each stone. It’s working with Indian manufacturer Dharmanandan Diamonds on its Diamond Time-Lapse Protocol, which—like De Beers’ program— tracks a diamond through the supply chain. A similar project involves e-tailer Brilliant Earth, which wants a system that will provide data about the working conditions that created the stone.

Everledger is also dipping its toe in the gemstone arena, working with the Gübelin Gem Lab on a chain-of-custody system for gemstones to back up the data generated by that lab’s DNA-like Emerald Paternity Test.

Eventually, the program will be expanded to paraiba tourmalines and cultured pearls.

All this activity has attracted notice, and not just in the industry. Everledger just received $10.8 million in Series A funding.

Carats.io is an ambitious initiative developed with the Israel Diamond Exchange, which encompasses a price list, a trading platform, and no less than two cryptocurrencies.

The first component is a price index for diamonds, called GDX. Based on actual trades conducted at the Israel Diamond Exchange, the index provides both daily and weekly price quotes using a proprietary algorithm that takes into account 14 different diamond parameters. To ensure the index’s independence, it is monitored by accounting firm Ernst & Young.

The GDX will provide value for the basket of diamonds that back up Carats.io’s two blockchain-backed cryptocurrencies—Cut and Carat.

Cut, a trade-only currency, will be used as the basis for a dealer-to-dealer trading network, letting dealers buy diamonds by trading Cut tokens from one digital wallet to another.

This has certain advantages, says the Israel Diamond Institute’s outgoing managing director Eli Avidar. “If you are trading with the token, you can limit your interactions with the banks. That will save us time and payments. It will assist a lot of the small- and mediumsize companies in our trade who are finding it difficult to open up accounts.”

The digital trail could also be used to improve trade transparency. That represents a change from bitcoin, which has become notorious as a haven for money laundering and ransomware payments, says Carats.io CEO Avishai Shoushan. “Instead of using bitcoin to hide money, this will actually shed light on the money trail.”

The second currency, called Carat, is a diamond-backed cryptocurrency that will bring new money into the business, Avidar says. “Until now, investment bodies couldn’t invest in diamonds because they could never price the stone,” he says. “There were too many elements. This provides an avenue for outside investment into our industry.”

4.

DIAMOND CHAIN A lot of Carats.io’s ideas also form the basis of Diamond Chain, a stillnew initiative—it has no website as of yet—that hopes to develop a diamond tracking system, an international trading network, and a diamond-backed cryptocurrency.

The currency aspect fuels the founders’ most ambitious visions: Their intent is to create a new monetary system that can be used worldwide.

“Bitcoin is backed by a social consensus,” says cofounder Miguel Diaz Montiel. “It goes up and down. This [diamond-backed] currency cannot go to zero because it’s backed by a real thing. If bitcoin was backed up by something tangible, you could have a universal currency without boundaries.”

The company believes it can secure more than $1 billion in diamond inventory to back its new coins. According to Montiel, the gems wouldn’t be housed in just one location, but—in true blockchain style—they would reside in different places, as a kind of decentralized Fort Knox.

5.

AND THE REST… And as if those initiatives weren’t enough, Canadian miner Lucara Diamond Corp. recently bought Clara Diamond Solutions Corp., whose blockchain-based technology tracks diamonds and optimizes diamond yield. In the meantime, Mumbai, India–based manufacturer H.K. Group is using blockchain to boost the back end of its diamond-selling app.

And a company called CEDEX has developed yet another diamond exchange and cryptocurrency, in conjunction with trading network IDEX, with the goal of “transforming diamonds into a new asset class,” according to its website.

That’s a lot of projects—as even boosters like Kemp admit. In fact, she worries there may be too many initiatives involving diamonds—an industry generally known for being slow on the uptake. She feels the “nerds” of the diamond business need to forge a common protocol.

“If the industry doesn’t get together, we will spend the next few years unraveling the spaghetti,” she says. “It will turn into Apple versus Android. This industry can’t do that. We are too small.”

Still, she has no doubt that blockchain will become the future of the industry—and of many other things.

“In five years, we won’t be talking about blockchain,” she predicts.

“It will be ubiquitous.”

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Circa 1900 French Art Nouveau 18k gold and enamel brooch with 36 ct. hexagonal-cut topaz and 1.3 cts. t.w. rose- and Old European–cut diamonds; $100,000; Macklowe Gallery; 212-6446400; macklowe gallery.com

STOP THINKING ABOUT ADDING VINTAGE TO YOUR STORE’S COLLECTION AND START SHOPPING FOR A STELLAR ASSORTMENT NOW. WHERE TO BEGIN? THIS ARTICLE IS A GREAT PLACE TO START.

By Amy Elliott P h o t o g r a p h y b y K e n j i To m a Prop st yling by Eriko Nagata

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Edwardian necklace with a 1 ct. diamond, 3.1 cts. t.w. accent diamonds, and a 12.55 mm pearl drop; $12,500; Provident Jewelry; 561-7474449; provident jewelry.com

Victorian star Iris necklace with 6 cts. t.w. diamonds and 5 cts. t.w. amethysts on 100inch antique gold chain; $75,000; Toni + ChloĂŤ Goutal; chloegoutal@ gmail.com; toniand chloegoutal.com

14k yellow gold pin with 0.8 ct. t.w. rubies and 0.72 ct. t.w. diamonds, circa 1940s; $2,495; The Gold Hatpin; 708-445-0610; goldhatpin.com

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Ruby, rose quartz, and enamel Fleur gray and yellow gold brooch by Suzanne Belperron, circa 1936; price on request; Siegelson; 212-8322666; siegelson.com

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NO DOUBT ABOUT IT: VINTAGE JEWELS ARE HUGELY IN VOGUE, making it the perfect time to add an estate jewelry capsule to your store’s offerings. Whether you’re dipping a toe in for the first time or looking to grow your current business, these pro tips will set you up for success.

BUY “OVER THE COUNTER” Successful estate jewelers acquire their inventory from a number of sources, including local and online auctions, flea markets, and, at the highest level, from professional dealers at antiques fairs. That said, you get the best bargains when you purchase directly from the consumer.

Lee Siegelson, a New York City–based dealer of museumquality antique jewels, looks to acquire “the absolute best examples, wherever I find them,” he says. “Of course, it’s preferable to develop a relationship with a family and purchase a piece that has never been seen on the market before.”

Consider contacting local attorneys who handle estates for some leads. You can also let your customers know that you’re in the market for their heirloom jewelry. How to do this tastefully?

“We recently did a few radio ads for an antique trunk show at our store and mentioned that we’re open to buying, which brought in a few interesting pieces,” says Steve Quick, owner of Steve Quick Jeweler in Chicago.

STOCK THE MOST POPULAR ERAS When curating a vintage collection, stay focused on the eras that are trending. JCK has confirmed that Art Deco and Victorian jewels continue to be hot. “The trendsetters on Instagram are

loving anything Georgian, mourning jewelry, and rose-cut diamonds,” says Diane Richardson, owner of the Gold Hatpin in the Chicago area. “I consistently sell more rings than anything else. And charms—all kinds of interesting little hanging fobs, padlocks, figas, and talismans—sell well.”

Staple pieces, like Art Deco and Edwardian engagement rings and platinum or white gold filigree jewelry, are always popular, as are designs from the 1960s and ’70s, particularly those signed

by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. “Really, anything mid–20th century on is popular and wearable,” says Debbi Wilson, owner of Vendome Collection in San Antonio. “A Cartier long pendant necklace from the ’70s or an Angela Cummings inlaid bangle from the ’80s are nice and can be thought of as casual or dressy.”

The savviest estate and vintage jewelry sellers always curate with an eye for unique, one-of-a-kind designs—say, a hammered silver cape clasp by Alexander Calder or a Bakelite suite by artist Daniel Brush. “The authentic and rare will always be highest in demand—that’s the name of the game,” says Mia Moross, owner of The One I Love NYC.

RESEARCH PERIODS AND PRICES The success of your vintage jewelry business requires conducting abundant research about the eras you’re carrying—at a minimum, the dates, the design hallmarks and distinctions, as well as the definitive makers. You’ll need to appear knowledgeable and authoritative to customers who are often eager to acquire this knowledge themselves. Your command of this information will also help customers understand the rarity of an item and how this affects the price.

Speaking of price, these days customers can learn a lot about the history of a given piece online, so be sure to do your own homework. “It’s harder for a dealer to argue with an educated customer,” says vintage jewelry dealer Robin Katz, who sells to the trade and to the public. “It’s a good idea to Google a piece before purchasing in case it’s been in a recent auction,” she adds. “The exposure a piece receives while in an auction may affect a retailer’s ability to resell that piece and what they can charge for it. You may be quoted a more favorable price, whether it’s sold or not.”

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Likewise, the more informed you are about antique jewelry, the less likely you are to fall victim to shady deals. Many jewelers report interactions with vendors who pass off reproductions as genuine antiques. Whether they do so knowingly or unknowingly, arming yourself with information makes you much less vulnerable. At trade shows, try to network with pros who know more than you. Most are generous with their expertise, and once you establish a relationship, you can refer business to each other as needed.

CREATE CAPTIVATING DISPLAYS What’s the best way to merchandise vintage jewelry? A crowded case can make customers feel like they’re discovering something special. But generally speaking, less is more. Cases dedicated to a single era can be an effective way to help collectors shop.

Meanwhile, many jewelers find that mixing vintage and newly minted pieces helps draw in a broader range of customers.

Blogger, vintage jewelry lover, and collector Becky Stone (aka @DiamondsintheLibrary) has consulted—and shopped—many an antique jewelry storefront. Her advice: “I love seeing vintage jewelry displayed in vintage boxes,” she says. “It reinforces the fact that if I buy a piece of vintage jewelry, I’m buying a part of history. It also helps emphasize the romance and uniqueness of vintage jewels, rather than their pre-owned status.”

SELL ONLINE “We wouldn’t dream of not listing our vintage capsule on the website, as that’s often the first point of contact a client will have with our brand,” says Jennifer Gandia, co-owner of New York City–based Greenwich St. Jewelers.

For website design inspiration, check out Trumpet & Horn, Fox & Bond, Victor Barboné, and Erstwhile Jewelry, which nail it in terms of optics, user experience, and making vintage jewelry feel fresh and wearable.

Finally, enlist a professional photographer to shoot your collection. For product description pages, go with a clean, simple presentation (no models or additional styling) so clients can embrace every detail.

ENTICE, ENGAGE, AND EDUCATE That most vintage jewelry departs drastically from the norm makes it a natural fit for promoting on Instagram. Use this, and your other social media platforms, to herald new acquisitions (many sales happen through the direct message feature). “Find out what separates you from the rest of the herd,” Moross says. “We’re known for our lengthy storylike posts that educate our followers and get them interested in the historical value of each piece.”

“Vintage is something rare, something with a story, and there’s nothing millennials like better than something that has a story.”

—Becky Stone, Diamonds in the Library

Seth Berman, a partner at Provident Jewelry, a south Florida– based retailer with a thriving estate jewelry business, suggests treating your vintage collection as its own brand with its own marketing strategy (including print, online, and TV ads, signage, and email blasts)—much as you would for one of your store’s best-selling contemporary lines. “The buy/sell/trade trifecta is essential to our business, and we’re always communicating that,” he says. “It’s a huge draw for customers.”

Remember, customers are in it for the romance. “Stores that know how to market the romance of antique diamonds do really well with them,” says Eric Mor, president of Abe Mor Diamond & Estate Buyers in New York City. “When you tell someone, ‘This stone was cut in the 1850s and came out of one of two diamond mines operating in South Africa at the time,’ their eyes light up.”

And use the word vintage whenever applicable. “ ‘Estate’ makes most people think of funerals, and ‘pre-owned’ calls to mind a bag of old T-shirts dropped off at the Goodwill,” Stone says. “Vintage is something rare, something with a story, and there’s nothing millennials like better than something that has a story.”

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CY B E RC R I M E :

IS

YOUR

FROM PHISHING TO SOCIAL SCAMS, ONLINE CRIME IS RUNNING RAMPANT B y S t e p h a n i e Vo z z a P h o t o g r a p h b y K e n j i To m a

AT

RISK?

127

F

ROM SMASH-AND-grabs to diamond switches, jewelers are well aware of the traditional techniques criminals use to target the industry, but a growing number of thieves aren’t coming through the front door or window. Cybercrime increased dramatically in 2017, with an average dollar loss of $1.2 million, according to Jewelers’ Security Alliance (JSA), and it’s likely to continue.

“Most jewelry businesses are not tech savvy, and are either unaware or unprepared to avoid cyber-enabled crime,” says JSA president John J. Kennedy. “The potential dollar losses are very high, and there often will not be insurance coverage.”

With the rise of new technologies comes the rise of data sharing and collection and a corresponding increase in cyber threats, says Miya Owens, assistant general counsel for the Jewelers Vigilance Committee. “With so many publicized data breaches in recent years, the issue of cybersecurity is hotter than ever, because like any business, jewelers want to keep their data secure and protect the reputations of their businesses.”

PROP STYLIST: ERIKO NAGATA; HAWAIIAN FISHHOOK PENDANT ON CHAIN IN 18K YELLOW GOLD WITH 0.25 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $1,789, NATIVE HANDS JEWELRY HAWAII, NTVHANDS@YAHOO.COM, 808-221-7221

BE AWARE OF JEWELRY-SPECIFIC SCAMS Kennedy says the main risk for jewelers isn’t being hacked, like in the Equifax or Target data breaches. Instead, 95 percent or more of the cyber-related losses are through social engineering, where criminals manipulate people into providing information or taking action through email or direct contact using information gleaned from the internet. The tactic is successful because the requests look and sound legitimate.

One of the most common social engineering scams targeting retail jewelers, vendors, and chains involves the use of impersonation to gain information, merchandise, or money.

“The criminals use social media, websites, and telephone calls to obtain information about a firm so that they can knowledgeably order product or get money,” Kennedy says. “They do extensive online research and probing phone calls to set up an order.”

After the order is placed, the criminals will attempt to get the tracking number of a shipment and then contact the shipper to have it diverted to their desired location. A couple of years ago, this scam resulted in losses exceeding $1 million from high-end, luxury jewelry firms that believed they were lending jewelry to a media executive for video and ad shoots. The scam’s leader, who was based in Miami, had several runners and accomplices. He was caught in 2017 and pleaded guilty.

Other impersonations through email involve criminals pretending to be customers or employees of another branch of a retail chain. They request to have merchandise expedited to a customer or to the home address of a fictitious “employee,” or they fraudulently redirect the items to a new address once in transit.

“Jewelers should never give out shipping numbers under any circumstances and should advise their shipper never to change the destination of a package,” Kennedy says. “To prevent losses, it is necessary to contact the true person by telephone to confirm that the request was genuine.”

CREATE A CYBERSECURITY PLAN Protect your business by making sure proper firewalls and anti-malware systems are installed and kept up to date. All jewelers should have a written cybersecurity plan that employees must read and sign. Conduct regular staff meetings and periodic reviews of cyber protocols, and discuss current scams that are targeting jewelers and retailers. Also, educate your staff on common cyber-enabled crimes, such as opening or clicking links in unknown or suspicious phishing emails.

“Even emails from people, customers, or vendors that seem familiar can be spoof emails,” says Kennedy, adding that criminals make slight changes to real email addresses, such as adding or changing an extra letter. “Look for unfamiliar foreign domains, misspellings, and other anomalies. If a transaction is involved, call the known person on the telephone to confirm that the transaction is not a fraud.”

Phishing emails continue to grow in frequency and severity each year. A report

by Infosecurity online magazine found that 75 percent of surveyed organizations were phished in 2017.

“Cybercriminals conduct more phishing attacks during peak retail season, in hopes the business employees are so busy they let their guard down,” says Don Lewis, senior marketing manager of cybersecurity company EdgeWave. “Businesses have a higher chance of being phished during Black Friday, Cyber Monday, and other holidays with peak retail sales. It only takes one wrong click to become susceptible to a data breach.”

In addition to being careful about people who approach your business, be mindful of the information you are sharing. Kennedy warns jewelers against including virtual store tours on their websites, which allow criminals to case the store without even entering it.

“Do not post pictures and names of staff on websites or social media,” he adds.

“Make sure employees realize that they are jewelers 24/7, and what they post on social media about their residence, children, vacations, movements, autos, etc., can be used by criminals in planning crimes against their firms.”

And take inventory of the data you collect and store, such as customer credit card numbers and addresses and employee Social Security numbers. Classify your data according to its sensitivity, and reassess who has permission to access it. Restricted information—for example, financial records or account information—is your most sensitive business data, while confidential data include customer and employee information. Trusted employees may be privy to confidential data, but few if any should have access to restricted information.

“Knowing your data will enable you to protect your data,” ASSEMBLE A CYBER TEAM Owens Before a breach occurs, hire a security consulsays. tant who can find weak areas and provide solutions, Owens says: “I recently attended a class with a third-party consultant who showed everyone, in real time, how easy it can be to access private company and government websites and wreak havoc.”

And consider cyber insurance that will help in the event you fall victim to a cybercriminal. “A lot of businesses think, ‘We’re a small business. Nobody will target us,’ ” says David Derigiotis, corporate vice president and national professional liability practice leader for Burns & Wilcox, a Michigan-based insurance firm that specializes in cybersecurity. “Do you have employees? Does anybody operate a computer? When information is compromised, it’s often a person working behind the counter, checking email, and clicking on a phishing link. Cyber insurance quickly and thoroughly handles the situation from start to finish.”

We’re living in a world where all information has been compromised, and every individual at every business is at risk, Derigiotis explains. “The problem doesn’t look to be getting better,” he says. “It’s better to be prepared instead of being caught holding the bag after an attack.”

NEW IN TOWN F PROSPEROUS MOM-AND -POP JEWELERS ARE ADDING L O C AT I O N S A S O P P O RT U N I T Y K N O C K S

By Whitney Sielaff I l l u s t r a t i o n s b y Ni l s - Pe t t e r E k w a l l

OR THE FIRST time in a generation, conditions may be more favorable for independent jewelers to open new doors than to close existing ones.

The booming economy has whetted shoppers’ appetites for jewelry.

Meanwhile, more permanent factors driving business opportunities include the new tax overhaul—which is unleashing cash flow and heightening incentive to make capital purchases— and a weeding out of competitors over recent, leaner decades.

“This is the second great opportunity for expansion I’ve seen in the 50plus years I’ve been in the business,” says Lee Berg, CEO and founder of Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry, which operates eight stores in Louisiana, Mississippi, and Texas and is now opening a unit in Albuquerque, N.M. “Our first big chance was when Zale went into bankruptcy in 1992, allowing us to expand in Louisiana and Mississippi. Today, with stores going out and markets opening up, good retailers can similarly find deals all over the place.”

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THE ADAGE ABOUT LOCATION IS KEY TRUST YOUR BLUEPRINT Opening additional units is generally less tricky than establishing an initial sustainably successful store, since jewelers can draw on their experience.

“We recently revamped our model,” says Kenyatta Black, who owns Philadelphia Diamond Co. in Philadelphia with his wife, Nicole, and is opening a second store in Atlanta. “We went to a smaller footprint, reducing inventory and focusing more on trends. And we really honed our targeting. We’re very confident the same recipe can work elsewhere.”

Chuck Cooper, owner of Van Atkins Jewelers in New Albany, Miss., recently opened a second store on historic Courthouse Square in Oxford, Miss.: “We’ve got our fast sellers, the pieces we sell over and over. Prior to opening we loaded up on those. And then we split them between the two stores.”

Multiple doors also enable jewelers to rotate merchandise, presenting pieces to a broader audience. “We carry an extensive diversification of product,” explains Harold Rousso, owner of Brownlee Jewelers, which recently opened its eighth store in the Charlotte, N.C., market. “With several locations I’m able to move inventory around, customizing selection for the clientele at each store.”

Components of the business that can easily be centralized include operations and marketing. And depending on proximity of new and existing stores, marketing outlay can frequently be controlled by sharing expenses.

“We already have our area covered pretty well,” Cooper says. “We did add a couple billboards dedicated to the new location. But mainly we’re just including both stores now in most of our existing marketing.”

Opening units in new markets, however, requires a bit more work. “But it’s always based on projected volume,” explains Ryan Berg, who as Lee Michaels’ market president will add the Albuquerque store to his portfolio. “And with our experience in other markets, we can come in with a pretty good idea of what pricing should be.”

Jewelers stress that the primary challenge in opening a new store is picking the right spot.

“We consider new opportunities based on several key factors—primarily the economic climate of the area and its competitive landscape,” says Ryan Berg. “When we began looking at Albuquerque, we found there wasn’t a Rolex or David Yurman account in all of New Mexico. You have to look for the right opportunity. The real trick is to figure out which ones to take

and which ones to pass on.”

For those opening doors closer to home, fears of cannibalizing existing customer bases often prove unfounded.

“Our flagship store is a destination business, and we didn’t want to risk losing that,” Cooper says. “So we began by looking at a town about an hour and a half away. But the Oxford location was just too hard to turn down. And so far, we’ve found that 8 out of 10 people coming in are new business.”

MINDING THE STORE Along with selecting the right location, staffing poses the other big challenge facing those seeking to expand. Jewelers say that, as always, family is key in this industry so reliant on trust.

“We have our third generation in place now,” says Leitzel, who just opened his family’s second store. “I’m equal partners with my daughter, Allison. And her husband, Trevor, is a CPA. So we had three main players who could handle either store at any one time. We were confident we had the staff to make this happen.”

Growth also offers owners a chance to create attractive career opportunities for nonfamily employees. “The hardest part is staffing,” says Rousso of operating his company’s eight stores. “But people come to us and see they can grow within the company. Everyone in our management positions started as salespeople and have climbed the ladder.”

Once a market is determined, choosing a specific space is just as crucial. For jewelers who know their area well, the decision might be based on intuition.

“I had been looking at this property for three years,” recalls Ceylon Leitzel, co-owner and president of Leitzel’s Jewelry in Myerstown, Pa., which opened a second store in Hershey, Pa., in June. “It’s right on the main highway going in and out of town. And we’re right in a triangle with one road going to

the country club and the other to the park. It’s a prime spot.”

Others prefer to work with a real estate agent. “I went online, found a commercial Realtor, and emailed him what I was looking for,” says Kenyatta Black of his new Atlanta location. “He came back with seven places. The first was in Buckhead, in the Monarch Centre. It had previously been under plans to become a jewelry store but hadn’t worked out. It was like God had his hand in this.

I didn’t look at the other six.”

UP AND RUNNING Buildout itself can range from minor to extensive. “We didn’t require any major construction. The only things we needed to do were paint, flooring, and cases,” Nicole Black says. “In Philly, our color palette is purple and gray. We have a certain look, and both stores look very similar.”

Redd & Co. Fine Jewelers, which in July opened a second store in Allentown, Pa., undertook more extensive development. “We created a whole new concept of a store, even including a TV lounge with a beer and coffee bar,” says co-owner Redwan Kholi. “We made it very comfortable, and people really enjoy the atmosphere. They walk in and say, ‘Wow.’ ” Getting a new location up and running may take longer than expected.

Jewelers advise formalizing a plan with a detailed timeline and doing your best to stick to it.

“We wanted [the store] to look and feel like the South, so we hired an architect and a local designer who specialize in antebellum houses,” says Cooper, describing his second Mississippi location. “She had everything picked out before we started, so things did go quickly.”

In choosing to open a store in Oxford’s historic downtown square, Cooper had to overcome some problems most jewelers don’t encounter when expanding their business. “It has these hundred-year-old floors, and we had to raise them,” he says. “We had to tear down all the walls and install the lighting, nicer bathrooms, and the alarm system and have all of our cabinets custom-built. But even so, the construction ultimately only took about a month. We were ready by the opening game of Ole Miss football season. That’s very big here.”

FINAL SALE J CLOSING YOUR BUSINESS REQUIRES MONTHS OF C A R E F U L P L A N N I N G. F O L LOW T H E S T E P S O U T L I N E D H E R E TO E N S U R E A S M O OT H S H U T D OW N.

By Amanda Baltazar I l l u s t r a t i o n s b y Ni l s - Pe t t e r E k w a l l

IM JESSOP HAS been selling fine jewelry for 45 years, but in the not-too-distant future, he plans to spend time on his boat, buy a home in the mountains, and enjoy a monthlong vacation in France.

Jessop is retiring at age 65, but his three sons aren’t interested in taking over his 126-year-old business, Jessop’s, in San Diego. So he’s closing it for good.

Like starting a business, closing one—particularly one as old as Jessop’s—takes a lot of work and careful planning.

“Ideally, you have a wind-down plan,” says Michael Levin, associate professor of marketing and chair at Otterbein University in Westerville, Ohio. “Anticipating closing your store three to four years out is the best idea, so you can prepare. It’s not something you should do two months out.”

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SELL WHILE YOU CAN Jessop started thinking about shutting down eight years ago. He was resistant to selling the firm because so many of his customers were people he’d known and brought into the business personally. Instead, he ran a 90-day closing sale, which concluded in February and sold around 90 percent of his stock, exceeding his expectations by 70 percent. He hired national jewelry liquidator Wilkerson to run his sale and spent about $100,000 to advertise it.

While a closing sale is the best way to dispose of inventory, Levin says, you must approach such a sale with care. Be sure to consider how long it takes to sell things, and don’t buy too much leading up to your closure.

Let your best customers know your plans in advance, he adds, so they can place early-bird orders.

MIND THE RED TAPE

Beyond a sale, there are numerous loose ends to tie up when closing a business. Make sure you have enough cash on hand to pay your creditors and avoid going into bankruptcy, advises Levin.

And, he adds, expect your credit terms to change and become more stringent.

Jessop says the paperwork involved in closing the store has also been time-consuming, and involves organizing IRS filings, sales records, and sales documents.

Karen Capestrain closed Capestrain Jewelers, a 62-year-old business in Canton, Ohio, in March.

Over 29 years, she had watched business inexorably slide downhill as the town “becomes more desperate,” she says.

Once she made her decision, she notified her attorney, who will close down the name of

After 51 years of running Duncan & Boyd Jewelers in Amarillo, Texas, Ron Boyd is also poised to retire, citing his daughter’s recent breast cancer diagnosis, high overhead, and his age (74) as factors in his decision to shut down.

At press time, Boyd was preparing to shutter his store in mid-May, having decided to do so eight months prior. He began a very successful 28-day sale in April. He also relied on Wilkerson, which allowed him to make house calls when necessary, because Wilkerson employees were running the store.

Boyd says he did about a year’s worth of business in the three or four months leading up to the close because he kept his cases full of best sellers. “You have to keep traffic coming in because people want to buy something just because you’ve been here so long,” he says.

the business so it’s no longer an operating entity.

Meanwhile, Capestrain’s accountant helped her close her business accounts and take care of the financials and the practicalities.

She paid herself and her employees one last time, sent back her credit card machine, turned off the phone lines and alarm systems, and put everything in the building up for sale via a newspaper advertisement. She also contacted everyone she knew to promote the final sale. Anything remaining she gave to Habitat for Humanity.

It may sound obvious, but don’t forget to tell your landlord you’re closing up shop. Likewise, inform your local business authorities, such as the Chamber of Commerce, of your plans to shut down. And, last but not least, remember to pay your final business taxes.

All the new merchandise he carried during the sale came in on consignment, so his suppliers took back anything unsold.

Phyllis Gunther also favored the closing-sale approach. She ran a half-price special before she closed Yogo Sapphire Jewelry in Great Falls, Mont., in April, and her granddaughter plans to sell leftover merchandise through an online store.

Gunther advertised the sale on a sandwich board positioned outside the store but was reluctant to place advertisements to announce it because of the cost. “I’m trying to close smart,” she says. “People say it doesn’t do much good to stay open beyond a month of a sale.”

Levin, however, suggests that six months is the longest a store should remain open after its closure is announced.

NO HARD FEELINGS One of the hardest parts of closing a business is dealing with the effect your decision will have on your employees—and yourself. The people who work for you are losing their jobs and benefits, and you are bidding farewell to your profession and an accustomed way of life.

Jessop announced his closure to staff and offered them severance packages and bonuses based on what they sold during the sale “so there was an advantage to staying until we closed.” He also offered an additional three months of health care coverage and has had retirement plans running for years. “I want to make sure everyone is properly taken care of,” he says.

To announce the closure of Duncan & Boyd, Ron Boyd sent a letter to his best customers and threw a going-away party. He informed staff two days before the sale started and presented them with a lucrative proposition: $12,000 to each employee who promised to stick around through the end of the sale. All of them stayed.

And then there’s taking care of yourself. Your business is like a child, and you’ll likely miss not just the daily routine but also your employees, your customers, and, most of all, the sense of purpose that comes with running your own business.

“Treat the end of your business like a death and grieve for it,” advises Levin. And beyond that, he suggests, make plans for how you’ll keep busy after your retirement.

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T H E

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M A L LS OF AMERICA

KING OF PRUSSIA 160 N. Gulph Road King of Prussia, Pa.

JCK’S ONGOING SERIES ON THE SHOPPING CENTERS FINDING S U C C E S S A M I D A N E V E R - C H A N G I N G R E TA I L L A N D S C A P E

HOW A SUBURBAN PHILLY SHOPPING CENTER BECAME AS ESSENTIAL TO THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE AS A CHEESESTEAK “WHIZ WIT”

by Bob Ickes

POOR GEORGE WASHINGTON. It’s sad enough that he had to watch 2,000 of his troops freeze and starve to death during the winter of 1777 in what is now Valley Forge National Park, just outside Philadelphia. But the guy still gets no respect. Sure, 1.2 million tourists may visit the park every year. But it plays underdog to an attraction 3 miles down the road: a shopping mall. The King of Prussia mall hauls in some 25 million visitors annually. It was named, like its hometown of King of Prussia, Pa., for an 18th-century local tavern, which was in turn named for King Frederick the Great of Prussia. And since its inception, as a dreary, open-air snooze of a shopping plaza in 1963, it has cheated death and beaten the odds.

Indeed, as malls across the nation wither and starve—financial analysts Credit Suisse estimate that at least 25 percent of the remaining 1,100 sites could close within the next five years—King of Prussia grows by the month.

It’s now one of the big-deal destinations in the Philadelphia metropolitan region, considered as necessary as Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, the cheesesteak, the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art (climbed by Sylvester Stallone in Rocky), and noble Valley Forge.

Now, we Philly folks are suckers for history. Especially when we’re the ones making it—in underdog tales of survival and redemption, à la Rocky Balboa and the Philadelphia Eagles (your 2018 Super Bowl champions).

The King of Prussia mall slides neatly into this narrative. On the face of it, there’d seem to be no sane explanation for the triumph of the 450-store behemoth. If we’re talking jewelry—and, of course, we are—it’s a mishmash of luxury (Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Philadelphia icon Bailey Banks & Biddle) as well as the longtime companions of mall leasing agents everywhere (Kay Jewelers, Zales, Piercing Pagoda). If we’re talking fashion, Jimmy Choo, Stuart Weitzman, Diane von Furstenberg, and Carolina Herrera offer

their only Pennsylvania boutiques here. They snuggle up against Aéropostale, the Gap, and American Eagle. And there’s food.

Lots of food. Some 40 restaurants and the best cheesesteaks north of South Philly’s Passyunk Avenue.

The mall would seem to lack any specific personality or identity. Visitors come purely for the retail. You won’t spot celebrities here—the only boldface shoppers mall historian and author Michael Stefan Shaw can dredge up are Richard Nixon (during a 1968 campaign stop), actor Charlton Heston, and celebrity chef Michael Symon. You don’t feel more important than your neighbors for having stepped inside, as you might, say, at the swank-tacular Bal Harbour Shops in Miami. And you won’t come for the last hope of many American malls: sideshows, death-defying cirques, or fountains dancing to show tunes. There’s no indoor amusement park here, no Hall of Legos, no marzipan topiary. And yet, according to retail analyst Green Street Advisors, King of Prussia earns an average of $975 per retail square foot. The most recent national mall average: $472 per square foot.

Another mystery: It may or not be the “largest mall in America,” so you can’t even brag that you’ve been there, walked that, with any certainty. The International Council of Shopping Centers ranks it first in terms of leasable space, with 2.9 million square feet. But if sheer square footage is your thing, you may be happier in the Mall of America, outside Minneapolis, with its 4.2 million square feet and 90 additional stores. For every analyst you ask, a different ranking emerges for both malls. But

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“I brought my kids here with me in the 1970s, and now I can bring my grandkids here. I just have to keep hydrated. It’s big.”

—Judy Oddo

King of Prussia is owned by Simon Property Group.

Among SPG’s other malls: Roosevelt Field in Garden City, N.Y., and the Galleria in Houston.

how King of Prussia—or KOP, as anyone who’s anyone here calls it—got so big is also a head-scratcher. It sits 19.9 miles from central Philadelphia, and the drive in traffic can be excruciating. The mall has flourished without a single direct link to mass transportation, and the influx of vehicles can be, as my mother likes to put it, a giant case of “Oh, my goodness.”

But it’s traffic—retail traffic—that makes all the difference.

As Suzette Parmley reported in The Philadelphia Inquirer, KOP is within a “day’s drive of 40 percent of the U.S. population… with more than 59,000 people working nearby…and an average household income of $120,000 within 3 miles.”

This is, after all, the Main Line—the blue-blood enclave of The Philadelphia Story, where spoiled heiress Tracy Lord, played by Katharine Hepburn, spouts, “George comes from the so-called lower class…the upper.” And therein may lie the secret to this mystery. KOP seduces every demographic. The eight anchor stores range from another Lord (Lord & Taylor) and Neiman Marcus to Macy’s and Dick’s Sporting Goods. “I don’t feel overwhelmed or like I have all this attitude when I go there,” says veteran shopper Judy Oddo of suburban Bucks County. “I brought my kids here with me in the 1970s, and now I can bring my grandkids here.” She adds: “I just have to keep hydrated. It’s big.”

Philly fireplace mantels are littered with pics of kids posing with the giant bear at KOP’s FAO Schwarz. And sports fanatics (i.e., every Philadelphian) still come to see the former home of their pro tennis team, the Philadelphia Freedoms. The mall parking lots are so vast that the team plunked its courts right there amid the cars.

But in Philadelphia, football is king. So, when the Philadelphia Eagles crushed the Minnesota Vikings, 38-7, to reach the Super Bowl, a retail rivalry ensued. The game was played in Minneapolis, only 15 minutes from the Mall of America. In the days before kickoff, Eagles fans invaded the mall, chanting “E-A-G-L-E-S” and wearing underdog canine masks. Police banned the masks and the noise. Eagles fan Marc Maloso of northeast Philly said, “I’ve always wanted to cross this [off ] my bucket list.” What, the Super Bowl? “No, the Mall of America.” When asked if he had ever been to KOP, he said, “No, that’s not as big.”

Says who?

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WOMEN IN

LOVE ( WITH DIAMONDS)

IN THIS CULTURAL MOMENT DOMINATED

BY MOVEMENTS SUCH AS #METOO AND #TIMESUP, DIAMOND JEWELRY ADVERTISING CAN BE A COMPLICATED ENDEAVOR. THE MOST EFFECTIVE STRATEGY? PLACE REAL WOMEN FRONT AND CENTER. B y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d

A DIAMOND IS FOREVER. The iconic slogan written for De Beers by female copywriter Frances Gerety in 1947 married the concept of eternal love with diamond jewelry for generations.

In almost the same stroke, its message of aspirational romance quashed any realistic option of buying a bride-tobe anything other than a dazzling diamond solitaire. And its subtext simmered with the suggestion that a woman wasn’t really engaged unless she had a diamond on her finger.

The marketing was a total triumph. Demand for diamonds had been waning significantly following the Great

Depression, but the De Beers ads restored cachet to the stone, and public interest surged.

Now, 70 years after the famous tagline debuted in print, De Beers and other major diamond jewelry companies face an eerily similar challenge: making diamonds relevant and alluring to young women at a time when conspicuous luxury consumption can be perceived as show-offy or even tone-deaf.

Compounding the challenge for these brands is the cultural climate, which has been hammered into its current shape by conversations surrounding gender parity, including gender-based abuses of power.

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Forevermark Tribute collection diamond ring stack, starting at $498–$1,498 each, forevermark.com; Freida Pinto and Ashley Graham fete Forevermark.

The marketing of diamonds to women in the era of #MeToo and #TimesUp—important cultural movements that have forced us to take a hard look at some very uncomfortable realities—is understandably tricky business.

A DIAMOND IS FOREVERMARK Appropriately, the company that sold the modern world on the value of diamond jewelry is now at the vanguard of marketing diamonds to one of its fastest-growing demographics: women.

Through marketing and advertising campaigns, De Beers’ sustainably sourced loose diamond brand, Forevermark, has made a concerted effort to connect with female diamond jewelry buyers. The company promoted its ongoing Tribute campaign last year with imagery and video designed to celebrate real women, instead of idealized versions of them.

One beautifully shot video from the initiative shows approachably attractive women caught in the act of doing: parenting, working, performing on stage, dancing, and hitting the town with their significant others. With every scenario, a new line materializes on the screen: “For your independence. For your courage. For your determination. For your playful heart.

For your guiding hand. For your spirit. For the way you love.

For all you are.”

Charles Stanley, president of Forevermark US, says the push to modernize the company’s messaging for women is rooted in the changing demographics of the diamond jewelry buyer.

“The self-purchasing female consumer is definitely growing, and that was part of the rationale behind the Tribute collection and [its marketing],” Stanley says, adding that from 2011 to 2014, men were outspending women on jewelry by $2 billion.

“That has completely reversed now,” he notes, citing a statistic from the 2017 De Beers Insight Report that found women spent $404 million more on jewelry than men last year. “That’s

a $2.5 billion swing,” he says. “That’s enormous. Women really do feel it’s appropriate to celebrate themselves with diamond jewelry. We all had this gut feeling that this was the way things were going. But our research [proved] it.”

Forevermark CEO Stephen Lussier said in a speech in London in September 2017 that while the core of the brand’s marketing is bridal gifting, “what we have to appreciate is that if we market diamonds in the old way, our customers will say that’s not appropriate. The old way was, basically, a man saying, ‘Thank you. I bestow this diamond upon you.’ And that’s not the way women want to be gifted today.… In the advertising we’ve been working

“Couples are much less traditional than they used to be. There are so many different models and configurations of consumers.”

—Beth Gerstein, Brilliant Earth

on, historically, the breadwinner says, ‘Thank you for looking after the family while I’ve been doing other stuff.’ But in the new world, he has to say, ‘I’m so proud of you for everything you do.’

We make that switch, and our diamond will continue to be that symbol. It’s very subtle.”

WOMEN-FIRST MARKETING Other major diamond jewelry brands are following suit.

Hearts On Fire’s “Ignite Something” initiative, which debuted in 2015, features print and video campaigns that dramatize adventurous women acting spontaneously. A recent Ignite

(PREVIOUS SPREAD) EMRE GUVEN/BLAUBUT-EDITION.COM; (THIS PAGE) PINTO & GRAHAM: JENNIFER GRAYLOCK/GETTY FOR FOREVERMARK

Triplicity Golden earrings with 1.42 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold, $8,500, heartsonfire.com; an HOF “Ignite” ad

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Tacori–Marie Claire Power duo Priyanka Chopra and MC editor-in-chief Anne Fulenwider; Sonoma Mist double chain pavé Dew Drop lariat in silver with diamonds, $1,190, tacori.com

CHOPRA AND FULENWIDER: TACORI, COURTESY OF MARIE CLAIRE MAGAZINE; LYNCH & BRACELETS: COURTESY OF TIFFANY & CO.

Actress Kelly Lynch in the Tiffany T campaign; Tiffany T square bracelets in silver and 18k gold with pavé diamonds

Something ad showed a young couple leaping out of a convertible, stripping down to cute bathing suits, and jumping off a cliff into a body of water. The setup is a far cry from the quietly posed models draped in diamonds who used to dominate fine jewelry advertising.

Tiffany & Co. also eschewed static-feeling modeling in the latest campaign for its Tiffany T collection (which includes diamond pieces, but is not strictly a diamond jewelry collection). Instead, the company captured notable female professionals who run the gamut in age, ethnicity, career, and personal style. Recent stars of the campaign include designer Kendall Conrad, blogger Susie Bubble, and model and street-style star Cipriana Quann. In short clips shared on social media, they all talk about courage and strength, as well as jewelry and how it makes them feel.

Ethical diamond jeweler Brilliant Earth also showcases non-models—women of all ages, sizes, and ethnicities—on Instagram and other social media feeds. The brand’s transparent, ethical supply chain provides ample fodder for its marketing. But cofounder and co-CEO Beth Gerstein says the brand is also consciously addressing the growing demographic of female diamond jewelry consumers, in both product and marketing.

“Women have an increasing influence in the engagement ring process,” she says, “and we continue to see this more and more.”

Though Gerstein says the brand’s marketing has always been a hit with females, she’s seen an upswing recently in women involved in the engagement ring buy—and women who purchase their own engagement rings outright.

“Couples are much less traditional then they used to be,” she notes. “We know it’s really important to acknowledge that there are so many different models and [configurations] of consumers.”

Retailer Debbie Klein, owner of Boulder, Colo., fine jewelry store Art + Soul, says she’s also seeing more women and men

shopping for diamond engagement and wedding jewelry together—and that often “she’ll buy his ring, and he will buy her ring.” But decisions on both are typically finalized by women.

REAL-WORLD ROLE MODELS “Women have always been at the core of the business,” says Michelle Adorjan Chila, senior vice president of marketing and public relations for diamond jewelry and bridal brand Tacori.

“But I will definitely say that in the past two to three years, we’ve had an even more radical shift in our understanding about who this customer is and what she responds to.”

Like Stanley at Forevermark, Chila admits that navigating ways to insert her brand into the current cultural conversation, which is bubbling with pressing political and societal discourses, has been a major challenge.

“How do we as a brand have something to say that matters?” she wonders. The answer, many times, has been to champion female-centric causes that are important to both the company and its consumers. For example, last year Tacori sponsored Marie Claire’s Power Trip, an event that gathered 100 New York City–based female execs, founders, and influencers in San Francisco for seminars. And in March, Tacori announced that it’s the launch partner of a new organization and initiative, Shine Together, that celebrates women’s accomplishments and helps create opportunities for women around the world. Tacori’s part in the #ShineTogether initiative was detailed in posts on the brand’s social channels and on the company’s website.

“Women today are choosing jewelry and brands that speak to who they are,” Chila says. “Our future campaigns will be centered around women leading their best lives. It can look like a variety of things—we’re not married to the idea that it has to be one type of girl or relationship, or any relationship at all. We’re taking our cues from real women.”

there’s no

T H E J E W E L RY I N D U S T RY ’ S M O S T P E R I PAT E T I C S O U L S D I S H O N T H E I R FAV O R I T E D E S T I N AT I O N S , WAT E R I N G H O L E S , M U S T - H AV E I T E M S , A N D T H I N G S T H E Y ’ D NEVER EVER DO AGAIN

B y K r i s t i n Yo u n g

G

LOBALIZATION HAS BEEN a buzzword for at least two decades, but jewelers have lived it for centuries. Following a gem from mine to market has always been an international affair—which explains why JCK ’s editors have racked up air miles to India, Italy, Hong Kong, Thailand, and Switzerland this year alone. But that’s nothing compared with the jewelry designers, retailers, and manufacturers who are really on the move, sourcing metals and stones, working with artisans in far-off lands, and attending trade fairs in cities around the world. Now, on the brink of summer vacation, who better to ask for travel advice, favorite restaurants, and bucket list destinations than a cohort of globe-trotting jewelers?

1: TOM BLACHFORD AND KATE BALLIS/ART PARTNER ; 2: IKUN/ISTOCK/GETTY; 3: NIKADA/E+/GETTY

CURE like TRAVEL

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Danielle Zino CEO AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR DANIELLE ZINO New York City Favorite travel destination: Japan (1).

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels:

Sukiyabashi Jiro sushi in Tokyo.

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: White shark

cave diving in Cape Town, South Africa.

One thing you won’t leave home without: Hand cream.

The place that tops your bucket list: Australia (2).

1

2

Lori Kaplan DESIGNER, LORI KAPLAN JEWELRY DESIGN New York City Favorite travel destination:

Paris (3).

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels:

1884 Restaurante Francis Mallmann in Mendoza, Argentina.

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: Ski in

Lake Placid, N.Y. One thing you won’t leave home without: AmEx. The place that tops your bucket list: I don’t have one.

3

146 Favorite travel destination: Any island

in Greece—but most especially Patmos!

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels: The Love Apple in Taos, N.M. A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: Backpacking in Burma. It was

Anna Sheffield DESIGNER ANNA SHEFFIELD New York City

epic done just once, but I like things too much to limit travel to that small of a piece of luggage.

One thing you won’t leave home without:

Goe oil: amazing for dry hands on the plane and makes everywhere you open it smell amazing.

The place that tops your bucket list:

At the moment, Portugal (4).

4

Waris Ahluwalia FOUNDER AND DESIGNER, HOUSE OF WARIS New York City

Favorite travel destination: Thailand.

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels: Strip House in New York

Favorite travel destination: Secret, empty, almost deserted

City (6).

6

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels: Kronenhalle

in Zurich. Delicious food in a century-old restaurant with dark wood walls covered in art by Rodin, Matisse, and Chagall, to name a few.

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: Taking a bicycle ride up to Noël Coward’s estate in Jamaica. It’s a punishing steady-incline ride up and up and up.

One thing you won’t leave home without: My Cultivist membership card. It gets me into my favorite museums around the world.

The place that tops your bucket list: Africa. I’ve been to a few countries, but there is so much more to explore.

5

Brian Korner SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT BELCORSO JEWELRY MANUFACTURING New York City

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: Bungee jumping in Cancún

[Mexico].

One thing you won’t leave home without:

A phone charger.

The place that tops your bucket list:

Antarctica.

Joanne Teichman CO-OWNER, YLANG 23 Dallas Favorite travel destination: London in the fall during Frieze Art Fair, and San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, for New Year’s Eve (7).

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels: Oro at Belmond Hotel Cipriani in Venice.

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: Low-flying seaplane through the snowcapped mountaintops from Whistler to Vancouver, Canada. Emphasis on “low-flying”—lots of mountaintops almost touching our wings!

One thing you won’t leave home without: Lots of phone and iPad chargers. Lots.

The place that tops your bucket list: Jaipur [in northern India].

4: INACIO PIRES/EYEEM/GETTY; 5: VIKTOR_GLADKOV/ISTOCK/ISTOCK/GETTY; 6: COURTESY OF STRIP HOUSE; 7: FERRANTRAITE/ISTOCK/GETTY; 8: JACOB EUKMAN/ISTOCK/GETTY; 9: SYLVAIN SONNET/PHOTOLIBRARY/GETTY

beaches in the Caribbean or Thailand (5).

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Priyanka Murthy FOUNDER AND CHIEF DESIGNER, ARYA ESHA Jacksonville, Fla. 8

Favorite travel destination: I’ve traveled to over 70 countries,

so this is really difficult. Tanzania (8).

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels: Jimmy Woo

Thai in Berlin.

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: Learning how to

shoot an AK-47 in a former Soviet bunker in Riga, Latvia, with my teacher, who was a curmudgeon that didn’t speak a lick of English. He just kept yelling at me to shoot by saying, “Hello, hello, hello!”

One thing you won’t leave home without: Passport.

The place that tops your bucket list: Antarctica.

Dave Bindra VICE PRESIDENT, B & B FINE GEMS Los Angeles Favorite travel destination: Florence, Italy. I could

spend weeks in the Uffizi (9).

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels:

Mott 32 in Hong Kong. From the superchic decor to the music and overall vibe, I could eat there every night I’m in that city. Also, the Iberico barbecue pork might be the most delicious thing I’ve ever had—next to my mother’s cooking, of course.

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again:

7

Probably sleeping on the outside deck of a houseboat while backpacking in south India.

Incredible starlit skyline, but let’s just say the mosquitoes got the best of me.

One thing you won’t leave home without: My friends love to make fun of me for this, but I never travel without sanitizing wipes.

The place that tops your bucket list: Right now, it would have to be Machu Picchu.

9

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Maricha Genovese DESIGNER AND OWNER, MARICHA GENOVESE Somerset, N.J.

11

Favorite travel destination: Capri, Italy (10).

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels: Kitchen Table

in Tulum, Mexico. Get the octopus if you are brave.

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: Swimming in shallow ocean water, where the bottom was covered with stingrays.

One thing you won’t leave home without: My Bullet Journal.

The place that tops your bucket list: Barcelona, Spain.

10

Lepa Galeb-Roskopp DESIGNER, MISAHARA New York City Favorite travel destination: South Africa for my most peaceful state watching the animals (11); Montenegro in the summer because it has the warm sea, mountains, and lifestyle; and

Europe throughout the year—something always different and the history is so fascinating.

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels: Il Pellicano in [Tuscany,] Italy.

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: Hot laps in a Formula 1 three-seater clocking 150 mph with pro driver Didier Theys.

One thing you won’t leave home without: My face creams.

The place that tops your bucket list: Kenya and Tanzania this June.… Looking forward to seeing the great [wildlife] migration.

12

Kathy Rose DESIGNER & CO-OWNER ROSEARK Los Angeles

Favorite travel destination:

in Apple River, Wis.

Bodrum, Turkey.

One thing you won’t leave home without: My jewelry

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels: Argos in

Cappadocia [Turkey].

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: Skydiving

and essential oils.

The place that tops your bucket list: Sailing down the

Nile in Egypt (12).

Lisa Bridge

15

PRESIDENT AND CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER, BEN BRIDGE JEWELER Seattle 13

Jim Rosenheim OWNER, TINY JEWEL BOX Washington, D.C. Favorite travel destination: Paris.

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels: Tamarind Tribeca in

New York City.

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: Climb Machu Picchu.

One thing you won’t leave home without:

My cellphone and my AmEx card.

The place that tops your bucket list:

10: FLAVIO SPUGNA/MOMENT/GETTY; 11: SOUTH AFRICA TOURISM; 12: SILVEREG/ISTOCK/GETTY; 13: ALEKSANDAR GEORGIEV/E+/GETTY; 14: JEFFREY PREHN; 15: BRUNO M SBARRETO/ISTOCK/GETTY; 16: LEV SAVITSKIY/MOMENT/GETTY

Southeast Asia (13).

Favorite travel destination: There are simply

had the food presented by the chef.

too many wonderful places to count!

My husband and I went to Japan on our honeymoon and fell in love. The culture, the food, the people—all wonderfully fascinating.

I’m game for an adventure, and when it doesn’t go right you just end up with a better story later.

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels: We had an incredible meal at

Gaggan restaurant in Bangkok. We had seen the [owner Gaggan Anand] featured on Netflix’s Chef ’s Table and were blown away by our dining experience! The creativity of the food and the mysterious way it was presented made for a magical evening. We were even lucky enough to be seated at Gaggan’s test kitchen and

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again:

One thing you won’t leave home without:

I won’t leave home without my running shoes. I love to take in a new place on foot. I get a feel for the landscape and architecture before the day gets started.

The place that tops your bucket list: I am anxious to get to Cuba soon (15)! I want to experience it before there is too much change. I love the vibrant pictures I have seen and the sense that it is from another era.

Paul Schneider CO-OWNER TWIST & TWISTONLINE Portland, Ore.

Laura Freedman

Favorite travel destination:

Naoshima Island, Japan.

OWNER, BROKEN ENGLISH Los Angeles

14

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels: Barbuto in

Favorite travel destination:

the West Village, New York City (14).

Deià in Majorca, Spain.

Best restaurant you’ve been to on your travels: Midwood Smokehouse

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: Fishing trip

barbecue bar in Charlotte, N.C.

to Christmas Island in the South Pacific.

A supposedly fun thing you’ll never do again: Cliff diving in Maui (16).

One thing you won’t leave home without: A hair tie.

The place that tops your bucket list:

One thing you won’t leave home without: My AmEx card.

The place that tops your bucket list: I don’t have one.

Pink sand beaches in Bermuda.

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THE

A BCs OF

O U R A L M O S T - E X H A U S T I V E G U I D E T O J C K A N D L U X U R Y, ORGANIZED IN A HANDY ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PAV I L I O N S , E V E N T S , T R E N D S , A N D M O R E

By Melissa Rose Bernardo / Photograph by Liam Goodman

W

E KNOW HOW intimidating JCK Las Vegas can be. No matter how much time you allow yourself, there’s never quite enough, is there? Even if we’re there from Wednesday, May 30—the very first day of LUXURY— through Monday, June 4, closing day for JCK, LUXURY, AGTA, and JIS Exchange—who among us could possibly cover all 2,100+ exhibitors? Truth: Even the JCK staffers get overwhelmed! That’s why we’ve combed through this year’s offerings and pulled together an A-to-Z guide of all the best JCK has to offer, from speeches and seminars to pavilions and neighborhoods to fashion, trends, and, of course, jewels aplenty. You might not follow it to the letter, but hey—at least now you know your ABCs!

A

ASSOCIATIONS Get to know the names behind the acronyms on Friday, June 1, when all the heavyweight industry groups converge on the Showcase Stage (Bayside, level 1) for Afternoon With the Associations: The WJA (Women’s Jewelry Association) tackles harassment and discrimination; the JVC (Jewelers Vigilance Committee) takes on lab-grown diamonds disclosure and testing; the NCDIA (Natural Color Diamond Association) talks up natural and natural-color diamonds; and more. For a full listing of panels and times, visit lasvegas.jckonline.com/events.

B BRIDAL Whether you’re looking to stock up on semi-mounts or track down the trendiest Meghan Markle–inspired three-stone settings, the JCK show has everything you can imagine (and more!) to bejewel future brides and grooms. The Bridal pavilion (Bayside) is flush with the basics—including that all-important wedding-day and weddingparty jewelry—but don’t forget to hit LUXURY for wedding-heavy brands including Sylvie Collection, Coast Diamond, Christopher Designs, and Forevermark, to name just a few. Plus: Platinum Guild International is goin’ to the chapel for the wedding jewelry–themed “Fall in Love With Platinum”—on Friday, June 1 (6–8 p.m., the Chapel at Mandalay Bay).

C CHARITY

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Up and at ’em! On Thursday, May 31, runners, walkers, and cyclists will hit the road at the obscenely early hour of 5:30 a.m. for the Rings of Strength Tour, the sixth annual athletic benefit for Jewelers for Children. To learn more—yes, you can rent a bike—and to sign up, visit ringsofstrength.org.

Then, that evening at 6:30 p.m., put on your best “cocktail-chic” attire for the Diamond Empowerment Fund’s Diamonds Do Good Awards at the Four Seasons Ballroom. This year’s event honors De Beers Group CEO Bruce Cleaver and the government of the Northwest Territories in Canada, home to the Ekati, Diavik, and Gahcho Kué mines. For tickets, go to diamondsdogoodawards. org. (P.S.: To buy the Diamonds Do Good charity bracelet pictured above, visit diamondempowerment.org.)

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DESIGN

Looking for a brand-new line? The Design Center (Bayside)—and its sister spot, Design@LUXURY (Shorelines, level 2)—is your source for handcrafted. showstopping collections from still-under-the-radar brands such as Clementine Fine Jewelry, Just Jules, K.Mita Design, M. Spalten, and the Rock Hound. In other words, pick them up now, before everyone gets in on the secret!

Experiential When it comes to retail, experiential is fast becoming a cliché. But for brick-and-mortar stores, interactive shopping experiences are more important than ever.

That’s why we’ve planned five days—Wednesday– Sunday, May 30–June 3, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.—of “In-Store Experiences” in the Oceanside Ballroom (level 2), full of activities that you can easily stage in your own store.

Among them: DIY flower crowns, cupcake wars (yum!), and a meet-and-play session with puppies from the local SPCA. Who’s a good boy?!?

FASHION-FORWARD

F

One of our favorite things about the AGTA GemFair at JCK Las Vegas: It opens a full day before JCK. That gives you nearly nine hours on the pool level to get your colored-stone fix before you move on to the other two floors (and nearly 2,000 exhibitors) at the JCK and LUXURY shows. Another thing we love about the American Gem Trade Association show at JCK: the nearly 200 exhibitors, which are guaranteed to have just about any gemstone (rough or faceted) you could want, in any size, shape, or setting you could imagine.

If you own a store where fine and fashion jewelry live together in perfect sparkling harmony—or if you want to operate that kind of store—the Bridge (Bayside) is your go-to ’hood. Call them fine-fashion, call them demi-fine: With nearly 150 exhibitors—such as Lucite king Alexis Bittar, gem-heavy Nina Nguyen, boho-style pearl brand Vincent Peach, and colorful, customizable Les Georgettes—to choose from, bridging the fine and fashion genres has never been so easy (or fun!).

H HONG KONG

With some 160 exhibitors—among them: Butani, L’Dezen, Lorenzo, and Peter Lam—Hong Kong (Bayside) is the show’s biggest, and perhaps most varied, international neighborhood.

(Think diamonds, jade, pearls, and more.) And that’s just one ingredient in the melting pot that is JCK Las Vegas. Around the corner from Hong Kong is a Germany pavilion; and across the aisle is Passport, where you’ll find booths from India, Korea, Mexico, Russia, Spain, Sri Lanka, Thailand, and Turkey.

Meanwhile, the VicenzaOro pavilion (Shorelines) boasts an impressive assemblage of 80 made-in-Italy brands.

(P. 150) PROP STYLIST: ELIZABETH PRESS/JUDY CASEY; (THIS PAGE) PUPPY: CYNOCLUB/ISTOCK/GETTY

D

GEMSTONES

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KE YNOTES

i

INNOVATION From the latest laser welders to cutting-edge 3D printers, Essentials & Tech (Bayside) is your one-stop shop for state-of-the-art jewelry tools and technology. Not to mention basics like displays, packaging, lighting—even watch batteries.

And for a sneak peek at what’s new and next in the tech arena, don’t miss the JCK Think Tank competition Sunday, June 3 (1–2 p.m., Showcase Stage), where six vendors will present their coolest product, invention, or program. Audience members will vote to select the winner.

If you’re attending the first day of

LUXURY, Wednesday, May 30, skip the overpriced room-service omelet in favor of the Retailer Keynote

Breakfast (8:30–10 a.m., South Seas Ballroom, level 3) to hear Johnny Earle, pictured, tell the tale of his “t-shirt bakery,” Johnny Cupcakes.

There won’t be cupcakes, but there will be breakfast. Then, on Friday, June 1 (7:30–9:30 a.m., South Seas Ballroom), Gina Drosos, CEO of jewelry powerhouse Signet, will deliver the keynote presentation at the JCK Industry Trends Breakfast.

J

You’ll also hear about the findings in JCK’s State of the Jewelry Industry Report (see sidebar). For more info, and to RSVP for Friday’s breakfast, visit lasvegas.jckonline.com/events.

JIS EXCHANGE

Everyone’s favorite cash-and-carry show, JIS (Jewelers International Showcase) Exchange, is back—this time in a new location: at Mandalay Bay, right in Bayside, running concurrently with JCK, June 1–4. (No more standing outside in 98-degree Vegas heat waiting for a shuttle to the Tropicana! Huzzah!) Restock for summer with nearly 200 brands, including colored-stone specialist Bounkit and Starborn Creations, known for its organic gemstone and silver styles.

SURVEY SAYS! The results of JCK’s first industrywide trends survey are being revealed at JCK Las Vegas Late last year, JCK commissioned GfK MRI, one of the world’s leading research organizations, to conduct a broad survey of the jewelry industry. Fielded in February and March, the questionnaire covered everything from the product trends that respondents—nearly 7 out of 10 of them retailers—felt had staying power to how greatly e-commerce has changed their business to their total net worth.

The results were illuminating— and more than a little surprising. For starters, we learned that 88 percent of jewelry professionals are very or somewhat optimistic about business over the next 12 months, that 57 percent are optimistic regarding consumer confidence and economic growth, and that their optimism is even more pronounced than that of the American public at large.

(Incidentally, we’re so excited by these results that we’re labeling the collective data the “JCK Jewelry Industry Confidence Index”—and we’ll be measuring it annually.)

Among other interesting tidbits we gleaned: Alternative engagement rings ranked No. 1 as the most popular trend of 2018, halo rings and custom designs are neck and neck as the top-selling bridal styles (at 27 percent and 24 percent, respectively), and among the 26 percent of jewelers who sell lab-grown diamonds, 62 percent saw sales increase between 2016 and 2017.

At this month’s JCK Las Vegas, Yancy Weinrich, senior vice president of Reed Jewelry Group, the parent company to both JCK (the show) and JCK (the magazine), will deliver a full recap of the findings, prefaced by a keynote presentation by Signet Jewelers CEO Gina Drosos. The JCK Industry Trends Breakfast on Friday, June 1, runs from 7:30 to 9:30 a.m. in the South Seas Ballroom. If you’re in town, don’t miss out! —Victoria Gomelsky

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L LUXURY Upscale but not inaccessible is the best way to describe LUXURY, the show-within-a-show, which runs Wednesday, May 30 through Monday, June 4 (Shorelines).

As always, the first two days are invite-only, but on Friday, June 1, the 250+ LUXURY exhibitors are open to all JCK Las Vegas attendees. Keep your eyes peeled for elegant diamond designs from Artistry, Norman Silverman, and Rahaminov; alternative engagement rings from Jennifer Dawes; gobstopper gemstones from Erica Courtney, Takat, and Omi Privé; and much, much more.

M

N NEXT YEAR

You might have heard the news: In 2019, JCK Las Vegas is returning to its roots. After eight years at Mandalay Bay, the show is going back to where it all began in 1992: the Sands Expo and Convention Center. Just in time for JCK magazine’s 150th anniversary!

O OPENING AND CLOSING

Here are the days, dates, and times you need to know: The JCK, JIS Exchange, LUXURY, and AGTA shows are open 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.

Friday, June 1, through Sunday, June 3, and 9:30 a.m.–4 p.m.

Monday, June 4. AGTA is also open Thursday, May 31, 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m. LUXURY is also open Wednesday, May 30, and Thursday, May 31, 10 a.m.–6 p.m. (invitation-only!)

P

PRESTIGE

Tucked inside the LUXURY show, just next to Design@ LUXURY, is Prestige, a collection of nearly three

dozen upscale brands infused with a chic, classic spirit.

MAN-MADE DIAMONDS Is there any hotter topic right now? This year, JCK Las Vegas is even debuting a Lab-Grown Diamonds pavilion (Bayside). And to help you navigate the often murky waters of detection, nomenclature, and more, we’re offering not one but two seminars: “Laboratory-Grown Diamonds: the Legal Do’s and Don’ts” (Thursday, May 31, 3–3:45 p.m., Tradewinds C/D, pool level) and “Decoding Your Responsibilities on LaboratoryGrown Diamonds, Disclosure, and Testing” (Friday, June 1, 12:15–1 p.m., Showcase Stage), both featuring Jewelers Vigilance Committee president and CEO Tiffany Stevens.

This is where you’ll find metal mix-master Lika Behar, Lauren K and her juicy tourmalines, and the Mazza Co.’s amazing aquamarines and baroque pearls.

An American Wedding Deserves An American Made Band TM

www.hooverandstrong.com 800-759-9997

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It wouldn’t be Vegas jewelry week without a happy hour (or five). LUXURY hosts show-floor cocktail hours every day 4–5 p.m. (and 3–4 p.m.

Monday, June 4). And Friday through Sunday, June 1–3, mix and mingle—and sip!—with JCK’s jewelry-wearing Bling Brigade at the Showcase Stage from 5 to 6 p.m.

R ROUNDTABLES The always popular Retailer Roundtables return to the JCK Talks slate on May 31 (Tradewinds meeting rooms, pool level). Just a few of the topics they’ll tackle: “The Evolution of Brick & Mortar” (with Harris Botnick of Worthmore Jewelers); “Hiring, Training & Maintaining Staff” (with Trish Roberson of Roberson’s Fine Jewelry and Sarah Ortega of Sarah O. Jewelry and Ooh! Aah! Jewelry); “Disruption in Retail” (with Not on the High Street’s Leanne Osborne and Lauren Kaminsky Goldman of EZ Pawn Corp., pictured); and more.

For a full event listing, visit lasvegas.jckonline.com/events.

S

T

U

Rock and roll at our second annual JCK Rocks the Bowl on Sunday, June 3, 8–12 p.m. at the Brooklyn Bowl. Be sure to bring your badge and pick up your ticket on Friday or Sunday at the info counters on the show floor. Even if you’re not a bowler, there will be music, food, and plenty of laughs. Just watch us bowl a few frames. Guaranteed guffaws!

TRENDSPOTTING If you’re still stuck on what to stock, fret not: Our experts are here to give you the lowdown on looks for 2018 and beyond. On Friday, June 1, JCK senior editor Emili Vesilind will talk trends with Who What Wear’s Lauren Eggertsen and jewelry consultant Shane Clark (3–4 p.m., Design@LUXURY lounge, level 2). On Saturday, June 2, JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky will tell you how to source trends on the show floor (12–12:45 p.m., Showcase Stage). On Sunday, June 3, Vicenza’s famous futurist Paola De Luca looks all the way ahead to 2020 (10:30–11:45 a.m., Showcase Stage). And that evening, Le Vian stages its ever-popular (invitation-only!) Red Carpet Revue/2019 Jewelry & Fashion Trend Forecast, with models bedecked in the brand’s jewels (pictured) and the season’s top hues.

ULTRA VIOLET And speaking of trends…we’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: You cannot go wrong with anything Ultra Violet, Pantone’s 2018 Color of the Year. We were so enchanted by previews of the pretty purple at last year’s Vegas show that we actually put a violet diamond ring on JCK’s July–August 2017 best-in-show cover. And since Pantone made its pick, purple passion hasn’t abated one bit.

V I N T A G E Sate your clients’ appetite for all things antique with the Las Vegas Estate Jewelry & Watch pavilion (Bayside), a show-within-a-show at JCK Las Vegas comprising about two dozen vendors displaying one-of-a-kind and vintage jewels. “If you have the No. 1 jewelry show in the world, which I believe JCK is, it rounds out that offering of the last 1,000 years of jewelry in one place,” says Scott Diament, president and CEO of the Palm Beach Show Group, organizer of the pavilion. For more details, see “Affairs of Estate” on page 171; and for a crash course on how to shop for period pieces, see “Estate Secrets” on page 118.

KAMINSKY GOLDMAN: WENN; LE VIAN MODEL: DAVID CROTTY/PMC

Q

STRIKES AND SPARES

Quench your thirst

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WATCHES The timepiece selection at JCK Las Vegas— from the Clockwork pavilion in Bayside to the Movado Group suite at Swiss Watch— has something for everyone, but fans of minimalist style and women’s watches are in for a special treat. Find sporty models for outdoorsy women at the Abingdon Co., fashion-forward gold wristwatches on colorful snakeskin straps at Versace, and discreet Scandinavian design at Bering.

X

You probably have a few free hours here and there—right? Trust us: It’s important to blow off some steam after walking miles and miles and miles around the show floor.

Singer-dancer-entertainer Ricky Martin, pictured, is finishing up his Vegas residency: His last three shows are May 30, June 2, and June 3 at the Park MGM (parkmgm.com). If eye-popping acrobatics are more your speed, Cirque du Soleil has six shows for you to choose from, including Michael Jackson One at Mandalay Bay and The Beatles Love at the Mirage (cirquedusoleil.com/las-vegas). And if you just feel like dancing it out, use your JCK badge for complimentary entry to Hakkasan at the MGM Grand (Friday, June 1, and Sunday, June 3, 10:30 p.m.–1 a.m.), Omnia at Caesars Palace (Saturday, June 2, 10:30 p.m.–1 a.m.), and Jewel at the MGM Grand (Monday, June 4, 10:30 p.m.–1 a.m.).

Y YELLOW GOLD We’ll let you in on one of the season’s biggest fashion trends: yellow gold.

It’s been getting more popular in engagement rings for a couple of years, but yellow-gold everyday pieces—think stacking bangles, chunky cuffs, and layering chains—are becoming hugely popular with self-purchasing women.

Look to brands such as Gabriel & Co. and Royal Chain (both in the First Look pavilion in Bayside) for solid-gold styles at wallet-friendly price points.

Z ZIRCON

First things first: Don’t confuse this fiery gem with cubic zirconia.

Available in yellow, green, red, reddish brown, and blue hues—as well as a colorless variety known for its brilliance—zircon is beloved by gem connoisseurs for its high refractive index and depth of color. Too often, however, people mistakenly assume it’s an imitation.

The disparity may explain why those in the know feel the market is due for a reckoning. “I personally feel zircon is the most undervalued gemstone in the world,” says Dave Bindra, vice president of operations at B & B Fine Gems in Los Angeles.

Our advice? Peruse the goods at the AGTA pavilion—and get while the gettin’s good. (Additional reporting

by Victoria Gomelsky)

(p. 150) necklace: Le Vian, levian.com; (p. 151) natural-color diamond rings: Scott West for LJ West, ljwestdiamonds.com; pear-shape spinel ring: Coast Diamond, coastdiamond.com; (p. 152) opal and diamond ring: Just Jules, justjules.com; Lucite and crystal pendant: Alexis Bittar, alexisbittar.com; sapphire and diamond earrings: Akiva Gil, akivagil.com; flower bracelet: L’Dezen, ldezen.com; (p. 153) software: 3Design, 3design.us; gemstone pendant: Starborn Creations, starborncreations.com; (p. 154) diamond necklace: Artistry Ltd., artistrylimited.com; man-made diamond three-row halo ring: ALTR Created Diamonds, altr.nyc; pink tourmaline ring: Lauren K, laurenk.com; (p. 156) violet bracelet: Les Georgettes by Altesse, lesgeorgettes.com; enamel and gemstone snake bracelet: Beneficial Estate Buyers, beneficialestatebuyers.com; (p. 158) watch: Movado, movado.com; gold bangle: Royal Chain Group, royalchain.com

MARTIN: MICHAEL TRAN/GETTY; ZIRCON: ROBERT WELDON/GIA

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The JIS October Show is the 2nd largest jewelry show in the Americas - only 2nd to JCK Las Vegas - and the largest, most diverse JIS Show of the year with an array of international and specialty pavilions, Matchmaking programs, and much more.

NEW FOR 2018, JIS October and the Centurion South Beach Show are partnering to conveniently co-locate both events in the Miami Beach Convention Center.

L EAR N MORE AT: JISS H OW.COM/OC TOBER Contact JIS directly at +1 (800) 840-5612 or at jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com

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New Location!

MANDALAY BAY RESORT & CASINO | LAS VEGAS, NV In its third consecutive year, JIS Exchange is the premier destination and #1 source for at-show delivery during Las Vegas Jewelry Week. For 2018, JIS Exchange will take place in Mandalay Bay alongside JCK Las Vegas.

REGISTER TO ATTEND OR APPLY TO EXHIBIT AT:

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Contact JIS directly at +1 (800) 840-5612 or at jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com S TAY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S E X C H A N G E I N PA RTN E R SHI P W I T H:

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THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

THE VAULT SKELETON CREW The hand-wound timepiece, whose openwork dial offers a view of its stepped and skeletonized Charles X–style bridges (a Christophe Claret signature), is available in a limited edition of 28 pieces. It retails for 96,000 Swiss francs (about $98,500).

EVER GREEN Enclosed in a 42 mm black PVD-treated titanium case, the lifelike mini-mamba “creates a powerful contrast between the green brilliancy of its body and the matte black shade of the movement,” Claret says.

The watch comes on—what else?—a green mamba snakeskin strap that the watchmaker says was “very complex” to acquire.

TAKE A MEMO Claret has placed the mechanical reminder function, which he calls MEMO, between the 3 and 4 o’clock indicators. “In the initial position, a tsavorite appears at 6 o’clock on the side face of the MEMO,” Claret explains.

“Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher at 2 o’clock pivots the MEMO function, which will display a diamond on its side face at 6 o’clock, instead of the tsavorite. The MEMO will return to its initial position each night in a 20-minute process driven by a semiinstantaneous jump system.”

MAMBA KING SNAKES ON A gear train! For his newest creation, the Maestro Mamba, Swiss watchmaker Christophe Claret says he “thought it would be interesting to give the illusion that a mamba, one of the most dangerous snakes in the world, is moving inside the watch.” The 3D serpent slithers around the movement, which contains another surprising feature, a function to help wearers remember something important, “whether it’s a cue to pay a daily compliment to a loved one, meditate for 10 minutes, do a good deed, avoid a trap, or”—appropriately enough— “avert a danger.” —VICTORIA GOMELSKY JCKONLINE.COM

THE VAULT

GOLD

QJ QUINTESSENCE JEWELRY CORPORATION

14K Gold Tanzanite & Diamond Collection

STARTING AT $500 Micro dog-tag necklace in 18k yellow gold; $800

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

GAME ON! Before pivoting to jewelry, designer Julie Genet was a dental surgeon, and says her 20-plus years of experience creating dental prostheses—a process similar to wax-casting jewelry—prepared her well for her second career. The French jeweler will make her JCK Las Vegas debut this year, where she’ll showcase a collection dubbed Microvegas that pays homage to Sin City’s gaming industry. The collection comprises 18k gold rings, bracelets, and necklaces that feature tiny, intricately detailed playing cards. “We thought there was no place in the world more appropriate to present this collection than in Las Vegas,” says Caroline Genet, Julie’s sister and business partner. —EMILI VESILIND

Ace of Diamonds bracelet in 18k yellow gold; $600

Ace of Clubs ring in 18k yellow gold; $600; Julie Genet Joaillerie; caro@ juliegenet.com; juliegenet.com

HOT STOCK TIP

TEAM SPIRITUAL ARK designer Ann Korman, a former editor for Vogue and Glamour, started making jewelry while living in India, and her love of Eastern design and metaphysical concepts is evident throughout her mystical-feeling collection. The 18k gold squares that form the Lunar Goddess bracelet are engraved with ancient symbols related to Hindu goddesses and the gifts they bestow—happiness, safety, wealth, and peace of mind, to name a few. —EV JCKONLINE.COM

18k yellow gold bracelet with pavé diamond link (not shown); $22,050; arkfinejewelry.com

Manufacturer & Wholesaler of 925 Sterling Silver & 14K Gold Jewelry with Genuine Gemstones & Diamonds KETTLE CORN JEWELRY! SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE.

JCK LV BOOTH #42166 Quintessence Jewelry Corporation 1 Linden Place, Suite 400, Great Neck, NY 11021 (516) 439-5262 | Fax: (516) 439-5264 Order Toll Free: 1.877.405.5588 Email: sales@quintessencejewelry.com Exclusive B2B Wholesale Online Ordering at: www.QuintessenceJewelry.com

THE VAULT

BRIDAL 18k yellow gold ring with a 0.5 ct. oval rose-cut diamond center and 0.15 ct. t.w. accent diamonds; $3,700; paradedesign.com

HOT STOCK TIP

LA L A VIE EN ROSE RO Fans of vintage engagement rings tend to go gaga over rose-cut diamonds. Tempt your antique-inclined brides with this timeless ring from Parade, which boasts a 0.5 ct. oval rose-cut diamond perched on a gently flared setting (available in platinum and 18k yellow, rose, and white gold). Part of the brand’s Lumiere Bridal collection, this ring has radiance to spare. —EMILI VESILIND

Clover solitaire milgrain ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.71 ct. diamond; $3,190

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

A DELICATE TOUCH Santa Rosa, Calif.–based designer Jennifer Dawes is known for colorful gemstone pieces and engagement rings that team chunky diamonds with rustic-feeling gold designs. Dawes created her latest collection, Dainty Diamonds, “as an answer to my retailers requesting that I create bridal pieces for under $3,500,” she explains. The shrunken engagement styles pack all the charm of Dawes’ larger diamond designs, but are accessibly priced from $2,000 to $3,500. “I love the delicate nature of this collection,” Dawes says. “It’s perfect for stacking and collecting.” —EV Vine solitaire ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.33 ct. diamond; $2,926; Jennifer Dawes Design; 888-802-0880; dawes-design.com

SHOULD ENGAGEMENT RINGS COST UNDER $1,000?

SEE jckonline.com/topics/bridal FOR THAT AND MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

Do business. Build brands. Launch products.

2-4 September 2018 Olympia London IJL delivers year round inspiration, innovation, support, education and new business opportunities. Make contacts with MRÆ« YIRXMEP NI[IPPIV] FY]IVW ERH TVIWW JVSQ EGVSWW XLI [SVPH Only at IJL

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Contact the IJL team +44 (0)208 910 7173 | ijlteam@reedexpo.co.uk www.jewellerylondon.com/exhibit

THE VAULT

SILVER CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

THAI SPIRIT The biannual Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair is renowned for both its colored-stone selection and its silver jewelry design, so we were doubly excited to find Goldlip, a brand that embodies both of these desirable qualities. “I love all gems,” says owner-director Tal Levran, whose jewelry boasts a magnificent mix of rough and polished stones set in all shades of silver, many with elegant gold highlights. (“It adds a beautiful touch and style to the silver,” he says of the warm golden accents.)

“We keep our style very organic, sometimes almost rough, balancing the grace of Mother Nature with very detailed craftsmanship and quality material.” While Goldlip has clients in Europe, Asia, and beyond—including about 20 small U.S. accounts—the Thai company is hoping to boost its presence in the American market. Says Levran: “We find that on every continent there are customers for our organic and nature-loving style.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

HOT STOCK TIP

B Blackened silver necklace with larimar, blue topaz, blue sapphire, and gold plating; $889

Blackened silver ring with baroque pearl, peridot, emeralds, and gold plating; $280

Blackened silver ring with amethyst and multicolored sapphires; $303; Goldlip; tal.goldlip @gmail.com; goldlipjewelry.com

Medi Shoreline cuff in sterling silver and 14k yellow gold with 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,450; k-mita.com

TREASURE ISLAND The sandy beaches and gentle waves of Rebun Island, a small fishing community in northern Japan, inspired this elegant silver cuff from K.Mita Design, the New York City–based brand by designer Keiko Mita, a Rebun Island native. “Waves of oxidized sterling silver gradually retreat from the sandy 14 karat yellow gold shoreline,” she says.

“Diamonds sprinkled on the oxidized sterling silver sea reflect the silvery stars above.” Talk about a shore thing!

—VICTORIA GOMELSKY

PAUL SMITH X PYRRHA! SEE jckonline.com/topics/silver FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

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Friday, June 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Monday, June 4, 2018 Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino, Las Vegas R E G I S T E R T O D AY AT J C K L A S V E G A S . C O M FOLLOW

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THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

SHOW BIZ Vintage spider brooch/pillbox with 6 cts. t.w. diamonds and blue enamel in silver and 14k yellow gold; $15,000; Provident Jewelry; 561-747-4449; providentjewelry.com

PROP STYLIST: ELIZABETH PRESS/JUDY CASEY

AFFAIRS OF ESTATE From June 1 to 4, the Las Vegas Estate Jewelry & Watch pavilion will give JCK showgoers access to a promising retail category

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY PHOTOGRAPH BY LIAM GOODMAN

J

CK LAS VEGAS is, first and foremost, a place to buy new merchandise.

This year, however, the debut of the Las Vegas Estate Jewelry & Watch pavilion, on the Bayside level of the Mandalay Bay Convention Center, gives retailers the chance to sell or trade jewels, too.

“It’s almost like another amenity to JCK,” says Scott Diament, president and CEO of the Palm Beach Show Group, organizer of the new pavilion.

“You could go to an exhibitor in the estate section saying, ‘I have a Kashmir sapphire to sell.’ ” That’s just one perk of the estate section, which houses nearly 30 exhibitors, including Miami-based Vivid Diamonds & Jewelry; Los Angeles’

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Jogani, a specialist in pieces from the 1910s, ’20s, and ’30s; and Provident Jewelry, the West Palm Beach, Fla.– based retail and wholesale business of which Diament is an owner (his retail roots help explain why he remains a passionate advocate for the category).

“We have found at Provident that mixing new and repeatable goods, branded with estate, allows us to ride out any of the downturns in the market or any of the difficulties in the current environment due to stratification,” Diament says. “This allows us to pivot wherever the market is going.”

For more on how to start an estate jewelry business in your store, don’t miss “Estate Secrets” on page 118!

SHOW BIZ

BEST IN SHOW

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Double-shaded pink sapphire parrot bracelet with mobile diamond and ruby baguette feathers and round emerald in 18k gold; $25,000

Opening-and-closing Lotus flower ring with diamonds, pink sapphires, and Mozambique rubies in 18k gold; $9,000; Anil Bharwani Fine Jewellery; info@ bharwanijewellers. com; facebook.com/ anilbharwaniofficial

HELLO BOMBAY! The February edition of the Signature India International Jewellery Show saw an encouraging jump in attendance

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

T

HE WINTER 2018 edition of the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS)—held at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Goregaon, a suburb of Mumbai, in early February—was highly successful. Traditionally a smaller show than its counterpart in July, the Signature show not only grew its space by 200 booths this year, but also saw a spike in attendance, from 11,000 people in 2017 to 14,500 in 2018.

The IIJS is organized by the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), which works closely with the Indian government’s ministry of commerce to represent the domestic jewelry industry’s interests at home and abroad.

This year’s show reflected the Indian industry’s two main goals for 2018. The first is intended to address domestic diamond demand, while the second is aimed at doing more business overseas.

Although the vast majority of Indian women own gold, only 10 percent own a diamond, a figure the country’s Diamond Producers Association (DPA) believes it can grow over the next decade, thanks to a rising middle class in the country, extensive marketing campaigns to reach young people, and education outreach to retailers and consumers.

As such, the DPA invested $7 million to promote diamond jewelry to Indian customers in 2018. Because of this push, there was a sizable showing of diamond stone suppliers and

JUNE 2018

diamond jewelry designers and manufacturers at the show.

Meanwhile, the GJEPC continued its efforts to promote Indian-made jewelry abroad. Pramod Kumar Agarwal, who was appointed GJEPC chairman in January, says he expects exports of Indian jewelry, gemstones, and diamonds to increase 15 to 20 percent this year. In addition, he says he’d like the industry to achieve a “tall” target of $60 billion in exports within the next few years. (According to the GJEPC, India’s gem and jewelry exports totaled $43.2 billion during fiscal 2017, a rise of 10 percent over the prior year.)

“We are looking for new markets that are being left behind— for example, Russian countries and Latin America,” Agarwal says. “There’s a lot of interest in [Indian] manufacturing, quality, and design.”

Agarwal says he will continue to engage the Indian government to ensure “ease of doing business.” To that end, the chairman praised the government and India’s Goods and Services Tax (GST) Council for reducing the GST rate (an indirect tax) on diamond and precious stones from 3 percent to 0.25 percent as an important first step.

Promoting a “Made in India” campaign was also top of mind for GJEPC officials, whose goal is to make Indian artisans and their centuries-old jewelry-making techniques coveted around the world.

JCKONLINE.COM

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Visit DiamondsDoGood.com to read about the good the Diamond Industry is doing around the world Share Your Story!

Contact m.sulla@diamondempowerment.org to learn how you can share your own ‘Do Good’ story

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Visit us at JCK LAS VEGAS BOOTHS B60046 AND B62046

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME ANNOTABLE

DOWNLOAD THIS Five mobile tech hacks perfect for Vegas showgoers

BONNINSTUDIO/STOCKSY

BY EMILI VESILIND

T

ACKLING A MAJOR jewelry trade show with efficiency requires a solid game plan, excellent time management, and—let’s be honest—a pair of hardworking shoes. Technology can also go a long way in streamlining the trade show experience by providing shortcuts for daily tasks, transactions, and on-the-go organization. Simplify your next trade show trip with these five (free!) tech hacks.

Your phone’s camera makes it easy to snap and store photos of jewelry and gems to create a visual journal of the product you’re buying or mulling over. But the danger of snapping product photos all day is, later, not being able to recall the specifics of a jewelry piece or even the name of the designer or collection. The Annotable app accesses your photos and provides pragmatic tools—including arrows, highlighters, and lines—for marking them up with notes. Once you’ve annotated a photo, you tap to save and it’s stored in your phone’s library forever. (moke.com/annotable)

PINTEREST How to organize all those note-filled photos? Download Pinterest’s easyto-use mobile app and load up pix on secret boards (which are visible only to you or contacts you choose).

Take a few minutes to do this every night in your hotel, and you’ll leave a show toting virtual jewelry cases full of future and/or prospective products. (pinterest.com)

WANTEDLY PEOPLE The latest generation of business card scanning apps can scan cards in bulk.

Wantedly People, one of the best on the market, opens instantly in camera mode and is ready to scan up to 10 business cards with one shutter click.

The app recognizes most default

JCKONLINE.COM

fields, including name, email, address, and phone number—and stores that data in an orderly address book that can be imported to other platforms. (people.wantedly.com/en)

VIBER Download this instant messaging platform to your mobile phone to stay connected to your colleagues and industry friends at fairs. Create chat groups by adding individuals by phone number. Once a group is created, you can easily fire off notes (“Let’s meet for lunch in the Oceanside Ballroom at 12!”), contacts, website links, and photos and videos from the show floor. The app also lets you record quick-send video and voice messages to contacts. Messages from others simply pop up on your phone’s screen, so they’re hard to miss—unlike emails. (viber.com)

TRADE SHOW APPS Major jewelry trade shows often create apps packed with event information, vendor descriptions and booth locations, daily schedules, and GPS-enabled maps that get you where you need to go. The best of the lot (including the JCK app) also allow you to create personal itineraries, peruse new product by category, and even message questions. When you can always see where you are, getting lost is a thing of the past. (Find the JCK app in the App Store and Google Play.)

TOOL TIME

THE GOODS

176

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

MISFIT VAPOR Seminal wearable brand Misfit debuted its first full-featured smartwatch, the Misfit Vapor, late last year. The $199 device runs Google’s innovative Android Wear 2.0 software right out of the box, allowing wearers to access the Google Play store and use native apps (including a stand-alone music player) without having their smartphones nearby. The watch boasts a minimalist, gender-free design that comes in several colorways, including jazzy combos such as a rose gold bezel with a navy strap and a copper-toned bezel with a black strap. —EV

The Misfit Vapor boasts a heart rate monitor and is water-resistant up to 50 meters.

What we liked: The Vapor is as feature-filled as the Apple Watch, but costs significantly less. The roomy touch screen alerts users to emails, calls, texts, and app notifications (through vibration or alarm) and facilitates easy access to countless tools and apps, including Google Fit and a heart rate monitor, from day one.

Best feature: The Vapor’s prominent bezel has attracted some side-eye from lovers of bezel-less designs such as the Apple Watch.

But I like it; it reminds me of vintage Swatch designs. Plus, the ring is actually a touch-sensitive tool: You can scroll content by swiping a finger around it. ($199.99; misfit.com)

APP CHAT

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

TRIPIT Flipping through hundreds of emails on

JASON’S WORKS AUTO COIN RING STARTER KIT

your phone to locate flight and travel details can suck up more time than a Netflix binge (and it’s far less fun). Skip the digital scavenger hunt on your next trade show trip and download TripIt, an app that consolidates your travel plans into a single master itinerary you can access at any time and on any device, regardless of the website you used to buy your ticket. It’s easy to use—just forward TripIt all your travel-related emails, such as flight and hotel reservations, and the app will create your itinerary. In transit, you can check departure times and delays, find directions to the airport, and even view weather reports directly on the app. TripIt works with iOS, Android, and Windows, and on Macs and PCs. (Free for basic TripIt, $49/year for ad-free TripIt Pro; tripit.com) —EV

The TripIt app creates detailed master travel itineraries.

JUNE 2018

What we didn’t like: There’s no built-in near-field communication (NFC) reader, so the watch doesn’t support Android Pay, which is a curious oversight. And the watch’s battery life maxes out at less than two days (one, with heavy use).

Jeweler Jason Stinchfield is known for making incredible rings from historical and modern coins that retain their original markings even after being refashioned into smooth and wearable bands. His tool brand, Jason’s Works, creates a kit that gives jewelers everything they need to create coin rings of their own, including an auto housing with a tapered interior that provides a precise center punch, and punches and dies made to work specifically with that housing. All the tools stay neatly organized in a solid red oak rack. ($526.95; riogrande.com) —EV 5 CUTE (AND USEFUL) KIDS’ WEARABLES! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

T R A P P E D B Y INDUS TRY R E GULATIO NS & CO MP LIA NCE ?

WE ’LL HE LP YO U B R E A K T HRO UGH. Non-compliance with regulations can catch a company completely off guard. Being reactive is costly – both ¿QDQFLDOO\ DQG WR \RXU UHSXWDWLRQ -9& PHPEHUVKLS allows you to be proactive. Our staff attorneys are experts in jewelry industry regulations and compliance and are ready to assist you or your internal legal staff at any time.

BECOME A MEMBER OF JVC. To join, call 212.997.2002 or visit jvclegal.org.

JCK SHOW & TELL

a t J C K L a s Ve g a s ’ E v Jewel r y’s m o st i co ni c t ra de event i s ri g ht a ro und t he co rner, so g et yo ur co mfo r t a bl e wa l k i ng sho es, t o - buy l i st s rea dy a nd put o n yo ur n et wo rk i ng fa ce. Thi s yea r, t he show w i l l ro l l o ut a num ber o f exci t i ng new event s, i ncludi ng t he f i rst a nnua l JCK I ndust r y Trends Brea k fa st , a l o ng w i t h po pul a r ret urn event s l i ke JCK Ro cks t he Bow l . Here’s a peek at what yo u can ex pect .

JC K R ock s t h e B ow l Work hard and then play hard. JCK Las Vegas is returning to The Brooklyn Bowl on June 3, 2018, from 8 pm to midnight for an evening of music and networking. Be one of the first 1,000 people in the door and get a free drink ticket. Tickets are required for entry; they’re available for pickup Friday to Sunday at information counters located on the show floor. Act fast because availability is limited and one ticket is allotted per badge—first come, first served. Shuttles will leave from Mandalay Bay for the venue every 10 minutes from 7:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Shuttles returning to Mandalay Bay will depart from The LINQ every 10 minutes from 11:30 pm to 12:30 pm.

J C K Ta l k s JCK Las Vegas offers one of the finest lineups of educational seminars and roundtables you’ll find anywhere. JCK Talks has invited nearly 30 speakers to delve into timely topics ranging from 2018 trends to taxes. Victoria Gomelsky, editor in chief of JCK Magazine, will share inside knowledge of the jewelry trends you need to know before walking the show. There will also be a series of Retailer Roundtables, where you will hear firsthand insights about how expert retailers successfully maneuver the ever evolving world of retail.

For a full list of topics, visit: jcklasvegas.com/Talks

J C K Th i n k Ta nk Six finalists from impressive technology vendors were selected to showcase an innovative product in a live, seven minute presentation to a panel of industry judges amongst a room of peers on Sunday, June 3rd. Watch as the audience votes live to select the 2018 JCK Think Tank winner! The finalists are: Bufkor Inc, Virtual Diamond Boutique, Multidev Technologies Inc, Sarine Technologies Ltd, Lavish Jewelry Cleaner, and Gem+Jewel.

Bling B r i ga de H a p p y H o u r You are cordially invited to JCK’s Bling Brigade Happy Hour on June 3, 2018, on The Showcase Stage, Bayside, Level 1. Sip a glass of wine while models circulate wearing one-of-a-kind pieces from a few of our many talented and unique exhibitors.

Alexis Bittar, Doves Jewelry, Dilamani, and Vimco Diamond Corp. are just a few of the companies that will be represented. The Bling Brigade is a jewelry adorned concierge team that’s led by captain “Bling” whose army of experts are ready to help visitors find exactly what they’re looking for at JCK. On demand assistance from the “Bling Brigade” is also available through the “Ask Bling” chat on the JCK mobile app and show website.

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Cal

One buyer badge grants you access to all shows on JCK days.

T H U R S D AY, M AY 3 1 M O N D AY, J U N E 4

F R I D AY, J U N E 1 M O N D AY, J U N E 4

O P E N S TO J CK R ETA I L E R S N OW AT M A N DA LAY B AY !

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L E A R N M O R E A B O U T J C K L A S V E G A S : J C KO N L I N E . C O M / L A S V E G A S FOLLOW @JCKEVENTS

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

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Meira T 17 E. 48th St., Suite 401 New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-398-0606 Email: info@meiratdesigns.com Website: meiratdesigns.com The beauty of nature and the buzz of New York City come together in the work of Meira T, utilizing 14 and 18k gold, diamonds, and colored gemstones. Meira T’s trademarked off-centered charms and feminine, modern jewels have cultivated a cult-like following among A-list celebrities, models, and others.

Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: info@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Your business depends on having a trusted gemstone source.

And with the largest inventory in the industry, Stuller can meet your needs for quality, consistency, and competitive pricing every time. See our selection at stuller.com/gemstones.

Phillip Gavriel Thorsten Jewelry 404 E. First St., Suite 1204 Long Beach, CA 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings.com Website: thorstenrings.com Back-to-back award-winning ring designs.

Break the norm with lava and lapis inlay designs.

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: phillip@royalchain.com Website: phillipgavriel.com Phillip Gavriel’s new Popcorn collection is a fabulous combination of casual and classic elegance. Perfect for every woman, every day, these pieces are just the right balance of fashion and fine jewelry. MSRP: starting at $199

Midas Chain 50 McDermott Place Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 877-643-2765 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com Allow me to re-introduce myself…. 14k gold herringbone chain by Midas. With yellow gold back in a big way, Midas Chain believes what goes around comes around. High fashion is how we are wearing our voluminous herringbone chains. MSRP: $1,413 (18-inch length)

JUNE 2018

Dabakarov 62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.

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Hoover & Strong 10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com

Alison & Ivy 1552 W. Carroll, Suite 207 Chicago, IL 60607 Tel: 833-325-4766 Email: sales@alisonandivy.com Website: alisonandivy.com

Hoover & Strong has over 650 die-struck bands including hundreds of new classic, fancy, multi-tone, and diamond styles! All bands are Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our products.

Call now for your free display: 833-325-4766.

Alison & Ivy specializes in personalized jewelry for retail jewelers. Free display. No inventory. Quick delivery.

Shy Creation

Le Vian®

631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com

Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com

As seen at the JCK Las Vegas show, the Diamond Shaker earrings from Shy’s Kate collection showcase beautiful tiers of stunning diamonds.

Call today to become a brand partner.

Gabriel & Co.

Discover the trends for 2019 at Le Vian at its new location, the Reef Ballroom. Styles include this elegant ring and pendant centered with swirling multi-color aquaprase accented with natural color Nude Diamonds™ and Chocolate Diamonds®.

Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang Co. Ltd.

545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: mjgonzalez@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com

No. 270 Caoxi Road Shanghai, China 200235 Tel: +0086-21-64833388 Fax: +0086-21-64706366 Email: lfxscb@126.com Website: laofengxiang.com

Gabriel & Co.’s distinctive interpretation of a classic engagement ring, this elegant white gold style features pavé diamonds along the band, within the gallery as well as in the signature halo surrounding the center stone (Style ER12664R4W44JJ).

La Vie en Rose: The “Best Design Award”–winning collection at the 2015 Bazaar Jewelry Award event.

This piece of work is inspired by the dropping rose petals in a wedding ceremony, which symbolize fertility and bliss.

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ESCAPE 6540 Alliance Dr., Suite 120 Rockwall, TX 75032 Tel: 469-646-9990 Email: contact@escapewatches.com Website: escapewatches.com ESCAPE offers a full men’s and ladies’ fashion price point watch collection, with stainless steel base and Japanese quartz movements. Elevated features include intricate layered dials, mixed materials, and genuine leather straps. MSRP: $125–$295

Costar Imports, Inc. Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com This engagement ring (Style R12648) with 0.85 ct. t.w. diamonds catches eyes with its unique octagonal halo and is set up to hold a 6 mm round diamond. The band has 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds. MSRP: Ring $4,200; band $1,650

Artistry, Ltd. Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Stuller carries all of the tools you need—from humble hand tools to the most advanced jewelry design software on the market. Explore the breadth of your options at stuller.com/tools.

JUNE 2018

8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: info@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com London blue topaz necklace and earrings in 14k yellow gold with diamonds. Also available in aquamarine, amethyst, blue topaz, and garnet.

MSRP: Necklace, $476; earrings, $428

Allison-Kaufman Co. 7640 Haskell Ave. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Tel: 800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150 Email: info@allisonkaufman.com Website: allisonkaufman.com Tickle your senses with this dazzling ring from Allison-Kaufman Co.’s new Champagne Bubbles collection, featuring 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds set in 14k rose gold. Complete the ensemble with matching earrings, necklace, and bangle bracelet.

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SHOWCASE Arch Crown Inc. International House of Platinum (Sebastian Bernard) 550 S. Hill St., Suite 903 Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel: 213-623-7900 Fax: 213-623-7993 Email: sales@intlhouseofplatinum.com Website: intlhouseofplatinum.com International House of Platinum is a diamond importer, designer, and manufacturer of medium- to high-end bridals—all manufactured in the United States. Visit us at JCK Las Vegas Booth B59013.

Vivaan 48 W. 48th St., Suite 902 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-302-0402 Fax: 212-302-3140 Email: studio@vivaan.us Website: vivaan.us Vivaan is a lasting legacy of artistic values in fine jewelry. Precious gems studded in 18k gold are energy-cleansed, which has the effect of uplifting the spirit. Rose-cut and antique-cut diamonds gracefully embrace the Vivaan collections.

Alex Velvet Inc. 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd.

Los Angeles, CA 90065 Tel: 323-255-6900 Fax: 323-255-6934 Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Website: alexvelvetusa.com Alex Velvet presents its Breeze collection.

Elegant window displays can be made in different colors.

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460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: orders@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Custom Molded Tags for That Special Presentation! The look, the feel...everything about durable plastic molded relief tags attached to your jewelry says “exceptional quality.”

Avoid unnecessary returns with tamper-resistant, Secure-Lock, “Not Returnable If Removed” tags, ideal for internet sales! Ask about our show specials. Visit JCK Las Vegas Booth B64056

Find out how to get featured in Product Showcase.

Contact your JCK sales representative today.

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Vibhor 590 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-869-5060 Email: peter@vibhorgems.com Website: vibhorgems.com Vibhor is a U.S. manufacturer of quality core diamond essentials. We offer a complete turn-key solution, including 18k (nickel-free) rings and other jewelry, in-store training, custom displays, margins, stock-balance privileges, sales incentives, fast shipping, and a five-year warranty.

Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang Co. Ltd. No. 270 Caoxi Road Shanghai, China 200235 Tel: +0086-21-64833388 Fax: +0086-21-64706366 Email: lfxscb@126.com Website: laofengxiang.com Lao Feng Xiang Royal Golden Tableware: Utilizing our filigree technique, designated a national Intangible Cultural Heritage, this vintage piece of work represents the top achievement of Lao Feng Xiang gold and silver craftwork.

UBM Rotaforte— Istanbul Jewelry Show Earstuds USA 5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 Email: david@earstudsusa.com Website: earstudsusa.com This stunning, stylish rose gold diamond tennis bracelet has 19.1 cts. t.w. G-H color and 51 clarity diamonds.

Molla Fenari Mah. Bab-i Ali Cad. No: 9 K: 3-4, Cagaloglu, Fatih Istanbul, Turkey 34120 Tel: +90-212-519-07-19 Fax: +90-212-513-30-38 Email: info-rotaforte@ubm.com Website: istanbuljewelryshow.com Istanbul Jewelry Show, as the No. 1 B2B jewelry trade fair in the region, offers unique opportunities to jewelry professionals from Europe to Near Asia, North Africa to Commonwealth of Independent States countries, the Middle East to North America.

UNOde50 Andréa Candela Tel: 888-314-5998 Email: info@andreacandela.com Website: andreacandela.com Identifiable by its unique armadillo finish and rope edge design, Andréa Candela uses 18k gold and sterling silver accented with genuine gemstones and diamonds to bring Old World craftsmanship to today’s fashion-forward woman.

JUNE 2018

55 W. 39th St., Ninth Floor New York, NY 10018 Tel: 212-697-0100, ext. 5053 Email: wholesale@unode50.com Website: unode50.com/us/ UNOde50 is known by its design and craftsmanship. Each collection contains two limited edition pieces. For those, we only produce 50 pieces. UNOde50 features a great collection of silver, silver leather, Swarovski, color, and gold.

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Belle Étoile 5901 Christie Ave, Suite 501 Emeryville, CA 94608 Tel: 415-626-9223 Fax: 415-373-9484 Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Discover Belle Étoile, award-winning designer jewelry brand. French for “beautiful star,” Belle Étoile offers exquisite design and exciting programs to help drive traffic and increase sales in your store. Call us today to learn more.

Royal Chain Group 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com

EFFY Jewelry 1-877-ASK-EFFY Website: effyjewelry.com In Bloom: Radiance and movement collide in this sublime floral collection ring by EFFY. Hand-set diamonds, twinkling within a blend of 14k yellow and white gold, make this style a summer showstopper.

Beny Sofer Inc. 555 Fifth Ave., Suite 301 New York, NY 10017 Tel: 800-30-SOFER Fax: 212-944-9726 Email: info@benysofer.com Website: benysofer.com

Royal Chain is known for its fabulous gold. To mark our 40th anniversary, we have released a special collection of new designs. Try these silky Italian-made bangles with diamonds in three colors. MSRP: $1,290

Four unique cuts combine to “wow” your customer. Set in 18k gold, four sweeping bands of rounds accent emerald, Asscher, princess, and round diamonds (2.25 cts. t.w.). MSRP: $9,250. Beny Sofer Inc., supplier of loose diamonds and fine jewelry, has served the trade for more than 30 years.

Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd.

Daniel Dilman

Unit 410-411 Heng Ngai Centre 4 Hok Yuen Street East Hunghom, Kowloon, Hong Kong Phone: 852-2312-2148 Fax: 852-2312-6148 Email: info@mirastyle.com

22 W. 48th St., Suite 204 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-997-2323 Toll-Free: 800-732-7522 Email: info@danieldilman.com Website: danieldilman.com

Classic to luxury, this 18k white gold halo semi-mount ring with 1.34 cts. t.w. round and baguette diamonds is designed to hold a 1 ct. round diamond (Style R94328). 18k gold two-tone triple-row semi-mount features 0.8 ct. t.w. diamonds (Style R94776A)

Our designer has crafted a line of standout pearl jewelry that speaks to the simple yet sophisticated woman. One of our best-selling pieces is our Wrap bracelet shown here, in 18k gold and featuring South Sea pearls. MSRP: $1,300

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Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: info@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Stuller’s fine jewelry styles reflect popular favorites and updated classics, providing options for every customer. Shop our selection today at stuller.com/jewelry.

Christopher Designs 50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@crisscut.com Website: christopherdesigns.com Christopher Designs impeccably blends Old World luxury and style with modern technology to create exclusive designs that include our patented Crisscut® and L’Amour Crisscut diamonds. When placed side by side with our competition, the difference is truly clear.

V.D. Gems Ltd. Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group 24 Jewelers Park Drive Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com

Unit 8, 6/Floor, Fu Hang Industrial Bldg., No. 1 Hok Yuen St. Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong 999077 Tel: 852-27399885 Fax: 852-27398180 Email: info@vdgems.com Website: vdgems.com

Businesses like yours have trusted Jewelers Mutual for support since 1913. Contact us to learn how we can help you become safer, more secure, and more successful.

Manufacturer and wholesaler of single-cut, full-cut, tapper, baguette, rose-cut as well as illusion-cut diamonds in different shapes. Quality control, regular supply, and on-time delivery.

We can supply diamonds directly to your manufacturers in India, China, or Hong Kong.

RDI Diamonds Inc.

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc.

2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com

10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com

Guaranteed to never make a bad inventory buy again!

You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100% Sell-Thru Guarantee. Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.

R&P has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info. JCK Las Vegas Booth B29167

JUNE 2018

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Dabakarov 62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.

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Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com We design and manufacture the majority of our findings using our own in-house design team and our own 100 percent SCS-Certified recycled metals. See the latest selection of findings at stuller.com/findings.

Martin Flyer E.L. Designs 52 W. Main St. Cambridge, NY 12816 Tel: 518-677-8595 Fax: 518-677-8597 Email: info@eldesigns.com Website: eldesigns.com Our Tango bracelet features a beautiful 6 mm blue topaz and a 3 mm diamond held closely together like entwined tango dancers. Hand forged in the USA in sterling silver and 14k gold.

70 W. 36th St. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 800-223-0330 Fax: 212-768-0124 Email: sales@martinflyer.com Website: martinflyer.com “The Quality You Expect, The Personal Service You Deserve.” Martin Flyer has been designing bridal jewelry since 1945, and today we are considered experts within our industry. We understand all the major concepts to help our partners be successful in their bridal department with our bridal programs.

Royal Chain Group 23024 Conde Drive Valencia, CA 91354 Website: www.jwl.com

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com

JWL is the world’s cryptocurrency designed for, and by, leaders in the global jewelry industry. Learn more at startengine.com/jwlcoin

Royal Chain is known for its fabulous gold. To mark our 40th anniversary, we have released a special collection of new designs. Try this Omega Spiral Italian-made bracelet with diamonds. MSRP: $2,100

JWL.com Inc.

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JUNE 2018

PROTECT YOUR STORE FROM CRIME JOIN THE JEWELERS SECURITY ALLIANCE

“Smash and grab robberies…A troubling trend that began in the Midwest has now spread to other areas of the country.”

Rob Bates, “Smash-and-Grab Robberies Erupt in the Industry”, JCKonline.com, February 26, 2018

Visit JSA at www.jewelerssecurity.org or contact JSA via jsa2@jewelerssecurity.org or 212-687-0328.

BENEFITS OF JOINING THE JSA:

Weekly Email Crime Alerts on criminals and scams

A free copy of the JSA’s Manual of Jewelry Security

Unlimited expert telephone advice on security issues

Rewards offered if your firm suffers a criminal loss

To learn more about how to protect your store and the Jewelers Security Alliance, visit the JSA/JCK Security Pavilion at JCK Las Vegas and Booth B20130.

Talk to security exhibitors who can provide the latest solutions to protect your jewelry business from burglary, robbery and theft.

JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 Mandalay Bay Convention Center Las Vegas – June 1-4, 2018 www.jckonline.com/lasvegas

Support of JSA’s work with the FBI and local police

CLASSIFIEDS

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SERVICES TO TRADE

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JCKONLINE.COM

ADVERTISING

INDEX AGTA pg. 14-15 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alex Velvet pg. 49 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900

E.L. Designs pg. 89 Website: edlevinjewelry.com Email: info@edlevinjewelry.com Phone: 518-677-8595 Toll-Free: 800-828-1122 Fax: 518-677-8597 Toll-Free Fax: 888-677-8597

Allison Kaufman Company pg. 106 Website: allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908

Effy pg. Gatefold Cover Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY

Andréa Candela pg. 159 Website: andreacandela.com Email: info@andreacandela.com

Gabriel & Co. pg. 31 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400

Artco Group pg. 162 Website: artcogroup.com Toll-Free: 877-222-7820

Gdansk International Fair Co. pg. 53 Website: amberif.pl Email: amberif@mtgsa.com.pl Phone: +48 58 554 91 34

Artistry Ltd. pg. 38 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 A.R.Z. Steel pg. 84 Website: arzsteel.com Email: info@arzsteel.com Phone: 514-489-8668 Fax: 514-489-6929 Belle Étoile pg. 25 Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Toll-Free: 877-838-6728 Charles & Colvard pg. 91 Website: charlesandcolvard.com Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Toll-Free: 800-210-4367 Christopher Designs pg. 85 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970 Costar Imports pg. 43 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR

The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council pg. 12-13 Website: gjepc.org Email: ho@gjepcindia.com Toll-Free: 022-2654 4600 Fax: 022-2652 4764 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 Hoover & Strong pg. 155 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997 International House of Platinum pg. 95 Website: intlhouseofplatinum.com Email: sales@intlhouseofplatinum.com Phone: 213-623-7900 International Jewellery London pg. 167 Website: jewellerylondon.com

Dabakarov pg. 4-5 Website: dabakarov.com Email: info@dabakarov.com Phone: 212-730-1888

Istanbul Jewelry Show pg. 164 Website: istanbuljewelryshow.com Email: info-rotaforte@ubm.com Phone: +90 212 519 07 19

Diamond Empowerment Fund pg. 173 Website: diamondsdogoodawards.org

JCK Events pg. 169 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626

Downeast Trading pg. 183 Website: downeasttrading.com Email: downeast@sover.net Toll-Free: 800-626-5700

Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 6-7 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411

Earstuds USA pg. 157 Website: earstudsusa.com Email: sales@earstudsusa.com Toll-Free: 866-327-7883

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Jewelers’ Security Alliance pg. 188-189 Website: jewelerssecurity.org Email: jsa2@jewelerssecurity.org Toll-Free: 800-537-0067 Fax: 212-808-9168

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JIS Show pg. 160, 161 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612

Phillip Gavriel pg. 10-11 Website: phillipgavriel.com Email: info@phillipgavriel.com Phone: 212-382-3340

Soofha (by Pianogold) pg. 101 Website: pianogold.com Email: info@soofha.com

Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 166 Website: gemlogis.com Email: enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333

Quintessence Jewelry Corporation pg. 165 Website: quintessencejewelry.com Email: pradeep@quintessencejewelry.com Phone: 516-439-5260 Toll-Free: 877-405-5588 Fax: 516-439-5264

Sterling Reputation pg. 56 Website: sterlingreputation.com Email: info@sterlingreputation.com Phone: 954-578-1880

JWL pg. 37 Website: JWL.com Email: info@jwl.com Phone: 866-545-9871 Kim International pg. 35 Website: kimint.com Email: sales@kimint.com Toll-Free: 800-275-5555 Kimberly Collins Colored Gems pg. 36 Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com Email: kim@kimberlycollinsgems.com Phone: 512-661-8778 Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1, Back Cover Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Martin Flyer pg. 23 Website: martinflyer.com Email: info@martinflyer.com Phone: 212-840-8899 MDJ Advantage pg. 48 Website: mdjadvantage.com Email: Dm@mdjadvantage.com Toll-Free: 888-500-4311 Toll-Free Fax: 877-487-2104 Meira T. Designs pg. 97 Website: meiratdesigns.com Email: info@meiratdesigns.com Phone: 212-398-0606 Toll-Free: 800-223-6021 Fax: 212-398-0726 Midas pg. 8-9 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765 Mira Style Jewellery Company Limited pg. 87 Website: estore.mirastyle.com Email: info@mirastyle.com Phone: 213-622-5233 Fax: 213-622-5549 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 92 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. pg. 16-17 Website: peterlam.com.hk Email: kenter@peterlam.com.hk Phone: +852 23555897 Fax: +852 27641328

Rand & Paseka pg. 40 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 83 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rio Tinto Diamonds pg. 46 Website: australiandiamondstory.com Email: rtd.usa@riotinto.com Phone: +3233036800 Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3, 10-11 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Samuel B. pg. 42 Website: samuelb.com Email: info@SamuelB.com Phone: 516-466-1826 Toll-Free: 855-SAMUELB Schofer pg. 50 Website: schofer.com Email: info@schofer.com Phone: +49 (0) 7231-91030 Sethi Couture pg. 51 Website: sethicouture.com Phone: 415-863-1475 Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang pg. 18-19 Website: laofengxiang.com Shy Creation Inc. pg. 33 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 Sofer Jewelry pg. 103 Website: benysofer.com Email: info@benysofer.com Phone: 212-575-0213 Toll-Free: 800-307-6337 Fax: 212-944-9726

Stuller Inc. pg. 27, 57-80, 174 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Thorsten Jewelry pg. 55 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com Thuja Jewels pg. 99 Website: thujajewels.com Email: info@thujajewels.com Umicore pg. 168 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 UNO de 50 pg. 105 Website: unode50.com/us Email: ssanchez@unode50us.com Phone: 212-697-0100 ext. 5029 V.D. Gems Ltd. pg. 52 Website: vdgems.com Email: info@vdgems.com Phone: +852-2739-9885 Vibhor pg. 41 Website: vibhorgems.com Phone: 617-308-1580 VicenzaOro pg. 170 Website: las-vegas.vicenzaoro.com Vivaan pg. 45 Website: vivaan.us Email: studio@vivaan.us Phone: 212-302-0402 Fax: 212-302-3140 Wilkerson pg. 39 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333

Copyright ©2018 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 149 No. 4 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.

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JUNE 2018

192

THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

WHAT A PEAR! Shirley Temple Black sparkles in white pear-shape diamonds that boast a very dark history

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IN 1951, MRS. Charles A. Black, better known as Shirley Temple, was photographed wearing two identical pear-shape diamonds in a Harry Winston necklace as part of an exhibition to benefit the Washington Home for Incurables. Temple may have been all smiles, but those Indore Pears, like many famous diamonds, are shrouded in mystery and misfortune. They were originally the property of the Maharaja of Indore, Tukoji Rao Holkar, a colorful man of excess who was thought to have been behind the Malabar Hill murder in Bombay, India, in which he allegedly killed his concubine’s lover.

Never admitting to the crime, the maharaja was forced to abdicate the throne in favor of his son and flee the country. While traveling in Europe, he met Nancy Ann Miller, a rich American who embraced Hinduism and became the Maharani Sharmistha Devi Holkar. He gave her the pear-shape diamonds as a wedding gift; she wore them as earrings and on a necklace on many occasions. Alas, the marriage didn’t last. In 1946 Harry Winston bought the diamonds, weighing 46.95 and 46.7 cts. He had them recut to 46.39 and 44.14 cts. and fitted into the necklace Temple modeled. Geneva jeweler Robert Mouawad has owned the pears since 1987. —KRISTIN YOUNG

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