JCK 2020 September Issue by JCK Magazine

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

BRIDAL PATH

SEPTEMBER 2020

JCKONLINE.COM

H OW TO E NG AG E W I TH S O O N- TO - B E - MA R R I E D SHOPPERS. PLUS: 15 S TU NNI NG NE W R I NG S .

FASHION SLEEK

ME E T 5 S TY L E - S AVVY D E S I G NE R S W H O S E P O P U L A R P I E CE S WO N’ T B U S T YO U R B U D G E T

DECO BOOM IS IT US OR HAS THIS J E W E L RY B E E N H O T F O R T H E L A S T C E N T U RY ?

The future of fine jewelry is here now. And, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lab created.

Forever One moissanite outshines all the rest. TM

Behold its beauty.

For a complete list of authorized distributors, please visit: www.charlesandcolvard.com/trade-partners/authorized-distributors

Colored Diamond Jewelry Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice Norman Silverman Diamonds

Colored Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000

Pearl Jewelry Over $2,500 Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Personalized Jewelry All Price Points Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Rosa Van Parys Jewelry

Mitchell K. Jewelry

Pearl Jewelry $2,500 & Under

Novel Collection

Shy Creation

Diamond Jewelry Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Tanzanite Jewelry All Price Points Inﬂuencers’ Choice Best in Show

Setu Doshi / JB Brothers USA

Diamond Jewelry Over $2,500 Gold Star Jewellery

Gabriel & Co.

Tanzanite Jewelry Editors’ Choice Platinum Jewelry Editors’ Choice Jye’s International

Colored Stone Jewelry Over $10,000 Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Platinum Jewelry Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Graziela

Schaffrath

Colored Stone Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Nicole Barr

Colored Stone Jewelry $2,500 & Under Stuller

Colored Stone Jewelry $2,500 & Under

Platinum Jewelry Over $10,000 Michael Schofield & Co.

Platinum Jewelry $10,000 & Under Malo Creations

Gold Jewelry Editors’ Choice

Silver Jewelry Inﬂuencers’ Choice Nadri Jewelry

Silver Jewelry Over $1,000 Piyaro by Aiya Designs

Silver Jewelry $1,000 & Under Editors’ Choice Nicole Barr

Contemporary Metal Jewelry Editors’ Choice Thorsten

Contemporary Metal Jewelry All Price Points Inﬂuencers’ Choice Thorsten

Mixed Metal Jewelry Over $1,000 Inﬂuencers’ Choice Rahaminov Diamonds

Veniroe

Anye Designs

Gold Jewelry Over $2,500

Lab-Grown Diamond and/or Gemstone Jewelry All Price Points Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Susan Gordon Jewelry

Stuller

Parlé Jewelry Designs

Ricardo Basta Fine Jewelry

Diamond Jewelry $2,500 & Under

Personalized Jewelry Editors’ Choice

Mixed Metal Jewelry $1,000 & Under Maui Divers Jewelry

Gold Jewelry $2,500 & Under Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Mixed Metal Jewelry Editors’ Choice

Tekin Seyrekoğlu Jewelry

Lika Behar Collection

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2020 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS FIRST PLACE WINNERS! Fashion/Bridge Jewelry Over $500 Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Best Earring Design Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Best Ring Design $2,500 & Under

Parlé Jewelry Designs

Shy Creation

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry $500 & Under

Best Earring Design $5,000 & Under

Ary D‘Po

Shy Creation

Best Necklace Design Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Lika Behar Collection

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry Editors’ Choice Ania Haie

Men’s Jewelry Over $1,000 Parlé Jewelry Designs

Men’s Jewelry Editors’ Choice Gabriel & Co.

Men’s Jewelry $1,000 & Under Malo Creations

Joden World Resources

Best Bracelet Design Editors’ Choice Gabriel & Co.

Best Bracelet Design Over $2,500 Shy Creation

Best Bracelet Design Over $2,500 Inﬂuencers’ Choice Norman Silverman Diamonds

Best Bracelet Design $2,500 & Under I. Reiss

Men’s Jewelry Inﬂuencers’ Choice Thorsten

Best Price Point $501–$1,000 Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice Stuller

Best Price Point $500 & Under Gabriel & Co.

Best Necklace Design Over $2,500 Parlé Jewelry Designs

Best Necklace Design Over $2,500 Norman Silverman Diamonds

Best Necklace Design $2,500 & Under Shy Creation

Best Bridal Design Over $10,000 Editors’ Choice Marisa Perry Atelier

Best Ring Design Inﬂuencers’ Choice Heavenly Vices Jewelry

Best Bridal Design $5,000–$10,000 Inﬂuencers’ Choice Atelier by Noam Carver

Best Ring Design Over $10,000

Best Bridal Design $2,501–$5,000

Novel Collection

Gabriel & Co.

Best Ring Design $5,001–$10,000 Editors’ Choice

Best Bridal Design $2,500 & Under Gabriel & Co.

Ande Jewelry

Best Earring Design Over $10,000 Ricardo Basta Fine Jewelry

Best Ring Design $5,001–$10,000

Best Statement Piece Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice Rahaminov Diamonds

Parlé Jewelry Designs

Best Earring Design $5,001–$10,000 Editors’ Choice

Best Ring Design $2,501–$5,000

Liven Co.

Malo Creations

Best Statement Piece $10,000 & Over Staryou

JCK LAS VEGAS Events | Opportunities | Promotions | Special Advertising Section

JCK Show & Tell HIGHL IGHTS FROM THE FIRST-EV ER

JCK Virtual 2020 The Industry Reconnects JCK Virtual 2020 featured a full slate of programming that gave the entire jewelry and watch industry an opportunity to reconnect, find their network and reset their businesses. The first virtual event launched by JCK Events generated a lot of buzz, with coverage from Instyle, Forbes, Elite Traveler, Robb Report, WWD and other leading editorial influencers. It drew thousands of participants from around the globe, who logged in from their homes or offices to experience the best of JCK Las Vegas & Luxury online. Attendees were able to: search and browse over 14,000 product images, meet with exhibitors via video appointments, and watch 20+ JCK Talks sessions, sponsored by Jewelers Mutual Group, which covered topics to help strategize for an uncharted year ahead, as well as 11+ JCK Trend Talks, sponsored by GIA.

Inspiring Events from Home LIVEN CO.

“

LŪVENTE

WE’VE TAKEN THE PAST FEW MONTHS TO BRING TO LIFE WHAT WE ENVISIONED WOULD BE A VIRTUAL TRADE SHOW EXPERIENCE TRUE TO JCK. OUR VISION IS THAT IN THE FUTURE, WE SEE A VIRTUAL EVENT HAPPENING ALONGSIDE THE IN-PERSON JCK & LUXURY SHOWS. THIS YEAR, WE’RE TAKING THE LEARNINGS AND EXHIBITOR AND ATTENDEE FEEDBACK SO WE CAN IMPROVE UPON IT AND BRING THE BEST HYBRID TRADE SHOW EXPERIENCE TO OUR COMMUNITY IN JUNE 2021.

– Sarin Bachmann, Group Vice President, JCK & Luxury

Live Performance — JCK Virtual offered attendees the celebratory moments you expect from JCK Events, like a live concert by Michael Cavanaugh, Tony and Grammy nominated Broadway performer, on Thursday, August 13, as part of JCK Virtual’s evening events. He led JCK’s audience on Facebook Live through some of Billy Joel’s greatest hits and rocked the internet!

Designers Take the Spotlight—Virtually JCK took the runway virtual! A number of brands showcased their latest jewelry in a new, unique way through our ﬁrst JCK Virtual Fashion Show. Designs were showcased in fun, casual, upbeat and personal videos. Catch a glimpse at the works of just a few of the participating designers:

BUVIN

LAFIA JEWELLERY

KALLATI

GABRIEL & CO

DEE BERKLEY

Top Trends AT J C K V I RT UA L 2 0 2 0 DURING JCK VIRTUAL, ATTENDEES TUNED INTO QUICK 10-MINUTE JCK TREND TALKS, SPONSORED BY GIA, WHICH REVEALED WHAT’S NEW AND NEXT ACROSS 12+ JCK SHOW MARKET SEGMENTS. THE MOST ON-TREND JEWELRY AND WATCH EDITORS, INFLUENCERS AND FORECASTERS SHARED THE STYLES TO WATCH AND STOCK INTO 2021, AS SEEN IN OUR JCK NEIGHBORHOODS. SOME HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE:

P. HIRANI

CARL K GUMPERT

BEYOND FINE JEWELRY

ODI

Gemstones

Luxury

Bridal

Bridge

Vibrant colors take the scene! Garnet is a gem to look out for, with a broad color range and good margins.

Watch out for collectable designs with enduring styles for the year ahead, as well as convertible jewelry – items that transform into several different pieces.

Colorful center stones in gems are in for bridal, from sapphires to emeralds to pearls, along with two-stone rings.

Keep it easy and fun with layered necklaces, sentimental charms and hoops at a variety of price points!

S E E F U L L C O V E R A G E O F J C K V I R T U A L AT L A S V E G A S . J C K O N L I N E . C O M

WHAT’S NEXT JCK Las Vegas & Luxury 2021 We can’t wait to welcome you back to the Sands Expo & The Venetian for JCK Las Vegas & Luxury in 2021! Save the date to reunite June 4-7, 2021. Luxury will open two days earlier on June 2 by invitation only. LEARN MORE AT LASVEGAS.JCKONLINE.COM

New Diversity & Inclusivity Grant The JCK Industry Fund is proud to announce the launch of a new grant dedicated to promoting greater inclusivity within the fine jewelry and watch industries. In August, the JCK Industry Fund Committee announced it designated a specific grant for furthering diversity within the jewelry industry by supporting BIPOC initiatives. The grant will be awarded in 2021 with application submissions due in the fall of 2020. The JCK Industry Fund was created in 1997 and has since awarded over $6 million toward programs that improve the jewelry industry through commerce, access to education, as well as enhancing consumer perception of the fine jewelry industry. T O L E A R N M O R E A B O U T H O W YO U C A N D O N AT E O R R E Q U E S T A G R A N T, V I S I T L A S V E G A S . J C KO N L I N E . C O M / J C K- I N D U S T R Y- F U N D /

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@ j c k e v e n t s # J C K L a s Ve g a s

CONTENTS

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

THE ZOOM WHERE IT HAPPENS

100

BY AMY ELLIOTT

FEATURES 72

STACK THE DECO Carved stones, geometric forms, calibré-cut gems, inky enamel: ’20s style hasn’t lost its luster. PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENJI TOMA

THE ROARING 2020s We asked 20 big thinkers across the industry to describe the changes that will—or should— influence jewelry retail in the weeks, months, and years to come. BY ROB BATES + EMILI VESILIND

HIGH FIVE These fab fashion jewelry brands bring affordability to your mix without sacrificing style. BY BRITTANY SIMINITZ

THE GIG PICTURE How jewelry retailers can tap into the booming gig economy BY DANIEL P. SMITH

IT TAKES TWO Design collaborations are a smart way to generate buzz, reach new audiences, and drive sales.

80 SEPTEMBER 2020

BY AMY ELLIOTT

KEY RINGS Uncommonly beautiful wedding jewels for your choosiest clients

FROM TOP: MATTHIEU FORICHON; KENJI TOMA; (P. 16, BOTTOM) MICHAEL OWEN

In the age of COVID-19, the savviest bridal retailers have gone digital. Once you get a feel for the new frontier, you can fast-track your way to unprecedented sales.

CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS 18 COVER LOOK 20 JEWEL BOX

JCKONLINE.COM

5 things rocking the industry

22 FROM THE EDITOR 24 STAFF PICKS 26 FROM THE PUBLISHER 32 JCKONLINE 51 NEWS GEMS

How jewelers are transitioning to online sales during the pandemic

57 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER

Marissa Collections in Naples, Fla. 60 RETAIL THERAPY Since reopening, what styles have your customers been most interested in? 62 CAUSES TO CELEBRATE Presenting the winner (and runners-up) of the debut JCK Diamonds Do Good Awards

65 THE LOOK 66 DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Mignonne Gavigan JCK ASKS... Emily Faith Goldstein of EF Collection

105 THE VAULT 106 GOLD 107 COLORED STONES 109 TOOL TIME

The inside scoop on Patreon and Instagramâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Close Friends. Plus: the new Garmin Venu.

116 THE WAY WE WORE

SEPTEMBER 2020

The sublimely chic Josephine Baker demonstrates the enduring appeal of art deco.

107

Cover Look

RETAIL RESET

Brick-and-mortar stores have suddenly become screen saviors.

Tsarina earrings with enamel, emerald hydrothermal quartz, and diamonds; $8,400; Hanut Singh; 212-8106836; hanut singh.com

Caroline ring with 2.01 ct. emerald-cut diamond and 0.59 ct. t.w. baguettes in 18k yellow gold; $21,400; Single Stone; info@ singlestone.com; singlestone.com

14k yellow gold Zoe Fan ring with 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,200; Selin Kent; info@selinkent.com; selinkent.com

Deco bracelet in 18k white gold with 9.06 cts. t.w. diamonds, 91.55 cts. t.w. emeralds, and 13.65 cts. t.w. onyx; $35,000; Umrao; 212-575-4727

DECO BOOM

Is it us or has this jewelry been hot for the last century? Gold Deus bracelet in 14k gold–plated sterling silver; $49; Ania Haie; 866-2566151; aniahaie.com

BRACELET: KENJI TOMA

Kingston earrings in 14k gold–plated brass with cowrie shells; $58; Jam + Rico; info@ jamandrico.com; jamandrico.com

Protect JW original pendant in sterling silver dipped in 14k gold; $278 (chain sold separately); Jane Winchester; info@ janewinchester.com; janewinchester.com

(TOP) COVER ILLUSTRATION BY MATTHIEU FORICHON (RIGHT) PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENJI TOMA Prop Stylists: EMILY + TONY MULLIN/HELLO ARTISTS SEPTEMBER 2020

JCKONLINE.COM

SEPTEMBER 2020

the industry authority

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box 1

GROUPS There are changes afoot at the organization formerly known as the Diamond Producers Association. Rechristened the Natural Diamond Council, the miner-backed group will still run ads for gems, but it’s also turning its site into an info hub for diamonds. And it plans fewer potshots at lab-grown diamonds (“They’re a distraction,” says new CEO David Kellie) and more touting of earth-mined gems. “You ask most people that have a diamond, and they’ll have a story that comes with it,” says Kellie, who formerly headed marketing at Watches of Switzerland. “That is unique. You don’t get that with any other product.”

Diamond Trilogy ring in 18k yellow gold; $17,000; Karma El Khalil; lauren@megamega projects.com; karmaelkhalil.com

DIAMONDS

The diamond industry has long discounted gems with fluorescence because, well…it’s not quite clear why. A small percentage look milky or cloudy, but most look just like regular rocks. “It was like we, as an industry, decided [fluorescence] wasn’t positive,” says Rebecca Foerster, president of Alrosa USA, the American branch of the Russian diamond miner. “It’s gotten to the point where they are so discounted that you can’t even sell them.” Now, Alrosa plans to build a brand around fluorescent diamonds’ most unusual feature: They turn blue under ultraviolet light. “We want to make the blue glow a symbol that consumers can connect to,” Foerster says. “It represents this hidden secret, this inner light.” JCKONLINE.COM

5 Pandora x Millie Bobby Brown dangle charms ($25 each) and Pandora Me necklace ($175), available through December 2020

COLLAGE BY SHANTELL BATISTA; (DESIGNERS FROM TOP) LORRAINE WEST, MERVA AFSHAR, MAGGI SIMPKINS, ROBIN ERFE, PEGGY PORTALS, MELANIE EDDY, SOELIA, JULIA DE SOUZA; PHOTOS COURTESY OF ANGELY MARTINEZ; ROYALS: BENJAMIN WHEELER/PA WIRE/AP

ACTIVISM

There’s never been a jewelry organization for people of color, despite the widespread admission that they are underrepresented in the industry— until now. Spurred by the death of George Floyd in Minneapolis and in the wake of discussions about race and diversity in America, a group of BIPOC designers plan to start one within the next year. “There’s a lot of change happening,” says designer Angely Martinez, one of the driving forces behind the group. “[We want] to create opportunities for us in the future and to create other avenues for us to follow.” Read the group’s open letter to the industry at bipocopenletter.com.

JCKONLINE.COM

ROYALS

When Britain’s Princess Beatrice married Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi July 17 in an intimate, socially distant ceremony in Windsor, the royal wore two “somethings borrowed” from her grandmother, Queen Elizabeth II: a vintage Norman Hartnell dress and the Queen Mary diamond fringe tiara, the very one Elizabeth wore when she wed Prince Philip in 1947. The bold design, composed of 47 bars of diamonds, began as a necklace belonging to Queen Victoria, who gifted it to her grandson’s bride, the future Queen Mary. In 1919, Mary asked royal jeweler House of Garrard to turn it into a tiara, which she passed to her granddaughter Queen Elizabeth II. The tiara’s tenure with the Windsor women has been long and significant, but Beatrice wore the sparkling jewel with youthful ease and élan.

MAJORS

When Jared first picked up Pandora in 2008, some saw it as a signal that the once-niche charm brand had finally hit the big time. Two years later, Signet hailed it as a top-selling line. In 2015, Jared installed 250 Pandora shop-inshops in a striking display of the brand’s clout. But now, it seems, the charm has faded. Pandora says Jared will exit their once-fruitful partnership in the next year, though a spokesperson claims there are no hard feelings: “Our sales to Jared have decreased substantially in recent years. There is clear overlap in the location of Jared’s stores and our own stores, so the change is expected to lead to improved performance of our own stores.”

from the editor

Telsom ear crawler in 14k gold– plated brass with chrysoprase; $90; Yenaé Collection; 571-344-3848; yenae.com

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com SEPTEMBER 2020

IN THE WAKE of the protests that erupted across the country in late May over the brutal killing of George Floyd, the industry embarked on a much-needed conversation about systemic racism and how to create a more diverse and inclusive environment for BIPOC jewelers. While change this dramatic doesn’t happen overnight, there are reasons to be optimistic. For one thing, many white people in our industry are engaging in frank, uncomfortable, and deeply meaningful discussions about racism and the role it plays in our ancient trade. What emerges from those dialogues is hard to predict, but if you’re hopeful, as I am, you’ll envision a future like the one Greenwich St. Jewelers co-owner Jennifer Gandia, a passionate advocate for racial justice, described in “The Roaring 2020s” (page 80), a roundup of views on how jewelry retail will change in the months and years to come: “I want us to listen to all marginalized groups in this industry—give them a seat at the table or, better yet, support them building their own tables and follow their lead into a new epoch in jewelry that is rich in diversity at all levels.” The importance of amplifying BIPOC voices is just one of the realizations about the future of retail that’s emerged from this mad, mad, mad, mad year. The mission-critical role of digital

fluency is another. Prognosticators are saying that 50% of retail will be e-commerce–driven by 2025. The upshot for jewelers: If you’re not prepared to offer your customers a seamless experience, from your digital channels to your physical store, then you may as well start planning your closing sale (online, naturally). For retailers now looking to meet their bridal clients virtually, contributing editor Amy Elliott shares, in “The Zoom Where It Happens” (page 100), resources and strategies to take advantage of the booming love business in the age of COVID-19. Amy also penned the feature that accompanies “Stack the Deco” on page 72, a luscious still life showcasing contemporary art deco– inspired jewels, in which she explores the century-old period’s enduring relevance. Of course, the rarefied world of high-end deco jewelry isn’t the only place to find standout designs. In “High Five” (page 84), JCK ’s Brittany Siminitz profiles a quintet of brands making inventive keepsake jewels that also happen to be affordable. Like the earrings featured above—by Yenaé, a fashion jewelry brand cofounded by two longtime friends who met in their native Ethiopia—the designs in Britt’s piece are rich in storytelling and heritage. Now, that’s something we can all bring to the table. JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

lack jewelers matter.

SEPTEMBER 2020

the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 2

Moth brooch with chalcedony and Atelier Munsteiner– cut green tourmaline in 18k, 22k, and 24k gold and silver with diamond accents; price on request; Atelier Zobel by Peter Schmid; 49-75-312-5962; atelierzobel.com

Fausta Rainbow bracelet with pink spinel, scapolite, grossular garnet, spessartine garnet, aquamarine, and diamonds in recycled 18k yellow gold; $22,500; Debra Navarro; matt@ debranavarro.com; debranavarro.com

3 4

22k gold vermeil Lotus Ellipse stackable ring with champagne CZ and Lotus Marquise stackable ring with yellow CZ; $195 each; Pharaoun; wholesale@pharaoun. com; pharaoun.com

SUNRISE, SUNSET

What JCK magazine’s Amy Elliott is loving this month

Earrings with Bali star coral, keshi pearls, peridot, morganite, tangerine sapphire, green/gold quartz, and pink Peruvian opal in 24k gold vermeil; $850; Dana Busch; danabuschdesigns@ gmail.com; dana buschdesigns.com

Rose-cut sapphire bracelet in 18k and 22k gold; $6,200; Petra Class; 415-648-6337; petraclassdesign.com

“Bold and fiery or muted and mellow, these gemstones made me think of the ‘rosy-fingered dawn’ and sunsets spreading out over the desert.” —Amy Elliott, JCK contributing editor

JCKONLINE.COM

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

We’ve been spending our time hiking with our son, Nolen, along the Susquehanna River.

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com SEPTEMBER 2020

JUST ONE YEAR ago, I was e xcitedly riting my publisher’s letter for the w September–October 2019 issue of JCK, which marked our 150th anniversary. What a difference a year makes. As I write this in mid-July 2020, our world is months into the COVID-19 pandemic, a once-in-acentury crisis. There’s not a single aspect of our lives that hasn’t been affected, and we’ve all had to adapt in previously unimaginable ways. About a week before the governor of Pennsylvania issued our stay-at-home orders on March 23, my husband, son, and I were supposed to embark on a family trip to Mexico. After that, I was planning to attend the American Gem Society Conclave in Denver in late April and, of course, the JCK Las Vegas show in early June. None of those trips happened. The lack of networking opportunities has been so difficult, as it’s called into focus the importance of the “Starbucks-line conversations” we have at trade shows. It’s also just plain sad to not see the hundreds of friends we usually encounter at these most important events. At JCK, we’ve had to rework our publishing schedule a few times, adjust for a shift in revenues to digital (as the entire world has

been pushed deeper into the digital world by this crisis), and concentrate on creating a virtual JCK show in mid-August. By the time you read this letter, it will have hopefully taken place with great success. When the crisis began, a friend expressed his concern for my livelihood, saying, “The last thing anyone is going to buy in a pandemic is jewelry.” And yet, the desire for jewelry—and admittedly a reduction of competition for discretionary-income spending—has led to a relatively successful period of time for the U.S. retail jewelry industry. Through a combination of product with eternal appeal, savvy adjustments to the way we sell (digital, curbside pickup, in-store appointments), and an amazingly optimistic attitude, we’ve seen many retailers have a relatively—or even exceptionally—strong year. For all the challenges we’ve faced, we’ve stepped up to the plate and met them. The hardest part of all this is the constant uncertainty. While we remain hopeful for a vaccine and a subsequent return to “normal,” virtually no one knows when that will be. There’s one thing, however, I do know: I love this business, and I’ve never been prouder to be a part of it. JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY

t’s a time like no other.

Rand Rand & & Paseka Paseka

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Proudly Made Proudly Made in the U.S.A. inSince the U.S.A. 1951 Since 1951

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 151 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

U.S. ADVERTISING SALES CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

EDITORIAL News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com Senior Editor & Social Media Director EMILI VESILIND / evesilind@gmail.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI Contributing Editors AMY ELLIOTT / aelliott718@gmail.com BRITTANY SIMINITZ / bsiminitz@jckonline.com

FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON

C I R C U L AT I O N

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Chief Operating Officer / Reed Exhibitions YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 / yweinrich@reedexpo.com Group Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 / sbachmann@reedexpo.com

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JCK LAS VEGAS & LUXURY

BRAZIL/EUROPE/ MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01 fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com

Portfolio Sales Leader JORDAN TUCHBAND 203-840-5402 jtuchband@reedexpo.com

INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305 cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com ISRAEL RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@ reedjewelrygroup.com THAILAND CHUMPIA (AOR) SAITHAN Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7357 saithan.chum@ reedtradex.co.th CHINA/HONG KONG/ INDONESIA/JAPAN/KOREA/ MALAYSIA/PHILIPPINES/ SINGAPORE/TAIWAN/ VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106 fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedexpo.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN THOMPSON 203-840-5878 lathompson@reedexpo.com Special Events and Conference Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@reedexpo.com Strategic Accounts Manager JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Luxury 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedexpo.com Strategic Accounts Manager ANA CROSBY JCK Las Vegas 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedexpo.com International Sales Director ALEXANDRA WURSTER 203-840-5332 awurster@reedexpo.com Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, Essentials & Technology, Gallery, Bella Italia, Retail Innovation 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedexpo.com Account Executive NINA MANCINI Bridge, Design Center, Design@Luxury 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedexpo.com Account Executive BARBARA MURRAY First Look, Global Gemstones, Gem Pavilion 203-840-5820 bmurray@reedexpo.com

Sales Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Bridal, Diamond Plaza, Lab-Grown, Plumb Club 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com Sales Executive MONALISA DEPINA 203-840-5556 mdepina@reedexpo.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedexpo.com Senior Marketing Manager JCK Las Vegas AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedexpo.com Senior Marketing Manager Luxury MJ MCGRATH 203-840-5928 mmcgrath@reedexpo.com

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FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH Packed with substantial pieces and superstylish photos, Shelly Branch’s Particulieres (@particulieres.nyc) is a vintage (and gold!) jewelry lover’s dream. Think hefty chains, chunky cabochons, and sculptural designs from the ’60s, ’70s, and ’80s, described with an expert’s eye and staged to gilded perfection.

”A most stylish slab”: a 1970s textured 18k gold and lapis pendant sourced from Paris (sold)

For the fidgety jewelry lovers among us: an abacus-style 18k gold ring with movable diamonds (sold)

A 1970s asymmetric aquamarine and brushed gold Haroldo Burle Marx collar (available at press time)

The sinuous Sevillana cuff—with a rare oversize black jade center— by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany (sold)

Branch posted this anchor-link bracelet—“a symbol of chains that were undone“—on Juneteenth (sold).

A kinetic ’80s ring by British designer Garrard with spinning diamond and blue ceramic cylinders (sold)

“We are all stakeholders in an immense and fabulous industry. We have been challenged to evolve…and change for the better.” —JCKonline reader Susan on “New Group Aims to Be the WJA for People of Color” JCKONLINE.COM

the industry authority

SEPTEMBER 2020

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS

The direct-toconsumer digital fine jewelry brand Gemist

COVID-19 IS DRIVING JEWELERS ONLINE BY ROB BATES

N AUGUST, AT press time, the COVID-19 pandemic was still ravaging some areas of the United States, with many jewelers having to temporarily close and customers afraid to leave their homes. As a result, jewelry stores—even those that were traditionally cyber-shy—have increasingly turned to online tools. Signet just hired its first-ever chief digital officer—Rebecca Wooters, who previously served as chief customer experience officer and head of digital experience for Citigroup. “People are working differently, and they are buying differently,” Wooters tells JCK. “We think that change is here to stay.” A key part of Signet’s cyber-strategy: virtual appointments with company sales consultants. “Our customers can go on the site and say, ‘I want to talk to the store manager at Stonebriar mall in Dallas,’ and they can set up a video conference, and then they can pick up the item at the store,” says Signet executive vice president of store operations Bill Luth. “We went from customers not even being aware of [virtual appointments] to doing tens of appointments a day to now thousands of appointments.” At press time, Signet had booked more than 100,000 virtual appointments.

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A ruby, diamond, and platinum ring designed by Oliver Smith and sold in one of his store’s online auctions in May

Signet banner Jared is touting virtual weddings, which take place on a custom-built platform the store offers customers for free, no purchases required (though Jared certainly hopes they make them). Fashion jewelry designer Kendra Scott has introduced a virtual try-on tool, which lets customers “wear” the brand’s products using augmented reality technology. De Beers Group recently invested in Gemist, a try-and-buy site that sends shoppers silver prototypes. Even high-end auctions have gone virtual: In June, Christie’s offered a 28.86 ct. D-color VVS1 emerald-cut diamond online. The stone fetched $2.1 million, a record for an online jewelry auction. But it’s not just major players that are becoming more web-savvy. Smaller stores are holding online trunk shows on Facebook and Instagram. Many are now active on Zoom—the videoconferencing software that’s become ubiquitous in the age of COVID-19. Oliver Smith, owner and president of Oliver Smith Jeweler in Scottsdale, Ariz., has been doing Zoom auctions of vintage watches and jewelry and recently added a chat function to his website. He has been “blown away” by the response. “We sold $60,000 in watches the first month,” he said on JCK ’s podcast, The Jewelry District. “We sold a watch to a guy in Alaska that we never would have met, and never would have been able to do anything with, if it hadn’t been for that chat feature.”

Westime, based in Los Angeles, recently held an invite-only Breitling happy hour over Zoom for 30 loyal customers. Each was sent a kit with ingredients for an Old-Fashioned cocktail. A mixologist joined the call to walk them through the recipe. Experts are divided on whether, post-pandemic, customers will still favor these tools over traditional types of shopping. De Beers research has found that 59% of younger consumers still prefer to buy diamonds at brickand-mortar retailers. But De Beers executive vice president of consumer and brands Stephen Lussier warns that jewelers today need to make their presence felt in both realms. “It’s hard to imagine people going into a store just to look,” he says. “They go in with the intent of purchasing in advance. I think the connection between the in-store world and digital world will blur even more.” Oliver Smith (r.) with his store’s watch expert, George Reid

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

Q&A

With Graça Machel DBE and beneficiary Umazi Mvurya at a 2017 DEF gala

that we are now living through is the activation of so many young people. It transcends race and socioeconomic circumstances. There’s a passion among the youth of America for a better society, and the jewelry industry should pay attention to the passion of millennials, to the outcry for inclusivity and diversity. I think it will be important for the jewelry industry’s future viability to not be on the sidelines observing what is

3 Questions for...

DR. BENJAMIN CHAVIS IN THE JEWELRY business, Dr. Benjamin Chavis is known as a cofounder of Diamonds Do Good (formerly the Diamond Empowerment Fund). But in the outside world, he’s more famous as a member of the Wilmington 10—a group of civil rights activists who were falsely convicted of arson and conspiracy in 1971—as well as a former executive director of the NAACP and national director of the Million Man March. Here, he talks about how the jewelry industry should respond to recent Black Lives Matter protests (in which he participated with his children), whether the industry has a diversity problem, and what it all means for his association. —RB

going on, but to be seen as an integral part of the process toward resolution. Do you think the jewelry industry has a problem with diversity? I have been to the last 10 JCK shows. Over that time, I have seen a lot more people of color involved. That’s positive, but it’s not where we should be. I think the future of the…industry is contingent upon not only having more people of color as employees, but we’re also going to hopefully see more representation in the C-suites of major companies. What’s next for Diamonds Do Good? I think this is a providential moment for the Diamonds Do Good campaign. It has the opportunity to help shape the future in communities where diamonds are mined and produced, but to also help transform the diamond and jewelry industry globally. Diamonds Do Good can speak to issues that are now being faced not just in the United States but in countries around the world.

We have seen a huge outcry following the death of George Floyd at the hands of Minneapolis police. How would you like to see the jewelry industry respond? I believe the jewelry industry can play a leadership role in helping move toward more inclusive…solutions to the challenges that the world faces. It’s all about looking in the mirror, and companies and businesses looking at what we can do to not only prevent tragedies like these, but what can we do to help bring about a more just world, a more fair world, and a more equitable world. One part of the transformative moment

50% Chavis at 1995’s Million Man March

ALL

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(R.) PORTER GIFFORD/HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY

D S P L AY S

sales@boxbrokersgroup.com

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

Tropical gold-tone plated leaf earrings; $79; Swarovski; 800-426-3088; swarovski.com

COMINGS AND GOINGS Swarovski has named Robert Buchbauer, great-great-

grandson of the company founder, its new CEO as part of a business realignment. According to WWD, Nadja Swarovski will no longer head Atelier Swarovski or branding and communications, though she’ll still lead the Swarovski Foundation and overall sustainability efforts and remain on the executive board. Ernest “Ernie” Blom, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses since 2012, has resigned, following a dispute over a personal arbitration. Yoram Dvash, president of the Israel Diamond Exchange, was chosen as acting president.

Colin Shah Colin Shah, founder of Kama Schachter and Kama Jewellery, has been elected SEPTEMBER 2020

REMEMBERED

chief financial officer and treasurer. Dangi comes from HSBC Global, where he was senior vice president and CFO.

William W. Thompson, former

president and CEO for the

A.A. Friedman jewelry chain,

died May 1. He was 88.

Suzanne Miglucci, president and CEO of Charles & Colvard

chairman of India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council. Shah, previously vice chairman, succeeds Pramod Kumar Agrawal, who finished a two-year term. Vipul Shah is

since 2015, has resigned. Taking her place is Don O’Connell, chief operating officer and senior VP of supply chain.

the new vice chairman.

Swiss watch brand Ochs und Junior AG has named Marc Bernhardt its CEO. He follows Beat Weinmann, who left the

company in December.

Katie Hamian Christopher Designs named Katherine “Katie” Hamian its

Michael Richards Michael Richards, vice president of Underwood Jewelers, has been elected president of the American Gem Society. He takes over from John Carter, who completed his two-year term. Alexis Padis of Padis Jewelry was elected secretary; Larry Rickert of Jim Kryshak Jewelers was elected treasurer; and Georgie Gleim of Gleim the Jeweler was elected senior adviser.

Sumit Dangi has joined Jewelers Mutual Group as

Pandora has appointed Frédérique “Fred” Gouzard,

former global brand marketing director for De Beers Diamond Jewelers, head of its Moments division. Raul Duque Ruiz, a onetime global associate brand director for Procter & Gamble, will run its Style division. Jeerasage Puranasamriddhi, senior VP of manufacturing overseeing Pandora’s operations in Thailand, was named chief supply officer.

Lauren Thompson

Alexis Padis Bruce Lake has joined Vibhor

CLOSING

as regional director of sales for the western United States. He was previously sales director for Mémoire and Forevermark.

Leila Tai, an award-winning designer known for her work with plique-à-jour enamels, metals, and gems, died April 2 at age 77, after a 10-year battle with Parkinson’s disease.

Irvin Reiner Irvin Reiner, founder and longtime owner of Reiner’s Fine Jewelry in Houston, died May 7. He was 94. Joseph “Joe” Sindt, a refugee

Reed Exhibitions (parent company of JCK ) has named Lauren Thompson group marketing director of the JCK Las Vegas and Luxury shows. She worked 14 years for Jewelers of America, where she rose to associate director of communications and digital development.

director of marketing. She has worked for Nader Kash International and Beny Sofer.

Carolyn Rafaelian, who founded Alex and Ani and has served as CEO for the last six years, left the brand in May, according to a recent lawsuit. Robert Trabucco, former chief financial officer of Signet, is now CEO, the suit said.

Frédérique Gouzard

Three-store Cincinnati chain Stafford Jewelers is shuttering after 26 years in business.

from Austria who later became president of Hirsch USA, died July 7 of congestive heart failure. He was 71.

COMPANIES Dominion Diamond Corp., owner of the Ekati diamond mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories and 40% of the Diavik mine, filed for insolvency protection April 22. Current owner The Washington Companies has bid to repurchase its assets. MCH Group, which ran the fair formerly known as Baselworld, is debuting HourUniverse in April 2021 in Basel, Switzerland. JCKONLINE.COM

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the industry authority

SEPTEMBER 2020

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK Rachel Curran Jay Hartington Marissa Collections marissacollections.com

THE MATCH GAME

The key to Marissa Collectionsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; success (and six-figure sales) is connecting clients directly with their favorite jewelry designers

BY EMILI VESILIND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL OWEN

INCE 1975, MARISSA Collections has been synonymous with designer fashion in southern Florida. The now-sprawling boutique was founded by co-owners Marissa and Burt Hartington as a fashion oasis that introduced emerging designer collections from all over the world to the fashion-curious in famously affluent (but actually quite small) Naples, Fla. Over the past decade, the boutique has become equally famous for its superb curation of fine jewelry, which is focused on designer-driven brands with intentionally small distribution. The only place in Naples to buy rarefied collections from the likes of Irene Neuwirth, David Webb, and Foundrae is Marissa Collections.

JCKONLINE.COM

Shop Talk

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

Burt and Marissa now handle the apparel side of the business, while the couple’s son, Jay Hartington, spearheads the jewelry side together with jewelry operations director Rachel Curran. Just a decade ago, jewelry composed less than 1% of revenue; now it accounts for around 50% of the store’s total sales. “It’s been pretty meteoric, how fast jewelry’s grown for us,” says Jay, who with Curran has been focusing on the store’s digital channels with renewed gusto since the COVID-19 outbreak. “But it really makes sense, right? That’s the way people shop.… They buy jewelry to go with other things.” How did the store first get into fine jewelry? My mother and our team began talking about it, and we would do a trunk show here and there. But right out of the gate we went for nontraditional designer fine jewelry. We started very early on with Irene Neuwirth, and both our businesses have grown up together. We also do well with David Webb, Sidney Garber, Nikos Koulis, and Fernando Jorge. How has the pandemic changed the way you’re doing business? We knew immediately that we needed to invest even more time and effort into our website and social media platforms. We focused our efforts to [create and post] unique content— not just another picture of a piece of jewelry. We started doing Instagram Lives with the designers and in-house styling videos with a concentration on educating the consumer. What are the biggest challenges you feel jewelry retailers are facing in this second half of the year? The supply chain could create some serious problems with being able to deliver newness to clients. We have a very loyal and discerning clientele, SEPTEMBER 2020

Gemstone pendants from Californiabased designer Jacquie Aiche

“If we just relied on Naples, I don’t think we would be as successful.” —Jay Hartington

versus relying on walk-in traffic, that looks to us to educate and present new designers and collections. Also, in-store trunk shows are a considerable part of our overall business. We are now pivoting to virtual trunk shows and events to fill this void. In the fall, we look forward to combining both the virtual and in-store trunk show models. You call your sales associates “stylists”—why? We promote the mixing and matching of multiple designers. We don’t have departments. If you work in the store, you know the whole store. Our cases are laid out [so] that you stand in front of them, and the reality is that this makes it easier to put jewelry on someone.

And everyone who works in the store is required to have taken the GIA Applied Jewelry Professional program, too. Not just the stylists, but everyone. The stylists really are a part of their clients’ lives. They know when their children graduated from college and things like that. It’s like being part of someone’s house team. The idea of working with someone that closely is you’re helping to progress someone’s closet, so they’re not just buying the same thing over and over. You’re helping them find new things they love. How does the store stand out from its local competitors? We have an annual jewelry photo book that we shoot in-house—it’s

140 pages, and it just features jewelry. We send that out to clients, and we use the images throughout the year for marketing. Rachel plans a lot of out-of-store experiences: We took a small group of clients to David Webb in New York City, and we’ve also taken clients to Kwiat, Irene Neuwirth, and Todd Reed. At the end of the day, we’re matchmakers. We’re constantly trying to find ways for people to be able to interact more with the designers.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.

JCKONLINE.COM

Shop Talk

RETAIL THERAPY

QUARANTINE CHIC BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: Since reopening your store(s), what jewelry styles or brands have customers been most interested in? A: We reopened in mid-June.

We’ve gotten several comments from clients that they had travel plans canceled for this time period, and in lieu of that, they have decided to splurge a bit more on jewelry. Birthday and anniversary gifts seem to be slightly more expensive traditional diamond pieces. Self-purchases are leaning more fashion-forward, with clients willing to spend a bit more to get the unique look they want—things like layering necklaces, stacking bracelets, and unique, one-of-a-kind right-hand rings.

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY JCK NEWS DAILY — JCK NEWS DAILY — A ROUNDUP OF OUR BEST A ROUNDUP OF OUR BEST STORIES DELIVERED TO YOUR STORIES DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX EACH DAY. INBOX EACH DAY. Breaking news, industry insights and Breaking news, industry insights and practical advice for the jewelry trade. advice the jewelry trade. the Withpractical all original, notforaggregated content, With all original, not aggregated content, the JCK News Daily newsletter is the industry’s JCK News Daily newsletter isnews the industry’s true, business-to-business source. true, business-to-business news source. JCKONLINE.COM/SUBSCRIBE JCKONLINE.COM/SUBSCRIBE

DAWN HENDRICKS OWNER PERIDOT FINE JEWELRY Larchmont, N.Y. peridotfinejewelry.com

A: Since reopening, we’ve sold

GEORGE PELZ OWNER PAGÉO FINE JEWELERS Boston, Newton, and Nantucket, Mass. pageo.com

SUZANNE PRITSKER SALOMON CO-OWNER PROVIDENCE DIAMOND CO. Cranston, R.I. providencediamond.com

A: Since reopening, our clients

are loving our collections of modern, delicate gold and diamond jewelry from designers including Zoë Chicco and Dana Rebecca. They love everyday wearable jewelry that you can stack and layer.

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

a lot of graduation gifts, and Zoë Chicco is a fan favorite in that area. Grads were also very smitten with the Tiny Om Chakra bracelets. Our clients have also been loving the cheerful and versatile Anne Sportun wraps, and Jamie Joseph rings and necklaces are always popular.

KATHERINE COTTERILL MANAGER EAT GALLERY Maysville, Ky. eatgallery.com

A: Since the shutdown, we

have done a ton of custom pieces! People are buying bold color and going for unusual stones that stand out, like trapiche emeralds, star sapphires, and tourmaline slices! Because of Mayer & Watt [a Maysville, Ky.– based gem dealer], I have access to an insane collection of rare and unusual colored stones. JCKONLINE.COM

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SHOP TALK

CAUSES TO CELEBRATE

Mountz also presented pearl necklaces (like this Honora piece) to each woman as a thank-you for serving the local community.

INSPIRATION POINT

N EARLY FEBRUARY, JCK, in partnership with Diamonds Do Good, announced the inaugural Diamonds Do Good Jewelry Awards honoring members of the jewelry industry who have made charitable giving a successful and sustainable part of their business. The winner was meant to be featured in the magazine’s June issue and feted in Las Vegas at the Diamonds Do Good gala during the JCK show. Alas, we all know what happened to those plans. Once our original deadline of March 12 arrived, it was clear that the spring of 2020 was nothing like we’d anticipated, so we regrouped. After some internal discussion, we came to the (quite obvious) conclusion that recognizing companies that have embraced a philosophy of giving back was more important than ever. We extended the deadline to June 30, then pored over a raft of submissions that, truth be told, brought us to tears.

SEPTEMBER 2020

The winner of JCK ’s inaugural Diamonds Do Good Jewelry Awards impressed us with a 40th-birthday celebration beyond compare BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

Mountz Jewelers’ Ron Leitzel and Tonia Leitzel Ulsh (r.) with Furry Friends Network president and cofounder Robin Scherer

Mountz gave all its #Inspire40 recipients diamond paperweights.

Jewelers have always been the giving kind—quick to donate time, money, and jewels to local causes. Even so, when we read the entries, we were gobsmacked by how much good our industry has done for countless individuals and charities around the country and the world. Choosing a winner among the dozens of submissions was no small feat. Which is why in addition to selecting a winner, we also chose a first runner-up and a second runner-up, Bay Hill Jewelers in Orlando, Fla., and Perry’s Diamonds & Estate Jewelry in Charlotte, N.C., respectively. We were extremely moved by Bay Hill’s entry, which detailed the lengths JCKONLINE.COM

63 (Far l.) A college grad with Bay Hill Jewelers founder Stacey Papp; (l.) foster center Great Oaks Village, which Bay Hill supports

to which owner Stacey Papp has gone to help foster children in her community. In 2004, she founded the Bridges of Light Foundation to raise money for abandoned, neglected, abused, and atrisk youth and families. After the 2016 Pulse nightclub shooting in Orlando, in which 49 people died, Bay Hill gave four-year college scholarships to three children who lost a parent that night. “We continue to make ‘pulse hearts,’ where the money is placed into an account in which we hope to award another student in the future,” Papp wrote in her submission. Perry’s impressed us with the sheer volume of money the company has been able to raise for nonprofit organizations over the past four decades—an amount that Hadley Perry Pacheco, the daughter of owners Ernest and Priscilla Perry, estimated at $50 million. “Perry’s fulfills approximately 100 donation requests each year from various charities with jewelry or gift certificates,” she wrote in her submission, which explained how active her parents are in Charlotte’s nonprofit community. “Ernest frequently contributes his time as an auctioneer, a skill that is both entertaining for charity event guests and a highly effective fundraising tool for nonprofits. As an auctioneer, he is instrumental in helping each event raise an average of $250,000.” Ultimately, however, the judges agreed JCKONLINE.COM

Priscilla, Hadley, and Ernest Perry of Perry’s Diamonds & Estate Jewelry

“Going back 40 years to the beginning of our business, it was always part of our belief that you have to support the community.” —Ron Leitzel, Mountz Jewelers

that—drumroll, please!—Mountz Jewelers, a three-store family business based in south central Pennsylvania, deserved top honors. To commemorate the company’s 40th anniversary in 2019, owners and siblings Ron Leitzel and Tonia Leitzel Ulsh opted for an unconventional celebration: Instead of having a sale, they created a community gifting campaign, dubbed #Inspire40, in which they “recognized and surprised 40 inspiring individuals and organizations with a personal, hand-chosen Mountz gift as a thank-you for making their community stronger, brighter, and more dynamic,” Tonia wrote in her submission. Among the individuals and organizations the Mountz campaign honored were Sondra Wolfe Elias, who’s helped develop a wellness program for patients with Parkinson’s disease; Lily Jordan, a pediatric cancer patient who created an informational and uplifting awareness campaign about childhood cancer; and Floyd Stokes, founder and executive director of the American Literacy Corp.

The Perry’s team at the St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital Dream Home Giveaway

Both Leitzel and Ulsh emphasize that the people they chose “are leading by example” and “not doing things for recognition,” a philosophy that dovetails with their own approach to charity. “Going back 40 years to the beginning of our business, it was always part of our belief that you have to support the community,” Leitzel says. “It was never part of our thinking that we’re doing this to get more business.” And yet, the company’s commitment to giving inevitably resonates with clients, not to mention employees, who often share “how proud they are to work for a business that cares so much for the community,” Ulsh says. The pay-it-forward aspect of Mountz’s #Inspire40 campaign made a strong impression on us precisely because “they are doing it themselves but then reinforcing the message of how important it is that everyone else also give back to their community,” says judge Caryl Capeci, CEO of Chow Tai Fook North America. That’s the kind of inspiration we could all use right about now. SEPTEMBER 2020

the industry authority

SEPTEMBER 2020

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK 1

3 THE BOY IS FINE 1/ Petrvs Scarab Signet ring in black titanium and 18k yellow gold; $1,750; David Yurman; 888-3987626; davidyurman.com

2/ Zodiac (Aquarius) ring with black diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $8,250; Established; 646-7456831; establishedjewelry.com

Masculine statement rings elevate a modern gent’s wardrobe

5 3/ Organic men’s band in 22k yellow gold and sterling silver; $2,385; Todd Reed; 303-442-6280; toddreed.com JCKONLINE.COM

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

4/ Crusader Coin diamond ring in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Jorge Adeler; 877-915-8967; jorgeadeler.com

5/ Lounge Leather with Diamond Kiss ring in 18k yellow gold; $6,000; Hoorsenbuhs; 888-692-2997; hoorsenbuhs.com

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Aztec Layne necklace with silk chiffon, metal sequins, glass beads, metal chain, and resin stone micro seed beads; $575; Mignonne Gavigan; jacqueline@ mignonnegavigan. com; mignonne gavigan.com

S BAUBLES & BEADS

Mignonne Gavigan turned a scrap of torn fabric into a sparkle- and spangle-filled earring-focused fashion jewelry empire

BY REBECCA ASCHER-WALSH SEPTEMBER 2020

GAVIGAN: ERIK MELVIN

Leopard studs in nude/black with micro seed beads and cotton thread embroidery; $225

OMETIMES, DESTINY IS decided by a single impulsive act. For designer Mignonne “Maggie” Gavigan Smith, that moment occurred when she was remaking a vintage beaded couture dress. As she ripped the gown, a swath of it fell to the floor. She tied it around her neck and within an hour, “three people stopped me on the street and said, ‘Where can I get that necklace?’ ” she remembers. “I said, ‘Give me a month, and I’ll make it for you.’ ” Never mind that the Parsons-educated apparel and handbag designer, who worked for companies including Rachel Roy, Loeffler Randall, and Marc Jacobs, had no jewelry-making experience. The North Carolina native began whipping up her scarf necklaces, calling upon her network of fellow Southerners in New York City to host trunk shows. She got enough traction that in 2013, she and business partner Layne Logigian were able to debut M ignonne Gavigan with loans from their friends and families. Six years later, the company boasts 14 full-time employees, who work out of an open-office showroom in New York’s Tribeca neighborhood. While the scarf necklaces remain the heart of the brand, it has expanded to offer four seasons of earrings, which make up 80% of the business, as well as bracelets, necklaces, brooches, and hair accessories. With a price point ranging from roughly $150 to $450, the jewelry has found myriad fans among customers who flock to the company’s engaging website, follow it on Instagram, and shop at stores such as Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom; celebrity clients include Jessica Biel, Sofía Vergara, and Katy Perry. JCKONLINE.COM

MARCH 22-24, 2021 miami beach convention center

| miami beach, fl

Restock and Reconnect at JIS Join the industry in Miami Beach, Florida for the first major cash and carry event of 2021 to restock your store while preparing for the spring and summer selling seasons, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day and the major milestones reuniting your customers. The JIS March Show combines the best of the “Original” January Event and the “Niche” April Show making it the most anticipated and unique show to reunite the jewelry industry.

T O L E A R N M O R E V I S I T J I S S H O W . C O M — R E G I S T R AT I O N W I L L B E O P E N S O O N jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com +1 (800) 840-5612

S TAY CONNECTED #JISSHOW

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Pink/red Orchid earrings with organza, silk thread, bugle beads, and micro bugle beads; $325

Mila stud earrings with silk organza, resin stones, and seed beads; $125

Mega Madeline dark blue earrings with plastic sequins and leather backing; $275

customer’s opinion is taken to heart. “This is about making people feel good,” she explains. “In my previous design positions, I learned that if you don’t take critique, your company will sink. So whatever it is, I want to hear it. If there’s something you don’t like, let’s make it better! For example, our Lilac-breasted Roller was our first bird earring,” she continues, “and people asked if I could make a smaller one, so we did the Finch earring, which I love. And when our sales director started, we were making our first Madeline wing earring, and I was making them in neon green, orange, turquoise, and silver,” she remembers with a laugh. “Our sales director asked, ‘Could you make me some in neutral colors?’ Now our white and gold one is our best seller. She was right.” Gavigan comes by her team-player mentality naturally, growing up with three brothers in Charlotte, a place she says has informed her designs as much as her own sense of adventure. “I love color, which probably speaks more to the South than the typical New Yorker who only wears black, but I was always doing things differently,” she says. “I didn’t like how J. Crew jeans fit, so I cut up my dad’s old jeans, which had a perfect wash since he’d been wearing them for 15 years, and resewed them for a wide leg. Everyone in the South wears their grandmother’s pearls,” she continues, “and the original scarf necklace was a new way to wear

“If there’s something you don’t like, let’s make it better.” —Mignonne “Maggie” Gavigan

Sitting in the conference room of her sunlit office, where bookshelves and tables are piled high with her colorful accessories, Gavigan is a manifestation of her design aesthetic. (Editor’s Note: This interview took place in February, before COVID-19 took hold in the United States.) She is fashion- magazine stylish in a denim shirt, black pants, and white sneakers, bedecked in dangling pearl and hoop earrings and stacks of bracelets. But she’s quick to point out that the shirt is 10 years old, the pants are from Zara, and, until recently, she insisted on cutting her own hair. Ask her about her can’t-livewithout beauty secret, and she answers easily: “Blue mascara!” The designer understands the importance of communicating her chic-yet-approachable sensibility to her customers. “I feel like they know me,” she says. To achieve that aura of familiarity, she stars in many of the marketing campaigns (insisting that her image is not retouched beyond necessity), engages in social media platforms despite admitting to being a terrible photographer, and continues to attend trunk shows where she can interact with the public. She’s not there just to shake hands; each SEPTEMBER 2020

JCKONLINE.COM

Leopard Scarf necklace in nude/green with chiffon and seed beads; $395

Hummingbird earrings in hot pink with cotton thread embroidery, sequins, and feathers; $275

JCKONLINE.COM

pearls for me. It’s lopsided, and the pattern’s not perfect. So for someone who never really fit into the typical Southern traditional way of wearing anything, it spoke to me.” It also spoke to the masses, and pearls remain a constant in her collections. “Each season, we try to update what our ‘cool girl’ pearl situation is,” she says. For inspiration, Gavigan—who lives four blocks from her office with her financier husband, Gray, and their 3-year-old son, Fields—mines her years of traveling the world for work and pleasure. “One of our best-selling pieces is the bird earring,” she explains. “That came from being on safari in South Africa, where everything is a dusty beige color, and suddenly this fleck of turquoise and magenta flew by and it was a lilac-breasted roller. You look at the bird, the color story, and you see such beauty.” And while she’s been more grounded since having Fields, “I’m never out of ideas. They’re happening in the shower or in the middle of the night. I always have a sketchbook and a pencil in my bag. I have my hands in so many other parts of the business, it’s a luxury to be able to sit down and sketch.” As the company continues to evolve, Gavigan and Logigian are keeping a close eye on just how far they can push the designs to grow their customer base while keeping their loyal clientele. For Gavigan, the sweet spot lies in balancing a sense of whimsy with practicality. “When I was at Rachel Roy, I was making these crazy shoes, and the president of the company said, ‘Look, you have to have the simple basics, too, which are your cake, and you build up from there.’ So maybe we have one fantastic earring or necklace, but what is the cake, the basics that help build the collection?” That means the majority of earrings are priced $150– $250, “but we go up to $425, and we see a lot of success at those higher price points because they are so specialized and people are obsessed with them,” says Logigian, illustrating her point by pulling beaded earrings designed to look like vodka and Champagne bottles off a shelf. “We have a lot of customers who are collectors. One woman bought the Jacobs Bandana necklace to hand down to her daughter and her daughter’s daughter.” Regardless of the investment, she says, each piece should “sit between fine heirloom jewelry and fast-fashion, trend jewelry. We see so many fashion brands focused on being the cool kids on the block, and we’re really focused on the brand being friendly, fun, and approachable.” It’s a market Mignonne Gavigan continues to c onquer, with growing sales and discussions about opening brickand-mortar stores in the near future. “I want to make people happy and give them a sense of confidence that maybe they didn’t have before,” Gavigan says. “So in five years, I’d like to still be doing this, but even more successfully. The sky’s the limit.” SEPTEMBER 2020

the look

Q&A

Asks...

EMILY FAITH GOLDSTEIN

Her hip Los Angeles–based brand is perfectly positioned for self-purchasers WE LOVE BIG jewelry as much as anyone. But we also don’t go anywhere without a few sparkly stacking bands and delicate diamond earrings. That’s where EF Collection comes in. If it’s a staple, EF makes it. And if you’re stumped for inspiration, just go for what designer Emily Faith Goldstein says every woman should have in her jewelry box: “A classic pair of huggies or gold hoops!” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 34 Number of years in the biz: 10 Number of employees you oversee: 11 Family and pets: I got married in October 2019; my husband and I don’t have kids yet, but we have Levi [pictured, top], the sweetest Mini Goldendoodle who has stolen our hearts and quickly become the EF oﬃce mascot. SEPTEMBER 2020

The Diamond Swan Pinky ring Goldstein made for her wedding

14k yellow gold Diamond Mini Bezel huggies with diamond X-O charms

Describe your personal style: I’m classic with an edge. You’ll typically find me in a white tee, jeans, Gucci loafers or Golden Goose sneakers, and, of course, layered and stacked in delicate diamonds. First piece you ever designed: Our Diamond Zig Zag Stack rings. The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: Probably the Diamond Swan Pinky ring I made for my wedding. It is inspired by Swan Lake at Hotel Bel-Air, where I got married. The sapphire eyes were my something blue! Best piece of advice you ever received: “Stay in your lane, don’t get wrapped up in the noise.” Worst piece of advice: “Why would you want to be in the jewelry business—can you make a career out of that?!” First job ever: Working at Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent. How did you get started designing jewelry? Originally I sold jewelry at my local hair salon—some were my designs, others from local L.A. designers. My heart and passion were with my pieces, and I quickly noticed a void in the market for reasonably priced, delicate jewels made of quality 14k gold and diamonds. Jewelry you’re wearing: I never leave home without my charm necklace: It has my signature Enamel and Diamond Heart engraved with my and my husband’s initials; the charms tell our love story—engagement date, wedding date, etc. I’m typically layering studs, huggies, and cuﬀs and I always have lots of rings stacked! Five items on your desk: Aquaphor, Le Labo Santal 26 candle, EarPods, a picture of my husband and Levi, a notepad. Five songs on your playlist: “Fantasy,” Mariah Carey; “Livin’ It Up,” Ja Rule; “Doo Wop (That Thing),” Lauryn Hill [pictured ]; “Heaven,” Avicii; “Everything I Wanted,” Billie Eilish. Exercise regimen: SoulCycle or Barry’s Bootcamp are my go-tos. What did you eat for breakfast? Almond milk latte with a splash of vanilla. Guilty pleasures: Sour candy, Sex and the City reruns. Drink (daytime/evening): Latte (hot or iced depending on my mood)/Tito’s and soda with lime. How do you unwind? Hot shower, comfy PJs, Netflix. Book you’re reading: My friend Katherine Schwarzenegger’s new book, The Gift of Forgiveness. Favorite movie: Pretty Woman [pictured ]. Who would play you in your life story? Jennifer Lopez—she can do no wrong! Personal motto: “Diamonds make everything better.” JCKONLINE.COM

HILL: DON ARNOLD/WIREIMAGE; PRETTY WOMAN: © BUENA VISTA PICTURES/EVERETT COLLECTION; LATTE: VISIT ROEMVANITCH/ISTOCK/GETTY

EF Collection Diamond Hope Charm necklace in 14k yellow gold

MARCH 22-24, 2021 miami beach convention center

| miami beach, fl

Book Your Booth T h e J I S M a r c h S h o w i s t i m e d p e r f e c t l y t o s a t i s f y b u y e r ’s i n v e n t o r y n e e d s f o r M o t h e r ’s D a y, F a t h e r ’s D a y and the major milestones reuniting their customers. Buyers are not just attending, they are attending with intent to purchase on-site and place orders for future deliveries. As the first major cash and carry event of 2021, this is the time to secure new sales leads, reconnect w i t h c u s t o m e r s a n d g e n e r a t e c a s h - f l o w. J I S M a r c h c o m b i n e s t h e b e s t o f t h e J a n u a r y e v e n t a n d t h e A p r i l Show creating a great opportunity to successfully kick off the spring and summer selling seasons in beautiful Miami Beach at JIS March 2021!

T O S E C U R E Y O U R B O O T H T O D A Y, C O N TA C T: L U K E M A S S E L L A , S A L E S M A N A G E R LMASSELLA@REEDEXPO.COM | +1-203-840-5838

“

S TAY CONNECTED #JISSHOW

72 Deco Tassel necklace in 18k white gold with 6.15 cts. t.w. diamonds, 8.93 cts. t.w. emeralds, 104.29 cts. t.w. pearls, and 29.25 cts. t.w. onyx; $25,000; Umrao; 212-575-4727

S T A C K T H E D E C O C A RV E D S TO N E S , G E O M E T R I C FORMS, CALIBRÉ-CUT GEMS, INKY ENAMEL: ’20s STYLE HASN’T LOST ITS LUSTER

P h o t o g r a p h y b y K e n j i To m a P r o p s t y l i s t s E m i l y + To n y M u l l i n Jewelry editor Rima Suqi

(From top) 18k white gold Peacock earrings with 3.28 cts. t.w. diamonds, 2.16 cts. t.w. rubies, 6.75 cts. t.w. pearls, and 0.5 ct. t.w. onyx, $8,000, Umrao, 212-575-4727; Principessa motherof-pearl, ruby, and diamond earrings, $8,800, Hanut Singh, 212-8106836, hanutsingh. com; Mobile earrings with 17.74 cts. t.w. aquamarines and silver Tahitian pearls in platinum, $28,000, Assael, 212-8190060, assael.com

Gatsby collection necklace with 1.52 cts. t.w. diamonds and 2.29 cts. t.w. onyx in 18k white gold, $6,375, Doves by Doron Paloma, 888-663-6837, dovesjewelry.com; Tangent Mirror 18k white and yellow gold ring with onyx, 0.39 ct. t.w. diamonds, and 0.17 ct. t.w. sapphires, $5,600, Ele Karela, info@elekarela.com, elekarela.com

75 (From top) 18k yellow gold Stick and Stone earrings with aquamarines, 0.75 ct. t.w. diamonds, and 7 mm natural freshwater pearls, $4,100, Sorellina, 646-745-6831, sorellinanewyork. com; Lotus Samara earrings with 1.85 cts. t.w. diamonds, 2.64 cts. t.w. rubies, and 7.74 cts. t.w. pink opals in 18k white gold, $16,750, Ananya, info@ ananya.com, ananya. com; Solar Flare golden topaz ring with rubies and diamonds, $10,500, Hanut Singh, 212-810-6836, hanutsingh.com

18k white gold Stella ring with 5.45 cts. t.w. diamonds, $21,375, Sylva & Cie, 213-488-1444, sylvacie.com; E Hoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;aĚ&#x201E;la 14k yellow gold earrings with 12 mm South Sea pearls and 0.85 ct. t.w. diamonds, $12,995, Maui Divers Jewelry, 800-253-6016, mauidivers.com

77 (From top) 18k yellow gold Show n Tellâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; Ready 2 Celebrate ring with 4 ct. blue topaz, 0.75 cts. t.w. diamonds, and black and white enamel, $3,331, NeverNoT, info@nevernot. co.uk, nevernot. co.uk; Horizon 18k yellow gold earrings with petrified palm wood, 0.72 ct. t.w. turquoise, and 2.55 cts. t.w. white topaz, $5,900, Emily P. Wheeler, info@ emilypwheeler.com, emilypwheeler.com; Black Dahlia ring in 18k yellow gold with 3.42 ct. Peruvian pink opal, 1.66 cts. t.w. black onyx, and 0.89 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,360, Doves by Doron Paloma, 888-663-6837, dovesjewelry.com

by Amy Elliott

THE CENTURY-OLD ART DECO MOVEMENT REMAINS AN ETERNAL SOURCE OF INSPIRATION FOR CONTEMPORARY JEWELERS. WE RECAP THE ERA’S INFLUENCE ON JEWELRY DESIGN THROUGH THE DECADES IN ANTICIPATION OF THE NEXT BIG COMEBACK. (SPOILER: IT’S ALREADY HERE.)

It would be hard to find someone in the jewelry industry who’s not wellversed in art deco style. Most would probably cite Cartier’s platinum and diamond jewels from the 1920s or Van Cleef & Arpels’ Mystery Set jarretières of the 1930s as the period’s most memorable emblems. “Art deco was the visual embodiment of modernist principles,” says Daphne Lingon, head of jewelry at Christie’s Americas. She and other jewelry historians point to master jewelers such as René Boivin, Jean Després, Raymond Templier, and Suzanne Belperron—and brands including Mauboussin, Boucheron, and Tiffany & Co., in addition to deco icons Cartier and Van Cleef—as the era’s definitive exemplars. Many favored bold geometric motifs and Egyptian Revival elements and executed their visions with step-cut diamonds, onyx, hard stones like coral and jade, and rock crystal. The period owes its name to the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, which took place in Paris in 1925. The style it spawned reigned supreme until the eve of World War II, when art moderne segued into the Retro period, but deco’s influence on jewelry has been pervasive in nearly every decade since. “Designers over the years have constantly found new ways to incorporate the hallmark features of the style, from streamlined elements inspired by the great architecture of the day to geometric patterns such as chevrons, zigzags, and starbursts,” says Peter Schaffer, director of A La Vieille Russie in New York City.

NO MORE FRILLS Interestingly, the term art deco didn’t enter the mainstream until the mid-1960s—and coincides with the period’s first of many revivals. It appeared in a 1966 article in The Times of London about “a nostalgic return to the design trends of the twenties.” Journalist Hilary Gelson alluded to “Les Années 25,” a highly influential Musée des Arts Décoratifs exhibition celebrating “the style now known by connoisseurs as Art Deco.” Throughout the 1960s, jewelry designers began to move away from the florals and bows of the 1950s, prompting many of them to rediscover, and mine, the art deco era for inspiration. Shapes were more sculptural, and the geometric elements were more exaggerated. Think glamorous bombe rings, op art blackand-white patterns, concentric circles, undulating C shapes, and sunburst motifs. Meanwhile, the Cleopatra look, inspired by the iconic 1963 film starring Elizabeth Taylor, reinvigorated a taste for Egyptian motifs, one of the pillars of the art deco style that first captivated consumers in the 1920s (following the 1922 discovery of King Tut’s tomb).

BOLD MOVES In the 1970s, the art deco influence appears most notably in the works of Aldo Cipullo, an Italian designer who worked for Tiffany & Co. and Cartier as well as the American jeweler David Webb. “Cipullo is best known for his famous Love and Juste Un Clou nail bracelets for Cartier, but when you see a large body of his work together, you truly see the brilliance of the art deco influence in his designs,” says Gus Davis, president of

79 Tsarina earrings with enamel, emerald hydrothermal quartz, and diamonds, $8,400, Hanut Singh, 212-8106836, hanutsingh. com; deco bracelet in 18k white gold with 9.06 cts. t.w. diamonds, 91.55 cts. t.w. emeralds, and 13.65 cts. t.w. onyx, $35,000, Umrao, 212-575-4727; 14k yellow gold Zoe Fan ring with 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,200, Selin Kent, info@selinkent.com, selinkent.com

“The striking quality of these architectural designs hit me like a lightning bolt.” —Barbara Ross-Innamorati, Évocateur

Camilla Dietz Bergeron, an estate dealer in New York City. Meanwhile, Webb invoked the art deco aesthetic with “clean lines and geometric forms that recall a certain rectilinear sensibility,” says Mark Emanuel, co-owner of David Webb New York. “Also, in both the 1920s and 1970s, rock crystal saw a resurgence. And long sautoirs symbolized female empowerment—an important design theme in both the 1920s and the 1970s, and one we see today as well.”

MODERN GEOMETRY The 1980s and 1990s nodded to art deco in a variety of ways, predominantly in the worlds of fashion and interiors (remember all those torchiere lamps?). Young jewelry designers studying in or moving to New York City absorbed the creative energy and iconic architecture that surrounded them. Évocateur founder and designer Barbara Ross-Innamorati remembers the effect of seeing the Chrysler Building, Rockefeller Center, the Waldorf Astoria, and other art deco landmarks: “The striking quality of these architectural designs hit me like a lightning bolt,” she recalls. Concurrently, the TV hit Miami Vice put that city’s art deco district on prominent display. “To this day, I get a lot of inspiration walking down Ocean Drive and Collins Avenue— that’s where I got the name for my Collins collection,” says contemporary designer Doryn Wallach, who vacationed in South Beach as a youngster. Her fine jewelry line is well-known for its neo-deco vibes. Geometric motifs popped up on everything from Swatch watch faces to Esprit sweaters, and 1980s jewelry tended to exaggerate these elements. Yves Saint Laurent evoked the

work of deco masters Belperron and Templier in oversize earrings and bracelets. And in 1985, the movie Desperately Seeking Susan sparked a renewed interest in Egyptian Revival jewelry, with its plot centered on a stolen pair of Nefertiti earrings and Madonna’s now-iconic cropped jacket embroidered with a mysterious pyramid. In 1987, the Duchess of Windsor’s jewels came up for auction at Sotheby’s, rekindling a passion for the era’s treasures among collectors. The jeweler Neil Lane is a well-known deco devotee and managed to disrupt the pervasive minimalism of the late 1990s with his antique diamond acquisitions, which frequently made appearances on the red carpet.

THE NEXT CHAPTER For present-day jewelry designers, art deco has become a touchstone for concepts that feel clean and modern as opposed to romantic or a touch too pretty and ornate. “Art deco will only gain traction in the 2020s,” predicts Will Kahn (@willsnotebook), Town & Country contributor and former jewelry director at Moda Operandi. “I think Nikos Koulis is the most notable designer pushing the art deco style forward. He takes classic art deco motifs and pushes them with modern scale, new shapes, and a unique mix of materials.” And themes of female empowerment, as David Webb’s Emanuel notes, are more relevant than ever. But the big boom may not happen until 2025, the 100-year anniversary of the art deco movement’s official entrée into the annals of art history. You can prepare for the revival by investing in the contemporary designers highlighted on these pages, who capture the deco vibe with just the right amount of 21st-century flair.

THE ROArINg 2020S

F EVER THE jewelry industry needed a soothsayer, it’s now, as we stand at the crossroads of two p rofoundly different ways of life: pre– and post–COVID-19. How will the changes accelerated by the crises of this deeply challenging year— from digitization to our collective reckoning over racism—mature and evolve? When will the ground beneath our feet stop shaking? And what will the landscape of jewelry retail look like when it does? We asked 20 people representing a microcosm of our rich and diverse trade to provide a glimpse of the future as they see it, or wish to see it. We hope you appreciate their enlightening visions as much as we do.

“This pandemic has pushed our industry faster than we expected to omnichannel. We will need to continue to invest in technology and meet our customers where they are. We do not think this is by any means the end of the physical store, but we must continue to advance the customer experience both within our four walls and outside. Additionally, manufacturers and retailers will need to continue to deepen their relationships to offer more to the end consumer.”

—SCOTT BERG, PRESIDENT, LEE MICHAELS FINE JEWELRY

WE ASKED 20 BIG THINKERS ACROSS THE INDUSTRY TO DESCRIBE THE MOST SIGNIFICANT C H A N G E S T H AT W I L L — O R SHOULD —INFLUENCE JEWELRY R E TA I L I N T H E W E E K S , M O N T H S , AND YEARS TO COME

by Rob Bates a n d E m i l i Ve s i l i n d

“Digital will become mainstream in a socially distanced world. There will definitely be change in people’s priorities, even in the way we spend. The consumer focus will now be more on sustainable and handcrafted products and products of high value which have a soul, versus massproduced products. We also all have to look after the environment in order for the environment to look after us, so ethical practices and sustainability should become mandatory for all kinds of business.”

—TARANG ARORA, CEO, AMRAPALI JEWELS

Earrings with 19.28 cts. t.w. emeralds and 0.98 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold and sterling silver; £5,600 ($7,166); amrapalijewels.com

81 “The industry has bounced back from wars, depressions, recessions, and it will bounce back from this by focusing on its core promise: commitment, timelessness, and classic and enduring p roducts. The future of retail must be less about the transaction and more about creating an experience that immerses people in the wonder of the product and the brand. It must be about human engagement. The industry should truly commit to an omnichannel future and seamless interaction with consumers, removing barriers between digital and in-store while making both environments a world of dreams and inspiration rather than price and discounts.”

Center of My Universe floral halo diamond pendant in 18k rose gold; starting at $1,855; forevermark.com

—STEPHEN LUSSIER, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, CONSUMER AND BRANDS, DE BEERS GROUP

“The pandemic has taught us many lessons, and the primary lesson is that we can never wait to make changes if we believe our business needs evolution. In terms of digitalization, the jewelry industry is lagging in developing and delivering a seamless consumer experience both pre- and post-purchase as well as from offline to online purchasing.”

—AMISH SHAH, FOUNDER AND CEO, ALTR CREATED DIAMONDS

“I see retail continuing to evolve toward direct-to-consumer, online sales channels, and trunk shows at small retail spaces— once it is safe to do so. There are increasing opportunities with retailers like Wolf & Badger, who provide a global platform for emerging designers like me to reach a wider audience. I see more trunk shows and strategic partnerships happening, such as launching a collection with a retailer for a month, and increased collaborations as a way to help more emerging talent—specifically BIPOC jewelry designers— gain access to more clients and continue to sustain their careers for the long term.”

“We believe in the power of technology as a tool to reach customers where they are and bring them new experiences in the world of jewelry. Current events bring an opportunity to accelerate our focus in this area to inspire our customers’ imaginations and find new ways to connect with them. To do so will take ideas and energy from everyone.”

—LISA BRIDGE, PRESIDENT AND CEO, BEN BRIDGE JEWELER

—ANGELY MARTINEZ, FOUNDER AND DESIGNER, ANGELY MARTINEZ JEWELRY Flor Époch onyx and opal cameo in silver; $500; angelymartinez jewelry.com

MARTINEZ: STEFEN POMPÉE

“Brick-and-mortar stores are not dead, and, in fact, jewelry stores tend to have lower traffic and more one-onone service, which lends itself easily to a socially distant but luxurious experience. Consumers are turning away from fashion-trend clothing and accessories and instead looking for investment pieces. Jewelers need to be ready for them by expanding their social media presence and websites to promote direct sales, and also engage directly with customers via email, Zoom, direct message, and WhatsApp.”

—WILL KAHN, JEWELRY EDITOR, @WILLSNOTEBOOK

“Conscious consumerism and values-based s hopping will continue to rise in popularity. In turn, the industry needs to focus on providing customers long-lasting, meaningful products that are worth their investment. As we’ve also seen this year, customers expect the brands they support to take an action-oriented approach to diversity and inclusion. The jewelry industry should be proactive about representing and supporting customers of all backgrounds and encouraging diversity within their organizations.” —BETH GERSTEIN, COFOUNDER AND CO-CEO, BRILLIANT EARTH Blooming Rose 1 ct. t.w. diamond engagement ring in 18k white gold; $3,350 (without center stone); brilliantearth.com

THE ROArINg 2020S

“I don’t think the industry bounces back; instead, I think it takes a new shape going forward. It operates without borders or seasonal market cues and really becomes an on-demand offering to feed the needs of an evolved consumer. Jewelry needs to lighten its footprint and find ways to bridge gaps that meet the new luxury customer. The customer will demand—not just want—brands that are rooted in social and environmental consciousness that don’t sacrifice style.”

“Demography is showing us the path to the new consumer, defined by three massive spending segments: multicultural consumers, self-purchasing females, and next-generation bridal consumers. The jewelry industry must embrace the new consumer and employ them, create for them, market to them, and provide innovative experiences. He or she who wins the new jewelry consumer wins the race.”

—MARTY HURWITZ, COFOUNDER AND CEO, MVI MARKETING

—LEE STEVENSON, COFOUNDER, METAL & SMITH

“In the short term, retailers should consider the pickup and outside waiting experience for their customers: What does the front of your store look like? Is it welcoming? If folks have to wait outside, do you have seating and something to drink for them? And once they are in your store, have you thought about the in-store experience? This will be key in getting folks to come to you, as we have all now learned how to do everything from home. In the longer term, there is a lot of room for innovation and technology to make purchasing jewelry a seamless experience for customers in-store and online. With the online and offline experiences merging, the industry needs to focus on business-to-business transactions that involve technology and easy-to-use platforms. Retail stores should closely examine their online customer journey and experience, and decide where to invest long-term for creating a platform for e-commerce.” —YANCY WEINRICH, CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER, REED EXHIBITIONS

The Birdy 34 mm with stainless steel case, motherof-pearl dial, and double-wrap leather bracelet; $475; shinola.com “The jewelry and watch industries bounce back by understanding that consumer behaviors and priorities have changed and [recognizing] the need to meet the guests where they are. A true omnichannel experience is more important than ever, and allocating resources to lean into this initiative is necessary. A higher level of preparedness is essential to be able to react to any change in the business environment. The contingency plan is now more critical than ever.”

—SHANNON WASHBURN, CEO, SHINOLA

“The jewelry industry needs to adapt to what customers are looking for in this new normal. A few things that will help are strong e-commerce platforms with a streamlined customer service experience and new retail formats that are focused on safety and bridging the gap between physical and virtual experiences. We need to be able to adapt product offerings—as well as shopping experiences—much faster than we historically did.”

—BOUCHRA EZZAHRAOUI, COFOUNDER, AURATE

“Automation and digitization will allow us to conduct business more profitably and efficiently. The future of jewelry retail will involve a seamless fluid experience between physical stores, social media platforms, and company websites. There will be less square footage in physical stores and more investment in and reliance on technology that virtually connects consumers with products and salespeople. There will be virtual appointments, home consultations, deliveries, and concierge services that eliminate friction and bring the product to the consumer. As an industry, we have to create greater career opportunities to establish a more inclusive jewelry community which attracts, celebrates, and enthusiastically supports Black and female leaders, as well as millennials, whose perspective will ensure our relevancy for the future. The speed at which we bounce back will be measured by our willingness to enthusiastically embrace this change.”

—CARYL CAPECI, CEO, CHOW TAI FOOK NORTH AMERICA

One-of-a-kind opal Monolith ring in 14k yellow gold; $4,350; wwake.com

“This industry is still dominated by white cis[gender] males in corporate positions. It’s very much stuck in the early 2000s. Changing the jewelry industry at a systemic level is challenging. The work is specialized, the skills and businesses are often passed between generations of a family, and there are limited job opportunities within the industry in the first place. But to make equitable change is to employ, share skills, and to promote more individuals from underserved communities into positions of knowledge and power.” —WING YAU, FOUNDER, WWAKE JEWELRY

“I would love to see larger, established companies in the jewelry industry seek out and champion smaller, independent talents from diverse backgrounds, offering mentorship opportunities, business support, design collaboration opportunities, and grants so the ‘next wave’ can grow and sustain their businesses. I also think we need to do a better job of not only making it easier to incorporate more sustainable practices and materials into our businesses, but also clearly educating consumers about the choices they have, from fair-mined and recycled gold to lab-grown diamonds and everything in between, so they can feel confident that their purchases are making a positive impact on the world.”

—KHADIJAH FULTON, FOUNDER AND DESIGNER, WHITE/SPACE

Continuity ring in recycled 14k gold with 0.1 ct. diamond; $675; whitespace jewelry.com

“The jewelry industry I want to be a part of is one that is diverse and equitable for all stakeholders. An industry that honors the earth from which all its products are derived and the people who labor to create the jewelry we are all so passionate about. The structures that have been created in this industry are in place to exclude, oppress, extract, and deny, and they must be torn down so that something more expansive and meaningful can be rebuilt in their place. I want to see all of our trade and media organizations, as well as large industrywide vendors, showing their antiracism support—or we will have to create and patronize new ones. And most importantly, I want us to listen to all marginalized groups in this industry—give them a seat at the table or, better yet, support them building their own tables and follow their lead into a new epoch in jewelry that is rich in diversity at all levels.”

—JENNIFER GANDIA, CO-OWNER, GREENWICH ST. JEWELERS

“The industry will be transformed as far as how it works (more remote work where possible), how we connect with customers (social and digital) and each other (fewer galas, trade shows, and travel), and its entire supply chain (more emphasis on ethical and responsible sourcing). We will also need to promote and listen to ideas from underrepresented voices in the industry. Jewelry retail in the future will peel back the layers of authority and formality in order to show real personality, meaning, and values.”

—TIFFANY STEVENS, PRESIDENT, CEO, AND GENERAL COUNSEL, JEWELERS VIGILANCE COMMITTEE

“Stores may be less important in the future. Trusted experts will be more important. The industry needs to hire better-qualified people [with] emotional intelligence as well as develop agility with technology. Brands need to gain privileged access to personal data for the client, with consent, in order to truly personalize. Custom-made pieces may become more important at the high end. The client experience will be a mix of digitally automated elements that make sense—plus human connection and bonding that nurtures the client.” —MILTON PEDRAZA, CEO, LUXURY INSTITUTE

“Jewelry needs to continue to aggressively challenge the ethical dimensions of the industry. Extractive industries need to be working as environmentally cleanly as possible, involving and benefiting [the] local community, bringing safe jobs, and ensuring cleanups and reforestation. We need to ensure at all points in the chain that there is safe and sustainable employment.” —PIPPA SMALL, FOUNDER AND DESIGNER, PIPPA SMALL JEWELLERY

18k gold Rosy Dawn bracelet with rubies, pink sapphires, tourmaline, and carnelian; $2,320; pippasmall.com

Lucky original coin pendant in sterling silver dipped in 14k gold; $278 (chain sold separately); Jane Winchester; info@ janewinchester.com; janewinchester.com

HIGH FIVE

THESE FAB FASHION JEWELRY BRANDS BRING AFFORDABILITY TO YOUR MIX WITHOUT SACRIFICING STYLE by Brittany Siminitz

85 CONSIDER YOUR YOUNGEST shoppers. As they explore the limits of their purchasing power, having the right balance of well-made yet affordable fashion jewelry in your store may be the key to creating a customer for life. The five brands featured here are small, focused, and incredibly proud of their craft. They design with feeling and purpose and can relate to consumers looking to understand where (and from whom) their goods are sourced. Make no mistakeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;this is not fast fashion.

Graduated Liberty earrings with vintage silver coins, 14k yellow gold vermeil gilding, freshwater pearls, and chrysoprase; $960; Stacey Lee Webber; 317363-7808; stacey leewebber.com

Love Letter charm necklace with 24k antique goldâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; plated brass chain and vintage lockets, charms, and stones; $428; Brinker & Eliza; info@ brinkerandeliza.com; brinkerandeliza.com

4 Triple Mini Hoop stud earrings in 14k goldâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;plated silver with CZ; $49 (sold as pair); Ania Haie; 866-2566151; aniahaie.com

Large Hoja earrings in 14k goldâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; plated brass; $85; Jam + Rico; info@ jamandrico.com; jamandrico.com

JANE WINCHESTER

STACEY LEE WEBBER

BRINKER & ELIZA

ANIA HAIE

JAM + RICO

Jane Winchester’s line of made-in-the-USA coin jewelry is ideal for people seeking an everyday staple with a soulful vibe. There’s meaning behind each design, from the signature coin pendants—inscribed with symbols of love, protection, luck, and peace—to its popular zodiac pendants. Largely inspired by the 2017 Women’s March, designer Jane Winchester Paradis started her brand in December of that year. Today, the pieces—made in gold plate, silver, and 10k and 14k gold—sell in about two dozen U.S. retailers as well as online. “Let’s just admit, jewelry is for the privileged,” says the suburban Philadelphia–based designer, whose résumé includes a stint at Barneys New York and 11 years at Lilly Pulitzer. “Whether it’s inexpensive or outrageous, it’s all a luxury.” Come for the coins, but stay for the carved heart and butterfly pendants, beaded earrings, and link chains—all compatible for layering. The cherry on top of this charming collection? Its affordability. “I love my price point,” Paradis says. “From the moment I wrote our business plan, I knew I wanted the core product to be between $200 and $300, and not to be afraid to…offer items up to $2,500. The key to me is a connection to the piece and the meaning behind it, married with perceived value.”

Stacey Lee Webber isn’t just a jewelry designer; she’s also a metalsmith and artist whose work is on display in institutions such as the Smithsonian American Art Museum. “I envision my brand to be a mix of one-of-a-kind, showstopper jewelry pieces alongside truly amazing large sculpture and wall pieces,” says Webber, who’s been designing jewelry since 2005 but just started wholesaling in 2015 (she’s in about 60 U.S. stores). “My aesthetic is often inspired by the vintage materials I work with,” Webber says of her jewelry designs, an impressive array of coin styles repurposed in a clever, cool way. Vintage American buffalo nickels are reworked into swinging oval-shape earrings dipped in gold, dangling pearls. Lady Liberty coins are gilded in 14k yellow gold, with gemstone drops at the end of each earring. And you don’t have to drop serious coin: A pair of FDR studs, hand-cut from antique silver dimes, runs only $60. Of course, more intricate pieces—such as a $4,400 charm-heavy necklace—go much higher. “I am looking to reach fashion-forward, art-loving men and w omen,” says Webber, who in 2018 collaborated on jewelry for an Oscar de la Renta runway show. “I want my clients to be c ollectors who want to support and invest in a full-time artist and designer.”

Brinker and Eliza Higgins are the mother-daughter duo behind this brand, established in 2017. Mom Brinker, a trained metalsmith, spent a decade designing her own jewelry before joining forces with Eliza, who brings fashion merchandising experience and creative flair. Think gold- plated hoops dangling with rock candy clusters of Czech glass, or gem-studded cowrie shells; pearl nautilus shell earrings with baroque pearl drops; necklaces adorned with rainbow hearts and vintage charms. Look at anything made by the Connecticutbased team and you’ll instantly feel lighter and more carefree. “I will forever be pulled toward details that look as though they were found in a vintage store or the attic of someone’s very stylish greatgreat-grandmother,” says Brinker. “I also live right by the beach—it’s impossible to not feel something when you look across the water, or down at your feet surrounded by a hundred seashells.” Pieces, which are sold at retailers such as Moda Operandi, won’t break the bank—the highest price you’ll find is $428 for a heavily armed charm necklace—but they will break anyone into a smile. “More than anything,” says Brinker, admitting that the brand started as a hobby, “we hope to keep making things that make people happy.”

If you’re catering to Gen Y and Gen Z clients, look no further than 2-year-old London-based Ania Haie. Delicate chains, clusters of earrings, and easy, breezy bracelets—crafted in sterling silver and plated in rhodium or 14k gold—will appeal to young (and young at heart) shoppers seeking trendy but not over-the-top jewels. “Customers tell us it has a very broad appeal. The younger customer who is social media– savvy, [age] 25 to 35, especially adores Ania Haie,” says cofounder Andy Maine. “We wanted a brand that was affordable, and customers could buy regularly to match the high-street trends. There are more expensive and lowerprice items such as ear cuffs, which are great presents.” The Crush ear cuff, for instance, can be had for just $19. And wearers can easily create a neck mess with $29–$129 chains. “We have a design team working with mood boards and fashion forecasting. The catwalk trends give us lots of inspiration,” explains Maine. “Layering and wearing multiple pieces are the key.” On the Ania Haie website, you can even sort through jewels—which are sold at more than 700 U.S. retailers alone— according to trend. Just a few of the very wearable current collections: Chain Reaction, Modern Minimalism, and Bohemian Dream.

If you’re getting a carefree, tropical island getaway vibe from Jam + Rico’s jewelry, that’s no coincidence. Though founder-designer Lisette Scott was raised in New York, the Caribbean is her source of inspiration. “Rooted in my culture of Jamaican and Puerto Rican heritage, I’ve been driven to reconnect to the islands my grandparents left behind,” says Scott, whose 4-year-old Jam + Rico is a portmanteau of those nations’ names. “The Caribbean is full of color, adventure, and wonderful, loving people. Once a year, we select an island to visit and find inspiration from the colors, traditions, foods, and natural beauty.” That inspiration is evident in each design, such as the half-moon Carmen earrings, threaded with silk tassels or the triple-tiered Sol earrings, which evoke golden sunsets. “My mom had the most beautiful costume jewelry from the ’80s. I knew I wanted to work with brass, sterling silver, and gold plating to create pieces of this same quality,” says Scott, whose styles rarely go above $100. “I wanted to create jewelry my friends and peers will be able to enjoy.” As much as Scott is able to take from the Caribbean, the designer is hoping Jam + Rico will soon be able to give something back. “My dream is to move my production to Jamaica and Puerto Rico.”

N PREPARING TO move and rebrand his Naperville, Ill., jewelry store FOR PROFESSIONAL SERVICES this year, Kevin Lydon leaned into the swelling so-called gig economy for Upwork, which bills itself as “the largest and most trusted freelancer site,” features a helping hand. a deep bench of talent across various disciplines. Need a social media m anager? Lydon, who changed the name of his 16-year-old jewelry store from The Check. A search engine optimization expert? Check. A web designer? Check. Diamond Gallery to The Diamond Studio, posted a call for a new logo Beyond Upwork, Freelancer offers another robust option where business owners and signage ideas on Crowdspring, an online marketplace for crowdsourced can find giggers experienced in areas such as website development, content writing, creative services. Within days, he received multiple submissions from more digital marketing, search engine optimization, bookkeeping, and e-commerce. than a dozen designers around the world. “That’s just not something I could effectively get if I stayed local,” Lydon FOR YOUR TO-DO LIST says. “I was able to throw this request out into the world and get a lot of At TaskRabbit, retailers can hire vetted people to tidy up a shop’s exterior, build interesting concepts back from people really on their game.” furniture, plant flowers, pick up dry cleaning, complete handyman-like repair Reviewing his options, Lydon selected a designer based in Romania. For projects, or tackle any number of routine yet time-consuming tasks lingering on $300, she crafted a logo to Lydon’s lika store’s to-do list. ing before the veteran jewelry retailer tapped her for additional projects, including FOR YOUR CREATIVE NEEDS his new store’s letterhead and business cards. Fiverr has emerged as a popular platform for “It’s been a rather seamless, easy process and those in need of graphic designers for logos, one that’s resulted in some great work we’re brochures, or postcards and other creative conreally proud of,” says Lydon, who frequently tent, even jingles. Crowdspring is another gofarms out creative projects to external partners to source for creative talent, especially in the with the expertise and time to produce profesareas of branding and identity, product design sional designs. and packaging, and web and mobile design. According to reports from the McKinsey Global Institute, the Freelancers Union, and FOR TECH KNOW-HOW management services provider MBO Partners, While Fortune called HelloTech a “bolt-on roughly 25%–30% of the U.S. workforce Geek Squad,” it might be just as easy to think participates in the gig economy, the nontradiof the Los Angeles–based company as Uber tional, flexible, freelance-style work popularfor information technology support. Workers GIVE YOURSELF A HAND— ized by companies such as Uber, Rover, and across the country will report to an on-site L I T E R A L LY. H E R E ’ S H OW J E W E L R Y DoorDash. Many economists expect these location to tackle any number of tech-related R E TA I L E R S C A N TA P I N TO numbers could accelerate amid the economic tasks, such as repairing computers, setting up T H E B O O M I N G G I G E C O N O M Y. struggles and rising unemployment spawned a Wi-Fi network, mounting a television, or by the COVID-19 pandemic. installing a smart device. b y D a n i e l P. S m i t h Much has been made of the gig economy’s Illustration by effect on the labor market—specifically, how Bratislav Milenković FOR A SET OF HELPING HANDS its ascent has challenged small-business ownFancy Hands is an on-demand virtual assisers’ ability to attract and retain talent. But the tant. Users can send in a request—research gig economy also boasts the potential to help phone company rates, set up a conference these entrepreneurs, including jewelry retailers, call, or find local window-cleaning services, gain time, access skills not present in their internal workforce, and overcome a for example—and Fancy Hands’ U.S.-based team of assistants perform the neclack of resources to succeed in a competitive marketplace. essary work and supply results. “Small-business owners can leverage crowdsourcing and the gig economy to stand above the crowd,” says Ross Kimbarovsky, who founded Crowdspring in FOR LEGAL ASSISTANCE 2007 and remains its CEO. LawTrades matches business owners to freelance attorneys capable of addressing Crowdspring hosts more than 220,000 creatives from nearly 200 countries. an assortment of legal issues such as trademarks, patents, employment contracts, They produce a range of deliverables, such as custom logo design, packaging and independent contractor agreements. graphics, taglines, company naming services, and product design, including jewelry. FOR AN ADDED PUNCH OF INCOME As the gig economy continues to infiltrate all facets of contemporary life, it With the gig economy, business owners can also create new income streams by presents jewelry retailers with an opportunity to use freelancers to their personal leveraging underutilized resources. On platforms such as SpotHero and Pavemint, and professional advantage. Read on for some ways to tap into this fast-growing for instance, retailers can rent out unused parking spaces, which are valuable slabs segment. of real estate in some urban areas.

THE GIG PICTURE

TA K E S

TWO D E S I G N C O L L A B O R AT I O N S A R E A S M A RT WAY T O G E N E R AT E BUZZ, REACH NEW AUDIENCES, A N D U LT I M AT E LY D R I V E S A L E S . H E R E ’ S W H AT M A K E S T H E M O D E L S U C C E S S F U L — A N D H OW JEWELERS CAN MAKE IT WORK FOR THEM ON A LOCAL LEVEL.

by Amy Elliott

LTHOUGH 2020 HAS been tough going, the year began with some memorable jewelry design collaborations that epitomized why alliances between like-minded brands are so popular—and powerful. There was the Lark & Berry x Diamond Foundry suite from the Academy Awards in February, followed by Jennifer Fisher x CB2 in March. And more recently, to the delight of watch collectors worldwide, Swiss manufactures MB&F and H. Moser & Cie mingled their DNA to cocreate two extremely rare limited-edition timepieces in June. These are just a few examples, and there are plenty more to come this fall. The design collaboration model may have begun at Tiffany & Co., when former design director John Loring initiated a collection with Paloma Picasso in 1980 (and Frank Gehry in 2006). Many present-day matchups likewise involve a jeweler partnering with an artist, fashion designer, or influencer, from Mikimoto x Comme des Garçons to Annoushka x Austy Lee. We can also thank Target (x Isaac Mizrahi) and H&M (x Karl Lagerfeld) for firmly planting the concept into our cultural consciousness in 2003 and 2004, respectively. Around 2010, J. Crew also got in the game, developing c ollaboration product lines with costume jewelry designer Lulu Frost, not to mention a slew of non-jewelry brands. But the runaway success of those collaborations was about the novelty of mixing high and low—that formula doesn’t really translate well to the world of fine jewelry (though Temple St. Clair did go on a “Target run” in 2010).

MB&F’s Maximilian Büsser and H. Moser & Cie’s Edouard Meylan

The sold-out LM101 MB&F x H. Moser with fumé dial, double hairspring, and domed sapphire crystal

A marble and acrylic jewelry storage tower ($199) from CB2’s Jennifer Fisher Collection

Bring the Drama Power Band with diamonds in 18k gold and platinum; starting at $6,300; Hayley Paige for Hearts On Fire; 617-523-5588; heartsonfire.com

Love and Kisses earrings in 18k gold with diamonds; $3,600; Stephen Webster x Tracey Emin; pierre.bolze@ stephenwebster.com; stephenwebster.com

What does work: thoughtfully blended, creative undertakings that result in something rare, often one-of-a-kind, and irresistibly novel—without compromising the integrity of the end p roduct. This could be a gemstone mine placing its product in the hands of talented designers; a heritage jewelry brand joining forces with a younger, fresher voice (see Georg Jensen x Sophie Bille Brahe or Swarovski x Paige Novick); or a cross-genre experiment (like when the Detroit-based lifestyle brand Shinola produced a timepiece with Radio Flyer, or when the fine jeweler Yi Collection did a line with SoulCycle). “We have always embraced opportunities to collaborate,” says veteran British jewelry designer Stephen Webster, who has partnered with brands as varied as Dom Pérignon and Grey Goose as well as the artist Tracey Emin. “Results of our collaborative projects have not only been very successful, but have also pushed us in a direction that we probably would not have explored under our own single direction.” Another pioneer in this world has to be Sally Morrison, who, during her tenures at the Diamond Information Center, the World Gold Council, and the ruby and emerald miner Gemfields, made designer collaborations a hallmark of her career. (Morrison is currently public relations director for natural diamonds at De Beers Group.) “I’m interested in putting valuable and fabulous materials in the hands of very creative people,” Morrison said last year when she was a guest on JCK ’s podcast, The Jewelry District. “There

are some people that are very creative but could never afford to create these kinds of things commercially, and if you can get those pieces in a very visible place like the red carpet, it pushes your material into a cultural conversation in a much bigger way.” A red-carpet appearance remains a kind of holy grail for mines and producers: Gemfields enjoyed an iconic moment at the 2017 Oscars when actress Ruth Negga wore a tiara featuring 146 cts. of Gemfields rubies made by designer Irene Neuwirth in collaboration with Negga’s stylist, Karla Welch. But does command of the spotlight translate to sales? Turns out, commercial success isn’t always the goal. As Gabriella Harvey, head of business development for Muzo Emerald Colombia, explains, “The ROI [return on investment] for the designer is an opportunity to create a collection using Muzo emeralds that tells a story of traceability, which is becoming more important for jewelry purchases. Muzo benefits when the finished piece is sold; however, our main objective is more about creating awareness and educating the industry and end consumers.” Meanwhile, other design collaborations— such as Hearts On Fire’s recent teaming with wedding dress designer Hayley Paige—feel more strategic from an ROI perspective. “The key to a successful collaboration is when it adds r elevancy and newness while broadening your brand’s appeal to a new audience,” says Hearts On Fire president Caryl Capeci. “This is why Hearts On Fire by Hayley Paige had a great ROI for the

“Our collaborative projects have pushed us in a direction that we probably would not have explored.” —Stephen Webster

Friends-turnedcollaborators Alli Webb and Maya Brenner

Two-tier studs with 9.7 cts. t.w. Muzo emeralds in black enamel and 18k white gold; $4,800; Muzo x Katherine Jetter; info@ katherinejetter.com; katherinejetter.com

Faceted comfort stud, $120; turquoise huggie, $250; onyx huggie, $250; opal comfort stud, $130 (all in 14k gold); Maya Brenner x Alli Webb; orders@ mayabrenner.com; mayabrenner.com

brand and for our retail partners. It took our very popular category of diamond bands and told a different story from a different perspective. Since launch, the diamond bands from the HOF x HP collection have sold through at retail two times faster than the HOF diamond band category.” Los Angeles–based designer Maya Brenner has pursued collaborations with a diverse group of brands, from the stationery company Paperchase to the athleisure line Beyond Yoga. In February, Brenner debuted a style-meets-comfort jewelry line

she developed with Alli Webb, owner of Drybar, the blow-dry salon and hair care franchise. It’s centered on studs with specially designed backs that don’t poke you when you sleep (an idea that came from Webb, who has five piercings in each ear). “She loves jewelry, which makes her a perfect partner, and she’s such an entrepreneur and a great promoter and knows the market,” says Brenner, who became friends with Webb when they met at a wedding in Mexico City. Maya Brenner x Alli Webb recently landed at Nordstrom, thanks to Webb’s connection to the department store, which carries her Drybar line. It was a retail channel that Brenner didn’t have access to previously, and the exposure to such a large base of new customers is invaluable; the monetary benefits are even more so. Because attracting as many customers as possible is more important now than ever before, Main Street jewelers might consider applying the principles of these high-profile design collaborations to their local milieu. Could you partner with a spa, salon, or yoga studio on a capsule line? At holiday time, your top designer could create renderings or full-color CAD drawings that get transferred onto chocolates or other sweets made by a local confectionery (see Kimberly McDonald x Sugarfina for ideas). Maybe there’s a local blogger who seems simpatico with your brand, and you develop a limited-edition line together, with a launch event—and eye-catching campaign—to promote it. As the saying goes, we’re all in this together, and collaborating with another local business to give all of your customers something novel, beautiful, and hyperlocal to delight in might be the perfect place to start.

K E Y R I N G S

UNCOMMONLY BEAUTIFUL WEDDING JEWELS FOR YOUR CHOOSIEST CLIENTS Digital art by Alfredo Ceballos

5 1

ALTERNATIVE

1. Tourmaline Hex Ballerina ring with 1.24 ct. tourmaline and 1.12 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; starting at $8,500; Marrow; info@marrowfine. com; marrowfine.com

2. Selena ring with 0.79 ct. color-change sapphire and 0.135 ct. t.w. brilliant-cut white diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $2,295; Valerie Madison; hello@ valeriemadison.com; valeriemadison.com

3. Amaryllis ring with cushion-cut purplish-pink tourmaline and white diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $1,950; Vale Jewelry; info@shopvale.com; shopvale.com

4. Ring with 2.7 ct. gray-blue sapphire and 0.78 ct. t.w. round brilliant diamonds in 14k white gold; $3,350; Sheryl Jones Jewels; 917208-4355; sheryl jonesjewels.com

5. Asymmetrical cluster ring with lotus garnet, precious topaz, and white and champagne diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $3,000; Mociun; online@mociun.com; mociun.com

KEY: ANTAGAIN/ISTOCK/GETTY

OVALS

1. Brune ring in recycled 18k white gold with 1 ct. brilliant-cut oval diamond held by eight clawed prongs; $955 (without center stone); ILA; sales@ ilacollection.com; ilacollection.com 2. Signature Oval Button Back ring with 0.75 ct. oval diamond in Georgian cut-down 18k white and yellow gold setting; ÂŁ8,000 ($10,020); Jessica McCormack; enquiries@ jessicamccormack .com; jessica mccormack.com

3. Oval Rosette ring with 1 ct. oval white diamond and 0.11 ct. t.w. white diamonds in recycled 14k white gold; $9,500; Anna Sheffield; info@ annasheffield.com; annasheffield.com 4. Halo platinum ring with 4.04 ct. MovĂĄl diamond, 0.77 ct. t.w. trapezoid-cut diamonds, and 0.16 ct. t.w. melee; price on request; Rahaminov Diamonds; 213-6229866; rahaminov.com 5. Oval-shape vintage-inspired ring with 0.42 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k gold; $3,350 (without center stone); Noam Carver Bridal; sales@ crownring.com; noamcarver.com

LOCK: DEM10/E+/GETTY

GYPSIES

2. Raki ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.53 ct. t.w. fancy-cut white diamonds; $4,998; Julez Bryant; 844-5257775; julezbryant.com 3. Diamond Kite Gypsy ring in 18k yellow gold with 1.03 cts. t.w. diamonds, price on request; Brent Neale; 646-745-6831; brentneale.com

4. Mosaic band with round faceted multicolored sapphires in 22k Apricot gold; $4,200; Reinstein Ross; info @reinsteinross.com; reinsteinross.com 5. Small Jubilation Cigar Band in 14k yellow gold with nine baguette-cut gemstones; $2,300; Emily Kuvin Jewelry Design; emk@emilykuvin. com; emilykuvin.com

KEY: ALEX STAR/ISTOCK/GETTY

1. Custom 14k yellow gold ring with repurposed diamonds and sapphires made for JCK editor Brittany Siminitz; Single Stone; info@ singlestone.com; singlestone.com

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ZO O T HE

IN THE AGE OF COVID-19, THE SAVVIEST BRIDAL RETAILERS HAVE GONE DIGITAL. ONCE YOU GET A FEEL FOR THE NEW FRONTIER, YOU CAN FAST-TRACK YOUR WAY TO A SEASON FILLED WITH UNPRECEDENTED WEDDING JEWELRY SALES. by Amy Elliott

COURTESY OF SINGLE STONE

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OM (This page) Single Stone discussing a 2.53 ct. Christina ring on a virtual appointment; (insets) a Tacori RoyalT three-stone ring; Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelryâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;designed engagement rings; (opposite page, l.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;r.) lifestyle images from Christopher Designs, Tacori, and Stephanie Gottlieb

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Tacori markets its made-in-California background.

HETHER YOU’RE KEEPING regular hours now, with masks and hand sanitizer at the ready, or open only by appointment, selling engagement rings and wedding bands couldn’t be more different than it was before COVID-19 disrupted life on and off the sales floor. The ongoing reality—and crippling uncertainty—of the pandemic means retailers have a whole new set of requirements. And not just regarding health and safety. Jewelers who hope to be successful in the wedding jewelry space have no choice but to modernize their approach. And many already have, shifting their focus to their digital presence, adding chat functionality to site features, conducting virtual appointments with clients, hosting livestream events, and adding augmented reality tools to their digital storefronts. “If COVID-19 has taught us anything, it is the power of speed, convenience, and information visibility,” says Caryl Capeci, president of Boston-based Hearts On Fire. “The consumer is driving the speed of change, and the retail industry must adapt. Brands and retailers must come together and partner in new ways to bring creative storytelling, product showcasing, and exceptional service to a new level.” Already some general best practices have emerged, and some jewelry pros have become experts in virtual sales seemingly

A few of Christopher Designs’ Crisscut diamond styles

overnight. Where should your focus be? What turns an online consultation into a fruitful transaction? We spoke with leading bridal suppliers, independent retailers, e-comm-only jewelry sellers, and designers who sell engagement rings d irectly to consumers to nail down what today’s bridal customers expect and respond to—and what it takes to convert them.

INSTAGRAM OR BUST

“Especially in the COVID era, it’s so important for companies to be flexible and foster a sense of community online.” — Olivia Landau, The Clear Cut

The Clear Cut’s homepage

If selling on Instagram hasn’t become a priority, make it one. Younger designers and brands rely almost entirely on this platform to move product, and it’s a tactic that pays off. “We sell millions of dollars’ worth of diamonds through our social channels,” says Olivia Landau, cofounder and CEO of The Clear Cut, an online diamond retailer established in 2018. “Especially in the COVID era, it’s so important for companies to be flexible and foster a sense of community online.” Traditional retailers may find this a tall order because of the time and manpower involved, but hiring a social media–savvy professional to enhance your Instagram presence and transact in this space is your way in. (For perspective, The Clear Cut employs six staffers exclusively dedicated to Instagram shopping.) So make sure someone on your team is guiding the Instagram portion of your business; the opportunities are too valuable for a hit-or-miss approach. Your bridal vendors are also there to help. For example, Tacori has done a virtual event takeover of Lighthouse Point, Fla., jeweler J.R. Dunn’s Instagram account to showcase its newest items. And New York City–based Christopher Designs creates new lifestyle images to post on Instagram every day. “We also supply our retail partners with this content to promote on their websites, social media accounts, and directly with clients,” says Christopher Designs’ director of marketing, Katie Hamian. Get a good posting cadence going, and handle inquiries promptly. (Pro tip: Landau says Instagram shoppers expect a response to direct messages within 24 hours if not sooner.)

103 Stephanie Gottlieb shows her followers nine 5 ct. diamonds.

“We’re lucky that our clientele feels comfortable on Zoom and that they trust Google Reviews, where we are very highly rated.” —Valerie Madison

A collection of Tacori RoyalT eternity bands

GORGEOUS VISUALS, COMPELLING CONTENT The look and feel of your website have never been more critical; customers are going here before they ever set foot in your store, especially now. Same with your social channels. So investing in quality photography, whether you hire a pro or figure out how to do it yourself, is essential. New York City–based jewelry designer Stephanie Gottlieb has found that having strong visuals accompanied by captions is effective. “Beautiful pictures may build a good following, but without the authenticity and expert insights, this may not convert to sales.” Gottlieb tries to craft captions that provide education and instill confidence in the customer. “On the flip side, this generation of online shoppers is highly visual, so they don’t want to be served information that isn’t accompanied by beautifully styled images.” As for investing in a glossy campaign for your digital platforms, Severine Ferrari, founder and editor of Engagement 101, thinks effective content is less about the images and more about the message. “Videos and shots showing the ring different ways and on different hands are very important,” she says. “Even more so this year, I think people are used to less artifice, more authenticity, and a more inclusive idea of what and who is beautiful. Polished still photography is not really resonating.” Gottlieb agrees: “I think the Instagram generation prefers the more ‘real’ frame that an iPhone can achieve.”

GET USED TO BEING ON CAMERA Virtual appointments are the new normal, and sales associates must become fluent in their nuances. Seattle-based jewelry designer Valerie Madison says her virtual consultations are similar to her in-person appointments, despite the presence of a screen. “We use the same client questionnaire that covers important details like ring setting, stone details, budget,

and timeline,” Madison says. “We’re lucky that our clientele feels very comfortable on Zoom and that they trust Google Reviews, where we are very highly rated. And when clients come prepared and have done their research on what they are looking for, it’s overall a much more successful experience.” Tiffany Bayley, owner of Avalon Park Jewelers in Orlando, Fla., says one major difference between virtual and in-person bridal appointments is that “customers that book one-onone private consultations are not shopping—they’re buying!” Bayley has offered videoconferencing for her clients for years and has sold hundreds of custom pieces via FaceTime. “But if you are fighting for every penny, and you have five competitor stores within 5 miles of you, you better bring your A game,” she cautions. “Keep it lively, generate enthusiasm about the project at hand, but don’t forget to stop talking. If you just give the customer a chance, they will tell you how they can be sold.” More tips: Keep a nice, neat professional appearance (no Starbucks cups on your desk!). Focus on the jewelry, not yourself. And a small diamond light is an essential tool because, says Bayley, “sparkle always sells.” Again, lean on your brand partners, who have the budgets for research and development and test-and-learn projects. For example, Tacori has furnished its retailers with a simple tech package to help them finesse their virtual appointments. It includes a variety of virtual backgrounds and a set of best practices based on Tacori’s own direct-to-consumer initiative (developed in May for customers who couldn’t be physically present at a brick-and-mortar store to pick their Tacori ring). Implement these strategies at a pace you can manage. Start with whatever you think is most manageable, get comfortable, and push yourself toward bigger and better improvements from there. Just don’t hesitate or dither— your customers won’t wait.

SCREEN TIME

In addition to tools offered by your suppliers, a host of new technology is available to help bridal retailers innovate and augment the shopping experience. Buyers Intelligence Group and Boss Logic’s new Together platform (pictured above) creates a virtual in-store experience that connects suppliers with retailers or retailers with customers via built-in videoconferencing and clienteling tools. (bigjewelers.com) Flourish & Thrive Academy custom-builds virtual trunk shows within your own content management system so customers can see designers’ new lines in full. (flourishthriveacademy.com) Mirelz, an augmented reality provider, offers try-before-you-buy technology; Kendra Scott recently used it to introduce a mobile-based virtual try-on service. (mirelz.com) Virtual Diamond Boutique, a loose-diamond marketplace accessible on mobile devices, is “extremely visual and easy to use for a screen share,” says consultant Andrea Hill of Hill Management Group. (vdbapp.com)

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B Y I N V I T A T I O N O N LY

Wednesday, June 2 – Thursday, June 3, 2021 O P E N TO A L L J C K L A S V E G A S AT T E N D E E S

Friday, June 4 – Monday, June 7, 2021 THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS

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SEPTEMBER 2020

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

THE VAULT UP THE ANTE The hero elements in this extraordinary 18k rose gold watch include a 1 ct. Jacob-cut diamond (a proprietary cut that features 288 distinct facets), a magnesium lacquered blue globe that fully rotates every 30 seconds, and on-demand animation of the roulette wheel via a pusher located at the 8 o’clock position.

HOUSE EDGE Jacob & Co. made only 88 Casino timepieces and is offering to add each buyer’s lucky number to personalize the roulette wheel, which is crafted in rose gold and lacquer with an aventurine center. A sapphire crystal above the wheel keeps the ceramic ball from bouncing into the movement.

WHEEL OF FORTUNE

SPIN CYCLE

JACOB & CO. has taken its action-packed Astronomia watch to mind-blowing new levels of complexity (and fun!) with the Astronomia Casino: a limited edition featuring a miniature, fully functioning roulette wheel, complete with an actual bouncing ball. “I think people will be surprised by how real the experience is,” says chief content officer Keith W. Strandberg. “You push the button and it feels like you’re in a casino.” —EMILI VESILIND

Creating each element took time: The roulette animation took over a year to develop, the Jacob-cut diamond required roughly two weeks to cut, and the sapphire crystal that surrounds the watch “is also highly specialized,” Strandberg notes. “Only one manufacturer can do it, and it takes upwards of 60 hours of machining, polishing, and finishing.”

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Stardust locket in 14k yellow gold with diamonds; $1,350; Sofia Zakia; info@ sofiazakia.com; sofiazakia.com

Celestial Sky Talisman signet ring in 14k gold with hand-cut 24k gold imagery on oxidized silver in portraitcut crystal quartz; $2,900; Acanthus; acanthusjewelry@ gmail.com; acanthus jewelry.com

GOLD

Moonbeam Moonstone Diamond necklace with 71.2 ct. hand-carved moonstone and 1.4 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $14,500; Brooke Gregson; 310-745-9659; brookegregson.com

TREND GAME

FOR HEAVEN’S SAKE CELESTIAL MOTIFS ARE evergreen in jewelry, but not since the Victorian era have we seen so much demand for jewels boasting planetary inspiration. The sun, moon, stars, and planets feel especially luxe when wrought in real gold. Designers such as Andrea Fohrman and Sofia Zakia built their popular permanent collections on real-gold celestial styles, but emerging brands including Minnesota-based Acanthus and New York City’s Cyril have been looking to the cosmos recently to create romantic, witchy-feeling gold jewels. Consider us spellbound. —EMILI VESILIND

14k yellow gold bead bracelet with white diamond and black enamel moon and star medallion; $1,320; Sydney Evan; 213-2364444; sydneyevan.com SEPTEMBER 2020

14k yellow gold charm with white diamonds on 14k yellow gold chain; $1,595; rouleand company.com

HOT STOCK TIP

TECH VS. TRADITION Inspired by cross-stitch samplers and 8-bit digital fonts, Roule & Co.’s new Pixel Dust monogram pendants are a playful embodiment of retro-futurism, or “techno-folk,” says New York City–based cofounder Laurin Lucaire. The half-inch-high pendants are available in every capital letter and also in heart, bird, and rosebud shapes. The designer says she and her cofounder—her husband, Christopher Roule—have “always been fascinated by the overlap between primitive and modern forms.” —EV

GOLD PRICE HITS ALL-TIME HIGH! SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE.

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the vault

COLORED STONES

HOT STOCK TIP

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INLAY THE FAVORITE When Toronto-based designer Evie Olszewska, founder of Evie Fine Jewelry, was presented with an opportunity to collaborate with an inlay artist, she jumped at the chance—and designed a collection of pendants featuring rainbows of colored gemstones in beautifully bohemian motifs. —EMILI VESILIND Evil Eye inlay pendant in 14k yellow gold with diamonds, opal, mother-ofpearl, lapis, and turquoise; CA$2,520 ($1,896); eviefinejewelry.com

18k white gold Whale and Boat ring with 1.6 cts. t.w. white diamonds, 30.5 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, and 24k gold flakes; $27,000

18k white gold emerald solitaire ring with 4.45 cts. t.w. black diamonds and 1.65 cts. t.w. emeralds; $37,000; Dreamboule; sales@ dreamboule.com; dreamboule.com

18k white gold Snake and Pearl ring with a 12.7 mm Tahitian pearl, 0.04 ct. t.w. diamonds on ring, and 2.03 cts. t.w. diamonds on bezel; price on request

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

SCENE STEALERS JCKONLINE.COM

TO SHOWCASE A tiny “world within a world” is the goal of the breathtaking rings by Italian jewelry brand Dreamboule, founded in 2018 by Ben Crocco, an alumnus of the Swiss watch brand Hublot. The cabochon cocktail rings feature tiny scenes erected on watch bezels in 18k gold and precious gemstones—frozen forever inside a scratchproof sapphire glass flooded by an undisclosed liquid Crocco calls a “dream solution.” It took four years of research and development to figure out how to bring these rings to life. Clearly, they were worth the wait. —EV

NADINE AYSOY ’S NEW CATENA COLLECTION! SEE jckonline.com/topics/colored-stones FOR THAT AND MORE. SEPTEMBER 2020

F R I DAY, J U N E 4 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; M O N DAY, J U N E 7, 2 0 2 1 | S A N D S E X P O & T H E V E N E T I A N , LV | J C KO N L I N E . C O M / L A S V E G A S

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SEPTEMBER 2020

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME

CLIQUE BAIT

Some brands and influencers are giving their most dedicated followers a chance to get insider content—for a small fee VIOLETA STOIMENOVA/E+/GETTY

BY EMILI VESILIND

NSTAGR AM WAS ONCE the most serene of the social platforms. All arty photos and spare captions, it felt like a true respite from Facebook’s aggressive linking and busy interfaces. But the network grew—it now has more than a billion users—and lately, it’s become a sponsor-cluttered space powered by pitiless pay-to-play algorithms. Insta’s current hyper-commercialized state has some social movers and shakers looking for ways to connect with followers in more meaningful ways while also creating new revenue streams. Avenues to do just that have been cropping up both on the ’Gram—most notably, Instagram’s Close Friends feature—and off it, on Patreon, a versatile platform for communicating directly with smaller groups of fans, sans ads. Here’s how brands are using both.

INSTAGRAM’S CLOSE FRIENDS The network debuted Close Friends in 2017 as a way for users to self-select a smaller audience for certain pieces

of content. Close Friends content is hidden from a feed’s wider audience. Influencers have always relied on paid partnerships to monetize their content. But several, including Instagram personality Caroline Calloway (@carolinecalloway), are now charging fans a small fee for placement on their Close Friends list. Brands will likely soon follow suit, dangling discounts, giveaways, and other motivators as incentive to join an inner circle. For companies, the model is worth exploring. For fees starting at $3 per month, they can offer Close Friends—a concentrated pool of highly motivated clients—discount codes, bonus content, and access to new products, and expect a high degree of engagement in return.

PATREON Patreon debuted in 2013 but really started picking up steam last year as a place for thought leaders, makers, retailers, and influencers to corral fans willing to “patronize” their brands

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in exchange for exclusive offerings. Patreon users typically set up tiers of monthly memberships, with subscriptions as low as $1 a month. One example: Reverie Jewelry, a small brand based in Washington, N.C., has three membership tiers: $1, $5, and $10. For $1, you get behind-the-scenes photos, updates, and news; $5 gets you all that plus a monthly $5 coupon code. The $10 tier delivers news and behind-thescenes info plus a $10 discount code. Liz Kantner, owner of the Stay Gold e-commerce shop, set up a Patreon last year to monetize her work for jewelry brands. “I love helping emerging designers, but most of them can’t afford my consulting,” she says. Currently, she has 55 designers in her Patreon community who pay $40 a month to join in on weekly Zoom chats, which include interviews with industry experts once a month. She also shares updates and quick tips with members on a private Instagram page. “Designers have been seeking community,” Kantner says.

Tool Time

‌THE GOODS

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The Venu can store up to 500 songs wearers can listen to untethered from a smartphone.

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

GARMIN VENU Garmin, arguably the most respected sports smartwatch brand on the market, designed its new Venu model to be the ultimate sports watch. Yes, it tells time, has text and call alerts, and plays music. But its forte is tracking and measuring sports performance, along with facets of your overall health. More than 20 preset activities—including running, walking, bicycling, swimming, golfing, and skiing—are instantly trackable. And the watch doubles as a tiny stand-alone f itness studio: It comes preloaded with step-by-step animated cardio, strength, yoga, and Pilates workouts. Perfect for frequent travelers. —EMILI VESILIND

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

FOREDOM RT101 ROTARY TUMBLER

What we liked: Like the Apple Watch, the watch goes blank when you’re not looking at it; a lift of the wrist kicks its screen into gear. You can customize both indoor and outdoor workouts on the Venu, then track their duration and intensity. The device also has automatic rep tracking for strength training, which is both nifty and useful. Best features: When fully charged, it has five days of battery life. And the Venu is the first Garmin with an AMOLED touch-screen display, which is more responsive and vibrantly colored than standard-issue LCD screens (Apple Watch switched to AMOLED screens in 2020). This wristbound fitness buddy looks and feels premium. ($349.99; garmin.com)

Versatility and cutting-edge technology distinguish Gesswein’s new Foredom RT101 Rotary Tumbler from its competitors. Designed to burnish precious metals, this solidly built, compact, direct-drive rotary tumbler lets you program repeatable processes into its easy-to-use control panel. Simply set the tumbler’s timer up to 180 minutes, choose the direction of rotation, and pick from 20 levels of speed control (ranging from 5 rpm to 100 rpm). The machine’s clear hexagonal barrel lets you watch the tumbling in action. And you’ll never have to replace a belt because this gem of a jewel tool operates without one. ($359.95; gesswein.com) —EV

TIKTOK DEBUTS TIKTOK FOR BUSINESS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

SEPTEMBER 2020

What it does: A lot. The Venu’s long list of features includes wristbased heart rate tracking; detection of irregularities in blood oxygen saturation, sleep health, and respiration; Garmin Pay for contactless payments; alerts for emails and texts; and the ability to send your realtime location to a preset list of emergency contacts—a great safety feature for long-distance runners, among others.

Gesswein’s Foredom RT101 Rotary Tumbler features a 1-liter capacity.

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

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Arch Crown Inc. Le Vian® Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com

The latest Le Vian® addition to its Phenomena Gems™ collection features dazzling 4.75 ct. Peacock Aquaprase™ drop earrings surrounded by Vanilla Topaz™ and set in Strawberry Gold®.

Promote Your Brand Name on Custom Tags & Labels! Custom tags and labels communicate your store’s unique identity. Let the recipient know where the gift came from with cost-effective custom tags and labels.

Midas Chain

Stuller Inc.

151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

Turn a delicate motif into a cherished memory with the Midas children’s collection. Fit for a princess, the mini lariat necklace in 14k yellow gold features a crown station and puffy heart. MSRP: $345

men We created 302® Fine Jewelry to help women d styles express their individuality. These on-trend are the mementos women wear to signify who hey’ve they are, where they’re going, and what they’ve ewelry. done. Learn more at stuller.com/302finejewelry.

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc.

RDI Diamonds

10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com R & P has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.

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2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 844-742-6591 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again. You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100% Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.

SEPTEMBER 2020

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

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Lashbrook Charles & Colvard Tel: 800-210-4367 Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Website: charlesandcolvard.com

131 E. 13065 S. Draper, UT 84020 Tel: 888-252-7388 Fax: 801-352-7236 Email: marketing@lashbrookdesigns.com Website: lashbrookdesigns.com

Forever One™ is the finest of all created moissanite. Each gemstone is exquisitely cut and faceted to maximize the fire and brilliance, offering your customers a luxurious product at an accessible price point.

Today’s customers expect more. We love that! At Lashbrook, we create custom and award-winning styles using precious and alternative metals, stones, and other exotic materials. Now you can give your customers exactly what they want.

Berkley Asset Protection

Royal Chain Group

757 Third Ave., 10th Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 440-630-9378 Email: mbecker@berkleyassetpro.co mbecker@berkleyassetpro.com Website: berkleyassetpro.com Since 2008, Berkley Asset Protection has delivered the industry’s most complete and high quality portfolio of specialized insurance products and services designed to protect fine art, jewelry, and other high-value personal and commercial assets.

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com Royal Chain is your premier source for gold, chains, and turnkey fashion. Discover our new Roaring 20s collection, featuring art deco must-haves and flapper-inspired tassels. With inventory on thousands of SKUs, there’s something for everyone.

RDI Diamonds 2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 844-742-6591 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Rare and Forever Diamonds set the standard for diamonds of the highest quality and consistency. Each diamond is graded by De Beers Group Industry Services and benefits from De Beers’ unrivaled knowledge and advanced grading technology. Text JCK3 to 877-620-1333 to learn more.

SEPTEMBER 2020

Sylvie Collection Tel: 800-992-3426 Email: info@sylviecollection.com Website: sylviecollection.com The Layla Hidden Halo engagement ring in 14k gold features a 1 ct. center and 0.51 ct. t.w. diamonds on each side of the shank and in a unique crisscross pattern on the profile (Style S1946). MSRP: $2,565

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Rembrandt Charms 370 S. Youngs Road Williamsville, NY 14221 Tel: 800-828-7840 Fax: 800-828-7811 com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Website: rembrandtcharms.com

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Jye’s International Inc. 1633 Bayshore Highway Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com

Rembrandt Charms displays produce $4,500–$7,500 in sales per square foot! The repeat business and sales generated through our Business Building Charm Program spell success for retail jewelers just like you!

Lovely petaled diamond ring in both yellow and white 18k gold. Contains 167 1.46 cts. t.w. round diamonds. MSRP: $9,000

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc.

Hoover & Strong

631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com

10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@www.hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com

Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

The ARVFCB partway bezel band is the newest addition to our selection of over 300 diamond bands. This unique band comes made to order in 10k, 14k, or 18k gold in finger sizes 4–12.

Jewelers Mutual Group

Cirari by Color Jewels

24 Jewelers Park Drive Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-336-5642, ext. 2118 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com/zing

36 W. 44th St., Suite 900 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 609-876-9454 Fax: 212-354-8488 Email: fmarkfunk@colorjewels.net Website: cirari.com

The Zing™ platform is your digital destination for core Jewelers Mutual® products. With free access to anyone in the industry, it also includes a diamond marketplace powered by IDEX and retail insurance appraisal tool featuring Gemworld.

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Sleek emerald and diamond lariat in 18k gold features a 0.62 ct. emerald and 20 diamonds (0.2 ct. t.w.) (Style N1800178) Wholesale price: $730

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TRADE SUPPLIES

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

SERVICES TO TRADE

JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES

INVISIBLE EXPERTS!

The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR • SIZING • REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES • LASER WELDING

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Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com

WATCHES & WATCH WORK ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices. Star Findings PO Box 6167, West Orange, NJ 07052 212-941-7655 ernie@starfindings.com www.starfindings.com

Stone setting and ﬁnishing Diamond supply ● Laser engraving & repair ●

JCK CLASSIFIEDS ARE ONLINE Call your JCK Sales Representative or visit JCKonline.com/classifieds

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ADVERTISING

INDEX Alrosa USA pg. 15 Website: alrosa.ru Email: FoersterR@usa.alrosa.ru Phone: 212-921-4300

Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 52 Website: gemlogis.com Email: enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333

Berkley Asset Protection pg. 31 Website: berkleyassetpro.com Email: mbecker@berkleyassetpro.com Phone: 212-922-0659 Fax: 212-922-0659

Jyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International pg. 25 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880

Box Brokers Group pg. 53 Website: boxbrokersgroup.com Email: sales@boxbrokersgroup.com Toll-Free: 800-809-3868

Lashbrook pg. 59 Website: lashbrookdesigns.com Email: info@lashbrookdesigns.com Toll-Free: 888-252-7388

Charles & Colvard pg. 4-5 Website: charlesandcolvard.com Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Toll-Free: 800-210-4367

Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN

Color Jewels / Cirari pg. 17 Website: cirari.com Email: info@cirari.com Phone: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488

Luvente pg. 19, 23, 56, 64 Website: luvente.com Phone: 212-730-1003

GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 Hoover & Strong pg. 29 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Midas pg. 6-7 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 50 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Rand & Paseka pg. 28 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006

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RDI Diamonds pg. 99, Back Cover Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rembrandt Charms pg. 61 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811 Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Stuller Inc. pg. 33 - 49 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Sylvie Collection pg. 8-9 Website: sylviecollection.com Email: cassie@spectrumdiamonds.com Phone: 800-992-3426 Fax: 214-472-9990 Synchrony Financial pg. 55 Website: synchronybusiness.com/luxury Toll-Free: 855-433-3772 Tim Roark Inc. pg. 30 Website: timroarkinc.com Email: info@trimportsatl.com Phone: 404-872-8937 Toll-free: 800-568-2011 Fax: 404-872-9346 Umicore pg. 32 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060

JCK Events pg. 10-11, 12-13, 104, 108 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 JIS Show pg. 67, 71 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 27 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411

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Copyright ÂŠ2020 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 151 No. 3 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 4 times a year in March, May, June, and September for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

SEPTEMBER 2020

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THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

LE JAZZ HOT

JOSEPHINE BAKER was one of the most famous women in Paris, her adopted city, and most of Europe during the Jazz Age. The American-born artist and civil rights activist shimmied her way to stardom, introducing her Danse Sauvage onstage in Paris in 1925 while wearing a string of artificial bananas for a skirt. With the art deco movement in full bloom, the era renewed interest in design from Egypt, Asia, and the Middle East, says jewelry writer and historian Marion Fasel. “The jewelry made during the period holds up a mirror to that sense of inquisitiveness,” she says. Baker showcased a dynamic example of African-inspired deco design in this portrait, taken in 1929, when she wore a series of necklaces by French furniture maker, artist, and sometime jeweler Jean Dunand from his Giraffe series. The collection was significant at the time, Fasel says, because “while Africa was a source of inspiration in the decorative arts, there were very few jewelry designs that show the influence of the continent. These pieces are rare in that respect.” On Baker, a rare talent, the necklaces found their ultimate model, she says. “She had incredible taste and clearly loved to make a statement.” —EMILI VESILIND

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GEORGE HOYNINGEN-HUENE /CONDE NAST COLLECTION/GETTY

Josephine Baker is a deco superstar in African-influenced necklaces by sculptor/jeweler/ lacquer master Jean Dunand

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