JCK 2021 Summer Issue

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SUMMER 2021

JCKONLINE.COM

POWER STRIP

S TREET EAT S , Z ODI AC DR INKS & IM M ERS IVE ART: WH AT ’S NEW IN V EG AS

JEAN THERAPY

D US T OFF T HE DIAMO NDS! D RE S S ING DOW N H AS N EVER BEEN S O CO OL.

ON WITH THE SHOW JCK MAKES ITS LONG-AWAITED RETURN TO THE VENETIAN

THE BEST SOURCE FOR GOLD SINCE 1978

SEE US AT JCK LAS VEGAS BOOTH 14115 ROYALCHAIN.COM

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800-622-0960

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SUMMER 2021

JCKONLINE.COM

LUSTER LIFE P E A R L S A R E A LWAY S A P P R O P R I AT E — NOW MORE THAN EVER

a Renaissance in Jewelry DISCOVER PHILLIP GAVRIEL’S COLLECTION OF AFFORDABLE LUXURY

Real gold Sterling silver Gemstones MADE WITH

AND

SEE US AT JCK LAS VEGAS BOOTH 14115 PHILLIPG AVRIEL .COM

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Visit us at JCK Las Vegas #12079

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Forever One moissanite outshines all the rest.

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For a complete list of authorized distributors, please visit: www.charlesandcolvard.com/trade-partners/authorized-distributors

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As a leading prime manufacturer CIRARI builds the goods BEFORE you order them. We know what you want because we listened to you. In these uncertain times that’s important. Diamond goods $200 - $200,000 and our color merchandise $100 - $100,000 we can deliver where so many other vendors just promise. Why? We have the merchandise in stock NOW.

14kt Ethiopian opal & diamond highlighted by square cut emeralds.

Available in WG too.

2 Beautiful 14kt WG, ring guards, 1 featuring 7 pear shapes with a total weight of .24ct the other with 5 pear shapes and rounds totaling .48ct

14kt YG & WG inside out hoops from 1 ct to 6 ct, also available in RG

14kt yellow gold Emerald & Diamond series. Also available in white gold with Sapphire and Ruby

ONLY

Please visit us at: Luxury By JCK

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98 CutterMill Road, Suite #125 • Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: (516) 482-8030 • Fax: (516) 482-0259 • 1-800-HESKIA-1 WWW.ALMORDESIGN.COM

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CONTENTS

110 130

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

QUEEN OF DENIM & DIAMONDS You don’t need a black-tie affair to justify breaking out your most spectacular jewelry. The best part about diamonds? They go with absolutely everything.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON KIM

FEATURES 98

2021 JCK JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS: THE WINNERS Here’s the jewelry retailers rewarded. Plus: the picks from JCK ’s editors and influencers Hannah Becker, Severine Ferrari, Benjamin G. Guttery, Danielle Miele, Katerina Perez, Erica Silverglide, and Becky Stone.

118

DRESS YOU UP I can’t wait to burn my sweats.

Raise your hand if the thought has crossed your mind. If it has, you’re in luck because this fall, designers are, more or less, on the same wavelength.

124

BY VENESSA LAU

124

PEARL ESSENCE If you’ve seen a rise in requests for the glistening gem, you’re not alone (thanks, Madam VP!).

Everyone is going pearl crazy.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS

SUMMER 2021

134

MODEL: JASON KIM; PEARL JEWELRY: JOEL STANS; AMETHYST, PINK TOURMALINE, AND DIAMOND RING IN 14K ROSE GOLD, $1,957, EFFY, 877-275-3339, EFFYJEWELRY.COM

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S H Y C R E AT I O N .C O M

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I N F O @ S H Y C R E AT I O N .C O M

J A

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L U X U R Y

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J C K

CONTENTS

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JCKONLINE.COM

140 FEATURES 130

WAKING UP IN VEGAS If you’re looking for us (when we’re not looking at jewelry, of course), we’ll be at one of these new hot spots.

118

BY MATT VILLANO

134

WHAT TIME IS IT? SHOW TIME! From Aug. 24 to 30, The Venetian Resort & Sands Expo will play host to Luxury and JCK. Don’t forget to pack your sequins!

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

140

What will high-end retailers be looking for at the Las Vegas jewelry shows after all this time away from the action? These are the categories, colors, and stones on their luxury lists.

BY AMY ELLIOTT

149 SUMMER 2021

98

SPECIAL REPORT: LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS 149

Demand is up, up, up, yet ­prices keep going down, down, down— we examine the cost quandary.

Plus: new lab-created engagement and fashion rings, hoop earrings, and statement jewels.

MODEL: IMAXTREE.COM; CRANNY EARRINGS IN BRASS, $80, KALLIOPE, INFO@KALLIOPEJEWELRY.COM, KALLIOPEJEWELRY.COM

SHOPPING SMART

CONTENTS

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JCKONLINE.COM

78 DEPARTMENTS 28 COVER LOOK 30 JEWEL BOX 34 36 42 47

10 things rocking the industry

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS JCK PRO NEWS GEMS

What to know about the U.S. government sanctions on the Burmese gem business

30

55 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER

Milestones by Ashleigh Bergman in Los Angeles 65 RETAIL THERAPY

What pandemic-era changes to your business will you end up keeping?

68 STORE WE ADORE

Alx&Co. in Alexandria, Va.

71 THE LOOK 72 RED CARPET 78 DESIGNER SHOWCASE Parlé Jewelry Designs 96 JCK ASKS...

Puja Bordia of Trésor Collection

71 163 THE VAULT 164 COLORED STONES 166 BRIDAL 169 TOOL TIME

Why membership in the audio app Clubhouse has its privileges. Plus: the Fitbit Luxe.

182 THE WAY WE WORE

SUMMER 2021

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Cartier muse Maria Félix is purr-fect in the brand’s signature Panthère pieces.

COUPLE: ERIN TETTERTON; WOMAN: DUANE MICHAELS/TIFFANY & CO.

Cover Look

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JCKONLINE.COM

Necklace with 6.85 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $22,990; ashidiamonds.com

Gloria 18k yellow gold ring with 2 ct. diamond and enamel; price on request; alisonlou.com Charlotte platinum and 18k Honey Gold earrings with 12.26 cts. t.w. diamonds; $251,400; levian.com

ON WITH THE SHOW

Knot Argyle platinum and 18k rose gold earrings with 1.34 cts. t.w. diamonds; $16,000; ljwestdiamonds.com

Dust off those diamonds!

JCK and Luxury are coming back to The Venetian.

18k yellow gold bracelet with white freshwater pearls and 0.67 ct. t.w. diamonds; $4,365; mastoloni.com

Necklace with 345.75 cts. t.w. gold pearls and 11 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $32,950; ashidiamonds.com

18k yellow gold ring with 4.01 ct. diamond; $115,000; rahaminov.com

14k yellow gold bangle with 1.27 cts. t.w. diamonds; price on request; dilamani.com

Bangle with 4.3 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold; $25,000; nouvelheritage.com Avaanti bypass rings in 18k yellow and rose gold with 0.27 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,575 each; forevermark.com

Knot Argyle platinum and 18k rose gold bracelet with 3.84 cts. t.w. diamonds; $76,000; ljwestdiamonds.com

LUSTER LIFE Pearls are always appropriate—now more than ever

(TOP) COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON KIM Hair: SUHAILAH WALI USING CTRL EDGE TAMER BY STEPHEN HUDSON Makeup: DEANNA HAGAN USING CHANEL BEAUTY/STATEMENT ARTISTS Stylist: DANIEL EDLEY/WALTER SCHUPFER; Model: MARIA BORGES/IMG; Dress: ALEXANDER McQUEEN (RIGHT) PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS Prop Stylist: JOCELYN CABRAL SUMMER 2021

JCKONLINE.COM

Cultured.

Yet Complicated.

Cultured pearls are easy to love but hard to describe. That’s where we come in. Know the quality of your pearls with the new, in-depth Cultured Pearl Classification Report, which grades pearls along the GIA 7 Pearl Value FactorsTM (Size, Shape, Color, Luster, Surface, Nacre and Matching). Report is available for loose, mounted, or strung pearls.

Learn More at GIA.edu/gem-lab-service/pearl ©GIA 2021. GIA® are registered trademarks of Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

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SUMMER 2021

the industry authority

10 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box Earrings with 19.35 cts. t.w. aquamarines and 10.95 cts. t.w. tourmaline in platinum; $18,900; Cicada Jewelry; info@ cicadajewelry.com; cicadajewelry.com

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1

SHOWS

If you didn’t get the memo, Las Vegas Jewelry Week is now taking place in late August. The Nevada desert will be extra-hot then, but we’re not complaining.

The fact that JCK, Luxury, and Couture are all scheduled—in person!—the same week (starting Aug. 24) is a hopeful sign that the pandemic is receding in America, and jewelry retailers are raring to restock. “It feels great to be planning for the live event,” says Sarin Bachmann, group vice president of the RX USA Jewelry Group, organizers of JCK and Luxury. “There’s light at the end of the tunnel.”

JCKONLINE.COM

Elsa Peretti, one of the most influential jewelry designers of the past century, died March 18 at age 80, leaving behind a legacy of maverick design through the hundreds of pieces she created for Tiffany & Co. Few designers enjoyed her longevity or success (her latest contract with Tiffany’s, in effect through 2032, is worth $47 million). More impressive is her work’s indelibility. “Style is to be simple” was her motto.

But her sculptural jewels, inspired primarily by organic forms, were also simmering with bravado and sensuality. Which made “simple” feel extraordinarily special.

PERETTI: DUANE MICHAELS/TIFFANY & CO.

LEGACIES

31 The Charles Tiffany setting engagement rings in platinum and black and gray titanium are named for the retailer’s founder.

3

Avaanti pavé hoops in 18k yellow gold with 0.74 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,395; De Beers Forevermark; 203-388-3527; forevermark.com

MEN’S

There have been many attempts to introduce “man-gagement rings,” but few have done it with as much fanfare as Tiffany & Co. (though, to be clear, the retailer hasn’t used that term). While it’s too soon to tell how many men will want their own blue-boxed ring, The Washington Post reported that “some guys are into” the concept. “I [want] to feel the excitement of getting engaged,” one man told the paper. Others were more cynical: “This is a huge moment for equality,” said Trevor Noah on The Daily Show.

“Now men finally have something to bring to the pawnshop.”

KALUUYA: MATT PETIT/A.M.P.A.S.; ENGAGEMENT RINGS: TIFFANY & CO.

4

AWARDS No sooner did E! talking head Giuliana Rancic declare her retirement than some self-proclaimed digital pop-culture prophet pronounced the red carpet dead. True, awards season fashion was a bit… untraditional. (Never forget Jason Sudeikis’ tie-dyed Golden Globes hoodie.) But just look at April’s Oscars, where the men dressed— and accessorized—to the nines.

Exhibit A: Judas and the Black Messiah supporting-actor winner Daniel Kaluuya (pictured) in Coup d’Éclat de Cartier and Love rings, a Santos de Cartier skeleton watch, and, best of all, a Cartier diamond tennis necklace. Clearly, reports of the red carpet’s death have been greatly exaggerated.

5

NAMES For over a decade, De Beers Group has called its diamond jewelry brand Forevermark. Now it has rechristened the brand De Beers Forevermark, part of a concerted effort to promote the name De Beers. The brand will also be more fully integrated with De Beers Jewellers, its retail chain. Yet with only three stores in the United States, one wonders how much appeal the De Beers name actually has. Forevermark USA president Charles Stanley admits it’s mostly known by older buyers, but says, “We think there’s an opportunity to bring the De Beers name and its fame to a new generation of consumers.”

SUMMER 2021

10 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box

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This Cartier gold crocodile necklace, with 60.02 cts. t.w. fancy intense yellow diamonds and 66.86 cts. t.w. emeralds, will be on display in the AMNH’s special exhibition Beautiful Creatures.

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MUSEUMS

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DIAMONDS After 38 sales featuring some of the world’s rarest—and priciest—diamonds, Rio Tinto is holding its last Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender, some six months after the Argyle mine stopped production in November 2020. The final edition includes a generous assortment of the eye-popping colored diamonds that have made the event famous, including the 3.47 ct. Argyle Eclipse—the largest fancy intense pink diamond ever offered at a tender. As the event marks the end of a very colorful era, some dealers found its passing bittersweet. Says dealer Alan Bronstein, a regular attendee, “Being in the presence of so many beautiful stones is one of the honors of being in the diamond business.”

SUMMER 2021

JCKONLINE.COM

CROCODILE NECKLACE: NILS HERRMANN/CARTIER COLLECTION © CARTIER

Though they housed some glitzy items, the American Museum of Natural History’s halls of gems and minerals were famed for their dowdiness.

They opened in 1976, and, as even curator George Harlow admitted, weren’t updated much in the four decades that followed.

While the halls’ throwback 1970s vibe gained a cult following among New Yorkers—The Village Voice dubbed them the ­“weirdos’ lounge”—others considered them as outdated as the museum’s dinosaur fossils. In 2017, both halls closed for renovations. After a few COVID-19– related delays, the refurbished 11,000-square-foot space— now known as the Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals—finally reopened in June. Harlow says visitors will be thrilled not just with the new look but also the long list of new attractions, including a 14-foot-high fluorescent rock and a 180-pound ­tourmaline. “People’s jaws are going to drop,” he promises.

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Every death is sad, but particularly painful when that person is as talented, well-liked, and young as Alex Woo, who died of cancer March 30 at age 47. The daughter of a jeweler, Woo crafted her first piece at age 8 and started her own business in her 20s.

She quickly became known for her Little Numbers and Little Animals charms, which made regular appearances on trendsetting TV shows such as Gossip Girl and The Carrie Diaries. Said friend Jennifer Gandia, co-owner of Greenwich St. Jewelers in New York City, “In an industry where so much is derivative…Alex Woo jewels were the holy grail of design—they were original.”

IN MEMORIAM

8

WOO: EMMA HOPSON FOR JCK

WATCHES The watch auction business has never been better. Just look to Phillips’ recent Geneva sale, which totaled $42,290,938, the highest-ever result for a nonthematic or charity watch auction. Even more dramatic: About one-sixth of that amount was generated by a single, spectacular lot: Patek Philippe reference 2523 (pictured), an elusive 1953 model with a cloisonné enamel Eurasia dial that sold for $7.8 million. “Simply put, [it’s] one of the most sought-after, ­unobtainable, attractive, and fabled timepieces in the world,” says Aurel Bacs, cofounder and senior consultant at Phillips’ watch partner, Bacs & Russo. Scarcity, it appears, is a good problem to have when it comes to secondhand watches.

JCKONLINE.COM

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Pandora is debuting a lab-grown diamond line but in only one market: the United Kingdom.

10

LABGROWN

The consumer press considered it momentous. ­ “Pandora, the world’s largest jewelry maker, will no longer use mined diamonds,” read one headline, among dozens the brand scored after its May 5 announcement.

But the news wasn’t so earthshaking: Of the 85 million pieces of jewelry Pandora sold in 2020, only 55,000— less than 1%—contained natural diamonds. Some diamond groups, meanwhile, were less than charmed

by Pandora statements implying that mined gems were less ethical than those made by machines.

SUMMER 2021

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T

from the editor Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 in stainless steel with olive-green palmmotif dial; $7,050; Rolex; 800-36ROLEX; rolex.com

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com SUMMER 2021

BY NOW, WE’VE all heard those wistful r­ eferences to the “Before Time,” or alternatively the “Before Times”—a way of gently poking fun at the idea that we now live in a ­postapocalyptic novel (prove me otherwise!).

I’ve used the phrase myself. I like the shared history it implies, and the nostalgia it elicits, even as I acknowledge that the more interesting idea is what happens next, ­post-catastrophe: the After Time.

The magazine in your hands—our only print issue of 2021—is our first attempt to tackle that question.

We know so much more now than we did when our last print issue came out, in ­October. First and foremost, the vaccines developed to inoculate us against the coronavirus are extremely effective—so much so that thousands of jewelers are planning to travel to Las Vegas next month to attend the betterlate-than-never JCK show, which opens at The Venetian Resort & Sands Expo Aug. 27, right on the heels of Luxury.

Should you be among them, you won’t want to miss “What Time Is It? Show Time!” (page 134), our take on what’s new and noteworthy at America’s largest jewelry trade fair. On page 130, find the must-read companion feature, “Waking Up In Vegas,” by contributor Matt Villano, a travel writer who’s ­compiled a list of all the new resorts, eateries,

and attractions greeting JCKers this summer.

Another thing we know now, thanks to our longtime fashion correspondent, Venessa Lau: “Introvert hibernation is over and head-turning opulence is in,” she writes in “Dress You Up” (page 118), our annual guide to fall fashion.

(Hint: “Remember heels? Zippers? Buttons?

How about glorious fringe and extravagant jewels, lavish earrings, and piled-on rings?

Jewelry lovers, get ready and get excited.”)

We could say the same thing about the 2021 Jewelers’ Choice Award winners, whose prized pieces you’ll find starting on page 98. (Congratulations to Lika Behar for her eminently wearable, grand-prize–winning silver and diamond Wiredance bracelet!)

Last but not least, please take a moment to savor this issue’s two photo features: “Queen of Denim & Diamonds” on page 110, starring Maria Borges draped in hundreds of carats of diamonds, and “Pearl Essence” (page 124), a tribute to jewelry’s 2021 MVP. Our editorial team—including creative director Peter Yates, photography director Freyda Tavin, jewelry editor Rima Suqi, managing editor Melissa Bernardo, and editorial assistant Katey Clifford—navigated some significant logistical challenges to pull off both shoots.

Now, excuse me as I swap my Zoom-friendly leggings and flip-flops for Sin City–style dresses and sandals. Time to party!

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

he After Time.

CONTACT OUR SALES TEAM OR CUSTOMER SERVICE | 212.519.1400 GABRIELNY.COM

SUMMER 2021

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the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 2

1

What JCK ’s Victoria Gomelsky is loving this month

3

Mint Mojito diamond ring in 18k yellow gold with emerald-cut mint-green amethyst in white agate; $2,440; Doves by Doron Paloma; 888-663-6837; dovesjewelry.com

Silver and enamel paper clip bracelet; $120; Royal Chain; 800-622-0960; royalchain.com

Customized enamel and gold letter charm; $3,200; Jenna Blake; info@jennablake. com; jennablake.com

True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier in 39 mm grayed English green high-tech ceramic case; $2,100; Rado; 800-283-7236; rado.com

5

“When I want to feel energized, I love the idea of adorning myself in one of these minty designs, guaranteed to invigorate my look (and your cases).” —Victoria Gomelsky, JCK editor-in-chief JCKONLINE.COM

PORTRAIT: NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS

4 Fish For Love earrings in 18k pink gold with mint-green enamel and 0.96 ct. t.w. diamonds; $8,900; Selim Mouzannar; 96-11-331-299; selimmouzannar.com

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 152 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

EDITORIAL

U.S. ADVERTISING SALES

News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com

JCK Advertising Sales Director RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 rgewertz@reedexpo.com

Senior Editor & Social Media Director EMILI VESILIND / evesilind@gmail.com

Regional Manager LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedexpo.com

Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY

GENERAL ADVERTISING INQUIRIES

Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI Contributing Editors AMY ELLIOTT / aelliott718@gmail.com BRITTANY SIMINITZ / bsiminitz@jckonline.com

advertise@jckonline.com

Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON

magazine@jckonline.com

Editorial Contributors KAREN DYBIS, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHI-HART, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG

PUBWORX

C I R C U L AT I O N

Operations Director MICHAEL CANDEMERES Operations Account Manager ADAM BASSANO Premedia Specialist JOB HERNANDEZ

Photography Contributors JOEL STANS, DIEGO UCHITEL, PATRICIA HEAL, JASON KIM, MIKAEL SCHULZ, KENJI TOMA, STEPHEN LEWIS, BALL & ALBANESE, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN, KEN GUTMAKER, NICOLE LaMOTTE, MARK LUND, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, GAVIN O’NEILL, CODY PICKENS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK

Digital Imaging Specialist THOMAS OLESEN

PUBLISHED FOR REED EXHIBITIONS BY

VP, Content LIZ BUFFA

VP, Business Development MATT CHERVIN

Marketing Manager / NATALIE CHOMET Account Director / HEATHER BOHL Art Director / ANDY ROSS Production Manager / NESTOR CERVANTES Production Artist / ANGEL MASS Client Services Specialist / KATIE KENNEDY Editorial Assistant / KATEY CLIFFORD One World Trade Center, Floor 31, New York, NY 10007 For content marketing inquiries, please call 212-286-7330 headline-studio.com headline studio is a division of advance local

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

3D CAD Software, Printing and Casting Demonstrations Chief Growth Officer / RX USA YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 / yweinrich@reedexpo.com Group Vice President / RX USA Jewelry Group SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 / sbachmann@reedexpo.com

ZBrushLIVE Expo Featuring Guest Jeweler Tomas Wittelsbach Join guest jewelers and tech experts for a deep dive into CAD software and exploration of 3D jewelry-making techniques. Watch a series of live demonstrations and instructional videos, learn trade secrets and walk away excited to get back to your bench!

Featured Videos Include: • • • • •

3D Manufacturing from Design to Cast Designing Jewelry Parametrically in 3Design Enamel Alternatives with Invicon What You Really Need for Engraving Mass Finishing for Every Jewelry Business

I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G

JCK SHOW & LUXURY

BRAZIL/EUROPE/ MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI 48-22-401-70-01 fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com

Portfolio Sales Leader JORDAN TUCHBAND 203-840-5402 jtuchband@reedexpo.com

INDIA QUINNY D'SOUZA 91-22-6771-6607 cell 91-99-8714-2695 quinny.dsouza@ reedexpo.co.uk ISRAEL RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 rgewertz@reedexpo.com THAILAND CHUMPIA (AOR) SAITHAN 66-2-686-7357 saithan.chum@ reedtradex.co.th CHINA/HONG KONG/ INDONESIA/JAPAN/KOREA/ MALAYSIA/PHILIPPINES/ SINGAPORE/TAIWAN/ VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN 852-2366-1106 fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedexpo.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN THOMPSON 203-840-5878 lathompson@reedexpo.com Director, Content & Community KATE YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@reedexpo.com Strategic Accounts Manager JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Luxury 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedexpo.com Strategic Accounts Manager ANA CROSBY JCK Show 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedexpo.com International Sales Director ALEXANDRA WURSTER 203-840-5332 awurster@reedexpo.com Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, Essentials & Technology, Gallery, Bella Italia, Retail Innovation 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedexpo.com

Booth #: 55048

Account Executive BARBARA MURRAY First Look, GEMS 203-840-5820 bmurray@reedexpo.com Sales Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Bridal, Diamond Plaza, Lab-Grown, Plumb Club 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com Sales Executive MONALISA DePINA Bridge, Design Collective 203-840-5556 mdepina@reedexpo.com Retail Account Director SARA McDONOUGH 203-820-0088 smcdonough@reedexpo.com Senior Marketing Manager JCK Show AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedexpo.com Senior Marketing Manager Luxury MJ McGRATH 203-840-5928 mmcgrath@reedexpo.com

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WEDDING JEWELRY: A POST-PANDEMIC CHECKLIST

We talked to buyers, retailers, manufacturers, and designers to learn what soon-to-be-married shoppers want in 2021.

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KNOCK IT OFF! Designers Lydia Courteille, Alison Lou’s Alison Chemla, Eva Fehren’s Eva Zuckerman, and Marla Aaron (above) assure us that ­imitation is not the sincerest form of flattery. JCK examines the intersection of jewelry creation, copyright infringement, and Instagram—which might be at the root of the knockoff ­phenomenon. Read it at jckonline.com/mag-features.

Still finalizing your JCK shopping list? We rounded up 40 jewels in the year’s hottest hues (peach, Pantone’s Illuminating and Ultimate Gray) and gemstones (emeralds, bluegreen sapphires). Really, you can never go wrong with emeralds from Lauren K (top) or Yael (above).

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JCK x BIJC In February, JCK senior editor Emili Vesilind interviewed the founding members of the Black in Jewelry Coalition, the first international nonprofit dedicated to the inclusion and advancement of Black professionals within the gem, jewelry, and watch industry. Catch the four-part video series at jckonline.com/jck-talks-overview.

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A TRIO OF GEMS Visit us at Booth 19127

Visit us at Booth 19127

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky talked gemstones, mining, pricing, crystals, colors, and more with (from l.) British Vogue editor Carol Woolton; Randi Molofsky, cofounder of For Future Reference and JCK jewelry director; and Stuart Robertson, VP of Gemworld International. Watch it at jckonline.com/jck-talks-overview.

JCKONLINE.COM

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the industry authority

47

SUMMER 2021

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS

O COURTESY OF CHRISTIE’S

U.S. SANCTIONS TARGET BURMESE GEM BIZ Once again, trouble has broken out in the world—and the jewelry industry is caught in the middle

This F.J. Cooper ring, with an oval mixed-cut Burmese ruby, sold for $1.65 million at Christie’s New York on April 13.

BY ROB BATES JCKONLINE.COM

N FEB. 1, the Burmese military seized power in the country, also known as Myanmar. Within weeks, the U.S. Department of the Treasury began imposing sanctions on its government.

Because the Burmese military gets a lot of revenue from gem sales, the colored stone sector was a natural starting point.

On Feb. 18, the Treasury’s Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) added three Burmese gem sellers to its Specially Designated Nationals (SDN) list. Companies based in the United States are not allowed to deal with any SDNs, and sanctioned companies aren’t allowed to do business in the United States. One month later, the OFAC slapped sanctions on two more Burmese companies that reportedly sold gems.

As the country’s government continued to ratchet up the violence and repression, the United States continued to ratchet up the sanctions. On April 8, it sanctioned Myanma Gems Enterprise (MGE), a division of the country’s ministry of mines that also goes by the name Myanmar Gems Corp.

According to the U.S. Treasury, MGE is “responsible for all gemstone activities in Burma,” and organizes the local emporiums and sales where rubies and jade are commonly sold—which means this effectively bans the sale of all rubies, jade, and other gems from Burma in the United States.

Thirteen days later, the OFAC added Myanmar Pearl Enterprise, a state-owned pearl producer, to the list.

All of which has raised a lot of questions—and very few answers.

NEWS GEMS

A private collection of rubies in Mogok, Myanmar

Under OFAC rules, says Sara Yood, deputy general counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, “not only can U.S. businesses not purchase gemstones directly from these entities, but they also cannot buy gemstones from other sources that originated from these specific entities.” So if dealers buy Burmese gems even unwittingly, through a third party, they may have violated U.S. sanctions and risk possible penalties.

It’s unclear what those penalties are, explains Douglas Hucker, CEO of the American Gem Trade Association. Still, he says gem buyers must take steps to protect themselves and ask questions when purchasing rubies or jade—especially when buying from Thailand, a major wholesale market for Burmese gems. “Dealers may have to make an extra effort to ask their suppliers or get some kind of paper trail to find out where this material comes from,” he says.

Yood recommends consulting the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development’s Due Diligence Guidance (duediligenceguidance.org) for tips on questions to ask.

Of course, gemstones, like other raw materials, aren’t easy to track. While the public commonly views Burmese rubies as big spectacular stones, the country also produces a lot of melee—­ often unearthed by artisanal ­diggers who sell it outside formal channels. “When you have a large, high-value gemstone, you might be able to trace a ­provenance around it,” Hucker says.

“But with smaller goods, it’s a lot harder.”

Another frequently asked question: Can dealers sell Burmese rubies and gems purchased before the sanctions took effect? Yes, says Hucker—though it’s possible they may have to produce paperwork to prove when they were purchased.

All of which places a difficult—some say impossible—­ burden on the gem trade. Hucker says the industry has no choice but to try to comply. “Ruby is not the bad guy,” he says.

“The [Myanmar] government is the bad guy. But we don’t run the government there, or here.”

$1.8 BILLION Reported valuation of lab-grown diamond producer Diamond Foundry, following a $200 million capital injection

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RUBIES: THIERRY FALISE/LIGHTROCKET/GETTY; LARK & BERRY X DIAMOND FOUNDRY SUPERNOVA STATEMENT EARRINGS WITH 4.84 CTS. T.W. LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS IN 18K WHITE GOLD, $20,065, LARKANDBERRY.COM

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NEWS GEMS

Q&A

53

Threaded Elisa 14k gold–plated brass pendant necklace in coral illusion; $58

3 Questions for...

TOM NOLAN

Savannah statement earrings in 14k gold– plated brass; $118; kendrascott.com

What do you think has made your founder, Kendra Scott, so successful?

There’s a commonality among very successful founders, which is an inability to quit and a doggedness and desire to solve a problem. Kendra has all of those things and then some. A lot of companies have nice product and philanthropy, but I’d argue that not a lot do it the way that we do it, because it’s who we are.

[Kendra] embedded herself in her local community, which was ­Austin [Texas]. She was a single mom, literally selling jewelry out of a box door-todoor. [She would give away jewelry] because her heart is so big.

By the time we opened our first store in 2011, there was a line around

the building, because that community wanted to support the person that supported them for so long.

Could the brand ever move upscale?

What’s amazing about Kendra Scott— and this is where we have unlimited blue-sky opportunity ahead of us—is our product really speaks to every ­woman. We sell fine jewelry, we sell demi-fine jewelry, so our price points go up to a couple thousand dollars.

Sometimes where brands get a little out of sorts is they forget who their customer is and think their customer is somebody else. We don’t try to be something we’re not. The same things that made us successful in the beginning are making us successful now.

IN FEBRUARY, TOM Nolan—a veteran of Ralph Lauren and Condé Nast—became CEO of Kendra Scott LLC after its namesake and founder stepped aside. (Designer Kendra Scott remains chairwoman and majority owner.) Nolan talked with JCK about how the brand coped with COVID-19 and what’s made it successful. —RB How did your company navigate the COVID-19 pandemic?

We had some pretty significant international expansion plans leading into 2020 that were derailed. In hindsight, that was a good thing.

The retail landscape shifted pretty materially last year. Consumer habits changed. We are a very nimble organization and were able to move really fast. We’re not afraid to take risks. We accelerated a lot of technology applications like buy online, pick up in store.

We were able to meet the customer where she was, and I think it served us really well. At the same time, our business got healthier. We just had to get smarter about operating expenses and how we run the business.

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Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com

Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation

the industry authority

55

SUMMER 2021

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK BORN TO BE STYLED Fashion jewelry retailing is in Ashleigh Bergman’s blood

T

BY EMILI VESILIND

HERE’S NO ONE way to become an expert in fashion jewelry retailing.

But Ashleigh Bergman’s career so far amounts to a doctorate on the topic. When she was 14, Bergman, who is now 40, began selling jewelry at the iconic Los Angeles boutique Fred ­Segal. She remained there for 18 years, becoming a trusted jewelry consultant and buyer for the retailer.

During her tenure, she even developed a jewelry collection with Nina Segal, Fred’s daughter.

Bergman was eventually tapped by Anthropologie, where she was tasked with bringing more branded jewelry into the global retailer’s merchandise mix. The learning curve was steep, she recalls—so much so, she likens her time at Anthropologie to “free grad school.” Ultimately, however, “it was much more about spreadsheets and numbers,” she says. And she missed working directly with jewelry consumers.

In 2015, Bergman founded the virtual jewelry boutique Milestones

by Ashleigh Bergman, which merges online and social retailing with an

KIM BUTAN/CLOTH + STONE PHOTOGRAPHY

Ashleigh Bergman Milestones by Ashleigh Bergman ashleigh bergman.com

JCKONLINE.COM

Shop Talk

56

INNOVATIVE RETAILER Bergman models her own pieces, including (l.) a 14k diamond Motherf*cker ring and (below) pavé diamond small and large link bracelets.

“If you like more of a laid-back L.A. vibe with a twist of lemon, then you like me.”

You have so much experience in physical retailing. What made you decide to be a digital retailer?

I love brick-and-mortar retailing, but I know that’s not where things are right now. So I try to create a ­comfortable feeling in my online space. When I left Anthropologie, I was always personal-shopping for people. I would call brands, and they would give me merchandise on memo. I started posting styles on Instagram, and people were buying things from me from all over the world. I love the access I have to so many more people online.

SUMMER 2021

You’re the primary model on your company’s Instagram and are face-forward on the website, too.

What played into your decision to be so visible in the business?

In the beginning, it was only about the jewelry. I didn’t put my face on it. Then I started realizing—looking back to my Fred Segal days with me on the sales floor—that putting my face on the brand helps to establish trust with people. I started showing myself and started having personal ­relationships with my clients. We would be talking about our kids, and just the craziest things. The brand is me. Ninety-nine percent of the jewelry on the site is photographed by me.

Every time I’m in a showroom, people are like, “Can I help you take a photo?”

And I’m like, “No, I’ve done this for thousands of years, and have taken thousands of pictures of myself.”

I would imagine being the face of your company also sets you apart from your competitors.

I try hard not to look too much at what others are doing and compare.

But I have to say that the one thing that sets me apart is me. I’m not reinventing the wheel. But no one is me. No one puts it together like me, no one looks like me and talks like me and has my sense of humor. It’s a vibe.

I’m not better than anyone else and no one else is better than me. If you like more of a laid-back L.A. vibe with a twist of lemon, then you like me.

You’ve collaborated with some wellknown designers including Ariel Gordon, Maya Brenner, and Walters Faith for your Ashleigh Bergman Collective jewelry series. How did that collection come to be?

The collective came about in 2019 after I’d worked closely with a few brands for over a decade. It was a onetime thing, but we still sell the pieces.

I didn’t want to create a collection, but I’m a designer and I do have ideas of things I want to create that aren’t in the market. It started with

me ­working on one piece with one designer, then it was like, “What if I pick my favorite designers and I make one or two pieces and create a little collection?” They sell it and I sell it.

What made you want to open a by-appointment space?

I created a space that’s really inspiring and calming in Laurel Canyon.

It’s invite-only, but also my door is always open. When I meet people online who are local, they can come in now and see things in real life, which is nice. I think it’s about being flexible. I’ve brought people jewelry everywhere. I can’t tell you how many shady grocery store parking lot handoffs I’ve done!

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.

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PORTRAIT: KIM BUTAN/CLOTH + STONE PHOTOGRAPHY

in-person component—clients can visit the brand’s new light-filled showroom in L.A.’s Laurel Canyon.

The business satisfies Bergman’s love of working one-on-one, with both clients and jewelry makers. “At the end of the day, I like talking to people,” she says. “I’m a retail girl.

No one loves the smell of Windex on glass more than I do!”

Shop Talk

RETAIL THERAPY

A YEAR AND CHANGE

PAOLO SALAMONE OWNER PAOLO, A MODERN JEWELER Cincinnati paolousa.com

BY ROB BATES

A: About 70% of our business is

Q: What COVID-19– related change in your business do you expect to keep in place?

A: While I’m not giving up my brick-and-mortar store, I’m moving my business more toward by-appointment and online.

By-appointment works better for me in my personal life, and it seems my clients like it. It’s more personal—it’s better customer service, as you’re 100% focused on the person. The clients seem to really enjoy it. They are not interrupted by people walking in, and I can curate the selection and really make it about them. I give them soda and snacks and really turn it into an experience.

JILL JARMEL OWNER JBJ CURATED GOODS Walnut Creek, Calif. jbjshop.com

custom. We give people the option to design the piece virtually. I would say 9 out of 10 choose virtual. We never did that before COVID. And we’re keeping that as an option. It’s just a lot more convenient for people.

There’s no mask, there’s no driving, there’s no parking, and they are just sitting at home with a glass of wine or a cup of coffee. I’ll be sitting outside, and they can hear the birds chirping behind me and you can tell that they’re enjoying the moment. A lot of times, we drop the piece off at their door, and then we take a picture of them opening up the box and looking at the piece. And it’s great. You just get that reaction of “Wow, here’s my jeweler at my front door.” It’s not for everyone, but a lot of people like it, and it’s really all about giving people choices and options.

A: I became a better

KERT BLODGETT DIRECTOR OF SALES CHARLES SCHWARTZ & SON Washington, D.C. charlesschwartz.com

A: Ever since COVID,

we’ve probably sold more by text than by anything else. That’s definitely something we’re going to keep doing. Years ago, salespeople weren’t supposed to talk directly with clients; now it’s expected that you be reachable all the time. It’s good for us because, in Washington, D.C., people are from all different places, and every few years or so a lot of them move back. Now we can stay in touch and still offer them the service we’ve been giving them. We ship all over the place now.

We even shipped a package to New Zealand.

ELLEN HERTZ OWNER MAX’S St. Louis Park, Minn. stylebymax.com

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

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buyer, in terms of having a more finely sharpened pencil. My buys are now smaller and more frequent. Before, I would just buy for the next six and a half months. But with COVID, you never knew what was going to happen. At first, we were shut down for two weeks, then four weeks, then it became months.

So without knowing what the future would hold, it forced my hand, made me take a shorter, more targeted approach. I think it’s a better way to buy: You’re not tying up a lot of money in inventory.

Contact: sales@ajsllc.com or 1-855-TRY-EDGE Booth 59052 The Edge helps you outperform your competition and grow your business to its fullest potential. That was our mission when we developed it, and it continues to be our mission today. From effective and easy report creation, to powerful and fast-acting management tools, to education and unlimited support, we’ve combined everything into a complete and powerful package to maximize your profits. Plus, our value-added partners offer a number of benefits in order to enhance your business and increase your bottom line.

Come see the total solution in action at The Edge Village. Meet our partners and get a first-hand look at how they integrate with The Edge. Come take the important next steps to help your business achieve success.

Drive Retail (direct mail marketing, in-store signage) and SnapRetail (online marketing) have partnered to create Edge Prime, the industry’s only integrated marketing solution for jewelers. Edge Prime provides a consistent look and message across multiple communication channels including direct mail, email, social media, and in-store signage.

Because our marketing programs are integrated into The Edge software, you can divide customers by gender, past purchase behavior, most profitable, and more to generate targeted mail and email lists. This approach increases marketing effectiveness and reduces costs. You’ll see increased direct mail response rates, open/click-through rates, and social engagement.

Contact: SnapRetail at edgeprime@snapretail.com or visit theedgeprime.com

The Edge Retail Academy (sister company of The Edge) provides expert consulting services to help with all facets of your business, including: improved financials & cash flow, a healthier inventory, sales growth, increased staff performance, recruiting/staffing and retirement/succession planning – all custom-tailored to your needs.

Contact: Inquiries@EdgeRetailAcademy.com or 877-569-8657, ext. 001 Booth 59052

Contact: Drive Retail at tom@driveretail.com 770-937-0735 or visit DriveRetail.com Booth R16

Podium is redefining the way customers interact with their local jewelers. Through our Interaction Management platform––integrated with The Edge––you can message leads and customers, get reviews and feedback, and communicate easily with your team.

Gemshield Personal Jewelry Insurance works with independent jewelers, offering competitive and comprehensive personal jewelry insurance coverage under our repair and replacement program, and offering excellent and fast claims service. With The Edge integration, your customer will enjoy an easier and quicker way to protect their jewelry at the point of sale.

Contact: sales@gemshield.com

Visit: try.podium.com/edge/ Booth 58052

Harmon provides creative marketing services for all Edge members, including high quality videos, photography, and copywriting.

Contact: contact@harmongrp.com Booth: 59055

Punchmark is the leading jewelry website design agency. Our website integration with The Edge provides jewelers with a true omni-channel solution that extends the physical store into the digital world of e-commerce.

Combined with digital marketing services, there’s no limit to how much you can grow your online business, using a series of proven marketing tactics crafted for jewelry stores of any size.

Contact Ross Cockerham at sales@punchmark.com or 704-910-4774 x2 for more information.

Booth 60057

Free 1-click integration with The Edge www.myzillion.com/theedge

Montage is a leading provider of Care Plans for Jewelry and Watches. By integrating with The Edge, we make selling care plans at point of sale easy, and provide Peace of Mind coverage for your customers and increased revenue for your stores!

Contact: Katie Ronglien at katie.ronglien@montagefs.com or Nancy Getz at nancygetz.montage@outlook.com Booth 60056

JM™ Care Plan helps your customer keep their jewelry or watch in like-new condition by covering normal wear and tear, and accidental damage. It’s integrated with The Edge, offered to your customers at the time of jewelry or watch purchase, and is the perfect way to earn additional revenue.

Email: sales@jmcareplan.com Phone: 800-582-4916 Booth 58051

Cardknox is an omnichannel payment gateway that can be easily utilized with a variety of payment systems including in-person, online or via a mobile app. Fully integrated with The Edge software, jewelry merchants benefit from a single streamlined solution that delivers optimized processing rates, secure payments, and white-glove personal phone support, all at an affordable price.

Contact Larry Wieder at lwieder@cardknox.com or 844-227-3566 x427 for more information.

Booth 59051

Visit The Edge Village on the lower level of the JCK Show

GemFind Digital Solutions specializes in helping jewelry stores create an effective profit-making online presence by curating a combination of innovative digital apps that directly engage customers. We offer complete Digital Marketing and website development in Shopify, Wordpress and Magento integrated with The Edge.

Contact us at Sales@gemfind.com or 800-373-4373 for more information.

Booth 58055

SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

68

121 S. ROYAL ST. ALEXANDRIA, VA.

ALX&CO.

Historic brick buildings are a dime a dozen in picturesque Old Town Alexandria, Va. But when you’re out for a nosh and peaceful stroll, keep an eye out for what one owner calls the “old and quirky” whitewashed edifice housing this fine jewelry store.

I

BY BRITTANY SIMINITZ

SUMMER 2021

ERIN TETTERTON PHOTOGRAPHY

NSIDE ALX&CO. (SHORT for Alexandria & Co.) in Alexandria, Va., husband-and-wife team Meaghan Foran and Tim Shaheen have cultivated an atmosphere that is unexpectedly rich and regal, balancing the 1870 building’s architecture with remarkable modernity. Perhaps most notable in the three main Alx&Co. showrooms are the deep-blue walls—a signature color for the brand—paired with velvet drapery and gold accents, the perfect backdrop to the treasures on display here.

“Our clients love the dark-blue elements,” Foran says.

“They say the whole effect is very calming, which I love, because I find so many jewelry stores to be overwhelmingly bright and austere.” She is the brand’s creative director and director of operations—and the one largely responsible for the store’s rebranding and renovation five years ago.

Shaheen, who has a gift for metalsmithing and design, has owned the business for nearly 15 years, starting as a manager when the store was under a different name. A mutual friend brought the two together, igniting a true partnership: They married in 2014, and Foran officially came on board in 2016, after the birth of their son.

JCKONLINE.COM

69 One of the store’s sun-filled blueaccented rooms Alx&Co.’s own Petite Initial and Beaded bangles

“I am looking forward to finally being able to host in-person trunk shows with our amazing designers.”

—Meaghan Foran A vintage-inspired engagement ring takes center stage.

ERIN TETTERTON PHOTOGRAPHY

A Jennifer Dawes Fault Line ring

JCKONLINE.COM

DESIGNER, CUSTOM, AND MORE

OPENING UP AGAIN

The store stocks a stellar lineup of independent jewelry designers—Tura Sugden, Artemer, Shaya Durbin, Jennifer Dawes, and Christina Malle among them. “I take a lot into consideration when deciding to bring in a new designer collection,” Foran says. “Because we are a workshop at our core, we only want to sell pieces that we feel confident about maintaining for life.” Many of her clients, she explains, are successful self-purchasing women who return because “we don’t encourage the ridiculous narrative that you need a man to buy you jewelry.”

Alx&Co. offers its own line of signature goods‚ in addition to an exquisite array of vintage. But the bulk of the store’s business comes from its custom work—bridal in particular. “They want a ring that is different in some way.

Even if it’s a rather classic style, that might mean simply personalizing a prong style or altering a diamond accent layout,” Foran says. “To me, this is the benefit of working with a bespoke jeweler—you get to really understand the tiny details that will make your ring truly yours, and you know it will work with your lifestyle.”

Like many retailers, Alx&Co. has spent the past year navigating the ins and outs of conducting business with limited hours, appointment-only visits, and virtual consultations, due to the pandemic restrictions. “We have a gorgeous gallery that we built out for the purpose of hosting intimate shopping events,” says Foran, “and right when we really had the room in order, everything shut down.” But now, as the nation begins to reopen, she is eager to offer her customers more in-store experiences. “I am looking forward to finally being able to host in-person trunk shows with our amazing designers! We just held our first evening event in May, and it was so lovely. We love hosting unique events like this. As we move into a freer summer, we’re really looking forward to doing more.”

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

SUMMER 2021

71

the industry authority

SUMMER 2021

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

1

THE LOOK 2

4 1/ Colour Journey ring with Paraiba, pink and purple sapphires, and diamonds in 18k rose gold; price on request; Bulgari; 800-BULGARI; bulgari.com

2/ Black opal ring with fancy sapphires, tsavorite garnets, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $10,400; Omi Privé; 626-331-4533; omiprive.com

3 COCKTAIL ATTIRE

5 3/ Blue zircon ring with turquoise and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Harwell Godfrey; meaghan@forfuturereference.com; harwellgodfrey.com JCKONLINE.COM

A return to nights on the town requires big, bold colored gems.

Break out the bubbly!

4/ Triple Deco Ring with emeralds and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $7,100; Shay; 424-777-0210; shayjewelry.com

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY 5/ Kali rubellite tourmaline ring with diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $48,000; Erica Courtney; 323-9382373; ericacourtney.com

the look

72

RED CARPET

36-inch Regatta convertible necklace with 27 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold, $112,000; Starburst drop necklace with 16 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold, $150,000; Maria Canale; andrea.hansen@ mariacanale.com; mariacanale.com

UNDER $300,000

BACK IN BUSINESS

If this custom electric-yellow Valentino gown gave you Cher flashbacks, you weren’t alone. Zendaya’s longtime stylist Law Roach confirmed that they were inspired by a similarly hued Bob Mackie design from the 1970s. (The actress even wore her waistlength hair with a Cher-esque middle part.) A Bulgari brand ambassador, Zendaya was decked out in more than $6 million worth of jewels. Among her 183.3 carats of yellow and white diamonds: a transformable necklace with two diamond collars and a removable brooch and tassel.

SUMMER 2021

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

High Jewelry necklace in platinum with 6 ct. cushion-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond, 18.18 cts. t.w. diamonds, 49.3 cts. t.w. fancy-shape

step-cut diamonds, and 61.5 cts. t.w. round brilliant-cut diamonds and pavé-set diamonds; price on request; Bulgari

JCKONLINE.COM

ZENDAYA: MATT SAYLES/A.M.P.A.S.

ZENDAYA

The April 25 Academy Awards were a more intimate affair, but there were diamonds aplenty

18K

1.00 ctw 1.50 ctw 2.00 ctw 3.00 ctw 4.00 ctw 5.00 ctw

18K

3.00 ctw 4.00 ctw 5.00 ctw 6.00 ctw 7.00 ctw 8.00 ctw 9.00 ctw 10.00 ctw

$ 1.900 $ 2.100 $ 2.550 $ 2.900 $ 3.700 $ 4.050 $ 4.900 $ 5.400

$ 850 $ 950 $ 1.200 $ 1.950 $ 2.500 $ 3.850

Please visit us at JCK LAS VEGAS 2021 BOOTH 49048

Visit us NEW YORK • LAS VEGAS • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL BASEL • SHARJAH • DUBAI • VICENZA • MIAMI

usa@zendiamond.com

the Look

RED CARPET

74

White gold high jewelry earrings with onyx, 6.47 cts. t.w. square emerald-cut diamonds, 2.65 cts. t.w. pear brilliant diamonds, 1.44 cts. t.w. square emeraldcut diamonds, and 1.1 cts. t.w. round brilliant-cut and pavé diamonds; price on request; Bulgari

UNDER $40,000

Geometric Ear Dusters with onyx, rubellite, and diamonds in 18k white gold and platinum; $36,000; Mindi Mond New York; info@ mindimondny.com; mindimondny.com

REESE WITHERSPOON

While everyone else was fussing over the belt on ­Witherspoon’s ombré-red Dior gown, we were agog over the $3 million in drop-dead gorgeous art deco– style Bulgari jewels, including a one-of-a-kind onyx, akoya pearl, and diamond bracelet; two platinum, ruby, and diamond rings; and onyx and diamond drop earrings. (For the record: We are pro-belt.)

Schlumberger Cooper bracelet in platinum and 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $135,000; Tiffany & Co.

UNDER $150,000

DAY AND WITHERSPOON: MATT PETIT/A.M.P.A.S.; SCHLUMBERGER BRACELET: TIFFANY & CO.

Chain bracelet with 18 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold and platinum; $145,000; David Webb; 212-421-3030; davidwebb.com

ANDRA DAY

A best actress nominee for her turn as the legendary blues singer in The United States vs. Billie Holiday (her feature film debut!), Day stunned in a gold mesh Vera Wang Haute gown crafted of actual metal and $2 million in Tiffany & Co. diamonds, including a brilliant mix of Schlumberger and Tiffany T rings and a traffic-stopping Schlumberger diamond link bracelet. Side note: What’s with all the midriff-baring couture? Did no one in ­Hollywood gain any weight during quarantine?

SUMMER 2021

JCKONLINE.COM

the look

RED CARPET

76

Haute Joaillerie earrings with 28.19 cts. t.w. rubies and 9.54 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; price on request; Chopard

Devmani earrings with 35.3 cts. t.w. rubies and 2.52 cts. t.w. diamonds in vermeil and rhodiumplated sterling silver; $3,500; Modern Moghul; 361-239-8799; modernmoghul.com

ANGELA BASSETT On this year’s telecast, Bassett provided an appropriately somber introduction to the In Memoriam segment. But on the red carpet, she offered one of the most playful looks of the night in a gorgeous puff-sleeved Alberta ­Ferretti confection, a lip-shaped Judith Lieber clutch, and fiery Chopard ruby and diamond jewels. Also, we can’t be the only ones wondering…does this woman ever age? What is her secret? And where can we get our hands on whatever kind of moisturizer she’s using?

Precious Lace ring with 3.93 ct. round sapphire, 13.99 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 6.91 cts. t.w. sapphires in 18k white gold; price on request; Chopard

UNDER $125,000

Platinum ring with 8.88 cts. t.w. sapphires and 2.74 cts. t.w. diamonds; $102,000; Cicada Jewelry; info@ cicadajewelry.com; cicadajewelry.com

SUMMER 2021

H.E.R. Zendaya wasn’t the only young artist paying tribute to a trailblazing musician/ fashion icon on Oscar night: H.E.R.—who took home a trophy for best original song for “Fight for You” from Judas and the Black ­Messiah— donned a beaded purple Dundas jumpsuit inspired by an Academy Awards ensemble worn by Prince. (The Purple One wore a similar caped and hooded ensemble in his ­signature shade when he won for his Purple Rain score in 1985.) Lending additional sparkle to H.E.R.’s winning look: earrings and multiple rings by Chopard.

JCKONLINE.COM

BASSETT AND H.E.R.: MATT PETIT/A.M.P.A.S.

UNDER $5,000

QUA L I T Y. I N T E G R I T Y. R E L I A B I L I T Y. 2 1 3 . 6 2 4 . 1 4 4 1 | P O M P O S J E W E L RY. C O M | QUA L I T Y @ P O M P O S J E W E L RY. C O M

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

78

Neckpiece with 35.63 cts. t.w. cabochon-cut indicolite tourmaline in 14k yellow gold; $15,600

SPEAK & SELL

Take a trim to gem junkie town with the rock stars at Parlé Jewelry Designs

M

OST JEWELRY FANATICS know Parlé Jewelry Designs for the colors it brings into the world: opals in b­ rilliant blues and greens, garnets in reds and pinks, ­sapphires the color of the sky.

But stones and stellar jewels are only part of the Parlé story.

“I always tell everybody, this company is more than just gems,” says creative director Brecken Farnsworth, who runs the business with her husband, Jonathan. “Sure, the gems are what made us famous. But at this point there’s a whole lot of other stuff we’ve done to get where we are today.”

BY MATT VILLANO

HUMBLE BEGINNINGS

0.74 ct. hexagon Montana sapphire ring in 14k yellow gold; $1,195; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

SUMMER 2021

Australian boulder opal, orange sapphire, and Arizona turquoise earrings in 14k yellow gold; $3,995

Parlé began where few finished jewelry companies do: in the earth.

The company originated as Idaho Opal and Gem Corp. in May 1973, and made bank mining opals. Back then, the company was owned by Frank Farnsworth, Jonathan’s dad, and he and his crew would cut and polish the rough opals, set them into simple jewelry, and sell them across the country.

Stone cuts were basic and styles were predictable, because that was precisely what customers those days wanted.

Gradually, over time and out of necessity, the company branched out into different gemstones—first tanzanite, then garnets. In 1991, it became Parlé Jewelry Designs.

The name Parlé (roughly, “to speak” in French) embodies the company’s philosophy about gemstones—they always have to “speak” to the Farnsworths in terms of beauty, rarity, and value. A prime example: Sometime in the late 1990s, Frank bought a whole mine-run of Madagascar rubies, largely because he thought they were being sold at a good price. He JCKONLINE.COM

B2B PORTAL

www.turkishjewellery.org

THE LOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

80

Large Australian opal doublet ring in 14k yellow gold; $1,995

“What we were doing was so unique; we just wanted to have what other people couldn’t get.”

—Brecken Farnsworth

Necklace with Australian boulder opal, spessartite garnet, and diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $7,745

sat on the gems for years until the U.S. government banned Burmese rubies in the mid-2000s. Suddenly value of the product from Madagascar skyrocketed. From that point forward, the company became known as a color supplier.

“It’s pretty amazing to think about how we really made a name for ourselves in the business,” Brecken says. “What we were doing was so unique; we just wanted to have what other people couldn’t get.”

GROWING THE BUSINESS

Australian boulder opal and blue zircon earrings in 14k yellow gold; $4,995

SUMMER 2021

At first Parlé continued to crank out its traditional designs.

Then Brecken started experimenting, designing jewelry for herself. On sales trips Jonathan would show clients pictures of the pieces Brecken had created. They couldn’t buy the stuff fast enough. As Brecken became more confident in her abilities, she hit the gem archive and picked out different stones for new pieces. This commitment to innovation became a signature of the company.

Today the Idaho company has more than 5,000 accounts in the United States and Canada, and makes 70% of the jewelry it sells in the 17,000-square-foot Pocatello ­facility.

Pieces range in price from $200 (in sterling silver) to $100,000 (for intricate statement pieces in gold).

Laura Barringer, senior buyer at Seattle-based Ben Bridge Jeweler, whose stores have been doing business with Parlé for more than two decades, says customer response to the brand’s pieces has grown as Brecken has varied the company’s approach. “Nobody else does opal the way she does opal,” Barringer says. “The gemstone is always the hero.”

Amy Dudzik, fine jewelry buyer at Omaha, Neb.–based Borsheims, points out the way Brecken pairs other gems with the opals—often seizing on streaks of crazy green or red colors in the main stone to pull out colors and attributes in the complementary stones. “I love that she pairs opals with aquas and peridot,” Dudzik says. “Whatever color is coming out of opal, she’ll accent that and bring it out more.”

MARKETING MAVENS Brecken and Jonathan are self-proclaimed gem geeks, and they not so secretly love this about each other. One day a few years ago, they wondered what would happen if they shared their love for gems and minerals with the world.

That’s when the younger Farnsworths came up with their weekly podcast, Gem Junkies.

During the first few weeks, this endeavor was basically a vanity project, a way for two gemologists with madefor-radio voices to geek out about gems. But as the couple started recording episodes and subscription numbers climbed, it quickly became clear that people loved it.

The podcast morphed into a lighthearted, often educational conversation about the science, history, fashion, and marketing of gemstones and jewelry. In every 20- to 30-­minute-or-so episode, Brecken and Jonathan recruited fellow gemologists, jewelry designers, and influencers to talk about their favorite things. Memorable episode titles include “Cleopatra—Girl Loves Her Emeralds,” “Green & Hairy Grossular Garnet Gooseberry,” and “No Viagra, Just Get Fire Opal.”

JCKONLINE.COM

B2B PORTAL

www.turkishjewellery.org

THE LOOK

82

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Necklace with 5.07 ct. free-form Mexican fire opal and 0.23 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $4,765

“The podcast was as much a tool for promoting our nerdiness as it was for raising awareness of gemology and the wonders of gems,” Brecken says. Though the couple no longer produce the podcast weekly, it’s still a big part of the brand, with 71 episodes available on iTunes and other apps.

PANDEMIC CURVEBALL

Earrings with 4.7 cts. t.w.

Australian boulder opal in 14k yellow gold; $1,920

14k yellow gold necklace with free-form natural light Australian opal; $4,495

Earrings with 2.75 cts. t.w.

Australian opal doublets and 0.31 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $1,995

Parlé was lucky to weather the COVID-19 pandemic without much hardship. Still, the last year took its toll in different ways. The company shut down for about two months in March 2020. By the time Brecken and Jonathan were thinking about opening again in late May, Frank had a shocking announcement: He was retiring, effective immediately.

At first the news caught everyone off guard. The more they thought about it, however, the more Brecken and Jonathan realized the timing was perfect for such a change. Because travel had come to a halt, because nobody was jetting off on sales trips or to trade shows, they were able to focus on where they wanted to take the company when they took over.

“It really pushed us into our role as leaders,” she recalls.

“Evaluating this company and saying, ‘This is our team, let’s do our best for them,’ was a really big deal.”

Part of the new plan included investing in ­infrastructure; as the pandemic stretched on, Brecken and Jonathan purchased new machines including a laser welder and laser engraver. They also bought a new back-end system and RFID technology to manage inventory.

While the company was bolstering its equipment, Brecken was dreaming up new concepts. She created a few tourmaline pieces she loves. And several of her designs won 2021 JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards (pages 100, 102, and 108). She says she felt more creative during lockdown than she had in years.

“I was willing to take more risks because I wasn’t designing 40 pieces,” she says. “It was nice to slow down and take the time to figure out what I wanted to do with everything. It was nice to remember what that feels like.”

WHAT’S NEXT Looking forward, Brecken says her immediate plan is to ­focus on Montana sapphires and peacock tanzanite, ­building new and creative pieces around these two gems.

And once COVID-19 restrictions are lifted, Brecken just might dust off her passport and resume her gem-buying trips. In the past, she and Frank regularly flew to Hong Kong. After all these years, she says the hunt for stones that speak to her is still her favorite part of the design process.

“Deep down we’re all treasure hunters, and that’s the thing that gets me out of bed in the morning and brings me to the office,” Brecken says. “What we make isn’t necessary; it’s all for special memories and special moments. That means we get to be a part of people’s happiest times on Earth.”

SUMMER 2021

JCKONLINE.COM

™

the look

Q&A

96

Asks...

PUJA BORDIA

The Trésor Collection founder’s favorite gems?

“Rainbow moonstone, emeralds, multicolor tourmaline. Oh, I just love colors.”

IN JUNE 2010, when Trésor was just 1 year old, JCK put one of the brand’s rings on the cover and named Puja Bordia one of seven designers to watch. We don’t usually say “we told you so,” but in this case, well, we did! More than a decade on, Bordia and Trésor have stayed true to the color, color, and more color aesthetic, regularly turning out staples such as stacking rings and station necklaces along with ultraglam statement pieces. As for the colors people currently can’t get enough of, Bordia confirms our suspicions: “Blues and greens.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 41. It’s just a number.

Number of years in the biz: 12 Number of employees you oversee: Four.

Family and pets: My hubby and 14-year-old son [pictured ].

Describe your personal style: Classy, modern, and chic.

First piece you ever designed: Multicolor tourmaline, ­mandarin garnet, tsavorite garnet, and diamond bracelet.

It was drop-dead gorgeous.

SUMMER 2021

Dazzle bracelet with 68.67 cts. t.w. multicolored stones and 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold

Désir earrings with 5.7 cts. t.w. green tourmaline and 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold

Single piece you’re most proud of: Stunningly gorgeous emerald and diamond necklace.

Best piece of advice you ever received: “Believe you can do it and work for it with all your heart, and the universe will make it happen for you.”

Worst piece of advice: “You can’t do it.”

First job ever: CAD designer.

How did you get started designing jewelry? It’s in my veins.

It’s my heritage—I am the 19th-generation jeweler in my family.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing?

Interior designer.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: My diamond tennis necklace, diamond by the yard with stunning trillion emerald pendant, and my favorite rainbow moonstone station necklace, bracelet, emerald studs, and our colorful stacking rings.

Five items on your desk right now: My gratitude journal, my daily notebook, orders to ship out, loupe, and hand sanitizer.

Five songs on your playlist: “Perfect,” Ed Sheeran; “Say So,” Doja Cat; “Talk,” Khalid; “Peaches,” Justin Bieber [pictured ]; “Love You Zindagi,” Jasleen Royal.

Exercise regimen: Every morning: Five minutes stretching, 10 minutes core workout, 12 sun salutations, five-minute breathing exercise, and 10 minutes meditation. This 40- to 45-minute exercise regimen gives me immense energy to conquer the day.

What did you have for breakfast? Yogurt with granola and loads of berries, fruits, and nuts.

Guilty pleasure: Chocolates.

First website you check every day (not your own!): Instagram and Apple News.

Scent: Intuition by Estée Lauder.

How do you unwind? Singing. I love to sing, so I would go on [the karaoke app] Smule. Also spending quality time with my son. And sometimes a power nap!

Favorite movie: The Pursuit of Happyness [pictured ].

Who would play you in your life story? Jennifer Lawrence.

Personal motto: “Believe in your dreams and work toward it with full intention and 100% of your heart and hard work, and you will be unstoppable. Nothing is impossible, the word itself says—I M POSSIBLE.” JCKONLINE.COM

YOGA PROPS: KNAPE/ISTOCK/GETTY; THE PURSUIT OF HAPPYNESS: COLUMBIA PICTURES/­EVERETT; BIEBER: JEFF KRAVITZ/GETTY; FOOD: IRYNA MELNYK/MOMENT/GETTY

Désir earrings with 26.35 cts. t.w. paraiba tourmaline in 18k yellow gold

2021

J EW E L E R S’ CHOICE AWA R DS THE WINNERS H E R E ’ S T H E J E W E L RY R E TA I L E R S R E WA R D E D . P L U S : T H E P I C K S F RO M J C K ’ S E D I T O R S A N D I N F L U E N C E R S HANNAH BECKER (@DIAMONDOODLES), SEVERINE FERRARI (@ENGAGEMENT 101), BENJAMIN G. GUT TERY ( @ T H I R D C OA S T G E M S ) , D A N I E L L E M I E L E ( @ G E M G O S S I P ) , K AT E R I N A P E R E Z ( @ K AT E R I N A _ P E R E Z ) , E R I C A S I LV E R G L I D E ( @ G E M O L O G Y G E E K ) , A N D B E C K Y S T O N E ( @ D I A M O N D S I N T H E L I B R A R Y ) .

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice

99

WINNER

— BEST BRACELET —

BEST IN SHOW

1

4

Gypsy bangle with diamonds, sapphires, and tsavorite in 18k rose gold; $29,560; tamaracomolli.com

$2,500 & UNDER

2

OVER $10,000

Circle cuff with 9.62 cts. t.w. rubies and 6.69 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $19,500; jbbrothers.com

3

Wiredance open cuff bracelet in 22k gold and oxidized silver with diamonds on top; $2,190; likabehar.com

$2,501–$10,000

Bujukan Wide Bead cuff in 14k white and yellow gold with diamond channels; $9,000; gabrielny.com

— BEST BRIDAL —

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

5

OVER $10,000

Rosie Transformation three-stone ring with 5 ct. emerald-cut center stone, vertical baguettes, micro pavé, and cathedral-like shoulders; $151,000 (with center stone); marisaperry.com

6

$5,001–$10,000

Kaslique 14k white gold split-shank round diamond engagement ring; $6,890 (without center stone); gabrielny.com

7

$2,501–$5,000

Secret Garden ring with 0.52 ct. t.w. marquise-shape diamonds in 18k white gold; $2,850 (without center stone); brilliantearth.com

8

$2,500 & UNDER

Art Deco vintage-inspired round diamond straight engagement ring in 14k white and yellow gold; $1,225 (without center stone); gabrielny.com

100 Influencers’ Choice

— BEST EARRING —

WINNER

9

Hexadangle earrings; $60,000; rahaminov.com

Influencers’ Choice

— BEST PRICE POINT —

13

WINNER

10

Borealis pendant with 1.32 ct. kite-shape amethyst and 0.03 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k rose gold; $659; yaeldesigns.com

OVER $10,000

Earrings with 18.9 cts. t.w.

Australian black opals, 4.33 cts. t.w. mint garnets, and 1.72 cts. t.w. diamonds in recycled 18k white gold; $28,945; parlegems.com

14

11

$501–$1,000

Love Cuff necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds; $660; shycreation.com

$5,001–$10,000

Earrings with 6.86 cts. t.w. stilettocut lagoon tourmaline, diamondencrusted stars, and purple garnets in recycled 14k yellow gold; $7,695; parlegems.com

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

12

$5,000 & UNDER

14k yellow gold hammered-finish Dangling Leaf earrings with 0.2 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds; $2,725; ireiss.com

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

15

$500 & UNDER

Contemporary 14k white and yellow gold curved double-row diamond V ring; $420; gabrielny.com

JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

— BEST NECKLACE —

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

16

E Ho’āla necklace in 14k yellow gold with 16 mm cultured South Sea pearl and 0.79 ct. t.w. brilliant diamonds; $16,995; mauidivers.com

17

OVER $10,000

Havana Cuban link necklace with 18.98 cts. t.w. round brilliant diamonds pavé-set in 14k tricolor gold; $39,810; shycreation.com

18

$2,500–$10,000

Imperial Heart necklace in silver and 18k yellow gold with freshwater pearls, rubies, diamonds, and turquoise copper doublet; $5,100; gerochristojewelry.gr

19

$2,500 & UNDER

Kaslique 14k white gold diamond station Y knot necklace; $1,995; gabrielny.com

101

102 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

— BEST RING —

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

20

26

La Luna matte brushed gold and diamond ring; $9,500; schaffrath1923.com

$2,500 & UNDER

Victorian vintage 14k white gold diamond ring; $2,355; gabrielny.com

25

21

Deco ring with 4.53 ct. emerald-cut lagoon tourmaline and 0.59 ct. t.w. pear-shape and round diamonds in recycled 18k white gold; $9,999; parlegems.com

22

OVER $10,000

Triple Threat ring with heart-shape, oval, and radiant-cut diamonds in platinum; $112,960; rahaminov.com

$2,501–$5,000 (TIE)

Ring with 3.67 ct. peacock tanzanite, 1.08 cts. t.w. mint tourmaline, and 0.22 ct. t.w. brilliant diamonds in recycled 14k white gold; $4,645; parlegems.com

23

$5,001–$10,000

Connecting Bubbles ring with 2.7 cts. t.w. natural fancy pink round diamonds and 1.05 cts. t.w. white round diamonds in 14k rose and white gold; $7,000; neongems.com

24

$2,501–$5,000 (TIE)

Diamond Coil ring with 0.88 ct. t.w. round diamonds and emeraldshape center diamond; $3,420; shycreation.com

Editors’ Choice

103

WINNER Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

— BEST STATEMENT PIECE —

27 29

Ring with 10.17 cts. t.w. custom-cut diamonds and 0.54 ct. t.w. emeralds in platinum and 18k rose gold; $250,000; tariqriaz.com

$10,000–$30,000 (TIE) Sensual Cocoon by Kim bracelet in 18k rose gold with 1.34 cts. t.w. brilliant-cut diamonds; $29,975; wempe.com

28 30

OVER $30,000

Convertible bracelet-choker in 18k yellow and white gold with 12.48 cts. t.w. natural fancy yellow cushion diamonds and 11.8 cts. t.w. kite-shape diamonds; $90,000; neongems.com

$10,000–$30,000 (TIE)

Dream Catcher ring in 18k yellow gold with 1.06 ct. oval pink sapphire, 1.01 cts. t.w. round pink sapphires, 1.7 cts. t.w. blue-green garnets, and 1.46 cts. t.w. diamonds; $18,500; ricardobasta.com

— COLORED DIAMONDS —

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

31

ALL PRICE POINTS

Triple Joy bracelet with 4.13 cts. t.w. natural fancy yellow diamonds, 4.58 cts. t.w. natural fancy pink diamonds, and 4.1 cts. t.w. white diamonds in 14k tricolor gold; $25,000; neongems.com

32

Natural fancy intense purplish-pink 1.56 ct. cushion-cut diamond ring; $350,000; novel-collection.com

33

Uniquely Pink ring with orangepink 10.18 ct. HPHT pear-shape diamond with 2 cts. t.w. diamond halo in 14k yellow and white gold; $350,192; malakandiamond.com

104 Editors’ Choice

WINNER

— COLORED STONES —

34

37

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

OVER $10,000

$2,500 & UNDER

Shades of Padparadscha eternity band with 5.81 cts. t.w. padparadscha sapphires and 1.27 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum and 18k yellow gold; $20,000; ricardobasta.com

Mykonos Eye necklace with diamonds, sapphires, and turquoise; $1,120; shycreation.com

35

36

14k gold necklace with Brazilian tourmaline, Australian black opals, and Kingman turquoise; $6,900; justjules.com

$2,501–$10,000

Earrings with 5.79 cts. t.w. blue sapphires in 18k blue rhodium gold; $7,800; grazielagems.com

— LAB-GROWN — Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

38

ALL PRICE POINTS

Angel’s Wings Haute Couture earrings with 15.34 cts. t.w. labgrown diamonds in 14k white gold; $18,799; smilingrocks.com

39

Sustainable ring with cut-cornered rectangular 4.25 ct. fancy light orange-pink lab-grown diamond in bio-resin setting; $47,625; meylorglobal.com

JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS

105

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

— FASHION/BRIDGE —

40

Turning Tides necklace with abalone in 14k gold–plated sterling silver; $79; aniahaie.com

42

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

Demure bangle in 14k yellow gold with pavé diamond chevron stations; $3,985; gabrielny.com

41

ALL PRICE POINTS

Sun, Moon & Stars lariat necklace in 18k yellow gold vermeil with diamond-cut CZ; $170; arydpo.com

— DIAMONDS —

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Editors’ Choice

WINNER

44

$2,500 & UNDER

Lusso 14k white gold curved stud earrings with graduating marquiseshape diamonds; $1,090; gabrielny.com

OVER $2,500

Diamond Kate bangle with martini-set round diamonds and baguette-shape diamonds; $5,800; shycreation.com

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

106 — GOLD —

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Bujukan 14k yellow gold open collar choker necklace with bead cluster; $2,795; gabrielny.com

OVER $2,500

Asymmetrical yellow gold wedding band with emerald-cut, oval, pear, and marquise diamonds; $10,000; marisaperry.com

47

$2,500 & UNDER

Bujukan 14k yellow gold multi-circle ball huggie earrings; $715; gabrielny.com

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

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Gent’s ring with 5.75 ct. gray spinel and 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds in matte-finished platinum; $15,500; ricardobasta.com

— MEN’S —

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ALL PRICE POINTS

Ring in 18k yellow gold and carbon fiber with 0.84 ct. t.w. diamonds; $4,895; carlexcollection.com

— PERSONALIZED —

50

ALL PRICE POINTS

Zodiac Constellation necklace in 14k yellow gold with amethyst and diamonds; $939; stuller.com

JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS

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— PEARL —

51

$2,500 & UNDER

Jackie necklace with bezel-set diamonds and freshwater pearls on 14k yellow gold chain; $510; shycreation.com

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

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OVER $2,500 (TIE)

14k yellow gold bangle with 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds and 10.5 mm Tahitian black pearl; $10,500; alameahawaii.com

53

OVER $2,500 (TIE)

Everly Mismatch earrings with 8.5 mm Tahitian pearl, 8.5 mm golden South Sea pearl, 7 mm white akoya pearls, light-tone tsavorite, and yellow sapphires in 18k rose, white, and black gold; $12,400; rosavanparys.com

54

E Ho’āla ear cuff in 14k yellow gold with 12 mm cultured South Sea pearls and brilliant diamonds; $29,795; mauidivers.com

108 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS — PLATINUM —

— MIXED METAL —

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Snake Neckpiece in oxidized sterling silver with 18k yellow gold tubing, diamond melee, and garnet cabochon; $3,400; bellebrooke.net

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

57

Editors’ Choice

Fan of Diamonds necklace in platinum with 8.08 cts. t.w. marquise diamonds and 3.62 cts. t.w. white round diamonds; $35,000; neongems.com

WINNER

OVER $10,000

Platinum ring with 9.02 ct. Movál diamond, trapezoids, and diamond melee; $633,000; rahaminov.com

58

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

— TANZANITE —

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

56

ALL PRICE POINTS

Bujukan 14k white and yellow gold diamond huggie drop earrings; $2,145; gabrielny.com

59

ALL PRICE POINTS

Ring with 6.37 ct. peacock tanzanite and diamonds in recycled 18k white gold; $8,745; parlegems.com

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61

$501–$1,000 (TIE)

Eternally Woven & Braided handwoven sterling silver wide cuff; $525; samuelb.com

62

$501–$1,000 (TIE)

Dive-In necklace in 24k gold and sterling silver with faceted aquamarine and round blue sapphires; $860; likabehar.com

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

— SILVER —

60

OVER $1,000

Italian silver hinge bracelet with 0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds and 14k yellow gold; $2,249; aiyadesigns.com

63

$500 & UNDER

Bujukan sterling silver diamond ladies’ ring; $300; gabrielny.com

64

Deco necklace with sterling and oxidized silver diamond-shape pendant and side baguette sapphires on oxidized silver chain; $460; likabehar.com

QUEEN OF DENIM & DIAMONDS

YOU DON’T NEED A BLACK-TIE AFFAIR TO JUSTIFY B R E A K I N G O U T Y O U R M O S T S P E C TA C U L A R J E W E L R Y. T H E B E S T P A R T A B O U T D I A M O N D S ?

T H E Y G O W I T H A B S O L U T E LY E V E RY T H I N G .

Photography by Jason Kim Stylist Daniel Edley Jewelry editor Rima Suqi

18k yellow and white gold earrings with 3.69 cts. t.w. mixed fancy yellow and white diamonds, price on request, Dilamani, 800-342-6677, dilamani. com; 18k yellow gold necklaces with 27.34 cts. t.w. and 24.28 cts. t.w. diamonds, $100,000 each, Norman Silverman Diamonds, 213-687-3985, normansilverman.com; bypass ring with 6.03 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum and 18k yellow gold, $175,120, oval halo ring with 6.92 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum and 18k yellow gold, $146,420, Rahaminov Diamonds, 213-622-9866, rahaminov.com; 18k yellow and rose gold ring with 1.56 cts. t.w. diamonds, $56,880, Yael Designs, 415-989-9235, yaeldesigns.com; bracelet in 18k white gold with 55.44 cts. t.w. diamonds, $205,000, Jye’s International, 415-621-8880, jyescorp. com; Aurora platinum and 18k Honey Gold ring with 14.79 cts. t.w. diamonds, $500,000, Le Vian Couture, 516-4667200, levian.com

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Lusso studs in 14k white gold with 0.26 ct. t.w. diamonds, $750, Gabriel & Co., 212-519-1400, gabrielny.com; 18k white gold earrings with 3.46 cts. t.w. diamonds, $13,650, Doves

by Doron Paloma, 888-663-6837, dovesjewelry.com; 18k white gold necklace with 15.43 cts. t.w. diamonds, $36,000, Andreoli, 212-582-2050, andreolijewelry.com; Glitz bracelet in 18k white gold with 1.07 cts. t.w. diamonds, $13,390, Ritique, 978505-1827, ritique.com; 14k white gold bracelet with 1.19 cts. t.w. diamonds, $6,583, Christopher Designs, 800-955-0970, christopherdesigns. com; Bridge 14k white gold bangle with 3.97 cts. t.w. diamonds, $10,260, Shy Creation, info@shycreation.com, shycreation.com; Demure bangle with 0.94 ct. t.w. diamonds set in 14k white gold, $3,240, Art Moderne ring with 0.63 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold, $2,215, Gabriel & Co.; Mondrian 18k white gold ring with 0.97 ct. t.w. diamonds, $5,165, Doves by Doron Paloma; platinum engagement ring with 4.23 cts. t.w. diamonds, $84,809, Christopher Designs; Ascension bypass ring with 0.65 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $4,185, Graziela, 800-961-1170, grazielagems.com; Lusso 14k white gold ring with 0.47 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,510, Gabriel & Co.; Adele band with 1.66 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold, $5,130, Shy Creation

HAIR: SUHAILAH WALI USING CTRL EDGE TAMER BY STEPHEN HUDSON; MAKEUP: DEANNA HAGAN USING CHANEL BEAUTY/STATEMENT ARTISTS. (PREVIOUS PAGE) DENIM VEST: MARQUES’ ALMEIDA; (L.) DENIM JACKET: ALEXANDER McQUEEN; (R.) DENIM JACKET: L’AGENCE

Fish Hook earrings in 14k yellow gold with 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,650, Sylvie Collection, 800-992-3426, sylviecollection.com; Mine Esme earrings in 18k white gold with 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,750, White/Space, 818-532-7393, whitespacejewelry.com; Diamond Burst 14k yellow gold pendant with 1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,995, Kimberly Elliott for Oro Alexander, 800-782-1231, oroalexander.com; 14k yellow gold star pendant necklace with 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,535, Artistry Ltd., info@artistrylimited.com, artistrylimited.com; 14k yellow gold star pendant on paper clip chain with 0.4 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,175, KC Designs, 800-552-3790, kcdesignsnyc.com; Lucia 14k yellow gold necklace with 1.85 cts. t.w. diamonds, $9,500, GiGi Ferranti, 718-251-1614, gigiferrantijewelry.com; Buenos Días 14k gold Ensueño ring with champagne and white diamonds and sapphire, $1,550, ITÄ, 787-599-5356, itajewelry.com; Kintsugi 18k yellow gold ring with 0.4 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,100, Milamore, 978-505-1827, milamorejewelry.com; Continuity ring with 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $3,320, White/Space; 14k rose gold Showcase Space ring with 1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,500, Kimberly Elliott for Oro Alexander; 14k yellow gold Zig Zag midi ring with 0.01 ct. diamond, $310, Gabriel & Co., 212519-1400, gabrielny.com

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Spiky 18k white gold hoops with 2.84 cts. t.w. diamonds, $15,820, Karma El Khalil, 978-505-1827, karmaelkhalil.com; Opera necklace with 23.93 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, price on request, Dilamani, 800-342-6677, dilamani. com; platinum necklace with 34.27 cts. t.w. diamonds, $160,000, Norman Silverman Diamonds, 213-687-3985, normansilverman. com; Sunburst pin in 18k white gold with 18.57 cts. t.w. diamonds, $87,120, Vivaan, 212-302-0402, vivaan.us; Lusso tennis bracelet in 14k yellow gold with 3.34 cts. t.w. diamonds, $8,935, Gabriel & Co., 212-519-1400, gabrielny. com; Avalon eternity band in 18k two-toned gold with 7.28 cts. t.w. diamonds, $42,400, Le Vian Couture, 516-466-7200, levian. com; 18k white gold bracelet with 14.5 cts. t.w. diamonds, $38,000, Andreoli, 212-582-2050, andreolijewelry.com; Lusso ring in 14k white gold with 1.15 cts. t.w. diamonds, $2,750, Gabriel & Co.; diamond link stack ring in 14k white and yellow gold with 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds, price on request, Dilamani

(L.): DENIM JACKET: VERONICA BEARD; DENIM PANTS: L’AGENCE; (R.) DENIM SHIRT: BALMAIN

18k white gold earrings with 7.27 cts. t.w. diamonds, $15,950, Andreoli, 212-582-2050, andreolijewelry.com; Knot Argyle necklace with 4.8 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum and 18k rose and white gold, $76,000, Scott West, 212-997-0940, ljwestdiamonds. com; Marvelous Movál ring with 11.32 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum, price on request, Rahaminov Diamonds, 213-622-9866, rahaminov.com; Demure 14k white gold bracelet with 1.05 cts. t.w. diamonds, $3,710, Gabriel & Co., 212-519-1400, gabrielny.com; Ascension bangle with 1.4 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $8,750, Graziela, 800-961-1170, grazielagems.com; platinum and 18k white gold bracelet with 1 ct. t.w. old-mine diamonds, $7,500, Just Jules, 480-860-6211, justjules. com; Lusso 14k white gold cuff with 1.7 cts. t.w. diamonds, $6,600, 14k white gold bangle with 1.33 cts. t.w. diamonds, $4,555, Gabriel & Co.; Avaanti 18k white gold bangle with 0.48 ct. t.w. diamonds, $7,295, De Beers Forevermark, 203-3883527, forevermark.com

(L.) DENIM JACKET: ISABEL MARANT; (R.) DENIM JACKET: ALEXANDER WANG

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Wing earrings with 2.2 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $7,990, Graziela, 800-961-1170, grazielagems.com; Classique earrings in 14k white gold with 0.84 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,197, Effy, 877-2753339, effyjewelry.com; Dew Drop 14k white gold necklace with 1.28 cts. t.w. diamonds, price on request, Dilamani, 800-342-6677, dilamani. com; 18k white gold necklace with 17.97 cts. t.w. diamonds, $60,000, Norman Silverman Diamonds, 213-687-3985, normansilverman.com; 14k white gold ring with 1.82 cts. t.w. diamonds, $2,575 (without center stone), Sylvie Collection, 800-9923426, sylviecollection.com; Marquis ring with 0.68 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $4,609, Vivaan, 212-302-0402, vivaan.us

Lusso 14k white gold ear cuff with 0.16 ct. t.w. diamonds, $575, Gabriel & Co., 212-519-1400, gabrielny.com; platinum earrings with 38.38 cts. t.w. diamonds, price on request, Rahaminov Diamonds, 213-6229866, rahaminov.com; Celestial 14k white gold necklace with 176.6 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds, $67,000, Vrai, hello@vrai.com, vrai.com; 18k white gold engagement ring with 2.17 cts. t.w. diamonds, $32,395, Christopher Designs, 800-9550970, christopherdesigns.com; Avaanti 18k white gold ring with 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,295, De Beers Forevermark, 203-388-3527, forevermark.com; 14k white gold ring with 4.46 cts. t.w. diamonds, $3,115 (without center stone), Sylvie Collection, 800-992-3426, sylviecollection.com; Babs ring with 2 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, price on request, Alison Lou, 646-918-7114, alisonlou.com; 18k white gold bracelet with 8.35 cts. t.w. diamonds, $47,838, Yael Designs, 415-989-9235, yaeldesigns.com; Lusso 14k white gold bracelet with 3.85 cts. t.w. diamonds, $11,095, Gabriel & Co.; Silhouette Ashoka diamond line platinum bracelet with 10.12 cts. t.w. diamonds, $130,000, Kwiat, 212-7257777, kwiat.com

118 I C A N ’ T WA I T T O B U R N M Y S W E AT S . R A I S E Y O U R H A N D I F T H E T H O U G H T HAS CROSSED YOUR MIND. IF IT HAS, YOU’RE IN LUCK BECAUSE DESIGNERS ARE, M O R E O R L E S S , O N T H E S A M E WAV E L E N G T H .

b y Ve n e s s a L a u

D DR R EESSSS FALL

Y YO OU U FASHION

U U PP PREVIEW

I

F THERE WAS one unifying anthem for the fall 2021 collections, it was this, courtesy of the fabulous Diana Ross: “I’m coming out! I want the world to know, got to let it show.” In other words, introvert hibernation is over and head-turning opulence is in.

Of course, this wasn’t exactly a given at the start of the shows in February. The United States was still at the height of the pandemic, and what loomed ahead was largely unknown. It was fashion’s second season done in quarantine, and the big question remained as to whether the recent pivot to sweats, comfort, and ease would continue. While some stayed the course (Undercover opened with a PJs and oversized-sweater series) and others pursued an upcycling track (Antonio Marras, Coach), the majority ultimately let their fantasies and pent-up wanderlust take the lead.

There were sequins, so many sequins. Party dresses.

And tulle. Tulle! For fall! Designers served up serious fashion—which, half a year ago, would have seemed woefully out of touch.

But as the show season came to a close in late April—yes, the shows, on a fragmented schedule, went on for nearly three months—and the vaccine rollout in the United States signaled an end in sight, that dressed-up dream actually felt within reach. Remember heels? Zippers? Buttons? How about glorious fringe and extravagant jewels, lavish earrings, and piled-on rings?

If you need further evidence of fashion’s collective optimism, consider this: Minis were a trend and crop tops too. And you know what they say about rising hemlines. So, jewelry lovers, get ready and get excited.

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t the start of the new year, a meme linking the end of the 1918 pandemic to the Roaring ’20s started going viral on social media. “It has become very clear to me,” tweeted @JenniDigital, “why people were dressing up to go just about anywhere.”

Whether or not another period of prosperity plays out in the real world—we’ll let the historians quibble about that—we’ll certainly see it on the fashion stage. Because fall was all about freewheeling fun, with one of the leading trends coming straight from the 1920s: fringe. And this wasn’t hippie or deconstructed fringe, like we saw last year; this was glamorous cascades of the stuff—from the mammoth pearl fringe necklace at Jil Sander that streamed down to the waist to the light-catching beauties seen at Gucci, Prabal Gurung (pictured), Rokh, and Saint Laurent. Designers doubled down on the look too: Lanvin paired glittering fringe earrings with a quivering feather chubby, and Andrew Gn, shoulder-sweeping pearl tassels with tiered fringe boots.

Perhaps a consequence of the monthslong lockdown, movement was on a lot of the designers’ minds— Dries Van Noten, Etro, Erdem, and Kenzo all found inspiration in dancers and the body in motion. And fringe is the perfect expression of that. It’s a trend that demands to be outside, that begs for a dance party—or a streetstyle shutterbug nearby. Finally— goodbye, couch. Hello, making an entrance again.

/1/ Affinity 20k yellow gold necklace with pearl strands and tassel, diamonds, aquamarines, lapis beads, and malachite inlay; $19,000; Coomi; 866-867-7272; coomi.com

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/2/ Sipan Tassel earrings with 2.51 cts. t.w. Muzo emeralds and natural blue turquoise in 22k yellow gold; $29,600; Loren Nicole x Muzo; info@muzoemerald.com; muzo.co

THE SW I N G OF THINGS /3/ Dusk necklace with cultured pearls, carved rock crystal, diamonds, and white enamel in 18k gold and platinum; $185,000; David Webb; 212-421-3030; davidwebb.com

/4/ 2.5 mm–3 mm white freshwater pearl tassel earrings with 0.55 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold; $3,310; Mastoloni; sales@ mastoloni.com; mastoloni.com

5 /5/ Padma earrings with emerald tassels and pavé diamonds in rhodium-plated sterling silver; $5,000; Modern Moghul; 361-239-8799; modernmoghul.com

1 DY N A S T Y DECADENCE

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3 4 5 /1/ Emerald Solitaire Pavé Geo Link necklace with 9.83 ct. emerald and 12.57 cts. t.w. white diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $74,000; Shay; 424-777-0210; shayjewelry.com

/2/ Tudores Basel earrings with Czech glass stones in 24k gold– plated pewter; $155; Ben-Amun

by Isaac Manevitz; 212-9446480; ben-amun.com

/3/ Poured glass brooch in 18k gold– plated copper; $460; Moans; Instagram: @Moans_NYC; moanscouture.com

T

he 1920s wasn’t the only 20th-century era with a hold on decadence. Fashion went grand in the big, brash ’80s as well.

All that decade’s hallmarks were in the fall collections, from tulle (Stella McCartney, Christian Siriano, and Giambattista Valli) and taffeta (Molly Goddard, Dries Van Noten, and Oscar de la Renta) to serious sequins (Valentino, Prada, and Michael Kors, the last against a backdrop of Broadway’s bright lights, no less).

Pearls? There were plenty—lavishly strung. Just check out Moschino, whose fall 2021 video outing was styled after the fashion-show sequence in George Cukor’s The Women. (Watch the short on YouTube; it’s a delight.) Winnie Harlow wore a jumbo multistrand pearl necklace over a gown with a matching trompe l’oeil “necklace” and pearl-dotted shoes. And giant cabochon earrings to boot. Picture the ’80s by way of Old Hollywood: Joan Collins meets Joan Crawford.

If you can’t tell already, excess is the buzzword here. Jewelry, from New York to Paris, was supersized—like the hefty chain collars at Givenchy and the door knockers at Alberta Ferretti.

There were big stones and big brooches galore and, at Osman Yousefzada (pictured), gargantuan chokers and earrings—the better to go with those massive, operatic pouf sleeves. But perhaps nothing captured the splashy mood better than the oversize earrings made from mirror shards at Tom Ford.

What’s more reflective of the navelgazing Greed Decade than that?

/4/ Catena ring in 18k yellow gold with 2.9 ct. emerald cabochon; $5,000; Nadine Aysoy; info@ aysoydesign.com; nadineaysoy.com

/5/ Stena pearl earrings in 18k gold with freshwater button pearls and 0.75 ct. t.w. diamonds; $4,000; Misahara; 805-390-6326; misahara.com

YOUSEFZADA: IMAXTREE.COM

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ere’s another entry for fall’s more-is-more moment: statement rings, worn in multiples. And we’re not talking about dainty stacks. Designers served up outrageously bold cocktail pieces in the fall shows. The master of maximalism, Alessandro Michele at Gucci, gave us gold stunners with a pavé-covered center; Stella Jean, handcrafted rings with king-size semiprecious stones; Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry, beguiling surrealist showstoppers shaped like teeth—one on each finger and complete with diamond stud “fillings.” Marine Serre, meanwhile, added dangling charms.

Sometimes it was hard to tell if the model had piled on the rings or was simply wearing flamboyant knuckle-dusters. But did that actually make a difference? Not really. It was the scene-stealing effect that mattered. Another part of the trend’s allure is the ability to mix and match styles, allowing room for play and improvisation—just check out Tory Burch’s artful toppers (pictured) that mirrored the magpie button details down the side of a lovely sashed dress.

We all know that’s part of the fun and joy of wearing jewelry anyway.

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BURCH: COURTESY OF TORY BURCH

5 /1/ Grab n Go Ready 2 Release ring in 18k yellow gold and rainbow enamel; £4,450 ($6,309); NeverNoT; info@nevernot.co.uk; nevernot.co.uk

/2/ Lucent cocktail ring; $299; Swarovski; 800-426-3088; swarovski.com

/3/ Plastic Fantastic Palm Beach ring in vintage Lucite with aquamarine and 18k yellow gold; £2,500 ($3,543); Tessa Packard; info@tessa packard.com; tessapackard.com

/4/ Perpetual Motion spinning ring in 18k yellow gold with white pavé diamond ball; $8,500; Yael Sonia; 212-472-6488; yaelsonia.com

/5/ 18k yellow gold Francis tourmaline enamel ring; $3,972; Sig Ward; 310-871-5360; sigwardjewelry.com

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he collections had their fair share of chain-links and charms, chokers and collars, but one trend that felt fresh was the spotlight on pendants. They were bigger, more substantial than we’ve seen lately. Sure, there was a smattering of the familiar ladylike drops (Versace, Fendi), but it was much ado about statement styles that draw the eye to a conversationstarting focal point—such as the allover glitter fangs at Roberto Cavalli, the gemstone crosses at Saint Laurent, and the heart-shape drops at Carolina Herrera.

Curiously enough, this season also saw a vogue for more utilitarian takes.

There were dangling keys and a sliver of a pouch at Hermès, water bottles (flasks?) at Givenchy, and compact containers, some blinged out with rhinestones, at Chanel, all hanging from the neck—consider this the next step of the ever-shrinking micro bag.

The award for most practical pendant, however, goes to the sizable healing crystals at Gabriela Hearst’s debut at Chloé (pictured). Jewelry with a side of talismanic self-care?

After the year we’ve had, yes, please.

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/1/ Istanbul pendant with brown and white diamonds and tourmaline in pink gold; $20,900; Selim Mouzannar; 96-11-331-299; selimmouzannar.com

/2/ Anchored Heart pendant necklace in 18k gold and leather; $5,800; Jenna Blake; info@jennablake. com; jennablake.com

/3/ Twin Pyramid tiger’s eye necklace with 18k yellow gold vermeil 40-inch chain; $340; Crystals for Humanity; anjanette@gem-water. com; crystalsforhumanity.com

/4/ Alternating pavé diamond link rose gold bracelet with thick bone tusk charm; price on request; Jacquie Aiche; 310-550-7529; jacquieaiche.com

/5/ YOLO earrings with prehnite, citrine, and freshwater pearl in gold-plated brass and sterling silver; $220; Lizzie Fortunato; 212-777-1008; lizziefortunato.com

CHLOÉ: IMAXTREE.COM

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ne could read each of the season’s trends as a reaction to our current state of affairs— dressing up to thrill the heart again, for instance, or fringe as a sign of our yen to simply get moving. So what better antidote to quarantine confinement than a celebration of nature? That’s exactly what designers gave us in abundant florals for fall—a reminder of the pleasures of alfresco living.

Blooms came every which way—in patchwork prints at Chopova Lowena, gorgeous embroideries at Oscar de la Renta, and sun-faded dyes at Marni.

Jewelry followed suit, tapping into myriad moods from sculptural to playful to utterly romantic. Highlights included Simone Rocha’s baroque pearl drops with hand-painted roses and Y/Project’s art nouveau–style floral statement earrings (pictured), which—together with the occasional pops of blush and rosette-like twists and folds—offered an uplifting, poetic counterpoint to the collection’s gloomy palette.

And then there was fall’s nascent butterfly theme: Lepidoptera appeared on runways as varied as Joseph Altuzarra, Chloé, Undercover, and Jil Sander. It was the sort of motif we could embrace. Cue Miss Ross: “There’s a new me coming out.”

Today, cocoon. Tomorrow, we emerge.

/1/ Turquoise butterfly earrings with resin in rhodium- and 14k gold– plated brass; $135; Mignonne Gavigan; sales@mignonnegavigan. com; mignonnegavigan.com

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/2/ Tropical Flower necklace with carved turquoise and boulder opal in 18k yellow gold; $21,960; Irene Neuwirth; sales@ireneneuwirth. com; ireneneuwirth.com

/3/ Freedom butterfly earrings in 10k gold with white mother-of-pearl drops; $598; Jane Win; service@ janewin.com; janewin.com

/4/ Necklace with lapis, carnelian, rose quartz, blue quartz, turquoise, chrysoprase, crystal, and iolite removable pendants; $792; Bounkit; 212-244-1877; bounkit.com

/5/ 18k gold ring with jade, sapphires, rubies, tsavorite, and diamonds; price on request; Lydia Courteille; lauren@megamegaprojects.com; lydiacourteille.com

P E A R L E S S E N C E IF YOU’VE SEEN A RISE IN REQUESTS FOR THE GLISTENING GEM, YOU’RE NOT ALONE (THANKS, MADAM VP!).

EVERYONE IS GOING PEARL CRAZY.

Pearl earrings with diamonds and 6.33 cts. t.w. emeralds in 18k white gold; $24,858; Yael Designs;; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com

125 Eclisse 18k rose gold ring with black Tahitian pearl and 0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds, $5,900, Mastoloni,, 212-757-7278, mastoloni.com;; mastoloni.com Tahitian keshi and Tahitian drop pearl necklace in 14k white gold, $870, Baggins Inc.,, 213-624-2277, bagginspearls.com

Photography by Joel Stans Prop st ylist Jocelyn Cabral Jewelry editor Rima Suqi

Earrings with 6.63 cts t.w. Brazilian imperial topaz, dendritic agate, and 13 mm golden South Sea pearls in 18k yellow gold; $13,800; Assael;; 212-819-0060; assael.com

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18k rose gold cuff with Tahitian pearl, 2.7 ct. white opal and 0.58 ct. t.w. diamonds, $8,408, Yael Designs, 415-989-9235, yaeldesigns.com;; yaeldesigns.com ring with cultured white South Sea pearl, 4.09 cts. t.w. sapphires, and 1.65 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $21,650, Jye’s International,, 415621-8880, jyescorp. com;; 18k yellow com gold and oxidized silver necklace with Japanese faceted Tahitian pearls, $16,866, Ray Griffiths Fine Jewelry,, 212-8100577, raygriffiths.com

Earrings in 18k yellow gold with Tahitian cultured pearls, $3,900, Rush Jewelry Design,, 978-505-1827, rushjewelrydesign. com;; Bubble com Tahitian pearl earrings in 18k yellow gold, $12,900, Assael,, 212-819-0060, assael.com

129 South Sea pearl ring with 3.18 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $17,000, Andreoli,, 212-582-2050, andreolijewelry. com;; 18k rose gold com ring with South Sea pearl, 4.75 cts. t.w. yellow sapphires, and 3 cts. t.w. diamonds, $21,000, Belpearl,, 212-7526600, belpearl.com

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IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR US (WHEN WE’RE N O T L O O K I N G AT J E W E L R Y, O F C O U R S E ) , W E ’ L L B E AT O N E O F T H E S E N E W H OT S P OT S

by Matt Villano

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131 1. Neon cowgirl Vegas Vickie 2. The Venetian and Palazzo, aka ground zero for JCK 3. Spiegelworld’s skin-baring Atomic Saloon Show 4. Laura Kimpton’s LOVE installation at The Venetian’s waterfall atrium

5. The climbing wall at The Venetian’s Canyon Ranch spa 6. A year’s worth of zodiac drinks, available at the Cocktail Collective (The Dorsey, Rosina, and Electra) in The Venetian 7. Italian specialties at Brera Osteria

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FTER NEARLY 16 months of dealing with the hardships of the COVID-19 pandemic, you might be more excited than usual for the JCK show’s return to Las Vegas.

Of course, it’ll be inspiring to see all the new products and designs the industry has assembled while engaged in quarantine and social distancing. But…Dinners! Drinking! Dispensaries! Experiencing these things by yourself would be reason enough to let loose. Doing them with colleagues—now, that’s cause for real celebration.

Luckily, during the pandemic, Las Vegas rolled out a bunch of new spots worth exploring.

NEW RESORTS Believe it or not, three new casino resorts have opened in Sin City since March 2020. The newest: Resorts World Las Vegas, which is a short walk (or a slightly longer rideshare) from The Venetian Resort and the Sands Expo and Convention Center, where the JCK and Luxury shows will be happening; it’s the first new casino resort on the Strip since Aria debuted at City Center in 2009.

Resorts World is owned by Malaysia-based Genting Group. The entire resort has a definite Asian vibe.

132 8. The spankingnew Circa resort 9. Trippy interactive art inside AREA15 10. A moment of poolside Zen courtesy of the Canyon Ranch spa 11. The makings of Boon Tong Kee’s chicken rice at Famous Foods Street Eats

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Setting aside spa time is always a good idea when traveling for work.

of Glitter Gulch strip club. Vickie now adorns an expansive wall near the hotel lobby—and her motorized leg still “kicks.”

NEW ATTRACTIONS Without question, the most creative new attraction to open in Las Vegas in the last year is AREA15, an experiential entertainment district on the west side of Interstate 15 that features live events, monumental art installations, extraordinary design elements, immersive technology, retail, bars, eateries, and more. AREA15 opened in September but welcomed its most high-profile tenant in February when arts and entertainment firm Meow Wolf launched Omega Mart.

Describing Omega Mart as “performance art” doesn’t really do it justice. Think of it as a wacky shopping trip that is one part art gallery, one part theater, and one part vision quest. The experience will make you laugh, cringe, and maybe even scream with delight. It also may leave you feeling like a character from Alice in Wonderland.

Another sight to behold: Allegiant Stadium, the new home of the Las Vegas Raiders. While there won’t be football going on during the JCK show, the stadium is expected to open up this summer for tours. Considering the engineering behind the rollaway grass field and the swanky high-roller boxes that ring the stadium, it might be worth a gander.

Also, consider making time to check out the ever-growing Planet 13 cannabis dispensary behind Fashion Show Mall. Not only does the joint (see what we did

1: ETHAN MILLER/GETTY IMAGES FOR CIRCA RESORT & CASINO; 2: GOAT RODEO PRODUCTIONS; 3: ERIK KABIK FOR SPIEGELWORLD; 4: THOMAS HART SHELBY GOAT RODEO PRODUCTIONS; 6: DREX AGENCY

The food court, Famous Foods Street Eats (FFSE), was inspired by hawker centers in Singapore and features 16 food stalls from top chefs and restaurateurs.

On the list of chefs: Vegas’ James Trees, who will run a mozzarella-and-burrata bar, and Ah Guan, who will re-create a Singaporean-style charcoal-fired noodle bar.

The FFSE food court also will boast a stall stocked with the Ah Chun restaurant’s take on Shandong dumplings, another serving Boon Tong Kee’s version of traditional Hainanese chicken rice, a third that will dish out Thai beef noodles from Ten Suns Braised Beef, and the first Vegas outpost of Tiger Sugar, the Taiwanese bubble tea shop known for its famous black sugar boba milk.

Elsewhere, Resorts World will welcome Wally’s Wine & Spirits, a beloved wine bar from Los Angeles renowned for its massive selection (more than 100 choices!) of wines by the glass.

In case you’re wondering, the casino at Resorts World looks like it will be swanky, too, but we’re much more excited about the food.

Off the Strip, Circa Resort & Casino, the first new resort in downtown Las Vegas in 40 years, revolves around the biggest (and perhaps fanciest) sportsbook in town, making it a spectacular place to go and watch (or bet on) a game.

This resort opened in December 2020, and the rooftop bar, the Legacy Club, quickly established itself as a great new spot to grab a cocktail and watch the sunset.

As you stroll through the gambling floor at Circa, be sure to look out for Vegas Vickie, the 25-foot-tall neon cowgirl who famously beckoned visitors to the Girls

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133 12. The super-fresh seafood selection at Estiatorio Milos at The Venetian 13. The sunset view at Circa’s Legacy Club 14. The Venetian’s replica of Venice’s St. Mark’s Square 15. Charcuterie and cheese at Wally’s Wine & Spirits at Resorts World

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there?) have hundreds of different edibles, flowers, oils, and pre-rolls, but it also has a host of kinetic sculptures and interactive LED light displays that are particularly funky after you’ve bought and tried the merchandise.

7, 12: COURTESY OF THE VENETIAN; 8: COURTESY OF CIRCA; 9: PETER RUPRECHT; 11: BOON TONG KEE; 15: COURTESY OF WALLY’S WINE & SPIRITS

AT THE VENETIAN RESORT For those who’d rather not wander too far from home, there are plenty of things to do and see just minutes away from JCK. No. 1 on the list: Estiatorio Milos, which recently moved from the Cosmopolitan to The Venetian’s Restaurant Row. When you dine here, you pick out your fish in a marketplace-type setting; then the chefs cook it up for you in the kitchen.

(No, the experience isn’t cheap; depending on the fish you select, it can be quite spendy. One tip: Ask what the “weighed” portion of your order will cost.) In terms of what to order, the carabinero prawns are almost always a hit, and you never can go wrong with langoustines. Even if you don’t like courgettes, try the stack of fried zucchini and get the Instagram filters ready.

Another relative newcomer: Brera Osteria, which opened in February. The restaurant sits on the resort’s replica of St. Mark’s Square and delivers an Italian vibe with an aperitivo hour, the Italian equivalent to Americans’ happy hour. In Italy’s restaurants and bars, aperitivo hours usually include free food with drinks; at Brera, most drinks—including the stellar spritzes—and pizzas are 50% off.

Among the other standout restaurants at The Venetian Resort: David Chang’s Majordōmo, where the family-style smoked whole-plate short ribs

come with beef rice and ssamjang, and Smith & Wollensky, the legendary s­ teakhouse that opened inside The Venetian in May 2019.

The resort isn’t known only for food; it’s renowned for drinks, too. Mixologists at the Cocktail Collective, a trio of bars at the resort, have devised a cocktail program that comprises 12 drinks dedicated to signs of the zodiac. When you visit The Dorsey, Rosina, or Electra on your birthday, you get a 50% discount on your first zodiac cocktail. If you’re a Virgo (Aug. 23–Sept. 22) celebrating at JCK, your drink is a French-inspired spin on a sour, mixing Calvados, Bénédictine, lemon, honey, and cinnamon-topped apple slices. The zodiac concoction for Scorpios— like this writer—incorporates rye, Jamaican rum, Amaro CioCiaro, Carpano Antica, two dashes of absinthe, and a maraschino cherry.

Setting aside spa time is always a good idea when traveling for work, and The Venetian’s Canyon Ranch spa is second to none. In addition to cardio equipment, Pelotons, and Pilates and yoga classes, the fitness center features a 40-foot climbing wall, without question the largest resort wall in all of Las Vegas.

Finally, for a dose of irreverent fun, check out Atomic Saloon Show, the latest from Spiegelworld (the minds behind Absinthe and Opium). The 21-and-over show takes audiences on a rollicking and sexually suggestive trip to Madame Boozy Skunkton’s version of the Wild West—a version in which few of the cast members wear shirts.

For some, this may play out like a typical night in Las Vegas. For others, the action conjures a world you likely won’t forget—at least not until next year.

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FROM AUG. 24 TO 30, THE VENETIAN RESORT & SANDS EXPO WILL PLAY HOST TO LUXURY AND JCK. DON’T FORGET TO PACK YOUR SEQUINS.

by Victoria Gomelsky

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1. 24- to 36-inch opera necklaces and tennis choker with 0.54 ct. t.w.–4.75 cts. t.w. diamonds, $1,499–$11,699, facetbarcelona.com 2. 18k white gold bypass ring with oval jadeites and diamonds, $19,000, vtsejewelry.com 3. Rays of Sun earrings with diamonds in white and rose gold, price on request, palmierogioielli.com 4. Delia 18k Vanilla Gold ring with 5 ct. cushion Neon Blue Paraiba Tourmaline, 1.05 cts. t.w. Vanilla Diamonds, and 0.01 ct. Chocolate Diamond, $37,997, levian.com 5. Gemma earrings with tanzanite, moonstones, boulder opals, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $5,250, laurenk.com

FTER A 15-MONTH hiatus, JCK and its sibling event, Luxury, are back at The Venetian Resort & Sands Expo! Both events open to all registered ­buyers Friday, Aug. 27, and conclude Monday, Aug. 30. (Luxury opens on an ­invitation-only basis Tuesday, Aug. 24.)

Health and safety are, of course, top of mind. As public health guidance continues to change, check the show website (lasvegas.jckonline.com) for the most up-to-date information about masking and social distancing guidelines.

To help you shop the floor’s 1,500-plus exhibiting companies, network with ­industry colleagues and friends, and eat, drink, and be entertained like it’s 2019 (with a few ­pandemic-era provisions), we’ve put together a handy guide to what’s new and what’s returning during 2021 Las Vegas Jewelry Week. Now dust off your heels, suits, and sequins—it’s show time!

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WHAT’S NEW DESIGNER CENTRAL The JCK show is going all out on the design category this year with the debut of the Design Collective, a new neighborhood that unites the show’s designer contingent in a single pavilion. Located near the show entrance, across from Plumb Club, the pavilion is home to three types of exhibitors: Rising Stars, jewelers who’ve been in the business for less than five years (Tariq Riaz’s collection of luxe ­diamond jewels inspired by the landmarks and traditions of Arabian culture is a standout); Residents, established designers with recognizable aesthetics (New York City–based Lina Caballero makes her JCK debut here); and Luminaries, a new category of upscale jewelers known for their unique designs and exceptional craftsmanship (also new to JCK: playful Parisian brand Djula). The pavilion will also showcase a cohort of designers from Greece as well as an area dedicated to designers who belong to the Women’s Jewelry Association.

“We wanted to make it easy to find all aspects of design in one place,” says Sarin Bachmann, group vice president of RX USA Jewelry Group. Mission accomplished!

SPECIAL EDUCATION Redesigned with flexibility in mind, the JCK Talks education program will now span all four days of the show instead of just one pre-show day. Attendees can participate in the ­seminars live or watch them from viewing pods ­located throughout the Sands. New features include

a live Podcast Zone featuring top industry podcasters and two new bootcamps: one dedicated to succession led by ­industry e­ xpert Bill Boyajian and another on content creation ­presented by The Smithee Group.

LUXURY LOCATION

The high-end show will have the same timing as prior years (opening Tuesday, Aug. 24, to invited guests before welcoming all JCK attendees Friday, Aug. 27), but its location is changing. Luxury will now take place in ballrooms on the fourth and fifth floors of The Venetian. Expect to find new collections heavy on the season’s surefire blue-green combo (Lauren K), colossal cabochons (VTse), endless diamond necklaces (Facet Barcelona), and stacks of colorful tennis bracelets (Roberto Demeglio). Remember: Opulence is back!

WHAT’S RETURNING THE BREAKFAST CLUB Both Luxury and JCK will once again kick off with breakfast events guaranteed to inform and inspire. The Luxury address is Wednesday, Aug. 25, from 8 to 9:30 a.m. in the Casanova Ballroom. Titled “The Cartiers: Overcoming Adversity,” the session features Francesca Cartier Brickell, great-great-greatgranddaughter of legendary jeweler Louis Cartier and author of The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire, recounting how her ancestors transformed a small Parisian store into one of the world’s leading jewelers.

6. Signature ring with 3.19 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k green gold, $22,900, linacaballero designs.com 7. Author-speaker Francesca Cartier Brickell 8. Evolution chains in pink and white gold, $1,950–$3,000 in 14k and $2,750– $4,250 in 18k, bassiitalianjewels.it 9. 18k yellow gold Friday Night earrings with 8 mm–9 mm South Sea pearls, €2,200 ($2,678), alessandradona.com 10. Flora ring with 5.54 cts. t.w. white diamonds in 18k rose gold, $20,400, leopizzo.com/int

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On Saturday, Aug. 28, from 8 to 9:30 a.m., join your fellow jewelers in the Palazzo Ballroom for the JCK ­opening keynote, a thought-provoking panel discussion about what we’ve learned over the past 18 months. What did the ­pandemic teach us about consumers? Which changes are we keeping for good? And where do we see the jewelry ­industry in the next five years? Calling all aspiring futurists—this one’s for you.

NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH When you stroll through the Sands Expo next month, all your favorite JCK neighborhoods—including Bella Italia, Bridal, Currents, Clockwork, Diamond Plaza, Essentials & Tech, First Look, Gems, Hong Kong, Lab-Grown, Passport, Plumb Club, and Retail Innovation—will be there (the show is welcoming back more than 80% of its exhibitors). Note: Gems moves to a new third-floor location and opens one day early, Thursday, Aug. 26, at 9:30 a.m., giving early birds access to notable gems (dealer Evan Caplan’s selection of rarities never fails to enchant).

THE MAIN EVENTS It wouldn’t be Vegas without the marquee events that d ­ efine the show, all of which are on next month’s schedule, beginning with Jewelers for Children’s (JFC) Rings of Strength event Thursday, Aug. 26. Whether you choose to run, bike, or skip, be prepared to start early (kickoff is at 5:30 a.m.!).

You’ll want to block off plenty of time Sunday, Aug. 29, for a host of gatherings, including the Rapaport Breakfast from 8 to 10 a.m. in the Palazzo Ballroom, a Rapaport session on social responsibility from 1 to 4 p.m. in the Titian Ballroom, and JFC’s Facets of Hope gala dinner from 6 to 9 p.m. in the Venetian Ballroom.

Last but not least, the Le Vian Red Carpet Revue 2022 Jewelry Trend Forecast & Fashion Show is Sunday, from 4 to 6 p.m. in the Veronese Ballroom on Level 2. Festivities officially begin at 5:30 p.m., but come early to watch the red-carpet arrivals starting at 4 p.m. Just pace yourself—an after-party at TAO Nightclub is bound to go into the wee hours.

11. Fan earrings with 2.16 cts. t.w. radiant fancy intense yellow diamonds and 6.01 cts. t.w. round white diamonds in 18k white and yellow gold, $70,500, picchiotti.it

12. Embracing Flower ring with white and colored diamonds and central green tourmaline in white gold, price on request, palmierogioielli.com 13. Royal 05 tiara with white Diamond Crystalline in rhodium-plated sterling silver, $1,995, annazuckerman.com

CROWD SOURCE

SARIN BACHMANN, GROUP VICE PRESIDENT O F T H E R X U S A J E W E L R Y G R O U P, O N T H E J C K S H OW ’S N EW T E C H - D R I V E N Y E A R ROUND VISION

Last year at this time, the organizers of the JCK show were in the throes of preparing a virtual event to bring the industry together in the midst of the pandemic. This year, thankfully, they’re busy planning the live event.

But virtual gatherings remain top of mind.

The events of 2020 accelerated JCK’s digital evolution, best represented this year by the debut of Jewelers Source by JCK, an online platform that includes state-of-the-art video conferencing powered by Boss Logics, allowing buyers and vendors to connect 24/7/365.

“JCK has always been where the i­ndustry buys, networks, and celebrates,” says Bachmann. “And now…we are bringing the industry together throughout the year.” —VG What did you learn in 2020, when the JCK show went virtual for the first time?

We wanted to be available to our industry throughout the year, in between face-to-face events and in between being able to see each other at offices and stores. We’ve taken those learnings and turned them into new technology solutions that we’re really excited about.

The launch of JCK Pro in February is one solution. Tell us about that.

JCK Pro is a trend and education resource in partnership with JCK magazine. It’s a

subscription service to gain access to articles

by JCK ’s amazing editorial staff. Through JCK Pro, we’re able to bring information, videos, and different speakers to talk about those trends online throughout the year.

How are you helping retailers with product and vendor discovery online?

One of the things that’s challenging for the jewelry industry is that Zoom doesn’t really do the product justice. So we’ve created Jewelers Source by JCK, a marketplace for the entire jewelry industry, not just exhibitors in our shows. The platform enables a brand to promote products all year long.

How does Jewelers Source work?

You can search for specific products. You can filter by price range or materials or things that are important to you. The meeting technology replicates a face-to-face meeting as close as possible to real life. It allows vendors to push across a virtual tray of jewelry to a retailer on the other side of the meeting.

How does it coexist with the physical show?

As we learned from all the virtual efforts, nothing replaces face-to-face. We see people using it ahead of the show to source product.

And a follow-up tool for after the show.

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T H E S E A R E T H E C AT E G O R I E S , C O L O R S , A N D STONES ON THEIR LUXURY LISTS.

by Amy Elliott

Sign of Life earrings with pearls and turquoise in 18k rose gold, price on request, Tariq Riaz, info@tariqriaz.com, tariqriaz.com; custom ring with 3.6 ct. square emerald-cut gray spinel and white diamonds in 18k white gold, price on request, Color Source Gems, info@colorsourcegems. com, colorsourcegems. com; earrings with 0.91 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $2,250, Luvente, 212-7301003, luvente.com

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Platinum ring with 9.61 ct. paraiba, 3.31 cts. t.w. tourmaline, and 1.22 cts. t.w. diamonds, $280,000, Cicada Jewelry, info@cicadajewelry.com, cicadajewelry.com; rough black opal charms with diamond bails in 14k gold, $1,200 each, Just Jules, julie@justjules.com, justjules.com; Gemma earrings with 7.59 cts. t.w. zircons and opals, 0.41 ct. t.w. diamonds, and freshwater pearls in 18k yellow gold, $5,790, Lauren K, info@laurenk. com, laurenk.com

OU MAY BE feeling giddy with excitement, or even a little anxious, but there’s no question: After a long hiatus, Luxury and JCK are opening Aug. 24 and Aug. 27, respectively, and they’re sure to be historic in every way.

Do you have a shopping strategy in place? When we asked this question of jewelers and retail buyers, we found that many had no agenda other than to walk the show floors with an open mind. Others had a strict checklist of specific colors, stones, and categories.

Quite a few retailers told us they will be using the show as a stock-up opportunity for “pantry staples” such as tennis bracelets and diamond studs. With miles of booths to cover at Luxury and JCK alone, the tunnel-vision approach might be the most ­efficient use of your time and budget, but do try to set aside at least half a day to explore unfamiliar territory.

Otherwise, you might miss the product that becomes your next runaway success story.

If you have no idea where to begin, or fear falling prey to a Supermarket Sweep–style shopping frenzy, consult the notes in these pages before you start hunting.

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“Everything blue is back.

And the 18-to-30 age group seems mesmerized by opals.”

—Tiffany Bayley, Avalon Park Jewelers

FRESH, UNTAPPED TALENT Trade shows have always been ground zero for discovering emerging jewelry artists or collections debuting in the United States. And with in-person trade show platforms all but dormant since the pandemic hit last spring, retailer appetite for picking up new lines is at an all-time high.

“We’ll go over the directory beforehand to see if we can find some things we didn’t know about,” says Paul Schneider, owner of Twist and Twistonline.com in Portland, Ore., and Seattle. “We research the designers, look at their websites and Instagrams, see where they sell, and then sometimes we will make an ­appointment to see their collection in person. We have a whole separate category of ‘Let’s go look anonymously before we introduce ourselves’ and a third category that is ‘Let’s see it if we have time.’ ” Laura Kitsos, owner of Gem Jewelry Boutique in Oak Park, Ill., which carries Liven, Majolie Collections, Gasia, and other fine fashion jewelry lines that tend to exhibit at the JCK show, says she plans to buy “a mix of designers that are typically not overly saturated such as jewelry that is handmade in Istanbul.”

And Melissa Quick, president of Steve Quick Jeweler in Chicago, is similarly on the hunt for new faces. “We really try to avoid tennis bracelets and rivière necklaces and stick with more unusual or fun pieces that aren’t easily shopped around and small-batch, artisanal collections.”

Pro tip: Hit the Design Collective neighborhood and the Greek Pavilion at JCK for newbies galore.

BRIDAL OR BUST Most of the retailers we consulted are hot on the trail for ­engagement rings and wedding bands. Sales of these categories have skyrocketed since the holiday season of 2020, prompting a demand for everything from hefty diamond eternity bands and fancy shapes to new-to-market designer lines.

“Our plan is to first get our basic bridal, but we also want the latest and greatest bridal for our millennial clients,” says Michelle Coon, a sales associate at Alter’s Gem Jewelry in Beaumont, Texas. “We’d love to find a designer that does a ballerina-style halo engagement ring with baguettes.”

For diamond buyer Heather Ingraham at Omaha, Neb.–based Borsheims, it’s all about loose ovals and finished round ­solitaire styles. “I always need more solitaire options,” she says. “They need to be simple and classic but also have a minor detail that makes them different.”

18k yellow gold pendant with 2.26 ct. opal, 0.34 ct. tsavorite, 0.28 ct. t.w. tsavorites, and 0.5 ct. t.w. rose-cut diamonds, $22,000, Omi Privé, 626-3314533, omiprive.com; Teardrop Mandala earrings in oxidized sterling silver and 18k yellow gold with 0.2 ct. t.w. diamond melee, $2,850, Belle

Brooke, 505-7805270, bellebrooke.net; diamond ballerina ring in 14k white gold, $3,300 (without center stone), Fana, 800-433-0012, fana jewelry.com; Celestia Ship’s Wheel 18k yellow gold and diamond medallion, $4,950, Doves by Doron Paloma, 888-663-6837, dovesjewelry.com

Centurion Scottsdale Salon 612 Luxury and JCK Show Las Vegas Salon Lux 313

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EARRINGS, EARRINGS, EARRINGS As long as Zoom remains the meeting venue of choice, abovethe-neck jewelry will be a hot ticket. As such, this year many retailer shopping lists continue to place mix-and-match single stud earrings, bolder studs or midi-length styles, and ear cuffs in the priority column. Meanwhile, getting vaccinated against COVID-19 means having the freedom to step out and socialize.

For many buyers, statement earring styles are in order.

“PRIMARY” COLORS Which hues are coming in first on buyers’ lists? Suppliers are championing the charms of gray spinel, and jewelers are paying attention. “That stone is fire,” says Tiffany Bayley, owner of Avalon Park Jewelers in Orlando, Fla. “This year’s Pantone color, Ultimate Gray, is everywhere we look, from furniture to fashion.

I will definitely be on the hunt for some gray spinel in every shade, shape, and size.”

Bayley also has shades of blue on the brain, from sapphires to aquas and turquoise. “The royal family has dominated the news recently, and so has their jewelry,” she says. “Everything blue is back. And the 18-to-30 age group seems mesmerized by opals.

Small oval opals have been huge sellers, so I will definitely be stocking up on these beauties.”

Movál solitaire with 3.61 ct. diamond in 18k white gold; $120,000; Rahaminov Diamonds; 213-6229866; rahaminov.com Earrings with 0.91 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $2,250; Luvente; 212-730-1003; luvente.com

Can’t-Miss Styles

JCK editors will keep you abreast of emerging trends year-round, but which ones should you be investing in at this precise moment? A buyer’s perspective is the best barometer (and ask your customers what they’re craving). Here are five trending styles we heard a lot about in our reporting.

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Pearls “We’re definitely noticing a boosted sentimentality among shoppers, many of whom love giving pearls,” says Camile Hannoush, president of Connecticut-based Michaels Jewelers. (Secret Date earrings with black South Sea pearls and green amethysts in 18k rose gold; €2,725 [$3,336]; Alessandra Donà; 914-2890206; alessandradona.com)

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Protective Talismans “Now, more than ever, the idea surrounding an overall protection of health, family, and community resonates deeply while shopping for something as personal as fine jewelry,” says Michelle Pendleton, owner of Pendleton Jewelry in Kansas City, Kan. (Ceres pendant with diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $5,050; Dorian & Rose; dorian@dorianandrose.com)

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Petite Rivière Necklaces “We like a messy stack with a shorter, 16- to 18-inch necklace that could be with diamonds or with precious and semiprecious stones,” says Amy Lane, jewelry buyer at Bergdorf Goodman in New York City. (Necklace with 1.28 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $3,390; Shy Creation; info@shycreation. com; shycreation.com)

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Bright Colors “We’re seeing a lot more colors—vivid, clean colors like enamels,” Paul Schneider, owner of Twist and Twistonline. com, told JCK earlier this year. “People are not afraid to buy gold with enamel. That’s huge.” (3-Diamond Stack rings in enamel with 0.05 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k gold; $595 each; EF Collection; 323-9526065; efcollection.com)

5

Bold Gold “I am seeing a resurgence in yellow gold—I think the rose gold moment has passed,” says Paula Kogan, senior buyer of bridal and fine jewelry for Watches of Switzerland Group, which owns Mayors.

(14k matte-finished yellow gold leaf earrings with 0.44 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,050; Marika Desert Gold; 216-759-7569; marikadesertgold.com)

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SUMMER 2021

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580 Fifth Avenue | Suite#1610 | New York, NY - 10036 Cell: +1 (732) 604 2222 | Phone: +1 (212) 221 4400 | Email: labgrown@diamspark.com

LAB-GROWN 151

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(P. 149) PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON KIM; HAIR: SUHAILAH WALI USING CTRL EDGE TAMER BY STEPHEN HUDSON; MAKEUP: DEANNA HAGAN USING CHANEL BEAUTY/STATEMENT ARTISTS; STYLIST: DANIEL EDLEY/WALTER SCHUPFER; SYNTHESIS 18K FAIRMINED WHITE GOLD EARRINGS WITH 5.39 CTS. T.W. LAB-GROWN CARBON-NEGATIVE DIAMONDS, $39,898, AETHER, HUMAN@AETHERDIAMONDS.COM; AETHERDIAMONDS.COM

THE

PRI C EE YOU PAY THE LAB-GROWN MARKET IS BIGGER THAN EVER. SO WHY DO CONSUMER COSTS CONTINUE TO FALL?

by Rob Bates

2

CONOMISTS SAY THAT the price of a good is ruled by two things: supply and demand.

Lab-grown diamonds may prove an exception to that rule. Their sales are on the upswing. And while supply has also jumped, growers say they can barely create enough to keep up with exploding demand.

Yet prices are falling—dramatically. In 2017, one diamond grower listed its goods at 55 below Rap (the percentage off the per-carat price of diamonds on the Rapaport Price List). Last year, some lab-growns sold for 85 below. This year, they even hit 90. “What’s lower than that?” joked one veteran. “100%?”

Pranay Narvekar, founder of Pharos Beam Consulting, believes the lab-grown market will eventually transition to a cost-plus model. “Why do they still talk about it as ‘off Rap’— that is ridiculous,” Narvekar says. “Just put a price to it.”

Retail has seen similar drops. On online portal Rare Carat, some smaller gems sell for less than the $800 a carat that De Beers Group charges for its Lightbox brand, a once-shocking benchmark that initially caused a furor.

According to diamond industry analyst Paul Zimnisky, in the second quarter of 2016 the average online price for an F–H, VS-clarity 1 ct. round lab-grown diamond was $10,300. Five years later, a gem with the same specs saw its price drop by nearly two-thirds—to $3,975.

By contrast, a similar mined gem sold for $12,375 online in the second quarter of 2016, and $12,550 in the second quarter of 2021.

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Analysts point to many reasons behind these price declines, including increased competition, initially inflated margins, and the seemingly immutable law that tech items become cheaper to produce over time. “Of course, their price is going to go down; it’s a manufactured product,” says Zimnisky, who thinks growers are in part driving the decline.

“The big money pot for these producers is hightech applications,” he says. “The semiconductor industry is five times the size of the jewelry industry.

To cater to that industry, they need consistent production, they need to scale production, and they need to get the price low. As the price of the high-tech production falls, that will happen to the jewelry market as well.”

Even lab-grown sellers agree—to a point.

“I think prices are going to drop,” says Karan Brahmbhatt, a former tech executive who recently founded the lab-grown e-tailer Brilliant Carbon. “But $500 to $800 a carat is probably about the floor. Otherwise, you are not covering your expenses. You still have to pay for cutting and polishing.”

Brahmbhatt sees the affordable price points as a positive.

“We’re democratizing diamonds. We have customers who can buy a 1.5 carat diamond for $2,300. It’s an exciting story.”

Lindsay Reinsmith, cofounder of Ada Diamonds in San Francisco, contends that the sector is bound to split in two.

“There’s a subset of the market that have an appearance equivalent to high-quality naturals,” she says. “But the quality of a lot of the other goods has really degraded. It’s like there’s gorgeous versus garbage. With little in between.”

Reinsmith says the price of top-notch goods (which Ada specializes in) has mostly held up, if only because there are so few of them. “We’re selling them for the same price we did in 2019,” she says.

Unlike diamond miners, growers can, at least in theory, produce as much as they want, whenever they want. But cooking up high-quality diamonds takes longer, and costs more, than cranking out low-quality gunk. As a result, the market is flooded with substandard goods, which are marred by blue, gray, and yellow tinges—caused by high-pressure treatments, added chemicals such as boron, and reused cheap seeds.

1. Allure ring with 3.09 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 18k white gold, $5,275, Glam ring with 2.05 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 18k white gold, $4,150, altr.nyc 2. 1 ct. lab-grown blue round brilliant diamond Octagon ring in 10k gold, $1,200, lightboxjewelry.com 3. 1 ct. t.w. lab-grown white round brilliant diamond Octagon earrings in 10k yellow gold, $1,100, lightboxjewelry.com 4. Round classic four-prong solitaire in 14k yellow gold with 2.5 ct. round brilliant lab-grown diamond, $15,000, adadiamonds.com 5. 1 ct. lab-grown pink round brilliant diamond Octagon pendant in 10k gold, $900, lightboxjewelry.com 6. Emerald petite four-prong solitaire in platinum with 3 ct. emerald-cut lab-grown diamond, $18,000, adadiamonds.com

6

Reinsmith says the worst material is often sold online.

“You couldn’t sell them in person,” she says. “The most extreme ones don’t even look like a natural diamond.”

The problem for selective buyers like Reinsmith is these tinges—which sometimes show up in natural diamonds—can appear in goods with top color and clarity grades. This means there’s no way to screen them in advance. “I have never bought a labgrown diamond sight unseen,” she says, adding that if the general output doesn’t improve, there could be a “huge day of reckoning for the lab-grown industry.

“It’s hard to find nice-quality goods,” Reinsmith says.

“If I had to guess, that’s the No. 1 reason that an LVMH brand has not stepped in [to the lab-grown market]. There are not enough nice goods available.”

Amish Shah, president of ALTR Created Diamonds, feels the price drop has been fueled by the same problems that have long plagued the natural market: a lack of differentiation, aggressive price competition, and weak branding.

“This is an industry with a herd mentality,” Shah says. “If John is doing lab-grown, Jerry will do lab-grown, except Jerry will try to do it for $100 cheaper. The diamond industry has always thought that the way you make money is to lower prices and then make it up on volume.”

This nonstop undercutting has slashed lab-grown margins—which, Shah admits, were originally “absurd.” (They still top those for naturals, he says.) “If you just keep screaming that ‘I have a bigger diamond for less money,’ where does that get you?” he asks. “It becomes a rat race.”

Shah believes the sector has a huge opportunity in the under-$1,000 demi-fine market. That’s the white space targeted by Lightbox as well as Pandora, which just introduced a lab-grown line in the United Kingdom.

It’s a huge, enticing market, one in which diamonds have not traditionally played. But it requires companies to sell more than “just crystal,” Shah warns. “The industry needs to evolve,” he says. “You either add value or you become a commodity. It doesn’t matter if it’s mined or lab-grown. The people who will win are the ones who will focus on marketing, branding, and a story.”

A PRIME Manufacturer of LAB GROWN DIAMONDS GCAL or IGI Certified - No risk memo program - Free shipping and returns Rounds & Fancies up to 5 carats D to I, VVS1- I1 Thousands of stones updated daily at QGold.com/StoneFinder Talk to a diamond expert today: 1-866-228-0099 or email us at LGD@QGold.com

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STATEMENT PIECES 3

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1.

Lark & Berry x Diamond Foundry Supernova necklace with 64.5 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 18k white gold, price on request, larkandberry.com 2.

Love Heart Cascade earrings with lab-grown simulated pink, canary, and white diamonds in 18k white gold and rhodium vermeil, £1,790 ($2,537), anabelachan.com

3.

Millennial-style lab-grown halo ring in 14k gold, $1,233 (without center stone), overnightmountings.com 4.

Vrai x RandM Illuminate bracelet with 19 cts. t.w. lab-grown lozenge, hexagon, half-moon, marquise, round brilliant, and baguette diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $38,000, vrai.com

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5

5.

Vrai x RandM Illuminate hoops with 18.3 cts. t.w. lab-grown emerald, marquise, round brilliant, and lozenge diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $30,500, vrai.com 6.

Omnis hoop earrings with 0.36 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $4,675, larkandberry.com 7.

Sparkle hoops with 1 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 14k white gold, $2,419, smilingrocks.com

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8

8.

Small lab-grown pavé diamond hoops in 14k white gold, $1,740, overnightmountings.com

HOOP EARRINGS

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35 mm inside-out hoops in 14k yellow gold with 3.3 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds, $4,596, overnightmountings.com

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ENGAGEMENT RINGS 11

10.

Floral-inspired ring in 14k white gold with lab-grown melee and 0.5 ct. lab-grown diamond center, $2,400, overnightmountings.com 13

11.

Smiling Brides 14k white gold splitshank ring with 2 ct. cushion-cut lab-grown diamond center and labgrown pink and blue diamond brand mark, $8,949, smilingrocks.com 12.

Horizon Offset ring with 2.08 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 18k Fairmined gold, $17,898, aetherdiamonds.com 13.

2.5 ct. lab-grown solitaire diamond engagement rings in 14k white gold, $9,950 each, altr.nyc

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14.

14k yellow gold 0.5 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamond V ring, $1,405, stuller.com

FASHION RINGS

15.

Omnis flat-top ring with 0.36 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 18k white gold, $2,660, larkandberry.com 16.

Remi ring with 0.2 ct. t.w. lab-grown brilliant-cut diamonds in recycled 18k rose gold, $475, kimai.com 17.

Vrai x RandM 14k yellow gold Contract ring with 0.5 ct. t.w. lab-grown half-moon diamonds, $4,400, vrai.com 18.

Stackable band with bezel-set labgrown diamonds in 14k rose gold, $2,040, overnightmountings.com

18

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SUMMER 2021

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault

FRAME JOB

GRACE NOTES

Every stone in the piece is bezel-set in 18k white gold. “We like the way the bezel setting forms a metallic frame around the rough, highlighting its raw and organic beauty,” says Assimon.

Each bezel setting, she adds, “can take anywhere up to six hours for a single rough.”

Not pictured is a detachable diamond line necklace composed of 144 diamonds (mostly white round brilliants).

The piece recently sold, but can be re-created.

“The beauty of this medallion is that it can be worn in multiple ways,” says Assimon.

Even as a brooch!

SHIELD OF DREAMS

MEDALLION WINNER In addition to 66 white and 28 pink round brilliants, the medallion mixes in eight pink rough and 16 fancy yellow, brown, and green rough diamonds— plus a 1.19 ct. fancy yellow rough center. “The magnificent selection of rough diamonds…reflects the untamed character of the Okavango,” explains Assimon, “contrasting with graduating round brilliant white diamonds, suggestive of water.”

THE BEAUTY OF Botswana—more specifically, the lush, wildlife-rich Okavango Delta (a popular safari destination)—is the inspiration behind De Beers’ Okavango Grace medallion, part of Reflections of Nature, a 39-piece, five-set high jewelry collection that pays homage to De Beers’ diamond-producing countries. “A maze of waterways, flood plains, and islands, set among verdant vegetation, the Okavango Delta is an oasis,” says Céline Assimon, CEO of De Beers Jewellers. “We wanted the design of Okavango Grace to echo the tall, slender reeds that stud the water and sway in the breeze.” A carefully chosen blend of rough and polished diamonds turned the vision into a reality: “a contemporary piece with the aura of an ancient amulet.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO JCKONLINE.COM

THE VAULT

COLORED STONES

164

14k rose gold Kintsugi earrings with kogolong; $18,400; Pomellato; info@ pomellato.com; pomellato.com

Perfectly Imperfect ring in 14k yellow gold with 7.91 ct. blue sapphire and diamonds; price on request; Jennifer Dawes Design; 888-802-0880; dawes-design.com

Golden Joinery malachite and diamond necklace in oxidized sterling and 22k gold; $1,895; Jamie Joseph; info@jamiejoseph; jamiejoseph.com

TREND GAME

FLAW & ORDER PERFECTION HAS ITS place.

But it’s the beauty of imperfection— and rejuvenation—that inspired one of 2021’s most distinctive jewelry trends: kintsugi. The ancient Japanese art is the practice of mending broken gemstones (or, more commonly, ceramics) using a fast-drying lacquer that leaves behind meandering gold seams. Pomellato, Jennifer Dawes Design, and Jamie Joseph are among the modern jewelers that have recently embraced the art, which dates back to the 15th century. Vincenzo Castaldo, Pomellato’s creative director, says the aim of the brand’s Kintsugi series was “not to create perfection, but a very individual and spontaneous result.

Each jewel is truly one of a kind, and this to me is the real essence of preciousness.” —EMILI VESILIND

Golden Joinery aquamarine and diamond prong earrings in 22k gold; $2,015; Jamie Joseph

Fault Line ring in 14k yellow gold with 3.5 ct. boulder opal and diamonds; price on request; Jennifer Dawes Design

MELLOW YELLOW Looking for a way to introduce your clients to Illuminating, the sun-soaked shade Pantone selected as one of its 2021 Colors of the Year? The buzzworthy Honeycomb collection from Artistry is sure to allay any I-can’t-wear-yellow fears. We’re practically hypnotized by the prismatic hexagon-shape citrine—not to mention the sweet golden hue. Plus, the warm 14k yellow gold looks good on virtually any skin tone. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Honeycomb ring in 14k yellow gold with 1.32 ct. citrine and 0.22 ct. t.w. diamond halo; $1,525; artistrylimited.com SUMMER 2021

HOT STOCK TIP Honeycomb necklace in 14k yellow gold with 3.57 ct. citrine and 0.29 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,775

ZEEMOU ZENG’S PASSION FOR PERIDOT! SEE jckonline.com/topics/coloredstones FOR THAT AND MORE.

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THE VAULT

BRIDAL

166

HOT STOCK TIP

East-West Marquise Agra ring with 1.35 ct. light blue sapphire; $6,715

Half Moon Crown ring with Australian opal and 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,780

Three Fancy Greens ring with Montana kite-shape and Australian round brilliant and emeraldcut green sapphires with 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,885

Tiered Steps ring with 2.2 ct. emerald-cut diamond and 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds; $17,825; Dana Bronfman; hello@ danabronfman.com; danabronfman.com

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

FAIR & LOVELY

ALTERNATIVE ENERGY Emerald and hammered gold eternity band with 1.2 cts. t.w. cushion- and emerald-cut Muzo emeralds; $3,480

DANA BRONFMAN’S FIRST-EVER wedding jewelry collection puts a pleasingly quirky spin on classic bridal styles. The new series is elegant, but also popping with eccentric details—think bands with tiny round cutouts and scattered gypsy-set diamonds. Plus, the line exclusively features eco-conscious materials including Fairmined-certified gold, vintage and antique diamonds and sapphires, contemporary sapphires from Montana and Australia, and Muzo Colombian emeralds. Every piece in the collection is one of a kind and can be customized with heirloom or freshly sourced stones. The collection “not only further develops my style while staying true to my values,” Bronfman says. “It also introduces something innovative to the bridal market.” —EMILI VESILIND SUMMER 2021

We’ve got nothing against diamond engagement rings. (Don’t miss the dazzlers showcased in “Queen of Denim & Diamonds” on pages 110–117.) But it’s hard to deny the appeal, and affordability, of colored center stones. This regal Juno ring—named for the goddess of marriage—by Seattle-based designer Valerie Madison ticks all the bridal boxes: wearability, thanks to its low profile; durability, owing to the purple sapphire; and, of course, sheer beauty. Come to think of it… who needs a proposal? It would work on any finger. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO 0.6 ct. Juno half-moon purple sapphire engagement ring with 0.075 ct. t.w. brilliantcut diamonds in recycled 14k gold; $1,570; valeriemadison.com

HANCOCKS LONDON RENTING OUT TIARAS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/bridal FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME

As with other social media platforms, you have a profile. The main dashboard (aka “hallway”) has suggestions for skills, interests, etc., that you can explore; you can search for other users, topics, “clubs” (groups), or “rooms” (events, such as scheduled talks). The format is a kind of hybrid podcast and telephone party line.

HOW TO EXPLORE

SOUND ADVICE

C

SOPA IMAGES/LIGHTROCKET/GETTY

Why some of the industry’s top trendspotters say you need to get on Clubhouse

BY MARTHA C. WHITE

LUBHOUSE, AN AUDIO-ONLY app that debuted in March 2020 and is now the hottest new entrant to social media, raises the question: Why would a jeweler want to be on a platform where there’s literally nothing to see? It might not seem like a natural fit, but Clubhouse could be a secret weapon for cultivating a brand image, collaborating with like-minded professionals, and communicating with CEOs, customers, and everyone in between.

That Clubhouse is ­invitation-only just enhances its appeal, says Allen ­Adamson, cofounder of marketing consultancy Metaforce. “It’s like getting into a hot club.” (Though on May 30, a

Clubhouse tweet announced a “general release sometime this summer.”)

Clubhouse is perhaps the quin­ tessential pandemic app: The loose, talk radio–style format gave users an immediacy lacking during lockdown.

Its multicultural, borderless reach let people make global connections when they couldn’t travel. And with many reduced to videoconferencing for work, the audio-only format is a welcome respite from omnipresent screens.

“You can passively listen like a podcast, or you can actively listen without having to perform,” says Ama McKinley, founder and designer at Ilium Wing in Atlanta and creator of The Atelier, a Clubhouse jewelry conversation space.

HOW TO START Clubhouse can be downloaded for free from Apple’s app store. You’ll need a device that runs iOS 13.0 or later (i.e., a newish iPhone, iPad, or iPod) and, at press time, an invite from someone already on the app. In May, Clubhouse rolled out an Android version (compatible with devices running 7.0 and up).

JCKONLINE.COM

Look at who’s chatting in spaces like The Atelier, and check their profiles to see who and what they follow. And check accounts you follow elsewhere, says Laetitia Hirschy, founder of Kaaviar PR and cofounder of the women’s timepiece community Watch Femme.

“I find my rooms through other social media networks or through the clubs I follow or the people I follow,” she says.

It’s not just jewelry; watches are a hot topic on Clubhouse as well. “IWC has done really well. They have weekly sessions called ‘The Things That Make Us Tick,’ and the CEO participates,” Hirschy says. “This is very beneficial to brands because they get to speak ­directly to consumers and collectors.”

Says Jennifer Gandia, co-owner of Greenwich St. Jewelers in New York City, “I’m trying to jump into rooms that have interesting topics and watching how the conversation just flows.”

WHY YOU SHOULD JOIN “It gives people an opportunity to have conversations. That’s very different from other social media options, which are basically pushing out a message that’s already curated,” Gandia says.

A Clubhouse room is, by nature, freeflowing and sometimes unpredictable.

“So much work and inspiration goes into creating a piece or a collection of jewelry or a watch. There’s always tons to talk about,” Hirschy says.

“It’s the one place you can be a jeweler conferring with another jeweler, and it’s not a push for sales,” McKinley says. “It’s just a place to have fun.”

Tool Time

170

‌THE GOODS The standard Fitbit Luxe comes in four colorways: black, orchid, peony, and white.

The special-edition Fitbit Luxe with gold stainless steel Parker Link bracelet

by Gorjana ($199.95)

Sold separately: a double-wrap leather bracelet in black, gray, or sunrise (pictured) for $49.95

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

FITBIT LUXE Fitbit’s understated, affordable tracker bracelets have become as ubiquitous as the Apple Watch—the best-selling ­wearable in the United States—in recent years. Celebs including Sarah ­Jessica Parker and Gwyneth Paltrow wear Fitbit bands, and so does your chatty neighbor and favorite bank teller (just ­guessing, but it’s likely). Now the brand has debuted an ­elevated heir apparent to its popular, recently discontinued Alta trackers. Released in May, the Fitbit Luxe lets you track your fitness, sleep, and exercise, yes, but it was also designed to help you manage stress, which affects overall health. —EMILI VESILIND

What it does: Luxe boasts all the health-tracking capabilities of past Fitbit bands, but it also feeds you a daily stress management score, an assessment of your body’s ability to handle stress based on your activity levels, sleep, and heart rate. Then, through the app, the device dispenses advice for curbing stressors. It’s a savvy addition—more than a year into the pandemic, who couldn’t use some stress mitigation?

What we liked: With its soft beveled edges and full-color touch screen, Luxe feels better built and more fashion-forward than its predecessors. It’s also available with bracelets that elevate the classic rubber strap. Choices include low-profile colored metal mesh bands and a bona fide jewelry option: a stainless steel link bracelet designed by Laguna Beach, Calif.–based brand Gorjana.

Best feature: Fitbit Luxe runs on the brand’s Premium app, which gives you access to a range of workouts and nearly 200 mindfulness sessions, including Deepak Chopra’s Mindful Method, an exclusive wellness collection designed to make mindfulness practice more accessible. Om, we’ll take it! ($149.95 including six months of Fitbit Premium, which is available for $9.99 a month after that; fitbit.com)

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

NSK SHEENUS ZERO ULTRASONIC POLISHER

NSK’s latest polisher includes a precision handpiece that’s both lightweight and ergonomically designed (in short, it’s comfy).

SUMMER 2021

The new NSK Sheenus Zero Ultrasonic Polisher from Stuller can be used for grinding, polishing, and mirror-finishing a wide range of materials, from aluminum and cemented carbide dies to plastic molds and ceramics.

The beefy, no-frills bench helper removes hard layers of EDM (electrical discharge machining) deposits and polishes hard-to-reach areas. The Sheenus Zero features a power-level indicator, two-mode display selection, easy-touch function switches, and constant-output power—with a maximum output of 19–29 kilohertz—all to help you shine on with ease, for years to come. ($3,899; stuller.com) —EV

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VISIT LASVEGAS.JCKONLINE.COM FOR DETAILS.

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A JCK PRO SUBSCRIPTION IS YOUR EXCLUSIVE, ALL-ACCESS PASS TO THE PEOPLE AND RESOURCES ON THE CUTTING EDGE OF THE RETAIL JEWELRY INDUSTRY THAT WILL EVOLVE YOUR CAREER AND BUSINESS YEAR-ROUND. JCK PROS DISCOVER IT FIRST – THROUGH EXCLUSIVE JCK MAGAZINE ARTICLES, EXPERT VIDEOS, AND VIP PERKS ONSITE AT THE JCK SHOW. JCK PRO IS OPEN TO ALL JEWELRY PROFESSIONALS AND ENTHUSIASTS. VISIT JCKONLINE.COM/PRO FOR DETAILS.

PRODUCT

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Arch Crown Inc. Nicole Barr 6512 Six Forks Road, Suite 303 Raleigh, NC 27615 Tel: 877-810-7312 Fax: 919-846-3705 Email: us-info@nicolebarr.com Website: nicolebarr.com Nicole Barr’s 40 years’ experience as master enamelists in 18k gold and sterling silver brings the timelessness of nature and contemporary designs to life in high-quality fired enamel.

DA Gold 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-819-1111 Fax: 212-730-5706 Email: da@dagoldproducts.com Website: dagoldproducts.com

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Poly-Lam Thermal Transfer Computer Tags. Tag your merchandise with Arch Crown computer tags. Poly-Lam material has superior print durability and can withstand ultrasonic cleaning; text and bar code will not rub off. Clear-Tail tags available in gold, silver, and white. JCK Las Vegas Booth 52033

Settu Doshi Inc. / J B Brothers USA 550 S. Hill St., Suite 1565 Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel: 213-489-3020 Fax: 213-489-3097 Email: hello@setuu.live Website: www.setuu.live

Showcased here is one of our new elegant and artful designs. Crafted in 18k Italian gold, these cuffs are enhanced with 0.5 ct. t.w. sparkling diamonds. Dress them up or dress them down—they look good either way!

This ruby and diamond bracelet gives a glimpse of our new Cercle collection launching at Luxury 2021. Designers of fine jewelry and a trusted name in natural diamonds, we specialize in fine solitaires in all shapes, and in white, fancy colors.

Stuller Inc.

Lika Behar Collection

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

80 Triangle Blvd.

Carlstadt, NJ 07072 Tel: 201-933-7200, ext. 1 Fax: 201-933-2700 Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Website: likabehar.com

Discover the many facets of Stuller’s vast inventory of loose stones: lab-grown, natural, and specialty diamonds; cultured pearls; lab-grown moissanite; and imitation, lab-grown, natural, and one-of-a-kind colored gemstones.

Learn more at stuller.com/diamonds and stuller.com/gemstones.

Award-winning designer Lika Behar creates unique works of wearable art inspired by ancient civilizations and the Mediterranean.

Her hand-wrought individual designs reflect ancient history as well as the modern feminine spirit.

JCKONLINE.COM

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Royal Chain Group up 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-9060 n.com Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com

Phillip Gavriel 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-9060 Email: info@phillipgavriel.com Website: phillipgavriel.com

From our 2021 gold lineup, this bangle from the Hardware collection includes turquoise and .05 ct. t.w. diamonds. Also available in plain gold and onyx. MSRP: $1,800

These initial pendants from the Popcorn series feature sterling silver, 18k gold, and .05 ct. t.w. diamonds, and include an adjustable 20inch paperclip chain. All 26 letters are available through Royal Chain.

MSRP: $250

Alex Velvet Inc.

Charles & Colvard

3334 Eagle Rock Blvd.

Los Angeles, CA 90065 Tel: 323-255-6900 Fax: 323-255-6934 Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Website: alexvelvetusa.com

170 Southport Drive Morrisville, NC 27560 Tel: 800-210-4367 Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Website: cahrlesandcolvard.com

Alex Velvet presents the new Floral collection. You can highlight your windows with seasonal colors.

Forever One™ is the finest of all created moissanite. Each gemstone is exquisitely cut and faceted to maximize the fire and brilliance, offering your customers a luxurious product at an accessible price point.

Pompos Jewelry Corp.

Shy Creation

Los Angeles, CA Tel: 213-624-1441 Email: quality@pomposjewelry.com Website: pomposjewelry.com

631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com

As second-generation manufacturers of fine jewelry, an unrivaled quality of craftsmanship and attention to details are our legacy. We carry an exceptional selection of finished jewelry catering to the high-end market and offer jewelry manufacturing to retailers.

SUMMER 2021

Shy Creation’s graduated diamond bezel tennis bracelet is a sleek, modern update on a fine jewelry classic. Discover more fashion-forward diamond designs at shycreation.com.

JCKONLINE.COM

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Midas 151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com Meet Midas’ most customizable pre-built collection at the JCK show.

Start with a split chain and push lock as your foundation, then layer additional push locks and engravable charms for a one-of-a-kind look. MSRP for set: $3,390

Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com AXIS™ wedding bands are Stuller’s curated line of machined designer bands. Precision-built with the strength to last, AXIS bands stand out as works of art for the confident and committed man. Learn more at stuller.com/axis.

RDI Diamonds 2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-3391 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com/contact-us What makes Rare & Forever® diamonds unique? They’re all graded by the most advanced artificial intelligence technology on Earth. Every diamond has benefited from a rigorous screening process, offering customers attainable luxury in the most highly demanded design styles available today.

Zina Sterling Silver 3268 Motor Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90034 Tel: 310-286-2212 Email: zina925@zinasterling.com Website: zinasterling.com A third-generation family owned and operated business for over 35 years, we specialize in really cool sterling silver and gold jewelry. Great designs and a great company to do business with. Custom work too!

J-Box by Turkish Jewellery Exporters’ Association Dış Ticaret Kompleksi A Blok Kat:3 Çobançeşme mevkii, 34197 Bahçelievler/ Istanbul, 34197, Turkey Tel: 90-212-454-0000 Email: info@jtr.org.tr Website: turkishjewellery.org Companies can showcase and present their products live to buyers in HD quality with 100% clarity with J-Box. Showcase all of your collections, and let buyers inspect items down to their finest details as if they were next to them.

JCKONLINE.COM

Effy Jewelry New York, NY Tel: 212-944-0020 Website: effyjewelry.com Stack on style with this 14k yellow gold eternity band by Effy Jewelry.

Over 8 cts. t.w. baguette-cut amethysts join together in a perfect loop and create 360 degrees of uninterrupted sparkle. Mix and match with other bands for an effortless, polished look.

SUMMER 2021

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TurkishJewellery.Org by Turkish Jewellery Exporters’ Association Zen Diamond 301 State Route 17, Suite 800 Rutherford, NJ 07070 Tel: 201-842-7698 Fax: 201-842-7618 Email: usa@zendiamond.com Discover our elegantly designed Cuban-link diamond necklace. Perfect for any occasion or daily wearing. JCK Las Vegas Booth 49048

Dış Ticaret Kompleksi A Blok Kat:3 Çobançeşme mevkii, 34197 Bahçelievler/ Istanbul, 34197, Turkey Tel: 90-212-454-0000 Email: info@jtr.org.tr Website: turkishjewellery.org The most extensive business-to-business jewelry platform features more than 20,000 pieces of jewelry with professional photos and 360 videos from 92 jewelry manufacturers. Discover the best manufacturers of gold, diamond, and silver jewelry; mounting; and wedding rings.

Royal India / RIU Jewels / Aresa New York 10 W. 46th St., 19th Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-616-7661 Fax: 212-616-7666 Email: ınfo@royalindiausa.com; info@aresanewyork.com Website: riujewels.com; aresanewyork.com RIU Jewels designs are 18k gold, characterized by timeless, wearable, and innovative use of color and movement. Most of the items are handmade/ one of a kind. In summer 2021, RIU introduced the Eclipse collection.

The collection represents what happens when two worlds collide.

Schofer Germany: The Chain Company Freiburger Strasse 3 75179 Pforzheim, Germany Tel: 49-7231-91030 Fax: 49-7231-101599 Email: info@schofer.com Website: schofer.com At the cutting edge: Pantone Illuminating and Ultimate Gray.

Whether in a soft ombré color gradient or plain—the acrylic varnish with high abrasion resistance ensures long-lasting joy on stainless steel, silver, and gold.

SUMMER 2021

Sylvie Collection Plano, TX 75204 Tel: 214-472-9999 Email: info@sylviecollection.com Website: sylviecollection.com This unique bezel-set engagement ring features 0.32 ct. t.w. round diamonds and two pear-shape diamonds on each side, creating a unique tapered shank. The center stone is a 1.5 ct. round diamond.

Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Help customers create a personalized look with the new 302® Fine Jewelry collection: Charm School™.

This assortment provides a variety of options to create styles that are unique and versatile. Learn more at stuller.com/302finejewelry.

JCKONLINE.COM

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RDI Diamonds 2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-3391 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com/contact-us You Me We® is not a traditional stock program. We provide a flexible program of top sellers that allows you to offer your clients consistent, superior diamonds in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and price points with a no-risk 100% sell-through guarantee.

Gabriel & Co 545 W. 45th St., Third Floor New York, NY 10036 Phone: 212-519-1400 Email: lverona@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Discover the iconic Bujukan collection inspired by the Balinese art of persuasion.

Delicate, yet fresh and fun, it’s the perfect gift or self-purchase and might just be the start of a new love affair! Shop online or find a retail store near you at gabrielny.com.

Jye’s International Inc. 1633 Bayshore Highway, Suite 136 Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com Shown here: one of Jye’s most excellent pieces—an 18k white gold ring with diamonds stemming on fine yellow gold leaves.

Le Vian® 235 Great Neck Road Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 516-466-7202 Fax: 516-466-7292 Email: jonathan@levian.com Website: levian.com Le Vian® AVERY. Sweet couture confections from the Le Vian Platinum Collection™. Natural fancy-color SI1-2 Chocolate Diamonds® 2.5 ct. center-stone ring flanked by 1.21 cts. t.w. heart-shape and round G-H, VS-SI Vanilla Diamonds® with Strawberry Gold®.

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. Jewelers Mutual® Group 24 Jewelers Park Drive Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 833-970-9464 Email: zing@jminsure.com Website: zing.jewelersmutual.com The Zing® platform features products from Jewelers Mutual and other industry leaders in an easy-to-use dashboard. It’s free to access and open to everyone in the industry, even if you aren’t a policyholder.

JCKONLINE.COM

10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com R & P has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.

SUMMER 2021

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ADVERTISING

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INDEX Alex Velvet pg. 53 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900

Marisa Perry Atelier 636 Hudson St. New York, NY 10014 Tel: 212-566-8977 Email: sales@marisaperry.com Website: marisaperry.com Marisa Perry Atelier is a jewelry design house and retail boutique located in New York City’s West Village. We specialize in bridal jewelry, including engagement rings, wedding bands, and other custom-crafted pieces.

Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Stuller’s ever&ever® is a complete bridal program featuring high-quality, customizable prototype rings—each a flexible 3C design. The program helps you sell to every customer and deliver an unforgettable customization experience. Learn more at stuller.com/everandever.

Almor Design, Heskia pg. 16-17 Website: almordesign.com Email: info@almordesign.com Toll-Free: 800-437-5421 Alrosa USA pg. 12-13 Website: alrosa.ru Email: FoersterR@usa.alrosa.ru Phone: 212-921-4300 Amden Jewelry pg. 144-145 Website: amdeninc.com Phone: 213-327-0863 Fax: 213-327-0865 Arpas Gold Jewellery pg. 46 Website: arpas.com Email: info@arpasusa.com Phone: 212-869-5548 Berkley Asset Protection pg. 171 Website: berkleyassetpro.com Email: mbecker@berkleyassetpro.com Phone: 212-922-0659 Fax: 212-922-0659 Bhanderi Lab Grown Diamonds Inc. pg. 159 Website: blgd.in Email: usa@blgd.in Phone: 212-278-0905 Blue Star Gems NY LLC pg. 43 Website: Bluestargemsnyllc.com Email: bluestargemsny@gmail.com Phone: 929-526-8280

Color Jewels / Cirari 36 W. 44th St., Ninth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488 Email: fmarkfunk@colorjewels.net Website: cirari.com As a leading prime manufacturer, Cirari builds the goods before you order them. We know what you want because we listened to you.

Diamond goods are $200–$200,000, and our color merchandise is $100–$100,000. Merchandise in stock now!

SUMMER 2021

Charles & Colvard pg. 4-5 Website: charlesandcolvard.com Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Toll-Free: 800-210-4367 Color Jewels / Cirari pg. 14-15 Website: cirari.com Email: info@cirari.com Phone: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488

DA Gold pg. 143 Website: dagoldproducts.com Email: da@dagoldproducts.com Phone: 212-819-1111 Toll-Free: 800-223-6639 Fax: 212-730-5706 DG Studios pg. 167 Website: dgstudios.com Phone: 213-623-3353 Diamspark Lab Grown Diamonds pg. 150 Website: diamspark.com Email: labgrown@diamspark.com Phone: 212-221-4400 Fax: 212-221-4401 Effy pg. Back Cover Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Festina Lotus SA pg. 25 Website: festina.com Email: Jason@festina.com Phone: + 34 93 486 7508 Gabriel & Co. pg. 35 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 GIA pg. 29, 37, Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 Harmon pg. 66-67 Website: harmongrp.com Email: rick.arnemann@harmongrp.com Phone: 615-256-3393 Fax: 615-256-3464 Hoover & Strong pg. 161 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997 Imperial pg. 44 Website: imperialpearl.com

JCKONLINE.COM

ADVERTISING

INDEX Italian Trade Agency pg. 54 Website: extraitajewelry.com Email: houston@ice.it Phone: +1 281.888.4288 Fax: +1 281.974.3100 JCK Events pg. 18-19, 51, 165, 172 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers for Children pg. 180 Website: jewelersforchildren.org Phone: 212-687-2949 Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 10-11 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 181 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 JTR Jewellery Exporters’ Association pg. 79, 81 Website: jtr.org.tr Email: info@jtr.org.tr Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 48 Website: gemlogis.com Email: enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333 Jye’s International pg. 27 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880 Lab Grown Diamond NY Inc pg. 148 Website: LGDNY.com Email: sales@lgdny.com Phone: 212-921-0018 / 212-764-7170 Fax: 212-221-0118 Labon LLC pg. 157 Website: labondiamonds.com Email: sales@labondiamonds.com Phone: 315-207-7066

JCKONLINE.COM

Le Vian pg. Inside front cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Lika Behar Collection pg. 39 Website: likabehar.com Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Phone: 201-933-7200 Marisa Perry, Inc pg. 137 Website: marisaperry.com Email: marisa@marisaperry.com Phone: 212-566-8977 Midas pg. 6-7 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765

Rio Grande Inc. pg. 40 Website: riogrande.com Email: info@riogrande.com Toll-Free: 800-545-6566 Toll-Free Fax: 800-965-2329 Royal Chain Group pg. Gatefold cover, 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Royal India USA pg. 52 Website: royalindiausa.com Phone: 212-616-7661 Samuel B. pg. 97 Website: SamuelB.com Email: info@SamuelB.com Phone: 516-466-1826 Toll-Free: 855-SAMUELB

Nicole Barr pg. 42 Website: nicolebarr.com Email: us-info@nicolebarr.com Phone: 919-846-3704 Toll-Free: 877-810-7312 Fax: 919-846-3705

Schofer pg. 41 Website: schofer.com Email: info@schofer.com Phone: +49 (0) 7231-91030

Pompos Jewelry pg. 77 Website: pomposjewelry.com Email: quality@pomposjewelry.com Phone: 213-624-1441

Settu Doshi Inc / J B Brothers USA pg. 49-50 Website: setuu.live Email: hello@setuu.live Phone: (213) 489 3020 Fax: (213) 489 3097

Quality Gold, Inc. pg. 153 Website: Qgold.com Email: info@Qgold.com Phone: 513-942-7659 Toll-free: 800-354-9833 Fax: 513-682-1100 Toll-free Fax: 800-686-7184 Rand & Paseka pg. 65 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 57-64 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rembrandt Charms pg. 45 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811

Shy Creation Inc. pg. 21 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 Simay Gold and Diamond pg. 75 Email: chacha@simayocalan.com Phone: +90 (535) 291 07 34 Toll-Free: +90 (212) 603 25 96 Stuller Inc. pg. 83-95, 139, 162 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Sylvie Collection pg. 70 Website: sylviecollection.com Email: cassie@spectrumdiamonds.com Phone: 800-992-3426 Fax: 214-472-9990

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Tim Roark Inc. pg. 38 Website: timroarkinc.com Email: info@trimportsatl.com Phone: 404-872-8937 Toll-free: 800-568-2011 Fax: 404-872-9346 Umicore pg. 168 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 Uneek Jewelry Inc. pg. 22-23 Website: uneekjewelry.com Email: info@uneekjewelry.com Phone: 213-622-5119 Toll-Free: 888-BE-UNEEK Fax: 213-622-5115 Zen Diamond pg. 73 Website: zendiamond.com Phone: 201-842-7698 Zina Sterling Silver pg. 147 Website: zinasterling.com Email: zina925@zinasterling.com Phone: 310-286-2212

Copyright ©2021 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 152 No. 1 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 1 time a year in July by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information.

Please reference page number listed for more information.

SUMMER 2021

O C T O B E R 8 – 11, 2 0 2 1 MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER | MIAMI BEACH, FL

Our Premier Event The JIS October Show is one of the largest jewelry trade shows in the Western Hemisphere, and is perfectly timed for retailers to restock inventory before the holiday season.

JIS October is the most expansive, diverse JIS Event of the year, featuring an array of international and specialty pavilions, contactless networking technology, exhibitor recommendation programs, and much more. You choose to take immediate delivery of merchandise from the show or write orders for later shipment.

According to our post-show survey, 90% of attendees reported that they felt safe as it relates to COVID-19 at JIS March due to the health and safety measures that were taken onsite. Similar protocols will be taken for JIS October.

To learn more, visit jisoctober2021.com/health-and-safety..

R E G I S T E R T O D A Y AT J I S O C T O B E R 2 0 2 1 . C O M / AT T E N D jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com | +1 (800) 840-5612 S TAY C O N N E C T E D # J I S S H O W

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THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

THE CAT’S MEOW

MEXICAN FILM ACTRESS and singer María Félix, captured here in 1967 wearing a Panthère de Cartier platinum brooch and bracelet she commissioned, wasn’t just another starlet dripping in borrowed bling.

Félix was a serious collector with a deep and collaborative relationship with Cartier—so much so that in 1975, she reportedly walked into the jeweler’s Paris flagship carrying a live baby crocodile that would serve as the model for the double croc necklace Cartier famously created for her. In 2006, the atelier debuted La Doña de Cartier, a collection named for the actress (Félix was known as “La Doña,” for her character in the 1943 film Doña Bárbara). The three-dimensional panthers Félix wears in this photo were first created by Cartier creative director Jeanne Toussaint for the Duchess of Windsor in 1948. “The Duchess was a trendsetter,” says Emily Waterfall, Bonhams’ head of jewelry in Los Angeles. “What she ordered everyone wanted.” —EMILI VESILIND JCKONLINE.COM

© PERIODICO EXCELSIOR

Cartier collector and muse María Félix looks purr-fect in the brand’s signature Panthère pieces

the brilliance you expect

FROM THE BRAND YOU TRUST

Get brilliant about your laboratory-grown diamonds with GIA’s new digital LGDR report, now with full color and clarity specifications. learn more GIA.edu/aboutlgdr

©2021 GIA. GIA® and the GIA logo are registered trademarks of Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

Booth 14101

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Sales@EffyGroup.com

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1.855.ASK.EFF Y