JCK 2018 January/February Issue

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018

JCKONLINE.COM

GEM HUNT LOOKING FOR THE HOTTEST HUES AND MOST COVETED STONES? H E R E ’ S W H AT T O B U Y IN TUCSON.

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CONTENTS

62

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

NO STONE UNTURNED

From iridescent opal to multicolored sapphires to tourmaline in just about any shade you can dream of, these luscious gems are guaranteed to leave you on a rainbow high.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL

FEATURES 70

GEM CLASS HEROES Whether they’re suddenly sexy opaque stones or faceted favorites in unusual hues, these are the five to watch in 2018. Fill your pockets accordingly.

BY AMY ELLIOTT

76

70

76

NEXT LEVEL LOOKS Need new jewels for the new year? These five trends— sculptural brass styles, slim and sexy lariats, keshi pearls, opaque stones, and mix-and-match earrings—will keep customers coming back all year long.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN LEWIS

82

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY How retailers are preparing for natural disasters such as hurricanes, wildfires, and more.

BY MARTHA C. WHITE

84

50 WAYS TO IMPROVE YOUR STORE RIGHT NOW

84 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

From Skype sessions to storytelling, giving your business a quick and easy refresh doesn’t need to feel daunting.

BY EMILI VESILIND

(FROM TOP) JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL; SLIP: AMANDEV / AMANDEV.COM ; SOFIA KAMAN FINE JEWELS; STEPHEN LEWIS. MINOAN COLLECTION 18K GOLD CHOKERS WITH GREEN TOURMALINES, PINK TOURMALINES, AND GOLD BEADS, $4,850–$4,950, LALAOUNIS, 212-439-9400, ILIASLALAOUNIS.EU; TIGER’S EYE SWIVEL EARRINGS IN 14K YELLOW GOLD, $4,140, RETROUVAÍ, 646-745-6831, RETROUVAI. COM; LONG BEAD AND CHAIN NECKLACE (SHOWN AS BRACELET) WITH SUNSTONE, MORGANITE, AND HESSONITE GARNET IN 18K GOLD, $2,250, DAVID YURMAN, 212-752-4255, DAVIDYURMAN.COM

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CONTENTS

8

DEPARTMENTS

14 16 18 24 26 29 36 38 41

44 46 49 50 52 58

12

JEWEL BOX 5 things rocking the industry

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER JCK INSIDER JCKONLINE NEWS GEMS

Inside the lab-grown diamond business boom GEM PRICING REPORT

29

THE CALENDAR Industry shows, Jan. 12–March 25, 2018

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER Flying Solo in New York City RETAIL THERAPY Store resolutions for 2018 STORE WE ADORE Thistle & Bess in Ann Arbor, Mich.

THE LOOK

RED CARPET DESIGNER SHOWCASE Adel Chefridi JCK ASKS...

Aaron Furlong

129 130 131 132 133

THE VAULT GOLD BRIDAL SILVER

SHOW BIZ We’ve got designs on the JCK Tucson show. Plus: 5 brands to visit at the AGTA GemFair.

135 TOOL TIME

Why you should be focusing your marketing on YouTube.

Plus: Ferragamo’s F-80 Motion.

144 THE WAY WE WORE

Lauren Hutton wears Tiffany jewels and a Mona Lisa smile.

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

41

(BOTTOM) GEORGE CHINSEE/ WWD/SHUTTERSTOCK

12

130

JCKONLINE.COM

6 2/,9( 67 67( /26 $1*(/(6 &$ _ 5$+$0,129 &20

COVER LOOK

10

JCKONLINE.COM

34-inch beaded rope necklace with lanterns, sapphires, and gold clasp with diamonds; $12,125; Adel Chefridi; 866-428-8777; chefridi.com

Earrings with 6.57 cts. t.w. boulder opal, pearl, 10.58 cts. t.w. tourmaline, and 0.41 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $6,800; Eden Presley; sales@ edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com

GEM HUNT Looking for the most coveted stones—and the hottest hues— in the desert? We’ll tell you what to stock up on in Tucson, aka colored-stone nirvana.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL Styling: JEN SMITH; Hair: JEANIE SYFU/ATELIER MANAGEMENT; Makeup: REGINA HARRIS Manicurist: RACHEL SHIM USING CHANEL LE VERNIS/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; Model: ALECIA MORAIS/THE SOCIETY MANAGEMENT SHEARLING FROM DARYL K

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

White diamond Shake necklace in 18k gold; $14,900; Renee Lewis; 212580-3971; renee lewisjewelry.com

14k yellow gold large turquoise Sunrise necklace with pavé diamonds; $6,500; Jacquie Aiche; sales@ jacquieaiche.com; jacquieaiche.com

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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

JEWEL BOX The Blue Box Cafe, which serves breakfast on Tiffany & Co.–branded dinnerware

2

AUCTIONS 1

RETAILERS Holly Golightly’s dream of having Breakfast at Tiffany’s has become a reality, and it’s not even bring-your-own croissant. On Nov. 3, Tiffany & Co. opened The Blue Box Cafe, a new eatery on the fourth floor of its New York City flagship, which, of course, serves breakfast. The move is part of a larger trend of retailers incorporating restaurants into their stores, but this isn’t just any retailer opening any restaurant. For die-hard fans of the 1961 movie, the chance to actually have breakfast at the place where “nothing very bad could happen to you”—and then Instagram themselves enjoying avocado toast—was enough to spur lines during opening week.

JCKONLINE.COM

When one amazing diamond doesn’t set the world on fire at auction, it’s an isolated event.

But when three other muchballyhooed pieces don’t sell—in the same week—observers wonder whether the bottom has dropped out of the high-end auction market. On Nov. 14, a 163.41 ct. D flawless diamond garnered $33.7 million at Christie’s. While that’s no small sum—it is a new world record for a D flawless— some thought the price disappointing, considering a 118 ct. D flawless brought in $30.6 million in 2013. A day later, Sotheby’s saw three notable lots—the 37.3 ct. fancy intense Raj Pink, a Moussaieff ring with a 7.41 ct. blue diamond, and the Donnersmarck pair of yellow diamonds—all fail to meet their reserves. Still, the news wasn’t all bad: The same Sotheby’s sale set a new record for a fancy light pink diamond when an anonymous buyer paid $12.8 million for a 33.63 ct. stone (pictured).

13

Earrings with 71.13 cts. t.w. amethyst and 2 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; price on request; Andreoli; 212-582-2050; andreoliusa.com

3

COLORS

We won’t say “we told you so,” but, well, why not? In our November–December 2017 issue, we predicted that purple would be big in 2018, and Pantone just proved us right, anointing Ultra Violet its 2018 Color of the Year. For anyone still recovering from the Marsala debacle of 2015—we feel your pain—the shade selection is a relief. For jewelers everywhere, it’s sure to be an inspiration. (Think amethyst, agate, sugilite…and we’ve got two words for you: purple spinel.) And if you’re still crushing on Pantone’s 2017 hue, all the better: Greenery is a terrific complement to Ultra Violet.

4

BLUE BOX CAFE: TIFFANY & CO.; PINK DIAMOND: COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S; ROYALS: CHRIS JACKSON/GETTY IMAGES ENTERTAINMENT; DIAMOND: TROY ARDON, FEATURED IN GEMS & GEMOLOGY, FALL 2017, P. 366

ROYALS 5

LABS GIA called it “blatant fraud”—and it’s hard to disagree. Earlier this year, the Carlsbad, Calif., branch of the GIA laboratory took in a 1.76 ct. F VS1 excellent-cut round diamond that bore an inscription for a natural stone. But the marking (pictured, left, partially redacted for privacy) turned out to be an obvious forgery, and, after testing, the diamond was found to be lab-grown. While GIA considers the incident isolated, it certainly doesn’t help settle the nerves of an industry already on edge about synthetic diamonds.

Prince Harry and actress Meghan Markle set the internet ablaze Nov. 27 when Kensington Palace broke news of the couple’s engagement followed by adorable photos of the pair looking completely smitten. Markle, wrapped in a chic cream-colored coat, donned two memorable pieces of jewelry for her first royal portrait session: a stunning 18k yellow gold three-stone– style engagement ring and a pair of opal studs set in 18k yellow gold.

The earrings, from Canadian jewelry brand Birks, retail for $995. But the ring, which was fabricated by Queen Elizabeth II’s official jeweler, Cleave and Co., is essentially priceless: Prince Harry designed it himself, using two diamonds that belonged to Princess Diana to flank a center stone mined in Botswana, the African country where the couple recently camped out together under the stars.

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

L

FROM THE EDITOR

14

22k gold earrings with amethysts; $2,700; Munnu the Gem Palace; 212861-0808; munnu thegempalace.com

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

FOR MOST OF my life, I’ve tried hard to adhere to this maxim, metaphorically speaking. I’ve traveled on the fly, eaten every delicacy that appeared in front of me (fried grasshopper, grilled snake), and said yes to invitations at least 10 times more than I said no. But it wasn’t until I spent two weeks in India in October—to attend the International Colored Gemstone Association’s biennial congress in Jaipur—that I realized that literally living colorfully is just as important.

From roadside markets teeming with women in crimson and gold saris to the painted camels that greeted me in the town of Pushkar—where in the days following the ICA Congress my boyfriend, Jim, and I partook in its annual camel fair—life in India is colorful to the extreme.

That goes triple for Jaipur, whose colored stone industry is second to none in cutting and polishing emeralds, quartz, and just about any other gem material your heart desires. No trip to Rajasthan’s capital is complete without paying a visit to its finest jewelers—chief among them Amrapali, Gyan Jewels, and The Gem Palace (the historic boutique downstairs and the private upstairs salon once used by the late Munnu Kasliwal as a design studio)—for whom color is both religion and currency.

As we prepare for Tucson’s annual gem week, led by JCK Tucson at the JW Marriott Tucson Starr Pass Resort & Spa (check out “Just Desert” on page 133 for all the details on the show), we’re attempting to live life in the Indian mold.

In “No Stone Unturned” (page 62), our sexy wintertime colored stone jewelry feature, that mission translates as a more-is-more approach to adornment, as seen in the layers of gem-set necklaces that bejewel our breathtaking cover model (2018 trend alert: Think beads!).

The mad-about-hue spree continues in our colored stone spotlight, “Gem Class Heroes” (page 70), by JCK ’s All That Glitters blogger Amy Elliott, who dishes on the five gems destined to make waves in 2018: malachite; bicolor tourmaline; pink opal; teal and green sapphire; and spinel in such shades as purple, gray, mauve, and more.

“Next Level Looks” (page 76), a seductive still life—photographed by New York City– based Stephen Lewis, the same shutterbug who shot the buzz-worthy book A Man & His Watch—spotlights 2018’s biggest jewelry trends: sculptural brass statement pieces, sexy lariats, keshi pearls, opaque stones (e.g., malachite and tiger’s eye), and mix-and-match earrings.

Despite the fun fashion focus, our “New Year, New You” issue is concerned with more than just looks. “In Case of Emergency” (page 82) by Martha C. White is a can’t-miss guide to preparing for catastrophes, while “50 Ways to Improve Your Store Right Now” (page 84) is senior editor Emili Vesilind’s essential take on how to jump-start your business today.

As you contemplate this next trip around the sun, may it be happy, healthy, and, yes, colorful!

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

ive colorfully.

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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 1

Necklace with 23.29 cts. t.w. yellow and pink sapphires and 2.16 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; price on request; Andreoli; 212-582-2050; andreoliusa.com

2

Cuff bracelet with lemon quartz in 14k gold–plated brass; $990; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com

Bypass ring with 4.43 cts. t.w. fancy yellow radiant-cut diamonds and white and yellow diamond melee in platinum and 18k yellow gold; $95,000; Rahaminov; 800-742-8864; rahaminov.com

3

Golden Elephant cufflinks with yellow and white diamonds in 18k gold; $36,000; Oh My Got; 212878-6080; ohmygot cufflinks.com

“I’m completely drawn to the sunny color that’s been brightening so many fashion collections this season.”

—Brittany Siminitz, JCK contributing editor

JCKONLINE.COM

4

YELLOW WORLD

5

What JCK magazine’s BRITTANY SIMINITZ is loving this month

Cirque hinged cuff bracelet with yellow beryl in 14k yellow gold; $3,465; Jane Taylor Jewelry; 413-687-3153; janetaylor.com

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

18

Rochester, N.Y., by night

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

BY THE TIME this issue is out, you’ll have made it through the holiday season and you should have a pretty good idea about how your store fared. We certainly hope it was a terrific one!

Despite all the chaos and noise coming from (both sides in) Washington, the good news is the economy continues to chug along. Unemployment is low and consumer confidence is up. On the jewelry retail front, there are those who feel the reduction in the number of stores is nearing its end, as we go from an over-stored past to a new leaner-meaner future. As I wrote in our last issue, the amount of jewelry sold is actually on the rise, so hopefully, that means more revenue per store for the thousands of remaining U.S. jewelry retailers.

I had a fascinating trip to northwest New York state in November that left me feeling optimistic about the industry and the country. JCK sales executive Randi Gewertz and I traveled to Buffalo and Rochester to see our friends at Rembrandt Charms and RDI Diamonds.

In both cities, the vibration of renewal and rebirth is strong. Signs of the “glory days” are all around, from grand old office buildings to lovely historic neighborhoods. There’s also

an air of decay at sites like the abandoned Buffalo Central Terminal. And yet, it’s clear that the cities are rebounding. We stayed in an impressive new hotel/arena complex in an area of Buffalo that was abandoned just a few years ago. In Rochester, we dined in a beautiful new restaurant near the old Erie Canal.

Both companies are thriving too. Their offices feature expanding or newly expanded facilities filled with upbeat, enthusiastic employees. After years of visiting companies during recessionary times, it was a delight to see.

Here’s hoping the American economic engine continues to gain steam, and we in the industry can get back to the business of being a part of significant life moments, well-earned self-gifting, and just-plain-fun fashion buying.

I look forward to seeing friends during the Arizona jewelry and gem shows in late January/ early February: Centurion, JCK Tucson, AGTA GemFair, and the other shows on the colored stone circuit. See you there!

P.S. In a hopeful sign for 2018, we just closed the Jewelers’ Choice Awards submissions period, with a 20 percent increase in entries over 2017. We’re excited for you to see the designers’ and manufacturers’ creations and vote at jewelerschoiceawards.com.

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; PHOTOQUEST7/ISTOCK/GETTY

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 148 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com U.S. ADVERTISING SALES

EDITORIAL

CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com Senior Editor / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

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Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHIHART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors KEVIN CREMENS, RYANN FORD, KEN GUNMAKER, ETHAN HILL, NICOLE LAMOTTE, STEPHEN LEWIS, GAVIN O’NEILL, CODY PICKENS, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS, PATRIC SHAW, JOEL STANS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK

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JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Industry Vice President KATIE DOMINESEY 203-840-5470 kdominesey@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Renewals & Sponsorships: Clockwork, Essentials & Tech, Security, Retail Experience, Gallery, Bridge, Sterling, First Look (M–Z), Vicenza 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive ANA CROSBY Renewals & Sponsorships: Currents, Diamond Plaza, Lab-Grown Diamond, Bridal, Key Accounts, First Look (A–L) 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com

Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive ALEXANDRA WURSTER International Companies & Pavilions (New & Returning); JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive DANA KARP New Companies (A–L), Security; JCK magazine 203-840-5687 dkarp@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive BARBARA MURRAY New Companies (M–Z), Retail Experience 203-840-5305 bmurray@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Bridge (Renewals); JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager CHADAÉ BOWLER 203-840-5845 cbowler@reedjewelrygroup.com

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World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry

516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com

Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com

Marketing Manager MOLLY FITZPATRICK 203-840-5379 mfitzpatric@reedjewelrygroup.com

Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com

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Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design @ LUXURY 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager HANNAH CONNORTON 203-840-5492 hconnorton@reedjewelrygroup.com

Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

Amelia Justice

â&#x20AC;&#x153;My name is Amelia Justice, and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been in the jewelry business BU +VTUJDF +FXFMFST BMM NZ MJGF *U XBT NZ m STU KPC BT B LJE "T TPPO BT * DPVME SFBDI UIF DPVOUFSUPQT * XBT XSBQQJOH QSFTFOUT BOE CFJOH B 4BOUB T IFMQFS QBTTJOH PVU DPPLJFT *U XBT BMM BCPVU XPSL FUIJD .Z GBUIFS 8PPEZ +VTUJDF EJE BQQSBJTBMT BOE TPME HFNTUPOFT PVU PG B TVJUDBTF BOE JU T OPX UIF MBSHFTU KFXFMSZ TVQFSTUPSF JO .JTTPVSJ UIBU ZPV TFF UPEBZ 8F SF BGm MJBUFE XJUI +#5 +FXFMFST PG "NFSJDB 1SFGFSSFE +FXFMFST *OUFSOBUJPOBM BOE XF USBJO PVS TUBGG JO (*" BOE %$" USBJOJOH +VTUJDF +FXFMFST XBT GPVOEFE JO BOE XF XBOUFE UP DFMFCSBUF PVS UI BOOJWFSTBSZ JO B SFBMMZ CJH XBZ 8F XBOUFE UP DFMFCSBUF PVS ZFBST JO UIF DPNNVOJUZ HFU SJE PG TPNF BHFE JOWFOUPSZ BOE KVTU IBWF B CJH CJH TBMF

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The sale was extremely helpful in getting rid of aged inventory and TGCEJKPI QWT Æ&#x201A; PCPEKCN IQCN q Amelia Justice Justice Jewelers 5RTKPIÆ&#x201A; GNF /1

.Z GBUIFS IBE VTFE 8JMLFSTPO NBOZ ZFBST BHP XIJMF DMPTJOH B TUPSF JO "SLBOTBT "MTP UIF 8JMLFSTPO SFQVUBUJPO JO UIF KFXFMSZ JOEVTUSZ TQFBLT GPS JUTFMG )PXFWFS * XBT FYUSFNFMZ SFMVDUBOU BCPVU EPJOH UIF LJOE PG NBSLFUJOH BOE BEWFSUJTJOH 8JMLFSTPO TQFDJBMJ[FT JO "MUIPVHI * IBWF UP BENJU 1IJM XBT JNNFEJBUFMZ MJLF POF PG UIF TUBGG BOE DBNF JO EBZT B XFFL XPSLJOH IBSE XJUI VT .BOZ PG UIF TUBGG NFNCFST IBWF UPME NF UIFZ XJTI IF DPVME TUBZ 5IF TBMF XJUI 8JMLFSTPO SFBMMZ IFMQFE XJUI PVS m OBODJBM HPBM 8F PWFSEJE PVS UBSHFU BOE JU XBT BNB[JOH * XPVME SFDPNNFOE 8JMLFSTPO UP BOZ KFXFMSZ TUPSF PXOFS 5IF TBMF XBT FYUSFNFMZ IFMQGVM JO HFUUJOH SJE PG BHFE JOWFOUPSZ BOE SFBDIJOH PVS m OBODJBM HPBM 5XP NPOUIT n FX CZþw -Amelia Justice

Contact us today for a free consultation!

Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999.

Or visit us at wilkersons.com.

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

INSIDER

DID YOU KNOW?

The happy result of a burrito-frying accident, the chimichanga was purportedly invented in Tucson in the 1920s.

JCK Tucson runs Jan. 31–Feb. 3.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT tucson.jckonline.com.

JCK IN THE USA

Stainless Steel Jewelry for Men

www.arzsteel.com info@arzsteel.com 514-489 8668 Looking for -Sales Reps

JCK contributing editor Brittany Siminitz has the scoop on engagement ring trends, from alternative styles—like these stackables from Dorian & Rose, pictured—to the hottest diamond shapes (ovals and pears). And she hasn’t even gotten started on the Meghan Markle–inspired three-stone revival! But we suspect she will. Keep your eyes peeled on jckinsider.com/trend-files.

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.

(TOP) ALLEKO/ISTOCK/GETTY

BRIDE & JOY

Last fall, JCK retailer account manager Isabel Cajulis racked up major frequent-flyer miles, ’gramming her way through nine jewelry stores in San Francisco alone.

(Here she is, above r., with Love & Luxe owner Betsy Barron.) Follow along at jckinsider.com/jck-travels.

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

ONLINE

@JCKMagazine

JCKmagazine

@jckmagazine

@jckmagazine

INSTAGEM FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH We may never see the face of the blogger behind @athousandfacets and the corresponding Tumblr, but this much we know: Girl loves a ring stack. She also loves to spotlight independent jewelry designers (and retailers) all across the U.S. and abroad. Colored French tips FTW!

Yumdrops

©

AGTA Gemfair Tucson 2018 – find delicious color that won’t stick to your teeth. Grab a handful at BOOTH 702 and stack them high.

A quartet of blue-green Jamie Joseph beauties from New York City’s Greenwich St. Jewelers

These Just Jules Deco-inspired emerald rings at the NY Now show demanded to be stacked.

A cluster of Kimberlin Brown’s Sea Anemones with rutilated quartz, Mexican matrix opal, and more

Lace lichen, butterfly wing, and polycarbonate earrings by Luana Coonen, seen at ACC Baltimore

Margery Hirschey working her usual wonders with boulder opals at the Store at MAD’s RE:FINE in NYC

Sporting a trio of rutilated quartz rings by San Francisco–based designer Sam Woehrmann

“His insight reminds us [to] try to think long term. To succeed we must put ourselves… where the business will be in 5 or 10 years.”

— JCKonline reader Bryan Boyne G.G. on “Exit Interview With Chaim Even-Zohar”

K I M B E R LY C O L L I N S G E M S . C O M

#AddMoreColorToYourLife

JCKONLINE.COM

W W W. E F F Y H E M A T I A N . C O M

29

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS S GEM GEMS CREATED DIRECTION

What’s Clicking on JCKonline

The top stories for November 2017. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline.com/ newsletters/subscribe.

1

More companies are entering the lab-grown diamond fray.

But will consumer demand support them?

BY ROB BATES

Synthetic Diamond Bears Fake Inscription Matching Natural Report: GIA discovered that the lab-grown round had a phony inscription meant to identify the stone as natural.

2

Lisa Bridge Becomes President of Ben Bridge: She will be the chain’s first female president, as well as its youngest executive in 60 years.

3

South Carolina Jeweler Arrested for Not Having Secondhand License: Gregory Wayne Gibson, owner of Gibson Jewelers, was charged with 15 counts of violating local precious metals laws.

W

4

Midwest Jewelers Hit

by String of Smash-andGrabs: The Jewelers’ Security Alliance has warned retailers about a string of thefts in Illinois and Michigan.

5

163 Ct. D Flawless Fetches “Disappointing” $34 Million: The stone was set in a necklace designed by Swiss jeweler de Grisogono.

Crossroads necklace with 19 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds; $96,000; Lovemonster by ALTR Created Diamonds; 646847-2323; altr.nyc/ lovemonster

JCKONLINE.COM

HILE THE JURY is still out about how lab-grown diamonds will fare with consumers, many trade veterans are convinced the stones are the future.

In the last few months, Scott Sedlacek, former vice president of merchandising at Reeds Jewelers, joined ALTR Created Diamonds, a New York City–based brand that is now selling at Helzberg Diamonds. Onetime Smyth Jewelers chief operating officer Mark Motes formed Bare Diamond, along with industry marketer Nick Pirie. And industry veteran Daniel Schneider launched his Love Earth line. All are synthetic diamond lines.

“I probably see a new lab-grown diamond offer/pitch/ad once a month, from someplace in the world,” says Tom Chatham, one of the pioneers of the created gem market.

The people entering this business say they see opportunity.

“In the chain store environment, there is a race to the bottom,” Sedlacek says. “We have convinced ourselves that I2 and I3 diamonds are beautiful. But when you put those diamonds

NEWS GEMS

THE SCOOP

MAGAZINE THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SERVING THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY FOR

149 YEARS

With original, authoritative, and compelling journalism, JCK magazine offers readers expanded coverage of the most important issues and style trends affecting their businesses.

East-West Pear necklace with 0.75 ct. man-made Nexus diamond in 14k rose gold; $349; Diamond Nexus; kyle.blades@forever companies.com; diamondnexus.com

next to a well-made SI or VS, whether it’s man-made or natural, the guest will always choose the better diamond.”

Motes admits he used to be “the most outspoken person” against man-made gems. But he’s changed his tune. “Most young people don’t care” if a diamond was produced in a lab, he says.

While more lines are appearing on the scene, the number of companies producing these diamonds hasn’t increased.

“There is still only a handful of capable producers in both HPHT and CVD,” Chatham says, referring to the two methods of producing synthetic diamonds. “There are numerous machine makers, but that doesn’t mean you can grow competitive product. One of my standard answers to people who come to me to buy a press is ‘Just because you can afford to buy a jet plane doesn’t mean you can fly it.’ ” Alon Ben-Shoshan, a Diamond Foundry veteran who is now involved with virtual bourse Lab Grown Diamond Network, says he believes most labs are operating at a loss.

The key question, though, is consumer demand. So far, indications are consumer acceptance is still low, but rising.

In The Knot’s 2017 Jewelry & Engagement Study, 25 percent of brides and grooms said they would consider a man-made diamond for a center stone, and 27 percent said they would consider one for an accent stone. That’s up from 2016, when 16 percent said they would consider a lab-grown diamond for a center stone and 18 percent would consider an accent stone.

“It is one of the few days when we can gather with family and friends to give thanks, share a meal, and just enjoy time together.”

—Stephen Lebovitz, president and CEO of mall operator CBL Properties, on why his properties closed for Thanksgiving

JCKONLINE.COM

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

Q&A

32

Lisa Bridge Collection Hawaii pendant with rhodochrosite and emeralds in sterling silver; $599

3 Questions for...

LISA BRIDGE Lisa Bridge Hawaii earrings with peridot, amethyst, and emerald in sterling silver; $279

Lisa Bridge Santorini ring with lapis and mother-of-pearl in sterling silver; $199

IN NOVEMBER, LISA Bridge became president and chief operating officer of Ben Bridge Jeweler. She is the fifth generation of her family to work at the jeweler. (Her father, Ed, formerly co-CEO, is now sole CEO and chairman. Her uncle Jonathan, formerly co-CEO, has retired.) Here, she talks about how her fellow millennials view jewelry, issues at malls, and where she wants to take the company.

Fine Jewelry Displays

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 ,,,- >Z`e^ Kh\d ;eo]' Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com

In what direction do you want to take the business?

We did a branding study and engaged a new marketing firm, and we want to get down to what is unique about Ben Bridge. We found out that our customers love us. But we also found that customers donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t recognize the difference between jewelers. There is a tremendous opportunity to differentiate ourselves in the marketplace.

As a millennial, what do you think of how your peers view jewelry?

The desire for jewelry has been around for thousands of years and will continue to be around. We need to make sure that we are evolving to meet consumer needs and to tell our story as an industry.

I have a lot of friends who got married this year, and every one of them got an engagement ring. Every one of them wanted that symbol of love and forever. Maybe that engagement ring looked a little different from years ago.

Your stores are mostly in malls.

How have you found traffic, given all the issues with malls we are hearing about?

It very much depends on the center.

The top centers are continuing to draw customers, and they make it an experience. So weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re seeing strength from those top shopping centers. The ones that are lower are more challenging. Those are where people havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t invested and havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t made it unique or an experience. As a relationship business, we have to be drawing in our customers and do a better job of bringing in people on our own.

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NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE INDUST ST &P PEOPL PEOP LE

34

Emerald Waterfall earrings with Jasmine-cut diamonds; price on request; Nirav Modi; 212-6030000; niravmodi.com

COMINGS AND GOINGS addition, former Tiffany & Co. CEO Frédéric Cumenal has joined Blue Nile’s board.

The Israel Diamond Exchange has reelected Yoram Dvash for a second three-year term as bourse president.

Bryan Morgan

tems and technology officer.

GIA has welcomed three new governors to its board: Andy Johnson, CEO of Diamond Cellar Holdings; Lawrence Ma, chief executive of Lee Heng Diamond Group; and Karen Evans, national director of the U.S. Cyber Challenge.

Ruth Sommers

De Beers executive head of strategy and corporate affairs Gareth Mostyn is leaving the company after six years.

He will join the Church of England as chief finance and operations officer.

Charles & Colvard hired two new sales executives: Nanci Kirczow is now vice president of sales for traditional channels, focusing on growing business from wholesale, retail, and television customers.

Jessica Lesesky is VP of sales for online channels, focusing on pure-play online retailers and marketplaces such as Amazon and eBay.

Blue Nile has appointed David Yurman veteran Ruth Sommers chief operating

officer. She most recently served as Yurman’s COO. In JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

Gerald Storch, who spent nearly three years as CEO of HBC, owner of Saks Fifth Avenue and Lord & Taylor, has stepped

Australian jewelry retailer Michael Hill has appointed Vanessa Brennan chief customer officer.

Peter Meeus is stepping down

from his role as chairman of the Dubai Diamond Exchange.

He will be replaced at the

down. His interim replacement is HBC executive chairman and former CEO Richard Baker.

Jessica Lesesky

Canadian retail veteran Brian C. Land has been

United Arab Emirates’ sole bourse by Ahmed Bin Sulayem, chairman of the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre.

appointed general manager of the Canadian Jewellers Association.

24K GALA: COURTESY OF THE 24K CLUB OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

Bryan Morgan, former chief operating officer of Signet, has joined Stuller as chief sys-

J.C. Penney has appointed James Starke senior vice

president and senior general merchandise manager of men’s apparel, children’s apparel, and jewelry, part of a larger shake-up of its merchandising division.

Brian C. Land JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

Richemont has appointed Jérôme Lambert to the

newly created role of chief operating officer. In his new role, Lambert, former CEO of Montblanc, will be responsible for all Richemont brands other than Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. In addition, Emmanuel Perrin, currently international sales director for Cartier, will be appointed head of specialist watchmakers distribution.

Jérôme Lambert

OPENING Indian jeweler Nirav Modi has opened two more boutiques in the United States: one at the Wynn Las Vegas, and the other at Honolulu’s Ala Moana Center.

REMEMBERED Mark Boston, the De Beers

broker who early on recognized the potential of the Indian diamond industry, died from cancer Nov. 13.

He was 71.

JCKONLINE.COM

Try-and-buy jewelry e-tailer Flont has raised $5 million from private investors, including newly established C Ventures.

Sallie Morton Sallie Morton, the first female president of the American Gem Society and a leading figure in establishing the group’s network of guilds, died Oct. 24 of mesothelioma, a form of cancer caused by asbestos. She was 91.

On Sept. 26, Exelco North America, the local branch of the prominent Belgian diamond company, filed for Chapter 11 protection in Delaware bankruptcy court, along with affiliated companies Exelco NV, FTK Worldwide Manufacturing BVBA, and Ideal Diamond Trading USA.

HONORED

COMPANIES

At its Oct. 14 dinner-dance and gala, the Jewelers 24

Monaco-based Luna Management has acquired Swiss watch brand DeLaneau.

Karat Club of Southern California honored Avi Raz of A&Z Pearls and the Bhindi family of Bhindi Jewelers with its

Swiss watch manufacturer De Bethune has sold a majority stake to an investment consortium.

De Beers plans to shut Victor, its Ontario diamond mine, in the first quarter of 2019.

The Washington Companies has completed its $1.2 billion acquisition of miner Dominion Diamond Corp. Dominion owns a majority stake in the Ekati diamond mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories as well as 40 percent of the nearby Diavik mine.

Excellence in Service Award.

(Pictured here are Dhanesh and Vinod Bhindi, far l. and third from l., with 24 Karat president Karen Signorino and Rolex’s Cliff Cook.)

Douglas K. Hucker, CEO of the American Gem Trade Association, received the Lifetime Achievement Award.

24K Club of SoCal gala

NEWS GEMS

36

GEM PRICING

2018 FORECAST: STABLE GROWTH

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant

FINE

Alexandrite

G

$6,800

$6,320

$5,700

$4,720

H

$6,080

$5,800

$5,450

$4,470

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

Rhodolite Garnet I

$5,700

$5,200

$4,950

$4,000

J

$4,900

$4,500

$4,080

$3,760

1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round

IN THE UNITED States, gem dealers reported slowerthan-expected business in the lead-up to the holidays.

Many noted that independent jewelers were buying only for immediate needs. Actual investment in inventory lagged behind expectations. Overall, however, business was up from 2016, according to reports from dealers.

The outlook for the gem trade in 2018 is positive. A string of modest price corrections that began in 2016 and accelerated in 2017 affected many popular varieties, which are no longer trading at peak prices. Among the most prominent of these is ruby, where prices are down as a result of strong supply. A number of dealers expect ruby prices to continue to soften before stabilizing, based on recent auctions of Mozambican ruby that failed to generate much interest. Likewise, in a surprising development, dealers reported that calls for blue sapphire were also below expected levels. During the fall season, blue zircon, aqua, garnet, spinel, tourmaline, and emerald were the strongest sellers.

Rubellite Tourmaline

G

$3,570

$3,200

$2,700

$2,340

H

$3,200

$3,000

$2,600

$2,270

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

Tsavorite Garnet I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant

1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)

G

$12,200

$11,300

$9,350

$7,600

H

$10,300

$10,000

$8,300

$7,150

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I

$9,700

$7,900

$7,600

$6,725

J

$7,200

$7,300

$6,400

$6,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut

Pink Sapphire

G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

$6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

J

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

,

Highlighting segmented products in the emerging niche markets.

JCK LAS VEGAS M A N D A L AY B AY R E S O RT & C A S I N O

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FRIDAY, 7fB É&#x2022; � MONDAY, 7fB É&#x2DC;Ê&#x192; É&#x2013;É&#x201D;É&#x2022;É&#x153; F O R I N F O R M AT I O N V I S I T : J CKO N L I N E.C O M/LASV EGAS THE PREMIER D EST I NAT I O N TO D I S COV E R

JCKEVENTS

W HATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S N EW A ND W HATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S N EX T I N T H E F I N E J EW E L RY MA RK ET

#J C K LASV E G AS

38

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR NDA U.S. • JANUARY

26–28

28–29

9–12

GEMFAIRE

12–14

ORIGINAL MIAMI ANTIQUE SHOW

gemfaire.com

49TH ACE IT ANNUAL WINTER EDUCATIONAL CONFERENCE

Hillsboro, Ore.

GEMFAIRE Del Mar, Calif.

26–29

gemfaire.com

NEW ORLEANS GIFT AND JEWELRY SHOW

najaappraisers.com

New Orleans

AGTA GEMFAIR TUCSON

WHOLE BEAD SHOW Honolulu wholebead.com

19–21 GEMFAIRE San Rafael, Calif. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Houston intergem.com

WHOLE BEAD SHOW Phoenix wholebead.com

20–22 JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE (JIS)

helenbrett.com

26–30 Tucson wholebead.com

26–FEB. 7 PUEBLO GEM & MINERAL SHOW Tucson pueblogemshow.com

27–FEB. 3 TO BEAD TRUE BLUE/TUCSON BEAD SHOW/COLORS OF THE STONE Tucson colorsofthestone.com

Miami

27–FEB. 7 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS

SEATTLE GIFT SHOW Seattle seattlegiftshow.com

21–23 MRKET

30–FEB. 4 Tucson

Tucson (Gem Mall & Holidome) glwshows.com

27–FEB. 10 ARIZONA MINERAL & FOSSIL SHOW Tucson

mzexpos.com

GJX GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Tucson gjxusa.com

30–FEB. 5 TUCSON’S NEW MINERAL SHOW Tucson tucsonsnewmineral show.com

31–FEB. 3 JCK TUCSON Tucson tucson. jckonline.com

• FEBRUARY 1–4 MIAMI BEACH JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW Miami Beach miamibeach jewelryshow.com

27–FEB. 11

25–28

JEWELRY, GEMS & MINERALS EXPO

GEMFAIRE

Tucson (Simpson St. & Michigan St.)

gemfaire.com

jgmexpo.com

8–11

28–30

TUCSON GEM AND MINERAL SHOW

gemandjamfestival.com

25–FEB. 5 TUCSON GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Tucson

CENTURION JEWELRY SHOW

FASHION JEWELRY & ACCESSORY SHOW Las Vegas

January Birthstone

12–14 MAGIC Las Vegas ubmfashion.com

GARNET

12–15 Ring with 6.96 cts. t.w. tsavorite garnet, 1.23 cts. t.w. marquise diamonds, and 0.59 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $39,800; Ivy New York; munisa@yavorskyy.com; ivynewyork.com

WOMENSWEAR IN NEVADA Las Vegas wwinshow.com

16–18

ubmfashion.com

Tucson

10–13

ifjag.com

New York City

12TH ANNUAL GEM & JAM FESTIVAL

originalmiamibeach antiqueshow.com

agta.org

WHOLE BEAD SHOW

jisshow.com

20–23

Tucson

Miami

2–4 Roseville, Calif.

GEMFAIRE

GEMFAIRE

Santa Barbara, Calif.

Costa Mesa, Calif.

gemfaire.com

gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

Chantilly, Va.

Southfield, Mich.

intergem.com

intergem.com

tgms.org

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

16–18

Denver

Seattle

Atlanta

intergem.com

intergem.com

craftcouncil.org

3–5

11–12

ATLANTA JEWELRY SHOW

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS

Minneapolis

Atlanta

17–19

23–26

AMERICAN CRAFT RETAILERS EXPO

CALIFORNIA MARKETPLACE

Philadelphia

Los Angeles

9–11

acrephiladelphia.com

californiamarketplace.com

JA NEW YORK

GEMFAIRE

New York City

Pleasanton, Calif.

ja-newyork.com

21–22 AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW–BALTIMORE (WHOLESALE) Baltimore

26–28 COTERIE New York City ubmfashion.com

craftcouncil.org

23–25

Tucson

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW–BALTIMORE Baltimore craftcouncil.org

• MARCH

glwshows.com

GEMFAIRE

11–13

gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW intergem.com

Livonia, Mich.

glwshows.com

atlantajewelry show.com

Philadelphia

AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW–ATLANTA

11–14 ASD MARKET WEEK

Reno, Nev. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW San Mateo, Calif. intergem.com

Las Vegas asdonline.com

WHOLE BEAD SHOW New York City wholebead.com

2–4 GEMFAIRE Del Mar, Calif. gemfaire.com

Scottsdale, Ariz. centurionjewelry.com

jogsshow.com

GET READY FOR… BASELWORLD MARCH 22–27 JIS APRIL APRIL 14–16

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THE CALENDAR

amberif 25th International Fair of Amber, Jewellery & Gemstones

21-24.03.2018 INTERNATIONAL • JANUARY

9–13

15–19

ambiente.messe frankfurt.com

SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE Geneva sihh.org

AMBIENTE Frankfurt

16–19 INHORGENTA MUNICH Munich inhorgenta.com

19–22 BIJORHCA Paris bijorhca.com

19–22 FENINJER São Paulo

• MARCH

21–24

1–4

amber.amberexpo.pl

AMBERIF

GDAŃSK / POLAND amberif.pl

Gda´nsk, Poland

PREMIERE CLASSE Paris premiere-classe.com

1–5 HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW

22–25 ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW Istanbul istanbuljewelry show.com

Hong Kong m.hktdc.com/fair/ hkjewellery-en

feninjer.com.br

14–17

PREMIERE CLASSE Paris premiere-classe.com

19–23 MAISON & OBJET Paris maison-objet.com

19–24

27– MARCH 3 HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND, GEM & PEARL SHOW

AMBER TRIP INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW Vilnius, Lithuania ambertrip.com

Hong Kong m.hktdc.com/fair/ hkdgp-en

VICENZAORO Vicenza, Italy vicenzaoro.com

23–25 EXPO JOYA Mexico City expojoya.com.mx

24–27 29TH INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY TOKYO Tokyo ijt.jp/en

• FEBRUARY 4–8 JEWELLERY & WATCH Birmingham, England jewelleryandwatch birmingham.com

9–12 SIGNATURE IIJS Mumbai, India iijs-signature.org

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February Birthstone

AMETHYST 18k yellow gold ring with 4.56 ct. amethyst and 0.51 ct. t.w. white and 0.65 ct. t.w. black diamonds; $8,300; Ara Vartanian; info@ara.com.br; aravartanian.com

ambermart 19th International Amber Fair

06-08.09.2018 GDAŃSK / POLAND ambermart.pl organisation Gdańsk International Fair Co.

venue AMBEREXPO Exhibition & Convention Centre jewellery by Jarosław Westermark

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK

CARDIGAN: NAN SEO; BELT: KATIE LARES; PANTS: MONZLAPUR; JEWELRY: SOLOMEINA

Elizabeth Solomeina Flying Solo flyingsolo.nyc

A SOLO ARTIST Independent designers are the stars at Elizabeth Solomeina’s Manhattan marketplace, Flying Solo

BY EMILI VESILIND PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRAD OGBONNA

FEW YEARS AGO, Elizabeth Solomeina, owner of fine jewelry brand Solomeina, decided she would stop wishing for a New York City retail partner that let independent designers connect directly with their consumers—she would create such a store herself. The designer joined forces (and pooled financial resources) with nearly three dozen other locally based fashion, accessory, and jewelry designers to open Flying Solo, a marketplace that carries and promotes independent luxury designers. The retail shop was conceived as a highly curated environment that would lure stylists and editors—and on any day of the week, you’re likely to find both there. The shop’s business model is just as uncommon and borrows from both the consignment store and the community co-op. Designers pay a monthly flat membership fee that goes toward rent, marketing, and events, and are required to work in the store eight hours every week. The shop found popularity fast, and in June 2017, only a year after opening downtown, Solomeina and her partners relocated to a two-floor space on West Broadway. “I was selling in boutiques worldwide,” Solomeina says, “but at some point I realized that there might be a better way to do this.”

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

42

Elizabeth Solomeina’s own choker with baroque pearls and diamonds ($1,300)

A Cone Diamond ring by Vitae Ascendere with 2.4 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold ($12,000)

“Flying Solo doesn’t take commission; 100 percent of profits from any piece sold goes directly to the designer.”

—Elizabeth Solomeina

One-of-a-kind rose quartz and onyx tassel earrings by Glitter Trunk ($210)

You moved into a bigger store this past summer—how did that change the business?

We doubled in designers and tripled in size. We used to be 35 designers, and now we’re 68. We moved because we had a waitlist of designers that was so long, and there were so many amazing designers we wanted to showcase. We have around 11 jewelry designers right now [including GBGH, The Modern Tales, and Vitae Ascendere], around 35 clothing designers, and the rest is split between shoes, bags, and hats.

Beyond making sales, how does the store setup benefit the designers?

A lot of our designers ended up

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

not being anywhere else; they don’t like consignment, and they say the markups with traditional retail are too much. Flying Solo doesn’t take any commission on sales; 100 percent of profits from any piece sold goes directly to the designer. And on top of that, they can really experiment.

Maybe they find out in the store that silver doesn’t sell so well this season, so they switch some silver pieces out for gold-plated pieces. The store allows them to experiment on so many levels.

How do you decide where to place designers’ goods in the store?

We rotate the entire inventory every week so no one is stuck in back for long. Also, this makes the store feel fresh. In any given week, there will be new pieces in the store—designers are free to bring new pieces in anytime and see how they perform. They can even bring a sample and see how it sells—they don’t have to do a whole production run.

Flying Solo does its own biannual New York Fashion Week show— tell us about that.

Yes, we did our second show this September. And this time around we got amazing [media] coverage, including from The New York Times.

The show was so packed, we actually had to limit attendance to press only.

We showcased all the brands carried in Flying Solo, and we added a few outside ones for the show. The jewelry designers showcase their collections at the beginning. It’s kind of a hybrid of a presentation and a runway show.

What do you look for in new collections and jewelry designers?

We’re looking for something that’s really unique. It needs to be something exciting for our customers, something you cannot see anywhere else. Flying Solo is sort of how stores in Paris used to be—all unique designers and lots of one-of-a-kind pieces.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER

JCKONLINE.COM

GEORGE CHINSEE/WWD/SHUTTERSTOCK; JEWELRY: COURTESY FLYING SOLO

What was your initial idea for Flying Solo?

It came out of my own need to have a central place to interact with clients, stylists, and press. And a lot of my friends who are jewelry designers and clothing designers thought we needed a place like this too. But it’s grown into so much more. Now it’s really an industry hub.

SHOP TALK

RETAIL THERAPY

NEW YEAR’S EVOLUTION

DOMINIC MARATTA OWNER DOMINIC’S FINE JEWELRY Sterling Heights, Mich. dominicsfinejewelry.com

BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: What will you do differently in your store in 2018?

A:

MEG CARROLL OWNER MEG C JEWELRY GALLERY Lexington, Ky. megcgallery.com

I just moved locations in Lexington, and we’re going to start doing exhibitions showcasing true art jewelry. I’m hoping we can do them at least twice a year. It keeps things fresh and interesting. I’m in a pretty conservative area, so we’re going to start out with a few weird pieces to introduce people to art jewelry—we’ll get weirder and weirder as we go!

THOMAS HART JR. OWNER HART JEWELERS Grants Pass, Ore. hartjewelers.com

A: We’ll be launching a new website and investing more time in marketing efforts, especially when it comes to social media—we need to make a more concerted effort there. We’re doing social media now, but I’d like to get it more streamlined. So we’re talking to a vendor we work with about hiring their social media person to keep our platforms looking fresh for us.

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

A: We’re going to move more toward curating and cultivating our own brand, instead of focusing on outside brands as much. My daughters are millennials and are moving us more that way. Also, we’re going to make it so clients can design their own jewelry. We’re setting up a system so they can make an appointment online to come in and meet with us to create a custom piece.

ROBERT ARGO OWNER ARGO & LEHNE JEWELERS Columbus, Ohio argolehne.com

A: Our bridal business has been moving more toward vintage and custom, so we will be offering more custom. We’re seeing a lot more ring shoppers going to solitaire and three-stone rings, so we’ll be [stocking] those too. And ultimately, we’re going to carry a more diverse selection of bridal styles but not in the same quantities as before.

We always like to give our cases breathing room.

JCKONLINE.COM

SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

46

THISTLE & BESS Blocks away from the University of Michigan’s leafy campus and nestled among some of Ann Arbor’s most revered retailers lies Thistle & Bess. It’s both eclectic and well-designed, reflecting owner Diana Marsh’s love for English elegance, Scottish traditions, and a bit of Brooklyn bravado.

BY KAREN DYBIS

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

“I just look for pieces that I would like to wear myself!” says Marsh. (Below: Mociun Five Triangle Turquoise and Mega rings; $2,350 each)

COURTESY OF THISTLE & BESS; CENTER: COURTESY OF SILVER THUMB PHOTOGRAPHY

222 N. FOURTH AVE., ANN ARBOR, MICH.

47

“It is very empowering to see hardworking women treat themselves to something that brings them happiness.”

—Diana Marsh

I

N JUST TWO years, Thistle & Bess has built an appreciative audience in Ann Arbor’s historic Kerrytown district for its clever front-window displays, curated mix of local and international artists, and whimsical selection of handcrafted rings, bracelets, necklaces, and watches. “I am always looking for everyday luxuries—not things that you only wear for special occasions,” Marsh explains. “I also like to look for jewelers that tell a story or have some sort of meaning behind their pieces.” There are Alex Monroe’s delicate bees and bikes, Hortense’s playful mismatched eye earrings, Rebel Nell graffiti rings, Morphe’s Ouija planchette with its mystical, glowing opals—something for every age and interest. They all sit atop delicate dishes and rare books within a stately Charles F. Biele showcase (it still bears the New York address of the venerated manufacturer on its polished front). Marsh built her checkout—a blend of classic marble, glass, and wood in front of a cool wallpaper dotted with book spines— around the jewelry display.

AFTER SCHOOL Retail is actually Marsh’s second career. She spent 11 years as an elementary-school teacher in New York City, where she could fulfill her obsession with antiques and vintage jewelry every weekend. Soon, Marsh had an Etsy shop and an idea for a store. “Being a teacher taught me some pretty important lessons in customer service,” says Marsh, who grew up and went to college in Ann Arbor. “As a teacher, we are trained to meet the needs of all students, JCKONLINE.COM

“I want pieces that feel unique and special, but accessible and wearable,” says Marsh. (Right: Ash Jewelry Studio’s gold-dipped circle pendant in porcelain and gold glaze; $84)

and families, and to be creative in the ways that we present information. I think that really helped prepare me to deal with the different needs of my customers. Also, as a teacher, you have to go with the flow. No day is the same. Owning a shop is a pretty unpredictable venture.”

WORKSHOP TALK Thistle & Bess—named for Marsh’s Scottish heritage, as well as her fondness for history, Queen Elizabeth I, and all things English—carries a wide array of housewares, paper products, children’s goods, and artwork. She also hosts workshops at her store, giving customers access to artists ranging from weavers to letterpress experts to terrarium makers. “My goal,” Marsh says, “is to find artists who think about their work and share them with my customers.”

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

49

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK 1

SET IN STONE

2

3

1/ Ebony Buckle earrings in 18k yellow gold; $8,200; David Webb; 212421-3030; davidwebb.com

Whether classically inclined or out-of-this-world, inlaid gemstones and wood impart an artistic touch to designer jewels

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

4 2/ Opal inlay heart pendant in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $5,500; Jennifer Meyer; 844-446-3937; jennifermeyer.com

3/ Opal inlay Galaxy Mosaic cuff in 14k yellow gold with diamonds; $6,500; Jacquie Aiche; 310-5507529 ext. 101; jacquieaiche.com

JCKONLINE.COM

5

4/ Earrings with diamond, tanzanite, turquoise, and white marble inlaid with malachite, turquoise, lapis, and mother-of-pearl in 18k gold; $15,200; Silvia Furmanovich; 866301-MUSE; silviafurmanovich.com

5/ Abalone elephant cufflinks in sterling silver; $450; Jan Leslie; 212-679-5337; janleslie.com

THE LOOK

RED CARPET

50

THE BEAD GOES ON The perennially popular tassel embodies this year’s most classic jewelry trend

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

We were thrilled to see Portman—not typically a statement-jewelry wearer— jazz up a little Dior black dress with ruby tassels at an L.A. Dance Project gala (she was a co-chair). The kicky Van Cleef & Arpels drops were a natural choice: VCA is a supporter of LADP, which was founded by Portman’s husband, Benjamin Millepied; he’s a former principal dancer for the New York City Ballet, which premiered the Balanchine piece Jewels, inspired by the legendary gems of— you guessed it!—Van Cleef & Arpels.

Soleil d’Orient earrings with sapphires, diamonds, emeralds, spinels, and pearls in 18k white and rose gold; price on request; Van Cleef & Arpels; 877-VAN-CLEEF; vancleefarpels.com

Jharna earrings in 18k white gold with diamonds, pearls, and ruby tassel; $7,360; Amrapali; 800-210-6773; amrapali.com

Modern Craft earrings in cinnamon with silk cord beads and onyx stone tops; $195; Lizzie Fortunato; kathryn@lizzie fortunato.com; lizziefortunato.com

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

UNDER $10,000

KATHARINE McPHEE

At a recent SAG-AFTRA Foundation awards event in Los Angeles, McPhee rocked a cape-style tuxedo jacket, a lace-trimmed Maria Lucia Hohan gown, and Wonder Woman–worthy stacks of mixed metal and diamond bracelets on both arms. But it was the actress-singer’s gorgeous green Gilan shoulder dusters—which provided a much-needed pop to her otherwise all-black ensemble—that really made our jaws drop. (Well, the earrings and her picture-perfect smoky eye makeup.) Color us emerald with envy.

18k white gold earrings with emeralds, black and white diamonds, and 71.34 cts. t.w. emerald beads; $17,675; Gilan; 917-213-0349; gilan.ist Tassel earrings in

UNDER $2,500

18k yellow and black gold vermeil with green agate beads and lab-grown white diamonds; £1,295 ($1,708); Anabela Chan; sales@ anabelachan.com; anabelachan.com

UNDER $500

UNDER $1,000

Green onyx tassel ball earrings with micro-pavé emerald zircons in 22k gold vermeil; £495 ($653); Látelita London; sales@ latelita.com; latelita.com

JCKONLINE.COM

PORTMAN: STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE/GETTY; MCPHEE: JON KOPALOFF/FILMMAGIC/GETTY

NATALIE PORTMAN

THE NEW MARK OF EXCELLENCE Discover a new level of excellence in fashion forward silver jewelry. Always in style, with universal appeal, our creations are hand-forged in the U.S. for flawless design and lasting perfection. Each piece reflects the unique style that every discerning woman desires.

To become a brand partner, call us today at 800.828.1122 or visit edlevinjewelry.com.

E.L. Designs ED LEVIN STUDIO

THE LOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

52

GRAND DESIGNER

With his emphasis on aesthetics and wearability, Adel Chefridi is truly a craftsman for the 21st century

I

BY LORI WHITE Multi Sapphire Lights pendant in 18k yellow gold with 0.4 ct. t.w. multicolored sapphires and 0.15 ct. t.w. diamonds on 16-inch chain; $5,490

Semimounts in 18k yellow gold and platinum with 0.03 ct–0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,250–$3,750; Adel Chefridi; 866-4288777; chefridi.com

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

T’S A BLUSTERY late-November day in New York’s Hudson Valley, and designer Adel Chefridi is at his bench on the second floor of his Kingston, N.Y., studio, painstakingly engraving the charm of an earring. He covers the charm with a black Sharpie and polishes off the ink, leaving behind a slight shadow in the grooves of the engraving.

“Air moves the metal in an intentional way,” he explains.

“A lot of things don’t come to life until the last moment, when you’re polishing.”

The engraving is delicate and artful. After design, stone setting and engraving are Chefridi’s bailiwick, but he resists being categorized.

“It feels when you identify yourself as something, you’ve caged yourself,” he says. “And you set expectations.

At some point, I accepted the label of designer, with precaution. I’m not a jeweler in the classic term. So, if you come to me to make a general work, I will send you to a jeweler, because it’s not what I do. We don’t do things in hundreds. We’ll do two, three pieces. It’s the stones that make the piece unique.”

The studio produces pieces that you’ll see in galleries (Art + Soul in Boulder, Colo., for example) or catalogs (Sundance), but the designer’s handcrafted one-of-a-kind works are his main concentration. And those are defined by his love of stones. “The stones come first,” he says.

Chefridi came to New York City from Tunisia in 1998 to study jewelry-making. He learned his craft at GIA and took an intensive diamond-setting class at Studio Jewelers Ltd. in Manhattan. He met his wife and business JCKONLINE.COM

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DESIGNER SHOWCASE

54

Bands in 18k yellow and 18k rose gold with 0.16 ct.–0.33 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,875–$3,500

Nomad earrings in 18k yellow gold with 0.26 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,200

“I struggled with identity for a long time. My teacher at jewelry school… would say, ‘You don’t fit in the mold.’”

—Adel Chefridi

partner, Corinne, a few weeks after his arrival—on the subway. Chefridi had a showroom in Manhattan, and he and Corinne lived in Brooklyn with their two girls. After 10 years of city living and spending many weekends at their beloved cabin in Ulster County, the family moved to Woodstock, N.Y. On the Woodstock property, he built a two-story studio, which he eventually outgrew, so he moved into his current airy space in Kingston’s Stockade District in 2016.

The studio is just a few blocks from where the British tried to burn Kingston, the first capital of New York, to the ground during the Revolutionary War in October 1777.

The choice of locale is fitting. Kingston has seen its share of hard times, but it’s experiencing a true resurgence as an influx of artists, designers, and other creators have moved into the area in search of a less hectic lifestyle and more affordable housing options that will allow them to continue making art.

Chefridi, always the artist, feels perfectly at home. “I grew up in a poor environment, so we didn’t have things, but we made things,” he says. “We didn’t have a ball, so we made a ball. So, it was creative in that sense. Creativity was part of playing.”

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

His studio is creativity made tangible. Two young jewelers, Jen and Rose, work at their respective benches across the studio. Jen works on a necklace with colored sapphires from Madagascar, and accompanying those gems in a tray on her bench are two stunning Mozambican rubies.

Chefridi teaches his assistants to set stones. Both Jen and Rose went to “very good schools, but they didn’t learn to set stones,” he says. The first employee he taught to set stones has since ventured out on his own as an independent jeweler. Chefridi says, with complete humility, that you can’t tell the difference between his stone setting and his former apprentice’s, except that the apprentice’s settings “are better, because he does it all the time.”

The artist is not the only one responsible for design.

“The whole studio is participating,” he says. “We sit together and meet all the time. We discuss projects together, and then we start implementing those projects. I like that participation and the creative process. We take things from idea to finished piece.”

Sketches are usually drawn before the wax casting process takes place, but occasionally a piece goes straight to the casting room. “Sometimes we just go for it,” Chefridi says, smiling.

Quality control, another of Chefridi’s responsibilities, is a vital component of his design ethos. “There is a new group of designers that says you can be creative, you can break the mold, you can go to new territory without compromising the quality,” he says. “To do something new, you don’t need to break all the rules. The difference between a JCKONLINE.COM

An American Wedding Deserves An American Made Band TM

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DESIGNER SHOWCASE

56

Nostalgia Harmony pendant in sterling silver and 18k yellow gold with sapphire and 0.14 ct. t.w. diamonds on 18-inch oxidized silver chain; $3,375

Tapered Multi Sapphire ring in 18k yellow gold with multicolored sapphires; $2,465

Crown-set solitaire semimount in platinum and 18k yellow gold with 0.18 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,840

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

work of art that you hang on a wall and a necklace is that you’re going to wear that necklace, so it’s important that it doesn’t break or that the stones don’t fall out. It’s important for a ring to be comfortable.

“Those are practical things,” he adds. “You want to bring the aesthetic ideals to the bench and [at the same time] do practical things.”

That distinction is evident in Chefridi’s ability to stand in the shoes of his wearer and understand what she (or he) needs and wants from him in a piece. “There is a user here that you need to be aware of—that is design,” he says.

“When you’re an artist you can do anything you want for yourself. You can make a painting or a piece of music any way you want. When you’re a designer, you’re bound by the usability of that piece. There is an element of, almost, compassion in it, because you have to picture yourself in that position. It’s not just me. Design is an inclusive experience. It’s not an individual experience. You have to immerse yourself in the other, too.”

Chefridi is adept in immersing himself in “the other,” and not only from a design viewpoint. When JCK visited, he was prepping for his post-Thanksgiving open studio and sample sale as well as the upcoming winter shows: NY Now, JCK Tucson, and American Craft Show Baltimore. The Baltimore show, he explains, is perfect for his work because the “people really appreciate the colored stones. Showgoers are more art oriented, not classic jewelry stores.”

This is why Debbie Klein’s Art + Soul gallery in Boulder is such a popular outlet for Chefridi’s work. “Debbie sells jewelry and paintings,” he says. “She used to work at Christie’s, and she has a sharp eye.”

Chefridi shows new designs at each show he attends.

At JCK Tucson in February, he will be unveiling a multicolored sapphire collection as well as the engraved 18k gold and diamond Nomad collection.

He genuinely enjoys talking to people at shows—and watching as they try on his pieces. “When I see women trying pieces on at shows, they don’t look at the piece itself; they look at how they look in the piece,” he says. “They’re not trying to be more beautiful or be someone else—they’re trying to access their own beauty.

“I get a lot of design ideas when I talk to people and when I see people try things on. I take notes on the back of a receipt. I have a folder of little receipts, little scribbles.

That’s when the creativity happens.”

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ONLINE THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

STAY CONNECTED WITH

JCKONLINE.COM.

The industry’s go-to online source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry.

— JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.

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THE LOOK

Q&A

58

Asks...

AARON FURLONG

A peek into the colorful world of the artist behind Aaron Henry Designs Aaron Henry Designs’ five-row reversible sapphire bracelet

FOR OUR ANNUAL pre–Gem Week issue, it’s only fitting that we feature a designer who’s as besotted with colored stones as we are. Aaron Furlong works natural wonders with vibrant spinel and paints wearable mosaics with multicolored sapphires. Not surprisingly, those happen to be Furlong’s favorite gems: “So many colors and great brilliance!” Look for Aaron Henry Designs at JCK Tucson, where Furlong will debut some shoulder-duster earrings, “one of which converts from one to three strands.” And be sure to gawk at the spinel and sapphires. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 49 Number of years in the biz: 28 Number of employees you oversee: Five Family and pets: My wife and I have two sons, Parker and Riley, one daughter, Katie, and a Portuguese water dog—R.B., named after the “Notorious RBG” [Ruth Bader Ginsburg].

Describe your personal style: Understated.

First piece you ever designed: In college I would make bead necklaces for friends based on music I was into at the time.

The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: The five-row reversible sapphire bracelet with a green-blue-violet fade on one side and pink-red-orange-yellow fade on the other.

It has 135 small links and drapes like fabric.

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

Spinel shoulderduster earrings

Best piece of advice you ever received: “The only way to fail is to give up.”

Worst piece of advice: “You should have your jewelry made overseas; it would be cheaper.”

First job ever: In high school, I was a gift wrapper for Gump’s during the holidays.

How did you get started designing jewelry? I apprenticed with a master jeweler for nine years and started to work out some ideas on the side with my father that eventually developed into our first collection, Celebration.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing?

Ski patroller: I spent five years on ski patrol at a local mountain; it was incredibly rewarding and fun. I love being outdoors.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Four Stacking Branch rings, representing my wife and three kids.

Items on your desk right now: Headphones so I can listen to music and podcasts while I work, pictures of my kids, tickets to upcoming L.A. Kings hockey games, and a box full of waxes and silver models I keep playing around with.

Songs on your playlist: “Impossible,” Anberlin; “Ain’t Nothing You Can Do,” Van Morrison; “My Body,” Young the Giant; “Honky Tonk Heroes,” Waylon Jennings; “Slippery People,” Talking Heads.

Exercise regimen: I swim with a masters group twice a week, run with friends twice a week, and try to get at least one bike ride each week as well.

What did you have for breakfast? Today was a strawberry croissant and a cappuccino. It’s usually some combination of pastry and coffee.

Guilty pleasure: My son got me hooked on Game of Thrones and I am just starting season 7. It’s a great way to spend time on a transatlantic flight.

Drink (daytime/evening): Beer/wine. Sometimes I reverse that depending on what I’m eating.

First website you check every day: Kitco for current gold pricing.

Scent: I love the desert after a rainstorm, night-blooming jasmine, the ocean, and a good pinot noir.

How do you unwind? Transcendental meditation and exercise.

Book you’re reading: The Age of Reason, Thomas Paine.

Book you’ve been meaning to get to: The Perfect Wave, Heinrich Päs.

Favorite movie: The Shawshank Redemption.

Who would play you in your life story? Ansel Elgort, I think, for the early years.

Personal motto: “The difference between an adventure and an ordeal is your attitude.”

JCKONLINE.COM

SKI SCENE: MBBIRDY/E+/GETTY; BEER: HYRMA/ISTOCK/GETTY; GAME OF THRONES: COURTESY HBO; THE SHAWSHANK REDEMPTION: MARY EVANS/RONALD GRANT/EVERETT COLLECTION

Large Mosaic ring with ombré sapphires

MAGAZINE FRESH NEW LOOK, SAME INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

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I couldn’t be more excited about the new JCK magazine, including the website and the social media.... YOU GUYS NAILED IT.

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—Ursula Piekut, marketing director, Treliss Worldwide Inc.

“ “

It is di�cult to take something that is already fabulous and MAKE IT EVEN MORE AMAZING!

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—Dallas Prince, designer

Absolutely LOVE the new JCK issue! Very well done, beautiful aesthetic, and SO MUCH FUN TO READ.

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—Maren Rosen, VP of merchandising, bridal and jewelry, Stuller

“ . .. .

L O V E Current. Luxury-focused. Smart. Great work. ” —Dan Scott, CMO, World Trade Jewelers

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Deco triple flower ring in 18k rose gold with pink, blue, and green sapphires and champagne diamonds, price on request, Ileana Makri, artemis@rainbowwave. com, ileanamakri.com; Mexican turquoise ring with diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $1,995, Sorellina, 646-745-6831, sorellinanewyork.com

FEATURES Photograph by Jean-Philippe Malaval

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FROM IRIDESCENT OPAL TO M U LT I C O L O R E D S A P P H I R E S TO TOURMALINE IN JUST ABOUT A N Y S H A D E Y O U C A N D R E A M O F, THESE LUSCIOUS GEMS A R E G U A R A N T E E D T O L E AV E YO U O N A R A I N B OW H I G H

Photography by Jean-Philippe Malaval Stylist Jen Smith Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi

STONE UN TURNED 18k white gold earrings with 45.31 cts. t.w. emerald beads and 0.4 ct. t.w. diamonds, $17,600, Nina Runsdorf, 212-3821243, nsrjewelry. com; turquoise dome ring in 18k gold with turquoise stone, $7,000, Established, 646-745-6831, establishedjewelry. com; 18k white gold large Treasure ring with 2.71 cts. t.w. green and 2.14 cts. t.w. burgundy diamonds, $17,300, Ileana Makri, artemis@

rainbowwave. com, ileanamakri. com; 14k yellow gold Nico necklace, $870, Selin Kent, sales@selinkent. com, selinkent. com; long bead and chain necklace with malachite, aquamarine, and tourmaline in 18k gold, $2,250, David Yurman, 212-752-4255, davidyurman.com; Dot bead malachite bracelet with sterling silver and cord, $450, John Hardy, 888-838-3022, johnhardy.com

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22k and 18k yellow gold earrings with 38.19 cts. t.w. tourmaline and 0.12 ct. t.w. diamond, $17,765, Margery Hirschey, sales@ margeryhirschey.com, margeryhirschey.com; large Botanical leaf ring in 18k rose gold with pink sapphires and champagne diamonds, $6,225, Michael Aram, 866-792-ARAM, michaelaram.com; 14k yellow gold multicolored cluster ring, $1,340, Eriness, orders@eriness. com, eriness.com; Dew Drop 18k yellow gold and 18k palladium white gold lariat with diamond, green garnet, and 11 mm Tahitian pearl, $2,485, K.Mita Design, 646633-4573, k-mita.com

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Single earring with garnet and diamond pavĂŠ bar, $1,885, Paige Novick, 212252-1441, paigenovick. com; 22.33 ct. Lapis Lace pendant, $5,625, Adel Chefridi, 866428-8777, chefridi.com 18k Cluster Trio ring with 2.85 cts. t.w. rubies and 0.189 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,500, Temple St. Clair, 212-219-8664, templestclair.com

Multicolored tourmaline Gypsy earrings in 14k yellow gold, $4,825, RetrouvaĂ­, 646-7456831, retrouvai.com; Desert Rising Collier necklace with tanzanite, Sleeping Beauty turquoise, iolite, orange sapphire, spessartite garnet, morganite, blue zircon, and strawberry, pink, seafoam green, and yellow tourmaline, $52,650, Marlo Laz, sales@marlolaz.com, marlolaz.com

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(P. 61) HOOD: STYLIST’S OWN; JACKET: LYKKE WULLF/LYKKEWULLF.COM; (THIS PAGE, P. 63 & 66) SWEATER & COAT: PILGRIM NYC/PILGRIMNYC.COM; (PP. 64–65) JACKET: HILDUR YEOMAN/HILDURYEOMAN.COM; (P. 67) DRESS AND COAT: CALVIN LUO/CALVINLUO.US

Prachi necklace with 170 cts. t.w. turquoise and 3.3 cts. t.w. diamonds in rhodium-plated sterling silver, $7,500, Modern Moghul, 361-239-8799, modernmoghul.com; 18k gold antique Hungarian opal and synthetic spinel earrings, $19,900, Renee Lewis, 212-580-3971, reneelewisjewelry. com; Barrels ring in 18k gold with cabochon amazonite, sapphires, and pavé diamonds, $1,500, Pure Form mixedmetal four-row ring in bronze, sterling silver, and brass with pavé cognac diamonds, $950, David Yurman, 212-7524255, davidyurman.com; 18k yellow gold hinged cuff with Sleeping Beauty turquoise and diamonds, $22,500, Dana Bronfman, sales@ danabronfman.com, danabronfman.com

SPOTLIGHT

GC LEA SMS HEROES WHETHER THEY’RE S U D D E N LY S E X Y OPAQUE STONES OR F A C E T E D F AV O R I T E S IN UNUSUAL HUES, THESE ARE THE FIVE T O WAT C H I N 2 0 1 8 .

FILL YOUR POCKETS A C C O R D I N G LY.

By Amy Elliott

D

ESIGNER DIANE VON Furstenberg has said that “all fashion begins in the street,” then works its way up to the runways. While the world of jewelry, where trends are slow to emerge and stick, isn’t seeing the exact same phenomenon, something similar is happening: Consumer interest in certain colored gemstones is being dictated by the small, artisan workshops of young urban designers.

Certainly the gems and color stories favored by more aspirational names—think David Yurman and Erica Courtney—or red-carpet mainstays, such as Irene Neuwirth and Lorraine Schwartz, are influential.

But when emerging designers share their work on social media or, just as often, are highlighted in the press, they create widespread demand for select colors and expose the consumer to stones she may never have known existed.

So what stones should be on your shopping list for 2018? Having collectively attended a battery of trade shows and press previews, we considered our own observations. We also consulted stonecutters and suppliers, in-the-know influencers, and designers (and their Instagram feeds) for their insights. The results are in: Here are the top five gems to scout for at February’s Tucson gem shows and beyond. Happy hunting!

SAPPHIRE No surprise that this gem is by far the hottest mover. What is surprising are the colors most in demand. “People are talking about sapphires in teal, gray, green, lime yellow, and slate,” says Eric Braunwart, owner of Columbia Gem House in Vancouver, Wash. “I don’t think most jewelers have even one of these colors in stock, but I’m getting requests to cut them because young customers are coming into the stores asking for what they see on Instagram.”

While it would be hard to claim that traditional blue sapphires from Myanmar, Kashmir, or Sri Lanka are “out,” it’s wise to consider alternative sources such as Africa, Australia, and the state of Montana, which tend to produce the colors that many indie designers—and their millennial clientele—are seeking.

“Off-color sapphires are my favorite colored gems,” affirms Fort Worth, Texas– based designer Megan Thorne. “Initially I was drawn to undertones of green and gray as a natural-looking choice over the often heat-treated, or extremely expensive, true blue hues, but now I celebrate the muted mossy and foggy shades, as well as those that are a bright mint-tinged teal, for the inherent individuality they offer.

Sorting through these sapphires feels so personal, as specific as selecting the perfect shade from the Pantone book.”

Further proof that sapphires in this family are worth a second look: A color dubbed Arcadia, a pretty green with blue undertones, appears in Pantone’s spring 2018 palette.

Bluez Curve necklace with deep and light blue sapphires in 14k yellow gold; $1,300; Ruta Reifen; info@ rutareifen.com; rutareifen.com Custom platinum earrings with 7.89 cts. t.w. cushion-cut forest-green Montana sapphires and 3.35 cts. t.w. diamonds; $24,859; Colin Skelly for Green Lake Jewelry Works; krista@ greenlakejewelry. com; greenlake jewelry.com Gunta ring with round blue-green Montana sapphire in recycled 14k yellow gold; $1,630; East Fourth Street; info@ eastfourthstreet.com; eastfourthstreet.com Mini Gateways pendant with blue sapphire in 18k yellow gold; $1,050; ARK; 646-745-6831; arkfinejewelry.com

GREEN LAKE EARRINGS: EDWIN ROSS III

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MALACHITE Nearly all of our sources cited green as a popular color going into 2018, making malachite even more of a sure thing (we’ve had our eye on it since the beginning of 2017). Seen at couture jewelers Taffin de Givenchy, Roberto Coin, and Van Cleef & Arpels, malachite has a graphic, glamorous quality that luxury jewelers and their clients appreciate.

It’s also a natural choice for many artisan studio jewelers like Jessica Winzelberg. “We already have a waitlist for our sold-out Mobile earring,” says the Los Angeles–based designer. “I started to see an uptick in interest late this summer. I think people realize they can wear malachite year-round—to a board meeting, a summer wedding, or a holiday party.”

Meanwhile, New York City–based designer Dana Bronfman, who plans to debut some malachite pieces at the JCK Tucson show, which runs from Jan. 31 to Feb. 3 at the JW Marriott Tucson Starr Pass Resort & Spa, is drawn to the stone’s unique swirls and banding. “I may purchase more malachite if I find some from a source I feel good about supporting and if [the parcel] aligns visually with my design aesthetic,” she says.

Malachite bauble ring in 18k yellow gold; $5,000; Established; 646-745-6831; established jewelry.com Bohème Dana ring with oval malachite in 18k yellow gold bezel on oxidized silver band; $580; Delphine Leymarie; sales@ delphineleymarie. com; delphine leymarie.com

Constellation beaded necklace in 18k yellow gold with malachite and diamonds; $12,500; Adam Foster Fine Jewelry; 314-771-3390; fosterjewelry.com Malachite Mobile earrings in sterling silver and 14k yellow gold; $355; Jessica Winzelberg; info@ jessicawinzelberg. com; shop.jessica winzelberg.com

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HEYMAN RING: COURTESY OF BRIAN MOGHADAM PHOTOGRAPHY FOR AGTA

BICOLOR TOURMALINE According to the American Gem Trade Association, demand for tourmalines—especially the bicolor and tricolor varieties—will grow even stronger in 2018. A survey of the 2018 AGTA Spectrum Awards submissions revealed several watermelon tourmalines and their ilk, with Oscar Heyman’s jaw-dropping 19.4 ct. emerald-cut tourmaline cocktail ring receiving a well-deserved honorable mention.

But jewelers and designers at every level find the bicolor tourmalines irresistible, including Lauren Kessler of New York City–based Lauren K. “I love that ‘bicolor’ can mean purple-pink, pink-blue, blue-green, or purple-green, so I am always intrigued and never bored,” she says. According to Kessler, the stone is well known to sophisticated consumers, and now it’s up to stores to stock it and make it more visible. “It’s a great conversation piece,” she notes.

“Consumers are naturally interested and curious when they see it and want to know more.”

Pink Mystique earrings with 17.02 cts. t.w. bicolor pink tourmaline, and pink sapphire, ruby, and diamond accents in 14k white and yellow gold; $4,160; K.Mita Design; 646-633-4573; k-mita.com Ring with 19.4 ct. emeraldcut bicolor tourmaline and diamonds in platinum; $70,000; Oscar Heyman; 212-593-0400; oscarheyman.com Joyce earrings with 55.36 cts. t.w. blue tourmaline and diamond accents in 18k yellow gold; $8,250; Lauren K; info@ laurenk.com; laurenk.com Green-blue tourmaline slice ring in 14k green gold backed with sterling silver; $1,585; Judi Powers; info@judipowersjewelry.com; judipowersjewelry.com

74 Fleur d’Amour ring with white diamonds, fancy yellow and fancy orange-brown diamonds, and red spinel in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Crevoshay; 505-8982888; crevoshay.com

Pink Peony ring with oval pink and lavender spinels and white diamonds in 14k white gold; price on request; Dallas Prince Designs; 310-625-0200; dallasprincedesigns.com

Rose Leaf necklace with black spinel and champagne diamonds in 18k rose gold; $19,000; Alex Soldier; 212-354-4244; alexsoldier.com

Reine ring with 8.69 ct. cushion-cut gray spinel and diamonds in 18k gold; price on request; Carley Jewels; carley@carleyjewels.com

SPINEL Like foodies with their affinity for exotic delicacies, jewelry insiders have always revered spinel as a stone of great beauty, and it’s just now starting to enter the mainstream.

“There are some astounding colors in the spinel family, and they have a high refractive index that makes them sparkle and delight the eye,” says Albuquerque, N.M.–based designer Paula Crevoshay, who is partial to the highly prized flamered variety from Myanmar.

Los Angeles designer Dallas Prince shares Crevoshay’s affection for the stone and confirms its growth in popularity. “Spinel has become the new sapphire,” she says. “As a certified hoarder of red spinel, I have now shifted my obsession to shades of pink, lavender, and rose.”

More emerging designers are beginning to catch on. This could have something to do with the AGTA’s 2016 naming of spinel as an alternate August birthstone or might be because David

Yurman, Alex Soldier, and some of the more commercial QVC lines often work with black spinel as a less expensive substitute for black diamonds.

“Spinel is a way to have that high-end couture look but keep your designs affordable,” says Prince, who suggests exploring the entire spectrum of shades.

Our take: Look for spinels from Tanzania, and consider stockpiling “off” colors—e.g., purplish grays, silver-tinged mauves, and steely blues—which have an unconventional beauty (and a better price point).

PINK OPAL With its gorgeous hue—deeper than that of angel skin coral, closer to a conch pearl (or a strawberry macaron)—and glossy, gumball-smooth texture, the appeal of this opaque gem from the Peruvian Andes needs little justification.

“Pink opal is also found in Australia, but doesn’t have the ‘fire’ unique to the more common Australian and Ethiopian opals,” says gemologist and blogger Erica Silverglide, aka @gemologygeek. “Yet they have a romantic quality that designers love to play with.”

One such designer is Pamela Huizenga. “Because it’s opal, it’s an easy stone to explain,” she says. “It’s a great opportunity to discuss all the various colors of opals, the regions where they’re found, and why pink is so coveted.

The color is flattering on every woman, and it’s one of my absolute favorites.”

More reasons to think pink: The spring 2018 runways were teeming with blush-to-flamingo shades, and floral-themed fashion jewelry and watches in a similar palette are likewise expected to be in vogue. That means retailers can easily position pink opal pieces as an on-trend yet elevated choice for accessorizing the latest styles.

Yin Yang ring in 14k yellow gold with pink opal and diamonds; $3,430; Retrouvaí; 646745-6831; retrouvai.com Akoya pearl and pink opal bangle in 14k gold– plated sterling silver; $187; Bounkit; 212244-1877; bounkit.com One-of-a-kind ring with carved pink opal and diamonds in 18k rose gold; price on request; Irene Neuwirth; 310-450-6063; ireneneuwirth.com

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LE X T V LO E L OK NEED NEW JEWELS FOR THE NEW YEAR? THESE FIVE TRENDS—SCULPTURAL BRASS S T Y L E S , S L I M A N D S E X Y L A R I AT S , KESHI PEARLS, OPAQUE STONES (THINK TIGER’S EYE, MALACHITE, AND MORE), A N D M I X - A N D - M AT C H E A R R I N G S — W I L L K E E P CUSTOMERS COMING BACK ALL YEAR LONG.

Photography by Stephen Lewis

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S E A C OF NI FROM SAFES TO SANDBAGS TO OFFSITE SERVERS, HERE’S HOW RETAILERS ARE PREPARING FOR NATURAL DISASTERS

By Martha C. White

Y C N RGE

M

OST OF US don’t spend much time dwelling on natural disasters, but last year’s trio of hurricanes—Harvey, Irma, and Maria—along with devastating wildfires in California brought the issue into sharper focus.

For jewelry retailers, the issue is one of safety for themselves, their families, and their workers. In addition to taking precautions to keep their homes and personal belongings safe, they have to ensure that their stores and everything in them—from data to the merchandise itself—weather the storm.

“This year, there have been so many events, one right after the other, and so many reasons why jewelers need to carefully consider what their business continuity plan is,” says David Sexton, vice president of loss prevention consulting at Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co. “The insurance industry is looking at this very carefully.”

ANTICIPATE RISKS To the extent that it is possible, good preparation is critical to getting back on

your feet after a natural disaster. Here, your insurance agent can be an invaluable guide. Policies contain many of the details needed to implement a contingency plan for business interruption.

“A big piece of that plan is always communication about the plan so people know how to mitigate the impact of these events,” Sexton says. “You’ve got key vendors, you’ve got key employees, you’ve got customers in some cases,” and all will need to be contacted as soon as possible after the fact if you experience losses.

Experts as well as jewelers who have been there say that when restarting a business after such an interruption, it’s imperative to have data—everything from inventory lists to vendor contracts—backed up off-site. If paper records are damaged or destroyed, you’ll need to be able to access that information. Even if it is stored on a computer in the store, be sure to have physical or digital backups on disks or an external hard drive/flash drive, on a remote server, or in the cloud.

“Having adequate records off-site is probably the biggest single thing retailers don’t do that causes them the most grief when the time comes,” says John J. Kennedy, president of the Jewelers’ Security Alliance. “They don’t think of all the things they need to know about what they have.”

PAVEL HLYSTOV/ISTOCK/GETTY

EME

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HAVE A DISASTER PLAN IN PLACE Securing a business against natural disasters is a multistep process.

Retailers in hurricane- or blizzard-prone parts of the country have a slight advantage, given that they usually have a window of two to three days to literally and figuratively batten down the hatches of their stores. That often means placing sandbags around the building and storm shutters over doors and windows to prepare for a hurricane, and preventing frozen pipes and arranging for ice and snow removal in the face of a winter storm. The lead time also gives retailers the chance to review and update their emergency plan to make sure the store’s employees, facility, and merchandise remain safe.

For disasters that bear down and become dangerous more quickly, such as earthquakes, wildfires, or tornadoes, savvy jewelers say the best course of action is maintaining a state of continual preparedness.

“We’ve learned a lot of things over the years,” says Sanat Bhindi, co-owner of Bhindi Jewelers in Artesia, Calif., an area prone to wildfires, including the Canyon Fire that ravaged nearby Anaheim in October. “This is the seventh or eighth time we evacuated.”

Just as each of his family members keeps a “go bag” of important personal identification documents and other essentials, Bhindi says the store’s emergency plans also include a go bag of critical paperwork. “We have a designated area with important documents. We have a lot of stuff in the safe—but documents are more important.”

Bhindi adds that he has prepared for the possibility that he might not have the chance to grab hard copies. “If we didn’t have time, we’ve scanned and put everything in the cloud.”

was modernized with new electricity and plumbing, and the vault was installed.

That vault is cemented and sealed in.”

While built-in vaults are generally the gold standard, they might be logistically or financially challenging for jewelers to acquire and install. “Very few have vaults,” Kennedy says. “They don’t have the space or inclination for a vault.”

Safes, although effective, can be vulnerable to the extent that they could be dislocated by fast-moving water or turned into a crucible in a particularly hot-burning fire. “When your entire building burns down, the temperature is so high it could melt everything in your safe,” Bhindi says.

Safes can also be taken outright. After Hurricane Katrina in 2005, Kennedy says, some would-be burglars attempted to breach damaged and unguarded jewelry stores in rowboats to steal valuables.

DON’T FORGET UTILITIES, STAFF, AND SECURITY

Even if a structure is undamaged by a natural disaster, power or water outages might prevent a retailer from reopening. Jewelers also have to assess whether it is safe—or even possible—for their employees to make it to work, and if the premises will be secure in a possibly chaotic environment. In the event of a power failure, a backup power generator can help your store stay open for business.

“The big issue with hurricanes is getting back online, getting your electricity and your water going, primarily,” Hartington says.

After Hurricane Irma, “we didn’t have water or electricity for over two weeks. That was a big issue for us. We take the storm shutters down, but you can’t really have anybody coming to work if you have no water and nobody’s coming shopping.”

Between lacking power and lacking water, the former is potentially more problematic because PROTECT YOUR INFORMATION digital phone and other data connections can be Data redundancy is crucial, Sexton agrees. “We disrupted. Power outages can hinder customer do have jewelers that have information backed and vendor transactions as well as make staff up in the cloud or at another business.” members potentially vulnerable to crime when “We’re pretty digital now in the sense that we lights and alarm systems fail. have servers in the store and we have servers in the Nicholas Boulle, director of marketing and sales cloud,” says Jay Hartington, co-owner of Marissa —Jay Hartington, Marissa Collections at Dallas-based de Boulle, which opened a store in Collections in Naples, Fla. He says his pre-hurricane Houston in 2015 that was closed for about a week in protocol includes a final backup and shutdown of critthe aftermath of Hurricane Harvey, says security was a ical technology. “You power down all of your servers and concern, especially because local law enforcement personnel stuff before the storm hits so there won’t be a short.” were busy rescuing stranded residents.

If property is damaged, or merchandise is damaged or stolen, “We stayed closed until we could get a security team on the premises,” Boulle having important information on hand means a store owner can start the ball says. “We always have at least one police officer in the store during store hours, rolling on filing insurance claims and getting a fire- or water-damaged facility and that was part of the equation. Looting is a worry, and that was definitely back in shape to serve customers. taken into consideration.”

“They have to have that information to substantiate a claim,” Sexton says.

Also good to have at the ready: contact information for contractors, cleanup companies, and landscapers who can start repairs as soon as possible.

MAINTAIN AWARENESS Ultimately, staying abreast of current news is the most important step jewelers can take to protect themselves and their property, Bhindi says.

KNOW HOW TO SECURE YOUR MERCHANDISE “When fires happen, people need to be aware of what’s happening around It can be nerve-racking for owners forced out by a mandatory evacuation to them,” he says. “Every jeweler should have the radio on.” The internet is also a spend days not knowing if or how badly their store was affected—and whether valuable resource: Google’s Crisis Map (google.org/crisismap/usa) offers valuable, their merchandise survived unscathed. up-to-date information about weather, fire, earthquake and similar hazards, and Retailers invest in safes or vaults to protect their merchandise. In fact, many inFacebook’s “safety check” feature lets people alert others that they are safe even if surance policies stipulate not only that jewelers use a safe or vault, but also the exact they have only fleeting cellular or internet connectivity. technical specifications that dictate how well it protects from fire, water, or theft.

The other important thing to remember, Boulle says, is to heed weather Dan Schuyler, co-owner of Lily & Co. Jewelers in Sanibel Island, Fla., a barforecasts and warnings from local authorities. “The biggest takeaway [from the rier island vulnerable to both winds and storm surges caused by hurricanes, says devastation caused by Hurricane Harvey in Houston] was the fact that oftenhis insurance policy has detailed instructions for how to secure merchandise in times you hear about these things happening,” he says, “and for the most part, the event of a storm. “Everything must be bagged up and stored in the vault so people never think it’s going to be that bad.” it’s waterproof ” in the event of a hurricane, Schuyler says. “In 1997 the building

“The big issue with hurricanes is getting back online and getting your electricity and your water going.”

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FROM SKYPE SESSIONS TO STORYTELLING, GIVING YOUR BUSINESS A QUICK AND EASY REFRESH DOESNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T NEED TO FEEL DAUNTING B y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d

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OR RETAILERS LOOKING to survive and thrive in 2018, it pays to sweat the small stuff. Modern consumers enjoy more ways than ever to browse and buy jewelry—on social media and through apps and Google searches, to name just a few.

But the spike in consumer entry points means today’s retailers need the dexterity of an octopus. After all, successful stores now exist on two planes—the physical and the virtual. So while your main entrance may be in order, your consumers are increasingly streaming in through the side doors.

How to keep up with it all? We’re here to help, with 50 ways to improve your jewelry retail business. These straighttalking suggestions were culled directly and indirectly from retail and jewelry industry leaders, social media and advertising, and big thinkers in the realm of customer experience. Here’s hoping these tips help take your business to new heights in 2018.

1

Window shopping at Sofia Kaman in Venice, Calif.

(FROM TOP) COURTESY SOFIA KAMAN FINE JEWELS; COURTESY OF TAPPER’S; HEATHER DONLAN

MERCHANDISING 1. Invest in eye-catching window displays year-round, not just during the holidays. Your windows are your invitation to shoppers.

2. Create an area in your store where customers can handle and testdrive product unassisted (think bracelet and ring bars).

3. Consider mixing super-popular vintage and estate pieces into your display of new jewelry.

Top retailers—including Barneys New York and New York’s London Jewelers—do it already.

4. Rotate merchandise regularly to keep the store looking fresh for shoppers.

EVENTS

5. Try hosting non-jewelry events such as speed-dating nights and art receptions to introduce potential new customers to your store.

6. Create a consumer advisory council to meet twice a year to discuss product trends and customer experiences that appeal to them (spring for drinks and snacks!).

7. If you have a stand-alone store, join forces with neighboring retailers to create a splashy evening or weekend shopping event.

8. Collaborate with a local nonprofit on an in-store event that gives back to the community—for example, an animal adoption evening or a clothing or food drive.

9. Invite loyal customers to an evening of styling fun when they bring their own jewelry to mix and match with new pieces or to consult with your staff about a redesign.

STAFF AND TRAINING

10. Focus on product storytelling in your sales training. When your employees convey an item’s intrinsic value in an entertaining way, they won’t need to haggle.

11. Screen potential new staffers for talent and experience by quizzing them on sales scenarios during the interview.

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A 40th-anniversary fete at Tapper’s in Troy, Mich.

12. Identify your employees’ selling styles—jewelry industry sales trainer Shane Decker defines them as “serpentine,” “missile,” and “sneak”—and train to those styles.

13. Bolster staff morale by weeding out sales associates who aren’t team players (for example, sales hogs and gossips).

14. Invite top sales associates to attend trade shows such as JCK Las Vegas—the experience stokes enthusiasm for the jewelry business that they will take back to your store.

SERVICE

15. Create a comfortable waiting area for your shoppers’ companions, even if you have room for only two cushy chairs and a small rug.

Inside Marissa Collections in Naples, Fla.

15

22

86 16. Offer shoppers a local craft beer—a drink you’d serve in your home—instead of Champagne.

17. Ask if you can charge customers’ phones. Or add a USB charging station to your space, as Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom have.

18. Buy a tablet or two expressly for clients’ kids to play with in the store. When children are happily occupied, their parents are more relaxed shoppers.

19. Offer Skype video sessions for clients to create custom pieces or send in repairs, with an online sign-up for Skype appointments.

A stylish (but still put-together) salesperson

20. Hold a weekly sales meeting, covering a revolving list of topics that includes product, sales, and gemological education.

21. Experiment with direct mail campaigns featuring clear calls to action and incentives (discounts/deals).

22. Modernize your store’s dress code by embracing business casual. Studies indicate that millennials don’t like their salespeople in suits.

23. Work with employees to personalize customer greetings, bypassing the generic “How are you doing today?” opener.

24. Discover—and then address—your sales team’s closing rate by adding a traffic counter to your door.

WEBSITE

25. Drive brick-and-mortar engagement by showcasing alluring products on your website marked as “in-store exclusives.”

26. Align your online and offline businesses by ensuring your website’s home page prominently displays your store’s address, phone number, and hours.

A Nordstrom ChargeItSpot

18

Kid-friendly tech toys

27. Redesign your e-commerce pages to feature large product images (show the pieces from multiple angles!) and minimal text.

28. Post your video content at night. A 2017 study by CoSchedule found that user engagement in video peaks at 9 p.m.

29. Verify your business on Google so it’s more searchable and will show up on Google Maps.

30. Add a rotating banner of suggested products, in the style of Sephora and Amazon, to your web product pages.

31. Offer free shipping and returns. You might have to hike your prices slightly, but these practices have become standard in contemporary retailing.

32. Host a photo contest—offering a covetable prize—on your website and social feeds to boost online engagement and drum up user-generated content.

33. Take a page from successful jewelry e-tailers and integrate an online tool that allows shoppers to personalize jewelry pieces, even if that customization is minimal.

SOCIAL MEDIA

34. Follow and study local and national style influencers on social media to stay on top of trends and in-demand styles.

35. Add social share buttons to your product pages so shoppers can save and share styles on their social feeds.

36. Cultivate a mix of product shots and faces from your store on Instagram; the social platform revealed recently that posts with faces garner 38 percent more user engagement.

37. Cut down on your “social work” by finding cool, relevant content to aggregate for your feeds on Feedly, which searches content based on keywords.

38. Brainstorm high-click social content by browsing Google Trends, which reveals what people are talking about online.

39. Tag local influencers on social media so they see what you’re posting and can potentially re-post to their feeds.

40. Establish a YouTube channel, with the goal of posting one video a week to start.

41. Partner with a popular influencer (think local!), trading product for sponsored posts; start slow and invest minimally.

42. Add excitement to your Instagram by inviting influencers to “take over” your feed for a week (review all content before it’s posted).

43. Focus on paid posts on Facebook, as organic reach on the platform has dwindled to nil.

44. Experiment with selling special items directly off Instagram.

45. Spotlight your staffers (and their stories) on your social feeds. Millennials and Gen Zers want to know who’s behind the businesses they patronize.

46. Add Instagram Stories to your social media to-do list. The tool lets you showcase behind-the-scenes moments for 24 hours.

DECOR

47. Do a New Year’s purge and cleaning of your store’s offices. Organization in any business starts from the top.

48. Replace antiseptic-smelling glass cleaner with a pleasantly (and not-too-strongly) scented natural one, and consider investing in a professional scent machine.

49. Look to Etsy and other marketplaces that feature bespoke products to find creative decor for the holidays—and year-round.

50. Beautify your space by assigning a staffer to buy flowers and create a pretty arrangement every week.

WOMEN: JULIEN L. BALMER/STOCKSY; CHILD: ROBERT D. BARNES/GETTY; CHARGING STATION: COURTESY OF CHARGEITSPOT

34

SALES

17

Influencer Katerina Perez, here at JCK Las Vegas 2017

A ST ORY T OL D CR E ATE S A DI A MON D S OL D. Every diamond has a story. Telling a compelling one is key to driving sales and creating happy customers.

That’s why AGS Laboratories offers Only My Diamond ™, an engaging online tool that brings the unique characteristics of your diamond to life in a visual, easy-to-understand format. And now, Only My Diamond ™ gives your customer the ability to share their diamond’s story with family and friends using the new social sharing feature!

Experience a revolution in selling. Go online for a demo—and for information on other valuable services, such as our diamond grading report for mounted goods.

Contact support@agslab.com or call 877.FOR.0CUT (877.367.0288) to learn more.

www.agslab.com

2018 VOTING GUIDE JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

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CONTENTS 92 93 95 99 100 101 102 103 104 107

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! VOTE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A LUXURY STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 Select the “best of the best” in jewelry design. Vote for your favorite piece within each product category, plus help determine the grand prize winner, which will be featured on the May 2018 cover of JCK magazine.

107 109 110

111 112 113 115 117 118 120 124 125

COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY DIAMOND JEWELRY COLORED STONE JEWELRY LAB-GROWN DIAMOND AND/OR GEMSTONE JEWELRY PEARL JEWELRY TANZANITE JEWELRY PLATINUM JEWELRY GOLD JEWELRY SILVER JEWELRY CONTEMPORARY METAL JEWELRY MIXED METAL JEWELRY FASHION/BRIDGE JEWELRY PERSONALIZED JEWELRY (BEADS, CHARMS, MESSAGING, INSPIRATIONAL) MEN’S JEWELRY BEST PRICE POINT BEST EARRING DESIGN BEST BRACELET DESIGN BEST RING DESIGN BEST NECKLACE DESIGN BEST BRIDAL DESIGN BEST STATEMENT PIECE INDEX

Voting is only open to jewelry store owners and employees.

ON PAGE 89:

VOTE NOW THROUGH 02/23 AT JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM

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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

2017 Grand Prize Winner, Shy Creation

2018

VOTING GUIDE

Welcome to the 11th annual JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards Voting Guide!

W

e are thrilled with the entries in this year’s design competition, and are excited to present some of the finest jewelry companies and designs in the industry.

Every vote counts and voting for your favorites is easy: 1.

2.

3.

Review the 2018 Voting Guide on the following pages. Circle/note your favorites within each product category and price point.

Log on to JewelersChoiceAwards.com and place your votes using this Voting Guide as a reference.

Select your ultimate favorite. When finished voting, you’ll be taken to a page showcasing your votes.

Please select your over all “favorite among favorites.”

The piece with the most votes in this round will be honored as our grand prize winner and be featured on the May 2018 cover of JCK magazine.

All first-place winners will be featured in JCK magazine, and the first-, second-, and third-place winners will be showcased in our “Best of the Best” supplement to JCK in this May’s issue.

MARK SMELZER, PUBLISHER

Many companies have used their wins to promote their products in print, online, and at trade shows throughout the year. We’re delighted to provide them with this opportunity and to provide you, our readers, with hundreds of gorgeous and inspirational pieces to consider.

Help us name “The Best of the Best” in jewelry design by placing your votes today!

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

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2018

VOTING GUIDE

COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY $10,000 & UNDER

Jye’s International Inc. • $2,450

Asher Jewelry • $1,495

Gabriel & Co. • $1,845

Lika Behar Collection • $3,080

Neon Gems Inc. • $10,000

Jye’s International Inc. • $18,920

Neon Gems Inc. • $60,000

Novel Collection • $190,000

Paula Crevoshay • $98,300

COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY OVER $10,000

Novel Collection • $520,000

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DIAMOND JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER Asher Jewelry • $1,195

Berco Jewelry Company • $1,800

Color Merchants / Brevani • $1,650

Gabriel & Co. • $1,750

H.K.Designs • $599

Maui Divers Jewelry • $2,195

Shy Creation • $2,480

DIAMOND JEWELRY $2,501 – $10,000

Asher Jewelry • $2,835

Alon Vivat • $6,500-$25,000

Amden Jewelry • $4,495 (center stone not included)

East Arts Jewelry Mfy. LTD • $4,500

El Dorado Jewelry Inc. • $9,500 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

93

2018

VOTING GUIDE

DIAMOND JEWELRY $2,501 – $10,000

Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd • $2,560

Gabriel & Co. • $8,020

L’amor Jewelry Inc • $8,800

Nelson Jewelry USA Inc. • $7,500

SU-RAJ INTER GOLD INC • $5,000

C.Krishniah Chetty & Sons • $17,215

Gabriel & Co. • $14,885

L’amor Jewelry Inc. • $13,300

L’amor Jewelry Inc • $14,400

DIAMOND JEWELRY OVER $10,000

Jye’s International Inc. • $36,500

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Neon Gems Inc. • $18,000

NORMAN SILVERMAN DIAMONDS • $225,000

QAYTEN • $18,500

COLORED STONE JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER Siera Jewelry Inc. • $105,030

Anye • $2,200

Anye • $875

Asher Jewelry • $1,295

Berco Jewelry Company • $695

BERND WOLF GmbH • $679

CIRCLE COMPANY (HONG KONG), LIMITED • $665

CIRCLE COMPANY (HONG KONG), LIMITED • $1,160

Costar Imports, Inc. • $2,100

Costar Imports, Inc. • $2,250

Costar Imports, Inc. • $1,350 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

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2018

VOTING GUIDE

COLORED STONE JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER Costar Imports, Inc. • $2,250

East Arts Jewelry Mfy. LTD • $1,699

El Dorado Jewelry Inc. • $2,480

Elisa Ilana Jewelry • $1,990

JC Blackburn Inc. • $1,750 (center stone not included)

Lika Behar Collection • $2,150

Liven Co. • $798

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $1,795

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! Stuller, Inc. • $996

96

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM

COLORED STONE JEWELRY $2,501 – $10,000 Ande Jewelry • $3,125

Anderson Jewelers • $3,000

BELLARRI • $7,990

BELLARRI • $4,500

BELLARRI • $2,750

Beverley K • $4,389

DACORA JEWELERS • $9,500

Denny Wong Designs • $9,000

Huatai u-tech titanium jewelry co., ltd • $9,500

LALI Jewels • $9,990

Lika Behar Collection • $5,500

Noush jewelry • $9,800

Omi Privé • $10,000

Oro Alexander Inc. • $5,300 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

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2018

VOTING GUIDE

COLORED STONE JEWELRY $2,501 – $10,000 Parlé Jewelry Designs • $9,580

Yael Designs • $9,867

Phoenix Jewellers Inc. • $5,100

Yael Designs • $6,608

COLORED STONE JEWELRY OVER $10,000

Graziela • $52,000

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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

BELLARRI • $11,750

C.Krishniah Chetty & Sons • $11,000

Lee Jewellery Co., Ltd • $50,000

Liberty Diamonds • $28,500

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE!

YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM

Oscar Heyman • $240,000

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $10,990

philip zahm designs • $39,000

TAMARA COMOLLI Fine Jewelry GmbH • $56,000

Wendy Brandes Jewelry • $19,500

Yael Designs • $13,321

ALTR • $250,000

Chatham • $16,500

Chatham • $6,900

Lafonn • $290

LAB-GROWN DIAMOND AND/ OR GEMSTONE JEWELRY ALL PRICES

Chatham • $10,300

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

99

2018

VOTING GUIDE

PEARL JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER

BERND WOLF GmbH • $599

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $2,350

Belle Étoile • $875

Gabriel & Co. • $350

SHR Jewelry Group • $169

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $4,500

Brenda Smith Jewelry • $10,000

Galatea: Jewelry by Artist • $3,500

Galatea: Jewelry by Artist • $2,875

PEARL JEWELRY OVER $2,500

Galatea: Jewelry by Artist • $9,500

100

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

Jye’s International Inc. • $10,811

Lika Behar Collection • $2,640

TANZANITE JEWELRY $10,000 & UNDER Asher Jewelry • $2,500

East Arts Jewelry Mfy. LTD • $3,599

Beverley K • $1,859

Jye’s International Inc. • $7,600

TANZANITE JEWELRY OVER $10,000 C.Krishniah Chetty & Sons • $18,900

Mindham Fine Jewellery • $22,000

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! Yael Designs • $20,175

YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

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2018

VOTING GUIDE

PLATINUM JEWELRY $10,000 & UNDER

JC Blackburn Inc. • $2,050 (center stone not included)

Beverley K • $1,395 (center stone not included)

Gabriel & Co. • $7,500

Malo Creations • $9,999

Tasha R, LLC • $1,749 (center stone not included)

Gabriel & Co. • $10,400

Jörg Heinz GmbH & Co. KG • $19,000

Michael Schofield & Co. • $14,625

Neon Gems Inc. • $15,000

PLATINUM JEWELRY OVER $10,000

Jye’s International Inc. • $162,200

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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

Omi Privé • $76,000

philip zahm designs • $48,000

Schaffrath • $28,950

GOLD JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER Yael Designs • $44,928

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $2,500

Gabriel & Co. • $2,045

Jye’s International Inc. • $2,460

Marika Desert-Gold • $1,700

Maui Divers Jewelry • $795

Shy Creation • $1,680

Stuller, Inc. • $879

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM Timeless Treasure Jewelry • $850 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

103

2018

VOTING GUIDE

GOLD JEWELRY OVER $2,500 Beverley K • $9,889

Gabriel & Co. • $2,785

Lika Behar Collection • $5,830

Margisa • $3,450

Neon Gems Inc. • $5,000

QAYTEN • $9,400

SUNCHIN JEWELRY COMPANY • $12,500

Thyreos Vassiliki • $29,500

SILVER JEWELRY $500 & UNDER Vahan Jewelry • $23,750

104

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $450

Belle Étoile • $450

BERND WOLF GmbH • $399

Brenda Smith Jewelry • $500

Ed Levin Jewelry Inc • $330

ELLE TIME & JEWELRY • $175

Frederic Duclos • $390

Gabriel & Co. • $275

MeditationRings • $299

Samuel B. Collection • $426

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $700

Andréa Candela • $900

Breuning • $612

Breuning • $876

SILVER JEWELRY $501 – $1,000

Belle Étoile • $595

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

105

2018

VOTING GUIDE

SILVER JEWELRY $501 – $1,000

Lika Behar Collection • $830

Frederic Duclos • $510

Gabriel & Co. • $600

Lilly Barrack Ltd • $699

PiYaRo by Aiya Designs • $999

Gabriel & Co. • $1,015

MAHENDI LlLC • $1,800

Rozaliya Jewelry • $ 3,500

Vahan Jewelry • $5,250

SILVER JEWELRY OVER $1,000

PiYaRo by Aiya Designs • $3,450

106

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

CONTEMPORARY METAL JEWELRY $500 & UNDER Frederick Goldman Inc. • $500

Thorsten • $400

Malo Creations • $249

Thorsten • $500

CONTEMPORARY METAL JEWELRY OVER $500 Gellner GmbH & Co. KG • $8,350

Lashbrook • $1,549

Lashbrook • $687

Maria Rzewuska Designerschmuck • $850

MIXED METAL JEWELRY $1,000 & UNDER Eva Stone • $350

Frederick Goldman Inc. • $925 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

107

2018

VOTING GUIDE

MIXED METAL JEWELRY $1,000 & UNDER

Lika Behar Collection • $310

Gabriel & Co. • $450

Lashbrook • $897

Maui Divers Jewelry • $775

Samuel B. Collection • $575

MIXED METAL JEWELRY OVER $1,000 Alamea Hawaii LLC • $1,800

Thorsten • $400

ALOR • $1,450

108

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

Dana Bronfman • $6,125

Gabriel & Co. • $ 1,015

K.Mita Design LLC • $1,605

Lika Behar Collection • $1,760

Malo Creations • $1,499

philip zahm designs • $46,000

Stuller, Inc. • $1,587 (center stone not included)

Vahan Jewelry • $5,625

Belle Étoile • $450

ELLE TIME & JEWELRY • $495

ÉVOCATEUR • $398

Gabriel & Co. • $450

Lika Behar Collection • $320

Marahlago • $291

Maria Shireen • $45 - $75

FASHION/ BRIDGE JEWELRY $500 & UNDER

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

109

2018

VOTING GUIDE

FASHION/ BRIDGE JEWELRY OVER $500

BERND WOLF GmbH • $799

7cs • $1,635

Belle Étoile • $575

Costar Imports, Inc. • $4,200

Gabriel & Co. • $1,135

PERSONALIZED JEWELRY

(BEADS, CHARMS, MESSAGING, INSPIRATIONAL) $500 & UNDER Berco Jewelry Company • $115

Lika Behar Collection • $790

Kindred Keepsake Jewelry • $300 $4,000

110

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

Stuller, Inc. • $408 (center stone not included)

PERSONALIZED JEWELRY

(BEADS, CHARMS, MESSAGING, INSPIRATIONAL) OVER $500 Dorian & Rose • $2,250

Gabriel & Co. • $3,380

Gabriel & Co. • $700

Liven Co. • $798

MEN’S JEWELRY $1,000 & UNDER A.R.Z Steel • $140

Elisa Ilana Jewelry • $229

Italgem Steel • $159

Samuel B. Collection • $699

Thorsten • $400

Thorsten • $500

William Henry • $495 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

111

2018

VOTING GUIDE

MEN’S JEWELRY OVER $1,000 7cs • $1,500

Lashbrook • $5,080

Lashbrook • $3,110

Malo Creations • $2,499

Paragon • $3,800

Shy Creation • $2,300

William Henry • $1,950

BEST PRICE POINT $500 & UNDER Berco Jewelry Company • $365

112

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

Elisa Ilana Jewelry • $399

Gabriel & Co • $440

Maui Divers Jewelry • $495

BEST PRICE POINT $501 – $1,000 Alamea Hawaii LLC • $550

Gabriel & Co. • $935

BEST EARRING DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER Alamea Hawaii LLC • $2,350

Tasha R, LLC • $749 (center stone not included)

Ed Levin Jewelry Inc • $300

Gabriel & Co. • $2,060

Kiseki • $1,800

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! Shy Creation • $1,320

YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

113

2018

VOTING GUIDE

BEST EARRING DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000 Dallas Prince Designs • $9,950

Gabriel & Co. • $5,695

Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd • $5,380

Nelson Jewelry USA Inc. • $3,000

Oro Alexander Inc. • $4,550

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $6,195

Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. • $2,999

BEST EARRING DESIGN OVER $10,000 Bapalal Keshavlal • $43,820

114

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

C.Krishniah Chetty & Sons • $28,620

NORMAN SILVERMAN DIAMONDS • $90,000

Novel Collection • $247,000

Novel Collection • $180,000

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $10,500

Penny Preville • $10,595

SU-RAJ INTER GOLD INC • $12,000

Alamea Hawaii LLC • $650

Belle Étoile • $595

Ed Levin Jewelry Inc • $671

Gabriel & Co. • $1,905

Heart-Full Hands Jewelry • $90

Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd • $2,260

Shy Creation • $2,040

BEST BRACELET DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

115

2018

VOTING GUIDE

BEST BRACELET DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000

I.Reiss • $4,475

East Arts Jewelry Mfy. LTD • $6,799

Gabriel & Co. • $9,195

Shy Creation • $5,700

SU-RAJ INTER GOLD INC • $6,000

BEST BRACELET DESIGN OVER $10,000 Tasha R, LLC • $6,249

Bapalal Keshavla • $38,960

116

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

ART DIAMOND JEWELRY INC • $125,000

Gabriel & Co. • $11,485

Jye’s International Inc. • $17,600

BEST RING DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER Belle Étoile • $350

prince jewelers • $60,000

Brilliant Earth • $2,390

Color Merchants / Brevani • $1,650

Continental Jewellery (MFG) Ltd. • $1,500

Gabriel & Co.• $1,780

Korite • $1,375

Marika Desert-Gold • $1,100

Maui Divers Jewelry • $1,995

Oro Alexander Inc. • $2,250

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $1,545

CrownRing • $2,795

Gabriel & Co.• $3,860

BEST RING DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

117

2018

VOTING GUIDE

BEST RING DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000 I.Reiss • $2,875

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $4,500

BEST RING DESIGN OVER $10,000 Tasha R, LLC • $2,749

Dallas Prince Designs • $32,950

Ande Jewelry • $10,225

Mindham Fine Jewellery • $27,000

NORMAN SILVERMAN DIAMONDS •

Ande Jewelry • $1,642

Gabriel & Co. • $1,670

$162,000

BEST NECKLACE DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER

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Parlé Jewelry Designs • $1,495

PiYaRo by Aiya Designs • $1,625

Shy Creation • $1,000

BEST NECKLACE DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000 Tasha R, LLC • $2,499

Gabriel & Co. • $5,455

Jye’s International Inc. • $4,055

NEETA GUPTA • $3,000

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $10,000

Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. • $3,599

Shy Creation • $2,900

ZEN DIAMOND • $4,890

A G GEMS Inc • $35,000

Continental Jewellery (MFG) Ltd. • $25,000

BEST NECKLACE DESIGN OVER $10,000

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

119

2018

VOTING GUIDE

BEST NECKLACE DESIGN OVER $10,000 Gabriel & Co. • $21,470

Neon Gems Inc. • $35,000

Jye’s International Inc. • $30,000

Parlé Jewelry Designs • $32,095

BEST BRIDAL DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER Berco Jewelry Company • $1,100 (center

Beverley K • $2,475 (center stone not included)

Continental Jewellery (MFG) Ltd. • $1,400

Finer Jewelry, Inc • $2,200

stone not included)

Brilliant Earth • $1,850 (center stone not

included)

120

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

(center stone not included)

Frederick Goldman Inc. • $1,225 (center

stone not included)

JEWELEX NY LTD • $1,749 (center stone not

Gabriel & Co. • $2,075 (center stone not included)

JC Blackburn Inc. • $1,450 (center stone not

included)

included)

included)

JEWELEX NY LTD • $1,999 (center stone not

Martin Flyer • $2,499

Martin Flyer • $1,999

Maui Divers Jewelry • $1,795

Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd • $2,390

Shy Creation • $1,960 (center stone not

Stuller, Inc. • $2,352 (center stone not included)

Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. • $1,999 (center

stone not included)

included)

(center stone not included)

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! Tasha R, LLC • $1,879 (center stone not included)

YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

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2018

VOTING GUIDE

BEST BRIDAL DESIGN $2,501 – $5,000 7cs • $2,700

Berco Jewelry Company • $3,400 (center

stone not included)

Brilliant Earth • $4,950

Continental Jewellery (MFG) Ltd. • $3,300

Frederick Goldman Inc. • $2,600 (center

Frederick Goldman Inc. • $3,295 (center

Gabriel & Co. • $3,375 (center stone not

JEWELEX NY LTD • $3,999

stone not included)

included)

stone not included)

BEST BRIDAL DESIGN $5,001 – $10,000 Shy Creation • $4,300 (center stone not included)

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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

Gabriel & Co. • $5,475 (center stone not included)

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE!

Leo Schachter Diamonds • $6,999

YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM

Martin Flyer • $8,999

BEST BRIDAL DESIGN OVER $10,000 Christopher Designs • $16,483

CrownRing • $14,000

Cynthia Britt • $56,000

Neon Gems Inc. • $28,000

NORMAN SILVERMAN DIAMONDS • $665,000

Omi Privé • $49,750

Stuller, Inc. • $37,725

Wendy Brandes Jewelry • $28,000

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

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2018

VOTING GUIDE

BEST STATEMENT PIECE $30,000 & UNDER Katherine LeGrand -Custom Goldsmith • $26,000

Kiseki • $10,000

BEST STATEMENT PIECE OVER $30,000 Mason-Kay Jade • $15,200

J. R. Dunn Jewelers • $450,000

Ambience INC • $190,000

Jye’s International Inc. • $35,550

Omi Privé • $200,000

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! Parlé Jewelry Designs • $34,000

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YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM

INDEX 7cs ...........................................................................110, 112, 122 A G GEMS Inc..........................................................119 A.R.Z Steel ..............................................................111 Alamea Hawaii LLC................................................100, 103, 104, 105, 108, 113, 115 Alon Vivat ...............................................................93 ALOR .......................................................................108 ALTR ........................................................................99 Ambience INC ........................................................124 Amden Jewelry ......................................................93 Ande Jewelry .........................................................97, 118 Anderson Jewelers ................................................97 Andréa Candela .....................................................105 Anye ........................................................................95 ART DIAMOND JEWELRY INC ...............................116 Asher Jewelry ........................................................92, 93, 95, 101 Bapalal Keshavlal ..................................................114, 116 BELLARRI ................................................................97, 98 Belle Étoile .............................................................100, 105, 109, 110, 115, 117 Berco Jewelry Company .......................................93, 95, 110, 112, 120, 122 BERND WOLF GmbH ..............................................95, 100, 105, 110 Beverley K ..............................................................97, 101, 102, 104, 120 Brenda Smith Jewelry ...........................................100, 105 Breuning .................................................................105 Brilliant Earth .........................................................117, 120, 122 C.Krishniah Chetty & Sons ....................................94, 98, 101, 114 Chatham .................................................................99 Christopher Designs..............................................123 CIRCLE COMPANY (HONG KONG), LIMITED ........95 Color Merchants / Brevani ....................................93, 117 Continental Jewellery (MFG) Ltd..........................117, 119, 120, 122 Costar Imports, Inc. ...............................................95, 96, 110 CrownRing..............................................................117, 123 Cynthia Britt ...........................................................123 DACORA JEWELERS...............................................97 Dallas Prince Designs ...........................................114, 118 Dana Bronfman......................................................108 Denny Wong Designs ............................................97 Dorian & Rose ........................................................ 111 East Arts Jewelry Mfy. LTD....................................93, 96, 101, 116 Ed Levin Jewelry Inc ..............................................105, 113, 115 El Dorado Jewelry Inc. ..........................................93, 96 Elisa Ilana Jewelry .................................................96, 111, 112 ELLE TIME & JEWELRY ...........................................105, 109

Eva Stone................................................................107 ÉVOCATEUR ...........................................................109 Finer Jewelry, Inc ..................................................120 Frederic Duclos ......................................................105, 106 Frederick Goldman Inc. .........................................107, 121, 122 Gabriel & Co. ..........................................................92, 93, 94, 100, 102, 103, 104, 105, 106, 108, 109, 110, 111, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120, 121, 122 Galatea: Jewelry by Artist.....................................100 Gellner GmbH & Co. KG .........................................107 Graziela ..................................................................98 H.K.Designs............................................................93 Heart-Full Hands Jewelry .....................................115 Huatai u-tech titanium jewelry co., ltd ................97 I.Reiss .....................................................................116, 118 Italgem Steel ..........................................................111 J. R. Dunn Jewelers ...............................................124 JC Blackburn Inc. ...................................................96, 102, 121 JEWELEX NY LTD ...................................................121, 122 Jörg Heinz GmbH & Co. KG ...................................102 Jye’s International Inc...........................................92, 101, 102, 103, 116, 119, 120, 124 K.Mita Design LLC .................................................109 Katherine LeGrand -Custom Goldsmith...............124 Kindred Keepsake Jewelry ...................................110 Kiseki ......................................................................113, 124 Korite ......................................................................117 L’amor Jewelry Inc .................................................94 Lafonn .....................................................................99 LALI Jewels ............................................................97 Lashbrook...............................................................107, 108, 112 Lee Jewellery Co., Ltd ...........................................98 Leo Schachter Diamonds ......................................123 Liberty Diamonds ..................................................98 Lika Behar Collection ............................................92, 96, 97, 101, 104, 106, 108, 109, 110 Lilly Barrack Ltd .....................................................106 Liven Co. .................................................................96, 111 MAHENDI LlLC........................................................106 Malo Creations.......................................................102, 107, 109, 112 Marahlago ..............................................................109 Margisa ...................................................................104 Maria Rzewuska Designerschmuck .....................107 Maria Shireen.........................................................109 Marika Desert-Gold ...............................................103, 117 Martin Flyer ............................................................121, 123 Mason-Kay Jade ....................................................124 Maui Divers Jewelry ..............................................93, 103, 108, 113, 117, 121 MeditationRings ....................................................105 Michael Schofield & Co. ........................................102

Mindham Fine Jewellery.......................................101, 118 Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd .................................94, 114, 115, NEETA GUPTA......................................................... 119 Nelson Jewelry USA Inc. .......................................94, 114 Neon Gems Inc.......................................................92, 95, 102, 104, 120, 123 NORMAN SILVERMAN DIAMONDS .......................95, 115, 118, 123 Noush jewelry ........................................................97 Novel Collection.....................................................92, 115 Omi Privé ................................................................97, 103, 123, 124 Oro Alexander Inc. .................................................97, 114, 117 Oscar Heyman .......................................................99 Paragon ..................................................................112 Parlé Jewelry Designs ........................................... 96, 98, 99, 114, 115, 117, 118, 119, 120, 124 Paula Crevoshay ....................................................92 Penny Preville ........................................................115 Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. ......................................114, 119, 121 philip zahm designs ..............................................99, 103, 109 Phoenix Jewellers Inc. ..........................................98 PiYaRo by Aiya Designs ........................................106, 119 prince jewelers ......................................................117 QAYTEN ..................................................................95, 104 Rozaliya Jewelry ....................................................106 Samuel B. Collection .............................................105, 108, 111 Schaffrath ...............................................................103 SHR Jewelry Group ...............................................100 Shy Creation...........................................................93, 103, 112, 113, 115, 116, 119, 121, 122 Siera Jewelry Inc. ..................................................95 Stuller, Inc. .............................................................96, 103, 109, 110, 121, 123 SU-RAJ INTER GOLD INC.......................................94, 115, 116 SUNCHIN JEWELRY COMPANY ............................104 TAMARA COMOLLI Fine Jewelry GmbH ..............99 Tasha R, LLC ...........................................................102, 113, 116, 118, 119, 121 Thorsten .................................................................107, 108, 111 Thyreos Vassiliki ....................................................104 Timeless Treasure Jewelry ...................................103 Vahan Jewelry .......................................................104, 106, 109 Wendy Brandes Jewelry .......................................99, 123 William Henry ........................................................111, 112 Yael Designs ...........................................................98, 99, 101, 103 ZEN DIAMOND .......................................................119

This company index is published as a convenience and not as part of the Jewelers’ Choice Awards Contract. Every care has been taken to index companies correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page numbers, or failure to insert of include information.

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

125

RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! VOTE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 Select the “best of the best” in jewelry design.

Vote for your favorite piece within each product category, plus help determine the grand prize winner, which will be featured on the May 2018 cover of JCK magazine.

Voting is only open to jewelry store owners and employees.

VOTE NOW AT JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM 126

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

Now through February 23rd

JANUARY 20–22, 2018 DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOTEL MIAMI AIRPORT & CONVENTION CENTER

The JIS Januar y Show is the 2nd largest JIS show of the year and one of the largest jewelr y trade shows in the Americas immediately following

the holiday season. The Show is ideal ly timed for restocking and reconnecting with vendors af ter the holidays and to explore the newest Spring trends. Featuring a diverse product selection from hundreds of exhibitors, an easy to shop floor plan, and the JIS Matchmaking

Program, it is an event your store can’t miss.

REGISTER TODAY AT:

JISSHOW.COM/JANUARY

NEW LOCATION!

J U N E 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4 , 2 01 8 F R I DAY T H R O U G H M O N DAY MANDALAY BAY RESORT + CASINO | LAS VEGAS, NV When the industry called for a jewelry trade event that was dedicated to immediate at-show delivery

during Las Vegas Jewelry Week, JIS heard its calling. Jewelers International Showcase (JIS) was the atshow delivery pioneer more than four decades ago, and continues to be the leader of this business.

With its history and knowledge of the transactional channel, JIS was the perfect brand to start a show the industry so desperately wanted.

GET THE MOST UP TO DATE SHOW INFORMATION AT:

JISSHOW.COM/EXCHANGE

S T AY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S E X C H A N G E

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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

THE VAULT

FEATHER WEIGHTS The 22k yellow gold ring features

PHEASANT THOUGHTS The piece was made at the Gem Palace

15.45 cts. t.w. diamonds, 24 cts. t.w. rubies, 1 ct. t.w. sapphires, and 0.3 ct. t.w. emeralds. Shalini says that it’s “quintessentially a wedding set element—but I could see it being worn to a cocktail party by one of my South American clients.”

workshop in Jaipur, and Shalini recalls that the biggest challenge in its creation was “balancing the weight across all the elements. The structure had to be perfected several times. It had to be truly wearable.”

FANTASTIC BEAST

RARE BIRD The fabrication process began

PEACOCKS ARE A signature motif for Sanjay Kasliwal, the Jaipur, India–based jewelry firm named for its founder, an eighth-generation member of the family behind the city’s venerated Gem Palace. Shalini Kasliwal, Sanjay’s daughter and the firm’s North American president, helmed the creation of this particular peacock after falling hard for “the intricate structure of it,” she says. The ring is actually a slightly updated reproduction of one of Sanjay’s earliest designs, with its motif and lines “rooted in traditional Mughal Empire style.” —EMILI VESILIND JCKONLINE.COM

with Sanjay making a sketch of his old design with a brand-new gem pattern—his daughter’s idea.

At one point, he was tempted to keep the ring all gold. “But we are so fond of colored stones,” she says—and voilà, insta-dazzle!

THE VAULT

GOLD Large oval-link open 17-inch chain in 18k gold; $1,320; Delphine Leymarie; sales@ delphineleymarie.com; delphineleymarie.com

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A CALL TO CHARMS

Boheme Mini Unicorn Horn charm in 18k gold; $275

Charm bracelets will always have a place in collectors’ hearts (and jewelry boxes), but don’t overlook the more wearable—and, frankly, more easily changeable—charm necklace. At a recent press preview, we were completely, well, charmed by Delphine Leymarie’s very collectible and affordable ($275–$795 retail) gold, gemstone, and enamel danglers. The 10 pieces—in her signature recycled 18k gold—slide easily onto a gold or oxidized silver clicker ring, which in turn latches onto one of Leymarie’s beaded or metal chains.

(You can even clasp them onto an ear wire or hoop earring; see the designer’s cool Instagram demos at @delphinejewelry.) Leymarie is planning diamond updates for a couple of charms, plus “a larger moon, cactuses, a heartbeat, and more gem clusters,” she says. “And a few others to surprise you with!”

Facette Opal Skull charm in 18k gold; $640

Boheme Blue Crescent Moon charm with boulder opal, lapis lazuli, turquoise, and diamonds in 18k gold; $615

Boheme Clicker Charm Ring in 18k gold; $359

—MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

HOT STOCK TIP

LOVE-GO-ROUND

“The most important thing is to feel loved, especially for those going through difficult times,” says Jennifer Lau, founder of New York City–based jewelry brand Genevieve Lau. So with every purchase of a necklace from her Loved charm necklace collection, Lau donates another necklace to a woman with cancer. At press time, around 280 necklaces had been donated. Says Lau: “We’ve created a Loved movement!” —EMILI VESILIND 14k rose gold necklaces with pink sapphires and diamonds; $2,800–$3,200; genevievelau.com

JCKONLINE.COM

22K MAGIC IN THE AIR! (LOOK OUT!) SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE.

THE VAULT

BRIDAL

34Ă&#x2DC;24

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4/$Ă&#x2DC;9 CANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T-MISS COLLECTION

LOVE ITALIAN STYLE To celebrate its 50th anniversary, Italian fine jewelry firm Picchiotti has debuted an opulent new wedding jewelry rangeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;featuring engagement rings, wedding bands, and jewelry intended for the day of the celebrationâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;that epitomizes classic Italian style, in all its gemmy glory. This is a collection for your more-is-more clients: Its ultraglamorous styles include a round-cut diamond ring set with contrasting lines of black onyx, and a bypass ring wreathed in baguette-cut white diamonds and topped by two yellow diamonds chiseled into hearts. Many of the styles make use of the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Xpandable technology, whichâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;through not-insignificant feats of jewelry engineeringâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;allows rings to expand up to two sizes. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;EMILI VESILIND

18k white gold earrings with 11.68 cts. t.w. diamonds; $74,600

18k white gold ring with 7.11 ct. heartshape Burmese ruby; $189,750

18k white gold Xpandable band with 14.19 cts. t.w. diamonds; $91,700Â

Platinum ring with 5.26 ct. cushion-cut diamond surrounded by 4.94 cts. t.w. diamonds; $434,050; Picchiotti; info@picchiotti.it; 855-570-9900; picchiotti.it

JORDAN ALEXANDERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEW BRIDAL LINE! SEE jckonline.com/topics/bridal FOR THAT AND MORE.

HOT STOCK TIP

CHEER PERFECTION Alternative engagement ring designs with colored center stones have long been the forte of Maniamania, a millennial-friendly fine jewelry collection based in Sydney and New York City. The brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest engagement ring design, Beloved, retains the atelierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature edge but also features a handful of feminine-feeling hallmarks borrowed from antique rings, including a sharply tiered shank and a rose-cut center stone that sits extra-highâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;like a sparkling cherry on top. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;EV

#OPY AND 0ASTE #ONTENT Ă&#x2DC;VAILABLE )NSTAGRAM &ACEBOOK 'RAPHICS #APTION ,IFESTYLE 3HOTS 7EBSITE %MAIL "ANNERS

Beloved ring in 14k yellow gold with 6 mm round rose-cut champagne diamond surrounded by white diamonds; $7,200; themaniamania.com

JCKONLINE.COM 3ALES/NE ,,# #

THE VAULT

SILVER SIL Sterling silver Legends Naga long drop earrings with black sapphire and black spinel; $795

ON INSTAGRAM

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WAY OF THE DRAGON The mythical Balinese dragon Naga has been the inspiration for John Hardy’s collection of dragon-motif pieces—also called Naga—for eons. But the scaly beauty, as imagined by the brand, has undergone an elegant update at the hands of Hollie Bonneville Barden, the company’s first-ever female creative director. The designer was inspired to tweak the creature’s features after poring over ancient Balinese drawings of the dragon: “Balinese folklore depicts Naga as an embodiment of different natural spirits—the earth, the ocean, and the sky,” she notes. Hence, Barden’s debut line (which is priced from $295 to $23,000) renders the reptile in softer, more feminine-feeling curves, gleaming with accents of sapphire and spinel. —EMILI VESILIND

STAY IN THE KNOW.

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Sterling silver Naga two-finger ring with black sapphire and black spinel; $695

Sterling silver Naga kick cuff with black sapphire and black spinel; $1,795; John Hardy; 888-838-3022; johnhardy.com

HOT STOCK TIP

CATCH THE WAVE Coca-Cola has promoted countless slogans over the past century and while 1957’s “Sign of Good Taste” may not be the most memorable, it’s an apt plug for Persona’s new licensed collection of sterling silver– and–CZ Coca-Cola by Persona jewelry, unveiled at JCK Las Vegas. Composed of necklaces, rings, and 18 unique charms— including the classic polar bear style seen here—the line arrived just in time for the holidays. Think of it as the taste that endures. —VICTORIA GOMELSKY

Polar bear charm and Coca-Cola earrings, both in sterling silver with CZ and enamel; $55–$65; personaworld.com

UMA K’S ENLIGHTENED COLLECTION! SEE jckonline.com/topics/silver FOR THAT AND MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

INSTAGRAM.COM/JCKMAGAZINE

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THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

SHOW BIZ Gem week—it’s the most colorful time of the year! The AGTA GemFair runs Jan. 30–Feb. 4 at the Tucson Convention Center; don’t miss these exhibitors (or the free shuttles from the JCK Tucson show!).

JUST DESERT

1/ Ring in platinum with 4.51 ct. sapphire and 2.18 cts. t.w. diamonds; $75,600; Jye’s International; 415-621-8880; jyescorp.com

From Jan. 31 to Feb. 3, JCK Tucson offers something the other gem shows don’t: designer jewelry

M

Chromanteq geode, spinel, and peridot earrings in recycled 18k yellow gold with nanoceramic; £9,360 ($12,550); The Rock Hound; susi@ therockhound.com; therockhound.com

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

OST JEWELERS ARRIVE in Tucson in early February expecting to shop for loose stones, mineral specimens, and other quirky finds from the wide world of gems. The selection at JCK Tucson, however, challenges those expectations.

The show, which runs Jan. 31–Feb. 3 at the JW Marriott Tucson Starr Pass Resort & Spa, specializes in finished jewelry from the industry’s most respected designers, including Alishan, Adel Chefridi, Alex Šepkus, Elizabeth Garvin, and Suzy Landa, as well as vendors fresh on the scene, such as London-based The Rock Hound and goldsmith Baiyang Qiu. “The DNA of JCK Tucson is so unique and distinct from the other JCK properties— LUXURY and JCK Las Vegas—and it’s really different from the other Arizona shows,” says Katie Dominesey, industry vice president at JCK Events, the show organizer. “It’s a very relaxed environment, upscale but not stuffy, and we crafted it based on what retailers wanted.”

The show opens each morning with a retailer roundtable event designed to allow participants—

many of whom represent retail stores that carry fashion and accessories in addition to fine jewelry—“to share in an honest space and really learn from one another,” Dominesey says.

The intimate, convivial atmosphere extends to lunch on the patio, where attendees will have an opportunity to network, and culminates on the evening of Thursday, Feb. 1, at “Gems After Dark,” a networking party cohosted by GenNext Jewelers and the Women’s Jewelry Association.

All of the buying and socializing takes place against the backdrop of the Starr Pass resort, a AAA Four Diamond property tucked amid the hills bordering Saguaro National Park. The lush high-desert environment lends the show its casual yet refined vibe, which organizers build upon with events steeped in the same laid-back spirit.

“We’ll have a bar in each ballroom and tea tasting like we had at last year’s LUXURY,” Dominesey adds. “The show is designed to be more sensory, experiential, and a really fun environment.”

JCKONLINE.COM

2/ Blue sapphire earrings with 1.19 cts. t.w. diamonds and black Tahitian pearls in 18k white gold; $9,350; Mastoloni; 800-347-3275; mastoloni.com 3/ 18k gold ring with 2.57 cts. t.w. diamonds and 3.72 ct. Colombian emerald; $24,000; Michael John Jewelry; 800-404-8633; michaeljohnjewelry.com 4/ Platinum earrings with 13.6 cts. t.w. pear-shape Colombian emeralds, 0.62 ct. t.w. pearshape diamonds, and 0.92 ct. t.w. round diamonds; price on request; Omi Privé; 877-664-4367; omiprive.com 5/ 14k yellow gold earrings with aquamarine, diamond, blue zircon, and sapphire; $1,353; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com

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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME “If YouTube is the only thing you’re doing, it will not move the needle.”

—BEN SMITHEE, THE SMITHEE GROUP

THE LONG GAME

VIDEO SCORE

Y

KATARZYNA BIALASIEWICZ/ISTOCK/GETTY

Should your business be marketing on YouTube? You bet!

BY EMILI VESILIND

OUTUBE ANNOUNCED IN September that it reached more than 1.5 billion monthly active users— meaning that it now has the second-largest audience in the world, just behind Facebook. More than 90 percent of U.S. teens, and just over 80 percent of U.S. millennials, are regular YouTube users, according to the company, with each group on average spending 40 minutes a day watching videos on the platform.

Considering its massive audience of youngsters, it’s a wonder more jewelry businesses (beyond megabrands such as Cartier and Rolex) haven’t embraced YouTube as a repository for compelling content marketing. After all, “YouTube has two really big things going for it,” says Ben Smithee, CEO of The Smithee Group in New York City, which counts several jewelry companies among its clients.

“It has a huge user base, and it’s owned by Google”—meaning the site is highly ranked in search results.

But what you get from YouTube is largely dependent on what you put into it—in sweat equity. “It’s still just a channel, and building a following on any channel takes time and consistent posting,” Smithee notes.

Here are a few things to consider when dreaming up your first (or next) great YouTube campaign.

GOOD TIMING More than a few technology pundits have predicted that YouTube will replace TV and streaming services such as Netflix entirely in the next decade. More than 300 hours of video are uploaded every hour to YouTube, feeding the ongoing demand for fresh content consumed by, well, billions.

It’s where your future engagement ring buyers are lingering, which makes now the ideal time to establish and grow your company’s channel.

JCKONLINE.COM

Success on YouTube, or any platform, isn’t overnight. “If you’re not willing to put 100 videos up before you get any traction, it’s not going to do anything for you,” Smithee says.

“You have to earn your way on this.”

And creating video content should be part of a larger content strategy that includes Facebook, Instagram, and a company website at minimum.

“If YouTube is the only thing you’re doing, it will not move the needle,” explains Smithee, who adds that a good content strategy includes the crossover of content between marketing platforms.

ON TARGET Asking your clients what they want to see may be the easiest way to start brainstorming original videos for YouTube. But Rochester, Mich.–based marketing firm Brand Labs subscribes to a mathlike formula when advising clients on what to create for the platform. The sweet spot for content types, according to Brand Labs, lives in the intersection of these two questions: “What does my brand stand for?” and “What does my audience care about?”

Smithee advises his clients to shoot simple, unfussy videos with an iPhone. “The videos that show you sitting at your desk talking about what you really know and love,” he adds, “are going to be 100 percent more effective than the video in your head that’s never designed, never produced, and never shot.”

TOOL TIME

THE GOODS RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! VOTE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK VEGAS 2018 Select the “best of the best” in jewelry design. Vote for your favorite piece within each product category, plus help determine the grand prize winner, which will be featured on the May 2018 cover of JCK magazine.

Voting is only open to jewelry store owners and employees.

Vote now through February 23rd VOTE NOW AT JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM

What we liked: The F-80 Motion’s prestige branding, solid build (including a Swiss-made MOMT285-1 movement), and fantastic design, which fuses the industrial with the sculptural, are the superstars here. You can definitely buy a quality fitness tracker for less—but probably not one with this much panache.

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO F-80 MOTION Italian designer brand Salvatore Ferragamo’s latest riff on its popular analog F-80 watch, the F-80 Motion, is a connected hybrid that looks and feels like a luxury analog timepiece.

The watch boasts an elegant, traditionally masculine–feeling design and a basic but solid menu of functions, including a fitness tracker that counts steps and other fitness activities and comprehensive sleep monitoring. All that user data gets crunched in the smartwatch’s companion app, which plays nicely with both Apple and Android phones. —EV

What we didn’t like: We wish the watch paired with a branded, proprietary app that matched the slickness and style of the F-80 Motion. Instead, the device connects to the visually underwhelming MMT-365 app, which also services a spate of other Swiss smartwatches.

Best feature: You don’t have to wear the watch (which is sizable) overnight to monitor your sleep patterns and/or disruptions. Its snooze sensors are nuanced enough to track body movements from underneath your pillow. ($1,395; ferragamo.com)

APP CHAT

ENLIGHT PHOTOFOX There are countless photo editing apps on the market, all touting cool tools to help you create high-quality imagery for your social feeds. But few are as full-featured as the latest version of Enlight Photofox. The nifty app, which was a 2017 Apple Design Award winner, essentially puts a streamlined, easy-to-use version of Photoshop on your phone, and therefore at your fingertips. Create artistic photo mash-ups and collages using transparent layers, double exposures, and effects such as blur, selective coloring, and dispersion (which makes a subject look like it’s partially disintegrating, science fiction–style). Plus: Mastering each and every Enlight tool is easy enough, thanks to the scads of how-to videos dedicated to the app on YouTube. ($3.99, App Store; photofoxapp.com) —EV

MICHELE’S SMARTWATCH FOR WOMEN! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

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Hoover & Strong

SWJ/Southwest Jewel

Hoover & Strong has a brand-new band catalog! Ask for yours today.

We offer competitive pricing on hundreds of die-struck bands, including classic, fancy, two-tone, multi-tone, and diamond styles. All made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals.

SWJ is a family-owned, full-service Swiss watch wholesale company serving the trade for 38 years. We offer over 20 Swiss brands, specializing in pre-owned Rolex. We also offer diamond accessories and dial refinishing for the Rolex, with all work completed by our master watchmakers. Watches have a two-year warranty.

10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com

3500 Bluebonnet Circle Fort Worth, TX 76109 Tel: 214-522-8300/800-797-9477 Email: swjswiss@sbcglobal.net Website: southwestjewel.com

Artistry, Ltd. Phillip Gavriel

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: phillip@royalchain.com Website: phillipgavriel.com For Royal Chain’s 40th anniversary, Phillip Gavriel introduces his best-selling Popcorn collection for the first time in gold. Each piece is handcrafted in Italy and features diamonds and natural gemstones.

RDI Diamonds Inc.

2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com The Ariel Diamonds® beautifully enhanced diamond line is the best option for you and your customers. This program gives you the ability to offer a bigger diamond... even when the budget just isn’t enough.

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8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: info@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com Artistry’s Moonlight collection in 14k white gold with 0.03 ct. t.w. diamonds features rose quartz, blue topaz, or white quartz over mother-of-pearl.

MSRP: $435–$585, including 18-inch chain.

Matching earrings and rings also available.

Allison-Kaufman Co.

7640 Haskell Ave. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Tel: 818-373-5100/800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150 Email: info@allisonkaufman.com Website: allisonkaufman.com 14k white gold, sapphires, and diamonds, no matter the shape, are always perfect together. Check out the new Sapphire and Diamonds collection from Allison-Kaufman.

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TraxSALES

JYE Luxury Collection

TraxSales.com has been providing retail sales force automation and customer relationship management for 21 years. Learn your accurate closing ratios and liberate your sales team to be the best they can be.

Happy salespeople = happy customers! Call 713-466-7177.

JYE’s stones are meticulously selected before the design process begins. Taking their character and nature into account, our artists form a design around the stones, ensuring each piece performs at its best and brightest.

6830 N. Eldridge Parkway, Suite 302 Houston, TX 77041 Tel: 888-534-1253/713-466-7177 Email: sales@traxsales.com Website: traxsales.com

101 Utah St., Suite 101 San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-621-8880/866-633-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com

Ed Levin Jewelry Costar Imports, Inc.

Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: Info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com Style R12611B, 0.75 ct. t.w. MSRP: $4,200

Gabriel & Co.

545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: mjgonzalez@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Transitioning effortlessly from day to night, our elegantly simple Demure bracelets are essential in any wardrobe. Their secure fit offers maximum comfort, while their flexibility makes them a cinch to put on and take off. Worn alone or paired with other bracelets, they’re pieces you’ll reach for every day.

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52 West Main St. Cambridge, NY 12816 Tel: 518-677-8595 Fax: 518-677-8597 Email: info@edlevinjewelry.com Website: www.edlevinjewelry.com Soft curves are inspired by deep sleep on a comfy bed.

A hidden message, “Dream,” displays when bracelet swings open to put on. Hand forged in the USA in sterling silver.

Martin Flyer

70 W. 36th St. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 800-223-0330 Fax: 212-768-0124 Email: sales@martinflyer.com Website: martinflyer.com “The Quality You Expect, the Personal Service You Deserve.”

Since 1945, this belief has remained our cornerstone through three generations of outstanding service, craftsmanship, and delivery of heirloom-quality jewelry at competitive prices.

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SHOWCASE

ESCAPE

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Arch Crown Inc.

6540 Alliance Dr., Suite 120 Rockwall, TX 75032 Tel: 469-646-9990 Email: contact@escapewatches.com Website: escapewatches.com

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: orders@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com

ESCAPE offers a full men’s and ladies’ fashion price point watch collection, with stainless steel base and Japanese quartz movements. Elevated features include intricate layered dials, mixed materials, and genuine leather straps. MSRP: $125–$295

New! Tag your holiday merchandise with Arch Crown Poly-Lam Thermal Transfer Computer Tags. Poly-Lam material has superior print durability and can withstand ultrasonic cleaning; text and bar code will not rub off. Clear-Tail tags in gold, silver, and white.

Ovadia Corp. www.effyjewelry.com #effyjewelry

101 E. Main St. Little Falls, NJ 07424 Tel: 973-256-9200 Email: sales@ovadia.com Website: ovadia.com

A showstopping celebration of brilliant scarlet: EFFY’s genuine ruby collection—Ruby Royale—boasts a selection of 14k gold styles, including this handcrafted, dazzling ring, adorned with marquise cut rubies and glittering diamonds.

Ovadia’s Discovery trays offer elegant, durable jewelry presentation for travel, retail, and understock. Interchangeable Oro-Lite pads offer unlimited display options. Trays are stackable and can have custom signage and be covered in fabric, genuine wood veneer, and more.

EFFY

Christopher Designs

50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@crisscut.com Website: christopherdesigns.com Christopher Designs impeccably blends Old World luxury and style with modern technology to create exclusive designs that include our patented Crisscut® and L’Amour Crisscut diamonds. When placed side by side with our competition, the difference is truly clear.

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Shy Creation

650 S. Hill St., Suite 428 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Kate collection diamond and gold stackable bangles from Shy Creation are ideal for layering and creating any combo for the perfect stack. Visit us at The Centurion Jewelry Show to view the entire collection! Centurion Suite 122

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Midas Chain

50 McDermott Place Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 877-643-2765 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com Diamond Bezel Heart by Midas Chain. This beautiful 14k yellow gold heart comes with an adjustable chain for ultimate versatility, which your customers will love. Designed with a diamond accent to accentuate the styling. MSRP: $393

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group

24 Jewelers Park Dr. Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com Businesses like yours have trusted Jewelers Mutual for support since 1913. Contact us to learn how we can help you become safer, more secure, and more successful.

JWL.com Inc.

23024 Conde Drive Valencia, CA 91354 Tel: 310-922-4757 Fax: 310-922-4757 Email: larry@accountec.com Website: jwl.com We are the jewelry industry’s future digital currency, providing safe, secure, and easy global payment processing. Visit our website to receive free 250 digital coins.

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com

Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc.

10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere.

We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.

Stuller Inc.

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Stuller’s all-inclusive bridal program, ever&ever, allows you various ways to display the collection in your store, plus a full suite of marketing materials, and an interactive web experience to get your customers engaged and buying. Learn more at stuller.com/everandever.

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Le Vian®

Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Discover Le Vian Denim™ blues, the 2018 Fall Color of the Year, including this 14k Strawberry Gold® ring centered with a 3 ct. Deep Sea Blue Topaz™ encircled in Vanilla Diamonds® with Chocolate Diamonds® accents.

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americas Gold americas Diamonds

650 S. Hill St., Suite 224 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-688-4904 Fax: 213-688-1504 Email: info@americasgold.com Website: americasgold.com One of the most popular and best-selling in men’s jewelry. 14k yellow gold Miami Cuban link necklace with 5.50 cts. t.w. diamonds.

Ashi Diamonds

18 E. 48th St., 14th Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-319-8291 Fax: 212-319-4341 Email: kalyani@ashidiamonds.com Website: ashidiamonds.com ASHI Diamonds is thrilled to announce the launch of the 2017 Holiday Wish Book. This year, ASHI has included exclusive jewelry from its Couture line and the newest additions from its Lovebright and I DO Bridal collections, as well as the hottest and latest trends in fashion jewelry. For more info, call 800-622-2744 or visit ashidiamonds.com.

Thorsten Jewelry

404 E. First, Suite 1204 Long Beach, CA 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings.com Website: thorstenrings.com Same day shipping. Unmatched pricing. Free lifetime warranty.

Hundreds of styles in stock.

RDI Diamonds Inc.

2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again! You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100 percent Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.

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ADVERTISING

INDEX

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AGS Laboratories pg. 87 Website: agslab.com A.R.Z. Steel pg. 24 Website: arzsteel.com Email: info@arzsteel.com Phone: 514-489-8668 Fax: 514-489-6929 Alex Velvet pg. 32 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Allison Kaufman Company pg. 40 Website: allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908 Artistry Ltd. pg. 20 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Atlanta Jewelry Show pg. 128A-128AF (regional insert) Website: atlantajewelryshow.com Email: info@atlantajewelryshow.com Toll-Free: 800-241-0399 Christopher Designs pg. 25 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970 Costar Imports pg. 45 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR E.L. Designs pg. 51 Website: edlevinjewelry.com Email: info@edlevinjewelry.com Phone: 518-677-8595 Toll-Free: 800-828-1122 Fax: 518-677-8597 Toll-Free Fax: 888-677-8597 Effy pg. 27 Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Escape pg. 43 Website: escapewatches.com Email: contact@escapewatches.com Phone: 469-646-9990 Gabriel & Co. pg. 48 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018

Gdansk International Fair Co. pg. 39 Website: amberif.pl Email: amberif@mtgsa.com.pl Phone: +48 58 554 91 34

Martin Flyer pg. 15 Website: martinflyer.com Email: info@martinflyer.com Phone: 212-840-8899

Salesone LLC pg. 131 Website: salesone.org Email: sales@salesone.org Toll-Free: 866-507-2537

GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250

MDJ Advantage pg. 35 Website: mdjadvantage.com Email: Dm@mdjadvantage.com Toll-Free: 888-500-4311 Toll-Free Fax: 877-487-2104

Shy Creation Inc. pg. 17 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749

Hong Kong Trade Development Council pg. 88 Website: hktdc.com Email: hkjewelry.visitor@hktdc.org

Midas pg. 11 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765

Hoover & Strong pg. 55 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 31 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327

JCK Events pg. 37, 134 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers’ Mutual Insurance pg. 4-5 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 127, 128 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 JWL pg. 21 Website: JWL.com Email: info@jwl.com Phone: 866-545-9871

Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 9 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Rand & Paseka pg. 22 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. Back Cover Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960

Stuller Inc. pg. 60 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Thai Trade Center pg. 36 Website: bkkgems.com Email: bkkgems@ditp.go.th Thorsten Jewelry pg. 33 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com TraxSALES.com pg. 28 Email: Dave@TraxSALES.com Phone: 713-466-7177 Toll-Free: 888-534-1253 Fax: 713-466-7392 Umicore pg. 44 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 Wilkerson pg. 23 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333

Jye’s International pg. 53 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880 Kim International pg. 19 Website: kimint.com Email: sales@kimint.com Toll-Free: 800-275-5555 Kimberly Collins Colored Gems pg. 26 Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com Email: kim@kimberlycollinsgems.com Phone: 512-661-8778 Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN

Copyright ©2018 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 149 No. 1 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/ October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.

This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract.

Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

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CLASSIFIEDS SERVICES TO TRADE

REPS WANTED

Custom Colored Gem Cutting American style precision cutting or gem repairs.

Gems of the Hill Country

Paradox Fine Watch Company, the authorized distributor of G-Shock, Alfred Sung Timepieces and Garmin Smart Watches is expanding its sales force. For more than 40 years, Paradox has been distributing leading brands of timepieces. Our growth continues with our industry leading family of cutting edge, in-demand watch brands.

We are seeking dynamic Independent Sales Reps to continue our growth. Watch industry, jewelry or giftware experience is required for reps.

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YOUR INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

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JEWELRY MODELS For solitaire, engagement, wedding sets, anniversary, 3-stone, eternity rings, and pendants Exclusively made in Los Angeles, USA HPDLO VHUYLFH#MHZHOU\UXEEHUPROGV FRP www.JewelryRubberMolds.com

Please contact Alen Silver, National Sales Manager: alen@vistanyc.com

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES COPPER CANARY BOUTIQUE Specializing in Antique Jewelry Carlsbad, CA.

internet. Please email resume to Allie at info@coppercanaryboutique.com

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THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

CORAL CENTERPIECE

FOR FINE JEWELRY inspiration, look no further than Lauren Hutton’s first cover for U.S. Vogue in November 1966. With those expressive eyes and that asymmetrical smile (she was advised not to reveal her famously gapped teeth), you can already see a fashion icon in the making. In the photograph by Bert Stern, she wears a black satin Cossack blouse by Lynn Stuart for Mister Pants and a coral bead necklace and owl pin from Tiffany & Co. (We love the haphazardly twisted strands against the stiff gold lace trim.) By 1970 the model had embarked on an acting career, and in a staff memo then–Vogue editor Diana Vreeland wrote of Hutton, “This girl is obviously on her way to becoming an important star. I feel we are not using her importantly enough.” The magazine apparently heeded Vreeland’s call: Hutton has appeared on the cover of Vogue a record 26 times. —KRISTIN YOUNG

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BERT STERN/CONDÉ NAST VIA GETTY IMAGES

Lauren Hutton would go on to become the face of many jewelry companies, including Monet, David Webb, and Alexis Bittar

©2018 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

Not all gems come from under the ground.

The Gemological Institute of America supports communities where gems are mined, working with the Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory to build libraries in Africa and helping artisanal miners understand the quality of their discoveries with our Gem Guide. These initiatives help make it possible for regional populations to take a more active role in the industry and ultimately help their community look forward to a brighter future. Our contributions are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls.

The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology

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Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu

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