THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
JCKONLINE.COM
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A unique collection of specially designed pieces that celebrate the best in gold artistry.
A N N I V E R S A R Y
800 622 0960
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PROUD MEMBERS OF THE RESPONSIBLE JEWELLERY COUNCIL
P: 212.730.1888
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info@dabakarov.com
JCK LAS VEGAS Events | Opportunities | Promotions | Special Advertising Section
JCK Show & Tell
JCK INDUSTRY FUND N OW I N I T S 2 1 S T Y E A R , T H E J C K I N D U S T R Y F U N D WAS E S TA B L I S H E D I N 1 9 9 7 T O E N H A N C E T H E I M A G E O F T H E JEWELRY INDUSTRY AND TO FOSTER DEVELOPMENT AND R E S E A R C H O F P R O G R A M S T H AT W O U L D B E N E F I T T H E I N D U S T R Y. T O D AT E , T H I S F U N D H A S A W A R D E D O V E R $ 6 M I L L I O N I N G R A N T S T O T H O S E O R G A N I Z AT I O N S O R I N D I V I D U A L S W H O H A V E C R E AT E D P R O G R A M S T H AT I M P R O V E T H E J E W E L RY I N D U S T RY ’ S I M AG E .
FOUNDED IN
1997 $240,000
JCK Industry Fund Mission T O H E L P A I D , A S S I S T A N D I M P R O V E T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y. A S G L O B A L L E A D E R S I N T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y, J C K S T R O N G LY B E L I E V E S T H AT I T I S A N E S S E N T I A L E L E M E N T A N D PA R T O F O U R C O R P O R AT E R E S P O N S I B I L I T Y T O G I V E B A C K A N D C O N T I N U E T O N U R T U R E A N I N D U S T R Y T H AT H A S G I V E N S O M U C H T O S O M A N Y.
IN GRANTS GIVEN OUT IN 2018
OVER
$6 million IN GRANTS GIVEN O U T T O DAT E
2019 Grant Applications will be accepted beginning in Fall 2018.
Congratulations to the 2018 Recipients T H I S Y E A R ’ S G R A N T S W E R E AWA R D E D I N T H E F I R S T Q U A R T E R O F 2 0 1 8 A N D T H E W I N N E R S W E R E R E C O G N I Z E D AT J C K L A S V E G A S . E AC H O F T H E S E O R G A N I Z AT I O N S R E C E I V E D G R A N T M O N I E S T O A D VA N C E S P E C I F I C P R O J E C T S T H AT W I L L B E N E F I T T H E I N D U S T R Y A S A W H O L E B Y I M P R O V I N G C O M M E R C E A N D E N H A N C I N G T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y ’ S O V E R A L L I M AG E I N THE EYES OF THE CONSUMER.
Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC)
Women’s Jewelry Association (WJA)
“J V C i s g r a t e f u l t o t h e J C K I n d u s t r y F u n d f o r t h e i r c o n t i n u e d s u p p o r t
“Support from the JCK Industry Fund has enabled
of our mission of legal guidance, industry guardianship and member
the Women’s Jewelry Association to make
education. This year we are using funds from this grant in a focused
meaningful strides in the development of its Gender
way to support and aid in the successful integration of the “LAB” Lab
Equality Project. The funds received are being used
Grown Diamond neighborhood. JVC will achieve this by providing
to create educational resources and professional
educational opportunities for the industry to fully understand
development opportunities that will have a positive,
d i s c l o s u r e a n d a d v e r t i s i n g a r o u n d t h e s e p r o d u c t s .”
l a s t i n g i m p a c t o n t h e j e w e l r y i n d u s t r y.“
Tiffany F. Stevens, President & CEO
Bernadette S. Mack, Executive Director
Jewelers Security Alliance (JSA)
Jewelers of America (JA)
“The 2018 JCK Industry Fund grant to
“J e w e l e r s o f A m e r i c a i s g r a t e f u l t o b e a
Jewelers’ Security Alliance will support
recipient of a JCK Industry Fund grant.
C y b e r C r i m e P r e v e n t i o n Tr a i n i n g a n d
The grant enables JA to continue
I n f o r m a t i o n f o r t h e d i a m o n d , j e w e l r y, a n d
forward momentum on our consumer
w a t c h i n d u s t r y. T h i s g r a n t i s a p e r f e c t
marketing initiative through development
example of an innovative project to combat
of an industry-wide consumer-facing
a dangerous and growing crime threat that
campaign designed to benefit the
JSA would not have been able to undertake
entire industry and increase
w i t h o u t J C K I n d u s t r y F u n d s u p p o r t .”
c o n s u m e r c o n f i d e n c e .”
John Kennedy, President
David Bonaparte, President & CEO
Diamond Empowerment Fund (DEF) “With continued support from the JCK Industry Fund, our outreach with the Diamonds Do Good message has yielded over 265 million consumer impressions. Our research has confirmed that millennials are learning something new about the industry after reading positive facts and this is creating a positive o p i n i o n a b o u t t h e i n d u s t r y w h i l e i n c r e a s i n g t h e l i k e l i h o o d t h a t t h e y w i l l p u r c h a s e d i a m o n d s .”
Nancy Orem Lyman, V.P. & Executive Director OVER THE NEXT FEW MONTHS, EACH WINNER WILL BE PROFILED IN THE JCK INSIDER NEWSLETTER. VISIT JCKINSIDER.COM TO SUBSCRIBE AND LEARN HOW THE JCK INDUSTRY FUND IS MAKING A DIFFERENCE.
L E A R N M O R E : J C K L A S V E G A S. C O M / I N D U S T R Y F U N D FOLLOW @JCKEVENTS
jckinsider.com
@ j c k e v e n t s # J C K L a s Ve g a s
O C TO B E R 1 9 – 2 2 , 2 0 1 8 M I A M I B E AC H CO N V E N T I O N C E N T E R
|
M I A M I B E AC H , F L
The JIS October Show is the 2nd largest jewelry show in the Americas - only 2nd to JCK Las Vegas - and the largest, most diverse JIS Show of the year with an array of international and specialty pavilions, Matchmaking programs, and much more.
NEW FOR 2018, JIS October and the Centurion South Beach Show are partnering to conveniently co-locate both events in the Miami Beach Convention Center.
RE G I STE R TO ATTE ND OR A P P LY TO E X H I BI T AT: J ISS HOW.COM /OC TOB E R Contact JIS directly at +1 (800) 840-5612 or at jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com
S TAY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S S H O W CO-LOCATED WITH:
KNOW THE JIS SHOW BEFORE YOU GO TAKE A PEEK INTO THE DIVERSE SHOW FLOOR LAYOUT, FEATURING 3 NEW PAVILIONS, A DEDICATED BALLROOM FOR DGI BRANDS AND A NEW CO-LOCATED SHOW FIN E JEWELR Y ITALY
AFFORDABLE FASHION
588
189
288
289
388
389
488
489
184
185
284
285
384
385
484
485
182
183
282
283
382
383
180
181
280
281
380
381
480
481
580
581
176
177
277
376
377
476
477
576
577
273
372
572
573
188
AFFORDABLE FASHION
173
483
475
375 272
373
472
AFFORDABLE FASHION
689
788
789
684
685
784
785
884
680
681
780
781
880
889
989
167
266
163
262
367
267
1089
984
881
980
1080
675 673
1081
1180
SILVER SIL ER PAVILION
677 674
1189
1288
1289
1082 981
1181
1280
1281
1077
772
773
872
873
973
1072
1273
1173
1073
SILVER SIL ER PAVILION
GALLERIA
HONG KONG
1184
882
672
1188
ER PAVILION SILVER
885
SILVER
1388
1389
1488
1489
1588
1589
1688
1689
1384
1385
1484
1485
1584
1585
1684
1685
1382
1383
1482
1483
1380
1381
1480
1481
1580
1581
1376
1377
1476
1477
1576
1577
1676
1375
1474 1473
1572
1573
1672
1372
1789
1888
1889
1988
1989
2088
2089
1785
1884
1885
1984
1985
2084
2085
1783
1882
1982
1983
2082
2083
1781
1880
1980
1981
2080
2081
1976
1977
2076
2077
2074
2075
1972
1973
2072
2073
2068
2069
SILVER ER PAVILION
1683 1681
1780
1677
1776
1881
SILVER PAVILION
1675 1673
1772
1773
1872
1873
SILVER PAVILION
969
469
168 166
473
688
583
AFFORDABLE FASHION
175 172
589
584
PLUMB CLUB
BRANDS
466
467
566
567
668
667
462
463
562
563
662
663
561
660
458
459
558
559
658
967
867
767
862
863
858
859
1066
962
1167
1067
1063
1162
1163
1059
1158
1159
1266
1566
1267
1767
1667
1567
1562
1866
1867
1966
1967
2066
2067
1863
1962
1963
2062
2063
1861
1960
1961
2060
2061
1859
1958
1959
2058
2059
1855
1954
1955
2054
2055
1952
1953
1948
1949
2048
2049
1947
2046
2047
1943
2042
2043
1939
2038
2039
1937
2036
2037
1933
2032
2033
1931
2030
2031
1929
2028
2029
2024
2025
1923
2022
2023
SILVER PAVILION
1663
1763
1659
1759
160 161 158
159
261 258
259
358
359
659
758
759
255 252
148
149
248
146
147
246
354
355
352
353
454
249
754
555 453
FINE JEWELRY
959
652
552
855 753
653
348
749 846
847
946
744 142
243
143
343
442
643
543
443
FINE JEWELRY
742
743
842
843
942
738 136
137
236
436
228
229
328
637
537
437
629
529
429
329
623
522
123
621
421
117
217
114
115
215
110
111
210
211
314
516
417
315
415
515
311
411
511
FINE JEWELRY
617
517
317
FINE JEWELRY
614
611
737
836
837
936
732
733
832
833
1558
1259
1559
1658
1858
818
819
918
716
717
816
817
916
714
715
814
815
914
712
713
812
813
912
710
711
810
811
910
707
806
702
703
802
700
701
800
1542
1543
1642
1643
1743
1842
1138
1139
1238
1439
1538
1539
1638
1639
1739
1838
1437
1536
1537
1636
1637
1736
1737
1836
1433
1532
1533
1633
1732
1429
1528
1024 923
917
911
1022
1016
1010
1029
1023
1122
1123
1222
1015
1114
1013
1112
1011
1110
PLUMB CLUB
1336
1337
1436
1332
1229
1531
1430
1328
GALLERIA
1224
1116
1237
1331 1228
1125
1017
1343
1338
GALLERIA
1124
1118
1243
GALLERIA
1129
719
606
207
1443
1131
718
1847
1242
1128
922
1846
1143
1043
1130
823
1747
1744
1142
943
1028
822
1746
1645
1545
929
723
1647
1547
1544
1232
722
1646
1546
1133
924
1849
1445
1132
825
1848
1447
1033
824
1749
1145
1032
725
1748
1147
933
724
1649
1146
932
928
1648
1144
1236
829
1549
1044
1137
830
1548
1046
1136
828
1449
2053
1845
1944
1843
1942
2045
1042
1037
729
ITALY PAVILION
1049
EQUIPMENT & TECH
1036
731
ITALY PAVILION
1048
1753
1152
937
728
ITALY PAVILION
1053
1223
1322
GALLERIA LOUNGE
1423
1522
1523
1319
1117 1216
1629
1217
1113
1313
1622
1623
1105
1102
1103
1100
1101
GALLERIA
1829
1928
1924 1722
1922
1723
1822
1823
1717
1816
1817
1917
2016
1815
1915
2014
1811
1911
2010
2011
1905
2004
2005
1901
2000
2001
GALLERIA
2019
1517
1617
1415
1515
1615
1411
1511
1611
1516
1211
1310
GALLERIA 1714
1715
1207
2017
2013
1307
1104
1828
1311
1111 1210
1107
1830 1729
1618 1417
1316
1314
1115 1214
1106
1728
1837
1832
1730
1630
1529
GALLERIA
1625
1119
HONG KONG
116
736
947
1052
HONG KONG
FINE JEWELRY
225 122
1258
1155 953
BRANDS PAVILION
129
337
FINE JEWELRY
233
133
128
237
1560 1058
954 952
852
BRANDS PAVILION PAVILIO
153
961
958
FINE JEWELRY
FINE JEWELRY 154
960
1711
1810
GALLERIA
1407
1807
906 104
105
100
101
204
205
201
304
300
301
400
405
505
401
501
605
600
601
805
704
904
1005
902
1003
801 900
JIS ENTRANCE
DGI BALLROOM ENTRANCE
901
1000
1204
1205
1200
1201
1505 1703 1502 1500
1501
1600
1601
1701
1800
1900
1001
JIS ENTRANCE
JIS ENTRANCE
SERVICE CORRIDOR
REGISTRATION
JIS LOBBY NEW! AFFORDABLE FASHION PAVILION The Affordable Fashion pavilion features stylish and trendy pieces at affordable prices, perfect for your store and your fashion-forward customers.
FIN E JEWELR Y
FINE JEWELRY PAVILION The largest pavilion at the October Show, the Fine Jewelry pavilion features the best of both unique and classic fine jewelry designs.
NEW! SILVER PAVILION The Silver Pavilion is your destination for silver jewelry. You can find anything and everything you’re looking for—in every style, size, and design.
ITALY PAVILION An expansive pavilion featuring companies and designers from Italy, showcasing their impressive collections that epitomize the fashion, culture, and aesthetics of the Italian lifestyle.
NEW! EQUIPMENT, TECH, & SERVICES (ETS) PAVILION The ETS pavilion is your destination for cutting-edge technology and the best way to bring the future of the industry to your store(s). Featuring exhibitors such as Gesswein & Co, United Precious Metals, Wexler Insurance, Kassoy, and many others.
BRANDS PAVILION The Brands Pavilion features recognizable brand names looking to expand into new stores and locations all in one convenient, easy to shop pavilion.
GALLERIA PAVILION The exclusive Galleria Pavilion offers a premium buying environment with many of the finest jewelry designs all in one place—featuring a unique and inviting lounge area.
HONG KONG PAVILION Explore the fascinating Hong Kong Jewelry Market and deal directly with major manufacturers from overseas to get the most incredible value—organized by HKJMA.
PLUMB CLUB PAVILION The Plumb Club’s unique coalition of leading manufacturers supply an immense range of products from high-end fine jewelry to fashion and silver. Visit the Plumb Club Pavilion to buy direct from prime source manufacturers assuring the best pricing, the most value, and the largest possible margins for your inventory.
DGI BALLROOM As the leading Sales and Marketing agency in the Caribbean, Alaska, and the cruise ship markets—including Central America and Mexico— DGI has built some of the biggest brands in the market place. DGI will be presenting all 20 brands they currently represent, including: LeVian, Fendi, Uno de 50, Freida Rothman, and Philip Stein. VIEW THE EXHIBITOR LIST AT JISSHOW.COM/OCTOBER - New Exhibitors Added Daily!
ADVERTISEMENT
Diamond Producers Association Is Committed to Diamonds, Diamond Communities, and Industry Leadership The world’s leading diamond mining companies have established the Diamond Producers Association (DPA) to develop diamond category marketing programs in all key markets, to support stakeholder confidence in the diamond industry, and to lead positive change in the sector. DPA members all committed to working together and with their partners to build a strong future for the diamond industry and for diamond communities, from mine to market. Thanks to its members, the DPA will invest close to $70 million in 2018 in diamond marketing in the US, China, and India. The DPA is proud to introduce its 2018 members. To find out more about the way DPA members operate their businesses sustainably, visit www.diamondproducers.com/industry/sustainability
ALROSA is one of the world’s leaders in diamond mining, accounting for about 30 percent of global rough diamond production. The company mines all of its diamonds in Russia, and its workforce is almost 40,000 people, whose average salaries are three times higher than the Russian national average. ALROSA places a premium on worker safety and compliance with environmental standards of operations. Spending about 3 percent of its revenue on social improvement programs, ALROSA is one of the industry’s biggest benefactors. eng.alrosa.ru
De Beers Group, established in 1888, is the world’s largest diamond producer by value, with mining operations in Botswana, Canada, Namibia, and South Africa. Together with its joint venture partners, De Beers Group employs more than 20,000 people across the diamond pipeline. As part of the company’s operating philosophy, the people of De Beers Group are committed to “Building Forever” by making a lasting contribution to the communities in which they live and work, and transforming natural resources into shared national wealth. debeers.com
Dominion Diamond Mines is Canada’s largest independent diamond producer with controlling interest in the Ekati Diamond Mine and a 40 percent stake in the Diavik Diamond Mine. It supplies rough diamonds to the global market and also owns the CanadaMark brand. Dominion is guided by the principles of social responsibility, environmental stewardship, and economic sustainability. It is fully committed to the health, safety, and well-being of its employees and to establishing strong, lasting, and respectful relationships with the people and communities with whom it works. ddmines.com
Gem Diamonds specializes in high-value diamonds. The company owns the Letšeng mine in Lesotho and the Ghaghoo mine in Botswana. Letšeng is renowned for its regular production of large, top color, exceptional white diamonds, making it the highest average dollar-per-carat mine in the world. Gem Diamonds believes it is its moral obligation to contribute to the sustainable socioeconomic growth of the areas in which it operates and works to create a safe and healthy working environment with minimal environmental impact. gemdiamonds.com
People, places, and products that represent the diamond industry
Lucara Diamond Corp. owns and operates the Karowe Diamond Mine located in north-central Botswana, where the second and sixth largest gem-quality diamonds were recovered: the historic 1,109 carat Lesedi La Rona and the 813 carat Constellation. In March 2018, Lucara acquired Clara Diamond Solutions Corp., a secure, digital sales platform that uses proprietary analytics and blockchain technologies to modernize the supply chain. Lucara has received awards for its targeted and sustainable community-investment initiatives and respect for the natural environment. lucaradiamond.com
Petra Diamonds, operating in Botswana, South Africa, and Tanzania, is a leading independent diamond mining group and a consistent supplier of gem-quality rough diamonds to the international market. Petra conducts all operations according to the highest ethical standards and operates only in countries that are members of the Kimberley Process. The company contributes to the socioeconomic development of its host countries and supports longterm sustainable operations to the benefit of its employees, partners, and communities. petradiamonds.com
Rio Tinto operates a global diamond exploration, mining, and sales and marketing business, with a strong and trusted profile in established and developing markets. Rio Tinto’s diamond business comprises some 1,000 people around the world. As one of the world’s largest producers of rough diamonds, its diamond portfolio offers the full range of diamonds in terms of color, size, and quality. Rio Tinto is committed to the highest possible health, safety, and environmental standards and is strongly committed to improving the long-term future of the diverse communities in which it operates. riotinto.com
RZM is the majority owner and operator of Murowa Diamond Mines in Zimbabwe and today produces approximately 1,200,000 carats. of predominantly white gem-quality diamonds. Murowa recently went through a strategic overhaul exercise that resulted in a new life-of-mine plan and a new approach to mining. RZM is dedicated to being an active member of the communities in which it operates through sustainable growth initiatives. It benefits 50,000 people through its five-year Community Action Plan and creates lasting contributions to the local economies. murowadiamonds.com
CONTENTS
72
JCKONLINE.COM
COVER
PEARL DOMINATION
Our annual ode to the lustrous gems in all their multihued glory. PHOTOGRAPHY BY GAVIN O’NEILL
FEATURES 80
THE GIFT OF FAB You’ll find something for all your style-savvy clients in our trend-bytrend seasonal shopping roundup. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS
86
NO BUSINESS LIKE SNOW BUSINESS Prep your staff and store for the holidays with our no-fail sales tips. BY STEPHANIE VOZZA
90
GET YOUR REPAIRS IN ORDER There’s major money to be made in jewelry repairs. BY EMILI VESILIND
92
MALLS OF AMERICA: PART 3
80
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
92
In a town where face-lifts are de rigueur, Westfield Century City got a billion-dollar version. BY CHRIS WILLMAN
SPECIAL REPORT: WEDDINGS
90
100
DIGITAL ASSETS 20 stunning rings, from old-world rose cuts to spiky modern shields. BY RANDI MOLOFSKY
106
BEFORE YOU GO ON YOUR MARRY WAY… Experts share secrets to years of happy marriage-related sales. BY AMY ELLIOTT
FROM TOP: GAVIN O’NEILL; JOEL STANS; MARION BRENNER/OJB LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE; COURTESY JEWEL CRAFT. ATHENA RING WITH AKOYA PEARLS AND 0.55 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $2,990, CARBON & HYDE, 213-457-7377, CARBONANDHYDE.COM; 18K YELLOW GOLD RING WITH WHITE SOUTH SEA PEARL AND 0.33 CT. T.W. MOONSTONES, $2,160, ALESSANDRA DONÀ AT GIOIELLI GROUP, 914-289-0206, ALESSANDRADONA.COM; 18K GOLD EARRING WITH SOUTH SEA PEARLS AND 0.65 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $3,300 (SOLD AS PAIR), DANIEL DILMAN, 800-732-7522, DANIELDILMAN.COM; RING BY BELPEARL, EAR PIN BY KATKIM, FOUR-STRAND CHOKER BY BUTANI, AKOYA NECKLACE WITH LOCK BY MARLA AARON (SEE PAGE 75 FOR FULL CREDITS)
12
CONTENTS
49
14
DEPARTMENTS 18
JEWEL BOX
5 things rocking the industry
60
20 FROM THE EDITOR 22 STAFF PICKS 24 FROM THE PUBLISHER 30 JCK INSIDER 32 JCKONLINE 34 SOCIAL DIARY 37 NEWS GEMS
The new FTC guides
Industry shows, Sept. 22–Nov. 25, 2018
JCKONLINE.COM
56
42 GEM PRICING REPORT 44 THE CALENDAR 49 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER
Ursula Lyon of The Accessory Junkie 52 RETAIL THERAPY Successful holiday promotions 54 CAUSES TO CELEBRATE 56 STORE WE ADORE Marisa Perry Atelier in New York City
68
Inside Brent Neale’s magical mushroom world JCK ASKS... Richard Mille
THE VAULT PLATINUM DIAMONDS
SHOW BIZ We’re packing our bags for JIS in Miami Beach. Plus: all the details on the recent IIJS show.
119 TOOL TIME
Are chatbots the future of customer service? Plus: the Ticwatch E and more.
128 THE WAY WE WORE
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
120
The inimitable style of Park Avenue “swan” Babe Paley
54
PORTRAIT: HEIDI CURRAN; FLOWER RING: BALL & ALBANESE
59 THE LOOK 60 RED CARPET 62 DESIGNER SHOWCASE
113 114 115 117
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Cover Look
NeW PeArL orDer Give ’em shell with a trove of the year’s most lustrous looks.
Golden keshi South Sea pearl necklace with 18k yellow gold clasp and 0.91 ct. t.w. diamonds; $22,800; Assael; 212819-0060; assael.com
Light up your bestie who’s a mom.
Light up your bestie.
Light up your mom.
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JCKONLINE.COM
18k gold Branching Coral Kasumi pearl ring with 5.8 cts. t.w. rubies and orange and pink sapphires; $4,200; Kimberlin Brown; 917-478-8441; kimberlinbrown jewelry.com
18k yellow gold golden Baby Akoya coil bracelet; $1,800; Baggins; 213-624-2277; bagginspearls.com
MORE: 24k yellow gold white pearl necklace with 2.8 cts. t.w. diamonds; $17,000; Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace; 212-988-1511; gempalace.com • Set of two golden keshi pearl strands with 18k yellow gold shortener; $30,000; Assael • Golden pearl Talon ring in 18k gold; $2,050; Annette Ferdinandsen; info@aferdinandsen.com; annetteferdinandsen.com • Stackable gold South Sea pearl ring in 18k yellow gold; $990; Rudolf Friedmann; 212-869-5070; rudolffriedmann. com • South Sea pearl ear cuff (worn as ring) in 10k yellow gold; $425; Hirotaka; 81-36-256-9617; hiro-taka.com
18k yellow gold Kobe Collier with 5.65 cts. t.w. diamonds and South Sea Burmese golden pearls; $58,000; Belpearl; 212-7526600; belpearl.com
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GAVIN O’NEILL Hair: SASHA NESTERCHUK/ BUMBLE AND BUMBLE, KÉRASTASE & HOT TOOLS Makeup: BOBBY BUJISIC USING MAC COSMETICS/JUDY CASEY Stylist: NADIA RATH/ FACTORY DOWNTOWN Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON USING CHANEL/ART DEPARTMENT Model: YADA VILLARET/ WILHELMINA Clothing: VINTAGE VERSACE
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9/6/18 2:48 PM
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
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the industry authority
5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY
Jewel box 1
RETAIL
Forevermark is becoming the latest brand to go retail. In November, the De Beers diamond line will open its first U.S. brick-and-mortar store in Walnut Creek, Calif., owned and operated by Padis Jewelry, a longtime Forevermark partner. If the under-500-squarefoot store clicks, there may be more, says Forevermark US president Charles Stanley, though the company wants to keep its partner retailers running them. “We’ll see what we learn from this,” he says. “Then we’ll see where it leads.” Tribute collection diamond hoop earrings in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Forevermark; 203388-3544; forevermark.com
Seamaster Diver 300M Co-Axial Master Chronometer in 42 mm stainless steel case with rubber strap; $4,750; Omega; 201-272-1400; omegawatches.com
SHOWS
2
In July, the Swatch Group, the world’s largest watchmaker, became the latest company to say it no longer had time to exhibit at Baselworld, the preeminent, century-old watch fair. It’s the latest blow for the Swiss-based event, which in 2018 attracted just 600 exhibitors, half its 2017 number. On CNBC, Swatch CEO Nick Hayek called fair management “a little bit arrogant, a little bit snobby.” Baselworld owner MCH Group admitted the defection was a “setback”—but just how much of one was illustrated five days after Swatch’s announcement, when CEO René Kamm abruptly resigned after nearly 20 years of service. JCKONLINE.COM
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AUCTIONS
Lovers of historic jewelry lost their heads over Sotheby’s announcement that it would auction pieces once owned by Marie Antoinette in Geneva on Nov. 12. In 1791, as the French Revolution raged, the queen—whose love of jewelry partly caused her overthrow (see the “affair of the diamond necklace”)—shipped some jewels to Belgium, then ruled by her sister. They were passed down through generations of European royalty before coming to Sotheby’s. The top item—a diamond necklace holding a 26 mm by 18 mm natural pearl—carries a $1.2 million estimate. That’s a whole lot of cake.
The former French queen’s pearl and diamond necklace is estimated to sell for $200,000– $300,000.
NECKLACE: COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S
5
BRANDS
Brilliant Earth’s 2017 JCK Jewelers’ Choice Award– winning ethically sourced Ceylon sapphire ring
The Supreme Court has spoken—and most jewelers liked what it had to say. In June, the court ruled 5–4 in South Dakota v. Wayfair Inc. that states could require e-tailers to collect sales tax from consumers in states where sellers don’t have a physical presence. The reaction was immediate: At press time, e-tailer Blue Nile was charging sales tax in 11 states (previously it charged in only three). And Brilliant Earth put up a notice that because of the decision, its tax collection policies may soon change.
4
METALS Rock stars showing off their platinum albums may want to swap them for some golds, as the white metal is having some pretty gray days. In July, its spot price hit $810, a 14year low. At press time, it had recovered to $835, but still lagged gold by nearly $400. In fact, platinum has now trailed gold for the past two years, the longest such run since the 18th century. More surprising, platinum had also fallen $100 behind its younger sibling palladium. Analysts blamed the decline on falling sales of diesel cars, which use platinum in their catalytic converters.
Featherstone Fine Jewelry’s 2018 AGTA Spectrum–winning platinum Wonder Woman cuff with aquamarines, tanzanites, blue zircons, lavender spinels, tourmalines, and diamonds
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
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T
from the editor
Mastoloni’s Gifts From the Sea double-hoop earrings in 14k yellow gold with 7.5 mm–8 mm white freshwater pearls and diamonds ($1,575)
Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
I WAS A junior in college and working as a waitress at a pseudo-Mexican restaurant called Cabo Cabo Cabo in Los Angeles’ Century City Shopping Center. It was the kind of establishment that had cowhide barstools, a barrel of peanuts by the door, and tasty but inauthentic south-of-the-border cuisine (think lobster corn chowder, pineapple salsa, and coconut ceviche). When the restaurant closed a year later, no one was surprised. The location, on the north side of the mall, facing Santa Monica Boulevard, had been a revolving door of eateries. And it continued that way for years—evidence, I couldn’t help but think, of the plight facing all malls. Last year, however, the mall, renamed Westfield Century City in 2005, was reborn as one of the country’s most promising shopping centers. Read all about its billion-dollar transformation in the third installment of our Malls of America series on page 92, where contributor Chris Willman details how the luxury shopping destination appeals to Gen Zers, seniors, and every demographic in between. While the secret to experiential retail involves a lot more than simply selling good product, don’t underestimate the power of a spot-on selection. In our two-part Holiday Survival
Guide, we suggest a bevy of trendy styles sure to lure shoppers (“The Gift of Fab,” page 80) and follow up with a strategic selling guide designed to help you maximize sales this season (“No Business Like Snow Business,” page 86). If you’re interested in maximizing profits, don’t miss senior editor Emili Vesilind’s eye-opening feature on the dollars you’re leaving on the table by overlooking the massive opportunity in repairs (“Get Your Repairs in Order,” page 90). Given that this sales- and profits-themed issue is also our yearly ode to girls with pearls, take a moment to admire the pieces draped, swirled, stacked, and piled on our gorgeous cover model in “Pearl Domination” on page 72, a clear sign that minimalism is for the birds. Last but not least, you’ll find our annual wedding section, starting on page 95. We introduce you to 20 au courant ring styles curated by jewelry director Randi Molofsky (“Digital Assets”), then overwhelm you with sales tips culled from some of the best bridal brainiacs we know (“Before You Go on Your Marry Way…” by JCK ’s All That Glitters blogger Amy Elliott). As you gear up for what I hope is a positively humming holiday season, may the (sales) force be with you! JCKONLINE.COM
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES
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SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
the industry authority
OUR FAVORITE THINGS
STAFF PICKS TREAT YOURSELF What JCK magazine’s MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO is loving this month
Onyx evil eye ring with multicolored sapphires in 14k gold; $640; Eden Presley; sales@ edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com
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Lapis and spiny oyster shell pendant in 14k gold–plated silver; $297; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com
3
Heritage Blossom necklace with African turquoise beads, black agate and turquoise pendant, and semiprecious charms; $1,000; Lizzie Fortunato; 212-777-1008; lizziefortunato.com
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Turquoise marquise cabochon hug hoops in recycled 14k gold; $250; Melissa Joy Manning; sales@ melissajoymanning. com; melissajoy manning.com
Eleguà earrings with vintage details, jade horn pendants, and multicolored zircons in 10k gold–plated brass; €254 ($295); Iosselliani; sales@ iosselliani.com; iosselliani.com
“These color-packed opaque-stone styles are super on-trend—and a bargain to boot. Nothing is more than $1,000!” —Melissa Rose Bernardo, JCK managing editor
JCKONLINE.COM
PORTRAIT: BRUCE GLIKAS
1
FROM THE PUBLISHER
H
appy fall!
Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
IT’S 88 DEGREES with 95 percent umidity as I write, but there’s already a h (psychological, if not meteorological) hint of autumn in the air. By the time you read this, fall will be well underway. The summer went quickly, but there were some great highlights. Jewelry week in July, centered on the JA New York show at the Jacob Javits Convention Center, was punctuated, as usual, by two terrific industry events: the Women’s Jewelry Association Awards for Excellence gala and the American Gem Society’s Circle of Distinction dinner. The 2018 WJA event underwent a complete rethink. Rather than honor multiple women (and the occasional man) across categories, the organization replaced the lineup with the inaugural Visionary Awards, described by WJA board president Jenny Luker as four awards that will go to “women who are the first to hold their high positions of leadership in their companies, and to organizations that are providing support and mentorship to women.” This year’s recipients were Mercedes Abramo, president and CEO of Cartier North America; Caryl Capeci, president of Hearts On Fire; and Nadja Swarovski, the first female member of the executive board of Swarovski. The fourth award was given jointly to De Beers Group and U.N. Women, the United Nations entity dedicated to gender equality and the
We didn’t spot Eloise, but we had a smashing time at the Plaza nonetheless.
empowerment of women. Additionally, the GIA’s much-beloved Bev Hori was awarded the Cindy Edelstein Mentorship Award. Needless to say, it was inspirational to see this many powerful, impactful female jewelry industry execs! Congrats to Jenny and the rest of the WJA team. The AGS awards took place the following night at the Plaza. The annual dinner continues to be a wonderful old-school, black-tie event in a super-elegant setting. In a world of “new, new, new,” it’s refreshing to enjoy a traditional evening. As always, the Circle of Distinction Awards honored amazing people in our biz. Stephen Lussier, CEO of Forevermark, received the Lifetime Achievement Award, while David A. Bouffard, vice president of corporate affairs at Signet, and Terry Chandler, president and CEO of the Diamond Council of America, each received the distinctive AGS Triple Zero Award. It is a delight to sit and listen to industry lions relive the highlights of their careers. So often, their success comes down to the people in this business. I always leave feeling lucky to be in such a supportive industry, filled with amazing talent and terrific friends. As this issue goes to the printer, I’ll be on a family vacation in Mount Desert Island, Maine. Once we’re back, I look forward to hitting the ground running. See you around! JCKONLINE.COM
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; PLAZA: LITTLENY/ISTOCK/GETTY
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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, LUXURY, JIS) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST ISRAEL CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ MIREK KRACZKOWSKI ITZCHAK ARIKHA JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 P.O. Box 3237, Ramat Gan PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ Warsaw, Poland 52131, Israel TAIWAN/VIETNAM 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 972-3-751-2165/6, fax 972-3-575-2201 QUENTIN CHAN cell 48-600-344-881 galisaac@zahav.net.il Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F mirek@jckonline.com 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, THAILAND Kowloon, Hong Kong INDIA BUSABA THAWEEPHOON 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 KAUSHAL SHAH Reed Tradex Co. cell 852-9438-9577 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, quentinchan@leadingm.com Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand Maharashtra, India 66-2-686-7374, fax 66-2-686-7288 91-22-2305-9305 cell 66-96-725-1525 cell 91-98-2171-5431 busaba.thaw@reedtradex.co.th kaushal@kaushals.com JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Event Vice President, JCK Las Vegas SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com Event Vice President, JCK Tucson KATIE DOMINESEY 203-840-5470 kdominesey@reedjewelrygroup.com
Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Renewals & Sponsorships: Clockwork, Essentials & Tech, Security, Retail Experience, Gallery, Bridge, First Look (M–Z), International–Italy 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com
Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedjewelrygroup.com
Account Executive ANA CROSBY Renewals & Sponsorships: Currents, Diamond Plaza, Lab-Grown Diamond, Bridal, Key Accounts, First Look (A–L) 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com
Special Events and Conference Director KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com
Sales Executive DANA KARP New Companies (A–L), Security 203-840-5687 dkarp@reedjewelrygroup.com
Account Executive ALEXANDRA WURSTER International Companies & Pavilions (New & Returning); JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com
Sales Executive BARBARA MURRAY New Companies (M–Z), Retail Experience 203-840-5305 bmurray@reedjewelrygroup.com
Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Bridge (Renewals); JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager, JCK Las Vegas MONALISA DEPINA 203-840-5556 mdepina@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager, JCK Tucson ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager, JCK Las Vegas SAMANTHA NAGEL 203-840-5917 snagel@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager, JCK Tucson MOLLY FITZPATRICK 203-840-5379 mfitzpatrick@reedjewelrygroup.com
L U X U R Y & S W I S S W AT C H E V E N T S Event Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com
JCK080118_26_Masterhead.indd 28
Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedjewelrygroup.com
Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com
Special Events and Conference Director KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com
Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET LUXURY 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com
Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design @ LUXURY 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager MOLLY FITZPATRICK 203-840-5379 mfitzpatrick@reedjewelrygroup.com
9/4/18 9:33 PM
The Best Private Label Story in the Business
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peter@vibhorgems.com (617) 308-1580 www.vibhorgems.com
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 149 YEARS!
Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES
Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com U.S. ADVERTISING SALES
EDITORIAL CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com
News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com Senior Editor / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com
AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com
Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN
Star Wall Collection 888.674.8340 info@graymoorlanedesigns.com www.graymoorlanedesigns.com Graymoor Lane Designs is a division of Artistry, Ltd.
Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI
FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com
Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHIHART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors BALL & ALBANESE, KEVIN CREMENS, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN, KEN GUNMAKER, ETHAN HILL, NICOLE LaMOTTE, STEPHEN LEWIS, MARK LUND, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, GAVIN O’NEILL, CODY PICKENS, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS, PATRIC SHAW, JOEL STANS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENJI TOMA, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK PUBLISHED FOR REED EXHIBITIONS BY
VP, Content LIZ BUFFA
Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK • JCK Las Vegas • JA NY The Select Shows Centurion South Beach
C I R C U L AT I O N Director, PubWorX / WENDY EDELSTEIN Subscriptions and Customer Service 800-305-7759 (North America) 515-247-2984 (other regions) PUBWORX Operations Director MICHAEL CANDEMERES Operations Account Manager ESTRELLA BIBAS Premedia Specialist VANESSA COPPOLA Digital Imaging Specialist JAIRO CORLETO
VP, Business Development MATT CHERVIN
Marketing Director / ALEXIS AINSCOUGH Account Director / HEATHER BOHL Art Director / ANDY ROSS Production Manager / NESTOR CERVANTES Marketing & Sales Coordinator / KATIE KENNEDY One World Trade Center, Floor 28 New York, NY 10007 For content marketing inquiries, please call 212-286-7330 headline-studio.com headline studio is a division of advance local
/ randy siegel, president
Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com
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9/4/18 9:33 PM
Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.
“My name is Carole Ridding, and with my husband, Michael Ridding, we’ve owned Silverhorn Jewelers in Santa Barbara and Montecito for thirty-three years. We’ve been thinking of retiring or scaling down at least for some time. Over the last few years, we explored offers from people wanting to purchase our business. We gave those offers considerable attention, but we also talked to Wilkerson. Based on the strategy explained by Rick Hayes at Wilkerson, we came to the realization that it was a much cleaner arrangement and more straightforward. After considerable thought and study, we chose Wilkerson. Ashley and Greg, Wilkerson consultants, were very dedicated and no one worked harder than those two. This was a good example for everyone else. They were the first ones in and the last ones out. We did reach the goal. In fact, we exceeded the goal, which is remarkable. As you may know, we went through two natural disasters here. The largest wildfire in California history, followed by a devastating mudslide a few weeks later. This really hit our community hard.
“Absolutely, I would suggest that no matter what your plans are, they are a good company to talk with and I highly recommend them to any type of jeweler.” Carole Riding Silverhorn Jewlers Santa Barbara, CA
We had to shut down our business for some weeks due to the fires and mudslides. And even when we re-opened, we were concerned because there was mud on the streets and a lot of people had damage to their homes and were heartbroken about what happened to our little area. However, we rallied and so did our clients. We stayed open longer than we expected in the beginning to make up for that time. Everyone worked harder than ever and we passed our goal. I think this is extraordinary. This speaks well of our company, but it also speaks well of Wilkerson. They ran the remaining part of the sale after these disasters with great dignity. They showed they were flexible and we geared our advertising a little differently and took a different approach for a while with our clients, considering what everyone was going through. It shows they can work in many different situations and this one was extraordinary. Absolutely, I would suggest that no matter what your plans are, they are a good company to talk with and I highly recommend them to any type of jeweler. They have a real, almost scientific approach, a real strategy. It actually works and they know what they are talking about. My husband even wrote them a personal letter because he was so impressed with the Wilkerson team. You can achieve great financial goals through the sale and Wilkerson should be given serious consideration. If I had an occasion to work with them again, I would jump on it, and I know my husband would, too.” -Carole Ridding
Contact us today for a free consultation! Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999. Or visit us at wilkersons.com.
QJ
QUINTESSENCE JEWELRY CORPORATION
14K Gold Tanzanite & Diamond Collection
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INSIDER
DID YOU KNOW?
To cater to Miami Beach’s many in-line skaters, Citibank installed a roll-through ATM in 1996. JIS OCTOBER runs Oct. 19–22 in Miami Beach.
TO LEARN MORE, VISIT jisshow.com.
LUXE YOU’LL LOVE
SEE US AT JIS MIAMI OCTOBER 19-22, 2018
Quintessence Jewelry Corporation 1 Linden Place, Suite 400, Great Neck, NY 11021 (516) 439-5262 | Fax: (516) 439-5264 Order Toll Free: 1.877.405.5588 Email: sales@quintessencejewelry.com Exclusive B2B Wholesale Online Ordering at: www.QuintessenceJewelry.com
JCK080118_30_JCKInsider.indd 30
SHAY THING “We share and wear everything. My mom isn’t just my mom; she is my best friend,” says Tania Shayan (pictured above left, with her gorgeous look-alike mom, Ladan). The mother-daughter duo behind Shay Fine Jewelry—known for its super-stackable diamond and gemstone styles—dish on their design process, inspirations, and more. For the full Q&A, see jckinsider.com/design-of-the-times.
SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.
SKATER: CHUCK MASON/ALAMY
Manufacturer & Wholesaler of 925 Sterling Silver & 14K Gold Jewelry with Genuine Gemstones & Diamonds
Check out the winners of the debut LUXURY Design Awards, presented at this year’s JCK show. Among the honorees: Editor’s Choice winners Doves by Doron Paloma (top) and Sofragem (above). For the full list, visit jckinsider.com.
9/4/18 9:12 PM
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INSTAGEM FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH Sarah Royce-Greensill (@srgjewel ) may be the jewelry and watches editor for the U.K.’s The Telegraph, but her Instagram is an enviable ode to designers all over the world—London, Paris, Cannes, Basel, Munich, Venice, New York City, and beyond. Wherever there’s sparkle, Royce-Greensill is there.
Call us for your loose colored gemstones or for our colored gemstone finished line set in 18k.
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A colored sapphire statement from Fabio Salini at Masterpiece London
Ever-so-slightly mismatched earrings by bold Munich brand Hemmerle
A superhot fire opal bracelet by New York City–based Nina Runsdorf
Here comes the sun, courtesy of London-based brand Venyx.
Having a Poptail with British designer Solange Azagury-Partridge
“Rather than developing a digital strategy, many mom-and-pops hoped the internet would go away. It didn’t…and competing against the Amazons of the world just got tougher.” — JCKonline reader Sean Dunn on “Online Sales Tax: What Happens Now?”
K I M B E R LY C O L L I N S G E M S . C O M
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Modeling Boucheron’s real flowerpetal ring at Paris Couture Week
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9/4/18 9:13 PM 8/22/18 2:53 PM
Social Diary
WJA GALA
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WJA past prez Brandee Dallow (c.) with two Visionaries, Cartier’s Mercedes Abramo and Hearts On Fire’s Caryl Capeci
Gleaming-white smiles abounded at the Diamond Producers Association table.
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Designers Myriam Gumuchian and Lika Behar with Gumuchian’s Jodi Goldsmith
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Signet CEO Gina Drosos chats with WJAtv.
Ageless accessory maven Iris Apfel, who designed a 2017 Atelier Swarovski collection, introduced honoree Nadja Swarovski.
3
Mercedes Abramo, Caryl Capeci, Nadja Swarovski, and De Beers Group/U.N. Women were dubbed Visionaries at WJA’s Awards for Excellence
7
6
JA’s David J. Bonaparte, Forevermark’s Lisa Cochin, Reed Jewelry Group’s Yancy Weinrich, and JCK’s Mark Smelzer mix and mingle during cocktail hour. SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
IN PRAISE OF WOMEN
JCK sales rep Randi Gewertz and JCK Events’ Kate Nellis and Amanda Gochee
8
WJA president Jenny Luker congratulates Bev Hori, who received the Cindy Edelstein Mentorship Award. JCKONLINE.COM
BART GORIN
34
E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M
F I N E J E W E L R Y E S T. 1 9 7 9
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Partnering manufacturers: This is just a sampling. If there’s a manufacturer not listed that you’d like to feature, let us know and we will acquire them. 1872
Christopher Designs
Freida Rothman
JB Star
Martin Flyer
Shogun Pearl
A&D Gem / DVANI
Coast Diamond
Gemelody
KC Designs
Master Craft
Simon G.
A.O.D. Jewelry / Nava Dee
Cordova
Gems One
Kabana
Mastoloni
Southern Gates
Alisa
DA Gold
Gottlieb & Sons
Kelly Waters
Mercury Ring
Spark Creations
Allison-Kaufman
Daniel Dilman
Gravure Commitment by
Kim International
Peter Storm
Steven Royce
Almor Design
David Gross Group
Kimberley Diamond Co.
Platini Jewelry
Stuller
ALOR
De Hago
Gumuchian
Le Vian
Precision Set
Suna
Armadani
Diabella
H.J. Namdar
Lika Behar Collection
Quality Gold
Sylvie
ArtCarved
Dilamani
H.J. Namdar Forevermark
Louis Tamis & Sons
Raymond Mazza
Thorsten Jewelry
Aspery & Guldag
Dinaro Creations
Henderson Collection
Love Pendants (Color Story)
Reko Settings
Triton Jewelry
Azul Bridal Jewelry
Don Conkey & Sons
Honora
LUCA Lorenzini featured
Rembrandt Charms
Uneek Jewelry
BA Gold
Eli Jewels
Hulchi Belluni
Roberto Coin
Vahan Jewelry
Belle Étoile
Euphoria New York
IBGoodman
Royal Chain
Veer
Beny Sofer
Fana
Imagine Bridal
Rudolf Friedmann
Victor
Bering
Frederic Duclos
IZI Creations
Madison L
Sal Praschnik
Zeghani
Breuning
Frederick Goldman
Jabel
Mars Fine Jewelry
Scott Kay
Zina Sterling Silver
Atlantic Engraving
by Lecil M.I. Jewelry / Marika Desert Gold
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37
the industry authority
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE
NEWS GEMS
I
MANUAL DISPARITY The FTC releases new Jewelry Guides. Controversy ensues. BY ROB BATES
N JULY, THE Federal Trade Commission (FTC) released the final—if, at times, controversial—revision to its widely watched Jewelry Guides, with new dictates that could greatly affect the gold, pearl, and diamond trades. In one change long sought by the gem business, the FTC imposed new requirements for marketing “composite” gemstones. The Guides now warn manufacturers not to use unqualified gemstone names such as ruby when selling a flux-grown or composite product and to ensure any description specifies that the composite stone requires special care. “The problem with the lead glass–filled ruby products was no one was disclosing the special-care requirements,” says Sara Yood, senior counsel for the Jewelers Vigilance
RYAN MCVAY/PHOTODISC/GETTY
According to the FTC Guides, we have to tell you that these pearls were dyed.
JCKONLINE.COM
NEWS GEMS
THE Committee (JVC) in New York City. “People would get the stones home and they would fall apart.” Similarly, the Guides require disclosure of pearl treatments—specifically dyeing—and prohibit the use of incorrect varietal names, such as yellow emerald. A number of the changes are already proving controversial. In a move decried by some leading manufacturers, the new Guides allow under-10k gold to be described as gold if the marketing includes “an equally conspicuous, accurate karat fineness disclosure.” Likewise, alloys of less than 925 silver can be called silver if the term is preceded by disclosure of their PPT (parts per thousand) measurement. However, the agency decided against changing its guidance for platinum alloys, since consumers expect platinum to be pure. Some of the most contentious issues revolved around lab-grown diamonds, as the FTC unleashed a slew of decisions that were cheered by the man-made sector and decried by the natural. In perhaps the biggest psychological blow to the traditional industry, the FTC has removed the word natural from its definition of diamond since, it says, diamonds can also be grown in a lab. However, disclosure of lab-grown diamonds is still required, says FTC staff attorney Reenah Kim. The new Guides also allow companies to come up with new lab-grown diamond descriptors if those terms “clearly and conspicuously convey that the product is not a mined stone.” They further allow the term cultured if it’s accompanied by other, clearer descriptors. Those descriptors don’t need to immediately precede the word, as in the past. The new Guides offer “a little more wiggle room,” says JVC president and CEO Tiffany Stevens, “but there are still solid boundaries. You can’t go too far afield because if you do, you will fail the standard.” The FTC decided to revamp its Jewelry Guides in 2012. This is their first major overhaul in 22 years.
What’s Clicking on JCKonline
The top stories for July. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline. com/newsletters/subscribe.
1
FTC Issues New Guides for Jewelry Industry: JCK looks at what the changes mean for different sectors.
2
Justin Bieber’s Jeweler on Hailey Baldwin’s Engagement Ring: New York jeweler Jack Solow dishes on the much-talkedabout oval diamond ring.
3
Jewelry Industry May Feel Effects of Trump Trade Tiff: As the trade war between the United States and China escalates, two dozen jewelryrelated items could get hit.
4
Walmart Seems to Be Cutting Back Jewelry Sales: Once the biggest jewelry seller in America, Walmart has scaled back its jewelry counters.
5
The Story of Hector Rivera, 47th Street’s “Godfather”: How a 14-yearold murder tripped up the so-called underworld boss of NYC’s Diamond District.
“What has always fascinated is how diamonds make people feel.… Expressing love and commitment is a precious and powerful moment, and it requires something powerful and precious to express that, something that is inherently a precious thing.” —Forevermark CEO Stephen Lussier, accepting his Lifetime Achievement Award at the American Gem Society’s Circle of Distinction dinner on July 17
JCKONLINE.COM
JCK080118_37_NEWSGEMS_v2.indd 38
9/5/18 1:09 PM
NEWS GEMS
Q&A
39
that they had this subsidiary responsible for lab-grown diamonds, but they said it was an institute, that they are doing research. And now they have started with [Lightbox]. So it becomes a question of trust for the industry.
3 Questions for...
EVGENY AGUREEV WE SPOKE TO Evgeny Agureev, director of sales for Russian diamond miner Alrosa, at JCK Las Vegas. Here he discusses the possible impact of sanctions against his company, the debut of De Beers’ new Lightbox subsidiary, and the possibility of an Alrosa brand. —RB
Does Alrosa expect to do more with brands? Branding is very important for us. We will launch a few marketing programs this year. We are working in a lot of different directions. One direction is cobranding programs. The other story is about traceability, to provide more information about the final product. Another story is about fancy colored diamonds. We see a big opportunity in that market.
Alrosa rough diamonds
Fine Jewelry Displays
You are reopening your polished sales office in New York City. Do you expect any impact from U.S. sanctions? We are currently working without any sanctions. If we see negative impact from sanctions, we will change our business model. We see a lot of other opportunities from other regions. What do you think of De Beers’ move into lab-grown diamonds? It’s important to explain to the customers, there are two markets: natural diamonds and synthetic diamonds. If we are talking about the real emotions, real feelings, of course that should be linked to natural stones. For Alrosa, that is a real opportunity: We are the main supplier that is focused only on the natural. The other story is linked to trust. For the last 10 years, De Beers was explaining to the market
Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com
JCKONLINE.COM
JCK080118_37_NEWSGEMS_v2.indd 39
9/5/18 1:09 PM
NEWS GEMS
INDUSTRY&PEOPLE
40
Millenary HandWound with 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold case and bracelet; $47,000; Audemars Piguet; 212-758-8400; audemarspiguet.com
OPENING Swiss watchmaker Audemars Piguet is opening a
boutique in East Hampton, N.Y. Day-to-day operations will be overseen by New York City retailer Material Good.
chairman of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses’ World Diamond Mark program.
previously worked for auction house PIASA and e-commerce company Expertissim.
Victoria McKay has stepped
COMPANIES
down as chief operating officer of the London Diamond Bourse after six years. Current operations manager Stacey Aylott will take over the day-to-day management of the club.
COMINGS AND GOINGS
Liquidation companies Eaton Hudson and SimplexDiam Inc. have created a consultancy that advises jewelers looking to turn around their businesses, sell unwanted inventory, or liquidate their stores. Michael Hill announced it will shut all 30 of the Emma & Roe
charm stores it operates in Australia and New Zealand.
Angela Karaguezian Kassabian Grace Karaguezian Terezian
Ippolita Rostagno Ippolita Rostagno has bought back a majority stake in her namesake brand, Ippolita, from private equity firm Castanea Partners. Rostagno will become CEO, replacing Jill Beraud, and retain her position as chief creative officer. Minority investors include friends and family. In addition, the company has hired Diego McDonald, the president of Ghurka, as chief financial officer; brand veteran Beth Fazio as creative director; Ghurka alum Justin Sellman as head of digital and marketing; and Ann Acierno, of David’s Bridal, as senior vice president of sales and merchandising. Mitch Horowitz, a former ad salesperson for JCK and SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
ational Jeweler, has been N named director of sales and marketing at Dallas-based jewelry supplier Roseco.
E xhibitions but will remain
event vice president of the JCK Tucson show. Bachmann will continue to report to Reed Jewelry Group senior vice president Yancy Weinrich.
Luxury Brand Holdings, parent company of Ross-Simons and Sidney Thomas, has appointed Evan Berkley, a former partner in Jacmel, to its board. Sarin Bachmann Sarin Bachmann has been promoted to event vice president for the JCK Las Vegas and Luxury shows. Katie Dominesey has transitioned to a new role that will focus on mergers and acquisitions at parent company Reed
Darcy Penick has been named president of Bergdorf Goodman, which is owned by Neiman Marcus. She previously served as CEO of fashion e-tailer and Amazon subsidiary Shopbop. Peter Meeus, former president of the Dubai Diamond Exchange, has been named
Angela Karaguezian Kassabian and Grace Karaguezian Terezian are taking over the Kirk Kara brand from their father, Kirk Karaguezian. He still plans to
work in a “mentorship role.”
The Plumb Club elected as its president Michael Lerche of Goldstar Jewellery. Lerche, the former vice president, succeeds IB Goodman Co.’s Jonathan C ohen, who had served the maximum three years. A.J. Tosyali of Benchmark was elected the new vice president.
De Beers Group is purchasing Peregrine Diamonds, owner of the Chidliak diamond resource
located in Canada’s Nunavut Territory, for $81 million. It also announced plans to close the Voorspoed mine in South Africa.
HONORED In June, the United Jewish Appeal Federation honored designer Alex Soldier with its
Lifetime Achievement Award for philanthropy at the St. Regis Hotel in New York City.
Sotheby’s has appointed Magali Teisseire as head of its
jewelry and watch divisions for France and Monaco. She
Alex and Galina Soldier JCKONLINE.COM
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a look inside
2019 aGTa GemFair™ Tucson.
What you see may unexpectedly surprise you – over 200 AGTA Members showing on the main GemHall floor and over 35 unique designers in the Designer Grand Ballroom. Our Members are your ethical resource for all links along the jewelry supply chain – mine to market. Register now at agta.org/GemFairTucson and join us.
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NEWS GEMS
EM
42
OFFBEAT MATERIALS FIND RETAIL SUCCESS
THIS SUMMER, SEASONAL sales were consistent with expectations as retailers in popular tourist markets reported decent traffic, while classic neighborhood stores generally experienced low traffic, as is typical of July and August. An exception was retailers offering jewelry featuring unusual materials—think nonprecious metals, resins, and even fibers—who noted particularly good business. Their audience, young professionals who are more likely to be self-purchasers, are buying a finished look; unlike more traditional buyers, they are not as concerned with the value of the component materials. In general, purchases in this category are at lower price points. While precious metals still abound, more and more designers are embracing offbeat elements to make their popular jewelry stand out. In colored stones, sapphire dominated the summer. Blue and blue-green sapphires are reportedly the strongest sellers. In the blue-green material, the teal-colored stones are most popular right now. Well-made 1 ct.–plus sizes are wholesaling from $750 to $1,600 per carat, depending on quality.
VS1
VS2
SI1
SI2
GOOD
DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant G H
$6,800 $6,080
$6,320 $5,800
$5,700 $5,450
FINE
Alexandrite $4,720
1 to under 2 cts.
$2,750–$4,500
$8,000–$10,000
2 to under 3 cts.
$3,500–$6,000
$9,500–$11,500
$4,470
Rhodolite Garnet I
$5,700
$5,200
$4,950
$4,000
J
$4,900
$4,500
$4,080
$3,760
1 to under 3 cts.
$30–$70
$70–$110
3 to under 5 cts.
$60–$90
$90–$150
DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round G H
$3,570 $3,200
$3,200 $3,000
$2,700 $2,600
Rubellite Tourmaline $2,340
1 to under 3 cts.
$75–$125
$220–$250
3 to under 5 cts.
$110–$225
$275–$375
$2,270
Tsavorite Garnet I
$2,720
$2,630
$2,250
$2,150
J
$2,240
$2,125
$2,000
$2,050
H
$12,200 $10,300
$11,300 $10,000
$9,350 $8,300
$575–$850
$1,050–$1,250
3 to under 5 cts.
$1,500–$2,200
$2,500–$3,000
Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)
DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant G
1 to under 3 cts.
$7,600
9 to under 12.5 cts.
$3,500–$4,500
$4,500–$8,000
10 to under 13.5 cts.
$4,000–$5,000
$5,000–$9,000
$7,150
Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I
$9,700
$7,900
$7,600
$6,725
J
$7,200
$7,300
$6,400
$6,000
2 to under 3 cts.
$1,800–$3,500
$5,000–$6,250
3 to under 5 cts.
$2,500–$3,700
$6,500–$9,000
DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut G
$8,960
$8,100
$7,575
Pink Sapphire $6,600
H
$8,350
$7,560
$6,800
$6,000
I
$6,475
$6,140
$6,000
$5,400
1 to under 3 cts.
$425–$715
$850–$1,100
3 to under 5 cts.
$525–$950
$1,350–$1,800
1 to under 3 cts.
$50–$75
$125–$150
3 to under 5 cts.
$60–$80
$135–$170
Blue Zircon
J
$5,350
$4,850
$4,770
$4,700
Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.
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JCK080118_42_NEWS_GemPricing.indd 42
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9/5/18 1:04 PM
44
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
the industry authority
SHOWS & EVENTS
THE CALENDAR U.S.
KANSAS CITY GIFT SHOW Lenexa, Kan. kansascity giftshow.com
19–22 JIS OCTOBER
Miami Beach, Fla. jisshow.com
SELECT JEWELRY SHOW
National Harbor, Md. selectjewelry show.com
18–21
CENTURION SOUTH BEACH
Miami Beach, Fla. centurion southbeach.com
WHOLE BEAD SHOW
September Birthstone
New York City
wholebead.com
SAPPHIRE
19–20
18k gold Halo ring with 18.67 ct. star sapphire, 5.04 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, and 0.02 ct. t.w. diamonds; $95,000; Temple St. Clair; 212-219-8664; templestclair.com
CHICAGO RESPONSIBLE JEWELRY CONFERENCE Chicago
• SEPTEMBER 22–23
AMERICAN BEAD SHOW
Charleston, S.C. americanbead shows.com
24
PIRO SUMMIT New York City
gopiro.com/summit
24–25
INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Las Vegas iwjg.com
28–30 GEMFAIRE
Boise, Idaho gemfaire.com
INDIANAPOLIS BEAD, GEM, MINERAL & JEWELRY SHOW Indianapolis
toteshows.com
29–30
AMERICAN BEAD SHOW
Jacksonville, Fla.
• OCTOBER 5–7
GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Livonia, Mich. glwshows.com
GREENSBORO GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW
americanbead shows.com
Greensboro, N.C.
30–OCT. 1
GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
gtshows.com
Minneapolis
Timonium, Md.
glwshows.com
intergem.com
PORTLAND JEWELRY SYMPOSIUM
WALNUT CREEK BEAD & DESIGN SHOW
portlandjewelry symposium.com
beadanddesign.com
Portland, Ore.
Walnut Creek, Calif.
chiresponsiblejewelry conference.com
9–10
METAL & SMITH
19–21
metalandsmith.com
Del Mar, Calif.
Los Angeles
12–13
GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS West Springfield, Mass. glwshows.com
12–14
GEMFAIRE
Costa Mesa, Calif. gemfaire.com
intergem.com
gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Houston
intergem.com
NASHVILLE JEWELRY AND MERCHANDISE SHOW
Nashville, Tenn.
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Dallas
GEMFAIRE
helenbrett.com
SANTA MONICA BEAD & DESIGN SHOW
Santa Monica, Calif. beadanddesign.com
JCKONLINE.COM
20–21
AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Atlanta
americanbead shows.com
26–28
GEMFAIRE
Santa Rosa, Calif. gemfaire.com
HARRISONBURG BEAD, GEM, MINERAL & JEWELRY SHOW
Harrisonburg, Va. toteshows.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
21–23
Marion, Ohio
Lafayette, La.
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
STULLER BRIDGE CONFERENCE stuller.com
22–23
INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Brooklyn, N.Y. iwjg.com
25–28
JEWELRY, FASHION & ACCESSORIES SHOW Rosemont, Ill. jfashow.com
intergem.com
San Mateo, Calif. intergem.com
26–29
NEW YORK CITY JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW New York City nycjaws.com
28–30
JA NEW YORK FALL New York City
ja-newyork.com
• NOVEMBER 1–4
MID-SOUTH JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES FAIR Southaven, Miss. helenbrett.com
2–4
ATLANTA CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY SHOW Atlanta
atlantacontemporary jewelryshow.com
GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Orlando, Fla.
glwshows.com
GEMFAIRE
Eugene, Ore. gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
Marlborough, Mass. intergem.com
Enjoy the view in Chicago Oct. 19–20.
CHICAGO: RON THOMAS/E+/GETTY; AMSTERDAM: SAMI SERT/ISTOCK/GETTY
14–15
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8917 W. Sahara Avenue Las Vegas, NV 89117 • Phone: 702.233.6120 • Fax: 702.233.6125 • Email: support@agslab.com
shows & events
THE CALENDAR
46
INTERNATIONAL 3–4
WEST COAST GEM & MINERAL SHOW
51ST ANNUAL OPAL, GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
Costa Mesa, Calif. mzexpos.com
Anaheim, Calif.
October Birthstone
WHOLE BEAD SHOW
opalsociety.org
AMERICAN BEAD SHOW
Oakland, Calif.
OPAL
americanbead shows.com
10–11
6–7
Indo-Russian earrings with 2.76 cts. t.w. diamond and 8.84 cts. t.w. opals; price on request; Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace; 212-988-1511; gempalace.com
Navarre, Fla.
wholebead.com
Louisville, Ky.
AMERICAN BEAD SHOW
GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS
americanbead shows.com
Asheville, N.C.
10–12
glwshows.com
GEMFAIRE
GATLINBURG APPAREL, J EWELRY AND GIFT SHOW
gemfaire.com
nortonshows.com
9–11
Gatlinburg, Tenn.
Puyallup, Wash.
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
12–13
intergem.com
Miami
INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD
Denver
iwjg.com
JACKSONVILLE FALL BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW
15–18
Jacksonville, Fla. aksshow.com
PASADENA ARTS & CRAFTS SHOW Pasadena, Calif.
beadanddesign.com
INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY AND MERCHANDISE SHOW New Orleans
helenbrett.com
16–18
FLORIDA JEWELRY & APPAREL EXPO
SAN ANTONIO WHOLESALE JEWELRY, GIFT & ACCESSORIES SHOW
Kissimmee, Fla. gtshows.com
GEMFAIRE
San Antonio
parkertradeshow.com
Portland, Ore.
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Seattle
intergem.com
AMERICAN BEAD SHOW
Memphis, Tenn. americanbead shows.com
23–25
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
San Mateo, Calif. intergem.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
Southfield, Mich.
22–26
VICENZAORO Vicenza, Italy
vicenzaoro.com
26–28
MAGIC JAPAN Tokyo
ubmfashion.com
26–30
24–25
Moscow
GEMFAIRE
Monterey, Calif. gemfaire.com
GET READY FOR… NYC JEWELRY WEEK SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
• • SEPTEMBER OCTOBER
intergem.com
gemfaire.com
NOV. 12–18
Ride like a local in Amsterdam Nov. 8–11.
17–18
JUNWEX MOSCOW junwex.com
28–OCT. 1
2–6
MIDEAST WATCH & JEWELLERY SHOW Sharjah, United Arab Emirates
mideastjewellery.com
4–7
JUNWEX YEREVAN Yerevan, Armenia junwex.com
11–14
ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW Istanbul
INTERGEM 2018
istanbuljewelry show.com
intergem.de
24–26
Idar-Oberstein, Germany
29–OCT. 1
DELHI JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR
INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY TOKYO Yokohama, Japan
25–29
THE JEWELLERY & WATCH SHOW Adnec, Abu Dhabi jws.ae/en.html
26–29
SINGAPORE JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR Singapore
singaporejewellery gemfair.com
• NOVEMBER 2–5
TAIWAN JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR Taipei City, Taiwan
taiwanjewelleryfair. com/en-us
8–11
SIERAAD INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY ART FAIR Amsterdam
sieraadartfair.com
9–11
JUNWEX PREMIUM Moscow
junwex.com
9–12
CHIBIMART Milan
chibimart.it/en
14–17
VOD DUBAI INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Dubai, United Arab Emirates
jewelleryshow.com
ijt-aki.jp/en
New Delhi
delhi.jewelleryfair.in
JCKONLINE.COM
18K 0.50 ctw $300.00
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HONG KONG
VICENZA
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JA NEW YORK
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Nelsonus.com 800-489-3327 Info@nelsonus.com
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the industry authority
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE
SHOP TALK Ursula Lyon The Accessory Junkie theaccessoryjunkie.com
THE EXTRA FACTOR The Accessory Junkie’s Ursula Lyon reveals how she turned her love for shopping overseas into a thriving retail business
HEIDI CURRAN
“I
BY EMILI VESILIND
’M SOMEONE WHO likes my plate very full,” says Ursula Lyon, cofounder of The Accessory Junkie, with a laugh. “I’ve found that I’m not so happy when I’m not really busy.” That mentality helps explain why the busy mother of three kids (all under the age of 8) would start a retail business that requires her to crisscross the planet with profound regularity. But delivering jewelry and accessories handcrafted by artisans all over the world—rare treasures you can’t order on a laptop or an iPhone— is the concept behind The Accessory Junkie, the 2-year-old e-commerce site based in Westport, Conn. The
Shop Talk
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INNOVATIVE RETAILER Rainey resin cuff with agate, CZ, and 18k gold vermeil; Althea resin cuff with peach aventurine and black rhodium–plated brass; $380–$400
“It’s such a beautiful feeling to have a feel-good company in the world right now.” —Ursula Lyon
What made you want to start The Accessory Junkie? I love nothing more than traveling the world, and I’ve always found things in unexpected places. I started SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
buying jewelry and reaching out to designers about pieces. In the process of building the business, I kept calling [Accessory Junkie cofounder] Michelle Reeves for advice and we had the most beautiful rapport. I was talking to her on the phone one day and I was asking her who she thinks I should partner with on the business, and she said, “Me!” We’ve been working together for two years now and we have a group of five in the company, including a photographer. How does The Accessory Junkie work from the vantage point of the consumer? We create collections of jewelry and accessories for fall, winter, spring, and summer. All our pieces are one of a kind—there’s no mass production. We want women to know they’re getting things not everyone else can get. As a shopper, the day before the next collection goes up you get an email alert that says something like “The collection goes up live tomorrow at
2 p.m.” Then you get the alert that the collection is up, and our shoppers know when they see that, they need to run to the website and grab what they want right then. Our collections always sell out, usually within four to five weeks. The last collection we put up sold through 30 percent by the end of day one. And when the collection sells out, we close down the site. How do you engage your shoppers in between the collection releases? We send a series of emails after every collection that really [pivot] around storytelling. We tell the stories of where the pieces came from and who made them. Some emails will include styling tips. We’ve found that women really connect to the stories of where pieces are from and who made them. I was telling a shopper at the pop-up in Malibu about the two Brazilian women who made the earrings she was buying, and minutes later I heard her tell that story to someone else. The story became hers.
What led you to debut the pop-up in Malibu this past summer? We’d been doing this tour between collections, the Secret Suitcase Tour, where we showed up and let people shop. We realized that between collections people need their little shopping fix. Last year we came out to L.A. with five suitcases of accessories for an event and came home with one tiny bag. So we essentially landed the Secret Suitcase Tour in Malibu. Jewelry and accessories are so huge right now—why do you think that is? Jewelry and accessories trigger memories. Also, buying an earring or a necklace is such an easy and affordable way to get involved in a trend. Accessories have always been my style secret. The power of accessories is real. GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER
JCKONLINE.COM
HEIDI CURRAN
retailer releases four collections a year online, and in between hosts innovative live shopping events. This past summer, for example, the company erected a chic “clubhouse” in Malibu, Calif., that featured a nonstop schedule of out-of-the-box events (think yoga, manicures, and a “cookie dough adventure”). Lyon came up with the idea for The Accessory Junkie after years of telling tales about her own unique extras, which she’s picked up throughout her many years of traveling. “I’m the ultimate accessory junkie,” says the 35-year-old, who’s also the company’s buyer and house model. “I once went wine tasting in Tuscany and walked away with a bunch of Lucite handbags. I’m always doing things like that!”
Shop Talk
IL
PROMOTION PICTURE BY EMILI VESILIND
Q: What has been your most successful holiday promotion, and why do you think it worked so well? a: Every year we do the Let
LILLY MULLEN PRESIDENT SPRINGER’S JEWELERS Portland, Maine springersjewelers.com
It Snow promotion, where if it snows 6 inches or more on Christmas, you get your money back. Anything you buy from the company during the two weeks after Thanksgiving you would get completely refunded for if it snows at least 6 inches at any one of our locations. It front-loads holiday shopping for us—we see better sales earlier. The promotion is also a great closer for salespeople and gives them another thing to talk about with customers.
SUSAN LIGHT CO-OWNER LIGHTS JEWELERS & GEMOLOGISTS Hattiesburg, Miss. lightsjewelers.com
a: We met renowned diamond THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY JCK NEWS DAILY
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A ROUNDUP OF OUR BEST STORIES DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX EACH DAY. Breaking news, industry insights and practical advice for the jewelry trade. With all original, not aggregated content, the JCK News Daily newsletter is the industry’s true, business-to-business news source.
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JCK080118_52_SHOP_RetailTherapy.indd 52
cutter Gabriel “Gabi” Tolkowsky, and he came to our store around the holidays on a tour of cities. But the stones he was going to put up for sale didn’t show up—they were mailed to the wrong address. So we had a reception that was just beautiful, on a Friday night, but with no stones! Instead, Gabi talked to everyone and signed letters of provenance for people who had pieces of his work. The next day at 7 a.m., the stones arrived, and we had the most successful day in our history—we did more business that day than most jewelry stores do in a whole holiday season. We unintentionally whetted people’s appetites the night before, and ultimately created many more collectors of his work. DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.
MARK VIEREGG OWNER WALTERS & HOGSETT JEWELERS Boulder, Colo. waltersandhogsett.com
a: We host our Charish event—named for “charity” and “sharing.” We ask five local ladies of influence in our community to invite 15 of their friends. We send those friends custom, private invitations. We train the 15 hostesses so they can sell their invited friends at the event, along with help from a staff partner. We also throw in a bit of fun competition by awarding the Charish lady who sells the most a one-of-a-kind necklace. The first time we had the event, we sold more jewelry than we had at any other holiday party in 30 years.
MARK LOREN OWNER MARK LOREN DESIGNS Fort Myers, Fla. markloren designs.com
a: We host a preferredcustomer party showcasing two to three top collections in mid-November. The invitation is mailed with a tiered savings offer to encourage higher-ticket purchases. We do a second mailing to the rest of our database and let all customers and social media followers know we host three Designer Days—events with a personal appearance and a trunk show—on the first three Saturdays of December. We’ve seen a rise in customers purchasing for themselves on those days. JCKONLINE.COM
9/5/18 10:22 AM
Proudly made in the USA Since 1951
World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry 516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com
SHOP TALK
CAUSES TO CELEBRATE
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Sustainable jewelry consultant, Ethical Metalsmiths cofounder, and WJA’s 2018 Carelle grant winner Christina Miller at Colombia’s Gualconda mine
“We’re focusing on grant requests that will drive consumers to the retail counter.”
GIVE IT UP
—Yancy Weinrich
After two decades of quietly giving back to the trade, the JCK Industry Fund is going public with a renewed commitment to funding projects that benefit all jewelers
A jewelry designer and disabled veteran of the U.S. Air Force, Lisa West won WJA’s 2018 veteran grant. SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
S
INCE ITS INCEPTION in 1997, the JCK Industry Fund has awarded more than $6 million in grants to organizations working to promote the jewelry industry. Founded at the behest of members of the Plumb Club, who urged the JCK show’s then-leadership to give back to the trade, the fund has largely operated without fanfare. This year, things are changing. Not only has JCK committed to promoting the fund, thanks in part to a donation campaign that asks every JCK exhibitor to contribute $100 toward the 2019 grants, but also the show has finetuned the fund’s mission statement to make clear that grants will be awarded to proposals aimed at benefiting the entire industry over time. “We’re focusing on grant requests that will drive consumers to the retail
Julie Martin received WJA’s 2018 Cindy Edelstein Jewelry Design Scholarship.
counter,” says Yancy Weinrich, senior vice president of Reed Jewelry Group, organizer of the JCK and LUXURY shows (and parent of JCK magazine). Weinrich says the five recipients of the 2018 grants, which total $240,000 and were awarded in the first quarter of this year, are excellent examples of the type of work the Industry Fund is seeking to promote. “For instance, we funded Jewelers of America, which has done research around creating a generic jewelry advertising campaign,” Weinrich says. “We’re also looking at things that help consumer confidence, such as the Diamond Empowerment Fund’s ‘Diamonds Do Good’ message.” In addition to JA and DEF, the 2018 grant recipients include the Women’s Jewelry Association, whose Gender Equality Project is dedicated
to helping store owners be better prepared to tackle issues of sexual harassment and gender bias in the workplace; the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, in support of its LabGrown Diamond Legal Education Program; and Jewelers’ Security Alliance, whose Cybercrime Prevention Training and Information project is helping jewelers fight digital thieves. “There’s nobody [else] out there who helps promote the industry at large to the consumer,” says Michael Lerche, president and chief operating officer of Goldstar Jewellery in New York City and one of seven people who sit on the JCK Industry Fund’s board. “Now we’re going a step further, targeting other exhibitors and retailers to help the future of the business as a whole and get as many people as possible to recognize it’s a joint effort.” JCKONLINE.COM
MILLER: ARM-FAIRMINED
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
Positively
Pink
Pink Is In 833 Market Street, 10th Floor • San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: (415) 543-1580 • 800-864-0767 • Fax: (415) 398-3699 www.herco.com • Email: info@herco.com
SHOP TALK
STORE WE ADORE
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636 HUDSON ST. NEW YORK CITY
MARISA PERRY ATELIER
On a lovely corner in Manhattan’s West Village, the staff at Marisa Perry Atelier greets shoppers with a glass of bubbly and a heart-stopping array of diamond engagement rings and wedding bands. BY KATHY HENDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY BALL & ALBANESE
M
ARISA PERRY, a vivacious brunette, is the face of the business. Her husband, Douglas Elliott, dressed in black from head to toe, designs rings with an emphasis on the finest micro-pavé settings. Together, they offer a product and level of service that attract a high-end clientele fueled by word of mouth. The secret, says Elliott, is simple: “Every day I ask myself, How can I make the most beautiful engagement rings and wedding bands in the world?”
DYNAMIC DUO Crystal chandeliers, sheer curtains, and a photo mural of a model dripping in diamonds create an ethereal vibe at Marisa Perry Atelier, but the stars of the show are the owners and their sweet dog, Max. Perry and Elliott form the yin and yang of their business, bantering in a manner that attracted an offer for a reality TV series (they declined). They met at a bar in 2001, when Perry worked in marketing and Elliott was designing a namesake line for Neiman Marcus. At the end of their SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
”I like a responsibly sourced diamond,” says Douglas Elliott. “I want my customers to know where their diamond comes from.”
Says Perry: “A lot of our customers are finance guys coming in after the gym with a cup of coffee in one hand and a dog in the other.”
“There’s nothing stuffy about our store. The guys are already scared about asking a woman to marry them.” —Marisa Perry
first date, he gave her an eight-strand pearl necklace and two rings, declaring, “This doesn’t obligate you to see me again.” She countered, “If I was going to do something with you, I wouldn’t do it for pearls.” Chuckling, he says, “I knew I had found my muse.”
WITH THIS RING…
“We’re making a product for people who are in love. It’s wonderful,” says Elliott (with wife/ partner Marisa Perry).
JCKONLINE.COM
When grooms-to-be enter the store, Perry or one of two trusted sales associates invites them to peruse a vertical display case of diamond rings in varied shapes and styles. “We put people at ease,” she says. “Millennials want to interact with someone side by side, like at the Apple store, before sitting down to look at loose diamonds face-to-face.” Behind the main gallery, a small sales desk offers greater privacy; another space displays Forevermark diamonds. Rather than asking a client’s budget, Perry zeroes in on the size of the center stone, showing what’s possible for, say, $25,000, which is an average sale. It helps that Elliott offers hundreds of settings, many of them available for preview on the store’s newly redesigned website and Instagram account. “We’ve
been to the Fifth Avenue jewelers,” Perry says dismissively, “and we have more options than all of them combined.”
BIGGER AND BETTER Driven by trends in fashion jewelry, Marisa Perry clients prefer a large center diamond—2 carats, says Perry, is their “basic stone”—in a delicate setting, which plays to Elliott’s strength in micro-pavé. He specializes in diamond-encrusted wedding bands as thin as 1 mm, designed to fit flush beneath the engagement ring. His micro-pavé stones are set by hand under a microscope in individually drilled holes, with prongs that are virtually invisible from the side. “The New York woman doesn’t want what other people have,” Elliott says. “We’re constantly changing, constantly listening to our customers.” Perry, he adds, can make even the most demanding client happy. “We stay in touch,” she says with a smile, “and soon they’re back with a baby stroller buying a push present.”
DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
The Essence of Timeless Design 18 Karat - Platinum - Fine Gems
Winner/Finalist of the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards for 10 consecutive years since 2009
Showroom San Francisco (415) 621-8880 jyescorp@gmail.com www.jyescorp.com
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the industry authority
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS
THE LOOK
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1
3
4 SIGN OF THE TIMES 1/ Matahari earrings with opals and diamonds in 18k white gold; $6,256; Venyx; 44-203-096-1390; venyxworld.com
2/ Figa necklace in 14k rose gold with resin and diamonds; $5,250; Jacquie Aiche; 310-550-7529; jacquieaiche.com
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3/ Mismatched engraved earrings in 18k yellow gold; $3,045; ARK; 646745-6831; arkfinejewelry.com
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A jewel is worth a thousand words when emblazoned, encrusted, or engraved with symbolic meaning BY RANDI MOLOFSKY
4/ Peace ring with agate and green garnet in 18k yellow gold; $3,380; Borgioni; 310-849-9050; borgionis.com
5/ Necklace in 14k rose gold with diamonds; $6,795; Kismet by Milka; tamy@kismetbymilka.com; kismetbymilka.com
the look
RED CARPET
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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Pantone’s Color of the Year, Ultra Violet, is ultrahot on the red carpet BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
DUA LIPA
You may recall that in the January/ February 2018 issue of JCK we told you malachite would be one of the year’s five hottest gemstones. Clearly, Dua Lipa got the memo. At the Billboard Music Awards, she wore a bold Bulgari Serpenti malachite necklace with her ’80s-style metallic lamé Alexandre Vauthier dress in the year’s hottest hue. Lipa continued her purple reign on stage, where she donned a purple one-piece to perform her single “New Rules.”
MINDY KALING
We’re jealous of Mindy Kaling for many reasons: She knows Oprah; she was in the coolest girl-gang in film history in Ocean’s 8 (Cate Blanchett, Sandra Bullock, Awkwafina, Rihanna…). And over the years we’ve seen her wear just about every color—from neon yellow to electric pink—and wear it well. This gorgeous violet Greta Constantine gown, from A Wrinkle in Time’s Los Angeles premiere, is just another amazing color choice. Oh, did we mention she has her own Barbie?
UNDER $150,000
Gianna Locket and Mirror Compact in 14k yellow gold with 4.7 ct. emerald, 0.71 ct. t.w. diamonds, and 0.09 ct. fancy greenish-yellow diamond; $9,500; GiGi Ferranti; info@gigiferranti jewelry.com; gigi ferrantijewelry.com
UNDER $5,000 Serpenti High Jewelry necklace in 18k pink gold with malachite and diamond; price on request; Bulgari; 800-BULGARI; bulgari.com
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
Malachite Aladdin Potion Bottle in 14k rose gold with diamond chain; $2,965; Jacquie Aiche; sales@ jacquieaiche.com; jacquieaiche.com
Cascade earrings with 20 cts. t.w. pear-shape diamonds in 18k white gold; $48,000; Beladora; sales@beladora.com; beladora.com
Earrings with 21.37 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $126,000; Sutra Jewels; sales@ sutrajewels.com; sutrajewels.com
UNDER $5,000 Abstract Floral earrings with 0.92 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $2,700; KC Designs; 800-552-3790; kcdesignsnyc.com JCKONLINE.COM
LIPA: AXELLE/BAUER-GRIFFIN/FILMMAGIC; KALING: ALBERTO E. RODRIGUEZ/GETTY
UNDER $10,000
the look
DESIGNER SHOWCASE
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18k yellow gold Rainbow & Raindrop, Wildflower & Grass, Wildflower & Bee, and Rainbow & Unicorn double-sided rings; $2,100–$3,350
RAINBOW BRIGHT
Pack up your troubles and just get happy. Jewelry designer Brent Neale is going to chase all your cares away.
A
BY VENESSA LAU
Magic Mushroom band ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.17 ct. t.w. diamond baguettes; $1,695; Brent Neale; 646-745-6831; brentneale.com
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
S A SENIOR at Johns Hopkins University, Martha Brent Neale once interviewed at Morgan Stanley. Stepping up to its midtown Manhattan building, a monolith of glass and lines, dressed in a navy Theory suit and a chunky multistrand Peruvian opal necklace, she was nervous and a little unsure of what she was doing. After all, she had her sights set on law. But her sister, a trader, had persuaded her to look into finance. It turns out the headhunter would offer a third option. When complimented on the bijoux, Neale revealed that she made it herself. The response: “What are you doing here? You should really be doing that.” “Oh, yeah, sure,” the Baltimore native recalls of her reaction, between bites of Baltimore Crab Cakes at the Madison Avenue outpost of Freds at Barneys New York. “Being a jewelry designer? That was never something I thought of as a career path.” She chuckles at the memory. “I really should look up the recruiter’s name.” Today Neale is a jewelry designer who has more than a decade’s worth of experience under her belt and this May celebrated the one-year anniversary of her debut collection, Brent Neale. (“Everyone in my family goes by their middle name,” she explains of the MIA “Martha.”) In fact, we’re meeting at Barneys because it’s one of her key retailers; her designs, a joyous cocktail of color and whimsy in mushroom pendants and unicorn studs, are displayed right by the entrance—prime real estate for a young label.
Small Rainbow tennis bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 0.96 ct. t.w. pink tourmaline, 0.72 ct. t.w. citrine, 0.72 ct. t.w. peridot, 1.2 cts. t.w. amethysts, and 1.2 cts. t.w. blue topaz; $3,150
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Vendor of the Year 2013 - 2017
Vendor of the Year
2012 - 2014 2016 - 2018
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DESIGNER SHOWCASE
One-of-a-kind Multi Door and Flower Charm necklace in 18k yellow gold with lapis, ebony wood, malachite, turquoise, white agate, and diamonds; $76,390
“You can’t be everything to everyone. Because then your voice gets lost.” —Brent Neale
Clover & Hummingbird double-sided ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.064 ct. t.w. diamonds and 13.5 cts. t.w. white agate; $2,750
Clover & Double Heart drop earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, blue topaz, reconstituted turquoise, lapis, and coral; $3,650
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
Even if Neale never set out to be a jewelry designer—each step of her career has its share of happenstance, one learns— the signs were there. During college, she accompanied her “crafty” and antiques-loving mother to gem shows outside of Washington, D.C. And her sister in New York City, having noticed Neale’s subsequent interest in beading, directed her to the bead emporiums in the Garment District whenever Neale visited. That’s how she began dabbling in jewelry as a hobby—nothing serious, though, just “stringing and wire-wrapping and stuff like that.” Months after her fleeting brush with finance—spoiler: She didn’t get the job—Neale took a summer gig at Bonne Nuit, an East Hampton shop owned by a family friend, which occasionally sold her wares. She was on duty the day a woman came in, inquiring about the necklaces. Neale introduced herself as the designer and soon had a job offer; the customer owned a company that made private-label jewelry for big-box retailers. Neale spent two and a half years with the firm, Horizon Group, before enrolling in the jewelry design program at the Fashion Institute of Technology to acquire the technical skills she couldn’t pick up on her own. Kismet struck again during her second year at FIT when she met jewelry designer Kara Ross at a wedding—Neale’s then-boyfriend, now her husband, is friends with Ross’ brother—which resulted in an internship with Ross’ company and, after graduating in 2007, a full-time job. She spent eight years there, climbing her way up to jewelry director and working on everything from the launch of costume— Ross’ answer to the skyrocketing price of gold in 2008—to
designer collaborations with J. Mendel, Naeem Khan, and Tory Burch. “Kara is a force of nature,” gushes Neale. “And when you work for her, the relationship is more than just employee-employer—she’s a cheerleader, very giving and encouraging. She’s like that with everyone at her company.” Neale acknowledges it was hard to go from a tight-knit family environment, with a mentor like Ross, to a solo act. And she admits branching off was never part of the game plan. “I liked being part of a team, and I loved working for her,” Neale says. “When you work for yourself, you’re not just a jewelry designer; you’re a business owner and have to think about accounting, inventory, hiring people.… It’s a lot. I wasn’t sure I ever wanted to do that.” What changed her mind? She had a son in 2013 and, two years later, twin daughters. While Neale came back to work after the first pregnancy, the second proved harder— she was deemed high-risk and had to go on bed rest. So she trained her replacement and officially left Ross in July 2015. “I didn’t really have a choice,” Neale says. “I was going to have three kids, all under 3, and I didn’t want to miss this time with them.” More than a year in, sensing she was going stir-crazy, her husband suggested she start sketching again. So she did, whipping up an initial drawing of a rainbow ring, a spectrum of brightly colored gemstones bursting from an opal cloud—it’s a signature now and perfectly encapsulates the buoyant, playful vibe of her line. Asked about the inspiration, Neale doesn’t mince words. “That was a really tough year,” she says. “The girls were premature and JCKONLINE.COM
THE MARK OF LUXURY Discover a new expression in luxury with our 14K Signature gold and diamond collection. Fashionably elegant and sophisticated, our creations are handmade in the U.S. for flawless design and lasting perfection. The ideal jewelry for today’s stylish woman.
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E.L. Designs ED LEVIN STUDIO
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DESIGNER SHOWCASE
Opal bead necklace with 18k yellow gold clasp and blue topaz charm, $1,800; large Rainbow Tassel pendant on 22-inch chain in 18k yellow gold with pink tourmaline, citrine, peridot, blue topaz, and amethyst; $4,905
Malachite Mushroom pendant in 18k gold with pink tourmaline, citrine, peridot, blue topaz, and amethyst baguettes; $3,950
Rainbow Tiered earrings in 18k yellow gold with 2.88 cts. t.w. pink tourmaline, 2.4 cts. t.w. citrine, 1.92 cts. t.w. amethysts, and 1.44 cts. t.w. blue topaz; $9,255
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
in the hospital for two months. It’s a horrible feeling not being able to bring them home and not knowing if they’re going to be okay. I told myself, If I am going to do my own thing, then I want to make people feel happy.” She named her first offerings After the Rain. She has since expanded her range, priced from $1,000 up to $12,000, but continues with the through-line of optimism, color, and delight: turquoise wildflowers dotted with diamonds and a tiny bee; kaleidoscopic ammonite pendants; malachite mushrooms with gemstone “spots”; carved doors inspired by entrances she’s seen in her travels, from Rome (lapis) to the Bahamas (turquoise, with gold hummingbirds). Her next collection, for fall, is inspired by traditional Danish still lifes—exuberant blooms in vases, a mix of colors in stones. It’s easy to see the appeal: Neale’s jewelry offers an escape, and a hit of happiness and f antasy—without the hangover. So far, she has nine accounts nationwide, including Forty Five Ten in Texas, Elizabeth Bruns in North Carolina, and online destinations Moda Operandi and Auverture. “Kara taught me the importance of the right retail partners,” Neale says. “You can’t be everything to everyone. You’ll be doing yourself a disservice. Because then your voice gets lost. “In the back of my mind, I always hear her: ‘Do you love this? Do you really love this?’ ” Neale continues. “Kara would tell me to keep things fresh but at the same time, when you’re designing, you can get carried away. She’d draw it back. ‘You have to love it. If you don’t love it, don’t put it out there.’ ” Another great lesson Neale picked up from Ross was the importance of private clientele. “If your business is 100 percent wholesale, where so much of it is consignment,” she explains, “I don’t know how you can make it.” Enter Instagram, which wasn’t a force during her days working for Ross but has been a boon in expanding Neale’s customer base. Three months after her debut, Neale sold her first item—a four-figure rainbow ring—on the social media platform to a follower who direct-messaged her while lunching with a friend on the Upper East Side. The designer dispatched an intern to the restaurant with the ring (and a portable credit card reader)—and the woman bought it on the spot. “It is immediate,” Neale says, adding that she nets, on average, about a sale a week or more on Instagram. “And, remember, this is fine jewelry. It’s awesome—I don’t have my own store, so this lets me have a direct relationship to people.” Her retailers are reaping the benefits as well. The week before this interview, she sent a follower who liked an earring she posted to Barneys. In 48 hours, the client bought a pair—and sent Neale a selfie wearing them. In fact, throughout our conversation, Neale’s phone has been buzzing nonstop. She’s polite about it, profusely apologizing for the interruptions. One wonders if it’s her children or a work emergency. It’s the latter, sort of. As a largely one-woman operation, Neale isn’t just the designer and the business head—she’s customer service as well. Those texts she’s been getting? They’re from private clients. “If people aren’t happy,” Neale says, “they won’t come back to you. And my jewelry is about making people smile.” JCKONLINE.COM
the look
Q&A
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Asks...
RICHARD MILLE A few minutes with the engineer/artist/inventor behind the eponymous 17-year-old watch brand
IN AN ALTERNATE universe, Richard Mille might not have gone into the watch business. “In my mind, I had three options,” he says. “Aircraft, cars, or watches.” Looking at his timepieces— each an inimitable, fantastically complex feat of artistry and technology—it’s hard to imagine Mille doing anything else. Still, he hasn’t strayed far from his original interests. The cutting-edge materials he employs, elements such as titanium and carbon, are “innovations directly drawn from the automotive and aerospace industries,” he says. The Paris-based Mille is particularly passionate about cars—especially “the golden age of motor racing, from the ’60s through the ’70s.” (Note the photo of him in one of his vintage cars at the Chantilly Arts + Elegance Richard Mille Concours d’Elegance.) His brand’s hashtag, appropriately, is #ARacingMachineontheWrist. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 67 Number of years in the biz: More than 40. Number of employees you oversee: Around 400 with all the Richard Mille boutiques, factory, regional offices, and head office. Family and pets: My wife, seven children, horses, ducks, geese, fish, three cats, and a dog. Describe your personal style: I do not adhere to a single style; I follow my instincts and moods to create my own style. First watch you ever designed: I was at Matra Horlogerie, on a team in charge of special projects: We had fun creating watches SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
RM 051 Phoenix–Michelle Yeoh (seen on Yeoh in Crazy Rich Asians)
RM 031 High Performance (limited to 10 platinum pieces)
for astronauts like Patrick Baudry and Jean-Loup Chrétien, Russian cosmonauts, and explorer Jean-Louis Etienne, who was preparing to cross Antarctica. Timepiece you’re most proud of: The very first RM 001 from 2001 will always represent a special moment. It was the beginning of a great adventure. Best advice you ever received: “Recognize what you believe in, and do not deviate from the path you have chosen to follow. Dare to believe in your ideas and…learn to defend them independently of what others say or think about them.” Worst advice: When a person says something is impossible. First job ever: I used to wash the neighbors’ cars to earn extra pocket money when I was a child. If you weren’t making watches, what would you be doing? I would work in the aircraft or automobile industry. I love everything that is about technicity and design. Watch you’re wearing right now: The RM 60-01 regatta watch on a yellow strap. On your desk right now: Model cars, plane and car composites, an ejector seat for a fighter aircraft. Exercise regimen: Thirty minutes of sport and stretching every morning [and] 20 minutes under the shower. I start with tepid water, then I go to very hot water, and I finish with very cold water. Always. A good combination to be in good shape. What did you have for breakfast? Fruit, yogurt, and a double espresso. I love to take time to have my breakfast. Guilty pleasure: M&M’s because they are delicious and addictive. Drink (daytime/evening): A really great red wine, or a Negroni. First website you check every day: Motorsport.com, to get an overview of the current racing events and results. Scent: Habit Rouge by Guerlain. How do you unwind? A 20-minute nap—not a minute more—every day. Favorite movie: I like to remember the movie by Luis Buñuel, The Phantom of Liberty; it’s a rather surrealist film. Personal motto: “If you are not 110 percent passionate about your goals, then you cannot achieve success in what you want.” JCKONLINE.COM
MILLE: WEE KHIM; M&M’S: SHUTTERSTOCK; AIRPLANE: STEPHAN ZIRWES/GETTY; THE PHANTOM OF LIBERTY: © 20TH CENTURY FOX FILM CORP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION
RM 60-01 regatta on a black rubber strap
source 800-972-1162
a place of origin. a supplier. AGTA Members are your ethical resource for all links along the jewelry supply chain – mine to market. Join us at the 2019 AGTA GemFair™ Tucson.
info@agta.org
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SEE HOW WRISTS CAN TURN HEADS. Our Erté Collection is just one example of the brilliance of Évocateur. This unique collection of jewelry opens a whole new category in your store. Each piece is painstakingly hand-gilded with 22k gold leaf in the USA and lets a woman beautifully share her own personal story.
I N F O @ E V O C AT E U R S T Y L E . C O M E V O C AT E U R S T Y L E . C O M 203-956-0705 COTERIE September 15-17, Javits Booth 7027 JA NY October 28-30, Javits Booth 1044
©Sevenarts Ltd.
HAIR: SASHA NESTERCHUK/BUMBLE AND BUMBLE, KÉRASTASE & HOT TOOLS ; MAKEUP: BOBBY BUJISIC USING MAC COSMETICS/JUDY CASEY; STYLIST: NADIA RATH/FACTORY DOWNTOWN; MANICURE: ROSEANN SINGLETON USING CHANEL/ART DEPARTMENT; MODEL: YADA VILLARET/WILHELMINA; CLOTHING: SEE PAGE 79
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White South Sea pearl earrings in rhodium-plated 18k white gold with 1.51 cts. t.w. sapphires, $5,500, Gabrielle Sanchez, 212-473-8372, gabriellesanchez. com; white South Sea baroque pearl necklace in 18k white gold with 1.5 cts. t.w. diamonds and 115
cts. t.w. sapphires, $66,000, DSL Pearl, 212-575-9127, dslpearl.com; floral 18k yellow gold ring with mother-of-pearl, 0.75 ct. sapphire, and 1.14 cts. t.w. diamonds, $4,455, Rudolf Friedmann, 212-869-5070, rudolffriedmann. com; rose gold pearl ring with 0.09 ct. t.w. diamonds, $780, Selim Mouzannar, info@ selimmouzannar.com; selimmouzannar.com
FEATURES Photog raph by Gavin O’Neill
ENTER A GOLDEN AGE, GET TICKLED PINK, EXPLORE A G R AY A R E A , WO R K SOME WHITE MAGIC, AND GO BACK TO BLACK WITH OUR ODE TO PEARLS IN ALL THEIR M U LT I H U E D G L O R Y
18k white gold Spine drop earrings with Australian pearls and diamonds, $8,500, Samira 13, 310-652-1313, samira13.com; bow pendant necklace in rhodium-plated brass with mabe pearls, Swarovski crystals, and rock crystal, $3,630, Iradj Moini, 212-5949242, iradjmoini. com; South Sea pearl bracelet with 8.34 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds, $22,000, Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace, 212-988-1511, gempalace.com; Medusa 18k rose gold ring with South Sea baroque pearl, sapphires, and
diamonds, $21,000, Belpearl, 212752-6600, belpearl. com; Kristen cuff in oxidized silver and 24k gold with 24.82 cts. t.w. motherof-pearl and 0.15 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,960, Lika Behar, 201-933-7200, likabehar.com; Grishna rhodiumplated pearl ring with 18k gold vermeil and diamonds, $800, Modern Moghul, 361-239-8799, modernmoghul. com; American natural pearl double shank ring in 18k yellow gold, $4,720, Ten Thousand Things, 212-3521333, tenthousand thingsnyc.com
D O M I N A T I O N
Photog raphy by Gavin O’Neill St ylist Nadia Rath Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi
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(This page) White South Sea and Tahitian pearl necklace (in hair) in 18k white gold with 1.8 cts. t.w. diamond clasp, $54,000, DSL Pearl, 212-5759127, dslpearl.com; 18k gold–plated brass earrings with green amethyst, freshwater pearls, and Swarovski crystals, $795, Iradj Moini, 212-5949242, iradjmoini. com; 18k rose gold ring with black South Sea pearls, $1,980, Alessandra Donà at Gioielli Group, 914-289-0206, alessandradona. com; 18k yellow gold Multi Tahitian Bubble pearl ring, $10,200, Assael, 212-8190060, assael.com; 10k yellow gold cuff ring with Tahitian black pearl and 0.05 ct. diamond, $800, Hirotaka, 81-36256-9617, hiro-taka. com; 18k white gold ring with Tahitian
keshi pearls and 0.24 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,200, Baggins, 213-624-2277, bagginspearls.com; Tahitian and South Sea pearl ring in 18k gold with 0.97 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,300, Daniel Dilman, 800-7327522, danieldilman. com; white South Sea and Tahitian pearl bangle in 18k white gold with 1.03 cts. t.w. diamonds, $7,200, DSL Pearl (Opposite page) Four-strand akoya pearl choker with 4.56 cts. t.w. diamonds, $10,000, Butani, info@ butani.com, butani. com; 14k yellow gold akoya pearl necklace with large removable lock, $12,200, Marla Aaron, 917-9919246, marlaaaron. com; triple-strand white South Sea pearl bracelet in 18k white gold with 1.24 cts. t.w. diamonds, $18,000, DSL Pearl; Octopider ring in 18k rose gold with South Sea pearl and 2.85 cts. t.w. champagne diamonds, $8,500, Belpearl, 212-7526600, belpearl.com; Floating Pearl Ear Pin in 18k yellow gold with 0.06 ct. diamond, $720, KatKim, sales@ katkimfinejewelry. com, katkimfine jewelry.com
(Opposite page) Freshwater pearl Icicle earrings in 18k gold, $1,575, Annette Ferdinandsen, info@aferdinandsen. com, annette ferdinandsen. com; 18k white gold necklace with freshwater baroque pearls and Ethiopian opal beads, $17,600, Jye’s International, 415621-8880, jyescorp. com; Mahiya necklace with pearls and moonstones in blackened sterling silver, $3,000, Modern Moghul, 361-239-8799, modernmoghul.com; Baby Akoya necklace in 14k yellow gold with 18k gold tricolor clasp, $5,200, Baggins, 213-6242277, bagginspearls. com; Grotto pendant in 14k yellow gold with blue sapphires, freshwater soufflé pearl, and diamonds, $8,100, little h, 424-349-8203, littlehjewelry.com; Sagel pearl and diamond pendant (in hand), $2,800, Modern Moghul
(This page) 18k white gold pearl choker (on hat) with 7.4 ct. emerald and 3.8 cts. t.w. diamonds, $18,000, Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace, 212-988-1511, gempalace.com; 14k gold akoya pearl large hoop earrings, $1,550, Mizuki, hello@mizukijewels. com, mizukijewels. com; sterling silver necklace with white cultured freshwater pearls and 0.38 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds, $2,800, David Yurman, 888-3987626, davidyurman. com; 18k white gold Bubble bracelet with South Sea and Japanese akoya cultured pearls, $24,000, Assael, 212-819-0060, assael.com; 18k yellow gold South Sea pearl ring with 1.23 cts. t.w. diamonds, $1,725, 18k white gold South Sea pearl cuff with 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,495, Cirari, 212-764-2823, cirari. com; stackable white South Sea pearl ring in 18k white gold, $1,595, Rudolf Friedmann, 212-869-5070, rudolffriedmann.com
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(This page) 18k yellow gold Kobe Collier with 5.65 cts. t.w. diamonds and South Sea Burmese golden pearls, $58,000, Belpearl, 212-752-6600, belpearl.com; 24k yellow gold white pearl necklace with 2.8 cts. t.w. diamonds, $17,000, Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace, 212-988-1511, gempalace.com; golden keshi South Sea pearl necklace with 18k yellow gold clasp and 0.91 ct. t.w. diamonds, $22,800, set of two golden keshi pearl strands with 18k yellow gold shortener, $30,000, Assael, 212-8190060, assael.com; 18k gold Branching Coral Kasumi pearl ring with 5.8 cts. t.w. rubies and orange and pink sapphires, $4,200, Kimberlin Brown, 917-478-8441, kimberlinbrown jewelry.com; golden pearl Talon ring in 18k gold, $2,050, Annette Ferdinandsen, info@aferdinandsen. com, annette ferdinandsen.com; stackable gold South Sea pearl ring in 18k yellow gold, $990, Rudolf Friedmann, 212-869-5070, rudolffriedmann.com; South Sea pearl ear cuff (worn as ring) in 10k yellow gold, $425, Hirotaka, 81-36-256-9617, hiro-taka.com
(Opposite page) 18k yellow gold freshwater pearl earrings with 3.44 cts. t.w. brown rose-cut diamonds, $3,790, Deeta Thakural, 212-9447575, deetathakural. com; pearl and ruby lariat tassel necklace in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $24,000, Andrew Glassford Jewels, 214-402-4952, andrewglassford jewels.com; metallic pink freshwater nesting necklaces, $1,760, pair of nesting pastel multicolored freshwater pearl necklaces, $1,380, Gabrielle Sanchez, 212473-8372, gabrielle sanchez.com; white South Sea and pink freshwater pearl necklace in 18k rose gold with 0.4 ct. t.w. diamonds, $33,000, pink freshwater pearl ring in 18k rose gold with 0.46 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,050, DSL Pearl, 212-5759127, dslpearl.com; freshwater Japanese baroque pearl ring in 18k yellow gold with 5.7 cts. t.w. pink, orange, and yellow sapphires, $3,890, Kimberlin Brown; Kasumiga and South Sea pearl bracelet, $11,000, Belpearl
CLOTHING (IN PAGE ORDER): MESH TOP: MSGM VINTAGE; BODYSUIT: BERSHKA; BLACK DRESS: ELIZABETH & JAMES VINTAGE; BODYSUIT: BERSHKA; HAT: STYLIST’S OWN; WHITE TANK: ANN DEMEULEMEESTER VINTAGE
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THE GIFT OF FAB
Y O U ’ L L F I N D S O M E T H I N G F O R A L L O F Y O U R M O S T S T Y L E - S AV V Y CLIENTS—WHETHER THEIR BUDGET IS $250, $2,500, OR $20,000 AND BEYOND —IN OUR TREND -BY-TREND SEASONAL SHOPPING ROUNDUP
Photography by Joel Stans Prop Stylist Astrid Chastka Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi
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A BST R ACT EA R R I N G S (From top, all sold as pairs) Gold-plated brass Gazelle earrings with peacock freshwater pearls and onyx tops, $265, Lizzie Fortunato, wholesale@lizziefortunato.com, lizziefortunato.com; 18k gold earrings with 0.06 ct. t.w. diamonds, 3.65 cts. t.w. faceted and cabochon emeralds, and 8.49 cts. t.w. handcarved emerald beads, $6,500, Margery Hirschey, 303-818-6357, margeryhirschey.com; Nakshatr 18k gold vermeil earrings with 1.17 cts. t.w. diamonds and 23.8 cts. t.w. rubies, emeralds, and moonstones, $2,000, Modern Moghul, 361-2398799, modernmoghul.com; Double Moon Branch yellow gold–plated earrings with white sapphires, $250, Eye M by Ileana Makri, artemis@ rainbowwave.com, ileanamakri.com
GY PSY S ET T I N G S (Clockwise from top) 18k gold pendant necklace with 11 ct. Madagascar sapphire, $3,550, Ten Thousand Things, 212-352-1333, tenthousandthingsnyc.com; 18k yellow gold bracelet with 2.96 ct. emerald and 0.7 ct. t.w. diamonds, $22,000, Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace, 212-988-1511, gempalace.com; 24k gold Dylan ring with 0.35 cts. t.w. diamonds, $1,870, Lika Behar, 201-9337200, likabehar.com; 18k recycled gold ring with 3.2 ct. dark pink tourmaline, $2,775, Me&Ro, 646747-5779, meandrojewelry.com
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H EA RT S H A P ES (Clockwise from top) Large turquoise heart pendant on 18k gold chain, $2,500, Leigh Maxwell, 319-5737451, leighmaxwell.com; 14k yellow and white gold ring with diamonds, $2,420, Nancy Newberg, 866-3016873, nancynewberg.com; Evil Eye 18k yellow gold heart charm with Gemfields ruby, blue topaz, and white diamonds, $2,260, Holly Dyment for Gemfields x Muse, 866-301-6873, hollydyment.com; Kate collection 14k gold heart earrings with 0.09 ct. t.w. diamonds, $760, Shy Creation, 213-623-8900, shycreation.com; 14k yellow gold pink quartz ring, $1,200, Loquet, sales@loquetlondon.com, loquetlondon.com
M E DA L L I O N S/ O PAQ U E G E M S (Left to right) 18k yellow gold and diamond M3 True Love and NCL1 number clip with 18k gold Dotted Annex link and 18k gold and ChamplevĂŠ enamel Strength petite medallion, $10,140, Foundrae, 212-231-9898, foundrae.com; Mini 14k gold Starburst ring with Sleeping Beauty turquoise and 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,350, M. Spalten, mspalten@mspalten.com, mspalten. com; Zodiac pendant in 18k gold with single center diamond, $4,750, Established, 646-745-6831, establishedjewelry.com; platinum earrings with 3.8 ct. Laguna agate, 56.18 cts. t.w. lapis, and 0.94 ct. t.w. diamonds, $14,500 (sold as pair), Featherstone Fine Jewelry, 212343-0604, featherstonedesign.com; 14k gold open link necklace with Crown medallion, $6,500, Dudley VanDyke, 843-372-1177, dudleyvan dyke.com; 18k yellow gold ring with 17.45 ct. Persian turquoise, $2,925, Me&Ro, 646-747-5779, meandro jewelry.com; Ritratto 18k rose gold ring with 16 ct. lapis and 0.65 ct. t.w. brown diamonds, $7,700, Pomellato, 800-254-6020, pomellato.com
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NO BUSINESS LIKE SNOW BUSINESS H O L I D AY
S U RV I VA L GUIDE
I T ’ S H A R D TO T H I N K A B O U T T H E H O L I D AY S W H E N YO U ’ R E S T I L L WEARING SHORTS AND SANDALS. BUT TRUST US: IT ’S TIME. PREP Y O U R S TA F F A N D S TO R E W I T H O U R N O - FA I L Y E A R - E N D S A L E S T I P S .
b y S t e p h a n i e Vo z z a Illustrations by Leandro Alzate
ASK THE RIGHT QUESTIONS… AND FIND THE BEST SEASONAL SALESPEOPLE RECRUITING HOLIDAY HELP is different from hiring staff members during the year. You often have less opportunity to train seasonal employees, and they’ll be with you for a shorter period of time. You need to find quick learners with ready skills who are a good cultural fit. “As you’ll be providing little or less training than you do for full-time employees, understanding preferences and skills is even more critical,” says Carisa Miklusak, cofounder and CEO of the Cincinnati-based hiring platform Tilr.
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To find the best candidates, here are five questions to ask:
1. “DO YOU HAVE SALES EXPERIENCE?”
This one seems like a no-brainer, but it’s absolutely essential during the holidays. Employees need to be able to handle the rush while providing the best customer experience possible. For employees who will be checking out customers, also ask if they’re familiar with pointof-sale software, which can speed up the training process, Miklusak says.
2. “WHY DO YOU WANT TO WORK HERE?”
“If the candidate doesn’t express passion for the business or the jewelry industry, it should be a deal breaker,” says Marcie Merriman, executive director of growth strategy and retail innovation for EY (Ernst & Young). Ultimately you want to hire workers who are also familiar with your brand, adds Miklusak.
3. “DESCRIBE A TIME IN YOUR CAREER WHEN YOU HAD TO LEARN A NEW SKILL QUICKLY.”
The ability to adapt is one of the most important traits of temporary workers, says Janelle Bieler, vice president of sales at the staffing firm Adecco. “This includes picking up on the specifics of their project, learning the company’s processes and protocols, and meshing well with the company culture.”
4. “HOW WOULD YOU HANDLE AN ANGRY CUSTOMER?”
The holiday season is hectic for everyone, and chances are your employees will encounter someone who isn’t happy. Ask candidates to describe a past experience with an angry customer, and make sure their approach matches your store’s customer service policies, Miklusak says.
5. “WOULD YOU CONSIDER A PERMANENT POSITION AT A LATER DATE?”
With a limited amount of available talent on the market, a lot of companies look at their pool of seasonal employees as a pipeline for future positions, Bieler says. “Companies are able to test candidates out for a few weeks and, if the candidate fits seamlessly into the company culture and shows long-term potential, offer them a full- or part-time position.”
TAP INTO TECHNOLOGY FOR FASTER HOLIDAY HIRING HIRING SEASONAL HELP is one more thing for your never-ending holiday to-do list. You want to draw from a large talent pool and find the right person, but that can take time. Here are seven tools and websites that will help you recruit, interview, and hire people more quickly.
• CANVAS
• INDEED
• LIVE VIDEO INTERVIEWS
Undoubtedly the No. 1 job site on the internet. Post your position in its “seasonal jobs” category to draw from a large candidate pool. (indeed.com/about)
On this platform, interview via live online video instead of time-consuming in-person meetings. You can even hold virtual job fairs, and talk to several candidates during a preset block of time. (livevideointerviews.com)
• JOBSNAP
Looking for a way to target the next generation (and the generation after that)? On the Jobsnap app, employers post three questions, and applicants send their responses by video. You can choose to pass or move forward with the candidate. (jobsnap.work)
Do interviews via text—millennials’ preferred method of communication. Text in real time or use the app’s bot, which guides candidates through a series of questions. You’ll save time in avoiding missed phone calls, a pitfall of telephone screening. (gocanvas.io)
• SPARK HIRE
Spark Hire is another video interview platform. In addition to its live feature, you can have candidates record answers to your questions that you review at a later time. (sparkhire.com/tour)
• TILR
It may not be cutting-edge, but your own customer base is one of the best sources for holiday help. Send an email as part of your usual email marketing efforts, promoting your seasonal opportunities (and your employee discount!).
This app actually does the hiring for you, prescreening on-demand employees via an algorithm that matches their skills to your job requirements. You get to skip the recruiting and interviewing process altogether. (tilr.com)
TRADE YOUR TRUNK SHOW FOR A POP-UP SHOP THE POP-UP shop is designed to be an immersive shopping experience. Because it’s here today and gone tomorrow, the temporary retail event encourages store owners to get creative with displays and offerings. Pop-up shops also offer several benefits for jewelers, says Arielle Crane, communications manager for Storefront, an online marketplace for temporary retail space. “Pop-up stores are a great way for jewelry brands to gain more exposure, showcase their designs in a new, creative way, and—for jewelry brands that are solely e-commerce—to exist in a physical space that allows customers both new and old to interact with the designs in a new, engaging way,” she says. “We see a lot of success with jewelry stores who decide to pop up and build buzz.” If you want to try the concept, first set your budget and schedule, recommends Crane. “Envision the type of space you want,” she says. “Knowing your space requirements, including amenities, will help you narrow down your search and save you time.”
MAKE A CYBER MONDAY LIST (AND CHECK IT TWICE)
IS YOUR WEBSITE ready for Nov. 26, 2018? Better known as Cyber Monday, the Monday after Thanksgiving is also the internet’s biggest shopping day, and you need to be ready, says Matthew Rhodus, director and industry principal for retail at the business software provider Oracle NetSuite. “The most important thing is to not wait—start now,” Rhodus says. “There is no substitute for preparation. So much is riding on these few days of the year that it’s key to make sure you are
Because pop-ups are a hot trend, Crane says it can be easy to find stores and opportunities. A quick internet search will likely result in several options. Just make sure the location fits your end goals. If you want to attract a lot of customers, try popping up in a high–foot traffic area or piggybacking off existing traffic at popular store centers, suggests Crane. If you’re after a unique experience for your customers, take into consideration which neighborhood will help reflect that, she says. Give a lot of thought to your design. Part of the charm of a pop-up is that it’s temporary, and that allows you to get creative. The more out-of-the-box your ideas are, the bigger buzz you’ll create. Approach your first pop-up as a learning experience, keeping notes on what worked and what didn’t so you’ll be prepared for the next time, Crane says. “The best part is that you can host multiple pop-up stores in the future, so you can continue to adapt and grow your pop-up and brand strategy.”
repping for this months p ahead of time.” Here’s a checklist of tasks to get you on track for big post–Turkey Day sales:
1. IDENTIFY YOUR TARGET MARKET.
Determine which customer segment you want to target, and construct your marketing campaign around that, Rhodus says. “Bring in elements of past purchase history into that planning,” he adds. “Not everyone will jump at Cyber Monday, and it might not be worth spending effort trying to convert them.”
2. PLAN YOUR HOLIDAY SALES.
Plan and organize the sales and promotions you will be holding. Confirm that you have enough inventory to fulfill orders; nothing is worse than a disappointed customer.
3. PREPARE YOUR WEBSITE.
Touch base with your hosting provider to ensure the company makes appropriate adjustments to accommodate an increase in traffic, says Zavida Mangaru, executive vice president of product strategy and innovation at North American Bancard. “If you host the website
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service training in St. Louis. “Providing excellent customer service will increase the chances that the shopper will not only continue to give your store return business, but [also] recommend you to family and friends.” Here are five ways to turn seasonal shoppers into repeat customers.
1. FOLLOW UP AFTER A PURCHASE.
TURN YEAR-END SHOPPERS INTO YEAR-ROUND CUSTOMERS on your own server, you can test its load capacity with tools like LoadImpact.com.”
4. TEST AND TEST AGAIN.
“Make sure that page loads, banner content, hero images, item uploads, and other pieces of your site all work as expected,” Rhodus says. “It’s critical to test many times between now and November.” If your site can’t handle the load, you want to know now.
5. OPTIMIZE FOR MOBILE. The number of mobile shoppers has increased dramatically, accounting for 63.5 percent of
e-commerce sales, according to market research firm eMarketer. Optimizing your online store for a fluid mobile interaction is critical in today’s high-speed retail environments, Mangaru says.
6. EXPAND YOUR PAYMENT OPTIONS. Payment methods for consumers are more abundant and diverse than ever. “The usage of mobile wallets like Apple Pay, Masterpass, Alipay, and more is becoming more frequent,” Mangaru says. “Make sure you are familiar [with] and prepared to accept the evolving payment forms that your target demographic prefers.”
THE HOLIDAY SEASON sends a greater than usual number of people through your door and to your website. And wouldn’t it be great if those people stopped by more often? While the season can be stressful and hectic, the holidays provide retailers with an opportunity to start new relationships and demonstrate outstanding customer service. More business is lost due to poor service and poor treatment than poor p roduct, says Nancy Friedman, founder and president of Telephone Doctor customer
7. PREVENT FRAUD.
The pace of sales on Cyber Monday provides criminals with opportunities to slip through the cracks. But don’t make the mistake of ignoring the customer experience, says Michael Reitblat, cofounder and CEO of Forter, which provides fraudprevention solutions to the jewelry industry. Consider fraud-prevention software that can identify problems in real time, via means such as behavioral analysis and machine learning. “A technology-driven and scalable solution will ensure that fraudsters are stopped in their tracks and legitimate shoppers receive their goods,” Reitblat says, “even on the busiest shopping day of the year.”
Don’t overlook the power of saying “thank you.” Send a personalized note to let your customers know you appreciate their business. You can also call them after the holidays to see if they’re enjoying their purchases.
2. PROMOTE YOUR EMAIL LIST.
Give a discount or free gift to customers who sign up for your email list during their transaction. This provides you with permission to contact them throughout the year with news or offers. Keep them engaged by sending emails that do more than just promote your business; share valuable content that’s educational and entertaining.
3. CREATE A LOYALTY PROGRAM.
Offer a discount or free gift after customers spend a certain amount of money in your store. Their holiday purchases will put them on track to earning rewards, and they might take advantage of the savings for their next jewelry purchase.
4. INVITE CUSTOMERS TO VISIT YOUR SOCIAL MEDIA PAGES.
Add your social media pages to your receipts or packaging, and ask customers to visit you there. Make sure your pages are filled with colorful content and encourage customers to share their own photos. Be sure to tout promotions or sales and offer a discount to followers.
5. OFFER CLEANING OR BATTERY REPLACEMENTS.
Invite customers to bring their jewelry and watches back to you for cleaning or battery replacement. You can provide the service for free to those who sign up for your email list or loyalty program, or to people who follow you on social media.
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Rep AIRS ORDER YOU R
IF IT’S BROKE, NO PROBLEM! THERE IS MAJOR MONEY TO BE MADE IN RESIZING, REFINISHING & RESETTING. b y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d
ASON LEMAIRE, DIRECTOR of tools at Stuller, the Lafayette, La.–based jewelry and supplies manufacturer, has a stock question he often asks jewelers: “When was the last time you walked into a Goodyear and tried to negotiate the labor price of putting on a new set of tires?” The answer, of course, is “never.” And the question is designed to illustrate how not charging customers uniformly for repair work makes little sense. As does neglecting to factor labor hours, overhead costs, and appropriate markups into final repair prices, he contends. Lemaire, like many other industry professionals who consult with bench jewelers and store proprietors, says the business opportunity in repairs is immense—but is too often sidelined by independent jewelers. David Geller, a former bench jeweler who in 2000 authored the book most jewelers consider to be the definitive pricing guide for jewelry repairs, Geller’s Blue Book to Jewelry Repair & Design (jewelerprofit.com/blue_book.html ), intimately understands the
(THIS PAGE) COURTESY OF STULLER; (OPPOSITE) GALLERY STOCK
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Left: a variety of hand-held tools and equipment for bench jewelers, all by Stuller
dangers of chronic discounting. Geller’s been off the bench since 1999, but in the 1980s, he almost went out of business—and at one point owed the IRS $65,000—because his shop was consistently undercharging for repair jobs, which composed the bulk of the store’s services. Repairs, when properly priced, can be a lifeboat— and even a boon—for independent jewelers, according to Geller. “If you give 10 people your best sales pitch, three or four people will buy, and 70 percent will walk out and buy nothing,” he explains. “But when a jeweler tells a customer what it costs to fix a ring, no matter the price, 9 or 10 out of 10 customers will buy.” Odds rarely get that good in retailing. Here’s how to make sure your store is seizing the opportunities in repairs.
ESTABLISH TRUST Who do you go to when you need to fix a family heirloom? The best. That’s what renders the repair business “less price-sensitive and more trust- sensitive,” says Lemaire. “People are coming in with Grandma’s ring, so they really don’t want to go to the discount jewelry store. They want someone who knows how to fix it.” But that trust is often eroded on first contact, courtesy of a salesperson who’s not trained in the language or logistics of jewelry repair. “Lack of training is a major issue in jewelry stores when it comes to repairs,” says Ross Wesdorp, director of sales at Jewel-Craft, one of the largest business-to-business repair workshops in the United States. “Stores often don’t train staffers who take in repairs, and that hurts them. If you can tell someone on the spot what has to be done and how much it’s going to cost, that’s so much better than having to call them later and say, ‘You know what? We were wrong about that cost.’ That takes a [toll] on the relationship.”
“People are coming in with Grandma’s ring, so they really don’t want to go to the discount jewelry store. They want someone who knows how to fix it.” “Front-line salespeople are often not bench e xperts,” Lemaire adds. “And by having them intake repair, you often leave a lot of money on the table.”
Establishing a relationship with a repair workshop such as JewelCraft, which repairs approximately 10,000 pieces a week in its Erlanger, Ky., facility, makes it easier to be a yes-person. “We have all the fun toys here,” Wesdorp says, detailing the vast array of mechanical and digital machinery under Jewel-Craft’s roof. “We can do those repairs jewelry store owners don’t want to do, and make sure they don’t have to pass on them.”
PUT SALES IN YOUR SERVICE
PRICE IT RIGHT
When it comes to repairs, savvy retailers don’t sell the fix—they sell the restoration. Getting your customers to envision their finished piece, gleaming and reborn, is key to closing service tickets. Geller’s longtime sales approach is a masterstroke in timeless salesmanship. “If a customer says, ‘Wow, $125 is a lot to fix this ring,’ you say, ‘I know you think sizing this ring is simple, but we’re going to do an excellent job with that repair; we’re going to check and tighten every stone, guarantee our work for a year, and refinish the entire piece to make it look like the day your husband gave it to you. My jeweler’s been doing this for 30 years. You do want that kind of expertise, don’t you?’ ”
So, what’s the correct price for a repair job? The short answer is an amount that mathematically factors in costs and leaves you with profit. The most financially successful jewelers that Lemaire has met in his many bench workshops “have all adopted Geller’s Blue Book pricing structure,” he says. “It’s a pricey book [$399], but it pays for itself very quickly.” Geller initially compiled the book of listings, which he says he updates “every couple of years,” to save his own business—and now selling the book is his main gig (along with advising jewelers on money matters and QuickBooks accounting software). “Jewelers don’t know how much to charge because they don’t understand how much repairs cost,” he says. And both he and Lemaire say those costs far exceed materials and labor. “A lot of jewelers are very aware of the $30 piece of stock they’re putting into a ring, and they charge for that,” Lemaire says. “But they’re forgetting about the $60,000 a year they pay their jewelers, and the light bill, and the store insurance.” And let go of the worry that you’ll lose business by pricing fairly, Geller says. “If there’s trust between you and the customer, they’ll almost always pay what you ask for.”
—Jason Lemaire, Stuller
SAY YES Bench jewelers can be picky about what they will and won’t fix. And obviously, it’s not possible to fix every piece. But jewelry stores raking in revenue off repair work make it a policy to say yes to almost all jobs. “Jewelers pass on a lot of things,” Wesdorp says. “Many don’t work on sterling silver, or won’t work on anything they didn’t sell themselves. But if you send someone away who came to get jewelry repaired, they’re not going to buy jewelry with you the next time they’re in the market for something.”
M A L LS OF AMERICA
WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY 10250 Santa Monica Blvd. Los Angeles
JCK’S ONGOING SERIES ON THE SHOPPING CENTERS FINDING S U C C E S S A M I D A N E V E R - C H A N G I N G R E TA I L L A N D S C A P E
IN A TOWN WHERE FACE-LIFTS ARE DE RIGUEUR, WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY GOT A BILLIONDOLLAR VERSION. IT’S MORE THAN READY FOR ITS CLOSE-UP. by Chris Willman THE MA XIM “IF it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” has a corollary so obvious it rarely needs to be articulated: If it ain’t broke, don’t spend a billion dollars fixing it. So you might raise an eyebrow at Westfield’s recent $1.1 billion makeover of its flagship mall in Century City, which had hardly become deserted (unlike its soon-to-be-shuttered L.A. neighbor, the beleaguered Westside Pavilion). Westfield Century City had already received a $160 million renovation in the 2000s. And from its very beginning, in 1964, it was an open-air mall, anticipating the urge that seemingly every other mall would feel, come the 21st century, to tear the roof off the sucker. But in the late 2010s, there’s a different conventional wisdom in the mall world: Gut it, or get ghosted. The amount of thought that went into the makeover was commensurate with the dollars, all aimed at addressing the dilemma facing any modern L.A. mall operator: how to keep up with the Carusos—that is, the Grove and other popular outdoor shopping complexes developed by impresario Rick Caruso. “This is the first time another mall operator in Los Angeles has been able to meet that very, very high bar,” says Peter Lynch, a retail expert at advisory firm A&G Realty Partners. The Grove and its cousin, the Americana at Brand, were built from the ground up as town-square experiences, like Disneyland’s Main Street USA. Westfield Century City, on the other hand, is not a mall pretending to be a nostalgic small town. The goal, clearly, was to go for full-scale modernism while achieving the kind of cozy tranquility that makes you feel you could spend a few hours reading a book on a swinging couch, working on a laptop in what has to be the world’s most natural wood–filled food court, or communing with friends over the fire pit, in between—incidentally!—visits to some of the world’s choosiest and most exclusive retailers. The unique space is largely the work of renowned designer Kelly Wearstler, who collaborated with OJB Landscape Architecture and Westfield’s design
“Having only real materials gives the spaces a sense of texture and permanence.” —Kelly Wearstler
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY (2); MARION BRENNER/COURTESY OJB LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE (2)
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OJB Landscape Architecture has also designed outdoor spaces such as Houston’s Levy Park, L.A.’s Playa Vista Central Park, and the Park at Lakeshore East in Chicago.
team. Wearstler, whom The New Yorker called “the presiding grande dame of West Coast interior design,” had never worked on a mall before, which she considered a plus in this revamp. “Anything seemed possible, since we weren’t hampered by preexisting ideas of what a shopping center should be. Our intention was to make the mall feel residential,” says Wearstler, whose experience with boutique hotels shines through. The desire to make “the interior spaces feel truly and authentically Californian” meant “lush landscaping and really beautiful artisanal materials as well as real materials, such as stone and wood. It speaks of quality, simplicity, and the fact that people are meant to inhabit these spaces.” The remarkably spacious social corridors feel like an endless series of luxurious but inviting hotel lobbies, filled with wooden modernist chairs, native plants, and grassy knolls. You could almost imagine that high-end commerce came second, were it not for the 1.3 million square feet of retail generating more than $1.25 billion in annual sales. It’s a lovely illusion anyway, with the type A hustle of the shopping experience wrapped up in a curiously relaxing type B feel. Zara, meet Zen bliss. Is this a luxury mall—Rodeo Drive (Slightly) West, if you will—or a populist city center? Depends on whom you ask.
“There are only so many places in the United States that you can do what they did in Century City because the demographics are so unusual,” says Lynch. (He cites Orange County, California’s South Coast Plaza and the Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey among the rare other locations that can afford to reinvent and attract the toniest retailers.) But Westfield is eager to tout the all-are-welcome angle. “The high, the low—there’s something for everybody,” says Louis Schillace, Westfield’s senior general manager. “From the Gap and American Eagle and stores you expect in every shopping center to the unique things such as Compartés chocolates, the representation of the brands here represents the diversity of Los Angeles.” He has a point: Amid the various indie or upscale restaurateurs providing singular experiences, Westfield Century City does have a fairly handsome Chick-fil-A. What’s really unusual is the number of online-focused retailers, such as Warby Parker and Bonobos, here in the brick-and-mortar flesh. Even Amazon operates a physical bookstore in Century City. Then there are the high-end brands that typically have few or zero storefronts of their own: Take Breitling, which has set up shop on a luxurious curve smack in between Tiffany & Co. and Rolex. “Being the only Breitling Boutique in Southern California, this location sees visitors that are seeking out a visit to a Breitling specifically and have researched the location online prior to their visit,” says Thierry Prissert, president of Breitling USA. “However, we also benefit with visitors that might be stopping by the Apple Store and see the boutique and stop in.” (Even if it’s the rarefied brand of shopper for whom “Breitling” and “impulse buy” occur in the same sentence.) Lest the teakwood chairs and native California fauna accents make the mall seem too Edenic, there’s no shortage of tech. Raise your chin above the natural materials and you’ll see a pair of 100-foot-long digital billboards, like something out of Times Square, advertising Kim Kardashian’s pop-up shop. The technological advances start in the parking lot, where you can sign up for an app that will recognize your license plate and open the gate, or reserve a certain spot in advance; you can also text the valet to deliver your car to the opposite end of the mall from where you left it. “We know how important it is in Los Angeles to have a great parking experience,” says Schillace, in what may count as a local understatement. That may be the only catch: You do have to leave at the end of the day, since years ago, locals managed to nix the condo tower once planned to loom over the mall. Westfield is, in its artisanal/billion-dollar way, weirdly homey, but you still have to go home. Fortunately, there are myriad takeout options at Eataly, the Manhattan-born Italian food mall-within-a-mall that many consider Century City’s real marquee attraction. “Anybody that’s a foodie or loves authentic Italian food and experience would fully understand when they go in that place how remarkable it is,” says Eataly’s biggest fan, Lynch, the retail consultant, his mouth almost audibly watering over the phone. As Gershwin might have said: ’S wonderful. ’S marvelous. ’S definitely not Sbarro.
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
JCKONLINE.COM
AISLE FILE
EXPERTS SHARE SECRETS TO YEARS OF HAPPY MARRIAGER E L AT E D S A L E S
WITH THESE HANDS 20 STUNNING RINGS, FROM OLD-WORLD ROSE CUTS TO SPIKY MODERN SHIELDS
MODERN BRIDAL
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18k white gold Modernist necklace with 1.2 cts. t.w. diamonds and 0.9 ct. t.w. sapphires; $7,235; Ralph Masri; 961-15-66538; ralphmasri.com
18k white gold ring with 7.01 cts. t.w. diamonds; $30,000; Picchiotti; 855-570-9900; picchiotti.it
MODERN BRIDAL
18k fair trade white gold Arc en Ciel collar with 0.52 ct. t.w. created diamonds and 9.25 cts. t.w. topaz; $7,600; Atelier Swarovski Fine Jewelry by Paige Novick; 212601-2568; atelier swarovski.com
We’ve gathered 20 rings, from old-world rose cuts to spiky modern shields, in “Digital Assets” (page 100); then, experts share secrets to years of happy marriagerelated sales in “Before You Go on Your Marry Way…” (page 106).
18k white gold Small Bliss eternity band with 2.45 cts. t.w. diamonds; $9,600; Suzanne Kalan; 818-885-6400; suzannekalan.com
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS Prop Stylist: ASTRID CHASTKA/HELLO ARTISTS Jewelry Editor: RIMA SUQI SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
MORE: Joy Skinny necklace in white gold with 5.5 cts. t.w. diamonds; $32,500; Messika; contact@messika. com; messika.com
“We continue to partner with Sylvie Collection based on their exceptional quality and assortment “Sylvie’s style is unmatched; sheofisrings. always up to Sylvie’sdate styleon is unmatched; she is always to date on what’s trending and inupstyle in the what’s trending and in style in the bridal industry. Our bridal industry. Our expectations are always expectations are always exceeded…” – Josephs Jewelers
exceeded…”
– Josephs Jewelers
“Not only is the jewelry itself beautiful and high-quality, but also the customer service we receive at Sylvie is refreshing to sell a toproduct that lives just“It’s wonderful. It’s refreshing sell a product that up to its name and standard and lives up to its name and standard and continues to be lovedcontinues and admired Baribaultby Jewelers to by becustomers.” loved and –admired
customers.”
– Baribault Jewelers
“Sylvie’s rings are of the utmost quality; I strongly believe in this product and the repsare who worktosowork hard with and are so “Thesales rings easy when great atto what they do. The rings are easy to it comes custom mountings, and work with when it comes to custom allmountings, changes can be made not only and all changes can be made easily but easily also in timely ” not only buta also in amanner. timely manner.” – Leo Alfred Jewelers
– Leo Alfred Jewelers
by a woman, for a woman
800.992.3426
| sylviecollection.com
DIGITAL 1 ASSETS 4
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ANCIENT AESTHETIC
FLOWER POWER
Digital art by Alfredo Ceballos /
(From top) Diamond ring in 18k white gold, $14,850, Picchiotti, 855570-9900, picchiotti.it; Rose Orchard ring with lab-grown citrine, sapphires, amethysts, and diamonds in 18k rose gold vermeil, $1,380, Anabela Chan, 44-207287-5841, anabela chan.com; Lourmarin diamond ring in platinum, $26,500, Ashley Zhang, adeshieldszhang@gmail. com, ashleyzhangjewelry. com; diamond ring in 18k rose and white gold, $3,500, Yeprem, 96-1265-566, yepremjewellery. com; Hail Storm diamond band in 18k yellow and black gold, $3,450, Sorellina, 646-745-6831, sorellinanewyork.com
By Randi Molofsky
L E T Y O U R F I N G E R S D O T H E TA L K I N G A N D E X P R E S S Y O U R S E L F W I T H T H E S E I N S A N E LY S T Y L I S H ,
(Opposite, from top) Lavish rose-cut diamond ring in 18k yellow gold and platinum, $5,160, NikollĂŤ Radi, instagram. com/nikolleradi; cognac diamond solitaire in 22k yellow gold, $3,332, Rosanne Pugliese, 718-6246546, rosannepugliese. com; tapered Hex Shield diamond ring in 18k yellow gold, $5,470, Jo Hayes Ward, 44-790352-1427, johayesward. com; Old World Midnight Crivelli stacking band with diamonds and sapphires in blackened sterling silver and 14k yellow gold, $790, Armenta, 832-4869500, armentacollection. com; ring with fancy black diamond in palladium, $8,100, Todd Reed, 303442-6280, toddreed.com
S T U N N I N G L Y D E T A I L E D E N G A G E M E N T, W E D D I N G , O R ( H E C K , W H Y N O T ? ) E V E R Y D A Y R I N G S
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(Clockwise from top) Rose-cut shield diamond ring in blackened 18k gold with diamonds, $13,650, Jemma Wynne, sales@jemmawynne. com, jemmawynne. com; geometric diamond Crown ring in 14k yellow gold, $3,000, Jennie Kwon, 213-221-7556, jenniekwondesigns.com; shield-cut diamond ring in 14k yellow gold, price on request, ZoĂŤ Chicco, 213-489-1226, zoechicco. com; Long White Shield diamond ring in 14k yellow gold, $8,135, Rebecca Overmann, 415-466-2992, rebeccaovermann.com; Geo Princess diamond ring in 18k yellow gold, $16,000, Brooke Gregson, 310-745-9659, brookegregson.com
SHIELD CUTS
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104 (Clockwise from top) Tiara ring with rock crystal and pink sapphires in 18k yellow gold, $3,885, ARK, 646-745-6831, arkfinejewelry.com; Nomad diamond and opal eye ring in 14k yellow gold, $1,525, Michelle Fantaci, 866-301-MUSE, michellefantaci.com; diamond solitaire and diamond bands in 14k gold (sold separately), $6,075 as shown, Anna Sheffield, info@anna sheffield.com, anna sheffield.com; Phoenix diamond ring in 14k gold, $2,585, Ila, 713-7802828, ilacollection.com; Demi Feu diamond ring in 18k rose gold, $7,160, Fiat Lux, 415-748-2471, fiatluxsf.com
CROWN JEWELS
The Bridal Collection
MASTOLONI
The Most Beautiful Pearls In The World â„¢ mastoloni.com 800.347.3275
BEFORE YOU GO ON YOUR MARRY WAY… 106
THE WEDDING JEWELRY BIZ IS ABOUT SO MUCH MORE THAN SELLING CASE UPON CASE OF DIAMOND SOLITAIRES
Roslyn collection customizable rings in 18k gold and platinum; $2,100– $2,600 (without center stones); Tiny Jewel Box
By Amy Elliott
E
N G AG E M E N T R I N G S A N D wedding bands are the bread and butter of the jewelry industry, but are you satisfying the tastes of today’s consumer? Top experts in the bridal category say it’s time to mix things up. We’ve gathered advice from flourishing designers, in-the-know fashion editors, retailers who are doing everything right, and other wedding pros— all of whom have valuable insights into how couples think, shop, and make decisions. Given the competitive and fast-moving nature of the marketplace, it’s essential to perfect your multi tasking skills, customer outreach, and social media savvy. Ready, set, sell!
BEFORE YOU GO ON YOUR MARRY WAY…
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MONICA ELIAS
JIM ROSENHEIM
CEO / EXECUTIVE PRODUCER ELIAS WORLD MEDIA
OWNER, TINY JEWEL BOX
NEW YORK CITY “Being current and present in all facets of business, design, marketing, and media dictates the success of a bridal jewelry brand. I also think it comes down to thoughtfulness when connecting and communicating with consumers. We often see brands measuring dollars spent against actual sales. In today’s market, it’s about awareness, and the more visibility you have, the more consumers will get to know your brand. The programs, content, and activations you invest in to reach them will say a lot about who you are and may influence how consumers shop.”
WASHINGTON, D.C. “There are only so many ways to set a stone in an engagement ring, but I believe we have found an answer to this younger generation of brides who desire individuality in their rings. I think that when they ask for vintage, what they really mean is unique. So about a year and a half ago, we created the Roslyn collection, a series that encompassed Edwardian- and Art Deco–inspired details. Today, when our clients ask for vintage, they frequently opt for Roslyn rings because they allow the client to choose whatever metal, details, and center gem they desire to create a custom look.”
NATALIE FEANNY BERGER
BETH CHAPMAN OWNER / FASHION STYLIST THE WHITE DRESS BY THE SHORE CLINTON, CONN. “It’s critical to identify your target client. And providing her with an exceptional retail experience in your store is key. This actually starts before a bride even makes an appointment with us through her interaction with us via email, phone, or social media. In store, it’s important for the environment to delight all five senses. We pay attention not only to our decor, but also to how the store smells, the music that we play, and we serve our tea and coffee in vintage t eacups. Our goal is to create a memory when she shops with us.”
DIAMOND BUYER J.R. DUNN JEWELERS LIGHTHOUSE POINT, FLA. “We are expanding our bridal inventory to include more slender engagement rings, which are having a moment, as they pair with any type of wedding band or ring stack and seem to better express the modern bride’s desire for a polished look. I also feel that having sales associates who are prepared to compete with the online bridal marketplace is key. The conversation is going to happen, and we need to be consuming the same content as our customers.” Baguette ring with 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $1,095; Trésor Collection; info@tresorcollection.com; tresorcollection.com
JULIE THOM OWNER, VON BARGEN’S JEWELRY HANOVER, VT. “Our biggest drivers of bridal business are word of mouth and digital marketing. We are also w atching the interests of our clients to be sure we have an offering that speaks to their values and design preferences while maintaining our own priorities for the finest-quality diamonds and ring styles. For us, this has meant introducing more non-classic engagement ring styles, more fancy-shape diamonds, and vintage-cut estate diamonds.”
Geometric diamond ring with 4.54 cts. t.w. translucent green, cloudy white, and yellow-orange rose-cut diamonds in recycled 18k gold; $7,740; Melissa Joy Manning; sales@ melissajoymanning. com; melissajoy manning.com
RACHEL LEONARD EDITORIAL DIRECTOR THE BRIDAL COUNCIL NEW YORK CITY “In my 30 years in the bridal industry, the brands that have succeeded all have a specific point of view; you can recognize the work without looking at the label. Yet they are always evolving. They’re able to adapt to the marketplace while staying true to their core vision. Also, the s uccessful companies seem to have great working partnerships within. Things work well if the designer only has to think about design and the business partner is focused on sales.” Elite collection Diana ring in 18k white gold with 0.56 ct. t.w. round brilliant diamonds; $4,450 (without center stone); John Atencio; 720-445-5292; johnatencio.com
Endless POSSIBILITIES ever&ever® is a comprehensive bridal program featuring prototype samples where you can personalize each ring to match your customer’s story and style. ever&ever® provides endless options for your customers without the investment of live inventory. Learn more at Stuller.com/everandever. Stuller.com/everandever
800 877 7777
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AMY SHEY JACOBS FOUNDER / CREATIVE DIRECTOR CHANDELIER EVENTS NEW YORK CITY “Today’s couples are very savvy and have a lot of inspiration at their fingertips. They value experience, solid advice and options, and quick answers. They expect their vendors to have a strong digital profile—being active on Instagram has been a huge factor in attracting clients and winning their business. Organization, tech-savviness, and the ability to recognize and understand current trends are key. I also suggest following your competition; you need to see what your customers are seeing in order to speak their language. And did I mention quick answers? This cannot be overestimated.”
Coastal Crescent collection rings in 14k gold; $1,490–$2,390 (without center stones); Tacori; 800-421-9844; tacori.com
NAN PALMER OWNER / MANAGING DIRECTOR FACETS JEWELRY CONSULTING
JADE TRAU JEWELRY DESIGNER NEW YORK CITY “Keep it simple. The smallest change can make the biggest difference in a finished design. And listen to your clients—the good, the bad, and the ugly. That’s how you learn what works and what doesn’t work. Learn to be nimble and pivot.”
Astor diamond engagement ring and band in 18k white gold; price on request; Forevermark by Jade Trau; info@jadetrau.com; jadetrau.com
DENVER “Whether you’re a single-channel or omnichannel brand, a luxury or an emerging designer, you need to have the ability to manage custom requests. Because today’s consumer wants something that cannot be found on a pad of ring settings in a jewelry case. The more established bridal jewelry brands should reconsider their collections in this context, offer a variety of attractive price points— driving unit sales rather than dollar sales will be the most profitable in bridal—and invest in technology that allows customers to preview collections online before they come in to shop.”
SHELLEY BROWN FASHION AND BEAUTY EDITOR THE KNOT NEW YORK CITY “Right now, the most successful bridal jewelry brands are the ones that speak to consumers through a strong social media presence. The rising popularity of colorful center stones, yellow and rose gold, fancy-shape diamonds, vintage-inspired settings, and even imperfect, raw diamonds speaks to the millennial bride’s desire to stand out. The brands that adapt to this by offering nontraditional designs and c ustomization will thrive. The brands that are less f lexible— for example, sticking to chunkier platinum settings with round-cut diamonds only—will miss out.”
Platinum ring with 2.5 ct. padparadscha sapphire and 0.45 cts. t.w. diamonds; $15,995; Coast Diamond; 800-523-5937; coastdiamond.com
SALLY MORRISON CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER, LIGHTBOX NEW YORK CITY “The greatest hindrance to success in the bridal category is resistance to change. It’s no longer possible to live by the same playbook if we want to engage this new generation of customers. We need to take our cues from other categories—fashion, accessories, cosmetics—that allow consumers to play with the brand, even if they’re not in the market for an immediate purchase. This means delivering plenty of interesting, sticky content that engages the customer while she’s browsing and learning so she keeps coming back…hopefully until she’s ready to shop.”
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THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE
the vault 3D WAY The designer was keenly
PINK PALETTE The earrings boast 6.8 cts.
aware of how the geometry of each element influenced the overall design of the earrings. “The angle at which we set each gem was carefully calculated to maximize its brilliance,” she notes, “but also to accentuate the three-dimensional, undulating nature of the pieces.”
t.w. colorless diamonds, 1.45 cts. t.w. fancy colored diamonds, 10.46 cts. t.w. pink sapphires, 0.44 ct. t.w. rubies, and 1.68 cts. t.w. rhodolites set in 18k yellow gold.
WAX PLAN Chao personally hand-carved and sculpted the wax models for the earrings, a process she considers integral to her work. “I’m able to structure the piece in detail from every angle using wax, giving it a rich depth that a sketch could never achieve,” she says. “My design process is laborious, yet extremely rewarding.”
ROSÉ ALL DAY PINK ISN’T A color most people associate with leaves. But Cindy Chao’s Pink Sapphire Foliage earrings feel wholly organic, rosy patina and all. The design’s naturalism was largely achieved through artistic stone-setting—the gems were “arranged in a way for their color combination to further highlight the texture of the leaves,” explains the Hong Kong–based Taiwanese designer. Conjuring exquisite detail is all in a day’s work for Chao. “My creative philosophy is that every piece of fine jewelry should be a miniature work of art.” —EMILI VESILIND JCKONLINE.COM
the vault
PLATINUM
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Platinum Boomerang Lock on 22-inch platinum chain; $3,152
Platinum All Stone Starlock with diamonds on 16-inch platinum chain; $14,150; Marla Aaron; info@ marlaaaron.com; marlaaaron.com
HOT STOCK TIP CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION
LOVE LOCKS “Emotional hardware” is how fine jewelry designer Marla Aaron has described her collection in the past. And considering the industrial nature of her brand’s core style—an oval lock that elevates a hardware store carabiner to fine jewelry—the description fits. The creative evolution of Aaron’s locks now includes a series of gorgeous platinum locks with chains. The designer says she likes working with the white metal because of its weightiness and steely color, qualities that “make the word precious tangible, even on the smallest scale,” she explains. “That’s why I love platinum. It’s like—boom! This is jewelry.” —EMILI VESILIND
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
HOLY ADORNMENT!
Platinum Hatshepsut Lock with diamonds on 16-inch handmade platinum biker chain; $32,750
Batman was the pop culture inspiration behind this bold men’s ring from Swiss jewelry atelier Furrer Jacot. The aerodynamic design, also available in a diamond-studded version, “signifies the bat’s silent but precise gliding through space and time,” says Zoe Grillo, client relations manager for the brand, adding that the just-released jewels “are already a favorite among comic fans.” —EV Platinum Twisted Lock on 22-inch platinum chain; $4,803
Ring made with 25.44 grams of platinum; $9,594; furrer-jacot.com
NEW FEATHERSTONE FINE JEWELRY DESIGNS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/platinum FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM
the vault
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14k yellow gold Sparkle bar necklace with 0.3 cts. t.w. diamonds on 18-inch chain; $2,190 14k yellow gold Sparkler pendant necklace on 18-inch chain with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,903; E.L. Designs; info@eldesigns. com; eldesigns.com
Sparkler earrings with 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,618
14k yellow gold Signature diamond bracelet with 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,993
CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION
SPARKLE AND CHARM We can’t imagine anything more sparkly than a stretch of neatly aligned diamonds. And Cambridge, N.Y.– based fine jewelry manufacturer E.L. Designs clearly agrees. The binding design element in the brand’s latest collection is a bar shape that’s channel-set with diamonds; it’s aptly called the Sparkle collection. The five-piece series includes a bangle bracelet adorned with a row of 30 diamonds, two simple and chic bar necklaces, a tiny stud bar earring, and a bolder dangling earring. “We understand the value that design excellence and quality can make to the end customer,” says Peter Tonjes, owner and president of E.L. Designs, “and also to the jeweler who wants high turns.”
—EMILI VESILIND
DAGGER SWAGGER Melissa Kaye’s Aria Dagger earring—a slash of 18k yellow gold lined with colorless diamonds—has been such a strong seller for the New York City–based brand that Kaye recently debuted the dramatic, teardrop-shape Aria Jane earring, which she describes as “the Dagger earring and its mirror image combined and inverted.” If only every evolution were this elegant. —EV
HOW MUCH JEWELRY CAN YOU POSSIBLY SEE IN AN HOUR? SEE jckonline.com/topics/diamonds FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM
HOT STOCK TIP
18k yellow gold earrings with 3.75 cts. t.w. diamonds; $19,250; melissakayejewelry.com
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY STAY CONNECTED WITH
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The industry’s go-to online source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry. JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.
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the industry authority
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS
Show biz THE FLORIDA PROJECT
The JIS October show makes its triumphant return to Miami Beach Oct. 19–22 BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
B
ARRING A FORCE majeure, such as last year’s Hurricane Irma, Reed Exhibitions’ Jewelers International Showcase (JIS) October will return to its longtime home at the Miami Beach Convention Center on Oct. 19, with a raft of buyer-focused additions, updates, and enhancements. “Reed has invested millions of dollars in the JIS brand across the board, from signage to amenities, with the goal of all those components and partnerships that got developed
coming together for the first time this October,” says Jordan Tuchband, industry vice president of JIS Events. In an unprecedented step, JIS will take over the entire convention center, fresh from its $620 million renovation. The bigger space will allow the four-day show to co-locate with a nother Florida mainstay, the Centurion South Beach show, which is bringing nearly 100 luxury brands, including a new p avilion of Forevermark suppliers, to the event. JCKONLINE.COM
Necklace with 26.48 ct. pear-shape emerald, 53.61 cts. t.w. onyx, and 16.74 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $375,320; Siera; 213-623-6370; sierajewelry.com
ttendees will be able to shop both A shows with one badge, “making it easier for everybody,” Tuchband says. On top of Centurion’s arrival, “the Italian Pavilion is 50 percent larger than last year,” Tuchband continues. “The upscale Galleria Pavilion is 40 percent larger, and there’s been an increase in new companies and returning companies that had stopped doing the show. There are going to literally be hundreds of brands that will be new compared to a year ago.” Another neighborhood making its debut in October is the Equipment, Technology, and Services Pavilion, which is based on the ETS section at JCK Las Vegas and features some 25 exhibitors marketing everything from software to lasers to safes. “It’s a mixture of some new vendors and some that were already at the show but were randomly scattered,” Tuchband says. Overall, JIS October, the second-largest jewelry show in North America after JCK Las Vegas, is poised to be one of the year’s blockbuster events, Tuchband says. Between longtime exhibitors such as Royal Chain (currently celebrating its 40th anniversary), Shy Creation, and Siera Jewelry and a host of n ewcomers— including Ippolita, Le Vian, and Shinola—that are showing under the banner of Miami-based Demir Group International, a sales and marketing agency specializing in the Caribbean and duty-free markets, the show “is worth checking out,” he adds. That’s putting it mildly!
show biz s
BEST IN SHOW OW
Royal Treasurer necklace with molded glass, emerald, and 22k gold; $14,285; Anand Shah; 91-982-189-9008; Instagram: @anand_ shah_golden_jewels
MUMBAI CALLING The 35th india international Jewellery show was bigger and blingier than ever BY PREETA AGARWAL
F
RESH FROM AN expansion highlighted by a new 116,000-squarefoot exhibition area, the 35th annual India International Jewellery Show (IIJS), held Aug. 8–13 at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Mumbai, saw an increase in both traffic and sales, suggesting a positive outlook for the upcoming Indian festive season. The show, organized by India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), included a new invite-only “Prelude to IIJS” preview day on Aug. 8 followed by an evening of fashion showcasing the jewels of 15 couture manufacturers. However, the real draw was the new exhibition area, Hall 7A, complete with 800 extra booths.
“All the top diamond and gold manufacturers are in Hall 7…with extravagantly constructed booths, a spacious look, and quality buyers,” said Priyanshu Shah, director of A’Star Jewellery. “There is a big expansion phase in the Indian jewelry industry.” IIJS, home to some 1,300 exhibitors spanning 2,500 booths, drew more than 40,000 visitors from across India, up 14 percent from 2017. GJEPC vice chairman Colin Shah called the show a reflection of “the vibrancy in the market at present. With the Indian economy performing well, there is a strong hope that the industry is entering a period of prosperity.” On the show floor, the unspoken theme of the fair was “the modern woman.” At booths big and small, collections appealed to self-purchasing women with the use of pink gemstones and rose gold. Ghanshyam Dholakia, founder and managing director of Hari Krishna Exports Pvt. Ltd., said the company’s new Honour collection of jewelry (“to honor a woman”) was “very well received by retailers.” Besides always-in-demand gold jewels, bridal sets and jewels set with colored stones such as morganite, coral, and turquoise were among the show’s standouts. Newer materials like Italian blown glass in necklaces by designer Anand Shah and pastel shades of leather in contemporary bangles at Oro also garnered an enthusiastic response. Hot topics at the fair included De Beers’ new Lightbox lab-grown diamond jewelry subsidiary and recent changes to the FTC’s Jewelry Guides. “The [Diamond Producers Association] has always been clear that more fair and transparent practices need to be adopted by synthetic diamond producers,” said DPA’s CEO, Jean-Marc Lieberherr. “The FTC guidelines…leave a lot of space for ambiguity for marketers.” JCKONLINE.COM
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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY
TOOL TIME
“Typically, technology is really expensive, but you can get a chatbot up and running with very little investment.” —Melissa Bennett
“They’re literally determining how to respond, and they can also learn,” Bennett says.
CHATBOTS NEED HUMANS
LOOK WHO’S TALKING Are chatbots the best way to service your clients online?
W
PANUWAT PHIMPHA/SHUTTERSTOCK
BY EMILI VESILIND
E OFTEN ENCOUNTER chatbots—the catchall name for digital messaging software that interprets natural language (how we talk in real life) and responds with helpful information—as little boxes that pop up on our computer screens when we’ve dawdled too long on a sweater online. Usually chatbots present themselves as a know-it-all avatar, be it a bespectacled owl or a sanguine-looking sloth, and include a text box in which shoppers can type and receive messages. Their
primary function is to answer run-of-the-mill questions and provide basic information for a website’s users. Last December, a study by Facebook revealed that some 2 billion messages are sent between people and businesses monthly. And a growing number of those messages include tête-à-têtes with chatbots. The ubiquity of chatbots has a lot to do with the accessibility of the software. “Typically, technology is really expensive, but you can get a chatbot up and running with very little investment,” says Melissa Bennett, partner and technology director at Los Angeles– based creative and technology company Heat Waves. But should you? In a 2018 survey of 3,000 consumers by analytics software firm Calabrio, 79 percent of respondents said interacting with a human— JCKONLINE.COM
instead of a chatbot or digital self-service channel—is an important aspect of good customer service. However, 54 percent of those surveyed said they don’t think companies are wasting their money by investing in technology designed to improve customer experience. If you’re thinking of introducing a chatbot on your website, keep these realities and recommendations in mind:
NOT ALL CHATBOTS ARE SMART Chatbots vary in sophistication. Basic chatbots are preprogrammed to recognize specific questions and issues that shoppers type in, then respond with prescripted messages, while more sophisticated chatbots are powered by artificial intelligence (AI). The latter are doing so-called natural language processing.
Even if you have a chatbot responding to basic inquiries, you still need a system that alerts an actual human if a shopper becomes exasperated with the ’bot. As a retailer, you have to be reachable. Nearly three-quarters of respondents in the Calabrio study said they are “more loyal to a business that provides them with the option to speak to a human than those that only support customer service through digital or self-service channels.”
CHATBOTS CAN LOWER OVERHEAD Integrating a chatbot on your site means spending time and money; Bennett suggests working with a software engineer on this. But once operational, chatbots can be valuable tools for small- business owners because they cut costs over time. “A chatbot can siphon off some of the overall customer-service work and route certain messages to you online,” Bennett says. “It’s something I recommend all my clients explore, whether their business is big or small.”
Tool Time
THE GOODS
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SUPPLY IN DEMAND
FORMLABS CERAMIC RESIN 1 L
The Ticwatch E smartwatch has a battery life of up to 48 hours.
WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE
TICWATCH E Mobvoi, the Beijing-based technology startup that makes the lightweight, low-cost Ticwatch smartwatches, specializes in products that propel human/ machine interaction using artificial intelligence. The Ticwatch range personifies the c ompany’s drive to create accessibly priced items that can compete with luxury tech in the functionality department. We demo-ed the Ticwatch E (Express), a full-featured smartwatch that can track fitness and steps, monitor heartbeat and sleep, and more. —EV What we liked: Mobvoi is a leader in voice-recognition technology, and the Ticwatch E runs the voice-enabled Google Assistant seamlessly. You also have instant access to all the apps in the Google Play ecosystem, including the excellent Google Fit. The solid, built-in GPS is another standout feature. What we didn’t like: It’s a rubber watch with great fitness functions that’s splash-proof but not waterproof—so, alas, you can’t swim with it. Best feature: The device is impressively lightweight, and its aesthetics feel youthful and stylishly casual. The brand recently released a collection of straps, the World Cup Series, designed with brightly colored stripes that pay homage to the national flags of major pro soccer teams. This isn’t your dad’s smartwatch—but it also doesn’t feel too cool for school. ($159.99; mobvoi.com)
THE SKINNY ON INSTAGRAM’S NEW QUESTIONS STICKER! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
Formlabs, maker of cutting-edge desktop 3D printers, has invented and produced an innovative ceramic resin that jewelers can use to print castable parts with a stonelike finish—with the option of firing them to create a fully ceramic piece. The material was formulated in order to render designs in ultrafine detail. At this year’s JCK Las Vegas, the company showcased a jewelry collection by design studio Nervous System that was 3D-printed using Ceramic Resin 1 L—and its delicate, interconnected pieces depicting a deep-sea glass sponge were impressively detailed. “You can’t make superthin interconnected three-dimensional structures—they can’t be cast,” says Nervous System cofounder Jessica Rosenkrantz. “But the green state of the 3D-printing material is strong because it has resin in it, so we can make these super-weird geometries that are superstrong when they’re fired.” ($149; formlabs.com) —EV
APP CHAT
DANGLE FaceCake, a marketing-technology firm that specializes in apps that let you virtually try on fashion and makeup looks, has debuted Dangle, a jewelry try-on app. Dangle boasts tech that allows you to tap on a pair of earrings (from a swipeable menu on the bottom of the screen) to see them jump onto your ears, then sway and shimmy with your real-time movements. The app also offers an ever-evolving menu of celebrity earring looks—so you can digitally demo Hollywood’s most in-demand styles. (Free; facecake.com) —EV
The new Dangle try-on app uses sophisticated augmented-reality technology.
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Arch Crown Inc. Midas Chain
50 McDermott Place Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 877-643-2765 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com Enhance your 14k gold hoops with our Valentino fringe extensions. Our Butterfly extensions can be used with any post earring to transform your look. The new Midas catalog features these and brand-new sought-after pieces to select from. MSRP: $381
RDI Diamonds Inc.
2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com The Ariel Diamonds® beautifully enhanced diamond line is the best option for you and your customers. This program gives you the ability to offer a bigger diamond … even when the budget just isn’t enough.
460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: orders@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Promote Your Brand Name on Custom Tags & Labels. As a merchandising aid or advertising vehicle, Arch Crown tags and labels communicate your store’s unique identity. Once out of the store, they act as your most cost-effective advertising medium. Order in time for the holiday season. JIS Miami Booth 1649
Dabakarov
62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com “Exceptional is our standard.”
Sylvie Collection Earstuds USA
5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 Email: david@earstudsusa.com Website: earstudsusa.com This stunning, stylish rose gold diamond tennis bracelet has 19.1 cts. t.w. G-H color and si2 clarity diamonds.
JCKONLINE.COM
5200 McDermott Road, Suite 200 Plano, TX 75024 Tel: 800-992-3426 Fax: 212-472-9990 Email: cassie@spectrumdiamonds.com Website: sylviecollection.com This vintage halo ring features a 2 ct. pear center and diamond shank adorned with intricate milgrain detailing and hand engraving (0.47 ct. t.w.). Available in 14k and 18k gold, and platinum. (Ring: Style S1909; matching band: Style BS1909) MSRP: $2,665 (not including center)
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Gabriel & Co. Tel: 877-ASK-EFFY Website: effyjewelry.com
545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: mjgonzalez@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com
Borrowed from the boys. EFFY redefines industrial chic design with this handcrafted, 14k gold, diamond ring. At once a statement piece as well as a relaxed everyday accent, the link design makes this ring an instant classic.
Gabriel & Co.’s unique diamond engagement rings and bridal sets capture the true love and excitement of your journey toward matrimony. They will forever be a symbol of your commitment to your special someone. (Style ER12664R4W44JJ)
Le Vian®
Royal Chain Group
Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com
2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com
EFFY Fine Jewelry
Le Vian® reveals its latest ombré coloration in this Strawberry Gold® Royal Flush Orchid necklace featuring over 14 cts. Cotton Candy Amethyst® and Grape Amethyst™ and 0.88 ct. t.w. Chocolate Diamonds® accenting the necklace.
In celebration of its 40th anniversary, Royal Chain has released a fabulous, special-edition gold collection of new designs. Try these stunning statement rings with MSRPs starting at $670.
Stuller Inc.
Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group
302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com
24 Jewelers Park Drive Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com
Whether it’s a simple solitaire or a fancy basket setting, nothing holds a stone more securely than platinum. Be ready for holiday sales and browse our assortment at Stuller.com/findings.
Businesses like yours have trusted Jewelers Mutual for support since 1913. Contact us to learn how we can help you become safer, more secure, and more successful.
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
JCKONLINE.COM
PRODUCT
SHOWCASE Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com
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Shy Creation 631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com
Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere, all made in the USA. This beautiful 14k cross with 0.05pts diamonds is available in yellow, white, and rose gold. MSRP: $245
Shy’s latest diamond Eternal eternity bands are set with sparkling diamonds on a comfort-fit gold band. Soft to the touch, they are perfect for everyday to eternity. Call today to become a brand partner.
Andréa Candela
POSH Mommy Jewelry
Tel: 888-314-5998 Email: info@andreacandela.com Website: andreacandela.com Accented with genuine gemstones and diamonds, this Andréa Candela design marries beautifully polished sterling silver with lustrous 18k gold, bringing Old World craftsmanship to today’s fashion-forward woman.
1552 W. Carroll Ave., Suite 207 Chicago, IL 60607 Tel: 877-697-9265 Email: crystal@poshmommyjewelry.com Website: poshmommyjewelry.com POSH Mommy has always been a labor of love, built by mommies for mommies to recognize their strength and heart. Share the entire POSH Mommy line of products in your store, and create long-lasting and stylish memories for your customers.
Herco
Christopher Designs
833 Market St., 10th Floor San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-543-1580/800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Email: info@herco.com Website: herco.com
50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@crisscut.com Website: christopherdesigns.com
Herco offers a wide variety of 14k and 18k yellow, white, and pink gold jewelry. We also carry many items in 22k and 24k gold, platinum, silver, titanium, palladium, and stainless steel.
Christopher Designs impeccably blends Old World luxury and style with modern technology to create exclusive designs that include our patented Crisscut® and L’Amour Crisscut diamonds. When placed side by side with our competition, the difference is truly clear.
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RDI Diamonds Inc. Thorsten Jewelry 404 E. First St., Suite 1204 Long Beach, CA 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings.com Website: thorstenrings.com Back-to-back award-winning ring designs. Break the norm with lava and lapis inlay designs.
2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again! You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100 percent Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.
JYE Luxury Collection Costar Imports, Inc. Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com This engagement ring (Style R12648) with 0.85 ct. t.w. diamonds catches eyes with its unique octagonal halo and is set up to hold a 6 mm round diamond. The band has 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds. MSRP: Ring $4,200; band $1,650
Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
101 Utah St., Suite 101 San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com Every piece in the JYE Luxury Collection reflects the brand’s commitment to excellence by combining unique classic and contemporary designs and impeccable workmanship in 18k gold/ platinum along with G/VS+ premium-cut diamonds and fine gems.
Allison-Kaufman Co. 7640 Haskell Ave. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Tel: 800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150 Email: info@allisonkaufman.com Website: allisonkaufman.com Tickle your senses with this dazzling ring from Allison-Kaufman Co.’s new Champagne Bubbles collection, featuring 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds set in 14k rose gold. Complete the ensemble with matching earrings, necklace, and bangle bracelet.
JCKONLINE.COM
PRODUCT
SHOWCASE E.L. Designs by Ed Levin Studio 52 W. Main St. Cambridge, NY 12816 Tel: 518-677-8595 Fax: 518-677-8597 Email: info@eldesigns.com Website: eldesigns.com Our iconic Signature bracelet and matching earrings are each adorned with thirty 1.75 mm SI H channel-set diamonds. Hand forged in the USA. A true mark of excellence.
ESCAPE 6540 Alliance Dr., Suite 120 Rockwall, TX 75032 Tel: 469-646-9990 Email: contact@escapewatches.com Website: escapewatches.com
Artistry, Ltd. 8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: info@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com Artistry’s newest stacking rings are available in 14k rose, white, and yellow gold with amethyst, London blue topaz, rhodolite garnet, and 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds. MSRP: $630–$640. (Also available with blue topaz.)
Vibhor 590 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-869-5060 Email: peter@vibhorgems.com Website: vibhorgems.com
ESCAPE offers a full men’s and ladies’ fashion price point watch collection, with stainless steel base and Japanese quartz movements. Elevated features include intricate layered dials, mixed materials, and genuine leather straps. MSRP: $125–$295
Vibhor is a U.S. manufacturer of quality core diamond essentials. We offer a complete turn-key solution, including 18k (nickel-free) rings and other jewelry, in-store training, custom displays, margins, stock-balance privileges, sales incentives, fast shipping, and a five-year warranty.
Hoover & Strong
Stuller Inc.
10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com
302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com
Hoover & Strong has over 650 die-struck bands including hundreds of new classic, fancy, multi-tone, and diamond styles! All bands are Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our products.
Stuller’s newest brand of fine jewelry, 302™, features five curated collections and more than 300 different styles. Browse the assortments—Sage, Rule, Rebel, Seeker, and Innocent—at stuller.com/302finejewelry.
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ADVERTISING
INDEX
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AGS Laboratories pg. 45 Website: agslab.com AGTA pg. 41, 69 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alex Velvet pg. 39 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Allison Kaufman Company pg. 63 Website: allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908
EVOCATEUR pg. 70 Website: evocateurstyle.com Phone: 203-820-8786 Gabriel & Co. pg. 107 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250
Andréa Candela pg. 43 Website: andreacandela.com Email: info@andreacandela.com
Harmon pg. 36 Website: harmongrp.com Email: rick.arnemann@harmongrp.com Phone: 615-256-3393 Fax: 615-256-3464
Artistry Ltd. pg. 26 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208
Herco pg. 55 Website: herco.com Email: info@herco.com Toll-Free: 800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699
Christopher Designs pg. 96-97 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970
Hoover & Strong pg. 67 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997
Costar Imports pg. 33 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR Dabakarov pg. 4-5 Website: dabakarov.com Email: info@dabakarov.com Phone: 212-730-1888 Earstuds USA pg. 111 Website: earstudsusa.com Email: sales@earstudsusa.com Toll-Free: 866-327-7883 E.L. Designs pg. 65 Website: edlevinjewelry.com Email: info@edlevinjewelry.com Phone: 518-677-8595 Toll-Free: 800-828-1122 Fax: 518-677-8597 Toll-Free Fax: 888-677-8597 Effy pg. 35 Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Escape pg. 61 Website: escapewatches.com Email: contact@escapewatches.com Phone: 469-646-9990
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
Italgem Steel pg. 28 Website: Italgemsteel.com Email: sam@italgemsteel.com Phone: 514-388-5777 Toll-Free: 855-ITALGEM Fax: 514-384-5777 JCK Events pg. 6-7, 112 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 51 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 8-9 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 Jye’s International pg. 58 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880
Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN
Rembrandt Charms pg. 42 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811
Lightbox Jewelry pg. 16-17 Website: lightboxjewelry.com Email: hello@lightboxjewelry.com
Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960
Mastoloni pg. 105 Website: mastoloni.com Toll-Free: 800-347-3275
Shy Creation Inc. pg. 23 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749
MDJ Advantage pg. 38 Website: mdjadvantage.com Email: Dm@mdjadvantage.com Toll-Free: 888-500-4311 Toll-Free Fax: 877-487-2104
Stuller Inc. pg. 21, 109 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655
Midas pg. 31 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765
Sylvie Collection pg. 99 Website: sylviecollection.com Email: cassie@spectrumdiamonds.com Phone: 800-992-3426 Fax: 214-472-9990
Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 48 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Quintessence Jewelry Corporation pg. 30 Website: quintessencejewelry.com Email: pradeep@quintessencejewelry.com Phone: 516-439-5260 Toll-Free: 877-405-5588 Fax: 516-439-5264 Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 15 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Rand & Paseka pg. 53 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006
Thorsten Jewelry pg. 103 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com Umicore pg. 118 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 VIBHOR pg. 27 Website: vibhorgems.com Phone: 617-308-1580 Wilkerson pg. 29 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333 Zen Diamond pg. 47 Website: zendiamond.com Phone: 201-842-7698
RDI Diamonds pg. 94, Back Cover Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768
Kim International pg. 25 Website: kimint.com Email: sales@kimint.com Toll-Free: 800-275-5555
Copyright ©2018 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 149 No. 6 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/ August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.
Kimberly Collins Colored Gems pg. 32 Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com Email: kim@kimberlycollinsgems.com Phone: 512-661-8778
This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.
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SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018
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THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N
WE GOT YOU, BABE BARBARA “BABE” Cushing Mortimer Paley was destined for the fashionable life. Born to a world-renowned surgeon with sisters who married into the Astor and Roosevelt families (they were known as the “fabulous Cushing sisters”), Paley reigned supreme in New York society. After a stint as an editor at Vogue, she left to marry her second husband, CBS founder William S. Paley. Yet she never strayed far from haute couture fashion and fine jewelry, modeling occasionally and remaining on best-dressed lists throughout her life. In this 1946 photograph for Vogue, there is a haunting sadness in Paley’s eyes—though she is arrestingly beautiful in a rayon jersey Traina-Norell dress, strands upon strands of pearls, and a cocktail ring. Like this photo, Paley’s life appeared to be a series of contradictions. Verdura and Schlumberger were her favorite jewelers, but she wasn’t above wearing costume pieces. Her husband was a philanderer and prone to rages—which no doubt filled her days with heartbreak—yet she was posh, privileged, and everyone’s aspirational ideal. Even her enemies were awed. “Mrs. P had only one fault,” said Truman Capote, who famously betrayed her confidences, causing her to drop him as a friend. “She was perfect. Otherwise, she was perfect.” —KRISTIN YOUNG
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HORST P. HORST/CONDÉ NAST VIA GETTY IMAGES
Of socialite/style icon Babe Paley, Oscar de la Renta once raved: “Whatever she wore, she wore in a way you would never forget.”
©2018 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.
Not all gems come from under the ground. The Gemological Institute of America supports communities where gems are mined, working with the Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory to build libraries in Africa and helping artisanal miners understand the quality of their discoveries with our Gem Guide. These initiatives help make it possible for regional populations to take a more active role in the industry and ultimately help their community look forward to a brighter future. Our contributions are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls. The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology
Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu
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Enter by October 10
THE ANNUAL JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS
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Marketing support for entrants
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Winner featured on cover of March/April 2019 issue
DATES 8.1.18 – 10.10.18 Entry period
11.15.18 – 1.15.19 Voting
1.19 Winner/finalist notification
3.26.19 Announcement in March/April 2019 issue of JCK magazine
ENTER TODAY AT JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM All entries must be received by October 10, 2018.
SHOW THE INDUSTRY YOUR BEST! AMAZING EXPOSURE FOR ALL ENTRANTS ENTER TODAY!
SUBMISSIONS DUE BY 10/10/18
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WINNERS
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ENTRY CATEGORIES / / / / / / / /
Diamond Jewelry Colored Diamond Jewelry
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Colored Stone Jewelry Lab-Grown Diamond and/or Gemstone Jewelry Tanzanite Jewelry Pearl Jewelry Platinum Jewelry Gold Jewelry
/ / / / / /
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Fashion/Bridge Jewelry
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JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS 2019 ENTRY ENTER BETWEEN 8/1 – 8/15 to get early-bird rates: $575 for one entry, $495 for each additional entry. ENTER BETWEEN 8/16 – 10/10 at rate of $600 for one entry, $515 for each additional entry.
Ring Design
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