JCK 2017 November/December Issue

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

MAKE A WISH LIST

W H AT R E TA I L E R S WA N T T O U N W R A P T H I S H O L I D AY S E A S O N

THE YEAR IN PREVIEW TOPICS, TRENDS, A N D I N N O VAT I O N S DRIVING THE TRADE IN 2018

GOLDEN MOMENT THERE’S NEVER BEEN A BETTER TIME TO BANK ON THE YELLOW METAL

Design and Photo © 2017 Le Vian Corp. All Rights Reserved.

®

2018 ITEM TREND OF THE YEAR

BOYFRIEND RINGS™ GENT’S RING COLLECTION

CHOCOLATE DIAMONDS®

No need to be jealous, gentlemen, Le Vian has heard the call for men’s bands and signet rings and this trend begins with you, the man who wants more than a watch and polished gold band, you crave stylish ORRNV WKDW GH´ QH \RXU LQGLYLGXDOLW\ %XW EHZDUH WKH ZRPHQ LQ \RXU OLIH ZLOO ZDQW RQH WRR LW­V %R\IULHQG 5LQJV� WKH VDPH ORRN DV WKH PHQ­V YHUVLRQ EXW LQ D VL]H WKDW ´ WV KHU ´ QJHU 7R VHH DOO RI WKH WUHQGV YLVLW WKH 1(: OHYLDQ FRP RU FDOO /(9,$1

NO ONE COLORS YOUR WORLD LIKE LE VIAN™ CBG San Francisco, CA Jan 24 - 26, Booth # 601 & 603 • CENTURION SHOW Scottsdale, AZ Jan 28-30, Booth # 509

Cla

T:

,

Show Information: AGTA.org/tradeshows

AGTA Office: 800.972.1162 – info@agta.org

#AGTAGemFair18

2018 SAVE the DATE JIS (Jewelers International Showcase) connects the jewelry industry at four impressive trade events each year. Produced in both South Florida and Las Vegas, Nevada, JIS Shows are the premier jewelry events to explore new trends, find new suppliers, and network with industry professionals. The three Florida-based events take place in January, April, and October to support the retail selling seasons with a diverse product selection; offered through

both immediate at-show delivery and order writing. In June, JIS becomes Las Vegas Jewelry Week’s premier event dedicated to at-show delivery with JIS Exchange (in partnership with JCK Las Vegas and co-located at Mandalay Bay for 2018).

JIS APRIL

JIS JANUARY THE ORIGINAL

THE NICHE

JANUARY 20-22, 2018

APRIL 14-16, 2018

NEW LOCATION! DOUBLETREE BY

MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER

HILTON MIAMI AIRPORT HOTEL +

MIAMI BEACH, FL

CONVENTION CENTER | MIAMI, FL

REGISTER TODAY AT: JISSHOW.COM/JANUARY

JIS EXCHANGE

JIS April 2018 is an intimate jewelry affair, perfectly timed for Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, and Wedding season.

JIS OCTOBER

THE PREMIER

THE LARGEST

JUNE 1-4, 2018

OCTOBER 19-22, 208

NEW LOCATION! MANDALAY BAY RESORT + CASINO | LAS VEGAS, NV

MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER MIAMI BEACH, FL

Your premier destination and #1 source for

JIS October 2018 is the second LARGEST jewelry

immediate at-show delivery during

trade show in the Americas and the largest, most

Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

diverse JIS Show of the year with array of specialty and international pavilions.

GET THE MOST UP TO DATE SHOW INFORMATION AT:

J I S S H O W. C O M Contact JIS directly at 1-800-840-5612 or at jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com

S TAY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S S H O W

JANUARY 20–22, 2018 DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOTEL MIAMI AIRPORT & CONVENTION CENTER

The JIS Januar y Show is the 2nd largest JIS show of the year and one of the largest jewelr y trade shows in the Americas immediately following

the holiday season. The Show is ideal ly timed for restocking and reconnecting with vendors af ter the holidays and to explore the newest Spring trends. Featuring a diverse product selection from hundreds of exhibitors, an easy to shop floor plan, and the JIS Matchmaking

Program, it is an event your store can’t miss.

REGISTER TODAY AT:

JISSHOW.COM/JANUARY

CONTENTS

6

72

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

FOR THE LOVE OF GOLD Male and female shoppers alike are falling for the warm yellow metal. For proof, look no further than these glowy pages.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENNETH WILLARDT

80

GILDED RAGE Meet five jewelry designers who are lighting up the gold scene.

BY VENESSA LAU

86

8 hot topics for 2018 Big issues and buzzworthy trends set to rock retail in 2018.

90

80

THE ULTIMATE RETAIL WISH LIST Boost your business, spruce up your store, and even stock the supply closet with these 25 store-centric holiday gifts.

BY DANIEL P. SMITH

92

GREAT EXPECTATIONS Today, the best service experience anywhere becomes the expectation everywhere. Providing a superior customer experience is no longer optional; it’s obligatory.

90

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

BY EMILI VESILIND

86

97

SPECIAL REPORT: MEN’S JEWELRY 97

A MAN FOR ALL SEASONS Go way beyond watches with artfully eclectic jewelry embracing everything from silicone and steel to dinosaur bone and diamonds.

BY MARTHA C. WHITE

TOP & RIGHT: KENNETH WILLARDT; WINDOW: PATTI McCONVILLE/ALAMY; TAZZ TRIANGLE HOOPS WITH MIXED DIAMONDS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD, $9,090, JULEZ BRYANT, CONTACT@JULEZ.COM, JULEZBRYANT.COM; RIPPLE CHOKER IN 18K YELLOW GOLD WITH DIAMONDS, $16,380, SHAY, 646-745-6831, SHAYFINEJEWELRY.COM; LARIAT X WOVEN NECKLACE IN 14K YELLOW GOLD WITH DIAMONDS, $1,950, PHILLIP GAVRIEL, PHILLIP@ROYALCHAIN.COM, PHILLIPGAVRIEL.COM; LEAF EARRINGS IN RECYCLED 14K YELLOW GOLD WITH FAIR-TRADE MARQUISE-CUT RHODOLITE GARNETS, $1,380, EAST FOURTH STREET, INFO@EASTFOURTHSTREET.COM, EASTFOURTHSTREET.COM; SELFIE: KENDALL JENNER/COURTESY OF IPPOLITA

FEATURES

Pleases visit us at CBG, JIS, GJX Tucson in coming Jan 2018

Nelsonus.com 800-489-3327

CONTENTS

8

JCKONLINE.COM

31 DEPARTMENTS

14 16 18 24 26 28 31 37 38 41

43 46 49 50 52

56

WHAT LIES AHEAD 2018

JEWEL BOX

SEO, social media marketing, and trends such as yellow gold will rule the retail jewelry landscape.

5 things rocking the industry

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER JCK INSIDER JCKONLINE SOCIAL DIARY NEWS GEMS

56

A colorful spring 2018 New York Fashion Week GEM PRICING REPORT

THE CALENDAR Nov. 21, 2017– Jan. 10, 2018

41

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER Joint Venture Jewelry in Cary, N.C. RETAIL THERAPY Products to attract the male self-purchaser STORE WE ADORE Consider the Wldflwrs in Nashville, Tenn.

THE LOOK

RED CARPET JCK ASKS...

Eva Zuckerman

101 102 103 105

THE VAULT COLORED STONES GOLD

SHOW BIZ Preparing for a viaggio to Vicenza in January. Plus: the scoop on October’s JIS show.

107 TOOL TIME

Skype etiquette. Plus: the Kronaby Apex and more.

116 THE WAY WE WORE

Marisa Berenson glows in layers upon layers of Bulgari gold.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

46

49

MODEL: COURTESY OF TIBI; CONSIDER THE WLDFLWRS: NICHOLAS McGINN; HANKIN: JILLIAN CLARK

12

PROFILES IN JEWELRY

COVER LOOK

10

JCKONLINE.COM

Lea choker necklace in 22k yellow gold; $4,400; Lika Behar; likabehar@ likabehar.com; likabehar.com

Signature Box Chain necklace in 18k yellow gold with peridot, rhodolite garnet, blue topaz, and diamond clasp; $13,230; Jordan Alexander; 646-745-6831; jordanalexander jewelry.com Cycladic earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $6,400; Lalaounis; 212-439-9400; iliaslalaounis.eu

GOLDEN MOMENT We’ve been beating the yellow-gold drum for a while now. But if you’re still not convinced of the metal’s universal, skin-flattering appeal, check out our feature on page 72, featuring swoon-worthy jewelry for both your male and female clients.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENNETH WILLARDT Styling: SOLANGE FRANKLIN AT THE WALL GROUP; Hair: RUDY MARTINS FOR ALTERNA AT THE WALL GROUP Makeup: JUSTINE PURDUE AT STREETERS USING MAC COSMETICS Manicurist: HONEY FOR EXPOSURE NY USING DEBORAH LIPPMANN NAIL COLOR IN “RESPECT” Models: CHELSEY WEIMAR/SUPREME MANAGEMENT, PATRICK RUKAI/SOUL ARTIST MANAGEMENT DRESS: ROSETTA GETTY

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

Vitality necklace in 20k yellow gold with diamonds; $38,000; Coomi; info@coomi.com; coomi.com

12

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

JEWEL BOX

The 1st Place Bridal Wear winner: Double the Love ring in 18k white gold and rhodium with a 12.62 ct. heartshape blue zircon, 0.75 ct. heart-shape diamond, and 1.53 cts. t.w. diamond pavé by Ricardo Basta of E. Eichberg Inc.

On Oct. 26, Phillips held its first New York watch auction, and, boy, it was a doozy. The Winning Icons: Legendary Watches of the 20th Century sale featured the Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona, Ref. 6239, an exotic dial version of the brand’s coveted car racing–inspired chronograph, nicknamed for the actor who became associated with the model in the 1980s. But this wasn’t just any Paul Newman.

It was the ur–Paul Newman, the legendary actor’s original timepiece. A gift from his wife, Joanne Woodward, the Rolex was the actor’s everyday watch from around 1969 until 1984, when he gave it to his daughter Nell’s then-boyfriend. It remained hidden from public view until it surfaced at Phillips in 2016.

Aurel Bacs of Bacs & Russo, which has partnered with Phillips on its watch auctions, describes the timepiece as one of the world’s “super-über grail watches.” As befits a legend, it sold for $17,752,500— making it the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction.

COLORED STONES #TourmalineTuesday went to a new level on Aug. 8, when the American Gem Trade Association revealed the winners of its Spectrum Awards. This year’s Best of Show: a pair of 53.56 cts. t.w. neon-blue tourmalines by Mikola Kukharuk of Nomad’s.

Blue was all over the annual colored-gem contest: Bright zircons, royal sapphires, rich lapis lazuli, pearlescent moonstones, watery aquamarines, and incandescent black and boulder opals shimmered invitingly among the 500 or so entries displayed at editors’ day in New York City. (“The imagination demonstrated,” says AGTA CEO Douglas K. Hucker, “was nothing short of jaw-dropping.”) Also popular: oval gems, convertible designs, and a pearl- and rubydotted tiara by Wendy Brandes that nearly everyone tried on—and Instagrammed.

JCKONLINE.COM

RING: BRIAN MOGHADAM PHOTOGRAPHY; NEWMAN: DOUGLAS KIRKLAND/CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES

WATCHES

1

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

2

13

3

MAJORS In August, Signet Jewelers paid $328 million for the owner of James Allen, generally considered the second-largest diamond e-tailer. The two have had a long-standing relationship: R2Net, James Allen’s owner, provides back-end support for Jared’s online sales. Signet CEO Gina Drosos said that not only will the purchase make Signet a bigger player in the e-tail world, but the company hopes to take advantage of James Allen’s diamonddisplay technology and success in reaching millennials.

A James Allen 14k yellow gold pavé halo engagement ring with 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds; $820 (without center stone)

4

KEMPER: DAVID LIVINGSTON/GETTY

AWARDS Our color-loving hearts couldn’t have been more thrilled with the rainbow of jewelry at the Sept. 17 Emmy Awards. Modern Family’s Sarah Hyland selected orange sapphires, fire opals, and rubies by Lorraine Schwartz. Susan Kelechi Watson (This Is Us) shimmered in beaded citrine chandeliers by Neil Lane. Jane Fonda rocked a Gismondi 1754 suite—including a backlace!—featuring 110 carats of emeralds. Big Little Lies producer-star Reese Witherspoon chose classic sapphire and ruby designs by David Webb.

Not that we have anything against diamonds! (See Zoë Kravitz’s classic but chic Tiffany & Co. necklaces, rings, earrings, and bracelet.) We just like to see more than white on the red carpet.

In September, Rembrandt Charms donated proceeds from sales of its 10 Texas charms to the Jewelers Disaster Relief Fund.

5

DISASTERS As the summer ended, the United States was walloped by a trio of hurricanes— Harvey, which hit Houston; Irma, mostly localized to Florida; and Maria, which ravaged Puerto Rico. To help retailers affected by these and future disasters, Jewelers of America, the Diamond Council of America, and National Jeweler have established the Jewelers Disaster Relief Fund (gofundme.com/ jewelersrelieffund). LUXURY, JCK Events, and JIS Events are fund partners.

Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt star Ellie Kemper in Lorraine Schwartz ruby and pink sapphire earrings NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

W

FROM THE EDITOR

14

Constellation cuff in 18k yellow gold with 1.74 ct. African paraiba tourmaline and 0.93 ct. t.w. diamonds; $35,000; Adam Foster Fine Jewelry; 314-771-3390; fosterjewelry.com

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

BUT AFTER READING “8 Hot Topics for 2018” (page 86), you might wonder where we get our intel. It’s not that the eight buzzworthy issues and trends we’ve noted as conversation starters in the upcoming year are shockingly new: Beads, for one, go back to the ancients. It’s that the jewelry and watch market is prone to revisiting its greatest hits, and we pride ourselves on recognizing them before everyone else does.

On that note, here’s the forecast in a nutshell: In addition to the aforementioned beads, we’re predicting that the pre-owned watch market, purple gems, category crossing, the De Beers moniker, YouTube, Gen Z, and the next iteration of selling—aka Retail 3.0—will rule 2018.

We didn’t include gold on that list, but only because it seemed too obvious. Of course the yellow metal is poised for another trendsetting year. To quell any nagging doubts, turn to our Spotlight, a two-parter that includes “Gilded Rage” (page 80) by Venessa Lau, mini-profiles of five designers fresh on the gold jewelry scene, and “For the Love of Gold” (page 72), a fashion feature that takes the notion of accessorizing to a whole new level.

You may have noticed that for the first time in forever, we’ve featured a man on our cover.

The handsome gent pictured with the beautiful

brunette bedecked in layers of lustrous chains also opens our men’s jewelry section on page 95. On page 97, you’ll find “A Man for All Seasons,” Martha C. White’s product-focused guide to male adornment for virtually any occasion. Special thanks to style blogger Marcel Floruss of One Dapper Street for showing us that being bejeweled and masculine is not a contradiction in terms!

On page 92, we explore the evolution of another occasionally contradictory concept: customer service. In “Great Expectations,” senior editor Emili Vesilind says there’s a reason the phrase “sends chills down many consumers’ backs: The term has become synonymous with impersonal corporate call centers, slick salesmanship, and mentally checked-out sales associates.” As a result, she continues, “brands have replaced the expression with the more holistic customer experience.”

That should hardly come as a surprise.

Experiences are a key to the new retail paradigm. And it starts with a spiffy-looking space.

In “The Ultimate Retail Wish List” (page 90)

by Danny Smith, we’ve got dozens of gift ideas for retailers who want to spruce up their stores or simplify their lives. The list does not include a crystal ball—but hey, that’s why we’re here.

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

e’re not psychics.

áǼżđ $PMMFDUJPO ϰ &MFWBUFE EFTJHO UJNFMFTT DPMMFDUJPOT ϰ 4UFSMJOH TJMWFS CFBVUJGVMMZ NBSSJFE XJUI ,

Ï° &YDFMMFOU TFMM UISPVHI SFTVMUT

XXX BOESFBDBOEFMB DPN

16

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 1

2

5

PRESENT PERFECT

Gray diamond slice articulated bracelet in 14k yellow gold; €2,595 ($3,098); Céline d’Aoust; 32-23-43-4318; celinedaoust.com

“Whether you want to save or splurge, these earthy, organic jewels are surefire holiday hits.”

—Melissa Rose Bernardo, JCK managing editor

Alteration ring with 7 cts. t.w. clear tourmaline and 0.05 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k rose gold; $1,848; Sirciam; 310-482-9602; sirciam.com

What JCK magazine’s MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO is loving this month

3

4 18k gold teardrop yellow sapphire stud earrings; $355; Page Sargisson; 212-629-7092; pagesargisson.com JCKONLINE.COM

Transformer earrings with emeralds, chrome diopside, diamonds, and detachable malachite drops in 14k gold; $4,000; Eden Presley; sales@ edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com

PORTRAIT: BRUCE GLIKAS

Mikado Flamenco bracelet with ocean jasper in 18k rose gold; $33,130; Tamara Comolli; ls@ tamaracomolli.com; tamaracomolli.com

,W·V WKH LFLQJ RQ WKH FDNH 6R 8QLTXH 6R (OHJDQW 6K\·V YLVLRQ RI EULGDO LV WKH ZD\ WR VD\ ´, GRµ )DOOLQJ LQ ORYH DQG SURSRVLQJ PDUULDJH LV D ZRQGHUIXO HPRWLRQDO H[SHULHQFH (DFK 6K\ ULQJ UHSUHVHQWV HYHUODVWLQJ ORYH LQ WLPHOHVV VW\OH IRU WKH RQH DQG RQO\ 6R 6D\ ´ , GRµ ZLWK 6K\ &UHDWLRQ

%HVW :LVKHV DQG +DSS\ +ROLGD\·V WR DOO RI RXU IULHQGV

&HQWXULRQ 6FRWWVGDOH -DQ WK WK ø 6DORQ 7R EHFRPH D EUDQG SDUWQHU WRGD\ FDOO RU YLVLW 6K\&UHDWLRQ FRP

H

FROM THE PUBLISHER

18

The GIA campus in Carlsbad, Calif., which I always visit for the GIA Jewelry Career Fair

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

HERE’S HOPING YOUR holiday selling has begun in earnest and things are going well!

Despite the craziness of these past few months in the nation and the world, the economy seems to be chugging along. Most surveys show jewelry retailers are bullish heading into the holidays, so fingers crossed for a fantastic season.

Speaking of bullishness and the jewelry industry, I had the pleasure of attending a very uplifting Stuller Bridge conference in Lafayette, La., in October. In contrast to the gloom-and-doom sentiments of recent years, most retailers felt pretty good about their business prospects heading into 2018.

One presentation—given by Stuller’s Harold Dupuy, vice president for strategic analysis— outlined some encouraging stats. Contrary to what I believed, jewelry sales are robust and growing! Even with a $7 billion drop during the recession, sales of jewelry went from $32 billion in 1996 to $85 billion in 2016. Jewelry is now sold at 91,000 U.S. locations, with 23,462 traditional jewelry stores. Bridal is a $10 billion business and represents between a third and a half of jewelry stores’ revenue.

Notwithstanding the challenges faced by traditional jewelry retailers (challenges facing all retail nationwide), U.S. consumers are buying more jewelry than ever! Retailers who can adapt

to a changing retail and technology landscape will still be able to have robust businesses.

The retailers at this year’s Stuller Bridge sessions epitomize this ability to change with the times. The same crowd who 10 years ago sat in the tech breakouts trying to get their heads around emerging technologies were now fully engaged in conversations about apps and social media platforms. Our industry adapts!

Following Stuller, I was off on a bicoastal Fort Lauderdale, Fla.–Los Angeles trip for the JIS show and GIA Jewelry Career Fair. Despite a last-minute move to Fort Lauderdale due to Hurricane Irma’s damage to Miami, JIS was a hit. Buyers came out in large numbers, and many exhibitors said it was their best JIS in years. Some noted that buyers from hard-hit Caribbean islands attended simply for a break, and they were touched that, under the circumstances, so many exhibitors came. Congratulations to Jordan Tuchband and his JIS team.

My annual GIA Career Fair/Jewelers 24 Karat Club of Southern California black-tie gala weekend was a blast, as always. Big congrats to the 24 Karat honorees: American Gem Trade Association’s Doug Hucker, A&Z Pearls’ Avi Raz, and the Bhindi family of Bhindi Jewelers.

Next up, 24 Karat Club weekend in January in New York City. See you in 2018!

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; GIA: COURTESY GIA

appy holidays!

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Proudly made in the USA Since 1951

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 148 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com U.S. ADVERTISING SALES

EDITORIAL

CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com Senior Editor / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com

FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, MONA QURESHI-HART, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors KEVIN CREMENS, RYANN FORD, KEN GUNMAKER, ETHAN HILL, NICOLE LAMOTTE, STEPHEN LEWIS, GAVIN O’NEILL, CODY PICKENS, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS, PATRIC SHAW, JOEL STANS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK PUBLISHED FOR REED EXHIBITIONS BY

VP, Content LIZ BUFFA

World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry

516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com

C I R C U L AT I O N Director, PubWorX / WENDY EDELSTEIN Subscriptions and Customer Service 800-305-7759 (North America) 515-247-2984 (other regions) PUBWORX Operations Account Manager PATRICIA NORNIELLA Premedia Account Manager ANNETTE FARRELL Digital Imaging Specialist JAIRO CORLETO

VP, Business Development MATT CHERVIN

Marketing Director / ALEXIS AINSCOUGH Account Director / HEATHER BOHL Art Director / ANDY ROSS Senior Designer / ROMAN KING Editorial & Marketing Associate / CASSIDY FORMAN One World Trade Center, Floor 28 New York, NY 10007 For content marketing inquiries, please call 212-286-7330 headline-studio.com HEADLINE STUDIO IS A DIVISION OF ADVANCE LOCAL

/ RANDY SIEGEL, PRESIDENT

SAFE

SECURE

PREVENT CRIMES AND OTHER DANGERS

AVOID RISK AND FEEL CONFIDENT

WITH ADVICE FROM

IN YOUR COVERAGE WITH EXPERIENCED

OUR LOSS PREVENTION EXPERTS.

UNDERWRITERS AND A RESPONSIVE CLAIMS TEAM.

SUCCESSFUL

SUPPORTIVE

PARTICIPATE IN OUR EXCLUSIVE

JOIN A MUTUAL COMPANY THAT INVESTS

JEWELER PROGRAMS THAT CAN HELP

MILLIONS OF DOLLARS TOWARD THE

GROW YOUR BUSINESS.

JEWELRY INDUSTRY’S PROSPERITY.

PROTECT YOUR BUSINESS. GROW YOUR BUSINESS.

JewelersMutual.com | 800-558-6411

Coverage offered by a member insurer of the Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group, Neenah, WI ©2017 Jewelers Mutual

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, LUXURY, JIS) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305 cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com

ISRAEL ITZCHAK ARIKHA P.O. Box 3237, Ramat Gan 52131, Israel 972-3-751-2165/6, fax 972-3-575-2201 galisaac@zahav.net.il THAILAND LAKKANA KONGCHUEN Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7299, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell 66-8-9452-4447 lakkana.kong@reedtradex.co.th

CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Industry Vice President KATIE DOMINESEY 203-840-5470 kdominesey@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive ANA CROSBY Renewals & Sponsorships: Currents, Diamond Plaza, Lab-Grown Diamond, Bridal, Key Accounts, First Look (A–L) 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com

Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive ALEXANDRA WURSTER International Companies & Pavilions (New & Returning); JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com

Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK JCK Las Vegas Luxury Privé NY Select Shows Centurion South Beach Celebrating 35 Years

Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Renewals & Sponsorships: Clockwork, Essentials & Tech, Security, Retail Experience, Gallery, Bridge, Sterling, First Look (M–Z), Vicenza 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive DANA KARP New Companies (A–L), Security; JCK magazine 203-840-5687 dkarp@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive BARBARA MURRAY New Companies (M–Z), Retail Experience 203-840-5305 bmurray@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Bridge (Renewals); JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager CHADAÉ BOWLER 203-840-5845 cbowler@reedjewelrygroup.com

L U X U R Y & S W I S S WAT C H E V E N T S Industry Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com

Marketing Manager MOLLY FITZPATRICK 203-840-5379 mfitzpatric@reedjewelrygroup.com

Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET LUXURY 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design @ LUXURY 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager HANNAH CONNORTON 203-840-5492 hconnorton@reedjewelrygroup.com

Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

Denny Bales

“I’m Denny Bales, the owner of Denny Bales Diamonds in Corpus Christi, Texas. I’ve been in the business for 35 years, 5 years at this store and 30 at my previous store.

I was told by several folks the Wilkerson company is one of the best.

I began chatting with Rick Hayes, who is one of the sweetest guys.

I talked to him so many times on the phone I felt like he was my very best friend.

4JODF UIFO XF WF DMPTFE UIF m STU TUPSF UISPVHI 8JMLFSTPO *U XBT an unbelievable success story. Our goal was $3.5 million and we exceeded it by $2 million, which was just phenomenal! I can’t think of one negative thing about that event. I would relive it 100 times.

“I couldn’t possibly recommend Wilkerson more. They’re the best.�

Denny Bales Denny Bales Diamonds Corpus Christi, TX

8F KVTU m OJTIFE UIF TFDPOE FWFOU BOE * JOTJTUFE UIBU UIF TBNF Wilkerson team come back because they did such an outstanding KPC PO UIF m STU FWFOU * KVTU DPVMEO U JNBHJOF IBWJOH BOZPOF FMTF even though I know Wilkerson has many top-notch associates. But everything we did proved to be quite successful and again, like the m STU FWFOU XF FYDFFEFE PVS HPBM DPOTJEFSBCMZ Everybody will put a lot of thought into making the decision about retiring, going out of business, or what type of sale to have at the very end. Since I’ve done this two times, maybe I’ve put more thought into it than a lot of folks. I couldn’t possibly recommend Wilkerson more. They’re the best. From top to bottom, Bobby Wilkerson on EPXO UIFZ SF m OF QFPQMF UIBU ZPV LOPX ZPV XPVME MPWF UP IBOH out with. If you get to the JCK show, go and visit them. They’re not the kind of people who are going to twist your arm. Their reputation speaks for itself.�

- Denny Bales

Contact us today for a free consultation!

Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999.

Or visit us at wilkersons.com.

BUZZ FROM TUCSON, VEGAS & MORE

INSIDER

DID YOU KNOW?

With 350+ days of sun per year, Tucson is one of the sunniest cities in the United States.

JCK TUCSON runs Jan.31–Feb. 3.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT tucson.jckonline.com.

SAPPHIRE FLY

Sisters Chau and Trang—who own the Edmonton, Alberta–based Paris Jewellers, with 28 locations throughout Canada—are on a mission: “to be Canada’s most customercentric retail jewelry brand.” To learn more about the second-generation entrepreneurs, including their core values (they start with sincerity), visit jckinsider.com/fullcircle.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.

TUCSON: DAVEL5957/E+/GETTY

NORTH FACES

Sapphire may officially be September’s birthstone, but at JCK, we’re obsessed with the gem all year round.

Visit jckinsider.com to see a dozen of contributing editor Brittany Siminitz’s favorites, including Butani earrings (top) and a Jye’s ring (above). We don’t know how she kept it to 12!

BEVERLEY K N O W STYLE

Beverley K knows...

Every woman has her own unique style. That’s why our fashion forward and classic bands offer your customers so many choices.

Available in white, yellow and rose gold, set with diamonds and precious gems, Beverley K bands dazzle the eye and the imagination. Worn alone or stacked, our meticulously handcrafted designs offer today’s woman unlimited options.

To learn more about these stylish pieces call 619-465-4789.

beverleyk.com • info@beverleyk.com • 619-465-4789

Genuine. Unique. Evocative.

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

ONLINE

@JCKMagazine JCKmagazine @jckmagazine @jckmagazine

INSTAGEM

FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH Looking to up your antique jewelry IQ? You’d do well to follow Christie’s Jewelry (@christiesjewels).

Ostensibly a platform for promoting its upcoming sales, the feed also features stunning, era-defining pieces from previous auctions that go way beyond your average gobstopper diamond ring.

Modern art–meets–statement necklace in this Alexander Calder silver design, made in 1942.

Boules des deux côtés d’un cylindre bangle (1968), in gold, by Belgian sculptor Pol Bury

Raymond Yard Art Deco dress clips, featuring diamonds, sapphires, and carved emeralds (circa 1925)

Eminently collectible gold and enamel bangles by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.

This Van Cleef & Arpels emerald and diamond necklace (1929) once belonged to an Egyptian princess.

More Deco delights! This enameled Verger Frères bracelet with chinoiserie elements is reversible.

MSRP $148-$398

Best sellers available for trunk shows and immediate shipment.

Info@EvocateurStyle.com 203.820.8786 | 203.956.0705 www.EvocateurStyle.com 22K Gold Leaf Handmade in the U.S.A. NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

“Because when you finally realize you can’t recycle the man, you can always recycle the ring and move on!”

— JCKonline reader savychic on “Millennials More Likely to Sell Engagement Rings” JCKONLINE.COM

SOCIAL DIARY

JEWELRY NIGHT OUT

28

THE SOCIAL NETWORK

1

In Denver, Facets Jewelry Consulting’s Nan Palmer (president of WJA Colorado), Abby Sparks of Abby Sparks Fine Jewelry, and Metamark’s Samantha Larkins

4

Stephanie Tsao of Glitter Rings and Ris Moeller of Mark Broumand at the Los Angeles event

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

Scout Mandolin’s Julie Simpson, Crystal Fair’s Jerry Tomlinson, and Little Bird Told You’s Danielle Mainas at Cambria Gallery in San Francisco

3 Pacific Northern’s Carolyn Bachmann, Lisa White, and Beth Peterson at the Dallas gathering

5

2

Line + Hue designer Nicki Gluckman and Luxury Brand Group’s Jen Cullen Williams in Los Angeles

6

GIA’s Nellie Barnett, Facet Force Gems’ Christine Lopez, Cal Coast Jewelry Appraisers’ Kathleen Turner, and GIA’s Amaris Chang and Joanna Joy Seetoo in San Diego

7

Hyde Park Jewelers’ Geri Roybal, sipping on the Colorado event’s signature cocktail, Winter in Siberia JCKONLINE.COM

2 & 4: KYLAGH ALAVIAN; 1 & 7: SARAH NEUMANN; 3: AUDRA SMITH

On Sept. 14, Women’s Jewelry Association chapters across the country staged a networking bonanza during the fifth annual Jewelry Night Out

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

31

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS Badgley Mischka featured these earrings with hematite plating, glass beads and stones, and raffia and yarn tassels.

COURTESY OF BADGLEY MISCHKA (2)

HOW DO YOU HUE?

G

UESTS FILING INTO the spring Calvin Klein show this year were treated to another overhead installation by artist Sterling Ruby—but this time, there were actual axes dangling from the ceiling. For the front-row guests teetering to their seats in vertiginous heels, it was unsettling. But also intriguing. And that was precisely the point.

Heeere’s Johnny!

The collection explored “American beauty and American horror,” according to Raf Simons, building on last season’s gaze at all-American tropes—Western shirts, varsity sweaters—but with a sinister undertone. So those denim separates? They came screen-printed with images from Andy Warhol’s Death and Disaster series. As one of the first shows on the New York Fashion Week calendar, would this portend the spring 2018 season to come?

In a way, it did. Many of the motifs here would become full-fledged trends: Americana popped up again and again (in addition to stripes, so many stripes, and a sprinkling of

Fringe, florals, and bold, saturated colors dominated the spring 2018 shows at New York Fashion Week

BY VENESSA LAU

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

stars). But lest you ready yourself for a nightmare on Seventh Avenue, we have good news: Designers largely chose to embrace the upbeat, buoyant aspect of these themes.

Color—and its beguiling combinations—was the big story of spring 2018, and it was served up with merry exuberance. There were beautifully saturated hues at Tom Ford (fuchsia! electric blue!) and Marc Jacobs (orange! lemon chiffon!), as well as an extravaganza of pretty pastels: Sies Marjan, Victoria Beckham, and Delpozo among them.

Pink, in all its optimistic shades, was especially prevalent— Rihanna’s Fenty x Puma show even featured a mound of sparkling hot-pink sand, over which motocross racers coolly flipped and somersaulted.

The message for the jewelry set was clear: Get happy… with your colors. We saw pink velvet chokers, with rhinestone buckles, at Calvin Luo; grand Millicent Rogers–style turquoise earrings at Hellessy; and emerald-green button styles at Beckham (looking especially lovely with a lilac pantsuit over a lilac blouse). Badgley Mischka’s standout tiered tassel and fanlike earrings, meanwhile, exuded the cheerful charm of the Capri-inspired lineup itself—in bright oranges, vibrant pinks, and sunny yellows.

Others hitched a celebration of the color spectrum to an art theme. Both Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta’s Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia worked the chic side of the Pollock paint splatter (read: more joyous, less CSI ).

The former—who showed at the Museum of Modern Art, a fashion first for the institution—accessorized with delightful multicolored beaded earrings (picture an explosion of rainbow sprinkles), while the latter, who presented at Sotheby’s, opted for doodle-like bracelets and floral danglers reminiscent of Matisse’s The Cut-Outs. Tibi’s Amy Smilovic also went abstract with sculptural ceramic earrings, done in collaboration with jewelry designers Paige Novick and Githan Coopoo.

Fringe, deliriously long and swishy, was a big theme at Calvin Klein—although it took a decidedly dark turn toward slasher territory, to say nothing of the oversize red pom-poms hanging from the ceiling along with tin buckets (hello, Carrie!). But who would have known that Simons’ swinging motif would come to capture the season’s sense of freedom? The look was particularly directional for runway jewelry, whether Sachin & Babi’s gargantuan tassels, Tracy Reese’s fringed beauties that streamed past the shoulders, Diane von Furstenberg’s hoops with hanging charms, 3.1 Phillip Lim’s quirky mismatched drops, or Marc Jacobs’ elaborate chandeliers. On the subtle side: Monse’s single string-like earrings, which fell on both sides of the lobe and were styled with long spaghetti-fringe skirts. It’s about movement: letting loose and having fun.

That refrain also matched spring’s overwhelmingly laidback vibe, which came through in über-relaxed silhouettes: tailoring with breathing room, floaty dresses, roomy shirting, and big ol’ sleeves. This new leisure life is filled with fresh blooms—florals were, per usual, a major motif—and island attitude: like at Michael Kors, who delivered ample NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

THE SCOOP

(Above and left) A Tasaki x Prabal Gurung gold South Sea pearl and diamond choker; (inset) Tibi’s ceramic creations

tie-dye, palm prints, and…leis. And while not everyone may want to partake in the beachy swimwear trend—bras as urban wear, bodysuits cut high on the sides (the better to flaunt those chiseled model hips!)—they can definitely dip into the trend with beachy bijoux: Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Rosie Assoulin, and Rebecca de Ravenel all showcased seashell-themed jewelry.

Additional trends spotted on the spring 2018 runways include the continuation of hoops (check out Fenty x Puma’s amusing yin-yang take), multiple piercings à la Christian Siriano and Zimmermann—“They’re like tattoos now; everyone has them,” remarks Paul Schneider, owner of Twist in Portland, Ore.—and a sleek minimalism reflecting the return of the ’90s, as seen in Ralph Lauren’s futuristic collars and Dion Lee’s curvilinear silver bracelets. Prabal Gurung’s newest status as global creative director of Tasaki, meanwhile, demonstrated that we can have our architectural simplicity and luxe opulence, too— he gave us contoured rings and necklaces alluringly accented with diamonds, sapphires, and pearls.

By Fashion Week’s end, one thing was clear: Beauty triumphed over horror. Sometimes an ax is just an ax.

JCKONLINE.COM

GURUNG RUNWAY: COURTESY OF PRABAL GURUNG; NECKLACE: JOANNA TOTOLICI FOR PRABAL GURUNG; TIBI MODEL: COURTESY OF TIBI

32

NEWS GEMS

THE SCOOP

amberif 25th International Fair of Amber, Jewellery & Gemstones

21-24.03.2018

What’s Clicking on JCKonline

GDAŃSK / POLAND amberif.pl

The top stories for September.

Don’t miss a headline or blog post!

Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline.com/newsletters/subscribe.

1 2 3

RING IN PINK GOLD WITH DIAMONDS, $1,800, SELIM MOUZANNAR; DUFFY: BETH WALSH

4 5

Here Are Pantone’s Color Picks for Spring 2018: Pantone’s spring shades are an alluring mash-up of acid brights and powdery shades that border on the pastel.

How the FBI Took Down a Gang of Really Bad Jewel Thieves: An FBI agent gave news director Rob Bates the inside scoop on how one group got caught.

Emmys Jewelry 2017— Cuffs, Colored Stones, and Diamond Statement Earrings Galore: JCK senior editor Emili Vesilind tracks the hottest looks from the red carpet.

Signet CEO Sees Independent Jewelers Turning Toward High-End: Virginia Drosos says that smaller jewelers are leaving the mid-market behind.

Florida Jeweler Wades Into Football Fracas: St. Petersburg, Fla.–based Diamonds Direct Fine Jewelers spoke out about kneeling players.

33%

“The U.S. is one of the biggest markets in the world.

There is a lot happening in retail.

Obviously, there are some challenges, but America doesn’t stand still for too long.”

—Aurum Holdings CEO Brian Duffy on the U.S. market. In August, Aurum paid $104.6 million to the Birks Group for 17-store chain Mayors.

Amount of female non-bridal diamond jewelry purchased by women for themselves, according to De Beers. That’s up from 23 percent in 2005.

JCKONLINE.COM

ambermart 19th International Amber Fair

06-08.09.2018 GDAŃSK / POLAND ambermart.pl organisation Gdańsk International Fair Co.

venue AMBEREXPO Exhibition & Convention Centre jewellery by Jarosław Westermark

NEWS GEMS

THE SCOOP

3 Questions for...

JCK LAS VEGAS

SUZANNE MIGLUCCI

M A N D A L AY B AY R E S O RT & C A S I N O A V9 xHfV ; B VZ "HV ɖɔɕɜʅ

JCK LAS VEGAS RETURNS TO ITS TRADITIONAL DATE PATTERN

FRIDAY, 7fB ɕ " MONDAY, 7fB ɘʃ ɖɔɕɜ

F O R I N F O R M AT I O N V I S I T : J CKO N L I N E.C O M/LASV EGAS

@JCKEVENTS

#J C K LASV E G AS THE PREMIER D EST I NAT I O N TO D I S COV E R W HAT’S N EW A ND W HAT’S N EX T I N T H E F I N E J EW E L RY MA RK ET

SUZANNE MIGLUCCI BECAME president and CEO of moissanite manufacturer and marketer Charles & Colvard in November 2015. She tells JCK why the North Carolina–based company has staked its future on millennials. —ROB BATES How do lab-grown diamonds affect your business?

It helps to have lab-created diamond companies talking about the value of lab-created diamonds. Five years ago we were up against mined diamonds and trying to validate lab-created products. Now I don’t have to educate the market on the value of lab-created.

You have said you want to target millennials in your marketing.

They will be the future of our growth.

When they leave college and have to get jobs and dress for success, we can help them with their fashion jewelry.

If they believe in moissanite, at that point we can convert them into bridal. What we like about millennials is they didn’t grow up with the diamond story, the De Beers ads that you and I grew up with. They are very eco-conscious. They want to know the story of the mines, they want to know the source of the metals that we use— that it’s all responsibly sourced.

What are the pros and cons of having Charles & Colvard’s patent on moissanite lapse (in 2015)?

Let me answer pro and pro. On the pro side, it has given more exposure for consumers. On the other pro, we have a 22-year head start on those competitors. We are seeing a lot of body color on their goods, but we are also seeing a lot of clarity issues. It has taken us 22 years to get to where we are. I’m not too worried.

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE 1@74 ;P]TOZ_ ZQ _SP -PL`_TQ`W .SLYRMLT 8Z`Y_LTY

HONORED

Debra Messing

Mikael Wallhagen

Jewelers of America announced that Will & Grace star—and jeweler’s daughter—Debra Messing will receive the GEM Award for Jewelry Style at the 16th annual GEM Awards gala on Jan. 19, 2018.

Sotheby’s has hired watch veterans Mikael Wallhagen and Tony Frank as it continues to add to its timepiece department. Both come from the Swedish auction house Bukowskis.

COMINGS AND GOINGS

Veteran watch journalist Joe Thompson has joined Hodinkee, the popular online watch publication. He previously served as editor-in-chief of American Time and got his start at JCK.

"¢ £ p& ¢ £ p/ %6/)6" $)*/"

Antonio Seward Antonio Seward has been appointed North American CEO of watch brand Audemars Piguet, effective Aug. 1. Most recently, he served as Audemars Piguet’s general manager for Southeast Asia.

MESSING: ABBEY DRUCKER

Philadelphia-based Govberg Jewelers has appointed Claudio Terjanian director of retail, a new role for the company. He has more than 15 years of watch industry experience, including seven years at the Franck Muller Group.

Scott Sedlacek, former vice president of merchandising at Reeds Jewelers, joined ALTR Created Diamonds and R.A. Riam Group as president of sales and business development.

JCKONLINE.COM

Diana Nichols

Philadelphia-based jewelry brand Lagos has promoted sales director Diana Nichols to the role of vice president of sales. Nichols has been with the company since December 2014.

?SP [P]TOZ_ XTYP bT_S _SP bZ]WO ^ WL]RP^_ aP]TQTPO ]P^P]aP^

?SP bZ]WO ^ QT]^_ [P]TOZ_ X`^P`X

Stephen Watson has been appointed

editor-in-chief of Watch Journal, as well as watch and jewelry editor for its publisher, Surface Media.

Hal Lawton, a former vice president of eBay, has been named the new president of Macy’s. He was most

recently senior vice president of eBay North America.

?SP bZ]WO ^ QT]^_ [P]TOZ_ []ZO`N_TZY PY_P][]T^P _Z NZXMTYP Pc_]LN_TZY []ZNP^^TYR ^LWP^ LYO _PNSYTNLW NZY^`W_TYR bbb Q`WT[P]TOZ_ NZX

5.6 ?`N^ZY -ZZ_S 9Z $

NEWS GEMS

36

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE Signed Fred Leighton aquamarine and diamond dart earrings

Sean Gilbertson was appointed CEO of Gemfields, replacing Ian Harebottle, following Pallinghurst Resources’ purchase of the gemstone miner. He is the son of Pallinghurst founder/veteran mining executive Brian Gilbertson.

Former Mountain Province Diamonds CEO Patrick Evans is the new CEO of Canadian diamond miner Dominion Diamond Corp., following its sale to Washington Companies.

ASSOCIATIONS The Natural Color Diamond Association (NCDIA) has launched NCDIA Asia, in cooperation with the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences. AIGS president Barbara Wheat will head the group.

REMEMBERED Legendary estate and red-carpet jeweler Fred Leighton died July 26 at 85. Born Murray Mondschein, he bought a Mexican dress store in Manhattan in the 1960s named after its former owner. By the 1980s, he had become so identified with that name that he legally changed his to Leighton.

Working forward to lasting memories and customer loyalty.

Every jewelry retailer is different, but all share a common ambition: to succeed. And it starts by

Tony Roskin, former owner of Marion, Ind., store Gilbert Roskin Jewelers and father of International Colored Gemstone Association executive director Gary Roskin, died July 1 of complications from cancer. He was 97.

serving customers better. Synchrony Financial delivers payment solutions that help drive traffic, increase average transaction size, and build repeat business. Whatever you’re working forward to, we can help make it happen.

Engage with us at synchronybusiness.com/luxury

William George Shuster, who

or 1-855-433-3772.

What are you working forward to?

chronicled the watch and jewelry industry for 29 years for JCK, died Aug. 30 of complications from diabetes. He was 71.

Credit is extended by Synchrony Bank © 2017 Synchrony Financial

NEWS GEMSNEWS GEMS

GEM PRICING

MARKET SEES SLOWDOWN IN THE MIDDLE IN THE U.S., sapphire leads demand in the colored stone market. The demand for ruby is also good and is supported by lower prices than a year ago. Customers are buying highend material as well as price-point-driven commercial goods.

Midlevel goods, however, are slow. Dealers expressed caution recently regarding the lack of interest in jewelry relative to other products. Some traders are realizing the industry has stumbled in promoting colored stones. The palette of gems is more robust than it’s been in decades, yet the messaging is muted, with interest chiefly limited to established clients.

Among this season’s bright spots: Look for tourmalines and garnets presenting contrasting color combinations.

Aquamarine is also positioned well, as are blue and cognac zircons. Popular shapes are cushion and oval. Beads are also expected to be strong, with earth tones particularly popular.

VS1

VS2

37 SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant

FINE

Alexandrite

G

$6,800

$6,320

$5,700

$4,720

H

$6,080

$5,800

$5,450

$4,470

I

$5,700

$5,200

$4,950

$4,000

J

$4,900

$4,500

$4,080

$3,760

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

Rhodolite Garnet 1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round

Rubellite Tourmaline

G

$3,570

$3,200

$2,700

$2,340

H

$3,200

$3,000

$2,600

$2,270

I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

Tsavorite Garnet 1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)

G

$12,200

$11,300

$9,350

$7,600

H

$10,300

$10,000

$8,300

$7,150

I

$9,700

$7,900

$7,600

$6,725

J

$7,200

$7,300

$6,400

$6,000

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline 2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut

Pink Sapphire

G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

$6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

J

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

The Perfect Gifts for Any Budget, As Easy as 1-2-3!

The World’s largest charm collection in sterling silver and gold.

1.

Choose a bracelet.

2.

Find charms that capture memories.

3.

Create the perfect gifts at any price point!

What Retailers Are Saying: “Rembrandt Charms® has given us the opportunity to see generations of our customers come together over these impeccable charms. People buy these for themselves, for their children, and for their grandchildren, all of whom always come back for more. We are lucky enough to have this happen in our store because of Rembrandt Charms®.”

Under $50 #5302 $18.50

Same Day Shipping & Engraving!

Under $100 #20-0106 $19.50

#20-0117 $41.50

#2274 $29.50

#2335 $27.50

-David Ekstra, Holsten Jewelers This inventory controlled Floor Display generates an average of $5,500 in sales per square foot, and saves over 7 feet of showcase space!

C O N TA C T US TO L EA R N M O RE !

RembrandtCharms.com Orders@RembrandtCharms.com p.800-828-7840 • f.800-828-7811

12 Days of Christmas Bracelet

Sterling Silver – $477.50

10 Karat Gold – $3,450

14 Karat Gold – $4,730

38

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR

U.S.

• NOVEMBER

• DECEMBER

24–26

1–3

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

DALLAS CHRISTMAS BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW

8–10

BATON ROUGE JEWELRY AND MERCHANDISE SHOW

Baton Rouge, La. helenbrett.com

Grapevine, Texas

GEM FAIRE

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

GEM FAIRE

gemfaire.com

intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

San Mateo, Calif. intergem.com

Southfield, Mich.

25–26

GEM FAIRE

Monterey, Calif. gemfaire.com

30–DEC. 3

JEWELRY, FASHION & ACCESSORIES SHOW Schaumburg, Ill. jfashow.com

aksshow.com

Costa Mesa, Calif. gemfaire.com

Los Angeles

intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

White Plains, N.Y. intergem.com

2–4

GREENSBORO GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW

Santa Barbara, Calif.

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Chicago

intergem.com

9–10

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Memphis, Tenn. americanbead shows.com

15–17

GEM FAIRE San Diego

gemfaire.com

Greensboro, N.C. gtshows.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Chantilly, Va. intergem.com

PALM BEACH ART, ANTIQUE & DESIGN SHOW Lake Worth, Fla. pbfallshow.com

29–31

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

Fort Lauderdale, Fla. intergem.com

5–7

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Lakeland, Fla. glwshows.com

OKLAHOMA WINTER BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Oklahoma City

8–9

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Las Vegas iwjg.com

Santa Rosa, Calif. gemfaire.com

TANZANITE Earrings in 18k black gold with 22 cts. t.w. tanzanite, 13 cts. t.w. sapphire, and 0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds; $15,000; Sutra; 713-9844987; sutrajewels.com

• JANUARY

GEM FAIRE

December Birthstone

9–10

1–3

GEMIN

21–25

Athens, Greece

glwshows.com

Manama, Bahrain

MINERALIEN HAMBURG

Asheville, N.C.

JEWELLERY ARABIA jewelleryarabia.com

30–DEC. 3

5–8

JMA HONG KONG

PHILADELPHIA GIFT SHOW

Hong Kong

jewelryshows.org/en

Oaks, Pa.

• DECEMBER

philadelphia giftshow.com

CITRINE

• NOVEMBER

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS

aksshow.com

November Birthstone

INTERNATIONAL

7–9

gemin.eu

22–25

JAIPUR JEWELLERY SHOW Jaipur, India

jaipurjewellery show.org

Hamburg, Germany

• JANUARY

13–17

5–7

Moscow

Ahmedabad, India

mineralien-hamburg.de

BEST ADORNMENTS OF RUSSIA eng.rjexpert.ru

GUJARAT GOLD JEWELLERY SHOW ggjs.co.in

ACCESSORIE CIRCUIT + ACCESSORIES THE SHOW

New York City

GET READY FOR…

ubmfashion.com

Galaxy collection Spectra earrings in yellow gold with 21.78 cts. t.w. citrine and 0.39 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,280; Arya Esha; 305-812-4986; aryaesha.com

JCK TUCSON

JANUARY 31–FEBRUARY 3 JCKONLINE.COM

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

41

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK CONSIGNING WOMEN

Joint Venture Jewelry’s Jen Hankin on her store’s unique business model

JEN HANKIN Joint Venture Jewelry jointventure jewelry.com Instagram: @jointventurenc

N

BY EMILI VESILIND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JILLIAN CLARK

ORTH CAROLINA’S BUSTLING Research Triangle region is jammed with fantastic jewelry stores. But for brides and grooms in the market for a well-curated selection of unique rings, Joint Venture Jewelry in Cary, N.C., has become something of a mecca.

The family-owned consignment store, which Donna and Lee Hankin founded in 1998, is stocked with 30 to 50 vintage and estate engagement rings—and another hundred modern pre-owned rings—on any given day.

Now, the couple’s two daughters, Jen and Karly, have stepped into the mix and masterminded another compelling reason for millennials and Gen Zers to stop by. In 2012, Joint Venture—led by the two 20-somethings—debuted a sibling store, Peachy Keen, that specializes in fashion apparel, shoes, and accessories for style-conscious locals.

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

42

“Every salesperson is trained for the entire store. We want people to be able to work with the same person to create an entire look.”

—Jen Hankin

The outpost shares the same 3,200square-foot space with Joint Venture, and Jen, the director of communications, says the two concepts work hand in hand. “A lot of my clients who wouldn’t necessarily step into a jewelry store would come in to shop clothes,” she says. “But then they mosey over to the jewelry, and they suddenly can’t leave without that ring or bracelet.”

How does being a consignment store make you different from other fine jewelry stores?

Instead of going to a pawnshop or scraping out your gold, you can bring it to us. Then you can shop for something great. Customers who like the idea of “reduce, reuse, recycle” really like us.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

What are the most requested jewelry items or categories?

Vintage engagement rings. Modern brides don’t want what their friends have, and they love…the filigree metal and old mine-cut and rose-cut diamonds. The sweet spot for rings for us is in the $2,000 to $6,000 range.

How did Peachy Keen come to be?

Karly went to school for fashion at the Savannah College of Art and Design.

My background is in communications.

Dad is a GIA-trained jeweler, and my mom was in the corporate world for years, so she has that business savvy.

Combining all of our skill sets, we knew we could run this concept: a one-stop shop for fashion for women.

You mentioned that customers will come in and shop both sides—how do you promote that practice?

We have jewelry cases on one side, a permanent fashion runway in the middle of the store—we throw charity fashion shows twice a year—and Peachy Keen on the other side. So the foot traffic moves across the entire space. And every salesperson is trained for the entire store; they’re typically young women interested in fashion that have a styling background that we then train in the jewelry.

Where do you source your jewelry?

Around 75 percent comes from individuals off the street. They bring in that inherited collection from a grandma or an aunt. They will take the one piece they love that reminds them of their loved one, then they consign the rest with us. We also work with dealers who travel around the world collecting pieces. We like to do shows with vintage vendors; we worked with a gentleman who doesn’t have a store-

front but is a concierge jeweler in New York City. He brought us 300 pieces to retail in the store for a week this year.

Clients came in and met him and had cocktails while he told stories about several of the pieces. They loved it.

You spearhead Joint Venture’s superstrong online presence. How has social media changed your business?

I made it my mission, when I started, to keep the store relevant and current.

We’re on all the social platforms. It’s crazy keeping up with everything—but it’s so worth it. I hear people say they follow us, and that’s what brought them in. You can’t be a mom-and-pop store that opens its doors and says “Come on in” anymore. You have to go out and reach for your clients.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER

JCKONLINE.COM

STILLS: COURTESY JOINT VENTURE

Joint Venture vintage: (above) a 1.6 ct. mine-cut diamond engagement ring with accent diamonds; (right) a 1.21 ct. sapphire and mine-cut diamond ring

SHOP TALK

RETAIL THERAPY

STOCK TO MARKET

BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: What brands or products do you stock to attract the male self-purchaser?

A: Rolex is probably No. 1

SEAN DUNN VICE PRESIDENT/ CO-OWNER J.R. DUNN JEWELERS Lighthouse Point, Fla. jrdunn.com

on that list. It’s like a magnet for guys. They just kind of float over to the Rolex section no matter what their significant other is doing. We also have an unbelievable selection of men’s jewelry—William Henry is one of our top brands. Guys become intrigued by it because of the limited-production items they’ll do. And once they get collecting pieces, we have some guys who will kind of binge on it!

KATHY COREY CO-OWNER DAY’S JEWELERS Waterville, Maine daysjewelers.com

A: For executives, classic

timepieces by Shinola and Movado have done well in our stores. Leather straps are especially popular. Men who want to express their lifestyles or passions like sport watches from Movado, G-Shock, or Reactor.

Jewelry from Hollis Bahringer and Lashbrook’s men’s bands are also popular.

A: Watches are definitely the

most popular item for selfpurchasing males. We have a lot of guys who like to come in and look at our vintage and previously owned pieces—from brands including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Franck Muller, Omega, Panerai, and Hublot. We have one male customer who comes to check out our collection of jade; he rarely leaves without four or five pieces. Personally, I love brooches. I wear one every time I wear a sport coat, and it makes me happy to see more men appreciating a brooch or a cameo.

JOSEPH DENABURG FOURTH-GENERATION JEWELER LEVY’S FINE JEWELRY Birmingham, Ala. levysfinejewelry.com

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

RYAN KRASNER CO-OWNER HAROLD STEVENS San Diego haroldstevens.com

A: I carry two unique

designers—Todd Reed and Alishan—who both create distinctive, masculine designs.

Their jewelry is recognizably different, especially in a category that’s not known for creative style. The artisanal feel of both brands also resonates well with the Southern California man.

JCK SHOW & TELL

at the Jew

sW

Oasis

T H E J C K T U C S O N S H OW CO M E S AT A N E S S E NT I A L T I M E O F YE A R F O R B U YE R S TO STO C K U P A FT E R T H E H O L I DAYS .

T H E BAC K D R O P O F T H E T U C S O N D E S E RT, CO M B I N E D W I T H A N E C L E CT I C M I X O F V E N D O R S A N D I N S P I R I N G, R E L A X I N G EV E NTS M A K E I T T H E P E R F E CT B U Y I N G T R I P F O R A L L W H O AT T E N D. J O I N U S AT T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y ’ S WINTER OASIS ON JANUARY 31

F E B R UA RY 3 TO R EC HA RG E A ND R ESTO C K.

Gems

D k Cel

Yoga with JFC

O ve r 4 0 0 o f t h e i n d u st r y ’ s f i n e st u n i t e d o n J W

Show your support for Jewelers for Children and

of sprawling, desert mountains for an evening filled

rejuvenate your mind and body surrounded by

with stargazing, cocktails, hors d’oeuvres and great

the natural beauty and serenity of the Sonoran

company. Gems After Dark is quickly becoming the

Desert. *$10 requested donation per session

can’t miss industry event of the winter.

to JFC.

Marriott’s Ania Lawn Terrace taking in the beauty

FEBRUARY 1 FROM 6:00PM �8:00PM. FEBRUARY 1�2 FROM 7:30AM � 8:30AM.

M Morning Hikes E n j o y t h e b e a u t i f u l Tu c s o n landscape and start your days w i t h a So u t h w e st H i k i n g To u r o f t he Sonora D e se r t.

6:30AM � 7:30AM EACH M O R N I N G O F T H E S H O W.

Tequila Toasts J o i n u s fo r t h e p e r fe c t e n d t o e a c h s u c c e s s f u l d a y a s w e celebrate with old friends and new friends - “we are al l related.”

6 : 0 0 � 7 : 0 0 P M E A C H D AY O F T H E S H O W.

From loose gem stones, mountings, and technology to fine finished jewelry and one-of-a-kind collections, JCK Tucson has it all. Below is a sneak peek of some of the new and returning designers that are #JCKTucsonbound!

M JCK Tucson Debut

JCK Tucson V

EDUARDO SANCHEZ

IO COLLECTIVE

ALEX SEPKUS

J E W E LY R I E

LESLEY AINE MCKEOWN

ANNE SPORTUN

W. B R I T T

F U L I P E R I DOT

JS NOOR

...and many

DORIAN & ROSE

H A N G F O N G O PA L

IKEDA PEARL

e!

T O R E G I S T E R & AT T E N D J C K T U C S O N, V I S I T: T U C S O N. J C KO N L I N E . C O M / A DV E RT O R I A L FOLLOW @JCKEVENTS

jckinsider.com

# J C K Tu c s o n

SHOP TALK

46

STORE WE ADORE

1807 NINTH AVE. N. NASHVILLE, TENN.

E

CONSIDER THE WLDFLWRS

A 26-year-old jewelry designer takes a chance on Nashville’s growing fashion scene to open her own showroom

BY KRISTIN LUNA PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICHOLAS McGINN

IGHT YEARS AGO, Emily Eggebrecht moved from St. Louis to Nashville to pursue a career in music, an all too familiar story—but one with a different happy ending. During her senior year at Belmont University, Eggebrecht changed from music education to study religion and the arts; simultaneously, she decided to build a small jewelry collection, Consider the Wldflwrs, to sell online, intending to work for a fashion-for-cause company postgraduation. That also didn’t pan out.

Now, Eggebrecht is the force behind one of Nashville’s most beloved jewelry brands.

THE APPRENTICE Prior to 2013, Eggebrecht had no experience with jewelry. In college, she worked at The Cosmetic Market; she confesses to “loving the business side” and thought that might be her forte. Like many millennials, Emily taught herself via YouTube; she started with wire-wrapping, then moved on to metalsmithing. Just before graduation, she did her first craft fairs—Porter Flea in Nashville and Renegade Craft Fair in Brooklyn, N.Y.—with finals sandwiched in between. Then, serendipitously, a jeweler, Christina Kober, offered to mentor her. “I was very ready to give up,” recalls Eggebrecht, who was giving voice lessons and working for a snow-cone truck. “She took me under her wing.” Eggebrecht took classes at the New Approach School for Jewelers in Franklin, Tenn., and later graduated from the GIA. CTWF “is about sharing and telling stories,” says Emily Eggebrecht (with husband Ben, the marketing director).

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

HITTING A HIGH NOTE In late 2015, Eggebrecht worked her final craft fair in Chicago, where she met a gemologist who would help introduce her diamond services. (Wedding rings are a focal point of CTWF.) After working out of a couple of different shared spaces, Eggebrecht, now a certified bench jeweler and stone setter, opened her own studio JCKONLINE.COM

47

“Tennessee has the prettiest flowers. That was an inspiration—delicate, timeless, pretty pieces.”

—Emily Eggebrecht

and storefront in February 2017 in a development that also houses design brands Nisolo and Emil Erwin. The new showroom, airy and adorned, naturally, with floral accents, allowed Eggebrecht to expand her team—including her husband, Ben, the brand’s marketing director—and her offerings; she carries products from other designers, including Christina Kober Designs, Ariel Gordon Jewelry, Anna Sheffield, and Kasia. Given her musical background, incorporating an “intentional” sensory experience was integral for the entrepreneur. “We have music in the background that is calming, relaxing, and unrecognizable,” she explains. “We’re creating memories, and the last thing we want is for someone to hear a song with a sad memory attached to it.”

IN BLOOM Consider the Wldflwrs’ name stems from Eggebrecht’s favorite Bible verse, Luke 12:27, which Eggebrecht says pays homage to the different seasons of life. “When you’re growing up, you think, ‘I’m not pretty enough’ or ‘I’m not smart enough.’ That verse always reminded me that God says, ‘No, you are good enough,’ ” she says. “When I was graduating, I was feeling that weight that I wasn’t going to amount to anything because I’d switched paths so many times. It was a reminder that I could do this.” Philanthropy has always been a passion, prompting Eggebrecht to travel to Honduras twice a year to teach jewelry-making to the locals; she sells some of those products in the shop. “We used to give a huge amount of our profits away,” she says, “but now we focus more on giving others tools to better their own lives.”

CTWF is broken up by price points, with studs and casual pieces starting at $35. Alternative engagement rings start around $1,500.

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

0DUNHW 6WHHW WK )ORRU � 6DQ )UDQFLVFR &$ � 7HO � � )D[

ZZZ KHUFR FRP � (PDLO LQIR#KHUFR FRP

49

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK 1

2

3

4 LOCKS &

These gem-encrusted contemporary twists on the portable picture holder are part charm, part statement. You’re bound to become attached!

BONDS

1/ Padlock necklace in 18k yellow gold with multicolored sapphires; $23,500; Polly Wales; 646-7456831; pollywales.com

2/ Quinn blue sapphire locket in 14k recycled yellow gold; $2,560; Ila; 713-780-2828; ilacollection.com

3/ Diamond padlock in sterling silver and 18k yellow gold, $25,500 (chain sold separately); Sevan Biçakçi; simone @vpnyc.com; sevanbicakci.com JCKONLINE.COM

5

4/ Sorcerer Crystal locket with mixed sapphires and diamond in 18k yellow gold; $11,500; Temple St. Clair; 800-590-7985; templestclair.com

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

5/ Blue-green tourmaline locket in 18k yellow gold and black steel chain; $29,500; Monica Rich Kosann; 800-251-3141; monicarichkosann.com

THE LOOK

RED CARPET

50

EMMY GLOSS Handmaid’s Tale red was the night’s big fashion winner

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

NICOLE KIDMAN

Always a knockout on the red carpet, Kidman certainly didn’t disappoint at the 69th Primetime Emmy Awards.

For Big Little Lies’ big night, the series’ star—and best actress winner— stunned in a silk halter-style Calvin Klein by Appointment gown with a fitted bodice and flared tea-length skirt. (Not pictured: her playful pink crystal-studded strappy sandals.)

Topping it all off: $2 million worth of Harry Winston platinum-set diamond jewels, including pear-shape drop earrings and a link bracelet.

Diamond links bracelet, 35.16 cts. t.w., in platinum; price on request; Harry Winston; 800-988-4110; harrywinston.com

EDIE FALCO

The four-time Emmy winner (and 13-time nominee!)—who’s currently starring in Law & Order True Crime: The Menendez Murders— looked elegant and chic in a classic one-shoulder cut gown with sculptural details. Her other classic choice: delicate but substantial diamond jewels. Falco was in excellent company in red on the red carpet. Heidi Klum, Issa Rae, Gina Rodriguez, Sarah Hyland, Yvonne Strahovski, and Gillian Anderson were among the other actresses who selected the shade.

UNDER $20,000

UNDER $20,000

Beacon Stud earrings in brass with glass stones; $225; Lulu Frost; ashlee@lulufrost. com; lulufrost.com

Baguette Essential link bracelet with 5.8 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $19,950; Shay; 646-745-6831; shayfinejewelry.com

14k white gold and diamond chain link bracelet; $3,650; Anne Sisteron; rachel@ annesisteron.com; annesisteron.com NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

UNDER $5,000

Exquisite diamond earrings with 3.43 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $16,750; Graziela Gems; 773-619-3999; grazielagems.com

UNDER $500

JCKONLINE.COM

KIDMAN: © STARTRAKSPHOTO.COM; FALCO: KEVIN MAZUR/GETTY

18k white gold earrings with 15.6 cts. t.w. diamonds (similar to Edie Falco’s); $26,200; Butani; info@butani. com; butani.com

THE LOOK

Q&A

52

Asks...

EVA ZUCKERMAN X marks the spot for the designer behind the diamond-heavy Eva Fehren brand

IF YOU KNOW the X ring, you know Eva Fehren. The oftimitated design was (and still is) at the forefront of the minimalist, geometric fine jewelry trend, where Fehren’s styles reign supreme. A few years ago, the brand moved into bridal with Eva Fehren White, a collection of edgy alternative engagement and wedding rings. The most popular piece? The first, appropriately named the Premier. “I love its sharp architecture structure and its clean, modern lines,” says designer Eva Zuckerman. Next up: reworking “some of our favorite statement diamond-centric trillion pieces in all black diamond,” Zuckerman says. “I love them because they feel extremely graphic.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: A lady never tells.

Number of years in the biz: Ten, but Eva Fehren was established six years ago.

Number of employees you oversee: Six. Family and pets: I have my parents, Edith and Roy, my sister, Nina, and a cat named Chicken.

Describe your personal style: My jewelry style is minimal, tough, delicate, and feminine. My clothing style is more Goth ragamuffin with diamond accents.

First piece you ever designed: The X ring was the first piece in my collection and was a foundational piece for the brand.

The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: See above!

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

The X ring in 18k rose gold with pale champagne diamond pavé

The Premier in 18k blackened white gold with 1.63 ct. round white diamond

Favorite cut of diamond: Portrait cut.

They are elusive and understated. I love how they mimic the look of glass.

Best piece of advice you ever received: “First idea, best idea.”

Worst piece of advice: I try to forget most of what other people tell me to do unless it’s really good.

First job ever: Working for my parents at their Temporary Tattoo and Cosmetics Company (Temptu).

I used to design tattoos and do body painting at events.

How did you get started designing jewelry? I was trained as a fine artist and studied painting at Cooper Union in New York City.… When I graduated from Cooper, I became fascinated with jewelry design as I felt it reflected my personal tastes and sense of style. I met Philip Crangi a few months later and started assisting him with design at Giles & Brother.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing?

I think I would be an interior designer.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Our rose gold and champagne diamond line bracelet, 1 mm huggies, my “E” initial pendant, a tiny trillion stud, rose gold dagger studs, and a zipper ear cuff.

Items on your desk right now: My Moleskine sketchbook, a pencil, a pile of stones, my calipers, and neon pink tape.

Songs on your playlist: “This Woman’s Work,” Kate Bush; “I’m the One,” DJ Khaled feat. Justin Bieber; “Mercury,” Sufjan Stevens; “Trick or Treat Dancefloor,” Cherry Glazerr.

Exercise regimen: Pilates, running for the subway, walks over the Williamsburg Bridge.

What did you have for breakfast? Green smoothie. Iced tea.

Guilty pleasure: The Great British Bake Off marathons.

Drink (daytime/evening): Iced tea/Paloma.

Scent: Fleurs d’Oranger by Serge Lutens.

How do you unwind? Drawing.

Book you’re reading: Just Kids, Patti Smith.

Book you’ve been meaning to get to: War and Peace, Leo Tolstoy.

Favorite movie: Velvet Goldmine.

Who would play you in your life story? Ideally, one of the Olsen twins.

Personal motto: “Go big or go home.”

JCKONLINE.COM

DRINK: KARANDAEV/GETTY; THE GREAT BRITISH BAKING SHOW: VICKI COUCHMAN/LOVE PRODUCTIONS/EVERETT COLLECTION; JUST KIDS: COURTESY ECCO/HARPERCOLLINS; VELVET GOLDMINE: MIRAMAX/EVERETT COLLECTION

The Hex XX ring in 18k blackened white gold with a 0.52 ct. portrait-cut diamond

Finishing Touches at Stuller.com When things get busy this holiday season, turn to Stuller.com for • Next-day delivery • 24/7 access to the broadest inventory anywhere • Curated trends for easy selling Get what you need at Stuller.com today.

Stuller.com | 800 877 7777

An American Wedding Deserves An American Made Band TM

www.hooverandstrong.com 800-759-9997

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

PROFILES IN JEWELRY

ART AND COMMERCE

GO BEHIND THE GEMS WITH YOUR FAVORITE BRANDS

N

LIES

WHAT

W

E

AHEAD

2018

S E O , S O C I A L M E D I A M A R K E T I N G , A N D T R E N D S S U C H A S Y E L L OW G O L D A N D C O L O R E D S TO N E S W I L L D O M I N AT E T H E R E TA I L J E W E L RY L A N D S C A P E . A N D D O N ’ T F O RG E T A B O U T T H O S E A L L - P OW E R F U L M I L L E N N I A L S !

by Martha C. White

S

57

A

s the jewelry industry looks ahead to 2018, there are plenty of changes on the horizon. Owners, executives, and experts express optimism even as they contend with disruptions ranging from technology to trends.

Here are the new ideas and top priorities they’re embracing for the coming year.

MARKETING DOMINATED BY SOCIAL AND SEARCH

Corey, co-owner and vice president of marketing at Day’s Jewelers, which is headquartered in Waterville, Maine, and has seven stores across Maine and New Hampshire. “The opportunities today with social networks are tremendous,” he adds. “You can deliver multiple messages to multiple demographics.”

Many jewelers turn to the trinity of social channels—Pinterest, Facebook, and Instagram—to stimulate demand. “That’s the only way to create that desire,” says Lynn McCary Thomas, co-owner and president at McCary’s Jewelers in Shreveport, La. But there’s much more to digital advertising than social media. “We’re also working with influencers,” says Scott Berg, president of Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry, with stores in Louisiana, Mississippi, and Texas, of the social-media marketing technique. “We have a network of people and make sure they’re out there promoting our jewelry.”

The digital domain is increasingly important for reaching customers and delivering messaging that will resonate with shoppers. That begins with establishing a web presence, but merely having a website is not enough.

“We worked hard on improving the functionality of our site because we believe a client wants to engage on your website in a manner that’s convenient,” says Lane Schiffman, co-owner of Schiffman’s, headquartered in Greensboro, N.C., with 11 stores in four states. “We’re E-COMMERCE AS A DRIVER producing blogs and content that are FOR IN-STORE SALES genuinely interesting to our clientele.”

Although e-commerce has been Increasingly, investing in an online around for decades, jewelry retailers presence means getting a handle on have been slow to adopt the practice. search engine optimization, aka SEO, Now, however, more are realizing that according to Shane O’Neill, vice preshaving an online sales platform can —Jeff Corey, Day’s Jewelers ident at Fruchtman Marketing in be beneficial—as much for its role in Toledo, Ohio. facilitating in-person sales as for sell“One of the things that’s old but ing online. now new is SEO,” he says, adding that search is growing in importance because “The actual transactional revenue is not the critical aspect of the online segmore customers do online research prior to shopping, and many use their mobile ment; it’s the influence on upcoming purchasing decisions that really impacts,” devices to find physical stores near them. “Fifty-plus percent of traffic is coming says Harold Dupuy, vice president of strategic analysis at Lafayette, La.–based from mobile devices to websites, and that’s all led by search. And now you’ve got Stuller Inc. “Online has a direct impact on consumers’ buying decisions.” much more competition at local levels.”

The big question: How can jewelers track the customers who come into their Social media advertising helps jewelers cut through the clutter because these store after spending time on their site? platforms give brands the tools to target the most receptive consumers, says Jeff Sophisticated technology capable of performing this kind of tracking does exist,

“Colored gemstones give us a great opportunity to attract younger females to our store. They’re unique— there’s a story behind them.”

(Opposite page) Dancing in the Rain ring in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $1,401; Nanis; america@nanis.it; nanis.it

9.93 ct. Lightning Ridge black opal ring with 0.74 ct. t.w. paraiba tourmaline and 3.45 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $62,000; Pamela Huizenga; 772-871-0033, pamelahuizenga.com

11.65 ct. rose tourmaline flower necklace in 22k gold with white enamel and 0.73 ct. t.w. diamonds; $13,100; Buddha Mama; 305-4392059; buddhamama.com

Liz collection handmade white gold earrings with ruby, tourmaline, aquamarine, and sapphire; $9,800; Nana Fink; contact@ nanafink.com; nanafink.com

18k gold cuff with 4.4 cts. t.w. moonstones; $15,000; Victor Velyan; 213-955-5950; victorvelyan.com

58

says jewelry website and marketing expert Matthew Perosi, but the cost and complexity can make it unattainable for smaller stores. So savvy retailers are finding new ways to quantify how an investment in their digital footprint will pay off.

“We need to have more product that’s available online and tell people where they can find it, because we really see it as a tool that enables shopping,” says Marc Bridge, vice president of marketing at Seattle-based Ben Bridge Jeweler. “For a long time, we optimized against direct sales—either they bought something or they didn’t,” Bridge says. “Now we’re optimizing against other metrics like a findin-store lookup. We’ve invested in that as a success metric.”

STORES EMBRACING ENGAGING EXPERIENCES Getting shoppers into stores is a perennial challenge for retailers. These days, jewelers are finding inventive ways to usher a new generation of customers through the door of a brick-and-mortar store after bringing them to the retailer’s “virtual doorstep.”

“Obviously, the internet is a disruptor, but I think what it does is raise the question, How do we offer an experience that can’t be replicated on the internet?”

Berg says. “We’ve had to make sure that every customer who walks through our door has an extraordinary experience.”

Thomas echoes that sentiment, saying that a recent renovation was designed to make McCary’s Jewelers more approachable, with the showroom decked out in white tones; sleek, flush cases; and private rooms for personal consultations. The effect, she says, is similar to that of an Apple store, where products are front and center and customers are encouraged to browse and linger.

Corey says Day’s Jewelers has put out pets’ water bowls and tennis balls printed with the brand’s logo so customers feel comfortable bringing in their four-legged friends. “We remove the intimidation factor,” he says. Encouraging customers to post photos of their cute pooches with the store’s logo in close proximity is an added bonus.

Another critical component of making customers feel comfortable is hiring sales associates who project a welcoming mix of friendliness and expertise.

“A trend that we’re seeing and that will likely move forward over the next five years is investment in employees that really know what they’re doing,” says Anya Cohen, an analyst at research firm IBISWorld. “Having a knowledgeable employee base is increasingly important,” she adds, since store shoppers expect the person behind the counter to know even more than they were able to learn from online resources.

Dream collection 18k rose gold ring with 6.2 ct. Brazilian kunzite and 0.75 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,980; Mia Katrin for Jewel Couture LLC; 336-329-9341; jeweljewel.com

Drop earrings in 18k yellow gold with 1.99 cts. t.w. sapphire and 0.39 ct. t.w. diamonds; $4,685; Maria Canale; info@maria canale.com; mariacanale.com

SHOPPERS WHO CRAVE COLOR AND VALUE VARIETY When jewelers describe product trends they expect to be strong through 2018, an overarching theme is the industry’s greater focus on the needs and preferences of millennials, aka Generation Y, shoppers who were born in the 1980s and ’90s.

“Millennials don’t want their mother’s jewelry,” says Rick Moore, store director at Bellusso Jewelers in Las Vegas.

Stackables are hot with this group of consumers, according to Blaire Hovis, a fine-jewelry product manager at Stuller. “We’re still seeing a strong trend in stacking and layering, not just with rings, but bangles and cuffs and…necklaces.”

This is appealing to retailers as well as their customers, because the price point to entry is often less than for a single, larger piece. And the nature of the trend encourages multiple purchases and an eclectic variety.

“The trendy stuff can be mixed and matched all day long,” says Thomas, adding that the stackable trend is practically a staple in the bridal space, with women layering multiple bands—such as eternity bands and bands commemorating the birth of children—along with the traditional engagement ring and wedding band.

Customers are seeking out unconventional gemstones, from moonstone and morganite to tsavorite and tourmaline, in a quest to achieve a unique look—a key priority of the millennial shopper, many jewelers say.

“Colored gemstones give us a great opportunity to attract younger females to our store because they’re less traditional,” Corey says. “They’re unique—there’s an intrigue, a story behind them.”

Adds Thomas: “You show a young person a long rectangular tourmaline, they think that’s the greatest. And they love opals—those really are having a moment.”

Lindsay Daunell, co-owner and president at D&H Jewelers in San Francisco, says more customers today want to add color to engagement rings, with blue, blue-green, and yellow sapphires in cuts like squares, Asschers, and ovals growing in popularity.

Shoppers also are gravitating toward yellow gold, retailers say. After years of being relegated to also-ran status, yellow gold has burnished its image in fashion jewelry.

Some of these alternatives are driven by pricing pressure, as retailers look for ways to dazzle and delight a generation that has not yet adopted their parents’ spending habits. Even top luxury brands are experimenting with ways to woo these younger shoppers, notes Bellusso Jewelers’ Moore. Earlier this year, for example, Cartier reintroduced its iconic Panthère watch in stainless steel.

“We’re competing with an experience,” says Moore, who believes the industry has a duty to educate millennials about the intrinsic and sentimental worth of fine jewelry. “We’re trying to give people a greater value.”

Pendant in 14k yellow gold with 0.25 ct. diamond; $599; Magnificence; info@magnifyyourlove.co; magnifyyourlove.co

Ella stack rings in 18k gold, $680, with one diamond, $800, with four diamonds, $1,120; Ilana Ariel; sales@ilanaarielcollections.com; ilanaarielcollections.com

8LI YRMUYI WIXXMRK XLEX QEOIW ]SYV HMEQSRH ETTIEV HSYFPI MR WM^I

'8

033/7 0-/)

'8

(MEQSRH MW WIEPIH MRXS XLI GIRXIV SJ ER IPIKERX WETTLMVI PIRW [LMGL QEKRMJMIW XLI HMEQSRH´W WM^I ERH FIEYX] 8LMW MRRSZEXMZI WIXXMRK GETXYVIW ERH EQTPMJMIW PMKLX XS GVIEXI E KPS[MRK QSVI I\XVEZEKERX TMIGI SJ NI[IPV] JVSQ ER SXLIV[MWI QSHIWX WXSRI [SVPH[MHI YXMPMX] HIWMKR TEXIRX TIRHMRK

ADVERTISEMENT

more than 15-carats in diamond equivalent weight, they are like nothing you’ve ever seen.

HOW HAS YOUR BUSINESS CHANGED, IF AT ALL, IN RECENT YEARS? Our industry has been

experiencing a shift toward responsible sourcing and eco-friendly products. I’m very passionate about this and it’s what drew me to Charles & Colvard.

1

Expand in retail stores, both online and internationally, and continue to increase awareness for our brand.

JEWELRY SPOTLIGHT

CHARLES

& COLVARD Charles & Colvard‰ is a renowned producer of lab-grown moissanite revolutionizing the diamond alternative market. Don O’Connell, COO and Senior VP of Supply Chain, opens up about the ethically responsible and environmental attributes of its trademarked Forever One™ moissanite collection.

Q&A NUMBER OF YEARS IN THE BUSINESS: 30.

NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES:

Approximately 70.

WHAT JEWELRY OR PRODUCT ARE YOU BEST KNOWN FOR? I’ve

been focused on supply chain and operations, so I’m not really known for a certain product. My expertise is in precious and semi-precious fine jewelry.

AS THE NEW YEAR APPROACHES, WHAT ARE YOU HOPING TO ACHIEVE IN THE COMING YEAR?

FOR SOMEONE WHO HAS NEVER SEEN YOUR WORK, HOW DO YOU DESCRIBE YOUR DESIGNS/YOUR BUSINESS? I’m in the moissanite

business, which is redefining the meaning of luxury. Moissanite is a mineral that is found in the earth in very small amounts. It has more fire and brilliance than any other gem and is a fraction of the cost of a comparable diamond.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR LATEST COLLECTION: I’m excited about

our Exotic Gems. They are madeto-order gemstones, finely crafted to emphasize the brilliance of moissanite. Ranging from six to

ANYTHING NEW AND EXCITING ON THE HORIZON? Charles &

Colvard is constantly innovating.

There’s a huge opportunity for moissanite in today’s market, and we’re thrilled consumers are taking notice.

DESIGNER OR JEWELRY MAKER WHOSE WORK HAS HAD THE GREATEST INFLUENCE ON YOU:

My mother is my greatest inspiration.

She was a jewelry expert and industry leader. I learned the business from her!

FIRST MAJOR PIECE OF JEWELRY YOU EVER PURCHASED (FOR YOURSELF OR SOMEONE ELSE): My

wife’s engagement ring.

DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE:

I’m fairly traditional in the way I dress and I like a sophisticated look.

JEWELRY YOU’RE WEARING RIGHT NOW: None.

IF YOU COULD HAVE DINNER WITH THREE PEOPLE (LIVING OR DEAD), WHO WOULD THEY BE? First would

business partners. Understand the challenges of creating and selling environmentally and socially responsible products. It takes time, energy, and money, but it’s worth it.

IF YOU WEREN’T IN THE JEWELRY BUSINESS, WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING? TV broadcasting.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR FAMILY AND PETS: My wife and I have two kids,

three dogs, a chicken, and a bird.

FAVORITE PASTIME: Baseball.

GUILTY PLEASURE: Being pampered.

WHAT IS ON YOUR BUCKET LIST?

Becoming a grandfather is at the top of my list.

TV SHOW YOU’RE BINGEWATCHING: The Blacklist.

BEST CONCERT YOU EVER ATTENDED: Phil Collins.

WINE: RED, WHITE, ROSÉ, OR SPARKLING? Red. FIRST APP YOU OPEN ON YOUR PHONE: MarketWatch.

FAVORITE TRAVEL DESTINATION:

Cabo, Mexico.

BOOK YOU’RE READING: The

Whistler by John Grisham.

PREFERRED NEWS SOURCE: The

Wall Street Journal.

FAVORITE MOVIE: Scarface.

WHO WOULD PLAY YOU IN YOUR LIFE STORY? Alec Baldwin or Robert

De Niro.

2

be my father, an incredible man and mentor. I also think Sean Connery may be an interesting dinner guest. Finally, I’d choose Facebook COO Sheryl Sandberg.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU OFFER SOMEONE WHO WANTS TO BREAK INTO THE BUSINESS?

Being authentic and transparent about business practices builds trust with customers and

1. From top to bottom: Forever One 1.01CTW Emerald Colorless Moissanite Solitaire Engagement Ring in 14K White Gold, $969; Forever One 1.00CTW Square Colorless Moissanite Split Shank Solitaire Engagement Ring in 14K White Gold, $949; Forever One 0.90CTW Oval Colorless Moissanite Solitaire Bypass Engagement Ring in 14K White Gold, $799 2. Forever One 18.41CTW Radiant Colorless Moissanite Halo Ring in 14K White Gold, price upon request

60 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

Charles & Colvard creates the world’s most brilliant gem, while leading the way for environmentally responsible choices in the jewelry industry.

Discover a new approach to jewelry for a new century.

For a complete list of authorized distributors, please visit: www.charlesandcolvard.com/trade-partners/authorized-dealers

ADVERTISEMENT

1

JEWELRY SPOTLIGHT

2

MASTOLONI From humble beginnings dating back nearly a century ago as a coral and cameo business in Italy to the third-generation familyrun American success story it is today, MASTOLONI™ has evolved into one of the most-trusted, respected, and renowned pearl purveyors in the world. The company’s patriarch Frank Mastoloni Sr., along with his brothers, dedicated their lives traveling the globe to source, discover and foster relationships allowing them direct access to ‘The Most Beautiful Pearls in The World™’. Decades later, MASTOLONI™ branched out into its own designed pearl jewelry and beloved brand. Now, celebrating 85 years in business this year, partners Ed Mastoloni Sr. of the second generation, as well as third generation Fran and Ray Mastoloni and most recently Ed Jr., look back on what has kept the company leaders in the category for decades.

W

orn as adornment for millennia on everyone from Cleopatra to Coco Chanel to Kate Middleton, pearls have long been cherished for their natural beauty and mystery which continues to captivate us to this day. In the mid-1930s, MASTOLONI™ was born, a company that would become one of the top pearl experts, suppliers, and pearl jewelry purveyors in the world. Its decades-long success story is an impressive one and one that has been rooted with one guiding principal. “I suppose the best way to describe our achievements is that we never have, or never will, compromise on quality,” Fran explains, noting craftsmanship and value have always been equally important to the family’s business and reputation. “My father always taught me to buy the very best for our customers because we can never be criticized for that, but rather we will become known for it.”

In the ’70s, the pearl business expanded from Akoya pearls in Japan to other parts of the world, including China, Australia, Indonesia and Tahiti. Today, with offices in Hong Kong, China, and Japan, MASTOLONI™ sources everything from classic Akoya pearls to giant South Sea white and goldens as well as captivating black-lipped Tahitian pearls.

“From one generation to the next, we have always been experts in our field,” Ed Sr. shared.

“Since the pearl category is not regulated by certificates like other categories in the industry, our customers look to us to provide that expertise.

There are so many factors that go into the understanding of pearls, it is critical that buyers trust who they are working with and they rely on MASTOLONI™ for our unique knowledge.”

That trust has enabled MASTOLONI™ to become leaders in the field, says the family. In the

3

late ’70s and ’80s, MASTOLONI™ expanded to a private label business and eventually into their own branded collections. The company has always stayed true to its commitment to deliver the finest cultured pearls to the industry.

Early on, the MASTOLONI™ collections were basic, such as pearl necklaces, pearl studs, and pearl bracelets. “We were always known as a house that makes basic product with a modern touch,” says Fran.

Today, the MASTOLONI™ brand offers a far broader and more design-forward collection that includes pieces like its stunning Viva Tahitian pearl strand necklace featuring multiple shades and sizes of Tahitian black round pearls as well one of their newer pieces, a limited-edition Tahitian pearl drop pair of earrings featuring 110 white diamonds set in 18K white gold.

“We never have intended to be a mega brand, but rather a reputable boutique brand with unparalleled offerings,” says Ray. “Our focus has been to be a trailblazer providing top of the line in quality no matter what. This business philosophy has helped anchor our reputation for having ‘The Most Beautiful Pearls in The World™’ and for that we incredibly proud.”

1. Mastoloni Caprice Multiway Soleil Earrings featuring 9-9.5MM white round cultured pearls with diamonds (0.78 TCW) set in 18KT yellow gold. (E3298-8) SRP: $3695 2. Mastoloni Limited Edition Cut Out Drop Earrings featuring 11.5-12.2MM black drop shaped Tahitian pearl clip/lever back with 110 diamonds (1.49 TCW) set in 18KT White Gold. (SBE-3167) SRP: $9350.00 3. Mastoloni Viva Tahitian Pearl Strand necklace featuring 8-14+MM multiple shades of black round Tahitian pearls. 40 inches. (SBN-5510) SRP: $4840.00

62 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

ADVERTISEMENT

every piece of jewelry is designed and manufactured in-house and its quality level is monitored during the entire production process, I am proud of all Mira Style pieces.

TELL US ABOUT THE LATEST MIRA STYLE COLLECTION: The

JEWELRY SPOTLIGHT

1

MIRA STYLE

Mira Style Jewellery Company Limited is a worldwide purveyor of exquisite diamond jewelry set in gold and platinum to fine jewelry retailers. In addition to its delicate designs—the company prides itself on providing the highest quality at competitive prices. Mira Style is a member of a number of jewelry associations and has been a finalist in the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards since 2013. Throw in superior customer service and it’s not hard to see why Mira Style has amassed a dedicated following.

JCK magazine discussed Mira Style’s rise with director Ray Wong.

Q&A

NUMBER OF YEARS IN THE BUSINESS: 17.

NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES: 20 in

Hong Kong and 8 in the U.S.

FOR SOMEONE WHO HAS NEVER

SEEN YOUR WORK, HOW DO YOU DESCRIBE YOUR DESIGNS/YOUR BUSINESS? We are a professional

diamond jewelry manufacturer in Hong Kong and Guangzhou. We design jewelry that is not only elegant but fashionable.

SINCE WE LAST PROFILED MIRA, CAN YOU RECAP SOME OF THE SUCCESSES YOU’VE HAD? Since

diamond series is one of our best. Yellow gold designs are often mixed with other metals and consist of white diamonds combined with fancy colored diamonds.

WHAT TRENDS ARE INSPIRING YOUR WORK? I have an enduring

passion for colored diamonds.

HOW HAS YOUR BUSINESS CHANGED, IF AT ALL, IN RECENT YEARS? We are all in the midst of a

globalizing age in which geographical limitations have already been transcended by technology. Thus, the Internet jewelry business will undoubtedly play a dominant role in the future.

HOW WAS YOUR EXPERIENCE AT THIS YEAR’S JCK LAS VEGAS SHOW? ANY TAKEAWAYS OR KEY LEARNINGS YOU FOUND VALUABLE FOR FUTURE PLANNING?

FAVORITE CUT OF DIAMOND: The

emerald-cut diamond. If you’re all about glamour, this is your diamond.

THE ONE DIAMOND PIECE EVERY WOMAN SHOULD HAVE IN HER JEWELRY BOX: Single diamond stud

earrings perfectly complement every woman.

DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE:

I wear clothes that are practical, simple, timeless, and memorable.

I always put color harmony and proportion as my first priorities.

FIRST MAJOR PIECE OF JEWELRY YOU EVER PURCHASED (FOR YOURSELF OR SOMEONE ELSE):

The eternity diamond band, which is a fashion ring.

WHAT PIECE OF JEWELRY ARE YOU WEARING RIGHT NOW? An 18K gold

diamond men’s bracelet.

IF YOU COULD HAVE DINNER WITH THREE PEOPLE (LIVING OR DEAD), WHO WOULD THEY BE? Tom Cruise,

Denzel Washington, and Will Smith, as I am a movie enthusiast.

GUILTY PLEASURE: A cigarette every

now and then.

The show offers me a superior way to find out more about world’s most influential designers, new products, and trends from around the world.

WHAT IS ON YOUR BUCKET LIST?

AS THE NEW YEAR APPROACHES, WHAT ARE YOU HOPING TO ACHIEVE IN THE COMING YEAR? In

BEST CONCERT YOU EVER ATTENDED: Andrea Bocelli.

recent years, the local economy has been gradually deteriorating. To cope with the downturn, we constantly make innovations in our designs and pricing strategy to meet the demands of the transforming market structure.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU OFFER SOMEONE JUST GETTING STARTED IN THE BUSINESS? Have good

I think I may get a tattoo, learn to fly in a wingsuit and try to become a bodybuilder.

WINE: RED, WHITE, ROSÉ, OR SPARKLING? I seldom drink wine.

FIRST APP YOU DOWNLOADED ON YOUR PHONE: Facebook.

FAVORITE TRAVEL DESTINATION:

Hawaii.

2

marketing skills and expertise in sales and online sales.

WHAT FINE JEWELRY DESIGNER HAS HAD THE GREATEST INFLUENCE ON YOU?

Kai-Yin Lo, a world-renowned jewelry and accessories designer.

1. 18K White Gold Diamond Fashion Band Ring Contains Round Brilliant White Diamonds ( 2.52cts. t.w.) 2. 18K White Gold Trendy Diamond Bangle Contains Round Brilliant White Diamonds ( 2.54cts. t.w.)

64 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

4 0MJWF 4USFFU 4VJUF -PT "OHFMFT $" 64" 5FM

'BY

&NBJM JOGP!NJSBTUZMF DPN

ADVERTISEMENT

TELL US ABOUT YOUR LATEST COLLECTION:

You Me We™ is our latest, offering complete customization with our norisk 100% Sell Thru Guarantee.

HOW HAS YOUR BUSINESS CHANGED IN RECENT YEARS? We

1

RDI

SINGLE PIECE OF JEWELRY YOU’RE MOST PROUD OF:

DIAMONDS, INC. From a business started in a basement to the powerhouse it is today, RDI Diamonds has been providing loose diamonds, earrings, pendants, and tennis bracelets to the industry since 1992. RDI Diamonds also produces Ariel Diamonds, a collection of diamonds the company can improve through technology, to support the demand for big stones at affordable prices. We sat down with CEO Michael Indelicato to discuss how his business has evolved.

NUMBER OF YEARS IN THE BUSINESS: 25.

NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES: 80.

AS THE NEW YEAR APPROACHES, WHAT ARE YOU HOPING TO ACHIEVE IN THE COMING YEAR?

We are expecting major growth and are celebrating RDI’s 25th year!

JEWELRY SPOTLIGHT

Q&A

have grown quickly and with that comes change. We launched You Me We™, a collection of stud earrings, solitaires, loose tennis bracelets, and basic pendants, and Ariel Diamonds, enhanced diamonds for the jeweler that doesn’t want lab-grown diamonds.

WHAT JEWELRY OR PRODUCT ARE YOU BEST KNOWN FOR?

Loose diamonds in all shapes and sizes certified by the Gemological Institute of America, American Gem Society, and EGL USA Gemological Laboratory.

My wife’s engagement ring. She won’t take anything off and is the handy person in the house, so I knew she needed a simple ring. I decided on one-carat round diamonds on the sides of a round, 3.29-carat diamond set in platinum.

DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE:

Comfortable and casual. I shop at Express and wear Vans. I wear shorts and a polo shirt to work.

JEWELRY YOU’RE WEARING RIGHT NOW: I only wear my wedding ring, a

remainder of his gold to help my family and found my passion.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU OFFER SOMEONE WHO WANTS TO BREAK INTO THE BUSINESS? It takes

passion, long hours, a willingness to learn and, most importantly, the ability to handle criticism and grow from it, not crumble beneath it.

IF YOU WEREN’T IN THE JEWELRY BUSINESS, WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING?

Real estate.

WHO ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT PEOPLE IN YOUR LIFE? My beautiful

wife Melissa, sons Sam and Doron, and my lovely daughter Maya.

FAVORITE PASTIME: Taking as many

family vacations as we can, like Hilton Head, Italy, San Diego, and Punta Cana.

WHAT IS ON YOUR BUCKET LIST?

A cross-country RV trip with my family.

TV SHOW YOU’RE BINGEWATCHING: Shark Tank.

FIRST (OR BEST) CONCERT YOU EVER ATTENDED: Journey.

WINE: RED, WHITE, ROSÉ, OR SPARKLING? Red.

plain platinum band.

FIRST APP YOU OPEN ON YOUR PHONE: Email…always my email.

IF YOU COULD HAVE DINNER WITH THREE PEOPLE (LIVING OR DEAD), WHO WOULD THEY BE? My father,

PREFERRED NEWS SOURCE: All

grandfather, and Tony Robbins.

HOW DID YOU GET STARTED IN THE JEWELRY BUSINESS?

I didn’t come from money. My parents were immigrants. I was taught hard 2 work. When I was 16, my dad started selling gold chains in addition to his manufacturing job. He was then diagnosed with cancer and died fairly quickly. I began selling the

networks in all mediums—I need to see all the angles.

FAVORITE MOVIE: The Rocky movies.

I’m always attracted to the underdog.

1. Michael Indelicato and wife Melissa Indelicato 2. RDI Diamonds JCK Show Team (from left to right) Aubre Stewart (Account Manager), Andrew Rickard (VP of Operations), Mick Roscoe (Account Manager), Nico Palmieri (Senior Executive Manager), Michael Indelicato and wife Melissa, Michael Sirianni (Sales Manager), Anne Ards (Account Manger), Jen Lu (Administrative Assistant) and Matthew Holzwarth (Operations Manager).

66 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

ADVERTISEMENT

our Cherished collection features elegant and affordable bridal rings.

I realized I loved designing rings and making people happy.

HOW HAS YOUR BUSINESS CHANGED, IF AT ALL, IN RECENT YEARS? As a young designer, I rely

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU OFFER SOMEONE WHO WANTS TO BREAK INTO THE BUSINESS? People will

on customer feedback to make my business more customer-friendly. I’ve also updated my website and social media presence.

AS THE NEW YEAR APPROACHES, WHAT ARE YOU HOPING TO ACHIEVE IN THE COMING YEAR?

JEWELRY SPOTLIGHT

1

TASHA R Tasha R Somani, a young designer who’s already putting her mark on the fine jewelry market, takes her cues from her friends, travels and, yes, her millennial clients. A millennial herself, Somani designs items like the solitaire enhancer—two wedding bands designed to kick up a simple engagement ring—ornate and fanciful engagement rings dripping in diamonds and a collection of unique platinum bridal jewelry. Here, the designer shares her global influences and her priorities for the coming year.

Q&A NUMBER OF YEARS IN THE BUSINESS: 5.

NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES: 10.

WHAT JEWELRY OR PRODUCT ARE YOU BEST KNOWN FOR? Unique

engagement rings at affordable prices in 14K and 18K gold and platinum.

FOR SOMEONE WHO HAS NEVER SEEN YOUR WORK, HOW DO YOU DESCRIBE YOUR DESIGNS/ YOUR BUSINESS? I am a millennial

designer for the millenial market. I have a different aesthetic than many other bridal companies.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR LATEST COLLECTION: Our Weaved

collection features engagement rings set in a mix of rose gold and white gold, symbolizing couples weaving their lives together. Also,

We are launching our silver samples collection. Our goal is to help retailers lower inventory costs and provide more consumer marketing to bring them into the stores.

ANYTHING NEW AND EXCITING ON THE HORIZON? Inspired by

my trip to the Mediterranean Sea and Europe, I’m using the influences of waves and marble carvings in collections for 2018.

FIRST PIECE OF JEWELRY YOU DESIGNED: An engagement ring for

buy what you make with passion.

IF YOU WEREN’T IN THE JEWELRY BUSINESS, WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING? I did my MBA in marketing

from Rice University, so probably marketing at a large brand.

FAMILY AND PETS: My husband

Zeeshan, our parents, and siblings.

FAVORITE PASTIME: Making creative

little things or scrapbooks for family.

GUILTY PLEASURE: Watching TV. WHAT IS ON YOUR BUCKET LIST?

Traveling to Australia and Tahiti.

TV SHOW YOU’RE BINGEWATCHING: Game of Thrones.

my cousin.

FIRST (OR BEST) CONCERT YOU EVER ATTENDED: Carrie Underwood.

SINGLE PIECE OF JEWELRY YOU’RE MOST PROUD OF: My engagement

WINE: RED, WHITE, ROSÉ, OR SPARKLING? No alcohol. I have lots

ring. Being a designer, I’ve seen everything so it was challenging to create something I’d love to wear.

DESIGNER OR JEWELRY MAKER WHOSE WORK HAS HAD THE GREATEST INFLUENCE ON YOU: I

love the uniqueness and intricacy of Chopard.

DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE: I

of fun without it.

FIRST APP YOU OPEN ON YOUR PHONE: Facebook.

FAVORITE TRAVEL DESTINATION:

The Costa Rican rainforest.

BOOK YOU’RE READING: Medical

Mysteries.

wear clothes that are elegant, but have a little sparkle.

PREFERRED NEWS SOURCE: NBC.

JEWELRY YOU’RE WEARING RIGHT NOW: My engagement ring, three-line

Sleeping.

geometric ring, and my Fitbit with different bands.

FAVORITE MOVIE: While You Were WHO WOULD PLAY YOU IN YOUR LIFE STORY? Freida Pinto.

IF YOU COULD HAVE DINNER WITH THREE PEOPLE (LIVING OR DEAD), WHO WOULD THEY BE? Princess

Diana, Mother Theresa, and Michelle Obama.

HOW DID YOU GET STARTED IN THE JEWELRY BUSINESS?

My father has been in the business for 30 years. I started working with him, but family and friends would ask me to design their engagement rings.

1. Weaved engagement ring in 14k Rose and White gold with .37 ct diamonds, $1249 (center stone not included) 2. Luxe engagement ring in 18k white gold with 1.64 ct diamonds, $3899 (center stone not included)

68 NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

2

ENGAGEMENT RINGS STARTING AT

“I will cherish our love forever”

$199

CHERISHED COLLECTION UNIQUE SILVER SAMPLE LINE PERFECT FOR MILLENIALS

SEE OUR SHOW SPECIALS AT:

JCK Las Vegas ~ JIS Miami ~ JA New York 1.888.999.1597 - WWW.TASHAR.COM - INFO@TASHAR.COM

T H E F U T U R E O F D I G I TA L C U R R E N C Y FOR THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY

S I G N U P T O D AY A N D R E C E I V E

FREE

2 5 O D I G I TA L C O I N S LEARN MORE AT JWL.COM

STYLING: SOLANGE FRANKLIN AT THE WALL GROUP; HAIR: RUDY MARTINS FOR ALTERNA AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP: JUSTINE PURDUE AT STREETERS FOR MAC COSMETICS; MANICURIST: HONEY FOR EXPOSURE NY USING DEBORAH LIPPMANN “RESPECT”; DRESS: ROSETTA GETTY; BEIGE BODYSUIT: ALIX; KNOT STAINLESS STEEL AND GOLD PVD CUFF WITH SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS JET CRYSTALS, $89, KNOT STAINLESS STEEL AND GOLD PVD CUFF, $82, BROSWAY, 305-381-9558, BROSWAY.COM; SEE P. 10 FOR MORE JEWELRY

71

FEATURES

Photograph by Kenneth Willardt

72

Indorussian pavĂŠ hoop earrings in 18k yellow gold with 1.6 cts. t.w. diamonds, $4,800, Sanjay Kasliwal, 212-988-1511, sanjaykasliwal. com; choker in 14k gold with diamonds, $2,800, three-tier necklace in 14k gold with diamonds, $4,900, Shy Creation, 213-6238900, shycreation. com; Zill band in 18k yellow gold, $1,050, Editions de Re, 267-474-2854, editionsdere.com

73

MALE AND FEMALE SHOPPERS ALIKE ARE FALLING FOR THE WARM YELLOW METAL. FOR PROOF, LOOK NO FURTHER THAN THESE GLOWY PAGES. Photography by Kenneth Willardt

FO R THE LOV E OF

GOLD Styling by Solange Franklin

Jewelry direction by Randi Molofsky

74 Axl fringe earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $3,250, Sorellina, 646-745-6831, sorellinanewyork. com; large classic Wave cuff in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $32,500, Jye’s International, 415-621-8880, jyescorp.com

76 (On him) Ash Tray ring in 14k yellow gold, $3,350, Established, 646-745-6831, establishedjewelry. com; distressedfinish band with handmade Damascus steel zebra-patterned sleeve in 14k yellow gold, $1,341.88, Lashbrook, info@ lashbrookdesigns. com, lashbrook designs.com; braided bracelet in 18k yellow gold with diamonds and emerald, $20,610, Shamballa, 45-5374-2147, shamballa jewels.com

(On her) Earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $11,930, L’Dezen, info@ ldezen.com, ldezen. com; Rose de Joie ring in 14k yellow gold with diamonds, $12,800, El Dorado Jewelry, 213-6894406, eldorado jewelry.com

78

New Barocco chain necklace with diamond pavĂŠ stations in 18k yellow gold, $21,000, Roberto Coin, 212-486-4545, robertocoin.com; Geometric brushfinished ring in 14k yellow gold with diamonds, $2,850, Dilamani, 800-3426677, dilamani.com

80

SPOTLIGHT

GILDED RAGE

MEET FIVE FINE-JEWELRY DESIGNERS WHO ARE

LIGHTING UP THE GOLD SCENE

1 Provence collection stick-shape earrings with diamonds, moonstones, and tanzanites in 14k yellow gold; $1,550; Loriann Jewelry; loriannjewelry@ gmail.com; loriannjewelry.com

81

2 Diamond Rose ring in 18k matte yellow gold with natural brown diamond; $3,620; Diane Dorsey; info@ dianedorsey.com; dianedorsey.com

WHEN IT COMES to precious metals, gold is king.

It’s not for nothing that the word is shorthand for top of the tops: gold standard, go for the gold, heart of gold, and so on. Many jewelry designers, including the ones here, begin with silver but eventually build their way up to gold.

“It’s so rich,” says Diane Dorsey, “and not just because it’s expensive. The color is so beautiful.” Asked about the gravitational pull to the metal, Loren Nicole responds with a tale from the pre-Incan culture of Moche. A priest, the Lord of Sipán, stood atop a pyramid, dressed entirely in gold. “He’s reflecting so much, he looks like the sun,” she observes. “That’s such a powerful image, and it always stayed with me.”

Here are five talents, each bringing that storied element to new heights with their own alloys and their own takes on good design.

They’ve got the—what’s the phrase?—golden touch.

B y Ve n e s s a L a u

82

3 Double-sided Beechnut bangle in 22k yellow gold; $8,800; Loren Nicole; wholesale@ loren-nicole.com; loren-nicole.com

83

4 Leaf bracelet in recycled 18k yellow gold; $2,236; East Fourth Street; info@eastfourth street.com; east fourthstreet.com

84

5 Diamond Crown pink tourmaline pendant necklace with recycled diamonds in recycled 14k yellow gold; $1,495; Justin Brown Jewelry; justinbrownjewelry@ gmail.com; justin brownjewelry.com

85

2

DIAMOND ROSE RING: BRADLEYOTTOPOSEY.COM; DORSEY: LUCIAKIELPORTRAITS.COM

1

3

4

LORIANN JEWELRY

DIANE DORSEY

LOREN NICOLE

EAST FOURTH STREET

As the daughter of an antique collector, Connecticut native Lori Friedman got an early education in Jewelry 101.

“I’d call it treasure hunting,” says Friedman of the childhood trips to Vermont and Massachusetts and their numerous antique shops. “I loved it, and it was through that experience that I became attracted to vintage jewelry.”

Her early designs often incorporated these finds—pre-ban carved ivory pendants on a bejeweled chain, for instance.

After introducing Loriann Jewelry in 2001, the former graphic designer is making her first foray into a full-blown gold line ($800 to $5,000).

“I’m self-funded, so I had to wait until I was at a point where I could afford to do this,” explains Friedman, whose collections range from Organique and Mediterranean, both of which find inspiration in Mother Nature, to Amuleto (talismanic pieces like horns) and Moderne (linear and Art Deco–like). Still, it’s the stones that take center stage in her oeuvre: opals, amethysts, lapis, and diamonds, which she layers to alluring and breathtaking effect. Friedman— who’s also a watercolor artist—treats her gems not unlike paints, creating beautiful color combinations. She dabs a fire opal here, brushes a stroke of pavé diamonds there. “There’s a lot of fluidity to my designs as well as my watercolors,” she says. “I think of it as organic elegance.”

Nature looms large in Diane Dorsey’s collection, and it all traces back to personal moments in her life. The clover motif, for example, stems from her childhood in Ohio—“there are fields of grass everywhere and, as a little girl, I would search for clovers,” she recalls— while the thick cross shapes hark back to her days living in New Mexico and the staurolites she uncovered while hiking. Her latest rose designs, which feature petal pendants and gems in calyx-like settings, take their inspiration from the roses outside her new home in Santa Barbara, Calif. And also from her grandmother, “who had spectacular rosebushes,” she adds.

Dorsey’s interest in jewelry began five years ago, when she designed a clothing line with her husband, Ronald Helman, called Dorsey Helman, and created a few accompanying jewelry pieces.

After they sold the company, Dorsey forged ahead with her own line ($120 to $7,650), which uses recycled metals and ethically sourced gems, in 2015. Her training with Santa Fe artists gives her work a decidedly sculptural feel, so much so that her tag line is “sculpted adornment.” Of her serene artisanal sensibility, Dorsey explains that she subscribes to the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi: “I don’t like things too perfect.

That’s not who I am.”

When Loren Nicole took her first metalsmithing class, she had no intention of becoming a jeweler. She was working at New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art as a conservator and simply wanted to better understand metal antiquities and how they were constructed. “I’m very hands-on,” explains the New Jersey native, who made the career switch when she realized the curators were spending their days glued to their desks. “That wasn’t my vision of archaeology and, fortunately, jewelry popped into the picture.” So Nicole bid adieu to New York—and a University of Cambridge Ph.D. program, into which she’d just been accepted—and moved to Southern California.

She debuted her line in 2016.

Nicole’s love for the archaeological continues in her streamlined designs, priced from $800 to upward of $20,000, averaging in the $2,000 to $6,000 range.

Her latest collection takes on a motif popular with the Greeks, the teardrop-shape beechnut, while her next offerings will highlight the Korean kingdom of Silla.

“My goal is to educate people and get them excited about these cultures,” Nicole says.

She works by daylight—sans electricity—and does everything by hand, even creating her own alloys and most of her tools. An exception to the latter? Her recent purchase of an ancient Roman hammer.

Susan Crow of East Fourth Street likes to note that she often gets mistaken for being Danish. She’s not (she’s French-Irish), but the story highlights her particular design sensibility, which skews thoroughly modern and minimal. “I grew up in a town that was very Scandinavian,” explains the Minnesotan, whose collection is named for her childhood address. “The whole essence of Danish design, where enough is enough, is very relaxing and comforting to me.” So her surfaces are smooth and her lines pure— from bar earrings to simple leaf rings. Retail prices run from $80 to $5,000.

Still, design is only part of the equation to success here.

For Crow, sustainability and transparency are essential.

She’s passionate about using Fairmined metals and has her license from the Alliance for Responsible Mining. “It just made sense to me to have as clean a supply chain as possible,” says Crow, a member of the Ethical Fashion Forum and Fair Jewelry Action. She also serves on the board of Ethical Metalsmiths, where she’s chairing the Responsible Sourcing Committee, now focusing on ethically sourced gemstones.

“I strive to do total mine-tomarket traceability,” she says.

“I want to offer my clients a piece of jewelry that I’m proud of not only in design, but also its backstory.”

5 JUSTIN BROWN JEWELRY Justin Brown’s entrée into jewelry design? Believe it or not, it came courtesy of a high school gig at a medical manufacturing company. “I did a lot of laser welding,” he says.

“I found I loved working with metals and discovered a jewelry program [at the University of Massachusetts–Dartmouth] where I could take that to an artistic level.” The Bostonbased Brown debuted his collection in 2015 after working for jeweler Andrea Williams and serving as website and social media photographer for Quadrum Gallery (which he continues to do).

Brown anchors his handcrafted designs, priced $150 to $3,000, in a Deco sensibility—think graphic geometry, bold gemstones, and a certain Roaring ’20s glamour. But he goes one modern step further with a play between positive and negative space—also the theme of his senior thesis. So he takes, for instance, a center stone and partially edges it with gems. “A lot of jewelry features a complete halo, and what I like about Art Deco is that it terminates at a certain point,” says Brown, who uses recycled metals and diamonds.

“I like a ‘broken’ halo and imagining the in-between space.” As for the pavé work throughout his collection, he considers it his Valium of sorts: “I know a lot of people find it tedious, but pavésetting is one of my passions.

It’s how I relax.”

86

K

T

H

TA

SSUES A IG I ND B • BU

E

Z

R

NE IN 20 1 SCE 8 • IL

1

C

GENERATION NEXT We’re living in a millennial world. But how long until the following generation takes hold? America’s newest demographic, Gen Z, comes with its own set of peculiarities—and challenges. Although these youngsters—the oldest of the bunch are just 21—may not have spending power quite yet, they’re already wielding influence in the marketplace. (Case in point: jewelry brand Ippolita collaborating with Insta-queen Kendall Jenner, pictured.) Having never lived without the internet, they are social media addicts. To reach them, you’ll need to be one too. Just keep in mind Gen Z’s highly selective filters and supposed eight-second attention spans. See the world through their screen-obsessed eyes—and make it snappy. —BRITTANY SIMINITZ

RYAN MCGINLEY, COURTESY OF IPPOLITA

Y

Z

O

R

T

H

S SET TO END R RO T

E

W

HOT TOPICS FOR 2018

87

3

2 STRUNG OUT

RETAIL 3.0

New? Certainly not. But there’s something about the simplicity of a gemstone bead that keeps the ancient adornment firmly rooted in the collective jewelry subconscious. Dating back to prehistoric times, beads have served as both dramatic accessories and—rife with minute pattern work—storytelling tools. Interestingly, the updated bead jewelry that will come to the fore in 2018 is rather simple when compared with the intricate styles favored by pharaohs and Cherokee chiefs. Some designers, such as Irene Neuwirth, are striking a chord with minimal strands of opal, chrysoprase, or turquoise meant to be layered, while others—including Shamballa Jewels, Luis Morais, and Anthony Lent—are appealing to fashion-forward gents with elegant wrist wraps. Just bead it! —RANDI MOLOFSKY

Malachite Serpent bracelet with emerald eyes and diamonds in 18k yellow gold and platinum; $5,250; Anthony Lent; 646-745-6831; anthonylent.com

4

Consumers are becoming increasingly comfortable buying high-end jewelry and timepieces online. And this new reality is poised to reshape the jewelry retail landscape. Buoyed by infusions of venture capital, monobrand retailers such as AUrate and Vrai & Oro are luring young consumers with trendy, tightly curated collections.

Meanwhile, secondhand luxury e-tailers like The RealReal are growing their reach both online and via brick-and-mortar. Traditional retailers hoping to thrive in 2018 and beyond may want to look to Govberg Jewelers in Philadelphia, which is doing all of the above—apps, videos, social media, and good old-fashioned face-to-face. Quips CEO Danny Govberg (pictured): “We’re a 101-year-old startup.” —EMILI VESILIND

NAME OF THRONES

De Beers got more than just a group of retail stores when it bought out LVMH’s share of De Beers Diamond Jewellers in March. The mining giant received full rights to its name; up until now, the company had been limited in how it used the much-recognized moniker commercially. And expect De Beers to use it. For instance, its grading lab is called the International Institute of Diamond Grading & Research— which, safe to say, doesn’t exactly trip off the tongue. A more logical name: the De Beers Lab. Expect that and many of the company’s other services to bear the company signature now. —ROB BATES Soothing Lotus ring in 18k gold with 4.01 ct. oval diamond and rough and polished diamonds; price on request; De Beers; 212-906-0001; debeers.com

88

6 YOU BET

5

SECOND THOUGHTS The luxury watch industry has long aligned itself with the luxury car business—except in one critical arena: the secondhand market. Whereas virtually every high-end automotive brand maintains a network of certified pre-owned dealers authorized to sell its vehicles to consumers, watchmakers have resisted formalizing the way their pre-owned and vintage timepieces are bought and sold. Not for long, however. As competition from internet retailers grows, the Swiss will revisit their distribution strategies. Brands that get involved with the secondary market “uphold margin, pricing, and brand integrity instead of allowing a hodgepodge of online sellers in,” argues Andrew Block, president of online watch and jewelry retailer TrueFacet. “I’m shooting myself in the foot, but it’s true.” —VICTORIA GOMELSKY Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5035G in 18k white gold sold by TrueFacet; $21,995

While iconic jewelry brands such as Cartier and Tiffany & Co. have used YouTube as a showcase for highly produced video content for years, smaller jewelry businesses have been slower to adopt the online juggernaut as a worthwhile marketing avenue—an oversight, considering that the network has 1.3 billion users and streams 5 billion videos daily. In the new year, however, expect smaller industry players to embrace the channel. Last year, the platform saw an increase in engaging content from indie retailers, in the form of designer Q&As (check out Stone & Strand’s interview with Stephen Webster), how-to-buy videos, and “edutainment.” Watch website–turned–retailer Hodinkee, for example, produced a video for its YouTube channel that details the entire lineage of the Omega Speedmaster watch. After all, there’s no better place to celebrate supremely niche content than on YouTube. —EV

89

7

CATEGORY CREEP Set of six Beasts chef’s knives with sculpted bronze handles and Damascus hand-forged steel blades, engraved and numbered; £30,000 ($39,400); Stephen Webster; 310246-9500; stephenwebster.com

In August, Neil Lane’s company was purchased by Authentic Brands Group, which plans to bring the celebrity designer into new markets like housewares and watches. Lloyd Greif, who acted as financial adviser on the deal, says this isn’t as surprising as it might look. “Vera Wang started in wedding gowns, and now she is everywhere,” he says. “Neil started in jewelry, but there is no reason a jewelry designer shouldn’t become synonymous with clothing.” What’s more, Greif now thinks other jewelry designers will follow Lane’s lead: “A lot of designers’ eyes are a little wider now. This opens up a whole new set of possibilities.” —RB

THE COLOR PURPLE Earlier this year, in our July–August “Best in Show” issue, we told you about the proliferation of purple jewels at JCK Las Vegas. And now that Pantone has released its latest color palette, we’re predicting even more similarly hued pieces coming down the pike: Three of the 12 spring 2018 shades—Pink Lavender, Ultra Violet, and Spring Crocus—belong to the purple family. (The color authority also recently partnered with the Prince estate to create Love Symbol #2, a custom hue that pays homage to the Purple One.) For jewelers, the mixing and matching options are practically endless. Pair amethyst, agate, tanzanite, and sugilite with emerald, turquoise, tourmaline, boulder opal, rose quartz, and more. Bonus: Purple will really pop against all the citrus colors we recently saw at New York Fashion Week. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

8

Hand-carved agate moon pendant with gray rose-cut diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $15,500; Sylva & Cie; 213-488-1444; sylvacie.com

90

T H E U LT I M AT E R E TA I L

W I S H

L I S T

BOOST YOUR BUSINESS, SPRUCE UP YOUR STORE, AND EVEN STOCK THE SUPPLY CLOSET WITH THESE 25 STORE-CENTRIC HOLIDAY GIFTS B y D a n i e l P. S m i t h

URE, YOU WANT customers to fill your store during the holiday season and buy, buy, buy. But let’s not forget that as a retailer, you too deserve a few nice holiday gifts. And while another pair of house slippers or winter gloves might prove personally useful, why not get explicit with your requests and land a few practical presents? Our list of accessible, workplace-oriented items—which accounts for any and every budget—is the perfect place to begin.

GIFTS TO ATTRACT—AND KEEP—CUSTOMERS Useful for promoting a current sale, noting an upcoming special event, or simply sharing a special message, A-FRAME CHALKBOARD SIGNS remain a whimsical and economical advertising solution. (sidewalksigns2go.com, $56–$219)… Provide your business with a fresh dose of curb appeal: Filled with vibrant flowers or lush greenery, PLANTER BOXES will add dimension and color to your storefront. (lowes. com, $8–$200)… The big sibling to the sidewalk chalkboard sign, a portable marquee sign allows retailers, particularly those located on automobile-dominated strips, to

communicate messages loud and clear. (alphabetsigns.com, $320–$875)… Reject tired, traditional window signage carrying your store’s hours of operation—namely, the plastic sliding sign with press-on letters and numbers—in favor of CUSTOM WINDOW GRAPHICS that offer a crisp, upscale look and communicate necessary store information. (stickeryou.com, $10+)… Welcome your customers with a BRANDED FLOOR MAT. It should be durable and tough enough to handle harsh weather conditions. (floormatsystems.com, $158+)… Another simple branding tool, a CUSTOM STAMP carrying your store’s logo can be used on correspondence, gift boxes, receipts, and more. (etsy.com, $17+)… Though published 24 years ago, Ken Blanchard and Sheldon Bowles’ parable-infused tome RAVING FANS: A REVOLUTIONARY APPROACH TO CUSTOMER SERVICE remains relevant today, offering practical tips and a commonsense approach to winning—and keeping—customers. (amazon.com, $13)… Let your best customers know how much you appreciate them—and stand out from others in the digital age—with simple, handwritten THANK-YOU CARDS (pictured, opposite page, far right) on thick, elegant paper. (hallmark.com, $10–$12 for a box of 50)

91

(OPPOSITE PAGE) JONATHAN PUSHNIK; TOP (L–R): COURTESY OF SHINOLA; STEFANO BUONAMICI/ THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX; SHUTTERSTOCK; SAMAEL334/ISTOCK/GETTY; FLOWERS: WEBB CHAPPELL

GIFTS TO IMPROVE THE STORE Streamline daily cleaning with a robotic vacuum. The Wi-Fi– enabled IROBOT ROOMBA 960 (pictured, right) works on carpet and hard surfaces. Simply set it and go. (irobot.com, $699)… Quality, high-resolution STORE PHOTOS —exterior, interior, staff members, and products—would go a long way toward enlivening your website, social media, and other marketing materials. Maybe a loved one hires a pro photographer for the work, or perhaps it’s a gift from your artistically talented though cash-strapped niece. Or someone could gift you the tools to set up your own in-house studio: a DSLR camera with a macro lens, tripod, desktop light box, and tent-style light shed. (bhphotovideo.com, $675+)… From dramatic, framed black-and-white photographs featuring jewelry products or local landmarks to colorful abstract paintings or an antique city map, ORIGINAL ARTWORK can add personality and flair to any retail showroom. (art.com)…

When filled with fresh flowers like jasmines or lilies, VASES peppered around the showroom can deliver splashes of color and pleasing aromas. (target.com, $2–$50)… With cardstock and MINI EASELS, you can highlight prominent details of your most unusual jewelry and tell the distinctive story behind each design. (usartsupply.com, $19 for a pack of 24)

GIFTS FOR ENTERTAINING Whether offering complimentary cookies to everyday customers or presenting hors d’oeuvres during an in-store VIP event, SERVING PLATTERS ensure a sophisticated presentation. (worldmarket.com, $6–$40)… Like serving platters, glass DRINK DISPENSERS, pitchers, and carafes provide a more polished look anytime you serve beverages to shoppers. (worldmarket. com, $5–$20)… A practical piece of office furniture such as the COSCO 8-FOOT CENTERFOLD TABLE can accommodate staff brainstorming sessions or food and drink during a party before easily collapsing for space-savvy storage. (walmart.com, $60)… If you host events in your store or showcase your business outside of the physical storefront (think: art fairs),

Take a cue from Philadelphia’s Egan Day (opposite page) and Shinola in NYC’s SoHo (above, l.) and deck your walls with artwork and photos.

a CUSTOM TABLE COVER carrying your store logo, address, and website info brands your business in a professional way. (premiertablelinens.com, $130 for 8-foot table cover)… Will you use CROWD-CONTROL POSTS (pictured, top) every day? No. But could they come in handy to direct customers during in-store special events or a big sale? Absolutely. (uline.com, $119+)

GIFTS TO MAKE YOUR LIFE EASIER Admit it: That DESK CHAIR you sit in daily is the same one you planted yourself in during the Clinton administration.

A change could do you—and your body—good. (staples. com, $79–$300+)… Get your morning caffeine fix and give employees a small back-office perk with the KEURIG K140 SERIES COMMERCIAL BREWING SYSTEM , a single-cup coffee brewer. (officedepot.com, $157)… Small-business owners have to balance many tasks effectively and efficiently each day. A handy EMPLOYEE DELEGATION NOTEPAD helps retailers set priorities and get their day organized. (etsy.com, $15)… Inject efficiency into your social media marketing.

With a HOOTSUITE SUBSCRIPTION, business owners can manage their social media from a single dashboard to find and schedule effective content. (hootsuite.com, $19/month for the professional plan)… PRINTERS remain an oft-overlooked tech tool, but HP, Brother, and many others offer a range of reasonably priced printers from which retailers can produce their own high-quality posters, images, postcards, and other promotional materials. (staples.com, $150+)

WHEN YOU CAN’T DECIDE WHAT YOU WANT An OFFICE-SUPPLY STORE GIFT CARD can buy anything from cardstock to register tape, from ink cartridges to copy paper, and more retail necessities. (officedepot.com)… Don’t laugh. A DOLLAR-STORE GIFT CARD can undoubtedly come in handy. Whether you need bathroom soap, invisible tape, balloons, or seasonal knickknacks, a cornucopia of economical finds awaits at Dollar Tree and its regional discount-store brethren. (dollartree.com)

GREAT EXPECTATIONS

92

T O D AY, T H E B E S T S E RV I C E E X P E R I E N C E ANYWHERE BECOMES T H E E X P E C TAT I O N EVERY WHERE. PROVIDING A SUPERIOR CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE IS NO LONGER OPTIONAL; I T ’ S O B L I G AT O R Y.

B y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d

W

HEN CONSUMERS CAN buy any product at any time—from a multitude of competing retailers—it’s the buying experience that separates the leaders from the rest of the retail pack.

The ability to earn and maintain customer loyalty through consistency, transparency, personality, and overdelivery (on everything from fulfillment times to customization options) is what drives the bottom line in modern retailing. It’s why Amazon is the category-gobbling retail juggernaut it is today.

But while most retailers realize the importance of delighting customers, many don’t understand that practicing traditional customer service—the version that deals in fake smiles, suits and ties, Champagne, and chronic upselling—isn’t the way to do it.

There’s a reason the phrase customer service sends chills down many consumers’ spines: The term has become synonymous with impersonal corporate call centers, slick salesmanship, and mentally checked-out sales associates.

For these reasons (and likely many more), the phrase has fallen out of favor with a bevy of young brands. In a bid to reframe the act of providing flawless service as an artful exercise—instead of a set of servile actions devoid of emotion—these brands have replaced the expression with the more holistic customer experience.

“We always considered it customer experience, not customer service,” says Vanessa Stofenmacher, founder of maverick jewelry startup brand Vrai & Oro. “When I think of customer service, I think that it can be sterile and unhelpful and frustrating,” she says. “We wanted one of our key focus points to be about offering experience rather than service.”

And the evolution is about much more than semantics. “Customer service has been this stale and outdated part of business that hasn’t been really addressed in the last few decades,” Stofenmacher says. “It took something like going online and taking away that touch-and-feel and face time to [push it] forward.”

93

For decades, tight smiles and cold efficiency represented the high bar in retail.

There was even a time in the ’80s when luxury brands used snootiness as a tactic.

Remember those haughty Rodeo Drive saleswomen shunning Julia Roberts’ character in Pretty Woman? Snobbishness was synonymous with chicness.

No longer. Smart modern brands know they have to train their employees to be warm, easygoing, and empathetic to connect with modern consumers.

And these businesses are willing to invest in that training.

“A lot of customer service roles in companies are treated as entry-level,” says Stofenmacher. “But for us it’s not about getting the cheapest worker we can find; it’s about finding the right people who can really have a conversation with customers. We look for people who are problem solvers and who can be patient.”

Phillip N. Bosen, founder of jewelry retail consultancy Bosen Associates, says small retailers are typically very friendly with customers when they walk through their front door but often don’t extend that warmth through the overall customer experience. “They don’t do enough to really ingratiate themselves to the client —Vanessa Stofenmacher, Vrai & Oro base they have,” he says. “They need to be calling clients, giving gifts when [apJacques Panis, president of Shinola, also uses the propriate], paying attention to charitable giving that phrase customer experience when talking about the is actually meaningful to their clients. A lot of the many ways in which the watch and accessories brand modern service we’re seeing crosses over into marketstrives to exceed its customers’ service expectations. ing, which is important to understand.”

“We work hard to ensure that our values are clear to At Shinola’s brick-and-mortar locations and on its every customer who interacts with our brand.” website, “we focus a lot of our attention on proper How does customer experience diverge from that training and keeping our employees happy, first and of good ol’ customer service? To find out, we looked foremost,” Panis says. “It keeps them engaged and to a few of the industry’s pacesetting brands. willing to work hard—and I think our customers can

feel that.”

(L–R) EVERETT COLLECTION; THE GOOD BRIGADE/OFFSET

“It takes more time to listen to our customers, but we’re learning from them too.”

STIFF SMILES VS. AUTHENTIC FRIENDLINESS

PUSH VS. PULL

Did you know that ancient Rome had a shopping mall? It’s true. Trajan’s Forum (Rome’s other forum) was a sprawling marketplace that spanned multiple buildings and four levels. Was customer service, as we know it, born of some sheepherder’s desire to lighten his load of wool?

However the idea took hold, the concept of pleasing customers to ensure they buy is as old as retail itself. But striving to imbue the scenario with genuine friendliness is still a relatively new idea.

While some say there’s a place for commission-based sales in the jewelry and watch industries, forwardthinking brands and retailers are focusing on creating fresh alternatives. These new work environments are less competitive and more fun, and liberate employees from high-pressure practices like upselling, which studies show is unpopular with millennial consumers.

At Vrai & Oro, “we never try to upsell,” Stofenmacher says. “If someone wants a 1 carat diamond and we don’t have it, I wouldn’t push a 1.25 carat. I’d

rather say, ‘I’ll let you know when we have something in stock.’ Trust is the most important thing you can earn from a customer. If someone feels they’ve been pushed to buy a little more in that moment, they’re not going to trust you.”

RIGID RULES VS. FLEXIBILITY Amazon developed—and made ubiquitous—many of today’s most popular perks, such as fast and free shipping and no-questions-asked returns and exchanges.

These consumer conveniences have now become consumer expectations, and when brands haven’t adopted them (see: J.Crew), they’ve quickly lost market share.

“There is that expectation of free shipping and returns now, even if you’re a small business with just two or three people running around,” says Chelsey Bartrum, cofounder of startup fine jewelry brand Starling. “You kind of have to figure it out.”

For retailers who balk at the prospect of shouldering the shipping burden, jewelry retail consultant Bosen notes that “you definitely have to work the shipping cost into the price of your merchandise now.”

Adds Stofenmacher: “It’s becoming more and more obvious that any e-commerce company needs to be more flexible with return and other policies.” For Vrai & Oro, that’s meant “solving problems one by one,” she says. “We’ve really had to throw out the rule book.”

DELIVERING VS. DELIGHTING Customer experience, as a phrase, is also a nod to a growing reality: Buzzy brands are instituting practices that, in the past, would have qualified as magnificent customer service.

Shinola stores are veritable treasure chests of trendy shopper perks, ranging from free monogramming on all journals and leather goods to gratis Shinola Cola (the house beverage) and dog treats.

At Starling, a handwritten note accompanies every purchase. “We’re offering that easy, online service, but we want to deliver an experience that’s meaningful as well,” Bartrum says. “Including a card makes the purchase a little more of an experience.”

Bosen says when it comes to delighting customers, he’s a fan of simple but effective tactics: He advises his fine jewelry retail clients who frequently work with men to offer guys an ice-cold, local craft beer (a modern take on the clichéd glass of Champagne).

“Wouldn’t you offer someone in your home a beverage?” asks the consultant, adding that he knows a few retailers who “keep a couple of frosty mugs in their freezer. I’ve never seen this abused—no one’s going to get buzzed off one beer and ruin their financial future,” Bosen says. “But it’s a great way to show your customers that you care about their comfort.”

EVERY MAN HA S A STORY.

At the dawn of humanity, Woolly Mammoths roamed the Earth.

Our Retro bracelet celebrates the legacy of these extraordinary creatures, featuring inlays of 10,000-year-old fossil Mammoth tooth.

Crafted from history, for a man living his legend.

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

YOU’VE GOT MALE HOW TO ACCESSORIZE FOR EVERY OCCASION

7+,6 +2/,'$<

'21 7 )25*(7 7+( *8<6

COVER LOOK 1. Portofino HandWound Moon Phase in 45 mm steel case on alligator strap; $13,000; IWC Schaffhausen; 800432-9330; iwc.com 2. Sky-Dweller in 42 mm steel and 18k yellow gold Oyster case; $17,150; Rolex; 800-36-ROLEX; rolex.com 3. Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic Titanio 45 mm with dark blue alligator strap; $11,200; Panerai; 877-7263724; panerai.com

1 2

3

YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;VE GOT MALE

Our guide to accessorizing for any and every occasionâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;from the office to the operaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;with watches, bracelets, rings, and more.

Bedrock Chrono in 42 mm stainless steel case; $1,000; Shinola; 888-3042534; shinola.com

Speedmaster CoAxial Chronometer Chronograph ST/ ST in 38 mm steel case with gray dial; $4,900; Omega; 201-271-1400; omegawatches.com

-!2+%4).'Ă?3500/24Ă?!6!),!",% #OPYĂ? Ă?0ASTE 3OCIALĂ?-EDIAĂ?0ROGRAM

)N STORE 0ROMOTIONALĂ?%VENTS

3ALES/NE ,,# #

.ATIONAL !DĂ?#AMPAIGN

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENNETH WILLARDT Styling: SOLANGE FRANKLIN AT THE WALL GROUP; Hair: RUDY MARTINS FOR ALTERNA AT THE WALL GROUP; Makeup: JUSTINE PURDUE AT STREETERS USING MAC COSMETICS; Manicurist: HONEY FOR EXPOSURE NY USING DEBORAH LIPPMANN NAIL COLOR IN â&#x20AC;&#x153;RESPECTâ&#x20AC;?

Models: PATRICK RUKAI/SOUL ARTIST MANAGEMENT CHELSEY WEIMAR/SUPREME MANAGEMENT

A M A N F O R A L L S E A S O N S

97

2

G O WAY B EYO N D WATC H E S W I T H A RT F U L LY E C L E C T I C J EW E L RY I N C O R P O R AT I N G EVERYTHING FROM SILICONE AND STEEL TO DINOSAUR BONE AND DIAMONDS

By Martha C. White

1

MODEL: MARCEL FLORUSS OF ONE DAPPER STREET; PHOTOGRAPH: BRYANT LITTREAN

3 FORMAL This combo of polished and craggy evokes Daniel Craig as 007: Natural stones and mixed metals give an edge to fluid organic lines.

1/ 1815 chronograph with white gold case and alligator leather strap; $50,300; A. Lange & Söhne; info@langesoehne.com; alange-soehne.com

2/ Arc tie pin in gold-plated sterling silver; £350 ($475); Shaun Leane; 44-207-493-9601; shaunleane.com

3/ Fusion cuff in sterling silver and 14k yellow gold with black rhodium plating; $450; Miansai; wholesale@ miansai.com; miansai.com

5

4/ For Love Nor Money ring in 14k yellow gold with black ceramic; $2,150; Stephen Webster; 310246-9500; stephenwebster.com

4

5/ Geode cufflinks in silver with rhodium plating; £495 ($672); Tateossian; fadi@tateossian.com; tateossian.com

98

WEEKEND A little bit road trip, a little bit rock ’n’ roll—these pieces put the pedal to the (heavy) metal with accents of tire-tread rubber, woven leather, and industrial elements.

1

2

3 5 1/ Oxidized sterling silver Punta Galera medium space bracelet; $580; Yossi Harari; 201-357-5010; yossiharari.com

2/ Dino Apex sterling silver pendant with fossilized dinosaur bone; $875; William Henry; sales@ williamhenry.com; williamhenry.com

3/ Combination-lock ring in ruthenium and rhodium; £350 ($475); Tateossian; fadi@tateossian.com; tateossian.com

4/ Street Racer stainless steel watch with silicone band; $1,195; CT Scuderia; info@ timeconcepts.net; ctscuderia.com

5/ Braided leather bracelet with anodized stainless steel accents; $143; SevenFriday; usa@ sevenfriday.com; sevenfriday.com

MODEL: MARCEL FLORUSS OF ONE DAPPER STREET; PHOTOGRAPH: JAMES CREEL

4

99

BUSINESS

1

MODEL: MARCEL FLORUSS OF ONE DAPPER STREET; PHOTOGRAPH: STEFANO CRACOLICI

2

The new Mr. Big loosens the power tie and takes the corner office in a new direction with bold shapes, regal hues, and dynastic imagery.

5

3 1/ Executive Moonstruck Worldtimer with platinum case and leather strap; $95,000; Ulysse Nardin; 561-988-8600; ulysse-nardin.com

2/ Poseidon collection sterling silver and 18k gold ring with lapis; $1,600; Konstantino; info@konstantino. com; konstantino.com

3/ Reversible Lock bracelet in 18k gold with diamonds and gray sapphires; $17,110; Shamballa Jewels; 212226-8794; shamballajewels.com

4/ Reversible chain link bracelet in sterling silver and blue enamel; $2,125; Vahan; sales@vahan jewelry.com; vahanjewelry.com

4

5/ Sterling silver cufflinks with onyx and ruby; $214; Phillip Gavriel; phillip@royalchain.com; phillipgavriel.com

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

101

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

THE VAULT GLOBE TROTTER A stonecutter in Israel chiseled the heart from a hunk of rough tanzanite. The bauble’s gems were set in both Thailand and Hong Kong. “There was quite a bit of coordination between different parties to get the whole piece done,” the designer says, “but this is how most of our pieces are made.”

A MIGHTY HEART

THE GEORGIAN-ER A fashion trend of women adorning themselves with fresh flowers was the inspiration for this wildly romantic convertible necklace by Simone Jewels. The deep-blue tanzanite heart—which doubles as the front of a locket—also detaches to become a brooch and pendant. Designer Simone Ng says she’s thrilled that its wearer “can enjoy the exposed back of the gemstone, and also keep something close to their heart in the hidden compartment.” —EMILI VESILIND

ELEGANT DESIGN Ensuring that the locket was

functional—with its hinges hidden—was among the major challenges in bringing the jewel to life. Says Ng: “In order to make the piece transitional meant the mechanisms needed to be done well and be easy to use, without compromising the design.”

BLUE HEAVEN The 18k white gold piece

boasts a magnificent 14.63 ct. unheated heartshape blue tanzanite and also features 5.6 cts. t.w. diamonds, 33.42 cts. t.w.

Mediterranean pink coral, and a 10.4 mm Tahitian pearl.

JCKONLINE.COM

THE VAULT

COLORED STONES

ON INSTAGRAM HOT STOCK TIP

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

GREEN STYLE

STAY IN THE KNOW.

For her new collaboration with Gemfields, designer Zoë Chicco reworked a clutch of her delicate 14k gold and diamond layering pieces using responsibly sourced emeralds from Zambia (in marquise, emerald, and pear shapes). The collection includes stylish stacking rings, thin bracelets, and simple but chic pendant necklaces. Prices range from $350 to $1,750. —EMILI VESILIND

@JCKMAGAZINE ON INSTAGRAM.

FOLLOW

See what's trending in jewelry this month, this week, this minute.

Get connected on your phone or your desktop.

Swirl ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.24 ct. Zambian emerald and 0.01 ct. diamond; $795; zoechicco.com

Customizable birthstone rings in 14k white and rose gold; $800 and up; My Story Fine Jewelry; concierge@mystory finejewelry.com; mystoryfine jewelry.com

Skinny engraveable dog tag pendant in 14k rose gold with diamonds; $1,250

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

TALKING STORY Blue topaz birthstone earrings in 14k white gold; $600 (also sold as singles)

PAVÉ FINE JEWELRY ’S STUNNING SAPPHIRES! SEE jckonline.com/topics/ coloredstones FOR THAT AND MORE.

INSTAGRAM.COM/JCKMAGAZINE

In November 2013, Timeless Fine Jewelry’s Jackie Cohen adopted a baby girl, just eight days after connecting with the birth mother. In search of a piece to commemorate her long journey to motherhood, the New York City–based jeweler created a 14k yellow gold ring set with a baguette-cut citrine and named it the Julia, after her now-4-year-old daughter.

The following June, she

wore it to JCK Las Vegas.

“All my clients loved it,” Cohen recalls. “I’d tell them about Julia, they’d tell me their stories. They asked if I could make the rings in other colors.” The positive feedback spawned Cohen’s elegant My Story Fine Jewelry collection of birthstone jewels, which now includes gem-set skinny dog tags, earrings, and variations on the Julia with price points starting around $900 retail. A portion of sales goes to HelpUsAdopt.org.

—VICTORIA GOMELSKY

B”H

Chain Included

THE VAULT

GOLD HOT STOCK TIP

LANDSCAPE ARTIST Original Eve designer Eve Streicker has a serious case of wanderlust.

Her first collection, Terracing Peru, pays homage to the mountainous South American country, where she saw terraces “that wrap around cliffs like ribbon,” recalls the New York City–based Streicker. “And everywhere you looked there was incredible shadow play…which is why the jewelry has a high-polished finish and strong shadows in every lighting scenario.” She’s already planning her next line, an ode to Portugal’s volcanic archipelago, the Azores: “At the top of the peaks that make up the islands are incredible crater lakes in very vivid blues and greens.” Who knows what locale will inspire her next? —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Terrace open hoop earrings in 18k yellow gold; $3,200; originaleve.com

Available from size 8 to 14

3 Sizes Available

Choker necklace in 14k yellow gold; $605; Royal Chain Group; sales@ royalchain.com; royalchain.com

BACK TO BASICS

ROYAL TREATMENT

Third-generation jewelry manufacturer and distributor Royal Chain is celebrating a very special birthday next year: the big 4-0. While the company plans to release new designs in time for JCK Las Vegas 2018, for now, it’s focusing on going back to basics—and that means gold, gold, and more gold. “Consumers are embracing the simplicity of the polished yellow gold like we haven’t seen since the turn of the century,” says vice president Phillip Gabriel Maroof. “The beauty of our classic gold pieces is that they are so versatile, and so timeless, that in another 40 years we will probably still be selling many of those same items.” —BRITTANY SIMINITZ JCKONLINE.COM

Bracelet in 14k yellow gold with garnet, peridot, blue topaz, citrine, and amethyst; $370

Bead link drop earrings in 14k gold; $305 (sold as pair)

WWAKE DOES MILLENNIAL PINK! SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE.

Stainless Steel Jewelry for Men

www.arzsteel.com info@arzsteel.com 514-489-8668 Looking for Sales Reps

J

y

ɗɕ � F

ɗʃ ɖɔɕɜ

J W M A R R I O T T T U C S O N S TA R R P A S S R E S O R T & S P A

J C K T U C S O N I S A C U R AT E D D E S T I N AT I O N O F F I N I S H E D J E W E L R Y, T E C H N O LO G Y A N D LO O S E GEMSTONES FROM THE FINEST VENDORS AND SUPPLIERS. SURROUNDED BY PICTURESQUE N AT U R A L B E A U T Y, T H I S I S T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y ’ S I N T I M AT E W I N T E R O A S I S O F F E R I N G A RELAXING YET PRODUCTIVE, EXPERIENTIAL ENVIRONMENT FOR BUSINESS AND NETWORKING. OPEN TO ALL QUALIFIED JEWELRY PROFESSIONALS.

R E G I ST R AT I O N I S N OW O P E N ! F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N , V I S I T : J C K O N L I N E .C O M /T U C S O N I NT E R E ST E D I N E X H I B I T I N G ? C O NTA C T A L E X A N D R A W U R ST E R AT AW U R ST E R � R E E DJ E W E L RYG R O U P.C O M

105

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

Radiant ring in 18k yellow gold with 1.54 cts. t.w. diamonds; $9,210; Fernando Jorge; 929-314-4570; fernandojorge.co.uk

SHOW BIZ

GLOBAL SWARMING

January’s VicenzaOro is set to welcome a cohort of international buyers and sellers

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

F

AMED FOR ITS architecture, its Carnival celebrations, and the powerful Venetian republic that ruled its namesake city between the seventh and 18th centuries, the Italian region of Veneto boasts yet another distinction: Italy’s largest concentration of high-end gold jewelry manufacturers.

Owing to its location at the nexus of the region, the January VicenzaOro show, taking place Jan. 19–24 at the Vicenza fairgrounds, has earned a reputation as a hub for exceptional Italian design. And thanks to the growing number of international exhibitors who come to Vicenza to capitalize on the influx of design-centric buyers, it’s also become the place to get first dibs on jewelry’s most fashion-forward styles.

JCKONLINE.COM

“Our international profile and quality content are the key points at next January’s edition,” says Corrado Facco, managing director of Fiera di Vicenza, the show organizer. “We’re providing a chance for companies and brands to come into contact with new and super-selected buyers in a context that is one-of-its-kind on the planet.”

In 2015, the organizers unveiled a format dubbed “The Boutique Show,” in which exhibitors are grouped into communities based on their products, positioning, and overall image.

Featured areas include fashion jewelry, private-label jewelry, loose stones, technology, and global brands.

Last year, the show added a capsule space, the Design Room, to house “some of the most exclusive names in the business,” according to Facco.

In January, that list will include Fernando Jorge and Nikos Koulis, two of the industry’s buzziest designers. In addition, attendees can count on bedrock Italian brands—such as Antonini and Nanis—to showcase gold collections marked by a forward-thinking ethos. Veni, vidi, Vicenza!

SHOW BIZ

BEST IN SHOW Green corundum, lapis, and blue quartz ring in 14k gold– plated brass; $220; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com

ONLINE.COM THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

STAY CONNECTED WITH

JCKONLINE.COM. The industry’s go-to online source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry.

— JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.

Sea Turtle aqua pendant with Italian enamel and pavé-set CZ in sterling silver; $225; Belle Étoile; 415-626-9223; belle etoilejewelry.com

COASTAL CHARM

Retailers and exhibitors were in a Sunshine State of mind at the October JIS show in Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

F

BY EMILI VESILIND

OR ITS ANNUAL October show— which is always held in Miami—JIS successfully made lemonade out of a heap of lemons.

Mere weeks before the Oct. 8–11 show, organizers heard from the just-renovated Miami Beach Convention Center that because of damage from Hurricane Irma, it would be unavailable to host the event.

The JIS show ultimately decamped 30 miles north to Fort Lauderdale, then invested $250,000 in programs designed to ease attendees’ travel concerns.

For many retailers, the perks (including subsidies for local travel) made the move a snap. “It was easy to get to

the venue and was overall a very good package for a show,” reported Stuart Dunkin, owner of Fort Myers, Fla.– based Dunkin’s Diamonds.

Vendors said foot traffic was brisk, though a handful of brands that typically meet at JIS with clients from the Caribbean—an area still in recovery after hurricanes Irma and Maria— reported lagging sales.

Others reported business on par with that of recent years. “We’re doing more than we expected,” said Filippo Giannini, commercial manager for Italian jewelry brand K di Kuore, an exhibitor. “We’re really happy.”

Trends that emerged included floral-motif jewelry (Le Perle di Caltagirone’s hand-painted floral bead pieces and Belle Étoile’s enamel designs were especially striking); glittering pavé diamond pieces, as shown by vendors including Shy Creation and Tasha R; and labradorite, which popped up in chic creations from Cristina Sabatini and Bounkit, among others.

“There are so many pretty things,” enthused Meg Carroll, owner of Meg C Gallery in Lexington, Ky. “You have to walk slowly to see it all.”

JIS JANUARY RUNS JAN. 20–22 IN MIAMI. TO LEARN MORE, VISIT jisshow.com.

JCKONLINE.COM

JCKONLINE.COM

107

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME

“It’s comforting for my customers that they can look me in the eye when we’re talking about their piece.”

—PAUL BIERKER

VIRTUAL ENCOUNTERS

How to use Skype with your customers (hint: wear pants!)

A

SOLISIMAGES/GETTY

BY EMILI VESILIND

S CUSTOM JEWELRY becomes more and more popular, smart retailers are expanding their client base beyond their geographical region by connecting with consumers over video—with Skype leading the charge.

Paul Bierker, a custom jewelry designer based in Lawrenceville, Pa., uses Skype (along with mobile video chat apps) to connect with clients in more than 20 different countries. He likes the digital face-to-facing because “video creates an intimacy that you don’t [cultivate] over the phone or on email,” he says. “It’s comforting for my customers that they can look me in the eye when we’re talking about their piece.”

But there’s a fine art to connecting with customers on a platform that requires a modicum of tech savvy to operate smoothly and is plagued by the occasional (and maddening) dropped connection. We asked James Matero, a jeweler at Jaymark Jewelers in Cold Spring, N.Y.—a store that lets shoppers

schedule Skype appointments online— to share his tips for using the system.

do everything we do in the showroom except give them a cup of coffee.”

PRIVATE PRACTICE

FRIEND EARLY (AND OFTEN)

Matero and his sister, fellow jeweler Katie Szirmay, mastered the nuances of Skype by doing some mock sessions with friends. “In the end, retailers need to figure out how Skype works on their operating system,” he says.

“You told your customers to use Skype, so you have to be able to help them.”

Matero also recommends plugging a laptop or computer into the internet when Skype-ing with customers to avoid patchy wireless connections or dropping a session altogether.

In order to chat, both parties have to be “friends” on Skype. So once you make a date to video-chat, request your customer’s Skype name directly. (The online form to make a Skype appointment at Jaymark includes a field where customers provide their moniker, and Matero sends a Skype request to clients the day he receives their info.)

LEARN TO SHARE Knowing how to share links and photos is key to working well with shoppers on Skype. “Clients can share a link to an Etsy shop or a screenshot,” he says, “and I can share a live rendering of a design from Matrix. We really can

JCKONLINE.COM

DRESS FOR SUCCESS Lastly, don’t let the intimacy of the medium lull you into wearing sloppy-looking clothes while Skypeing. And Matero, who wears a dress shirt and tie for Skype appointments, warns retailers to…wear pants: “You won’t mean to do it, but at some point you’ll stand up—and there you will be, with your Superman boxers on display.

That’s a moment you want to avoid.”

FRESH NEW LOOK, SAME INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

TOOL TIME

THE GOODS

“

I couldn’t be more excited about the new JCK magazine, including the website and the social media....

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

KRONABY APEX

YOU GUYS NAILED IT.”

Swedish wearable brand Kronaby’s first-ever collection is composed of four men’s smartwatch styles that pair the handsome hallmarks of a luxury analog timepiece with of-the-moment wearable technology. The Apex, arguably the most casual of the four models, is loaded with useful tools that jibe with what Kronaby calls “human technology” (basically, how we operate as humans). It packs a host of usual-suspect functions, including call/text/email notifications, a step counter, and a phone finder. But the Apex also possesses several seemingly simple features that are actually rather ingenious. —EV

—Ursula Piekut, marketing director, Treliss Worldwide Inc.

“

L.O.V.E. Current. Luxury-focused.

Smart. Great work.

”

—Dan Scott, CMO, World Trade Jewelers

“

It is difficult to take something that is already fabulous and MAKE IT

EVEN MORE AMAZING!” —Dallas Prince, designer

“

Absolutely LOVE the new JCK issue! Very well done, beautiful aesthetic, and SO MUCH

FUN TO READ.” —Maren Rosen, VP of merchandising, bridal and jewelry, Stuller

What we liked: The companion Kronaby app is beautifully designed. You assign the action you want your dual push buttons to control by dragging and dropping them into a field. You can also decline an incoming call from your watch, control your phone’s camera shutter, and send a distress signal to someone. Oh, and the Apex’s battery lasts two years.

What we didn’t like: Where’s the women’s Kronaby? The Apex—and all the Kronaby styles—was clearly designed to fit men’s wrists. But so many of its features would benefit modern women on the go.

Best feature: The Apex’s GeoTag function lets you pinpoint your exact location—so wherever you roam, you can easily return to your original location. This feature proved especially helpful when parking at a busy mall; finding a gray sedan in a sea of gray sedans was never this easy. ($595–$675; kronaby.com)

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

SLIM ENGAGEMENT RING BOX The square dimensions of engagement ring boxes

FITBIT’S FIRST-EVER SMARTWATCH! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

have spoiled more than a few surprise proposals. Enter the Slim Engagement Ring Box, a cool new product from Presentation Box + Display (a division of International Packaging). The lean box lets the person doing the proposing carry the intended’s ring in a front or back jeans pocket without detection. And the box’s low profile doesn’t sacrifice presentation.

Open the lid and the ring—which lies flat when the box is closed— pops up and forward, assuming the traditional upright position.

The accessibly priced case—which comes in lots of 12—can be customized with a store name or logo. ($3.99 for 12; presbox.com) —EV JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

109

Ovadia Corp.

William Henry 3200 NE Rivergate St. McMinnville, OR 97128 Tel: 888-563-4500 Email: sales@williamhenry.com Website: williamhenry.com

101 E. Main St. Little Falls, NJ 07424 Tel: 973-256-9200 Email: sales@ovadia.com Website: ovadia.com

William Henry creates jewelry and luxury accessories for men: rare, handcrafted pieces that integrate exotic materials, precious metals, and gemstones with bold and masculine design. Made for men of distinction.

Ovadia’s Gemini is a new display system for understock, showcase and travel. Each Gemini tray has two removable inserts - one for display and another for storing jewelry. Inserts can also act as stand-alone displays. Pieces shown are petite size, weighing 145 grams each (larger sizes available).

Stuller Inc.

Gold Craft Jewelry Corp.

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

640 S. Hill St., Suite 650 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8673 Fax: 213-623-4673 Email: gc.mfg@att.net

In our new Jewelry 2018–2019 catalog, you’ll find the perfect blend of classics and fashion. Explore 800 pages of the latest trends in rings, pendants, bands, and more at stuller.com/jewelrycatalog2018.

Le Vian® Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Le Vian reveals its latest styles featuring the 2018 Spring Color of the Year, Nude, like this 18k Honey Gold™ ring with a 5.66 ct.

Neopolitan Opal™ accented with 1.2 cts. Chocolate Diamonds® and Vanilla Diamonds®.

JCKONLINE.COM

Exquisite 14k gold frames for coins. Frames for Credit Suisse, American eagle, peso, Canadian maple, and more. Frames in plain and rope are designed to fit all size coins. Teardrop frame comes in 1/10 ounce, 1/4 ounce, 1/2 ounce, and 1 ounce.

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

110

TraxSALES 6830 N. Eldridge Parkway #302 Houston, TX 77041 Tel: 888-534-1253/713-466-7177 Email: sales@traxsales.com Website: traxsales.com TraxSales.com has been providing retail sales force automation and customer relationship management for 21 years. Learn your accurate closing ratios and liberate your sales team to be the best they can be.

Happy salespeople = happy customers! Call 713-466-7177.

Rahaminov Diamonds 606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com Rahaminov Diamondsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; modern and fashionable trillion cut diamond is set in a platinum bezel ring.

Midas Chain Hoover & Strong 10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com Hoover & Strong has a brand-new band catalog! Ask for yours today.

We offer competitive pricing on hundreds of die struck bands, including classic, fancy, two-tone, multi-tone, and diamond styles. All made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals.

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group 24 Jewelers Park Dr. Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com Businesses like yours have trusted Jewelers Mutual for support since 1913. Contact us to learn how we can help you become safer, more secure, and more successful.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

50 McDermott Place Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 877-643-2765 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com The 14k yellow gold diamond paw necklace is meticulously designed and is absolutely adorable. Everyone loves animals, and what better way to show it than through such a beautiful piece!

MSRP: $399

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere.

We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.

JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE Arch Crown Inc. Earstuds USA 5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 Email: david@earstudsusa.com Website: earstudsusa.com This stunning, stylish rose gold diamond tennis bracelet has 19.1 cts. t.w. G-H color and 51 clarity diamonds.

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: orders@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Turn browsers into buyers with our preprinted tags and labels for holiday promotions. Ideal for identifying precious and semi-precious jewelry, new items, special sales, price reductions, and seasonal clearances. Ask about our assortment special—100 styles to choose from!

Find out how to get featured in Product Showcase. Contact your JCK sales representative today.

NEWS DAILY THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Delivering the industry’s top stories to the inboxes of 18,500 professionals every day.

— Original, not aggregated, content.

— Immediate engagement with top decision-makers.

SIGN UP TODAY AT JCKONLINE.COM

JCKONLINE.COM

111

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

112

Herco

Artistry Ltd.

833 Market St., 10th Floor San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-543-1580, 1-800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Email: info@herco.com Website: herco.com

8272 N. Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: info@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com

Herco offers a wide variety of 14k and 18k white, yellow, and pink gold jewelry. We also carry many items in platinum, silver, palladium, and stainless steel.

Necklace and earrings from Artistry’s Ginkgo Leaf collection in 14K yellow gold. MSRP for necklace: $375. Earrings: $295. Other pieces available in the collection. Call for a new 2018 catalog.

JWL.com Inc. Rahaminov Diamonds 606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com Rahaminov Diamonds’ movál halo pendant is set east-west in 18k white gold.

Ashi Diamonds 18 E. 48th St., 14th Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-319-8291 Fax: 212-319-4341 Email: kalyani@ashidiamonds.com Website: ashidiamonds.com ASHI Diamonds is thrilled to announce the launch of the 2017 Holiday Wish Book. This year, ASHI has included exclusive jewelry from its Couture line and the newest additions from its Lovebright and I DO Bridal collections, as well as the hottest and latest trends in fashion jewelry. For more info, call 800-622-2744 or visit ashidiamonds.com.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

23024 Conde Drive Valencia, CA 91354 Tel: 310-922-4757 Fax: 310-922-4757 Email: larry@accountec.com Website: jwl.com We are the jewelry industry’s future digital currency, providing safe, secure, and easy global payment processing. Visit our website to receive free 250 digital coins.

Christopher Designs 50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@crisscut.com Website: christopherdesigns.com Christopher Designs impeccably blends old-world luxury and style with modern technology to create exclusive designs that include our patented Crisscut® and L’Amour Crisscut diamonds. When placed side by side with our competition, the difference is truly clear.

JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

americas Gold americas Diamonds 650 S. Hill St., Suite 224 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-688-4904 Fax: 213-688-1504 Email: info@americasgold.com Website: americasgold.com One of the most popular and best-selling in men’s jewelry. 14k yellow gold Miami Cuban link necklace with 5.50 cts. t.w. diamonds.

113

SWJ/Southwest Jewel 3500 Bluebonnet Circle Fort Worth, TX 76109 Tel: 214-522-8300/800-797-9477 Email: swjswiss@sbcglobal.net Website: southwestjewel.com SWJ is a family-owned, full-service Swiss watch wholesale company serving the trade for 38 years. We offer over 20 Swiss brands, specializing in pre-owned Rolex. We also offer diamond accessories and dial refinishing for the Rolex, with all work completed by our Master watchmakers. Watches have a two-year warranty.

JCK offers ad opportunities from classifieds to campaigns. Contact your sales representative today.

ONLINE.COM THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

The industry’s go-to online source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry.

— JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.

Fine Jewelry Displays

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 JCKONLINE.COM

JCKONLINE.COM

,,,- >Z`e^ Kh\d ;eo]' Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com

ADVERTISING

INDEX

114

A.R.Z. Steel pg. 103 Website: arzsteel.com Email: info@arzsteel.com Phone: 514-489-8668 Fax: 514-489-6929

EVOCATEUR pg. 26 Website: evocateurstyle.com Phone: 203-820-8786

AGTA pg. 2-3 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162

FULI Peridot Mining Industry Co., Ltd. pg. 35 Website: fuliperidot.com Email: ybflgls@163.com Phone: +86 0433-6438888

Alex Velvet pg. 113 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900

Gdansk International Fair Co. pg. 33 Website: amberif.pl Email: amberif@mtgsa.com.pl Phone: +48 58 554 91 34

American Grown Diamonds pg. 19 Website: americangrowndiamonds.com Email: info@americangrowndiamonds.com Phone: 212-575-3057

GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250

americas Gold | americas Diamonds pg. 27 Website: americasgold.com Email: info@americasgold.com Toll-Free: 800-621-3618

Herco pg. 48 Website: herco.com Email: info@herco.com Toll-Free: 800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699

Andréa Candela pg. 15 Website: andreacandela.com Toll-Free: 888-314-5998

Hoover & Strong pg. 54 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Artistry Ltd. pg. 22 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Ashi Diamonds pg. 9 Website: ashidiamonds.com Email: info@ashidiamonds.com Phone: 212-319-8391 Toll-Free: 800-622-ASHI Belle Étoile pg. 51 Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Toll-Free: 877-838-6728 Beverley K pg. 25 Website: beverleyk.com Email: info@beverleyk.com Phone: 619-465-4789 Charles & Colvard pg. 60-61 Website: charlesandcolvard.com Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Toll-Free: 800-210-4367 Christopher Designs pg. 29 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970 Costar Imports pg. 24 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR Earstuds USA pg. 40 Website: earstudsusa.com Email: sales@earstudsusa.com Toll-Free: 866-327-7883 Elle Time and Jewelry pg. 111 Website: ellejewelry.com Email: sales@ellejewelry.com Phone: 469-221-0866 Fax: 214-637-8676

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

Istanbul Jewelry Show pg. 100 Website: istanbuljewelryshow.com Email: info-rotaforte@ubm.com Phone: +90 212 519 07 19 JCK Events pg. 44-45, 59, 104 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers’ Mutual Insurance pg. 21 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 4-5 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 JWL pg. 70 Website: JWL.com Email: info@jwl.com Phone: 866-545-9871 Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Mastoloni pg. 62-63 Website: mastoloni.com Toll-Free: 800-347-3275 Midas pg. 11 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765

Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 7 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Rand & Paseka pg. 20 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 39, 66-67 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rembrandt Charms pg. 37 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811 Salesone LLC pg. 96 Website: salesone.org Email: sales@salesone.org Toll-Free: 866-507-2537 Shy Creation Inc. pg. 17 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 Stuller Inc. pg. 53 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Synchrony Financial pg. 36 Website: synchronybusiness.com/luxury Toll-Free: 855-433-3772 Tasha R pg. 68-69 Website: tashar.com Email: info@tashar.com Toll-Free: 888-999-1597 TraxSALES.com pg. 30 Email: Dave@TraxSALES.com Phone: 713-466-7177 Toll-Free: 888-534-1253 Fax: 713-466-7392 Umicore pg. 43 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 Wilkerson pg. 23 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333 William Henry pg. 94 Website: williamhenry.com Email: info@williamhenry.com Phone: 503-434-9700 Toll-Free: 888-563-4500 Fax: 503-434-9704

United States Postal Service Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation 1) Title of Publication: JCK. 2) Publication Number: USPS 434-570. 3) Date of Filing. October 1, 2017 4) Issue Frequency: January/February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October and November/December. 5) Number of Issues Published Annually: 7. 6) Annual Subscription Price: $59.95.

7) Complete Mailing Address of known Office of Publication: Reed Exhibitions, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, NY, NY 10007. 8) Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: Reed Exhibitions, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, NY, NY 10007. 9) Publisher: Mark Smelzer, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, NY, NY 10007. Editor: Victoria Gomelsky, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, NY, NY 10007. Managing Editor: Melissa Bernardo, One World Trade Center, 28th Floor, NY, NY 10007. 10) Owner: Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk, CT 06851. 11) Known Bondholders, Mortgagees, and Other Security Holders Owner or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgage or Other Securities. None. 12) Tax Status: NA. 13) Publication Title: JCK. 14) Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: July/August 2017. 15) Extent and Nature of Circulation: Average Number of copies of each issue during the preceding 12 months: (a) Total number of copies printed (net press run): 29,073. (b) Paid/Requested Distribution (1) Paid/Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions: 15,461. (2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions: 0. (3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales and other Paid/Requested distribution: 271. (4) Requested copies distributed by Other Mail Classes: 0. (c) Total Paid and/or Requested circulation: 15,732. (d) Nonrequested Distribution

by Mail (1) Outside County nonrequested: 10,235. (2) In County nonrequested: 0. (3) Nonrequested copies distributed through USPS by Other Classes of Mail: 0. (4) Nonrequested Distribution outside the mail: 2,449. d. Total Nonrequested Distribution: 12,684. Total Distribution: 28,416. (g) Copies not Distributed: 658. (h) Total: 29,073. (i) % Paid/Requested Circulation 55.4%. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: (a) Total number of copies printed (net press run): 28,708. (b) Paid/Requested Distribution issue published nearest to filing date: (a) Total number of copies printed (net press run): 28,708. (b) Paid/ Requested Distribution Mail Subscriptions: 14,648. (2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions: 0. (3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales and other Paid/Requested distribution: 371. (4) Requested copies distributed

by Other Mail Classes: 0. (c) Total Paid and/or Requested circulation: 15,019. (d) Nonrequested Distribution by Mail (1) Outside County nonrequested: 10,669.

(2) In County nonrequested: 0. (3) Nonrequested copies distributed through USPS

by Other Classes of Mail: 0. (4) Nonrequested Distribution outside the mail: 1,770. (e) Total Nonrequested Distribution: 12,439. (f ) Total Distribution: 27,458. (g) Copies not Distributed: 1,250. (h) Total: 28,705 (i) % Paid/Requested Circulation 54.7%. 16) Electonic Copy Circulation: 0. 17) Publication of Statement of Ownership will be printed in the November/December 2017 issue of this publication. 18) I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete.

Mark Smelzer, Publisher October 1, 2017.

Copyright ©2017 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 148 No. 7 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95

by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.

This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

Mira Style Jewellery Company Limited pg. 64-65 Website: estore.mirastyle.com Email: info@mirastyle.com Phone: 213-622-5233 Fax: 213-622-5549

JCKONLINE.COM

CLASSIFIEDS

115

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

REPS WANTED

SERVICES TO TRADE

JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES

Joshua J Fine Jewelry is taking applications for a district sales manager for the Western United States. The territory is one third of the U.S. and stretches from Illinois, Colorado, California and all states in between.

Custom Colored Gem Cutting American style precision cutting or gem repairs.

Gems of the Hill Country

The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com Heritage Appraisers Inc. is seeking experienced, professional Independent Jewelry Appraisers to work as sub-contractors. Several territories available: Texas, Idaho, Utah, Illinois, Minnesota, and Northern New York. Other territories may come available. Appraiser must have a Graduate Gemologist degree (GIA preferred or FGA International School of Gemology). You must also be a member of a professional, national jewelry appraisal organization (NAJA preferred). If you have a pleasant personality, are well-organized, and have an ability to work independently in a fastpaced environment, contact us today! Some travel required. Please email resume to: llott@heritage-appraisers.com

SCHOOLS & EDUCATION JEWELRY CLASSES t 8BY .PEFMJOH t $BTUJOH .PME .BLJOH t #FBE 1FBSM 4USJOHJOH t %JBNPOE 4FUUJOH t 3FOEFSJOH %FTJHO t +FXFMSZ 3FQBJS -POH BOE 4IPSU 5FSN $PVSTFT EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. &BTU 4USFFU 1BSL .BEJTPO /FX :PSL /: $BMM XXX TUVEJPKFXFMFSTMUE DPN

456%*0 +&8&-&34 -5%

JCKONLINE.COM

0XVW KDYH \HDUV· H[SHULHQFH ZRUNLQJ ZLWK Guild customers. An extraordinary opportunity for someone that is highly motivated.

Please contact glenn@joshuaj.com (214)649-9105

Belle Ã&#x2030;toile, award-winning designer brand, is looking for independent sales reps for multiple territories, including W TOLA.

830-367-3368 gemologist@texas-topaz.com

JEWELRY MODELS For solitaire, engagement, wedding sets, anniversary, 3-stone, eternity rings, and pendants Exclusively made in Los Angeles, USA (213) 479-8019 www.JewelryRubberMolds.com

Please email résumés to Bryce at careers@belleetoilejewelry.com.

'XQNLQ·V 'LDPRQGV Naples, FL. Goldsmith/Designer Needed.

High End Jewelry. Top Pay, Great Opportunity, 401k, Paid Vacation.

Contact Stuart- 239-822-1022 or sd@dunkins.net.

SALES ACCOUNT MANAGER WANTED

INVISIBLE EXPERTS! INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR â&#x20AC;¢ SIZING â&#x20AC;¢ REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES â&#x20AC;¢ LASER WELDING

We Have The Answer to Your Problems! www.invisibleexperts.com SIGNATURE JEWELRY INC.

1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026

617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014

Experienced Inside Sales Account Manager (B2B) In NY $$$$$ THE SKY IS THE LIMIT $$$$$ Are you a driven, laser focused and enthusiastic salesperson with extraordinary people and communication skills? If so, then XL Diamonds needs you to help grow our super team of diamond experts! â&#x20AC;¢ Base pay and commission â&#x20AC;¢ â&#x20AC;¢ WV â&#x20AC;¢ Section 125 Plan â&#x20AC;¢ T You will be responsible for building relationships with our new and existing clients by working directly with Jewelers to provide solutions to their loose diamond needs. At XL Diamonds, our primary goal is to H[FHHG DOO RI RXU -HZHOHUV· H[SHFWDWLRQV ZKLOH KHOSLQJ them grow their business.

If interested, please email your resume to hr@xldiamonds.com.

WATCHES & WATCH WORK ACCUTRON REPAIRS 'RQH E\ D &HUWLÃ&#x20AC; HG $FFXWURQ 7HFKQLFLDQ 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices.

Star Findings 84 Bowery, NY, NY 10013 212-941-7655 HUQLH#VWDUÃ&#x20AC; QGLQJV FRP ZZZ VWDUÃ&#x20AC; QGLQJV FRP

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2017

116

THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

BOLD & BEAUTIFUL

CAN THERE BE a more glamorous time for fashion and jewelry than the late ’60s/early ’70s? Fashion was subversive, skintight, and bursting with exotic flourishes like turbans, colorful maquillage, and piles of yellow gold. In this photograph for Vogue in 1969, Marisa Berenson wears a silky blouse by Capucci, dramatic blue Elizabeth Arden eye shadow, and a rust head wrap atop luscious loose curls.

But it is her hardware that demands our undivided attention: iconic gold Bulgari Serpenti rings on both hands, and layers upon layers of gold Bulgari necklaces. The model spent her youth jet-setting around the world, often at the behest of Vogue editor Diana Vreeland. One of Berenson’s favorite memories is hanging out with the Beatles at an ashram in Rishikesh, India.

Little doubt those Eastern locales influenced her style. Reflecting on this particular look, Berenson, now 70, breaks it down simply for JCK: “More is more.” —KRISTIN YOUNG JCKONLINE.COM

GIAN PAOLO BARBIERI/GETTY

Marisa Berenson— dubbed “the girl of the ’70s” by Yves Saint Laurent—proves that yellow gold never goes out of style

From The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology ™

GIA is the globally recognized source of knowledge, standards, education and analysis for diamonds, colored stones and pearls. Contact us today.

GIA.edu

CARLSBAD NEW YORK ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MUMBAI RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO

ADT170015_JCKad_Foremost_v3.indd 1

2/6/17 3:30 PM

ANKE & GUANCHEN HAVE BEEN TOGETHER FOR ONE YEAR. HER DIAMONDS HAVE SPENT TWO BILLION YEARS BENEATH THE EARTHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SURFACE AND A FEW MONTHS ON HER FINGER.