JCK 2018 November/December issue

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

EXTENDED FORECAST

THE HUES, NEWS, A N D J E W E L S T H AT WILL REIGN IN 2019

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

PICK A WINNER

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INSIDE: THE COMPLETE JEWELERS’ C H O I C E AWA R D S VOTING GUIDE

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at the Jewelry Industry’s Winter Oasis J C K T U C S O N C O M E S AT A N E S S E N T I A L T I M E O F Y E A R F O R B U Y E R S T O S T O C K U P A F T E R T H E H O L I D AY S . T H E B A C K D R O P O F T H E T U C S O N D E S E R T, C O M B I N E D W I T H A N E C L E C T I C M I X O F V E N D O R S A N D I N S P I R I N G , R E L A X I N G E V E N T S M A K E I T T H E P E R F E C T B U Y I N G T R I P F O R A L L W H O AT T E N D . J O I N U S AT T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y ’ S W I N T E R O A S I S O N F E B R U A R Y 6 – 9 , 2 0 1 9 AT T H E J W M A R R I O T T T U C S O N S TA R R PA S S R E S O R T & S PA T O R E C H A R G E A N D R E S T O C K .

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F R O M LO O S E G E M S TO N E S , M O U N T I N G S , A N D T E C H N O LO G Y TO F I N E F I N I S H E D J E W E L RY A N D O N E - O F -A- K I N D C O L L E C T I O N S , J C K T U C S O N H AS I T A L L . B E LOW I S A S N E A K P E E K O F S O M E O F T H E N E W A N D R E T U R N I N G D E S I G N E R S T H AT A R E # J C K T U C S O N B O U N D !

Making their JCK Tucson Debut

SARAH GRAHAM

STEVEN ANTON R E H AG E

BROOKE GREGSON

SUNEERA FINE JEWELRY

JCK Tucson Veterans

FORGE & FOUNDRY JEWELS

ALEX SEPKUS

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J O H N AT E N C I O

...and many more!

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ADEL CHEFRIDI

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Events that Inspire

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Morning Hikes

Fireside Chats

Enjoy a be au t i fu l Tu c s on landscap e an d s t ar t you r days with a Sou th we s t H i k i n g Tou r of th e S on or a D e s e r t .

J oi n o u r d a i l y F i r e si d e Chat conferences to hear p e r sp e c t i v e s f r o m p r o m i n e n t v o i c e s i n t h e i n d u st r y.

Gems After Dark Industry Celebration The industry unites for an evening filled with games, networking, cocktails and hors d’oeuvres.

Tequila Toasts Jo in us fo r the p e r fe ct e nd to a succe ssful d ay as w e ce le b r ate w ith o ld fr ie nd s and ne w fr ie nd s – “w e ar e all r e late d .”

In partnership with Gen-Next Jewelers, WJA, and AGS

Learn More: jckonline.com/tucson

Ta r g e t i n g m i l l e n n i a l s , w e a r e h e l p i n g T H E J C K I N D U S T R Y F U N D W A S E S TA B L I S H E D I N 1 9 9 7 A N D

balance the narrative surrounding diamonds

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to include the positive impact the diamond

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industry has on communities where they do business. Our own founding mission is to

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CONTENTS

6

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

60

MELLOW YELLOW

From must-have hoops to wear-with-everything chains, this season’s gold jewels will give you that warm-all-over glow.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DIEGO UCHITEL

FEATURES 68

GOLDEN CYCLE Is the falling price of gold a crisis, an opportunity, or a draw?

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

72

VIDEO PLAYERS How to establish your store’s presence on YouTube. Plus: mustsee jewelry ­YouTube channels.

BY EMILI VESILIND

76

Buying and selling pre-owned jewelry could complement your contemporary sales—as long as you know what you’re doing.

BY MARTHA C. WHITE

72 80

85

68

78

BIG MISTAKE. BIG. HUGE! Common hiring missteps jewelry retailers would be wise to avoid.

BY DANIEL P. SMITH

80

9 HOT TOPICS FOR 2019 We looked into our (rock) crystal ball to predict next year’s biggest gems and trends.

SPECIAL REPORT: COLORED STONES 85

LIVING COLOR Get ready for gem week with our Tucson shopping guide and our picks for the top rocks (two words: Ethiopian emeralds).

MODEL: PHOTOGRAPH BY DIEGO UCHITEL; BOOTS: DOLCE & GABBANA; DRESS: RAT & BOA/RATANDBOA.COM; NECKLACE: HONEYCOMB COLLECTION NECKLACE WITH PENDANT IN 18K GOLD WITH DIAMONDS, $63,650 AS SHOWN, LALAOUNIS, 212-439-9400, LALAOUNIS.COM

SECONDHAND NEWS

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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CONTENTS

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JCKONLINE.COM

12 DEPARTMENTS 12

JEWEL BOX

5 things rocking the industry

14 16 18

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER 24 JCK INSIDER 26 JCKONLINE 28 SOCIAL DIARY 31 NEWS GEMS

43 THE CALENDAR

Industry shows, Nov. 20–Jan. 14. 2019

45 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER

Ivka Adam of Iconery 48 RETAIL THERAPY

What’s your advice for creating a high-performing sales team?

49 CAUSES TO CELEBRATE 50 STORE WE ADORE

Jhanna Fine Jewelry in Millburn, N.J.

50

53

53 THE LOOK 54 RED CARPET 55 DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Polly Wales

It’s not too early to start packing for Vicenza!

127 THE VAULT 128 DIAMONDS 129 SILVER 131 SHOW BIZ 133 TOOL TIME

Tech to thwart home invasion robberies. Plus: KanbanFlow and more.

140 THE WAY WE WORE

Gina Lollobrigida’s longtime love affair with Bulgari

131

STORE: BALL & ALBANESE; RINGS: TIFFANY & CO.

We’ve got your front-row ticket to New York Fashion Week.

40 GEM PRICING REPORT

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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Cover Look

10

JCKONLINE.COM

Earrings in 18k yellow and white gold with 0.96 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,100; Herco; 415543-1580; herco.com

14k gold and 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds ring; $1,225; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com

First Lady 14k yellow gold link bracelet; $3,700; Royal Chain; 800-6220960; royalchain.com

GOLDEN HIGH A collection of sleek and chic heavy metal pieces for your most polished customers. Plus: how retailers are riding the gold-price roller coaster.

14k yellow gold Popcorn single station cuff with diamonds; $1,995; Phillip Gavriel

Iconica rose gold and diamond bangle; $38,800; Pomellato; 800-254-6020; pomellato.com

14k gold Popcorn two-tone bypass bangle; $1,395; Phillip Gavriel; 800-622-0960; royalchain.com

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY DIEGO UCHITEL Hair: MOIZ ALLADINA FOR R+CO/WALL GROUP Makeup: CHARLOTTE DAY FOR GLOSSIER/ART DEPARTMENT Stylist: SANDY ARMENI Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON FOR EMILIE HEATHE/ART DEPARTMENT Model: ANABELA BELIKAVA/ONE MANAGEMENT BOOTS: DOLCE & GABBANA NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

the industry authority

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box 1

A thali (marriage necklace) from India, late 19th century

2

“Jewelry: The Body Transformed,” which opened Nov. 12 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, is ­designed to explore how ­jewelry acts upon and activates the body. The dynamic show, which runs through Feb. 24, will investigate the power and purpose of jewelry through approximately 230 objects— culled almost exclusively from the Met’s existing collection.

Expect to see headdresses, ear ornaments, brooches, belts, necklaces, and rings made between 2600 B.C. and the present day, alongside sculptures, paintings, prints, and photographs. Galleries will be organized thematically, delving into topics including jewelry’s link to immortality, the ways it symbolizes status and rank, and how jewelry has engendered desire through the ages.

AWARDS Ellie Kemper was Unbreakable in Lorraine Schwartz coral, amethyst, and diamond drops.

After their Met Ball heist earlier this year, Sandra Bullock, Cate Blanchett, and the gem-filching gang from Ocean’s 8 seem to have stealthily resurfaced at the Emmy Awards on Sept. 17, leaving a trail of naked necks and unadorned wrists in their wake. Bare City, er, Broad City stars Abbi Jacobson and Ilana Glazer wore plunging pastel gowns that demanded abovethe-waist bling; gorgeous GLOW nominee Betty

Gilpin was earring-less and necklace-less; and black-ish’s Tracee Ellis Ross—well, perhaps most of her jewelry was swallowed by her voluminous Valentino gown. Apparently anyone wearing Lorraine Schwartz was accompanied by a guard, since their statement jewels—including Samira Wiley’s shoulder-duster platinum and diamond mesh earrings and Heidi Klum’s pink and white diamond bib necklace—arrived unharmed.

KEMPER: JEFF KRAVITZ/FILMMAGIC; NECKLACE: COURTESY OF THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

EXHIBITIONS

JCKONLINE.COM

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13

4

Tiffany True features a squarecut center stone and the letter T (as in you know what) worked into the detailing.

BRANDS

Tiffany & Co. CEO Alessandro Bogliolo has promised more “newness”—and now he’s starting to deliver. Recently, the brand, under the auspices of chief artistic officer Reed Krakoff, introduced the Tiffany True engagement ring.

The company is also planning a two-year $100 million makeover of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue and 57th Street store in New York City, which Bogliolo told analysts will result in the “most amazing luxury flagship in the world.” Message received: The new Tiffany doesn’t stand still—or go lightly.

3

RETAILERS

HENRI BENDEL: BRIAN JANNSEN/ALAMY; RINGS: TIFFANY & CO.

Two legendary retailers are calling it a day. In San Francisco, Gump’s, an iconic local department store that opened in the wake of California’s Gold Rush, filed for Chapter 11 protection in August. While execs still hope someone may buy the store—known for its exotic offerings, including jade and freshwater pearls— its site was trumpeting a “going out of business” sale at press time. On the other coast, New York City’s Henri Bendel was revered as an ahead-of-thecurve trendsetter that once employed Andy Warhol in its art department.

But in September, owner L Brands declared it was shutting its 23 Bendel stores, including the Fifth Avenue flagship. According to The Wall Street Journal, one wistful shopper told her son: “You don’t understand what this store used to be.”

The MVMT Boulevard Santa Monica watch ($115) and barbed cuffs ($45 each)

5

WATCHES Kramer LaPlante, the 26-year-old cofounder of millennial-focused watch brand MVMT, once told The New York Times: “The big watch conglomerates are struggling…with millennials.” At least one conglomerate has figured out what to do with MVMT: Buy it. In September, Movado Group paid $100 million for MVMT, whose watches start

at $95, and may pony up another $100 million depending on performance. Not bad for a business originally launched on Indiegogo (where it set a site record by raising $290,000). LaPlante and the brand’s cofounder, 27-year-old Jake Kassan, will continue to run the company, which now also offers sunglasses and other accessories.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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H

from the editor

ere’s a prediction.

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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BY THE TIME you read this, I will have just started my maternity leave. That’s right—I’m writing this letter in mid-October, as we prepare to go to press, and I’m due to have my first child (a boy!) on the Saturday of Thanksgiving weekend. (Here’s hoping my little turkey comes out fully baked.)

In light of that news, I know 2019 will be quite a year for me. Though I think it’s safe to say it will be quite a year for all of us. The pace of technological and social change is only quickening. Every time I envision the future, I imagine the scene from Steven Spielberg’s 2002 film Minority Report, in which Tom Cruise is bombarded by a series of personalized ­augmented-reality ads that materialize from the ether.

While we’re not quite there yet, a host of changes are coming down the pike in the new year. To get a head start on them, read “9 Hot Topics for 2019” on page 80, a collection of projections by JCK ’s editors on everything from jewelry’s blockchain-enabled future to the return of that ’80s staple, the hoop earring, now featuring a slew of modern twists.

You’ll see a few variations on the hoop in “Mellow Yellow” (page 60), starring our lovely cover model outfitted in the season’s newest

Venus cuff in 18k yellow gold; $10,000; Saint Ann; sales@ saintannjewelry. com; saintann jewelry.com

gold baubles. We continue to explore the prospects for gold jewelry in “Golden Cycle” (page 68), contributor Kristin Young’s analysis of the gold price and how its ups and current down are affecting the trade.

In “Video Players” (page 72), senior editor Emili Vesilind tackles the ins and outs of grabbing eyeballs on YouTube. The secret to success on the mega-social channel isn’t pristine cinematography, she says. It all boils down to “useful, shareable, and/or hyperlocal content.”

Speaking of useful, don’t miss “Big ­Mistake.

Big. Huge!” (page 78) by contributor Danny Smith, an overview of the hiring missteps you may inadvertently be making, and “Secondhand News” (page 76), contributor Martha C. White’s expert guide to adding a pre-owned jewelry and watch ­category to your store.

We round out the final issue of 2018 with our first annual colored stone section on page 85. Anyone bound for the Tucson gem shows in February (including the sixth annual edition of JCK Tucson) would be wise to check out its tips and tricks for shopping the shows, not to mention our color-related prophecies for 2019. Hint: I expect to see plenty of shades of blue, not only in my future, but also in all of yours!

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

14

JCKONLINE.COM

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16

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS

1

3

Dancing in the Rain earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $3,115; Nanis Italian Jewels; america@ nanis.it; nanis.it

THE BOLD TYPE

Diana ring in satin-finish 18k yellow gold; $5,000; Wendy Brandes; 917-289-0676; wendybrandes.com

2

Handmade 16-inch necklace in 22k yellow gold; $3,300; Dorian & Rose; 213-622-8480; instagram.com/ dorianandrose

4

Oversize hammeredgold click-hinge hoops in 18k gold; $4,500; Dana Bronfman; sales@ danabronfman.com; danabronfman.com

What JCK magazine’s BRITTANY SIMINITZ is loving this month

5

Openwork ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.39 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,375; Parade Design; 213-627-4019; paradedesign.com

“I’m all for delicate jewels, but right now, chunky chains and bubbly baubles are my favorite way to go for gold.”

—Brittany Siminitz, JCK contributing editor JCKONLINE.COM

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

18

This year’s GIA Symposium was more exciting (and scenic) than ever.

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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GREETINGS FROM MY flight home from Carlsbad, Calif., where I attended the 2018 GIA Symposium. Congratulations to GIA president and CEO Susan Jacques, senior vice president and chief marketing officer ­Kathryn Kimmel, and the entire GIA team on a ­smashing success!

The three-day event was attended by more than 750 members of the industry, from more than 35 countries. It truly represented the international scope of this exciting business.

The symposium kicked off with a centennial birthday celebration of the founder of modern gemology, Richard T. Liddicoat. The event was stunning, and included a giant hot-air balloon that lifted attendees to an even-better view of the sun setting over the Pacific.

The next morning saw the start of the educational sessions, divided into research and business tracks. I attended the business ­sessions, which were centered on case studies and themes such as authentic leadership, customer centricity, and disruptive innovation.

The sessions were run by the Harvard Business School executive education department (the same team that conducts the annual weeklong jewelry executive program in ­Cambridge,

Mass.)—and they were simply terrific. They brought to life the major challenges facing us all. Also terrific were those participants who enrolled to attend the sessions, read the case studies in advance, and were a part of the backand-forth dialogue with the professors. I’ve truly never been more impressed by the smarts found within our industry.

After two days of intense learning (and fun schmoozing at meals and cocktail parties), the event closed with a Futurescape Forum for all symposium attendees. The powerhouse panel—which included the CEOs and directors of De Beers Group, Signet Jewelers, Blue Nile, Diamond Cellar Holdings, Christie’s, and Chow Tai Fook—responded to New York University professor and futurist Scott Galloway’s 2019 predictions for the industry.

Interesting, fascinating, and engaging only begin to describe the forum. Wow. While some of the themes were wellworn (“the only constant is change”), the ­symposium addressed them in authentic ways, with concrete learnings. Change is indeed constant, and not every business will survive it. But for those who do, this industry has a bright future indeed!

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; TOP: GIA

ravo, GIA!

JCKONLINE.COM

10/31/18 1:50 PM

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 149 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

EDITORIAL News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com

U.S. ADVERTISING SALES CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

Senior Editor / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY

Cypress Collection 888.674.8340 info@graymoorlanedesigns.com www.graymoorlanedesigns.com Graymoor Lane Designs is a division of Artistry, Ltd.

Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com

FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHIHART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors BALL & ALBANESE, KEVIN CREMENS, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN, KEN GUNMAKER, ETHAN HILL, NICOLE LaMOTTE, STEPHEN LEWIS, MARK LUND, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, GAVIN O’NEILL, CODY PICKENS, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS, MIKAEL SCHULZ, PATRIC SHAW, JOEL STANS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENJI TOMA, DIEGO UCHITEL, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK

Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK • JCK Las Vegas JA NY Select Shows by Centurion Centurion South Beach Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

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LOOK

INSIDE Take

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2019 aGTa GemFair™ Tucson.

What you see may unexpectedly surprise you – over 200 AGTA Members showing on the main GemHall floor and over 35 unique designers in the Designer Grand Ballroom.

Our Members are your ethical resource for all links along the jewelry supply chain – mine to market.

Register now at agta.org/register-tucson and join us.

800-972-1162

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, LUXURY, JIS) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST ISRAEL CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ MIREK KRACZKOWSKI RANDI GEWERTZ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 800-887-3905 PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ Warsaw, Poland fax 917-591-8501 TAIWAN/VIETNAM 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com QUENTIN CHAN cell 48-600-344-881 Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F mirek@jckonline.com THAILAND 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, BUSABA THAWEEPHOON Kowloon, Hong Kong INDIA Reed Tradex Co. 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 KAUSHAL SHAH 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, cell 852-9438-9577 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, quentinchan@leadingm.com Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 66-2-686-7374, fax 66-2-686-7288 400011 Maharashtra, India cell 66-96-725-1525 91-22-2305-9305 busaba.thaw@reedtradex.co.th cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Event Vice President, Account Executive Sales Executive JCK Las Vegas LARS PARKER-MYERS DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE SARIN BACHMANN Clockwork, Essentials & Technology, Antique & Estate, JSA Security, 203-840-5651 Gallery, Italian Pavilion, Lab-Grown Diamonds sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com Retail Experience 203-840-5887 203-840-5808 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com Event Vice President, lparkermyers@ JCK Tucson reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager, KATIE DOMINESEY JCK Las Vegas 203-840-5470 Account Executive MONALISA DEPINA kdominesey@reedjewelrygroup.com ANA CROSBY 203-840-5556 Bridal, Currents, Diamond Plaza, mdepina@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director Plumb Club AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5305 Retailer Account Manager, 203-840-5375 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com JCK Tucson agochee@reedjewelrygroup.com ISABEL CAJULIS Sales Executive 203-840-5950 Special Events and BARBARA MURRAY icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com Conference Director Global Gemstones, KATE NELLIS First Look Senior Marketing Manager, 203-840-5675 203-840-5305 JCK Las Vegas knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com bmurray@reedjewelrygroup.com SAMANTHA NAGEL 203-840-5917 Account Executive Account Executive snagel@reedjewelrygroup.com ALEXANDRA WURSTER NINA MANCINI Passport, Hong Kong, Germany & Bridge, Design Center; International Companies; JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5469 203-840-5332 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com L U X U R Y & S W I S S W AT C H E V E N T S Event Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedjewelrygroup.com

Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Special Events and Conference Director KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Luxury 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design @ Luxury 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com

QJ

QUINTESSENCE JEWELRY CORPORATION

18K Gold Tanzanite & Diamond Collection

2ct-40ct Center Stones

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the industry authority

INSIDER

13.97ct center

DID YOU KNOW?

Tucson is one of only two U.S. cities on UNESCO’s 26-member Creative Cities of Gastronomy list (the other is San Antonio).

JCK TUCSON runs Feb. 6–9.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT tucson.jckonline.com.

11.08ct center

SHADES OF BLUE

Manufacturer & Wholesaler of 14K, 18K Gold & .925 Sterling Silver Jewelry with Genuine Gemstones & Diamonds

SEE US AT JIS MIAMI JANUARY 12-14, 2019

Quintessence Jewelry Corporation 1 Linden Place, Suite 400, Great Neck, NY 11021 (516) 439-5262 | Fax: (516) 439-5264 Order Toll Free: 1.877.405.5588 Email: sales@quintessencejewelry.com Exclusive B2B Wholesale Online Ordering at: www.QuintessenceJewelry.com

GO, JOHNNY, GO Missed the Luxury keynote from Johnny Cupcakes founder Johnny Earle at JCK Las Vegas? Don’t worry; JCK Events’ Kate Nellis took copious notes and she’s sharing his stories: “One time Johnny took two weeks off of work and hand-wrote birthday cards to all his top customers. He didn’t just say, ‘Thanks for your business, happy birthday.’ He took the time to learn a little about each customer first to personalize his notes…[like], ‘I noticed you are from Long Island, that’s where I got married!’ ” Visit jckinsider.com for more.

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.

TOP: (MAYNARDS) © VISIT TUCSON

27.89ct center

Though Pantone won’t announce its 2019 Color of the Year until December, JCK ’s Brittany Siminitz is already in a mood indigo.

Visit jckinsider.com for 18 blue jewels (including these Omi Privé earrings, top, and this Joshua J ring, above) and turn to page 82 for more on blue gems.

Proudly made in the USA Since 1951

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the industry authority

ONLINE

@JCKMagazine JCKmagazine @jckmagazine @jckmagazine

INSTAGEM

FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH Levi Higgs (@levi_higgs) is the archivist and social media manager at David Webb, but his own IG goes beyond a single brand. He’s a true lover and student of jewelry history, which he studies at museums, art fairs, and auction houses. “They are the best place to learn about jewelry,” he told The Adventurine.

World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry

516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com

The star(fish) of TEFAF New York ’17: a fully articulated Boivin brooch

Belperron dress clips in light green beryl and carved gray chalcedony

A Cartier double-headed dragon brooch spotted at Sotheby’s

A ’70s-tastic convertible Bulgari amethyst and enamel necklace

This David Webb zebra bracelet is one of Higgs’ favorite pieces.

A Renaissance revival brooch by 19th-century jeweler Carlo Giuliano

“What I want are jewelers…to be successful because at their core they want to create a tidal wave of change that corrects some of the deep-seated unfairness still in our industry.”

—JCKonline reader Christina Miller on “Maybe the Jewelry Industry Isn’t Shrinking, It’s Changing” JCKONLINE.COM

Social Diary

JEWELRY NIGHT OUT

28

1

A SoHo rooftop on a balmy latesummer evening proved to be the perfect networking location.

GANGS OF NEW YORK

Members of the NY Metro chapter of the Women’s Jewelry Association mixed and mingled at the sixth annual JNO on Sept. 13

Adwar Casting Co.’s Gregg Adwar and Marc Knobloch, vice president of Aron Knobloch

4

3

Jewelers of America’s Lauren Kalma, Lauren Thompson, and Amanda Gizzi

Signet Jewelers’ Heather Gardner and Gabrielle Grazi flank the Gordon Co.’s Ira Bergman.

5

Julie Zerbo, founder and editor-in-chief of The Fashion Law, was the night’s featured speaker.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

JCK110118_028_SocialDiary.indd 1

Reed Exhibitions’ Danny Eyzaguirre and Nina Mancini

6

7

National Jeweler ’s Michelle Graff and Gumuchian’s Jodi Goldsmith activate their twin powers.

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the industry authority

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS

A necklace from the Oscar de la Renta–Stacey Lee Webber collaboration

SPRING BLING

The latest New York Fashion Week gave us more jewelry than we’d seen in years

A

MODEL: JONAS GUSTAVSSON/SIPA VIA AP IMAGES

BY VENESSA LAU

S HE’S THE first major designer to show during New York ­Fashion Week, all eyes are always on Tom Ford.

And, boy, did he deliver for spring 2019, throwing down the gauntlet with a glamorous lineup reminiscent of his Gucci days— all slim skirts, lean gowns, and sharp blazers, a complete about-face from fall’s sparkly sweatshirts and leggings. “I became a designer because I wanted to make men and women feel more beautiful and to empower them with a feeling of confidence,” he said in the show notes. In other words: Goodbye, high-fashion streetwear. It’s time to get dressed up.

Ford wasn’t the only one who had grown tired of the casual.

Marc Jacobs finished the season with a similar battle cry, albeit one heavy on the romance: high bouffants, veiled boaters, ruffles and rosettes galore. The finery followed suit: bauble earrings, glittering statement necklaces, plus a bejeweled take on that greatest of elegant signifiers, the beribboned neck scarf.

All of which should be a boon to the jewelry industry. Froth and glamour beget bijoux—and lots of it. Ralph Lauren, in a

Oscar de la Renta wanted “this collection to be more jewelry-heavy than what they usually do,” Stacey Lee Webber told JCK.

JCKONLINE.COM

JCK110118_031_NEWSGEMS_v7.indd 1

11/1/18 11:48 AM

NEWS GEMS

THE SCOOP

Badgley Mischka’s asymmetrical linear crystal and shell gold earring

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

JCK110118_031_NEWSGEMS_v7.indd 2

50th-anniversary extravaganza in Central Park, had ornate chandelier and filigree styles—gemstone dazzlers rivaled only by the star power. (Oprah! Hillary Clinton!) Snow Xue Gao cast her gaze to the grande dames of ’60s Hong Kong, with pearls aplenty and mahjong tile earrings. Brandon Maxwell, meanwhile, channeled the best-dressed set in Dallas with a collection that included our ­favorite nod to the gussied-up look: a gold pendant in the shape of a lipstick case. Take that, #nomakeupmakeup.

Runways bloomed with floral jewelry too—Rebecca de Ravenel, Badgley Mischka—which plays equally well with this new mode of soft romance.

Nowhere was that more apparent than at Rodarte, where every exit was an ode to special-occasion dressing and flowers found their way from the embroideries and prints to the fresh bouquets in the models’ hair. As for the accoutrements,

by Maggie Schpak, designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy piled on sculptural earrings, massive starburst necklaces, and multiple armbands in the shape of flora and birds in flight. It was magical.

In fact, spring 2019 was a big outing for Mother Nature. We saw acorn drops at Carolina Herrera, butterfly earrings at VFiles, scorpion chokers at Brandon Maxwell, elaborate avian danglers at Zimmermann, fluttering feathers at Ulla Johnson. In a collaboration with Stacey Lee Webber, Oscar de la Renta’s Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia offered medallion cutouts of geese and horses.

Those touches of red coral? They spoke to a larger surf-and-sea trend, also spotted at R13 (shark teeth pendants), Anna Sui (shell jewelry), Michael Kors (rhinestone shell and starfish shapes), Maryam Nassir Zadeh (conch glass pendants), and Gypsy Sport (shell everything, including a male model’s unfortunate oyster-shell jockstrap).

This brings us to NYFW’s other big theme, which swings counter to the dressed-up mindset: bohemian-style craftiness. If all that shell imagery recalls

Jewelry in full bloom at Rodarte

a certain hippiness, well, you’re right.

Designers also explored simpler, more naive times, reviving humble techniques such as beading and crochet. The latter has an easy parallel in jewelry, with meshlike motifs coming to the fore.

At Area we got fringed crystal netting layered over dresses, T-shirts, and white shirting—plus matching wide fishnet chokers. Chainwork offers a more subtle take on the look, and proved popular throughout the shows, from Dion Lee’s curb-link earrings to Escada’s hulking cable-link necklaces; both Monse and Tory Burch amusingly set their chainlink jewelry against clothes printed with…chain links. Jonathan Simkhai, for his part, went more overt—covering hoops and baubles with actual crochet.

One of the smaller trends that will develop in the seasons to come (we’re calling it now!): flat-metal jewelry. We saw it at Rodarte, with those bird-shape armbands. But it also popped up at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Hellessy (cascading earrings from abstract 2-D shapes), Tadashi Shoji (celestial disc pendants by Sequin), and Nicole Miller (nameplates), among others. Stuart Vevers at Coach 1941 mined those industrial metalworks for his Sante Fe–inspired line, with silver breastplate necklaces and forks reworked as earrings and bracelets—which, depending on your familiarity with Disney movies, could be a part of the under-the-sea trend, too.

MODELS (L-R): VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO/GETTY; JONAS GUSTAVSSON/SIPA USA/NEWSCOM

32

JCKONLINE.COM

11/1/18 11:48 AM

NEWS GEMS

Q&A

33

On the floor at Spence Diamonds in (right) Austin, Texas, and (below) Scottsdale, Ariz.

3 Questions for...

ERIC LINDBERG THE EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN of Spence Diamonds, a 10-store chain with seven stores in Canada and three in the United States, spoke with JCK about his company’s expansion and why its stores are adopting an Applelike approach to sales. —ROB BATES

Have lab-grown diamonds become central to your business?

Our concept isn’t that we love lab diamonds or mined diamonds.

We don’t push anything. We take consumers through a deep education process. Our process is to show the options and let the consumer decide.

We are not quite ready to give a specific number, but the industry would be absolutely shocked when they see, with actual consumer choice, what the level of adoption [of lab-grown diamonds] is.

Fine Jewelry Displays

Spence will open two new stores this year in the Dallas–Fort Worth area and another new store in Canada.

How many stores do you foresee?

Our longer-term strategic plan calls for, by 2021, from 28 to 40 stores. [That’s about] five to 10 stores a year. We would like to open 10 [a year], but we want to open them in the right way. We are looking at major metropolitan areas where we think there will be demand for our Artisan Created Diamonds.

What makes your new “next generation” stores different?

They have what I would call a non-adversarial physical configuration. When you set up counters, it has someone in an authoritative position.

What we have done is more like Apple, where it’s impossible for someone to stand behind a counter.

JCKONLINE.COM

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com

NEWS GEMS

THE

What’s Clicking on JCKonline

The top stories for September.

Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline.com/ newsletters/subscribe.

1

This Is Pantone’s Spring 2019 Fashion Color Report: The color authority’s spring report spotlights 12 colorful shades and four neutral tones.

2

International Gemological Institute Purchased by Chinese Company: Chinese conglomerate Fosun Group purchased 80 percent of the diamond grading lab, which has branches all over the world.

3

Emmys 2018 Jewelry: Earrings Ruled, Necklaces Disappeared: JCK’s Emili Vesilind wondered: Where’s the bling on the red carpet this year?

4

Jeweler Kat Florence Alleges Sarah Jessica Parker Kept $150K in Borrowed Jewels: In a new legal filing, the brand claims Parker, its former spokesperson, didn’t return items she wore for a photo shoot.

5

Alex and Ani Plans to Sell to Fewer Independent Jewelers: As part of a distribution overhaul beginning in 2019, Alex and Ani will sell more of its product through its own stores.

“Walk into any jewelry store anywhere, and you are likely to see the same cases filled with solitaires, solitaires with halos, solitaires with double halos, diamond studs, and threestone rings.…

Consumers have been trained to expect that they will not see anything new or different at the jewelry store, so they do comparison research online and negotiate prices.”

—Industry consultant Andrea Hill in a Forbes column on “The Jewelry Industry’s Design Dilemma”

$885 MILLION Amount luxury retail site Farfetch raised in its Sept. 20 initial public offering, even though the inventoryless virtual boutique has yet to post a profit JCKONLINE.COM

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NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

36

its new consumer marketing push and Elizabeth Brewer as a consultant to its membership department. Brewer previously worked at Brown + Partners, de Boulle Diamond & Jewelry, the American Gem Trade Association, and ­ iamond Council of America.

D

Jim Duffy Carbon Aquaracer in 41 mm black PVDcovered titanium case with carbon bezel; $4,000; TAG Heuer; 973-4671890; tagheuer.com

COMINGS AND GOINGS

Tracr, the industry blockchain platform being developed by De Beers Group, has appointed tech exec Jim Duffy to be its general manager.

lead TAG Heuer. In addition, Frédéric Arnault, son of LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault, has been ­appointed TAG Heuer’s ­strategy and digital director.

Michael Hill International has appointed Daniel Bracken as

Jean-Claude Biver Jean-Claude Biver has stepped down from his role as CEO of LVMH’s watch division, though he will serve as the group’s nonexecutive chairman, a nonoperational position. Stéphane Bianchi, former CEO of beauty and cosmetics company Yves Rocher, will take over the watch division and directly NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

JCK110118_031_NEWSGEMS_v7.indd 5

its new CEO. Predecessor Phil Taylor is stepping down because of a health issue.

Bracken is currently CEO of Specialty Fashion Group, an Australian retailer that sells women’s clothing.

Company veteran Helen King has been appointed the new president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels Americas.

She replaces Alain Bernard, who has been promoted to president and CEO of the North American division of Richemont, the brand’s parent company.

appointed chief operating officer of high-end Swiss watch brand Speake-Marin.

He previously held executive positions at Baume & Mercier and Piaget.

Helen King Jewelers of America has hired JCK publisher Mark Smelzer as a consultant for

Jérôme Lambert, who has served as Richemont’s chief operating officer since last November, has been ­appointed the luxury ­conglomerate’s CEO. He previously ­headed ­Richemont brands ­ ontblanc, ­Jaeger-LeCoultre, M and A. Lange & Söhne.

Andrey Zharkov, former president of Russian diamond miner Alrosa, has started a lab-grown diamond company called Ultra C.

Anders Colding Friis, CEO of Pandora since 2015, has

resigned. Until a successor is appointed, former Body Shop CEO Jeremy Schwartz will join the company as chief operating officer and will run the company along with chief financial officer Anders Boyer.

In addition, the company has hired Sid Keswani, CEO of Texas grocery chain Fiesta Mart, as president of its Americas division and Nike veteran Geena Tok as its managing director for China.

Phyllis Bergman has stepped

Christian Bartosch has been

The AGTA has elected Ruben Bindra of B & B Fine Gems in Los Angeles its new board president. He takes over from Jeffrey ­Bilgore, who has served in the role since 2016.

down after 32 years as CEO of Mercury Ring to start a company that will consult with industry leaders on challenges they face. She reportedly will be replaced by Michael Harris.

Stewart Wicht

In December, Stewart Wicht will retire from his

role as president and CEO of Rolex Watch U.S.A. after nearly eight years heading the division. No replacement has been announced.

Hans-Kristian Hoejsgaard has

been named interim CEO of

MCH Group, parent company

of the Baselworld watch and jewelry show. He replaces René Kamm.

Patrick Pruniaux, who currently serves as CEO of

JCKONLINE.COM

11/1/18 11:49 AM

a consumer marketing campaign for the industry, by the industry.

94%

of retailers and suppliers surveyed see the need for a national, unified advertising campaign and think it will benefit the entire industry.

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Jewelers of America American Gem Society (AGS) Emerald Expositions Forevermark Gemological Institute of America (GIA) Gumuchian Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group JCK Industry Fund Rahaminov Diamonds Royal Chain Group Greenland Ruby Independent Retailer Pioneer Krombholz Jewelers

LEARN MORE AT WWW.JEWELERS.ORG/CONSUMERCAMPAIGN

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

38

Bonhams on New Bond Street in London

Ulysse Nardin, will take over a second Swiss watch brand, Girard-Perregaux, along with its sister brand JeanRichard.

All three companies are owned by Kering.

Zini, a veteran of the Israeli political and business worlds, as its new managing director.

He replaces Eli Avidar.

president of product, Joshua Gilbert to vice president of sales, and Albee Schimanski to vice president of trade strategy.

OPENING Signet will open a James Allen concept store in

Eran Zini

The Israel Diamond Exchange has appointed Eran

Hearts On Fire has promoted a trio of company veterans to new roles. Krista Beermann has been promoted to vice

COMPANIES Bonhams, the 225-year-old

auction house specializing in

jewelry, art, and antiques, has been acquired by British private equity firm Epiris Fund II. Bucherer, the European

watch retailer that bought Tourneau in January, has acquired Baron & Leeds.

Hawaii-based Baron & Leeds operates four retail stores, two of which are Rolex boutiques.

HONORED For the fourth straight year, Waterville, Maine–based Day’s Jewelers has been named one of the best places to work in Maine by the Society for Human Resource Management, part of the Maine State Council.

Watch rental site Eleven James has gone offline and apparently shut down, according to reports.

Fosun Group has paid

$108.8 million to purchase 80 percent of grading lab International Gemological Institute.

CEO Roland Lorie, who owns the other 20 percent, will continue to head the lab.

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group has purchased the assets of TransGuardian, a

cloud-based shipping logistics company that specializes in high-value items. TransGuardian execs Jim Moseley, Madlene Moseley, and Randy Miller will all join Jewelers Mutual.

Michelle Adorjan Chila, Sherry Park Mogul, a social platform designed to support women in business around the world, has listed three jewelry execs on its 2018 Top 100 Innovators in Marketing list: Tacori’s Michelle Adorjan Chila (SVP, marketing and publicity) and Sherry Park (media and communications manager), as well as Clair Mah, VP of global category marketing for Tiffany & Co.’s jewelry collections.

JCKONLINE.COM

CHILA AND PARK: COURTESY OF TACORI; BONHAMS: GRANT SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY

Krista Beermann

Washington, D.C., this fall that will feature what it calls a “millennial-inspired” shopping experience. Signet bought the e-tailer last year.

NEWS GEMS

EM

40

GOING GAGA FOR GARNET

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant G H

$6,800 $6,080

$6,320 $5,800

$5,700 $5,450

FINE

Alexandrite $4,720

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

$4,470

Rhodolite Garnet I

$5,700

$5,200

$4,950

$4,000

J

$4,900

$4,500

$4,080

$3,760

1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round

NEWS FLASH: THE colored stones currently surging in the marketplace are not the Big Three. There are many gem varieties in demand in the market, but garnet, spinel, and tourmaline are popular globally. Among these, garnet is the standout. Most gem garnet types are reportedly selling well.

Of these, tsavorite, orange and reddish-orange spessartine, and purple and purplish-red rhodolite are noteworthy.

Prices are also rising as demand increases. The changes in mining sector regulations in producing nations in East Africa have resulted in a shortage of fine rough material, one reason prices are climbing. Plan for higher gem costs in 2019.

Even so, garnets are still quite affordable relative to other gems that share similar colors. Garnet, like tourmaline and spinel, occurs in a broad range of colors and intensities. Just as tourmaline and spinel have experienced a spike in popularity in recent years, garnet is following the same pattern.

Strong demand in both the North American and East Asian markets will ensure that the full palette of gem garnets will be featured in designer jewelry this season and into next year.

G H

$3,570 $3,200

$3,200 $3,000

$2,700 $2,600

Rubellite Tourmaline $2,340

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

$2,270

Tsavorite Garnet I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant G H

$12,200 $10,300

$11,300 $10,000

$9,350 $8,300

1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp) $7,600

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

$7,150

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I

$9,700

$7,900

$7,600

$6,725

J

$7,200

$7,300

$6,400

$6,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

Pink Sapphire $6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

J

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

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BENEFITS OF JOINING THE JSA:

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Visit JSA at www.jewelerssecurity.org or contact JSA via jsa2@jewelerssecurity.org or 212-687-0328.

For the latest news follow us on Twitter @jsajohnkennedy.

UNITED STATES BANKRUPTCY COURT SOUTHERN DISTRICT OF NEW YORK

Chapter 11

In re:

No. 18-10509 (SHL)

FIRESTAR DIAMOND, INC., et al.,

( Jointly Administered)

Debtors.

NOTICE OF DEADLINE FOR FILING OF PROOFS OF CLAIM: ON OR BEFORE DECEMBER 11, 2018 TO: ALL PERSONS AND ENTITIES WITH CLAIMS AGAINST FIRESTAR DIAMOND, INC., OLD AJ, INC. (f/k/a A. JAFFE, INC.), OR FANTASY, INC. The United States Bankruptcy Court for the Southern District of New York has entered an Order establishing December 11, 2018 (the “Bar Date”) as the last date for each person or entity (including individuals, partnerships, corporations, joint ventures, trusts, and governmental units) to file a proof of claim against any of the above-captioned debtors (the “Debtors”).

The Bar Date and the procedures set forth below for filing proofs of claim apply to all claims against the Debtors that arose before February 26, 2018 (the “Filing Date”), the date on which the Debtors commenced these cases under chapter 11 of the United States Bankruptcy Code, except for claims listed in Section 4 below that are specifically excluded from the Bar Date filing requirement.

1.

WHO MUST FILE A PROOF OF CLAIM

You MUST file a proof of claim to vote on a chapter 11 plan or to share in distributions from the Debtors’ bankruptcy estates if you assert a claim that arose before the Filing Date, and the claim is not one of the types of claim described in Section 4 below. The Bar Date applies to a claim based on an act or omission of a Debtor that occurred before the Filing Date, even if the claim is not now fixed, liquidated, or certain or did not mature or become fixed, liquidated, or certain before the Filing Date. Claims under Section 503(b)(9) of the Bankruptcy Code must also be filed by the Bar Date.

Under Section 101(5) of the Bankruptcy Code and as used in this Notice, the word “claim” means: (a) a right to payment, whether or not such right is reduced to judgment, liquidated, unliquidated, fixed, contingent, matured, unmatured, disputed, undisputed, legal, equitable, secured, or unsecured; or (b) a right to an equitable remedy for breach of performance if such breach gives rise to a right to payment, whether or not such right to an equitable remedy is reduced to judgment, fixed, contingent, matured, unmatured, disputed, undisputed, secured, or unsecured.

2.

WHAT TO FILE

Your filed proof of claim must conform substantially to Official Form No. 410; a case- specific proof of claim form accompanies this notice. The Trustee is enclosing a proof of claim form for use in these cases; if your claim has been scheduled by the Debtors, the form also sets forth the amount of your claim as scheduled, the specific Debtor against which the claim is scheduled, and whether the claim is scheduled as disputed, contingent, or unliquidated. You will receive a different proof of claim form for each claim scheduled in your name by the Debtors. You may utilize the proof of claim form(s) provided by the Trustee to file your claim. Additional proofs of claim forms may be obtained at www.uscourts.gov/forms/bankruptcy-forms.

All proof of claim forms must be signed by the claimant or, if the claimant is not an individual, by an authorized agent of the claimant. It must be written in English and be denominated in United States currency. You should attach to your completed proof of claim any documents on which the claim is based (if voluminous, attach a summary) or an explanation as to why the documents are not available.

Your proof of claim form must not contain complete social security numbers or taxpayer identification numbers (only the last four digits), a complete birth date (only the year), the name of a minor (only the minor’s initials), or a financial institution account number (only the last four digits of such financial institution account).

Any holder of a claim against more than one Debtor must file a separate proof of claim with respect to each such Debtor and must identify on the proof of claim the specific Debtor against which the claim is asserted and the case number of that Debtor’s bankruptcy case. A list of the names of the Debtors and their case numbers is set forth in the footnote to the case caption above.

3.

WHEN AND WHERE TO FILE

A proof of claim may be filed by sending it by U.S. mail, overnight delivery, or hand delivery to the following address: Firestar Diamond, Inc. Claims Processing c/o Omni Management Group 5955 De Soto Ave., Suite 100 Woodland Hills, CA 91367 or by hand delivery to the United States Bankruptcy Court for the Southern District of New York, One Bowling Green, Room 534, New York, NY 10004. A proof of claim is deemed filed only when received at one of the addresses listed above or filed with the Court electronically on the PACER system. A proof of claim may not be delivered by facsimile, telecopy, or electronic mail transmission.

4.

CLAIMS FOR WHICH A PROOF OF CLAIM NEED NOT BE FILED

You do not need to file a proof of claim on behalf of a claim on or before the Bar Date if the claim falls into one or more of the following categories: (a) Any claim that has already been asserted in a proof of claim filed with the Clerk of the Bankruptcy Court for the Southern District of New York in a form substantially similar to Official Bankruptcy Form No. 410 (unless you wish to assert the claim against a Debtor not mentioned in the prior proof of claim, in which case an additional proof of claim must be filed); (b) Any claim that is listed on the Schedules filed by the Debtors provided that (i) the claim is not scheduled as “disputed,” “contingent,” or “unliquidated;” (ii) the claimant does not disagree with the amount, nature, and priority of the claim as set forth in the Schedules; and (iii) the claimant does not dispute that the claim is an obligation only of the specific Debtor against which the claim is listed in the Schedules; (c) Any claim that previously been allowed by Order of the Court; (d) Any claim that has been paid in full by any of the Debtors; (e) Any claim for which a different deadline has previously been fixed by this Court; (f ) Any claim by one Debtor against another Debtor; and (g) Any claim allowable under § 503(b) and § 507(a) (2) of the Bankruptcy Code as an expense of administration of the Debtor’s estates. (h) Any claim of a current employee of the Debtors, but only to the extent that such claim is solely for reimbursement of ordinary course business expenses or outstanding wages, base salary, commissions, benefits, bonuses, or other ordinary course compensation; but any employee of a Debtor who wishes to assert a claim against a Debtor that is not based solely on reimbursement of ordinary course business expenses or outstanding wages, base salary, commissions, benefits, bonuses, or other ordinary course compensation must file a proof of claim for such claim on or before the General Bar Date. (i)

The Debtors’ pre-petition lenders (Israel Discount Bank of New York and HSBC Bank USA, National Association).

If you are a holder of an equity interest in the Debtors, you need not file a proof of interest with respect to the ownership of such equity interest at this time. However, if you assert a claim against a Debtor, including a claim relating to such equity interest or the purchase or sale of such interest, a proof of such claim must be filed on or before the Bar Date pursuant to the procedures set forth in this Notice.

This Notice is being sent to many persons and entities that have had some relationship with or have done business with the Debtors but might not have an unpaid claim against the Debtors. The fact that you have received this Notice does not mean that you have a claim or that the Debtors, the Trustee, or the Court believe that you have a claim against the Debtors.

5.

EXECUTORY CONTRACTS AND UNEXPIRED LEASES

If you have a claim arising out of the rejection of an executory contract or unexpired lease as to which the order authorizing such rejection is dated on or before ______________, the date of entry of the Bar Order, you must file a proof of claim by the Bar Date. Any person or entity that has a claim arising from the rejection of an executory contract or unexpired lease, as to which the order is dated after the date of entry of the Bar Order, you must file a proof of claim with respect to such claim so as to be received by the date fixed by the Court in the applicable order authorizing rejection of such contract or lease.

6.

CONSEQUENCES OF FAILURE TO FILE A PROOF OF CLAIM BY THE BAR DATE

ANY HOLDER OF A CLAIM THAT IS NOT EXEMPTED FROM THE REQUIREMENTS OF THIS ORDER, AS SET FORTH IN SECTION 4 ABOVE, AND THAT FAILS TO TIMELY FILE A PROOF OF CLAIM IN THE APPROPRIATE FORM SHALL NOT BE TREATED AS A CREDITOR WITH RESPECT TO SUCH CLAIM FOR THE PURPOSES OF VOTING ON ANY PLAN OF REORGANIZATION FILED IN THESE CASES OR PARTICIPATING IN ANY DISTRIBUTION IN THE DEBTORS’ CASES ON ACCOUNT OF SUCH CLAIM. 7.

THE DEBTORS’ SCHEDULES AND ACCESS THERETO

You may be listed as the holder of a claim against one or more of the Debtors in the Debtors’ Schedules of Assets and Liabilities and/or Schedules of Executory Contracts and Unexpired Leases (collectively, the “Schedules”). To determine if and how you are listed on the Schedules, please refer to the descriptions set forth on the enclosed proof of claim forms regarding the nature, amount, and status of your claim(s). If you received post-petition payments from the Debtors (as authorized by the Court) on account of your claim, the enclosed proof of claim form will reflect the net amount of your claims. If the Trustee believes that you might hold a claim against more than one Debtor, you should receive multiple proof of claim forms, each of which should reflect the nature and amount of your claim against one Debtor as listed in the Schedules.

If you rely on the Debtors’ Schedules, it is your responsibility to determine that the claim is accurately listed in the Schedules. However, you may rely on the enclosed form, which lists your claim as scheduled, identifies the Debtor against which it is scheduled, and specifies whether the claim is disputed, contingent, or unliquidated.

As set forth above, if you accept the nature, amount, and status of your claim as listed in the Schedules, and if you accept that your claim is only against the Debtor specified in the Schedules, and if your claim is not described as “disputed,” “contingent,” or “unliquidated,” you need not file a proof of claim. Otherwise, or if you decide to file a proof of claim, you must do so before the Bar Date in accordance with the procedures set forth in this Notice.

Copies of the Debtors’ Schedules are available for inspection at www.omnimgt.com/firestardiamond. Copies of the Schedules may also be examined between the hours of 9:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m., Monday through Friday (except Federal holidays) at the Office of the Clerk of the Bankruptcy Court, One Bowling Green, Room 534, New York, New York 10004-1408. Copies of the Debtors’ Schedules may also be obtained by written request at the following address and telephone number: Omni Management Group, 5955 De Soto Ave., Suite 100 , Woodland Hills, CA 91367, (818) 906-8300.

A holder of a possible claim against the Debtors should consult an attorney regarding any matters not covered by this notice, such as whether the holder should file a proof of claim.

43

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NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR INTERNATIONAL

November Birthstone

CITRINE Blossom earrings with 43 cts. t.w. citrine, 6.5 cts. t.w. lemon quartz, 0.7 ct. t.w. pink topaz, and 0.16 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $6,300; Alex Soldier; 212-354-4244; alexsoldier.com

29–DEC. 2

JEWELRY, FASHION & ­A CCESSORIES SHOW

Schaumburg, Ill. jfashow.com

30–DEC. 2

DALLAS ­C HRISTMAS BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Grapevine, Texas

7–9

BATON ROUGE JEWELRY AND MERCHANDISE SHOW

Baton Rouge, La. helenbrett.com

GEMFAIRE

Santa Barbara, Calif.

intergem.com

Rosemont, Ill.

GREENSBORO GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW

10–11

Los Angeles

intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

White Plains, N.Y. intergem.com

Manama, Bahrain

Hamburg, Germany

jewelleryarabia.com

29–DEC. 2 JMA HONG KONG Hong Kong

jewelryshows.org/en

30–DEC. 2

MINERALIEN HAMBURG mineralienhamburg.de

21–24

JAIPUR ­J EWELLERY SHOW Jaipur, India

jaipurjewellery show.org

4–6

Ahmedabad, India ggjs.co.in

SWAYAMVAR ­P REMIUM ­J EWELLERY SHOW Rajkot, India

namasteindiaevents. com/swayamvar

• JANUARY 4–6

GEMFAIRE

Santa Rosa, Calif. gemfaire.com

4–7

PHILADELPHIA GIFT SHOW Oaks, Pa.

philadelphia giftshow.com

6–8

ACCESSORIES THE SHOW

New York City

WHOLE BEAD SHOW Honolulu

wholebead.com

ubmfashion.com

11–13

GEMFAIRE

Del Mar, Calif. gemfaire.com

12–14 JIS JANUARY

Miami Beach, Fla. jisshow.com

gemfaire.com

gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW MIAMI: LISA-BLUE/ISTOCK/GETTY

• DECEMBER

Costa Mesa, Calif.

gtshows.com

GUJARAT GOLD JEWELLERY SHOW

7–9

gemin.eu

GEMFAIRE

Greensboro, N.C.

JEWELLERY ARABIA

20–24

Athens, Greece

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

aksshow.com

• JANUARY

GEMIN

U.S. • NOVEMBER

• • NOVEMBER DECEMBER

December Birthstone

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD

TURQUOISE Ring in 18k yellow gold with turquoise and diamonds enclosed in a white sapphire Kaleidoscope Shaker; $4,320; Moritz Glik; 212-679-0948; moritzglik.com

Las Vegas iwjg.com

14–16

GEMFAIRE San Diego

gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Chantilly, Va. intergem.com

Life’s a (Miami) beach at JIS Jan. 12–14.

GET READY FOR… JCK TUCSON FEB. 6–9

JCKONLINE.COM

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585.225.3390

the industry authority

45

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK

I

Ivka Adam Iconery iconery.com

UNDER THE INFLUENCE COURTESY OF ICONERY

Iconery’s Ivka Adam on finding the sweet spot between fine jewelry manufacturing and social media marketing

BY EMILI VESILIND

CONERY, A HYBRID jewelry e-commerce site and manufacturer based in Los Angeles, was founded on the modern idea of harnessing the power of influence to forge fun and fruitful brand collaborations. The company is the brainchild of marketing veteran Ivka Adam, who says she noticed a tipping point in the influence game around 2014—celebrities and social media stars were suddenly eclipsing the brands they were representing, in both fame and marketing oomph. ­Ultimately, she realized that “no one was offering influencers the opportunity to do their own jewelry.”

Partnering with Andrea Linett, founding creative ­director of Lucky magazine, she put together a jewelry supply chain and introduced Iconery in 2015 with help from investors. With its sleek digital storefront, a staff

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Shop Talk

46

INNOVATIVE RETAILER Adam wearing the Stone Fox Bride Snake ring and a family heirloom diamond (her mom designed the setting)

Jewelry by Striiike, Rashida Jones, Anne Sisteron, Kim France, Wren, and Michelle Branch

“We act as an influencer’s sales agent. We’re your manufacturing, design, retail, and marketing partner.” —Ivka Adam

Who was the first influencer you partnered with—and how was that connection made?

It was Rashida Jones in 2016. That was a very cool opportunity. She had done jewelry before, but as a collaboration [with Dannijo]. The experience perfectly encapsulated what we wanted to be. When we were in conversation with her, she NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

JCK110118_045_SHOP_Innovative Retailer.indd 2

said she always wanted to create her own ­jewelry—she loved that chunky Cartier ’70s look, and also motifs like ankhs from the ’90s.

We started developing a collection with her, gathering inspiration ideas, and then creating a story around it.

I remember thinking how incredible my team is—she had inspirations that ranged four decades and included so many motifs, and we were able to pull together a really cohesive collection.

What other collaborations have been pivotal for the company so far?

The collection we did earlier this year with influencer Jen Gotch was amazing. She’s the founder of [fashion, accessories, and home decor brand] Ban.do, and she’s very public with having struggled with bipolar disorder and anxiety. We did tiny nameplate necklaces that had words like Depression and Anxiety. She literally emailed me out of the blue telling me she had these jewelry ideas. And she ended up being a dream to work with. One

hundred percent of net proceeds from the collection go to Bring Change to Mind, which supports mental health awareness. The collection has ­expanded to five styles, and she’s done three big drops so far. With each launch, the pieces sell out.

How does your design team work with influencers on a collection?

If they’re not in town, we get them on a shared screen to talk through the designs, so they’re essentially sitting side by side with the CAD ­designers. They’re cocreating as everyone’s ­working, changing the designs as we go. And in that process, we’re ­explaining to them how to hit a target price point and doing a little ­education on things like that.

Iconery-made collections retail through various channels—­ including your own. How do you strategize retail versus wholesale?

It doesn’t really matter where people sell their collections. We have five

designers in Nordstrom and six in Bloomingdale’s right now, for example. We act as an influencer’s sales agent.… We’re your manufacturing, design, retail, and marketing partner.

We make it easy. If you went out and tried to launch a collection yourself, you’d have to…create this entire supply chain on your own. My background is pretty steep in ­e-commerce marketing, so we also coach the influencers on how to talk about their collection. Depending on who they are, they may not be super savvy on how to make the most of their posts.

We’ll coach them on content and on how to tell the story. It’s important that they tell a story. People want to connect with people.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER

JEWELRY: EMMA FEIL (2)

­ eaded by CEO Adam and stacked h with designers and jewelry historians, and top-to-bottom manufacturing capabilities, the company is enviably nimble: Iconery partners with influencers (and the occasional brand, such as Charles & Colvard) on cobranded collections, manufactures private-label lines, and retails most of the jewelry it makes on its own well-trafficked site.

“The way I describe ourselves is a supply chain as a service,” says Adam, a former eBay exec who began her ­career in business development at Ernst & Young. “I love being able to help people build their own brands.”

JCKONLINE.COM

10/31/18 2:28 PM

An American Wedding Deserves An American Made Band TM

www.hooverandstrong.com 800-759-9997

Shop Talk

THORSTEN BOLD • UNIQUE • MODERN

IL

TM

SQUAD GOALS

BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: What’s your best advice for creating a cohesive and high-performing sales team? a: Consistency and structure in our weekly staff meeting, along with weekly sales training, have made a huge difference in sales performance. And another practice I’ve seen major payoff from has been rolling my sleeves up and getting on the sales floor and teaching by example. We team-sell together, and other times employees observe from the outside. Another important technique we practice is setting individual and team quotas and keeping them updated almost daily on a dry-erase board on the wall.

a: Commit your entire sales

CHAE CARTER OWNER CARTER’S JEWELRY Petal, Miss. cartersjewelry.com

a: Ask yourself what you want

WAYNE ADDESSI OWNER ADDESSI JEWELERS Ridgefield, Conn. addessijewelers.com

out of this team. Then identify the most important results you insist on—but make your communications part of a team effort for success for you both. Make sure employees truly understand your business. Consider multiple strategies for you and the employee, such as benefits, salary, hourly pay, results-based commission steps, retirement plans, and automobile expense coverage. And get them involved in community projects and committees.

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

THORSTENRINGS.COM 888-209-4757 SUPPORT@THORSTENRINGS.COM

MALCOLM KOLL PRESIDENT CHARLES KOLL JEWELLERS San Diego charleskoll.com

process to writing, and make sure to include measurables like time to follow up with a client, method for following up, and frequency for follow-ups.

Salespeople perform best when they know what’s expected of them and realize that expectations are being measured in real time.

CHANCE CARPENTER GOLDSMITH BIG ISLAND JEWELERS Kailua-Kona, Hawaii bigislandjewelers.com

a:

All staff members, regardless of position, need to understand the brand, its values, and points of differentiation. A phenomenal sales team needs to be able to create, maintain, and increase sale opportunities for a spectrum of clients. Managers need to lead by example with open communication and expertise— encouraging collaboration and always celebrating successes as a team.

JCKONLINE.COM

SHOP TALK

CAUSES TO CELEBRATE

STARS OF INDIA

K

A NorCal jewelry-maker helps gender violence victims in India start anew

BY MATT VILLANO

Handmade sterling silver Coral Reef earrings ($55; her futurecoalition.org); 100 percent of the profits support HFC’s female artisans.

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OLK ATA, INDIA, IS more than 7,000 miles away from the Bay Area, but that hasn’t stopped Northern ­California resident and goldsmith ­Dianna Badalament from changing the lives of people in the cultural capital of East India every day.

In conjunction with a Florida-based nonprofit, Her Future Coalition, Badalament trains victims of severe gender violence to become salaried jewelry-makers and designers. The goals: to help these women get on track with new lives and to empower them to create jewelry they can sell to fund the program.

Badalament has been donating time and expertise to HFC for the better part of the past eight years. Most of her work during that time has occurred at shelter homes—safe houses for young women who have been victimized by human trafficking and other forms of gender violence. Some of her students have been as young as 14; most are between 15 and 22. All told, she estimates she single-handedly has trained more than 50 young women.

“It’s not easy to learn how to make jewelry,” she says. “Taking a piece of silver or gold that doesn’t look like anything and turning it into something beautiful is powerful. It’s making something out of nothing. It’s a metaphor

49

Far left: Dianna Badalament with a few future jewelry-makers; left and bottom: women in Kolkata put their skills to the test.

for the transformation the women are undergoing in their own lives.”

Serendipity led Badalament to HFC. In 2010, upon graduating from the goldsmithing program at San ­Francisco’s Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts, she spotted a post on social media about a nonprofit looking to launch a ­jewelry-making mentorship program in India. She jumped at the chance, traveling to Kolkata on her first trip, and on her second stint opening a jewelry program at a shelter home in Boisar, in India’s Maharashtra state. Since then, her focus has been largely in Kolkata.

The organization also supports vocational programs in Kathmandu, Nepal, and in Chiang Rai, Thailand.

Sarah Symons, HFC’s founder and executive director, says that while most alumni make jewelry (which can be found on herfuturecoalition.org), ­women also have gone on to careers in nursing, cooking, and animal husbandry.

“A lot of times when people are rescued, they are not given tools and resources they need to ­protect ­themselves, and they end up ­being ­violated and exploited again and again,” Symons explains. “Our programs are long-term; they enable people to be able to protect themselves to become free and independent and then pay it forward.”

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

10/31/18 2:36 PM

SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

50

357 MILLBURN AVE. MILLBURN, N.J.

The Jhanna motto: “The gift of jewelry is the belief in the immortality of the sentiment.”

JHANNA FINE JEWELRY

Behind a quaint storefront on Millburn’s main drag sits Jhanna Fine Jewelry, a haven for suburban New Jersey luxury jewelry lovers

W

BY TINA KELLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY BALL & ALBANESE

Above: owners and designers Rudolf Shtainhorn and Jhanna Krentsel

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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ALKING INTO JHANNA Krentsel and Rudolf Shtainhorn’s Jhanna Fine Jewelry store, customers pass between potted flowering vines, under a peace sign fashioned from silvery balls, and into what feels like a carefully coiffed cave, with dark stucco walls that help all that glitters within shine more brightly. There’s a whimsical chair crafted out of cattle horn and hide, an oriental rug, and other seats molded from Indonesian tree roots. Beneath the high pressed-tin ceiling, a large sprig of coppery vine—which Krentsel found while walking to work one day—emphasizes the showroom’s naturalistic bent.

Owners and designers Krentsel and Shtainhorn are partners in business and life. After graduating from the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, Krentsel realized she wanted to be her own boss. “I hate corporations and would rather work for myself,” she says. Shtainhorn, who trained as an architect in Ukraine, honed his skills by working for model-makers for such experts as Jean Schlumberger and David Yurman.

At the couple’s first location in Union, N.J., they noticed that many of their customers came from Millburn, one of the JCKONLINE.COM

10/31/18 2:40 PM

51

“We always wanted to be a neighborhood store. We’re still a neighborhood store.”

—Rudolf Shtainhorn

richest towns in the state, and its Short Hills census district, the fifth-richest area in the country. “We thought, the mountain doesn’t have to come to us,” Shtainhorn says. “Thirty-three years later, here we are.”

NEW JERSEY LIFE Those decades have been eventful, as the business weathered recessions and floods, including one that left the store in need of $100,000 in repairs, with fish in the basement and 30 inches of water at street level. That flood also left several dings in the Steuben glass of their 1997 Jewel Award, which Shtainhorn won for an engagement ring. He also had a hand in redesigning the Stanley Cup championship ring for the New Jersey Devils in 2003.

While the jewelers enjoy updating vintage pieces, custom design makes up a third of their work. Their signature style is organic with a contemporary twist, influenced by Art Nouveau and Beaux Arts. “Our jewelry is all about uniqueness and the exclusivity of the gems, but not necessarily outpriced for regular people,” he says. Rings, for instance, start at $370 and go to $29,900.

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Shtainhorn makes most of his pieces right in the store’s back room. “Before we give it to our clients, it has to be something we physically want to have ourselves,” he says. The designers like taking customers on the journey from a rendering to a finished piece, with wearers often stopping in to see the process.

FAMILY & VALUE “Our best client is an independent, professional female who doesn’t need to ask her husband,” Shtainhorn says. “They buy for themselves. We like to make our clients our friends.”

Customers visit regularly even after moving out of the area, and the store occasionally sells engagement rings to clients’ children, who may become smitten with the charming Champagne ­Bubbles band—one of the store’s most popular items. “We believe that one of the gifts that could potentially become an heirloom is a piece of jewelry,” Shtainhorn says. “So if you love somebody and think you’ll love them forever, you want to give them something that’s not a sweater or a pair of shoes, but something you can leave to your grandchildren.”

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-partof-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

10/31/18 2:40 PM

call for our new 2019 catalog

833 Market Street, 10th Floor • San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: (415) 543-1580 • 800-864-0767 • Fax: (415) 398-3699 www.herco.com • Email: info@herco.com

53

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NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK

2

1

3

PETAL PUSHERS 1/ Botanical Marquetry flower earrings in wood with black pearl and diamonds; $11,000; Silvia Furmanovich; 866301-MUSE; silviafurmanovich.com

4

2/ Gold, enamel, and diamond earrings in 18k and 22k yellow gold; $6,060; Amrapali; info@amrapalijewels. com; amrapalijewels.com

5

3/ Lapis and multicolored gemstone drop earrings with diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $3,650; Brent Neale; 646-745-6831; brentneale.com

Think florals are fit only for a spring fling?

Think again. Bodacious blooms are now perennial favorites.

4/ Wild Rose pink conch shell earrings in 18k gold with pearls; $1,355; Annette Ferdinandsen; info@aferdinandsen. com; annetteferdinandsen.com

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

5/ Venetian Glass Cameo earrings with London blue topaz and dahlias in 18k white gold; $2,150; Bahina; 41-31-368-0775; bahina.com

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the look

RED CARPET

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CONSUMED WITH EMMY

Primary colors and classic silhouettes commanded the spotlight on TV’s big night

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

The star of Amazon’s original ­comedy series The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel lived up to her name with a goddess-style drop-shouldered dip-dyed chiffon Oscar de la Renta gown that her stylist practically swiped right off the runway a week earlier. Tiffany & Co. jewelry—­ including waterfall-style ­diamond earrings from the brand’s new Paper Flowers collection—completed the Emmy-winning actress’ classic look.

Truly marvelous!

Vivian marquisecut earrings with Swarovski crystals in pewter with antique silver plating; $150; Ben-Amun; maria@ ben-amun.com; ben-amun.com

Earrings in platinum with diamonds from the Tiffany Paper Flowers collection; $175,000; Tiffany & Co.

JUDITH LIGHT

Does anyone work the red carpet as well as Judith Light? Nominated for her role as Marilyn Miglin in The Assassination of Gianni Versace: ­American Crime Story, the 69-yearold (!) Light struck a pose that seemed designed to show off her wristwear—three vintage ­Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. ­colored stone and gold bangles. We’re not sure what we love more: her bracelet stack or her sunshine-yellow ­Christian Siriano gown!

Angela Cummings lapis bangle bracelet in 18k gold, signed T & Co. for Tiffany & Co.; $15,500; Beladora; sales@ beladora.com; beladora.com

UNDER $500

UNDER $100,000 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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Luminal earrings with 16.58 cts. t.w. colorless marquise-, round-, and pearshape diamonds; $73,000; Zydo Italy; ija@zydoamerica. com; zydo.it

UNDER $250

Positano striped bracelet in blue lapis resin dipped in 18k yellow gold; $290; Aurélie Bidermann; 212335-0604; aurelie bidermann.com

Freccia bracelet in 18k rose gold with lapis and rock crystal; $20,100; Vhernier; 646-866-3840; vhernier.com

UNDER $25,000

BROSNAHAN: KEVIN MAZUR/GETTY ENTERTAINMENT; LIGHT: FRAZER HARRISON/GETTY ENTERTAINMENT

RACHEL BROSNAHAN

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the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

LET’S TALK ABOUT WAX

With her signature cast-not-set creations, London-born Polly Wales builds mini sculptures in satiny gold and bursts of multicolored gems

BY ARI KARPEL

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Heaven’s Cove encrusted skull ring in 18k yellow gold with sapphires and diamonds; $12,100; Polly Wales; enquiries@pollywales. com; pollywales.com

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Spring Villa Single Pagoda necklace in 18k yellow gold with pink sapphires and pearl drop; $12,100

VERYTHING YOU NEED to know about Polly Wales can be found in her yellow gold skull ring studded with candy-colored sapphires.

Equal parts masculine and feminine, barbaric and beautiful, earthy and ethereal, the piece is over the top without taking itself too seriously. Instagrammers call such juxtapositions #roughluxe.

The one-of-a-kind design is the result of an organic collaboration between Wales and her partner, James, who is also the father of their two children. At the time he made the ring, they weren’t working together yet. “He was just…making stuff,” explains Wales. “It’s what James does.” Lucy Peacock, Wales’ lead wax sculptor, had the inspired idea to apply Wales’ signature stones to James’ skull. James gave them his blessing to incorporate the design into their collection.

Ever since she studied jewelry at London’s Royal College of Art, Wales has been experimenting with wax-casting gemstones directly into gold instead of surface-mounting them. This method blurs the boundaries between metal and stone, often with dazzling results. It can seem as if the gems are emerging from cracks in the earth.

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the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

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“I’m a maker. I trained as a jeweler, I trained as a goldsmith, I trained as a sculptor. That’s what I do.”

—Polly Wales

masterpieces. “I would take my stuff to the caster, and they would say, ‘You never brought that piece in,’ or they’d lose pieces. They would kind of disappear things,” she recounts. “It was awful. I just thought, Well, this is my life.” But her jewelry-crafting life took a turn when James offered to learn casting.

These days, James is an essential element of their momand-pop business. Not only does he do all of the casting, he handles their photography and 3D modeling, much of it on some MacGyver’d contraptions of his own design.

“He can kind of do anything he puts his hands to,” says Wales, who wears the original skull ring, the one without the stones, every day.

TRAINING DAYS Wales and James are expat Brits living in Los Angeles. In just a few short years here, they have turned what had been a side hustle into a full-fledged business, Polly Wales Fine Jewelry. Back in London, Wales was selling pieces and getting attention for her designs, but she was supporting the work by lecturing about jewelry at universities and teaching jewelry-making to women in prison. “There was an advert up at college, and it paid more money than anyone ever paid me in my life,” she recalls. “I feel pretty passionately that everyone should learn about how those women got into that position, realize that anyone can fall through the cracks. You don’t have to be some evil kind of person.”

Having a business was never really what Wales imagined for herself. “I make this peculiar jewelry,” she explains, “out of the realm of the expected norm. I used to make things that would end up in German jewelry art books, so having a full-time career making weird jewelry was not something anyone expected. Until now, I never had anything to lose.

It’s always been just about the journey, about taking people on an adventure.”

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La Fontaine necklace in 18k yellow gold with sapphires; $7,700

Des Gouttes de Rosée earrings in 18k yellow gold with sapphires and diamonds; $1,760

Temple King monkey ring in 18k yellow gold with sapphires and diamonds; $39,600

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Petit Coeur de Fantaise necklace in 18k yellow gold with rubies; $5,280

Audouin Shield ring in 18k yellow gold with sapphires and diamonds; $9,240

Celeste Crystal ring in 18k yellow gold with sapphires; $4,180

That adventure began at home. “Lucy’s been with me for five years,” Wales says. “When she started, she was working on the windowsill in my spare room.” I’ll let that sink in for a moment: Her designer’s workspace was a windowsill.

“There were four of us in my spare room,” Wales continues. “I was going to convert the airing cupboard”—in England, that’s the room where the boiler is. “That’s when James said it’s time to move out of the house.”

One day, James and Wales’ mother sat her down at the kitchen table for an intervention of sorts. “It was when my daughter was 1 and I had to go back to work,” she recalls. “James and my mum said, ‘You don’t need another job now, you can do this full time.’ I remember being so scared, sitting at the table crying, saying, ‘What will I do for money?’ ” Like a lot of creative people, Wales wasn’t sure there was anything else she could be doing. “So [with] the money we were saving up to buy a house, we bought a casting machine and some gold, and that was that.”

L.A. STORY “Back in London, we were making jewelry and we were selling it, but it wasn’t a business,” Wales admits. “It was a shitshow. We had no systems. Because I don’t know anything about any of that stuff. I’m a maker. I trained as a jeweler, I trained as a goldsmith, I trained as a sculptor.

That’s what I do.”

Today they are settled in at a penthouse atelier in the Los Angeles Jewelry Mart. One room is devoted to ­designers, seated at proper benches. Another room is Wales’ ­office, and a couple of rooms at the back are where James’ magic happens. Those rooms are chock-full of jury-rigged JCKONLINE.COM

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­ achines: a vacuum pump tied to a mixer and an exercise m vibro plate with a washer. Next to that is a kiln. All of their manufacturing is done in-house.

It’s also unusual to start a business in London and relocate it halfway around the world, a move that Wales justifies this way: “British people spend money on houses; they don’t spend it on jewelry.” Plus, the bulk of her customers—even then—were in the United States.

But why Los Angeles? “Because I love New York.”

Wait, what?

Wales laughs. “No one can live in New York,” she says of the city’s exceedingly high cost of living. “Here we could get the space. And we’ve got two kids, so it felt like L.A. is the place. And there’s a jewelry district!”

Not exactly a ringing endorsement, but Wales says she’s finally coming around to appreciate the quirky, spreadout West Coast city whose gems are often hidden. “Last weekend, we went to this gathering of food trucks that was a tribute to Jonathan Gold,” she says of the beloved restaurant critic of the Los Angeles Times, who recently passed away. “Listening to him talk [on video] kind of consolidated what I know: that Los Angeles is really all these little cities, but when you think about it again, in that context”—of immigrants from all over the world running hole-in-the-wall eateries that Gold famously ­championed—“it becomes quite fascinating instead of just this sprawling mess.”

She’s even amused by how California style has taken hold in London of late. “That seems crazy,” she says. “Everyone is trying to dress like they come from Silver Lake”—the L.A. neighborhood where she lives. “Like, what are you all doing?”

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 Elevated design, timeless collections  Sterling silver beautifully married with 18K  Excellent sell-through results 888-314-5998 www.andreacandela.com

La Romana Collection

HAIR: MOIZ ALLADINA FOR R+CO/WALL GROUP; MAKEUP: CHARLOTTE DAY FOR GLOSSIER/ART DEPARTMENT; MANICURIST: ROSEANN SINGLETON FOR EMILIE HEATHE/ART DEPARTMENT; MODEL: ANABELA BELIKAVA/ ONE MANAGEMENT; HAT: RUSLAN BAGINSKIY/RUSLANBAGINSKIY.COM

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14k yellow gold hand-hammered necklace, $14,600, The Mazza Co., 800-654-3400, mazzajewelry. com; Twist Link chain necklace in 14k yellow and rose gold, $9,800, Nancy Newberg, 866-301-MUSE,

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nancynewberg. com; 14k yellow gold Hampton fashion necklace, $1,865, Gabriel & Co., 212-519-1400, gabrielny.com; rose gold ring with 0.55 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,640, Etho Maria, 786-369-0485, ethomaria.com

FEATURES Photograph by Diego Uchitel

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F R O M M U S T - H AV E H O O P S T O WEAR-WITH-EVERY THING CHAINS, THIS SEASON’S GOLD J E W E L S W I L L G I V E Y O U T H AT WA R M - A L L - O V E R G L OW

Colony VIII ring in 18k yellow gold and silver with 3.35 cts. t.w. multicolored diamonds, $18,040, Vram, 310-8599545, vramjewelry. com; Lusso tennis bracelet in 14k yellow gold with 0.38 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,760, Gabriel & Co., 212-519-1400, gabrielny.com;

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Olimpia 14k yellow gold large hoop earrings, $2,600, GiGi Ferranti Jewelry, info@ gigiferrantijewelry. com, gigiferranti jewelry.com; Flat Dots necklace in 14k yellow gold, $8,850, Established, 646-745-6831, established jewelry.com

Photography by Diego Uchitel Stylist Sandy Armeni Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi

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Iconica earrings in 18k rose gold, $3,960, Pomellato, 800-254-6020, pomellato.com; Aura Italian diamond necklace in 18k yellow and white gold with 2.57 cts. t.w. diamonds, $15,775, Herco, 415-543-1580, herco. com; 14k yellow gold ring with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,125, I. Reiss, 800-7347726, ireiss.com; Lucia stacking band in 14k yellow gold, $750, GiGi Ferranti Jewelry, info@ gigiferrantijewelry. com, gigiferranti jewelry.com; Demure bangle in 14k yellow and white gold with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,410, tennis bracelet in 14k yellow and white gold with 0.68 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,500, 14k yellow and white gold bangle bracelet with 0.43 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,400, Gabriel & Co., 212519-1400, gabrielny. com; Popcorn oval link bracelet in 14k yellow gold, $1,495, Phillip Gavriel, 800-622-0960, royalchain.com; Sinc kinetic ring in 18k gold, $6,800, Vram, 310-859-9545, vramjewelry.com

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Large Rhodes necklace in 10k yellow gold with 0.06 ct. t.w. opals, $3,900, Wwake, wholesale@wwake. com, wwake.com; gold-plated brass Vasa earrings, $138, Minoux Jewelry, 503-928-2423, minouxjewelry.com

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Disc hoop earrings in 14k yellow gold, $4,300, Established, 646-745-6831, establishedjewelry. com; graduated bead necklace in 14k yellow gold, $5,600, Royal Chain, 800-622-0960, royalchain.com; Giunco bracelet in 18k yellow gold and diamonds, $61,900, Vhernier, 646-8663840, vhernier.com; large Cigar Band ring in 14k yellow gold with white diamonds, $6,800, Emily P. Wheeler, 646-745-6831, emilypwheeler.com

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(P. 62) TOP: ALEXANDER WANG/ALEXANDERWANG.COM; (P. 63) TOP: DOLCE & GABBANA/DOLCEGABBANA.COM; (P. 64–65) TOP: GIVENCHY/ GIVENCHY.COM; (P. 66) HAT: ELLEN CHRISTINE COUTURE/ELLENCHRISTINECOUTURE.COM, DRESS: RAT & BOA/RATANDBOA.COM

18k yellow gold Cubist Box drop earrings with teal tourmalines, $8,640, Rush Jewelry, 212-219-3793, rushjewelrydesign. com; Classic Link necklace in 14k yellow gold, $4,250, Ariel Gordon, 213-488-2618, arielgordonjewelry. com; vintage chain in 14k yellow gold with diamond Foundation charm, $4,500, Harwell Godfrey, 646-745-6831, harwellgodfrey.com; Bigo collection 14k gold ring, $5,000, Roberto Bravo, sales@ robertobravo.com, robertobravo.com

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Oro Classic earrings in 18k yellow gold, $1,750, Roberto Coin, 212-486-4545, robertocoin.com; Hera necklace in 18k yellow gold, $39,928, Maxior, 55-11-3105-4292, maxior.com.br; Hexa 18k yellow gold– plated brass ring, $125, Lozenge 18k yellow gold–plated brass cuff, $400, Louven, contact@ louvendesign.com, louvendesign.com

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SPOTLIGHT

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N CYC L E IS THE FALLING PRICE OF GOLD A CRISIS, AN OPPORTUNITY, OR A DRAW? B y K r i s t i n Yo u n g

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18k yellow gold Lente ring with diamond accent; $675; Trésor Collection; info@ tresorcollection.com; tresorcollection.com

Bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 3.95 cts. t.w. champagne diamonds; $14,500; Sylva & Cie; 213-488-1444; sylvacie.com

Stockholm Crosswire open-back ring in 22k hammered gold with 0.19 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,970; Lika Behar; 201-933-7200; likabehar.com

PREVIOUS SPREAD: DAN FORBES/TRUNK ARCHIVE

N THE SUMMER of 2011, the price of gold shot to an all-time high of $1,900.30 per ounce. Most of us can remember the feeding frenzy that had been going on since prices ­began to rise in 2008: Cash-for-gold businesses sprouted up like mushrooms a­ fter a thunderstorm, jewelry owners across the country hosted cocktail parties to trade in unwanted baubles for extra spending m ­ oney, and investors, considering gold a fantastic hedge against debt issues in the United States and Europe, dove right in.

Back then, many pundits called the spike a bubble and, indeed, it was. Today, the gold price hovers around $1,200—not nearly as attractive to investors as the strong dollar or the surging U.S. stock market. In fact, within the past six months, the price of gold has decreased 13 percent from a high of $1,353.20 in March to a low of $1,173.70 in August, according to Kitco, which tracks daily prices.

Which raises the question: How is the falling price of gold ­affecting fine jewelry and the industry at large?

First, some background: Aside from our innate attraction to its shiny allure—ask any infant who instinctively grabs his ­mother’s hoop earrings—gold has been used as funerary adornments for pharaohs of ancient Egypt, served as currency for the ancient Greeks and Romans, and, beginning in 1792, directly backed the U.S. dollar (along with silver). All of that ended in 1971, when President Richard Nixon halted the dollar’s international convertibility to gold, along with its fixed exchange rate of $35 an ounce, and let it float freely. The idea was to prevent an international sell-off of foreign-held U.S. dollars for gold and stave off domestic inflation. But it became known as the “Nixon Shock” felt by everyone in fine jewelry.

Mark Clodius, who along with his wife, Monika, owns Clodius & Co. in Rockford, Ill., was just starting out as a ­jewelry-maker in the 1970s and remembers the price of gold soaring to hundreds of dollars within the decade. “I remember the headlines,” he recalls. “They asked, ‘Who will ever buy gold again?’ ” In the end, however, gold maintained its importance as it has for centuries; prices have fluctuated based upon world events ever since.

Cut to today. David Govett, head of precious metals at Marex Spectron, a London-based commodity broker, explains the lackluster interest in gold on the part of the investment community like this: “The demand for gold traditionally goes down as the [U.S.] dollar goes up,” he says. “If the dollar goes down, the more money gold pulls in. There is general disappointment in gold as an investment. There was a lot of saber rattling at the beginning of the year—Russia, Korea, President Trump—[saying] gold is considered a safe haven in times of uncertainty. But as we all know, the U.S. economy is on track, and gold has really given people no reason to want to invest in it. You can find better ­places to put your money.”

The investment community is one thing. But when it comes to the fine jewelry industry, that’s another. What we know, so far, is that falling gold prices have claimed one sector as a casualty: cashfor-gold businesses. Steve Madar, director of gold buyer TruVal, located in the Diamond District in New York City, estimates that

Megan locket in 14k gold with emeralds and diamonds; $4,100; My Story Fine Jewelry; concierge@mystory finejewelry.com; mystoryfinejewelry.com

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71 Large 18k gold pavé Tree of Life pendant with 1.782 cts. t.w. diamonds; $19,500; Temple St. Clair; 212-219-8664; templestclair.com Large rainbow moonstone Nona earrings in recycled 22k gold; $4,180; Prounis; sales@ prounisjewelry.com; prounisjewelry.com

Stardust cuff in 14k yellow gold with 3.18 cts. t.w. diamonds; $10,000; Meredith Marks; 888-413-5077; meredithmarks.com

Grass Fence ring in 18k yellow gold with emeralds; $5,235; Ileana Makri; artemis@ rainbowwave.com; ileanamakri.com

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80 percent of his cash-for-gold competitors have gone out of business in the years since gold prices have leveled off. “In August of 2011, there were lines out the door, and we weren’t the only ones,” he recalls. “But it became obvious to me that if competitors were not 100 percent focused, they would disappear.”

Madar says he has been able to stay in business by giving customers superior value to ensure their repeat business—even at the risk of making less profit. And diversifying into loose ­diamonds, silverware, luxury watches, and designer jewelry has made gold is less of a make-or-break commodity for TruVal. According to anecdotal evidence from fine jewelry retailers across the country, the falling price of gold has had little effect on their businesses, either adversely or favorably. Jewelers explain that when you factor in labor and manufacturing costs, the price of the material itself is perhaps a quarter of the cost of each individual piece. So, even if the price of gold fluctuates by a few hundred dollars over the course of months, the end result for retailers is negligible. Moreover, retailers report they aren’t adjusting prices.

“I don’t ever re-mark [gold] jewelry,” says Bill Bennion, owner of Bennion Jewelers in Salt Lake City. “Unless it goes up skyhigh, I won’t regulate it a heck of a lot.” Customers have been buying gold earrings, bracelets, and chains, Bennion adds, but demand for gold is dormant compared with such staples as stackable diamond rings and inside-out diamond hoops.

Consumers aren’t radically altering their gold-purchasing ­activity either. “It hasn’t affected us, and consumers are not aware,” says Ashley Stegall, marketing coordinator of Peoria, Ill.– based Bremer Jewelry (and daughter of owners Craig and Ronda Daily). “No one has walked in asking about it. Our pricing has not changed really. We do our own mix of custom-made, repairs, and branded jewelry like Hearts On Fire, Le Vian, and Shinola that places value on design rather than its weight in gold.”

Clodius, who’s in the business of buying and selling gold, says, if anything, he has seen business cool off in the past few years.

“We were doing millions of dollars’ worth of volume, and now we’re doing hundreds of thousands,” he says, noting customers are primarily interested in white gold. “That’s still a good business,” he adds. “The best thing is to have prices relatively steady, and we’re not seeing wild price fluctuations.”

Aaron Peñaloza, co-owner of C. Aaron Peñaloza Jewelers in San Antonio, also sees a waning interest in gold on the part of consumers. “Gold is still expensive for what people are willing to spend,” he says. “You could buy a motorcycle for the amount that you’d pay for a gold necklace and matching bracelet. Young people don’t put as much importance in jewelry as their parents did. They didn’t grow up wanting it. The gold jewelry we are selling to young people is pretty lightweight, and a lot are buying silver. But maybe that’s a way to ease them into it.”

Milton Pedraza, founder and CEO of the Luxury Institute in New York City, agrees that jewelers are not dropping prices, while some are enjoying healthy sales growth. “There’s demand for gold jewelry out there,” he says. “It’s not crazy, but it’s solid enough.

And people are going to enjoy the margins while they last.”

In the end, whether prices soar or plummet, interest ebbs or flows, history tells us gold will continue to hold sway over ­humanity. “Gold will always retain its allure,” Govett says. “If I bought my wife a copper bracelet as opposed to a gold bracelet, I don’t think she’d be happy with me.”

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SK ANY GROUP of American kids what they want to be when they grow up, and a few are bound to shout out, “YouTuber!”

The popularity of the internet’s most powerful video platform (and its superstars) among Gen Zers and millennials has eclipsed that of all o­ ther social media sites, streaming services such as Netflix and Amazon Prime, and even TV. In May 2018, YouTube parent company Google reported that the social network had 1.8 billion monthly active users. That’s more than Gmail (which has roughly 1.4 billion active users) and just behind Facebook, the biggest social network in the world, which has approximately 2.2 billion active users.

For today’s youth and young adults, streaming video is huge. As a culture, we watch more than a billion hours of YouTube videos a day. And according to a recent study by comScore, audiences are around 10 times more likely to ­engage, embed, share, and comment on video content than on static photos and other types of social posts.

Big consumer brands know all of this, of course. Which is why 61 of the top 100 brands now embed YouTube videos on their websites, according to comScore. Major jewelry and watch brands such as Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and Rolex all have a presence on the platform, most showcasing big-budget videos that they also repurpose as actual ads.

But fortunately, YouTube is a fairly egalitarian tool. Small brands and retailers have ample opportunity to capture audiences—not through pristine cinematography, but by posting useful, shareable, and/or hyperlocal content. That’s because YouTube isn’t Instagram; users typically don’t visit the platform purely for pretty visuals—they’re looking to learn, verify, and discover, not marinate in artsy camera angles.

“The best thing is, you don’t have to have a crazy professional camera or production setup to produce great content,” says Stephanie Cartin, cofounder and co-CEO of New York City–based social media agency Socialfly. “You can use an iPhone and apps to make some really cool videos: how-tos, behind-the-scenes content, videos that showcase partnerships with influencers. All these low-cost content types can deliver measurable results. You can really establish your brand’s personality, and build trust and recognition on YouTube.”

Ready to get going on the video network? Keep these ­realities in mind:

USEFUL EQUALS POPULAR YouTube is the internet’s second-largest search engine and is owned by the web’s largest search engine, Google. So brands and retailers who post regularly to the social network rank higher in search queries in both engines.

One way to create content that rakes in views (which, in

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In May 2018, YouTube had 1.8 billion monthly active users. That’s just behind Facebook, the biggest social network in the world.

a perfect world, builds your brand’s social equity and reputation) is to create videos that answer popular queries—e.g., “how to clean your engagement ring” or “how to size your finger without a ring sizer.”

Videos that answer common questions, and are labeled and tagged properly for searches, are all but guaranteed to be found by users.

Jewelry influencer and e-commerce retailer Danielle Miele, founder of the popular jewelry website Gem Gossip and its well-followed Instagram feed (@gemgossip), says her most-viewed YouTube video, “How to Clean Gold Jewelry With Gem Gossip,” was the result of researching common jewelry-related searches, then creating and tagging the video for maximum views.

The video’s evergreen subject matter means users will be bumping into her video for years to come. “You should definitely strive to create content that’s relevant no matter what,” says the influencer, who’s since created a well-viewed video on how to clean jewelry with an ultrasonic cleaner. “I found out it was something people search for all the time.”

PAY-TO-PLAY IS A GOOD WAY

COURTESY OF BRANDS

Optimizing videos for search “is the name of the game with YouTube,” says Jonathan Miller, a freelance social media consultant and founder of Brooklyn-based music agency Pancakes and Whiskey.

Miller even offers clients a step-by-step plan for getting videos viewed and ranked well (this plan involves a small investment, but there are no effective social strategies that don’t these days).

“Let’s say you sell engagement rings for people on a budget, and you’ve made videos highlighting your products,” he says. “If you go to YouTube and search ‘engagement rings on a budget,’ you’ll see that the top videos on page 1 have around 10,000 to 100,000 views. You can buy ads for your video for cheap.” One view typically comes out to 1 to 2 cents per view, so for $200 you could buy around 20,000 views, Miller adds.

“The chances of these paid views converting to sales are slim, but now you’ve gotten 20,000 views,” he says. “And YouTube will reward your video with better search rankings.” When users search “engagement rings on a budget,” your video actually shows up, and you start racking up ­organic views at a faster clip.

But bear in mind that none of that works if you haven’t tagged your content properly for search engine optimization. “It’s important that you identify key words you’re looking to target and use them in your video’s title,” Cartin says.

“Then repeat those words in the text and in the script. You’ll find your ranking goes up, and you’ll get more views if you do those things every time.”

NO NETWORK IS AN ISLAND Your YouTube channel should never be a stand-alone entity.

Instead, ensure that the content you post on the platform is tethered in various ways to your other social sites, Miller explains.

“YouTube is great because it allows for longer-form content; for companies looking to explain their products or services, having full versions of longer videos on YouTube is great,” Cartin adds. “But you should also cross-promote that content onto your other channels. You can create a shorter version of the video to post on Facebook or Instagram that links back to the longer video.”

That free-flowing mentality also applies to potential partnerships with other brands, influencers, and content-makers for potential grist for your YouTube feed.

“A great way to find a following on YouTube is to find those niche influencers in your area and build relationships with them,” says Cartin, who’s seen small brands with no video experience produce beautiful content courtesy of ­camera-savvy influencers they’ve teamed with for short-term campaigns.

“These people have the ability to produce high-quality video and are looking to expand the portfolio of brands they work with,” she says. “The results can be really amazing.”

Must-See Jewelry YouTube Channels

1

Tiffany & Co. This Tiffany Blue–

swathed treasure trove of videos showcases the brand’s many collections through the art of short filmmaking. Its polished clips include interviews with influencers and tastemakers both legendary (Vogue’s Grace Coddington and Lady Gaga) and young and cool (dancer Fik-Shun and actress Zoë Kravitz).

2

IWC Schaffhausen: The watch

brand has invested in video big-time, and it shows: how-tos on watch winding and other care-related topics, ongoing series (including the celebrity-interview #IWCTalks), and behind-the-scenes videos at events including the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie and the Cannes Film Festival.

3

Gemologue: Globe-trotting

jewelry influencer Liza Urla, aka Gemologue, posts beautifully captured vlogs (video blogs) and snippets of her endeavors in the fine jewelry world—e.g., her favorite pieces from a Sotheby’s auction and collection previews with designers.

4

Hublot: Swiss watchmaker

5

Hublot maintains an engaging feed documenting the brand’s partnerships—particularly its adventures as a sponsor of soccer’s governing body, FIFA. Videos include watch reveals, behind-the-scenes clips from Baselworld and the World Cup, and quickie interviews with world-class athletes.

Bulgari. Much like Tiffany, Bulgari

is banking on creative and eyecatching (and high-budget) video.

Popular videos include a four-minute documentary about the history of Bulgari, a beautiful animated featurette on giftable holiday items, and an ode to the 70th anniversary of its iconic Tubogas designs.

YouTube clips and pics: 1. A collection of GemGossip’s figas pendants; 2. An IWC ad starring Bradley Cooper; 3. A diamond polisher in Gaborone from a YouTube video by Forevermark; 4, 9. Videos by Bulgari on their Serpenti Tubogas timepieces; 5. From Hearts On Fire’s video The Evolution of the Perfect Diamond; 6. GemGossip gives a peek at the book Fancy Color Diamonds: The Pricing Architecture; 7. DJ Paul Oakenfold at Hublot’s FIFA World Cup closing party; 8. Supermodel Doutzen Kroes in a new Piaget campaign; 10. Olympic sprinter Usain Bolt, Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, DJ Snake, and singer Julian Perretta showing off their Hublot watches at the FIFA World Cup Finals

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SECONDHAND NEWS

BU Y I N G A N D S E L L I N G P R E - OW N E D J EW E L RY I S A L U C R AT I V E B U S I N E S S T H AT C O U L D COMPLEMENT YOUR CONTEMPORARY S A L E S — A S LO N G A S YO U K N OW W H AT Y O U ’ R E D O I N G

STEPHEN LEWIS/ART AND COMMERCE

By Martha C. White

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were in use when? In what era were certain stonecutting HEN IT COMES to techniques developed?); and an eye trained to recognize jewelry and watches, used details that indicate if a piece is, for instance, from the doesn’t have the same pejoVictorian, Edwardian, or Art Nouveau period. rative connotation as it does Art Deco bracelets with combined 70 Buying over the counter—that is, from the public—can with other categories of concts. t.w. diamonds in platinum; price on yield high margins for jewelers who do so strategically. “When sumer goods like cars or clothrequest; Provident Jewelry; 561-747we’re buying, we’re wholesalers; when we’re selling, we’re retailers,” ing. The secondhand market can 4449; providentjewelry.com says Don Walsh, estate buying manager at Waterbury, Conn.–based be creatively satisfying and financially Michaels Jewelers. lucrative for jewelers, but it does demand an Jewelers who buy pre-owned jewelry OTC find that many of the items they see investment in time, effort, and education. do not qualify as estate jewelry. Walsh says with most of the contemporary pieces customers come in hoping to sell, the only inherent value is in the material itself.

THE TERMINOLOGY: WORDS TO KNOW “We see an awful lot of jewelry coming from online and TV channels and major For a neophyte, the terms used to describe this catchains, and a lot of it we can only buy for gold value.” egory can seem confusing. But not even the experts Buying and selling pre-owned watches can be especially tricky, Walsh says. In are consistent in how they use the terminology. general, he and other experienced jewelers know it’s best to stick to timepieces The broad catchall terms are pre-owned and secondin good working order. “We try to be careful with watches because the upkeep hand, which refer to both contemporary and older of them could get costly because they’re such complicated movements,” he says. pieces. These two words sometimes are conflated with the term estate jewelry, but some experts prefer to reserve that term for secondhand goods with a high degree of rarity, refinement, and provenance.

SELLING: WHERE, WHEN, AND HOW “Today, estate tends to mean jewelry with a history, provenance, a brand Each of the 10 Michaels Jewelers stores has a display case dedicated to estate name, a signed piece that can be researched,” says Andrew Block, presjewelry, but the big sales driver is a series of semiannual trunk shows. ident and partner at TrueFacet, an online platform for pre-owned “When you send them an invitation to come to this e­ state show jewelry and watch sales. that’s only two times a year, it does create a sense of u ­ rgency for Some pros use the estate label for all old, pre-owned customers to come in,” Walsh says. ­jewelry, while others switch to the term antique to desigEstate jewelry experts say the way to transform cusnate pieces more than 100 years old. tomer interest into sales is making sure your sales staff Vintage is another term that can mean some, or all, of is familiar with the major periods popular with ­estate the above. “Vintage started out just referring to somejewelry collectors, and the materials, styles, and shapes thing previously owned,” Block says. “As the supply emblematic of those stylistic eras. “You’d want them to changed from truly vintage to more contemporary, we be versed in certainly the different periods of jewelry, just called it pre-owned.” different historical periods,” Colasacco says.

While there isn’t a standard curriculum, per se, estate 18k white gold Butterfly brooch with 6.23 specialists cite a number of sources that can deliver some of BUYING: BUILDING A SPECIALIZED SKILL cts. t.w. diamonds; price on request; this education. “The best resource can be a brand itself or the Buying estate jewelry is a highly specialized skill, and there Beneficial Estate Buyers auction houses,” Block says. Auction catalogs published by big isn’t an industry standard for learning how to do it well. Experts names like Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Skinner are packed with descripJCK spoke with honed their craft over years, sometimes decades, tions, photos, provenance, and prices, and top brands like Tiffany & Co. and ­often acquiring their knowledge as it was passed down through generations.

Cartier have a wealth of information available about their respective histories.

“I always had my dad [co-owner Jim Rosenheim] as a mentor,” says Matthew Conferences and shows also provide important education. “A big antique show is Rosenheim, co-owner and president of Washington, D.C.’s Tiny Jewel Box. “We a great laboratory,” Rosenheim says. “If I was a retail salesperson, I’d want to look at looked at workmanship and craftsmanship, the type of stones.” books, too, but there’s nothing that substitutes for touching and feeling the jewelry The ability to evaluate the authenticity of precious metals and gemstones is the itself and talking to educated dealers.” most important skill when buying estate jewelry, with the expertise to authenAlong with an educated staff, the other key ingredient to a successful sale is ticate the designer running a close second. “Today, there are a huge amount of ­emphasizing the history and unique nature of the piece your customer is buying. reproductions out there and signatures that are not kosher, and those are tricky “It’s not new jewelry that everyone else is going to have,” Colasacco says. “What we waters to navigate,” Rosenheim says. “It takes some experience.” always explain to our clients is that there’s a romance about these pieces—they have Beyond that, most of the value in estate jewelry is in the style and brand name, history. There’s a depth to them, there’s something fascinating about them.” which makes valuing these pieces as much about art as science, says John Colasacco, Estate jewelry also can appeal to consumers who want to wear ethically specialist in the fine jewelry department at Boston-based auction house and sustainably sourced jewelry. “It’s one of the best ways of recycling; Skinner: “Once you figure out what you’ve got and then figure out you’re not mining anything because it’s already been mined,” where it’s from and all the pieces, you put it together. It’s a little ­Colasacco says. “People are very aware of that these days.” puzzle, and it’s not always so simple.”

And unlike many contemporary pieces that online comIf you want to get into the estate market, experts advise petitors can sell, undercutting brick-and-mortar retailers having one or two employees who specialize in the caton price, estate jewelry can’t be commoditized. That’s the egory act as buyers; you simply won’t be able to equip most valuable attribute of all. Says Rosenheim: “It’s nice your ­entire sales staff with the required depth of knowlto be selling one-of-a-kind items because if a client falls edge. An astute buyer needs a foundation of gemolog18k yellow gold earrings with 4.26 cts. t.w. diamonds; in love with it, there’s not another one.” ical knowledge; historical knowledge (Which metals price on request; Beneficial Estate Buyers; 800-5181137; beneficialestatebuyers.com

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BIG MISTAKE. BIG. HUGE!

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SIX COMMON HIRING MISSTEPS JEWELRY R E TA I L E R S W O U L D B E W I S E T O AV O I D

b y D a n i e l P. S m i t h

HEN IT COMES to hiring, a sore spot for many jewelry retailers across the country, Susan Priolo of Sofia Jewelry in Mill Valley, Calif., considers herself fortunate.

While Priolo admits she once had trouble finding staff who supported her family-owned store’s mission, those days have largely passed.

With a capable and engaged team, Sofia Jewelry is thriving.

“Our business is growing under the leadership of our son and daughter in ways that we could not have imagined when we opened in 1994,” Priolo says.

Of course, not all jewelry shops are so lucky. From unreliable, culture-draining sales associates to uncompromising designers, many jewelry retailers can swap horror stories of poor hires—though it need not be so.

1. HIRING OUT OF DESPERATION

Far too often, retailers hire out of desperation, eager to ­simply fill the position so they can remove the task from their to-do list. But a rushed hire might not share the same values, work ethic, or commitment to the customer that’s necessary in the store, and that can prove damaging.

“You can’t just get a warm body,” says James Gattas, ­owner of Memphis, Tenn.–based James Gattas Jewelers. “It’s so important to hire someone who has the necessary qualifications and energy.”

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While rushing to bring in new staff “may lead to a shortterm fix, there are longer-term implications, such as a threat to customer service and loss of business,” says Bob Lockett, division vice president of human resources for ADP, a leading provider of HR management software and services.

One savvy practice: Always be on the lookout for talent.

By consistently accepting applications and interviewing prospective employees, stores can gain a roster of candidates to contact when the need arises.

2. CONSIDERING THE RÉSUMÉ ALONE Over the past three decades, Brad Lawrence, owner of Gold Casters Fine Jewelry in Bloomington, Ind., has hired some individuals who struggled to succeed in his store despite their impressive résumés.

“They just didn’t have the ‘servant mentality’ that comes from the heart,” Lawrence says.

While it can be beneficial to select staff members with industry experience and credentials, Lockett says small-­ business owners too often hire talent for the wrong reasons, and that misstep can spark a disappointing experience for both the new employee and the retailer. “While e­ mployers should hire for will and skill as required, many times o­ wners look at the job qualifications rather than the potential ­employee’s will to deliver exceptional service, the will to treat colleagues and customers with respect, and the will to live by a set of values and principles.”

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“Consider the following when hiring friends and family: Do they share the same passion for the business? Could there be difficulty in terminating their employment if needed?” —Bob Lockett, ADP

to multilayered personality tests designed specifically to assess the individual’s character and basic skills.

“We need to play that devil’s advocate role and make sure the person is who we need for our business,” Gattas explains.

In an effort to more fully vet candidates in advance of extending an ­ employment offer, George Press Jewelers brings them into its 2,500-square-foot store to work a paid shift. Press says this allows leadership to see how the prospective employees engage customers, take initiative, and interact with current staff. “Someone can interview well, but it’s a different ball game when you have a day or two to ­observe them firsthand. Ours is a small store, and bringing a new hire on board needs to work for everyone.”

5. TOO FREELY HIRING FAMILY AND FRIENDS 3. LOOKING FOR REPLICAS Business owners are often drawn to employees “who look and behave like us,” admits Mark Ginsberg of Iowa City, Iowa–based M.C. Ginsberg. He’s learned, however, that such narrow-minded thinking limits one’s ability to pull in different personalities and skill sets that can enhance the business.

“When you have diverse, communicative, and unique personalities, you will distinguish your business and have different ways to approach a challenge,” Ginsberg says. “You don’t want a one-dimensional space.”

In the interview process at George Press Jewelers in Livingston, N.J., co-owner Cheryl Press similarly investigates what a candidate can add to the team, whether that’s proven sales skills, appraisal acumen, or CAD experience.

“I’ll measure a candidate’s strengths against what we need and what we already have on our team,” Press says.

FRANK MASI/© CBS/EVERETT

4. TAKING RECOMMENDATIONS AT FACE VALUE

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Gattas confesses that some of his worst hires have come from personal recommendations. Viewing his 22-year-old store as a pleasant, positive place to work, employees, family, and colleagues have all shared glowing personal referrals with the jeweler. Some have worked out; others haven’t, and in those cases Gattas admits he should have seen the warning signs.

Gattas now digs far below the surface of potential ­recruits—employing tools ranging from background checks

In the jewelry industry, where many businesses are family-owned affairs, stores can tend to rely heavily on ­ ­family and friends for staffing. Beware, cautions Lockett.

“While there are circumstances that can result in a positive situation,” Lockett says, “small-business owners should consider the following when hiring friends and family: Do they share the same passion for the business? Could there be difficulty in terminating their employment if needed?

Would the relationship be in jeopardy if this friend and/or family member needed to be terminated?”

6. OVERLOOKING “MOLDABLE” CANDIDATES Years ago, Ginsberg says, he overwhelmingly favored seasoned candidates who possessed deep industry knowledge.

That was a mistake, he acknowledges today, as it led him to overlook compelling prospects who were raw yet willing to learn about his “deconstructed jewelry environment.”

Similarly, Lawrence isn’t shy about taking a chance on individuals with no industry experience. In fact, he often prefers a clean-slate candidate, particularly if the individual demonstrates a genuine passion for helping and interacting with others.

“Teaching people the basics of jewelry is the easy part,” Lawrence says.

And while Lawrence knows many jewelers hesitate to ­invest time and energy in young people in particular, he ­urges otherwise. “It’s true that a young person might not be with us for 30 years,” he adds, “but they can more than pay for themselves with the enthusiasm and vibrancy they bring to the showroom and the business.”

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HOT

T O P I

FOR 2019

C S

WE LOOKED INTO OUR (ROCK) CRYSTAL BALL TO PREDICT NEXT YEAR’S BIGGEST GEMS AND TRENDS

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1

SESQUICENTENNIAL SALUTE

When JCK marks its 150th anniversary next year, the celebration will be about a lot more than a self-congratulatory pat on the back. We’ve long held that the history of this publication—­ founded in 1869 as the American Horological Journal before merging with various trade magazines, including The Jewelers’ Circular and Keystone, to form Jewelers’ Circular–Keystone, shortened in the 1990s to JCK—is the history of the jewelry trade in America. The yearlong retrospective we have planned will culminate with a special September/October issue highlighting not only the editorials and advertisements that impressed us then and still do, but the myriad ways in which the industry has evolved (or not). Get ready to chill the Champagne! —VICTORIA GOMELSKY

1935 COVER: COURTESY OF GIA

BEAUTY 2 SHOP

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Instagram’s conversion rates are the envy of every other social platform. Users are often there to shop, and as a result, 65 percent of top-performing Instagram posts feature products, according to data firm L2. This year, after years of restricting website access to the single link in the profile, the Facebook-owned network introduced the Swipe Up feature for business accounts with 10,000-plus followers, allowing retailers to link directly to product pages in the Stories mode. Next, the platform is set to debut a stand-alone shopping app that would live separately from Instagram. It would allow users to browse and buy products from sellers they follow—directly from photos and descriptions. Great news for jewelry retailers, who peddle some of Instagram’s tastiest eye candy. —EMILI VESILIND Relic Chandelier earrings with faceted glass stones, gold-plated flower and hand charms, green jade drops, and mother-of-pearl tops; $530; Lizzie Fortunato; 212-7771008; lizziefortunato.com

3

STATE OF FAIRS

T

here’s no denying that trade fairs are in a state of flux. In 2019, JCK Las Vegas will not only revert to its traditional date pattern—opening May 31, the Friday after Memorial Day—but, after an eight-year stint at Mandalay Bay, the show and its sister event, Luxury, are returning to where it all started, the Sands Expo and the Venetian, just in time to ring in the latter’s 20th anniversary. Meanwhile, other shows are struggling to reconcile their positioning in an increasingly digital marketplace. Baselworld, which recently lost Swatch Group as an exhibitor, is contemplating radical new measures to cope with a steep decline in attendance, while the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva is experimenting with a more consumer-facing format. The changing landscape promises at least one thing: in the words of Yancy Weinrich, senior vice president of Reed Jewelry Group, “fresh beginnings.” —VG

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BLUE GEM BABY This summer, when JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky took a dip in the Adriatic, she remarked that the water was the color of paraiba tourmaline. And she’s not the only one who looks at the waves and sees gems. Sirciam practically floods its Instagram with “oceancolor” opals and tourmalines. Judi Powers touts “ocean blue” Peruvian opal, turquoise, apatite, tourmaline, and beryl necklaces. And Theresa Kaz is over the moon when it comes to just about any blue. “The depth of the steely blue” of London blue topaz, she says, makes her think of the North Atlantic. “Tanzanite and iolite remind me of the violet-blue ethereal skies over the ocean at sunset on the East Coast,” she adds. “I love the language that blue gemstones speak.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Sunburst drop earrings with moonstones, tapered tanzanite baguettes, diamonds, and paraiba quartz drops in 18k yellow gold; $4,400; Theresa Kaz Jewelry; theresa@ theresakazjewelry.com; theresakazjewelry.com

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GROWING GAINS When companies first began producing lab-grown diamonds, they were mostly yellows and greens. Then manufacturers figured out how to profitably create colorless stones, which form the bulk of the natural market and soon became the bulk of the lab-grown market. But one benefit of the man-made process is that growers can produce colored gems that otherwise would be unaffordable to the average person. While high-quality natural pinks and blues sell for thousands of dollars or more, De Beers, through its Lightbox subsidiary, is now selling lab-grown versions for hundreds.

(The company has hinted that greens are coming soon.) And Japanese grower Pure Diamond Coin says it’s trying to produce gems of multiple colors—what it calls “rainbow” diamonds. It looks like the lab market is about to get a lot more colorful. —ROB BATES 1.25 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamond earrings; round fancy vivid purplish-pink lab-grown diamond; round 1.24 ct. fancy intense blue lab-grown diamond; cushion fancy vivid yellow lab-grown diamond; prices on request; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com

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RETAIL, UNMOORED

The days of 10-year leases for retail spaces are over. As brick-and-mortar retailing contracts across the United States, brands have been looking for alternatives to the stagnant storefront that allow for greater improvisation and quick course corrections. Jewelry and watch brands including Alexis Bittar, Miansai, and Oris go where the action is— Coachella, flea markets, breweries, etc.—in Airstreams and other custom vehicles that double as mini-stores. (Pictured here: the Bittar bus.) Millennial-owned AUrate debuted pop-ups in Boston, Washington, D.C., and New York City before turning all three into permanent stores with flexible leases. And an influx of communal/kiosk spaces such as hipster markets (think Artists & Fleas and Flying Solo in NYC) are offering brands a way to do brick-and-mortar without the crushing overhead costs. Short-term investments for long-term gains? Sign us up! —EV

8

HOOP IT UP Antique yellow gold double hound’s head bangle; $5,800; Broken English Jewelry

JOURNEY TO THE PAST 7 Looking for a way to avoid the “What’s new?” trap at your retail store? It might be time to bring in something old. Many forward-thinking jewelers are looking back decades to stock their shelves this season and beyond, adding vintage treasures or collectible estate pieces to their contemporary rosters. Department stores have long been in the game, carrying vintage curators like Stephanie Windsor Antiques (Barneys) and Kentshire (Bergdorf Goodman), but independents like New York City– and L.A.–based Broken English are also seeing success with selling charming pre-owned oneoffs that are perfect for gift-giving or a satisfying self-purchase.

—RANDI MOLOFSKY

18k yellow gold ring with pear-shape ruby center and white diamonds in a handmade ribbon crest setting; $3,000; Broken English Jewelry

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What goes around comes around. It’s true of fashion trends, and it’s true, literally, of this season’s hottest accessory trend: the hoop earring. We saw all kinds of them in the New York, London, Paris, and Milan spring-summer 2019 fashion shows: chunky resin hoops (Peter Pilotto); massive ­crescent-style hoops ­(Valentino); chain-link hoops (Adeam); interlocking hoops (Prabal Gurung, Jacquemus); flat disc-style hoops (Derek Lam); triangular hoops (Veronica Beard); squiggly hoops (Sonia Rykiel); sculptural hoops (Rodarte); hoops strung with ­multicolored beads ­(Carolina Herrera), shells (Missoni), feathers (Ulla Johnson), and gleaming gold coins (Dolce & Gabbana). And that’s by no means an ­exhaustive list. With so many varieties on the market, why stop at just one pair? We’ve got two words for you: piercing party. —MRB 2-inch Maeve hoops in silver rhodium–plated brass; $1,150; Jennifer Fisher; 888-255-0640; jenniferfisher jewelry.com

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FAST TRACK Until now, most of the focus on blockchain has been on its potential to track diamonds, through initiatives such as De Beers’ Tracr platform. But we’re seeing industry tech-heads find other uses for the trust-building technology.

In the spring, Richline unveiled TrustChain, a new technology that tracks every element in a ring, from the diamonds to the gold. Everledger is working with Gübelin Gem Lab on Provenance Proof, which offers a way to track colored stones (pictured above), previously thought untraceable.

It’s expected to debut in February. And Chow Tai Fook and GIA have joined forces for a new initiative that will offer virtual reports backed by blockchain.

A Homeland Security official recently told Congress that the applications of blockchain are “limitless”; in the jewelry industry, it certainly seems so. —RB

11/7/18 6:07 PM

LOOK

INSIDE

Take

a look inside

2019 aGTa GemFair™ Tucson.

What you see may unexpectedly surprise you – over 200 AGTA Members showing on the main GemHall floor and over 35 unique designers in the Designer Grand Ballroom.

Our Members are your ethical resource for all links along the jewelry supply chain – mine to market.

Register now at agta.org/register-tucson and join us.

800-972-1162

www. agta.org/register-tucson

info@agta.org

www.agta.org

@agta_gems

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

GONE WEST

TA K E T U C S O N B Y STORM WITH OUR EXPERT ADVICE NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

JCKONLINE.COM

SOLID ROCKS

THE STONES TO S H O P AT G E M W E E K (HINT: THINK TANZANITE)

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LIVING COLOR

10/31/18 4:33 PM

TIM ROARK INC.

COLORED STONES

from the editor iitor o

OFFERING QUALITY AND VALUE SINCE 1974

Red Carpet earrings with 40.08 cts. t.w. tanzanite, 13.7 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 5.1 cts. t.w. blue sapphires in 18k white gold and titanium; price on request; Chopard; 1-880-CHOPARD; chopard.com/us

C

AGTA GEMFAIR TUCSON

IT’S NO SECRET that gemstones are my favorite jewelry category and have been since 2001, when I attended my first Tucson gem week. I was charmed by the vast, diverse, downright strange selection of stones on display, to say nothing of the roguish mix of characters who descend on the Arizona desert every February.

By the time I got home from that trip, schlepping a bag full of sliced agates and a gilded Reclining Buddha statue— purchased from an Afghan rug dealer at the Pueblo Gem & Mineral Show along Interstate 10 and still reclined on my credenza all these years later—I was hooked.

The best thing about Tucson gem week is that it keeps evolving, much like its historic and eclectic host city. The addition of JCK Tucson, which opened at the JW Marriott Starr Pass Resort & Spa in 2014, finally gave gem hunters a designer-led finished jewelry show to pull the week together.

As we look ahead to the 2019 editions of JCK Tucson and the scores of loose-gem shows that run concurrently across town, we’ve assembled some useful info for those of you planning to attend.

We start with “Picks & Stones” on page 88, a forecast feature that helps explain tanzanite’s enduring appeal, the hoopla over Ethiopian emeralds, and why bicolor sapphires are suddenly all the rage.

On page 92, you’ll find “West Pointers,” a collection of tips for shopping the gem shows culled from our favorite designers, by contributor Amy Elliott.

And on page 94, managing editor Melissa Rose Bernardo wraps up this first-ever special section on colored stones with a look at a memorable red-carpet moment starring a killer pair of emerald earrings.

Color us obsessed.

BOOTH #1309 FEB. 5-10

ATL ANTA, GA INFO@TRIMPORTSATL.COM

404.872.8937 WWW.TIMROARKINC.COM

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

olor me excited.

COLORED STONES 88 Pinnacle bracelet with 9 mm tanzanite and 0.44 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $7,250; John Atencio; 720-445-5292; johnatencio.com

PICKS STONES ADD TANZANITE, ETHIOPIAN EMERALDS, AND BICOLOR SAPPHIRES TO YOUR GEM WEEK SHOPPING LIST

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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JCKONLINE.COM

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COLORED STONES 89

Earrings with floral carved tanzanite, diamonds, sapphires, and tsavorite in 18k white and blackened gold; $10,350; Vivaan; 212-3020402; vivaan.us

PURPLE REIGN Since it was discovered in 1968 in the Merelani region of Tanzania, in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro, tanzanite has been something of a shape-shifter in the marketplace.

Introduced to the world by Tiffany & Co., which christened the stone, the gem was initially touted for its rarity and sought after by the finest designers of the time, including Jean Schlumberger and Donald Claflin.

By the late 1980s and ’90s, however, tanzanite had acquired a reputation as a mass-market gem, thanks in large part to the cruise ship industry, which made styles like tanzanite tennis bracelets a staple of the vacationer’s wardrobe.

Today, jewelers remain besotted with tanzanite’s range of colors, from intensely hued purple-violet to a pastel-like lavender. And from the most recent Couture Week in Paris to the aisles of JCK Las Vegas, the stone is once again a designer darling.

Denver-based John Atencio has used the gem since the late 1980s. He attributes his unwavering commitment to the stone, which he prefers to use in deeply saturated trillions, to “the passion and beauty of the color, the price point, and the scarcity of high-quality tanzanite in the market.”

For Lauren Kessler, founder of New York City–based Lauren K Fine Jewelry, tanzanite’s “luxurious and bold” color is why she’s given the gem a permanent place in her collection. “I use JCKONLINE.COM

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Aria ring in 18k rose gold with 5.35 ct. tanzanite and diamonds; $21,500; Lauren K; info@laurenk.com; laurenk.com

it in many variations: gemstones, rose cuts, and beads,” Kessler says. “I like the stone in yellow gold and rose gold. I’ve purchased ­unheated, lighter-colored gemstones and fine, deeper-, richer-hued stones as well.”

Stuart Robertson, JCK contributor and vice president of Gemworld International in Glenview, Ill., says a major reason tanzanite is finding favor among designers, yet has become less sought after by the industry’s mass marketers, is a complicated supply-side dynamic that stems from the Tanzanian government’s recent efforts to clamp down on production in order to prevent smuggling across the border into Kenya.

“They’ve stopped issuing new miner’s permits and broker’s licenses,” he says. “They see it as their national resource and want to see more benefit for their population. So it’s created a real problem.

“A decade and a half ago, you used to see lots of manufacturing in tanzanite, but large companies aren’t willing to make huge investments in a stone that has that much instability,” Robertson continues. “And tanzanite has seen a very sporadic price structure in recent years. Right now, you can buy relatively nice stones for a lot less than a decade ago. At wholesale, really nice material goes from $350 to $425 a carat for 5- to 8-carat stones.”

For a single-source gem that represents arguably the most ­important color find of the 20th century, that can mean only one thing: You snooze, you lose. — VICTORIA GOMELSKY NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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COLORED STONES 90 2.27 ct. and 1.87 ct. Malawi bicolor sapphires from Columbia Gem House

Pillar & Stone’s Roland Schluessel (above r.) with a Karo tribal chief in southern Ethiopia; 9.7 ct. Ethiopian emerald from Shakiso

If the 2018 Tucson gem shows were a Hollywood production, the star would surely have been the Ethiopian emerald, the breakout gem of the season.

Discovered in 2016, in a deposit in the country’s south-central region about 12 miles south of a town called Shakiso, the emeralds have been praised for their bright-green hue. “They often have a bit less color saturation than the Zambian emeralds, which is not a bad thing because very often the Zambians are oversaturated,” says dealer Roland Schluessel, co-owner of Pillar & Stone in San Francisco. “And when you have a little less color, you have a lot of sparkle. The brilliancy of these emeralds is unusually high.”

Opinions differ on how closely the Ethiopians resemble Colombian goods, the standard-bearers in the emerald market. Schluessel, however, is unequivocal: “The look is different,” he says. “The fluorescence in Colombian emerald supercharges its color and adds to its brilliancy. Additionally, Colombian emeralds are found in large sizes; you can have 600-carat stones.

But what was missing from the market was this bright material that is not Colombian, with a significantly lower price that can open a new market—and that’s where Ethiopian comes in. It’s half the price of a comparable Colombian emerald. It wholesales between $500 and $10,000 per carat in sizes up to 10 carats.

But we also have a 30-carat.”

Beyond their bright good looks, Ethiopian gems boast another appealing quality. “Over half of the emeralds do not need oil,” Schluessel says.

After Ethiopian emeralds’ coming-out party in Tucson, the attendant buzz jump-started prices in time for JCK Las Vegas. “In Tucson, they seemed to

be trading 10 to 15 percent below Zambian material, but when we saw them in Vegas, they had reached the level of Zambian with some stones going higher,” says Gemworld International’s Stuart Robertson.

The hoopla over the East African goods reflects the hype surrounding the emerald market in general, according to Robertson. “When gem prices ran up at the beginning of this decade, ruby and sapphire prices went up insanely; emerald did not,” he says. “There’s still a lot of room for emerald prices to climb before the market gets cautious. We see emerald emerging as a very strong seller in 2019.” —VG

BICOLOR CURIOUS? According to a number of sources—and our own observations—the popularity of bicolor sapphires is on the rise among studio designers and small, ­gallery-format stores that cater to millennials.

Eric Braunwart, owner of Columbia Gem House in Vancouver, Wash., a top supplier of bicolor (also known as parti) sapphires, confirms that over the past three years, he and his team have been intentionally cutting the gem to enhance, or call attention to, its inherent bicolor banding or zoning effect.

The timing aligns with what designer Jenifer Thai of IO Collective in Los Angeles recalls about her work with the stone. “I first saw a bicolor sapphire in Tucson four years ago, but I actually didn’t work with it until last year,” she says.

Braunwart says his company’s current, and growing, bicolor sapphire inventory—mainly specimens from Malawi and Montana—is “a response to a ­market that came to us. We’re cutting bicolor sapphire from lots of locations, and do some heat

­treatment to accentuate, not mask, the weaker color.”

The mainstream jewelry industry still largely favors traditional blue sapphires, the majority of which have been heat-treated to make the color appear more uniform and evenly distributed. But Braunwart says the millennial market tends to recast “flaws” as desirable traits, requesting stones that have been cut to highlight, not disguise, inclusions and other natural nuances.

Designers find this kind of material appealing because it offers a way to fulfill demands for one-of-a-kind ­jewelry styles that feel authentic, not cookie-cutter.

And bicolor sapphire is uniquely appealing because it’s more unusual than, say, ametrine or even bicolor tourmaline. Designer Meredith Young is drawn to the blending of “nature’s watercolors, whereby one color bleeds into the other,” she says. “I just bought a pair of geo-cut bicolor Montana sapphires that are small, but with this type of soft, romantic ombré coloration, size doesn’t matter.”

Larger bicolor sapphires are rare and difficult to source. At the most recent American Gem Trade Association Spectrum Awards press preview, attendees were gobsmacked by a 6.78 ct. blue-green beauty— unheated and untreated—from Madagascar in a platinum ring by Southern California–based Lindsay Jane Designs that won a Women’s Jewelry Association Gem Diva Award and Classical-Manufacturing Honors.

If untreated material is your top priority, African and Australian bicolor sapphires require little “assistance” beyond a spectacular cut, dealers say. Also look for lavender-pink bicolor sapphires from Vietnam. “When you add heat to lavender it usually goes blue or pink,” Braunwart says. “So a stone that retains that lavender color is very uncommon.” —AMY ELLIOTT

MALAWI BICOLOR SAPPHIRES: DILLON SPRAGUE FOR COLUMBIA GEM HOUSE

EMERALD CITY

Ring with 6.78 ct. bicolor Madagascar sapphire, diamonds, and white sapphires in platinum; price on request; Lindsay Jane Designs; lj@lindsayjanedesigns. com; lindsayjanedesigns.com

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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Gemstones from all across the world

BGK Graphics

S.P.B CREATIONS / S.P.B. GEMS

212-719-5170 • 888-SPB-GEMS • email:info@spbgems.com • www.spbgems.com

COLORED STONES 92

WEST POINTERS

I

DESIGNERS AND INDUSTRY VETERANS TELL US HOW TO DO TUCSON RIGHT

1. STAY FOCUSED

By Amy Elliott

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

JCK110118_092_CS_TucsonTips.indd 1

N EARLY FEBRUARY, when the world’s gem merchants descend on Tucson to attend some, if not all, of the 47 gem shows taking place concurrently around the Sonoran Desert town (including JCK Tucson, gem week’s lone designer-led finished j­ewelry show), leaving “no stone unturned” is a noble goal. But you’re ­likely to end your gem hunt e­ xhausted, bewildered, and potentially broke. A better plan?

Follow these tips from industry pros who routinely shop this vast terrain with confidence, efficiency, and absolutely zero regrets.

Gemmy stacking rings in brushed 18k gold with diamonds and bezel-set red spinel, rubellite, spessartite, tsavorite, aquamarine, and sapphire; $3,410– $4,950; Suzy Landa; sales@suzylanda. com; suzylanda newyork.com

Set a budget, work from a shopping list, and stick to it as best you can.

“Jumping in headfirst on trending stones can be risky,” notes Rachel Chalchinsky, executive vice president of Color Source Gems, a New York City–based stone dealer that also sells finished jewelry.

And don’t worry about what everyone else is buying—FOMO shouldn’t be your M.O. Take it from NYC–based designer Suzy Landa, who has exhibited her jewelry at JCK Tucson and also spends time walking the gem shows. “I see loads of fellow designers hurrying down the aisles of the shows, and trying to buy ­privately,” she says. “Many seem overly concerned with potential competition for the ‘it’ stone, but that never crosses my mind. The endless supply of gems in Tucson offers ­plenty for everyone.”

18k gold Georgian bezel boulder opal with white diamonds, emerald detail, and 18k gold chain; $6,900; Brooke Gregson; 310-745-9659; brookegregson.com

2. FIND THE RIGHT SHOWS AND PROS

That Tucson gem show guide ­available at the airport and in the ­hotels? Use it to determine the shows you want to hit. But avoid ­spending an entire day (and possibly blowing your entire budget) at one venue. “I usually visit about four to five shows total, but do most of my buying in only two venues,” says Los Angeles– and London-based designer Brooke Gregson, who also exhibits at JCK Tucson.

Most designers have a network of suppliers they regularly do business with, but if you don’t, personal recommendations and introductions from your peers are invaluable.

Instagram is also a great place to discover potential partners. Just do your due diligence as far as checking references to assess the quality of dealers’ product and the fairness of their pricing.

“I’ve found that I gravitate to a very small group of random dealers who tend to specialize in a certain stone, are as picky about quality as I am, presume I’m at least somewhat educated about the stones, and don’t give me the subsequent hard sell,” Landa says.

“And they don’t mind if I spend far too much time with tweezers in hand matching sets of stones.”

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REAL LOGISTICS

18k yellow gold emerald and Mexican fire opal drop earrings with diamond wires; $14,685; Lauren K; info@laurenk.com; laurenk.com

3. EXPLORE UNFAMILIAR TERRITORY

Seasoned Tucson gem hunters never close the door on buying from new suppliers.

“For me, the pure joy of Tucson is the new material and stones that I find,” says designer Lauren Kessler of Lauren K Fine Jewelry in New York City. “I love when something catches my eye that I haven’t seen before.”

Consider shopping the smaller, random gem shows that pepper Tucson in addition to the ones that draw the biggest crowds. Dealers that come a great distance—from, say, Australia or Brazil—need to maximize their time in the United States. So they prefer to sell for a longer period of time (two weeks or more) versus exhibiting at a single four- to six-day show. That means setting up shop at the smaller, lowkey, and often lesser-known venues.

“The bonus for shoppers like me is an uninterrupted first look at the selection before it’s been picked over, and likely at far better prices,” Landa says.

Just be willing to plow through a lot of junk. Finding the treasure can be a bit like combing the stalls of a flea market, but well worth it if you’re up for the extra effort required.

JCKONLINE.COM

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4. PUSH YOURSELF

If you’re buying at the highest level and come across an exceptional, beautiful stone that’s priced a little out of your comfort zone, go for it anyway.

“I’ve had beautiful stones that took a while to sell, but I never regretted buying them because I could stand behind them knowing that they’re special,” says longtime Tucson gem buyer Walter McTeigue, co-owner of McTeigue & McClelland in Great Barrington, Mass.

Meanwhile, McTeigue can recall plenty of stones he’s passed on, including an 8 ct. cushion-cut sapphire he thinks about more than 30 years later. “I went back to the dealer’s office the next day, and it was sold,” he says. “It still kind of haunts me.”

5. TRUST YOUR GUT

Don’t buy based on a stone’s grading scale.

“Confidence in your gut when gem buying goes a long way,” Gregson says. The ability to act quickly and decisively will serve you well because you’ll waste little time ­worrying that there’s something better at the next booth.

The only drawback? “If I love a stone, I generally buy it,” Kessler says. “No matter what my budget is going into Tucson, I am well over it by the end of day one.”

Heed these reminders for the best Tucson gem week experience:

Pomegranate bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 150 cts. t.w. red spinel beads, 2.73 cts. t.w. light brown diamonds, and red enamel; price on request; McTeigue & McClelland; 800-956-2826; mc2jewels.com

• Allow a minimum of three days; five is ideal.

• Stay as close to the shows as possible and reserve early—hotels book up way in advance.

• Register before you get to the show to avoid waiting in line.

• Bring cash or checks. Some international vendors don’t take credit cards.

• Don’t forget your loupe.

• Hydrate often—remember, you’re in the desert!

SHOW UP! Our experts recommend the following Tucson gem shows: Earrings with Mexican-opal-inmatrix and diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $6,200; M. Spalten; mspalten@mspalten. com; mspalten.com

6. WAIT—THEN POUNCE If you’re looking for bargains, there’s no way to know exactly where they’re hiding because it changes every year. But designers agree that no matter the show, the best deals occur at the end—as in last day, last few hours.

That’s been the experience of Los Angeles–based designer Melissa Spalten. “Some dealers will be packing up already,” she says, “but many are ready and willing to bargain away inventory rather than send it back home.”

• JCK Tucson at the JW Marriott Tucson Starr Pass Resort & Spa (tucson. jckonline.com) • American Gem Trade Association GemFair at the Tucson Convention Center (agta.org) • GJX Show, aka “The Tent,” at 198 S. Granada Ave. (gjxusa.com) • Pueblo Gem & Mineral Show at the Ramada Tucson Conference Center (pueblogemshow.com) • Kino Gem & Mineral Show at the Kino Sports Complex (as-shows.com/ kino-gem-show) • Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers Show at the Holidome (glwshows.com) • JOGS Tucson Gem & Jewelry Show at the Tucson Expo Center (jogsshow.com) NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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COLORED STONES 94

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

the industry authority

GREEN PLEASE

Everyone from Hollywood’s A-list to British royalty is obsessed with emeralds.

Hey, we can’t blame them!

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Dakota Fanning at the 2018 Emmys in Dior and Lorraine Schwartz

RED CARPET REPORT EVER SINCE ANGELINA Jolie swanned onto the red carpet at the Oscars in 2009 in 115 ct. Lorraine Schwartz emerald earrings (worth a reported $2.5 million), ­Hollywood has had a love affair with the green gem. But it’s gotten super-steamy lately. In the past year alone we’ve seen Dakota Fanning go green at the Emmys; Cardi B dripping in 200 cts. of Colombian emeralds at the VMAs; Katrina Lenk (The Band’s Visit) in pear-shape emerald earrings at the Tony Awards; Octavia Spencer in deep-green emerald and

­ iamond earrings at the Oscars; and Debra Messing, Catherine d Zeta-Jones, Issa Rae, and Zoë Kravitz accessorizing their allblack ensembles with green gems at the Golden Globes. Not coincidentally: All those aforementioned emerald dazzlers were designed by green queen Lorraine Schwartz. But our admiration of emeralds extends far beyond the red carpet… and across the Atlantic. It’s no coincidence that everyone went gaga over Princess Eugenie’s wedding-day tiara. At its center: a 93.7 ct. emerald. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE

A C L O S E - U P L O O K AT T H E C R O S S R O A D S O F J E W E L R Y A N D FA S H I O N

JCKONLINE.COM

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2019 VOTING GUIDE JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM

CONTENTS 98 99 100 102 103 104 104 105 106 109

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! VOTE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A LUXURY STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2019 Select the “best of the best” in jewelry design. Vote for your favorite piece within each product category, plus help determine the grand prize winner, which will be featured on the March/April 2019 cover of JCK magazine.

Voting is only open to jewelry store owners and employees.

VOTE NOW THROUGH 01/15 AT JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM

96

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY DIAMOND JEWELRY COLORED STONE JEWELRY LAB-GROWN DIAMOND AND/OR GEMSTONE JEWELRY PEARL JEWELRY TANZANITE JEWELRY PLATINUM JEWELRY GOLD JEWELRY SILVER JEWELRY CONTEMPORARY METAL JEWELRY

109

MIXED METAL JEWELRY

110

FASHION/BRIDGE JEWELRY

111

PERSONALIZED JEWELRY (BEADS, CHARMS, MESSAGING, INSPIRATIONAL) MEN’S JEWELRY BEST PRICE POINT BEST EARRING DESIGN BEST BRACELET DESIGN BEST RING DESIGN BEST NECKLACE DESIGN BEST BRIDAL DESIGN BEST STATEMENT PIECE INDEX

112 113 113 115 116 118 120 122 122

2019

VOTING GUIDE

Welcome to the 12th annual JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards Voting Guide!

W

e are thrilled with the entries in this year’s design competition, and excited to present some of the finest jewelry companies and designs in the industry.

Every vote counts, and voting for your favorites is easy: 1.

2.

3.

4.

Review the 2019 Voting Guide on the following pages. Circle/note your favorites within each product category and price point.

Log on to JewelersChoiceAwards.com and place your votes using this Voting Guide as a reference.

Select your ultimate favorite. When finished voting, you’ll be taken to a page showcasing your votes.

Please select your over all “favorite among favorites.”

The piece with the most votes in this round will be honored as our grand prize winner and be featured on the March/April 2019 cover of JCK magazine.

Place your votes by January 15th to make your choices count!

All first-place winners will be featured in JCK magazine, and the first-, second-, and third-place winners will be showcased in our “Best of the Best” supplement to the March/April issue of JCK.

MARK SMELZER, PUBLISHER

Many companies have used their wins to promote their products in print, online, and at trade shows throughout the year. We’re delighted to provide them with this opportunity and to provide you, our readers, with hundreds of gorgeous and inspirational pieces to consider.

Help us name “The Best of the Best” in jewelry design by placing your votes today!

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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2019

VOTING GUIDE

COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY $10,000 & UNDER Jye’s International Inc. • $9,460

Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd. • $4,485 (center stone not included in price)

COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY OVER $10,000 Prince Jewelers • $9,500

Jye’s International Inc. • $73,000

Mizrahi Diamonds • $15,000

Neon Gems Inc. • $65,000

Novel Collection • $154,000

Paula Crevoshay • $127,045.60

Setu Doshi / JB Brothers USA • $11,000

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

98

BD Luxury • $3,000,000

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

DIAMOND JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER

Asher Jewelry • $2,495

Amden Jewelry • $2,500

Asher Jewelry • $2,495

Dinaro Creations • $2,199

Verigold • $260

DIAMOND JEWELRY $2,501 – $10,000 Setu Doshi / JB Brothers USA • $2,500

Asher Jewelry • $4,345

(center stone included in price)

Dinaro Creations • $5,999

Gabriel & Co. • $4,005

Nelson Jewelry USA Inc. • $3,500

Shy Creation • $4,800

Yael Designs • $3,183

Zundaa • $7,300 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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DIAMOND JEWELRY OVER $10,000 Joden World Resources • $24,800

Norman Silverman • $146,000

Tamara Comolli Fine Jewelry GmbH • $30,920

Vahan Jewelry • $41,625

(center stone included in price)

Siera Jewelry Inc. • $68,000

COLORED STONE JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER Yael Designs • $10,503

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $1,700

100

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

Aiya Designs • $2,499 (center stone included in price)

Anye Designs • $2,500 (center stone included in price)

Dinaro Creations • $999

Gabriel & Co. • $790

Maui Divers Jewelry • $895

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $1,595

Shy Creation • $1,200

Stuller, Inc. • $1,645

Tasha R, LLC • $629

Beverley K • $4,349

Denny Wong Designs • $7,900

Lika Behar Collection • $8,360

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $3,995

Rodriguez’s House of Stones • $8,700

Shy Creation • $2,980

Vahan Jewelry • $9,125

Yael Designs • $8,370

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

COLORED STONE JEWELRY $2,501 – $10,000 (center stone not included in price)

(center stone included in price)

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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2019

VOTING GUIDE

COLORED STONE JEWELRY OVER $10,000

J.J. Collection • $14,500

C3 Designs • $13,500

Graziela • $59,350

Joden World Resources • $51,200

Liven Co. • $13,898

(center stone included in price)

LAB-GROWN DIAMOND AND/ OR GEMSTONE JEWELRY ALL PRICES Oscar Heyman • $48,000

Paula Crevoshay • $62,590

Charles & Colvard • $4,949

Spence Diamonds • $20,155

(center stone included in price)

102

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

(center stone included in price)

Stuller, Inc. • $2,625

(center stone not included in price)

PEARL JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER

Gabriel & Co. • $705

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $2,350

C. Krishniah Chetty Pvt Ltd • $1,125.73

Lika Behar Collection • $2,200

Mastoloni • $1,200

PEARL JEWELRY OVER $2,500 Maui Divers Jewelry • $2,495

Jye’s International Inc. • $8,111

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $3,500

Rosa Van Parys Jewelry • $16,455

RETAIL RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR Y VOTE!

Yoko London • $28,000

YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2019 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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TANZANITE JEWELRY $10,000 & UNDER East Arts Jewelry Mfy. Ltd. • $2,400 (center stone included in price)

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $9,595 (center stone included in price)

TANZANITE JEWELRY OVER $10,000 Stuller, Inc. • $1,995

Ambience Inc. • $28,000

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

PLATINUM JEWELRY $10,000 & UNDER Jye’s International Inc. • $32,500

Paula Crevoshay • $186,725

Beverley K • $4,929

Malo Creations • $6,999.99

(center stone included in price)

(center stone not included in price)

104

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

(center stone included in price)

Gabriel & Co. • $3,015

(center stone not included in price)

PLATINUM JEWELRY OVER $10,000

Michael Schofield & Co. • $10, $10,875

Joden World Resources • $34,600

Jye’s International Inc. • $39,200

Stuller, Inc. • $19,928

Yael Designs • $116,386

Breuning • $1,199

Frederick Goldman Inc. • $1,405

Jye’s International Inc. • $2,495

Royal Chain Group • $2,150

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

GOLD JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER

Gabriel & Co. • $1,600

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! V Thorsten • $1,199.99

YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2019 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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2019

VOTING GUIDE

GOLD JEWELRY OVER $2,500 DF Walter Inc • $45,500

Dorian & Rose • $11,555

E.L. Designs • $3,993

Gaudy Atelier • $4,995

Jye’s International Inc. • $23,000

Lika Behar Collection • $3,960

Marika Desert-Gold • $5,700

Vahan Jewelry • $18,750

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $450

Brenda Smith Jewelry • $499

(center stone included in price)

SILVER JEWELRY $500 & UNDER

106

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

E.L. Designs • $396

Frederic Duclos • $285

Gabriel & Co. • $175

Lika Behar Collection • $490

Nadri Jewelry • $435

Royal Chain Group • $495

Samuel B. Collection • $399

Samuel B. Collection • $263

SILVER JEWELRY

(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)

$501 – $1,000

Belle Étoile • $695

Aiya Designs • $999

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $700

Brenda Smith Jewelry • $660

Breuning • $699 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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SILVER JEWELRY (CONTINUED)

$501 – $1,000

Jorge Revilla • $778

Frederic Duclos • $505

Heavenly Vices Fine Jewelry • $900

Samuel B. Collection • $745

Samuel B. Collection • $1,000

Aiya Designs • $2,499

Heavenly Vices Fine Jewelry • $1,250

Nadri Jewelry • $1,500

Vahan Jewelry • $3,500

SILVER JEWELRY OVER $1,000

Lika Behar Collection • $1,210

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CONTEMPORARY METAL JEWELRY ALL PRICE POINTS

Thorsten • $499.99

Stuller, Inc. • $329

Thorsten • $499.99

Thorsten • $299.99

Thorsten • $499.99

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2019 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM

Malo Creations • $599.99

MIXED METAL JEWELRY $1,000 & UNDER

Lika Behar Collection • $770

Frederick Goldman Inc. • $495

Frederick Goldman Inc. • $895

Royal Chain Group • $1,000

Samuel B. Collection • $825 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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VOTING GUIDE

MIXED METAL JEWELRY OVER $1,000 Lika Behar Collection • $2,070

Malo Creations • $1,999.99

FASHION/ BRIDGE JEWELRY $500 & UNDER Vahan Jewelry • $4,500

110

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $450

Belle Étoile • $495

BERING Time Inc. • $219

Gabriel & Co. • $455

Lafonn • $265

Les Georgettes by Altesse • $249

MeditationRings • $349

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

FASHION/ BRIDGE JEWELRY OVER $500 Michou • $354

Nadri Jewelry • $435

Belle Étoile • $525

BERND WOLF GmbH • $599

Nadri Jewelry • $1,500

Gabriel & Co. • $300

Kin and Pebble • $450

Stuller, Inc. • $2,405

Stuller, Inc. • $1,435

PERSONALIZED JEWELRY (BEADS, CHARMS, MESSAGING, INSPIRATIONAL)

ALL PRICE POINTS

Malo Creations • $1,999.99

RETAIL RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR Y VOTE!

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VOTING GUIDE

MEN’S JEWELRY $1,000 & UNDER

Thorsten • $499.99

Royal Chain Group • $460

Thorsten • $499.99

Thorsten • $299.99

Thorsten • $499.99

Maui Divers Jewelry • $2,995

Paragon • $3,000

MEN’S JEWELRY OVER $1,000

Stuller, Inc. • $1,875

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William Henry • $1,895

(center stone included in price)

BEST PRICE POINT $1,000 & UNDER

Lafonn • $240

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $350

Dinaro Creations • $499

Neon Gems Inc. • $1,000

Stuller, Inc. • $575

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BEST EARRING DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER

Gabriel & Co. • $1,540

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $1,500

Beverley K • $1,959

Shy Creation • $520

Su-Raj Inter Gold Inc. • $650 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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VOTING GUIDE

BEST EARRING DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $4,265

Jye’s International Inc. • $9,860

Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd. • $4,300

SAMIRA • $8,080

SAMIRA • $8,770

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! V YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2019 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM

Shy Creation • $4,000

BEST EARRING DESIGN OVER $10,000 Kabana • $12,023

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Novel Collection • $96,000

Rahaminov Diamonds • $150,0 $150,000

Yael Designs • $10,119

SAMIRA • $19,360

Belle Étoile • $675

Dinaro Creations • $2,199

Shy Creation • $1,800

Tasha R, LLC • $2,379

Gabriel & Co. • $2,630

I. Reiss • $4,000

BEST BRACELET DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER

FREYWILLE • $1,180

BEST BRACELET DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000

KAPSASKIS DIM & SIA OE • $3,000

Shy Creation • $3,500 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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VOTING GUIDE

BEST BRACELET DESIGN OVER $10,000

Malakan Diamond Co. • $45,000

Beverley K • $15,389

Joden World Resources • $34,600

Neon Gems Inc. • $15,500

Rahaminov Diamonds • $60,000

BEST RING DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER Alamea Hawaii LLC • $450

Yael Designs • $14,499

CKC Sons • $856.70

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I. Reiss • $2,250

Lafonn • $220

Malo Creations • $1,799.99

Margisa • $1,990

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $1,795.00

Su-Raj Inter Gold Inc. • $600

Tasha R, LLC • $429

Tasha R, LLC • $1,499

A2 Jewellery • $2,900

Dallas Prince & Company • $9,950

Gabriel & Co. • $2,815

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $9,500

(center stone included in price)

BEST RING DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000

FREYWILLE • $4,785

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

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Shy Creation • $8,800 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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2019

VOTING GUIDE

BEST RING DESIGN OVER $10,000 Giamante • $45,193

Joden World Resources • $100,000

Novel Collection • $520,000

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $17,355

(center stone included in price)

Mizrahi Diamonds • $75,000 (center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

BEST NECKLACE DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER Setu Doshi / JB Brothers USA • $130,000

Dinaro Creations • $799

(center stone included in price)

Gabriel & Co. • $1,530

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International Jewelry • $1,299

Kabarovsky Jewellery House • $800

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $2,49 $2,499

Shy Creation • $1,540

Su-Raj Inter Gold Inc. • $600

Liberty Diamonds • $6,500

Maui Divers Jewelry • $3,995

BEST NECKLACE DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $4,59 $4,595

Royal Chain Group • $7,400

BEST NECKLACE DESIGN OVER $10,000 Joden World Resources • $22,700

RETAIL RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR Y VOTE!

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $36,995

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NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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2019

VOTING GUIDE

BEST BRIDAL DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER Anye Designs • $1,600

Beverley K • $2,299

CrownRing • $1,900

East Arts Jewelry Mfy. Ltd. • $2,499

Gabriel & Co. • $1,875

Leo Schachter Diamonds • $1,399

Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd. • $2,336

Shy Creation • $1,960

Stuller, Inc. • $2,029

Tasha R, LLC • $2,249

(center stone included in price)

(center stone not included in price)

(center stone not included in price)

(center stone not included in price)

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(center stone included in price)

(center stone not included in price)

(center stone not included in price)

(center stone not included in price)

(center stone not included in price)

(center stone not included in price)

BEST BRIDAL DESIGN $2,501 – $5,000 Brilliant Earth • $2,590

CKC Sons • $4,701.87

Frederick Goldman Inc. • $2,9 $2,995

Frederick Goldman Inc. • $3,995

Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd. • $3,931

Shy Creation • $2,900

Tasha R, LLC • $2,629

(center stone not included in price)

(center stone not included in price)

(center stone included in price)

(center stone not included in price)

(center stone included in price)

(center stone not included in price)

(center stone included in price)

BEST BRIDAL DESIGN OVER $5,000 Brilliant Earth • $8,990

Leo Schachter Diamonds • $13,000

Norman Silverman • $42,750

Setu Doshi / JB Brothers USA • $58,000

(center stone included in price)

Marisa Perry Atelier • $45,500 (center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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VOTING GUIDE

BEST STATEMENT PIECE $30,000 & UNDER CKC Sons • $28,413.31

Jye’s International Inc. • $15,000

INDEX A2 Jewellery .................................................................. 117 Aiya Designs .................................................... 100, 107, 108 Alamea Hawaii LLC .................................. 100, 103, 106, 107, 110, 113, 116 Ambience INC ............................................................... 104 Amden Jewelry .............................................................. 99 Anye Designs......................................................... 100, 120 Asher Jewelry ................................................................ 99 BD Luxury ...................................................................... 98 Belle Étoile........................................................ 107, 110, 115 BERING Time Inc. ........................................................... 110 BERND WOLF GmbH ...................................................... 111 Beverley K .......................................... 101, 104, 113, 116, 120 Brenda Smith Jewelry............................................ 106, 107 Breuning................................................................ 105, 107

122

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

Hays & Russel • $28,000

Katherine LeGrand – Custom Goldsmith • $29,000

Brilliant Earth................................................................. 121 C. Krishniah Chetty Jewellers Pvt Ltd. �������������������������� 103 C3 Designs.................................................................... 103 Charles & Colvard ......................................................... 102 CKC Sons .......................................................... 116, 121, 122 CrownRing.................................................................... 120 Dallas Prince & Company ���������������������������������������������� 117 Denny Wong Designs ..................................................... 101 DF Walter Inc................................................................. 106 Dinaro Creations................................... 99, 100, 113, 115, 118 Dorian & Rose ............................................................... 106 E.L. Designs ........................................................... 106, 107 East Arts Jewelry Mfy. Ltd. ..................................... 104, 120 Frederic Duclos....................................................... 107, 108 Frederick Goldman Inc. .....................................105, 109, 121 FREYWILLE ...............................................................115, 117 Gabriel & Co........................... 99, 101, 103, 104, 105, 107, 110, 111, 113, 115, 117, 118, 120 Gaudy Atelier .................................................................106

Gerhard D. Wempe KG ...................................................123 Giamante ........................................................................118 Graziela .........................................................................102 Hays & Russel.................................................................122 Heavenly Vices Fine Jewelry �����������������������������������������108 I. Reiss .................................................................... 115, 116 International Jewelry ......................................................118 J.J. Collection ................................................................102 Joden World Resources ............................100, 102, 105, 116, 118, 119, 123 Jorge Revilla ..................................................................108 Jye’s International Inc. ............................. 98, 103, 104, 105, 106, 114, 122, 123 Kabana ...........................................................................114 Kabarovsky Jewellery House �����������������������������������������118 KAPSASKIS DIM & SIA OE �����������������������������������������������115 Katherine LeGrand – Custom Goldsmith ....................... 122 Kin and Pebble ...............................................................115 Lafonn ............................................................... 110, 113, 116

BEST STATEMENT PIECE OVER $30,000 Gerhard D. Wempe KG • $112,500

Joden World Resources • $100,000

Jye’s International Inc. • $189,200

Nelson Jewelry USA Inc. • $45,000

Neon Gems Inc. • $75,000

Norman Silverman • $4,200,000

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $57,745

Willow Diamonds • $173,000

(center stone included in price)

(center stone included in price)

Leo Schachter Diamonds ......................................... 120, 121 Les Georgettes by Altesse ���������������������������������������������� 110 Liberty Diamonds ........................................................... 119 Lika Behar Collection ...........................101, 103, 106, 108, 110 Liven Co. ....................................................................... 102 Malakan Diamond Co. ��������������������������������������������������� 116 Malo Creations ........................................... 104, 109, 110, 116 Margisa .......................................................................... 116 Marika Desert-Gold ........................................................ 106 Marisa Perry Atelier ........................................................ 121 Mastoloni ...................................................................... 103 Maui Divers Jewelry ....................................101, 103, 112, 119 MeditationRings ............................................................. 110 Michael Schofield & Co. ������������������������������������������������ 105 Michou ............................................................................111 Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd ..........................98, 114, 120, 121 Mizrahi Diamonds ..................................................... 98, 118 Nadri Jewelry .................................................... 107, 108, 111

Nelson Jewelry USA Inc. ...........................................99, 123 Neon Gems Inc. ............................................98, 113, 116, 123 Norman Silverman ............................................ 100, 121, 123 Novel Collection ................................................. 98, 114, 118 Oscar Heyman ............................................................... 102 Paragon .......................................................................... 112 Parlé Jewelry Designs .......................... 101, 104, 114, 117, 118, 119, 123 Paula Crevoshay ................................................98, 102, 104 Prince Jewelers ...............................................................98 Rahaminov Diamonds ...............................................115, 116 Rodriguez’s House of Stones ����������������������������������������� 101 Rosa Van Parys Jewelry ������������������������������������������������ 103 Royal Chain Group ................................105, 107, 109, 112, 119 Samira ...................................................................... 114, 115 Samuel B. Collection ......................................... 107, 108, 109 Setu Doshi / JB Brothers USA .........................98, 99, 118, 121

Shy Creation .......................................... 99, 101, 113, 114, 115, 117, 119, 120, 121 Siera Jewelry Inc. .......................................................... 100 Spence Diamonds. ......................................................... 102 Stuller, Inc. ........................................ 101, 102, 104, 105, 109, 111, 112, 113, 120 Su-Raj Inter Gold Inc. .......................................... 113, 117, 119 Tamara Comolli Fine Jewelry GmbH ����������������������������� 100 Tasha R, LLC .......................................... 101, 115, 117, 120, 121 Thorsten ........................................................... 105, 109, 112 Vahan Jewelry .....................................100, 101, 106, 108, 110 Verigold ...........................................................................99 William Henry ................................................................. 112 Willow Diamonds ........................................................... 123 Yael Designs ...............................................99, 100, 101, 105, 115, 116 Yoko London .................................................................. 103 Zundaa ............................................................................99

This company index is published as a convenience and not as part of the Jewelers’ Choice Awards Contract. Every care has been taken to index companies correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page numbers, or failure to insert of include information.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

123

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! VOTE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2019 Select the “best of the best” in jewelry design.

Vote for your favorite piece within each product category, plus help determine the grand prize winner, which will be featured on the March/April 2019 cover of JCK magazine. m Voting is only open to jewelry store owners and employees.

VOTE NOW AT JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM 124

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

Now through January 15th

JIS JANUARY

MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER MIAMI BEACH, FL The JIS January Show is the 2nd largest JIS show of the year and one of the largest jewelry trade shows in the Western Hemisphere between the holiday season and Valentine’s Day.

JIS MARCH | NEW MONTH! MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER MIAMI BEACH, FL

A niche jewelry affair and one of the most intimate events in the industry—here’s where you can get an early start on shopping for Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, and wedding season.

JIS EXCHANGE | NEW LOCATION!

THE SANDS EXPO & CONVENTION CENTER LAS VEGAS, NV

Your premier destination and #1 source for immediate at-show delivery during Las Vegas Jewelry Week. Taking place alongside JCK Las Vegas and LUXURY in the Sands Expo & Convention Center.

JIS OCTOBER

MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER MIAMI BEACH, FL The October Show is the second largest jewelry trade show in the Americas and the largest, most diverse JIS Show of the year.

With array of specialty and international pavilions. JIS October is your chance to stock up for the holiday season.

R E G I S T E R T O AT T END OR APPLY TO EXHIB IT TODAY! V I S I T J I S S H OW.C OM F OR SHOW D ATES Co nt a c t J I S d irect ly at +1 (800) 840-5612 o r at j i ssh o w @ re e d j e w e l ry g roup .c om

STAY CONNECTED | #JISSHOW

T R A PPE D B Y I N D U S TRY R EG U L ATI O N S & CO M PL IA N CE ?

WE’ L L H EL P YO U B RE A K TH RO U GH .

Non-compliance with regulations can catch a company completely off guard. Being reactive is costly – both financially and to your reputation. JVC membership allows you to be proactive. Our staff attorneys are experts in jewelry industry regulations and compliance and are ready to assist you or your internal legal staff at any time.

BECOME A MEMBER OF JVC. To join, call 212.997.2002 or visit jvclegal.org.

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THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault

SWISS ARMY The bracelet was fabricated

FEATHER LIGHTS Piaget collaborated with

by a team of craftspeople at Piaget’s atelier in La Côte-auxFées, Switzerland. “Sometimes we create a piece of jewelry around the stone; sometimes we find the stone to match the piece,” says Lynam. “In this case, the manchette was created and designed around the central sapphire.”

well-known feather marquetry artist Nelly Saunier on the 18k white gold piece, which boasts a 24.36 ct. emeraldcut sapphire center stone, Saunier’s hand-gathered feathers, and 9.45 cts. t.w. white brilliant-cut diamonds.

WINGS OF DESIRE

SMOOTH FLIGHT The piece came together

as expected, Lynam says.

“Feathers are a natural material, so there is always a small element of the unforeseen when the materials are composed and applied. But every step was meticulously planned and executed.”

THE BEAUTY OF the Far North—including the ­ ythical colors of the aurora borealis—inspired Piaget’s m spring 2018 high jewelry collection, Sunlight Escape.

And this white gold manchette was designed to channel ­“northern, summery, endless sky into water,” says Yvonne Lynam, Piaget’s president in the Americas. Its tapestry of rich blues and greens wasn’t created with gems, but rather with colored bird feathers—achieved through feather ­marquetry, a 16th-century decorative technique that’s ­clearly ripe for revival. —EMILI VESILIND JCKONLINE.COM

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THE VAULT

DIAMONDS

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

X FACTOR

Single Opal X earring in 18k white and rose gold with a 17.62 ct. opal and 1.23 cts. t.w. baguette and pavé diamonds; $14,400

Jewelry designer Emily P. Wheeler, a veteran of the Bay Area tech scene, introduced her collection of diamond and gemstone fine jewelry in 2014 with a diamond-studded cigar band that caught fire with San Francisco’s social set. Wheeler’s latest collection of diamond-based designs plays with the X shape in innovative and unexpected ways: Thin slashes of 18k white, yellow, and rose gold— incorporating diamond pavé and baguette-cut diamonds— create beautifully off-kilter forms when crisscrossed. Even without the high-wattage sparkle of their diamonds, these designs would turn heads. —EMILI VESILIND

X earrings with 3.1 cts. t.w. baguette and pavé diamonds in 14k yellow and white gold; $16,200; Emily P. Wheeler; 646-745-6831; emilypwheeler.com

Line earrings with 0.5 ct. t.w. baguette and pavé diamonds in 14k yellow and white gold; $3,800

HOT STOCK TIP

14k Strawberry Gold hoop earrings with 6 cts. t.w.

Vanilla Diamonds; $32,598; levian.com

THROW ME A LOOP Few jewelry looks are hotter than hoop earrings right now. And these versatile hoops from Le Vian—fabricated in the brand’s trademark pinkish 14k Strawberry Gold and set with 6 cts. t.w. round-cut diamonds—are an alluring option for high-end jewelry fans eager to invest in a trendy style that never truly falls out of fashion. —EV

MESSIKA BY GIGI HADID! SEE jckonline.com/topics/diamonds FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

THE VAULT

SILVER HOT STOCK TIP

HOT SLASH Spinelli Kilcollin founder Yves Spinelli’s father, Antoine—a jeweler, painter, hairstylist, and inventor—codesigned the brand’s first linked ring (SK’s signature style) with Yves. Now they’ve debuted a small range of silver rings hand-forged

by Antoine at his bench in Honolulu. The Celine ring—a thick band of sterling slashed with a diagonal gap—is the artful heart of the fashionforward series. —EMILI VESILIND 3 mm sterling silver Celine ring; $700; spinellikilcollin.com

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

EXTRA CAVIAR! Philadelphia-based brand Lagos has debuted a chic stand-alone collection co-created by founder and creative director Steven Lagos and his 26-year-old daughter, Kate Shares Lagos.

Lagos KSL (named for Kate’s initials) incorporates the atelier’s ubiquitous dotted Caviar design detail in bigger, bolder, and more youthfulfeeling styles—fabricated in two-tone sterling silver with 18k yellow gold accents.

“Like all of our customers, Kate knows what she likes and has a defined personal style,” Steven says. “KSL reflects her refreshing point of view, resulting in a look and silhouette that we haven’t explored before.” —EV

JCKONLINE.COM

Sterling silver and 18k yellow gold hoop earrings; $650; Lagos KSL; customerservice@ lagos.com; lagos.com

Sterling silver and diamond ring with 18k yellow gold; $1,600

Sterling silver and diamond drop earrings with 18k yellow gold, $3,500

Caviar bracelet in sterling silver with 18k yellow gold and diamonds; $1,800

3 SALABLE NEW SILVER LINES! SEE jckonline.com/topics/silver FOR THAT AND MORE.

NEW LOOK NEW VENUE 2 0 1 9 . . . W E ’ R E R E A D Y, A R E Y O U ?

Friday, May 31 – Monday, June 3, 2019 SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS

JCKLASVEGAS.COM

@JCKEVENTS

#JCKLASVEGAS

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THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

Show biz Polvere di Sogni braided cuffs in 18k rose gold vermeil with dark brown and black Polvere finish; $435–$550; Pesavento; 914289-0206; pesavento jewelry.com

GOLDEN TICKET

Unlike some European trade fairs, Italy’s VicenzaOro is thriving. Here’s why.

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

W

HILE MANY TR ADE fairs are seeing declines in exhibitors and attendees, VicenzaOro appears to be bucking the trend. The Italian gold jewelry fair takes over the Vicenza fairgrounds Jan. 18–23, when the show expects to welcome more than 1,500 brands from 36 countries (nearly three times the watch and jewelry exhibitors expected at Baselworld in Switzerland next March).

Marco Carniello, division director of jewelry and fashion at the Italian Exhibition Group, ­organizers of the fair, attributes the growth to changes set forth in 2015, when VicenzaOro ­introduced its Boutique Show format. “We split all the exhibitors into different communities

based on their products, and we also started to target the high-end jewelry sector,” Carniello says.

The changes include a series of talks, dubbed “Visio.Next,” that debuted at the show’s September edition—the topic on tap in January is sustainability—and the 2-year-old Design Room, which will feature 16 independent jewelers from around the world, including Paris-based Lydia Courteille.

The show’s core established exhibitors are equally focused on innovation. For example, Pesavento, a made-in-Italy brand new to the U.S. market, will showcase its signature silver and gold vermeil styles featuring experimental finishes.

Prepare to veni, vidi, vici!

JCKONLINE.COM

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The Jewelry Industry’s

wimer oasis

February 3 – 9, 2019

JW MARRIOTT TUCSON S TA R R PA S S R E S O R T & S PA

E X P E R I E N C E C U R A T E D N E T W O R K I N G E V E N T S A L O N G S I D E A P R O D U C T I V E J E W E L R Y B U Y I N G E V E N T , C A R E F U L LY D E S I G N E D T O I N S P I R E , E X C I T E A N D C O N N E C T B U Y E R S , D E S I G N E R S A N D S U P P L I E R S O F F I N I S H E D J E W E L R Y, TECHNOLOGY AND LOOSE GEMSTONES. OPEN TO ALL QUALIFIED JEWELRY PROFESSIONALS.

L E A R N M O R E & R E G I ST E R TO DAY

J C KO N L I N E . C O M / T U C S O N INTERESTED IN EXHIBITING? CONTACT ALEXANDRA WURSTER AT AWURSTER@REEDJEWELRYGROUP.COM

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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME CRIME BUSTERS How technology can thwart a home invasion robbery

I

GRINVALDS/ISTOCK/GETTY

BY EMILI VESILIND

T’S A TERRIFYING scenario: You awake in the middle of the night to discover armed robbers breaking into your home, demanding the codes to your store’s front door and safe.

Home invasion robberies are a jeweler’s worst nightmare. The goal in these cases isn’t to rob your homes, but to clean out your store. “They find out where you live, and they wait for the right moment,” says John J. Kennedy, president of the Jewelers’ Security Alliance in New York City. “Their goal is to take you or your keys to the store.”

Thanks in part to technological advances in home security, the number of home invasion robberies—and kidnappings—of jewelers has dropped in the past five years. But they still happen: A Riverside, Calif., jeweler was the victim of a robbery in his home in August.

We asked Kennedy to share his top five tech tips for preventing thieves from breaking into your home.

BE ALARMED First things first: “All jewelers should have a comprehensive alarm system at their [residence] doors and points of entry,” Kennedy says. Well-regarded security system brands abound (Frontpoint and ADT are widely used), but whichever one you choose, make sure it includes professional installation.

LIGHT IT UP “Lighting scares people away,” says Kennedy, who recalls seeing video footage of thieves turning tail once a bright light, triggered by motion, flooded the yard. “You can have a combination of lighting that you leave on all night and lighting that’s motion-detecting— in obscure places that will go off if someone is lurking there.” Lights from hidden cameras also can be effective.

SHARPEN YOUR VISION And speaking of cameras—Kennedy highly recommends them. “You need cameras posted outside so you can watch your property from the inside.”

He also suggests a motion-detecting

video doorbell, like the Hello doorbell from Nest, to monitor those approaching your residence from the front.

FOIL FOLLOWERS Criminals can find out where you live by following you home. So in addition to varying your route and staying aware of people and cars around you, ­Kennedy suggests investing in a GPS detector (typically, about $200) to ensure your vehicle isn’t being tracked.

Cameras allow you to be in your bedroom and monitor other rooms on an iPhone or a tablet should you hear something suspicious.

LIMIT SOCIAL Kennedy advises limiting the personal information you and your family post to social media, which can make it easier for criminals to find and track you.

(Kim Kardashian’s real-time Instagrams and Snapchats clued robbers in to her whereabouts in Paris in 2016; she’s said she now posts from public locations only after she leaves.) “Never post pictures or information regarding your residence, your vehicle, your location, your family, vacations, or travel plans,” he says. In other words, keep your online identity all business.

JCKONLINE.COM

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Tool Time

‌THE GOODS

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WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

SKAGEN FALSTER 2 Danish watch and accessories brand Skagen has released an update to the sleek Falster smartwatch it debuted at the Consumer Electronics Show in ­January.

The Falster 2 adds to the connected watch’s functions—most notably, a heart rate monitor in response to customer demand—and builds on its spare design with the addition of minimalist battery-saving watch dials and two programmable pushers (for quicker access to apps). “The Falster 2 represents everything Skagen stands for,” says Frederik Thrane, the company’s creative director: “an appreciation of simplicity and a thoughtful approach to how your time is spent.” —EMILI VESILIND The Falster 2 is powered by Wear OS by Google OS and seamlessly runs fitness app Google Fit.

What we liked: Falster 2 has GPS capabilities built into the watch, meaning it doesn’t need to tether to a synced smartphone. So you can leave your phone at home on a long bike ride or run while still tracking your route (and distances) on your wrist.

What we didn’t like: Not much— this is one of the all-around best wearables we’ve seen this year.

Though it would be great to see a Falster 2 in bright hues. We’d like to request bright fuchsia and mango-orange, please.

Best features: The smartwatch has a waterproof case for swims and splashes—an upgrade from the original Falster—and features a magnetic steel-mesh strap that’s both flexible and comfortable and facilitates quick fastening but doesn’t forsake style. ($275; skagen.com)

APP CHAT

KANBANFLOW

The MatrixGold Essentials system runs on what Gemvision describes as the most powerful CAD engine, Rhino 6.

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

MATRIXGOLD ESSENTIALS Jewelry design technology firm Gemvision, which was acquired by Stuller in 2009, has introduced a new CAD software system, MatrixGold Essentials, that combines features from top CAD setups Matrix and RhinoGold while incorporating elements of the user-friendly C ­ ounterSketch ­interface. The software boasts a clean design, an easy search bar, a custom-built browser, and a­ reimagined jobs bag to support efficient workflow, among other features. “We’re very excited to introduce a completely new software to the industry,” says Gemvision’s programming director, Albert Oldfield. Because in today’s jewelry industry, “customization is more important than ever.”

(Introductory price: $5,200; gemvision.com/matrixgold) —EV NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

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Keep your team on track—and apprised of daily ­expectations—with the user-friendly KanbanFlow project management app. The color-coded mobile interface provides an easy-to-digest overview of a business’s workflow and offers quick and effective ways to communicate with your employees, which can lead to better productivity.

In-app tools include a timer that allows users to log time spent on any activity and the ability to generate analytic reports that can pinpoint potential bottlenecks. ($5/month; kanbanflow.com) —EV

KanbanFlow is easily integrated into popular calendars such as Google Calendar and Outlook.

CITIZEN TEAMS WITH FOSSIL GROUP TO PRODUCE SMARTWATCHES! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

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10/31/18 5:09 PM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

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Arch Crown Inc. Midas Chain 50 McDermott Place Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 877-643-2765 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com Do you love gold jewelry that goes with everything? Then you need our medallions, ranging from dainty to supersized on a 24-inch 14k link chain. Medallions have an undeniable presence and are available at Midas Chain! MSRP: starting at $505

Thorsten Jewelry 404 E. First St., Suite 1204 Long Beach, CA 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings.com Website: thorstenrings.com

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Pre-Printed Tags & Labels for Holiday/Seasonal Promotions. Turn browsers into buyers with pre-printed tags and labels. Ideal for identifying precious and semiprecious jewelry, new items, special sales, price reductions, and seasonal clearances. Ask about our assortment special—100 styles to choose from! Just in time for the holiday season.

Gabriel & Co. 545 W. 45th St., Third Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: cs@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com

Thorsten is always evolving. Our new titanium styles have pushed us to over 600 styles for you to choose from. Bold rings, unique styles, and modern design—you’ll find a ring that’s right for you.

A delicate arc of gold balls, radiant mini-clusters of diamonds, chains of perfect gold circles: This is how Gabriel & Co. interprets Bujukan, the Balinese act of persuasion achieved by a subtle wink, a gentle touch, that one perfect word spoken in a whisper.

Stuller Inc.

Le Vian®

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com

Stuller’s fine jewelry styles reflect popular favorites and updated classics, providing options for every customer. Browse our new styles and bestselling designs at stuller.com/jewelry.

JCKONLINE.COM

Spring ahead to the 2019 color trends that include dazzling multi-gem designs like this one-of-a-kind Peacock necklace. View the extended Multi-Color Peacock and Rainbow gem collections at Centurion and CBG.

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Royal Chain 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com

Royal Chain has released a fabulous, special-edition catalog dedicated entirely to the earring category. Try these fresh climbers and studs that can be worn alone or layered up the lobe! MSRP: starting at $127

Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere, all made in the USA. This beautiful 14k cross with 0.05pts diamonds is available in yellow, white, and rose gold. MSRP: $245

Hoover & Strong

RDI Diamonds Inc.

10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 m Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com

2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com

Hoover & Strong has over 650 die-struck bands, including hundreds of new classic, fancy, multi-Tone, and diamond styles! All bands are Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our products.

Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again!

You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100 percent Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.

Stuller Inc.

Vibhor

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

590 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-869-5060 Email: peter@vibhorgems.com Website: vibhorgems.com

Known for high quality and strict grading standards, Stuller offers the largest on-hand diamond inventory to the jewelry industry. Browse our assortment of melee, serialized, lab-grown, exclusive, CanadaMark™, color-enhanced, and more at stuller.com/diamonds.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

Vibhor is a U.S. manufacturer of quality core diamond essentials. We offer a complete turn-key solution, including 18k (nickel-free) rings and other jewelry, in-store training, custom displays, margins, stock-balance privileges, sales incentives, fast shipping, and a five-year warranty.

JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Earstuds USA

Andréa Candela

5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite te 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 usa.com Email: david@earstudsusa.com om Website: earstudsusa.com

Tel: 888-314-5998 Email: info@andreacandela.com Website: andreacandela.com

This stunning, stylish rose gold diamond tennis bracelet has 19.1 cts. t.w. G-H color and si2 clarity diamonds.

Graymoor Lane Designs, a Division of Artistry Ltd. 8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-8340 Email: inquiry@graymoorlanedesigns.com Website: graymoorlanedesigns.com Graymoor Lane Designs, a division of Artistry Ltd., presents the Light collection. Available in 14k white and yellow gold with diamonds, the collection includes pendants, earrings, rings, and cuffs. MSRP: $750–$6,995

Herco 833 Market St., 10th Floor San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-543-1580/800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Email: info@herco.com Website: herco.com Herco offers a wide variety of 14k and 18k yellow, white, and pink gold jewelry. We also carry many items in 22k and 24k gold, platinum, silver, titanium, palladium, and stainless steel.

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Known for armadillo patterns and rope-edge designs, Andréa Candela recently introduced lustrous creations, moving the brand toward the forefront of the jewelry industry while still incorporating Old World craftsmanship. It’s timeless jewelry for today’s fashion-forward woman.

Costar Imports, Inc. Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com This engagement ring (Style R12648) with 0.85 ct. t.w. diamonds catches eyes with its unique octagonal halo and is set up to hold a 6 mm round diamond. The band has 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds. MSRP: Ring $4,200; band $1,650

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

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SERVICES TO TRADE

REPS WANTED

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

INVISIBLE EXPERTS!

Royal Jewelers, Andover, MA Multiple Positions Open – Sign-On Bonus Sales Management, Sales Associates & Watchmakers Join an independent, 70 year old, financially strong retail jewelry store with an emphasis on developing client relationships. Sales: Minimum of 5 years retail experience selling luxury jewelry and/ or watches. GG a plus.

Inquiries to Denise@RoyalJewelers.com

JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES

INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR • SIZING • REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES • LASER WELDING

We Have The Answer to Your Problems! www.invisibleexperts.com SIGNATURE JEWELRY INC.

1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026

617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014

JEWELRY MODELS

For solitaire, engagement, wedding sets, anniversary, 3-stone, eternity rings, and pendants Exclusively made in Los Angeles, USA email: service@jewelryrubbermolds.com www.JewelryRubberMolds.com

Sales Rep. Luxury Watch Accessories Experience in Vintage Watches & Watch Collecting trade.

Independent closer. Strong following luxury only.

1.) Computer skill, 2.) Business market tools.

3.) Discipline, Self starter. Send resume to: email. info@houseofwatchesLTD.com

For over 100 years Rocket has been an industryleading manufacturer of packaging and displays.

We’re big enough that our professionals have the resources to make a difference, yet small enough that you’re not just a number. Find out how you can join our team as a manufacturers rep for the Caribbean and South America and build your career! For more info please send your resume to info@rocketbox.com

CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING 3D computer design 3D wax printing ● Precious metal casting ●

●

Stone setting and finishing Diamond supply ● Laser engraving & repair ●

RUN A CLASSIFIED AD STARTING AT $220 Call your JCK Sales Representative or email JCKClassifieds@advance.net.

Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com

JEWELRY APPRAISERS Heritage Appraisers Inc is seeking several local experienced jewelry appraisers. This is a subcontractor opportunity with limited travel. Several territories nationally. Top commission paid.

WATCHES & WATCH WORK

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Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com

The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices.

Star Findings PO Box 6167, West Orange, NJ 07052 212-941-7655 ernie@starfindings.com www.starfindings.com

Applicants can submit their resumes along with two sample appraisals to appraise@heritageappraisers.com or fax to 216-803-4245 These are immediate openings only serious applicants should apply.

SCHOOLS & EDUCATION JEWELRY CLASSES

• Wax Modeling • Casting Mold Making • Bead Pearl Stringing • Diamond Setting • Rendering/Design • Jewelry Repair Long and Short Term Courses EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. 32 East 31 Street (Park & Madison) New York, NY 10016 Call (212) 686-1944 www.studiojewelersltd.com

STUDIO JEWELERS, LTD

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2018

JCKONLINE.COM

ADVERTISING

INDEX AGTA pg. 21, 84 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alex Velvet pg. 33 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 AndrĂŠa Candela pg. 58 Website: andreacandela.com Email: info@andreacandela.com Artco Group pg. pg. 38 Website: artcogroup.com Toll-Free: 877-222-7820 Artistry Ltd. pg. 20 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Costar Imports pg. 27 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR Earstuds USA pg. 30 Website: earstudsusa.com Email: sales@earstudsusa.com Toll-Free: 866-327-7883 Gabriel & Co. pg. 7 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 Gdansk International Fair Co. pg. 34 Website: amberif.pl Email: amberif@mtgsa.com.pl Phone: +48 58 554 91 34 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 Herco pg. 52 Website: herco.com Email: info@herco.com Toll-Free: 800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Hoover & Strong pg. 47 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997 International Colored Gemstone Association pg. 87 Website: gemstone.org Email: ica@gemstone.org Phone: 212-620-0900 Fax: 212-352-9054

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Istanbul Jewelry Show pg. 39 Website: istanbuljewelryshow.com Email: info-rotaforte@ubm.com Phone: +90 212 519 07 19 Italgem Steel pg. 22 Website: Italgemsteel.com Email: sam@italgemsteel.com Phone: 514-388-5777 Toll-Free: 855-ITALGEM Fax: 514-384-5777 JCK Events pg. 4-5, 130, 132 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 JIS Show pg. 125 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 Kim International pg. 19 Website: kimint.com Email: sales@kimint.com Toll-Free: 800-275-5555 Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN MDJ Advantage pg. 128 Website: mdjadvantage.com Email: Dm@mdjadvantage.com Toll-Free: 888-500-4311 Toll-Free Fax: 877-487-2104 Midas pg. 11 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 9 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Quintessence Jewelry Corporation pg. 24 Website: quintessencejewelry.com Email: pradeep@ quintessencejewelry.com Phone: 516-439-5260 Toll-Free: 877-405-5588 Fax: 516-439-5264 Rand & Paseka pg. 26 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 44 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768

Rembrandt Charms pg. 40 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811 Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Shy Creation Inc. pg. 17 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 SPB Gems pg. 91 Website: spbgems.com Email: info@spbgems.com Phone: 212-719-5170 Star Jewelry pg. 29 Website: blueraydiamonds.com Email: Takess@aol.com Phone: 734-459-8664 Fax: 734-459-8617 Stuller Inc. pg. 15, 35 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Thorsten Jewelry pg. 48 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com Tim Roark Inc. pg. 86 Website: timroarkinc.com Email: info@trimportsatl.com Phone: 404-872-8937 Toll-free: 800-568-2011 Fax: 404-872-9346 Umicore pg. 129 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 VIBHOR pg. 25 Website: vibhorgems.com Phone: 617-308-1580 Wilkerson pg. 23 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333

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United States Postal Service Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation 1) Title of Publication: JCK. 2) Publication Number: USPS 434-570.

3) Date of Filing. October 1, 2018 4) Issue Frequency: January/February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October and November/ December. 5) Number of Issues Published Annually: 7. 6) Annual Subscription Price: $59.95. 7) Complete Mailing Address of known Office of Publication: Reed Exhibitions, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, NY, NY 10007. 8) Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: Reed Exhibitions, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, NY, NY 10007. 9) Publisher : Mark Smelzer, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, NY, NY 10007. Editor: Victoria Gomelsky, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, NY, NY 10007. Managing Editor: Melissa Bernardo, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, NY, NY 10007.

10) Owner: Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk, CT 06851.

11) Known Bondholders, Mortgagees, and Other Security Holders Owner or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgage or Other Securities. None. 12) Tax Status: NA. 13) Publication Title: JCK. 14) Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: July/August 2018. 15) Extent and Nature of Circulation: Average Number of copies of each issue during the preceding 12 months: (a) Total number of copies printed (net press run): 30,191. (b) Paid/Requested Distribution (1) Paid/Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions: 15,793. (2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions: 0.

(3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales and other Paid/Requested distribution: 232. (4) Requested copies distributed by Other Mail Classes: 0. (c ) Total Paid and/or Requested circulation: 16,025. (d) Nonrequested Distribution by Mail (1) Outside County nonrequested: 10,279. (2) In County nonrequested: 0. (3) Nonrequested copies distributed through USPS by Other Classes of Mail: 0. (4) Nonrequested Distribution outside the mail: 2,963. d. Total Nonrequested Distribution: 13,243. Total Distribution: 29,267. (g) Copies not Distributed: 924. (h) Total: 30,191. (i) % Paid/Requested Circulation 54.8%. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: (a) Total number of copies printed (net press run): 28,068. (b) Paid/Requested Distribution (1) Paid/ Requested Outside-County(b) Paid/Requested Distribution (1) Paid/ Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions: 14,918. (2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions: 0. (3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales and other Paid/Requested distribution: 276.

(4) Requested copies distributed by Other Mail Classes: 0. (c ) Total Paid and/ or Requested circulation: 15,194. (d) Nonrequested Distribution by Mail (1) Outside County nonrequested: 11,240. (2) In County nonrequested: 0. (3) Nonrequested copies distributed through USPS by Other Classes of Mail: 0. (4) Nonrequested Distribution outside the mail: 1,214. e. Total Nonrequested Distribution: 12,454. Total Distribution: 27,648. (g) Copies not Distributed: 420. (h) Total: 28,068 (i) % Paid/Requested Circulation 55.0%. 16) Electonic Copy Circulation: 0. 17) Publication of Statement of Ownership will be printed in the November/December 2018 issue of this publication. 18) I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete.

Mark Smelzer, Publisher October 1, 2018.

Copyright Š2018 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 149 No. 7 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October, and November/ December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.

This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

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THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

BELLA GINA

CALLED THE MOST beautiful woman in the world— Humphrey Bogart said she made “Marilyn Monroe look like Shirley Temple”—and often compared with rival Sophia Loren, Gina Lollobrigida was one of Hollywood’s highestprofile actresses in the ’50s and ’60s. She was relentlessly pursued by Howard Hughes and Prince Rainier of Monaco (yes, while he was married to Princess Grace), and even into her 80s was courted by men decades her junior. In the end, she left Hollywood, becoming a photojournalist and sculptor. Yet

one thing remained constant: her love of Bulgari. In this 1965 photo, La Lollo is wearing (and playing with) Bulgari gems at its Rome boutique. In 2013, she sold about $2 million of her Bulgari jewels at Sotheby’s, with proceeds benefiting stem cell research. “I’ve had many lovers and still have romances. I am very spoiled,” she told Parade in 2000. But Bulgari brand and heritage curator Lucia Boscaini has a different take: “The Sotheby’s sale provided the opportunity to remind us this star is a lady with a generous heart.” —KRISTIN YOUNG

JIM PRINGLE/AP PHOTOS

We toss out words like icon and legend to describe all sorts of celebrities, but the Italianborn Gina Lollobrigida, now 91, is the real deal

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10/31/18 5:11 PM

©2018 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

At GIA, gems endure even more pressure.

Science and discovery underpins everything we do. Since 1931, the Gemological Institute of America has been unearthing the truth about gems and creating industry standards. With unwavering commitment to accurate and unbiased methodologies, our dedicated research staff advances the knowledge the industry and consumers need to protect confidence in gems and jewelry. Our discoveries are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls.

The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology

TM

Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu

BENEFICIATION

EDUCATION

Ensuring the Public Trust Through Nonprofit Service Since 1931

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Miracle of nature.

Power for good.

From the Northwest Territories of Canada to the lowlands of Botswana, diamonds create jobs and enable investments in infrastructure, healthcare, education, wildlife conservation and environmental protection. When consumers purchase a diamond, they’re buying more than its beauty. They’re driving its indomitable power for good.

Learn more at diamondproducers.com/sustainability and diamondsdogood.com