JCK 2020 October Issue by JCK Magazine

ANA DE ARMAS

FOR MOMENTS LIKE NO OTHER

PRESENTED BY

Natural Diamond Council NATURALDIAMONDS.COM

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

HIGH NOTES

5 L U XU RY R E TA I L E R S O N PA ND E MI C- P R O O F P R O D U CTS (H INT: D IAMONDS ARE FOREVER) OCTOBER 2020

JCKONLINE.COM

THE SOUND OF MUSIC S MO OTH J A ZZ? TO P 4 0 ? G O L D E N O L D I E S ? F I ND TH E B E S T S O U ND TR ACK F O R YO U R S TO R E .

GLOW UP

JEWELRY’S MOST L UMINOUS GEM IS HAVING A MAJOR MOMENT. PLUS: ARE PEARL E NGAGEMENT RINGS REALLY A THING?

NAturAL fANcy coLor suNNy yELLow dIAmoNds ®

877-2LEVIAN â&#x20AC;¢ LEVIAN.com

MAXIM

YOUR BUSINE S WITH ONE L IT

Introducing the Zing™ platform by Jewelers Mutual Group. The web-based platform is available on

any

JM Shipping Solution™ tool, a Diamond Marketplace powered by IDEX, a Jewelry Appraisal Solution

leve

more, all to help you thrive today, and tomorrow. The Zing Platform by Jewelers Mutual Group.

The

E SS POTENTIAL, L ITTLE CLICK.

e on

any device and offers lightning-fast access to the

tion

leveraging the expertise of Gemworld, and much

oup.

The whole jewelry industry at your

ďŹ ngertips.

JCK EVENTS | Opportunities | Promotions | Special Advertising Section

JCK Show & Tell

THE JCK 2020

State of the Jewelry Industry Report JCK has released the 2020 State of the Jewelry Industry Report. Unique for 2020, JCK conducted the survey in two parts to reveal industry outlook before and after the COVID-19 pandemic. Closures affected retailers more than manufacturers with 54% of retail respondents forced to close temporarily because of COVID-19 and 27% of responding manufacturers choosing to close temporarily because of COVID-19. The report is a must-have resource for jewelers approaching 2021 with a strategic mindset, revealing the current state of the industry, the hottest selling jewelry categories and those losing ground, consumer behavior insights and more. Purchase the JCK State of the Jewelry Industry Report at lasvegas.jckonline.com/industrysurvey. The report highlights product & retail trends. For example: • Custom-made jewelry still resonates with 38% of respondents, reporting custom jewelry sales were up from 2019 • 23% of respondents are seeing increases in bridal sales • Colored stones are performing well for jewelers, with 23% seeing an increase in sales • Diamonds are here to stay with at least one in ﬁve people surveyed seeing an increase in sales from 2019 The annual survey was conducted by the national research ﬁrm MRI-Simmons.

Available Now! Order the report today at lasvegas.jckonline.com/industrysurvey TOP PRODUCT TRENDS Alternative Engagement Rings

Layering

WILKERSON

PETER LAM

JEWELRY BUSINESSES PIVOT IN 2020 RESPONDENTS REVEALED THAT THEIR TOP STRATEGIES FOR BUSINESS CHALLENGES ARE:

48%

CONNECTING WITH CLIENTS VIA SOCIAL MEDIA

39%

40%

CHANGING INVENTORY BUYING HABITS

CLIENTELING

34%

40%

SHIFTING FOCUS TO ONLINE BUYING

ADVERTISING IN NONTRADITIONAL FORMS

Congratulations TO THE 2020 JCK INDUSTRY FUND RECIPIENTS

As global leaders in the jewelry industry, JCK strongly believes that it is an essential element and part of our corporate responsibility to give back and continue to nurture an industry that has given so much to so many. The JCK Industry Fund was created in 1997 for the purpose of deploying funds to projects that will have the most sustainable impact to improve growth and health for the industry at large. The 2020 JCK Industry Fund awarded eight industry organizations with more than $400,000. To date, more than $6 million has been given to worthy grant recipients.

— Tiffany Stevens, JVC President & CEO, 2020 JCK Industry Fund Recipient

Additional Grant Announced in 2020

“

THE JCK INDUSTRY FUND HAS PLAYED AN INTEGRAL PART IN SUPPORTING JVC’S MISSION TO SERVE THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY AND THE CONSUMER BY ACTIVELY ENCOURAGING THE HIGHEST LEVELS OF INTEGRITY IN BUSINESS. THIS YEAR, JVC WAS HONORED TO RECEIVE FUNDS TO SUPPORT NEW PROJECTS SUCH AS OUR DIGITAL UNDERSTANDING OF THE FTC GUIDES BOOK, RELEASED IN JUNE AND SUPPORTED BY MANY EDUCATIONAL WEBINARS IN OUR NEW DIGITAL ENVIRONMENT, AND OUR WORK WITH ADVOCACY AND EDUCATION ON INCREASINGLY IMPORTANT AML COMPLIANCE FOR THE TRADE. JVC CONTINUES TO OFFER GUIDANCE AND EDUCATION THROUGH THE DEVELOPMENT OF NEW RESOURCES, PRESENTATIONS AND ONE-ON-ONE CHATS TO ADDRESS THE NEEDS OF THE DIVERSE JEWELRY BUSINESS COMMUNITY.

DIVERSITY & INCLUSIVITY GRANT In August, the JCK Industry Fund Committee announced it designated a speciﬁc grant dedicated to supporting greater inclusivity within the ﬁne jewelry and watch industries by supporting BIPOC initiatives, along with all the other great causes that will be funded in 2021 based on general grant submissions. Organizations who would like to create or enhance existing programs that support increased inclusion within the U.S. jewelry industry are encouraged to develop their ideas and apply for funds. JCK Industry Fund and Diversity & Inclusivity recipients will be announced in early 2021.

HOW TO APPLY JCK Industry Fund is now accepting submissions for all 2021 grants, including a new Diversity & Inclusion Grant. Go to lasvegas.jckonline.com/jck-industry-fund/ to submit a grant request. Submit your request by Friday, November 20, 2020 for consideration.

FOLLOW @JCKEVENTS

jckinsider.com

@ j c k e v e n t s # J C K L a s Ve g a s

Colored Diamond Jewelry Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice Norman Silverman Diamonds

Colored Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000

Pearl Jewelry Over $2,500 Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Personalized Jewelry All Price Points Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Rosa Van Parys Jewelry

Mitchell K. Jewelry

Pearl Jewelry $2,500 & Under

Novel Collection

Shy Creation

Diamond Jewelry Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Tanzanite Jewelry All Price Points Inﬂuencers’ Choice Best in Show

Setu Doshi / JB Brothers USA

Diamond Jewelry Over $2,500 Gold Star Jewellery

Gabriel & Co.

Tanzanite Jewelry Editors’ Choice Platinum Jewelry Editors’ Choice Jye’s International

Colored Stone Jewelry Over $10,000 Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Platinum Jewelry Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Graziela

Schaffrath

Colored Stone Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Nicole Barr

Colored Stone Jewelry $2,500 & Under Stuller

Colored Stone Jewelry $2,500 & Under

Platinum Jewelry Over $10,000 Michael Schofield & Co.

Platinum Jewelry $10,000 & Under Malo Creations

Gold Jewelry Editors’ Choice

Silver Jewelry Inﬂuencers’ Choice Nadri Jewelry

Silver Jewelry Over $1,000 Piyaro by Aiya Designs

Silver Jewelry $1,000 & Under Editors’ Choice Nicole Barr

Contemporary Metal Jewelry Editors’ Choice Thorsten

Contemporary Metal Jewelry All Price Points Inﬂuencers’ Choice Thorsten

Mixed Metal Jewelry Over $1,000 Inﬂuencers’ Choice Rahaminov Diamonds

Veniroe

Anye Designs

Gold Jewelry Over $2,500

Lab-Grown Diamond and/or Gemstone Jewelry All Price Points Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Susan Gordon Jewelry

Stuller

Parlé Jewelry Designs

Ricardo Basta Fine Jewelry

Diamond Jewelry $2,500 & Under

Personalized Jewelry Editors’ Choice

Mixed Metal Jewelry $1,000 & Under Maui Divers Jewelry

Gold Jewelry $2,500 & Under Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Mixed Metal Jewelry Editors’ Choice

Tekin Seyrekoğlu Jewelry

Lika Behar Collection

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2020 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS FIRST PLACE WINNERS! Fashion/Bridge Jewelry Over $500 Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Best Earring Design Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Best Ring Design $2,500 & Under

Parlé Jewelry Designs

Shy Creation

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry $500 & Under

Best Earring Design $5,000 & Under

Ary D‘Po

Shy Creation

Best Necklace Design Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice

Lika Behar Collection

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry Editors’ Choice Ania Haie

Men’s Jewelry Over $1,000 Parlé Jewelry Designs

Men’s Jewelry Editors’ Choice Gabriel & Co.

Men’s Jewelry $1,000 & Under Malo Creations

Joden World Resources

Best Bracelet Design Editors’ Choice Gabriel & Co.

Best Bracelet Design Over $2,500 Shy Creation

Best Bracelet Design Over $2,500 Inﬂuencers’ Choice Norman Silverman Diamonds

Best Bracelet Design $2,500 & Under I. Reiss

Men’s Jewelry Inﬂuencers’ Choice Thorsten

Best Price Point $501–$1,000 Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice Stuller

Best Price Point $500 & Under Gabriel & Co.

Best Necklace Design Over $2,500 Parlé Jewelry Designs

Best Necklace Design Over $2,500 Norman Silverman Diamonds

Best Necklace Design $2,500 & Under Shy Creation

Best Bridal Design Over $10,000 Editors’ Choice Marisa Perry Atelier

Best Ring Design Inﬂuencers’ Choice Heavenly Vices Jewelry

Best Bridal Design $5,000–$10,000 Inﬂuencers’ Choice Atelier by Noam Carver

Best Ring Design Over $10,000

Best Bridal Design $2,501–$5,000

Novel Collection

Gabriel & Co.

Best Ring Design $5,001–$10,000 Editors’ Choice

Best Bridal Design $2,500 & Under Gabriel & Co.

Ande Jewelry

Best Earring Design Over $10,000 Ricardo Basta Fine Jewelry

Best Ring Design $5,001–$10,000

Best Statement Piece Editors’ & Inﬂuencers’ Choice Rahaminov Diamonds

Parlé Jewelry Designs

Best Earring Design $5,001–$10,000 Editors’ Choice

Best Ring Design $2,501–$5,000

Liven Co.

Malo Creations

Best Statement Piece $10,000 & Over Staryou

CONTENTS

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

WE NEED A HOLIDAY

To quote the Queen of Pop, put your troubles down; it’s time to celebrate. (With jewelry!) BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

FEATURES 56

GILT TO LAST Slinky chains, sleek hoops, and statement rings that scream classic. BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

HOW GOOD IS YOUR GOLD? Improving your gold sourcing isn’t easy or cheap. But it’s possible. BY ROB BATES

SOUND EFFECTS How the right music mix can boost customer loyalty—and sales. BY MARTHA C. WHITE

SOCIAL NET WORTH What to ask before c reating a new social profile for your jewelry biz. BY DANIEL P. SMITH

LUXE LIFE Five retailers on what they’re loving, what clients are buying, and what they’re restocking this year. BY KRISTIN YOUNG

These pieces put a modern spin on the classic gem.

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

68 OCTOBER 2020

FOREVER YOUR PEARL Are pearl engagement rings really a thing? (Yes. Yes, they are.) BY AMY ELLIOTT

MODEL: JASON KIM; ILLUSTRATION: KOLCHOZ

TO ALL THE PEARLS WE’VE LOVED BEFORE

CONTENTS

JCKONLINE.COM

DEPARTMENTS 20 JEWEL BOX

5 things rocking the industry

22 FROM THE EDITOR 24 STAFF PICKS 26 FROM THE PUBLISHER 33 NEWS GEMS

How the first-ever JCK Virtual show clicked with digital attendees

39 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER

Love Locked in Jersey City, N.J. 42 RETAIL THERAPY How has the COVID-19 pandemic changed the way you do business in 2020? 44 STORE WE ADORE Adornment + Theory in Chicago

47 THE LOOK 48 DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Yehouda Saketkhou of Yael Designs JCK ASKS... Catherine Sarr of Almasika

89 90 91 93

THE VAULT COLORED STONES SILVER

TOOL TIME How to make the most of Instagram Live. Plus: the Apollo wearable.

100 THE WAY WE WORE

OCTOBER 2020

Marisa Berenson dons stacks of chunky Tiffany yellow gold bracelets for Vogue in 1970.

OBAMA: DEMOCRATIC NATIONAL CONVENTION VIA AP; LANGHOFF: LYNDA REMUS @SWEETBYANDBYPHOTOGRAPHY

cover look

14k rose gold Lily earrings with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds, 0.48 ct. t.w. pink sapphires, and 11.7 cts. t.w. rhodolite; $5,040; Bellarri; 800-2550192; bellarri.com

Featherette 18k yellow gold necklace with 30.32 cts. t.w. orange sapphires and 1.81 cts. t.w. diamonds, $26,400, 18k yellow gold Nova pendant with 16.54 ct. citrine and 0.74 ct. t.w. diamonds, $13,200; Erica Courtney; 323-938-2373; ericacourtney.com

Ring with 15.65 ct. rubellite and 0.67 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $39,000; Dilamani 18k rose gold ring with 4.45 ct. purple garnet, 1.28 cts. t.w. pink spinel, and 0.42 ct. t.w. diamonds; $17,400; Omi Prive; 626-331-4533; omiprive.com

Eternal Love 14k yellow gold ring with 6.73 cts. t.w. citrine; $2,240; Bellarri

Eternal Love 14k rose gold ring with 9.7 cts. t.w. rhodolite; $2,510; Bellarri

18k rose gold ring with 4.82 ct. rubellite and 0.67 ct. t.w. diamonds; $9,299; Yael Designs; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com

18k white and rose gold ring with 6.5 ct. rubellite and 0.59 ct. t.w. diamonds; $11,967; Yael Designs Toi & Moi 18k rose gold ring with 1.32 ct. fire opal and 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,967; Yael Designs

Toi & Moi ring with 1.55 cts. t.w. pink sapphires and 0.12 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold; $6,604; Yael Designs

Ring with 3.08 ct. pink sapphire and diamonds in 18k gold; $22,500; Dilamani; 800-342-6677; dilamani.com

THATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S A WRAP Our annual holiday survival guide, packed with dozens of made-for-gifting jewels

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON KIM Hair: NICOLAS ELDIN/ART DEPARTMENT/ Makeup: CHARLOTTE DAY/ART DEPARTMENT Stylist: DANIEL EDLEY/WALTER SCHUPFER / Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON/ ART DEPARTMENT / Model: NOEL BERRY/IMG / Safari dress: Saint Laurent

18k yellow gold Blockette Chevron ring with 1.4 ct. Mozambique garnet, 0.04 ct. t.w. dark pink sapphires, and 0.04 ct. t.w. white diamonds; $4,550; Jennifer Dawes Design; 888-802-0880; dawes-design.com

Not pictured: Fire opal ring with 4.45 cts. t.w. pink sapphires and diamonds in 18k yellow gold, price on request, Gadbois Jewelry, 949-759-8010, gadboisjewelry.com; 18k white gold bracelet with 11.66 cts. t.w. rhodolite and 2.47 cts. t.w. diamonds, $19,665, Uneek Jewelry, 888-238-6335, uneekjewelry.com; Simone 18k yellow gold bracelet with 98 cts. t.w. diamonds, $85,000, House of Umrao, 917-913-1665 OCTOBER 2020

JCKONLINE.COM

cover look Power Pearl baroque pearl necklace with composite tagua and coral hand-carved flowers, pearl and jade beads, and 18k yellow gold vermeil clasp; $1,200; Of Rare Origin; 212-717-9368; ofrareorigin.com

Coin Reflection earrings in goldplated brass with baroque freshwater pearls; $220; Lizzie Fortunato

Edith lariat in gold-plated brass with freshwater pearls; $275; Lizzie Fortunato; wholesale@lizzie fortunato.com; lizziefortunato.com

Formation necklace (worn as bracelet) in 14k gold–plated sterling silver with freshwater pearls; $355; Mounser; sales@mounser.com; mounser.com

14k yellow gold ring with 10 mm–11 mm South Sea pearl and 0.14 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,240; Baggins

16.8 mm South Sea pearl ring with 0.15 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $12,000; Baggins

18k yellow gold ring with 2.5 mm–3 mm akoya pearls and 0.15 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,950; Baggins; 213-624-2277; bagginspearls.com

GLOW UP Jewelry’s most luminous gem is having a major moment

18k yellow gold pearl necklace with 7 cts. t.w. sapphire beads; $19,375; Sylva & Cie; 213-488-1444; sylvacie.com JCKONLINE.COM

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON KIM Hair: NICOLAS ELDIN/ART DEPARTMENT Makeup: CHARLOTTE DAY/ART DEPARTMENT Stylist: DANIEL EDLEY/WALTER SCHUPFER Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON/ART DEPARTMENT Model: NOEL BERRY/IMG Wetsuit: Roxy

Feminine Waves ring in 18k gold–plated brass with cultured pearl; $156; Joanna Laura Constantine; lauren@megamega projects.com; joanna lauraconstantine.com

OCTOBER 2020

the industry authority

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box 2

TRENDS

Platinum pendant with 10.8 ct. moonstone, 1.36 ct. paraiba-type tourmaline, 0.57 ct. t.w. diamonds, and 0.31 ct. t.w. Paraiba tourmaline; $46,000; Omi Privé; 877-OMIGEMS; omiprive.com

POLITICS

OBAMA: DEMOCRATIC NATIONAL CONVENTION VIA AP; LORD & TAYLOR: JOHN GRESS/BLOOMBERG

Buyers looking for insights on emerging trends in the COVID-19 era got an earful during the JCK Virtual show, held online Aug. 10–14. In a series of video talks hosted by JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky, medallion necklaces, talismans, beaded jewelry with bold and bigger stones, custom designs, and pearls were cited as top sellers for the holidays. “People want jewelry because they know it will last forever,” said longtime JCK contributor Randi Molofsky, cofounder of the brand development agency For Future Reference. “And it will help them commemorate this moment in time.” Even if that means countering our collective gloom with all the bright, “nonnatural colors” appearing on the market, said Marion Fasel, founder and editorial director of The Adventurine. “At first I thought, What the heck?” she said. “Then I thought, I really want that.”

Former first lady Michelle Obama made waves on the opening night of the Democratic National Convention in August not only with her speech but also with her choice of accessory. Wearing a gold chain necklace composed of four letters spelling Vote, by Black-owned Los Angeles jeweler ByChari, Obama sent a powerful message that had jewelry lovers around the country scrambling to place orders. Available in 14k yellow, white, or rose gold, with large letters or small, with diamonds or without, and in three lengths, the delicate piece is the very definition of statement jewelry.

JCKONLINE.COM

DIAMONDS The GIA’s grading lab has issued reports for lab-grown diamonds since 2006. But some feel it’s never truly graded them until now. In August, the institute said it would issue full color and clarity grades for man-made stones for the first time ever. (Previously, the lab included only info on color and clarity categories.) GIA president and CEO Susan Jacques calls the digital-only reports a response to consumer demand. “We want to make sure that consumers are educated,” she says. “As consumers adopt this new category, it’s important that we evolve with them.”

BLACK IS KING: © ANDREW WHITE/PARKWOOD ENTERTAINMENT

CELEBRITIES Beyoncé’s Black Is King visual album—an expertly conceived and gorgeously produced ode to Black heritage—dropped July 31 on Disney+, delivering a number of career-high moments for the indie jewelry- and accessory makers who contributed (and were commissioned to make) special pieces for the project. Metal designer Laurel DeWitt and jewelry designers Dynasty and Soull Ogun of L’Enchanteur, Lorraine West, Ariana Boussard-Reifel, and A-Morir Studio’s Kerin Rose Gold worked with Bey’s stylist, Zerina Akers, to enhance the already jaw-dropping costumes. “When Beyoncé wears my jewelry, it has far more impact for the brand than any other placement,” says Boussard-Reifel. “It’s not just the level of celebrity that she brings. She shows that jewelry’s not just decorative. It’s an emblem of power.”

4 Ring in 14k white gold with lab-grown 1 ct. princess-cut VS2 G diamond and lab-grown melee; $2,685; Overnight Mountings; 888731-1111; overnight mountings.com

RETAIL

Lord & Taylor looks like it’s dead and buried. In August, the 194-year-old chain announced plans to shut all its stores, less than a month after it had filed for Chapter 11, and less than a year after it was purchased by Le Tote (which will also shutter). Bankruptcy papers cited the strain of the pandemic, which forced the temporary closing of its 38 stores. Retail watchers noted that Lord & Taylor had been troubled for some time, like many of its department store brethren. As Helena Foulkes, former CEO of previous owner Hudson’s Bay, put it last year, L&T has “amazing loyalty among the people who shop there. There just aren’t enough of them.”

from the editor

emember the time.

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com OCTOBER 2020

SCIENCE TELLS US that our brains are built to remember negative experiences better than positive ones. That’s because when emotions such as fear kick in, they focus our mental resources on enhancing those memories. From an evolutionary standpoint, it all makes sense. (If you can recall, say, the snake that bit you, you may be able to avoid getting bitten again.) Years from now, however, when we look back on 2020, I suspect most of us will also remember the good: our gratitude for surviving this truth-is-stranger-than-fiction year and our humility over the fact that, despite all the hardships it has wrought, we are better for it. I say that with a confidence I would not have predicted back in March, when the pandemic seemed less a harbinger of a radically different way of life than a troubling pause in our regularly scheduled programming. That we’re still here, rolling with the craziest of punches, may explain why we titled our annual Holiday Survival Guide (page 62) “We Need A Holiday.” Seriously! (We also need the chunky chains, gilded initial rings, and pearl hoops spotlighted in its pages.) As the year’s jewelry MVP, pearls deserve a lot more than a single product page, so we devoted an entire still life “To All The Pearls We’ve Loved Before” (page 78), a collection of

Pearl ID necklace in 18k white gold; $3,990; W.Rosado; 212-243-3234; wrosado.com

of-the-moment baubles expertly curated by JCK jewelry director Randi Molofsky. We also asked contributor Amy Elliott to explore a compelling microtrend: the dawn of the pearl engagement ring. In “Forever Your Pearl” (page 84), she offers a persuasive look at why these notoriously delicate gems are fast becoming trendy center-stone alternatives. If the price of gold keeps going up, we may soon be looking for alternatives to the yellow metal. But for now, we’re pretty sure the fourth quarter will be a celebration of gold in all its heirloom-worthy glory. Check out an assortment of our favorite new styles in “Gilt To Last” (page 56), all selected by our trendspotting managing editor, Melissa Bernardo. For anyone invested in the yellow metal, “How Good Is Your Gold?” (page 60) by news director Rob Bates is a must-read. Responsible sourcing in the gold market is no easy feat. Rob does a great job of teasing out the nuances for those of you eager to ensure your sourcing is beyond reproach. It’s only October, but all I can think about is how I’m going to spend New Year’s Eve (“Bye, 2020, don’t let the door hit you on the way out!”). I wish all of you the best for a prosperous holiday season—and a safe and splendid, if forgettable, start to 2021! JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

Our passion is crafting fine jewelry, our purpose is giving back with love. The Gabriel Love Foundation would like to thank all of our partners and everyone who purchased a “91>19” bracelet for helping us raise $91,000 for Jewelers for Children (JFC). It is with great compassion that we’re announcing a follow-up initiative to continue to support JFC and children in need. The “Stronger Together” campaign will be launched at the beginning of October and is centered around a beautiful circle of life pendant with two intertwined strands representing the power of humanity and strength of togetherness. Let’s work together to create a stronger future for children. Thank You and God Bless.

GABRIELNY.COM/TOGETHER

OCTOBER 2020

the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS

1 2

Smalto earrings in 18k white gold and silver with green enamel, diamonds, and 17.4 cts. t.w. lemon citrine; $4,000; Andreoli; 212-582-2050; andreoliusa.com

18k yellow gold brooch with custom-cut onyx and emerald eyes; $10,200; 18 Carat House; vipulartsinfo@gmail.com; 18carathouse.com

THE COLOR OF MONEY

14k gold vintage-inspired bangle with fancy-shape 0.5 ct. Colombian emerald and 0.27 ct. t.w. fancy-shape diamonds; $7,370; Just Jules; 480-8606211; justjules.com

What JCK magazine’s Victoria Gomelsky is loving this month

5 “JCK Virtual featured a bounty of new jewels in this season’s most au courant color combination: gold paired with accents of green.” —Victoria Gomelsky, JCK editor-in-chief JCKONLINE.COM

PORTRAIT: NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS

18k yellow gold cigar band ring with green tourmaline and 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,650; Marika Desert Gold; 216-759-7569; marikadesertgold.com

Yellow gold ring with invisibly set diamond and malachite; $6,481; Doves by Doron Paloma; 888-663-6837; dovesjewelry.com

AS SEEN IN

FROM THE PUBLISHER

During the JCK Virtual show, I moderated a “Hot Topics” discussion with our editors.

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com OCTOBER 2020

AS I WRITE this, we’ve just concluded the JCK Virtual show, and what a success it was! The mid-August event saw more than 4,500 participants, with 3,400+ attendees and 734 exhibiting companies, who, together, brought the product discovery, expert insight, and networking of the JCK and Luxury shows to attendees’ computers in a way we might not have thought possible at the start of this year. While JCK Virtual wasn’t a substitute for an in-person show, it was definitely something special in its own right, and gave our industry an occasion to connect, communicate, learn, and sell in a year otherwise bereft of those opportunities. Congrats to Sarin Bachmann and the entire JCK Events team on their success! Throughout the week, one surprising theme came up again and again: The COVID-19 pandemic has actually created unforeseen opportunities for the jewelry sector. Between a lack of consumer spending on travel and other disposable income categories, the eternal emotional connection with jewelry, and the indefatigable embrace of consumerism, many in the jewelry industry are reporting that they have had a relatively good year. Indeed, JCK Virtual was filled with anecdotes of success. None of this is to take away from the hardship we’ve all felt during this pandemic

or to make light of so much loss. But it is encouraging to know that the desire for jewelry is resilient, and that our industry can be counted on to come together and lift the tide for all while making customers happy, keeping employees paid, paying taxes, and contributing to our charitable causes. Here’s hoping that 2021 will return to “normal” and we can look back with a sigh of relief that our industry was less affected than others. Speaking of 2021, I’m pleased to announce some big changes in the format and types of content and resources we will produce next year. First off, we are redesigning our online platform to add compelling new year-round content, including JCK News Daily, JCK magazine, JCK Events, and JCK Talks education. If you’ve not done so, be sure to subscribe to the daily newsletter to keep abreast of all our exciting developments. In print, we are reducing our frequency to one spectacular preshow issue, to be distributed to our subscribers in early May and on-site at JCK Las Vegas. While our media adapt with the times, our role as “The Industry Authority” never changes. We are so excited to embrace new platforms and new concepts, all of which we will continue to strive to make best in class! JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

t’s been a year of surprises.

(212) 764-2823 | 36 West 44th Street, Suite 900 New York, NY, 10036 | Key territories available

fmarkfunk@colorjewels.net

Rand & Paseka Rand Rand & & Paseka Paseka

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Proudly Made in the U.S.A. Proudly Made 1951 inSince the U.S.A. Proudly Made 1951 inSince the U.S.A. Since 1951

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 151 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

U.S. ADVERTISING SALES CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

EDITORIAL News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com Senior Editor & Social Media Director EMILI VESILIND / evesilind@gmail.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI Contributing Editors AMY ELLIOTT / aelliott718@gmail.com BRITTANY SIMINITZ / bsiminitz@jckonline.com

FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON

C I R C U L AT I O N

Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHI-HART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG

Director, PubWorX / WENDY EDELSTEIN Subscriptions and Customer Service 800-305-7759 (North America) 515-247-2984 (other regions) PUBWORX Operations Director MICHAEL CANDEMERES

Photography Contributors JOEL STANS, DIEGO UCHITEL, PATRICIA HEAL, JASON KIM, MIKAEL SCHULZ, KENJI TOMA, STEPHEN LEWIS, BALL & ALBANESE, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN, KEN GUTMAKER, NICOLE LaMOTTE, MARK LUND, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, GAVIN O’NEILL, CODY PICKENS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK

Operations Account Manager ADAM BASSANO Premedia Specialist VANESSA COPPOLA Digital Imaging Specialists JAIRO CORLETO THOMAS OLESEN

PUBLISHED FOR REED EXHIBITIONS BY

World’s Largest & Finest Collection Religious Jewelry World’sOf Largest & Finest Collection Religious Jewelry World’sOf Largest & Finest Collection JCK Las Vegas Booth #50006 Of Religious Jewelry JCK Las516-867-1500 Vegas Booth #50006 JCK Las800-229-0006 Vegas Booth #50006 516-867-1500 sales@randpaseka.com 800-229-0006 516-867-1500 www.randpaseka.com sales@randpaseka.com 800-229-0006 www.randpaseka.com sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com

VP, Content LIZ BUFFA

VP, Business Development MATT CHERVIN

Marketing Manager / NATALIE CHOMET Account Director / HEATHER BOHL Art Director / ANDY ROSS Production Manager / NESTOR CERVANTES Client Services Specialist / KATIE KENNEDY One World Trade Center, Floor 21, New York, NY 10007 For content marketing inquiries, please call 212-286-7330 headline-studio.com headline studio is a division of advance local

/ caroline harrison, ceo

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Chief Operating Officer / Reed Exhibitions YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 / yweinrich@reedexpo.com Group Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 / sbachmann@reedexpo.com

I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G

JCK LAS VEGAS & LUXURY

BRAZIL/EUROPE/ MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01 fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com

Portfolio Sales Leader JORDAN TUCHBAND 203-840-5402 jtuchband@reedexpo.com

INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305 cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com ISRAEL RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@ reedjewelrygroup.com THAILAND CHUMPIA (AOR) SAITHAN Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7357 saithan.chum@ reedtradex.co.th CHINA/HONG KONG/ INDONESIA/JAPAN/KOREA/ MALAYSIA/PHILIPPINES/ SINGAPORE/TAIWAN/ VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106 fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedexpo.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN THOMPSON 203-840-5878 lathompson@reedexpo.com Special Events and Conference Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@reedexpo.com Strategic Accounts Manager JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Luxury 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedexpo.com Strategic Accounts Manager ANA CROSBY JCK Las Vegas 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedexpo.com International Sales Director ALEXANDRA WURSTER 203-840-5332 awurster@reedexpo.com Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, Essentials & Technology, Gallery, Bella Italia, Retail Innovation 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedexpo.com Account Executive NINA MANCINI Bridge, Design Center, Design@Luxury 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedexpo.com Account Executive BARBARA MURRAY First Look, Global Gemstones, Gem Pavilion 203-840-5820 bmurray@reedexpo.com

Sales Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Bridal, Diamond Plaza, Lab-Grown, Plumb Club 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com Sales Executive MONALISA DEPINA 203-840-5556 mdepina@reedexpo.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedexpo.com Senior Marketing Manager JCK Las Vegas AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedexpo.com Senior Marketing Manager Luxury MJ MCGRATH 203-840-5928 mmcgrath@reedexpo.com

Your Responsible & Ethical Source for Mill Products

• • • • •

All mill products made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Metals Available in 10k, 14k and 18k yellow, white, pink and green alloys Platinum and silver alloys also available Quick delivery on standard product Enjoy price breaks with large volume orders

MADE IN THE

SINCE 1912

Call 800.759.9997 for pricing and lead times. ext. 446, Steve Campion

www.hooverandstrong.com

♥

info@hooverandstrong.com

♥

800-759-9997

Please see our website for more Beautiful New Collections

833 Market Street, 10th Floor • San Francisco, CA 94103 • Tel: (415) 543-1580 • 800-864-0767 • Fax: (415) 398-3699 www.herco.com • Email: info@herco.com

the industry authority

OCTOBER 2020

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS

I LET’S GET DIGITAL

JCK Virtual 2020 brought Las Vegas to living rooms all over the world BY ROB BATES

JCKONLINE.COM

Triple Threat ring in platinum with 2.01 ct. radiant, 2.01 ct. oval, and 2.01 ct. heartshape diamond; price on request; Rahaminov Diamonds; 213-6229866; rahaminov.com

T WASN’T YOUR typical show. But this isn’t a typical year. After deciding not to hold the JCK Las Vegas show in June, Reed Exhibitions (which owns this publication) debuted JCK Virtual 2020, its first online jewelry trade show, Aug. 11–14. Sister show Luxury kicked off with an invite-only day on Aug. 10. The event featured virtual education sessions, online “booths,” and even Zoom-hosted social events like “Drunk Yoga.” “We wanted to be as true to JCK as we could,” says Sarin Bachmann, group vice president of JCK and Luxury. While many participants inevitably missed the face-to-face aspect, the online show found many jewelers surprisingly upbeat, given all they’ve been through. JCK’s Jewelry Industry Confidence Index (JICI)—part of an extensive survey of jewelers conducted by research firm MRI-Simmons—stood at 66 this year. That’s a significant drop from last year’s JICI of 86, but it also means that two-thirds of jewelers feel optimistic about the future. (The complete JCK 2020 Jewelry Industry COVID-19 Business Impact Report can be ordered at lasvegas.jckonline.com/industrysurvey.) Only 2% of survey respondents said their business would never recover. “In other words, 98% believe in a better tomorrow,” said Reed Exhibitions chief operating officer Yancy Weinrich in a presentation unveiling the results. That hopeful outlook was echoed by De Beers Group CEO Bruce Cleaver, who said his company’s research into diamond sales found that consumers’

NEWS GEMS

tes between Differentia n iamonds! s b&etHwPee tiate HT/CVD D Diffrterhen d e in M D Diamonds! V Ea /C T H P H & d Earth Mine VISTA PRO & VISTA VISTA PRO & VISTA Natural Diamond Segregator

THE SCOOP

Natural Diamond Segregator

Differentiates iff i s between w earth h mi mined d and d potential oiff i iCVD/HPHT diamonds. mo IIt isdthe hand first s Differentiates s between w di earth hds. mined mi dfi compact om device vi that h di is d designed sigds.dIItto o test mounted mou d potential o i d CVD/HPHT diamonds. mo is the hs fi first s yd s of mou ds jjewelry, w y d d loose oos d s ovi s and mounted and stones compact om device that hd allistypes designed sig d to o test mounted mou su s a necklace, d o such as pendant or earring. dbracelet, y s of mou d jjewelry, w i yg. dhloose oos s o s and all types mounted and stones su h ass a necklace, bracelet, pendant d o i g. such or earring.

VISTA PRO

Necklace

Bracelet

Necklace

Bracelet

Pendant

Earrings

Pendant

Earrings

Ring

Loose Stones (From 0.02ct upwards) Loose Stones (From 0.02ct upwards)

VISTA PRO

VISTA VISTA

Ring

nite, nd, Moissa o m ia D es ite, fi ti sa en Id mond, Mois n Dia tifies Iden nes & Colorsto nes to rs lo o C &

MANTIS MANTIS/ Moissanite Diamond Diamond / Moissanite & Simulant Tester & Simulant Tester

Wireless Connection Wireless Connection

BLEU BLEUStone Referential Meter Color Color Stone Referential Meter

Jack Lewis Jewelers’ John Carter and Reed Exhibitions’ Yancy Weinrich on a virtual chat

top needs are “security, stability, and control.” But right behind those is a desire for “positivity and hope.” “There is no more potent symbol of security and stability than a product that has been here for billions of years and will be here for billions more,” Cleaver said in his opening keynote for Luxury. John Carter, owner and CEO of Jack Lewis Jewelers in Bloomington, Ill., said that he’s found consumers wanting unique, meaningful pieces. “It’s almost like they are COVID merit badges,” he said on a webinar. “These are the things to say that we survived 2020 in its entirety, and we’re stronger.… We’re never going to look back and laugh, but we are going to look back and remember.” Robb Report style editor Kareem Rashed agreed that shoppers are willing to spend for items with “inherent value. “Jewelry is something you can have… with you when you’re in lockdown,” Rashed said in a session on industry trends. “It’s so personal. It’s one of the

things that you can justify buying.” While COVID-19 dominated the educational sessions, there were also discussions about big-picture topics, including sustainability and diversity. Dr. Benjamin Chavis, the civil rights activist who founded Diamonds Do Good, said on a webinar that as the American public becomes more diverse, jewelers will have to do the same. Chavis added that his daughter has enrolled at the GIA. “She’s really excited about it,” he said. “There are career paths in this industry, and we have to let people know about that.” The JCK Industry Fund also unveiled a grant dedicated to promoting greater inclusivity in the industry. JCK Las Vegas is scheduled to return to its standard nonvirtual format June 4–7, 2021, at the Venetian Resort & Sands Expo. Bachmann says that some of the features introduced at this year’s virtual event may become permanent parts of the show going forward.

$1,545,723 Wisconsin Jeweler Supply Wisconsin Jeweler Supply

• •

• • • www.gemlogisusa.com www.gemlogisusa.com •

Amount an ultrarare Rolex Daytona JPS reference 6264 in 18k gold fetched at a Sotheby’s online auction in July, setting a new record for a Sotheby’s online watch sale.

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

Q&A

Radiant Glimmer 14k rose gold ring with champagne sapphire; $400

3 Questions for...

MADELINE FRASER IN MID-JULY, Gemist, a 1-year-old startup that lets consumers design their own jewelry and test-drive a prototype, secured an undisclosed investment from diamond giant De Beers Group. Here, Madeline Fraser talks with JCK about why she founded Gemist, why it’s different, and how she plans to go retail. —EMILI VESILIND Why did you introduce Gemist? I experienced a big problem trying to design my own engagement ring. I thought I could design a ring, try it on, and then buy it. When I dove into it, I realized the industry was really fragmented. You had mass- produced brands like your Blue Niles, your big jewelry retailers like Kay Jewelers and Jared. Then you had these mom-and-pop people. Then you had Tiffany. I needed something that was

Petite Luster and Delicate Shimmer 14k white gold rings with sapphires and diamonds; $310–$400

easy to execute but also affordable. I found that no real version of tryon was available. I was super shocked by that. I went around to retail places in Los Angeles, and everything felt expensive. I ended up going downtown to this little shoebox office where I literally drew the ring on a piece of paper and gave the guy cash and left. I was like, “Will I even get a ring?” The ring came out beautifully, and it’s totally me. I love to say that I designed it, and it was affordable by the measure of what I saw e verywhere else. I thought, there is a viable product here, we just have to change the process. What makes Gemist different from its online competitors? We’re demystifying the Four Cs. On other sites, their pitch is that you can

design a ring. I would argue you can’t. Guess what happens when you try to choose a diamond? You’re presented with what amounts to an Excel spreadsheet showing all the diamonds available. You would have to be an expert to pick a stone wisely. You need years and years of education. Try pulling up all the online retailers—if you delete the scribbly logo in the corner, you can’t tell the difference. I did this myself. I spent hours

and weeks trying to do this. We need to make things easier, s impler, and fun. Are you planning for brickand-mortar retailing? I’m a believer in digital-meets-reality, so I built a really experiential retail model to run alongside the digital platform. It will take the digital platform and put it into a physical space. It’s going to be a Build-a-Bear model— colorful, experiential, and bold.

50%

ALL

H T

D S P L AY S ROLEX: COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S

Pavé Gemist huggies in 14k white gold; $320

sales@boxbrokersgroup.com

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

Stacie Orloff has joined F acet Barcelona as chief

COMINGS AND GOINGS Regine Basha has been named CEO of New York City–based charm manufacturer Aaron Basha. She previously served as chief creative officer. She takes over from her father, Aaron, the company’s founder and namesake.

Regine Basha

commercial officer of its commercial team for the U.S., Canada, and the Caribbean. Orloff previously served as vice president of sales for the Americas at Fendi Timepieces and as president of Bell & Ross.

Beirut stack with Allah charm on beaded bracelet, gold bangle with good luck charms, gold bangle with rose quartz hamsa, small open-link charm bracelet, and floating evil eye charm; $1,250–$8,600 each; Aaron Basha; 212-644-1970; aaronbasha.com

De Beers Group has appointed Céline Assimon, former CEO of de Grisogono, CEO of De Beers Jewellers, its retail chain. She succeeds François Delage, who has headed the

brand since 2009.

Bridal jewelry brand Fana added three industry veterans to its team: Shelby Sterrett now heads its Western sales region, Steve Rumanoff has been appointed Northeast sales director, and Eric Sigg will become national sales trainer and inside sales manager.

Gemological Science International has named Alethea Inns, former director

Ashley Brown

Stacie Orloff

Jean Dousset, a great-greatgrandson of Louis Cartier, has launched Oui by Jean Dousset, a digital platform

that sells engagement rings and diamond jewelry.

Frederick Goldman has appointed Judah Zeigler vice president of business-to- business e-commerce. He previously worked at Samsung.

REMEMBERED

Nancy Brewer Nancy Brewer, founder of Nancy B. & Co. and a pioneering woman in the jewelry industry, died Aug. 5 in Los Angeles after an extended illness. She was 78.

Susan Eisen Susan Eisen, president and chief designer at Susan Eisen

in El Paso, Texas, has been elected president of the Texas

Judah Zeigler

Jewelers Association. Jocalio has hired Albee Schimanski as its vice presiShelby Sterrett

OCTOBER 2020

Russian diamond miner lrosa has appointed Igor A Simonov its deputy chief operating officer for health and safety. He previously served as head of occupational health, safety, and environment at JSC Severstal Management.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America has promoted CaSandra Diggs to president of the organization. She was most recently its chief administrative and financial officer.

Fine Jewelry & Watches

of gemology and education for the American Gem Society, as its new chief learning officer.

Alethea Inns

worked for Atencio as a sales associate and was also executive director of marketing and public relations for Stuller.

Fabienne Lupo has ended her tenure as president and CEO of Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie after 15 years with the watch industry group.

dent of business development. Schimanski spent 12 years in senior roles at Chow Tai Fook North America and subsidiary brand Hearts On Fire, where he most recently served as vice president, trade strategy.

Reinstein Ross has brought

on veteran jewelry designer

Ileana Makri as its new

creative director.

Designer John Atencio has hired Ashley Brown to head his wholesale and new b usiness development divisions. She had previously

Roger H. Gesswein Jr. Roger H. Gesswein Jr., chairman and CEO of Paul H. Gesswein & Co., the tool and JCKONLINE.COM

equipment supplier, died of lymphoma July 31. He was 77. Robert “Bob” McIntire, a

three-decade industry veteran who worked at both Finlay Fine Jewelry and Asurion, died from cardiac arrest July 25. He was 52.

SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Nine De Beers sightholders, all clients of the Gemdax brokerage, have committed to working toward making their manufacturing operations carbon-neutral. Tiffany & Co., which last year added information about where its 0.18 ct. and larger

diamonds were mined, is now also including details about where they were cut and set. The Diamond Development Initiative, the Ottawa, Ontario–based group that works on issues affecting artisanal diamond miners, will now become part of Resolve, a Washington, D.C.–based nongovernmental organization.

CLOSING

part of its Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection process.

HONORED William Jones, vice resident of operations at p Little Rock, Ark.–based chain Sissy’s Log Cabin, was recently honored by Arkansas Business as one of 20 young influentials shaping business in the state.

Bermuda turquoise and pavé diamond pendant in 14k gold; $2,295; John Atencio; 800-219-0276; johnatencio.com

Neiman Marcus, which

opened its first New York City outpost—a 188,000-square-foot store in Manhattan’s Hudson Yards shopping complex—in March 2019, plans to close that store permanently as

William Jones

Building relationships that last a lifetime. “Being a Rembrandt retailer was a no brainer for me! We carried the charms at my former employer and this was one of the first accounts I set up when I opened my own store in 2017. The Charm Program is a great way to attract customers and the charms are a gateway for larger sales!” ~ Jamie Parkerson ~ J. Parkerson Jewelers

Silver & Gold Handcrafted in USA & Canada

CALL 800-828-7840 Learn about our Business Building Charm Program & take advantage of holiday season display specials.

the industry authority

OCTOBER 2020

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK KEY FIGURE

Love Locked’s Kerry Lynn on the scent-sational connection between jewelry and wellness products

BY EMILI VESILIND

TEP INTO LOVE Locked, a small boutique in downtown Jersey City, N.J., and you’ll find a trendy mix of wedding and everyday jewelry from designers such as Erica Weiner, Maniamania, and La Kaiser Jewelry. You’ll also find a well-curated selection of modern apothecary and home goods staples, including witchy candles from brands Magic Hour and Homesick, hipster planters and suncatchers, essential oils from Satya + Sage and Juniper Ridge, and bundles of incense and bad juju–clearing sage from the Love Locked house brand. Whether she’s buying a gemstone necklace or a cleaning spray for yoga mats, Love Locked founder and owner Kerry Lynn employs fair-trade practices; she sources from local artists and mainly from brands that use recycled or ethically procured metal and gemstones.

KEREN VERED @FINALLYHOMEJC

Kerry Lynn Love Locked shoplovelocked.com

JCKONLINE.COM

Shop Talk

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

40 A few of the store’s artisan ceramics and home goods

Love Locked’s dazzling in-store crystal display

Lynn’s belief in ethical sourcing was solidified during a stint volunteering in Peru for the nonprofit FINCA Peru, which provides local artisans access to international fair-trade markets. It was there that Lynn realized “when you buy fair trade, every dollar you spend really counts in someone’s life.” How did you start Love Locked? In February 2016, a partner and I opened the store, then moved to the current space I’m in later that year. We started selling gold-fill and sterling silver jewelry, and people started to ask for wedding rings. My partner left the business in 2016—we just had different ideas of what we wanted in the business. I added several brands to the store right after she left, and it grew from there. How did you come up with the unique mix of jewelry, home, and wellness goods? I love working with aromatherapy artists, and I love working with jewelry artists. And I’ve found that they really do complement each other. I’ve had people come in here for essential oils and sage who start trying on engagement rings. It happens a lot! It’s incredible to sell a $10 apothecary item to someone and then turn around and sell them an engagement ring. Also, the store is in a very diverse neighborhood, and it’s diverse economically too. It was always important to me that people could buy something for $3 in the store along with the high-end items. OCTOBER 2020

A gray diamond engagement ring and wedding band set by Fiat Lux

“I’ve had people come in for essential oils and sage who start trying on rings.” —Kerry Lynn

How did you initially get into the jewelry business? When I was 17 and 18 years old, I worked for Nomination, the charm bracelet company. You bought all these little charms and put them together. I pretty much learned the jewelry business from that—how to talk about stones and metals, how to style. Then I was an English teacher for two years. After that, I ended up organizing medical teams for a nonprofit that went into undeveloped regions and did cleft palate surgeries in places like India and Peru. It was definitely a job for a young person. You’re always sick from the travel and hours, and there’s a heavy emotional toll that comes with that kind of work. I started thinking, what’s light and bright? Jewelry!

As a small retailer with a brick-andmortar store, how did you weather the COVID-19 closure? I closed the store, and I was nervous about running a public space in general. A jewelry artist I worked with, Javiera Magaly, died of COVID-19. On March 6, she gave me a hug in my store, and on March 31, she passed away. It was terrible. I did what I could to stay in business. I would drop things off on doorsteps and wait in my car while clients decided on rings and things. I took everything out of my store and made my dining room a Mother’s Day shop. The guys who bought their wedding rings with me come back for push presents, anniversaries. The husbands would call me or be on text

and I’d be like, “Do you like this, or do you like this?” It was a lot of work and a lot of driving around. But the store didn’t fail. Since we’ve been open again— letting four customers in at a time—we’ve seen a surge in wedding and engagement ring sales. It’s incredible—we’re doing quadruple the business we did before the pandemic. And everyone who walks in is like, “Yay, you made it!”

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.

JCKONLINE.COM

FZW 7eeW`UW aX F[_W^Wee 6We[Y` .DUDW 3ODWLQXP )LQH *HPV

::: -<(6&253 &20

Shop Talk

RETAIL THERAPY

MOOD SWING BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: How has the COVID-19 pandemic changed the way you think about and do business in 2020? A: The COVID-19 pandemic has

LAURA FREEDMAN OWNER BROKEN ENGLISH Santa Monica, Calif., and New York City brokenenglish jewelry.com

completely changed the way I think about my business. It’s important to be able to pivot quickly in times like these. We didn’t stop for a second. I pushed through finding ways to generate business. We created a bespoke shopping experience for our clients, where they didn’t necessarily need to come into the store. I’ve always pushed my sales staff to think of themselves as curators of fine jewelry and to take a personal shopping approach. This has been very successful for us. We have all jumped in and pushed each other through this crazy time.

A: I have never worked in a cleaner environment than

what I am working in now! And I like it! The care that we put into having a clean workplace has really showed my customers and employees the attention to detail that I expect, and that has been a good thing. The pandemic has also reinforced lessons about budgeting and paying vendors on time, or early.

JAMIE HOLLIER OWNER BALEFIRE GOODS Arvada, Colo. balefiregoods.com

A: We’ve known that

online and social media sales were an important part of our business since we opened, but we’ve focused on that aspect even more since COVID-19. We’ve started offering video consultations, online art openings, and artist interviews and we have improved our website since March. We’re also rethinking Black Friday and Small Business Saturday to diversify how shoppers engage with our gallery, both in person and online. JOHN BROCKHAUS OWNER BROCKHAUS JEWELRY Norman, Okla. brockhaus jewelry.com

A: We opted to keep everyone on through the whole shutdown, and in the THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY GET UP-TO -THE-MOMENT

JEWELRY NEWS AND INSIGHTS JCKONLINE.COM FACEBOOK.COM/JCKMAGAZINE INSTAGRAM.COM/JCKMAGAZINE

BOB WOOLSEY CHIEF INSPIRATION OFFICER JONES BROS. JEWELERS Peoria, Ill. jonesbros.com

process we all became better at what we do. Our goldsmiths learned Matrix [jewelry design software] and fabrication. Our accountant learned to master the SBA [Small Business Administration] and all loans available. Our director of inventory sat in on close to 100 webinars. Our sales manager and sales team worked at becoming certified in Tissot and other brands that offered training, clienteling through Clientbook. And we met daily to go over what we were doing and learning as a team via Zoom. Coming out of the lockdown, we have gotten in the habit of greeting customers in the parking lot and starting the process outside and walking with them inside. That creates a new level of connection, and it is awesome. DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

F R I DAY, J U N E 4 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; M O N DAY, J U N E 7, 2 0 2 1 | S A N D S E X P O & T H E V E N E T I A N , LV | J C KO N L I N E . C O M / L A S V E G A S

SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

“We’ve been impacted [by COVID-19] like every other industry,” says Langhoff, “but my staff and I have been able to stabilize the business.”

2644½ N. MILWAUKEE AVE. CHICAGO

ADORNMENT + THEORY

Jewelry designer Viviana Langhoff’s 3-year-old store delivers wearable art in an intimate, welcoming environment

BY DANIEL P. SMITH

DORNMENT + THEORY, Viviana Langhoff’s retail shop in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood, exudes the hip, diverse character that resides beyond its sleek glass door. The narrow 750-square-foot space is unapologetically modern with a crisp black-and-white color scheme accented by flashes of gold, undeniably urban with its exposed brick wall and silver tin ceiling, and a thoughtfully curated mash-up of Langhoff’s wide-ranging interests. Born in Puerto Rico and raised in Florida, she ventured north to Chicago to attend the renowned School of the Art Institute and professes a deep interest in jewelry history, especially Middle Eastern history and art. “Glam, Moroccan, art deco” is how Langhoff describes the vibe of the lively retail space she opened in October 2017 following a decade-long run working for others, including a contemporary jewelry gallery.

BLENDING FUNCTION AND FASHION Four glass cases running along the showroom’s eastern wall host the bulk of Adornment + Theory’s jewelry inventory. Priced from $50 to $400, functional art designs from a rotating group of about a dozen emerging artists Langhoff has personally selected— she favors women and, specifically, women of color—include necklaces, earrings, and rings for everyday wear. “It’s product you OCTOBER 2020

JCKONLINE.COM

45 “It’s still surreal. Nothing is how we expected it to be.”

“We pivoted very quickly. We went completely virtual before the lockdown was officially instituted.”

started Adornment + Theory at Home, an Instagram TV series interviewing the store’s designers and makers. “We also hosted a Rihanna dance party and created an online printable gem coloring book,” says Langhoff. “The goal was to supply people with joy and positive associations with our brand.” A series of art deco wall graphics broadcasts the store’s five pillars—hospitality and service, ownership mentality, creative excellence, confident beauty, and team mentality—that Langhoff and her staff of four “bad-ass women” work to live each day. She and her associates are also “highly involved” with the Black Lives Matter movement. “Issues of racism and lack of diversity have been near and dear to my heart for years,” she says. “As a minority woman business owner, I am happy to see the discussions and much-needed work being done in many industries.” While the store reopened its doors on June 4, the march toward normalcy continues. “Remember that there will be bull and bear years, but we need to keep our mindset positive and focused,” Langhoff says of her plan. “Knowing that we need to remain flexible. Continuing to go above and beyond to service our clients and neighbors. Providing them the full Adornment + Theory experience in person or online.”

LYNDA REMUS OF @SWEETBYANDBYPHOTOGRAPHY

—Viviana Langhoff

can’t find just anywhere,” she says, pointing to Laura Wood’s whimsical, kinetic styles as an example of the distinctive pieces Adornment + Theory seeks. An elevated glass case in the rear of the showroom, meanwhile, features Langhoff ’s own vintage-inspired fine jewelry, which relies on intricate metalwork, alternative colorways, and fair-trade gems, and works from a half-dozen other artists, among them Sarah Swell and Sofia Zakia. Prices start at $750 and climb as high as $7,000. “We’re not a traditional fine jewelry store, nor are we an art gallery,” Langhoff says. “We’re a hybrid, and we specialize in representing artists and designer-made jewelry with a story.” She also peppers the showroom with other inventory, such as purses, scarves, and nail polish (a nod to the intricate manicures some of the store’s associates sport).

Langhoff calls her team her “left and right arms.” “We utilized our creativity more than ever,” Langhoff says of the shutdown.

A WARM SENSE OF PLACE When creating Adornment + Theory, Langhoff, a 16year resident of ever-evolving Logan Square, envisioned a retail environment simultaneously unique, beautiful, and accessible. She’s cultivated that vision through approachable price points as well as unconventional events like a nail art night and a pop-up tattoo shop. During quarantine, she JCKONLINE.COM

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

OCTOBER 2020

the industry authority

OCTOBER 2020

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK 1

FLIP A COIN

1/ Pink enamel and diamond Starburst pendant in 18k gold with 14k gold chain; $9,030; Andrea Fohrman; sales@andreafohrman.com; andreafohrman.com

2/ 5-Coin necklace with white diamonds, emerald, white pearls, and Tahitian pearls in 14k gold; $17,500; Marlo Laz; sales@ marlolaz.com; marlolaz.com

Gold medallions with ancient roots are adorned with talismanic signs and symbols

3/ Alchemy Vitality Padlock in 14k yellow gold; $4,290; RetrouvaĂ; meaghan@forfuturereference.com; retrouvai.com

JCKONLINE.COM

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

5 4/ Gold medal with diamonds and Dangling Eye necklace in 14k yellow gold; $2,985; Celine Daoust; 32-23-434-318; celinedaoust.com

5/ Goddess Coin pendant and Animal Kingdom small charm in 18k yellow gold; $8,100; Azlee; hannah@ azleejewelry.com; azleejewelry.com

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

14k rose gold Borealis ring with 1.37 ct. kite amethyst and 0.05 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,122

PLAY OF COLOR On the eve of Yael Designs’ 20th anniversary, we chart Yehouda Saketkhou’s journey from Union Square kiosk to San Francisco giant

RILLIANT PURPLES. PIERCING, almost neon, blues. Searing oranges. When so much of the industry seems to be moving toward monochromatic pieces and diamonds, Yael Designs has doubled down on palette, building heart-stopping pieces around gorgeous gems with colors that practically slap you in the face. “It’s hard to see new ideas in the jewelry business today,” owner and founder Yehouda Saketkhou says. “More than anything, despite what’s happening in the world, that’s what we try to do.”

BY MATT VILLANO

HUMBLE BEGINNINGS

14k white gold Borealis necklace with 2.65 ct. hexagon blue topaz and 0.03 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,183; Yael Designs; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com OCTOBER 2020

Saketkhou’s journey in jewelry began after he arrived in San Francisco from Iran at age 13. He worked for his uncles at a modest jewelry store on the main drag in the heavily touristed Fisherman’s Wharf neighborhood. The store sold hundreds of premade pieces, but Saketkhou took the opportunity to teach himself how to design; when local rap artists came in looking for over-the-top jewels, Saketkhou worked with them to create the pendants of their dreams. As a result of this creativity, his following grew exponentially. In the 1980s, he made pendants for every member of Run-DMC. When he was 18, Saketkhou changed things up, opening a jewelry kiosk at a cooperative in Union Square. His stuff was simple back then—mostly mountings with diamonds. Then he got into the bridal business, designing rings and having them manufactured in Los Angeles. “It was nice just to make something very personal to people,” he remembers. JCKONLINE.COM

The RELIABLE SOURCE for all your CHAIN REQUIREMENTS gold silver platinum palladium steel titanium brass

news 2020

Schofer Germany - THE CHAIN COMPANY GmbH + Co. KG Freiburger Strasse 3 · 75179 Pforzheim · Germany · Tel: +49 (0)7231 - 91 03 - 0 · info@schofer.com · www.schofer.com

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE 18k rose gold bangle with 3.92 ct. white opal, 7.03 ct. fire opal, and 0.38 ct. t.w. diamonds; $8,436

18k yellow gold ring with 1.06 ct. pearshape fire opal, 2.43 ct. cabochon emerald, and 0.18 ct. t.w. diamonds; $9,840

In his mid-20s, Saketkhou took another leap, opening a store with his father and brother. He continued expanding his design skills, conceptualizing certain items that sold for more than $1 million. He recalls having a stable of high-profile clients who would fly out on private planes from Arizona and Texas to meet with him to plan a piece, then fly back to pick up the finished jewelry. Finally, in 2001, he went out on his own again, debuting Yael Designs. The first few years were tough; Saketkhou mostly was buying blank mountings and diamonds, having pieces set by his own jewelers, and selling them wholesale. Then, one fateful morning, his top salesperson was robbed, and he basically had to start again from scratch. “It was a sort of wake-up call for me,” he says. “From that point forward, I swore I’d only do colorful, one-of-a-kind, high-quality pieces that were unlike anything else on the market.”

ESTABLISHING A STYLE These became the tenets of Yael Designs: bold color, imaginative form, and indisputable quality. Saketkhou designs a new collection every year. He also sketches almost every design by hand before digitizing it. Most of the collections incorporate movement. With the Fairytale collection, which has stones that spin in place, the movement is literal; in other collections it’s implied by diamond-studded tracks of gold crossing over the heart of stones from Brazil, India, Italy, and Israel. Perusing the Yael Designs lookbook is like ogling a catalog of fancy and expensive Skittles. The Lava collection OCTOBER 2020

“I swore I’d only do colorful, one-of-a-kind pieces.” —Yehouda Saketkhou

spotlights ochre-red fire opals. Serendipity revolves around free-form rose-cut emeralds. Bloom incorporates lush pink sapphires. The jaw-dropping Pacifica celebrates deep violet-blue tanzanite. And the Toi & Moi collection adds whimsy into the mix, pairing two distinct colors in each ring, pendant, or earring design. All told, Yael Designs has nearly two dozen collections. For each of these, Saketkhou has drawn inspiration from various parts of his life—hanging out as a child in his father’s rug shop in Iran, exploring Paris after he fled the Iranian Revolution, and traveling the world ever since. “Everywhere I have traveled, I have taken photography of different carvings on the wall, different buildings, different windows, and different gates or doors. Always architectural things. Always structural. A lot of that became translated into pendants or maybe the side view of rings, or center stones,” he says. “Yael Designs is more than jewelry; it’s quite simply art,” says Ivan Levi, a jewelry designer and motivational speaker who also serves as national sales manager for the company.

GROWING THE BRAND Today, the white-walled Yael Designs showroom sits on the second floor of a building with art galleries and antique booksellers at the north end of Geary Street, near Union Square. The elite environment is reflected in Saketkhou’s jewelry prices: Many high-end pieces sell for $12,000 and up. This year, as Yael Designs celebrates its 20th anniversary, the company is overcoming a slowdown sparked by the coronavirus pandemic by adding a handful of more accessible

18k rose gold earrings with 10.02 cts. t.w. briolette white opals and 0.41 ct. t.w. diamonds; $6,546

JCKONLINE.COM

18k white gold necklace with 0.85 ct. t.w. round diamonds; $5,391

Earrings with 9.36 cts. t.w. opal drops, 0.39 ct. t.w. round opals, and 1.34 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold; $11,664

collections—a concerted effort to expand the business by appealing to an entirely new base of customers. In recent years, Yael Designs has made a push to break into the lower tiers of the market. The whimsical diamond fashion line Yaelita—developed with emerging San Francisco–based metalsmith Carolyn Simon—features dozens of geometric shapes and other recognizable forms such as butterfly wings and cherry blossoms. Yaelita, which now comprises nearly 200 pieces, evokes the architecture of St. Petersburg, Russia, where Saketkhou attended the World Cup soccer games in 2018. Earlier this year, in the middle of the pandemic, Saketkhou introduced another collection with an approachable price point ($600–$1,200 retail): Borealis, which incorporates stones such as amethyst, garnet, and topaz in 14k gold. “It’s about cuts, shapes, and faceting,” Saketkhou says. “It looks very expensive. It looks very technical. It has the integrity of everything else from Yael with great feel and quality. It’s just at a lower price point.”

WHAT’S NEXT

Ring with 8.13 ct. oval paraiba, 0.18 ct. t.w. color-change garnet, and 1.1 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow and black gold; $15,342

JCKONLINE.COM

After nearly 35 years, Saketkhou’s enthusiasm for the jewelry business remains strong. He continues to draw inspiration from his family, including his d evelopmentally disabled sister, Yael, the brand’s namesake. Saketkhou is also father to two young children, the older of whom was born the day of the grand opening party for the current gallery in 2013. His father, who lives in the Bay Area, still works from time to time, and Saketkhou sees the same future for himself. Always looking for novel approaches to jewelry design, and fearless in trying new things, Saketkhou is the q uintessential innovator. A recent customer analysis revealed that his clientele is composed of independent women who are intellectual and love art and animals. Consequently, his next big collection—under the Yaelita label—will include animal-mask pendants. “I wake up every morning, have my coffee, and say, ‘Thank God I’m going to a job I enjoy,’ ” he says. “I’m fortunate. I’ve never worked for anyone else. I’m good at my job. I bring people joy. And I always get to come up with something new. It doesn’t get much better than that.” OCTOBER 2020

the look

Q&A

Le Cauri Endiamanté necklace in 18k gold with black diamonds

Asks...

CATHERINE SARR

The Paris-born, Chicago-based designer behind Almasika and its “grown-up talisman” jewelry TALISMANIC JEWELRY HAS arguably never been more popular. But Almasika isn’t simply jumping on the proverbial bandwagon. Its signature collection, Le Cauri Endiamanté, is built on a beloved centuries-old symbol: the cowrie shell. “They represent spirituality, prosperity, and even fertility in many cultures around the world. I wanted to pay homage to this ancestral symbol,” says designer Catherine Sarr. “I used to wear a natural cowrie shell pendant when I was a teenager.” Now those pieces are crafted from diamonds (almasi in Swahili) and gold (sika in various West African languages). —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 39 Number of years in the biz: 16 Number of employees you oversee: Me with agencies and consultants. Family and pets: Twin girls, two boys, and my lovely husband. Describe your personal style: Minimalist with interesting details and sometimes bold colors. First piece you ever designed: Diamond cowrie shell that became central to my Le Cauri Endiamanté collection. Piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: My Berceau bracelet. It is a simple band of gold, which undulates around the wrist. We went through multiple iterations to get to a seamless look and feel. OCTOBER 2020

Universum ring in 18k yellow gold with blue sapphire

Berceau bangles in 18k yellow, rose, and white gold

Le Cauri Endiamanté necklace in 18k gold with white diamonds

Best piece of advice you ever received: “Taking a step backward can be the way forward.” Worst piece of advice: “Play safe.” First job ever: Working at my local pharmacy in Château- Thierry, France. Even in the smallest French villages you will see the reassuring green cross. Pharmacies play a significant role in our lives, so I felt very important! How did you get started designing jewelry? I spent several years at the heart of the fine jewelry industry in London promoting gold and diamond jewelry. If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? I would probably be a naturopathic practitioner. I have a passion for natural medicine, and I am this annoying friend who would recommend essential oils, homeopathy, plants, etc., for anything. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Le Cauri Endiamanté necklace (every day), Sagesse medallion, four Berceau bracelets, my wedding band, a gold ring my mother gave me, and a vintage Cartier watch. Five items on your desk right now: A sculpture, my jewelry box, prototype sample of a ring, a notebook, and Frozen 2 sing-along book. Five songs on your playlist: “Elyne Road,” Toumani Diabaté; “Jolie Nana,” Aya Nakamura; “Wonderful,” Burna Boy [pictured ]; “Micaela,” La Sonora Carruseles; anything by Mary J. Blige. Exercise regimen: Jumping rope every day. What did you have for breakfast? Tartine with butter and Bonne Maman strawberry confiture with tea. I miss my French croissants. Guilty pleasure: Warm tarte aux pommes with vanilla ice cream. Drink (daytime/evening): Honey lemon tea. First website you check every day (not your own!): LeMonde.fr How do you unwind? Watch a movie or (sigh) binge-watch reality TV. How have you been spending the past few months? Making the most of family time with my children and husband. Book you’re reading: A Column of Fire by Ken Follett. A must-visit spot in Chicago: The Museum of Contemporary Art [pictured ]. Favorite movie: Rue Cases-Nègres by Euzhan Palcy. Who would play you in your life story? Regina King [pictured ]. Personal motto: “PHD: Passion, Humility, Dedication.” JCKONLINE.COM

JUMP-ROPE: MALERAPASO/ISTOCK/ISTOCK/GETTY; BURNA BOY: JOSEPH OKPAKO/WIREIMAGE/GETTY; DESSERT: MARK WAUGH/ALAMY; MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART: KENDALL MCCAUGHERTY © HALL+MERRICK; KING: TONI ANNE BARSON/WIREIMAGE/GETTY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY JCK NEWS DAILY – OUR BEST STORIES DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX EACH DAY. Breaking news, industry insights and practical advice for the jewelry trade. With all original, not aggregated content, the JCK News Daily newsletter is the industry’s true, business-to-business news source.

JCKONLINE.COM/#SUBSCRIBE

STYLING: DANIEL EDLEY/WALTER SCHUPFER; HAIR: NICOLAS ELDIN/ART DEPT; MAKEUP: CHARLOTTE DAY; MANICURE: ROSEANN SINGLETON/ART DEPT; WETSUIT: ROXY; FORMATION 14K GOLDâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;PLATED STERLING SILVER BRACELET WITH PINK FRESHWATER PEARLS, $225, MOUNSER, SALES@MOUNSER.COM, MOUNSER.COM; REMAINING JEWELRY: SEE COVER LOOK, P. 19

FEATURES

Photograph by Jason Kim

SPOTLIGHT

GILT TO

LAST

2 N O M AT T E R T H E Y E A R ( O R T H E P R I C E O F G O L D ) , T H E S E P I E C E S — S L I N K Y L AY E R I N G C H A I N S , S L E E K A N D S E X Y H O O P S , A N D K A P OW S TAT E M E N T RINGS—WILL NEVER GO OUT OF STYLE

by Melissa Rose Bernardo

1. 14k gold asymmetrical birthstone necklace; $240; Maya Brenner; orders@mayabrenner.com; mayabrenner.com 2. 14k yellow gold negative space circle 16- to 18-inch necklace; $480; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com 3. 2.5 mm Paperclip chain, $525; 4.2 mm Paperclip chain, $815; 6.1 mm Paperclip chain, $1,500, all in 14k yellow gold; Royal Chain Group; 800-6220960; royalchain.com 4. 14k yellow gold bead and dangling bezel diamond necklace; $1,150; ZoĂŤ Chicco; 213-4891226; zoechicco.com

1. Polished diamond hoops in 18k yellow gold; $7,250; Sorellina; meaghan@ forfuturereference.com; sorellinanewyork.com 2. 18k yellow gold Anniversary medium hoops with diamonds; $5,985; Jemma Wynne; info@jemmawynne.com; jemmawynne.com 3. Medium Felix hoops in 14k yellow gold; $825; Sophie Ratner; hannah@sophieratner. com; sophieratner.com 4. Knife edge pavĂŠ hoop earrings in 18k yellow gold with rainbow sapphires and diamonds; $7,450; Harwell Godfrey; meaghan@ forfuturereference.com; harwellgodfrey.com 5. 18k yellow gold hoops with marquise diamonds; $4,200; Brent Neale; meaghan@ forfuturereference.com; brentneale.com

4 3 5

1. Alchemy collection Love signet ring in 14k yellow gold; $3,065; RetrouvaĂ; meaghan@forfuture reference.com; retrouvai.com 2. Buckle ring in 18k hammered and lucid gold with round brilliant diamonds; $5,300; Vendorafa; 305-534-1974; vendorafa.net 3. Ray ring in hand-finished 18k yellow gold with 0.07 ct. t.w. pavĂŠ diamonds; $4,250; Pamela Zamore; 781-9564390; pamelazamore.com 4. Wholeness ring stack with Per Aspera Ad Astra band in 18k gold with 0.9 ct. t.w. diamonds; $7,495; Foundrae; 212-231-9898; foundrae.com 5. 18k yellow gold Honey ring with sapphires and diamonds; $7,800; Deborah Pagani; info@deborahpagani.com; deborahpagani.com

HE JEWELRY INDUSTRY is full of problematic materials, from conflict diamonds to Burmese rubies. But arguably the most problematic material is also the most common: gold. The yellow metal is frequently used in money laundering and has funded uprisings in the Democratic Republic of the Congo and elsewhere. Small-scale miners often use mercury, a hazardous chemical that erodes the health of both the miners and the environment around them. A documentary film shown at last year’s New York City Jewelry Week, River of Gold, demonstrated how gold mining hurts the Amazon rainforest. “Most people have no idea where their gold comes from,” says River of Gold’s codirector Sarah duPont. “Gold is so intertwined in our daily lives, and people have no idea that this is happening. It’s an amazing thing, really.” There are signs the outside world has started paying attention. Last year, The New York Times reported that “tainted gold from Colombia may have ended up in your iPhone.” (Apple is a huge gold consumer.) An episode of the Netflix documentary series Dirty Money was devoted to conflict gold. The problem is, gold is hard to track—harder even than diamonds and colored stones, which aren’t exactly easy. Given that gold is endlessly repurposed and recycled, it’s possible that some of the gold currently in circulation was excavated thousands of years ago. That said, there are steps jewelers can take to improve their gold supply chain. The first should be a no-brainer, says Tiffany Stevens, president and CEO of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee: Follow the law. The Patriot Act, passed in 2001, requires U.S. companies that buy or sell $50,000 or more in precious metals or gems to have an anti–money laundering program in place, with regular testing. Many towns and states also require jewelers to follow certain procedures—such as asking for identification and holding items for a waiting period—when they buy jewelry “off the street.” While these dictates don’t solve the sourcing issues, they will introduce jewelers to the concept

SPOTLIGHT

HOW GOOD IS YOUR GOLD? IMPROVING YOUR GOLD SOURCING ISN’T EASY OR C H E A P. B U T I T ’ S POSSIBLE.

by Rob Bates

of due diligence, which underpins most sourcing schemes. Due-diligence frameworks can often seem daunting and jargon-filled, but the idea behind them is simple: KYC— know your customer, or counterparty. That means dealing only with people you trust, and making sure that you understand their procedures as well as their suppliers. It also means asking questions. The gold due-diligence framework developed by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) recommends that jewelers start by quizzing manufacturers about the refiners they buy from. “[The refiners] are choke points in the gold supply chain and are a key actor in ensuring that you know the provenance of your gold,” says Iris Van der Veken, executive d irector of the Responsible Jewellery Council, which just put out a practical guide to implementing OECD due diligence. Once you identify the refiners, make sure they are undergoing regular audits. (The London Bullion Market Association, or LBMA, is a respected auditor.) Some even recommend jewelers ask for copies of the audits. More than 96% of the world’s gold is processed by refiners that undergo some kind of audit, says Tyler Gillard, head of sector p rojects and legal adviser for the OECD’s Responsible Business Conduct unit. It’s the other 4% that’s the problem. None of these systems is foolproof, of course. Companies can lie. Refiners can lie. Sometimes the auditors lie. It’s still important to make the effort, Gillard says. “Due diligence is a responsibility of conduct, not a responsibility of outcome,” Gillard explains. “You are not providing guarantees. You are making good-faith efforts to implement these standards with a view toward progressive improvement.” Due diligence is even required when dealing with recycled gold, which some have embraced as a cure-all to gold sourcing issues. While the concept is easy to explain to consumers, recycling gold carries the risk of being used as a conduit for money laundering. “Just because you are selling recycled gold doesn’t mean you can relax,” says Brad Brooks-Rubin, managing director of the Enough Project, a nonprofit that focuses on sourcing issues

(L.) HIDESY/ISTOCK/GETTY; RIVER OF GOLD: RON HAVIV/VII PHOTO

In River of Gold, an illegal gold miner in the Amazon stands in a barrel filled with mercury.

in Africa. There have been cases when gold billed as recycled “doesn’t fit that definition,” he says. For example, sometimes the reused metals are mixed with newly mined gold. In July, SwissAid, a Bern-based nonprofit, accused local refiners of selling recycled gold that came from Sudanese armed militias that have been implicated in war crimes and human rights abuses. “While these refineries claim to import only recycled gold from the [United Arab Emirates], the study shows that some of this gold is believed to come from African mines,” the organization concluded. Some companies get audited to ensure that their recycled gold truly fits that description; for instance, Hoover & Strong’s gold recycling procedures are certified by SCS Global Services. Toby Pomeroy, the Portland, Ore.–based designer who is leading the charge to remove mercury from artisanal gold mining, calls recycled gold a “fine way to start” on the responsible sourcing path. But he does not agree with those who hope that buying recycled gold will obviate the need for mining altogether, noting how many livelihoods depend on it. (In any event, that scenario is unlikely given that we are in a period of low jewelry demand but record-high gold prices.) Like many in the responsible sourcing community, Pomeroy—the executive director of Mercury Free Mining and a member of the Alliance for Responsible Mining’s board of directors—is more enthusiastic about special gold products, such as Fairmined, Fairtrade, and Just Gold, which not only guarantee their provenance but also help the desperately poor communities where the metal is mined. These brands also offer a unique selling point for companies that embrace them. Chopard, for example, has committed to using Fairmined and Fairtrade gold. Both brands use gold from artisanal miners that measures up to certain standards and gives back to local communities. Fairmined is offered by the Alliance for Responsible Mining; Fairtrade by the better-known Fairtrade Foundation. Just Gold, sourced from the Democratic Republic of the Congo, is a product of the nongovernmental organization Impact.

Americo is a mercuryfree artisanal gold miner in the Chocó rainforest of Colombia.

The Coodmilla mining cooperative uses panning in its mercury-free gold ore processing; the carved wooden pan traditionally used is called a batea.

RELIABLE RESOURCES

For help with your gold sourcing, check out: • responsiblejewellery.com • gold.org • ethicalmetalsmiths.org • jvclegal.org • oecd.org • mercuryfreemining.org • responsiblemines.org

These products “are directly making a difference within those mining communities,” Pomeroy says. “They’re pretty bulletproof in terms of being unassailable in the integrity of their operations.” The downside: There still isn’t that much special gold product available. It’s also expensive. Special gold often sells for a premium—and with gold trading over $2,000 an ounce at press time, the cost can add up. Mark Hanna, chief marketing officer of Richline Group, says there are no easy, quick, or inexpensive solutions when it comes to responsible gold sourcing. But he believes in this environment, retailers must make the effort. He also notes that the industry has come a long way. After the Dodd-Frank Wall Street Reform and Consumer Protection Act passed in 2010, publicly traded jewelers were unpleasantly surprised to discover that the law contained a provision requiring them to report if any of the gold they used came from conflict-scarred regions of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The affected jewelers were initially taken aback. Then they went to work. Now, a little more than a decade later, the three major publicly traded jewelers— Richline (a division of Berkshire Hathaway), Signet, and Tiffany—all say they know the source of an overwhelming majority of their gold. Hanna admits that large companies like his possess more resources to deal with these issues, compared with smaller companies. But he adds that the big firms also have a greater and more sprawling pool of suppliers to monitor. Still, when Hanna attends meetings of groups such as Ethical Metalsmiths, he’s impressed by all they’ve done to protect their supply chain. “They are small jewelers,” Hanna says. “They are passionate that nothing goes wrong. They don’t always have fancy procedures. But they manage it. Because they care.”

WE NEED A HOLIDAY 1

TO QUOTE THE QUEEN OF POP, PUT YOUR TROUBLES DOWN; IT’S TIME TO CELEBRATE. HERE’S ALL THE JEWELRY YOU’LL NEED. by Randi Molofsky

BEADED NECKLACES

1. 24k gold Luxe collection one-of-a-kind beaded necklace with blue sapphires and diamonds, $25,500, Gurhan, mark@gurhan.com, gurhan. com | 2. Arcadia bead rainbow necklace with gold hinged links on 9k gold Spiga chain, from $1,295, Robinson Pelham, rp@robinsonpelham.com, robinsonpelham.com | 3. Heishi beaded necklace in 18k yellow gold with 0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds, shell, and turquoise, $4,400, Jenna Blake, info@ jennablake.com, jennablake.com | 4. Major Moon pendant in turquoise with fire opal Sunset Bead foundation necklace in 18k yellow gold, $10,200, Harwell Godfrey, meaghan@forfuturereference. com, harwellgodfrey.com | 5. 22k gold and oxidized silver necklace with pink opal beads and diamonds, $6,750, Arman Sarkisyan, info@armansarkisyan.com, armansarkisyan.com

INITIAL JEWELS 1. Signet ring with lapis and diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $2,600, Sorellina, meaghan@forfuturereference.com, sorellinanewyork.com | 2. Australian South Sea pearl ID letter ring with diamonds and pink nano-ceramic finish in 18k white gold, $15,620, W.Rosado, 212-243-3234, wrosado.com | 3. Peacock baroque pearl and diamond initial pendant in 14k yellow gold, $1,199, Rudy Blu, contact@rudyblu.com, rudyblu.com | 4. Diamond bezel Letter Huggy in 14k gold with single white diamond, $385, Alison Lou, sales@alisonlou.com, alisonlou.com | 5. Prive pearl letter necklace in 18k yellow gold, $1,890, Jemma Wynne, info@jemmawynne.com, jemmawynne.com

PROTECTION MOTIFS 4

1. 18k yellow gold Bow & Book necklace with French art nouveau and Edwardian charms, hand-painted enamel charms, and diamonds and yellow and pink sapphires on a 19th-century pocket watch chain, $12,170, Colette, info@colettejewelry.com, colettejewelry. com | 2. 14k and 18k gold pendant with labradorite scarab, green cabochon tourmaline, and baguette-cut and green brilliant-cut diamond, $3,620, Lito, sales@litofinejewelry. com, litofinejewelry.com | 3. 20k yellow gold, enamel, and diamond Hamsa huggie earrings, $6,700, Buddha Mama, info@ buddhamama.com, buddhamama.com | 4. Large Eye of Chrona ring with black and white diamonds and green sapphires in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver with black rhodium plating, $12,600, Vram, info@vramjewelry.com, vramjewelry.com | 5. Evil Eye bracelet with sapphires and diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $18,000, Established, meaghan@forfuturereference.com, establishedjewelry.com

1 3

CHAIN LINKS 1. Hand-hammered 20k gold Serenity open link necklace with diamonds, $35,000, Coomi, 866-867-7272, coomi. com | 2. Love Triple Wrap bracelet in 14k yellow gold, $4,190, RetrouvaĂ, meaghan@forfuturereference. com, retrouvai.com | 3. 18k yellow gold XL Pill link necklace with diamond baguettes, $21,600, Deborah Pagani, info@deborahpagani.com, deborahpagani. com | 4. Free-form chunky bracelet in 18k yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver, $895, Rona Fisher, info@ ronafisher.com, ronafisher.com | 5. Convertible Secret Garden necklace with detachable bracelet in 18k yellow gold with black jade and diamonds, $46,000, Gumuchian, 212-588-7081, gumuchian.com

4 5

PEARL HOOPS 1. White seashell pearls with CZ in rhodium-plated sterling silver, $225, Belle Ă&#x2030;toile, 877-838-6728, belleetoilejewelry.com | 2. Single Link baroque pearl earrings in 14k white gold, $258, Grace Lee, contact@gracelee.com, gracelee.com | 3. Akoya pearl silk earrings with cultured pearls in 18k yellow gold, $1,950, Assael, 212-819-0060, assael.com | 4. Sterling silver hoop earrings with black freshwater pearls and oxidized details, $123, Samuel B., 516-466-1826, samuelb.com | 5. Double row Decades hoop earrings with white freshwater pearls in 18k yellow gold, $3,395, Mastoloni, sales@mastoloni.com, mastoloni.com

USIC FOR RETAIL stores has come a long way since the days of cheesy, easy-listening “elevator music” or staticky FM radio shot through with blaring commercials and DJ patter. In an era when consumers are seeking engaging and interactive in-store experiences, creating a unique aural atmosphere for your showroom is as important as choosing the right lighting fixtures and display cases. “Music is a wonderful social facilitator,” says Danny Turner, global senior vice president of creative programming at Mood Media, an Austin, Texas–based company that provides music programs for retailers. “Music as a soundtrack often will take an environment that’s very harsh and sterile and convert it into something that’s warm and engaging.” As a result, customers often choose to linger. “The more you can please the brain with sensory experiences, that helps make the customer more comfortable and encourages them to spend more time in the store,” says Shane O’Neill, vice president at Toledo, Ohio–based Fruchtman Marketing. Research backs this up: A study commissioned last year by Mood Media found that shoppers spent an average of six minutes longer in stores when all of their senses were engaged, increasing sales by 10%. According to retail consultants, marketing experts, and audiophile jewelers, there are some key tips and tactics to bear in mind as you create and cultivate a background music presence to keep customers in the store and put browsers in the right frame of mind to become buyers.

There are also services that cater to retailers, offering everything from buildyour-own playlist options to curated sonic landscapes, with starting costs similar to those for the streaming services. (Along with Mood Media and PlayNetwork, SoundMachine and Cloud Cover Music are big players in the retail music space.)

SETTING TONE AND TEMPO “What you want to look for is ensuring that the tonality of the music you’re selecting is commensurate with the experience,” Turner says. “If it’s a very highend jeweler with a consultative approach and a personalized, bespoke service, I would select music that’s slightly introspective with a certain sense of refinement.” Note that tempo affects the perception of time. “Slower music tends to make people linger,” Hill says. “This is why music in restaurants is often fast-paced; management wants to turn over tables quickly.” In general, Hill says, slower is better, but there are times when you might want to steal restaurateurs’ hurry-up tactics. “If it’s Christmas season, and if you notice that all of a sudden people are buying lower-priced items and your order value is going down, then you need more purchases to make up the gap. Then, it might make sense to speed up the tempo a bit.” At Twist, which has stores in Portland, Ore., and Seattle, co-owner Paul Schneider says he likes “to up the rhythm a bit and make it a little stronger around Christmas. “I don’t want it to feel like background music,” he adds. “I want it to be integrated into the environment.”

SOUND EFFECTS

REFLECTING YOUR (STORE’S) STYLE

As much as you want your music to be a reflection and an extension of your brand, that doesn’t necessarily mean picking music that you like listening to while cooking dinner or playing sudoku. “I want to create a spa-like feeling,” says Jarilyn Lim, owner of Jarilyn Jewelry in Carmel-by-theJAILHOUSE ROCK H OW T H E R I G H T M U S I C M I X Sea, Calif. “My shop is more than a jewelry shop. Not to be a buzzkill, but before you start jamming, CAN BOOST CUSTOMER It’s like a gallery. That spa music makes [customers] remember: It’s illegal to just play tunes from your L O Y A LT Y — A N D S A L E S feel uplifted and relaxed at the same time.” On the phone via Spotify, Pandora, satellite radio, Apple weekends, Lim says, she’ll switch to more upbeat Music, or any of the other streaming services—even by Martha C. White fare, such as light jazz from artists like Kenny G. if you’re paying for a subscription. You can chance Illustration by Kolchoz “I’m a big music person, so every song strikes a it, but you risk paying a hefty fine if you get caught. chord,” says Andrea Riso, proprietor at Sacramento, “People don’t realize music licensing for busiCalif.–area Talisman Collection Fine Jewelers. “I ness is very different than licensing for consumers,” says Andrea Hill, president and CEO of Chicago-based Hill Management Group. spend a lot of time at home at night and in the morning making playlists.” Riso pairs playlists with seasons, local events (e.g., country music when the rodeo is “You can’t just play your own playlists, and you can’t listen to a consumer-facing in town)—even individual clients. “I’m friends with a lot of our customers, and I pay streaming service.” The reason, Hill explains, is that the subscription you’re paying for is based on attention to the concerts they attend and I make playlists of the music they like,” she the presumption that you’re enjoying that music for your own personal use, and says. “Geographically and culturally speaking, you have to look to your audience.” the fee you pay covers licensing for that use only. Yes, this includes even CDs and digital media files you’ve purchased. NO CUSSIN’—AND NO CHEATIN’ If your store is less than 2,000 square feet, you are allowed to play terrestrial Obviously, explicit language is a big no-no; the services offering retail soundscapes (i.e., AM/FM) radio without needing to jump through any hoops, but experts promise clean lyrics, which a regular streaming service can’t always guarantee. But argue against this. You won’t have any control over the music—jangly earworms there’s another consideration, especially if you cater to the wedding market. and potentially inappropriate lyrics are two pitfalls—and you’ll be subject to fre“I try to play love songs and not play breakup music,” Riso says, “and there’s quent commercials, maybe even for your competitors. a shocking amount of breakup songs and cheating lyrics”—obviously not a great Most of the big streaming services now sell business subscriptions on their way to help your customers kindle those romantic feelings. own or through affiliates. Pandora, for instance, offers its business subscripTurner even suggests jewelers occasionally forgo lyrics entirely. “If there are tion through Mood Media, and in November 2019 Apple collaborated with consultations going on, maybe you want to stay away from vocals, versus playing Redmond, Wash.–based PlayNetwork to create Apple Music for Business. Costs instrumental versions of songs,” he says. “When you’re looking at those really intifor these services generally start in the neighborhood of $25–$30 a month. mate consultations, you don’t want to be combating the music.”

S PART OF a jewelry store’s marketing mix, social media has graduated from a nice-to-have to a need-to-have tool. Platforms such as Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, YouTube, and Pinterest serve as high-powered marketing megaphones, offering jewelry retailers cost-effective, accessible ways to communicate with customers in a thoughtful and genuine manner. “We no longer have to wait for someone else to tell our stories or have a huge media budget to announce a promotion with often inconsistent results,” says Ashley Thiesen, founder and CEO of The Modern Connection, a Charleston, S.C.–based social media and digital marketing firm. Most jewelry stores already have a presence on various social media outlets, but owners have to contend with new platforms—such as the latest marketing sensation, TikTok—as well as innovate ways to leverage comparatively old stalwarts like YouTube to extend their reach. In the hustle to capture social media’s benefits, however, retailers should be wary of signing up for a new profile and only do so after careful consideration. “A strategic approach ensures a memorable, consistent, and relevant presence that effectively generates awareness, differentiates from competition, and sells product effectively,” says Kent Lewis, founder of Anvil Media, an integrated digital marketing agency in Portland, Ore. Before introducing a new social media account to your store’s marketing mix, consider these five key questions.

1. AM I COMMITTED TO DOING THIS WELL? The most effective social media features crisp writing, quality images, and compelling video aligned with the store’s brand. Absent this, a store’s latest social media venture can—and likely will—fall flat. Katie French-White, director of internet marketing at Reno, Nev.–based White Stone Marketing, urges retailers to consider the time and resources they can devote to a vibrant, active social presence that is, at a minimum, on par with local competitors. “If you can’t do this well, then don’t do it at all,” French-White advises.

2. WHAT SOCIAL MEDIA ARE MY TARGET CUSTOMERS USING? Any business should seek to be wherever its target customers are. While top social media platforms tout impressive numbers— Facebook, for instance, boasts some 2.5 billion monthly active users—retailers shouldn’t rush onto every outlet, but rather explore the platforms their core customers use. Keep in mind: Each platform has its own “demographic sweet spot,” Lewis says. For example, Facebook skews toward boomers and the Gen X crowd, while younger consumers favor Instagram and YouTube. In addition, retailers should park their own personal opinions. “You can despise Instagram personally, but your business very well might need to be on there,” Thiesen says. “The most important question to answer is: Where do your

customers spend their time online, and where do they get their inspiration, news, education, and entertainment? That is where your business should be marketing.”

3. WHO WILL OVERSEE CONTENT ON THE NEW SOCIAL CHANNEL? Many small businesses, including jewelers, don’t have the budget to employ a dedicated social media marketer, so social is often handled internally with owners leveraging the strengths and bandwidth of existing employees. While this might lead to individuals playing out of position, it can also produce the most authentic, relevant content, according to Lewis. “Think about the entire organization, not just the person in charge of sales or marketing,” Lewis says. “Customer service should be active on social media, for example. More hands lighten the load.” At the same time, avoid tasking an intern or young relative to start a new account simply because that person is social media savvy (and inexpensive to boot). “There’s a big difference in social media use personally and professionally on behalf of a business,” Thiesen says, adding that a seasoned consultant can bring management up to speed on how to use social media effectively. The bottom line: “It’s imperative that someone competent” is the one to implement a new account, Thiesen says.

4. WILL I BE ABLE TO CREATE QUALITY CONTENT CONSISTENTLY OVER TIME? To capture a return on investment and build a standing in the marketplace, a business must devote consistent, regular attention to each social media platform it utilizes. “Brands that blog three times in a week then don’t post another blog for a few months don’t look as credible,” Lewis says, suggesting retailers source content from designers and manufacturers as well. Jewelry retailers hopping on YouTube, for example, should be committed to creating one to two videos each month, Lewis says. Those creating a Facebook or Pinterest account should be prepared to post two to three times each week, while Instagram demands daily attention. “If you can’t commit to this, you may need to staff up or outsource,” Lewis says. “Taking a long-term view ensures content is more intentional and strategic versus opportunistic and ad hoc.”

SOCIAL NET WORTH FIVE QUESTIONS TO ASK BEFORE C R E AT I N G A N E W S O C I A L M E D I A P RO F I L E FOR YOUR JEWELRY BUSINESS

b y D a n i e l P. S m i t h Illustration by Aldo Crusher

5. WHAT ARE THE GOALS WITH THIS NEW SOCIAL MEDIA PRESENCE? Is your store aiming to build its email list, drive online sales, or increase social media followers? Knowing the primary objective will lead you to one platform over another. Instagram and Pinterest, for instance, can spark sales, while Twitter remains a go-to for sharing news. “Different social media sites yield better results based on specific goals,” Thiesen confirms. With clarity on goals, your store can then shape its approach. Lewis suggests starting with market research before evolving to marketing. “Customers are telling jewelers what they want to see in terms of products and service. All you have to do is listen and be willing to learn and adapt.”

LUXE “Inside-out hoop earrings are still hot, hot, hot. They’re a classic.”

“Stretchy bracelets are very easy. They’re durable, flexible, and versatile. Platini or Fope make them. They are mainly gold but can be gold with diamonds or ceramic, too. You can mix them and create a personalized look.”

“Omega’s James Bond watch has been huge for us.”

BETH KATO

Store manager, bridal buyer, and diamond specialist Continental Diamond Minneapolis

14k gold mounting, milgrain band, and diamond eternity and anniversary bands; $768–$1,674; stuller.com

“Stacking rings are huge right now for wedding bands. Different metals, mixing and matching, is really, really hot. You can change them up based on what you feel like that day. They can also constantly add bands to the story.”

“Colors are making a surge, and rubies, sapphires, and emeralds were successful over the holidays. People are layering the jeweled necklaces in different lengths to create different looks and textures.”

Hoop Sweet 14k Strawberry Gold earrings with 3.5 cts. t.w. baguettecut Forest Green Tsavorite, Bubble Gum Pink Sapphire, Raspberry Rhodolite, Blueberry Sapphire, Grape Amethyst, and Cinnamon Citrine; $4,647; levian.com

LIFE 2

W E A S K E D F I V E R E TA I L E R S T O S H A R E T H E I R F AV O R I T E J E W E L RY O F 2 0 2 0 , W H AT CLIENTS ARE BUYING, AND W H AT T H E Y ’ L L B E S TO C K I N G THE REST OF THE YEAR

b y K r i s t i n Yo u n g

Anniversary band in 14k white gold with 5.98 cts. t.w. round diamonds; $39,655; gabrielny.com

“Since the pandemic, eternity diamond bands have been selling for anniversary celebrations. We sold seven in May, mostly 2 to 6 carats.”

“Fope stretchy bracelets are elegant, comfortable, and easy—and it fits into the all-gold trend. I’m obsessed with them.”

KELLY WADE FRY Owner

Kelly Wade Jewelers San Antonio

“We can hardly keep diamond bangles from Uneek in the store. They’re dainty, they’re not overpowering, and they’re affordable for the masses.”

“We’re really having popularity with exotic stones, and nobody does prettier tourmalines than Erica Courtney.”

Lily Pad double drop earring charms with mint peridot, Brazilian and Mozambique paraiba tourmaline, canary tourmaline, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $24,800, diamond bezel huggies, $3,600; ericacourtney.com

“Oval diamonds have been very trendy this year, and we’re doing well with William Levine.”

“We take Victorian antique brooches and convert them to bracelets and necklaces.”

“Everything is going very dainty. Little necklaces with tiny stones, two or three on the neck.”

Effy 14k yellow gold and diamond necklace; $6,250; effyjewelry.com Effy 14k yellow gold and diamond necklace; $1,895

Effy 14k yellow gold, citrine, and diamond necklace; $875

“Tiny little hoop earrings, paper-clip chains, petite studs, ear climbers, and daggers. They’re so popular, we had been hosting piercing parties before the shutdown.”

3 Cirque petite chubby hoops in 14k yellow gold with Australian crystal opals; $1,465; janetaylor.com

Owner

Petite G Jewelers Indianapolis

DANA FRIEDMAN

“We’re selling everything from hatpins to bugs, Edwardian period and some deco. Converting hatpins to bars is brilliant.”

“Everything from drawstring beads by Lena Skadegard to ceramic and gold stretch bracelets by Roberto Demeglio.”

YOU’RE INVITED TO EXPERIENCE AN UPSCALE BUYING ENVIRONMENT

B Y I N V I T A T I O N O N LY

Wednesday, June 2 – Thursday, June 3, 2021 O P E N TO A L L J C K L A S V E G A S AT T E N D E E S

Friday, June 4 – Monday, June 7, 2021 THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS

“Stacked little necklace chains. Most people want something that they can customize and give them individual style.”

Trixie rings in 18k gold with diamonds and tourmaline, tanzanite, and morganite; $4,125–$9,295; laurenk.com

CYRUS SHENNUM Co-owner

Bell and Bird Austin, Texas

“Manufactured jewelry is dainty and simple, so antique jewelry is the one area where you can be bold. You can’t easily manufacture bold designs [like Victorian-era earrings].” Rose gold baguette diamond octagonal ring; $11,800; karmaelkhalil.com

“People are drawn to our B&B Designs— replicas of jewelry from the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries that have passed through our hands.”

“People want simple engagement rings, not so much pavé or halo. In fact, they say, ‘I don’t want halos, I’ve seen too many of them.’ ”

SHENNUM: NABEEL PERVAIZ

“Colored stone engagement rings. People are more aware about alternative materials. They’re asking for morganites, soft sapphires, and pastels— a softer color palette.”

“As for earrings, only diamond studs and diamond hoops are selling. The latter is pretty pricey, but women want them if they can get them.”

“Plain yellow gold thin bands with a solitaire diamond. I know. It’s very simple. But they’re flying off the shelves. That is the hot ring and mostly what I’m selling. Almost everybody is buying a bigger wedding band or a different band—i.e., not a set. This is a 2020 trend. I haven’t seen that in 17 years that I’ve owned my business.”

MARISA Owner PERRY

1.5-inch hoop earrings with 14.11 cts. t.w. oval-cut diamonds; $66,000; norman silverman.com

Marisa Perry Atelier New York City

“People are going for slim yellow necklaces with tiny little stones that they can layer and personalize. It’s dainty everything these days.”

“Three-stone engagement rings are hot. You can have a variety of center stones like round, emerald, or oval with many different side stones like tapered baguettes, half moon, tapered bullet, trapezoids, or pearshape diamonds with the wider part of the pear touching the center stone.”

Three-stone ring with 5.04 ct. cushion brilliant and 0.87 ct. t.w. trapezoid diamonds in platinum; price on request; rahaminov.com

“People are buying lariat bracelets in yellow gold and with diamonds. If they had wings they’d be flying out the door. They’re only a few hundred dollars, they can be stacked, and they fit any wrist.”

TO ALL THE P E A R LS WEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;VE LOV E D B E FO R E

THESE STRANDS, CUFFS, AND WEAR-WITH-EVERYTHING EARRINGS PUT A MODERN SPIN ON THE CLASSIC GEM by Randi Molofsky Digital art by Alfredo Ceballos

STRANDS 2

1. 18-inch Fringe necklace with silver freshwater pearls in 18k white gold; $8,360; Samira 13; 310652-1313; samira13.com 2. Pearl necklace with diamonds in sterling silver and 24k gold; price on request; Atelier Zobel; 49-75-312-5962; atelierzobel.com 3. Assemblage freshwater pearl necklace in sterling silver; $750; Sophie Buhai; sales@ sophiebuhai.com; sophiebuhai.com 4. Satin-finish 18k yellow gold and baroque pearl necklace; $16,140; Yvel; usaservice@ yvel.com; yvel.com 5. Jahn baroque pearl necklace with gemstone accents in 14k yellow gold; $7,490; Pacharee; info@pacharee.com; pacharee.com

CUFFS

1. Blue Rose Tahitian pearl and diamond cuff in 18k rose gold; price on request; Yoko London; 917-213-8161; yokolondon.com 2. Cuff with pearls in oxidized silver and 24k gold leaf; $2,600; So Young Park Studio; info@soyoungpark studio.com; soyoung parkstudio.com

3. Water buffalo horn cuff with cultured pinkish freshwater pearls, rubies, and diamonds in 18k gold; price on request; Alishan; lydia@ alishanonline.com; alishanonline.com 4. Splash clamshell and South Sea pearl cuff with diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $24,500; Brent Neale; meaghan@ forfuturereference. com; brentneale.com

4 5

5. Montana wrap bracelet with Tahitian pearl and diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $16,000; Vincent Peach; info@ vincentpeach.com; vincentpeach.com

1. Pearl and diamond hoops in 18k oxidized gold; $6,890; Colette; 323-525-1738; colettejewelry.com 2. Medium studded Gumball hoops with akoya pearls and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $7,590; Irene Neuwirth; 310-566-6660; ireneneuwirth.com 3. Brushed 18k yellow gold hoops with pearls; $4,800; Parulina; info@ parulina.com; parulina.com

4. Nova radiating hoop earrings with freshwater pearls in 18k yellow gold; $3,295; Ippolita; sales@ippolita.com; ippolita.com

HOOPS

5. Crescent Ball earrings with pearls, black onyx, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $7,000; Sorellina; meaghan@forfuture reference.com; sorellinanewyork.com

2 1

4 3

SCULPTURAL DROPS

1. Apple & Eve pearl and sapphire earrings in 18k yellow gold; $3,485; Mallary Marks; info@ mallarymarksny.com; mallarymarksny.com

2. South Sea pearl earrings in 18k yellow gold; $2,860; Annette Ferdinandsen; info@ aferdinandsen.com; annetteferdinandsen design.com

3. Tahitian keshi pearl earrings in 18k and 22k yellow gold; $5,640; Petra Class; 415-648-6337; petraclass.net

4. Pearl earrings in 18k goldâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;plated silver; $215; Annie Costello Brown; info@anniecostello brown.com; annie costellobrown.com 5. 14k yellow gold hoops with detachable baroque pearl and diamond charms; $895; Mateo; sales@ mateonewyork.com; mateonewyork.com

F O R E V E R THE LUMINOUS GEM IS POPPING UP IN ENGAGEMENT RINGS. JEWELERS, HEAR US OUT:

Y O U R START TRACKING THIS MICROTREND AS A WAY TO DIVERSIFY YOUR BRIDAL BUSINESS.

P E A R L by Amy Elliott

Sapphire, pearl, and diamond ring in 14k white gold; $2,695; Imperial; customerservice@ imperialpearl.com; imperialpearl.com

Sorrento Marry Me ring with white freshwater pearl and diamonds in 18k white gold; $4,145; Mastoloni; info@ mastoloni.com; mastoloni.com

Victorian pearl cluster ring in 14k gold; $645; Heritage by Ariel Gordon; wholesale@ariel gordonjewelry.com; arielgordon jewelry.com

Baroque pearl coil ring with diamond dot in 14k rose gold; $538; Grace Lee; contact@gracelee. com; gracelee.com

Classic chain ring with mabe freshwater pearl in 18k gold; $1,395; John Hardy; 888-838-3022; johnhardy.com

Gypsy ring with South Sea pearl and pear-shape diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $12,000; Brent Neale; meaghan@ forfuturereference. com; brentneale.com

86 Celeste twin ring with pearl and black and white diamonds in 18k white gold; $4,537; Ananya; info@ananya.com; ananya.com

Emma Stone and Dave McCary; Stone’s Kataoka Pearl Snowflake Ring Supreme, with an 8 mm akoya pearl and 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold ($4,780; kataoka-jewelry.com)

“I was a little shocked when Emma Stone and Michelle Williams picked pearls.”

Demi Globe ring with pearl in 14k gold; $1,280; Grace Lee; contact@ gracelee.com; gracelee.com

—Severine Ferrari, Engagement 101

LANK STARES. WRINKLED noses. And one “Uhhhh…no,” coupled with an expression that seemed to ask, “Are you nuts?” These were the responses JCK received when we asked various pearl dealers and designers if they, like us, had picked up on a budding pearl engagement ring trend led by two top celebrities, Emma Stone and Michelle Williams. Not surprisingly, the idea of placing one of n ature’s most vulnerable gemstones in a ring intended for everyday wear is unpalatable to bridal jewelry pros whose businesses hinge on diamond sales. But knowing that celebrity engagement ring choices often trickle down to the mainstream, pearls could be the next chapter in the millennial and Gen Z customer’s quest for alternative center stones (see also: morganite, Montana sapphires, and salt-and-pepper diamonds). “I was a little shocked at first when Emma and Michelle picked pearls,” says Severine Ferrari, founder and editor-in-chief of Engagement 101. “However,

there is a growing trend of celebrities picking unconventional engagement rings that are only worn for public appearances and special occasions. And everyday women have multifaceted lives and often don’t wear their engagement rings all the time for practical reasons. If this is your lifestyle, the durability of the center stone is not on the top of your list.” The idea of a pearl engagement ring isn’t unprecedented—in fact, a quick search on 1stDibs.com reveals a number of antique versions. In the Anne of Green Gables series, set in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras, the heroine requests a “circlet of pearls” for her engagement ring. Another pearl girl: Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton, who received a black pearl ring from Cartier when she became engaged to Prince Alexis Mdivani of Georgia (they married in 1933). But it’s fair to say that the durability of yesteryear’s pearl engagement rings was less of a concern then because a woman’s lifestyle was less active. Today, diamonds are infinitely more practical because of

EMMA STONE: ALBERT L. ORTEGA/GETTY

Talay South Sea pearl silhouette ring in 18k yellow gold; $2,800; Kavant & Sharart; hello@ kavantandsharart. com; kavantand sharart.com

White South Sea pearl ring in 14k rose gold; $940; Baggins; 213-624-2277; bagginspearls.com

Freshwater pink pearl ring with diamonds in 14k rose gold; $795; Imperial

Pearls for Eternity ring with freshwater seed pearls in 14k gold; $725; Imperial; customerservice@ imperialpearl.com; imperialpearl.com

their resistance to chips and scratches. They can also withstand a splash of perfume or a mist of hairspray. Pearls definitely can’t. So why would a 2020 bride knowingly ignore this? “At the end of the day, a center stone is chosen based on what it means to the couple,” says Anis Boudraa, chief operating officer of Japanese fine jewelry brand Kataoka, which made Emma Stone’s delicate feminine ring. (Stone’s fiancé, Saturday Night Live segment director Dave McCary, purchased it at Catbird in Brooklyn, N.Y.) Boudraa thinks that pearls are appealing to brides because they’re “immaculately timeless and divinely pure, symbolizing beauty, integrity, and abundance.” He has also observed a general uptick in interest in pearl engagement rings among his clients over the past few years. New York City–based designer Ashley Zhang reports that her Giverny ring, which features an akoya center stone rimmed by diamonds, is one of her most popular bridal styles. “The client that

Rainbow Clamshell ring with South Sea pearl and sapphire halo in 18k yellow gold; $7,850; Brent Neale; meaghan@ forfuturereference. com; brentneale.com

chooses a pearl as the center stone is usually the type of girl who doesn’t own much fine jewelry and has more of a minimal and laid-back style,” she says. Los Angeles–based jewelry designer Grace Lee thinks consumers are taken with the idea of pearls being an au naturel product. “A diamond needs to be polished and cut to shine, but pearls are literally beautiful out of the shell,” she says. For the record, the Cultured Pearl Association of America is on board. The organization’s official statement: “Pearls’ heritage as a symbol for love and celebration is legendary—unlike diamonds (a marketer’s creation). Some might ask if a pearl is appropriate for daily wear, but it really depends on the individual. It’s a matter of lifestyle and personal choice.” Take, for example, Jennifer Markas, executive director of the Women’s Jewelry Association, who recently opted for a pearl engagement ring by the designer John Hardy. “I know pearls are different, and that is just my personality,” she says. “They feel fresh, classic, elegant, and they go with everything.”

And having grown up in Southern California, Markas loves that the gems are harvested from the sea. Retailers who are hesitant to indulge requests for pearl engagement rings might be encouraged by Zhang’s approach: “I don’t caution against it,” she says. “I usually recommend also buying a wedding band made with stones that are less susceptible to damage that they can wear every day.” And remember that some couples see the pearl ring as a price-conscious placeholder and are planning an upgrade down the road. “Don’t come back with ‘pearls should not be worn as engagement rings,’ ” says Ferrari. “Find language that is honest about the properties, value, and wearability of the ring they want without raining on their parade. Chances are they might listen. And even if they don’t change their mind, it could be the start of a long-term relationship based on trust and understanding.” The heart wants what it wants, and for a growing number of brides, that means pearls on their ring fingers. Who are we to judge?

MARCH 22-24, 2021 miami beach convention center

| miami beach, fl

Secure your Booth (& New Leads) The JIS March Show is timed perfectly for buyers who are looking to restock after the holiday season as w e l l a s Va l e n t i n e s D a y. B u y e r s a r e n o t j u s t a t t e n d i n g , t h e y a r e a t t e n d i n g w i t h i n t e n t t o p u r c h a s e o n - s i t e and place orders for future deliveries. This is the show to secure new sales leads, reconnect with customers in the new year and generate cash f l o w. J I S M a r c h c o u l d v e r y w e l l b e t h e f i r s t i n d u s t r y e v e n t t o t a k e p l a c e i n 2 0 2 1 w h i c h w i l l a l l o w y o u r company to meet the demand for product and inventory needs of our unique buying market. JIS March is your opportunity to start 2021 with sales and success in Miami Beach!

T O S E C U R E Y O U R B O O T H T O D A Y, C O N TA C T: L U K E M A S S E L L A , S A L E S M A N A G E R LMASSELLA@REEDEXPO.COM | +1-203-840-5838

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

S TAY CONNECTED #JISSHOW

the industry authority

OCTOBER 2020

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault POPPY CULTURE

The design was inspired by “fields of endless poppies fluttering in the wind in the British countryside in June,” says the designer. Eight artisans—including stone cutters, polishers, casters, platers, anodizing technicians, and gem setters—brought the flowers to life.

FLOWER POWER The aluminum blooms incorporate 18k gold vermeil and boast 18k gold posts. Each was hand-painted with jet-black enamel and set with two simulated blue sapphires and an array of lab-grown rubies, which were pavé-set on the petals.

IT’S IN THE CAN THESE EXTR AORDINARY FLOR AL earrings started out as soda cans. Part of designer Anabela Chan’s Blooms collection, they were forged from recycled and refined aluminum drinking cans, then made dazzling with lab-grown and simulated gemstones. The seed idea for the collection “all began at my kitchen table at home in London with a can of Sanpellegrino fizzy lemonade in my hand,” says Chan. “The collection essentially turns trash into timeless treasures.” —EMILI VESILIND JCKONLINE.COM

REDUCE, REUSE… That intense rosy hue was a happy accident. “The challenge with recycling aluminum cans is the impurities in the metal that cause issues with porosity,” Chan says. But by refining the metal through a process of trial and error, she was “able to overcome this and take advantage of a controlled porosity that allowed us to achieve greater color intensity.”

the vault

COLORED STONES

Visionary pendant in 18k yellow gold with black onyx and white onyx, diamonds, tsavorite, blue topaz, sapphires, and amethyst; $7,850

Adventurer pendant in 18k yellow gold with lapis lazuli, malachite, and multicolored sapphires; $7,850

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

UNDER HER SPELL

Lover pendant in 18k yellow gold with pink opal, chrysoprase, and multicolored sapphires; $7,850; Harwell Godfrey; meaghan@ forfuturereference.com; harwellgodfrey.com

HOT STOCK TIP

FOR OBVIOUS REASONS, talismanic jewels, designed to protect the wearer, have taken on new resonance in 2020. Harwell Godfrey designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey has always woven protective symbols into her designs—her new Hexed capsule collection incorporates gemstones that promote healing. Each of the four pendants in the collection pairs two “powerful stones” bordering a pyramid in the center that represents “our temple of self,” Godfrey says. Each pendant also represents a personality type: the visionary, the peacemaker, the adventurer, or the lover. “I thought it would be really interesting to pair stones that, when combined, not only have a powerful energy story,” she says, “but a strong color story, too.” —EMILI VESILIND

RUBY SPARKS When the going gets tough, the tough might want some fantastic new earrings. And these edgy RockStar ruby studs from New York City–based Own Your Story certainly suit the national mood during this election season—they’re bold, pragmatic, patriotic, and just a little spiky! —EV 14k rose gold studs with 0.28 ct. t.w. rubies and friction posts; $550; ownyourstory.us

OCTOBER 2020

Peacemaker pendant in 18k yellow gold with tiger’s-eye, turquoise, and diamonds; $7,850

GEM GOSSIP’S NEW FINE JEWELRY LINE FOR QVC! SEE jckonline.com/category/colored-stones FOR THAT AND MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

the vault

SILVER‌

Large Tile Rivière necklace in black rhodium–plated sterling silver with pink opal, $2,750; Small Tile Rivière necklace in black rhodium–plated sterling silver with turquoise, $1,575; Small Scallop Rivière necklace in black rhodium– plated sterling silver with Ethiopian opals, $1,050

Fishbone earrings in black rhodium– plated sterling silver with pink opal and Ethiopian opals; $1,250

Mezzaluna stud earrings in black rhodium–plated sterling silver with chrysoprase, green onyx, and Ethiopian opals; $875; Nak Armstrong; sales@ nakarmstrong.com; nakarmstrong.com

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

LOVE FOR SCALE

GOLD MANIA IN the fine jewelry industry has a ownside: “It has narrowed the offerings to pieces that are d very diminutive and delicate,” says Austin, Texas–based jewelry designer Nak Armstrong. “I craved designing in larger-scale silhouettes again.” Armstrong’s latest collection, Nakard, showcases of-the-moment stones (think pink opal, black spinel, and chrysoprase) in sterling silver settings plated in deep blue and inky black rhodium. The looks were inspired by Roman mosaics, and many recall the colorful mobiles of artist Alexander Calder. Styles are large in format, but priced for the impulse buyer—a niche in the jewelry market Armstrong aptly calls “underserved.” —EMILI VESILIND

Reptile earrings in blue rhodium–plated sterling silver with blue sapphires; $1,175

HOT STOCK TIP

Rainbow choker in sterling silver with colored CZ; $150; royalchain.com

JCKONLINE.COM

Triple Line earrings in black rhodium– plated sterling silver with black spinel and Ethiopian opals; $1,875

CHROMATIC COLLAR Royal Chain’s new Rainbow collection was inspired by the #rainbowtrail hashtag used on Instagram photos that showed rainbow artwork (mainly created by kids) tacked to house windows during the COVID-19 lockdowns. The sterling silver Rainbow choker features an array of candy-colored cubic zirconia and is the kind of feel-good style shoppers will be eager to snap up this holiday season. —EV

TI SENTO MILANO’S MEDITERRANEAN JEWELS! SEE jckonline.com/category/silver FOR THAT AND MORE.

OCTOBER 2020

MARCH 22-24, 2021 miami beach convention center

| miami beach , fl

Meet the Spring Demand at JIS As one of the first major jewelry buying & selling events for the trade in 2021, JIS March is strategically placed to give jewelry retailers more time to restock after the Holiday and Valentineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day retail seasons as well as plan for Spring inventory needs. JIS March debuts some of the yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best show specials, right when buyers need them. Like all JIS Shows, JIS March features at-show delivery, personalized exhibitor recommendations, matchmaking booths to meet new exhibitors and an impressive selection of products from fine to fashion, silver, gold, diamonds and all of the latest trends.

R E G I S T R AT I O N W I L L B E O P E N S O O N , V I S I T J I S S H O W . C O M

jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com +1 (800) 840-5612

S TAY CONNECTED #JISSHOW

the industry authority

OCTOBER 2020

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME

INSTAGRAM REWARDS LIVE SESSIONS When you begin an Instagram Live session, your stream will bump to the front of your followers’ Stories lineup, and followers will also receive a notification letting them know you’re live. Why is this useful? If you have important news, Live might deliver it to more people in the moment.

HYPE IS A GOOD THING

Never underestimate the power of good lighting.

DAYS OF OUR INSTAGRAM LIVES Intimate, informal, and interactive, the social platform’s livestream feature is a cool new way to connect with consumers

OLENA YAKOBCHUK/SHUTTERSTOCK

BY EMILI VESILIND

ROM FILTERS THAT shoot cartoon hearts onto your face to the mishmash of Stories and the YouTube-like IGTV, Instagram is packed with features. But when it comes to engaging followers in an intimate way, nothing on the platform compares to Instagram Live, a feature that allows users to livestream people and events, and react to follower comments and questions in real time.

Highly interactive and always informal, Instagram Live is “a way for brands to break down that fourth wall and invite people in,” says Erica Martell, a freelance Instagram content creator based in Rhode Island. “Everything is so staged these days, and Instagram Live gives people an opportunity to see a real, live human talking and interacting. It forges connections with consumers and brands, because people are always looking to relate.” Here’s what you need to know to get the most out of Instagram Live.

POSTS ARE PERFECT; LIVE IS NOT Instagram feed posts—and even Stories—tend to be rigorously curated. For brands, that generally means only the slickest content is promoted. But Instagram Live is actually live, so it’s embedded with a visceral, anythinggoes vibe and arguably a little more soul. Plus, there’s no controlling the comments that, when typed in by viewers, scroll up on the screen for all to see!

JCKONLINE.COM

As with every event (live and virtual), solid attendance for any Instagram Live session usually depends on pre-event promotion. “Make an announcement on your feed and several on your Stories leading up to the Live,” says Martell, who also suggests collecting questions from followers for an upcoming session while you’re at it.

THE LIGHTING AND BACKGROUND MATTER Dim lighting and busy backgrounds are distracting on Instagram Live. Martell suggests getting a low-cost ring light (under $50)—the standard lighting device for YouTube stars. Or position your laptop next to a window, so your face is facing the light. “When we have a light source bouncing off the center of our face, we all look so much better,” she explains. “And make sure you have a good Wi-Fi connection, because if you cut out on a Live, you’ll lose people in a hot second.”

YOU CAN (AND SHOULD) F EATURE FRIENDS You can certainly Instagram as an individual, especially if you have brief news or an announcement to make. But the most engaging Instagram Live sessions tend to be split-screen chats between two parties. The host begins the Live on his or her phone, and the guest simply taps a button to join. The starts of these chats, even when produced by marquee brands, “are always fumble-y,” says Martell. And that’s perfectly okay.

Tool Time

‌THE GOODS

You’ll get six to eight hours of continuous use from the Apollo.

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

THE APOLLO If you could strap on a bracelet that was guaranteed to help you improve your focus and cognitive functions—and achieve a deeper state of calm—you’d do it, right? Neuroscientists and University of Pittsburgh professors David Rabin and Greg Siegle claim they’ve made that fantasy a real-life possibility with their invention of the Apollo. The two Ph.D.s worked together at the university’s Program in Cognitive Affective Neuroscience to develop and scientifically prove the Apollo’s technology, which is about as unique as it gets. —EMILI VESILIND What it does: The Apollo doesn’t track biometrics—it works to improve them. The device, which can be worn as a bracelet or as an anklet, delivers combinations of low-frequency, inaudible sound waves (gentle vibrations you can feel, but can’t hear) that activate your “rest and digest” parasympathetic nervous response.

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

DINO-LITE EDGEPLUS AM4917MZT MICROSCOPE The Dino-Lite comes with companion software for Windows or Mac OS, a calibration target, and end caps.

OCTOBER 2020

How it works: The Apollo’s vibrations have been proven in double-blind tests to improve heart rate variability (HRV), which, when high and healthy, helps our bodies recover more easily from stress. With an improved HRV, you focus better, sleep more easily, and stay energized longer.

Best feature: The company, Apollo Neuroscience, has programmed the wearable’s patterns of vibrations to nudge you into various states and moods. In the Apollo’s companion mobile app, you can pick from seven modes—“energy and wakeup,” “meditation and mindfulness,” and “social and open,” among them. Simply choose how you want to feel. ($349; apolloneuro.com)

Raising the bar on color fidelity, frame rate, and lowlight performance, Gesswein’s new Dino-Lite EdgePlus AM4917MZT microscope uses flexible lighting control and automatic magnification reading to give bench pros crystal-clear views into their gems and jewels. The scope’s automatic magnification reading shows up on the screen, erasing the hassle of stopping your work to check magnification before performing a measurement. And with the Dino-Lite, focus stacking is simplified, thanks to its “extend depth of field” feature that can take several pictures at different levels of focus, then stack them into one clear, consumer-ready image. ($1,199; gesswein.com) —EV

HOW TO GUARD AGAINST DIGITAL FRAUD! SEE jckonline.com/category/equipment FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE Hanadama Pearls 1248 Bel Air Road Los Angeles, CA 90077 Tel: 310-440-2159 Fax: 310-476-2756 Email: info@hanadama-cfp.com Website: hanadama-cfp.com

Arch Crown Inc. 460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com

l IIn the h pearll world, ld the h cream “Hanadama”: Literally, spherical flower. of the crop! Herein lies 57 years of tradition. We exclusively inventory large size and top quality. Hanadama Pearls, your high-end South Sea pearl specialist.

Preprinted Tags & Labels for Holiday/Seasonal Promotions! Turn browsers into buyers with preprinted tags and labels for identifying jewelry, new items, specials, clearances, and seasonal promotions. Ask about our assortment special—100 styles to choose from!

Royal Chain Group

Herco

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com

833 Market St., 10th Floor San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-543-1580/800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Email: info@herco.com Website: herco.com

Royal Chain is your premium source for gold, chains, and turnkey fashion. Discover our new Roaring 20s collection, featuring art deco must-haves and flapper-inspired tassels. With inventory on thousands of SKUs, there’s something for everyone.

Herco offers a wide variety of 14k and 18k yellow, white, and pink gold jewelry. We also carry many items in 22k and 24k gold, platinum, silver, titanium, palladium, and stainless steel.

RDI Diamonds 2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 844-742-6591 om Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Rare & Forever, exclusively graded by the technology of De Beers Group Industry Services. Discover the diamond line that promises accuracy, consistency, and uncompromised integrity with each and every diamond. Visit rdidiamonds.com/rare-and-forever to learn more!

JCKONLINE.COM

Cirari by Color Jewels 36 W. 44th St., Suite 900 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488 Email: info@cirari.com Website: cirari.com Cirari’s Ethiopian opal ring is set in 14k gold and features a 2.17 ct. opal with 3.8 cts. t.w. diamonds and 0.8 ct. t.w. emeralds (Style TW1108R). MSRP: $1,081. The 14k gold earrings feature 8 cts. t.w. opals, 12.8 cts. t.w. diamonds and 2.88 cts. t.w. emeralds (Style TW1108E). MSRP: $1,931

OCTOBER 2020

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Le Vian® Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Sparkling with Vanilla Diamonds® and set in Vanilla Gold®, this pendant shines as part of Le Vian’s new Symbols of Protection collection. Drawing inspiration from angels and infinite love, this piece inspires hope and togetherness.

Gabriel & Co 545 W. 45th St., Third Floor Flo New York, NY 10036 Phone: 212-519-1400 Email: lverona@gabrielny.c lverona@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Take a look at our men’s wedding bands—The Perfect Match® to our engagement rings and anniversary rings. (Styles ER14460R4T44JJ, WB14460R4T44JJ, MBM0132-60T4JJJ)

Jewelers Mutual Group

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc.

24 Jewelers Park Drive Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-336-5642, ext. 2118 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com/zing

631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com

The Zing™ platform is your digital destination for core Jewelers Mutual® products. With free access to anyone in the industry, it also includes a Diamond Marketplace powered by IDEX and Jewelry Appraisal Solution leveraging Gemworld.

Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

Hoover & Strong

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc.

10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@www.hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com

10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com

We’ve added larger sizes to our P61 series! You can now order the P61, a 6-prong round low peg setting, in 3 ct. (9.50 mm) and 4 ct. (10.25 mm) sizes. Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Metals.

R & P has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.

OCTOBER 2020

JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE Sylvie Collection 5200 McDermott Road, Suite 200 Plano, TX 75024 Tel: 800-992-3426 Email: info@sylviecollection.com Website: sylviecollection.com

Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

Modern vintage Frederique engagement ring with 1.5 ct. oval center and diamond-filled marquise shapes with milgrain beading on both sides, totaling 0.08 cts. t.w. diamonds (Style S1925-OV). MSRP in 14k white gold: $1,170

We created 302® Fine Jewelry to help ty. These on-trend women express their individuality. styles are the mementos women wear to signify who nd what they’ve done. they are, where they’re going, and Learn more at stuller.com/302finejewelry.

Lika Behar Collection

RDI Diamonds

80 Triangle Blvd. Carlstadt, NJ 07072 Tel: 201-933-7200, ext. 1 Fax: 201-933-2700 Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Website: likabehar.com

2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 844-742-6591 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com

Lika Behar creates unique and intimate works of wearable art inspired by ancient civilizations and the Mediterranean. Lika works with 24k and 22k gold, oxidized sterling silver, diamonds, and beautiful gemstones.

Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again. You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100% Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.

Midas Chain 151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com A truly universal piece that will elevate any look, Midas Chain’s oversized wire circle necklace will become your new staple. Crafted in 14k yellow gold, the pendant sits on an adjustable chain and secures with a lobster lock. MSRP: $765

JCKONLINE.COM

Jye’s International Inc. 1633 Bayshore Highway, Suite 136 Burlingame CA 94010 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com 18k white and 18k petal-shaped gold ring with 1.12 cts. t.w. round diamonds. MSRP: $3,040

OCTOBER 2020

CLASSIFIEDS

SERVICES TO TRADE

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

TRADE SUPPLIES

JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES

INVISIBLE EXPERTS!

The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

WATCHES & WATCH WORK

INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR • SIZING • REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES • LASER WELDING

We Have The Answer to Your Problems! www.invisibleexperts.com SIGNATURE JEWELRY INC.

1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026

Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com

617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014

ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices. Star Findings PO Box 6167, West Orange, NJ 07052 212-941-7655 ernie@starfindings.com www.starfindings.com

SCHOOLS & EDUCATION JCK CLASSIFIEDS ARE ONLINE

CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING 3D computer design 3D wax printing ● Precious metal casting ●

●

Stone setting and ﬁnishing Diamond supply ● Laser engraving & repair ●

●

Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com

OCTOBER 2020

Call your JCK Sales Representative or visit JCKonline.com/classifieds

JEWELRY CLASSES

• Wax Modeling • Casting Mold Making • Bead Pearl Stringing • Diamond Setting • Rendering/Design • Jewelry Repair Long and Short Term Courses EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. 32 East 31 Street (Park & Madison) New York, NY 10016 Call (212) 686-1944 www.studiojewelersltd.com

STUDIO JEWELERS, LTD

JCKONLINE.COM

ADVERTISING

INDEX Alrosa USA pg. 15, 46 Website: alrosa.ru Email: FoersterR@usa.alrosa.ru Phone: 212-921-4300 Box Brokers Group pg. 35 Website: boxbrokersgroup.com Email: sales@boxbrokersgroup.com Toll-Free: 800-809-3868 Color Jewels / Cirari pg. 27 Website: cirari.com Email: info@cirari.com Phone: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488 Gabriel & Co. pg. 23 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 HANADAMA Pearls pg. 81 Website: hanadama-cfp.com Email: info@hanadama-cfp.com Phone: 310-440-2159 Toll-free: 800-732-7500 Fax: 310-476-2756 Herco pg. 32 Website: herco.com Email: info@herco.com Toll-Free: 800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Hoover & Strong pg. 31 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997 Imperial pg. 54 Website: imperialpearl.com JCK Events pg. 10-11, 12-13, 43, 75 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626

JCKONLINE.COM

Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 4-5 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 88, 92 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 34 Website: gemlogis.com Email: enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333 Jyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International pg. 41 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880 Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Lika Behar Collection pg. 29 Website: likabehar.com Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Phone: 201-933-7200 Midas pg. 6-7 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 38 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327

Rand & Paseka pg. 28 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 8-9, Back Cover Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rembrandt Charms pg. 37 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811 Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Schofer pg. 49 Website: schofer.com Email: info@schofer.com Phone: +49 (0) 7231-91030 Stuller Inc. pg. 25 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Sylvie Collection pg. 17 Website: sylviecollection.com Email: cassie@spectrumdiamonds.com Phone: 800-992-3426 Fax: 214-472-9990 Umicore pg. 30 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060

Copyright ÂŠ2020 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 151 No. 4 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 4 times a year in March, May, June, and September for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

OCTOBER 2020

100

THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

WILD CHILD Y VES SAINT LAURENT once called supermodel Marisa Berenson “the girl of the ’70s.” Berenson, who was discovered by legendary fashion editor Diana Vreeland, was also the granddaughter of influential couturiere Elsa Schiaparelli. And it was Schiaparelli who gave renowned Tiffany & Co. designer Jean Schlumberger his first break in fashion. Schlumberger started out in the fashion industry making buttons for Schiaparelli, before designing her costume jewelry collections in the 1930s. The dots of these associations connect sublimely in this image: Berenson in front of the lens for Vogue, then edited by Vreeland, wearing safari-themed Tiffany & Co. bracelets. It’s unknown whether Schlumberger himself designed these bracelets, but he certainly created a spectacular gilded menagerie during his tenure at Tiffany. Vreeland once wrote that he “appreciated the miracle of jewels,” adding, “For him, they are the ways and means to the realization of his dreams.” —EMILI VESILIND

JCKONLINE.COM

BERT STERN/CONDÉ NAST/GETTY

Model Marisa Berenson makes the most of the ’70s yellow gold trend in larger-than-life animal-themed Tiffany bracelets