JCK March/April 2018 Issue by JCK Magazine

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

MARCH/APRIL 2018

JCKONLINE.COM

POST A RING ON IT

HOW WEDDING J E W E L RY R E TA I L E R S ARE GETTING ENGAGED

STRIP PLANNER

T H E U LT R A - I N S I D E R GUIDE TO LAS VEGAS DRINKS, FOOD & FUN

SPRING FORWARD OUR ANNUAL ODE TO STORYTELLING COVERS THE W H AT S , W H Y S , A N D H O W S O F U S I N G TA L E S T O S P U R S A L E S

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

MARCH/APRIL 2018

JCKONLINE.COM

SHADES OF GRAY SILVER IN ALL ITS OXIDIZED, GLEAMING, MATTE, POLISHED, GEM-STUDDED GLORY

® 2018 SPRING COLOR OF THE YEAR

NUDE™

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Creating Precious Moments Since 1978

There’s nothing more beautiful than the inherent trust a child has in his mother. Over the last 40 years it is that same sense of trust that has helped us build our company. 8LEROW JSV XLI GSR HIRGI ]SY´ZI TPEGIH MR YW

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ALWAYS

SMASHING, ALWAYS A HIT

Our elegant and edgy creations are always a big hit. Stacked and layered, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re fashion forward designs that smash sales records and nail it every time.

JCK Luxury Las Vegas Booth 1632 To become a brand partner today, call 213.623.8900, email info@ShyCreation.com or visit ShyCreation.com

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JCK SHOW & TELL

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How does it work? Like any popular matching app or program, your interests are cross-referenced with the offerings of our exhibiting vendors (based on a series of questions they have also answered), and that’s when the magic happens.

The Solution to Discovering New Brands Unless you have a time machine (and if you do, please let us know where we can get one, too), it’s impossible to visit every single vendor on the show floor of JCK Las Vegas. So, the solution to discovering new brands for your store? Well, you could take your chances— peruse the numerous exhibitors at your leisure, stopping when you see something that catches your eye (we’re fans of that idea, too!). But it can be done better, and who doesn’t want a little help with a momentous task as this one?

Easy to Access While you’re hitting the aisles—between appointments or casual purusing— just use your smart device to access the JCK Mobile App to find your list of recommended vendors (also accessible via MY JCK online show planner). You can learn more about them, pinpoint their exact location, and make a beeline for it! And don’t worry if you forgot to fill out your profile before the show—matchmaking hubs will be located throughout prominent stations on the show floor.

Does it work? It really does. In 2017, 86% of buyers agreed the program led them to exhibitors they were previously unfamiliar with. Furthermore, 68% of buyers reported doing business with one or more of their recommendations. In 2018, we aim to make those percentages even higher, and are well on our way to building happy, lasting business relationships.

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One badge grants you access to all shows on JCK days. T H U R S D AY, M AY 3 1 M O N D AY, J U N E 4

F R I D AY, J U N E 1 M O N D AY, J U N E 4

O P E N S TO J CK R ETA I L E R S

NOW AT MANDALAY BAY!

L E A R N M O R E A B O U T J C K L A S V E G A S : J C KO N L I N E . C O M / L A S V E G A S FOLLOW @JCKEVENTS

jckinsider.com

@ j c k e v e n t s # J C K L a s Ve g a s

CONTENTS

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

Stacked, layered, loaded—silver lends itself to a sizzling-hot more-is-more jewelry look.

FEATURES 78

SILVER: AN UNVARNISHED HISTORY Our century-spanning chronicle of silver jewelry includes intriguing history, iconic works, and insights from modern-day designers. BY AMY ELLIOTT

POINT OF ORIGIN Think you’re hawking products? Think again. Stories are what sell. Take a page from jewelry’s best taletellers to learn to craft your own. BY EMILI VESILIND

TOP OF THE ROCKS Dazzling new engagement rings, from double-band designs and illusion settings to whimsical bands and three-stone styles.

RULES OF SOCIAL ENGAGEMENT Why you should be creating a strategy around your clients’ marriage proposals. BY MARTHA C. WHITE

MOMENTS OF CHARITY Retailers share the purpose behind jewelry with a social mission. BY DANIEL P. SMITH

94 MARCH / APRIL 2018

INSIDER LAS VEGAS Want to shake things up at this year’s JCK show? Check out these off-the-beaten-path spots. BY MATT VILLANO

(THIS PAGE) PHOTOGRAPH BY JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL. HAIR: CARMEL BIANCO FOR ORIBE HAIR CARE/RAY BROWN PRO; MAKEUP: REGINA HARRIS; STYLING: MAGGIE MANN; MANICURE: RACHEL SHIM USING DERMELECT/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; MODEL: ALLIE LEWIS/IMG; T-SHIRT: GAP; SWEATER: EQUIPMENT; SUNGLASSES: SELMA OPTIQUE. JEWELRY CREDITS: SEE P. 76. (P. 12) VINCENTS FINE JEWELRY: MARK LUND; DIAMOND: COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S; OSMOND: JASON LAVERIS/FILMMAGIC

WHITE HEAT

CONTENTS

JCKONLINE.COM

50 DEPARTMENTS 16 18 20 22 28 30 32 35 41 42 45

48 50 53 54 58 64

JEWEL BOX 5 things rocking the industry

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER JCK INSIDER JCKONLINE SOCIAL DIARY NEWS GEMS

A jolly jewelry holiday GEM PRICING REPORT

THE CALENDAR Industry shows, March 22–April 25, 2018

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER Danny Govberg of Govberg and WatchBox RETAIL THERAPY How do you incorporate storytelling into your sales? STORE WE ADORE Vincents Fine Jewelry in Pelham, N.Y.

THE LOOK

RED CARPET DESIGNER SHOWCASE Melissa Joy Manning JCK ASKS... Nikos Koulis

53 101 102 103 104 107

THE VAULT GOLD DIAMONDS WATCHES

SHOW BIZ It’s a little bit country! AGS Conclave heads to Nashville.

109 TOOL TIME

Online hacks to make your life easier. Plus: Stuller’s GemCam.

120 THE WAY WE WORE

Twiggy goes ultra-mod with a timepiece-adorned ensemble.

MARCH / APRIL 2018

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COVER LOOK

SPRING FORWARD

Our annual ode to storytelling covers the whats, whys, and hows of using tales to spur sales.

Butterfly Ginkgo bead ring in sterling silver and 18k yellow gold with moonstone and diamonds; $775; Michael Aram; sales@ michaelaram.com; michaelaram.com

JCKONLINE.COM

Cherish chain necklace; $995; Ippolita; sales@ ippolita.com; ippolita.com

Sterling silver 2.25-inch round hoop earrings; $90; Melissa Joy Manning; sales@ melissajoymanning.com; melissajoymanning.com

Kakwa ring; $350; Ariana BoussardReifel; hello@ marteau.co; ariana boussardreifel.com

Bhool bracelet in rhodium-plated sterling silver with 7.05 cts. t.w. diamonds; $4,000; Modern Moghul; 361-239-8799; modernmoghul.com

Lea diamond, round tanzanite, oval emerald, and Coeur amethyst Boheme oxidized silver rings; $270â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$650 each; Delphine Leymarie; sales@ delphineleymarie.com; delphineleymarie.com

Double pearl pendant with adjustable heavy silver chain; $3,600; Ayesha Mayadas; 201-503-0073; ayeshastudio.com

Oxidized silver, pearl, and diamond stick earrings; $2,200; Nancy Newberg; nancynewberg.com

SHADES OF GRAY

Silver in all its oxidized, gleaming, matte, polished, gem-studded glory.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL Hair: Carmel Bianco for Oribe Hair Care at Ray Brown Pro / Makeup: Regina Harris / Stylist: Maggie Mann Manicure: Rachel Shim for Dermelect at Artists by Timothy Priano / Model: Allie Lewis at IMG White turtleneck bodysuit by Falke; hat by Gigi Burris; dress by Rosie Assoulin MARCH / APRIL 2018

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MARCH / APRIL 2018

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

JEWEL BOX Chromanteq Bombe ring in recycled 18k white gold with 1.28 ct. golden heliodor; $5,300; The Rock Hound; susi@ therockhound.com; therockhound.com

SHOWS

DIAMONDS

Given all the high-value diamonds that have reached the auction block lately, it shouldn’t be a surprise that Sotheby’s plans to sell a 102.34 ct. D flawless round. What is surprising is where it is being sold—at its Sotheby’s Diamonds retail store in London, rather than at a Sotheby’s auction. The company wasn’t exactly clear about why it’s going this unconventional route, but did say it believed the stone would fetch more than $33 million. Of course, given that the stone isn’t being sold publicly, Sotheby’s has no obligation to announce the final price. We may never know.

JCKONLINE.COM

DIAMOND: COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S

To understand the news that emerged from the 2018 Tucson gem shows in early February, consider three words: blockchain, Ethiopia, and Ultra Violet. The first refers to the suddenly ubiquitous tracking technology; some think it can be used to establish supply chain transparency in the gem trade. The second is the source that keeps on giving: In addition to Ethiopian opals and emeralds, sapphires from the East African nation were spotted in the desert. And the third is, of course, Pantone’s color of the year, a purple hue seen in abundance at the JCK Tucson show at the JW Marriott Starr Pass Resort & Spa, where designers such as Susi Smither of London-based The Rock Hound used it with other gems in pieces aglow with color. “We brought the to the desert,” she joked on Instagram. Pot of gold included.

Santos de Cartier large model in steel on interchangeable bracelet and leather strap; $6,850 (price subject to change); Cartier; 800-2278437; cartier.com

AWARDS Did you hear? Diamond earrings were the big winners at the 2018 Academy Awards on March 4. Allison Williams, Nicole Kidman, Elisabeth Moss, and Salma Hayek were outfitted in glittering danglers by Harry Winston; Ashley Judd and Zendaya chose chandelier-style stunners by Bulgari; and double nominee Mary J. Blige wowed in Forevermark drops. We did spot a few emeralds (Octavia Spencer in Lorraine Schwartz, Chile’s Daniela Vega in Chopard) and sapphires (Helen Mirren in Harry Winston). But as a rule: The more diamonds, the better! Jennifer Garner in Piaget Sunny Side of Life earrings with 11.77 cts. t.w. diamonds and 10.33 cts. t.w. sapphires in 18k white gold

STORE: COURTESY OF TOURNEAU; GARNER: COURTESY OF PIAGET

WATCHES

Tourneau, generally considered America’s largest watch retailer, has been gobbled up by Swiss-owned Bucherer, which is considered the same thing in Europe. The 118-year-old, 28-store chain has been rumored to be up for sale for some time, but its new owners say they don’t plan to change the Tourneau way of doing business or current management. One thing that may change: the name. Replacing it with Bucherer is “something we’re looking at,” admits a spokesperson.

Lotus Peace Petals charm bangle in Rafaelian Silver finish; $28; Alex and Ani; 800-725-7822; alexandani.com

LAWSUITS

It’s safe to say Alex and Ani probably regrets going to Jared. In August 2016, Jared’s owner, Sterling Jewelers, announced, with great fanfare, that it was testing Alex and Ani product in 108 of its stores. But sales disappointed, and anti-discounting provisions in Alex and Ani’s contract made things worse. The reason we know all this is that Sterling and Alex and Ani are now in litigation over their ill-fated partnership. The retailer says the bead brand owes more than $2 million for returned product. Alex and Ani retorts that Sterling has been making unauthorized sales of its pieces on the Jared and Kay Jewelers websites.

MARCH / APRIL 2018

FROM THE EDITOR

This silver ombré chain by Pforzheim, Germany–based Schofer is covered in acrylic paint!

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com MARCH / APRIL 2018

HERE’S MINE: MY twin sister, Julia, and I were born on a summer night in 1973 but we don’t share a birthday, or a birth month. Confused? The explanation is more straightforward than you might think: I was born 10 minutes before midnight, on June 30; Jul was born 10 minutes after midnight, on July 1. You might say it’s the defining experience of my life, for while Jul and I are as close as two sisters can be, we’re also polar opposites. I’ve always considered the circumstances of our birth a metaphor for our differences. The anecdotes that underpin our favorite jewels—how and by whom they were made— are just as compelling. There’s a reason we love origin myths, the tales that explain how an object, a custom, or, in our industry’s case, a business came into existence. Humans are wired to love stories; it’s how we derive pleasure from objects well beyond their aesthetic appeal. In “Point of Origin” (page 82), senior editor Emili Vesilind delves into the founding stories of three of our industry’s most successful jewelers, distilling what it takes to spin narratives into sales. That same spirit guides contributor Danny Smith’s feature, “Moments of Charity” (page 94), a look at how retailers are promoting

jewels that do good, and “Rules of Social Engagement” (page 90) by Martha White, who explains why retailers who specialize in wedding jewelry are employing social media tools such as Instagram to share their clients’ love stories, and simultaneously fuel their own success. (On page 86, the on-trend ring selection in “Top of the Rocks” by jewelry director Randi Molofsky offers an even more direct path to sales!) In “Silver: An Unvarnished History” (page 78), JCK ’s All That Glitters blogger Amy Elliott applies the art of storytelling to silver, a precious metal with a fascinating history as well as a long list of admirers from Alexander Calder to David Yurman and countless anonymous yet incredibly talented artisans in between. Our own homage to the white metal, “White Heat” on page 68, makes clear that the score in the perennial silver vs. gold matchup is pretty much tied. Last but not least, don’t miss “Insider Las Vegas” (page 98), our handy by-thenumbers illustrated guide to Sin City’s coolest under-the-radar hangouts, for when we all descend on JCK Las Vegas at the beginning of June. See you at No. 11?! JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

veryone’s got a story.

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MARCH / APRIL 2018

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 1

Cuff in 18k and 22k gold and platinum with 28.63 ct. Munsteiner-cut aquamarine and white and blue diamonds; $37,000; Atelier Zobel; 49-75-312-5962; atelierzobel.com

Interchangeable earrings in 18k gold and oxidized silver; $2,500; Nina Nguyen; 720-459-7664; nina-nguyen.com

Seashell ring in 18k yellow gold with aquamarine; $4,665 (mounting only); Alex Šepkus; 212-391-8466; alexsepkus.com

Alexa ring in 18k yellow gold with rose-cut tourmalines and diamonds; $3,700; IO Collective; jt@iocollective.co; iocollective.co

THE TOAST OF JCK TUCSON

“I love discovering—and rediscovering—designers at gem week’s best jewelry show!” —Victoria Gomelsky, JCK editor-in-chief

What JCK magazine's VICTORIA GOMELSKY is loving this month

JCKONLINE.COM

PORTRAIT: NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS

Circle pendant in pink silver with blue lace agate; $225; W. Britt; 201-460-1307; wbritt.com

BOLD STATEMENTS FOR TODAY. HEIRLOOMS FOR TOMORROW. This unique collection of art-driven jewelry opens a whole new category in your store. Each distinctive piece is painstakingly hand-gilded with 22k gold leaf in the US and lets a woman beautifully share her own personal story.

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

My week in the Arizona desert for JCK Tucson was fantastic, as always!

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com MARCH / APRIL 2018

FIRST, WE HAD a jam-packed 24 Karat Club weekend in New York City, followed quickly by a strong edition of the Centurion Jewelry Show, a very successful JCK Tucson, and a solid American Gem Trade Association GemFair, along with assorted other shows that make up the annual Arizona gem week. My four-day New York whirl, which revolved around the 24 Karat Club of the City of New York’s black-tie gala, began with our annual JCK Industry Fund Committee meeting, where we make the difficult decision of which industry projects to fund. It’s wonderful to be a part of an organization that has given out more than $6 million in grants since its inception in 1997. On Friday, the Jewelers Vigilance Committee hosted its annual luncheon. It was a terrific opportunity for the committee’s new president and CEO, Tiffany Stevens, to address the room and reflect on her first year in the position. I’m excited about the new perspective and energy she brings to the organization. Friday night was Jewelers of America’s annual Gem Awards, where the industry and consumer media get together to celebrate and honor the stars of our trade. This year’s highlight was the recipient of the Gem Award for Jewelry Style: Will & Grace star Debra Messing. Our industry needs more beloved celebrities sharing their passion for jewelry as Debra does so consistently. It was fantastic! Saturday brought the Jewelers’ Security

Alliance luncheon, honoring those who work diligently to keep our industry safe from violent crime. Our own Yancy Weinrich, senior vice president of Reed Jewelry Group, received JSA’s Industry Service Award for her leadership in helping the organization achieve its mission. I could not be prouder to follow in Yancy’s footsteps as a board member of this singularly focused and vital organization. The 24 Karat dinner itself, on Saturday night, was outstanding. One of the longestrunning events at the Waldorf Astoria— dating back to the hotel’s old location where the Empire State Building now stands—the dinner was moved this year to the New York Hilton Midtown. While the nostalgic part of me missed the old location, I truly enjoyed the more modern (1962 versus 1929) setting and the performance-friendly ballroom. And singer Katharine McPhee’s appearance was one of those amazing moments where a true performer is seen in her prime. Wow! After New York, it was on to Arizona for gem week. I look forward every year to this time in the desert. There’s something about the week that puts everyone in a celebratory mood. And Tucson is on fire with terrific new restaurants, a hip bar scene, and much more. If you’ve never been, make it happen next year. Next up are Baselworld in Basel, Switzerland, and the American Gem Society Conclave in Nashville. I’m sure I’ll have fun news to report! See you then. JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; TUCSON: DAVEL5957/ISTOCK/GETTY

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 149 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com U.S. ADVERTISING SALES

EDITORIAL CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com Senior Editor / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI

FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHIHART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors KEVIN CREMENS, RYANN FORD, KEN GUNMAKER, ETHAN HILL, NICOLE LAMOTTE, STEPHEN LEWIS, MARK LUND, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, GAVIN Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;NEILL, CODY PICKENS, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS, PATRIC SHAW, JOEL STANS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, LUXURY, JIS) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305 cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com

ISRAEL ITZCHAK ARIKHA P.O. Box 3237, Ramat Gan 52131, Israel 972-3-751-2165/6, fax 972-3-575-2201 galisaac@zahav.net.il THAILAND BUSABA THAWEEPHOON Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7374, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell +66 96 725 1525 busaba.thaw@reedtradex.co.th

CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Industry Vice President KATIE DOMINESEY 203-840-5470 kdominesey@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive ANA CROSBY Renewals & Sponsorships: Currents, Diamond Plaza, Lab-Grown Diamond, Bridal, Key Accounts, First Look (A–L) 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com

Special Events and Conference Director KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive ALEXANDRA WURSTER International Companies & Pavilions (New & Returning); JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com

Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK JCK Las Vegas JA New York Select Shows Centurion South Beach Celebrating 35 Years

Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Renewals & Sponsorships: Clockwork, Essentials & Tech, Security, Retail Experience, Gallery, Bridge, Sterling, First Look (M–Z), Vicenza 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive DANA KARP New Companies (A–L), Security; JCK magazine 203-840-5687 dkarp@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive BARBARA MURRAY New Companies (M–Z), Retail Experience 203-840-5305 bmurray@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Bridge (Renewals); JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager CHADAÉ BOWLER 203-840-5845 cbowler@reedjewelrygroup.com

L U X U R Y & S W I S S WAT C H E V E N T S Industry Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com

Marketing Manager MOLLY FITZPATRICK 203-840-5379 mfitzpatrick@reedjewelrygroup.com

Special Events and Conference Director KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET LUXURY 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design @ LUXURY 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager HANNAH CONNORTON 203-840-5492 hconnorton@reedjewelrygroup.com

Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

“My name is Ron Pierro, and I’m the owner of Pierro’s Jewelers, located in Bradenton, Florida. The store was started in 1951 by my father. At the present time, we’re members of IJO and we’ve previously been members of the American Gem Society. Through the years of attending IJO jewelry conventions, I have heard the name Wilkerson mentioned many times. I’ve seen their ads, I’ve talked to other jewelers, and I’ve heard nothing but good things. Wilkerson has more than met my expectations on marketing.

“Wilkerson has more than met my expectations on marketing.” Ron Pierro Pierro’s Jewelers Bradenton, FL

At the present time we are approximately 160% ahead of the goal with our sale. Wilkerson has a full marketing program and I basically did nothing. They have it all scheduled: advertising, newspaper, television, and radio. Everything is very professionally done, and you just sit back and let them do their work. The onsite consultants did an excellent job. The effect of the sale was tremendous. We made way more money than I anticipated and I’m very pleased. With three days to go, we’re down to approximately 15 pieces. As far as the sale goes and the ending of the sale, I couldn’t be happier. Everything was professional and very well done. I’m extremely happy and I would recommend it to anyone.” -Ron Pierro

Contact us today for a free consultation! Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999. Or visit us at wilkersons.com.

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

INSIDER

DID YOU KNOW?

Sunscreen was invented by a Miami Beach pharmacist, Benjamin Green, as a thick red gel to protect WWII soldiers. He later refined the formula, and it hit shelves as Coppertone. The JIS April show runs April 14–16 in Miami Beach, Fla.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT jisshow.com

ROSY FUTURE

Retailer-designer Anuschka Pashel takes us inside her Denver boutique Bloom, where she curates a blend of jewelry, home decor, and (yes!) flowers. “I don’t choose anything that looks massproduced,” says Pashel. “In the jewelry industry, the possibilities are endless.” For more from Pashel, visit jckinsider.com/full-circle, and don’t miss her Innovative Retailer interview in JCK ’s May issue.

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.

BEACH: MEINZAHN/ISTOCK/GETTY

FLORAL HISTORY

Who says pink and red are only for Valentine’s Day? On jckinsider.com, JCK contributing editor Brittany Siminitz picks a stunning selection of rose-colored gems—like Omi Privé’s padparadscha ring, top, and Sutra’s rubellite and pink spinel earrings, above—to last all year.

THE NEW MARK OF EXCELLENCE Discover a new level of excellence in fashion forward silver jewelry. Always in style, with universal appeal, our creations are hand-forged in the U.S. for flawless design and lasting perfection. Each piece reflects the unique style that every discerning woman desires. To become a brand partner, call us today at 800.828.1122 or visit edlevinjewelry.com.

E.L. Designs ED LEVIN STUDIO

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

5)0345&/ %2/' o 81,48( o 02'(51

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

ONLINE

5)0345&/3*/(4 $0.

@JCKMagazine

JCKmagazine

@jckmagazine

INSTAGEM FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH The Contemporary Jewelry Design Group boasts nearly 100 members, which means its Instagram feed (@cjdgjewelers) is a veritable gold mine of product pics from myriad multitalented artists. Tags to all the designersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; individual accounts will have you scrolling through gems for hours upon hours!

Russian-born, New York Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;based Alex Soldier stuns with his Sun cuff in silver, gold, and black rhodium.

Get in on the three-stone trend with this pink sapphire and rhodolite garnet beauty by Jennifer Dawes.

We love a good stack! Thankfully, so does San Franciscoâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;based artist Rebecca Overmann.

This mixed-metal multicolor gemstone necklace by Sydney Lynch makes a major statement.

Carnelians and Crownwork fromâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; who else?â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Ray Griffiths. Who else does that gold motif?

These Peruvian blue opal earrings by Rachel Atherley Jewelry look almost good enough to eat!

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I guess that puts them right up there with the best-known restaurant brand in the world, McDonaldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D;JCKonline reader Jon Parker on â&#x20AC;&#x153;Pandora Says Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Now the Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best-Known Jewelry Brandâ&#x20AC;? JCKONLINE.COM

SOCIAL DIARY

24K / GEM AWARDS

32 .

ALL-STAR WEEKEND

Singer Katharine McPhee gave a stellar performance.

Diamantaire Jeff Fischer and Patek Philippe U.S. president Larry Pettinelli

The Kingswood Co.’s Kristie Nicolosi and designer Steven Lagos

W Magazine’s Grace Fuller and designer Pamela Love flank Gemwinning jewelry designer Irene Neuwirth.

6 MARCH / APRIL 2018

THE GEMMIES

And the winner of the Gem Award for media excellence is…Marion Fasel, founder of The Adventurine.

The Jan. 19 Gem Awards at Manhattan’s Cipriani 42nd Street sealed the event’s reputation as jewelry’s most glamorous affair

Gem Award for jewelry style recipient Debra Messing

B&B Fine Gems’ Dave Bindra (aka @gemfluencer) and For Future Reference’s Meaghan Flynn Petropoulos JCKONLINE.COM

(1–4) HECHLER PHOTOGRAPHERS; (5, 7) SUNNY NORTON PHOTOGRAPHY; (6, 8) MATTEO PRANDONI/BFA

The 24 Karat Club of the City of New York celebrated its 116th annual gala on Jan. 20 at one of Manhattan’s midcentury gems

After more than a century at the Waldorf Astoria, the event settled into its new location at the New York Hilton Midtown.

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

MARCH / APRIL 2018

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS Macy’s sells fine jewelry from such brands as Le Vian, Effy, Scott Kay, Alex Woo, and Gucci— plus its own housebranded pieces.

14k yellow gold diamond pendant, $4,950, 14k white gold diamond pendant, $2,745; Effy; 212-944-0020; effyjewelry.com

SWELL SEASON

The 2017 holiday was surprisingly festive, with sales rising 5.9 percent

BY ROB BATES

OR AN INDUSTRY that has often seemed to be wallowing in nonstop gloom, the 2017 holiday provided an unexpectedly merry respite. Jewelry spending grew 5.9 percent this season compared with the prior year, according to Mastercard’s consumer analytics tool SpendingPulse, with many sales coming in at the very last minute. Overall, SpendingPulse found that U.S. holiday sales rose 4.9 percent—the largest increase since 2011—which meant the jewelry sector outpaced retail as a whole. On an individual basis, results were a little more mixed. Tiffany & Co. posted strong holiday sales, with comp sales rising 5 percent over the two-month holiday season. Sales were particularly strong in the high, fine solitaire, and fashion jewelry categories, the company said.

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

NEWS GEMS What’s Clicking on JCKonline

Signet Jewelers did not have such good news to share. America’s largest jeweler reported that comps declined 5.3 percent, which the company blamed on its ongoing transition to outsourced credit (see “3 Questions for…Gina Drosos” on the opposite page). While comps plunged at both its Kay Jewelers and Jared the Galleria of Jewelry nameplates (down 10.8 percent and 5.9 percent, respectively), Signet pointed out that Zales, which did not have to deal with a credit disruption, saw same-store sales rise 4 percent. Meanwhile, the department store sector seemed to stage an unexpected comeback this holiday, with strong results for Kohl’s (comps up 6.9 percent), Target (up 3.4 percent), J.C. Penney Co. (up 3.4 percent), and Macy’s (up 1 percent). Both J.C. Penney and Macy’s singled out fine jewelry as a strong seller. Even so, despite this good news for retail, analysts expect stores to continue to close this year. Macy’s announced it will shutter 19 stores in 2018. And Fred Meyer Jewelers is closing a slew of its mall stores; a supplier puts the number at 31. “We are closing underperforming mall stores [under both Fred Meyer Jewelers and Littman Jewelers brands] whose leases are ending,” says spokesperson Kirsten Darrow.

The top stories for February 2018. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline.com/ newsletters/subscribe.

Why the Nirav Modi– Mehul Choksi Scandal Matters: JCK news director Rob Bates looks at the fallout from the twin banking scandals roiling India.

Idaho Retailer Jensen Jewelers Files Lawsuit Against Zales: A local jeweler sues the Signetowned chain store for allegedly misappropriating its name.

Trend-Spotting Jewels and Gems at JCK Tucson 2018: JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky’s colorfilled report from the Tucson gem shows.

Alex and Ani Claims That Sterling Breached Contract: Alex and Ani fires back after the lawsuit Sterling Jewelers filed against the bangle brand in December.

George Murray, Last of Signet’s Old Guard, Leaving Company: The company’s chief retail insights and strategy officer is departing in May.

“I can’t help but wonder, if I were a man, would my career have had a different, loftier trajectory? Why is it that there aren’t more women in leadership positions in our industry?” —Jewelry veteran Sally Morrison, accepting the Gem Award for Lifetime Achievement at Jewelers of America’s 16th annual Gem Awards on Jan. 19

JCKONLINE.COM

MORRISON: MATTEO PRANDONI/BFA

Engagement rings from J.C. Penney’s Modern Bride collection

NEWS GEMS

Q&A

Rings from the Neil Lane Bridal Collection, sold at Zales, Kay Jewelers, and Jared the Galleria of Jewelry

3 Questions for...

GINA DROSOS VIRGINIA â&#x20AC;&#x153;GINAâ&#x20AC;? DROSOS, CEO of Signet Jewelers, spoke to JCK in January about where she sees opportunities, possible store closings, and the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s credit issues. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;RB What do you see as areas for growth in the industry? Bridal continues to be an area for growth. We have been through a several-year period where the number of engagements was declining, which was really a demographic factor: Young people are getting engaged later, on average. Now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 29 for men and 27 for women. So we have come through that trend, and now we are expecting to see year-on-year growth in the number of engagements. There is an opportunity for bridal. Beyond that, our opportunity is to really speak to women self-purchasers, like myself, like many other women who want to express themselves and have jewelry as part of their look. We havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t had the kind of assortment, nor frankly the marketing, that has allowed us to reach those customers. Signet has 3,000 stores in the United States. With so much talk of store closings, do you think that number will decline in the years to come? We are very customer-led on this. Where there is traffic, we will be there. We see a competitive advantage in our store footprint. For a number of years, we have been moving out of malls, where traffic is declining, JCKONLINE.COM

into off-mall formats, where we are able to serve our customers much better. Signet has always perceived its in-house credit as giving it an edge. Do you see that changing, now that you are outsourcing your credit? Credit has been, is, and will be a competitive advantage

for our company. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not going away. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s changed is how we finance our credit, and that part of the decision has gone very well. It frees up Signet to invest more money in the things that we believe will be able to drive growth. What, frankly, has not gone well in the transition is the operational and executional

changes. And thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s really a change-management issue that was underestimated. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a person of plain speak, so Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been transparent about that internally and externally. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something that we are working very hard to fix, and we are making improvements day by day, but we are not 100 percent there yet.

Fine Jewelry Displays

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 ,,,- >Z`e^ Kh\d ;eo]' Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE O Edouard Bovet Tourbillon AIEB001 in 18k red gold with blue guilloché dial; price on request; Bovet; 888-9091822; bovet.com

A watchmaker assembles the movement on the Tourbillon, which converts from wristwatch to pocket watch to table clock.

assistant vice president for Cartier. Heather Lynn has been appointed Bovet USA’s vice president of sales.

Board of Trade. Richard Weisenfeld will continue in

Duncan Pay, editor-in-chief of GIA’s quarterly journal, Gems

The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council,

& Gemology, has been named GIA’s vice president and chief academic officer. He replaces Bev Hori, who will retire in May 2018.

which promotes India’s diamond and jewelry industry, has elected a new chair and vice chair. Chair Pramod Kumar Agarwal and vice chair Colin Shah will serve from 2018 to 2020.

Reginald Brack

JCK LAS VEGAS BOOTH # B11155 Stainless Steel Jewelry for Men

www.arzsteel.com info@arzsteel.com 514-489 -8668 Looking for -Sales Reps

The NPD Group has appointed Reginald Brack watch and luxury industry analyst. Previously, he was general manager of watches for Detroit-based startup StockX. Mike Spezialetti has been appointed president of Bovet USA. Prior to joining Bovet, he was North American

Longtime industry executive Adam Graham has been named director of sales for the western territory at Joshua J Fine Jewelry. He will be responsible for the company’s U.S. accounts from Illinois west, and in western Canada. Anthony J. Capuano is retiring as president of Jewelers

his role as acting president of the group.

Colin Shah JCKONLINE.COM

WATCHMAKER: © PATRICESCHREYER.COM; WATCH: © MARCGYSINPHOTO

COMINGS AND GOINGS

NEWS GEMS

I&P

Proudly made in the USA Since 1951

Ring in platinum with 8.68 ct. radiantcut, 3.1 cts. t.w. trapezoid, and 0.9 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds; price on request; Joshua J Fine Jewelry; 213-6240111; joshuaj.com

George Murray, Signet Jewelers’ chief retail insights

and strategy officer, will leave the company after 26 years in May. Chief human resources officer Steven Becker is also leaving.

Karen Katz, who has served as Neiman Marcus Group’s

president and CEO since 2010, is retiring. She will be replaced as CEO by Geoffroy van Raemdonck, who most recently served for three years as group president for Europe, the Middle East, and Africa and global travel retail at Ralph Lauren.

Helena Foulkes Helena Foulkes, whose retail career began at Tiffany & Co., is the new CEO of Hudson’s Bay Co., owner of Hudson’s Bay, Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Gilt Groupe. She comes from CVS Health.

recently retired from the York Regional Police after 30 years of service, will take Lamont’s place.

Cindy DiPietrantonio

Sotheby’s has appointed Sam Hines as the worldwide

Alex and Ani president Cindy DiPietrantonio and chief financial officer Bob Woodruff

head of its watch division. He will be based in Hong Kong. Hines has worked for rival auction houses Phillips and Christie’s.

have both resigned after about a year and a half in their jobs. No replacements have been announced. John Lamont has stepped Jamie Hector

Jewelry brand Lagos has promoted Jamie Hector to public relations director, a new position. She joined the company in March 2017. JCKONLINE.COM

down after 17 years serving as director of loss prevention for Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC). He will continue as a consultant to JVC’s crime prevention program, which he founded in 2000. Don Cardwell, who

World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry Visit Us at the JCK Las Vegas Show

Sam Hines

516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

14k yellow gold pink sapphire earrings; $1,227; Stuller; 800-8777777; stuller.com

Tiffany & Co. senior vice president for strategy and business development JeanMarc Bellaiche is leaving the company March 31. Scott Burger, president of Pandora Americas, stepped

Gary Austein, who for 17

years was vice president of sales for the independent division at Royal Chain, announced his retirement in early January. Kamran Melamed will manage the division on an interim basis. Industry veteran Barry Lustig has joined the Gordon Co. as its new vice president. He has more than 20 years’ experience in the diamond and jewelry industry, working for GIA, Cora Diamond, Lazare Kaplan, and Jade Trau.

886

down in February. A veteran of the food business, Burger worked for Pandora for 10 years. He became president of the Americas division in 2012. No replacement has been announced.

REMEMBERED

Vrai & Oro, the jewelry designer owned by lab-grown diamond producer Diamond Foundry, is closing its Los Angeles retail store after only six months.

The European Union will head the Kimberley Process in 2018. Federica Mogherini, the EU’s high representative for foreign affairs and security policy, will hold the role of chair.

Douglas Schubot, who owned prominent Michigan jeweler Jules R. Schubot, died Jan. 18 in Delray Beach, Fla. He was 87.

COMPANIES Stuller has acquired the

Cranston, R.I.–based

Federica Mogherini

The number of North American jewelry businesses that ceased operations in 2017, according to the Jewelers Board of Trade. That’s a significant improvement over 2016, when 1,564 companies stopped doing business.

JCKONLINE.COM

MOGHERINI: © EUROPEAN UNION 2018/GIUSEPPE CACACE

Gary Austein

laser welder and engraving company B&D Sales Corp.

NEWS GEMS

GEM PRICING

GEM SHOWS SEE HEALTHY DEMAND RESULTS FROM THE 2018 Tucson gem shows have given members of the colored-stone community cause to cheer. Buyers were more serious this year, focusing beyond immediate needs, and demand was spread across a wide range of gems. Blue sapphire was uncharacteristically soft, but plenty of other gems saw high demand, including garnets, tourmalines, aquamarines, and Ethiopian emeralds. One of the most interesting trends this year was the strength of the exotics, such as the American-sourced chalcedonies and agates. It was also notable that a growing number of dealers declined requests for memos. Memo has become an increasingly contentious issue for suppliers and colored-stone wholesalers, who buy on a cash basis at the mines but are then expected to place goods into retail stores with no commitment of a purchase for stock. At press time, the next test of market strength would come with the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show in early March. Most dealers were optimistic for another strong result.

VS1

VS2

41 SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant

FINE

Alexandrite

$6,800

$6,320

$5,700

$4,720

$6,080

$5,800

$5,450

$4,470

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

Rhodolite Garnet I

$5,700

$5,200

$4,950

$4,000

$4,900

$4,500

$4,080

$3,760

1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round

Rubellite Tourmaline

$3,570

$3,200

$2,700

$2,340

$3,200

$3,000

$2,600

$2,270

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

Tsavorite Garnet I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant G

$12,200

$11,300

$9,350

$7,600

$10,300

$10,000

$8,300

$7,150

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I

$9,700

$7,900

$7,600

$6,725

$7,200

$7,300

$6,400

$6,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut

Pink Sapphire

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

$6,600

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

• Rembrandt’s charm displays generate $4,500 - $7,500 in sales per square foot! • Complete selection of inventory-controlled displays available. Re-order only what you sell! • Our vertical displays contain the best-selling charms by region, leading to impulse Sterling Silver sales and Karat Gold special orders.

What Retailers Are Saying “The Charm Program has been a great success for our stores. The repeat business generated from an initial charm sale is impressive. Customers return to buy charms for other occasions, along with other items in our store.”

• Our charm collectors are repeat customers!

Lifetime Warranty

Handcrafted in USA & Canada

- John Green, President and CEO, Lux Bond & Green

MARCH / APRIL 2018

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR INTERNATIONAL

• MARCH

• APRIL

West Springfield, Mass.

22–25

3–7

20–22

Istanbul

Sharjah, United Arab Emirates

20–21

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS glwshows.com

GEM FAIRE San Diego

gemfaire.com

March Birthstone

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

AQUAMARINE

Dallas

Braided cuff in 18k gold with 64.48 ct. aquamarine; $40,000; Temple St. Clair; 212-219-8664; templestclair.com

intergem.com

22–24

CELTIC SHOWCASE SECAUCUS

U.S. • MARCH 23–25

GEM FAIRE

Eugene, Ore. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Collinsville, Ill. intergem.com

STULLER’S BENCH JEWELER WORKSHOP Lafayette, La.

stuller.com/workshop

WALNUT CREEK BEAD & DESIGN SHOW

Walnut Creek, Calif. beadanddesign.com

24–25

Secaucus, N.J.

celticshows.com

26–27

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD SHOW Las Vegas iwjg.com

30–APRIL 1 GEM FAIRE

Salt Lake City gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Columbus, Ohio intergem.com

14–15

toteshows.com

Greenville, S.C.

Indianapolis

7–8

AMERICAN BEAD & MERCHANDISE SHOW Tucker, Ga.

american beadshows.com

13–15

GEM FAIRE

Hillsboro, Ore. gemfaire.com

• APRIL

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

6–8

Houston

Puyallup, Wash.

NEW ORLEANS SPRING BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW

GEM FAIRE

gemfaire.com

AMERICAN BEAD & MERCHANDISE SHOW

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

american beadshows.com

intergem.com

Louisville, Ky.

TREASURES OF THE EARTH GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

intergem.com

Kenner, La.

aksshow.com

MIDEAST WATCH & JEWELLERY SHOW

ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW istanbuljewelry show.com

19–22

CHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD, JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR Shenzhen, China

exhibitions.jewellery netasia.com/szj

mideastjewellery.com

22–27

4–6

BASELWORLD

Basel, Switzerland baselworld.com

FASHION JEWELLERY EXPO TOKYO Tokyo

23–25

ac-expo.jp

GEM & JEWELLERY INDIA INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION Chennai, India chennai. jewelleryfair.in

16–19

JEWELLERY SALON

Riyadh, Saudi Arabia jewellerysalon.com

23–25

AMERICAN BEAD & MERCHANDISE SHOW american beadshows.com

AMERICAN GEM SOCIETY CONCLAVE

Nashville, Tenn.

americangemsociety. org/conclave

APRIL 14–16

JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE (JIS)

Miami Beach, Fla. jisshow.com

April Birthstone

DIAMOND

19–22

AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW

Engagement ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.22 ct. rose-cut diamond and 0.13 ct. t.w. round diamonds; $2,800; Kaali Designs; 612-963-6674; kaalidesigns.com

St. Paul, Minn. craftcouncil.org

TRANSWORLD JEWELRY, FASHION & ACCESSORIES SHOW Rosemont, Ill.

DON’T FORGET… LUXURY MAY 30–JUNE 4 JCK LAS VEGAS JUNE 1–4

jfashow.com

Los Angeles

JCKONLINE.COM

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

MARCH / APRIL 2018

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK Danny Govberg Govberg govbergwatches.com WatchBox thewatchbox.com

CHANGE AGENT

An evangelist for omnichannel retailing, Danny Govberg is transforming the way secondhand luxury timepieces are bought and sold

BY EMILI VESILIND

PAIGE THATCHER

EARS BEFORE THERE was a viable market for previously owned luxury watches, Danny Govberg was enthralled with them. The CEO of Govberg Jewelers and cofounder of the e-commerce platform WatchBox took an interest in secondhand timepieces in the early ’80s, mainly as a way to stand out in his family’s crowded Philadelphia-based jewelry business. “If someone came in to buy a diamond, it would be my dad, then my grandmother, then my grandfather—I would be something like fifth in line,” recalls Govberg with a laugh. Today, the retailer is one of the world’s most experienced dealers of used watches. With WatchBox—which functions as Govberg’s pre-owned retail arm but is technically a separate business—he’s helped build the ultimate

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Spotted on WatchBox: a pre-owned Patek Philippe World Time watch with 39.5 mm 18k white gold case and cloisonné enamel dial

“The human factor is important. If we don’t talk to the customer, we don’t make the sales we would otherwise.” —Danny Govberg

one-stop shop for watch enthusiasts. Through the omnichannel platform, which includes a by-appointment store in Philadelphia, consumers can trade, buy, sell, and research preowned (mainly Swiss) watches. “Most retailers can only sell you a new watch,” Govberg says. “And this doesn’t make sense. You’re not told at a car dealership, ‘The only thing you can do here is buy a new car.’ We do it all, and we’re the best at it.” Your family was in diamonds for generations. How did you get going with watches? In 1983, I went to a couple of shows, and I eventually became a dealer for Vacheron Constantin, Rolex, and a few others—and I was buying watches from the ’50s to the ’80s. Back then, it wasn’t as hard to get watches. Now you could go to a top watch brand and you may never get it, or you’ll have to wait 10 years.… I was getting brands in 1985, back when IWC was distributed by a gold manufacturing company. MARCH / APRIL 2018

WatchBox accounts for roughly 60 percent of your total business. To what do you attribute its success? Customers want to be able to buy, sell, and trade their timepieces with very little friction, and we let them do that. Before, it just wasn’t easy to sell or trade pre-owned watches, so they sat in drawers. Now that it’s easy to do, it’s like oil gushers are coming out of drawers. Women have always been able to sell gold, but men haven’t been able to sell with confidence before. As Swiss watch brands exploded, selling new and pre-owned watches became easier—you don’t need to be a genius to sell Patek Philippe. I mean, so many retailers make their living on Rolex’s back, and because of that they have not had to innovate. Our pre-owned watches are like new—they’re in mint condition—and come with a 15-month warranty. We’re a service center for Breitling and Patek Philippe. People have trust in the fact that we’re bringing these watches back. Watches have to

work, not like jewelry. Which is why a platform like The RealReal doesn’t work as well for watches. Where do you see the pre-owned watch category going in the future? The whole craze for pre-owned luxury watches is just growing. No one ever throws out a Rolex, so every year it’s like a certain amount of watches enter the world…and the world just has to eat them. Pre-owned has a very healthy future. It’s been growing at 35 percent every year for us. You were one of the first sellers of pre-owned luxury items in the e-commerce game. Have you always prioritized technology? Definitely. I was always into technology. And around seven years ago, I started to realize that technology is going to change the game. So I made a decision then to understand eBay and certain other online forums. Then we started to really invest in tech—apps, social, e-commerce.…

The journey [for customers] starts at Google now, people doing a Google search for a product. Which is why we spend over $2 million a year on payper-click just with Google. We try to get people to begin their journey with us. A lot of retailers and brands are saying, “This thing called the internet, you must do something about it; this hurts us and it’s getting in our way.” But the internet is not going away, so we’ve taken the approach of embracing technology. What I’d like to say is “Thank you, thank you, thank you for the opportunity to embrace the internet.” There’s plenty of room for all kinds of retailers to do great things, but they can’t hope that change is going to come. They have to make change come.

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SHOP TALK

RETAIL THERAPY

TALK IS SWEET BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: How do you incorporate storytelling into your retail business?

BRYAN FERRO OWNER FERRO ESTATE & CUSTOM JEWELERS Stowe, Vt. ferrojewelers.com

I’m third generation in my business, so we have a lot of history and knowledge and stories we can tell. We’re always weaving in stories from the past when we’re talking to clients—things we’ve experienced and know about. That’s how you build relationships, by getting a little more personal with the customer. We also might provide more context on an estate piece when we write up our appraisals, when we have it; we don’t just write up the technical information. People love hearing the backstories of the pieces they’re buying.

SHELIA BAYES OWNER SHELIA BAYES FINE JEWELERS Lexington, Ky. sheliabayes.com

I think everything is about storytelling. We feel like it’s not really about the size of your stone, it’s the size of your story. One of the things we’ve done that has been widely read and talked about is a series of advertisements called “The Story Behind the Ring.” We take engaged couples and do professional photography and share their love stories. The first time we did it, I ran into someone who almost verbatim told the story back to me, she liked it so much. In this day and age, everyone is looking to connect. We’ve become so techdriven, we forget that it’s our stories that really connect us.

Our approach to telling stories with our marketing echoes the design and the spirit of our brand—it’s playful, flirtatious, and fun! We never take ourselves too seriously. We told a story in a recent photo shoot we did where [fashion designer/former London It girl] Susie Cave wore a faux fur with our colored Scorpion rings. The story was about prettiness but also confidence.

CLAIRE KNUDTSON OWNER KNUDTSON’S JEWELERS Roseburg, Ore. facebook.com/pg/knudtsonsjewelers NORA KOGAN OWNER NORA KOGAN New York City norakogan.com

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We talk a lot! It really depends on the customer, but I’m always telling stories—I’ve told some whammies over the years. And with fine jewelry, there are of course lots of stories to tell. We talk about the gems and the design of pieces during the [sales process]. JCKONLINE.COM

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SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

227 FIFTH AVE. PELHAM, N.Y.

VINCENTS FINE JEWELRY

I Owner Vincent Perugini and Cooper the Cavapoo

MARCH / APRIL 2018

N THE FALL of 2016, Vincent Perugini was walking around SoHo in New York City when his cellphone rang. “What do you think of Pelham, New York?” asked his father, referring to the oldest town in Westchester County. Perugini, who hails from a long line of jewelers (including his great-grandfather, for whom he is named), was in a career quandary at the time. After stints at fashion brands including Max Mara and Fendi, not to mention years as a marketing director for a jewelry retailer, he didn’t know what he wanted to do next. His father, Thomas, who has been in fine jewelry manufacturing for 30 years, offered a suggestion: “I think we should think about opening a store there.” Less than a year later, in May 2017, Vincents—no apostrophe—Fine Jewelry opened its doors. “There’s just such a great community here,” says Perugini,

Vincents is an extremely approachable retail concept on Pelham’s main thoroughfare, Fifth Avenue. Unlike other tony New York City enclaves such as Greenwich, Conn., the town doesn’t drip with designer outposts or fancy restaurants. But don’t let first impressions fool you: Pelham is packed with potential fine jewelry buyers. BY KRISTIN YOUNG PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK LUND

Far l.: a bracelet and rings by Ray Griffiths (note the Crownwork detail); below: Eva Noga’s mismatched gemstone earrings

“I wanted a space that makes people feel like you’re in my home.” —Vincent Perugini

Inside the 10-month-old Vincents Fine Jewelry

accompanied by his dog, Cooper, a Cavapoo who greets customers like long-lost friends. “There’s an old charm to the town. It’s got beautiful older homes. About 90 percent of people here are either Manhattanites or from Brooklyn. It really brings a diverse crowd through. They have an urban vibe. That’s what I really liked about it.”

high-karat gold; and Australian-born Ray Griffiths, renowned for his signature gold Crownwork motif. “I love establishing designer relationships,” Perugini says. “I love hearing their stories and passions and what drives them every day and what makes their collections unique.”

RELAXED LUXURY

Perugini has no illusions about the precarious state of retail. So he also carries items such as candles and fine art by Nancy Landauer and Katy Garry, and this spring, he’ll be adding to his fashion jewelry selection, which currently includes Nathan & Moe and Lisbeth. The store also offers custom design, remounting, repairs, and watchmaking services—or, as Perugini puts it, #fullservice. This year, Perugini says he’ll turn his attention to beefing up his online sales. And he plans to hold focus groups to find out what his community wants in its local jewelry store. “I think retail is not dead yet,” he says. “Yes, you have to have an online concept and a [physical] storefront, but if you look at stores like Ylang 23 and Twist, they’re creating an experience.”

As for the decor, Perugini worked with a New York City interior designer to create what he calls “relaxed luxury”: “I wanted a space that makes people feel like you’re in my home,” he says. Gray hardwood floors, punctuated with a white rug and bench, have a calming effect, while a purple chaise brightens up the space just enough. The back wall is made of a cool textured metallic cork. Local artists have contributed several canvases to line the walls.

MERCH PARTY Perugini prides himself on working with designers who have a unique take on modern jewelry design. Vincents is the sole Westchester County jewelry stockist of Los Angeles–based Spinelli Kilcollin, known for its simplified yet masculine-meets-feminine styles. It also carries pieces from London-based Sweet Pea, whose whimsical, feminine designs start at under $350; Turkish designer Lika Behar, who expertly combines oxidized silver and JCKONLINE.COM

#FULLSERVICE

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MARCH / APRIL 2018

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MARCH / APRIL 2018

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK

PURPLE ART

This rich, royal color—particularly striking when paired with similar shades—is back in the spotlight thanks to Pantone BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

1/ Rose-cut oval ruby necklace with crystal in 18k white gold; $40,000; Butani; info@butani.com; butani.com

2/ Tulip ring with amethyst, green tourmaline, and rose-cut diamonds in 18k yellow and white gold; $41,000; Gilan; 917-213-0349; gilan.com

3/ Ring with purple sapphires in 22k gold and silver; $5,280; Arman Sarkisyan; 818-808-0112; armansarkisyan.com

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4/ Earrings with lab-grown rubies and ombré amethyst in 18k black gold and rhodium vermeil; £1,590 ($2,200); Anabela Chan; sales@ anabelachan.com; anabelachan.com

5/ Earrings with purple jade, black jade, sugilite, tanzanite, and diamonds in 18k rose gold; $9,900; Wendy Yue; 646-603-6946; wendyyue.com

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RED CARPET

GOLDEN GLOW

Elegant jewels and a parade of classic black formalwear (#timesup) marked the 75th annual Golden Globes

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Necklace in gold and diamonds designed by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co., 1980

Arbor leaf necklace in 18k green and rose gold and 19.2k yellow gold, with diamond leaf in 18k white gold; $19,370; Aaron Henry; 213-623-4228; aaronhenry.com

MARCH / APRIL 2018

Golden Cove necklace in 14k gold– plated brass; $398; Lele Sadoughi; 212-228-8422; lelesadoughi.com

GRETA GERWIG

UNDER $500

Look closely: Are those golden feathers on Greta Gerwig’s neck? How appropriate for the director of Lady Bird, which was named Best Motion Picture, Musical or Comedy. (Its star, Saoirse Ronan, also won best actress for her turn as the film’s namesake.) Of the 38-year-old Tiffany necklace, “the powerful and ethereal design was inspired by a bird’s wing,” Cristina Ehrlich, Gerwig’s stylist, told The Adventurine. The best part? The “wings” actually move while you’re wearing the piece, revealed Ehrlich. Pretty fly!

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GERWIG: MICHAEL KOVAC/GETTY FOR MOËT & CHANDON

UNDER $20,000

6 2/,9( 67 67( /26 $1*(/(6 &$ _ 5$+$0,129 &20

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RED CARPET

ZOË KRAVITZ

RICKY MARTIN

Jewelry-wearing men are, sadly, a rarity on the awards circuit these days. (Shoutout to Common, who can rock a brooch like no one’s business.) So we nearly choked on our Champagne when we saw Ricky Martin in a 25 ct. emerald. The star of The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story accented his all-black Dior Homme ensemble with a ring by Wilfredo Rosado for Muzo Emerald. Please let this be the start of a red-carpet trend! Timothée Chalamet, if you’re listening, you’d look fantastic in a signet ring.

MARCH / APRIL 2018

25 ct. Muzo Colombian sugarloaf emerald in 18k yellow gold with black enamel and diamonds; price on request; Wilfredo Rosado for Muzo Emerald; info@ wilfredorosado.com; wilfredorosado.com

UNDER $5,000

Ring with curved natural green jadeite jade tablet and natural green jadeite triangular side stones in 18k yellow gold; $4,000; Mason Kay; kris@ masonkay.com; masonkay.com

UNDER $5,000 Shipwreck Signet ring with emerald in 22k gold; $3,900; David Yurman; 212-752-4255; davidyurman.com

105 cts. t.w. Colombian emerald and black jade earrings; Lorraine Schwartz

UNDER $250

UNDER $75,000

Serenata earrings in resin with cubic zirconia and black rhodium; $179; Cristina Sabatini; cristinasabatini.com

Scroll earrings with carved jade, brilliantcut diamonds, and black enamel in 18k gold and platinum; $52,000; David Webb; 212-421-3030; davidwebb.com JCKONLINE.COM

MARTIN: PAUL ARCHULETA/FILMMAGIC; KRAVITZ: KEVORK DJANSEZIAN/NBC/NBCU PHOTO BANK/GETTY

While you were sleeping, Lorraine Schwartz was apparently bedecking everyone in emeralds: Debra Messing, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Issa Rae… But perhaps our favorite star-Schwartz collab: Big Little Lies’ Zoë Kravitz in 100-plus ct. emerald and black jade earrings. How obsessed are we with these lozenge-style drops? They might have surpassed our other favorite Schwartz emerald earrings: the 115 ct. pear-shape beauties that Angelina Jolie wore to the 2009 Oscars. Almost 10 years later, we’re still talking about Jolie’s jewels. We suspect you’ll be hearing about Kravitz’s for quite a while too.

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DESIGNER SHOWCASE

W (Top r.) 18k gold reclaimed 0.86 ct. t.w. gray and white diamond pendant necklace with 18- to 20-inch chain; $3,865

(Above) 18k gold natural rough green diamond and trapiche emerald ring; $8,360; Melissa Joy Manning; sales@ melissajoymanning. com; melissajoy manning.com

MARCH / APRIL 2018

SENSE AND SUSTAINABILITY After two decades in the business, Melissa Joy Manning unveils a fine jewelry collection imbued with her signature rough-meets-refined style BY KATHY HENDERSON

HEN DESIGNER MELISSA Joy Manning decided to expand her namesake line into fine jewelry, she did it with little fanfare, announcing the move last August via posts to her 28,000-plus Instagram followers. Since founding her company 20 years ago, Manning has trusted her instincts. She chose to work exclusively with recycled metals and responsibly sourced stones long before the industry moved toward sustainability. From the beginning, her popular hug earrings and hammered gold hoops have been handmade in New York City and Berkeley, in studios certified green by the state of California. Her website now generates half of the company’s in-house sales, plus worldwide e-commerce via Net-a-Porter and Ylang 23, among others. Manning’s blend of environmentalism and technological savvy helped her build and maintain a thriving brand, and she is convinced that the same principles can make her fine jewelry collection a success. “Part of moving into ‘fine’ is embracing my maturity as a designer,” she says, “working with vintage and reclaimed stones to create pieces that can be passed down and worn forever. I feel like I’ve been in the industry long enough to have built a customer base willing to support it.” Warm and unpretentious, Manning describes the evolution of her work while standing behind a display case in her Cobble Hill, Brooklyn, storefront. It’s charmingly cozy, with a tin ceiling and an exposed brick wall, in a neighborhood that supports mom-and-pop grocers as well as luxury retailers. On display are the beautifully simple pieces the designer is best known for: drop earrings, hoops in varied JCKONLINE.COM

Every�hi�g For Mo� From the trendiest new styles to the most enduring classics, we can help you find something for every mom.

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DESIGNER SHOWCASE

18k gold 5.19 cts. t.w. natural black and gray diamond triple-drop earrings; $9,680

“The baseline of what we do hasn’t changed in 20 years. I think that’s what sets us apart. There’s a brand integrity that people understand.” —Melissa Joy Manning

18k gold 2.52 cts. t.w. multicolor diamond forged collar; $6,930

MARCH / APRIL 2018

sizes and shapes, and delicate cuff bracelets with stones on each end. MJM Fine pieces, nestled in antique tins, include an oval white diamond in a split-shank setting, a cushion-cut pink diamond solitaire in rose gold, and a curvy gold choker dotted with colored diamonds. The range is striking: from $90 triangle studs to a $15,710 rose-cut diamond ring. Manning aims to please buyers on both ends of the price spectrum. “I started my business with $500, making whatever I could afford, and we’ve never forgotten the aspirational customer,” she says. “That’s why we still have $25 silver hugs as well as a $15,000 ring you can drool over. It might take you five or seven years to be able to afford it, but we want you to be part of what we do.” Proof of Manning’s belief in the proverbial high-low mix can be seen on her own arm, where MJM cuffs are part of a stack designed by her friends Polly Wales, Lauren Wolf, and Kaylin Hertel, along with a gold Love bangle from Cartier. After declaring that her customer “is not the person Tiffany or Cartier markets to,” Manning laughs when asked about the screw-studded bangle, a treasured 30th-birthday gift from her parents. “This bracelet is genius!” she cries. “I love seeing how different women style it.” Imagine, then, her reaction when the Cartier saleswoman warned that the bracelet would scratch if mixed with other jewelry. “I said, ‘Oh my god, you so don’t know me!’ ” Manning recalls with amusement. “It needs to be scratched. It needs to have a life. It needs to show that I love it.” A lifelong interest in history and art fuels Manning’s passion for pairing vintage stones in modern settings of her own design. “A perfect dendritic agate or black opal or pink sapphire is as valuable to me as a diamond,” she says, adding, almost as an aside, “and as a mom, I just want to create things that resonate in my life right now.” Manning became the mother of a baby boy two years ago, in her early 40s, an event that caused her to rethink her goals and priorities. A native of the San Francisco Bay Area, she spent her postcollege years in sales before a career counselor urged her to use her training in jewelry design, metalsmithing, and sculpture to debut her signature line. “I started my business when I was 26,” she says, “and when you’re 26, you’re ego-driven. It’s all about ‘I wanna have a JCKONLINE.COM

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THE LOOK

18k gold 4.86 cts. t.w. natural rough green, gray, and black diamond mini collar with drop; $8,065

18k gold 0.8 ct. t.w. multicolor diamond melee eternity band; $1,650 18k gold 1.54 cts. t.w. mixed color polished diamond princess band; $6,160 18k gold Canadian 1.05 ct. classic white solitaire diamond ring; $8,800

MARCH / APRIL 2018

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

brand, I wanna be in Barneys.’ I’ve developed some amazing professional relationships, but they no longer define me. What defines me are my family, my son, my friends, my customers, and finding balance in my life and my work.” As co-chair of the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s sustainability committee, Manning has led by example in creating timeless styles from 100 percent recycled metals. Her chain necklaces have two hooks for versatility; the pinhole clasps in her gold hoops “are engineered to function,” she says proudly. Speaking of those hoops, Manning doesn’t mind revealing the everyday objects used to create their shapes. “Our triangle hoop is three tampons duct-taped together,” she says. “Our square hoop is a paprika can. The baseline of what we do hasn’t changed in 20 years, and I think that’s what sets us apart—there’s a brand integrity that people understand.” And yet Manning is savvy enough to extend her line not only with fine jewelry but also a new Celestial Metals collection of crescent moon–shape rings and studs, lightning bolt charms, and triple circle earrings. The craftsmanship and clean lines of these mixed-metal pieces pop on the brand’s newly redesigned website. “We do our own photography, so we can control how things are presented,” Manning says, “and we’re careful to remain noncompetitive with our retailers unless it’s a basic metal piece.” American businesses, she adds, are finally catching up to e-commerce trends in countries such as Japan, where MJM jewelry is popular and one-click shopping from a smartphone is routine. For Manning, the goal is to maintain a bond with her customers, even those who live far away from her shops in Brooklyn and Berkeley. “The biggest trend right now is that consumers want to feel like they’re part of something,” she says. “They want to feel a connection. It’s all about telling a story, and we’re trying to be even more story-driven.” Whether she’s reworking a client’s heirloom ring or creating a wedding band from a string of colored diamonds, Manning continues to look for meaning in her work. “I always wanted to build a brand that had influence,” she says, “not just in terms of what people bought but how they think. I want them to appreciate what we’re doing and feel passionate about every piece they buy.”

18k gold trapiche emerald and diamond eye ring; $4,840

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THE LOOK

Q&A

Asks...

NIKOS KOULIS

From his home base in Athens, the celebrated designer pours his soul into reinterpreting 1920s jewelry style for the modern woman IF YOU’RE A fan of Art Deco jewelry, you’ve had your eye on Nikos Koulis and his classic-meets-contemporary designs for years. Never mind that now everyone and their uncle are making triangle rings; Koulis’ style makes a strong, and inimitable, statement. “Inspiration is random: A film, a building, scenery, someone’s movement can stimulate me,” says the Greek designer. “The common denominator of my collections is clean forms and fluid geometry.” You’ll also likely notice his innovative use of enamel, passion for the Big Three gemstones, and impressive architectural detail. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 40 Number of years in the biz: 11 Number of employees you oversee: 30 Family and pets: A stray dog, Dinos, who is now the king of the house. Describe your personal style: I always cherish classic lines and forms. I only select soft fabrics and light textures. I constantly look for intricate belts and scarves. First piece you ever designed: A bracelet with tapered white diamonds. Bracelets are still my favorite pieces to design! The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: My most MARCH / APRIL 2018

Oui collection tennis bracelet with diamonds, emeralds, and enamel

Oui collection earrings with diamonds, rubies, and enamel

recent “pride” creation is a one-of-akind necklace with 23 carats of white diamonds set in our patented translucent enamel technique. It was more than six months in the making. Best piece of advice you ever received: To be constantly alert! Worst piece of advice: None, really. First job ever: In my father’s workshop studying the craftsmen, making pieces with wire. How did you get started designing jewelry? It was an organic choice, since my family business is in jewelry-making, although I first studied literature before going to GIA. If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? I would be an architect or a floral designer. Favorite (or current favorite) gemstone: Emeralds eternally, because they are always imperfect, and rubies currently. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: My vintage Rolex and a yellow gold bracelet. On your desk right now: My loupe, tweezer, design sketches, a handwritten card from a close friend, the candle Nikos Koulis “One” in a ceramic vase with the scent I customized. On your playlist: NU, Kendrick Lamar, Greek folk songs. What a mash-up! Exercise regimen: Running. What did you have for breakfast? Coffee. Guilty pleasure: A dessert after dinner, when inspired. Drink (daytime/evening): Vodka. First website you check every day (not your own!): I’m only checking my emails. Scent: A mix of Santa Maria Novella and verbena from an artisan French parfumeur. It has become one with my body. How do you unwind? Listening to music and browsing contemporary artists. A must-visit spot for anyone traveling to Athens: Its center: vibrant, cool, controversial. Book you’re reading: Kahlil Gibran’s Thoughts and Meditations. Book you’ve been meaning to get to: Get back to Plato and Aristotle. Favorite movie: Io Sono L’Amore (I Am Love) [pictured above], directed by Luca Guadagnino. Personal motto: “Kindness. Ingenuity. Gratitude.” JCKONLINE.COM

FLOWERS: KNAPE/E+/GETTY; GREECE: LEFTERIS/ISTOCK/GETTY; ARISTOTLE SCULPTURE: PAUL SHARK/ISTOCK/GETTY; IO SONO L’AMORE: MAGNOLIA PICTURES/EVERETT

Nikos Koulis’ oneof-a-kind necklace with 23 cts. t.w. diamonds set in translucent enamel

It’s not just any diamond. It’s the diamond. Each Stuller Diamond™ is hand selected and goes through rigorous grading and screening to ensure our guarantee of integrity.

Find your diamond at Stuller.com/FindADiamond. Stuller.com

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HAIR: CARMEL BIANCO FOR ORIBE HAIR CARE/RAY BROWN PRO; MAKEUP: REGINA HARRIS; STYLING: MAGGIE MANN; MANICURE: RACHEL SHIM USING DERMELECT/ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; MODEL: ALLIE LEWIS/IMG; DRESS: ARAKS; GLASSES: MAX MARA

Sterling silver long Sequin Square earrings, $1,025, Me&Ro, 646-747-5779, meandrojewelry. com; large engraved Eye pendant on cord with button, $290, MQuan Studio, 646799-7633, mquan. com; one-of-a-kind 14k yellow gold and sterling silver vintage silver amulet, John Day oak fossil, rupee, dendritic agate,

and vintage tooth pendant 32-inch necklace, $3,800, half flat sterling silver necklace, $300, Melissa Joy Manning, sales@ melissajoymanning. com, melissajoy manning.com; Enchanted Forest cuff bracelet in sterling silver, $750, Michael Aram, sales@ michaelaram.com, michaelaram.com

FEATURES Photograph by Jean-Philippe Malaval

S TA C K E D , L AY E R E D , L O A D E D , P I L E D O N — S I LV E R L E N D S I T S E L F T O A S I Z Z L I N G - H O T MORE-IS-MORE JEWELRY LOOK GUARANTEED TO TURN HEADS AND WIN HEARTS

Photography by Jean-Philippe Malaval Stylist Maggie Mann

Oxidized silver, pearl, and diamond stick earrings, $2,200, Nancy Newberg, 310-508-8917, nancynewberg.com; double pearl pendant with adjustable heavy silver chain, $3,600, Ayesha Mayadas, 201-503-0073,

ayeshastudio.com; Meridian oxidized sterling silver cuff with 0.075 ct. t.w. diamonds, $810, Sarah McGuire, 773-327-8870, sarahmcguire.com; Sunburst cuff in 18k yellow gold and patina sterling silver with 5.86 cts. t.w.

fancy black diamonds and 2.84 cts. t.w. rose-cut diamonds, $23,450, Todd Reed, 303-442-6280, toddreed.com; Bhool bracelet in rhodium-plated sterling silver with 7.05 cts. t.w. diamonds, $4,000, Modern Moghul, 361-239-8799,

modernmoghul.com; Lea diamond, round tanzanite, oval emerald, and Coeur amethyst Boheme oxidized silver rings, $270–$650 each, Delphine Leymarie, sales@delphineleymarie.com, delphineleymarie.com

DRESS: ROSIE ASSOULIN

Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi

BLOUSE: WOLFORD

Waterton sterling silver earrings, $425, Ariana Boussard-Reifel, hello@marteau.co, arianaboussard reifel.com; Trilogy necklace in rhodiumplated sterling silver with 24-inch round box chain, $145, Elle Time & Jewelry, 469-2210866, ellejewelry. com; Offspring sterling silver bangle with charm, $350, Georg Jensen, 800-546-5253, georgjensen.com

71 Waterton sterling silver earrings, $425, Ariana Boussard-Reifel, hello@marteau.co, arianaboussardreifel.

com; Offspring link bracelet in sterling silver, $415, Georg Jensen, 800-5465253, georgjensen. com; Arpent sterling

silver stacking ring, $75, Marion Cage, 504-891-8848, marioncage.com

Costae 2.0 sterling silver earrings, $600, Louven, 818-5725439, louvendesign. com; Geogalactic pendant in oxidized

sterling with opal on silver chain, $335, Gem Steady, 859609-1083, gemsteady. com; Triad cuff in stainless steel, $300,

Miansai, 305-5703799, miansai.com; Naga ring in sterling silver, $495, John Hardy, 888-838-3022, johnhardy.com

MICHAEL BY MICHAEL KORS

(Opposite page) Multi Elipse 68 mm drop earrings with sterling silver handwoven long ear wires, $410, Simon Alcantara, 212-219-1749, simonalcantara. com; wide Moon and Stars sterling silver band, $275, MQuan Studio, 646-7997633, mquan.com; Torque small and medium sterling silver stacking rings, $70â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$115, Marion Cage, 504-8918848, marioncage. com; Bold Caviar statement ring in sterling silver, $395, Lagos, 877-9254305, lagos.com; Offspring ring in sterling silver, $120, Georg Jensen, 800-546-5253, georgjensen.com

DRESS & BATHING SUIT: ARAKS

(This page) Popcorn mesh statement Y necklace in sterling silver with 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds and black onyx, $895, Popcorn 12 mm mesh bracelet in sterling silver with blue topaz, $695, Popcorn 12 mm mesh bracelet in sterling silver with amethyst, $695, Popcorn bypass ring in sterling silver with citrine and 0.06 ct. t.w. diamonds, $395, Phillip Gavriel, 800-6220960, phillipgavriel. com; Onda Mixed Shapes Station silver necklace, $795, Ippolita, sales@ ippolita.com, ippolita. com; Fleur de Neige sterling silver and sculpted crystal ring, $199, Lalique, 800993-2580, lalique.com

76 silver boulder opal free-form two-bar cuff bracelet, $1,000, Melissa Joy Manning, sales@ melissajoymanning. com, melissajoy manning.com; (opposite page) Crescent Cove silver and 18k yellow gold Five Wave ring, $690, Tacori, information@ tacori.com, tacori. com; Triple band outer handwoven ring, $200, Bypass open handwoven ring, $150, Simon Alcantara, 212-219-1749, simonalcantara.com

JEANS & BELT: MICHAEL BY MICHAEL KORS; T-SHIRT: GAP; SWEATER: EQUIPMENT; SUNGLASSES: SELMA OPTIQUE

(Both pages) Contempo circle drop earrings in rhodium-plated sterling silver, $210, Frederic Duclos, 866-898-3636, fredericduclos.com; Demeter sterling silver necklace with aventurine and carnelian, $620, Pamela Love, sales@pamelalove. com, pamelalove.com; three-layer sterling silver Eye necklace with turquoise, $298, Sierra Keylin, sierrakeylin@gmail. com, sierrakeylin. com; 14k yellow gold and sterling

SPOTLIGHT

1860s

1880s

S I LV E ARN

U N VA R N I S H E D H I STO RY OUR CHRONICLE OF SILVER JEWELRY SPANS SEVERAL CENTURIES AND INCLUDES INTRIGUING HISTORICAL FACTS, EXEMPLARY WORKS FROM ICONIC MAKERS, AND INSIGHTS FROM THE MODERN-DAY DESIGNERS WHO ARE ELEVATING THE WHITE METAL TO AN ART FORM BY AMY ELLIOTT

1900s Danish silversmith Georg Jensen founded his workshop in Copenhagen in 1904, but his influence spanned decades, as seen in this 1947 necklace by protégé Henning Koppel.

1950s

FROM LEFT: EVERETT COLLECTION; BEN WITTICK COLLECTION/PALACE OF THE GOVERNORS PHOTO ARCHIVES/NEW MEXICO HISTORY MUSEUM, SANTA FE; COOPER HEWITT, SMITHSONIAN DESIGN MUSEUM/ART RESOURCE, N.Y.; COURTESY OF SIEGELSON; © AGIP/RDA/EVERETT COLLECTION; MUSEUM ASSOCIATES/LACMA, COURTESY OF THE ULRICH FAMILY, LICENSED BY ART RESOURCE, N.Y.; ROBERT K. LIU PHOTOGRAPHY FOR ORNAMENT MAGAZINE

1930s

OU JUST CAN’T beat the elegant gleam of silver against gray cashmere or buttery soft suede,” declared fashion editor Patricia Peterson in a 1974 edition of The New York Times. Highlighting silver jewelry from Elsa Peretti, Barry Kieselstein-Cord, and Georg Jensen, and a bracelet “handmade to perfection by M&J Savitt,” this tiny two-page trend report is one of many primary sources that attest to the metal’s popularity in the 1970s. By 1975, Peretti’s creations had arrived at Tiffany & Co., marking the first time silver appeared in the store’s jewelry department. The retailer’s embrace of the metal conveyed an essential fact to the era’s most sophisticated consumers: that silver’s “elegant gleam” was not merely the height of fashion, but something to be cherished and worn as a status symbol. As any art historian will tell you, however, silver first seduced humankind long before the Me Decade. “It has been prized by nearly all cultures with access to the metal since antiquity,” says Jeannine Falino, curator of “New York Silver: Then and Now,” an ongoing exhibit at the Museum of the City of New York. According to Falino and her colleagues, silversmiths who were in the business of crafting and retailing decorative items for the home were among the early European settlers in America. “The creation and use of silver adornments was an extension of age-old European traditions,” she says, adding that some of the silver objects made during the

1960s 1860s

18th and early 19th centuries included shoe buckles, brooches set with garnets or paste, and academic medals.

SILVER PIONEERS Between 1500 and 1800, Spain was the world leader in silver production; in fact, more than 85 percent of the world’s silver came from Spanish-owned mines in the New World, particularly in Bolivia, Peru, and Mexico. There were no known deposits of silver ore in North America; even so, Native Americans in the Southwest came to produce silver jewelry as a result of their dealings with the Spanish. “By the mid-19th century, nearly all the silver used in America came from coins or melted objects,” Falino says. New discoveries in the Sierra Nevadas would change all that. Following the 1859 rush of prospectors responding to the Comstock Lode, the largest and most famous American strike, the United States retained the title of the world’s largest silver producer until about 1900. And as a result, silver jewelry and fine silver flatware and decorative objects for the home became available to a growing middle class. From the early to mid-20th century, silver jewelry made in Mexico, and across the pond in Scandinavia, was having a heyday, and vintage pieces from these places are very much in demand today. In Mexico, Taxco is the most recognized mark, denoting the area in which hundreds of artisans have worked, and continue to work. Many of the most prized Taxco pieces originated from the workshop of the American silversmith William Spratling. “Spratling combined traditional Mesoamerican motifs with

Silver miners rushing Nevada’s Comstock Lode

1880s

A Navajo silversmith

1930s

A silver bracelet by artist Alexander Calder

1950s

Double Jaguar necklace by the American silversmith William Spratling

1960s

Silver and hard stone bracelet by Hopi jeweler Charles Loloma

80 1970s

1980s

1970s

Elsa Peretti and one of her groundbreaking silver designs for Tiffany & Co.

1990s

1980s

A silver necklace of concave-shape links by Robert Lee Morris

1980s

David Yurman Renaissance bracelet in sterling silver and 14k gold with gemstones

1990s

John Hardy Classic Chain Wave bib necklace in sterling silver

European design for a look that is now classically considered midcentury Mexican,” says Ariana Boussard-Reifel, whose vintage jewelry business, Marteau, is heavily focused on silver jewelry. In-the-know dealers and collectors tend to favor work by Taxco artists such as Margot de Taxco (born Margot Van Voorhies), Antonio Piñeda, and the families that founded Los Castillo and Los Ballesteros. The majority of jewelers are perhaps more familiar with the Danish master metalsmith Georg Jensen, who founded his Copenhagen workshop in 1904. Jensen’s distinctive style is as highly regarded, and as enduringly influential, as Peretti’s, and though one debuted 70 years earlier than the other, both have been able to sustain widespread appeal among multiple generations of customers. The house of Georg Jensen is still in operation today, and the newly minted jewelry and objets have the same sculptural, elegantly minimalist quality that made the early pieces such a hit with sophisticated American consumers in the post–World War I era. American artist Alexander Calder, best known for his mobiles, is also revered for his silver jewelry. He flourished in this medium in the 1930s and 1940s. Lee Siegelson, a New York City–based antique dealer of rare, museum-quality jewels, places Calder alongside the famous French jewelry designers Jean Després and Jean Dunand. “They’re really the pinnacle of rare, exceptional silver jewelry, along with a few Cartier things,” he says.

SILVER REVIVALISTS And if vintage Calder isn’t in the budget? “There’s currently a flourishing body of Native American jewelers in the Southwest,

most of whom use silver as the foundation of their work,” Falino says. “All of them are indebted to Charles Loloma, who led the way in the early 1960s with silver bracelets set with turquoise, ivory, and coral.” (Loloma, a Hopi jeweler from Arizona, is considered the father of contemporary American Indian jewelry.) Before David Yurman and John Hardy became household names in the 1990s, New York City–based designer Robert Lee Morris spiked a silver jewelry revival in the 1980s. After collaborating with fashion designer Donna Karan on a few runway shows, Morris told the Chicago Tribune in 1986 that he was going for an “icy, frosted” look to complement Karan’s spring line. “Gold is a really powerful punctuation on a dark surface,” he said. “Matte silver has a softening effect, a lighter feel.” Morris had been trying for years to develop a soft satin finish for silver and finally found that brushing silver’s surface with “millions and millions of tiny, tiny scratches” was the thing. Morris-signed pieces had cachet, but wholesale jewelry manufacturers saw an opportunity to mass-produce affordably priced silver hoops, cuffs, and “neck rings” with on-trend matte and hammered surfaces. Not to mention huggies, herringbone chains, and pendants set with semiprecious stones—remember those? The financial crisis of 2008 only burnished silver’s appeal, as designers accustomed to working in gold embraced the more affordable metal. (At press time, the price of silver was $16.73 per ounce. Even though it hit $48.70 in April 2011, the price still, yes, paled in comparison with its sister precious metal.) Today, there are a number of silver mines operating in Mexico; in Peru, Bolivia, and other South American countries;

2010s

2000s

FROM LEFT: NICK HUNT/PATRICK MCMULLAN/GETTY IMAGES; HORST P. HORST/CONDÉ NAST/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY SKINNER AUCTIONEERS/SKINNERINC.COM; COURTESY OF DAVID YURMAN; COURTESY OF JOHN HARDY; COURTESY OF DANIEL ESPINOSA (2); COURTESY OF ELIZABETH GARVIN; COURTESY OF MARTHA SEELY

2010s and in the United States and Australia. But with the exception of some of the larger jewelry houses, over the past five years it’s become industry standard to use refined silver, which is melted from old jewelry, silverware, and industrial goods.

SILVER DEVOTEES Regardless of its origins, fine silver jewelry is still a status symbol. David Yurman’s distinctive yet ubiquitous cable bracelet and John Hardy’s Balinese-inspired cuffs and Jaisalmer dotted hoops continue to be favored by women of taste and means, especially those who appreciate wearing brands with easily identifiable hallmarks. Silver’s affordability, however, means today’s smartest retailers are encouraging their smaller brands to develop bridge collections done in silver, and to introduce two-tone metal styles as a way to make their pieces more accessible to a wider, often younger audience. They’re also investing in talented artisan designers—those who shape, chase, and tumble the metal by hand and create custom finishes and patinas. Mexican jeweler Daniel Espinosa emerged from such artisanal ranks and now oversees a thriving factory in Taxco, producing fashion-forward silver jewels for a global audience. Meanwhile, his U.S. counterparts continue to find new things to love about the metal. “Silver is a wonderful material to experiment with,” says New York City–based designer Elizabeth Garvin. “It’s lightweight and very malleable. It also enables me to make larger, sculptural pieces with considerable strength, integrity, and longevity.” Martha Seely, a designer based in the Boston area, is equally keen on the metal. “Because silver is such a soft metal, it moves

with every stroke of a hammer and accepts texture, shape, and form so easily,” she says. “Sometimes it feels more like clay than a hard metal.” And modern silver jewelry doesn’t have to be a super-shiny “bright white.” Boussard-Reifel, who designs an eponymous line of contemporary jewelry, likes her silver pieces to have a “moonlike glow,” while Garvin feels that silver “just wants to be dark.” When Garvin first conceived her fine jewelry collection using silver, there was no question that it would be oxidized. “A piece of fine jewelry should not have a temporary quality to it, nor a look that’s not meant to last,” she says. “Oxidation is actually a natural process, very slow when left alone, but with chemistry the process can be sped up and controlled for consistent results.” Garvin’s devotees and her many supportive retailers love her signature look of white diamond baguettes set in oxidized silver. “It’s the contrast, and maybe the contradiction as well— formally understated, but visually dazzling,” she says. “But there are very real limits to the strength of silver, even when alloyed, so as a jeweler you need to know those limits to set precious gems securely.” Silver also allows for the creation of bold, oversize pieces— think Wonder Woman–worthy statement cuffs, dramatic pendants decorated with hand-cut and overlaid patterns, and repoussé brooches—for less money. “Compared to the cost of gold or platinum, silver is financially accessible to most people,” Seely explains. “I believe every woman should be able to afford to buy some of the beautiful jewelry she loves. And it should not have to be base metal simply plated with a whisper of fine metal on the top.”

2000s

Daniel Espinosa’s silver earrings, manufactured in his Taxco workshop

2010s

Elizabeth Garvin’s Cyclone bracelet with beryl set in blackened silver

2010s

Martha Seely’s Lyra earring in silver and 18k gold

POINT OF ORIGIN

I F Y O U T H I N K Y O U ’ R E H AW K I N G P R O D U C T S , T H I N K A G A I N . S TO R I E S A R E W H AT S E L L . TA K E A PA G E F RO M T H R E E O F J E W E L RY ’ S B E S T TA L E T E L L E R S F O R T I P S O N C R A F T I N G YO U R OW N.

OME OF THE best-known fine jewelry brands and retail entities— both established and emerging— blossomed into existence through a series of circumstances, events, and decisions that, woven together, form engaging narratives. These intriguing origin stories aren’t just fodder for the “About Us” section of your website. When wielded wisely, true tales can guide and enliven a company’s marketing, branding, and sales strategies. “People buy stories, not products,” says Andrew Lloyd, founder of Luxury Lloyd, a marketing firm based in Hertfordshire, England. “A good backstory is essential to any modern luxury brand.” Below are a few of our favorite jewelry origin tales from brands that continue to capitalize on their roots to differentiate themselves and inspire wellsprings of consumer enthusiasm and devotion. We hope their narratives— and a few tips from some bright marketing minds—will give you ideas on how to best leverage your own.

DAVID YURMAN’S MEETING OF THE MINDS Part of the appeal of New York City–based iconic jewelry brand David Yurman has always

b y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d

been its origin: an unbreakable partnership between husband-and-wife artists David and Sybil Yurman. They met when David, a sculptor, was working as a foreman in sculptor Hans Van de Bovenkamp’s Greenwich Village studio in the late 1960s, and Sybil, a painter, came in to apply for a job. “For me,” David recalls, “it was probably love at first sight.” Sybil inspired David’s first-ever wearable art pieces: bold designs that felt like natural extensions of his sculptures. And after a local gallerist admired one of his necklaces on Sybil and ordered up four more (which sold out quickly), the Yurmans became bona fide jewelers. The couple debuted Putnam Art Works in the 1970s, changing the name to David Yurman in 1980. Though his name is on the door, “the roots of the business are based on our collaborative partnership,” David says. “We never set out to make a business. It was always done the way we painted or did sculpture: a private moment, dreaming with our hands.”

“We’re in a business that celebrates relationships and love.” —Ellen Fruchtman

David and Sybil Yurman’s life in pictures; Renaissance bracelet in sterling silver and 14k gold with green onyx, chrome diopside, and Hampton blue topaz, $1,100, David Yurman, 212-752-4255, davidyurman.com

Kendra Scott recently sponsored 10 families facing terminal illness on a trip to Walt Disney World, in partnership with Inheritance of Hope.

The couple’s synergistic partnership and shared artistic background have been a part of the brand’s DNA for decades. They underscore the company’s digital and print marketing and advertising, and help define the kind of events and promotional initiatives it produces. This past holiday season, for example, David Yurman collaborated with paper artist Calvin Nicholls on the windows of its store in downtown Manhattan to create a fairy-tale forest scene evoking the upstate New York landscape where the Yurmans had their first date. The company also shares its complete history on its gorgeous website, on a page titled “Heritage.” The story of David and Sybil (and their son, Evan) is illustrated, magazine-style, with photos of significant people, places, and designs from its timeline. It’s not a long-winded history, but rather a series of easy-to-read blurbs that appear as you scroll down the page. (Fans of the brand will also find the story told through the lens of its most iconic design in the pages of David Yurman Cable, a coffee-table book published by Rizzoli last fall.) Stories like theirs “connect you to your customer,” says Ellen Fruchtman, a veteran jewelry marketer and

“I always come back to the words my stepfather spoke to me before he passed away: ‘You do good.’ ” —Kendra Scott

president of Fruchtman Marketing. “And the minute you connect with customers is the minute you secure their trust and loyalty.” Fruchtman warns retailers to steer clear of long and/or depressing family histories on their website. “We’re in a business that celebrates relationships and love,” she says. “You still have to wordsmith the story carefully.”

KENDRA SCOTT’S WILL TO GIVE Kendra Scott, the Austin, Texas–based jewelry designer and industry phenomenon, comes from a different, but no less resonant, place in her work. Scott debuted her first-ever business, The Hat Box, as a teenager. The store made and sold hats for women undergoing chemotherapy and made in-kind donations to cancer research. It was short-lived, but the retail venture solidified her path. When she opened The Hat Box, her stepfather, Rob, was battling brain cancer. “He taught me that the

Kendra Scott and her late stepfather, Rob; Nettie statement necklace in gold-plated brass, $140, Kirsten drop earrings with bronze-veined turquoise magnesite in 14k gold–plated brass, $75, Kendra Scott, 866-6777023, kendra scott.com

most important thing in life is to use my talents to do good in the lives of others,” Scott says. The brand Kendra Scott debuted in 2002 sprang directly from the entrepreneur’s desire to “share my love for fashion and also help others.” From day one, the company maintained a “never say no” policy on philanthropy. In 2016 alone, the business donated $3.5 million to charity, along with 75,000 pieces of jewelry to 3,500 local and national organizations. The brand maintains a page on its site titled “You Do Good,” in homage to the last words Scott’s stepfather said to her before he passed away. There, the designer presents her history and vision for her philanthropic jewelry company, surrounded by beautiful and inspirational full-color photos from various charitable events. That her page about philanthropy looks as glossy and highly designed as the rest of her site communicates just how crucial those efforts are to the company’s mission. Scott’s also famous for masterminding Oprah Winfrey–style “just because” gifting scenarios: In November 2017, the designer partnered with Southwest Airlines to hand out a small gift to each passenger flying out of Austin on a flight to Chicago (her hometown).

(PREVIOUS SPREAD) BLACK-AND-WHITE PHOTOS: COURTESY OF RIZZOLI FROM THE BOOK DAVID YURMAN CABLE; DAVID & SYBIL YURMAN: STEPHANIE KEENAN/WIREIMAGE

(THIS SPREAD) COURTESY OF KENDRA SCOTT AND SHAY

When the passengers deplaned, they were greeted by a Santa Claus dressed in the brand’s signature yellow who collected five huge Kendra Scott boxes that rolled off the baggage carousel. Inside the boxes were dozens of tiny boxes of Kendra Scott jewelry, which Santa handed out to passengers. The brand’s Instagram is peppered with philanthropic company news and ways to connect with consumers in that sphere. Leading up to Valentine’s Day this year, the company posted a call to its followers: “Tell us a cause dear to your heart.” All those who responded could potentially win a donation in their name. On V-Day, Kendra Scott selected 10 winners and donated a total of $2,500 to the causes of their choice. By always saying yes to philanthropic requests, the brand, which is now valued at more than $1 billion, has gained loyalty and exposure quickly. “I always come back to the three words my stepfather, Rob, spoke to me before he passed away: ‘You do good,’ ” Scott says. “I look at every decision I make as a designer and business owner through that lens.” Luxury industry marketer Lloyd stresses the importance of promoting “a story with purpose.” In Scott’s case, that purpose colors every facet of her

brand, sharpening its identity in a marketplace riddled with competitors. Lloyd also urges jewelry firms to ask themselves a single question when considering how to share their narratives. “Why does this brand exist in the world aside from making profits?” he says. “A good story emanates from a strong brand foundation. Without the latter, the former will have no real meaning.”

SHAY’S FAMILY AFFAIR Jewelry designer Tania Shayan, cofounder of Los Angeles–based Shay, was still in high school when she asked her mother, lifelong jewelry lover and collector Ladan Vahdat, to help her make a leather-and-links bracelet she was coveting. The pair figured it out, and liked the design so much, they took it to a local boutique owner, who ordered up a batch of bracelets on the spot. Several retail accounts later, they were in business as a trend-driven costume jewelry company. The mother-daughter team pivoted to fine jewelry roughly six years ago, and the collection has since become a go-to for stylists and starlets, and a favorite of jewelry fans who appreciate its stylish take on laid-back luxury. Shay’s beginnings as a motherdaughter operation are a defining part

Mother-daughter duo Ladan Vahdat and Tania Shayan; Essentials Gemstone Orbit ring in 18k rose gold with 0.99 ct. t.w. white diamonds and 1.2 cts. t.w. pink and 1.45 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, $7,980, Essentials Rainbow Link bracelet with 8.2 cts. t.w. multicolored gemstones in 18k gold, $15,750, Shay, 646-745-6831, shayfinejewelry.com

of the brand’s identity: “Every piece we make, I love and my mom loves, and we’re both going to wear,” Shayan says. “That’s what we always think about, and what gives us the [wide] customer age range we have.” The “About Us” section of Shay’s website features a large, professionally shot photo of Shayan and Vahdat, and shares the following: “Unlike other brands with a design team or single point of view, Shay is equal parts Ladan and Tania—two innately stylish women from different generations. While their aesthetic is remarkably similar, they enjoy working in tandem to ensure that every piece is perfectly wearable for women of all ages.” Additionally, the brand uses Instagram to showcase the duo traveling, doing trunk shows, and generally enjoying life in each other’s orbits. Social media is “perfect for this type of storytelling,” Fruchtman notes. And the genuinely warm relationship between mother and daughter differentiates Shay from its competitors. Appearing human, especially when you’re a luxury brand, can be a huge advantage in today’s marketplace. “A story about your family—there can be nothing more powerful to communicate in your marketing,” Fruchtman says. “It makes you real.”

W E D D I N G S P E C I A L

T O P

O F

THE MOST DAZZLING NEW ENGAGEMENT RINGS,

FROM DOUBLE-BAND DESIGNS AND ALMOST-INVISIBLE ILLUSION SETTINGS TO WHIMSICAL BANDS AND THE AGAIN-UBIQUITOUS THREE-STONE STYLE (THANKS, MEGHAN MARKLE!)

T H E

R O C K S

(Clockwise from top right) Double-band ring with sapphire navette in 14k yellow gold, $1,375, Sarah Appleton, 33-674-90-7068, sarahappleton.com; Nico ring with white diamonds in 14k rose gold, $1,425, Selin Kent, info@selinkent.com, selinkent.com; baguette diamond Double Spear ring in 14k white gold, $1,540, Anne Sisteron, 310-550-0716, annesisteron.com; Attelage ring with diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $8,630, Anna Sheffield, info@annasheffield.com, annasheffield.com

87 (Clockwise from top) Illusion emerald diamond pavĂŠ link ring in 18k rose gold, $4,935, Shay, 646-745-6831, shayfinejewelry. com; Cirque petite swing ring with diamonds in 14k gold, $13,675, Jane Taylor, 413-256-8404, janetaylor.com; Mosaic collection diamond engagement ring in 18k white and rose gold with pink diamonds, $14,410, Simon G, 818-500-8595, simongjewelry.com; 18k white gold mesh ring with 0.41 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,430, Djula, 646-869-9585, djula.fr

(Clockwise from top left) Morganite opal leaf ring in 14k yellow gold with diamonds, $750, Jennie Kwon, 213-221-7556, jenniekwondesigns.com; one-of-a-kind oval sapphire organic crossover ring in 14k yellow gold, $3,493, WWAKE, customerservice@wwake. com, wwake.com; Cleo de Merode cognac diamond halo ring in 18k yellow gold, $7,700, Polly Wales, 646-745-6831, pollywales.com; heart diamond vine ring in 18k white gold, $5,980, Kataoka, info@ kataoka-jewelry.com, kataoka-jewelry.com

ROCKS: MICHAEL BURRELL; EXOPIXEL; COPRID ALL FROM ISTOCK/GETTY

89 (Clockwise from top left) Fancy lavender sapphire and pink sapphire ring in 18k white and rose gold with diamonds, price on request, Omi PrivĂŠ, 877-OMI-GEMS, omiprive.com; Lantern engagement ring with Gemfields emerald and diamonds in 18k gold, $2,660, Michelle Fantaci, 866-301-MUSE, michellefantaci.com; large threestone Madison ring with Asscher-cut CZs in platinum, $4,095, Michael Bondanza, 212-869-0043, michaelbondanza.com; graduated bezel diamond ring in 14k yellow gold, $450, ZoĂŤ Chicco, 213-4891226, zoechicco.com

W E D D I N G S P E C I A L

R U L E S how and why to

O F c r e at e a s t r at e g y

S O C I A L around your clients’

E N G A G E M E N T marriage proposals

By Martha C. White social media marketing, flooding their Instagram feeds with smiling couples and sparkling rings—and as with any good romance, their audience is transfixed. “For better or worse, we’re in an experience economy,” says Pam Danziger, president of Stevens, Pa.–based Unity Marketing. “You’re not really selling product anymore; you’ve got to be able to deliver on experiences that are meaningful

to the customers,” she says, and “storybased retail” can be a key part of that.

WOOING THEM “People love a good love story,” says Scott Udell, president of Manhasset, N.Y.– based Two by London, the engagementand bridal-focused brand from London Jewelers, which has been highlighting customers’ engagement celebrations on

Setting the scene for the perfect social media– friendly marriage proposal

JENNA GANG/THELICENSINGPROJECT.COM

T’S NO SURPRISE that many of our best-known stories and literary classics—from Sleeping Beauty to Shakespeare—feature a wedding as a central plot point: The celebration of marriage is one of humankind’s most compelling and enduring stories. Today, savvy jewelers are transforming this timeless appeal by making clients’ wedding stories a key part of their

14k rose gold rings with diamonds; $1,000–$4,000 (center stones not included); Coast Diamond; 800-5235937; coastdiamond.com

“It’s organically happy stories that people love to read and hear more of.”

its social feeds and website for the past few years. “It’s organically happy stories that people love to read and love to hear more of—it’s like a feel-good moment.” At Single Stone in Los Angeles, the owners feature client engagement and wedding stories and photos on the store’s social media pages and blog. “We wanted to create more of a personal connection, and what’s better than seeing who the end product ends up going to?” says marketing manager Arielle Madilian. Beyond connecting with clients, retailers say sharing photos of customers does wonders for clicks. “If I post a picture of a bridal piece in our collection versus a picture of an engagement, the engagement one gets two to three times as many likes,” says John-Frazier Strickland, sales manager at Faith Jewelers in Jacksonville, Fla. His customers have been increasingly receptive to sharing photos and stories about their wedding experiences. “It’s that personal element—people love good news.”

POPPING THE QUESTION Want to feature happy client couples in your marketing? The first step is asking for permission. While this might seem daunting, marketing pros say the proliferation of social platforms, especially visually driven sites such as Instagram and Pinterest, in wedding planning has encouraged many people to be open to sharing their big announcement with the world. “When we sell an engagement ring, we ask them from the very beginning if they want to be featured on our social media, on our Facebook page, or on our Instagram feed,” Udell says, adding that about 9 in 10 people are happy to oblige. “They’re reaching back out to tell us how great the proposal was, and we hear the story of how they popped the question, and of course we ask for their handles if they want to be tagged.” Today’s culture of sharing means the answer, more often than not, is yes.

“Younger customers aren’t as concerned about privacy, and this is a way we can humblebrag for them,” Strickland says. “Everybody wants to show off, but if an individual does a post like we do, that can come off as arrogant. We can basically do that for them.”

SPREADING THE NEWS Most retailers who share client engagement or wedding stories say Instagram is the best tool for this tactic: A mix of tagging the couple, relevant hashtags, and a line or two of glowing congratulations is the “secret sauce.” Marketing experts also advise cross-posting across other social channels such as Facebook and Pinterest. Facebook allows for more dialogue, while images can go viral more quickly on Instagram, thanks to users searching for hashtags. While Instagram is the central platform for this kind of client storytelling, jewelers are spotlighting their bridal clients via other communication methods as well, such as store blogs, websites, or email newsletters featuring happily engaged clients. Along with a variety of outreach methods, the clients you feature should reflect a similar diversity. Yes, young heterosexual couples might compose the bulk of your wedding business, but jewelers who highlight customer stories say they benefit from featuring a wide swath of demographics, including a variety of ages, races, and orientations. “If you already have an idea of what you want your wedding to look like, it’s fun to see different types of couples,” Strickland says, adding that Instagram users love proposal imagery that evokes inclusiveness.

TO HAVE AND TO HOLD Jewelers say the practice of highlighting clients’ wedding stories pays dividends in recruiting new customers and retaining existing ones.

“A lot of people come to us because their friends referred them,” Madilian says. “It’s a lot of client-based referrals, both via Instagram or in person.” Featuring customers’ warm and fuzzy moments will help your business stand out, says Shane O’Neill, vice president at Fruchtman Marketing in Toledo, Ohio. Jewelers report that these posts spark an unprecedented level of engagement, he says: “In terms of real stories, I think that’s part and parcel of retailers trying to give a more personal side to the jewelry business.” According to O’Neill, “stories and real-life situations have always resonated on social.” Portraying real people and authentic relationships in your social media marketing will also help you retain existing customers. After all, the young adults who make up the bulk of the engagement and wedding jewelry–buying public are at a life stage where a great experience can make them a customer for the long haul, says Thomai Serdari, a luxury marketing professor at New York University. As Udell points out, being part of a couple’s wedding, a major milestone, offers jewelers an unparalleled opportunity to forge a lasting relationship. “It’s…a great way for the customer to keep in touch with us after their purchase.” With smart marketing and creative use of social media, you can continue to provide the experiences these young customers crave. When they feel a personal connection with your business, consumers become lifelong buyers who will look to you for help in celebrating the important occasions in their lives. “The younger consumer is used to participating in some experiential event that brings them closer,” Serdari says. “Storytelling resonates emotionally with customers because they have the chance to link that experiential factor that’s very appealing—not just to millennials, but everybody.”

FROM LEFT: TOM AND STEVE/GETTY; TEGRA STONE NUESS/THE IMAGE BANK/GETTY; PETER CADE/THE IMAGE BANK/GETTY

—Scott Udell, Two by London

75 inlay options

26 base materials

121 sleeve options

16 finishes

9 primary widths

21 profiles

713,512,800 possible designs Watch the video at www.lashbrookdesigns.com/jck

(1, 5, 7) COURTESY OF THE BRAVE COLLECTON; (2) COURTESY OF SINGLE STONE; (3, 8) MAUD WATERMAN; (4, 6, 9) COURTESY OF WIND & FIRE

MOMENTS F CHA RIT Y 1

1. Artisan making a necklace by The Brave Collection 2. Alden 18k gold pendant, $3,440, Camilla 18k gold pendant, $2,880, Sabrina 18k gold and silver pendant, $2,400; anabelhiggins.com 3. Love pendant in 18k gold with diamonds; price on request; anabelhiggins.com 4, 9. Crystal birthstone necklaces; $30 each; windandfirejewelry.com 5. Klaa-han silver chain bracelet, $95; thebravecollection.com 6. Charm bangles, $26–$30, green crystal bracelet, $36; windandfirejewelry.com 7. Signature cuff, $175, chain necklaces, $115 each, all 14k gold– plated brass; thebravecollection.com 8. Heritage collection Caroline 18k gold pendant; $6,750; anabelhiggins.com

HOW RETAILERS SHARE THE STORIES AND PURPOSE BEHIND JEWELRY WITH A SOCIAL MISSION

B y D a n i e l P. S m i t h

T PERIDOT FINE Jewelry in Larchmont, N.Y., bracelets and necklaces from The Brave Collection sit prominently near the cash wrap, rising up a walnut totem pole and inviting curiosity. Such prime positioning is not accidental, Peridot owner Dawn Hendricks confirms. After all, The Brave Collection has a compelling story to share. The jewelry line from designer Jessica Hendricks Yee— who also happens to be Hendricks’ daughter—features handmade pieces from underprivileged or disabled Cambodian artisans. In addition to providing artisans from the developing nation access to an improved quality of life, The Brave Collection donates 10 percent of its profits to combat human trafficking in Cambodia. “It’s great to talk about something beyond style and tie into emotion,” Hendricks says. “Those rich, human connections really matter in brick-and-mortar stores today.” With socially conscious brands like The Brave Collection gaining traction in today’s retail landscape and consumers showing a growing desire to engage with such businesses, jewelry stores have an opportunity to share human stories and capture sales with differentiated product that speaks to both beauty and purpose. “I think anytime a business shows genuine support of charitable efforts it benefits the business in the long term,” says Kristina Maiwaldt, marketing director at New Jersey– based Roman Jewelers. With stores in Flemington and Bridgewater, N.J., Roman Jewelers owners Roman and Sophie Shor and Lucy Zimmerman have a long-standing commitment to philanthropic causes. Here, JCK shares five ways these and other retailers are highlighting socially conscious jewelry to generate interest and, ultimately, sales.

MERCHANDISING AND SIGNAGE At Peridot, where the vast majority of pieces sit under glass, The Brave Collection’s tabletop totem display serves as a conversation piece. Hendricks says customers regularly ask about the jewelry line, which features pieces starting at $37. “In one breath, customers find out that it’s affordable and 10 percent goes to fight human trafficking,” Hendricks says. Last August, when Hendricks and her husband, Chuck, climbed Africa’s Mount Kilimanjaro, The Brave Collection crafted an exclusive $48 bracelet to celebrate that effort with 100 percent of proceeds directed to The Michael J. Fox

“The personal nature of these events has been particularly powerful.” —Corina Madilian, Single Stone

DIRECT CONNECTIONS Last October, Roman Jewelers created the Share Your Heart pendant. Customers could earmark sale proceeds from the custom-designed $100 piece to a charity of their choosing. “There’s always a need somewhere and a cause close to someone’s heart,” Maiwaldt says. While Roman Jewelers hosted an in-store event unveiling the pendant to community leaders and charities, the retailer has found its greatest success introducing the piece to any charity representative requesting a donation from the store. In addition to suggesting the jewelry as a unique way to generate funds, Roman Jewelers provides information the organization can share with its audience to build word-of-mouth buzz and spur more purchases. Likewise, whenever stores have a jewelry line or specific pieces connected to a particular cause, they might reach out to likeminded local organizations to introduce the jewelry and highlight the shared mission.

THOUGHTFUL EVENTS Single Stone, a 12-year-old jewelry retailer located in San Marino, Calif., has hosted trunk shows with Anabel Higgins Jewelry, which donates a portion of its sale proceeds to breast cancer research, diagnosis, and treatment efforts. Single Stone

frequently pairs those events with breast cancer–related causes, such as one trunk show event in which proceeds supported free mammograms at the nearby breast cancer center. Single Stone has also organized off-site events with Anabel Higgins designer—and breast cancer survivor—Annie Higgins, including private-residence trunk shows and “Meet the Designer” lunches. In addition to showing Anabel Higgins jewelry, the events frequently include formal presentations on a breast cancer–related issue, such as the importance of early detection or supporting scientific research. “The personal nature of these events has been particularly powerful,” Single Stone co-owner Corina Madilian says.

The Brave Collection founder Jessica Hendricks Yee with the company’s Cambodian artisans; Roman Jewelers’ $100 Share Your Heart pendant

STORY-SHARING STAFF Whenever any customer looks at a Wind & Fire piece at The Mystic Jewel, Davidson and her team share the brand’s story and social mission. “We make sure to communicate those highlights because the mission will really make a difference for some of our more socially conscious customers,” Davidson says. Ditto with The Brave Collection at Peridot, where Hendricks says staff members “go out of [their] way” to promote the jewelry line supporting human rights, personal dignity, and the universal concept of bravery. “This is something we are proud to support, so we’re not afraid to speak to it,” Hendricks says. “Most often, our sharing the story supports customers’ decision to purchase.”

DIGITAL SHOUT-OUTS On its social media, email blasts, and website, Single Stone frequently highlights Anabel Higgins Jewelry and the brand’s backstory. The store, for instance, has shared a video from Annie Higgins discussing her own breast cancer journey and the brand’s connection to breast cancer causes. Roman Jewelers, meanwhile, is currently creating a Facebook storefront for its Share Your Heart pendant, which will allow the store to further showcase its charity-focused jewelry. And Hendricks regularly spotlights The Brave Collection on Peridot’s website and social media feeds, sharing product-specific shots as well as imagery of people wearing the bracelets and necklaces. “As much as there’s a great story to this jewelry,” Hendricks says, “we have to remember that people need to feel strongly about how it looks, too.”

SHARE YOUR HEART PENDANT: COURTESY OF ROMAN JEWELERS; JESSICA HENDRICKS YEE AND ARTISANS: COURTESY OF THE BRAVE COLLECTION

Foundation for Parkinson’s Research. Hendricks created a personalized on-counter display featuring the bracelet and a photo of her and her husband, who himself was diagnosed five years ago with early-onset Parkinson’s disease. “This invited a deeper level of communication with our clients and the personal cause changed things for people,” Hendricks says, adding that bracelet sales generated more than $2,500 for Parkinson’s research. In North Carolina’s Outer Banks, The Mystic Jewel uses professionally produced signage provided by eco-sustainable jewelry brand Wind & Fire to highlight the company’s designs as well as its commitment to charities that help children in need, such as Guiding Eyes for the Blind and Autism Speaks. At locations in Duck and Corolla, N.C., the store also shares additional designer-provided material with purchases. “As these pieces are often gifts for other people, a little business card explaining the designer’s mission helps relay that information to the recipient,” The Mystic Jewel co-owner Cortney Davidson says.

21ST ANNUAL

MAY 28-31, 2018 SHOW HOURS Monday-Wednesday: 10 am-6 pm Thursday: 10 am-4 pm

Daily & Special Mirage Hotel "|-uŕŚ&#x17E; m] | ĹŞŃśĆ&#x201D; b]_|Ä´ Ĺ? omĹ&#x160;$_ďż˝uvĹ&#x2018;

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Consider Level Up an arcade for grown-ups. Located right near the entrance to Hakkasan at the MGM Grand, this bar on steroids has beer pong, Pop-A-Shot, foosball, pool, Pac-Man, and a variety of other games. There’s also a virtual reality golf experience—and, of course, gambling, including an old-school Sigma Derby. (mgmgrand.com/nightlife)

Technically, the pizza place next to Blue Ribbon in the Cosmopolitan hotel doesn’t have a name. But because it churns out incredible New York–style pizza (including slices of white!) and because it’s not exactly easy to find, most people call it Secret Pizza. If you go after midnight on weekends, expect a line. (cosmopolitanlasvegas.com)

Pyrotechnics, stunts, and magic tricks highlight the newest show in Vegas (it opened Jan. 24), a 90-minute spectacle that even jaded locals are excited to see. The show is the brainchild of European illusionist Joe Labero and the Fuel Girls, a fire, pyro, and aerial group from England. (caesars.com/ paris-las-vegas/shows)

LEVEL UP

SECRET PIZZA

INFERNO

DELMONICO STEAKHOUSE BAR

The bar at Emeril Lagasse’s steakhouse inside the Venetian is famous for its selection of whiskeys, bourbons, and scotch— there are more than 700 options in all. Ask to try Lagasse’s private-label Weller bourbon; it’s mash from the same distillery that bottles Pappy Van Winkle. (venetian.com/restaurants)

CHADA STREET

Thai street food is the star of the show at this new Chinatown eatery from Chada Thai & Wine’s Bank Atcharawan. Like all good Chinatown establishments, the place is inside a busy strip mall. Don’t miss the fish curry in banana leaves, garlic pork skewers, or the lemongrass peanuts. (chadastreet.com)

PEPPERMILL RESTAURANT AND FIRESIDE LOUNGE

Neon lights, fire-pit booths, and 64-ounce Scorpion bowls are par for the course at this circa-1972 restaurant and lounge, which is, to be blunt, a Vegas icon. Grab a seat in the lounge area to chase cocktails with 1980s music videos. Burgers on the restaurant side are surprisingly good. (peppermilllasvegas.com)

INSIDER LAS VEGAS

Y O U ’ V E WAT C H E D T H E F O U N TA I N S , Y O U ’ V E H I T T H E S L O T S , Y O U ’ V E C I RQ U E D U S O L E I L - E D . WA N T T O S H A K E T H I N G S U P AT T H I S Y E A R ’ S J C K S H OW ? C H E C K O U T T H E S E O F F - T H E - B E AT E N - PAT H S P OT S .

By Matt Villano Illustration by Kerry Hyndman

LUV-IT FROZEN CUSTARD

Dessert is a delicacy at this circa-1973 hole-in-thewall sweet shop, where customers line up around the corner for waffle cones full of frozen custard. Flavors always include vanilla and chocolate; other options change every week and are listed on the website. If you’re down to really splurge, try a shake. (luvitfrozencustard.com)

10.

Las Vegas’ oldest freestanding bar gets its name from the 1960s, when people used to pay to bring their beers to the roof to watch mushroom clouds billow from nuclear testing sites in the distance. In recent years Atomic has added a huge outdoor patio and a restaurant for light bites. (atomic.vegas)

Tucked below the casino in the Four Queens downtown, this old-school steakhouse hearkens back to an era when servers wore tuxedos and the most elaborate dishes were prepared tableside. At dessert, the bananas Foster is quite a show. (hugoscellar.com)

The history of Las Vegas is told through neon at this one-of-a-kind museum downtown. More than 200 neon signs sit in a lot called the Boneyard, which visitors can explore and experience only on an hourlong guided tour. Tours are best at night, when 11 signs light up. (neonmuseum.org)

ATOMIC LIQUOR

HUGO’S CELLAR

NEON MUSEUM

11.

NUWU CANNABIS MARKETPLACE

Recreational cannabis is now legal in Nevada, so naturally there are opento-the-public dispensaries all over Vegas. The NuWu’s claim to fame is that it boasts the only 24-hour drive-thru, which most taxis and Ubers are happy to hit. It also is two blocks from the Fremont Street Experience downtown. (nuwucannabis.com)

LAS VEGAS

JUNE 1–4

save the date 2018 Competition Deadlines: Submit Entries/Dallas: June 29, 2018 New York Drop Off: July 10, 2018

DESIGN. CREATE. SUBMIT.

#AGTASpectrum18

101

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

MARCH / APRIL 2018

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

THE VAULT CROWN JEWELS The trickiest part of creating

the skull was “finding which gemstone squares or baguettes would frame the headdress properly,” says Badia, daughter of Buddha Mama founder Nancy Badia. “We wanted to make sure it looked nice and full.”

SKULL & STONES The eclectic piece, set in 20k yellow gold, features a 61.62 ct. gray moonstone skull set with 2.44 cts. t.w. diamonds, 1.52 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, 0.25 ct. t.w. rubies, and 0.15 ct. t.w. turquoise. At press time, it was available for $28,400.

ROCK LIKE AN EGYPTIAN

THAI HANDS Badia estimates that

FINE JEWELRY BR AND Buddha Mama is known for making colorful, trendsetting designs that often incorporate time-honored iconography. This one-of-a-kind necklace, which renders a pharaoh’s skull in ultrafine detail, was the first piece created for a collection inspired by the rich symbolism of ancient Egypt. Dakota Badia, designer for the Miami-based brand, says the piece is one of her favorites by the atelier, and envisions its being worn “by someone funky, for sure.” —EMILI VESILIND

three to four craftspeople, including a master stonesetter, worked on the piece in a Thai factory. Buddha Mama typically collaborates with them via email.

JCKONLINE.COM

THE VAULT

GOLD HOT STOCK TIP

NEWS DAILY

BRACE YOURSELF Ariel Gordon’s original diamond-studded

Roman Holiday bracelet in 14k gold curb links; $2,695; arielgordonjewelry.com

A DAILY ROUNDUP OF

Roman Holiday curb-link bracelet was such a strong seller, the designer has since released an all-gold version—which is (naturally) more accessibly priced and infinitely more wearable. Lovers of quietly luxurious jewelry will wear the bracelet as is, but it’s a perfect base for charms as well. —EMILI VESILIND

OUR BEST STORIES DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX. CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

JCKONLINE.COM

OM DEPOT Japanese fine art was the inspiration behind the petite, arcing pattern that Manama, Bahrain–based TinyOm used for its new 18k gold Wave collection—which puts a decorative spin on the “daily gold” jewelry concept. TinyOm was founded by designer Virginie Dreyer, a former lawyer and lifelong yoga aficionada who, after moving from Paris to the Middle East, “was seduced by the art and craftsmanship of local goldsmiths in Bahrain,” she says. Wave pieces range from $430 to $8,000 and are available in 18k white and 18k rose gold. “The collection is a reminder of oneness and of unity,” Dreyer adds. “I wanted to create something that reflects my desire for purity, simplicity, and beauty.” —EV

Wave 18k rose gold diamond necklace; $1,380

Wave 18k rose gold wide band ring; $1,045; TinyOm; virginie@tiny-om.com; tiny-om.com

Wave 18k rose gold wide band cuff; $4,285

Wave 18k rose gold circle earrings with diamonds; $2,095

Wave 18k rose gold bracelet; $1,620

TOUGH-LUXE SHARP & SPIKY STYLES! SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE.

THE VAULT

DIAMONDS DIAMONDS

ON INSTAGRAM

HOT STOCK TIP

NEVERTHELESS, SHE RESISTED Because who says you can’t sparkle when you’re smashing the

Resist necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.23 ct. t.w. diamonds; $750; eriness.com

patriarchy? “After taking some time to reflect on the transformation of our country,” explains Eriness designer Erin Sachse, she created the Resist x Eriness necklace—a piece that makes a statement and contributes to a good cause. “I really wanted to do something meaningful and give back to a cause that is important to me,” says Sachse, “so I decided to donate [20 percent] of my proceeds to Planned Parenthood.” The revolution will be accessorized!

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

STAY IN THE KNOW.

@JCKMAGAZINE ON INSTAGRAM.

—MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Chimera Orbit ring in 18k rose gold with emeralds; $1,980

Planetary Ball pendant in 18k yellow gold with princess-cut diamonds; $1,780

See what's trending in jewelry this month, this week, this minute. Get connected on your phone or your desktop.

Ellipse huggies in 18k yellow gold with princess-cut diamonds; $960

Japa Prayer rings in 18k gold with fancyshape diamonds, $2,200–$4,400; Poe; 800-939-6068; poejewelry.com

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

RING AND A PRAYER When Venice, Calif.–based designer Danielle Birrittella began studying ancient mandala illustrations depicting the body’s chakras, she noticed that representations of each of the seven sacred energy points corresponded to a different fancy-shape diamond. Using the stones as a foundation, Birrittella, who also happens to be a classically trained singer, created a line of Japa

rings, named after the Hindu word for the repetition of a mantra. Every ring bears seven diamonds, or points, “representing each chakra as well as the seven days of the week and the cyclical way we move through our lives,” she says. While the prayer rings form the cornerstone of Poe, the elegant diamond and 18k gold jewelry collection she named after her

mother also includes bangles and earrings, with prices ranging from $500 to $6,500. All the pieces are united by the philosophy that informed Birrittella’s 1980s upbringing on a Hindu ashram, where prayer beads were considered essential to a mindfulness practice. “The rings,” she says, “are like tiny, beautiful tools.” —VICTORIA GOMELSKY

SWEET NEW PEAR-SHAPE ENGAGEMENT RINGS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/diamonds FOR THAT AND MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

INSTAGRAM.COM/JCKMAGAZINE

THE VAULT

WATCHES

104

PARTS & CRAFTS While jewelry is broken apart and melted

down when it’s no longer wanted, watches are less obvious candidates for recycling. The founders of Berd Vaye, however, beg to differ. The New York City–based company creates fetching sculptures made of Lucite filled with vintage watch parts. “We have to give them a second chance,” says Eduard “Eddie” Kurayev, a watch dealer who, along with fellow dealer Albert Akbashev, founded the company in 2014. Available in the United States since September, the collection currently includes just seven SKUs: small and large versions of a sphere and a cube ($2,900 for the small, $5,900 for the large); small and large versions of a skull ($2,700 and $5,900, respectively); and a large 26-by-26-inch frame that retails for $6,500. Each sculpture requires three to four weeks to produce, including gathering, disassembling, and cleaning the vintage parts. Further proof that the secondhand watch market is booming. —VG

Lost in Time large skull; $5,900

Horosphere large sphere; $5,900

C-47 Wing watch with Swiss automatic movement in 45 mm stainless steel case; $2,400; tockr.com

HOT STOCK TIP

TEXAN TIME Austin, Texas, isn’t a hotbed of watchmaking—yet— though that may change with the debut of Tockr, a new Austin-born, Swiss-made brand whose signature model is an aviation-inspired automatic timepiece with a sweet backstory. An homage to founder Austin Ivey’s grandfather, a World War II pilot who flew Douglas C-47 transport planes across the Himalayas, the C-47 Wing features a radial engine dial and a cushion-shape case that recalls the wing of an airplane. “It’s become our biggest seller,” Ivey says. “And that’s surprising to me because it’s such a different watch, not like anything else out there.” —VICTORIA GOMELSKY

MARCH / APRIL 2018

Time Framed large frame; $6,500; Berd Vaye; info@ berdvaye.com; berdvaye.com

SUPER-GLITTERY ACCESS SMARTWATCHES FROM MICHAEL KORS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/watches FOR THAT AND MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

22 – 27 March 2018

BASELWORLD.COM

Be there when the world’s most important watch and jewellery brands present their latest innovations and creations. BASELWORLD: THE PREMIERE SHOW

Four Seasons Ballroom Las Vegas

Thursday May 31, 2018

HONORING THE GOOD WORKS OF Bruce Cleaver, CEO De Beers Group Diamonds Do Good Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Professional Advacement Award

Rolex Diamonds Do Good Global Corporate Spirit Award

Government of the Northwest Territories Diamonds Do Good Responsible Government Award

Doing Good is Good Business To purchase tickets, tables, ads and sponorship packages visit:

WWW.DIAMONDSDOGOODAWARDS.ORG THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS: THE DE BEERS GROUP, CHOW TAI FOOK JEWELLERY GROUP, & SIGNET JEWELERS LIMITED SPECIAL THANKS TO THE JCK INDUSTRY FUND

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

MARCH / APRIL 2018

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

SHOW BIZ NEXT STOP: SMASHVILLE Music and mingling dominate the agenda at the 2018 American Gem Society Conclave in Nashville April 23–25

OSMOND: JASON LAVERIS/FILMMAGIC

T Liliana milgrain single diamond pendant in 18k yellow gold; $2,475; Hearts On Fire; 617-523-5588; heartsonfire.com

HE AMERICAN GEM Society is heading straight to the heart of “Music City” for its annual Conclave, which takes place April 23–25 at the Omni Nashville Hotel, located in the bustling downtown of Tennessee’s beloved capital city. “Nashville has a great scene, and to couple that with the premier educational event of the year—it’s going to be awesome,” says Conclave chair Alexis Padis of San Francisco’s Padis Jewelers. The Monday-to-Wednesday threeday date pattern—new for this year, in order to allow retailers to get back to their stores by Friday and Saturday— isn’t the only notable thing about the 2018 Conclave agenda. The event’s keynote speakers include legendary entertainer and entrepreneur Marie Osmond, former Philadelphia Eagles and New Orleans Saints football player Jon Dorenbos, and professional guitarist Mike Rayburn. “I appreciate how well-balanced the speakers are,” Padis says. “Marie

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

Osmond—she’s an entrepreneur, an actress, a singer; and on the flip side we’ve got an NFL long snapper, Jon Dorenbos, who was also on America’s Got Talent and is a magician. They are two people who are exceptional in what they do but bring unique perspectives to what we do as jewelers. And Mike Rayburn is more business-centric. There’s something for everybody.” American Gem Society CEO Katherine Bodoh—who calls Dorenbos “the JCKONLINE.COM

perfect mix of motivation, inspiration, and just a lot of fun”—also urges attendees to take advantage of Conclave’s numerous networking sessions. “The Mentor Mixer on Sunday evening is a must-do,” she says. “This is an opportunity especially for younger members or people new to the industry or expanding their careers to meet with potential mentors and grow their relationships.” Another can’t-miss networking event is the annual AGS Young Titleholders Trivia Night, which takes place at the Country Music Hall of Fame, next door to the hotel, on Monday. Sponsored by Boston-based Hearts On Fire, the event is one of Conclave’s biggest crowd-pleasers. “It’s a competition for what’s the motivator to go to Conclave: networking or education?” Bodoh says. “It’s all about the AGS community. That feeling of being with your peers and learning the best hands-on education. That’s why people need to attend.”

Iconic entertainer Marie Osmond will open Conclave with a midday keynote speech on April 23.

APRIL 14-16, 2018

eâ&#x20AC;? MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER

MIAMI BEACH, FL

A unique and intimate event for the jewelry industry featuring on-trend merchandise for the summer selling season.

R E G I ST E R TO AT T E N D O R A P P LY TO E X H I B I T AT:

JISSHOW.COM/APRIL Contact JIS directly at +1 (800) 840-5612 or at jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com S TAY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S S H O W

109

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

MARCH / APRIL 2018

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME UP TO SPEED

Five online hacks to make a brick-and-mortar retailer’s life infinitely more efficient

PEOPLEIMAGES/E+/GETTY

BY EMILI VESILIND

HERE’S NOTHING EASY about running an independent retail store. But if you’re ready to embrace new tech tools designed to provide shortcuts for time-intensive tasks, a future filled with slightly less busywork and physical labor awaits. Read on for five of our favorite digital hacks.

Instacart and Blue Apron and stop sending your employees to Costco for paper towels and hand soap. Sign up for Amazon’s Subscribe & Save service, and arrange for regular deliveries of everything from trash bags to glass cleaner. It’s a near-effortless way to keep your store’s supplies stocked.

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGEMENT

STAMPS.COM

Social strategy and management are major commitments for small-business owners. Hiring or outsourcing social media consultants is an option, but often too pricey for single-store proprietors. Enter social media management systems. These low-cost online-based services (Buffer and Hootsuite are two of the most popular) won’t write your social content for you, but they will make managing your networks, scheduling posts, and tracking post performance a faster, more organized affair.

If your post office jaunts are frequent, consider a Stamps.com account. The online service offers access to all of the U.S. Postal Service’s mail classes and services, including certified mail. Subscribers buy and print postage on their own computer and printer, and receive a free smart scale to weigh parcels.

AMAZON SUBSCRIPTIONS Take a page from fans of time-saving grocery delivery services such as

PAPERLESS BILL-PAYING There are scores of digital bill trackers (Mint being perhaps the most popular) to help individuals and small-business owners manage monthly costs. And for good reason—they make bill paying a snap. Make sure you choose a payer that can be accessed on mobile and JCKONLINE.COM

on your desktop, so you can pay bills from the store, your home, or a watch show in Switzerland. Another popular bill-paying hack: Download the official smartphone app for every bill you pay, and organize those apps on a single page of your smartphone. Then, enable Touch ID for each—allowing you to pay all your monthly bills in minutes.

WHATSAPP BUSINESS Messaging service WhatsApp, which lets you chat one-on-one or with groups through an easy-to-use smartphone app, is now also a tool for business. With the recently released WhatsApp Business, you can set up a proper corporate presence on WhatsApp, so you can communicate quickly and casually with clients without the risk of sending them a family photo or a friend’s text. The app also allows you to respond to messages from your computer’s browser. And it connects to landlines, so your techsavvy customers can message you at your store’s main number.

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JCKONLINE.COM. The industry’s go-to online source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry. — JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.

GEMCAM Retailing loose gemstones can be challenging because consumers have to rely entirely on a salesperson’s assessment of cut and quality—and modern shoppers crave transparency. The GemCam Imaging System, distributed exclusively by Stuller, lets shoppers see a gem’s attributes for themselves. Through the system’s smartphone app, jewelers can take highdefinition, 360-degree photos and videos of a gemstone, which can be saved and shared, during the actual sale. The setup features built-in LED white lighting, auto rotation, and standard (10x) loupe magnification, so your clients can get up close and personal with their gems of choice. ($499; stuller.com) —EV

The GemCam Imaging System can zoom up to 40x, which is on par with a microscope’s magnification.

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

NYSW MANHATTAN New York Standard Watch (NYSW) was founded in 1885 as an upscale pocket-watch manufacturer but shuttered during the Great Depression. Horologists revived the house in 2006 as a maker of hybrid smartwatches for men who prefer the look and feel of analog timepieces to rubbery step counters. NYSW’s Manhattan smartwatch—one of a trio of connected watches the brand recently released—does most things a Fitbit can do but looks a thousand times better with a blazer. —EV

What we liked: The device feels genuinely good on the wrist; the watch is lightweight and the leather strap is soft and pliable. It features a Japanese movement with a Norwegian core CPU that powers precise fitness tracking, notifications through haptic vibrations, global time syncing, and an analog time display.

What we didn’t like: The Manhattan is aptly named—it’s a stately, traditional-looking watch. So much so in fact that it may not possess enough aesthetic innovation to appeal to young, fashion-forward consumers.

Best feature: NYSW’s new watches, including the Manhattan, are among the first wearables made to connect directly to iPhones’ Apple Notification Center Service, which makes the integration of the watch’s tools into daily life a little more seamless. ($358; nyswwatch.com) —EV

FIT TO HOST JEWELRY DESIGN & MANUFACTURING SYMPOSIUM! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

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www.hooverandstrong.com 800-759-9997

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Hoover & Strong 10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com

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Gold Craft Jewelry Corp. 640 S. Hill St., Suite 650 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8673 Fax: 213-623-4673 Email: gc.mfg@att.net

Hoover & Strong has over 650 die-struck bands including hundreds of new classic, fancy, multi-tone, and diamond styles! All bands are Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our products.

Exquisite 14k gold frames for coins. Frames for Credit Suisse, American eagle, peso, Canadian maple, and more. Frames in plain and rope are designed to fit all size coins. Teardrop frame comes in 1/10 ounce, 1/4 ounce, 1/2 ounce, and 1 ounce.

Phillip Gavriel

RDI Diamonds Inc.

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: phillip@royalchain.com Website: phillipgavriel.com

2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768, ext. 174 Email: slape@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com

For Royal Chain’s 40th anniversary, Phillip Gavriel introduces his best-selling Popcorn collection for the first time in gold. Each piece is handcrafted in Italy and features diamonds and natural gemstones.

Artistry, Ltd. 8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: info@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com Artistry’s Pointe diamond and semiprecious necklaces are available in 14k rose gold and pink amethyst; 14k white gold and Swiss blue topaz; and 14k yellow gold and citrine. MSRP: $1,285–$1,400, which includes 18-inch chain.

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True Cushion Brilliant™ diamonds appear larger because less of the diamond is cut, maximizing carat weight. They are so rare, desirable, and popular that high-end stores prefer them and only GIA identifies them.

Christopher Designs 50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@crisscut.com Website: christopherdesigns.com Christopher Designs impeccably blends Old World luxury and style with modern technology to create exclusive designs that include our patented Crisscut® and L’Amour Crisscut diamonds. When placed side by side with our competition, the difference is truly clear.

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TraxSALES 6830 N. Eldridge Parkway, Suite 302 Houston, TX 77041 Tel: 888-534-1253/713-466-7177 Email: sales@traxsales.com Website: traxsales.com TraxSales.com has been providing retail sales force automation and customer relationship management for 21 years. Learn your accurate closing ratios and liberate your sales team to be the best they can be. Happy salespeople = happy customers! Call 713-466-7177.

Costar Imports, Inc. Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com This engagement ring (Style R12648) with 0.85 ct. t.w. diamonds catches eyes with its unique octagonal halo and is set up to hold a 6 mm round diamond. The band has 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds. MSRP: Ring $4,200; band $1,650

Ed Levin Jewelry Evocateur Tel: 203-956-9705 Email: info@evocateur.com Website: evocateurstyle.com This mosaic turtle cuff from Evocateur combines unique art with 22k gold leaf and enamel. A bold fashion statement, it is 1.5 inches wide and made by hand in the United States. MSRP: $338

52 West Main St. Cambridge, NY 12816 Tel: 518-677-8595 Fax: 518-677-8597 Email: info@edlevinjewelry.com Website: edlevinjewelry.com Soft curves are inspired by deep sleep on a comfy bed. A hidden message, “Dream,” displays when the bracelet swings open to put on. Hand forged in the USA in sterling silver.

Martin Flyer EFFY 1-877-ASK-EFFY Website: effyjewelry.com EFFY has taken a girl’s best friend and made it uniquely ours. From curved classics to modern takes, we’ve got something to suit and sparkle—a current favorite being this hand-set, coral-inspired ring in 14k gold. MSRP: $13,725

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70 W. 36th St. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 800-223-0330 Fax: 212-768-0124 Email: yyoung@martinflyer.com Website: martinflyer.com “The Quality You Expect, the Personal Service You Deserve.” Since 1945, this belief has remained our cornerstone through three generations of outstanding service, craftsmanship, and delivery of heirloom-quality jewelry at competitive prices.

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Gabriel & Co.

Arch Crown Inc.

545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: mjgonzalez@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: orders@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com

A delicate arc of gold beads, a radiant mini-cluster of diamonds, a chain of perfect gold circles: This is how Gabriel interprets Bujukan, the Balinese act of persuasion achieved by a subtle wink, a gentle touch, that one perfect word spoken in a whisper. When you’re irresistible, why shout?

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As a merchandising aid or advertising vehicle, custom tags and labels communicate your store’s unique identity and let the recipient know where the gift came from. Once out of the store, Arch Crown tags and labels act as your most cost-effective advertising medium.

Stuller Inc. Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: info@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

Le Vian’s Spring 2018 Color of the Year, “Nude™,” offers a selection of skin sparkling styles like this bi-color 14k Vanilla Gold® and Honey Gold™ ring and pendant necklace set with natural color Nude Diamonds™.

Stuller is your gemstone source. From sourcing and receiving, to quality assurance and accurate grading, to matching and fulfilling, our team of trained professionals delivers the best value in the industry. Visit stuller.com/gemstones.

Le Vian®

Allison-Kaufman Co. 7640 Haskell Ave. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Tel: 818-373-5100/800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150 Email: info@allisonkaufman.com Website: allisonkaufman.com These beautiful 14k white gold and diamond earrings are a real miracle. Available in five diamond weights, from 0.25 ct. t.w. to 2 cts. t.w.

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Shy Creation 631 S. Olive St. Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Kate collection diamond pavé chain bracelet. Visit us at JCK LUXURY in Las Vegas to view the entire collection, or call today to become a brand partner.

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Midas Chain 50 McDermott Place Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 877-643-2765 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com

Vibhor 590 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-869-5060 Email: peter@vibhorgems.com Website: vibhorgems.com

Script Love Necklace by Midas Chain. This beautiful 14k yellow gold script love comes with an adjustable chain for ultimate versatility. Midas has even designed this elegant piece with a diamond accent to accentuate the styling. MSRP: $591

Vibhor is the best option for Private Label in the most important category: Core Diamond Essentials. Featuring U.S. manufacture, custom displays, in-store training, sales incentives, and rebalance privileges, it is a complete turnkey brand for your store.

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group

DA Gold

24 Jewelers Park Dr. Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-819-1111 Fax: 212-730-5706 Email: da@dagoldproducts.com Website: dagoldproducts.com

Businesses like yours have trusted Jewelers Mutual for support since 1913. Contact us to learn how we can help you become safer, more secure, and more successful.

Featured are our new Italian 18k gold cuffs adorned with 0.3 ct. t.w. sparkling diamonds. These bangles have exquisite style and are fashion forward. Quality, artful workmanship, and excellent customer service are the foundation of DA Gold.

CrownRing

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc.

Montreal Tel: 866-214-7464 Email: info@crownring.com Website: crownring.com

631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com

CrownRing Bridal House is a name that has come to represent excellence in bridal jewelry. Under this label rest five defining brands: CrownRing, Carlex, Bleu Royale, Torque, and Noam Carver. CrownRing and its divisions continue to lead the pace by creating award-winning and captivating jewelry.

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Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

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JWL.com Inc. Andréa Candela Tel: 888-314-5998 Website: andreacandela.com Labyrinths have been used for protection, pleasure walks, and meditative journeys. Anticipation of what lies around the corner is a charm of labyrinths of all kinds. Lose yourself in the enigmatic pieces of the Laberinto collection.

Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: info@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Put Stuller’s Chain Selling System to work for your store. The system features 28 18-inch live chains in four best-selling styles—cable, rope, wheat, and box—at different widths and metal qualities, so you’ll have something for every shopper. Visit stuller.com/chainkit to learn more.

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.

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23024 Conde Drive Valencia, CA 91354 Tel: 310-922-4757 Fax: 310-922-4757 Email: larry@accountec.com Website: jwl.com JWL is the world’s cryptocurrency designed for, and by, leaders in the global jewelry industry. Visit www.startengine.com/jwlcoin to learn how JWL’s technology can help your business evolve.

Lashbrook 131 E. 13065 S. Draper, UT 84020 Tel: 888-252-7388 Fax: 801-352-7236 Email: marketing@lashbrookdesigns.com Website: lashbrookdesigns.com Today’s customers expect more. We love that! At Lashbrook, we create custom and award-winning styles using precious and alternative metals, stones, and other exotic materials. Now you can give your customers exactly what they want.

Shy Creation 631 S. Olive St. Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Round diamonds (0.35 ct. t.w.) brilliantly set over seven graduated gold stars perfectly align to create this charmed diamond necklace. Easy to pair with Shy’s yellow gold Diamond Star ascendant drop earrings.

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ADVERTISING

INDEX

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AGTA pg. 100 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162

EVOCATEUR pg. 21 Website: evocateurstyle.com Phone: 203-820-8786

Alex Velvet pg. 37 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900

Gabriel & Co. pg. 19 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400

Allison Kaufman Company pg. 61 Website: allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908

GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250

American Gem Society pg. 49 Website: ags.org Email: membership@ags.org Toll-Free: 866-805-6500

GLDA pg. 97 Website: glda.com

Andréa Candela pg. 66 Website: andreacandela.com Email: info@andreacandela.com Artistry Ltd. pg. 26 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 A.R.Z. Steel pg. 38 Website: arzsteel.com Email: info@arzsteel.com Phone: 514-489-8668 Fax: 514-489-6929

HH Gold, Inc. pg. 28 Website: HHgoldinc.com Email: HHgoldinc@gmail.com Phone: 818-348-7080 Toll Free: 800-262-6106 Fax: 818-348-7085 Hoover & Strong pg. 111 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Baselworld pg. 105 Website: baselworld.com

Italgem Steel pg. 24 Website: Italgemsteel.com Email: sam@italgemsteel.com Phone: 514-388-5777 Toll-Free: 855-ITALGEM Fax: 514-384-5777

Christopher Designs pg. 33 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970

JCK Events pg. 8–9, 112 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626

Costar Imports pg. 31 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR

Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 47 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411

CrownRing pg.Back Cover Website: crownring.com Email: info@crownring.com Phone: 514-381-1589 Toll-Free: 866-214-7464 Diamond Empowerment Fund pg. 106 Website: Diamondsdogoodawards.org E.L. Designs pg. 29 Website: edlevinjewelry.com Email: info@edlevinjewelry.com Phone: 518-677-8595 Toll-Free: 800-828-1122 Fax: 518-677-8597 Toll-Free Fax: 888-677-8597 Effy pg. Gatefold Cover Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY

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JIS Show pg. 108 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 JWL pg. 25 Website: JWL.com Email: info@jwl.com Phone: 866-545-9871 Kim International pg. 23 Website: kimint.com Email: sales@kimint.com Toll-Free: 800-275-5555 Lashbrook pg. 93 Website: lashbrookdesigns.com/damascus Toll-Free: 888-252-7388 Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN

Martin Flyer pg. 13 Website: martinflyer.com Email: info@martinflyer.com Phone: 212-840-8899

Tasha R pg. 6–7 Website: tashar.com Email: info@tashar.com Toll-Free: 888-999-1597

MDJ Advantage pg. 36 Website: mdjadvantage.com Email: Dm@mdjadvantage.com Toll-Free: 888-500-4311 Toll-Free Fax: 877-487-2104

Thorsten Jewelry pg. 30 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com

Midas pg. 15 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 52 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd.pg. 57 Website: peterlam.com.hk Email: kenter@peterlam.com.hk Phone: +852 23555897 Fax: +852 27641328 Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 55 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Rand & Paseka pg. 39 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 44 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rembrandt Charms pg. 41 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811 Royal Chain Group pg. 2–3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Samuel B. pg. 48 Website: SamuelB.com Email: info@SamuelB.com Phone: 516-466-1826 Toll-Free: 855-SAMUELB Shy Creation Inc. pg. 4–5 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 Stuller Inc. pg. 59, 65 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655

TraxSALES.com pg. 34 Email: Dave@TraxSALES.com Phone: 713-466-7177 Toll-Free: 888-534-1253 Fax: 713-466-7392 Umicore pg. 40 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 VIBHOR pg. 43 Website: vibhorgems.com Phone: 617-308-1580 Wilkerson pg. 27 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333 World’s Gold & Diamonds/ Low Cost Leader/Low Cost Luxury pg. 6–7 Website: lowcostleader.com Email: wgd@lowcostleader.com Phone: 713-995-7033 Toll-Free: 866-8-LOW-COST Fax: 713-995-0756 Zen Diamond pg. 63 Website: zendiamond.com Phone: 201-842-7698

Copyright ©2018 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 149 No. 2 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/ August, September/October, and November/ December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

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THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

Twiggy made such a splash in 1967 that she inspired board games, lunchboxes, paper dolls—even a Twiggy Barbie

EMBLEMATIC OF LONDON’S Swinging ’60s style scene, British model Twiggy (real name Lesley Hornby) became an overnight sensation in the United States in 1967, thanks to three covers and fashion spreads for Vogue, including this iconic image by Bert Stern. Here, she shows off the oversize timepieces of the era, donning a gray suede Giorgio di Sant’Angelo dress with circular hardware down to there adorned by watches from Movado, GirardPerregaux, Glycine and IWC Schaffhausen, plus a Patek Philippe watch with a Tiffany bracelet on her wrist. Vogue called her “a heroine for her time.” A stark contrast to the hourglass figures of the ’50s, Twiggy perfectly represented ’60s minimalist fashion, boyish shapes, and mod jewelry. (Her red plastic earrings are also by Sant’Angelo.) “What happened to me in the ’60s was amazing, but I almost had nothing to do with it,” she told Marks & Spencer, for which she currently designs clothing and beauty collections. “I learned to model and I loved it.” —KRISTIN YOUNG

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BERT STERN/CONDÉ NAST VIA GETTY IMAGES

RIGHT ON MOD

At GIA, gems endure even more pressure. Science and discovery underpins everything we do. Since 1931, the Gemological Institute of America has been unearthing the truth about gems and creating industry standards. With unwavering commitment to accurate and unbiased methodologies, our dedicated research staff advances the knowledge the industry and consumers need to protect confidence in gems and jewelry. Our discoveries are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls. The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology

Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu

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