THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2018
JCKONLINE.COM
GEM HUNT LOOKING FOR THE HOTTEST HUES AND MOST COVETED STONES? H E R E ’ S W H AT T O B U Y IN TUCSON.
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CONTENTS
62
JCKONLINE.COM
COVER
NO STONE UNTURNED
From iridescent opal to multicolored sapphires to tourmaline in just about any shade you can dream of, these luscious gems are guaranteed to leave you on a rainbow high. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL
FEATURES 70
GEM CLASS HEROES Whether they’re suddenly sexy opaque stones or faceted favorites in unusual hues, these are the five to watch in 2018. Fill your pockets accordingly. BY AMY ELLIOTT
76
70
76
NEXT LEVEL LOOKS Need new jewels for the new year? These five trends— sculptural brass styles, slim and sexy lariats, keshi pearls, opaque stones, and mix-and-match earrings—will keep customers coming back all year long. PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN LEWIS
82
IN CASE OF EMERGENCY How retailers are preparing for natural disasters such as hurricanes, wildfires, and more. BY MARTHA C. WHITE
84
50 WAYS TO IMPROVE YOUR STORE RIGHT NOW
84 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
From Skype sessions to storytelling, giving your business a quick and easy refresh doesn’t need to feel daunting. BY EMILI VESILIND
(FROM TOP) JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL; SLIP: AMANDEV / AMANDEV.COM ; SOFIA KAMAN FINE JEWELS; STEPHEN LEWIS. MINOAN COLLECTION 18K GOLD CHOKERS WITH GREEN TOURMALINES, PINK TOURMALINES, AND GOLD BEADS, $4,850–$4,950, LALAOUNIS, 212-439-9400, ILIASLALAOUNIS.EU; TIGER’S EYE SWIVEL EARRINGS IN 14K YELLOW GOLD, $4,140, RETROUVAÍ, 646-745-6831, RETROUVAI. COM; LONG BEAD AND CHAIN NECKLACE (SHOWN AS BRACELET) WITH SUNSTONE, MORGANITE, AND HESSONITE GARNET IN 18K GOLD, $2,250, DAVID YURMAN, 212-752-4255, DAVIDYURMAN.COM
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CONTENTS
8
DEPARTMENTS
14 16 18 24 26 29 36 38 41
44 46 49 50 52 58
12
JEWEL BOX 5 things rocking the industry
FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER JCK INSIDER JCKONLINE NEWS GEMS
Inside the lab-grown diamond business boom GEM PRICING REPORT
29
THE CALENDAR Industry shows, Jan. 12–March 25, 2018
SHOP TALK
INNOVATIVE RETAILER Flying Solo in New York City RETAIL THERAPY Store resolutions for 2018 STORE WE ADORE Thistle & Bess in Ann Arbor, Mich.
THE LOOK
RED CARPET DESIGNER SHOWCASE Adel Chefridi JCK ASKS... Aaron Furlong
129 130 131 132 133
THE VAULT GOLD BRIDAL SILVER
SHOW BIZ We’ve got designs on the JCK Tucson show. Plus: 5 brands to visit at the AGTA GemFair.
135 TOOL TIME
Why you should be focusing your marketing on YouTube. Plus: Ferragamo’s F-80 Motion.
144 THE WAY WE WORE
Lauren Hutton wears Tiffany jewels and a Mona Lisa smile. JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
41
(BOTTOM) GEORGE CHINSEE/ WWD/SHUTTERSTOCK
12
130
JCKONLINE.COM
6 2/,9( 67 67( /26 $1*(/(6 &$ _ 5$+$0,129 &20
COVER LOOK
10
JCKONLINE.COM
34-inch beaded rope necklace with lanterns, sapphires, and gold clasp with diamonds; $12,125; Adel Chefridi; 866-428-8777; chefridi.com
Earrings with 6.57 cts. t.w. boulder opal, pearl, 10.58 cts. t.w. tourmaline, and 0.41 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $6,800; Eden Presley; sales@ edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com
GEM HUNT Looking for the most coveted stones—and the hottest hues— in the desert? We’ll tell you what to stock up on in Tucson, aka colored-stone nirvana.
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL Styling: JEN SMITH; Hair: JEANIE SYFU/ATELIER MANAGEMENT; Makeup: REGINA HARRIS Manicurist: RACHEL SHIM USING CHANEL LE VERNIS/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; Model: ALECIA MORAIS/THE SOCIETY MANAGEMENT SHEARLING FROM DARYL K
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
White diamond Shake necklace in 18k gold; $14,900; Renee Lewis; 212580-3971; renee lewisjewelry.com
14k yellow gold large turquoise Sunrise necklace with pavé diamonds; $6,500; Jacquie Aiche; sales@ jacquieaiche.com; jacquieaiche.com
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY
JEWEL BOX The Blue Box Cafe, which serves breakfast on Tiffany & Co.–branded dinnerware
2
AUCTIONS 1
RETAILERS Holly Golightly’s dream of having Breakfast at Tiffany’s has become a reality, and it’s not even bring-your-own croissant. On Nov. 3, Tiffany & Co. opened The Blue Box Cafe, a new eatery on the fourth floor of its New York City flagship, which, of course, serves breakfast. The move is part of a larger trend of retailers incorporating restaurants into their stores, but this isn’t just any retailer opening any restaurant. For die-hard fans of the 1961 movie, the chance to actually have breakfast at the place where “nothing very bad could happen to you”—and then Instagram themselves enjoying avocado toast—was enough to spur lines during opening week.
JCKONLINE.COM
When one amazing diamond doesn’t set the world on fire at auction, it’s an isolated event. But when three other muchballyhooed pieces don’t sell—in the same week—observers wonder whether the bottom has dropped out of the high-end auction market. On Nov. 14, a 163.41 ct. D flawless diamond garnered $33.7 million at Christie’s. While that’s no small sum—it is a new world record for a D flawless— some thought the price disappointing, considering a 118 ct. D flawless brought in $30.6 million in 2013. A day later, Sotheby’s saw three notable lots—the 37.3 ct. fancy intense Raj Pink, a Moussaieff ring with a 7.41 ct. blue diamond, and the Donnersmarck pair of yellow diamonds—all fail to meet their reserves. Still, the news wasn’t all bad: The same Sotheby’s sale set a new record for a fancy light pink diamond when an anonymous buyer paid $12.8 million for a 33.63 ct. stone (pictured).
13
Earrings with 71.13 cts. t.w. amethyst and 2 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; price on request; Andreoli; 212-582-2050; andreoliusa.com
3
COLORS
We won’t say “we told you so,” but, well, why not? In our November–December 2017 issue, we predicted that purple would be big in 2018, and Pantone just proved us right, anointing Ultra Violet its 2018 Color of the Year. For anyone still recovering from the Marsala debacle of 2015—we feel your pain—the shade selection is a relief. For jewelers everywhere, it’s sure to be an inspiration. (Think amethyst, agate, sugilite…and we’ve got two words for you: purple spinel.) And if you’re still crushing on Pantone’s 2017 hue, all the better: Greenery is a terrific complement to Ultra Violet.
4
BLUE BOX CAFE: TIFFANY & CO.; PINK DIAMOND: COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S; ROYALS: CHRIS JACKSON/GETTY IMAGES ENTERTAINMENT; DIAMOND: TROY ARDON, FEATURED IN GEMS & GEMOLOGY, FALL 2017, P. 366
ROYALS 5
LABS GIA called it “blatant fraud”—and it’s hard to disagree. Earlier this year, the Carlsbad, Calif., branch of the GIA laboratory took in a 1.76 ct. F VS1 excellent-cut round diamond that bore an inscription for a natural stone. But the marking (pictured, left, partially redacted for privacy) turned out to be an obvious forgery, and, after testing, the diamond was found to be lab-grown. While GIA considers the incident isolated, it certainly doesn’t help settle the nerves of an industry already on edge about synthetic diamonds.
Prince Harry and actress Meghan Markle set the internet ablaze Nov. 27 when Kensington Palace broke news of the couple’s engagement followed by adorable photos of the pair looking completely smitten. Markle, wrapped in a chic cream-colored coat, donned two memorable pieces of jewelry for her first royal portrait session: a stunning 18k yellow gold three-stone– style engagement ring and a pair of opal studs set in 18k yellow gold. The earrings, from Canadian jewelry brand Birks, retail for $995. But the ring, which was fabricated by Queen Elizabeth II’s official jeweler, Cleave and Co., is essentially priceless: Prince Harry designed it himself, using two diamonds that belonged to Princess Diana to flank a center stone mined in Botswana, the African country where the couple recently camped out together under the stars.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
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FROM THE EDITOR
14
22k gold earrings with amethysts; $2,700; Munnu the Gem Palace; 212861-0808; munnu thegempalace.com
Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
FOR MOST OF my life, I’ve tried hard to adhere to this maxim, metaphorically speaking. I’ve traveled on the fly, eaten every delicacy that appeared in front of me (fried grasshopper, grilled snake), and said yes to invitations at least 10 times more than I said no. But it wasn’t until I spent two weeks in India in October—to attend the International Colored Gemstone Association’s biennial congress in Jaipur—that I realized that literally living colorfully is just as important. From roadside markets teeming with women in crimson and gold saris to the painted camels that greeted me in the town of Pushkar—where in the days following the ICA Congress my boyfriend, Jim, and I partook in its annual camel fair—life in India is colorful to the extreme. That goes triple for Jaipur, whose colored stone industry is second to none in cutting and polishing emeralds, quartz, and just about any other gem material your heart desires. No trip to Rajasthan’s capital is complete without paying a visit to its finest jewelers—chief among them Amrapali, Gyan Jewels, and The Gem Palace (the historic boutique downstairs and the private upstairs salon once used by the late Munnu Kasliwal as a design studio)—for whom color is both religion and currency. As we prepare for Tucson’s annual gem week, led by JCK Tucson at the JW Marriott Tucson Starr Pass Resort & Spa (check out “Just Desert” on page 133 for all the details on the show), we’re attempting to live life in the Indian mold.
In “No Stone Unturned” (page 62), our sexy wintertime colored stone jewelry feature, that mission translates as a more-is-more approach to adornment, as seen in the layers of gem-set necklaces that bejewel our breathtaking cover model (2018 trend alert: Think beads!). The mad-about-hue spree continues in our colored stone spotlight, “Gem Class Heroes” (page 70), by JCK ’s All That Glitters blogger Amy Elliott, who dishes on the five gems destined to make waves in 2018: malachite; bicolor tourmaline; pink opal; teal and green sapphire; and spinel in such shades as purple, gray, mauve, and more. “Next Level Looks” (page 76), a seductive still life—photographed by New York City– based Stephen Lewis, the same shutterbug who shot the buzz-worthy book A Man & His Watch—spotlights 2018’s biggest jewelry trends: sculptural brass statement pieces, sexy lariats, keshi pearls, opaque stones (e.g., malachite and tiger’s eye), and mix-and-match earrings. Despite the fun fashion focus, our “New Year, New You” issue is concerned with more than just looks. “In Case of Emergency” (page 82) by Martha C. White is a can’t-miss guide to preparing for catastrophes, while “50 Ways to Improve Your Store Right Now” (page 84) is senior editor Emili Vesilind’s essential take on how to jump-start your business today. As you contemplate this next trip around the sun, may it be happy, healthy, and, yes, colorful! JCKONLINE.COM
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES
ive colorfully.
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
OUR FAVORITE THINGS
STAFF PICKS 1
Necklace with 23.29 cts. t.w. yellow and pink sapphires and 2.16 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; price on request; Andreoli; 212-582-2050; andreoliusa.com
2
Cuff bracelet with lemon quartz in 14k gold–plated brass; $990; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com
Bypass ring with 4.43 cts. t.w. fancy yellow radiant-cut diamonds and white and yellow diamond melee in platinum and 18k yellow gold; $95,000; Rahaminov; 800-742-8864; rahaminov.com
3
Golden Elephant cufflinks with yellow and white diamonds in 18k gold; $36,000; Oh My Got; 212878-6080; ohmygot cufflinks.com
“I’m completely drawn to the sunny color that’s been brightening so many fashion collections this season.” —Brittany Siminitz, JCK contributing editor
JCKONLINE.COM
4
YELLOW WORLD
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What JCK magazine’s BRITTANY SIMINITZ is loving this month
Cirque hinged cuff bracelet with yellow beryl in 14k yellow gold; $3,465; Jane Taylor Jewelry; 413-687-3153; janetaylor.com
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FROM THE PUBLISHER
18
Rochester, N.Y., by night
Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
BY THE TIME this issue is out, you’ll have made it through the holiday season and you should have a pretty good idea about how your store fared. We certainly hope it was a terrific one! Despite all the chaos and noise coming from (both sides in) Washington, the good news is the economy continues to chug along. Unemployment is low and consumer confidence is up. On the jewelry retail front, there are those who feel the reduction in the number of stores is nearing its end, as we go from an over-stored past to a new leaner-meaner future. As I wrote in our last issue, the amount of jewelry sold is actually on the rise, so hopefully, that means more revenue per store for the thousands of remaining U.S. jewelry retailers. I had a fascinating trip to northwest New York state in November that left me feeling optimistic about the industry and the country. JCK sales executive Randi Gewertz and I traveled to Buffalo and Rochester to see our friends at Rembrandt Charms and RDI Diamonds. In both cities, the vibration of renewal and rebirth is strong. Signs of the “glory days” are all around, from grand old office buildings to lovely historic neighborhoods. There’s also
an air of decay at sites like the abandoned Buffalo Central Terminal. And yet, it’s clear that the cities are rebounding. We stayed in an impressive new hotel/arena complex in an area of Buffalo that was abandoned just a few years ago. In Rochester, we dined in a beautiful new restaurant near the old Erie Canal. Both companies are thriving too. Their offices feature expanding or newly expanded facilities filled with upbeat, enthusiastic employees. After years of visiting companies during recessionary times, it was a delight to see. Here’s hoping the American economic engine continues to gain steam, and we in the industry can get back to the business of being a part of significant life moments, well-earned self-gifting, and just-plain-fun fashion buying. I look forward to seeing friends during the Arizona jewelry and gem shows in late January/ early February: Centurion, JCK Tucson, AGTA GemFair, and the other shows on the colored stone circuit. See you there! P.S. In a hopeful sign for 2018, we just closed the Jewelers’ Choice Awards submissions period, with a 20 percent increase in entries over 2017. We’re excited for you to see the designers’ and manufacturers’ creations and vote at jewelerschoiceawards.com. JCKONLINE.COM
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; PHOTOQUEST7/ISTOCK/GETTY
appy New Year!
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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 148 YEARS!
Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES
Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com U.S. ADVERTISING SALES
EDITORIAL
CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com
News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com Senior Editor / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com
AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com
Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI
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Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHIHART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors KEVIN CREMENS, RYANN FORD, KEN GUNMAKER, ETHAN HILL, NICOLE LAMOTTE, STEPHEN LEWIS, GAVIN O’NEILL, CODY PICKENS, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS, PATRIC SHAW, JOEL STANS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK
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Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, LUXURY, JIS) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305 cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com
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JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Industry Vice President KATIE DOMINESEY 203-840-5470 kdominesey@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com
Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Renewals & Sponsorships: Clockwork, Essentials & Tech, Security, Retail Experience, Gallery, Bridge, Sterling, First Look (M–Z), Vicenza 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive ANA CROSBY Renewals & Sponsorships: Currents, Diamond Plaza, Lab-Grown Diamond, Bridal, Key Accounts, First Look (A–L) 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com
Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive ALEXANDRA WURSTER International Companies & Pavilions (New & Returning); JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com
Sales Executive DANA KARP New Companies (A–L), Security; JCK magazine 203-840-5687 dkarp@reedjewelrygroup.com
Sales Executive BARBARA MURRAY New Companies (M–Z), Retail Experience 203-840-5305 bmurray@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Bridge (Renewals); JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager CHADAÉ BOWLER 203-840-5845 cbowler@reedjewelrygroup.com
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516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com
Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com
Marketing Manager MOLLY FITZPATRICK 203-840-5379 mfitzpatric@reedjewelrygroup.com
Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com
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Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design @ LUXURY 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager HANNAH CONNORTON 203-840-5492 hconnorton@reedjewelrygroup.com
Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.
Amelia Justice
â&#x20AC;&#x153;My name is Amelia Justice, and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been in the jewelry business BU +VTUJDF +FXFMFST BMM NZ MJGF *U XBT NZ m STU KPC BT B LJE "T TPPO BT * DPVME SFBDI UIF DPVOUFSUPQT * XBT XSBQQJOH QSFTFOUT BOE CFJOH B 4BOUB T IFMQFS QBTTJOH PVU DPPLJFT *U XBT BMM BCPVU XPSL FUIJD .Z GBUIFS 8PPEZ +VTUJDF EJE BQQSBJTBMT BOE TPME HFNTUPOFT PVU PG B TVJUDBTF BOE JU T OPX UIF MBSHFTU KFXFMSZ TVQFSTUPSF JO .JTTPVSJ UIBU ZPV TFF UPEBZ 8F SF BGm MJBUFE XJUI +#5 +FXFMFST PG "NFSJDB 1SFGFSSFE +FXFMFST *OUFSOBUJPOBM BOE XF USBJO PVS TUBGG JO (*" BOE %$" USBJOJOH +VTUJDF +FXFMFST XBT GPVOEFE JO BOE XF XBOUFE UP DFMFCSBUF PVS UI BOOJWFSTBSZ JO B SFBMMZ CJH XBZ 8F XBOUFE UP DFMFCSBUF PVS ZFBST JO UIF DPNNVOJUZ HFU SJE PG TPNF BHFE JOWFOUPSZ BOE KVTU IBWF B CJH CJH TBMF
â&#x20AC;&#x153;The sale was extremely helpful in getting rid of aged inventory and TGCEJKPI QWT Æ&#x201A; PCPEKCN IQCN q Amelia Justice Justice Jewelers 5RTKPIÆ&#x201A; GNF /1
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Contact us today for a free consultation! Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999. Or visit us at wilkersons.com.
CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
INSIDER
DID YOU KNOW?
The happy result of a burrito-frying accident, the chimichanga was purportedly invented in Tucson in the 1920s. JCK Tucson runs Jan. 31–Feb. 3.
TO LEARN MORE, VISIT tucson.jckonline.com.
JCK IN THE USA
Stainless Steel Jewelry for Men
www.arzsteel.com info@arzsteel.com 514-489 8668 Looking for -Sales Reps
JCK contributing editor Brittany Siminitz has the scoop on engagement ring trends, from alternative styles—like these stackables from Dorian & Rose, pictured—to the hottest diamond shapes (ovals and pears). And she hasn’t even gotten started on the Meghan Markle–inspired three-stone revival! But we suspect she will. Keep your eyes peeled on jckinsider.com/trend-files.
SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.
(TOP) ALLEKO/ISTOCK/GETTY
BRIDE & JOY
Last fall, JCK retailer account manager Isabel Cajulis racked up major frequent-flyer miles, ’gramming her way through nine jewelry stores in San Francisco alone. (Here she is, above r., with Love & Luxe owner Betsy Barron.) Follow along at jckinsider.com/jck-travels.
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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
ONLINE
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JCKmagazine
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INSTAGEM FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH We may never see the face of the blogger behind @athousandfacets and the corresponding Tumblr, but this much we know: Girl loves a ring stack. She also loves to spotlight independent jewelry designers (and retailers) all across the U.S. and abroad. Colored French tips FTW!
Yumdrops
©
AGTA Gemfair Tucson 2018 – find delicious color that won’t stick to your teeth. Grab a handful at BOOTH 702 and stack them high.
A quartet of blue-green Jamie Joseph beauties from New York City’s Greenwich St. Jewelers
These Just Jules Deco-inspired emerald rings at the NY Now show demanded to be stacked.
A cluster of Kimberlin Brown’s Sea Anemones with rutilated quartz, Mexican matrix opal, and more
Lace lichen, butterfly wing, and polycarbonate earrings by Luana Coonen, seen at ACC Baltimore
Margery Hirschey working her usual wonders with boulder opals at the Store at MAD’s RE:FINE in NYC
Sporting a trio of rutilated quartz rings by San Francisco–based designer Sam Woehrmann
“His insight reminds us [to] try to think long term. To succeed we must put ourselves… where the business will be in 5 or 10 years.” — JCKonline reader Bryan Boyne G.G. on “Exit Interview With Chaim Even-Zohar”
K I M B E R LY C O L L I N S G E M S . C O M
#AddMoreColorToYourLife
JCKONLINE.COM
W W W. E F F Y H E M A T I A N . C O M
29
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE
NEWS S GEM GEMS CREATED DIRECTION
What’s Clicking on JCKonline
The top stories for November 2017. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline.com/ newsletters/subscribe.
1
More companies are entering the lab-grown diamond fray. But will consumer demand support them? BY ROB BATES
Synthetic Diamond Bears Fake Inscription Matching Natural Report: GIA discovered that the lab-grown round had a phony inscription meant to identify the stone as natural.
2
Lisa Bridge Becomes President of Ben Bridge: She will be the chain’s first female president, as well as its youngest executive in 60 years.
3
South Carolina Jeweler Arrested for Not Having Secondhand License: Gregory Wayne Gibson, owner of Gibson Jewelers, was charged with 15 counts of violating local precious metals laws.
W
4
Midwest Jewelers Hit by String of Smash-andGrabs: The Jewelers’ Security Alliance has warned retailers about a string of thefts in Illinois and Michigan.
5
163 Ct. D Flawless Fetches “Disappointing” $34 Million: The stone was set in a necklace designed by Swiss jeweler de Grisogono.
Crossroads necklace with 19 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds; $96,000; Lovemonster by ALTR Created Diamonds; 646847-2323; altr.nyc/ lovemonster
JCKONLINE.COM
HILE THE JURY is still out about how lab-grown diamonds will fare with consumers, many trade veterans are convinced the stones are the future. In the last few months, Scott Sedlacek, former vice president of merchandising at Reeds Jewelers, joined ALTR Created Diamonds, a New York City–based brand that is now selling at Helzberg Diamonds. Onetime Smyth Jewelers chief operating officer Mark Motes formed Bare Diamond, along with industry marketer Nick Pirie. And industry veteran Daniel Schneider launched his Love Earth line. All are synthetic diamond lines. “I probably see a new lab-grown diamond offer/pitch/ad once a month, from someplace in the world,” says Tom Chatham, one of the pioneers of the created gem market. The people entering this business say they see opportunity. “In the chain store environment, there is a race to the bottom,” Sedlacek says. “We have convinced ourselves that I2 and I3 diamonds are beautiful. But when you put those diamonds
NEWS GEMS
THE SCOOP
MAGAZINE THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
SERVING THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY FOR
149 YEARS
With original, authoritative, and compelling journalism, JCK magazine offers readers expanded coverage of the most important issues and style trends affecting their businesses.
East-West Pear necklace with 0.75 ct. man-made Nexus diamond in 14k rose gold; $349; Diamond Nexus; kyle.blades@forever companies.com; diamondnexus.com
next to a well-made SI or VS, whether it’s man-made or natural, the guest will always choose the better diamond.” Motes admits he used to be “the most outspoken person” against man-made gems. But he’s changed his tune. “Most young people don’t care” if a diamond was produced in a lab, he says. While more lines are appearing on the scene, the number of companies producing these diamonds hasn’t increased. “There is still only a handful of capable producers in both HPHT and CVD,” Chatham says, referring to the two methods of producing synthetic diamonds. “There are numerous machine makers, but that doesn’t mean you can grow competitive product. One of my standard answers to people who come to me to buy a press is ‘Just because you can afford to buy a jet plane doesn’t mean you can fly it.’ ” Alon Ben-Shoshan, a Diamond Foundry veteran who is now involved with virtual bourse Lab Grown Diamond Network, says he believes most labs are operating at a loss. The key question, though, is consumer demand. So far, indications are consumer acceptance is still low, but rising. In The Knot’s 2017 Jewelry & Engagement Study, 25 percent of brides and grooms said they would consider a man-made diamond for a center stone, and 27 percent said they would consider one for an accent stone. That’s up from 2016, when 16 percent said they would consider a lab-grown diamond for a center stone and 18 percent would consider an accent stone.
“It is one of the few days when we can gather with family and friends to give thanks, share a meal, and just enjoy time together.” —Stephen Lebovitz, president and CEO of mall operator CBL Properties, on why his properties closed for Thanksgiving
JCKONLINE.COM
JCKONLINE.COM
NEWS GEMS
Q&A
32
Lisa Bridge Collection Hawaii pendant with rhodochrosite and emeralds in sterling silver; $599
3 Questions for...
LISA BRIDGE Lisa Bridge Hawaii earrings with peridot, amethyst, and emerald in sterling silver; $279
Lisa Bridge Santorini ring with lapis and mother-of-pearl in sterling silver; $199
IN NOVEMBER, LISA Bridge became president and chief operating officer of Ben Bridge Jeweler. She is the fifth generation of her family to work at the jeweler. (Her father, Ed, formerly co-CEO, is now sole CEO and chairman. Her uncle Jonathan, formerly co-CEO, has retired.) Here, she talks about how her fellow millennials view jewelry, issues at malls, and where she wants to take the company.
Fine Jewelry Displays
Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 ,,,- >Z`e^ Kh\d ;eo]' Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com
In what direction do you want to take the business? We did a branding study and engaged a new marketing firm, and we want to get down to what is unique about Ben Bridge. We found out that our customers love us. But we also found that customers donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t recognize the difference between jewelers. There is a tremendous opportunity to differentiate ourselves in the marketplace. As a millennial, what do you think of how your peers view jewelry? The desire for jewelry has been around for thousands of years and will continue to be around. We need to make sure that we are evolving to meet consumer needs and to tell our story as an industry. I have a lot of friends who got married this year, and every one of them got an engagement ring. Every one of them wanted that symbol of love and forever. Maybe that engagement ring looked a little different from years ago. Your stores are mostly in malls. How have you found traffic, given all the issues with malls we are hearing about? It very much depends on the center. The top centers are continuing to draw customers, and they make it an experience. So weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re seeing strength from those top shopping centers. The ones that are lower are more challenging. Those are where people havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t invested and havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t made it unique or an experience. As a relationship business, we have to be drawing in our customers and do a better job of bringing in people on our own.
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NEWS GEMS
INDUSTRY&PEOPLE INDUST ST &P PEOPL PEOP LE
34
Emerald Waterfall earrings with Jasmine-cut diamonds; price on request; Nirav Modi; 212-6030000; niravmodi.com
COMINGS AND GOINGS addition, former Tiffany & Co. CEO Frédéric Cumenal has joined Blue Nile’s board. The Israel Diamond Exchange has reelected Yoram Dvash for a second three-year term as bourse president. Bryan Morgan
tems and technology officer. GIA has welcomed three new governors to its board: Andy Johnson, CEO of Diamond Cellar Holdings; Lawrence Ma, chief executive of Lee Heng Diamond Group; and Karen Evans, national director of the U.S. Cyber Challenge.
Ruth Sommers
De Beers executive head of strategy and corporate affairs Gareth Mostyn is leaving the company after six years. He will join the Church of England as chief finance and operations officer.
Charles & Colvard hired two new sales executives: Nanci Kirczow is now vice president of sales for traditional channels, focusing on growing business from wholesale, retail, and television customers. Jessica Lesesky is VP of sales for online channels, focusing on pure-play online retailers and marketplaces such as Amazon and eBay.
Blue Nile has appointed David Yurman veteran Ruth Sommers chief operating
officer. She most recently served as Yurman’s COO. In JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Gerald Storch, who spent nearly three years as CEO of HBC, owner of Saks Fifth Avenue and Lord & Taylor, has stepped
Australian jewelry retailer Michael Hill has appointed Vanessa Brennan chief customer officer.
Peter Meeus is stepping down
from his role as chairman of the Dubai Diamond Exchange. He will be replaced at the
down. His interim replacement is HBC executive chairman and former CEO Richard Baker. Jessica Lesesky
Canadian retail veteran Brian C. Land has been
United Arab Emirates’ sole bourse by Ahmed Bin Sulayem, chairman of the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre.
appointed general manager of the Canadian Jewellers Association.
24K GALA: COURTESY OF THE 24K CLUB OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
Bryan Morgan, former chief operating officer of Signet, has joined Stuller as chief sys-
J.C. Penney has appointed James Starke senior vice
president and senior general merchandise manager of men’s apparel, children’s apparel, and jewelry, part of a larger shake-up of its merchandising division.
Brian C. Land JCKONLINE.COM
NEWS GEMS
INDUSTRY&PEOPLE
Richemont has appointed Jérôme Lambert to the
newly created role of chief operating officer. In his new role, Lambert, former CEO of Montblanc, will be responsible for all Richemont brands other than Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. In addition, Emmanuel Perrin, currently international sales director for Cartier, will be appointed head of specialist watchmakers distribution.
Jérôme Lambert
OPENING Indian jeweler Nirav Modi has opened two more boutiques in the United States: one at the Wynn Las Vegas, and the other at Honolulu’s Ala Moana Center.
REMEMBERED Mark Boston, the De Beers
broker who early on recognized the potential of the Indian diamond industry, died from cancer Nov. 13. He was 71.
JCKONLINE.COM
Try-and-buy jewelry e-tailer Flont has raised $5 million from private investors, including newly established C Ventures.
Sallie Morton Sallie Morton, the first female president of the American Gem Society and a leading figure in establishing the group’s network of guilds, died Oct. 24 of mesothelioma, a form of cancer caused by asbestos. She was 91.
On Sept. 26, Exelco North America, the local branch of the prominent Belgian diamond company, filed for Chapter 11 protection in Delaware bankruptcy court, along with affiliated companies Exelco NV, FTK Worldwide Manufacturing BVBA, and Ideal Diamond Trading USA.
HONORED
COMPANIES
At its Oct. 14 dinner-dance and gala, the Jewelers 24
Monaco-based Luna Management has acquired Swiss watch brand DeLaneau.
Karat Club of Southern California honored Avi Raz of A&Z Pearls and the Bhindi family of Bhindi Jewelers with its
Swiss watch manufacturer De Bethune has sold a majority stake to an investment consortium. De Beers plans to shut Victor, its Ontario diamond mine, in the first quarter of 2019. The Washington Companies has completed its $1.2 billion acquisition of miner Dominion Diamond Corp. Dominion owns a majority stake in the Ekati diamond mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories as well as 40 percent of the nearby Diavik mine.
Excellence in Service Award. (Pictured here are Dhanesh and Vinod Bhindi, far l. and third from l., with 24 Karat president Karen Signorino and Rolex’s Cliff Cook.) Douglas K. Hucker, CEO of the American Gem Trade Association, received the Lifetime Achievement Award.
24K Club of SoCal gala
NEWS GEMS
36
GEM PRICING
2018 FORECAST: STABLE GROWTH
VS1
VS2
SI1
SI2
GOOD
DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant
FINE
Alexandrite
G
$6,800
$6,320
$5,700
$4,720
H
$6,080
$5,800
$5,450
$4,470
1 to under 2 cts.
$2,750–$4,500
$8,000–$10,000
2 to under 3 cts.
$3,500–$6,000
$9,500–$11,500
Rhodolite Garnet I
$5,700
$5,200
$4,950
$4,000
J
$4,900
$4,500
$4,080
$3,760
1 to under 3 cts.
$30–$70
$70–$110
3 to under 5 cts.
$60–$90
$90–$150
DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round
IN THE UNITED States, gem dealers reported slowerthan-expected business in the lead-up to the holidays. Many noted that independent jewelers were buying only for immediate needs. Actual investment in inventory lagged behind expectations. Overall, however, business was up from 2016, according to reports from dealers. The outlook for the gem trade in 2018 is positive. A string of modest price corrections that began in 2016 and accelerated in 2017 affected many popular varieties, which are no longer trading at peak prices. Among the most prominent of these is ruby, where prices are down as a result of strong supply. A number of dealers expect ruby prices to continue to soften before stabilizing, based on recent auctions of Mozambican ruby that failed to generate much interest. Likewise, in a surprising development, dealers reported that calls for blue sapphire were also below expected levels. During the fall season, blue zircon, aqua, garnet, spinel, tourmaline, and emerald were the strongest sellers.
Rubellite Tourmaline
G
$3,570
$3,200
$2,700
$2,340
H
$3,200
$3,000
$2,600
$2,270
1 to under 3 cts.
$75–$125
$220–$250
3 to under 5 cts.
$110–$225
$275–$375
Tsavorite Garnet I
$2,720
$2,630
$2,250
$2,150
J
$2,240
$2,125
$2,000
$2,050
DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant
1 to under 3 cts.
$575–$850
$1,050–$1,250
3 to under 5 cts.
$1,500–$2,200
$2,500–$3,000
Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)
G
$12,200
$11,300
$9,350
$7,600
H
$10,300
$10,000
$8,300
$7,150
9 to under 12.5 cts.
$3,500–$4,500
$4,500–$8,000
10 to under 13.5 cts.
$4,000–$5,000
$5,000–$9,000
Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I
$9,700
$7,900
$7,600
$6,725
J
$7,200
$7,300
$6,400
$6,000
2 to under 3 cts.
$1,800–$3,500
$5,000–$6,250
3 to under 5 cts.
$2,500–$3,700
$6,500–$9,000
DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut
Pink Sapphire
G
$8,960
$8,100
$7,575
$6,600
H
$8,350
$7,560
$6,800
$6,000
I
$6,475
$6,140
$6,000
$5,400
$5,350
$4,850
$4,770
$4,700
1 to under 3 cts.
$425–$715
$850–$1,100
3 to under 5 cts.
$525–$950
$1,350–$1,800
1 to under 3 cts.
$50–$75
$125–$150
3 to under 5 cts.
$60–$80
$135–$170
Blue Zircon
J
Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.
,
Highlighting segmented products in the emerging niche markets.
JCK LAS VEGAS M A N D A L AY B AY R E S O RT & C A S I N O
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FRIDAY, 7fB É&#x2022; � MONDAY, 7fB É&#x2DC;Ê&#x192; É&#x2013;É&#x201D;É&#x2022;É&#x153; F O R I N F O R M AT I O N V I S I T : J CKO N L I N E.C O M/LASV EGAS THE PREMIER D EST I NAT I O N TO D I S COV E R
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38
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
SHOWS & EVENTS
THE CALENDAR NDA U.S. • JANUARY
26–28
28–29
9–12
GEMFAIRE
12–14
ORIGINAL MIAMI ANTIQUE SHOW
gemfaire.com
49TH ACE IT ANNUAL WINTER EDUCATIONAL CONFERENCE
Hillsboro, Ore.
GEMFAIRE Del Mar, Calif.
26–29
gemfaire.com
NEW ORLEANS GIFT AND JEWELRY SHOW
najaappraisers.com
New Orleans
AGTA GEMFAIR TUCSON
WHOLE BEAD SHOW Honolulu wholebead.com
19–21 GEMFAIRE San Rafael, Calif. gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Houston intergem.com
WHOLE BEAD SHOW Phoenix wholebead.com
20–22 JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE (JIS)
helenbrett.com
26–30 Tucson wholebead.com
26–FEB. 7 PUEBLO GEM & MINERAL SHOW Tucson pueblogemshow.com
27–FEB. 3 TO BEAD TRUE BLUE/TUCSON BEAD SHOW/COLORS OF THE STONE Tucson colorsofthestone.com
Miami
27–FEB. 7 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS
SEATTLE GIFT SHOW Seattle seattlegiftshow.com
21–23 MRKET
30–FEB. 4 Tucson
Tucson (Gem Mall & Holidome) glwshows.com
27–FEB. 10 ARIZONA MINERAL & FOSSIL SHOW Tucson
mzexpos.com
GJX GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Tucson gjxusa.com
30–FEB. 5 TUCSON’S NEW MINERAL SHOW Tucson tucsonsnewmineral show.com
31–FEB. 3 JCK TUCSON Tucson tucson. jckonline.com
• FEBRUARY 1–4 MIAMI BEACH JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW Miami Beach miamibeach jewelryshow.com
27–FEB. 11
25–28
JEWELRY, GEMS & MINERALS EXPO
GEMFAIRE
Tucson (Simpson St. & Michigan St.)
gemfaire.com
jgmexpo.com
8–11
28–30
TUCSON GEM AND MINERAL SHOW
gemandjamfestival.com
25–FEB. 5 TUCSON GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Tucson
CENTURION JEWELRY SHOW
FASHION JEWELRY & ACCESSORY SHOW Las Vegas
January Birthstone
12–14 MAGIC Las Vegas ubmfashion.com
GARNET
12–15 Ring with 6.96 cts. t.w. tsavorite garnet, 1.23 cts. t.w. marquise diamonds, and 0.59 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $39,800; Ivy New York; munisa@yavorskyy.com; ivynewyork.com
WOMENSWEAR IN NEVADA Las Vegas wwinshow.com
16–18
ubmfashion.com
Tucson
10–13
ifjag.com
New York City
12TH ANNUAL GEM & JAM FESTIVAL
originalmiamibeach antiqueshow.com
agta.org
WHOLE BEAD SHOW
jisshow.com
20–23
Tucson
Miami
2–4 Roseville, Calif.
GEMFAIRE
GEMFAIRE
Santa Barbara, Calif.
Costa Mesa, Calif.
gemfaire.com
gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
Chantilly, Va.
Southfield, Mich.
intergem.com
intergem.com
tgms.org
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
16–18
Denver
Seattle
Atlanta
intergem.com
intergem.com
craftcouncil.org
3–5
11–12
ATLANTA JEWELRY SHOW
GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS
GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS
Minneapolis
Atlanta
17–19
23–26
AMERICAN CRAFT RETAILERS EXPO
CALIFORNIA MARKETPLACE
Philadelphia
Los Angeles
9–11
acrephiladelphia.com
californiamarketplace.com
JA NEW YORK
GEMFAIRE
New York City
Pleasanton, Calif.
ja-newyork.com
21–22 AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW–BALTIMORE (WHOLESALE) Baltimore
26–28 COTERIE New York City ubmfashion.com
craftcouncil.org
23–25
Tucson
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW–BALTIMORE Baltimore craftcouncil.org
• MARCH
glwshows.com
GEMFAIRE
11–13
gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW intergem.com
Livonia, Mich.
glwshows.com
atlantajewelry show.com
Philadelphia
AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW–ATLANTA
11–14 ASD MARKET WEEK
Reno, Nev. gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW San Mateo, Calif. intergem.com
Las Vegas asdonline.com
WHOLE BEAD SHOW New York City wholebead.com
2–4 GEMFAIRE Del Mar, Calif. gemfaire.com
Scottsdale, Ariz. centurionjewelry.com
jogsshow.com
GET READY FOR… BASELWORLD MARCH 22–27 JIS APRIL APRIL 14–16
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THE CALENDAR
amberif 25th International Fair of Amber, Jewellery & Gemstones
21-24.03.2018 INTERNATIONAL • JANUARY
9–13
15–19
ambiente.messe frankfurt.com
SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE Geneva sihh.org
AMBIENTE Frankfurt
16–19 INHORGENTA MUNICH Munich inhorgenta.com
19–22 BIJORHCA Paris bijorhca.com
19–22 FENINJER São Paulo
• MARCH
21–24
1–4
amber.amberexpo.pl
AMBERIF
GDAŃSK / POLAND amberif.pl
Gda´nsk, Poland
PREMIERE CLASSE Paris premiere-classe.com
1–5 HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW
22–25 ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW Istanbul istanbuljewelry show.com
Hong Kong m.hktdc.com/fair/ hkjewellery-en
feninjer.com.br
14–17
PREMIERE CLASSE Paris premiere-classe.com
19–23 MAISON & OBJET Paris maison-objet.com
19–24
27– MARCH 3 HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND, GEM & PEARL SHOW
AMBER TRIP INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW Vilnius, Lithuania ambertrip.com
Hong Kong m.hktdc.com/fair/ hkdgp-en
VICENZAORO Vicenza, Italy vicenzaoro.com
23–25 EXPO JOYA Mexico City expojoya.com.mx
24–27 29TH INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY TOKYO Tokyo ijt.jp/en
• FEBRUARY 4–8 JEWELLERY & WATCH Birmingham, England jewelleryandwatch birmingham.com
9–12 SIGNATURE IIJS Mumbai, India iijs-signature.org
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February Birthstone
AMETHYST 18k yellow gold ring with 4.56 ct. amethyst and 0.51 ct. t.w. white and 0.65 ct. t.w. black diamonds; $8,300; Ara Vartanian; info@ara.com.br; aravartanian.com
ambermart 19th International Amber Fair
06-08.09.2018 GDAŃSK / POLAND ambermart.pl organisation Gdańsk International Fair Co.
venue AMBEREXPO Exhibition & Convention Centre jewellery by Jarosław Westermark
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE
SHOP TALK
CARDIGAN: NAN SEO; BELT: KATIE LARES; PANTS: MONZLAPUR; JEWELRY: SOLOMEINA
Elizabeth Solomeina Flying Solo flyingsolo.nyc
A SOLO ARTIST Independent designers are the stars at Elizabeth Solomeina’s Manhattan marketplace, Flying Solo BY EMILI VESILIND PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRAD OGBONNA
FEW YEARS AGO, Elizabeth Solomeina, owner of fine jewelry brand Solomeina, decided she would stop wishing for a New York City retail partner that let independent designers connect directly with their consumers—she would create such a store herself. The designer joined forces (and pooled financial resources) with nearly three dozen other locally based fashion, accessory, and jewelry designers to open Flying Solo, a marketplace that carries and promotes independent luxury designers. The retail shop was conceived as a highly curated environment that would lure stylists and editors—and on any day of the week, you’re likely to find both there. The shop’s business model is just as uncommon and borrows from both the consignment store and the community co-op. Designers pay a monthly flat membership fee that goes toward rent, marketing, and events, and are required to work in the store eight hours every week. The shop found popularity fast, and in June 2017, only a year after opening downtown, Solomeina and her partners relocated to a two-floor space on West Broadway. “I was selling in boutiques worldwide,” Solomeina says, “but at some point I realized that there might be a better way to do this.”
SHOP TALK
INNOVATIVE RETAILER
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Elizabeth Solomeina’s own choker with baroque pearls and diamonds ($1,300)
A Cone Diamond ring by Vitae Ascendere with 2.4 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold ($12,000)
“Flying Solo doesn’t take commission; 100 percent of profits from any piece sold goes directly to the designer.” —Elizabeth Solomeina
One-of-a-kind rose quartz and onyx tassel earrings by Glitter Trunk ($210)
You moved into a bigger store this past summer—how did that change the business? We doubled in designers and tripled in size. We used to be 35 designers, and now we’re 68. We moved because we had a waitlist of designers that was so long, and there were so many amazing designers we wanted to showcase. We have around 11 jewelry designers right now [including GBGH, The Modern Tales, and Vitae Ascendere], around 35 clothing designers, and the rest is split between shoes, bags, and hats. Beyond making sales, how does the store setup benefit the designers? A lot of our designers ended up
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
not being anywhere else; they don’t like consignment, and they say the markups with traditional retail are too much. Flying Solo doesn’t take any commission on sales; 100 percent of profits from any piece sold goes directly to the designer. And on top of that, they can really experiment. Maybe they find out in the store that silver doesn’t sell so well this season, so they switch some silver pieces out for gold-plated pieces. The store allows them to experiment on so many levels. How do you decide where to place designers’ goods in the store? We rotate the entire inventory every week so no one is stuck in back for long. Also, this makes the store feel fresh. In any given week, there will be new pieces in the store—designers are free to bring new pieces in anytime and see how they perform. They can even bring a sample and see how it sells—they don’t have to do a whole production run. Flying Solo does its own biannual New York Fashion Week show— tell us about that.
Yes, we did our second show this September. And this time around we got amazing [media] coverage, including from The New York Times. The show was so packed, we actually had to limit attendance to press only. We showcased all the brands carried in Flying Solo, and we added a few outside ones for the show. The jewelry designers showcase their collections at the beginning. It’s kind of a hybrid of a presentation and a runway show. What do you look for in new collections and jewelry designers? We’re looking for something that’s really unique. It needs to be something exciting for our customers, something you cannot see anywhere else. Flying Solo is sort of how stores in Paris used to be—all unique designers and lots of one-of-a-kind pieces.
GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER
JCKONLINE.COM
GEORGE CHINSEE/WWD/SHUTTERSTOCK; JEWELRY: COURTESY FLYING SOLO
What was your initial idea for Flying Solo? It came out of my own need to have a central place to interact with clients, stylists, and press. And a lot of my friends who are jewelry designers and clothing designers thought we needed a place like this too. But it’s grown into so much more. Now it’s really an industry hub.
SHOP TALK
RETAIL THERAPY
NEW YEAR’S EVOLUTION
DOMINIC MARATTA OWNER DOMINIC’S FINE JEWELRY Sterling Heights, Mich. dominicsfinejewelry.com
BY EMILI VESILIND
Q: What will you do differently in your store in 2018? A:
MEG CARROLL OWNER MEG C JEWELRY GALLERY Lexington, Ky. megcgallery.com
I just moved locations in Lexington, and we’re going to start doing exhibitions showcasing true art jewelry. I’m hoping we can do them at least twice a year. It keeps things fresh and interesting. I’m in a pretty conservative area, so we’re going to start out with a few weird pieces to introduce people to art jewelry—we’ll get weirder and weirder as we go!
THOMAS HART JR. OWNER HART JEWELERS Grants Pass, Ore. hartjewelers.com
A: We’ll be launching a new website and investing more time in marketing efforts, especially when it comes to social media—we need to make a more concerted effort there. We’re doing social media now, but I’d like to get it more streamlined. So we’re talking to a vendor we work with about hiring their social media person to keep our platforms looking fresh for us.
DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.
A: We’re going to move more toward curating and cultivating our own brand, instead of focusing on outside brands as much. My daughters are millennials and are moving us more that way. Also, we’re going to make it so clients can design their own jewelry. We’re setting up a system so they can make an appointment online to come in and meet with us to create a custom piece.
ROBERT ARGO OWNER ARGO & LEHNE JEWELERS Columbus, Ohio argolehne.com
A: Our bridal business has been moving more toward vintage and custom, so we will be offering more custom. We’re seeing a lot more ring shoppers going to solitaire and three-stone rings, so we’ll be [stocking] those too. And ultimately, we’re going to carry a more diverse selection of bridal styles but not in the same quantities as before. We always like to give our cases breathing room. JCKONLINE.COM
SHOP TALK
STORE WE ADORE
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THISTLE & BESS Blocks away from the University of Michigan’s leafy campus and nestled among some of Ann Arbor’s most revered retailers lies Thistle & Bess. It’s both eclectic and well-designed, reflecting owner Diana Marsh’s love for English elegance, Scottish traditions, and a bit of Brooklyn bravado. BY KAREN DYBIS
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
“I just look for pieces that I would like to wear myself!” says Marsh. (Below: Mociun Five Triangle Turquoise and Mega rings; $2,350 each)
COURTESY OF THISTLE & BESS; CENTER: COURTESY OF SILVER THUMB PHOTOGRAPHY
222 N. FOURTH AVE., ANN ARBOR, MICH.
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“It is very empowering to see hardworking women treat themselves to something that brings them happiness.” —Diana Marsh
I
N JUST TWO years, Thistle & Bess has built an appreciative audience in Ann Arbor’s historic Kerrytown district for its clever front-window displays, curated mix of local and international artists, and whimsical selection of handcrafted rings, bracelets, necklaces, and watches. “I am always looking for everyday luxuries—not things that you only wear for special occasions,” Marsh explains. “I also like to look for jewelers that tell a story or have some sort of meaning behind their pieces.” There are Alex Monroe’s delicate bees and bikes, Hortense’s playful mismatched eye earrings, Rebel Nell graffiti rings, Morphe’s Ouija planchette with its mystical, glowing opals—something for every age and interest. They all sit atop delicate dishes and rare books within a stately Charles F. Biele showcase (it still bears the New York address of the venerated manufacturer on its polished front). Marsh built her checkout—a blend of classic marble, glass, and wood in front of a cool wallpaper dotted with book spines— around the jewelry display.
AFTER SCHOOL Retail is actually Marsh’s second career. She spent 11 years as an elementary-school teacher in New York City, where she could fulfill her obsession with antiques and vintage jewelry every weekend. Soon, Marsh had an Etsy shop and an idea for a store. “Being a teacher taught me some pretty important lessons in customer service,” says Marsh, who grew up and went to college in Ann Arbor. “As a teacher, we are trained to meet the needs of all students, JCKONLINE.COM
“I want pieces that feel unique and special, but accessible and wearable,” says Marsh. (Right: Ash Jewelry Studio’s gold-dipped circle pendant in porcelain and gold glaze; $84)
and families, and to be creative in the ways that we present information. I think that really helped prepare me to deal with the different needs of my customers. Also, as a teacher, you have to go with the flow. No day is the same. Owning a shop is a pretty unpredictable venture.”
WORKSHOP TALK Thistle & Bess—named for Marsh’s Scottish heritage, as well as her fondness for history, Queen Elizabeth I, and all things English—carries a wide array of housewares, paper products, children’s goods, and artwork. She also hosts workshops at her store, giving customers access to artists ranging from weavers to letterpress experts to terrarium makers. “My goal,” Marsh says, “is to find artists who think about their work and share them with my customers.”
DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS
THE LOOK 1
SET IN STONE
2
3
1/ Ebony Buckle earrings in 18k yellow gold; $8,200; David Webb; 212421-3030; davidwebb.com
Whether classically inclined or out-of-this-world, inlaid gemstones and wood impart an artistic touch to designer jewels BY RANDI MOLOFSKY
4 2/ Opal inlay heart pendant in 18k yellow gold with diamonds; $5,500; Jennifer Meyer; 844-446-3937; jennifermeyer.com
3/ Opal inlay Galaxy Mosaic cuff in 14k yellow gold with diamonds; $6,500; Jacquie Aiche; 310-5507529 ext. 101; jacquieaiche.com
JCKONLINE.COM
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4/ Earrings with diamond, tanzanite, turquoise, and white marble inlaid with malachite, turquoise, lapis, and mother-of-pearl in 18k gold; $15,200; Silvia Furmanovich; 866301-MUSE; silviafurmanovich.com
5/ Abalone elephant cufflinks in sterling silver; $450; Jan Leslie; 212-679-5337; janleslie.com
THE LOOK
RED CARPET
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THE BEAD GOES ON The perennially popular tassel embodies this year’s most classic jewelry trend BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
We were thrilled to see Portman—not typically a statement-jewelry wearer— jazz up a little Dior black dress with ruby tassels at an L.A. Dance Project gala (she was a co-chair). The kicky Van Cleef & Arpels drops were a natural choice: VCA is a supporter of LADP, which was founded by Portman’s husband, Benjamin Millepied; he’s a former principal dancer for the New York City Ballet, which premiered the Balanchine piece Jewels, inspired by the legendary gems of— you guessed it!—Van Cleef & Arpels. Soleil d’Orient earrings with sapphires, diamonds, emeralds, spinels, and pearls in 18k white and rose gold; price on request; Van Cleef & Arpels; 877-VAN-CLEEF; vancleefarpels.com
Jharna earrings in 18k white gold with diamonds, pearls, and ruby tassel; $7,360; Amrapali; 800-210-6773; amrapali.com
Modern Craft earrings in cinnamon with silk cord beads and onyx stone tops; $195; Lizzie Fortunato; kathryn@lizzie fortunato.com; lizziefortunato.com
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
UNDER $10,000
KATHARINE McPHEE
At a recent SAG-AFTRA Foundation awards event in Los Angeles, McPhee rocked a cape-style tuxedo jacket, a lace-trimmed Maria Lucia Hohan gown, and Wonder Woman–worthy stacks of mixed metal and diamond bracelets on both arms. But it was the actress-singer’s gorgeous green Gilan shoulder dusters—which provided a much-needed pop to her otherwise all-black ensemble—that really made our jaws drop. (Well, the earrings and her picture-perfect smoky eye makeup.) Color us emerald with envy. 18k white gold earrings with emeralds, black and white diamonds, and 71.34 cts. t.w. emerald beads; $17,675; Gilan; 917-213-0349; gilan.ist Tassel earrings in
UNDER $2,500
18k yellow and black gold vermeil with green agate beads and lab-grown white diamonds; £1,295 ($1,708); Anabela Chan; sales@ anabelachan.com; anabelachan.com
UNDER $500
UNDER $1,000
Green onyx tassel ball earrings with micro-pavé emerald zircons in 22k gold vermeil; £495 ($653); Látelita London; sales@ latelita.com; latelita.com
JCKONLINE.COM
PORTMAN: STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE/GETTY; MCPHEE: JON KOPALOFF/FILMMAGIC/GETTY
NATALIE PORTMAN
THE NEW MARK OF EXCELLENCE Discover a new level of excellence in fashion forward silver jewelry. Always in style, with universal appeal, our creations are hand-forged in the U.S. for flawless design and lasting perfection. Each piece reflects the unique style that every discerning woman desires. To become a brand partner, call us today at 800.828.1122 or visit edlevinjewelry.com.
E.L. Designs ED LEVIN STUDIO
THE LOOK
DESIGNER SHOWCASE
52
GRAND DESIGNER
With his emphasis on aesthetics and wearability, Adel Chefridi is truly a craftsman for the 21st century
I
BY LORI WHITE Multi Sapphire Lights pendant in 18k yellow gold with 0.4 ct. t.w. multicolored sapphires and 0.15 ct. t.w. diamonds on 16-inch chain; $5,490
Semimounts in 18k yellow gold and platinum with 0.03 ct–0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,250–$3,750; Adel Chefridi; 866-4288777; chefridi.com
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
T’S A BLUSTERY late-November day in New York’s Hudson Valley, and designer Adel Chefridi is at his bench on the second floor of his Kingston, N.Y., studio, painstakingly engraving the charm of an earring. He covers the charm with a black Sharpie and polishes off the ink, leaving behind a slight shadow in the grooves of the engraving. “Air moves the metal in an intentional way,” he explains. “A lot of things don’t come to life until the last moment, when you’re polishing.” The engraving is delicate and artful. After design, stone setting and engraving are Chefridi’s bailiwick, but he resists being categorized. “It feels when you identify yourself as something, you’ve caged yourself,” he says. “And you set expectations. At some point, I accepted the label of designer, with precaution. I’m not a jeweler in the classic term. So, if you come to me to make a general work, I will send you to a jeweler, because it’s not what I do. We don’t do things in hundreds. We’ll do two, three pieces. It’s the stones that make the piece unique.” The studio produces pieces that you’ll see in galleries (Art + Soul in Boulder, Colo., for example) or catalogs (Sundance), but the designer’s handcrafted one-of-a-kind works are his main concentration. And those are defined by his love of stones. “The stones come first,” he says. Chefridi came to New York City from Tunisia in 1998 to study jewelry-making. He learned his craft at GIA and took an intensive diamond-setting class at Studio Jewelers Ltd. in Manhattan. He met his wife and business JCKONLINE.COM
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DESIGNER SHOWCASE
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Bands in 18k yellow and 18k rose gold with 0.16 ct.–0.33 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,875–$3,500
Nomad earrings in 18k yellow gold with 0.26 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,200
“I struggled with identity for a long time. My teacher at jewelry school… would say, ‘You don’t fit in the mold.’” —Adel Chefridi
partner, Corinne, a few weeks after his arrival—on the subway. Chefridi had a showroom in Manhattan, and he and Corinne lived in Brooklyn with their two girls. After 10 years of city living and spending many weekends at their beloved cabin in Ulster County, the family moved to Woodstock, N.Y. On the Woodstock property, he built a two-story studio, which he eventually outgrew, so he moved into his current airy space in Kingston’s Stockade District in 2016. The studio is just a few blocks from where the British tried to burn Kingston, the first capital of New York, to the ground during the Revolutionary War in October 1777. The choice of locale is fitting. Kingston has seen its share of hard times, but it’s experiencing a true resurgence as an influx of artists, designers, and other creators have moved into the area in search of a less hectic lifestyle and more affordable housing options that will allow them to continue making art. Chefridi, always the artist, feels perfectly at home. “I grew up in a poor environment, so we didn’t have things, but we made things,” he says. “We didn’t have a ball, so we made a ball. So, it was creative in that sense. Creativity was part of playing.” JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
His studio is creativity made tangible. Two young jewelers, Jen and Rose, work at their respective benches across the studio. Jen works on a necklace with colored sapphires from Madagascar, and accompanying those gems in a tray on her bench are two stunning Mozambican rubies. Chefridi teaches his assistants to set stones. Both Jen and Rose went to “very good schools, but they didn’t learn to set stones,” he says. The first employee he taught to set stones has since ventured out on his own as an independent jeweler. Chefridi says, with complete humility, that you can’t tell the difference between his stone setting and his former apprentice’s, except that the apprentice’s settings “are better, because he does it all the time.” The artist is not the only one responsible for design. “The whole studio is participating,” he says. “We sit together and meet all the time. We discuss projects together, and then we start implementing those projects. I like that participation and the creative process. We take things from idea to finished piece.” Sketches are usually drawn before the wax casting process takes place, but occasionally a piece goes straight to the casting room. “Sometimes we just go for it,” Chefridi says, smiling. Quality control, another of Chefridi’s responsibilities, is a vital component of his design ethos. “There is a new group of designers that says you can be creative, you can break the mold, you can go to new territory without compromising the quality,” he says. “To do something new, you don’t need to break all the rules. The difference between a JCKONLINE.COM
An American Wedding Deserves An American Made Band TM
www.hooverandstrong.com 800-759-9997
DESIGNER SHOWCASE
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Nostalgia Harmony pendant in sterling silver and 18k yellow gold with sapphire and 0.14 ct. t.w. diamonds on 18-inch oxidized silver chain; $3,375
Tapered Multi Sapphire ring in 18k yellow gold with multicolored sapphires; $2,465
Crown-set solitaire semimount in platinum and 18k yellow gold with 0.18 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,840
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
work of art that you hang on a wall and a necklace is that you’re going to wear that necklace, so it’s important that it doesn’t break or that the stones don’t fall out. It’s important for a ring to be comfortable. “Those are practical things,” he adds. “You want to bring the aesthetic ideals to the bench and [at the same time] do practical things.” That distinction is evident in Chefridi’s ability to stand in the shoes of his wearer and understand what she (or he) needs and wants from him in a piece. “There is a user here that you need to be aware of—that is design,” he says. “When you’re an artist you can do anything you want for yourself. You can make a painting or a piece of music any way you want. When you’re a designer, you’re bound by the usability of that piece. There is an element of, almost, compassion in it, because you have to picture yourself in that position. It’s not just me. Design is an inclusive experience. It’s not an individual experience. You have to immerse yourself in the other, too.” Chefridi is adept in immersing himself in “the other,” and not only from a design viewpoint. When JCK visited, he was prepping for his post-Thanksgiving open studio and sample sale as well as the upcoming winter shows: NY Now, JCK Tucson, and American Craft Show Baltimore. The Baltimore show, he explains, is perfect for his work because the “people really appreciate the colored stones. Showgoers are more art oriented, not classic jewelry stores.” This is why Debbie Klein’s Art + Soul gallery in Boulder is such a popular outlet for Chefridi’s work. “Debbie sells jewelry and paintings,” he says. “She used to work at Christie’s, and she has a sharp eye.” Chefridi shows new designs at each show he attends. At JCK Tucson in February, he will be unveiling a multicolored sapphire collection as well as the engraved 18k gold and diamond Nomad collection. He genuinely enjoys talking to people at shows—and watching as they try on his pieces. “When I see women trying pieces on at shows, they don’t look at the piece itself; they look at how they look in the piece,” he says. “They’re not trying to be more beautiful or be someone else—they’re trying to access their own beauty. “I get a lot of design ideas when I talk to people and when I see people try things on. I take notes on the back of a receipt. I have a folder of little receipts, little scribbles. That’s when the creativity happens.” JCKONLINE.COM
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THE LOOK
Q&A
58
Asks...
AARON FURLONG
A peek into the colorful world of the artist behind Aaron Henry Designs Aaron Henry Designs’ five-row reversible sapphire bracelet
FOR OUR ANNUAL pre–Gem Week issue, it’s only fitting that we feature a designer who’s as besotted with colored stones as we are. Aaron Furlong works natural wonders with vibrant spinel and paints wearable mosaics with multicolored sapphires. Not surprisingly, those happen to be Furlong’s favorite gems: “So many colors and great brilliance!” Look for Aaron Henry Designs at JCK Tucson, where Furlong will debut some shoulder-duster earrings, “one of which converts from one to three strands.” And be sure to gawk at the spinel and sapphires. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 49 Number of years in the biz: 28 Number of employees you oversee: Five Family and pets: My wife and I have two sons, Parker and Riley, one daughter, Katie, and a Portuguese water dog—R.B., named after the “Notorious RBG” [Ruth Bader Ginsburg]. Describe your personal style: Understated. First piece you ever designed: In college I would make bead necklaces for friends based on music I was into at the time. The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: The five-row reversible sapphire bracelet with a green-blue-violet fade on one side and pink-red-orange-yellow fade on the other. It has 135 small links and drapes like fabric. JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Spinel shoulderduster earrings
Best piece of advice you ever received: “The only way to fail is to give up.” Worst piece of advice: “You should have your jewelry made overseas; it would be cheaper.” First job ever: In high school, I was a gift wrapper for Gump’s during the holidays. How did you get started designing jewelry? I apprenticed with a master jeweler for nine years and started to work out some ideas on the side with my father that eventually developed into our first collection, Celebration. If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? Ski patroller: I spent five years on ski patrol at a local mountain; it was incredibly rewarding and fun. I love being outdoors. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Four Stacking Branch rings, representing my wife and three kids. Items on your desk right now: Headphones so I can listen to music and podcasts while I work, pictures of my kids, tickets to upcoming L.A. Kings hockey games, and a box full of waxes and silver models I keep playing around with. Songs on your playlist: “Impossible,” Anberlin; “Ain’t Nothing You Can Do,” Van Morrison; “My Body,” Young the Giant; “Honky Tonk Heroes,” Waylon Jennings; “Slippery People,” Talking Heads. Exercise regimen: I swim with a masters group twice a week, run with friends twice a week, and try to get at least one bike ride each week as well. What did you have for breakfast? Today was a strawberry croissant and a cappuccino. It’s usually some combination of pastry and coffee. Guilty pleasure: My son got me hooked on Game of Thrones and I am just starting season 7. It’s a great way to spend time on a transatlantic flight. Drink (daytime/evening): Beer/wine. Sometimes I reverse that depending on what I’m eating. First website you check every day: Kitco for current gold pricing. Scent: I love the desert after a rainstorm, night-blooming jasmine, the ocean, and a good pinot noir. How do you unwind? Transcendental meditation and exercise. Book you’re reading: The Age of Reason, Thomas Paine. Book you’ve been meaning to get to: The Perfect Wave, Heinrich Päs. Favorite movie: The Shawshank Redemption. Who would play you in your life story? Ansel Elgort, I think, for the early years. Personal motto: “The difference between an adventure and an ordeal is your attitude.” JCKONLINE.COM
SKI SCENE: MBBIRDY/E+/GETTY; BEER: HYRMA/ISTOCK/GETTY; GAME OF THRONES: COURTESY HBO; THE SHAWSHANK REDEMPTION: MARY EVANS/RONALD GRANT/EVERETT COLLECTION
Large Mosaic ring with ombré sapphires
MAGAZINE FRESH NEW LOOK, SAME INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
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I couldn’t be more excited about the new JCK magazine, including the website and the social media.... YOU GUYS NAILED IT.
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—Ursula Piekut, marketing director, Treliss Worldwide Inc.
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—Dallas Prince, designer
Absolutely LOVE the new JCK issue! Very well done, beautiful aesthetic, and SO MUCH FUN TO READ.
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“ . .. .
L O V E Current. Luxury-focused. Smart. Great work. ” —Dan Scott, CMO, World Trade Jewelers
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Get Set for 2018 Be on the lookout for these new catalogs: Diamonds and Gemstones 2018-2019 Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never been easier to access the largest diamond and gemstone inventory in the industry. Bridal 2018-2019 The big book of bridal jewelry just got bigger and better. Items featured, top to bottom: 123491, 123554, 123325, 123459, 123511, and 123492
Learn more at Stuller.com/Catalogs. Stuller.com
800 877 7777
HAIR: JEANIE SYFU/ATELIER MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP: REGINA HARRIS; STYLING: JEN SMITH; MANICURE: RACHEL SHIM USING CHANEL LE VERNIS/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; MODEL: ALECIA MORAIS/THE SOCIETY MANAGEMENT; CLOTHING: SEE P. 69.
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Deco triple flower ring in 18k rose gold with pink, blue, and green sapphires and champagne diamonds, price on request, Ileana Makri, artemis@rainbowwave. com, ileanamakri.com; Mexican turquoise ring with diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $1,995, Sorellina, 646-745-6831, sorellinanewyork.com
FEATURES Photograph by Jean-Philippe Malaval
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FROM IRIDESCENT OPAL TO M U LT I C O L O R E D S A P P H I R E S TO TOURMALINE IN JUST ABOUT A N Y S H A D E Y O U C A N D R E A M O F, THESE LUSCIOUS GEMS A R E G U A R A N T E E D T O L E AV E YO U O N A R A I N B OW H I G H
Photography by Jean-Philippe Malaval Stylist Jen Smith Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi
STONE UN TURNED 18k white gold earrings with 45.31 cts. t.w. emerald beads and 0.4 ct. t.w. diamonds, $17,600, Nina Runsdorf, 212-3821243, nsrjewelry. com; turquoise dome ring in 18k gold with turquoise stone, $7,000, Established, 646-745-6831, establishedjewelry. com; 18k white gold large Treasure ring with 2.71 cts. t.w. green and 2.14 cts. t.w. burgundy diamonds, $17,300, Ileana Makri, artemis@
rainbowwave. com, ileanamakri. com; 14k yellow gold Nico necklace, $870, Selin Kent, sales@selinkent. com, selinkent. com; long bead and chain necklace with malachite, aquamarine, and tourmaline in 18k gold, $2,250, David Yurman, 212-752-4255, davidyurman.com; Dot bead malachite bracelet with sterling silver and cord, $450, John Hardy, 888-838-3022, johnhardy.com
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22k and 18k yellow gold earrings with 38.19 cts. t.w. tourmaline and 0.12 ct. t.w. diamond, $17,765, Margery Hirschey, sales@ margeryhirschey.com, margeryhirschey.com; large Botanical leaf ring in 18k rose gold with pink sapphires and champagne diamonds, $6,225, Michael Aram, 866-792-ARAM, michaelaram.com; 14k yellow gold multicolored cluster ring, $1,340, Eriness, orders@eriness. com, eriness.com; Dew Drop 18k yellow gold and 18k palladium white gold lariat with diamond, green garnet, and 11 mm Tahitian pearl, $2,485, K.Mita Design, 646633-4573, k-mita.com
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Single earring with garnet and diamond pavĂŠ bar, $1,885, Paige Novick, 212252-1441, paigenovick. com; 22.33 ct. Lapis Lace pendant, $5,625, Adel Chefridi, 866428-8777, chefridi.com 18k Cluster Trio ring with 2.85 cts. t.w. rubies and 0.189 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,500, Temple St. Clair, 212-219-8664, templestclair.com
Multicolored tourmaline Gypsy earrings in 14k yellow gold, $4,825, RetrouvaĂ, 646-7456831, retrouvai.com; Desert Rising Collier necklace with tanzanite, Sleeping Beauty turquoise, iolite, orange sapphire, spessartite garnet, morganite, blue zircon, and strawberry, pink, seafoam green, and yellow tourmaline, $52,650, Marlo Laz, sales@marlolaz.com, marlolaz.com
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(P. 61) HOOD: STYLIST’S OWN; JACKET: LYKKE WULLF/LYKKEWULLF.COM; (THIS PAGE, P. 63 & 66) SWEATER & COAT: PILGRIM NYC/PILGRIMNYC.COM; (PP. 64–65) JACKET: HILDUR YEOMAN/HILDURYEOMAN.COM; (P. 67) DRESS AND COAT: CALVIN LUO/CALVINLUO.US
Prachi necklace with 170 cts. t.w. turquoise and 3.3 cts. t.w. diamonds in rhodium-plated sterling silver, $7,500, Modern Moghul, 361-239-8799, modernmoghul.com; 18k gold antique Hungarian opal and synthetic spinel earrings, $19,900, Renee Lewis, 212-580-3971, reneelewisjewelry. com; Barrels ring in 18k gold with cabochon amazonite, sapphires, and pavé diamonds, $1,500, Pure Form mixedmetal four-row ring in bronze, sterling silver, and brass with pavé cognac diamonds, $950, David Yurman, 212-7524255, davidyurman.com; 18k yellow gold hinged cuff with Sleeping Beauty turquoise and diamonds, $22,500, Dana Bronfman, sales@ danabronfman.com, danabronfman.com
SPOTLIGHT
GC LEA SMS HEROES WHETHER THEY’RE S U D D E N LY S E X Y OPAQUE STONES OR F A C E T E D F AV O R I T E S IN UNUSUAL HUES, THESE ARE THE FIVE T O WAT C H I N 2 0 1 8 . FILL YOUR POCKETS A C C O R D I N G LY.
By Amy Elliott
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ESIGNER DIANE VON Furstenberg has said that “all fashion begins in the street,” then works its way up to the runways. While the world of jewelry, where trends are slow to emerge and stick, isn’t seeing the exact same phenomenon, something similar is happening: Consumer interest in certain colored gemstones is being dictated by the small, artisan workshops of young urban designers. Certainly the gems and color stories favored by more aspirational names—think David Yurman and Erica Courtney—or red-carpet mainstays, such as Irene Neuwirth and Lorraine Schwartz, are influential. But when emerging designers share their work on social media or, just as often, are highlighted in the press, they create widespread demand for select colors and expose the consumer to stones she may never have known existed. So what stones should be on your shopping list for 2018? Having collectively attended a battery of trade shows and press previews, we considered our own observations. We also consulted stonecutters and suppliers, in-the-know influencers, and designers (and their Instagram feeds) for their insights. The results are in: Here are the top five gems to scout for at February’s Tucson gem shows and beyond. Happy hunting!
SAPPHIRE No surprise that this gem is by far the hottest mover. What is surprising are the colors most in demand. “People are talking about sapphires in teal, gray, green, lime yellow, and slate,” says Eric Braunwart, owner of Columbia Gem House in Vancouver, Wash. “I don’t think most jewelers have even one of these colors in stock, but I’m getting requests to cut them because young customers are coming into the stores asking for what they see on Instagram.” While it would be hard to claim that traditional blue sapphires from Myanmar, Kashmir, or Sri Lanka are “out,” it’s wise to consider alternative sources such as Africa, Australia, and the state of Montana, which tend to produce the colors that many indie designers—and their millennial clientele—are seeking. “Off-color sapphires are my favorite colored gems,” affirms Fort Worth, Texas– based designer Megan Thorne. “Initially I was drawn to undertones of green and gray as a natural-looking choice over the often heat-treated, or extremely expensive, true blue hues, but now I celebrate the muted mossy and foggy shades, as well as those that are a bright mint-tinged teal, for the inherent individuality they offer. Sorting through these sapphires feels so personal, as specific as selecting the perfect shade from the Pantone book.” Further proof that sapphires in this family are worth a second look: A color dubbed Arcadia, a pretty green with blue undertones, appears in Pantone’s spring 2018 palette.
Bluez Curve necklace with deep and light blue sapphires in 14k yellow gold; $1,300; Ruta Reifen; info@ rutareifen.com; rutareifen.com Custom platinum earrings with 7.89 cts. t.w. cushion-cut forest-green Montana sapphires and 3.35 cts. t.w. diamonds; $24,859; Colin Skelly for Green Lake Jewelry Works; krista@ greenlakejewelry. com; greenlake jewelry.com Gunta ring with round blue-green Montana sapphire in recycled 14k yellow gold; $1,630; East Fourth Street; info@ eastfourthstreet.com; eastfourthstreet.com Mini Gateways pendant with blue sapphire in 18k yellow gold; $1,050; ARK; 646-745-6831; arkfinejewelry.com
GREEN LAKE EARRINGS: EDWIN ROSS III
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MALACHITE Nearly all of our sources cited green as a popular color going into 2018, making malachite even more of a sure thing (we’ve had our eye on it since the beginning of 2017). Seen at couture jewelers Taffin de Givenchy, Roberto Coin, and Van Cleef & Arpels, malachite has a graphic, glamorous quality that luxury jewelers and their clients appreciate. It’s also a natural choice for many artisan studio jewelers like Jessica Winzelberg. “We already have a waitlist for our sold-out Mobile earring,” says the Los Angeles–based designer. “I started to see an uptick in interest late this summer. I think people realize they can wear malachite year-round—to a board meeting, a summer wedding, or a holiday party.” Meanwhile, New York City–based designer Dana Bronfman, who plans to debut some malachite pieces at the JCK Tucson show, which runs from Jan. 31 to Feb. 3 at the JW Marriott Tucson Starr Pass Resort & Spa, is drawn to the stone’s unique swirls and banding. “I may purchase more malachite if I find some from a source I feel good about supporting and if [the parcel] aligns visually with my design aesthetic,” she says.
Malachite bauble ring in 18k yellow gold; $5,000; Established; 646-745-6831; established jewelry.com Bohème Dana ring with oval malachite in 18k yellow gold bezel on oxidized silver band; $580; Delphine Leymarie; sales@ delphineleymarie. com; delphine leymarie.com
Constellation beaded necklace in 18k yellow gold with malachite and diamonds; $12,500; Adam Foster Fine Jewelry; 314-771-3390; fosterjewelry.com Malachite Mobile earrings in sterling silver and 14k yellow gold; $355; Jessica Winzelberg; info@ jessicawinzelberg. com; shop.jessica winzelberg.com
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HEYMAN RING: COURTESY OF BRIAN MOGHADAM PHOTOGRAPHY FOR AGTA
BICOLOR TOURMALINE According to the American Gem Trade Association, demand for tourmalines—especially the bicolor and tricolor varieties—will grow even stronger in 2018. A survey of the 2018 AGTA Spectrum Awards submissions revealed several watermelon tourmalines and their ilk, with Oscar Heyman’s jaw-dropping 19.4 ct. emerald-cut tourmaline cocktail ring receiving a well-deserved honorable mention. But jewelers and designers at every level find the bicolor tourmalines irresistible, including Lauren Kessler of New York City–based Lauren K. “I love that ‘bicolor’ can mean purple-pink, pink-blue, blue-green, or purple-green, so I am always intrigued and never bored,” she says. According to Kessler, the stone is well known to sophisticated consumers, and now it’s up to stores to stock it and make it more visible. “It’s a great conversation piece,” she notes. “Consumers are naturally interested and curious when they see it and want to know more.”
Pink Mystique earrings with 17.02 cts. t.w. bicolor pink tourmaline, and pink sapphire, ruby, and diamond accents in 14k white and yellow gold; $4,160; K.Mita Design; 646-633-4573; k-mita.com Ring with 19.4 ct. emeraldcut bicolor tourmaline and diamonds in platinum; $70,000; Oscar Heyman; 212-593-0400; oscarheyman.com Joyce earrings with 55.36 cts. t.w. blue tourmaline and diamond accents in 18k yellow gold; $8,250; Lauren K; info@ laurenk.com; laurenk.com Green-blue tourmaline slice ring in 14k green gold backed with sterling silver; $1,585; Judi Powers; info@judipowersjewelry.com; judipowersjewelry.com
74 Fleur d’Amour ring with white diamonds, fancy yellow and fancy orange-brown diamonds, and red spinel in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Crevoshay; 505-8982888; crevoshay.com
Pink Peony ring with oval pink and lavender spinels and white diamonds in 14k white gold; price on request; Dallas Prince Designs; 310-625-0200; dallasprincedesigns.com
Rose Leaf necklace with black spinel and champagne diamonds in 18k rose gold; $19,000; Alex Soldier; 212-354-4244; alexsoldier.com
Reine ring with 8.69 ct. cushion-cut gray spinel and diamonds in 18k gold; price on request; Carley Jewels; carley@carleyjewels.com
SPINEL Like foodies with their affinity for exotic delicacies, jewelry insiders have always revered spinel as a stone of great beauty, and it’s just now starting to enter the mainstream. “There are some astounding colors in the spinel family, and they have a high refractive index that makes them sparkle and delight the eye,” says Albuquerque, N.M.–based designer Paula Crevoshay, who is partial to the highly prized flamered variety from Myanmar.
Los Angeles designer Dallas Prince shares Crevoshay’s affection for the stone and confirms its growth in popularity. “Spinel has become the new sapphire,” she says. “As a certified hoarder of red spinel, I have now shifted my obsession to shades of pink, lavender, and rose.” More emerging designers are beginning to catch on. This could have something to do with the AGTA’s 2016 naming of spinel as an alternate August birthstone or might be because David
Yurman, Alex Soldier, and some of the more commercial QVC lines often work with black spinel as a less expensive substitute for black diamonds. “Spinel is a way to have that high-end couture look but keep your designs affordable,” says Prince, who suggests exploring the entire spectrum of shades. Our take: Look for spinels from Tanzania, and consider stockpiling “off” colors—e.g., purplish grays, silver-tinged mauves, and steely blues—which have an unconventional beauty (and a better price point).
PINK OPAL With its gorgeous hue—deeper than that of angel skin coral, closer to a conch pearl (or a strawberry macaron)—and glossy, gumball-smooth texture, the appeal of this opaque gem from the Peruvian Andes needs little justification. “Pink opal is also found in Australia, but doesn’t have the ‘fire’ unique to the more common Australian and Ethiopian opals,” says gemologist and blogger Erica Silverglide, aka @gemologygeek. “Yet they have a romantic quality that designers love to play with.” One such designer is Pamela Huizenga. “Because it’s opal, it’s an easy stone to explain,” she says. “It’s a great opportunity to discuss all the various colors of opals, the regions where they’re found, and why pink is so coveted. The color is flattering on every woman, and it’s one of my absolute favorites.” More reasons to think pink: The spring 2018 runways were teeming with blush-to-flamingo shades, and floral-themed fashion jewelry and watches in a similar palette are likewise expected to be in vogue. That means retailers can easily position pink opal pieces as an on-trend yet elevated choice for accessorizing the latest styles.
Yin Yang ring in 14k yellow gold with pink opal and diamonds; $3,430; Retrouvaí; 646745-6831; retrouvai.com Akoya pearl and pink opal bangle in 14k gold– plated sterling silver; $187; Bounkit; 212244-1877; bounkit.com One-of-a-kind ring with carved pink opal and diamonds in 18k rose gold; price on request; Irene Neuwirth; 310-450-6063; ireneneuwirth.com
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LE X T V LO E L OK NEED NEW JEWELS FOR THE NEW YEAR? THESE FIVE TRENDS—SCULPTURAL BRASS S T Y L E S , S L I M A N D S E X Y L A R I AT S , KESHI PEARLS, OPAQUE STONES (THINK TIGER’S EYE, MALACHITE, AND MORE), A N D M I X - A N D - M AT C H E A R R I N G S — W I L L K E E P CUSTOMERS COMING BACK ALL YEAR LONG.
Photography by Stephen Lewis
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S E A C OF NI FROM SAFES TO SANDBAGS TO OFFSITE SERVERS, HERE’S HOW RETAILERS ARE PREPARING FOR NATURAL DISASTERS By Martha C. White
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OST OF US don’t spend much time dwelling on natural disasters, but last year’s trio of hurricanes—Harvey, Irma, and Maria—along with devastating wildfires in California brought the issue into sharper focus. For jewelry retailers, the issue is one of safety for themselves, their families, and their workers. In addition to taking precautions to keep their homes and personal belongings safe, they have to ensure that their stores and everything in them—from data to the merchandise itself—weather the storm. “This year, there have been so many events, one right after the other, and so many reasons why jewelers need to carefully consider what their business continuity plan is,” says David Sexton, vice president of loss prevention consulting at Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co. “The insurance industry is looking at this very carefully.”
ANTICIPATE RISKS To the extent that it is possible, good preparation is critical to getting back on
your feet after a natural disaster. Here, your insurance agent can be an invaluable guide. Policies contain many of the details needed to implement a contingency plan for business interruption. “A big piece of that plan is always communication about the plan so people know how to mitigate the impact of these events,” Sexton says. “You’ve got key vendors, you’ve got key employees, you’ve got customers in some cases,” and all will need to be contacted as soon as possible after the fact if you experience losses. Experts as well as jewelers who have been there say that when restarting a business after such an interruption, it’s imperative to have data—everything from inventory lists to vendor contracts—backed up off-site. If paper records are damaged or destroyed, you’ll need to be able to access that information. Even if it is stored on a computer in the store, be sure to have physical or digital backups on disks or an external hard drive/flash drive, on a remote server, or in the cloud. “Having adequate records off-site is probably the biggest single thing retailers don’t do that causes them the most grief when the time comes,” says John J. Kennedy, president of the Jewelers’ Security Alliance. “They don’t think of all the things they need to know about what they have.”
PAVEL HLYSTOV/ISTOCK/GETTY
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HAVE A DISASTER PLAN IN PLACE Securing a business against natural disasters is a multistep process. Retailers in hurricane- or blizzard-prone parts of the country have a slight advantage, given that they usually have a window of two to three days to literally and figuratively batten down the hatches of their stores. That often means placing sandbags around the building and storm shutters over doors and windows to prepare for a hurricane, and preventing frozen pipes and arranging for ice and snow removal in the face of a winter storm. The lead time also gives retailers the chance to review and update their emergency plan to make sure the store’s employees, facility, and merchandise remain safe. For disasters that bear down and become dangerous more quickly, such as earthquakes, wildfires, or tornadoes, savvy jewelers say the best course of action is maintaining a state of continual preparedness. “We’ve learned a lot of things over the years,” says Sanat Bhindi, co-owner of Bhindi Jewelers in Artesia, Calif., an area prone to wildfires, including the Canyon Fire that ravaged nearby Anaheim in October. “This is the seventh or eighth time we evacuated.” Just as each of his family members keeps a “go bag” of important personal identification documents and other essentials, Bhindi says the store’s emergency plans also include a go bag of critical paperwork. “We have a designated area with important documents. We have a lot of stuff in the safe—but documents are more important.” Bhindi adds that he has prepared for the possibility that he might not have the chance to grab hard copies. “If we didn’t have time, we’ve scanned and put everything in the cloud.”
was modernized with new electricity and plumbing, and the vault was installed. That vault is cemented and sealed in.” While built-in vaults are generally the gold standard, they might be logistically or financially challenging for jewelers to acquire and install. “Very few have vaults,” Kennedy says. “They don’t have the space or inclination for a vault.” Safes, although effective, can be vulnerable to the extent that they could be dislocated by fast-moving water or turned into a crucible in a particularly hot-burning fire. “When your entire building burns down, the temperature is so high it could melt everything in your safe,” Bhindi says. Safes can also be taken outright. After Hurricane Katrina in 2005, Kennedy says, some would-be burglars attempted to breach damaged and unguarded jewelry stores in rowboats to steal valuables.
DON’T FORGET UTILITIES, STAFF, AND SECURITY
Even if a structure is undamaged by a natural disaster, power or water outages might prevent a retailer from reopening. Jewelers also have to assess whether it is safe—or even possible—for their employees to make it to work, and if the premises will be secure in a possibly chaotic environment. In the event of a power failure, a backup power generator can help your store stay open for business. “The big issue with hurricanes is getting back online, getting your electricity and your water going, primarily,” Hartington says. After Hurricane Irma, “we didn’t have water or electricity for over two weeks. That was a big issue for us. We take the storm shutters down, but you can’t really have anybody coming to work if you have no water and nobody’s coming shopping.” Between lacking power and lacking water, the former is potentially more problematic because PROTECT YOUR INFORMATION digital phone and other data connections can be Data redundancy is crucial, Sexton agrees. “We disrupted. Power outages can hinder customer do have jewelers that have information backed and vendor transactions as well as make staff up in the cloud or at another business.” members potentially vulnerable to crime when “We’re pretty digital now in the sense that we lights and alarm systems fail. have servers in the store and we have servers in the Nicholas Boulle, director of marketing and sales cloud,” says Jay Hartington, co-owner of Marissa —Jay Hartington, Marissa Collections at Dallas-based de Boulle, which opened a store in Collections in Naples, Fla. He says his pre-hurricane Houston in 2015 that was closed for about a week in protocol includes a final backup and shutdown of critthe aftermath of Hurricane Harvey, says security was a ical technology. “You power down all of your servers and concern, especially because local law enforcement personnel stuff before the storm hits so there won’t be a short.” were busy rescuing stranded residents. If property is damaged, or merchandise is damaged or stolen, “We stayed closed until we could get a security team on the premises,” Boulle having important information on hand means a store owner can start the ball says. “We always have at least one police officer in the store during store hours, rolling on filing insurance claims and getting a fire- or water-damaged facility and that was part of the equation. Looting is a worry, and that was definitely back in shape to serve customers. taken into consideration.” “They have to have that information to substantiate a claim,” Sexton says. Also good to have at the ready: contact information for contractors, cleanup companies, and landscapers who can start repairs as soon as possible. MAINTAIN AWARENESS Ultimately, staying abreast of current news is the most important step jewelers can take to protect themselves and their property, Bhindi says. KNOW HOW TO SECURE YOUR MERCHANDISE “When fires happen, people need to be aware of what’s happening around It can be nerve-racking for owners forced out by a mandatory evacuation to them,” he says. “Every jeweler should have the radio on.” The internet is also a spend days not knowing if or how badly their store was affected—and whether valuable resource: Google’s Crisis Map (google.org/crisismap/usa) offers valuable, their merchandise survived unscathed. up-to-date information about weather, fire, earthquake and similar hazards, and Retailers invest in safes or vaults to protect their merchandise. In fact, many inFacebook’s “safety check” feature lets people alert others that they are safe even if surance policies stipulate not only that jewelers use a safe or vault, but also the exact they have only fleeting cellular or internet connectivity. technical specifications that dictate how well it protects from fire, water, or theft. The other important thing to remember, Boulle says, is to heed weather Dan Schuyler, co-owner of Lily & Co. Jewelers in Sanibel Island, Fla., a barforecasts and warnings from local authorities. “The biggest takeaway [from the rier island vulnerable to both winds and storm surges caused by hurricanes, says devastation caused by Hurricane Harvey in Houston] was the fact that oftenhis insurance policy has detailed instructions for how to secure merchandise in times you hear about these things happening,” he says, “and for the most part, the event of a storm. “Everything must be bagged up and stored in the vault so people never think it’s going to be that bad.” it’s waterproof ” in the event of a hurricane, Schuyler says. “In 1997 the building
“The big issue with hurricanes is getting back online and getting your electricity and your water going.”
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FROM SKYPE SESSIONS TO STORYTELLING, GIVING YOUR BUSINESS A QUICK AND EASY REFRESH DOESNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T NEED TO FEEL DAUNTING B y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d
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OR RETAILERS LOOKING to survive and thrive in 2018, it pays to sweat the small stuff. Modern consumers enjoy more ways than ever to browse and buy jewelry—on social media and through apps and Google searches, to name just a few. But the spike in consumer entry points means today’s retailers need the dexterity of an octopus. After all, successful stores now exist on two planes—the physical and the virtual. So while your main entrance may be in order, your consumers are increasingly streaming in through the side doors. How to keep up with it all? We’re here to help, with 50 ways to improve your jewelry retail business. These straighttalking suggestions were culled directly and indirectly from retail and jewelry industry leaders, social media and advertising, and big thinkers in the realm of customer experience. Here’s hoping these tips help take your business to new heights in 2018.
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Window shopping at Sofia Kaman in Venice, Calif.
(FROM TOP) COURTESY SOFIA KAMAN FINE JEWELS; COURTESY OF TAPPER’S; HEATHER DONLAN
MERCHANDISING 1. Invest in eye-catching window displays year-round, not just during the holidays. Your windows are your invitation to shoppers. 2. Create an area in your store where customers can handle and testdrive product unassisted (think bracelet and ring bars). 3. Consider mixing super-popular vintage and estate pieces into your display of new jewelry. Top retailers—including Barneys New York and New York’s London Jewelers—do it already. 4. Rotate merchandise regularly to keep the store looking fresh for shoppers.
EVENTS
5. Try hosting non-jewelry events such as speed-dating nights and art receptions to introduce potential new customers to your store. 6. Create a consumer advisory council to meet twice a year to discuss product trends and customer experiences that appeal to them (spring for drinks and snacks!).
7. If you have a stand-alone store, join forces with neighboring retailers to create a splashy evening or weekend shopping event. 8. Collaborate with a local nonprofit on an in-store event that gives back to the community—for example, an animal adoption evening or a clothing or food drive. 9. Invite loyal customers to an evening of styling fun when they bring their own jewelry to mix and match with new pieces or to consult with your staff about a redesign.
STAFF AND TRAINING
10. Focus on product storytelling in your sales training. When your employees convey an item’s intrinsic value in an entertaining way, they won’t need to haggle. 11. Screen potential new staffers for talent and experience by quizzing them on sales scenarios during the interview.
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A 40th-anniversary fete at Tapper’s in Troy, Mich.
12. Identify your employees’ selling styles—jewelry industry sales trainer Shane Decker defines them as “serpentine,” “missile,” and “sneak”—and train to those styles. 13. Bolster staff morale by weeding out sales associates who aren’t team players (for example, sales hogs and gossips). 14. Invite top sales associates to attend trade shows such as JCK Las Vegas—the experience stokes enthusiasm for the jewelry business that they will take back to your store.
SERVICE
15. Create a comfortable waiting area for your shoppers’ companions, even if you have room for only two cushy chairs and a small rug.
Inside Marissa Collections in Naples, Fla.
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86 16. Offer shoppers a local craft beer—a drink you’d serve in your home—instead of Champagne. 17. Ask if you can charge customers’ phones. Or add a USB charging station to your space, as Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom have. 18. Buy a tablet or two expressly for clients’ kids to play with in the store. When children are happily occupied, their parents are more relaxed shoppers. 19. Offer Skype video sessions for clients to create custom pieces or send in repairs, with an online sign-up for Skype appointments.
A stylish (but still put-together) salesperson
20. Hold a weekly sales meeting, covering a revolving list of topics that includes product, sales, and gemological education. 21. Experiment with direct mail campaigns featuring clear calls to action and incentives (discounts/deals). 22. Modernize your store’s dress code by embracing business casual. Studies indicate that millennials don’t like their salespeople in suits. 23. Work with employees to personalize customer greetings, bypassing the generic “How are you doing today?” opener. 24. Discover—and then address—your sales team’s closing rate by adding a traffic counter to your door.
WEBSITE
25. Drive brick-and-mortar engagement by showcasing alluring products on your website marked as “in-store exclusives.” 26. Align your online and offline businesses by ensuring your website’s home page prominently displays your store’s address, phone number, and hours.
A Nordstrom ChargeItSpot
18
Kid-friendly tech toys
27. Redesign your e-commerce pages to feature large product images (show the pieces from multiple angles!) and minimal text. 28. Post your video content at night. A 2017 study by CoSchedule found that user engagement in video peaks at 9 p.m. 29. Verify your business on Google so it’s more searchable and will show up on Google Maps. 30. Add a rotating banner of suggested products, in the style of Sephora and Amazon, to your web product pages. 31. Offer free shipping and returns. You might have to hike your prices slightly, but these practices have become standard in contemporary retailing. 32. Host a photo contest—offering a covetable prize—on your website and social feeds to boost online engagement and drum up user-generated content. 33. Take a page from successful jewelry e-tailers and integrate an online tool that allows shoppers to personalize jewelry pieces, even if that customization is minimal.
SOCIAL MEDIA
34. Follow and study local and national style influencers on social media to stay on top of trends and in-demand styles. 35. Add social share buttons to your product pages so shoppers can save and share styles on their social feeds. 36. Cultivate a mix of product shots and faces from your store on Instagram; the social platform revealed recently that posts with faces garner 38 percent more user engagement. 37. Cut down on your “social work” by finding cool, relevant content to aggregate for your feeds on Feedly, which searches content based on keywords.
38. Brainstorm high-click social content by browsing Google Trends, which reveals what people are talking about online. 39. Tag local influencers on social media so they see what you’re posting and can potentially re-post to their feeds. 40. Establish a YouTube channel, with the goal of posting one video a week to start. 41. Partner with a popular influencer (think local!), trading product for sponsored posts; start slow and invest minimally. 42. Add excitement to your Instagram by inviting influencers to “take over” your feed for a week (review all content before it’s posted). 43. Focus on paid posts on Facebook, as organic reach on the platform has dwindled to nil. 44. Experiment with selling special items directly off Instagram. 45. Spotlight your staffers (and their stories) on your social feeds. Millennials and Gen Zers want to know who’s behind the businesses they patronize. 46. Add Instagram Stories to your social media to-do list. The tool lets you showcase behind-the-scenes moments for 24 hours.
DECOR
47. Do a New Year’s purge and cleaning of your store’s offices. Organization in any business starts from the top. 48. Replace antiseptic-smelling glass cleaner with a pleasantly (and not-too-strongly) scented natural one, and consider investing in a professional scent machine. 49. Look to Etsy and other marketplaces that feature bespoke products to find creative decor for the holidays—and year-round. 50. Beautify your space by assigning a staffer to buy flowers and create a pretty arrangement every week.
WOMEN: JULIEN L. BALMER/STOCKSY; CHILD: ROBERT D. BARNES/GETTY; CHARGING STATION: COURTESY OF CHARGEITSPOT
34
SALES
17
Influencer Katerina Perez, here at JCK Las Vegas 2017
A ST ORY T OL D CR E ATE S A DI A MON D S OL D. Every diamond has a story. Telling a compelling one is key to driving sales and creating happy customers. That’s why AGS Laboratories offers Only My Diamond ™, an engaging online tool that brings the unique characteristics of your diamond to life in a visual, easy-to-understand format. And now, Only My Diamond ™ gives your customer the ability to share their diamond’s story with family and friends using the new social sharing feature! Experience a revolution in selling. Go online for a demo—and for information on other valuable services, such as our diamond grading report for mounted goods. Contact support@agslab.com or call 877.FOR.0CUT (877.367.0288) to learn more.
www.agslab.com
2018 VOTING GUIDE JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
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CONTENTS 92 93 95 99 100 101 102 103 104 107
RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! VOTE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A LUXURY STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 Select the “best of the best” in jewelry design. Vote for your favorite piece within each product category, plus help determine the grand prize winner, which will be featured on the May 2018 cover of JCK magazine.
107 109 110
111 112 113 115 117 118 120 124 125
COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY DIAMOND JEWELRY COLORED STONE JEWELRY LAB-GROWN DIAMOND AND/OR GEMSTONE JEWELRY PEARL JEWELRY TANZANITE JEWELRY PLATINUM JEWELRY GOLD JEWELRY SILVER JEWELRY CONTEMPORARY METAL JEWELRY MIXED METAL JEWELRY FASHION/BRIDGE JEWELRY PERSONALIZED JEWELRY (BEADS, CHARMS, MESSAGING, INSPIRATIONAL) MEN’S JEWELRY BEST PRICE POINT BEST EARRING DESIGN BEST BRACELET DESIGN BEST RING DESIGN BEST NECKLACE DESIGN BEST BRIDAL DESIGN BEST STATEMENT PIECE INDEX
Voting is only open to jewelry store owners and employees. ON PAGE 89:
VOTE NOW THROUGH 02/23 AT JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
2017 Grand Prize Winner, Shy Creation
2018
VOTING GUIDE
Welcome to the 11th annual JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards Voting Guide! W
e are thrilled with the entries in this year’s design competition, and are excited to present some of the finest jewelry companies and designs in the industry. Every vote counts and voting for your favorites is easy: 1.
2. 3.
Review the 2018 Voting Guide on the following pages. Circle/note your favorites within each product category and price point. Log on to JewelersChoiceAwards.com and place your votes using this Voting Guide as a reference. Select your ultimate favorite. When finished voting, you’ll be taken to a page showcasing your votes. Please select your over all “favorite among favorites.” The piece with the most votes in this round will be honored as our grand prize winner and be featured on the May 2018 cover of JCK magazine.
All first-place winners will be featured in JCK magazine, and the first-, second-, and third-place winners will be showcased in our “Best of the Best” supplement to JCK in this May’s issue.
MARK SMELZER, PUBLISHER
Many companies have used their wins to promote their products in print, online, and at trade shows throughout the year. We’re delighted to provide them with this opportunity and to provide you, our readers, with hundreds of gorgeous and inspirational pieces to consider. Help us name “The Best of the Best” in jewelry design by placing your votes today!
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
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2018
VOTING GUIDE
COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY $10,000 & UNDER
Jye’s International Inc. • $2,450
Asher Jewelry • $1,495
Gabriel & Co. • $1,845
Lika Behar Collection • $3,080
Neon Gems Inc. • $10,000
Jye’s International Inc. • $18,920
Neon Gems Inc. • $60,000
Novel Collection • $190,000
Paula Crevoshay • $98,300
COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY OVER $10,000
Novel Collection • $520,000
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DIAMOND JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER Asher Jewelry • $1,195
Berco Jewelry Company • $1,800
Color Merchants / Brevani • $1,650
Gabriel & Co. • $1,750
H.K.Designs • $599
Maui Divers Jewelry • $2,195
Shy Creation • $2,480
DIAMOND JEWELRY $2,501 – $10,000
Asher Jewelry • $2,835
Alon Vivat • $6,500-$25,000
Amden Jewelry • $4,495 (center stone not included)
East Arts Jewelry Mfy. LTD • $4,500
El Dorado Jewelry Inc. • $9,500 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
93
2018
VOTING GUIDE
DIAMOND JEWELRY $2,501 – $10,000
Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd • $2,560
Gabriel & Co. • $8,020
L’amor Jewelry Inc • $8,800
Nelson Jewelry USA Inc. • $7,500
SU-RAJ INTER GOLD INC • $5,000
C.Krishniah Chetty & Sons • $17,215
Gabriel & Co. • $14,885
L’amor Jewelry Inc. • $13,300
L’amor Jewelry Inc • $14,400
DIAMOND JEWELRY OVER $10,000
Jye’s International Inc. • $36,500
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Neon Gems Inc. • $18,000
NORMAN SILVERMAN DIAMONDS • $225,000
QAYTEN • $18,500
COLORED STONE JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER Siera Jewelry Inc. • $105,030
Anye • $2,200
Anye • $875
Asher Jewelry • $1,295
Berco Jewelry Company • $695
BERND WOLF GmbH • $679
CIRCLE COMPANY (HONG KONG), LIMITED • $665
CIRCLE COMPANY (HONG KONG), LIMITED • $1,160
Costar Imports, Inc. • $2,100
Costar Imports, Inc. • $2,250
Costar Imports, Inc. • $1,350 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
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2018
VOTING GUIDE
COLORED STONE JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER Costar Imports, Inc. • $2,250
East Arts Jewelry Mfy. LTD • $1,699
El Dorado Jewelry Inc. • $2,480
Elisa Ilana Jewelry • $1,990
JC Blackburn Inc. • $1,750 (center stone not included)
Lika Behar Collection • $2,150
Liven Co. • $798
Parlé Jewelry Designs • $1,795
RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! Stuller, Inc. • $996
96
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM
COLORED STONE JEWELRY $2,501 – $10,000 Ande Jewelry • $3,125
Anderson Jewelers • $3,000
BELLARRI • $7,990
BELLARRI • $4,500
BELLARRI • $2,750
Beverley K • $4,389
DACORA JEWELERS • $9,500
Denny Wong Designs • $9,000
Huatai u-tech titanium jewelry co., ltd • $9,500
LALI Jewels • $9,990
Lika Behar Collection • $5,500
Noush jewelry • $9,800
Omi Privé • $10,000
Oro Alexander Inc. • $5,300 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
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2018
VOTING GUIDE
COLORED STONE JEWELRY $2,501 – $10,000 Parlé Jewelry Designs • $9,580
Yael Designs • $9,867
Phoenix Jewellers Inc. • $5,100
Yael Designs • $6,608
COLORED STONE JEWELRY OVER $10,000
Graziela • $52,000
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
BELLARRI • $11,750
C.Krishniah Chetty & Sons • $11,000
Lee Jewellery Co., Ltd • $50,000
Liberty Diamonds • $28,500
RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE!
YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM
Oscar Heyman • $240,000
Parlé Jewelry Designs • $10,990
philip zahm designs • $39,000
TAMARA COMOLLI Fine Jewelry GmbH • $56,000
Wendy Brandes Jewelry • $19,500
Yael Designs • $13,321
ALTR • $250,000
Chatham • $16,500
Chatham • $6,900
Lafonn • $290
LAB-GROWN DIAMOND AND/ OR GEMSTONE JEWELRY ALL PRICES
Chatham • $10,300
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
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2018
VOTING GUIDE
PEARL JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER
BERND WOLF GmbH • $599
Alamea Hawaii LLC • $2,350
Belle Étoile • $875
Gabriel & Co. • $350
SHR Jewelry Group • $169
Alamea Hawaii LLC • $4,500
Brenda Smith Jewelry • $10,000
Galatea: Jewelry by Artist • $3,500
Galatea: Jewelry by Artist • $2,875
PEARL JEWELRY OVER $2,500
Galatea: Jewelry by Artist • $9,500
100
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Jye’s International Inc. • $10,811
Lika Behar Collection • $2,640
TANZANITE JEWELRY $10,000 & UNDER Asher Jewelry • $2,500
East Arts Jewelry Mfy. LTD • $3,599
Beverley K • $1,859
Jye’s International Inc. • $7,600
TANZANITE JEWELRY OVER $10,000 C.Krishniah Chetty & Sons • $18,900
Mindham Fine Jewellery • $22,000
RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! Yael Designs • $20,175
YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
101
2018
VOTING GUIDE
PLATINUM JEWELRY $10,000 & UNDER
JC Blackburn Inc. • $2,050 (center stone not included)
Beverley K • $1,395 (center stone not included)
Gabriel & Co. • $7,500
Malo Creations • $9,999
Tasha R, LLC • $1,749 (center stone not included)
Gabriel & Co. • $10,400
Jörg Heinz GmbH & Co. KG • $19,000
Michael Schofield & Co. • $14,625
Neon Gems Inc. • $15,000
PLATINUM JEWELRY OVER $10,000
Jye’s International Inc. • $162,200
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Omi Privé • $76,000
philip zahm designs • $48,000
Schaffrath • $28,950
GOLD JEWELRY $2,500 & UNDER Yael Designs • $44,928
Alamea Hawaii LLC • $2,500
Gabriel & Co. • $2,045
Jye’s International Inc. • $2,460
Marika Desert-Gold • $1,700
Maui Divers Jewelry • $795
Shy Creation • $1,680
Stuller, Inc. • $879
RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM Timeless Treasure Jewelry • $850 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
103
2018
VOTING GUIDE
GOLD JEWELRY OVER $2,500 Beverley K • $9,889
Gabriel & Co. • $2,785
Lika Behar Collection • $5,830
Margisa • $3,450
Neon Gems Inc. • $5,000
QAYTEN • $9,400
SUNCHIN JEWELRY COMPANY • $12,500
Thyreos Vassiliki • $29,500
SILVER JEWELRY $500 & UNDER Vahan Jewelry • $23,750
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Alamea Hawaii LLC • $450
Belle Étoile • $450
BERND WOLF GmbH • $399
Brenda Smith Jewelry • $500
Ed Levin Jewelry Inc • $330
ELLE TIME & JEWELRY • $175
Frederic Duclos • $390
Gabriel & Co. • $275
MeditationRings • $299
Samuel B. Collection • $426
Alamea Hawaii LLC • $700
Andréa Candela • $900
Breuning • $612
Breuning • $876
SILVER JEWELRY $501 – $1,000
Belle Étoile • $595
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
105
2018
VOTING GUIDE
SILVER JEWELRY $501 – $1,000
Lika Behar Collection • $830
Frederic Duclos • $510
Gabriel & Co. • $600
Lilly Barrack Ltd • $699
PiYaRo by Aiya Designs • $999
Gabriel & Co. • $1,015
MAHENDI LlLC • $1,800
Rozaliya Jewelry • $ 3,500
Vahan Jewelry • $5,250
SILVER JEWELRY OVER $1,000
PiYaRo by Aiya Designs • $3,450
106
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
CONTEMPORARY METAL JEWELRY $500 & UNDER Frederick Goldman Inc. • $500
Thorsten • $400
Malo Creations • $249
Thorsten • $500
CONTEMPORARY METAL JEWELRY OVER $500 Gellner GmbH & Co. KG • $8,350
Lashbrook • $1,549
Lashbrook • $687
Maria Rzewuska Designerschmuck • $850
MIXED METAL JEWELRY $1,000 & UNDER Eva Stone • $350
Frederick Goldman Inc. • $925 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
107
2018
VOTING GUIDE
MIXED METAL JEWELRY $1,000 & UNDER
Lika Behar Collection • $310
Gabriel & Co. • $450
Lashbrook • $897
Maui Divers Jewelry • $775
Samuel B. Collection • $575
MIXED METAL JEWELRY OVER $1,000 Alamea Hawaii LLC • $1,800
Thorsten • $400
ALOR • $1,450
108
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Dana Bronfman • $6,125
Gabriel & Co. • $ 1,015
K.Mita Design LLC • $1,605
Lika Behar Collection • $1,760
Malo Creations • $1,499
philip zahm designs • $46,000
Stuller, Inc. • $1,587 (center stone not included)
Vahan Jewelry • $5,625
Belle Étoile • $450
ELLE TIME & JEWELRY • $495
ÉVOCATEUR • $398
Gabriel & Co. • $450
Lika Behar Collection • $320
Marahlago • $291
Maria Shireen • $45 - $75
FASHION/ BRIDGE JEWELRY $500 & UNDER
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
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2018
VOTING GUIDE
FASHION/ BRIDGE JEWELRY OVER $500
BERND WOLF GmbH • $799
7cs • $1,635
Belle Étoile • $575
Costar Imports, Inc. • $4,200
Gabriel & Co. • $1,135
PERSONALIZED JEWELRY
(BEADS, CHARMS, MESSAGING, INSPIRATIONAL) $500 & UNDER Berco Jewelry Company • $115
Lika Behar Collection • $790
Kindred Keepsake Jewelry • $300 $4,000
110
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Stuller, Inc. • $408 (center stone not included)
PERSONALIZED JEWELRY
(BEADS, CHARMS, MESSAGING, INSPIRATIONAL) OVER $500 Dorian & Rose • $2,250
Gabriel & Co. • $3,380
Gabriel & Co. • $700
Liven Co. • $798
MEN’S JEWELRY $1,000 & UNDER A.R.Z Steel • $140
Elisa Ilana Jewelry • $229
Italgem Steel • $159
Samuel B. Collection • $699
Thorsten • $400
Thorsten • $500
William Henry • $495 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
111
2018
VOTING GUIDE
MEN’S JEWELRY OVER $1,000 7cs • $1,500
Lashbrook • $5,080
Lashbrook • $3,110
Malo Creations • $2,499
Paragon • $3,800
Shy Creation • $2,300
William Henry • $1,950
BEST PRICE POINT $500 & UNDER Berco Jewelry Company • $365
112
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Elisa Ilana Jewelry • $399
Gabriel & Co • $440
Maui Divers Jewelry • $495
BEST PRICE POINT $501 – $1,000 Alamea Hawaii LLC • $550
Gabriel & Co. • $935
BEST EARRING DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER Alamea Hawaii LLC • $2,350
Tasha R, LLC • $749 (center stone not included)
Ed Levin Jewelry Inc • $300
Gabriel & Co. • $2,060
Kiseki • $1,800
RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! Shy Creation • $1,320
YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
113
2018
VOTING GUIDE
BEST EARRING DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000 Dallas Prince Designs • $9,950
Gabriel & Co. • $5,695
Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd • $5,380
Nelson Jewelry USA Inc. • $3,000
Oro Alexander Inc. • $4,550
Parlé Jewelry Designs • $6,195
Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. • $2,999
BEST EARRING DESIGN OVER $10,000 Bapalal Keshavlal • $43,820
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
C.Krishniah Chetty & Sons • $28,620
NORMAN SILVERMAN DIAMONDS • $90,000
Novel Collection • $247,000
Novel Collection • $180,000
Parlé Jewelry Designs • $10,500
Penny Preville • $10,595
SU-RAJ INTER GOLD INC • $12,000
Alamea Hawaii LLC • $650
Belle Étoile • $595
Ed Levin Jewelry Inc • $671
Gabriel & Co. • $1,905
Heart-Full Hands Jewelry • $90
Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd • $2,260
Shy Creation • $2,040
BEST BRACELET DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
115
2018
VOTING GUIDE
BEST BRACELET DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000
I.Reiss • $4,475
East Arts Jewelry Mfy. LTD • $6,799
Gabriel & Co. • $9,195
Shy Creation • $5,700
SU-RAJ INTER GOLD INC • $6,000
BEST BRACELET DESIGN OVER $10,000 Tasha R, LLC • $6,249
Bapalal Keshavla • $38,960
116
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
ART DIAMOND JEWELRY INC • $125,000
Gabriel & Co. • $11,485
Jye’s International Inc. • $17,600
BEST RING DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER Belle Étoile • $350
prince jewelers • $60,000
Brilliant Earth • $2,390
Color Merchants / Brevani • $1,650
Continental Jewellery (MFG) Ltd. • $1,500
Gabriel & Co.• $1,780
Korite • $1,375
Marika Desert-Gold • $1,100
Maui Divers Jewelry • $1,995
Oro Alexander Inc. • $2,250
Parlé Jewelry Designs • $1,545
CrownRing • $2,795
Gabriel & Co.• $3,860
BEST RING DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
117
2018
VOTING GUIDE
BEST RING DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000 I.Reiss • $2,875
Parlé Jewelry Designs • $4,500
BEST RING DESIGN OVER $10,000 Tasha R, LLC • $2,749
Dallas Prince Designs • $32,950
Ande Jewelry • $10,225
Mindham Fine Jewellery • $27,000
NORMAN SILVERMAN DIAMONDS •
Ande Jewelry • $1,642
Gabriel & Co. • $1,670
$162,000
BEST NECKLACE DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Parlé Jewelry Designs • $1,495
PiYaRo by Aiya Designs • $1,625
Shy Creation • $1,000
BEST NECKLACE DESIGN $2,501 – $10,000 Tasha R, LLC • $2,499
Gabriel & Co. • $5,455
Jye’s International Inc. • $4,055
NEETA GUPTA • $3,000
Parlé Jewelry Designs • $10,000
Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. • $3,599
Shy Creation • $2,900
ZEN DIAMOND • $4,890
A G GEMS Inc • $35,000
Continental Jewellery (MFG) Ltd. • $25,000
BEST NECKLACE DESIGN OVER $10,000
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
119
2018
VOTING GUIDE
BEST NECKLACE DESIGN OVER $10,000 Gabriel & Co. • $21,470
Neon Gems Inc. • $35,000
Jye’s International Inc. • $30,000
Parlé Jewelry Designs • $32,095
BEST BRIDAL DESIGN $2,500 & UNDER Berco Jewelry Company • $1,100 (center
Beverley K • $2,475 (center stone not included)
Continental Jewellery (MFG) Ltd. • $1,400
Finer Jewelry, Inc • $2,200
stone not included)
Brilliant Earth • $1,850 (center stone not
included)
120
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
(center stone not included)
Frederick Goldman Inc. • $1,225 (center
stone not included)
JEWELEX NY LTD • $1,749 (center stone not
Gabriel & Co. • $2,075 (center stone not included)
JC Blackburn Inc. • $1,450 (center stone not
included)
included)
included)
JEWELEX NY LTD • $1,999 (center stone not
Martin Flyer • $2,499
Martin Flyer • $1,999
Maui Divers Jewelry • $1,795
Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd • $2,390
Shy Creation • $1,960 (center stone not
Stuller, Inc. • $2,352 (center stone not included)
Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. • $1,999 (center
stone not included)
included)
(center stone not included)
RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! Tasha R, LLC • $1,879 (center stone not included)
YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
121
2018
VOTING GUIDE
BEST BRIDAL DESIGN $2,501 – $5,000 7cs • $2,700
Berco Jewelry Company • $3,400 (center
stone not included)
Brilliant Earth • $4,950
Continental Jewellery (MFG) Ltd. • $3,300
Frederick Goldman Inc. • $2,600 (center
Frederick Goldman Inc. • $3,295 (center
Gabriel & Co. • $3,375 (center stone not
JEWELEX NY LTD • $3,999
stone not included)
included)
stone not included)
BEST BRIDAL DESIGN $5,001 – $10,000 Shy Creation • $4,300 (center stone not included)
122
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Gabriel & Co. • $5,475 (center stone not included)
RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE!
Leo Schachter Diamonds • $6,999
YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM
Martin Flyer • $8,999
BEST BRIDAL DESIGN OVER $10,000 Christopher Designs • $16,483
CrownRing • $14,000
Cynthia Britt • $56,000
Neon Gems Inc. • $28,000
NORMAN SILVERMAN DIAMONDS • $665,000
Omi Privé • $49,750
Stuller, Inc. • $37,725
Wendy Brandes Jewelry • $28,000
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
123
2018
VOTING GUIDE
BEST STATEMENT PIECE $30,000 & UNDER Katherine LeGrand -Custom Goldsmith • $26,000
Kiseki • $10,000
BEST STATEMENT PIECE OVER $30,000 Mason-Kay Jade • $15,200
J. R. Dunn Jewelers • $450,000
Ambience INC • $190,000
Jye’s International Inc. • $35,550
Omi Privé • $200,000
RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! Parlé Jewelry Designs • $34,000
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YOU COULD WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM
INDEX 7cs ...........................................................................110, 112, 122 A G GEMS Inc..........................................................119 A.R.Z Steel ..............................................................111 Alamea Hawaii LLC................................................100, 103, 104, 105, 108, 113, 115 Alon Vivat ...............................................................93 ALOR .......................................................................108 ALTR ........................................................................99 Ambience INC ........................................................124 Amden Jewelry ......................................................93 Ande Jewelry .........................................................97, 118 Anderson Jewelers ................................................97 Andréa Candela .....................................................105 Anye ........................................................................95 ART DIAMOND JEWELRY INC ...............................116 Asher Jewelry ........................................................92, 93, 95, 101 Bapalal Keshavlal ..................................................114, 116 BELLARRI ................................................................97, 98 Belle Étoile .............................................................100, 105, 109, 110, 115, 117 Berco Jewelry Company .......................................93, 95, 110, 112, 120, 122 BERND WOLF GmbH ..............................................95, 100, 105, 110 Beverley K ..............................................................97, 101, 102, 104, 120 Brenda Smith Jewelry ...........................................100, 105 Breuning .................................................................105 Brilliant Earth .........................................................117, 120, 122 C.Krishniah Chetty & Sons ....................................94, 98, 101, 114 Chatham .................................................................99 Christopher Designs..............................................123 CIRCLE COMPANY (HONG KONG), LIMITED ........95 Color Merchants / Brevani ....................................93, 117 Continental Jewellery (MFG) Ltd..........................117, 119, 120, 122 Costar Imports, Inc. ...............................................95, 96, 110 CrownRing..............................................................117, 123 Cynthia Britt ...........................................................123 DACORA JEWELERS...............................................97 Dallas Prince Designs ...........................................114, 118 Dana Bronfman......................................................108 Denny Wong Designs ............................................97 Dorian & Rose ........................................................ 111 East Arts Jewelry Mfy. LTD....................................93, 96, 101, 116 Ed Levin Jewelry Inc ..............................................105, 113, 115 El Dorado Jewelry Inc. ..........................................93, 96 Elisa Ilana Jewelry .................................................96, 111, 112 ELLE TIME & JEWELRY ...........................................105, 109
Eva Stone................................................................107 ÉVOCATEUR ...........................................................109 Finer Jewelry, Inc ..................................................120 Frederic Duclos ......................................................105, 106 Frederick Goldman Inc. .........................................107, 121, 122 Gabriel & Co. ..........................................................92, 93, 94, 100, 102, 103, 104, 105, 106, 108, 109, 110, 111, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120, 121, 122 Galatea: Jewelry by Artist.....................................100 Gellner GmbH & Co. KG .........................................107 Graziela ..................................................................98 H.K.Designs............................................................93 Heart-Full Hands Jewelry .....................................115 Huatai u-tech titanium jewelry co., ltd ................97 I.Reiss .....................................................................116, 118 Italgem Steel ..........................................................111 J. R. Dunn Jewelers ...............................................124 JC Blackburn Inc. ...................................................96, 102, 121 JEWELEX NY LTD ...................................................121, 122 Jörg Heinz GmbH & Co. KG ...................................102 Jye’s International Inc...........................................92, 101, 102, 103, 116, 119, 120, 124 K.Mita Design LLC .................................................109 Katherine LeGrand -Custom Goldsmith...............124 Kindred Keepsake Jewelry ...................................110 Kiseki ......................................................................113, 124 Korite ......................................................................117 L’amor Jewelry Inc .................................................94 Lafonn .....................................................................99 LALI Jewels ............................................................97 Lashbrook...............................................................107, 108, 112 Lee Jewellery Co., Ltd ...........................................98 Leo Schachter Diamonds ......................................123 Liberty Diamonds ..................................................98 Lika Behar Collection ............................................92, 96, 97, 101, 104, 106, 108, 109, 110 Lilly Barrack Ltd .....................................................106 Liven Co. .................................................................96, 111 MAHENDI LlLC........................................................106 Malo Creations.......................................................102, 107, 109, 112 Marahlago ..............................................................109 Margisa ...................................................................104 Maria Rzewuska Designerschmuck .....................107 Maria Shireen.........................................................109 Marika Desert-Gold ...............................................103, 117 Martin Flyer ............................................................121, 123 Mason-Kay Jade ....................................................124 Maui Divers Jewelry ..............................................93, 103, 108, 113, 117, 121 MeditationRings ....................................................105 Michael Schofield & Co. ........................................102
Mindham Fine Jewellery.......................................101, 118 Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd .................................94, 114, 115, NEETA GUPTA......................................................... 119 Nelson Jewelry USA Inc. .......................................94, 114 Neon Gems Inc.......................................................92, 95, 102, 104, 120, 123 NORMAN SILVERMAN DIAMONDS .......................95, 115, 118, 123 Noush jewelry ........................................................97 Novel Collection.....................................................92, 115 Omi Privé ................................................................97, 103, 123, 124 Oro Alexander Inc. .................................................97, 114, 117 Oscar Heyman .......................................................99 Paragon ..................................................................112 Parlé Jewelry Designs ........................................... 96, 98, 99, 114, 115, 117, 118, 119, 120, 124 Paula Crevoshay ....................................................92 Penny Preville ........................................................115 Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. ......................................114, 119, 121 philip zahm designs ..............................................99, 103, 109 Phoenix Jewellers Inc. ..........................................98 PiYaRo by Aiya Designs ........................................106, 119 prince jewelers ......................................................117 QAYTEN ..................................................................95, 104 Rozaliya Jewelry ....................................................106 Samuel B. Collection .............................................105, 108, 111 Schaffrath ...............................................................103 SHR Jewelry Group ...............................................100 Shy Creation...........................................................93, 103, 112, 113, 115, 116, 119, 121, 122 Siera Jewelry Inc. ..................................................95 Stuller, Inc. .............................................................96, 103, 109, 110, 121, 123 SU-RAJ INTER GOLD INC.......................................94, 115, 116 SUNCHIN JEWELRY COMPANY ............................104 TAMARA COMOLLI Fine Jewelry GmbH ..............99 Tasha R, LLC ...........................................................102, 113, 116, 118, 119, 121 Thorsten .................................................................107, 108, 111 Thyreos Vassiliki ....................................................104 Timeless Treasure Jewelry ...................................103 Vahan Jewelry .......................................................104, 106, 109 Wendy Brandes Jewelry .......................................99, 123 William Henry ........................................................111, 112 Yael Designs ...........................................................98, 99, 101, 103 ZEN DIAMOND .......................................................119
This company index is published as a convenience and not as part of the Jewelers’ Choice Awards Contract. Every care has been taken to index companies correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page numbers, or failure to insert of include information. JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
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RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! VOTE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK LAS VEGAS 2018 Select the “best of the best” in jewelry design. Vote for your favorite piece within each product category, plus help determine the grand prize winner, which will be featured on the May 2018 cover of JCK magazine. Voting is only open to jewelry store owners and employees.
VOTE NOW AT JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM 126
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Now through February 23rd
JANUARY 20–22, 2018 DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOTEL MIAMI AIRPORT & CONVENTION CENTER
The JIS Januar y Show is the 2nd largest JIS show of the year and one of the largest jewelr y trade shows in the Americas immediately following
the holiday season. The Show is ideal ly timed for restocking and reconnecting with vendors af ter the holidays and to explore the newest Spring trends. Featuring a diverse product selection from hundreds of exhibitors, an easy to shop floor plan, and the JIS Matchmaking
Program, it is an event your store can’t miss.
REGISTER TODAY AT:
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J U N E 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4 , 2 01 8 F R I DAY T H R O U G H M O N DAY MANDALAY BAY RESORT + CASINO | LAS VEGAS, NV When the industry called for a jewelry trade event that was dedicated to immediate at-show delivery
during Las Vegas Jewelry Week, JIS heard its calling. Jewelers International Showcase (JIS) was the atshow delivery pioneer more than four decades ago, and continues to be the leader of this business. With its history and knowledge of the transactional channel, JIS was the perfect brand to start a show the industry so desperately wanted.
GET THE MOST UP TO DATE SHOW INFORMATION AT:
JISSHOW.COM/EXCHANGE
S T AY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S E X C H A N G E
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THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE
THE VAULT
FEATHER WEIGHTS The 22k yellow gold ring features
PHEASANT THOUGHTS The piece was made at the Gem Palace
15.45 cts. t.w. diamonds, 24 cts. t.w. rubies, 1 ct. t.w. sapphires, and 0.3 ct. t.w. emeralds. Shalini says that it’s “quintessentially a wedding set element—but I could see it being worn to a cocktail party by one of my South American clients.”
workshop in Jaipur, and Shalini recalls that the biggest challenge in its creation was “balancing the weight across all the elements. The structure had to be perfected several times. It had to be truly wearable.”
FANTASTIC BEAST
RARE BIRD The fabrication process began
PEACOCKS ARE A signature motif for Sanjay Kasliwal, the Jaipur, India–based jewelry firm named for its founder, an eighth-generation member of the family behind the city’s venerated Gem Palace. Shalini Kasliwal, Sanjay’s daughter and the firm’s North American president, helmed the creation of this particular peacock after falling hard for “the intricate structure of it,” she says. The ring is actually a slightly updated reproduction of one of Sanjay’s earliest designs, with its motif and lines “rooted in traditional Mughal Empire style.” —EMILI VESILIND JCKONLINE.COM
with Sanjay making a sketch of his old design with a brand-new gem pattern—his daughter’s idea. At one point, he was tempted to keep the ring all gold. “But we are so fond of colored stones,” she says—and voilà, insta-dazzle!
THE VAULT
GOLD Large oval-link open 17-inch chain in 18k gold; $1,320; Delphine Leymarie; sales@ delphineleymarie.com; delphineleymarie.com
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A CALL TO CHARMS
Boheme Mini Unicorn Horn charm in 18k gold; $275
Charm bracelets will always have a place in collectors’ hearts (and jewelry boxes), but don’t overlook the more wearable—and, frankly, more easily changeable—charm necklace. At a recent press preview, we were completely, well, charmed by Delphine Leymarie’s very collectible and affordable ($275–$795 retail) gold, gemstone, and enamel danglers. The 10 pieces—in her signature recycled 18k gold—slide easily onto a gold or oxidized silver clicker ring, which in turn latches onto one of Leymarie’s beaded or metal chains. (You can even clasp them onto an ear wire or hoop earring; see the designer’s cool Instagram demos at @delphinejewelry.) Leymarie is planning diamond updates for a couple of charms, plus “a larger moon, cactuses, a heartbeat, and more gem clusters,” she says. “And a few others to surprise you with!”
Facette Opal Skull charm in 18k gold; $640
Boheme Blue Crescent Moon charm with boulder opal, lapis lazuli, turquoise, and diamonds in 18k gold; $615
Boheme Clicker Charm Ring in 18k gold; $359
—MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
HOT STOCK TIP
LOVE-GO-ROUND
“The most important thing is to feel loved, especially for those going through difficult times,” says Jennifer Lau, founder of New York City–based jewelry brand Genevieve Lau. So with every purchase of a necklace from her Loved charm necklace collection, Lau donates another necklace to a woman with cancer. At press time, around 280 necklaces had been donated. Says Lau: “We’ve created a Loved movement!” —EMILI VESILIND 14k rose gold necklaces with pink sapphires and diamonds; $2,800–$3,200; genevievelau.com
JCKONLINE.COM
22K MAGIC IN THE AIR! (LOOK OUT!) SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE.
THE VAULT
BRIDAL
34Ă&#x2DC;24
0/34).' 4/$Ă&#x2DC;9 CANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T-MISS COLLECTION
LOVE ITALIAN STYLE To celebrate its 50th anniversary, Italian fine jewelry firm Picchiotti has debuted an opulent new wedding jewelry rangeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;featuring engagement rings, wedding bands, and jewelry intended for the day of the celebrationâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;that epitomizes classic Italian style, in all its gemmy glory. This is a collection for your more-is-more clients: Its ultraglamorous styles include a round-cut diamond ring set with contrasting lines of black onyx, and a bypass ring wreathed in baguette-cut white diamonds and topped by two yellow diamonds chiseled into hearts. Many of the styles make use of the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Xpandable technology, whichâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;through not-insignificant feats of jewelry engineeringâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;allows rings to expand up to two sizes. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;EMILI VESILIND
18k white gold earrings with 11.68 cts. t.w. diamonds; $74,600
18k white gold ring with 7.11 ct. heartshape Burmese ruby; $189,750
18k white gold Xpandable band with 14.19 cts. t.w. diamonds; $91,700Â
Platinum ring with 5.26 ct. cushion-cut diamond surrounded by 4.94 cts. t.w. diamonds; $434,050; Picchiotti; info@picchiotti.it; 855-570-9900; picchiotti.it
JORDAN ALEXANDERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEW BRIDAL LINE! SEE jckonline.com/topics/bridal FOR THAT AND MORE.
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CHEER PERFECTION Alternative engagement ring designs with colored center stones have long been the forte of Maniamania, a millennial-friendly fine jewelry collection based in Sydney and New York City. The brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest engagement ring design, Beloved, retains the atelierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature edge but also features a handful of feminine-feeling hallmarks borrowed from antique rings, including a sharply tiered shank and a rose-cut center stone that sits extra-highâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;like a sparkling cherry on top. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;EV
#OPY AND 0ASTE #ONTENT Ă&#x2DC;VAILABLE )NSTAGRAM &ACEBOOK 'RAPHICS #APTION ,IFESTYLE 3HOTS 7EBSITE %MAIL "ANNERS
Beloved ring in 14k yellow gold with 6 mm round rose-cut champagne diamond surrounded by white diamonds; $7,200; themaniamania.com
JCKONLINE.COM 3ALES/NE ,,# #
THE VAULT
SILVER SIL Sterling silver Legends Naga long drop earrings with black sapphire and black spinel; $795
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WAY OF THE DRAGON The mythical Balinese dragon Naga has been the inspiration for John Hardy’s collection of dragon-motif pieces—also called Naga—for eons. But the scaly beauty, as imagined by the brand, has undergone an elegant update at the hands of Hollie Bonneville Barden, the company’s first-ever female creative director. The designer was inspired to tweak the creature’s features after poring over ancient Balinese drawings of the dragon: “Balinese folklore depicts Naga as an embodiment of different natural spirits—the earth, the ocean, and the sky,” she notes. Hence, Barden’s debut line (which is priced from $295 to $23,000) renders the reptile in softer, more feminine-feeling curves, gleaming with accents of sapphire and spinel. —EMILI VESILIND
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Sterling silver Naga two-finger ring with black sapphire and black spinel; $695
Sterling silver Naga kick cuff with black sapphire and black spinel; $1,795; John Hardy; 888-838-3022; johnhardy.com
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CATCH THE WAVE Coca-Cola has promoted countless slogans over the past century and while 1957’s “Sign of Good Taste” may not be the most memorable, it’s an apt plug for Persona’s new licensed collection of sterling silver– and–CZ Coca-Cola by Persona jewelry, unveiled at JCK Las Vegas. Composed of necklaces, rings, and 18 unique charms— including the classic polar bear style seen here—the line arrived just in time for the holidays. Think of it as the taste that endures. —VICTORIA GOMELSKY
Polar bear charm and Coca-Cola earrings, both in sterling silver with CZ and enamel; $55–$65; personaworld.com
UMA K’S ENLIGHTENED COLLECTION! SEE jckonline.com/topics/silver FOR THAT AND MORE.
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INSTAGRAM.COM/JCKMAGAZINE
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THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS
SHOW BIZ Gem week—it’s the most colorful time of the year! The AGTA GemFair runs Jan. 30–Feb. 4 at the Tucson Convention Center; don’t miss these exhibitors (or the free shuttles from the JCK Tucson show!).
JUST DESERT
1/ Ring in platinum with 4.51 ct. sapphire and 2.18 cts. t.w. diamonds; $75,600; Jye’s International; 415-621-8880; jyescorp.com
From Jan. 31 to Feb. 3, JCK Tucson offers something the other gem shows don’t: designer jewelry
M
Chromanteq geode, spinel, and peridot earrings in recycled 18k yellow gold with nanoceramic; £9,360 ($12,550); The Rock Hound; susi@ therockhound.com; therockhound.com
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
OST JEWELERS ARRIVE in Tucson in early February expecting to shop for loose stones, mineral specimens, and other quirky finds from the wide world of gems. The selection at JCK Tucson, however, challenges those expectations. The show, which runs Jan. 31–Feb. 3 at the JW Marriott Tucson Starr Pass Resort & Spa, specializes in finished jewelry from the industry’s most respected designers, including Alishan, Adel Chefridi, Alex Šepkus, Elizabeth Garvin, and Suzy Landa, as well as vendors fresh on the scene, such as London-based The Rock Hound and goldsmith Baiyang Qiu. “The DNA of JCK Tucson is so unique and distinct from the other JCK properties— LUXURY and JCK Las Vegas—and it’s really different from the other Arizona shows,” says Katie Dominesey, industry vice president at JCK Events, the show organizer. “It’s a very relaxed environment, upscale but not stuffy, and we crafted it based on what retailers wanted.” The show opens each morning with a retailer roundtable event designed to allow participants—
many of whom represent retail stores that carry fashion and accessories in addition to fine jewelry—“to share in an honest space and really learn from one another,” Dominesey says. The intimate, convivial atmosphere extends to lunch on the patio, where attendees will have an opportunity to network, and culminates on the evening of Thursday, Feb. 1, at “Gems After Dark,” a networking party cohosted by GenNext Jewelers and the Women’s Jewelry Association. All of the buying and socializing takes place against the backdrop of the Starr Pass resort, a AAA Four Diamond property tucked amid the hills bordering Saguaro National Park. The lush high-desert environment lends the show its casual yet refined vibe, which organizers build upon with events steeped in the same laid-back spirit. “We’ll have a bar in each ballroom and tea tasting like we had at last year’s LUXURY,” Dominesey adds. “The show is designed to be more sensory, experiential, and a really fun environment.” JCKONLINE.COM
2/ Blue sapphire earrings with 1.19 cts. t.w. diamonds and black Tahitian pearls in 18k white gold; $9,350; Mastoloni; 800-347-3275; mastoloni.com 3/ 18k gold ring with 2.57 cts. t.w. diamonds and 3.72 ct. Colombian emerald; $24,000; Michael John Jewelry; 800-404-8633; michaeljohnjewelry.com 4/ Platinum earrings with 13.6 cts. t.w. pear-shape Colombian emeralds, 0.62 ct. t.w. pearshape diamonds, and 0.92 ct. t.w. round diamonds; price on request; Omi Privé; 877-664-4367; omiprive.com 5/ 14k yellow gold earrings with aquamarine, diamond, blue zircon, and sapphire; $1,353; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com
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J W M A R R I O T T T U C S O N S TA R R P A S S R E S O R T & S P A
J C K T U C S O N I S A C U R AT E D D E S T I N AT I O N O F F I N I S H E D J E W E L R Y, T E C H N O LO G Y A N D LO O S E GEMSTONES FROM THE FINEST VENDORS AND SUPPLIERS. SURROUNDED BY PICTURESQUE N AT U R A L B E A U T Y, T H I S I S T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y ’ S I N T I M AT E W I N T E R O A S I S O F F E R I N G A RELAXING YET PRODUCTIVE, EXPERIENTIAL ENVIRONMENT FOR BUSINESS AND NETWORKING. OPEN TO ALL QUALIFIED JEWELRY PROFESSIONALS.
R E G I ST R AT I O N I S N OW O P E N ! F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N , V I S I T : J C K O N L I N E .C O M /T U C S O N I NT E R E ST E D I N E X H I B I T I N G ? C O NTA C T A L E X A N D R A W U R ST E R AT AW U R ST E R � R E E DJ E W E L RYG R O U P.C O M
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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY
TOOL TIME “If YouTube is the only thing you’re doing, it will not move the needle.” —BEN SMITHEE, THE SMITHEE GROUP
THE LONG GAME
VIDEO SCORE
Y
KATARZYNA BIALASIEWICZ/ISTOCK/GETTY
Should your business be marketing on YouTube? You bet! BY EMILI VESILIND
OUTUBE ANNOUNCED IN September that it reached more than 1.5 billion monthly active users— meaning that it now has the second-largest audience in the world, just behind Facebook. More than 90 percent of U.S. teens, and just over 80 percent of U.S. millennials, are regular YouTube users, according to the company, with each group on average spending 40 minutes a day watching videos on the platform. Considering its massive audience of youngsters, it’s a wonder more jewelry businesses (beyond megabrands such as Cartier and Rolex) haven’t embraced YouTube as a repository for compelling content marketing. After all, “YouTube has two really big things going for it,” says Ben Smithee, CEO of The Smithee Group in New York City, which counts several jewelry companies among its clients.
“It has a huge user base, and it’s owned by Google”—meaning the site is highly ranked in search results. But what you get from YouTube is largely dependent on what you put into it—in sweat equity. “It’s still just a channel, and building a following on any channel takes time and consistent posting,” Smithee notes. Here are a few things to consider when dreaming up your first (or next) great YouTube campaign.
GOOD TIMING More than a few technology pundits have predicted that YouTube will replace TV and streaming services such as Netflix entirely in the next decade. More than 300 hours of video are uploaded every hour to YouTube, feeding the ongoing demand for fresh content consumed by, well, billions. It’s where your future engagement ring buyers are lingering, which makes now the ideal time to establish and grow your company’s channel.
JCKONLINE.COM
Success on YouTube, or any platform, isn’t overnight. “If you’re not willing to put 100 videos up before you get any traction, it’s not going to do anything for you,” Smithee says. “You have to earn your way on this.” And creating video content should be part of a larger content strategy that includes Facebook, Instagram, and a company website at minimum. “If YouTube is the only thing you’re doing, it will not move the needle,” explains Smithee, who adds that a good content strategy includes the crossover of content between marketing platforms.
ON TARGET Asking your clients what they want to see may be the easiest way to start brainstorming original videos for YouTube. But Rochester, Mich.–based marketing firm Brand Labs subscribes to a mathlike formula when advising clients on what to create for the platform. The sweet spot for content types, according to Brand Labs, lives in the intersection of these two questions: “What does my brand stand for?” and “What does my audience care about?” Smithee advises his clients to shoot simple, unfussy videos with an iPhone. “The videos that show you sitting at your desk talking about what you really know and love,” he adds, “are going to be 100 percent more effective than the video in your head that’s never designed, never produced, and never shot.”
TOOL TIME
THE GOODS RETAILERS, WE NEED YOUR VOTE! VOTE FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A LUXURY HOTEL STAY DURING JCK VEGAS 2018 Select the “best of the best” in jewelry design. Vote for your favorite piece within each product category, plus help determine the grand prize winner, which will be featured on the May 2018 cover of JCK magazine. Voting is only open to jewelry store owners and employees.
Vote now through February 23rd VOTE NOW AT JEWELERSCHOICEAWARDS.COM
What we liked: The F-80 Motion’s prestige branding, solid build (including a Swiss-made MOMT285-1 movement), and fantastic design, which fuses the industrial with the sculptural, are the superstars here. You can definitely buy a quality fitness tracker for less—but probably not one with this much panache.
WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO F-80 MOTION Italian designer brand Salvatore Ferragamo’s latest riff on its popular analog F-80 watch, the F-80 Motion, is a connected hybrid that looks and feels like a luxury analog timepiece. The watch boasts an elegant, traditionally masculine–feeling design and a basic but solid menu of functions, including a fitness tracker that counts steps and other fitness activities and comprehensive sleep monitoring. All that user data gets crunched in the smartwatch’s companion app, which plays nicely with both Apple and Android phones. —EV
What we didn’t like: We wish the watch paired with a branded, proprietary app that matched the slickness and style of the F-80 Motion. Instead, the device connects to the visually underwhelming MMT-365 app, which also services a spate of other Swiss smartwatches. Best feature: You don’t have to wear the watch (which is sizable) overnight to monitor your sleep patterns and/or disruptions. Its snooze sensors are nuanced enough to track body movements from underneath your pillow. ($1,395; ferragamo.com)
APP CHAT
ENLIGHT PHOTOFOX There are countless photo editing apps on the market, all touting cool tools to help you create high-quality imagery for your social feeds. But few are as full-featured as the latest version of Enlight Photofox. The nifty app, which was a 2017 Apple Design Award winner, essentially puts a streamlined, easy-to-use version of Photoshop on your phone, and therefore at your fingertips. Create artistic photo mash-ups and collages using transparent layers, double exposures, and effects such as blur, selective coloring, and dispersion (which makes a subject look like it’s partially disintegrating, science fiction–style). Plus: Mastering each and every Enlight tool is easy enough, thanks to the scads of how-to videos dedicated to the app on YouTube. ($3.99, App Store; photofoxapp.com) —EV
MICHELE’S SMARTWATCH FOR WOMEN! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.
JCKONLINE.COM
PRODUCT
SHOWCASE
137
Hoover & Strong
SWJ/Southwest Jewel
Hoover & Strong has a brand-new band catalog! Ask for yours today. We offer competitive pricing on hundreds of die-struck bands, including classic, fancy, two-tone, multi-tone, and diamond styles. All made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals.
SWJ is a family-owned, full-service Swiss watch wholesale company serving the trade for 38 years. We offer over 20 Swiss brands, specializing in pre-owned Rolex. We also offer diamond accessories and dial refinishing for the Rolex, with all work completed by our master watchmakers. Watches have a two-year warranty.
10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com
3500 Bluebonnet Circle Fort Worth, TX 76109 Tel: 214-522-8300/800-797-9477 Email: swjswiss@sbcglobal.net Website: southwestjewel.com
Artistry, Ltd. Phillip Gavriel
2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: phillip@royalchain.com Website: phillipgavriel.com For Royal Chain’s 40th anniversary, Phillip Gavriel introduces his best-selling Popcorn collection for the first time in gold. Each piece is handcrafted in Italy and features diamonds and natural gemstones.
RDI Diamonds Inc.
2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com The Ariel Diamonds® beautifully enhanced diamond line is the best option for you and your customers. This program gives you the ability to offer a bigger diamond... even when the budget just isn’t enough.
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8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: info@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com Artistry’s Moonlight collection in 14k white gold with 0.03 ct. t.w. diamonds features rose quartz, blue topaz, or white quartz over mother-of-pearl. MSRP: $435–$585, including 18-inch chain. Matching earrings and rings also available.
Allison-Kaufman Co.
7640 Haskell Ave. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Tel: 818-373-5100/800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150 Email: info@allisonkaufman.com Website: allisonkaufman.com 14k white gold, sapphires, and diamonds, no matter the shape, are always perfect together. Check out the new Sapphire and Diamonds collection from Allison-Kaufman.
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TraxSALES
JYE Luxury Collection
TraxSales.com has been providing retail sales force automation and customer relationship management for 21 years. Learn your accurate closing ratios and liberate your sales team to be the best they can be. Happy salespeople = happy customers! Call 713-466-7177.
JYE’s stones are meticulously selected before the design process begins. Taking their character and nature into account, our artists form a design around the stones, ensuring each piece performs at its best and brightest.
6830 N. Eldridge Parkway, Suite 302 Houston, TX 77041 Tel: 888-534-1253/713-466-7177 Email: sales@traxsales.com Website: traxsales.com
101 Utah St., Suite 101 San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-621-8880/866-633-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com
Ed Levin Jewelry Costar Imports, Inc.
Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: Info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com Style R12611B, 0.75 ct. t.w. MSRP: $4,200
Gabriel & Co.
545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: mjgonzalez@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Transitioning effortlessly from day to night, our elegantly simple Demure bracelets are essential in any wardrobe. Their secure fit offers maximum comfort, while their flexibility makes them a cinch to put on and take off. Worn alone or paired with other bracelets, they’re pieces you’ll reach for every day.
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52 West Main St. Cambridge, NY 12816 Tel: 518-677-8595 Fax: 518-677-8597 Email: info@edlevinjewelry.com Website: www.edlevinjewelry.com Soft curves are inspired by deep sleep on a comfy bed. A hidden message, “Dream,” displays when bracelet swings open to put on. Hand forged in the USA in sterling silver.
Martin Flyer
70 W. 36th St. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 800-223-0330 Fax: 212-768-0124 Email: sales@martinflyer.com Website: martinflyer.com “The Quality You Expect, the Personal Service You Deserve.” Since 1945, this belief has remained our cornerstone through three generations of outstanding service, craftsmanship, and delivery of heirloom-quality jewelry at competitive prices.
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ESCAPE
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Arch Crown Inc.
6540 Alliance Dr., Suite 120 Rockwall, TX 75032 Tel: 469-646-9990 Email: contact@escapewatches.com Website: escapewatches.com
460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: orders@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com
ESCAPE offers a full men’s and ladies’ fashion price point watch collection, with stainless steel base and Japanese quartz movements. Elevated features include intricate layered dials, mixed materials, and genuine leather straps. MSRP: $125–$295
New! Tag your holiday merchandise with Arch Crown Poly-Lam Thermal Transfer Computer Tags. Poly-Lam material has superior print durability and can withstand ultrasonic cleaning; text and bar code will not rub off. Clear-Tail tags in gold, silver, and white.
Ovadia Corp. www.effyjewelry.com #effyjewelry
101 E. Main St. Little Falls, NJ 07424 Tel: 973-256-9200 Email: sales@ovadia.com Website: ovadia.com
A showstopping celebration of brilliant scarlet: EFFY’s genuine ruby collection—Ruby Royale—boasts a selection of 14k gold styles, including this handcrafted, dazzling ring, adorned with marquise cut rubies and glittering diamonds.
Ovadia’s Discovery trays offer elegant, durable jewelry presentation for travel, retail, and understock. Interchangeable Oro-Lite pads offer unlimited display options. Trays are stackable and can have custom signage and be covered in fabric, genuine wood veneer, and more.
EFFY
Christopher Designs
50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@crisscut.com Website: christopherdesigns.com Christopher Designs impeccably blends Old World luxury and style with modern technology to create exclusive designs that include our patented Crisscut® and L’Amour Crisscut diamonds. When placed side by side with our competition, the difference is truly clear.
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Shy Creation
650 S. Hill St., Suite 428 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Kate collection diamond and gold stackable bangles from Shy Creation are ideal for layering and creating any combo for the perfect stack. Visit us at The Centurion Jewelry Show to view the entire collection! Centurion Suite 122
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Midas Chain
50 McDermott Place Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 877-643-2765 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com Diamond Bezel Heart by Midas Chain. This beautiful 14k yellow gold heart comes with an adjustable chain for ultimate versatility, which your customers will love. Designed with a diamond accent to accentuate the styling. MSRP: $393
Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group
24 Jewelers Park Dr. Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com Businesses like yours have trusted Jewelers Mutual for support since 1913. Contact us to learn how we can help you become safer, more secure, and more successful.
JWL.com Inc.
23024 Conde Drive Valencia, CA 91354 Tel: 310-922-4757 Fax: 310-922-4757 Email: larry@accountec.com Website: jwl.com We are the jewelry industry’s future digital currency, providing safe, secure, and easy global payment processing. Visit our website to receive free 250 digital coins.
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Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com
Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.
Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc.
10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.
Stuller Inc.
302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Stuller’s all-inclusive bridal program, ever&ever, allows you various ways to display the collection in your store, plus a full suite of marketing materials, and an interactive web experience to get your customers engaged and buying. Learn more at stuller.com/everandever.
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Le Vian®
Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Discover Le Vian Denim™ blues, the 2018 Fall Color of the Year, including this 14k Strawberry Gold® ring centered with a 3 ct. Deep Sea Blue Topaz™ encircled in Vanilla Diamonds® with Chocolate Diamonds® accents.
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americas Gold americas Diamonds
650 S. Hill St., Suite 224 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-688-4904 Fax: 213-688-1504 Email: info@americasgold.com Website: americasgold.com One of the most popular and best-selling in men’s jewelry. 14k yellow gold Miami Cuban link necklace with 5.50 cts. t.w. diamonds.
Ashi Diamonds
18 E. 48th St., 14th Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-319-8291 Fax: 212-319-4341 Email: kalyani@ashidiamonds.com Website: ashidiamonds.com ASHI Diamonds is thrilled to announce the launch of the 2017 Holiday Wish Book. This year, ASHI has included exclusive jewelry from its Couture line and the newest additions from its Lovebright and I DO Bridal collections, as well as the hottest and latest trends in fashion jewelry. For more info, call 800-622-2744 or visit ashidiamonds.com.
Thorsten Jewelry
404 E. First, Suite 1204 Long Beach, CA 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings.com Website: thorstenrings.com Same day shipping. Unmatched pricing. Free lifetime warranty. Hundreds of styles in stock.
RDI Diamonds Inc.
2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again! You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100 percent Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.
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ADVERTISING
INDEX
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AGS Laboratories pg. 87 Website: agslab.com A.R.Z. Steel pg. 24 Website: arzsteel.com Email: info@arzsteel.com Phone: 514-489-8668 Fax: 514-489-6929 Alex Velvet pg. 32 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Allison Kaufman Company pg. 40 Website: allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908 Artistry Ltd. pg. 20 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Atlanta Jewelry Show pg. 128A-128AF (regional insert) Website: atlantajewelryshow.com Email: info@atlantajewelryshow.com Toll-Free: 800-241-0399 Christopher Designs pg. 25 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970 Costar Imports pg. 45 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR E.L. Designs pg. 51 Website: edlevinjewelry.com Email: info@edlevinjewelry.com Phone: 518-677-8595 Toll-Free: 800-828-1122 Fax: 518-677-8597 Toll-Free Fax: 888-677-8597 Effy pg. 27 Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Escape pg. 43 Website: escapewatches.com Email: contact@escapewatches.com Phone: 469-646-9990 Gabriel & Co. pg. 48 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2018
Gdansk International Fair Co. pg. 39 Website: amberif.pl Email: amberif@mtgsa.com.pl Phone: +48 58 554 91 34
Martin Flyer pg. 15 Website: martinflyer.com Email: info@martinflyer.com Phone: 212-840-8899
Salesone LLC pg. 131 Website: salesone.org Email: sales@salesone.org Toll-Free: 866-507-2537
GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250
MDJ Advantage pg. 35 Website: mdjadvantage.com Email: Dm@mdjadvantage.com Toll-Free: 888-500-4311 Toll-Free Fax: 877-487-2104
Shy Creation Inc. pg. 17 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749
Hong Kong Trade Development Council pg. 88 Website: hktdc.com Email: hkjewelry.visitor@hktdc.org
Midas pg. 11 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765
Hoover & Strong pg. 55 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997
Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 31 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327
JCK Events pg. 37, 134 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers’ Mutual Insurance pg. 4-5 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 127, 128 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 JWL pg. 21 Website: JWL.com Email: info@jwl.com Phone: 866-545-9871
Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 9 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Rand & Paseka pg. 22 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. Back Cover Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960
Stuller Inc. pg. 60 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Thai Trade Center pg. 36 Website: bkkgems.com Email: bkkgems@ditp.go.th Thorsten Jewelry pg. 33 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com TraxSALES.com pg. 28 Email: Dave@TraxSALES.com Phone: 713-466-7177 Toll-Free: 888-534-1253 Fax: 713-466-7392 Umicore pg. 44 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 Wilkerson pg. 23 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333
Jye’s International pg. 53 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880 Kim International pg. 19 Website: kimint.com Email: sales@kimint.com Toll-Free: 800-275-5555 Kimberly Collins Colored Gems pg. 26 Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com Email: kim@kimberlycollinsgems.com Phone: 512-661-8778 Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN
Copyright ©2018 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 149 No. 1 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/ October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.
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CLASSIFIEDS SERVICES TO TRADE
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Paradox Fine Watch Company, the authorized distributor of G-Shock, Alfred Sung Timepieces and Garmin Smart Watches is expanding its sales force. For more than 40 years, Paradox has been distributing leading brands of timepieces. Our growth continues with our industry leading family of cutting edge, in-demand watch brands. We are seeking dynamic Independent Sales Reps to continue our growth. Watch industry, jewelry or giftware experience is required for reps. 1RQ FRQĂ LFWLQJ OLQHV 2.
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Please contact Alen Silver, National Sales Manager: alen@vistanyc.com
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THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N
CORAL CENTERPIECE
FOR FINE JEWELRY inspiration, look no further than Lauren Hutton’s first cover for U.S. Vogue in November 1966. With those expressive eyes and that asymmetrical smile (she was advised not to reveal her famously gapped teeth), you can already see a fashion icon in the making. In the photograph by Bert Stern, she wears a black satin Cossack blouse by Lynn Stuart for Mister Pants and a coral bead necklace and owl pin from Tiffany & Co. (We love the haphazardly twisted strands against the stiff gold lace trim.) By 1970 the model had embarked on an acting career, and in a staff memo then–Vogue editor Diana Vreeland wrote of Hutton, “This girl is obviously on her way to becoming an important star. I feel we are not using her importantly enough.” The magazine apparently heeded Vreeland’s call: Hutton has appeared on the cover of Vogue a record 26 times. —KRISTIN YOUNG
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BERT STERN/CONDÉ NAST VIA GETTY IMAGES
Lauren Hutton would go on to become the face of many jewelry companies, including Monet, David Webb, and Alexis Bittar
©2018 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.
Not all gems come from under the ground. The Gemological Institute of America supports communities where gems are mined, working with the Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory to build libraries in Africa and helping artisanal miners understand the quality of their discoveries with our Gem Guide. These initiatives help make it possible for regional populations to take a more active role in the industry and ultimately help their community look forward to a brighter future. Our contributions are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls. The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology
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Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu
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