JCK 2017 September/October Issue

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SEPTEMBER /OCTOBER 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

FULLY ENGAGED YO U R C O M P L E T E W E D D I N G J E W E LRY G U I D E , F R O M T R ENDS TO P R I C E P O I N T S TO T H E N E W E S T RIN G S

HOLIDAY WINNERS

W E M A D E A L I S T AND C H E CK E D IT T W ICE: S TO CK U P O N S TA RS, S I G N E TS , A N D M O RE

PEARL TRIP THE MOST LUSCIOUS, LUSTROUS GEMS MAKING A SPLASH THIS SEASON

P: 212.730.1888

JA New York Booth# 1226

info@dabakarov.com

SHOW & TELL JCKJCK SHOW & TELL JCK Vegas 2018...

JCK LasLas Vegas 2018...

Returns its Weekday Pattern & Introduces Returns to itsto Weekday Pattern & Introduces Neighborhoods toShow the Show Floor New New Neighborhoods to the Floor

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Neighborhoods to Explore in 2018: ewNew Neighborhoods to Explore in 2018: Jewelry, Art and Antique Estate Estate Jewelry, Art and Antique JCK Las Vegas and the Palm Beach Show have joined together to launch the Las Vegas JCK Las Vegas and the Palm Beach Show have joined together to launch the Las Vegas Estate Jewelry & Watch Pavilion on the JCK show floor. Poised to showcase a remarkable Estate Jewelry & Watch Pavilion on the JCK show floor. Poised to showcase a remarkable array of antique and estate jewelry and pre-owned watches as well as select contemporary array of antique and estate jewelry and pre-owned watches as well as select contemporary pieces, the Pavilion will present the finest jewelry and watch dealers from around the world, pieces, the Pavilion will present the finest jewelry and watch dealers from around the world, showcasing their one-of-a-kind pieces and offering a momentous shopping experience showcasing their one-of-a-kind pieces and offering a momentous shopping experience to the show. to the show.

JIS Exchange JIS Exchange JIS Exchange will move from the Tropicana to its own section of Mandalay Bay in 2018, JIS Exchange will move from the Tropicana to its own section of Mandalay Bay in 2018, the ultimate source for at-show delivery during Las Vegas Jewelry Week. the ultimate source for at-show delivery during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Notable Neighborhood Expansions to Discover in 2018: Notable Neighborhood Expansions to Discover in 2018: Experience RetailRetail Experience This destination 2017.innovation putting innovation at This destination made its made debut its in debut 2017. in putting at the forefront and featuring suppliers whose products and services the forefront and featuring suppliers whose products and services the retail shopping experience.

2017 exhibitors transform transform the retail shopping experience.

2017 exhibitors included included Yelp, Miicraft 3D Printer, Gem Cam, Trax Sales, Yelp, Miicraft 3D Printer, Gem Cam, Trax Sales, and more.and more.

Jewelers’ Security Alliance Jewelers’ Security Alliance and Jewelers’ Security (JSA) Alliance (JSA) introduced JCK and JCK Jewelers’ Security Alliance introduced a new a new neighborhood year dedicated to retail solutions. security solutions. neighborhood this year this dedicated to retail security This new destination on the JCK show floor featured holistic and This new destination on the JCK show floor featured holistic and tailoredsolution securityproviders solution providers whose products and services tailored security whose products and services are designed to keep jewelr y businesses Par ticipating are designed to keep jewelr y businesses safe. Par safe. ticipating vendors included physical security solutions, IT security solutions, vendors included physical security solutions, IT security solutions, payment payment processing, fraud protection, private security, processing, shipping shipping solutions,solutions, fraud protection, private security, system system integrators, and technology. tracking technology. integrators, RFID and RFID tracking

Design @ LUXURY Design @ LUXURY LUXURY strengthened design a new buying LUXURY strengthened its focus its on focus designonwith the with debutthe of debut a new ofbuying destination on the salon floor, featuring eight exciting brands showcasing a destination on the salon floor, featuring eight exciting brands showcasing a modern and fashion-forward to high-end modern and fashion-forward approach approach to high-end jewelry. jewelry.

Alongside Returning Favorites: Alongside Returning Favorites: DESIGN CENTER DESIGN CENTER Curated destination of

THE BRIDGE THE BRIDGE Sizable global brands Curated destination of DESIGN @ LUXURY LUXURY WATCH one-of-a-kind designs from Sizable global brands featuring on trend DESIGN @ LUXURY LUXURY WATCH one-of-a-kind designsannually from vetted Design-focused featuring oncostume/bridge trend Elite timepieces jewelry Design-focused annually vetted Elite timepieces up-and-coming and costume/bridge jewelry area of LUXURY and watch brands at accessible up-and-coming and area of LUXURY veteran artists and watch brands at accessible price points veteran artists JEWELERS SECURITY PLUMB CLUB price points JEWELERS SECURITY PASSPORT PLUMB CLUB ALLIANCE (JSA) CLOCKWORK Leading manufacturers PASSPORT ALLIANCE (JSA) Jewelry collections Holistic & tailored security CLOCKWORK Fashionable Leading manufacturers spanning the jewelry, Jewelry collections Holistic & tailoredsolution security providers that keep from around Fashionable timepieces and spanning the jewelry, diamond, and watch solution providers thatjewelry keep businesses from around the globe timepieces andcomponents diamond, and watchindustries jewelry businessessafeprice points the globe components industries SWISS WATCH safeprice points ESSENTIALS FIRST LOOK SWISS WATCH CURRENTS Collection of premier ESSENTIALS Equipment, supplies, FIRST LOOK CURRENTS Finished jewelry Finished jewelry Collection of premier Swiss Watch brands Equipment, supplies, and services to Finished jewelrycelebrating Finished jewelry celebrating Swiss Watch brands and invited retailers and servicesenhance to in-store celebrating individual style celebrating individual style and invited retailers in private suites enhance in-storecapabilities individual style individual style in private suites RETAIL EXPERIENCE capabilities PRESTIGE STERLING PLAZA RETAIL EXPERIENCE BRIDAL Suppliers whose products PRESTIGE Stunning selection of STERLING PLAZA Eclectic sterling silver BRIDALElegant engagement Suppliers whoseand products services transform Stunning selection piecesoffrom the exclusive Eclectic sterling silver and fashion jewelry Elegant engagement and services the transform sets, wedding bands, retail shopping experipieces from the exclusive Prestige group jewelry and fashion accessories sets, wedding bands, the retail shopping experi-ence and semi-mounts Prestige group of designers accessories and semi-mounts ence LUXURY of designers VICENZAORO TECH LUXURY The industry’s most DIAMOND PLAZA VICENZAORO TECH Cutting-edge Fiera di Vicenza DIAMOND PLAZA The industry’s accomplished most Diamonds in every talent Fiera di Vicenza Cutting-edge presents over 130 technology offerings Diamonds in every accomplished talentand design size, shape, cut, presents over 130 technology offerings ‘Made in Italy’ bring the future to size, shape, cut, and color and design collections ‘Made in Italy’ collections bring the future to your store collections and color collections your store HONG KONG THE GALLERY AGTA GEMFAIR™ INDIA HONG KONG Explore the Hong THE GALLERY Top media outlets, AGTA GEMFAIR™ Vast array of colored INDIA A collection of Explore the Kong Hongjewelry market Top media outlets, services, and industry Vast array of colored gemstones, cultured A collection ofIndian designs Kong jewelry market organized by services, and industry associations gemstones, cultured pearls, and jewelry Indian designs organized by HKJMA associations pearls, and jewelry HKJMA

L E A R N M O R E A B O U T J C K L A S V E G A S : J C KO N L I N E . C O M / L A S V E G A S L E A R N M O R E A B O U T J C K L A S V E G A S : J C KO N L I N E . C O M / L A S V E G A S FOLLOW @JCKEVENTS FOLLOW @JCKEVENTS

jckinsider.com @jckevents #JCKLasvegas jckinsider.com @jckevents #JCKLasvegas

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CONTENTS

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

You’ll be dressed to impress with these baroque beauties, South Sea stars, Tahitian wonders, and mother-of-pearl stunners.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENNETH WILLARDT

FEATURES 74

HAUTE FOR THE HOLIDAYS When it comes to stocking your shelves for the most wonderful (and busiest) time of the year, think classics—chunky colored tennis bracelets, front-facing hoops, and more—with a twist.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS

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TRICKS & BRICKS

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BY EMILI VESILIND

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SCHOOL TIES Jewelry retailers are teaming up with colleges to drive both revenue and visibility.

BY AMANDA BALTAZAR

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SPECIAL REPORT: WEDDINGS

86 SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

How to make your store an attractive, inviting, and enjoyable place to shop.

90

RING THEORY

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From split-shank styles to pearshape stones, from brilliant white to organic colored diamonds, we’ve got everything a modern bride (and rose gold–loving groom) could possibly want.

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FACTS OF LOVE The results of The Knot’s 2017 Jewelry & Engagement Study.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KENNETH WILLARDT; COLLEGE RING: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; JOHN HARDY HOUSTON STORE: FRANK OUDEMAN. SANDRO DAY TO NIGHT BAROQUE FRESHWATER PEARL EARRINGS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD, $4,500, BAKER & BLACK, INFO@BAKERANDBLACK.COM, BAKERANDBLACK.COM; 36-INCH CHAIN-WRAPPED BAROQUE PEARL NECKLACE IN 18K WHITE, YELLOW, AND ROSE GOLD, $16,100, JORDAN ALEXANDER, 646-745-6831, JORDANALEXANDER.COM; CRESCENDO COLLECTION PLATINUM RING WITH 4.01 CT. HEART-SHAPE CENTER DIAMOND AND 1.02 CTS. T.W. PAVÉ DIAMONDS, $172,355, HARRY KOTLAR, 213-626-0428, HARRYKOTLAR.COM

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PEARLS’ NIGHT OUT

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CONTENTS

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57

DEPARTMENTS

18 20 22 28 32 35 42 44 49

52 54 57 58 64

JEWEL BOX 5 things rocking the industry

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER JCKONLINE SOCIAL DIARY NEWS GEMS

108

Signet gets a new CEO. GEM PRICING REPORT

THE CALENDAR Industry shows, Sept. 22–Nov. 20, 2017

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER Debbie Klein of Art + Soul in Boulder, Colo.

RETAIL THERAPY Shoppers’ best buys at JCK Las Vegas STORE WE ADORE Jaimie Geller Jewelry in Pacific Palisades, Calif.

THE LOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE Kirsty Stone of Retrouvaí taps into her good karma.

JCK ASKS...

Theresa Harper Bruno

110 107 108 110 113

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THE VAULT GOLD WATCHES

SHOW BIZ Previewing October’s JIS Miami show. Plus: Wrapping July’s IIJS in Mumbai.

TOOL TIME

How to build up your brand on social media. Plus: ImpressArt stamps and more.

132 THE WAY WE WORE Princess Diana rules in a pearl-adorned tiara.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

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PORTRAITS FROM TOP: KIM HUGGINS PHOTOGRAPHY/CYNTHIA CRUZ; PHOTOGRAPH BY NICOLE LAMOTTE. LOVEBIRDS NATURAL AND COMPOSITE CORAL, BONE, AGATE, CHALCEDONY, AND PEARL EARRINGS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD VERMEIL, $1,850, OF RARE ORIGIN, 212-717-9368, OFRAREORIGIN.COM

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JCKONLINE.COM

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COVER LOOK

JCKONLINE.COM

Freshwater pearl Point earrings with amethyst and tanzanite in 14k white gold; $2,862; little h; 310-4748788; littleh jewelry.com

Long baroque Australian South Sea pearl strand with sapphire, garnet, and tourmaline in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Margot McKinney; 61-73-257-7787; margotmckinney.com

PEARL TRIP Clean white strands and drop earrings really pop when encrusted with rich colored stones such as sapphire, tourmaline, and tanzanite. How’s that for trippy?

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENNETH WILLARDT Styling: SOLANGE FRANKLIN/THE WALL GROUP Hair: DJ QUINTERO/STATEMENT ARTISTS Makeup: JUSTINE PURDUE/STREETERS USING NARS COSMETICS Manicurist: RACHEL SHIM/DERMELECT/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO Retouching: COLOR BY CLINICSTUDIO.COM Model: AMANDA WELLSH/IMG SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

eight and a half / www.henrich-denzel.com 2017 WINNER

HENRICH & DENZEL - A MEMBER OF GERMAN FINEST dŚĞ ŝŶĚŝǀŝĚƵĂůŝƚLJ ŽĨ Į ǀĞ ůĞĂĚŝŶŐ 'ĞƌŵĂŶ ŵĂŶƵĨĂĐƚƵƌĞƌƐ ƵŶŝƚĞƐ ƵŶĚĞƌ ŽŶĞ ŵŝƐƐŝŽŶ5 dŚĞ ĞŵďŽĚŝŵĞŶƚ ŽĨ 7DĂĚĞ ŝŶ 'ĞƌŵĂŶLJ8 ŝŶ ƋƵĂůŝƚLJ ĂŶĚ ĚĞƐŝŐŶ: 'ĞƌŵĂŶ &ŝŶĞƐƚ ƐĞƚƐ ƚƌĞŶĚƐ ĂŶĚ ƐƚĂŶĚĂƌĚƐ Ăƚ ƚŚĞ ŚŝŐŚĞƐƚ ůĞǀĞů ʹ Ă ƐLJŵďŽů ŽĨ 'ĞƌŵĂŶ ũĞǁĞůƌLJ ĐƵůƚƵƌĞ:

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SCHAFFRATH - A MEMBER OF GERMAN FINEST dŚĞ ŝŶĚŝǀŝĚƵĂůŝƚLJ ŽĨ Į ǀĞ ůĞĂĚŝŶŐ 'ĞƌŵĂŶ ŵĂŶƵĨĂĐƚƵƌĞƌƐ ƵŶŝƚĞƐ ƵŶĚĞƌ ŽŶĞ ŵŝƐƐŝŽŶ5 dŚĞ ĞŵďŽĚŝŵĞŶƚ ŽĨ 7DĂĚĞ ŝŶ 'ĞƌŵĂŶLJ8 ŝŶ ƋƵĂůŝƚLJ ĂŶĚ ĚĞƐŝŐŶ: 'ĞƌŵĂŶ &ŝŶĞƐƚ ƐĞƚƐ ƚƌĞŶĚƐ ĂŶĚ ƐƚĂŶĚĂƌĚƐ Ăƚ ƚŚĞ ŚŝŐŚĞƐƚ ůĞǀĞů ʹ Ă ƐLJŵďŽů ŽĨ 'ĞƌŵĂŶ ũĞǁĞůƌLJ ĐƵůƚƵƌĞ:

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

JEWEL BOX

Dior’s Bosquet de l’Encelade bracelet in 18k gold with white and yellow diamonds, rock crystal, black opal, emeralds, spessartite and tsavorite garnets, sapphires, pink spinels, yellow sapphires, red spinels, paraiba tourmalines, and turquoise

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The annual Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender, a showcase of the rarest gems discovered at the Argyle mine in Australia, is something of a misnomer.

Of the 58 diamonds that Rio Tinto presented at an exclusive event in New York City in late July, there were four fancy reds, four purplish reds, two violets, and one blue. Among them, the 2.11 ct. fancy red VS2 diamond dubbed the Argyle Everglow (below, center) emerged the hero. In the 33-year history of the tender, fewer than 20 cts. of fancy red diamonds have sold, making the Everglow, according to Argyle Pink Diamonds manager Josephine Johnson, “one of the most collectible reds ever.”

DIAMONDS

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JEWELS The haute couture presentations that take place in Paris in early July draw the wealthiest buyers in the world. About 15 years ago, the jewelry crowd moved in and began to capitalize on the influx. This year, with at least 20 haute joaillerie presentations— both from Place Vendôme veterans such as Boucheron, Chanel, and Dior and from newcomers including Nirav Modi, Ana Khouri, and Repossi—the City of Light truly lived up to its name, as one lavish display of jewels outshone the next. “It’s so beyond,” says Marion Fasel, founder and creative director of the jewelry website The Adventurine.

“If you have to ask the price, you can’t afford it.”

JCKONLINE.COM

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WATCHES

For 11 days in July, the venerable Geneva-based watchmaker Patek Philippe opened a pop-up museum at Cipriani 42nd Street in midtown Manhattan. More than 27,000 people flocked to the “Art of Watches Grand Exhibition New York” to see hundreds of historical timepieces—including a prototype of the Caliber 89 pocket watch and a quartz desk clock made for John F. Kennedy—as well as a raft of special-edition and rare, handcrafted watches created for the U.S. market.

A highlight was Ref. 5531R, a world time minute repeater with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the New York City skyline (pictured). “Every once in a while, you have to show people it’s not some stuffy old world of Swiss watchmaking,” Patek Philippe U.S. president Larry Pettinelli tells JCK. “It’s wearable art.”

Fashion icon and HSN jewelry designer Iris Apfel

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RETAILERS Two long-standing rivals—QVC and HSN—are joining forces. Liberty Interactive, the parent company of QVC, has entered into an agreement to buy fellow couch-potato favorite HSN Inc. for $2.1 billion in stock. And while jewelry is no longer the backbone of the channels’ business—it now represents 9 percent of QVC’s sales and 7.9 percent of HSN’s—both remain important to the industry, even if their business model is, like the rest of the retail world, seemingly under siege by Amazon and other e-players. “We are not happy with [our] performance,” said Rod Little, HSN chief financial officer, on a conference call announcing the deal. “It’s part of why we are here today, I guess.”

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SHOWS Its location at Manhattan’s InterContinental New York Barclay wasn’t the only new thing about this year’s LUXURY Privé. After spending several years at the Waldorf Astoria next door, the intimate show—held July 23–25, in step with the city’s jewelry market week—moved into its airy new space and promptly welcomed a handful of designers fresh to the national trade show scene, including Los Angeles’ Lost Bird Designs, Julie Lamb NY, and Clare Ullman Design. “I think I’ve emerged now,” Lost Bird’s Pam Harris quipped on Instagram, after snapping a photo of her booth. We couldn’t have said it better ourselves.

Earrings in 14k gold with turquoise, Ethiopian opal, and diamonds; $960 (sold singly); Lost Bird Designs; pam@ lostbirddesigns.com; lostbirddesigns.com

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

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FROM THE EDITOR

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Titan’s choker in sterling silver with genuine freshwater pearls; $1,625; Mariella Pilato; hello@ mariellapilato.com; mariellapilato.com

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

I CAN VOUCH for that. Pearls were my first love (in the jewelry business, that is).

At the start of the millennium, I took a job writing about them for a gem and jewelry trade website, even though I was so new to the industry I had no idea what a cultured pearl was. My first assignment brought me to a pearl farm in the Arafura Sea, off the northern coast of Australia, where I watched two blond, sunburned farmworkers lift a line of giant Pinctada maxima oysters from the water and explain to me how they cultured the most valuable pearls in the world. From that point on, I was hopelessly under their spell.

That explains why I’m so proud of the striking image that graces our cover and the luscious photo feature that begins on page 68 (“Pearls’ Night Out”). Paired with modern combinations of gems, chains, and metal finishes, pearls are the perfect accessory for cool girls—and the retailers looking to attract them.

I have no qualms proclaiming pearls a sure thing this holiday season, but if you’re in need of more ideas about what to stock for the fourth quarter, turn to page 74 for our seasonal trend guide (“Haute for the Holidays”), beautifully curated by jewelry director Randi Molofsky.

By now, you’re probably familiar with the idea of curation—it’s one of those buzzwords

meant to suggest that what you’re reading or seeing has been carefully chosen by someone with a discerning eye. As a retailer, it’s imperative that you approach your business as a curator—of both products and people.

As senior editor Emili Vesilind discovers in her incisive retail feature “Tricks & Bricks” (page 82), letting go of salespeople who have lost their drive to sell is critical to your store’s future survival. In the words of Retail Doctor Bob Phibbs: “If your salespeople are talking about Game of Thrones behind the counter all day and not viewing the next person who walks in as a chance to make another great sale, you’re in trouble.”

We conclude this fall-forward issue with a a wedding-themed special report. As always, we’re featuring highlights from The Knot’s 2017 Jewelry & Engagement Study (“Facts of Love,” page 96), including dozens of tantalizing takeaways about how couples are researching retailers, what they’re spending on rings, and the styles, issues, and price points that are swaying them at the counter (or on the screen, as the case may be!).

But first, in the band-packed “Ring Theory” (page 90), we bring you engagement rings and men’s bands sure to resonate with brides and grooms in search of styles at once classic and contemporary. They’re not pearls, but they’ll do!

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

irls love pearls.

S I G N AT U R E C O L L E C T I O N

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SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 1

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Pendant with 9.84 ct. black opal and 1.16 cts. t.w. diamonds in 24k gold with silver and green patina; $48,000; Victor Velyan; 213-955-5950; victorvelyan.com Sunlight Journey Sand Waves cuff watch in 18k rose gold with white mother-of-pearl dial, 10.45 ct. white opal, and 6.95 cts. t.w. brilliant-cut diamonds; price on request; Piaget; 877-8-PIAGET; piaget.com

OPAL DREAM

Platinum ring with water opal, emeralds, and diamonds; $56,000; Oscar Heyman; 800-642-1912; oscarheyman.com

What JCK magazine’s Victoria Gomelsky is loving this month

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Indorussian earrings in 18k gold–plated silver with 12.4 cts. t.w. opals and 0.3 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds; $4,000; Sanjay Kasliwal; 212-988-1511; sanjaykasliwal.com

“Opal is the Sybil of the gem world. I’m obsessed with its multiple personalities!”

—Victoria Gomelsky, JCK editor-in-chief

JCKONLINE.COM

PORTRAIT: NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS

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Flower earrings with Mexican fire and Ethiopian opals in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Nina Runsdorf; 212-3821243; nsrjewelry.com

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

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As Sinatra sang: “Autumn in New York, why does it seem so inviting?”

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

I’M WRITING THIS in August but I am already looking forward to the change of seasons.

The summer went by in a hot blur, yet there were definite highlights. First up was the all-new LUXURY Privé show in New York City, held in July in its beautiful new location, the InterContinental New York Barclay. The show hit just the right note: It was upscale but approachable, busy but not overcrowded.

It was an honor to host a panel of retailers during the show to discuss hot topics in the jewelry industry. The panelists—Shelia Bayes of Shelia Bayes Fine Jewelers in Lexington, Ky.; Trish Roberson of Roberson’s Fine Jewelry in Little Rock, Ark.; and Scott Sedlacek of Reeds Jewelers in Wilmington, N.C.—were upbeat, inspirational, and totally on point, despite all the challenges facing our industry and retail in general. The key to their success?

I’ve got three words for you: experiential, experiential, experiential !

This year’s Women’s Jewelry Association Awards for Excellence gala, held again in its traditional Pier 60 location in Manhattan, was fantastic. There were so many terrific honorees and speeches (including a particularly great speech by Lifetime Achievement Award winner Cecilia Gardner). The highlight for me, however, was seeing Peggy Jo Donahue—former

editor-in-chief of JCK, among many other accomplishments—receive the first-ever Cindy Edelstein Mentorship Award, given to someone in the industry “who exhibits the qualities that Cindy possessed: generosity of time and talent for the benefit of others without the expectation of personal or financial gain.” Peggy Jo, they could not have picked a more appropriate person in our industry for this award!

The next night was the American Gem Society Circle of Distinction Awards at the Plaza.

Congrats to the GIA’s Dr. James Shigley on his Lifetime Achievement Award and Gumuchian’s Myriam Gumuchian and Fred Meyer Jewelers’ Peter Engel on their Triple Zero Awards.

September and October will bring some annual trips I look forward to, including the JIS Miami show in October and my traditional swing through Southern California for the GIA Career Fair and 24 Karat Club of Southern California Dinner Dance. I’m looking forward to seeing so many friends in both locations.

Speaking of friends, I share a wonderful Facebook relationship with so many of you. As many of you know, I lost both my mom and dad this year, and your outpouring of sympathy and support on Facebook was phenomenal. I’m truly blessed to be in an industry that fosters such genuine friendships. Many thanks.

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; NEW YORK: RABBIT75_IST/GETTY

elcome, autumn!

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 148 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com U.S. ADVERTISING SALES

EDITORIAL

CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com Senior Editor / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com

FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, AUBRY D’ARMINIO, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG

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Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK JCK Las Vegas Luxury Privé NY Select Shows Centurion South Beach Celebrating 35 Years

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VP, Business Development MATT CHERVIN

Marketing Director / ALEXIS AINSCOUGH Account Director / HEATHER BOHL Art Director / ANDY ROSS Senior Designer / ROMAN KING One World Trade Center, Floor 28 New York, NY 10007 For content marketing inquiries, please call 212-286-7330 advancelocal.net HEADLINE STUDIO IS A DIVISION OF ADVANCE LOCAL

Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, LUXURY, JIS) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305 cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com

ISRAEL ITZCHAK ARIKHA P.O. Box 3237, Ramat Gan 52131, Israel 972-3-751-2165/6, fax 972-3-575-2201 galisaac@zahav.net.il THAILAND LAKKANA KONGCHUEN Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7299, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell 66-8-9452-4447 lakkana.kong@reedtradex.co.th

CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Industry Vice President KATIE DOMINESEY 203-840-5470 kdominesey@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive ALEXANDRA WURSTER International Companies and Pavilions, Essentials, Tech, Retail Experience, JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, VicenzaOro Italian Club 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive VICKY PANG The Bridge (companies A–O) 203-840-5960 vpang@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Diamond Plaza 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Lifestyle, The Bridge (companies P–Z), JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive ANA CROSBY Bridal, Sterling Plaza, Plumb Club, Currents, First Look (companies A–M), The Gallery (Bayside), AGTA 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com

Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive DANA KARP First Look (companies N–Z), JCK magazine 203-840-5687 dkarp@reedjewelrygroup.com

L U X U R Y & S W I S S WAT C H E V E N T S Industry Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET LUXURY & LUXURY Privé (companies A–O) 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS LUXURY & LUXURY Privé (companies P–Z) Swiss Watch, LUXURY Watch 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager HANNAH CONNORTON 203-840-5492 hconnorton@reedjewelrygroup.com

Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

“I’m Kent Wood, the owner of Fremeau Jewelers, a business that’s been on Church Street in Burlington, Vermont for 177 years. We are members the American Society and we’ve been members of “I’m Kent of Wood, the ownerGem of Fremeau Jewelers, a business that’s IJO and JA in the past.

After last Christmas, we decided it was time to been on Church Street in Burlington, Vermont for 177 years. We are close the business.

We happened to be down in DC at the time and members of the American Gem Society and we’ve been members of a friend running a sale with Wilkerson so I called IJO and of JAmine in thewas past.

After last Christmas, we decided it was him timeup to and asked how it was going.

He said he was beating expectations and close the business. We happened to be down in DC at the time and so I picked up the phone andacalled Wilkerson andso that’s how him we got a friend of mine was running sale with Wilkerson I called up started. and asked how it was going. He said he was beating expectations and so I picked up the phone and called Wilkerson and that’s how we got The way Wilkerson handles the advertising and promotion is really started. quite amazing. I would have never marketed the way they did for the sale sure myhandles numbersthe would have been very small.

The and way I’m Wilkerson advertising andvery, promotion is really quite amazing. I would have never marketed the way they did for the The theymy had was just remarkable.

Wevery, keptvery exceeding sale success and I’m sure numbers would have been small. the goals and actually ended up almost doubling them. Their marketing ideas were just completely of remarkable. the box.

The success they had wasout just We kept exceeding the

“If someone were thinking about retiring and how to best liquidate their inventory “If were thinking about retiring andsomeone convert it to cash, I would strongly and how to best theirWilkerson.” inventory recommend that liquidate they contact and convert it to cash, I would strongly recommend that they contact Wilkerson.”

Kent Wood Fremeau Jewelers Kent Wood Burlington, VT Fremeau Jewelers Burlington, VT

goals and actually ended up almost doubling them. Their marketing As farwere as our consultants, ideas juston-site completely out of thethey box.came in and were fantastic.

They kept us informed and they had great ideas for advertising and suggestions where consultants, to best spendthey our came money.in and were fantastic.

As far as ourforon-site They kept us informed and they had great ideas for advertising and If someone were thinking about retiring how to best liquidate their suggestions for where to best spend ourand money. inventory and convert it to cash, I would strongly recommend that they contact Wilkerson.

All they do atretiring Wilkerson is jewelry If someone were thinking about and how to bestretirement liquidate type their sales.

They have a plan and, by golly, it works!” inventory and convert it to cash, I would strongly recommend that they contact Wilkerson. All they do at Wilkerson is jewelry retirement type sales. They have a plan and, by golly, it works!”

Kent Wood Kent Wood

Contact us today for a free consultation!

Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999.

Contact usOrtoday for a free consultation! visit us at wilkersons.com.

Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999.

Or visit us at wilkersons.com.

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

ONLINE

“The fine jewelry business is the ‘love business.’… Anything we can do to turn up the love meter in this world will go a long way toward stopping all the hate.”

—JCKonline reader Jon Parker on “Office Politics”

PRIVÉ PLEASE

WISH CRAFT Longtime jewelry journalist Marion Fasel of The Adventurine gives us a sneak peek at her sparkly holiday wish list—“earrings, earrings, earrings”: “I want more studs, hoops of all sizes, and long pendant earrings,” she declares.

“I also want to get another piercing.” Visit jckinsider.com for Fasel’s full interview.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

If you couldn’t make it to LUXURY Privé in late July, or if you just want to relive the highlights, we’ve got the scoop—including loads of pics from all your favorite exhibitors like Effy (pictured, top) and GuitaM (above). Check out jckinsider.com for the latest show buzz.

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.

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CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

ONLINE

@JCKMagazine JCKmagazine @jckmagazine @jckmagazine

INSTAGEM

FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH Turkish designer Sevan Biçakçi (@sevanbicakcijewellery) marks nearly all of his photos with the hashtag #inversestonecarving, emphasizing the pioneering technique and artistry behind his pieces.

His Instagram is a veritable museum of hand-carved, hand-painted three-dimensional masterworks.

Can you spot the tiny school of multicolored fish swimming inside the center stone?

The Holy Abundance ring reveals tulips and pomegranates beneath a smoky quartz.

This domed ring pays homage to the designer’s hometown, Istanbul.

Padlocks (like this micromosaic style) have become one of Biçakçi’s signature motifs.

Istanbul appears again in these intricate cufflinks—along with a dagger (another signature).

The peacock pops up frequently in the artist’s pieces; he calls it a “unifying symbol of magic.”

WANT MORE JCK? JCK NEWS DAILY BRINGS THE TOP STORIES TO YOUR INBOX EVERY MONDAY–SATURDAY. GO TO jckonline.com/newsletters/subscribe.

JCKONLINE.COM

SOCIAL DIARY

GALAS

32

1

AWARDS CENTRAL

Greenland Ruby’s Hayley Henning and husband Erik Jens of ABN AMRO dance the night away at the AGS gala.

In back-to-back galas in New York City in late July, the Women’s Jewelry Association and the American Gem Society honored the industry’s finest

Designer and artist Reena Ahluwalia with NPD Group’s Rob Harvath and Desiree Hanson at the AGS gala

3

Reed Jewelry Group’s Hannah Connorton and Katie Dominesey pucker up for GIA’s Craig Danforth at AGS.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

Designer Wendy Brandes with her WJA Award for Excellence in design

6

2

7

The Kingswood Co.’s Kristie Nicolosi, WJA’s Brandee Dallow and Lisa Slovis Mandel, GIA’s Sue Elliott, Ben Bridge Jeweler’s Lisa Bridge, and JBT’s Brenda Gamba

8 5

4

Ben Kaiser Award winner Michael Pollak, CEO of Hyde Park Jewelers (c.), with his family at the WJA gala

AGS board of directors president Scott Berg with his wife, Leslie

AGS Triple Zero Award winner Myriam Gumuchian with her daughter, Romy Schreiber

Former JCK editorin-chief Peggy Jo Donahue accepts the WJA’s first Cindy Edelstein Mentorship Award.

9

JCKONLINE.COM

ADV ERT I S EME N T

WHY ARE JEWELRY STORES CLOSING? 1,629 jewelry stores closed in 2016—an increase of 43% from the previous year.

What is changing in the jewelry market, and how can retailers keep up & stay open?

1. CHANGING CUSTOMERS. With $200 billion in annual buying power, the 80 million American millennials are key influencers with their peers as well as older generations. Many industries struggle to effectively advertise to millennials, and it’s time for jewelry retailers to change it up. The way consumers shop has changed across all generations, and even brick and mortar stores need to realize the power of brand loyalty. Brand loyalty is not what it used to be—consumers are able to research every facet of your store before they ever walk through the door. Your stores must be staffed and stocked appropriately at all times. All it takes is one negative online review for millennials to seek out the next jewelry retailer down the street.

2. EMPLOYEE TREATMENT. As millennials require a change in advertising strategies, they are also looking for a different work environment. To keep the best salespeople, managers need to be effective and personable and provide clear and accurate measurements of personal sales performance. With encouragement

and clear expectations on sales goals and projections, employee turnover remains low, saving retailers time and money on costly hiring and training.

3. LEAN INTO TECH. Keeping a business afloat demands near constant supervision on all aspects of a business, including in-store sales, inventory, employee schedule optimization, and customer habits. Retailers should be tracking not only what is being bought but also what’s next—when might this customer return? If an engagement ring was purchased, will the happy couple be back for wedding bands? Almost half (40%) of customers do not make a purchase in the same year they first begin to shop. Of those who make a satisfactory purchase, 75% do not return for their next purchase. Jewelry stores must strengthen their customer relationships through personal and organic interactions to retain those flighty consumers. Automated systems can track customer needs and allow managers to create personalized sales campaigns to turn one-time customers into brand loyalists.

TraxSALES Visual Proof Customer Traffic Counters and Sales Force Reporting Software synchronizes with The Edge POS for jewelers and guarantees sales improvement of 15% or more or your money back.

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35

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS Signet style: a diamond solitaire surrounded by stacking bands

SIGNET SWITCH The retailer hires its first-ever female CEO

BY ROB BATES

T

O REVERSE ITS declining fortunes, Signet Jewelers has turned to board member Virginia “Gina” Drosos.

She is replacing embattled mainstay Mark Light as company head.

Drosos is Signet’s first female CEO and its third CEO since longtime head Terry Burman left in 2011.

Drosos has a wide-ranging background, including holding a position on Signet’s board since 2012. She most recently served as president and CEO of Assurex Health, where in 2016 she oversaw the sale of the biotech firm. Before that, she served as president of global beauty care for Procter & Gamble, where she led a $6 billion business that included more than 20 brands.

Light was with the company for nearly 35 years.

A statement said he is stepping down for health reasons, which the company calls “serious, but not life-threatening.” Those health issues apparently stopped Light from attending this year’s JCK Las Vegas JCKONLINE.COM

Signet board member–turned–CEO Virginia Drosos

NEWS GEMS

THE SCOOP

36

Above: Fashion rings from the Layerings collection; below: diamond stacking bands

Morganite jewels from Jared’s Earthly Treasures Smithsonian line

JEWELRY LIGHTING SPECIALISTS

show. Light’s three-and-ahalf-year tenure as CEO proved surprisingly turbulent, marked by controversies over credit, stone switching, and sexual harassment. In the latest quarter, Signet’s comp sales fell 11.5 percent.

Light is one of a number of Signet company veterans who have stepped down in the last year. Chief operating officer Ed Hrabak and chief merchandising officer Stuart Lee have also left. Hrabak’s replacement, Bryan Morgan, resigned in June due to unspecified “violations of company policy.”

George Murray, Signet’s chief retail insights and

strategy officer, is considered the only old-timer left in Signet’s C-suite.

Drosos’ elevation has been seen as a reflection of the increasing role the company’s board has been playing in Signet’s day-to-day operations, a change that some detractors perceive as the directors “managing from the boardroom.”

In March, company chairman Todd Stitzer appeared on the Signet conference call to tell analysts: “The board and I have become much more actively involved with the business and will continue this enhanced level of involvement.”

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NEWS GEMS

THE SCOOP

What’s Clicking on JCKonline

The top stories for July. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline. com/newsletters/subscribe.

1 2 3 4 5

The New Moissanite Has a Detector Problem: About half of the new Forever One product can’t be spotted by standard moissanite detectors.

Brilliant Earth Sues Online Critic: The e-tailer targets Jacob Avital, who released a YouTube video questioning the company’s sourcing.

Signet CEO Switch: The Board Takes Control: News director Rob Bates analyzes the latest change at the top of the industry’s biggest name.

Bank Seizes Assets of Exelco, Report Says: KBC got a court to seize assets of the former Antwerp sightholder. (Exelco later got them back.)

Tiffany Really, Really Wants to Be Cool: Tiffany & Co.’s new CEO, Alessandro Bogliolo, has the kind of varied résumé designed to drag the jeweler into the modern age.

“To the men in the audience who are in leadership positions: You have a choice.

You can choose to put a woman in the room.

I urge you to make that choice.”

—Former Jewelers Vigilance Committee president and CEO Cecilia Gardner, accepting her Lifetime Achievement Award from the Women’s Jewelry Association

Launch a movement We have it all. From fashion-forward to classic.

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72 PERCENT

U.S. consumers who said the ability to “touch, feel, and try” products is a main reason they still shop in brick-and-mortar stores, according to a study

by Mood Media

800.622.0960 | royalchain.com JCKONLINE.COM

Visit us at the IJO, RJO, Leading Jewelers, Atlanta and JANY shows.

NEWS GEMS

38

Q&A

“Clothing falls apart. Furniture will burn. Glass will break.

Jewelry endures.”

—Alan Revere

3 Questions for...

ALAN REVERE Why did you decide to retire now?

Two reasons. I just turned 70. I had a retrospective of my work about three months ago. And the [school’s] lease is coming up for renewal, so I wanted to make it available to someone who wants the business.

Has modern technology changed how you teach?

I like to say that anyone can sit at a computer and press a few buttons, but the jewelry comes out not quite lifelike.

There is a vitality that is missing when people design SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

through the CAD/CAM process. I have done a little bit of it; it doesn’t interest me at all.

People who want to make jewelry through CAD really should be learning jewelry by hand first. And then, if they want to, they can go with CAD. But you really need to know how it works, what the parameters are.

Top: Alan Revere at his bench; above: with student Devon Fuller

REVERE: DAVID MAGNUSSON; REVERE AND FULLER: CHRISTINE DHEIN

IN JULY, ALAN Revere, founder of the San Francisco– based Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts, announced that he is retiring and selling his famed jewelry-making school.

Here, he talks to JCK about how teaching jewelry-making has changed over the years, why he’s not interested in CAD/CAM, and why creating jewelry is different from creating just about anything else. —RB

Why do you think people still want to make jewelry?

Jewelry is something real. It’s not just a slash on a keyboard.

It is something that will last thousands of years. You don’t need a big factory. You don’t need a lot of technology.

You don’t need a lot of workers. But you can sit down at a bench and create [something] precious, something that will outlive you.

It’s not like a drawing. People throw away paper.

Clothing falls apart. Furniture will burn. Glass will break.

A piece of jewelry endures. The materials are resistant to the environment. That’s why they’re called noble metals.

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

COMPANIES DGSE Companies announced it

has generated a nonbinding letter of intent to buy National Pawn, a 27-store pawnshop chain.

board. Graf is the chief financial officer of Discover Financial Services.

He replaces Dale W. Hilpert, who is retiring for personal reasons.

Movado Group has acquired JLB Brands, owner of the Olivia Burton brand, for £60 million

(approximately $77.5 million).

This purchase brings the watch company into the fashion jewelry category for the first time.

COMINGS AND GOINGS

Andrey Polyakov Andrey Polyakov has resigned as president of the World Diamond Council, which represents the industry in front of the Kimberley Process.

This follows his resignation from Russian diamond miner Alrosa. He will be replaced by Stephane Fischler.

Alessandro Bogliolo Tiffany & Co. has chosen as its new CEO Alessandro Bogliolo. He formerly served as the CEO of fashion brand Diesel as well as chief operating officer of Bulgari. He replaces Michael Kowalski, who was serving as interim CEO and remains chairman.

Former Tourneau executive vice president Andrew Block has been appointed president and partner of TrueFacet, the online marketplace for pre-owned watches and jewelry. In addition, Laurie Chan has joined the company as vice president of marketing.

Jewelers of America has named John Henne, president of Henne Jewelers

in Pittsburgh, its new chairman. He succeeds Ryan Berg, market president of Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry.

Signet Jewelers has appointed credit and financial veteran R. Mark Graf

as an independent director to its

Lumondi, the Swiss watch company that oversees the Luminox and Mondaine brands, has named Marc Bernhardt its new North American CEO. Bernhardt previously served as managing director, North America, of watch brand IWC.

Make Waves Want to start a virtual tsunami in sales? Intuitions delivers.

Made of stainless steel and featuring a single diamond and message on every piece, its appeal ranges from baby boomers to millennials. It’s available in cuff and adjustable

Arthur Hewett Arthur Hewett, executive head of human resources at De Beers, is retiring after 25 years with the company.

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J.C. Penney has hired Jeffrey Davis, most recently the chief financial officer for Darden Restaurants, to be its executive vice president and CFO. He succeeds Andrew Drexler, who had been serving as the department store

800.622.0960 | royalchain.com JCKONLINE.COM

Visit us at the IJO, RJO, Leading Jewelers, Atlanta and JANY shows.

T R APPE D B Y I N D U S TRY R E G U L ATI O N S & C O M P L IA N CE ?

WE ’ L L H EL P YO U B R EA K TH ROU GH .

Non-compliance with regulations can catch a company completely off guard. Being reactive is costly – both ¿QDQFLDOO\ DQG WR \RXU UHSXWDWLRQ -9& PHPEHUVKLS allows you to be proactive. Our staff attorneys are experts in jewelry industry regulations and compliance and are ready to assist you or your internal legal staff at any time.

BECOME A MEMBER OF JVC. To join, call 212.997.2002 or visit jvclegal.org.

NEWS GEMS

I&P

Kenneth Jay Lane glass and enamel alligator brooch; $225; The RealReal

Georges Kern has been appointed CEO of Swiss watch brand Breitling. He

was previously head of watchmaking, marketing and digital for Richemont.

Evgeny Agureev has been appointed director of Alrosa’s sales division, the

United Selling Organization. Previously, he served as vice president of Sberbank.

Citychamp Watch and Jewelry has appointed JĂŠrĂ´me Biard director of its watch division. He takes over management of its Corum and Eterna brands.

REMEMBERED chain’s interim CFO following the resignation of Edward Record.

Richard “Rick� Wolf, longtime salesman for the Royal Chain Group, died June 6 from natural causes. He was 68.

Iconic costume jewelry designer Kenneth Jay Lane died July 20 at age 85.

OPENING Blue Nile will open a sixth webroom at the Mall at Rockingham Park in Salem, N.H., this fall.

CLOSING Amanda Tropila Luxury Brand Group (LBG) has named Amanda Tropila public rela-

Sears Holdings Corp. announced it will close 43 more stores—eight Sears stores and 35 Kmarts—by early October.

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tions manager for its New York City office. She most recently served as PR manager for Platinum Guild International. She will specialize in jewelry.

In May, LBG brought on Deanna Russo Clark as jewelry and accessories showroom manager for its West Hollywood, Calif., location.

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KJL BROOCH: COURTESY OF THE REALREAL

Engel, Gumuchian, and Shigley

HONORED The American Gem Society honored Fred Meyer Jewelers’ Peter Engel, Gumuchian’s Myriam Gumuchian, and the GIA’s Dr. James Shigley at its

Deanna Russo Clark JCKONLINE.COM

annual Circle of Distinction gala on July 25 in New York City.

800.622.0960 | royalchain.com Visit us at the IJO, RJO, Leading Jewelers, Atlanta and JANY shows.

NEWS GEMS

GEM PRICING

42

ADJUSTMENTS BRING RELIEF TO MARKET

VS1

The Perfect Stocking Stuffers!

SI1

SI2

GOOD

15

FINE

Alexandrite

G

$6,800

$6,320

$5,700

$4,720

H

$6,080

$5,800

$5,450

$4,470

I

$5,700

$5,200

$4,950

$4,000

J

$4,900

$4,500

$4,080

$3,760

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

Rhodolite Garnet 1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round

IN THE U.S., dealers are cautiously optimistic, as seasonal retail business has been in line with expectations. Overseas, the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair posted betterthan-expected results. Product is also slightly more affordable this year because of modest price corrections that have gradually occurred in certain diamond and colored stone categories since the market peaked in late 2013 to early 2014.

Meanwhile, Tanzania—a major producer of spinel, garnet, sapphire, and, of course, tanzanite—stopped issuing mining licenses. This follows a series of June reforms aimed at increasing the economic benefit derived from the nation’s vast mineral resources. The government’s aim is to curb the outflow of material that has not followed export regulations.

Local traders expect the situation to be resolved quickly; if not, the U.S. retail market could be adversely affected.

Thousands of charms in silver and gold.

VS2

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant

Rubellite Tourmaline

G

$3,570

$3,200

$2,700

$2,340

H

$3,200

$3,000

$2,600

$2,270

I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

Tsavorite Garnet 1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)

G

$12,200

$11,300

$9,350

$7,600

H

$10,300

$10,000

$8,300

$7,150

I

$9,700

$7,900

$7,600

$6,725

J

$7,200

$7,300

$6,400

$6,000

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline 2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut

Pink Sapphire

G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

$6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

J

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

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44

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR

U.S.

• SEPTEMBER 22–24

GEM FAIRE

Salt Lake City gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Livonia, Mich. glwshows.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

San Mateo, Calif. intergem.com

Collinsville, Ill.

7–8

25–26

Jacksonville, Fla.

intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

american beadshows.com

Las Vegas

8–11

JIS MIAMI OCTOBER

Miami Beach, Fla. jisshow.com

12–15

JEWELRY, FASHION & ACCESSORIES SHOW Rosemont, Ill. jfashow.com

14–15

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Tampa, Fla.

american beadshows.com

15–17

STULLER BRIDGE CONFERENCE Lafayette, La. stuller.com

September Birthstone

13–14

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS

SAPPHIRE

West Springfield, Mass.

Rainbow heartbeat bangle with multicolored sapphires in 10k yellow gold; $1,895; SheBee; sales@shebee.com; shebee.com

glwshows.com

iwjg.com

29–OCT. 1 GEM FAIRE San Diego

Color’s the thing at the San Diego Gem Faire Sept. 29–Oct. 1.

gemfaire.com

INDIANAPOLIS BEAD, GEM, MINERAL & JEWELRY SHOW Indianapolis

INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY AND MERCHANDISE SHOW

intergem.com

New Orleans

30–OCT. 1

helenbrett.com

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

24–25

Charleston, S.C.

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS

american beadshows.com

Minneapolis

glwshows.com

Asheville, N.C. glwshows.com

7–9

CENTURION SOUTH BEACH

Miami Beach, Fla. centurion southbeach.com

13–15

GEM FAIRE

Costa Mesa, Calif. gemfaire.com

GEM FAIRE

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

gemfaire.com

intergem.com

6–8

Sacramento, Calif.

WHOLE BEAD SHOW

20–23

Novi, Mich.

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS

aksshow.com

wholebead.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

1–2

Natchez, Miss.

New York City

toteshows.com

• OCTOBER

NATCHEZ JEWELRY & BEAD SHOW

Timonium, Md.

16–17

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Brooklyn, N.Y. iwjg.com

20–22

GEM FAIRE

Santa Rosa, Calif. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Houston

intergem.com

JCKONLINE.COM

26–29

HARRISONBURG BEAD, GEM, MINERAL & JEWELRY SHOW

Harrisonburg, Va.

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Dallas

intergem.com

NEW ORLEANS CHRISTMAS, JEWELRY & BEAD SHOW Kenner, La.

aksshow.com

27–30

NEW YORK CITY JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW New York City nycjaws.com

beadfest.com

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Tacoma, Wash.

28–29

27–29

Birmingham, Ala.

Orlando, Fla.

glwshows.com

JA NEW YORK SPECIAL DELIVERY New York City

ja-newyork.com

toteshows.com

BEAD FEST TACOMA

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS

29–31

american beadshows.com

• NOVEMBER 2–5

MID-SOUTH JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES FAIR Memphis, Tenn. helenbrett.com

3–5

ATLANTA CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY SHOW Atlanta

atlantacontemporary jewelryshow.com

GEM FAIRE

Eugene, Ore. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

Marlborough, Mass. intergem.com

THE CALENDAR

46

INTERNATIONAL Jacksonville, Fla. aksshow.com

4–5

50TH ANNUAL OPAL, GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Anaheim, Calif. opalsociety.org

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Louisville, Ky.

american beadshows.com

5

MJSA CONFAB New York City mjsa.org

9–13

NEW YORK ART, ANTIQUE & JEWELRY SHOW New York City nyfallshow.com

10–12

GEM FAIRE

Puyallup, Wash. gemfaire.com

WHOLE BEAD SHOW

Grass Valley, Calif. wholebead.com

13–14

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Miami

iwjg.com

17–19

GEM FAIRE

Portland, Ore. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Columbus, Ohio intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Seattle

intergem.com

PREMIER WHOLESALE JEWELRY, GIFT & ACCESSORIES SHOW San Antonio

parkertradeshow.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Denver

intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

• SEPTEMBER

27–30

JUNWEX MOSCOW

Singapore

27–OCT. 1 Moscow

junwex.com

30–OCT. 3 INTERGEM 2017 Idar-Oberstein, Germany intergem.de

• OCTOBER 3–7

43RD MIDEAST WATCH & JEWELLERY SHOW Sharjah, United Arab Emirates

mideastjewellery.com

12–15

ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW Istanbul

istanbuljewelry show.com

25–27

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY TOKYO Yokohama, Japan ijt-aki.jp

SINGAPORE JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR singaporejewellery gemfair.com

• NOVEMBER 9–12

SIERAAD INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY ART FAIR Amsterdam

sieraadartfair.com

10–13

CHIBIMART Milan

chibimart.it

15–18

VOD DUBAI INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Dubai, UAE

jewelleryshow.com

16–20

DUBAI WATCH WEEK Dubai, UAE

dubaiwatchweek.com

October Birthstone

OPAL

Pendant with 31 ct. pink opal, 17.28 cts. t.w. rose-cut pink sapphires, and 1.27 cts. t.w. diamonds in 20k gold; $16,400; Buddha Mama; 305-439-2059; buddhamama.com

18–19

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Brentwood, Tenn. american beadshows.com

Japan’s jewelry trade hits Yokohama Oct. 25–27.

Washington, D.C. intergem.com

WEST COAST GEM & MINERAL SHOW Santa Ana, Calif. mzexpos.com

11–12

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Knoxville, Tenn. american beadshows.com

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

GET READY FOR…

VICENZAORO

JANUARY 19–24 JCKONLINE.COM

YOKOHAMA: SEANPAVONEPHOTO/ISTOCK/GETTY; SAN DIEGO: RON THOMAS/ISTOCK/GETTY

JACKSONVILLE CHRISTMAS BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW

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Nelsonus.com 800-489-3327 Info@nelsonus.com

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

49

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK SOUL SISTER

Debbie Klein’s new Boulder, Colo., shop-in-shop pays homage to alternative engagement rings

D KIM HUGGINS PHOTOGRAPHY/ CYNTHIA CRUZ

DEBBIE KLEIN Art + Soul artandsoulboulder.com

BY EMILI VESILIND

EBBIE KLEIN, OWNER of the fine jewelry and art outpost Art + Soul in Boulder, Colo., had been planning to redo her 3,000-squarefoot boutique for years. Then, during a shopping trip with her adult stepson, a 20-something police officer, renovation inspiration struck.

“He had been going to a big-box store looking at an engagement ring for his girlfriend for, like, three months—as guys do,” she recalls with a laugh. “Eventually, he asked me to come see the ring. And when we walked into this big-box store, everyone knew his name and was welcoming him so warmly. I thought, When he wants to buy a pair of earrings for his wife next year, this is exactly where he’ll go.”

SHOP TALK

50

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

“As a bridal retailer, you have the opportunity to start a relationship from the beginning—where people buy their first significant piece of jewelry.”

—Debbie Klein

That retail experience led Klein to create a special section for Art + Soul during a recent top-to-bottom renovation. The shop-in-shop, called Soulmate, exclusively showcases wedding and commitment jewelry— with a special emphasis on alternative engagement rings from innovative fine jewelry brands including Anna Sheffield, Polly Wales, Anne Sportun, Adel Chefridi, Megan Thorne, and Delphine Leymarie.

“Bridal and commitment bands— those are often the first significant pieces of jewelry someone invests in,” Klein explains. “You may not remember where you bought a pair of earrings, but you’ll always remember where your engagement ring came from.”

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

What led you to create Soulmate?

After last year, the economy changed and the local demographics changed a little for us, too, with so many big tech companies coming into the area. It occurred to me that I wasn’t seeing my old reliable clients as much anymore. I thought, Okay, how do I see them more? With bridal, you have the opportunity to really work closely with your clients. That’s why we created Soulmate and expanded the jewelry sections in our store in general. Soulmate features nine to 10 designers doing alternative bridal. It’s an opportunity for people to really see a breadth of different designers’ work.

Someone who really doesn’t know what he or she wants can come in and try on different metals and styles.

What does alternative bridal mean to you as a retailer?

For me, alternative bridal means there’s an element about a style that’s not necessarily something you might find in a big-box store. We carry lots of colored stone styles, and we carry lab-created diamonds from Diamond Foundry, among other things. We started out as an art gallery 17 years ago, so we take a similar approach to jewelry—we don’t carry high-production jewelry. There has to be the hand of the designer in everything.

What does Soulmate look like within the store?

We redid the entire store with all-new casing. For Soulmate, right now we

have primarily pulled most of the store’s bridal into cases in the section.

I created a seating area. And we have a sign with a Wi-Fi password. We have a couple of desks in the store so people can sit down and look at things.

Ring shopping can be an exhausting and overwhelming process, so I wanted to make it fun and friendly.

How did you know the demand for a special alternative bridal section was there?

I know from analyzing my own business. It wasn’t the biggest stretch to take this next step because it was sort of the natural direction of where we were going with bridal. It was a question of: How can we put it together and market it as an entity within the gallery? I don’t want to lose my clients who want a pair of earrings.

How do you see the concept evolving in the future?

I see it growing and being able to rotate different designers in and out of it. I see us being able to continue to offer more custom options, too, which will be really fun. It’s exciting to see where it can go.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER

JCKONLINE.COM

KIM HUGGINS PHOTOGRAPHY/CYNTHIA CRUZ

Alternative engagement rings with sapphire center stones by Adel Chefridi

T H E F U T U R E O F D I G I TA L C U R R E N C Y FOR THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY

LEARN MORE AT JWL.COM

SHOP TALK

RETAIL THERAPY

BUYER POWER

BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: What was your best buy at JCK Las Vegas?

A: Ed Levin is probably my favorite of all the new lines we

picked up this year. I like that all items can be made in any metal combination—that means the line’s appeal isn’t limited only to our sterling customers. Most pieces can be worn two different ways, which makes them more versatile for customers and more fun to sell.… We also ordered Cat Fever jewelry from Coles of London. This will supplement our already super-popular Dog Fever jewelry, which we introduced last year. Customers can submit a picture of their pet and Coles will use it to customize the enameling to match their photo. We already have a list of customers waiting for this line.

SHARI ALTMAN OWNER B&E JEWELERS Southampton, Pa. bandejewelers.com

HARVEY ROVINSKY PRESIDENT BERNIE ROBBINS JEWELERS Somers Point, N.J. bernierobbins.com

A: The big win and takeaway for us was a

collection of important diamonds that we acquired.

We found great values in fancy yellow diamonds [in particular]…. We acquired a collection of all shapes of diamonds ranging from 4 to 10 carats.

One of the greatest advantages of JCK Las Vegas is the depth of its exhibitors. We’re able to create—and commence the process of mounting—these diamonds immediately.… Less than a week after JCK Las Vegas, we’re already receiving our final products.

A: We found gold and

diamond jewelry from NavaDee—pieces of nice quality at a reasonable price. We picked up whole suites of matching bracelets, rings, and necklaces.

We have been looking for that Italian gold look for several years, and they really capture it at a great price.

ASIA KANE DIAMOND JEWELRY BUYER DESCENZA DIAMONDS Boston descenza.com

MEGAN COOPER BUSINESS MANAGER BLUE HERON JEWELRY CO. Poulsbo, Wash. blueheronjewelry.com

A: We placed a large order

with Mabel Chong, who we discovered last year. Her line is so easy to sell, and the mix of textures, colors, and materials feels unexpected and refreshing.… The Southern Gates collection by the Cargo Hold continues to be another JCK find that just keeps growing with us. The styles are perfect for summer.

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-ofjck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

'HVWLQDWLRQ 6W\OH 5IF .POBDP $PMMFDUJPO

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SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

54

15310 ANTIOCH ST. PACIFIC PALISADES, CALIF.

JAIMIE GELLER JEWELRY

Chunky bling shares space with delicate sun- and moon-inspired pieces at this refined yet friendly shop that fits right into its beachy neighborhood

BY CLARISSA CRUZ PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLE L A MOTTE

N

Necklaces from Kismet by Milka and Jacquie Aiche

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

ESTLED ACROSS FROM a bustling restaurant on an unassuming street in Los Angeles’ tony Pacific Palisades neighborhood, Jaimie Geller Jewelry is like the jewelry store version of Cheers: Everybody knows your name.

“Pacific Palisades has a very small-town feel, and everybody knows each other here,” says Jaimie Geller, who owns the boutique with her husband, Michael (pictured above). “We needed our store to be a reflection of that.”

This means that new customers receive thank-you notes, jewelry repair updates arrive via text, and regulars often get a personalized gift for Mother’s Day or birthdays. The store also keeps track of clients’ past purchases to get a sense of individual tastes so Jaimie can select new pieces for the store accordingly. The vibe: everything from Suzanne Kalan’s wearable bling to dainty pieces from Kismet by Milka. “We aren’t your typical stuffy jewelry store,” Jaimie says. “We don’t want people to feel intimidated walking through our doors. Jewelry is a very emotional purchase for people, and we want our clients to be able to browse without pressure.”

55

“We don’t have an exact formula for how we choose jewelry. A lot of the time we just go with what we love.”

The store also sells a perfume oil, 1509; it’s handmade in New York City by a former staffer’s sister.

—Jaimie Geller

IT’S IN THE BAG

RING FEVER

Jaimie, who was a fashion buyer and stylist, and Michael, a third-generation jeweler, started the company in 2007 after their first son, Mason, was born. “We risked everything and used our life savings to buy jewelry we loved in downtown L.A.’s jewelry district and sold it literally out of a duffel bag to my styling clients.” By the summer of 2007, the Gellers had started seeing customers by appointment and introducing them to their favorite brands. By mid-2008—“before we knew the end of the financial world was coming,” says Jaimie—the couple had purchased Michael’s parents’ store and completely gutted and redesigned the shop, and they officially opened Jaimie Geller Jewelry in December 2008.

“We wanted the store to have a beachy, modern feel and carry all different designers,” says Jaimie, citing Suzanne Kalan, Shay Fine Jewelry, Jacquie Aiche, and Jemma Wynne as the boutique’s best-selling brands. Michael personally handles the store’s by-appointment custom and bridal jewelry business, which accounts for about 25 percent of overall sales.

The focus on distinctive pieces pays off: “We really have a wide variety of clients—the age ranges from 20s to 70s, from the super-trendy girl to the ultra-classic person,” says Jaimie. “We even have a few rocker clients with the most original style. And because of social media, we haven’t met some of our best clients in person—but we speak to them weekly!” The most popular items, um, hands down?

“Rings,” says Jaimie. “I think it’s because people see their hands all day, and rings are easy to get off and on. If you’re a jewelry girl, rings are the best quick fix.”

The jewelry isn’t the only draw of the store, which features cool aqua tones, distressed-wood floors, and personal touches such as art books stacked on clear shelves and a rose gold chair with a furry seat cushion. The airy, accessible space makes it easy to see why customers feel comfortable stopping by often. “On any given day, you will find children and puppies shopping with their parents,” says Jaimie. “Yet we still manage to provide top-quality service and amazing jewelry.”

JCKONLINE.COM

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

Bridal Jewelry From Findings to Finished Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re selling at the counter or building at the bench, we have everything you need.

Find mountings and findings, flexible 3C designs, bestsellers, and more at Stuller.com.

Stuller.com

800 877 7777

57

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK

GROOVE IS IN THE ART

Hand-carved stones add an artisan’s edge to today’s statement jewels

1

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

2

3

4 1/ Maya carved turquoise leaf ring in 18k yellow gold and enamel; $9,550; Brooke Gregson; sales@brookegregson.com; brookegregson.com

2/ Hand-carved Bardiglio Imperiale marble earrings in 14k rose gold with gray diamonds; $7,330; Ioanna Souflia; 44-207-254-9735; ioannasouflia.com

3/ Round cabochon ring in molten onyx with black diamonds in 18k blackened white gold; $16,637; Muriel Grateau; 33-14-020-4282; murielgrateau.com JCKONLINE.COM

5

4/ Carved tanzanite bangle with Mexican fire opal, opal, tsavorite, and diamonds in 18k blackened gold; $94,500; Arunashi; 310-8880123; arunashi.com

5/ Carved green jade earrings with tsavorite, black agate, and champagne and white diamonds in 18k black gold; $15,800; Wendy Yue; 646-603-6946; wendyyue.com

THE LOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

58

Reversible 14k yellow gold Grandfather Compass pendant in onyx and mother-ofpearl with diamonds, emerald, and sapphire; $11,040

W HEIRLOOM APPARENT Karma is rich for Kirsty Stone and her up-and-coming brand, Retrouvaí, whose jewels reconnect wearers to the past

BY ARI KARPEL

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

Flying Pig Grandfather Fantasy signet ring in 14k yellow gold; $2,300; Retrouvaí; 646-7456831; retrouvai.com

HEN KIRSTY STONE was a child in Toronto, she did everything you might imagine a future designer would do.

“I was like a creative, gypsy child,” she says of her early years taking her clothes and jewels apart and gluing them back together. “I’d take all the stones out of the little, dinky jewelry that I had and lose them all.”

Stone’s aunt wanted to stoke the next generation’s creativity, so she set up crafts for her children and their cousins. “All the other kids would do one piece and move on to the next game, and I’d be sitting there with, like, 80 things done on the table.” Her grandmother saw how much Stone loved jewelry, so she passed down some priceless pieces, including a gold lace ring with six diamonds set on top. Naturally, young Stone took that apart too.

Whatever she may have lost in precious gems—don’t tell her parents!—Stone has gained in a lifetime of inspiration.

Her 2-year-old line, Retrouvaí, which has recently come into its own, can be traced back to those deconstructing days.

Her collection of future heirlooms is named after a French word meaning “to reconnect with something from your past.”

When we meet for lunch in Los Angeles in late spring, Stone is still fielding orders from last fall’s Paris Fashion Week (she exhibited at For Future Reference’s private showroom), and she has just wrapped a trunk show in Dallas that depleted her entire inventory. It’s a whole new world for Stone, who’s loving every minute—even if she feels a bit discombobulated.

“I kind of have my head down,” Stone announces upon her arrival. “Like, I live here, and I don’t normally wear clothes”—by which I think she means she is working her JCKONLINE.COM

THE LOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

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Mixed tourmaline and garnet Gypsy earrings in 14k yellow gold; $4,990

butt off and she puts on whatever clothes are at hand before she runs downtown to oversee the production of her line.

(For the record, Stone looks lovely in a black-and-white striped skirt, no jewelry but a wedding band of emerald-cut diamonds on platinum, and a hint of makeup.)

She has a way of seeming simultaneously flighty and grounded—which just might be the sign of a true creative entrepreneur. “I’m reinterpreting classic motifs,” she says excitedly, “and giving them a modern message.” Stone leaps from her seat, momentarily abandoning her quinoa vegetable soup, and unties a velvet case on the next table, unfurling her entire collection in progress.

There are signets, both rings and pendants, galore—a flying pig, a unicorn, an owl, and a lion. A double-sided pendant has a double-sided diamond. A diamond boomerang pendant rests on a quartz inlay that says “Karma.”

“I have a parrot signet that says ‘Truth,’ which is onyx and emerald. And then the mother-of-pearl and diamond signet has sunshine on the back, and it says ‘Optimism.’ ” The letters are kind of jumbled, so you have to decipher one of the four ideals: Wisdom, Truth, Karma, and Optimism.

“It started with the flying pig,” Stone explains. “I wanted

“I want to give people a head start on the stories they will pass down.

If I open your jewelry box, I see a story in every single piece.”

— Kirsty Stone

Diamond Magna ring in 14k yellow gold; $2,645

Diamond channel Barrel band in 14k yellow gold; $4,590

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

to do a signet, and I wanted to give it a twist.” Customers’ initials would be the old version of that. Stone was angling for quirky. “I mean, I’m a little offbeat. I wear things that people would say don’t go together, but I don’t care.”

The flying pig is, by far, her biggest seller. It’s engraved with a message: “Anything is possible.”

Indeed, just four years ago, Stone was still working her day job managing a high-end architecture firm in Beverly Hills, Calif., after relocating from Toronto in 2010 for L.A.’s weather and creative community. She started at the firm when one of her closest friends was just opening it. “We were in his house, with his kids playing on the floor, while we started a company,” she says. “It began from nothing. Now it’s a $50 million company with 50 employees.”

Working there taught her priceless lessons in owning and running a business, but she was careful not to get too caught up: She was doing this in order to get her footing and create her own jewelry line. “I never forgot about it,” Stone says.

“It pained me on a regular basis, though I loved the people I worked with. I was like, I’m building your dream, not mine.”

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Marea by Belle Étoile © 2017 belleetoilejewelry.com

THE LOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

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Mother-of-pearl inlay Swivel earrings in 14k yellow gold; $3,725

Large lapis inlay Wisdom pendant in 14k yellow gold with diamonds; $3,910

Triple Coil pinky ring with mother-of-pearl and diamond in 14k yellow gold; $1,550

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

During those years, she prepared herself by shadowing a few jewelers in downtown L.A. She was driven to learn about how everything is made so that now, as she says, “I’m not walking around like an idiot, being like, ‘I design jewelry.’ A lot of people just want to make money. They take pictures off Instagram and drop them off to have someone make it better.”

Stone attributes much of her knowledge to the generous tutelage of a jeweler in downtown L.A. who took her under his wing. She recalls him saying, “I see myself in you.

When I was your age and living in Lebanon, I was ready to do anything to get experience, and someone gave me a bench.” So he paid it forward. “He would introduce me to people and tell them, ‘She gets my price,’ ” Stone says.

Her surname seems beautifully symbolic, as if becoming a jeweler were her destiny. But she wasn’t born with the name Stone; she married into it. And it was the act of marriage that allowed her to debut her own line. Stone’s wedding four years ago paved the way for the green card that gave her the freedom to pursue her jewelry calling, just as she was thinking the architecture business was solid without her. Perhaps it was destiny.

She had already started off slowly, making wedding rings for friends. Newly empowered, she dove in and debuted Supply and Demand, a line of jewels that connected craftspeople in developing nations to a supply chain here.

She envisioned it almost like Toms (the wildly popular shoe brand) but for jewelry, in partnership with Opportunity International, a financial services nonprofit for which she’d volunteered, visiting different countries and sourcing gems.

One day she realized that she was pursuing something noble and worthy, but she wasn’t following her heart. “The jewelry was going in a different direction—those early collections were confused.” She was being driven to create designs that tended more toward high fashion, but building the supply chain was stifling her creatively. It was that understanding that set her on the path to Retrouvaí.

In 2015, Stone began to evolve the aesthetic while keeping the old name. Then she started on the signets, she rebranded as Retrouvaí, and—boom!—she started receiving attention.

Today, Retrouvaí can be found in select stores as far afield as Brazil, Switzerland, and the U.K. It’s also sold in Barneys New York and at boutiques in and around Chicago (Frances Heffernan), Dallas (Ylang 23), and New York City (Fivestory).

Stone has found clarity in her life by helping create meaning in the lives of her customers: “I want women to give things to their children that will make them feel powerful. I want to give people a head start on the stories they will pass down.

If I open your jewelry box, I see a story in every single piece.

Like, ‘This came from here,’ or ‘This, oh, it’s a funny story.’ ” Meanwhile, as she grows her business, she barely has time to create stories of her own. “I’m just trying to get everything done so people don’t yell at me,” she says, smiling.

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPHY: BARTOSZ POTOCKI

THE LOOK

Asks...

THERESA HARPER BRUNO Impatience is a virtue for the Mountain Brook, Ala.–based Jordan Alexander designer

PEARL LOVERS KNOW that Jordan Alexander is one of the go-tos for cool-girl pearls. (For proof, see the chain-wrapped strands on page 72.) But jewelry lovers know that Theresa Harper Bruno’s brand is about so much more. “Part of what drives me is being able to push into every corner of the business,” says Bruno, who’s also known for her colorful cabochons, one-of-a-kind styles, and generous use of diamonds. “It’s about staying true to designs I believe in and making relationships that allow us to sell those designs.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Number of years in the biz: 7 Number of employees you oversee: 10 Family and pets: Two amazing sons, the best husband, and fur baby Jules [pictured, above], who rules.

Describe your personal style: I like to look considered, but not contrived. I’m most comfortable in a silk blouse, denim, and whatever shoe I’m coveting at the moment.

First piece you ever designed: I put together a long strand of natural colored baroque pearls juxtaposed with an edgy darkened diamond piece.

The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: My wedding ring!

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

Jordan Alexander 18k gold and pavé diamond Caged chrysoprase earrings One-of-a-kind 18k gold Ce Soir earrings with African opals, zircons, and diamonds

Favorite type of pearl: Tahitian baroque.

Best piece of advice you ever received: “You are capable of so much more than you imagine.”

Worst piece of advice: I don’t remember it.

First job ever: Playing the piano for ballet classes.

How did you get started designing jewelry? It was very simple. I wanted to create things for myself that had a particular aesthetic. I never had an intention of starting a business.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing?

A lot of yoga!

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: My wedding ring, a favorite lariat from a couple of collections back, Tahitian studs, a stack of small gold bracelets that we just introduced in the line.

Five items on your desk right now: A book on the works of Annie Leibovitz, a photo of my niece, loose stones for my next collection, my next travel itinerary, and a piece of palo santo.

Five songs on your playlist: “Daydream,” Beach Fossils; “You Are All I See,” Active Child; “Disparate Youth,” Santigold; Ravel’s Trois Poèmes de Stéphane Mallarmé; “Working Girl,” Dolly Parton.

Exercise regimen: I wish I had a regimen! I travel so much for the collection, I try to embrace any opportunity to walk or bike around whatever city I land in.

What did you have for breakfast? A lot of coffee and avocado toast.

Guilty pleasure: Gummies.

Drink (daytime/evening): Champagne and Champagne.

First website you check every day (not your own!): theSkimm Scent: Tom Ford’s Black Orchid.

How do you unwind? I have a meditation corner in my office where I like to recharge. It’s amazing what 10 minutes of stillness can do for your day. I always feel the most balanced near a body of water. My husband and I frequent the lake and always welcome downtime along the coast.

Book you’re reading: All the Light We Cannot See, Anthony Doerr.

Book you’ve been meaning to get to: Milk and Honey, Rupi Kaur.

Favorite movie: Too many to list…anything with Bogart and Bacall! Plus Roman Holiday, The African Queen, Erin Brockovich.

Who would play you in your life story? I’d have to know how it ends first.

Personal motto: “Patience is a virtue, but impatience gets things done.”

JCKONLINE.COM

COFFEE: NUTNARIN/GETTY; GUMMIES: AJAFOTO/GETTY

Q&A

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Dauphin pearl earring in 14k gold, $1,800, Sophie Bille Brahe, 45-53-588-996, sophiebillebrahe. com; caged pearl lariat in 18k gold with diamonds, $2,310, Shay, 646-754-6831, shayfinejewelry.com

FEATURES

Photograph by Kenneth Willardt

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PEA RLS’ NIGHT OU T YOU’LL BE DRESSED TO IMPRESS WITH THESE B A RO Q U E B E A U T I E S , S O U T H S E A S TA R S , TA H I T I A N W O N D E R S , AND MOTHER- OF-PEARL STUNNERS

Photography by Kenneth Willardt S t y l i n g b y Solange Franklin

Jewelr y direction by Randi Molofsky

Tahitian keshi pearl bracelet with moonstones and diamonds in 18k white gold, $79,500, Margot McKinney, 61-704-708-596, margotmckinney. com; natural white South Sea pearl ring in platinum with diamonds, $68,000, JYE Luxury Collection, 415621-8880, jyescorp. com; Indorussian opal and pearl earrings in 14k yellow gold and sterling silver, $3,200, Sanjay Kasliwal, 212-988-1511, sanjaykasliwal.com

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Royal diamonds pearl choker in 22k yellow gold with emeralds; $85,000; Sanjay Kasliwal; 212-988-1511; sanjaykasliwal.com

Mother-of-pearl Compass signet ring in 14k yellow gold with sapphire and diamonds, $2,185, RetrouvaĂ­, 646745-6831, retrouvai. com; Carnaby Street mother-of-pearl cocktail ring with diamonds in 18k rose gold, $7,550, Roberto Coin, 800-853-5958, robertocoin.com

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36-inch chainwrapped baroque pearl necklace in 18k rose, yellow, and white gold; $16,100; Jordan Alexander; 646-645-7831; jordanalexander jewelry.com

(PREVIOUS PAGES) BLUE VELVET DRESS: NILI LOTAN; CAMEL HAT: YESTADT MILLINERY; RED BODYSUIT: ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER; (THIS PAGE) HAT: GIGI BURRIS

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South Sea pearl and diamond earrings in 18k black gold, $15,000, South Sea and Tahitian pearl ring with diamonds in 18k black gold, $9,000; Yoko London; 917-213-8161; yokolondon.com

H A U T E F O R T H E H O L I D A Y S

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W H E N I T C O M E S TO S TO C K I N G YO U R S H E LV E S F O R T H E M O S T WO N D E R F U L (AND BUSIEST) TIME OF THE YEAR, THINK CLASSICSâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; CHUNKY COLORED T E N N I S B R A C E L E T S , F RO N T - FA C I N G H O O P S â&#x20AC;&#x201D; W I T H A T W I S T

Photography by Joel Stans Prop st yling by Jo Jo Li Jewelr y direction by Randi Molofsky

S H A D ES O F P I N K Ruby and pink sapphire Masterpiece earrings in 18k rose gold and platinum with diamonds, $29,500, Robert Procop, 310-276-6041, robertprocop.com; rose Nymph pink sapphire pendant in 18k yellow gold, $11,025, ARK, 646-745-6831, arkfinejewelry.com; (opposite page) pink sapphire heart ring in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, price on request, Pamela Huizenga, 772-871-0033, pamelahuizenga.com; bangle with rubies and sapphires in 18k rose gold, $47,000, VTse, 626577-9288, vtsejewelry.com; earrings with spinel, sapphire, garnet, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold, price on request, Pamela Huizenga

B EZ E L- S ET T E N N I S B R AC E L ETS (From top) Tourmaline bracelet in 18k rose gold, price on request, Irene Neuwirth, 323-285-2000, ireneneuwirth.com; emerald bracelet in 18k rose gold, price on request, Robert Procop, 310-276-6041, robertprocop.com; black diamond bracelet in 18k yellow gold, price on request, Pamela Huizenga, 772-871-0033, pamelahuizenga.com

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FO RWA R D - FAC I N G H O O PS (Clockwise from top) Classic Parisienne earrings in 18k rose and white gold with diamonds, $1,575, Roberto Coin, robertocoin.com; Celestial front-facing large hoops in 18k rose gold with diamonds, $14,280, front-facing Cross hoops in 18k rose gold with diamonds, $6,720, Shay, 646-745-6831, shayfinejewelry.com; intricate hoop earrings in 14k rose gold, $3,255, Gabriel & Co., 800-886-5422, gabrielny.com

C E L EST I A L ST Y L ES (From top) Stardust black diamond earrings, with star stud below, in 14k gold, $2,095, Djula, 646-8699585, djula.fr; large Constellation dome ring in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $7,850, Adam Foster Fine Jewelry, 314-771-3390, fosterjewelry.com; star stud earrings in 14k white and 14k rose gold, $1,090 per pair, moon stud earring in 14k yellow gold, $440 (sold as pair), Gabriel & Co., 800-886-5422, gabrielny.com

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(From top) Lantern white enamel door-knocker earrings in 20k gold with diamonds, $9,340, Buddha Mama, 305-439-2059, buddha mama.com; Big Dipper earring in 14k rose gold with diamonds, $295 (sold singly), Smith & Mara, info@ smithandmara.com, smithandmara. com; Star Eye necklace with black and white diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $3,355, Ileana Makri, 347-933-6399, ileanamakri.com

E NA M E L ACC E N TS (From top) Black enamel and 22k gold leaf bangle in 18k yellow gold, $3,289, Soho, 212-2193734, sohojewelry.com; classic striped signet ring in 18k yellow gold, $2,200, Jessica Biales, 917-495-3868, jessicabiales.com; Dune Orb white enamel pendant in 18k rose gold, $1,255, Alessandro Barellini, 646-404-2500, alessandrobarellini.com; chain with Diamond Point Initial on ruby Annex Link in 18k gold, $2,250, Foundrae, 212-231-9898, foundrae.com

81

S I G N ET R I N GS (From top) Block signet ring in 18k yellow gold, $2,000, Jessica Biales, 917-495-3868, jessicabiales.com; rectangle satinfinish double green tourmaline ring in 18k yellow gold, $10,000, Jacquie Aiche, 310-550-7529 ext. 101, jacquieaiche.com; diamond 10 Commandments ring in 18k rose gold, $48,250, Robert Procop, 310-276-6041, robertprocop.com; pavĂŠ diamond pinky ring in 18k rose gold, $5,040, Shay, 646-7456831, shayfinejewelry.com; Candy sapphire signet ring in 18k yellow gold, $2,200, Jessica Biales

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B y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d

TRICKS & BRICKS

HOW TO MAKE YOUR STORE AN ATTRACTIVE, INVITING, AND ENJOYABLE PLACE TO SHOP

F

AMANDA PINSON: JEFF HERR; JOHN HARDY: F. OUDEMAN; ALCHEMY: LINCOLN BARBOUR; M. FLYNN: WEBB CHAPPELL; SHREVE & CO.: DREW ALTIZER

Stores to adore: the sleek and chic Alchemy Jeweler in Portland, Ore.; M. Flynn in Boston; Shreve & Co. in San Francisco; (opposite page, from l.) Amanda Pinson Jewelry in Chattanooga, Tenn., and John Hardy in New York City

83

OR FINE JEWELRY retailers, managing the millions of small details that make a store a pleasant and efficient place to shop—things like greeting customers warmly and keeping cases streak-free—is as important as ever.

But in a rapidly consolidating U.S. retail environment that saw 1,269 jewelry businesses fold in 2016 and another 579 shutter in the first half of 2017, according to the Jewelers Board of Trade, ticking off the traditional boxes is no longer enough to guarantee that a store will thrive, or even survive.

Until recently, the fine jewelry industry was insulated from the challenges other consumer categories faced when e-commerce and mobile shopping began to encroach on their brick-and-mortar sales.

Jewelers were buffered by their products’ high price points; it took time for shoppers to feel comfortable buying $5,000 engagement rings and $2,000 sapphire earrings online.

But now, in the age of free shipping and no-questionsasked returns, the idea of a price threshold preventing a shopper from buying anything online—be it a set of brass buttons or a sailboat—seems rather quaint.

That said, shoppers are not abandoning brick-and-mortar.

A study published by Retail Dive earlier this year reported that 62 percent of consumers still prefer to buy most products in stores.

We are, however, approaching a tipping point—a moment when shoppers spend more for goods online than they do in stores. E-commerce has grown by roughly $30 billion a year since 2010, according to the National Retail Federation, which predicted that online retail will grow eight to 12 percent this year—three times higher than the growth rate of the retail industry overall. Add to that competition the recent surge of secondhand luxury retailers into the market and the introduction of fine jewelry to the online fashion rental category (one new service, Flont, is backed by Net-a-Porter cofounder/ investor Carmen Busquets and proposes to be the Rent the Runway of fine jewelry), and future prospects for traditional jewelry stores dim considerably.

Jim Froeschle—a sales director and former top interior design executive for Stuller who works with roughly 130 high-performing independent jewelry retailers across the country—says many of his collaborators are resistant to making big changes, even when big changes are clearly required.

“To be competitive, you need to strip away all the old models of doing business and be open to change,” he says. “If you think about it, it’s the key to success in any era.” In most cases, change doesn’t require a 180-degree reversal, he adds.

But nips and tucks may not be enough to buoy a business that’s already adrift. That’s why we asked a trio of professional problem solvers who work with jewelry retailers daily to weigh in on missteps they typically see and recommend bold moves proprietors can make to become (and remain) competitive.

84

“Say I fall in love with a bracelet online, then they don’t have it in the store.

That’s a big problem.”

—Ann S. Arnold, Buyers Intelligence Group

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT

TONE SHIFT Many jewelers tend to ignore a second type of store aesthetics: their dress code.

Very few industries in the U.S. require employees to wear suits and ties anymore, yet many jewelry stores maintain a suit-and-tie dress code. Such formality may be appropriate in a few markets.

But there’s little room for it in modern retailing.

“Millennials are intimidated by suits and ties,” says Froeschle, who’s advised more than a few jewelers to trade their formal wear for business-casual attire. “They see the suit and they think they’re going to be hard-sold to.” Gen Z is just as uncomfortable with fancy getups, says Retail Doctor Bob Phibbs, in part because “they don’t value status in the same way baby boomers do.” Instituting a business-casual dress code that prizes trendy and creative styling (particularly with jewelry) can modernize a stodgy-feeling store overnight.

18k Swan Amulet with diamond pavé; $17,500; Temple St. Clair; 212-219-8664; templestclair.com

THE GOODS STUFF

Ritratto rings with smoky quartz, London blue topaz, and amethyst and diamonds in 18k rose gold; $9,600–$12,100; Pomellato; 800-254-6020; pomellato.com

TOUGH CHOICES However, no getup in the world can fix the problem Phibbs believes is all but eroding the industry from the inside out: apathetic salespeople.

He often advises store owners to lay off employees who’ve lost their drive to sell. Keeping low-performing employees on the payroll can have dire consequences for a small company.

“This market is putting people out of business,” Phibbs says.

“If your salespeople are talking about Game of Thrones behind the counter all day and not viewing the next person who walks in as a chance to make another great sale, you’re in trouble.”

Phibbs says many retailers think of their long-term employees as family—which makes the prospect of laying them off all the more daunting.

“But a Bitter Betty will bring you down,” he says. “You go into so many jewelry stores and see the guy behind the counter with the Big Gulp cup that he thinks no one sees. These employees are no longer working, really.”

Secret Garden earrings in 18k yellow gold with 0.76 ct. t.w. round and 1.13 cts. t.w. princess diamonds; $9,000; Gumuchian; 212-593-9888; gumuchian.com

Ann S. Arnold, chief strategy officer for the Buyers Intelligence Group (BIG), says the most common misstep she sees small jewelry retailers making is poor inventory management, both online and in-store.

“Customers have to know what they’re getting before they come in these days,” she explains. “Say I fall in love with a bracelet online, then I go to the shop and they don’t have it in the store.

That’s a big problem. And it happens a lot.”

Arnold adds that aligning inventory doesn’t mean every bit of inventory has to be present and available on both channels; dynamic retail stores can and should have both in-store and online exclusives.

“You have to communicate with the consumer what the situation is,” Arnold says. “If it’s only available online, make sure they know that before they walk into your store planning to buy it.”

SMOOTH OPERATORS Many operational procedures specific to selling fine jewelry could be turning off potential consumers too.

Modern shoppers are quickly becoming acclimated to buying nearly all their products with a few finger-swipes on their smartphones—and may have little patience for some of jewelry retail’s standard procedures.

Phibbs asks retailers to consider (or reconsider) their locked front door, for starters. “Having to be buzzed, you’re already feeling judged by an employee who’s deeming you to be appropriate or not,” he says. “Then the guy’s behind the counter with his scrunchie of keys like he’s holding the keys to the kingdom.”

The experience strips consumers of their power—the power to browse product alone and even come and go as they please. And in modern, digitally driven retailing, the consumer shapes the buying experience, not the retailer.

“There is so much room in this industry for someone to punish their competitors,” says Phibbs. “And it all comes down to providing a great store experience.”

(PREVIOUS PAGE) TWIG RING IN 18K YELLOW GOLD WITH 1.06 CT. PADPARADSCHA SAPPHIRE AND 0.08 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $4,340, K. BRUNINI JEWELS, 858-259-8779, KBRUNINI.COM; REF. 7200/50G-011 CALATRAVA IN 34.6 MM 18K WHITE GOLD CASE WITH BLUE MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL AND DIAMOND INDEXES, $29,845, PATEK PHILIPPE, 212-218-1240, PATEK.COM

The advantages of shopping in a physical store could be distilled down to three elements: personalized, knowledgeable sales assistance; the ability to see and touch a wide range of products (ideally, the entire breadth of a company’s merchandise); and the pleasure of visiting a space that looks and feels modern, comfortable, and thoughtfully designed.

Many jewelry retailers excel in the first two areas. But too many are lacking in the third. Worn carpeting, tarnished brass accents, faded or outdated art or wallpaper: Such signs of wear and tear exist too often in independent jewelry stores, which are now competing with the pristine aesthetic experiences provided by bright and dynamic websites—not just the store a few blocks down.

“Basic things like color schemes are also important,” adds Froeschle. “If you haven’t painted in 10 or 15 years, paint your store! It’s time.” Even easier to fix is a store’s clutter quotient: “It drives me crazy when there’s too much clutter on the countertops—ads, signs for local charities, cheap jewelry.”

Studies show that consumers form their feelings about a store within the first nine seconds. Retailers who invest in updating their interiors will be poised to capitalize on those positive first impressions.

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SCHO OL TIES

By Amanda Baltazar

JEWELRY RETAILERS ARE TEAMING UP WITH COLLEGES TO DRIVE BOTH REVENUE AND VISIBILITY

RICK ANTONA, THE owner of Uptown Diamond in Houston, expects to see revenue double in the next year, and he attributes the spike to his role as the official jeweler for the University of Texas.

For the next five years, the store will design and craft championship rings, money clips, necklaces, cufflinks, and bracelets for all sports as well as the coveted T-Ring, awarded to every football letterman who graduates from UT. The contract with the University of Texas is a big win for Uptown Diamond, but it’s not the only way for a jeweler to partner with a college or university. Jewelry stores are engaging with schools in a variety of programs because marketing to a collegiate audience continues to pay off.

THE BIG PRESENTATION Let’s start with Uptown Diamond. To secure the exclusive contract, the store—along with three others—prepared a request for proposal (RFP) for the athletic department, which assessed the bids to determine the best candidate.

Antona didn’t take the pitch lightly. In fact, he and his partner spent $10,000 and around four months putting together a professional presentation.

(From top) UT’s 2015 swimming & diving national championship ring and Big 12 baseball championship ring

by Uptown Diamond

“We educated the university about the entire design and production process of crafting a championship ring and showed them how our rings were superior to our competitors’,” Antona says. “We were completely transparent.”

Once he’d delivered the bid, Antona and his team made an in-person presentation that included CAD/CAM design artwork, 3-D wax molds, a video, ring samples, and even the ring’s presentation box. He also discussed the history of Uptown Diamond and plans for the new manufacturing plant the store would build if it got the contract.

“We addressed all their issues,” he says. “We put on an incredible presentation, which allowed them to see the passion we have for this business.”

Uptown Diamond’s anticipated business bump will come not only from sports-related jewelry revenue but also from increased sales to both recent graduates seeking engagement rings and alumni buyers looking to show pride in their school.

Next, Uptown is moving forward with an exclusive contract with Texas A&M University. Antona put together the winning bid in the same way he approached the University of Texas proposal, he says, though it cost half as much this time around because he was experienced in the process.

SPONSORSHIP OPPORTUNITIES David Gardner’s Jewelers and Gemologists in College Station, Texas, doesn’t have an exclusive agreement with Texas A&M and doesn’t make jewelry for the university, but it’s heavily invested in marketing via Aggie athletics and working with the students.

A decade ago, the jeweler began sponsoring a video feature at football games called “Ask the Aggies,” in which football players are asked amusing questions. The funniest segment is aired during the instant replays.

“It’s become such a tradition that most of the 100,000 people in the stadium stay in their seats at halftime, until they’ve watched ‘Ask the Aggies,’ ” says Julia Gardner, who owns the store with her husband, David. “We’ve become known for this.”

Gardner’s also features ribbon boards—moving horizontal digital advertisements—at each football game. “This gives

RINGS: PHOTOGRAPH BY JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

86

87 (Opposite page) The Ross-Simons kiss cam at Providence College; (this page) an A&M focus group at Gardner’s; Uptown Diamond’s RFP

“The student market is its own animal. You have to reintroduce yourself every four years.”

not necessarily about how much money you make off each person who gets a gift letter,” Simone says. “It’s that you’re getting your name in front of 10,000 people per game.”

The point of any kind of athletic spon—Julia Gardner, David Gardner’s Jewelers and Gemologists sorship, especially a local one, is to engender goodwill and show you’re part of the community, says Michael Levin, associate us visibility with students and alumni,” Julia explains. “The professor of marketing at Otterbein University in Westerville, student market is its own animal, and you have to reintroOhio. “You’re also tapping into a base of identity attachment duce yourself every four years to a new group.” to a university—not just from people who went there but also Consistency is key when advertising at college athletic the aspirational group, the people who support it athletically.” events, says John Torella, senior adviser with retail consulting firm J.C. Williams Group. “If you’re going to do [someGAMES AND GIVEAWAYS thing like this] just once a year, forget it,” he says.

Sierra-West Jewelers in Orem, Utah, has been working with Beyond the games themselves, the Gardners work with Brigham Young University’s athletic department for more Texas A&M in another way: They hold monthly in-store fothan 25 years. “It’s a great way to get their brand in front of cus groups, designed to help guide Gardner’s engagement ring our students and our wealthy alumni,” says Jared Bell, general sales and marketing efforts. The groups typically have 25 to 30 sales manager of BYU Athletics. people, mostly female students, Julia says. However, the store At football and basketball games, packets from Sierramakes a concerted effort to gather groups of men—mostly West are hidden under 80 seats; one contains a diamond. juniors and seniors—twice a semester. While the sessions with During a timeout, an announcement lets attendees know to the women are important (for feedback on the style and shape check beneath their seats. The winner is revealed at the next of rings they covet), the men’s participation is invaluable, she game, and Sierra-West gets another mention. says, because they are usually the ones who buy the jewelry.

The store also brands itself at alumni events and at the courtside seats reserved for the wealthiest attendees. For THE SPORTING LIFE these, the retailer provides elegant marketing brochures.

At basketball games at Providence College in Rhode Island, Hamilton Jewelers in Princeton, N.J., runs a program marketing for the Cranston, R.I.–based Ross-Simons comes with nearby Princeton University. The jeweler collaborates down to a kiss. At a dozen events each year, the camera pans with the school’s human resources department to provide a over the crowd, then stops on a couple for a kiss that is feaselection of items—ranging from jewelry to timepieces—for tured on the digital screen along with the Ross-Simons name. associates to choose from when they are going to receive a Each kissing couple receives a “gift letter” for $200 to any of gift through the university’s employee recognition program. the company’s nine stores (including the Warwick flagship and “It’s a turnkey solution for busy human resource teams eight other locations, which operate under the name Sidney and avoids many issues typically found in selecting award Thomas). At the end of the season, the 12 couples are asked to gifting,” says Hamilton vice president Donna Bouchard. come to center court at halftime and receive a box from Bob In addition, the retailer is a licensed provider to the school Simone, chief operating officer of Ross-Simons. Eleven boxes for many exclusive jewelry and home-accessory items (think hold a cubic zirconia; one contains a diamond ring. tiger-themed tableware). “It’s brand equity to work with these The store has been sponsoring the kiss for nine years. “It’s elite pillars in our communities,” Bouchard explains.

If you’re preparing to pitch a university, be sure to heed this advice from Rick Antona of Uptown Diamond in Houston:

1 2 3 4 5

Use video to bring your presentation alive. Antona included the University of Texas song, logo, and campus photos alongside information on Uptown Diamond and its products in his video presentation.

Hire professionals. Antona worked with his public relations company.

Be transparent. “This makes the college feel they can completely trust you,” Antona says. “We gave a complete history of ourselves and answered every question.”

Find out the college’s issues with past sponsors, such as delivery times and the quality of work, and make sure you detail a solution to each one in your presentation.

Show how those issues won’t happen with you.

Bring along jewelry samples so college representatives can see and touch them.

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

FACTS OF LOVE

INSIDE THE KNOTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 2017 JEWELRY & ENGAGEMENT STUDY

RING THEORY

MORGAN NORMAN/GALLERY STOCK

THE SHAPES, STONES & STYLES TO STOCK FOR WEDDING SEASON

W H O L LY M AT R I M O N Y OUR ANNUAL ODE TO LOVE AND MARRIAGE

90

R I N G T H E O R Y

FROM SPLIT-SHANK STYLES TO PEAR-SHAPE STONES, FROM BRILLIANT WHITE TO ORGANIC COLORED DIAMONDS, WE’VE GOT EVERY THING A MODERN BRIDE (AND ROSE G O L D – L O V I N G G RO O M ) C O U L D P O S S I B LY WA N T

(Clockwise from bottom left) Two-tone ring in 14k gold with diamonds, starting at $2,295, Mars Jewelry, 888-592-6277, marsjewelry.com; 14k white gold ring with 4.17 ct. oval tanzanite and 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,499, Cirari, info@cirari.com, cirari.com; Perspective ring in platinum with 0.94 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,800 (without center stone), Karl Lagerfeld, 800-487-2724, sayyeswithkarl.com; Modern engagement ring with 1.38 cts. t.w. round diamonds in 18k gold, $5,675 (without center stone), Noam Carver, info@noamcarver.com, noamcarver.com

91 (Clockwise from below) Skull eternity band in 18k rose gold, $1,495, Anthony Lent, 646-745-6831, anthonylent.com; faceted ring in tungsten carbide with patented rose goldâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;colored metal blend, $355, Triton, 800-487-2724, tritonjewelry. com; wedding band in 14k rose gold with Natcoco wood interior, $1,490, Lashbrook, 801-352-7388, lashbrookdesigns.com; Adonis band in 18k rose and white gold, $1,000, Spinelli Kilcollin, marisa@ spinellikilcollin.com, spinellikilcollin. com; 14k rose gold band with diamonds, $899, Kama Schachter, 866-843-5363, kamaschachter.com

92 (Clockwise from top) 5.16 ct. fancy yellow diamond ring in platinum and 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $173,160, Joshua J. Fine Jewelry, 213-624-0111, joshuajfinejewelry.com; Chevron collection pear-shape ring with 8.53 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum, price on request, Harry Kotlar, 213-626-0428, harrykotlar.com; Vanilla Gold ring with 4.19 ct. Neon Blue Paraiba Tourmaline and 1.72 cts. t.w. Vanilla Diamonds, $69,498, Le Vian Couture, 877-253-8426, levian.com; ring in 18k white gold with 2.29 ct. pear-shape brown diamond, 0.6 ct. t.w. heart-shape diamonds, and 0.6 ct. t.w. pavĂŠ diamonds, $48,000, VTse, 626577-9288, vtsejewelry.com; Lovely collection semi-mount in 14k white gold, $1,129 (without center stone), Tasha R, 888-999-1597, tashar.com

93

(Clockwise from bottom) Ring in 18k rose gold with rose-cut champagne diamond and brown and white diamond accents, $3,650, Sethi Couture, 415-863-1475, sethicouture.com; one-of-a-kind naturally colored rough diamond ring in 18k yellow gold, $13,225, Todd Reed, 303-442-6280, toddreed.com; rustic diamond marquise leaf ring with sapphires in 22k yellow gold, $6,100, Cathy Waterman, cathywaterman.com; Katla ring in white gold with 1.03 ct. champagne diamond, $6,060, Chinchar/Maloney, 503-946-8227, chincharmaloney.com

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FA C T S

96

LOVE OF

THE RESULTS OF THE KNOTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 2017 JEWELRY & ENGAGEMENT STUDY

THE GIFTS

42%

OF BRIDES WORE FINE JEWELRY

WORE COSTUME ON THEIR WEDDING DAY

THE TOP 3 STYLES CHOSEN BY BRIDES:

69% EARRINGS

38%

HAIR JEWELRY/ HEADBAND

37%

BRACELETS

$106

Average spend on jewelry per bridesmaid, with earrings accounting for largest share

$333

AVERAGE SPEND ON JEWELRY FOR THE BRIDE $560

(59%)

$408

AVERAGE AMOUNT GROOM SPENT TO COMPLETE HIS LOOK, WITH CUFFLINKS (27%) AND WATCHES (22%) ACCOUNTING FOR THE LARGEST SHARES

Average amount bride spent on groom, with watches as most popular choice (64%)

40%

OF BRIDES HAVE GIVEN THEIR SPOUSE/PARTNER A WATCH AT SOME POINT

$160

Average spend on jewelry per groomsman, with cufflinks accounting for largest share

(45%)

FRESHWATER PEARL HINGED CUFF, $375, BOUNKIT; RETRO CLASSIC CABOCHON CUFFLINKS IN SILVER WITH BLACK ONYX, $490, TACORI; MEDITERRANEAN DROP EARRINGS IN SILVER WITH DIAMOND ACCENTS, $125, GABRIEL & CO.; THE RUNWELL 47 MM IN BLACK LEATHER AND STAINLESS STEEL, $550, SHINOLA; PAC MAN CUFFLINKS IN ENAMEL, $125, PAUL SMITH

58%

ANKE & GUANCHEN HAVE BEEN TOGETHER FOR ONE YEAR. HER DIAMONDS HAVE SPENT TWO BILLION YEARS BENEATH THE EARTHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SURFACE AND A FEW MONTHS ON HER FINGER.

98

THE COUPLE

HE SAID

of brides prefer to have a different shape of stone than the traditional round

73% of brides began researching rings before they were engaged (compared with 78% of luxury brides*).

Luxury brides are more likely to look to luxury-brand ads for inspiration:

42% vs. 31% of all brides.

62%

OF BRIDES RELIED ON PINTEREST FOR RING RESEARCH AND/OR INSPIRATION

55% OF BRIDES —BUT ONLY 17% OF GROOMS —WOULD RATHER HAVE A

SMALLER, BETTER-QUALITY DIAMOND THAN A LARGER STONE OF LESSER QUALITY A majority of brides

(65%)still prefer the

42% OF BRIDES RECEIVED A NEW CUSTOM-DESIGNED RING (VS. 60% OF LUXURY BRIDES) SHE SAID

look of a white gold or platinum setting, but rose and yellow gold are both on the rise (11% and 9%, respectively)

“I received horrible service when trying to get my ring resized. They frequently missed my calls and did not return them. They told me the ring would be completed on a certain date and then it ended up taking twice as long.”

* Luxury brides and grooms are defined as those who spent spent $8,000 or more on an engagement ring.

“[I’d like] a cheat sheet of all the terms jewelers use— especially for the anatomy of the ring/diamond. In addition to terms, a quick reference guide for the scales of all the C’s.”

83% 90% BRIDES

LUXURY BRIDES

WILL RECOMMEND THE ENGAGEMENT RING RETAILER TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY

62%

of brides favor a clear diamond center stone with side stones and/or accents (vs. 68% of luxury brides)

THE MAJORITY OF GROOMS

(75%)

SPEND 1 TO 7 MONTHS PLANNING THE PROPOSAL

$246

AVERAGE SPEND ON INSURING THE RING

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) CUSTOM ENGAGEMENT RING WITH MARQUISE DIAMOND, PRICE ON REQUEST, MALAKAN DIAMOND; RING IN 18K YELLOW GOLD WITH 3.76 CT. EMERALD-CUT DIAMOND, $62,000, RAHAMINOV; CUSTOM RING IN 18K WHITE GOLD WITH DIAMONDS, $4,800 (WITHOUT CENTER STONE), SOFIA KAMAN

33%

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100

THE RETAILER

THE RINGS

52% vs. 48% WHEN SELECTING THE RETAILER, GROOMS HAD MORE INPUT THAN BRIDES

The top 3 national chains (accounting for 56% of purchases from national retailers) are Kay Jewelers, Zales, and Jared. 24% of luxury grooms who purchased at a national chain patronized Robbins Brothers, while 12% chose Tiffany & Co. (down from 35% in 2015).

61%

of brides and grooms said friends/family were most influential in choosing a local retailer.

Ability to customize the ring was a close second.

45%

OF GROOMS PURCHASED FROM A LOCAL/ INDEPENDENT JEWELER (compared with

60%

of luxury grooms) $8,627 AND 1.8 CTS.

14% of grooms purchased the ring online (up from 10% in 2011). Their rationale?

Better pricing and convenience.

Etsy, Blue Nile, and James Allen are the top 3 online retailers, while Blue Nile, with 40%, is the No. 1 retailer for luxury grooms.

AVERAGE SPEND AND AVERAGE TOTAL CARAT WEIGHT FOR ENGAGEMENT RINGS PURCHASED AT LOCAL/INDEPENDENT JEWELERS

$4,681 AND 1.5 CTS.

AVERAGE SPEND AND AVERAGE TOTAL CARAT WEIGHT FOR ENGAGEMENT RINGS PURCHASED AT NATIONAL/REGIONAL CHAINS

“[The retailer] made us an incredibly high-quality… ring within our budget.

He worked around our schedules, made the design specifically for me, and said I could change whatever I wanted whenever I wanted. He even told us the profit he was making.”

$1,223 AVERAGE SPEND ON

BRIDE’S WEDDING BAND (VS. $1,933 FOR LUXURY BRIDES)

$619 AVERAGE SPEND ON GROOM’S WEDDING BAND (VS. $1,167 FOR LUXURY GROOMS)

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ONE-OF-A-KIND CUSTOM HELEN PERMA-STACKED RING IN 18K ROSE GOLD AND PLATINUM WITH CUSTOMER’S OWN HEIRLOOM DIAMONDS, WENDY BRANDES; ANGELIQUE BAND WITH 0.07 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD, $1,990, KIRK KARA; RING IN STERLING SILVER WITH 0.024 CT. T.W. BLACK DIAMONDS AND LINE DETAIL, $1,100, TODD REED; VERA WANG LOVE 1.5 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS 14K WHITE GOLD RING, $4,699.99, JARED THE GALLERIA OF JEWELRY; LAUREL ASSCHER-CUT DIAMOND HALO ENGAGEMENT RING WITH 1.64 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS IN 18K ROSE GOLD, $8,820, VRAM

SHE SAID

REDEFINING E N G AG E D ®

T HE # 1 MOST RE L EVA N T B RA N D FO R TO DAY ’ S CO NSUM E R G A B R I E L N Y. C O M

102

47% OF GROOMS

SAPPHIRE

10%

MOISSANITE

14%

MORGANITE

42% 41%

OF BRIDES AND

AMONG THE 11% OF BRIDES

WHO FAVOR PRECIOUS STONES OTHER THAN DIAMOND, •

OF GROOMS WOULD PAY MORE FOR ETHICALLY SOURCED STONES

AMONG LUXURY BRIDES,

Among grooms who considered lab-grown diamonds:

55%

said it’s because the gems are conflict-free

49%

said it’s because the stones are a better value

38%

said it’s because they’re better for the environment • 90% OF COUPLES purchased nonmatching wedding bands

SAPPHIRE (56%) / RUBY (9%) / MORGANITE (6%) / EMERALD (6%)

• 60% OF COUPLES

$6,351 HIS AVERAGE SPEND

ON THE RING (COMPARED WITH $5,095 IN 2011).

LUXURY GROOMS SPENT AN AVERAGE OF

$14,897

purchased their bands together at the same retailer

• 66% OF COUPLES

purchased their bands at the same retailer as their engagement ring

• 24% OF COUPLES

52%

purchased a band that matched the engagement ring

OF BRIDES STILL OPT FOR ROUND DIAMONDS, WHILE PRINCESS CUTS ARE SUFFERING THE STEEPEST DECLINES (14% IN 2017 VS. 30% IN 2011).

OVAL AND CUSHION CUTS ARE ON THE RISE.

TUNGSTEN IS THE MOST POPULAR METAL FOR GROOMS

29%

• 25% OF GROOMS

considered purchasing lab-grown diamonds for the center stone of an engagement ring (up from 16% in 2015)

HE SAID

“[The retailer] was very patient…allowing her to try on every ring she wanted.

His knowledge of each ring and its capabilities for customizing were crucial.”

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) 7.41 CT. SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING IN PLATINUM, $59,467, JOSHUA J FINE JEWELRY; 18K ROSE GOLD RING WITH 2 CTS. T.W. LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS, $9,950, 18K WHITE GOLD BAND WITH 0.5 CT. T.W. LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS, $999, LOVEMONSTER BY ALTR CREATED DIAMONDS; BOHÈME LAVA DIAMOND BAND AND RING IN 18K WHITE GOLD, $1,499–$1,899 (WITHOUT CENTER STONE), JUST JULES/MARTIN FLYER; PAVÉ CATHEDRAL SPLIT-SHANK 1.22 CTS. T.W. DIAMOND RING IN PLATINUM, PRICE ON REQUEST, FOREVERMARK BY A. LINK; CAROLINE RING WITH 1.76 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS IN PLATINUM, $14,800, SINGLE STONE

20%

THE TOP 3 ARE:

AGREE IT’S IMPORTANT THAT THE DIAMOND BE GIA CERTIFIED (VS. 71% OF LUXURY GROOMS)

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Get On Their Radar Early With our wedding proposal website, How He Asked, we reach 300,000 more pre-engaged couples every month.

Sources: Sources: 2017 2017 Jewelry Jewelry and and Egagement Egagement Study Study Photos, Photos, Left Left to to Right: Right: iStock; iStock; Shay Shay Cochrane Cochrane

73%

of couples tu rn to The Knot fo r ring inspiration.

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Local Opportunities

National Opportunities

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

107

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

THE VAULT

TOP DRAWER The designer, who grew up

in Macau but currently lives in London, recently revamped her business to focus more on one-off and high-end 18k gold designs. “I sell mainly at VIP events in Asia,” she notes.

“I’m taking my brand firmly back to its roots.”

SUPER FANS The earrings were handmade

by artisans at Ho’s Italian production facility and were fashioned from 18k white gold.

Together they feature 2.77 cts. t.w. diamonds, four pieces of green jade, four ice jades (the white stones), and four conch pearls. At press time, they were available for purchase, price upon request.

MADE IN THE JADE DESIGNER SAR AH HO’S Chinese heritage inspired these exquisite, one-of-a-kind earrings. Semicircle-shape fan motifs—Ho’s starting point conceptually—were all the rage during the Ming dynasty. And Ho used two kinds of jade, Asia’s most storied native gem, in her design. “The imperial green jade and rare ice jade in these earrings are renowned for having healing properties,” she says. “And the conch pearls symbolize infinity.” An advantageous pairing by any measure.

—EMILI VESILIND

JCKONLINE.COM

MAGIC MAKERS The designer’s Italian

workshop “did an amazing job of interpreting my designs and ensuring that the earrings are not too heavy, sit correctly on the ear, and have a flowing movement,” says Ho, who credits the sheer elegance of the final piece to “a combination of traditional craftsmanship and innovative technologies.”

THE VAULT

color your forever

GOLD

HOT STOCK TIP Meira necklace in 14k gold with 0.14 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,350; Ilana Ariel; sales@ ilanaarielcollections. com; ilanaariel collections.com

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

FERTILE GROUND A recent move to Tel Aviv, Israel, prompted former New Yorker Ilana Ariel Sarna, founder and owner of Ilana Ariel jewelry, to create a collection inspired by the city’s abundance of graphic Mediterranean tile work.

Grounded—a series of curvilinear rings, necklaces, and earrings—celebrates the city’s “aesthetic imperfections, vibrant hues, and classic Mediterranean atmosphere,” says Sarna, who reveals that the collection’s name is a reference to her personal process of getting comfortable in a new city. Standout pieces include the Aziza earrings, which boast asymmetrical teardrop shapes, and the accessibly priced Meira necklace, which features a tilelike gold pendant with rounded cutouts and a chic row of diminutive diamonds. —EMILI VESILIND

MODERN LOVE Midcentury modern design, with

its spare lines and softly sloping curves, is firmly back in the style spotlight. And its aesthetics were the chief inspiration for privatelabel company Artistry Ltd.’s firstever branded collection, Graymoor Lane Designs. Graymoor’s 14k gold Juniper bracelet puts a fresh spin on era-specific hallmarks. But its superb craftsmanship, rounded forms, and serpentine lines are delightfully derivative. —EV

Aziza earrings in 14k yellow gold with pink sapphires and 0.8 ct. t.w. diamonds; $17,520

Juniper bracelet in 14k gold with diamonds; $1,095; graymoorlanedesigns.com Adina earrings in 14k yellow gold with 1 ct. t.w. diamonds; $8,400

#addmorecolortoyourlife

JEWELRY EXHIBIT BREAKS THE SOUND BARRIER! SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE.

Proudly made in the USA Since 1951

THE VAULT

WATCHES

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

CUSTOM AGENT

The “breakaway” concept behind the Christian Paul fashion watch brand that Timothy Caruana founded in Australia two years ago has a dual meaning: “The watch breaks apart”—into a case, strap, and buckle that customers can choose separately—“and it’s about breaking away from the norm,” Caruana explains.

“What looks like 30 watches can make 500.” The collection, which debuted to the American market at JCK Las Vegas in June, is designed to answer customers’ increasing calls for personalization. Add in Christian Paul’s cool, minimalist aesthetic, and the quartz timepieces— which range in retail price from $139 to $195—are guaranteed to be millennial magnets.

Raw Collection watch in 43 mm silver-tone case with white enamel dial and detachable leather band; $139; Christian Paul; 718-784-0700; christianpaul.com

Luxe Collection watch in 35 mm rose gold–tone case and dial with Austrian crystal indexes, shown with detachable leather band; $179

—VICTORIA GOMELSKY

PRICE GUYS What do you get when you combine Italian

design with Swiss watchmaking? If your first thought was something expensive, think again. The Quantum “mechani-quartz” chronograph from DeNovo, a new watch brand designed in Pesaro, Italy, by the artist and goldsmith Giacomo Soriani, is a serious contender in the affordable luxury segment.

“Our main challenge was to keep the target price without any compromise in quality or the look and feel of the final product,” says Yanir Gvirtzman, DeNovo’s U.S. distributor. “It took three years to find the right materials, the right suppliers, and the right combination to reach our goal.” Cha-ching! —VG

World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry

516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com

WATCHES THAT GOT FACE TIME IN SUMMER MOVIES! SEE jckonline.com/topics/watches FOR THAT AND MORE.

HOT STOCK TIP

Quantum mechaniquartz chronograph in 46 mm gunmetal PVD case on engraved rubber strap; $1,275; denovoswiss.com JCKONLINE.COM

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J W M A R R I O T T T U C S O N S TA R R P A S S R E S O R T & S P A

J C K T U C S O N I S A C U R AT E D D E S T I N AT I O N O F F I N I S H E D J E W E L R Y, T E C H N O LO G Y A N D LO O S E GEMSTONES FROM THE FINEST VENDORS AND SUPPLIERS. SURROUNDED BY PICTURESQUE N AT U R A L B E A U T Y, T H I S I S T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y ’ S I N T I M AT E W I N T E R O A S I S O F F E R I N G A RELAXING YET PRODUCTIVE, EXPERIENTIAL ENVIRONMENT FOR BUSINESS AND NETWORKING. OPEN TO ALL QUALIFIED JEWELRY PROFESSIONALS.

R E G I ST R AT I O N I S N OW O P E N ! F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N , V I S I T : J C K O N L I N E .C O M /T U C S O N I NT E R E ST E D I N E X H I B I T I N G ? C O NTA C T A L E X A N D R A W U R ST E R AT AW U R ST E R @ R E E DJ E W E L RYG R O U P.C O M

A ST ORY T OL D CR E ATE S A DI A MON D S OL D. Every diamond has a story. Telling a compelling one is key to driving sales and creating happy customers. That’s why AGS Laboratories offers Only My Diamond ™, an engaging online tool that brings the unique characteristics of your diamond to life in a visual, easy-to-understand format.

In turn, Only My Diamond ™ gives your customer the ability to share their diamond’s story with family and friends.

Suppliers and retailers: Experience a revolution in selling.

Go online for your free demo—and for information on other valuable services, such as our popular diamond grading report for mounted goods.

Contact support@agslab.com or call 877.FOR.0CUT (877.367.0288) to learn more.

agslab.com/onlymydiamond

113

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

SHOW BIZ

F

GOING COASTAL From Oct. 8 to 11, JIS Miami offers the industry’s brightest buying opportunity

OR JEWELERS LOOKING to season their business with a little pleasure, the Jewelers International Showcase in Miami is an easy sell. The show, which returns to the Miami Beach Convention Center this fall with a new date pattern—Sunday, Oct. 8, to Wednesday, Oct. 11—is the ideal staging ground for a few days of productive fun in the sun.

“It’s a sold-out show—we’re wallto-wall in this space,” says JIS industry vice president Jordan Tuchband of the venue, which is in the midst of a

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

$600 million renovation. “They split the building in half and are renovating one side at a time, and we’re on the newer side. It looks killer.”

JIS October enjoys a strong reputation among exhibitors and buyers—about half of whom hail from the U.S., with a quarter coming from the Caribbean, and another quarter from Latin America—for its location, timing, and wide jewelry selection.

“You have everything from ultrahigh-end to silver and fashion,” Tuchband says, singling out the Galleria JCKONLINE.COM

pavilion for its concentration of highend brands, including Siera, Natalie K, Neon Gems, and Shy Creation.

Attendees who flock to JIS to see exhibitors that offer cash-and-carry opportunities may be surprised to learn that not everyone at the show allows for immediate delivery—particularly not exhibitors in the Italian pavilion or Plumb Club, both of which are returning to the show this fall.

“Forty percent or more of the show does not do immediate delivery— that’s not their model,” Tuchband says. “If you’re a retailer from Bogotá or Mexico City, you’re not going to fly back with a suitcase of gold jewelry.

But the cash-and-carry that does happen at the show is significant.”

All of these factors have helped make JIS October a hot ticket. “We anticipate one hell of a turnout,” Tuchband says. “Retailers are hedging their bets to be a little closer to the season, and JIS October is by far the best show domestically so close to the season.”

Bangles in 18k gold with 1.78–2.79 cts. t.w. diamonds; $10,000–$16,500; Nigaam; sales@ nigaam.com; nigaam.com

SHOW BIZ

BEST IN SHOW

INDIAN SUMMER At July’s IIJS, the government’s tough new demonetization scheme was good for business

I

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

CALLING ALL JEWELRY MANUFACTURERS & DESIGNERS! Enter by November 17

NEW + IMPROVED FOR 2018! / Streamlined online-only entry / Increased marketing support for entrants / Timeline moved to allow more integration

and visibility for winners and finalists at JCK Las Vegas

DATES 9.1.17 – 9.14.17 Early-bird discounted entry

9.15.17 – 11.17.17 Entry period

12.15.17 – 2.23.18 Voting

ENTER TODAY AT JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017 All entries must be received by November 17, 2017.

Spin the Twin ring with 7.56 ct. triangular ruby, 3.74 cts. t.w. brilliantcut diamonds, and champlevé-style enamel in 18k gold; price on request; Masterstrokes by Jewels Emporium; 800-103-1841; jewelsemporium.com

N A SURPRISE move last November, India’s prime minister, Narendra Modi, revoked 500- and 1,000-rupee bank notes in an effort to bring the country’s black market to its knees.

The government also imposed a goods and services tax, which took effect in June, to replace a slew of indirect tax laws. Traditionally, Indians made their jewelry purchases in cash. Now, however, consumers are being forced to make every purchase transparent.

Initially, jewelry business owners worried that these changes would bring fear and apprehension to buyers headed to the 34th annual India International Jewellery Show (IIJS), held July 27–31 in Mumbai. But exactly the opposite occurred. “People thought that it would backfire, but it hasn’t,” says Swaroop Biswas, marketing manager of Kiran Gems, one of the world’s largest exporters of diamonds.

In years past, buyers would hit the show’s gold section first before heading to the diamond section to place their orders. This year, diamond exhibitors were busy from day one, with many passersby reporting they overheard negotiations and buying. “Not a single person has complained about the last two events,” says Biswas.

Praveenshankar Pandya, chairman of the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), the show’s organizer, agreed, adding that foot traffic was much higher this year than it was last year. “My exhibitors and customers are quite happy,” he says.

Meanwhile, the GJEPC and IIJS have formed an International Diamond Monitoring Committee Initiative composed of 12 countries in order to crack down on undisclosed synthetic diamonds. GJEPC is subsidizing the cost of machines for India’s diamond purveyors to help ferret out nonnatural stones. “Synthetic will have to go its own way,” says Pandya. “It cannot go on the back of the natural diamonds market, which has taken 40 to 50 years to reach what it is today.”

Elsewhere at the show, India’s craftsmanship was on full display, from ancient techniques found in traditional polki jewelry to modern 3-D printing and exquisite enamelwork. The GJEPC is extensively lobbying the industry to support artisanal makers and foresees a whopping 45 percent increase in handcrafted jewelry exports within five years, soaring from $43 billion this year to $60 billion in 2022. Just imagine all those rupees.

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N E W O P E N I N G DAY !

S U N DAY, O C TO B E R 8 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; W E D N E S DAY, O C TO B E R 1 1 , 2 01 7 MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER | MIAMI BEACH, FL J I S re t u r n s to M i a m i B e a c h fo r i t s f i r st s h ow i n t h e n ew l y re m o d e l e d & u p g ra d e d M i a m i B e a c h C o nve n t i o n C e n t e r . J o i n u s i n t h e n ew ve n u e f o r t h e 2 n d l a rg e s t j ewe l r y s h ow i n t h e We s te r n H e m i s p h e re & t h e l a rg e s t J I S eve n t o f t h e ye a r !

R E G I ST E R TO DAY AT JI SSH OW.CO M /O CTOB E R Contact JIS directly at +1 (800) 840-5612 or at jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com

S TAY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S S H O W

Show Information: AGTA.org/tradeshows

AGTA Office: 800.972.1162 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; info@agta.org

#AGTAGemFair18

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME link in our bio to watch the rest of the clip’—which truly means, ‘We didn’t optimize this video for Instagram.’ ”

ENGAGING EDUCATION

FOLLOW UP

EVA-KATALIN/GETTY

I

Build your social standing with these insider tips

BY EMILI VESILIND

N SOCIAL MEDIA’S early days— back when brands first began getting serious about building their followings—the thinking went like this: Avid social media users were eager to follow brands solely for the purpose of aligning themselves with that brand’s identity. Essentially, if you cultivated an exclusive-feeling brand via a series of ultraslick posts, followers would flock.

Maybe that tactic worked for a time.

But the recent Millennial Shopping Report, published by popular coupon website CouponFollow, found that consumers no longer follow companies simply to join their branded tribe.

Just 7 percent of the 1,000-plus

How-to posts that show users how to style a piece of jewelry, for example, incentivize users to join the social party because “they want to know exactly how they’d use your product or service,” says Carlyle. “Brands that make customers feel as if they are missing out on all the fun by not having something are always [tempting] to follow.”

“Sharing the process of everyday business life makes users feel connected.”

millennial-age respondents said they follow brands to “participate in an online community.”

By contrast, a whopping 79 percent said they follow to find deals and save money.

But if deals and discounts were the only motivators, Tiffany & Co. and Red Bull— just two big brands that don’t discount—wouldn’t have Instagram followers in the multimillions.

What other factors tempt users to hit the “Follow” button? We asked Warren K. Carlyle IV, a social media strategist who specializes in helping brands grow their following on Instagram, to share some key insights.

NATIVE CONTENT Content that’s native to any given site will always attract more followers. So if you post a video, be sure it’s the right slice of video for the platform—in looks, length, and tone. Carlyle says he’s never surprised to see brands falter when they pull their content from other sites: “They’ll write in a post, ‘Click the JCKONLINE.COM

INSIDE INFORMATION

Social users also generally love behind-the-scenes —Warren K. Carlyle IV content, he says, because “sharing the process of everyday business life makes them feel connected.” That connection, forged through the process of curating and posting unique insider content, can lead to heightened brand recognition and user engagement.

STRATEGIC REPOSTS Reposting content that looks great and raves about your products is always good business, says Carlyle, adding that the practice not only helps build a following but also adds to your reputation. “Over 70 percent of customers trust customer testimonials over professionally written content,” he says.

“People want social proof that others are benefiting before they purchase.”

TOOL TIME

THE GOODS

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

FOSSIL Q VENTURE Fossil’s ambitious goal for 2017, which it publicly announced in March, is to debut at least 300 hybrid and touch screen– connected styles by Dec. 31. Its wearable releases for splashy fashion brands including Emporio Armani, Michael Kors, and Kate Spade typically get the most press. But some of the company’s best-built devices have been developed for its in-house label. Among those is a new touch-screen smartwatch, the Q Venture, which combines the functionality of a notifier, an activity tracker, and an oldschool digital watch. —EV What We Liked: The Q Venture comes in a few color combos, but we especially like the design impact of the “gold and sparkle” model, which marries the chunkiness of a men’s watch with the glamour of a dressy timepiece.

Through the Fossil app its face is customizable—options range from high-tech to analog.

What We Didn’t Like: The life span of any touch-screen device, including phones, is inherently limited—hence, the Q Venture’s $295 price tag feels (just a tad) hefty.

Best Features: The watch comes with a few basic features that, together, make it significantly more useful. Can’t find your keys or wallet in the dark? It has a built-in LED flashlight. Wondering what the local time in Berlin is?

The Q Venture toggles easily between multiple time zones. ($295; fossil.com)

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

IMPRESSART CUSTOM STAMPS The popularity of stamped jewelry certainly isn’t fading. But many jewelry lovers, having already purchased initial pendants, are primed for even more personalized motifs. That’s where ImpressArt comes in. The online business creates custom stamps—converting tiny original artworks into hyper-detailed, hardened steel jewelry tools. Customers submit artwork at impressart.com, where it’s reviewed by an expert; the bigger the stamp, the more intricate your design can be. ImpressArt sends back a final proof of the design two business days later, then creates and ships the stamp in two to three business days. (Starting at $50; impressart.com) —EV

ALL ABOUT MYNDAR’S “SMART TAG” TECHNOLOGY! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

ImpressArt’s hardened steel stamps come in five sizes: 3 mm, 4 mm, 6 mm, 9.5 mm, and 12 mm.

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An American Wedding Deserves An American Made Band TM

www.hooverandstrong.com 800-759-9997

TOOL TIME

REPAIRS Timepiece specialists Dan Gendron (below) and his son Jesse Gendron

Q&A

THE WATCH MAN COMETH DAN GENDRON, a retired watch repair specialist based in Colorado Springs, Colo., comes from a stunningly long line of watch repair specialists—the men in his family have been rebuilding and resuscitating timepieces for nine consecutive generations. Gendron’s son Jesse recently took over his business, Colorado Timeworks (timeworks.biz). But Dan and his wife, Sheila, are still writing books—the latest: a 575-page book titled Time to Make Money With Watch Repairs—and producing an ongoing series of videos on subjects pertaining to watch repair. —EMILI VESILIND

A Gendron’s Special, a pocket watch built by George Gendron, one of Dan and Jesse’s forefathers, several generations ago JCKONLINE.COM

Made in the USA

What would you say has been your most indispensable tool as a watch repair specialist?

My loupe was the most valuable tool. If you can’t see something, you can’t fix it. When I used to teach watch repair classes, the hardest thing to get people to do was to look—really look. You wouldn’t grade a diamond at arm’s length.

What was the oldest watch you ever worked on?

A type of watch called a fusee that was from the late 1600s. They made them up through the 1800s. They were based on the designs of Leonardo da Vinci. I had to clean it and put a mainspring in it. We got the watch the way we get a lot of old watches—in parts inside a tin box, because a jeweler had worked on it and given up.

What are the most complicated watches to work on?

Anything antique requires a really deft hand.

And parts are the problem. We’ve been saving parts for watches for three generations now, but we still run into stuff we don’t have. EBay is a really good resource for that.

Is there any watch you and Jesse can’t fix?

I haven’t run into that much. When we don’t fix something, it’s more of an economic thing than a skill thing. An example would be a really old ladies’ Bulova watch that has no parts for it anywhere. You’d have to make the watch parts, and that’s expensive. We do encounter that from time to time—someone says, “Damn the torpedoes, we don’t care about the price.” When you’re selling repairs, you’re not selling what you do. In most cases you’re selling memories. Jewelers far too often make a judgment call about a piece.

They’ll say, “Oh, that’s a piece of crap not worth fixing.” But the real value of a watch has nothing to do with the intrinsic value.

JIS-Miami October Booth #2421 Toll Free: 888-430-4344 Mailgpanther@aol.com www.gpanther.com

2018 SAVE the DATE JIS (Jewelers International Showcase) connects the jewelry industry at four impressive trade events each year. Produced in both South Florida and Las Vegas, Nevada, JIS Shows are the premier jewelry events to explore new trends, find new suppliers, and network with industry professionals. The three Florida-based events take place in January, April, and October to support the retail selling seasons with a diverse product selection; offered through both immediate at-show delivery and order writing. In June, JIS becomes Las Vegas Jewelry Week’s premier event dedicated to at-show delivery with JIS Exchange (in partnership with JCK Las Vegas and co-located at Mandalay Bay for 2018).

JIS APRIL

JIS JANUARY THE ORIGINAL

THE NICHE

JANUARY 20-22, 2018

APRIL 14-16, 2018

NEW LOCATION! DOUBLETREE BY

MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER

HILTON MIAMI AIRPORT HOTEL +

MIAMI BEACH, FL

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JIS April 2018 is an intimate jewelry affair,

JIS January 2018 is the LARGEST trade show in

perfectly timed for Mother’s Day, Father’s Day,

the industry before Valentine’s Day and the 2nd

and Wedding season.

largest JIS event of the year.

JIS EXCHANGE

JIS OCTOBER

THE PREMIER

THE LARGEST

JUNE 1-4, 2018

DATES & LOCATION COMING SOON

NEW LOCATION! MANDALAY BAY RESPORT + CASINO | LAS VEGAS, NV

JIS October 2018 is the second LARGEST jewelry trade show in the Americas and the

Your premier destination and #1 source for immediate at-show delivery during Las Vegas

largest, most diverse JIS Show of the year with array of specialty and international

Jewelry Week.

pavilions.

GET THE MOST UP TO DATE SHOW INFORMATION AT:

J I S S H O W. C O M Contact JIS directly at 1-800-840-5612 or at jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com

S T AY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S S H O W

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Thorsten Jewelry 444 Ocean Blvd., Suite 800 Long Beach, CA, 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings.com Website: thorstenrings.com

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Ovadia Corp.

101 E. Main St. Little Falls, NJ 07424 Tel: 973-256-9200 Email: sales@ovadia.com Website: ovadia.com

Thorsten is a bold, innovative American designer jewelry brand that focuses on alternative metal rings for men and women. Paying homage to Thor, the Norse god associated with thunder, lightning, and strength, our alternative metal rings are made from the strongest materials used in the jewelry industry: tungsten, cobalt chrome, titanium, and ceramic.

Ovadia’s Gemini is a new display system for understock, showcase and travel. Each Gemini tray has two removable inserts - one for display and another for storing jewelry. Inserts can also act as stand-alone displays. Pieces shown are petite size, weighing 145 grams each (larger sizes available).

Stuller Inc.

Shy Creation

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

650 S. Hill St., Suite 428 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com

Stuller has the industry’s largest selection of precious metal bands— classic, anniversary, and eternity—in stock and ready to personalize.

Browse now at stuller.com/weddingbands.

Kate collection diamond and gold stackable bangles from Shy Creation. Made ideal for layering and creating any combo for the perfect stack. Visit us at JA New York to view the entire collection! Booth 1122

Martin Flyer Sterling Reputation 10116 W. Oakland Park Blvd.

Sunrise, FL 33351 Tel: 954-578-1880 Fax: 954-578-1414 Luxurious 0.925 sterling silver with a rhodium finish. These two styles are part of our Color collection. Stones are CZ, and both styles retail for less than $99 each.

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70 W. 36th St. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 800-223-0330 Fax: 212-768-0124 Email: sales@martinflyer.com Website: martinflyer.com/boheme-intro Bohème, a nontraditional upscale bridal collection inspired by natural elements of the earth, is the joint creative venture between designer Julie Romanenko of Just Jules fame and Martin Flyer CEO Joshua Kaufman.

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Belle Étoile 5901 Christie Ave, Suite 501 Emeryville, CA 94608 Tel: 415-626-9223 Fax: 415-373-9484 Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Discover Belle Étoile, award-winning designer jewelry brand.

French for “beautiful star,” Belle Étoile offers exquisite design and exciting programs to help drive traffic and increase sales in your store. Call us today to learn more.

Beverley K

CrownRing Montreal Tel: 866-214-7464 Email: info@crownring.com Website: crownring.com CrownRing Bridal House is a name that has come to represent excellence in bridal jewelry. Under this label rest four defining brands: CrownRing, Carlex, Torque, and Noam Carver. CrownRing and its divisions continue to lead the pace by creating award-winning and captivating jewelry.

Rembrandt Charms

7777 Alvarado Road, Suite 719 La Mesa, CA 91942 Tel: 619-465-4789 Email: info@beverleyk.com Website: beverleyk.com

370 S. Youngs Road Williamsville, NY 14221 Tel: 800-828-7840 Fax: 800-828-7811 Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Website: rembrandtcharms.com

Beverley K offers stunning Art Deco, vintage, floral, and band jewelry designs. The brand has received numerous awards and is renowned for its meticulous details, French-cut colored stones, and old-world craftsmanship. Discover Beverley K.

Our Business Building Charm Program is the best in the industry!

By offering Rembrandt Charms, you’ll learn your customers’ most cherished stories and will cultivate generations of loyal, lasting relationships. Their repeat business is assured!

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group

Lashbrook

24 Jewelers Park Dr. Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com Businesses like yours have trusted Jewelers Mutual for support since 1913. Contact us to learn how we can help you become safer, more secure, and more successful.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

131 E. 13065 S. Draper, UT 84020 Tel: 888-252-7388 Fax: 801-352-7236 Email: marketing@lashbrookdesigns.com Website: lashbrookdesigns.com Today’s customers expect more. We love that!

At Lashbrook, we create custom and award-winning styles using precious and alternative metals, stones, and other exotic materials. Now you can give your customers exactly what they want.

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SWJ/Southwest Jewel 3500 Bluebonnet Circle Fort Worth, TX 76109 Tel: 214-522-8300/800-797-9477 Email: swjswiss@sbcglobal.net Website: southwestjewel.com SWJ is a family-owned, full-service Swiss watch wholesale company serving the trade for 38 years. We offer over 20 Swiss brands, specializing in pre-owned Rolex. We also offer diamond accessories and dial refinishing for the Rolex, with all work completed by our Master watchmakers. Watches have a two-year warranty.

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Arch Crown Inc. 460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: orders@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Let the recipient know where the gift came from with custom tags and labels. Once out of the store, Arch Crown tags and labels act as your most cost-effective advertising medium. Visit JIS Booth 1629.

Hoover & Strong Dabakarov 62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.

10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com Hoover & Strong has a brand-new catalog! Over 500 new bands including classic, fancy, two-tone, multi-toned, and diamond band styles! All made in America with Harmony recycled precious metals!

Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our new products.

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc.

JYE Luxury Collection

10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com

101 Utah St., Suite 101 San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-621-8880/866-633-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com

Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.

JYEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stones are meticulously selected before the design process begins. Taking their character and nature into account, our artists form a design around the stones, ensuring each piece performs at its best and brightest.

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Sophia by Design

Artistry Ltd.

457 Haddonfield Road, Suite 420 Cherry Hill, NJ 08002 Tel: 215-629-0260 Fax: 215-629-0513 Email: sales@sophiabydesign.com Website: sophiabydesign.com

8272 N. Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com

Dazzle wherever you go with the Monaco collection. A flexible 18k gold spiral bangle with brilliant diamonds. See the whole collection at sophiabydesign.com

Pear-shape halo necklace in 14k white gold with 0.36 ct. t.w. diamonds and 5.16 ct. aquamarine. Ring in 14k white gold with 0.28 ct. t.w. diamonds and 2.76 ct. aquamarine. MSRP: necklace, $2,695; ring, $1,620

Rahaminov Diamonds

Stuller Inc.

606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

Rahaminov Diamonds’ newest eternity bar band with 3 ct. t.w. round white diamonds. Available in 18k white, yellow, or rose gold.

Large diamonds, consistent melee, or special services—no matter the need, Stuller is your go-to diamond supplier. Selection and speed are just a click or call away at stuller.com/diamonds or 800-877-7777.

Ashi Diamonds 18 E. 48th St., 14th Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-319-8291 Fax: 212-319-4341 Email: kalyani@ashidiamonds.com Website: ashidiamonds.com ASHI Diamonds is thrilled to announce the launch of the 2017 Holiday Wish Book. This year, ASHI has included exclusive jewelry from its Couture line and the newest additions from its Lovebright and I DO Bridal collections, as well as the hottest and latest trends in fashion jewelry. For more info, call 800-622-2744 or visit ashidiamonds.com.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

Christopher Designs 50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@crisscut.com Website: christopherdesigns.com Christopher Designs impeccably blends old-world luxury and style with modern technology to create exclusive designs that include our patented Crisscut® and L’Amour Crisscut diamonds. When placed side by side with our competition, the difference is truly clear.

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americas Gold americas Diamonds 650 S. Hill St., Suite 224 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-688-4904 Fax: 213-688-1504 Email: info@americasgold.com Website: americasgold.com One of the most popular and best-selling in men’s jewelry. 14k yellow gold Miami Cuban link necklace with 5.50 cts. t.w. diamonds.

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Allison-Kaufman Co. 7640 Haskell Ave. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Tel: 818-373-5100/800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150 Email: info@allisonkaufman.com Website: allisonkaufman.com Be the height of fashion in this stunning ring from Allison Kaufman’s Apex Series. 0.20 cts. t.w. of dazzling diamonds set in 14k white gold interlocked with a high polished solid gold band available in white and rose gold, white and yellow gold, or all white gold.

G Panther 635 S. Hill St., Suite 801 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-627-5447 Fax: 213-614-8654 Email: mailgpanther@aol.com Website: gpanther.com G Panther offers exquisitely designed jewelry and top-quality manufacturing for every occasion. See our vast collection of fine jewelry, including our unique men’s collection. JIS Miami October Booth 2421

Dabakarov 62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.

Gabriel & Co. 545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: mjgonzalez@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com A delicate arc of gold balls, a radiant mini-cluster of diamonds, a chain of perfect gold circles: This is how Gabriel interprets bujukan, the Balinese act of persuasion, achieved by a subtle wink, a gentle touch, that one perfect word spoken in a whisper.

(BG4114Y45JJ, BG4123Y45JJ, BG4124Y45JJ)

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Costar Imports Inc. Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 888-726-7827 Email: Info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com R12493 – Vintage halo setting holds 6 mm x 8 mm oval Ring – 0.40 ct. t.w., $1,950 Band – 0.25 ct. t.w., $1,200 Morganite version – 0.40 ct. t.w. and 1.40 ct. MO, $2,250

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TraxSALES

Gabriel & Co.

6830 N. Eldridge Parkway #302 Houston, TX 77041 Tel: 888-534-1253/713-466-7177 Email: dave@traxsales.com Website: traxsales.com

545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: mjgonzalez@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com

Introducing the TraxSALES visual proof customer traffic counter that synchronizes with the Edge POS. When you learn your true conversion ratios, you are guaranteed improvement in your company. Call 713466-7177 or visit traxsales.com for more.

Gabriel & Co.’s strands of crisscrossing pavé diamonds form the extraordinary band of this modern three-stone engagement ring.

Sparkling round-cut diamond side stones are nestled securely at the juncture. (ER13677R6W84JJ)

Gold Craft Jewelry Corp.

640 S. Hill St., Suite 650 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8673 Fax: 213-623-4673 Email: gc.mfa@att.net Exquisite 14k gold frames for coins. Frames for Credit Suisse, American eagle, peso, Canadian maple, and more. Frames in plain and rope are designed to fit all size coins. Teardrop frame comes in 1/10 ounce, 1/4 ounce, 1/2 ounce, and 1 ounce.

Rahaminov Diamonds 606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com Rahaminov Diamonds’ elegant three-stone emerald-cut halo ring set in 18k white gold.

Midas Chain 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Website: phillipgavriel.com

50 McDermott Place Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com

The Popcorn collection features handcrafted pieces in silver, 18k gold, and precious gems. These cuff bracelets are made with cushion-cut genuine gemstones and diamonds in Italy. There is something for everyone. MSRP: $99–$800

All the pieces in the 14k yellow gold Hawley Street Diamond collection have adjustable chains that make them both beautiful and versatile. This unique collection has an array of designs that your customers will adore. MSRP: $1,194.00

Phillip Gavriel

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

129

RDI Diamonds Inc. 2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again! You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100 percent Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.

Earstuds USA 5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 Email: david@earstudsusa.com Website: earstudsusa.com This stunning, stylish rose gold diamond tennis bracelet has 19.1 cts. t.w. G-H color and 51 clarity diamonds.

Le Vian® Website: effyjewelry.com

Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com

Rosé, all day. Effy Jewelry’s matte-finished ring rides the rose-hued wave, with a dreamy blend of soft 14k rose gold and dazzling pavé-set diamonds. MSRP: $2,228

Le Vian announced Denim as the 2018 Fall Color of the Year!

Discover the latest styles with Ceylon Sapphire™, the 2018 Gem of the Year, featured in this 14k Vanilla Gold® ring accented with Vanilla Diamonds®.

Effy Jewelry

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. JWL Email: info@jwl.com Website: jwl.com JWL Coin—the digital currency for the jewelry industry

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631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2017

ADVERTISING

INDEX

130

AGS Laboratories pg. 112 Website: agslab.com AGTA pg. 95, 116 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alex Velvet pg. 130 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Allison Kaufman Company pg. 59 Website: allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908 American Grown Diamonds pg. 23 Website: americangrown diamonds.com Email: info@ americangrowndiamonds.com Phone: 212-575-3057

Artistry Ltd. pg. 24 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250

Earstuds USA pg. 109 Website: earstudsusa.com Email: sales@earstudsusa.com Toll-Free: 866-327-7883

Hoover & Strong pg. 119 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Ashi Diamonds pg. 11 Website: ashidiamonds.com Email: info@ashidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-622-ASHI

Effy pg. 19 Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY

Intuitions by Royal Chain pg. 39 Website: intuitionsjewelry.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960

Belle Ă&#x2030;toile pg. 61 Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Email: sales@ belleetoilejewelry.com Toll-Free: 877-838-6728

Future Designs Lighting pg. 36 Website: futuredesigns.us Email: futuredesigns1@ hotmail.com Toll-Free: 800-326-4256

JCK Events pg. 6-7, 111, 115, 122 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626

Beverley K pg. 29 Website: beverleyk.com Email: info@beverleyk.com Phone: 619-465-4789

G Panther pg. 121 Email: mailgpanther@aol.com Toll-Free: 888-430-4344

Christopher Designs pg. 63 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970

Gabriel & Co. pg. 65, 101 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400

Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 85 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 115, 122 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612

Costar Imports pg. 28 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR

GebrĂźder Schaffrath GmbH pg. 15 Website: www.schaffrath1923.com Email: mail@schaffrath1923.com Phone: 0049-6181673060

AndrĂŠa Candela pg. 43 Website: andreacandela.com Toll-Free: 888-314-5998

CrownRing pg. 45 Website: crownring.com Email: info@crownring.com Toll-Free: 866-214-7464

GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Toll-Free: 800-421-7250

JWL pg. 51 Website: JWL.com Email: info@jwl.com Phone: 866-545-9871

Angelica by Royal Chain p. 41 Website: angelicacollection.com Phone: 800-622-0690

Dabakarov pg. 2-3 Website: dabakarov.com Email: info@dabakarov.com Phone: 212-730-1888

Henrich & Denzel pg. 14 Website: henrich-denzel.com Email: info@henrich-denzel.de Phone: +49 7732 9492 0

Jyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International pg. 66 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880

americas Gold | americas Diamonds pg. 31 Website: americasgold.com Email: info@americasgold.com Toll-Free: 800-621-3618

JĂśrg Heinz pg. 13 Website: joergheinz.com

Fine Jewelry Displays

Kimberly Collins Colored Gems pg. 108 Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com Email: kim@ kimberlycollinsgems.com Phone: 512-661-8778 Lashbrook pg. 103 Website: lashbrookdesigns.com/ damascus Toll-Free: 888-252-7388 Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Lighting 4 Diamonds pg. 120 Website: lighting4diamonds.com Email: info@ lighting4diamonds.com Toll-Free: 855-326-6645 Martin Flyer pg. 99 Website: martinflyer.com Email: info@martinflyer.com Phone: 212-840-8899 Midas pg. 25 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 48 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Ovadia Corporation pg. 30 Website: ovadia.com Email: sales@ovadia.com Phone: 973-256-9200 Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 9 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113

Royal Chain Group pg. 33, 37, 39, 41 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Salesone LLC pg. 52 Website: salesone.org Email: sales@salesone.org Toll-Free: 866-507-2537 Shy Creation Inc. pg. 21 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 Sophia by Design pg. 53 Website: sophiabydesign.com Email: sales@sophiabydesign.com Toll-Free: 888-SNI-JEWELS Sterling Reputation pg. 106 Website: sterlingreputation.com Email: info@ sterlingreputation.com Phone: 954-578-1880 Stuller Inc. pg. 56, 88 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Tasha R pg. 4-5 Website: tashar.com Email: info@tashar.com Toll-Free: 888-999-1597 The Knot pg. 104-105 Website: theknot.com Email: localsales@theknot.com Phone: 888-843-4983 or 917-386-2636 Thorsten Jewelry pg. 26 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com TraxSALES.com pg. 34 Email: Dave@TraxSALES.com Toll-Free: 888-534-1253

Rand & Paseka pg. 110 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006

Umicore pg. 118 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060

RDI Diamonds pg. 94, Back Cover Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768

Wilkerson pg. 27 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999

Rembrandt Charms pg. 42, 47 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@ rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 ,,,- >Z`e^ Kh\d ;eo]' Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com JUNE 2017

Copyright Š2017 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 148 No. 6 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/ February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.

This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

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CLASSIFIEDS CAREER OPPORTUNITIES JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com Heritage Appraisers Inc. is seeking experienced, professional Independent Jewelry Appraisers to work as sub-contractors. Several territories available: Texas, Idaho, Utah, Illinois, Minnesota, and Northern New York. Other territories may come available. Appraiser must have a Graduate Gemologist degree (GIA preferred or FGA International School of Gemology). You must also be a member of a professional, national jewelry appraisal organization (NAJA preferred). If you have a pleasant personality, are well-organized, and have an ability to work independently in a fastpaced environment, contact us today! Some travel required. Please email resume to: llott@heritage-appraisers.com

SCHOOLS & EDUCATION JEWELRY CLASSES t 8BY .PEFMJOH t $BTUJOH .PME .BLJOH t #FBE 1FBSM 4USJOHJOH t %JBNPOE 4FUUJOH t 3FOEFSJOH %FTJHO t +FXFMSZ 3FQBJS -POH BOE 4IPSU 5FSN $PVSTFT EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. &BTU 4USFFU 1BSL .BEJTPO /FX :PSL /: $BMM XXX TUVEJPKFXFMFSTMUE DPN

456%*0 +&8&-&34 -5%

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131

REPS WANTED

SERVICES TO TRADE

INDEPENDENT REPS WANTED

Custom Colored Gem Cutting American style precision cutting or gem repairs.

Gems of the Hill Country

30+ year Direct Manufacturer of high-demand Gold, silver and diamond Jewelry seeking experienced Reps with a following.

Excellent commission.

Must have established customer base.

1RQFRQĂ LFWLQJ OLQHV RND\ Major Trade Show Presence.

Resume to: independantreps@JCKonline.com

Dynamic Jewelry Manufacturer with 40 years in WKH LQGXVWU\ LV VHHNLQJ ZHOO TXDOLĂ&#x20AC;HG VDOHV SHRSOH in several territories. We are a full spectrum color line. With a proven track record of quality, price and VHUYLFH :H RIIHU WRS SURGXFWV DQG Ă H[LEOH GDWLQJ And draw available. Please submit your resumes to AlliedCreations@sbcglobal.net or call 213-670-0060.

830-367-3368 gemologist@texas-topaz.com

JEWELRY MODELS For solitaire, engagement, wedding sets, anniversary, 3-stone, eternity rings, and pendants Exclusively made in Los Angeles, USA (213) 479-8019 www.JewelryRubberMolds.com

Belle Ă&#x2030;toile, award-winning designer brand, is looking for independent sales reps for multiple territories, including W TOLA. Please email rĂŠsumĂŠs to Bryce at careers@belleetoilejewelry.com.

INVISIBLE EXPERTS! 'XQNLQ¡V 'LDPRQGV /RFDWLRQV LQ 2KLR DQG Southwest Florida â&#x20AC;&#x201C; SALES AND MANAGEMENT SUPERSTARS ONLY earn $50K - $150K Sales and management positions at a fun and fast growing company, we are a guild jewelry company who offers expert attention to our customers.

Think outside the box. If you are the best come on board, earn from $50K to $150K. If you are fantastic, earn $150K+.

INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR â&#x20AC;˘ SIZING â&#x20AC;˘ REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES â&#x20AC;˘ LASER WELDING

We Have The Answer to Your Problems! www.invisibleexperts.com SIGNATURE JEWELRY INC.

1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026

617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014

WATCHES & WATCH WORK

Email resume to hr@dunkins.net

EXPERIENCED JEWELRY SALES REPS Displays for an Established Company HIGHEST COMMISSION PAID E-mail CV to earl@uniquepackaging-usa.com

ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices.

Star Jeweler Supplies, Inc. 84 Bowery, NY, NY 10013 212-941-7655 fax: 212-941-8034 starjewelersupply@gmail.com www.starfindings.com

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132

THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

HEAD OF THE CLASS

EVEN THOUGH IT was so heavy it gave her headaches, the Cambridge Lover’s Knot Tiara was Princess Diana’s favorite. Like most royal jewels, the coronet has a long history: Queen Mary commissioned the House of Garrard to create the crown in 1914, reportedly sacrificing her own tiaras and brooches to supply the stones. Originally, the diadem was extravagant, with 38 pear-shape pearls, 19 of them upside down and floating above inverted diamond arches and 19 upright removable pearls that could provide a second row of sparkle. (Modern royals prefer the lighter, pared-down pendant version.) When Queen Mary died, she left the piece to her granddaughter Queen Elizabeth, who passed it on to Princess Diana as a wedding gift.

Today, the Duchess of Cambridge wears the tiara and Diana’s matching earrings—most recently at a state banquet in July. Clearly, the headache is still worth it. —KRISTIN YOUNG JCKONLINE.COM

TIM GRAHAM/GETTY

On a trip to Hong Kong in 1989, Princess Diana paired Queen Mary’s Lover’s Knot Tiara with her self-described Elvis ensemble

From The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology ™

GIA is the globally recognized source of knowledge, standards, education and analysis for diamonds, colored stones and pearls. Contact us today.

GIA.edu

CARLSBAD NEW YORK ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MUMBAI RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO