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2020 SANDS CONVENTION CENTER, LAS VEGAS J C KO N L I N E . C O M / L AS V E GAS
JCK LAS VEGAS Events | Opportunities | Promotions | Special Advertising Section
JCK Show & Tell
Congratulations
to the JCK Las Vegas 2019 Design Center Editor’s Choice Award Winners TH E JCK D E S I G N CE NT E R E D I TO R’S CHOI C E AWA R D HON OR S J C K D E SI G N C E N T E R E XHI B I TOR S W HO BR EAK THE BO UN DAR IE S O F INNOVAT I O N A ND O RI G I NA LI T Y, COM B I N I N G N E W T R E N D S A N D C L ASSI C I D E AS. T HI S AWA R D HAS BEE N C R AFTE D TO C ELEBR ATE IM AGINAT IO N A ND H O NO R E XCE LLE NC E I N C R A F TSM A N SHI P. D E SI G N E R S SU B M I T T E D T HE P I E C E THEY FE EL BE ST R E P R ESEN TS T HEIR BR AND. E D I TO RS FRO M BOT H CO NS U M E R A N D T R A D E P U B L I CAT I ON S R E V I E W E D T HE P I E C E S P R E - SHOW & VOT ED FO R THE IR TO P SELECTIO NS . O NS I T E , T H E TO P 3 I N E ACH CAT E G ORY— R E SI D E N T & R I SI N G STA R — HA D T HE OP P ORT UN IT Y TO D ISP LAY THE IR P IE C E S IN PE R SON I N T HE P R E SS OF F I C E F OR T HE D U R AT I ON OF J C K .
Rising Star Winners
Resident Winners
A DESIGNER WHO’S BEEN IN THE BUSINESS FIVE YEARS OR LESS
ESTABLISHED DESIGNER BRANDS
Winning design from Emilia Le Karrie
Winning design from Lark & Berry
EMILIA LE KARRIE 1 ST PLACE
OLIVIA B. 2 ND PLACE
JAUME LABRO MOKUME
LARK & BERRY
3 RD PLACE
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what’s next?
J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 1 9 M AY H AV E PA S S E D , B U T W E ’ R E A LWAY S P L A N N I N G A H E A D ! M A R K YO U R C A L E N D A R S F O R J C K T U C S O N 2 0 2 0 , W H I C H W I L L B E H E L D F R O M F E B R U A R Y 5 F E B R U A R Y 8 , AT T H E J W M A R R I O T T T U C S O N S TA R PA S S R E S O R T & S PA .
L E A R N M O R E A B O U T J C K L A S V E G A S : J C KO N L I N E . C O M / L A S V E G A S
Meet JCK’s 2019 Rising Stars
The Up-and-Coming Designers of Design Center
L. KLEIN
OLIVIA B.
TEARS OF TIME
JAUME LABRO
GERALYN SHERIDAN DESIGNS
AS TH E Y E A RS H AV E PAS S E D, J CK ’S R I SI N G STA R S HAV E F OC U SE D ON VA R I E D A E ST HE T I C S, I N S P IR AT IO N S, AN D MAT ER IALS. THE DESIGN E RS BE H I ND T H E CRE AT I O NS A R E A LWAYS E AG E R TO SHA R E HOW T HE Y CA M E TO B E . T HIS Y EAR , T HE C R EATO R S TAKIN G UP RESIDENCE IN T H E D E S I G N CE NT E R O F J CK L AS V E GAS OF F E R A R A N G E OF P E R SP E C T I V E S A N D T E C HN IQ UES— N OT TO MEN T IO N JEWELS TH AT SH O PPE RS WI LL LOV E . YO U ’LL M E E T A CATA LON I A- B OR N G OL D SM I T H; T WO B R A N D S F R OM P O L AN D, BOTH ART ISTS WIT H G E MS; A NO RTH ER N CA LI FO RNI A J E WE LE R CRA F T I N G BY E T HI CA L D E SI G N , A STA R W HO SP E C I A L I ZE S I N C L ASSIC ITALIAN - MAD E P IEC ES; A N EW YO RK CO M PA NY WI LD A BO U T CO LO RE D G E M STON E S; A T U R K I SH J E W E L E R W HO M A K E S T HI N G S P E R SO N AL; AN D A CAN AD IAN C R EATO R W HOSE J E W E L S C ON J U R E I M AG E S OF A D R E A M VACAT I ON .
AMON KUYMCULUK.
Based in Istanbul, Turkey, Amon Kuymculuk
L. KLEIN.
Winner of the 2019 JCK Tucson Design Challenge, Lauren Klein
features a wide variety of jewelry designs, specializing in styles that can be
brings her Italian-crafted jewels to shine in the Design Center of Las Vegas.
personalized. Initials and full names, Zodiac signs, and lucky charms are just
Featuring a signature “L” on each piece, Klein’s offerings encapsulate the idea
a few of the items you’ll find from the jeweler, whose selection is perfect for
that less is more with a clean, classic style that goes well with everything.
the self-shopper and gift-giver. Since the pieces are made in sterling silver, some gold-filled and accented with cubic zirconia, the price point is
MARGISA.
friendly, too.
Margisa has perfected the art of detailed jewelry. Each handcrafted design
Founded in 2009 in Poland by Margita and Kristof Grabovski,
is truly an artwork, featuring colored gemstones and diamonds, with hand-
EMILIA LE KARRIE.
With collection names like Sea Star, Golden
Dunes, Fireworks, and Summer Sky, Emilia Le Karrie’s jewels inspire dreams of a beachside idyll. Handcrafted in Canada, Le Karrie’s jewels are made in
forged details like engraving and texturing. These one-of-a-kind styles are well worth a look—and once you do, you won’t be able to look away.
14k and 18k gold with brightly colored gemstones like blue topaz, amethyst,
TEARS OF TIME.
pearl, and diamonds, to name a few.
fantastical landscapes of Iceland. The country’s varied terrain is reflected in
Also from Poland, Tears of Time is inspired by the
the detail of the company’s creations, which use intricate textures and natural
GERALYN SHERIDAN DESIGNS. A GIA graduate gemologist, metalsmith Geralyn Sheridan creates eco-friendly fine jewelry in Northern
gemstones to invoke Iceland’s storied scenery. This is one not to miss.
California. From bridal sets to colored gemstones to diamond jewelry, there’s
OLIVIA B.
something for every shopper and occasion.
of classic and vintage-inspired designs that take their cues from nature.
Gemstones are at the heart of Olivia B.’s work, with silhouettes
Glossy onyx, bubbly blue topaz, and seaworthy chrysoprase are just a few
JAUME LABRO. Jaume Labro was born in a city close to Barcelona,
examples of what you’ll see when you visit the New York–based brand.
drawing inspiration from the likes of Gaudi, Dali, and Miro. After studying at GIA, the jeweler wanted to do more, and came across the Japanese technique mokume gane. Labro went on to learn the technique for his own creations, studying in Japan and Switzerland to hone his skills as a goldsmith. Today, his sustainable fine and bridal jewelry—featuring conflictfree diamonds and ethically sourced gold—shines with diamonds and colored gemstones.
FOLLOW @JCKEVENTS
jckinsider.com
@ j c k e v e n t s # J C K L a s Ve g a s
8
CONTENTS
JCKONLINE.COM
COVER
Crystal-clear aquamarines, exquisite emeralds, and a magnificent melo pearl are just a few of the year’s best-in-show jewels. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS
FEATURES 56
GET YOUR ROCKS ON From airy wraparound rings to breezy open bangles, these diamond designs are perfect for summer…and all year-round. BY RANDI MOLOFSKY
62
THE NEW DIAMOND BASICS You might want to consider tossing those tennis bracelets into the vault. Here are the diamond jewelry staples you should be stocking up on. BY AMY ELLIOTT
62
74
BEST OF THE WEST The biggest news, hottest trends, and most eye-catching exhibits at JCK and Luxury 2019 BY THE JCK EDITORS
76
150 YEARS, 150 VOICES: PART 5
81
56
In honor of our 150th anniversary, we asked 150 industry insiders to discuss how the business has changed over the decades and the role JCK played in that evolution. BY BRITTANY SIMINITZ
81
HOW TO MASTER OMNICHANNEL RETAIL Everything you need for selling online, on the go, or on the web’s largest e-commerce platform. BY EMILI VESILIND & MARTHA C. WHITE
(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) JOEL STANS; COURTESY OF EVA FEHREN; DIGITAL ART BY ALFREDO CEBALLOS; ILLUSTRATION BY NATHAN HACKETT. LAKSHMI MANDALA WITH 1.15 CTS. T.W. FIRE OPAL, 5.69 CTS. T.W. RUBELLITE, 2.72 CTS. T.W. MANDARIN GARNET, 0.3 CT. T.W. HOT PINK SAPPHIRES, AND 2.08 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD ON STRAND OF 19 PINK FRESHWATER BAROQUE PEARLS, $34,200, ERICA COURTNEY, 323-938-2373, ERICACOURTNEY.COM
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PICK OF THE GLITTER
JULY / AUGUST 2019
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E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M
F I N E J E W E L R Y E S T. 1 9 7 9
CONTENTS
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43
JEWEL BOX
5 things rocking the industry
KANTNER: CHELSEA LANE; FANNING: THEO WARGO/WIREIMAGE
DEPARTMENTS 14
JCKONLINE.COM
16 FROM THE EDITOR 18 STAFF PICKS 20 FROM THE PUBLISHER 26 JCK INSIDER 28 JCKONLINE 30 SOCIAL DIARY 33 NEWS GEMS
Signet’s ongoing issues
Industry shows, July 18–Sept. 24, 2019
18
39 GEM PRICING REPORT 40 THE CALENDAR 43 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER
Liz Kantner of Stay Gold at Divination in Asheville, N.C. 45 RETAIL THERAPY What styles are you investing in for the holidays? 46 STORE WE ADORE Michele Varian in New York City
49 THE LOOK 50 RED CARPET 52 JCK ASKS...
Dana Bronfman
89 90 92 95
THE VAULT GOLD COLORED STONES
SHOW BIZ A roundup of all the mid-August jewelry shows in Manhattan
49 104
50
97 TOOL TIME
How to craft a snappy online bio. Plus: the Nowa Superbe.
104 THE WAY WE WERE
Cover stories from 150 years of JCK
JULY / AUGUST 2019
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To a c c e s s c o m p l i m e n t a r y i n - s t o r e a s s e t s , p l e a s e v i s i t s h o p . d i a m o n d p r o d u c e r s . c o m
Cover ook
JCKONLINE.COM
BeST IN SHoW
Aquamarine dreams, elegant emeralds, and one-of-a-kind stunners at Luxury and JCK
®
Ring with 20.11 ct. aquamarine and 0.64 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $25,120; Doron Paloma; 888-663-6837; doronpaloma.com
18k white gold ring with 1.06 ct. emerald, 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds, 0.78 ct. t.w. onyx, and 3.78 cts. t.w. rock crystal; $2,300; Cirari by Color Jewels; 212764-2823; cirari.com
14k white gold pendant with 39.9 ct. aquamarine and 9.25 cts. t.w. diamonds; $59,550; Couture by Ashi; 212-319-8291; ashidiamonds.com
®
954.578.1880 www.sterlingreputation.com
Call Today For a Free Sample!
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS Prop Stylists: EMILY & TONY MULLIN/HELLO ARTISTS Stylist: DANIEL EDLEY/BRYDGES MACKINNEY Hair and Makeup: MIDORI SLIGH FOR R+CO Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON FOR CHANEL/ART DEPARTMENT Model: WILSON/ALL CREATURES GREAT & SMALL JCKONLINE.COM
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the industry authority
5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY
Jewel box 1
EXHIBITIONS
PEOPLE
Before Signet started selling the Leo Diamond, there was the legendary diamond dealer who gave it its name. Leo Schachter, who died May 9 at age 95, was a giant in the gem business, an early adopter of both branding and international expansion. The diamond trade is renowned for its big personalities, but Schachter typically stayed beneath the radar. “He was very humble, very quiet,” says Elliot Tannenbaum, who now runs his father-in-law’s company with son Dov. “That humility stands out if you’re successful.” Schachter also loved his work, frequently telling people, “I never worked a day in my life.”
One of the very few fine jewelry creations from Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana
MONAE: ELAINE WELLS/STAR MAX/IPX/AP; MARCH: CHELSEA GUGLIELMINO/FILMMAGIC
2
Florals? For spring? Not quite groundbreaking. But even Miranda Priestly would have been impressed with the rhapsodic In Bloom, spring’s three-week selling exhibition at Sotheby’s New York. Curated by British Vogue’s Carol Woolton and Frank Everett, sales director of Sotheby’s luxury division, the petal-heavy show composed of 75 pieces covering nearly 250 years—from a circa 1780 old mine– and rose-cut diamond flower bangle to diamond, tsavorite, and enamel orchid earrings with detachable stems created especially for the exhibition by British jeweler Shaun Leane. Along with historic brands including Cartier, Verdura, and Van Cleef & Arpels, the show also repped some of today’s most daring designers, such as Lydia Courteille, Bina Goenka, and Neha Dani.
JCKONLINE.COM
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15 While the Lesedi had top color and clarity, this as-yetunnamed diamond is described as a “new gem of variable quality.”
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DIAMONDS ISSUES
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In the wake of #MeToo, more women are speaking out about harassment and discrimination— including in the jewelry industry. In a new survey from the Women’s Jewelry Association’s Gender Equality Project, 30% of employees said they’d been deprived of opportunity for advancement due to gender-related issues, 50% reported being subject to a gender-related hostile work environment, and 23% said they’d experienced sexual harassment. Even worse: The survey found that only a small percentage of higher-ups had received complaints about these issues. In fact, one-third of managers weren’t even aware if their companies had policies on discrimination.
JCK070119_014_JewelBox.indd 15
In 2015, Lucara Diamond unearthed the 1,109 ct. Lesedi La Rona at its Karowe mine in Botswana, and it was instantly crowned the second-largest piece of rough ever found. But this summer, that stone was dwarfed by a new discovery: a 1,758 ct. diamond, also found at Karowe. The 3,106 ct. Cullinan is still the largest recorded piece of rough ever unearthed— though, given the rate big gems have been discovered lately, who knows how long that will stand?
5
CELEBRITIES
Janelle Monáe— wearing Christian Siriano, with Hanut Singh Starburst earrings—said she was inspired by Picasso.
The theme of this year’s Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute exhibit, “Camp: Notes on Fashion,” meant that, for once, there was no wrong way to dress for the Met Gala. And sans a strict dress code, celeb guests and their glam squads broke out colorful, over-the-top ensembles. Katy Perry dressed as a chandelier (the look was lit!), then a hamburger, while Kacey Musgraves came clad as an actual Barbie doll. But there was no funny business when it came to the night’s jewelry: Lily Collins rocked a Cartier platinum necklace heaving with emeralds; and Lupita Nyong’o wore a rope-thick Bulgari necklace set with a 41 ct. emerald surrounded by amethysts—which complemented her rainbow-striped wings perfectly.
7/17/19 11:48 AM
I
from the editor
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14k white gold articulating necklace with 0.41 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,450; Artistry, Ltd.; 888-674-3250; artistrylimited.com
Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com JULY / AUGUST 2019
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(I COULDN’T RESIST!) For the second year in a row, we’ve invited a pup-star to grace the cover of our annual Best in Show issue and the companion feature that runs inside, highlighting the best statement jewels we saw at last month’s JCK and Luxury shows in Las Vegas. Look to “Pick of the Glitter” on page 66, to see what caught our fancy, as well as that of Wilson the Siberian husky, who caused a small sensation in the photo studio when we found him licking the lab-grown diamond bow necklace loaned to us by Design Center exhibitor Lark & Berry. The little guy couldn’t have conveyed our affection for these pieces any better! As we culled through our notes to determine the items we’d include in our annual “Best of the West” feature (page 74), we realized we had a lot of material to choose from—starting with the show’s return to the Sands Expo and Venetian Resort, the place where it all began in 1992. The freshly renovated venue lived up to the hype! And thank goodness for that. This year, the show welcomed an actual head of state— Botswana President Mokgweetsi Masisi, who spoke about what diamonds have done for his country, subtly making the case for mined diamonds amid a growing chorus of lab-grown supporters (for more on his visit, see page 74). Here at JCK, we consider ourselves diamond
agnostics, which is why we had no qualms about calling in the Lark & Berry necklace for our photo shoot. Unlike most lab-grown firms, the London-based company places design front and center. Take a look at this issue’s two diamond fashion jewelry features—“Get Your Rocks On” (page 56) by jewelry editor Randi Molofsky and “The New Diamond Basics” (page 62) by contributor Amy Elliott—and you’ll understand the degree to which we value a strong aesthetic point of view. To hear our readers tell it, showcasing great design is one of our hallmarks. In the fifth and penultimate installment of our “150 Years, 150 Voices” series on page 76, you’ll find insightful remarks about the way this industry has changed over the decades and how JCK has remained one step ahead of those changes. I’ve become a little obsessed with reading the kind words people have shared about our magazine, because I know how well deserved they are— and have been since long before I arrived. Consultant Diane Warga-Arias says it best: “My first exposure to JCK was as a graduate student working part-time at a jewelry store,” she recalls on page 79. “I quickly discovered that JCK was ‘the word’ on emerging designers, events, business opportunities, and new jewelry collections.” Long may that continue.
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES
t’s a ruff life.
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the industry authority
OUR FAVORITE THINGS
STAFF PICKS Rubellite Puzzle earrings in 18k yellow gold with 38 cts. t.w. rubellite; $21,000; Karma El Khalil; lainne@ karmaelkhalil.com; karmaelkhalil.com
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LOVE TRIANGLE
Bracelet with 1.25 ct. trilliant green tourmaline, 0.88 ct. trilliant pink tourmaline, and 0.27 ct. t.w. white round diamonds in 18k rose gold; $4,578; Yael Designs; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com
What JCK magazine’s Victoria Gomelsky is loving this month
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Tala C-Clip earrings in 18k white gold with mother-of-pearl and 1.3 cts. t.w. diamonds; $11,760; Ananya Fine Jewellery; info@ananya.com; ananya.com
“A sucker for geometric designs, I’m especially drawn to triangles right now, both as stone cuts and as recurring jewelry motifs.”—Victoria Gomelsky, JCK editor-in-chief
Elixir bracelet in 18k rose gold with 2.35 cts. t.w. diamonds; $12,995; Alessa Jewelry; 502-22998686; alessa.jewelry
PORTRAIT: NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS
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Sonya 6 ring in 18k gold with Tahitian pearl and triangle-cut diamond; $4,348; Maya; admin@maya gemstones.com; mayagemstones.com
JCKONLINE.COM
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FROM THE PUBLISHER
The happy couple: Dominika and Mirek. Everyone at JCK couldn’t be happier for them!
Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com JULY / AUGUST 2019
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GREETINGS FROM MY flight back home from the 2019 editions of the JCK, Luxury, and JIS Exchange shows in Las Vegas. Congrats to Yancy Weinrich, Sarin Bachmann, and Jordan Tuchband of Reed Jewelry Group on the success of all three events. By all accounts, JCK’s return to the Sands Expo was a resounding success. The entire show felt fresh, with clean black-and-white branding, redesigned logos, and better signage. Many of the pavilions were new as well, including the spectacular state-of-the-art Plumb Club pavilion. While traffic was consistent with last year (impressive in light of annual store closings), the overall impression was that those who came, came to buy. Of course, the days of setting up a booth and waiting for foot traffic are long gone, but exhibitors who booked appointments in advance, introduced new product, and spent the first half of the year working the smaller shows to prep for Vegas had a very successful show. Several brands told me it was their best show in years. There were several highlights of the week, including a terrific keynote speech by Mokgweetsi Masisi, president of Botswana; the Diamond Empowerment
Fund dinner; the Jewelers for Children dinner ( honoring former JCK-er and current president and CEO of Jewelers of America, Dave Bonaparte); and JCK’s Tao Takeover celebration on Sunday night. Whether it’s at a black-tie affair, on the show floor, on a dance floor, or even in an elevator, the opportunities to network in Vegas are endless. It is always a delight to see friends from across the globe, and this year was no exception. The highlight of the week for me, however, was an event I had to keep secret for the past three months: On the evening of Monday, June 3, longtime JCK international sales rep Mirek Kraczkowski and his girlfriend of 13 years, Dominika Olejnik, were married at the famous Little White Chapel. As intended, the setting and ceremony were a caricature of a Las Vegas wedding, but the tears flowing down the faces of the bride and groom, their three adult children, and the rest of us in attendance were entirely real and heartfelt. Such a moment of joy. Congratulations, Mirek and Dominika! Next up is a much-needed family vacation, and then it’s on to the first annual Jewelers of America National Convention in New York City in July. I look forward to seeing you then!
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES
smash hit!
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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 150 YEARS!
Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES
Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
EDITORIAL News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com
U.S. ADVERTISING SALES CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com
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Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHI-HART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG
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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY
Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, Luxury, Swiss Watch, JIS & JCK Tucson) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 / yweinrich@reedexpo.com
I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305; cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com
Light Collection 888.674.8340 info@graymoorlanedesigns.com www.graymoorlanedesigns.com Graymoor Lane Designs is a division of Artistry, Ltd.
JCK TUCSON
Event Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedexpo.com
Account Executive NINA MANCINI Bridge, Design Center, Design@Luxury 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedexpo.com
Event Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@ reedexpo.com
Account Executive BARBARA MURRAY Global Gemstone, First Look 203-840-5820 bmurray@reedexpo.com
Event Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@ reedexpo.com
Sales Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Antique & Estate, JSA Security, Lab-Grown Diamonds 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com
Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedexpo.com
Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedexpo.com Special Events and Conference Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@reedexpo.com Strategic Accounts Manager JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Luxury 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedexpo.com International Accounts Manager ALEXANDRA WURSTER Passport, Hong Kong, Germany & International Companies 203-840-5332 awurster@reedexpo.com Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, Essentials & Technology, Gallery, Bella Italia, Retail Innovation 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedexpo.com
Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com
THAILAND BUSABA THAWEEPHOON Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7374, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell 66-96-725-1525 busaba.thaw@reedtradex.co.th
CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com
J C K L A S V E G A S , L U X U R Y & S W I S S WAT C H
Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedexpo.com
Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK • JCK Las Vegas JA NY • SJTA • Prime The Select Shows Centurion South Beach
ISRAEL RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com
Account Executive ANA CROSBY Bridal, Currents, Diamond Plaza, Plumb Club 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedexpo.com
Retailer Account Manager JCK Las Vegas MONALISA DEPINA 203-840-5556 mdepina@reedexpo.com Retailer Account Manager Luxury ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedexpo.com Marketing Manager JCK Las Vegas LINDSAY TYLER 203-840-5340 ltyler@reedexpo.com Marketing Manager Luxury AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedexpo.com
Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedexpo.com Sales Manager NINA MANCINI Arizona Ballroom 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedexpo.com Account Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Tucson Ballroom 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedexpo.com Marketing Manager AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedexpo.com
Like fashion, your gold customer is changing. We get that. Royal Chain creates gold jewelry for every customer who walks through your door. Discover it on: ROYALCHAIN.COM 800 622 0960
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CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE
the industry authority
INSIDER Color Fused By Fire
DID YOU KNOW?
Holy guacamole! Producing 60% of California’s avocados, San Diego is the avo capital of the United States. The debut JIS DELIVERY show runs Nov. 2–4 in San Diego.
TO LEARN MORE, VISIT jisshow.com
PETALS & METAL Ask About Our Custom Design Service nicolebarr.com 877.810.7312
Florals were in bloom at the recent Luxury show in Las Vegas, from Erica Courtney’s paraiba drop earrings to Vivaan’s rose-cut diamond studs to Alex A’s amethyst pendant to Alishan’s 18k yellow and rose gold, platinum, and oxidized sterling silver gemstone cuff (pictured). For more flower-powered jewels, visit jckinsider.com.
JCK contributing editor Brittany Siminitz helps us lighten up for summer with soft and sweet colored stone styles from designers including Lauren K (top) and Ayva Jewelry (above). Check out her picks on jckinsider.com, and see some aquamarines from JCK Las Vegas on page 68. SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM. JCKONLINE.COM
AVOCADOS: COURTESY OF THE CALIFORNIA AVOCADO COMMISSION
PASTEL PERFECT
833 Market Street, 10th Floor • San Francisco, CA 94103 • Tel: (415) 543-1580 • 800-864-0767 • Fax: (415) 398-3699 www.herco.com • Email: info@herco.com
CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE
the industry authority
ONLINE
@JCKMagazine JCKmagazine @jckmagazine @jckmagazine
INSTAGEM
FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH Illustrator Lisa Bayer (@sketchnyc) draws models, magazine covers, and celebrities from Nicki Minaj to Queen Elizabeth. But we’re a sucker for her jewelry art, from which we can instantly identify the brand. She has quite the knack for capturing a designer’s signature style.
Fernando Jorge’s Surround earrings, in honor of his 2019 Gem Award win
In the pink with a stack of Mark Davis Bakelite bangles
A spectacular Sputnik-style brooch by Hemmerle
A pink opal–inlaid amulet from the Los Angeles–based brand Retrouvaí
In a color spiral with Solange Azagury-Partridge’s cheery enamel and diamond wrap ring
Theresa Kaz’s evil eye–style pendant in seaside-shade colored stones
“If it is legit, no problem, make it public. This is not about government crackdowns; it’s accountability.” — JCKonline reader Lauren Gebauer-Boucher on “State Dep’t Warns of Jewelry Industry Crackdown” JCKONLINE.COM
Social Diary
JCK & LUXURY 2019
30
SANDS, MAN!
Whether the venue was a homecoming or a new adventure, the shows were their usual six-day whirlwind of meetings, shopping, and (social) networking
1
Blogger Kristine Agabaian (@krischerie) peruses the Greek Jewels section.
2
New York retailer June Nam (l.) meets Pepper the IBM robot in the Plumb Club.
3
Sorting stones in the new Global Gemstone neighborhood
4
Takat’s Rayaz Takat surrounded by some of his company’s sensational sapphires and emeralds
5
Gabriel & Co.’s Jack (l.) and Dominick Gabriel fete Gabriel & Co.’s 30th-anniversary book, penned by JCK’s own editor-in-chief, Victoria Gomelsky.
JULY / AUGUST 2019
JCK070119_030_SocialDiary_v2.indd 30
6
7
Inside the American Watchmakers– Clockmakers Institute’s mobile classroom
Mexican designers Mariana and Lorena Bobadilla help celebrate JCK’s 150th.
All smiles and brisk business in the Le Vian ballroom at Luxury
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JCKONLINE.COM
6/26/19 3:31 PM
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9 13
Natalie Ghanimian, Nisha Jain, and Brigid Brumby enjoy a Luxury afternoon snack.
10 Exhibitor Pedro Hernandez strikes his best angelic pose.
12 14
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CAMILLA SJODIN
De Beers’ David Prager and Forevermark’s Stephen Lussier applaud Masisi.
Why do you JCK, Sara Kazimi? According to the note the Beverly Hills, Calif., retailer left, “Love.” JCKONLINE.COM
JCK070119_030_SocialDiary_v2.indd 31
17
Reed Exhibitions senior VP Yancy Weinrich takes in Botswana President Mokgweetsi Masisi’s keynote.
15
The madefor-JCK art by KicksBySammy was a popular Instagram spot.
Signet exec David Bouffard catches up on the day’s news.
11
16
Ainsley Skopik of Kindler’s Gem Jewelers in Waco, Texas, shops the Stuller booth.
18
Donald Cope of Hawaiian Trading Post in Lawai, Hawaii, feels the bead at JIS Exchange.
Hey, Mr. DJ, put a record on! JULY / AUGUST 2019
6/26/19 3:31 PM
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the industry authority
JULY / AUGUST 2019
NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE
NEWS GEMS What’s Clicking on JCKonline
A pear-shape Swiss blue topaz, diamond, and 10k gold pendant from Zales’ Enchanted Disney Aladdin collection ($599)
The top stories for May. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline. com/newsletters/subscribe.
1
Jewelry Likely to Be Hit
ROCKY ROAD
2
The Next Lab-Grown
Signet’s path to brilliance keeps hitting bumps
S
Diamond Fight May Be Over Patents: WD Lab Grown Diamonds says it will go to court to protect what it sees as its intellectual property.
3
BY ROB BATES
INCE SHE TOOK over Signet Jewelers two years ago, CEO Gina Drosos has tirelessly promoted her “path to brilliance” transformation plan and its three prongs: customers first, a culture of agility and efficiency, and omnichannel. Yet two years into the planned three-year transformation, it is clear that the path to brilliance—or even just to greater stability—has proved tougher than expected: • In April, Signet laid off an unspecified number of employees at its Akron, Ohio, and Dallas home offices, after not enough workers took a
With Tariffs in Trump Trade War: As hostilities between the U.S. government and China heat up, the jewelry business could be caught in the middle.
voluntary buyout Signet offered in February. The company is closing a Dallas manufacturing facility, which will result in the loss of 100 jobs. • Also in April, The New York Times Magazine ran a 12,000-word cover story detailing allegations of sexual harassment and gender discrimination at Signet’s Sterling division that first surfaced in a now–11-year-old class-action arbitration. Signet has denied the discrimination claims and labeled the harassment allegations “old.” But they were a clear black eye at a time when the company didn’t need it.
Diamond Miners Hit Back on Lab-Grown’s Eco-Friendly Claims: The Diamond Producers Association released a report that seemingly refutes labgrown diamond companies’ claims that their products have less environmental impact than earth-mined stones.
4
James Allen to Offer Laboratory-Created Diamonds: The Signetowned e-tailer says if customers accept them, other Signet divisions will offer them.
5
Diamond Industry Legend
Leo Schachter Dies: He founded his first company, Beck & Schachter, in New York City in 1952.
JCKONLINE.COM
JCK070119_033_NEWSGems.indd 33
6/26/19 3:51 PM
NEWS GEMS
THE
Jared the Galleria of Jewelry in Pittsburgh’s South Hills Village mall
• The company’s sales have been consistently disappointing. In the quarter that ended in May, comps fell 1.3%, with every banner registering declines, save for Piercing Pagoda—ironically, Signet’s most atypical business. Even e-tailer James Allen, which had been registering strong sales gains since Signet acquired it in 2017, now regularly posts declines, due to the effect of online sales tax. • The company has seen turnover in its upper ranks. In the first six months of the year, president and chief customer officer Sebastian Hobbs, chief financial officer Michele Santana, and the managing director of its U.K. division, Emma Hayward, have all left their posts, with Hobbs taking over Hayward’s position on an interim basis. Drosos has responded by vowing to speed up the pace of innovation in Signet banners, arguing the sales declines were sparked by “legacy” collections like Ever Us. The company has seen strong results from its Enchanted Disney and new Love + Be Loved lines. And in May, James Allen began offering lab-grown diamonds, which makes it the first Signet division to do so. The company is also trying to refresh its advertising and has recruited new ad agencies for the three main U.S. banners—Kay Jewelers, Jared the Galleria of Jewelry, and Zales. This marks the first year that Signet will spend more on digital advertising than on television. In addition, Signet plans to close 150 stores over the coming fiscal year, mostly in malls, and has engaged in a series of stock buybacks. Those are ordinarily things that would cheer the financial community, but it seems Wall Street remains skeptical. At press time, Signet’s stock was trading around the $20 mark, its lowest level since the Great Recession. Just four years ago, it traded at $150.
—Helena Foulkes, CEO of Hudson’s Bay Co., owner of Lord & Taylor, to Recode. HBC is exploring “strategic alternatives” (i.e., a sale) for L&T.
JCKONLINE.COM
JARED: JIM MAGUIRE
“Lord & Taylor… is in the toughest part of retail: the middle.”
NEWS GEMS
Q&A
3 Questions for...
CLIVE HILL
IN APRIL, CLIVE Hill, the president of WD Lab Grown Diamonds, spoke to JCK at the company’s headquarters in Maryland. Here, the former CEO of U.K. retailer Fraser Hart discusses patent issues, why he’s not concerned if lab-grown prices go down, and what he would say to those worried about the product. —RB You have alleged that other growers are infringing on the patents WD licensed from the Carnegie Institute for growing diamonds with the chemical vapor deposition (CVD) method, as well as for post-growth treatment. They deny this. Will you act on that? We have sent a number of letters in the past. We will be moving to a rather more significant level. Within a very short period of time, we will start action with some retailers [that sell allegedly infringing products]. If we have to end up in court, we will end up there. Hopefully we can pick one or two [retailers to work with] and people will cooperate with us a bit better. We want to work with people. That is our modus operandi. But we want it to be fair. In some cases, the prices of labgrown diamonds have been falling. JCKONLINE.COM
Do you see that as an issue? I always feel that question is a little bit back to front. What is really happening, as I see it, is consumers are getting more for their dollar. They look at us and they say, “This is a technology business; I expect to get a little bit more than I did last year.” What do you see as the future of the lab-grown sector? Lab-grown will take market share
35
from mined stones. That’s inevitable; that is not preventable. I have been a retailer. I understand how frightening this change must be to a lot of the traditional retailers. Someone who has been in a relatively slow-moving business their whole life is suddenly faced with this thing changing—it has got to be scary. They have got to be worried. But they have to do what consumers want. The reality is, this genie is not going back in the bottle.
A 9.04 ct. round brilliant diamond, grown with WD Lab Grown Diamonds’ CVD process
Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com
NEWS GEMS
INDUSTRY&PEOPLE Ref. 4978/400G ladies’ Calatrava Diamond Ribbon in white gold with 4.4 cts. t.w. diamonds; $73,710; Patek Philippe; 212-2181240; patek.com Gahed, currently the chief
revenue officer. Following the transition, Hanson will serve as nonexecutive chairman of the board of directors. Audrey Finci, chief operating and financial officer, will take on the additional role of president.
Dorothée Gizenga
THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY JCK NEWS DAILY
New York City–based brand’s executive vice president. He is the former vice president of Madison L and director of sales for Hearts On Fire.
—
A ROUNDUP OF OUR BEST STORIES DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX EACH DAY.
Breaking news, industry insights and practical advice for the jewelry trade. With all original, not aggregated content, the JCK News Daily newsletter is the industry’s true, business-to-business news source.
and marketing consultant for the New England region. He previously worked for T&D Materials Manufacturing, JK Findings, and W.R. Cobb. Caryl Capeci, president of
Jérôme Biard Roventa-Henex, a Swiss manufacturer of privatelabel watches, has appointed Jérôme Biard its new CEO. Christopher G. Croteau has joined Vibhor Gems as the
JCKONLINE.COM/SUBSCRIBE
Ashi Diamonds hired Steven Parks as sales representative
Audrey Finci Robert Hanson, CEO of John Hardy since 2014, will
step down later this year. He will be replaced by Kareem
Hearts On Fire since 2015, has been promoted to CEO of Chow Tai Fook North America. The new entity will oversee both the Hearts On Fire and Mémoire brands as well as Chow Tai Fook’s diamond jewelry collections and private label offerings. JCKONLINE.COM
GIZENGA: COURTESY OF DIAMOND DEVELOPMENT INITIATIVE
COMINGS AND GOINGS
Dorothée Gizenga, who for 13 years served as executive director of the Diamond Development Initiative, is moving on to the role of regional director for Africa, based out of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The group is looking for a new executive director.
info@uneekjewelry.com | 1-888-BE-UNEEK | www.uneekjewelry.com Most Awarded Jewelry Designer Benjamin Javaheri
NEWS GEMS
INDUSTRY&PEOPLE
38
Mahiar Borhanjoo Mahiar Borhanjoo, former executive director of sales and sightholder services of De Beers’ Diamond Trading Co. and managing director of Venus Jewel International, has joined online diamond company DFL Group as its CEO.
Former Mercury Ring president Jeffrey Bergman has joined Overnight Mountings as national accounts manager. Lisa Jones is the new president of Henri Stern Watch Agency, the American importer and distributor for Patek Philippe. She takes over from Larry Pettinelli, who has filled the role since 2007.
Men’s wedding bands in 14k gold; $1,200–$1,700; Novell Group; 888-668-3551; novellgroup.com
J. Hilburn, joined Spence last
September as chief marketing officer. He takes over from Eric Lindberg, who will remain with the company as executive chairman.
FINANCIAL Four-year-old jewelry brand Mejuri, which targets the female self-purchase market, has raised $23 million in a Series B funding round. New Enterprise Associates
led the round. On May 28, D & M Capital Group, a New York City–
Veeral Rathod Spence Diamonds, the
13-store diamond retailer with stores in Canada and the United States, has named Veeral Rathod as its new CEO. Rathod, cofounder of custom menswear brand JULY / AUGUST 2019
JCK070119_033_NEWSGems.indd 38
based diamond wholesaler run and owned by dealer Moty Spector, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in Southern District of New York federal court.
On May 31, secondhand luxury e-tailer The RealReal filed for an initial public offering with the Securities and Exchange Commission. The company hopes to raise $100 million.
On May 30, multichannel luxury watch retailer Watches of Switzerland Group premiered on the London Stock Exchange. It owns Mayors as well as four Watches of Switzerland stores in the United States. A group of shareholders, led by Hudson’s Bay Co. (HBC) executive chairman Richard Baker, has submitted a $1.3 billion bid to take HBC private. The company owns Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord & Taylor, and Canadian department store chain Hudson’s Bay.
buyback business, though it has expressed interest in entering the b urgeoning consumer-to-consumer diamond resale market.
REMEMBERED Donna Sturm, manager of design and product development for storied New York City jewelry house Verdura, died May 4 from a traumatic brain injury she suffered after being struck by a bicyclist while crossing the street during her lunch hour. She was 67.
COMPANIES Hong Kong–based C ontinental Jewelry has acquired an 85% stake in N ovell Enterprises, the Roselle, N.J.–based jewelry manufacturer, for $5.1 million. De Beers has shut the International Institute of Diamond Valuation, its
foray into the diamond
then-ailing institution back to financial health— died June 9. He was 90.
Glenn Nord Carl Messler, a New York City jewelry sales rep who worked for five decades for companies including G.C.&G. and Izi Creations, died Feb. 20. He was 81.
ASSOCIATIONS The Lab Grown Diamond Council, a new group that
Donna Sturm Glenn Nord —who served as president of GIA from 1983 to 1986 and is widely credited with nursing the
aims to set standards and possibly do marketing for the lab-created diamond industry, is up and running. Former National Jeweler publisher Chris Casey is its president; Silver Promotion Service head Michael Barlerin is chairman. JCKONLINE.COM
6/26/19 3:51 PM
NEWS GEMS
EM
EMERALD AND SAPPHIRE SET TO GRAB RUBY’S SHARE
ACTIVITY IN THE U.S. gem market at midyear is softer than expected given the fairly healthy economy. Yet the trends observed earlier this year continue. Sourcing fine quality ruby at affordable prices has become very challenging. There is very little fine Burmese ruby available, and those gems in the market are very expensive. The same situation is starting to develop for higher-end Mozambique rubies. For sapphires, however, demand is supported by fairly good availability. One of the best performing colors is teal. Interest in these blue-green gems is particularly strong among young designers and has helped bolster Montana’s sapphire industry. We are also seeing more emerald, some from manufacturers that used to feature mostly ruby and sapphire. It’s easier to source at affordable prices than finer-quality ruby or sapphire. The main sources today are Colombia, Zambia, Brazil, plus a few smaller sites. Prices for emerald are currently stable.
39 VS1
VS2
SI1
SI2
GOOD
DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant G H
$6,800 $6,080
$6,320 $5,800
$5,700
$4,720
$5,450
1 to under 2 cts.
$2,750–$4,500
$8,000–$10,000
2 to under 3 cts.
$3,500–$6,000
$9,500–$11,500
$4,470
Rhodolite Garnet I
$5,700
$5,200
$4,950
$4,000
J
$4,900
$4,500
$4,080
$3,760
1 to under 3 cts.
$30–$70
$70–$110
3 to under 5 cts.
$60–$90
$90–$150
DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round G H
$3,570 $3,200
$3,200 $3,000
Rubellite Tourmaline
$2,700
$2,340
$2,600
1 to under 3 cts.
$75–$125
$220–$250
3 to under 5 cts.
$110–$225
$275–$375
$2,270
Tsavorite Garnet I
$2,720
$2,630
$2,250
$2,150
J
$2,240
$2,125
$2,000
$2,050
1 to under 3 cts.
$575–$850
$1,050–$1,250
3 to under 5 cts.
$1,500–$2,200
$2,500–$3,000
DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant G H
$12,200 $10,300
$11,300 $10,000
Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)
$9,350
$7,600
$8,300
9 to under 12.5 cts.
$3,500–$4,500
$4,500–$8,000
10 to under 13.5 cts.
$4,000–$5,000
$5,000–$9,000
$7,150
Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I
$9,700
$7,900
$7,600
$6,725
J
$7,200
$7,300
$6,400
$6,000
2 to under 3 cts.
$1,800–$3,500
$5,000–$6,250
3 to under 5 cts.
$2,500–$3,700
$6,500–$9,000
DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut G
$8,960
$8,100
Pink Sapphire
$7,575
$6,600
H
$8,350
$7,560
$6,800
$6,000
I
$6,475
$6,140
$6,000
$5,400
1 to under 3 cts.
$425–$715
$850–$1,100
3 to under 5 cts.
$525–$950
$1,350–$1,800
1 to under 3 cts.
$50–$75
$125–$150
3 to under 5 cts.
$60–$80
$135–$170
Blue Zircon
J
$5,350
$4,850
$4,770
$4,700
Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.
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JULY / AUGUST 2019
the industry authority
SHOWS & EVENTS
THE CALENDAR
U.S. • JULY
18–21
JEWELRY, FASHION & ACCESSORIES SHOW Rosemont, Ill. jfashow.com
19–21
GEMFAIRE
San Rafael, Calif. gemfaire.com
OKLAHOMA SUMMER BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Oklahoma City aksshow.com
20–23
IJO CONFERENCE Pittsburgh ijo.com
21–23 MRKET
New York City
ubmfashion.com
21–24
PHILADELPHIA GIFT SHOW Oaks, Pa.
philadelphia giftshow.com
22–23
INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Brooklyn, N.Y. iwjg.com
25–28
GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Franklin, N.C.
glwshows.com
26–28
NEW YORK A NTIQUE JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW New York City
newyorkantiquejewelry andwatchshow.com
PASADENA BEAD & DESIGN SHOW Pasadena, Calif.
STULLER BRIDGE CONFERENCE
beadanddesign.com
stuller.com
RJO SUMMER BUYING SHOW
Lafayette, La.
27–29
Schaumburg, Ill. rjomembers.com
28–29
3–5
New York City
Memphis, Tenn.
JEWELERS OF AMERICA NATIONAL CONVENTION jewelers.org
28–31
ASD MARKET WEEK Las Vegas
asdonline.com
• AUGUST 2–4
AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW
San Francisco
craftcouncil.org/shows
DALLAS SUMMER BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Grapevine, Texas aksshow.com
GEMFAIRE
Pleasanton, Calif. gemfaire.com
3–4
AMERICAN BEAD AND J EWELRY SHOW
10–11
MID-SOUTH JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES FAIR
AMERICAN BEAD AND J EWELRY SHOW
helenbrett.com
americanbead shows.com
3–6
52ND MID-YEAR ACE IT CONFERENCE Dallas
najaappraisers.com
4–6
PROJECT WOMEN’S/ ACCESSORIE CIRCUIT/FAME/ MODA/ACCESSORIES THE SHOW New York City
ubmfashion.com
9–11
EAST COAST GEM, MINERAL & FOSSIL SHOW West Springfield, Mass.
mineralshowslld.com
GREENSBORO GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW Greensboro, N.C. gtshows.com
Birmingham, Ala.
Louisville, Ky.
10–12
ATLANTA JEWELRY SHOW Atlanta
atlantajewelry show.com
MELEE THE SHOW New York City
meleetheshow.com
10–13
INTERNATIONAL FASHION JEWELRY & ACCESSORY SHOW
Earrings with 2.75 cts. t.w. pear-shape rubies and 0.97 ct. t.w. diamonds, $10,989, necklace with 1.28 ct. pear-shape ruby and 0.56 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,384, both in 18k white and rose gold; Yael Designs; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com
ifjag.com
10–14 NY NOW
New York City nynow.com
11–12
ST. LOUIS GIFT SHOW
rosehillgiftshows.com
METAL & SMITH New York City
metalandsmith.com
11–14
JA NEW YORK New York City
14–18
BEAD FEST P HILADELPHIA Oaks, Pa.
beadfest.com
15–18
NEW ORLEANS GIFT AND JEWELRY SHOW New Orleans
helenbrett.com
16–18
GEMFAIRE
Santa Barbara, Calif.
ja-newyork.com
gemfaire.com
12–14
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
MAGIC
Las Vegas
ubmfashion.com
12–15 There’s a plethora of shows in New York City Aug. 10–14.
RUBY
Las Vegas
Collinsville, Ill.
americanbead shows.com
July Birthstone
DENVER BEAD RENAISSANCE Denver
wholebead.com
Chantilly, Va. intergem.com
19–20
INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Los Angeles iwjg.com
21–24
DALLAS APPAREL & ACCESSORIES MARKET
Dallas
dallasmarket center.com
21–26
ROCKY MOUNTAIN GIFT SHOW Denver
rockymountain giftshow.com
23–25
GEMFAIRE
Costa Mesa, Calif. gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Schaumburg, Ill. intergem.com
25–26
LOUISVILLE GIFT SHOW
Shepherdsville, Ky.
rosehillgiftshows.com
29–SEPT. 1
JOGS TUCSON GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
Tucson
jogsshow.com
30–SEPT. 1 GEMFAIRE San Diego
gemfaire.com
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Pasadena, Calif. intergem.com
• SEPTEMBER 5–8
GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Tucson
glwshows.com
6–8
GEMFAIRE
Anderson, Calif. gemfaire.com
JCKONLINE.COM
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INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
intergem.com
intergem.com
San Mateo, Calif.
NEW ORLEANS FALL BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Kenner, La.
aksshow.com
San Antonio
6–14
parkertradeshow.com
COLORADO MINERAL & FOSSIL SHOW Denver
mineralshowslld.com
7–9
ARKANSAS J EWELERS A SSOCIATION CONVENTION
NORTON’S APPAREL, JEWELRY AND GIFT SHOW
Little Rock, Ark.
nortonshows.com
SELECT JEWELRY SHOW
Gatlinburg, Tenn.
8–9
arkansasjewelers.com
15–16
Washington, D.C.
SELECT JEWELRY SHOW Dallas
selectjewelry show.com
12–15
selectjewelry show.com
15–17
COTERIE/SOLE COMMERCE/ FAME/MODA
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
New York City
intergem.com
INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD
Denver
13–15
ASHEVILLE GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW Asheville, N.C. (FROM LEFT) SEAN PAVONE/ISTOCK/GETTY; ULTRAFORMA/E+/GETTY
14–15
gtshows.com
GEMFAIRE
San Rafael, Calif. gemfaire.com
ubmfashion.com
16–17
Las Vegas iwjg.com
20–22
INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW
August Birthstone
SPINEL
10–14
INDIA I NTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW
jewellerylondon.com
Bangkok
iijs.org
Birmingham, England
8–12
London
Mumbai, India
Ring with 6.03 ct. cushion-cut purple spinel and 0.53 ct. t.w. moon-cut diamonds in 18k white gold; $9,900; Coast Diamond; 800-523-5937; coastdiamond.com
15–18
PENANG SIGNATURE GOLD FAIR Penang, Malaysia
21–22
AMERICAN BEAD AND J EWELRY SHOW Charleston, S.C. americanbead shows.com
OKLAHOMA J EWELERS A SSOCIATION CONFERENCE
Edmond, Okla.
oklahomajewelers.org
22–23
SELECT JEWELRY SHOW Ledyard, Conn. selectjewelry show.com
22–24
• JULY
18–21
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY EXPO Singapore sije.com.sg
26–29
• AUGUST 1–2
austopalexpo.com.au
JIS MIAMI OCT. 4–7
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
jewelrytradefair.com/ cambodia/2019
Sydney
stuller.com
GET READY FOR…
CAMBODIA I NTERNATIONAL GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR
jewelry.org.hk
Nanjing, China
STULLER BRIDGE CONFERENCE
Oaks, Pa.
23–26
24–26
AUSTRALIAN OPAL EXHIBITION GOLD COAST
Lafayette, La.
elite.com.my/ penanggold
BAIMU I NTERNATIONAL JEWELRY E XHIBITION
Queensland, Australia
2–5
MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
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INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON
São Paulo
1–3
feninjer.com.br
intergem.com
JCKONLINE.COM
VICENZAORO
FENINJER
Collinsville, Ill.
SAN ANTONIO WHOLESALE JEWELRY, GIFTS & ACCESSORIES SHOW
• SEPTEMBER
5–8
INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY & WATCH FAIR
3–7
HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK FAIR Hong Kong
event.hktdc.com/fair/ hkwatchfair-en
6–9
BIJORHCA Paris
bijorhca.com
BISUTEX
ifema.es/en/bisutex
MADRIDJOYA Madrid
ifema.es/en/ madrid-joya
12–16
SHENZHEN I NTERNATIONAL JEWELRY SHOW Shenzhen, China jewelry.org.hk
WHO’S NEXT Paris
whosnext.com
16–19
6–10
ASIA’S FASHION JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR
Paris
jewelry.org.hk
MAISON & OBJET maison-objet.com
MIDORA
midora.de/en
cbq.qc.ca
7–11
28–30
Vicenza, Italy
PALAKIS SUMMER palakiss.com
Hong Kong
16–22
HONG KONG J EWELLERY & GEM FAIR Hong Kong
exhibitions. jewellerynet.com
London is calling Sept. 1–3.
Tokyo
japanjewelleryfair.com
29–31
AMBERMART
Gdańsk, Poland ambermart. amberexpo.pl
3–7
29–SEPT. 1
Melbourne, Australia
Colombo, Sri Lanka
reedgiftfairs.com.au
Madrid
Leipzig, Germany
JAPAN JEWELLERY FAIR
bkkgems.com
autumnfair.com
25–27 Montreal
64 th BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR
12–15
7–9
EXPO PRESTIGE
vicenzaoro.com/en
AUTUMN FAIR
jewelleryfair.com.au
mijf.com.my
REED GIFT FAIR
1–4
Vicenza, Italy
FACETS SRI LANKA facetssrilanka.com
JULY / AUGUST 2019
6/26/19 3:55 PM
43
the industry authority
JULY / AUGUST 2019
FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE
SHOP TALK CORPOREAL AFFAIRS
Art for the body—of all kinds—takes center stage at Divination Tattoo & Gallery
F
BY EMILI VESILIND
CHELSEA LANE PHOTOGRAPHY
OR MANY BR ANDS and retailers on the fine jewelry trade-show circuit, Liz Kantner is a familiar face. Since 2016, the digital marketing whiz has consulted with dozens of emerging jewelry designers and has curated entire sections of trade shows— including the New Designer Gallery at JA New York and a designer-centric section at the Premier show, which debuted during Las Vegas Jewelry Week in June. A bona fide jewelry influencer with a unique and edgy point of view (and nearly 34,000 Instagram followers at press time), the 31-year-old has become an in-demand marketing and merchandising consultant within the industry. And in February, she added another title to her CV: retailer. Kantner and her partner, tattoo artist Chris Evans,
Liz Kantner Stay Gold at Divination divinationtattoo.com JCKONLINE.COM
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Shop Talk
INNOVATIVE RETAILER
44
(Above) Kantner displays pendants from Symbology by Alice Scott and Acanthus Jewelry.
“Tattooing to me is so similar to jewelry because they’re both fundamentally adornment.” —Liz Kantner
Why are tattoos and jewelry good bedfellows? Tattooing to me is so similar to jewelry because they’re both fundamentally adornment. If you get the right artist who understands the body, tattooing can be such a beautiful thing. And there are a lot of similarities between the two beyond adornment. Tattooing is a little behind in its marketing and technology, just like jewelry. JULY / AUGUST 2019
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And people are sometimes tied to old-school traditions in tattooing, which is also true in jewelry. Tell me about the jewelry collections you chose for the store, and why. I carry Margaret Cross—I’ve been a huge fan of hers for years. Her designs really speak to me because there’s so much meaning behind her pieces. She does [modern mourning jewelry] that uses materials like hair and ashes. I also have Claus Jewelry, and most of Erin Claus’ pieces are inspired by tattoo design, so that was a good fit. Acanthus is in the store, and was in my first New Designer Gallery [at JA]. I’ve felt super-connected to that collection ever since. Pieces from designer Jacki Holland are also in the shop—she uses gemstones and does things like crochet around them. I also have some vintage pieces that I’m selling from my own collection. People are really drawn to antique pieces; that’s an aspect I’m trying to grow. And we’re working with an
Asheville artist, Alice Scott, to do more custom-designed pieces. You choose a stone and tell her your intentions, and then she makes the piece with your intentions in mind. With choosing collections for the store, I knew exactly what I wanted and the price points I wanted. Right now, everything is under $600, with a core price of between $150 and $300. That’s what I can sell right now, and I hope my clients grow with me as we add more [higher-priced] pieces. You bought the building Divination is in—what drew you to it? We found the perfect building, and didn’t want to play the rent game. It’s a stone stand-alone structure, and it’s very old. We stripped it all down and it was a raw space with a concrete floor. It’s on this beautiful two acres, with an abandoned barn in the back in West Asheville. Inside, we’ve decorated it with all Victorian furnishings. I had shopped some estate sales in advance. We found this yellow sofa
and chairs set for something like $150 for the whole set. The jewelry cases are vintage. Some guy was selling them on Craigslist. You’re a digital marketer by trade— how are your online sales? I’ve been selling really well on my website. [Laughing] I’ve been thinking, this strategy that I teach people works! I think a lot of the online sales traffic is coming through the Divination Instagram feed; it’s a pretty engaged group of followers. And it’s amazing the amount of business you can do via DM on Instagram. Also, the tattoo artists we brought in are aesthetically in line with the jewelry we carry. I think that’s why it all works.
GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.
CHELSEA LANE PHOTOGRAPHY
opened a tattoo studio/jewelry store, Divination, in their recently adopted city of Asheville, N.C. Stay Gold at Divination, the official name of the jewelry side of the 900-square-foot shop, is merchandised with the kind of moody, talismanic, personal-feeling jewelry Kantner herself is drawn to. The newbie retailer has laid eyes on a lot of jewelry in the past decade, but says choosing collections for her very own shop was a cinch. “When you know who you are and what you love,” she says, “that part’s really easy.”
JCKONLINE.COM
6/26/19 3:58 PM
IL
SWEET INVESTMENTS BY EMILI VESILIND
Q: What styles or trends are you planning to invest in or eyeing for the 2019 holiday season? JASON BLAND CO-OWNER CROWN JEWELERS Staunton, Va. crownltd.net
a: We plan to invest in large colored stone rings in
Shop Talk
Proudly made in the USA Since 1951
LAURA SIPE CO-OWNER J.C. SIPE JEWELERS Indianapolis jcsipe.com
a: We have been getting requests for straight-line diamond bracelets again, and diamond yard necklaces have been selling well for us. I want to add to our selection with some new styles. Finally, lab-grown diamonds are coming on strong. I want to visit with growers and investigate what the companies are doing with finished jewelry. We are very open-minded regarding this area of growth.
various colors—they’re a hot seller right now—and vintage estate pieces. We are moving more vintage rings than other vintage pieces. The retro styles are coming back: Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and Victorian jewelry do well for us. The Art Nouveau–era jewelry is the most sought-after, but it’s quite rare.
KATHERINE COTTERILL MANAGER EAT GALLERY: EXQUISITE ART TREASURES Maysville, Ky. eatgallery.com
a: This year for the holidays we are looking to stock up on feminine designer jewelry with colored gemstones and fine pearls. Our clients expect the unexpected when they walk through our door, so we try to always keep an eye out for new designers with a unique take on classic jewelry!
DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.
JCKONLINE.COM
KEVIN MAYS CO-OWNER JOHN MAYS JEWELERS Fort Smith, Ark. johnmaysjewelers.com
a: I see diamonds being big, with staples like stud earrings and solitaire pendants leading the way. We have also seen that a lot of women want everyday pieces. They’re stepping up and making those high-end self-purchases for themselves, so we’ll be focusing a lot of our attention on Hearts On Fire diamond jewelry. We also feel that colored gemstones are making a huge resurgence.
World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry
516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com
SHOP TALK
STORE WE ADORE
46
27 HOWARD ST. NEW YORK CITY
Michele Varian’s home decor store is filled with treasures, including jewelry from 70 designers who share her passion for handmade objects of all kinds BY KATHY HENDERSON
JULY / AUGUST 2019
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T FIRST GLANCE, it might seem strange to sell fine jewelry alongside brass and copper chandeliers, silk throw pillows, and porcelain tableware. But the minute you walk into Michele Varian’s chic SoHo shop, the product mix makes perfect sense. Varian, a Detroit native who began her career in fashion before segueing into textile, lighting, and wallpaper design, sees jewelry as a natural complement to the other items on display. “Everything in the store is something that I personally chose,” she says, “and jewelry has always been a big part of the mix.”
TASTE MAKER A downtown girl since moving to New York City more than 30 years ago, Varian opened her first shop “almost on a whim” in 2001, when the wholesale market for her pillows and fabrics declined after 9/11. Ten years later, she nabbed her current space, two blocks from the loft she shares with her rock-star husband, Crash Test Dummies lead singer Brad Roberts. Behind etched-glass doors urging passersby to “shop small, shop local,” Varian’s whimsical screen-printed wallpaper descends from a 15-foothigh ceiling; below the selling floor, artisans fabricate her g orgeous metal lamps and light fixtures. From the
PORTRAIT: NICOLE FRANZEN; OTHER PHOTOS: COURTESY MICHELE VARIAN
MICHELE VARIAN
A
The store features a rotating selection of jewels from some 70 designers.
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“I’m interested in introducing jewelry to people who don’t ordinarily go into a jewelry store.” —Michele Varian
start, Varian envisioned the store as a home for emerging designers, including jewelry-makers. “A huge number of our customers are design professionals,” she says, “and I’m interested in introducing jewelry to people who don’t ordinarily go into a jewelry store.”
MIX MASTER Vintage glass cases scattered throughout the store display an eclectic selection of jewelry from some 70 emerging designers, including two of Varian’s employees, Hayley Schlesinger and Nadia Todorova. “The common element that appeals to me in everything we sell, not just jewelry, is being able to see the hand of the person who made it,” Varian says. Delicate 14k gold earrings, rings, and bracelets with tiny stones set in unique patterns are showcased atop rustic fabrics and miniature books; a nearby case is stocked with chunkier brass and mixed metal designs. Varian dislikes plated jewelry, feeling that the added layer “covers up the handmade quality,” and says she chooses pieces for their
Michele Varian works primarily with fine jewelers based in New York City and Los Angeles.
JCKONLINE.COM
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overall beauty, not the underlying value of the materials. For a shop specializing in high-end home accessories, the jewelry is well priced, with a sweet spot of $250 to $450.
COMMUNITY BUILDER Varian’s curiosity about the future of retailing has led her to host a series of in-store design seminars and publish interviews with tastemakers on MicheleVarian.com. These days, she’s in the shop an average of one day a week in order to make time for her design work and the launch of Guesst, an ambitious digital platform that will pair independent designers with brick-and-mortar stores offering space for pop-up shops. She recently separated her jewelry and interior design offerings into distinct Instagram feeds, @jewelryatmichelevarian and @michelevarian. “The combination of design [products] and jewelry works seamlessly in the store, but it’s difficult to get across online,” she says, noting that jewelry now accounts for almost 25 percent of her total sales. Varian’s ability to juggle so many product lines successfully is a testament to the appeal of her aesthetic. “I’m super selective,” she says with a laugh. “I only want pieces that strike me as exactly right, so there’s a consistency that our shopper understands and appreciates.”
DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.
JULY / AUGUST 2019
6/27/19 11:18 AM
Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving. “I’m Dave Kiselstein and I’m with J. Albert Johnson Jewelers in Fairfield, Connecticut. My family bought the business from Mr. Johnson in 1953. The business started in Bridgeport, Connecticut in 1915, making it 103 years old. My wife, Judy, and I have been operating the business as the owners for the last forty-five years. I made the decision to close my store because I’m seventy-two years old, the lease came through, and it just felt like a great time to retire. Dave & Judy Kiselstein
“Once I made the decision that it would be a going-out-of-business sale, I interviewed several of the different companies that offer this type of sale. I came to realize that Wilkerson was the one for me.” Dave Kiselstein J. Albert Johnson Jewelers Fairfield, CT
As one of the founding members of the Continental Buying Group (CBG), I’ve been aware of the Wilkerson sales for many, many years. And, some of my friends have actually used Wilkerson with great success. Once I made the decision that it would be a going-out-of-business sale, I interviewed several of the different companies that offer this type of sale. I came to realize that Wilkerson was the one for me. My consultant team consisted of Rick and Vicki. Rick handled all the advertising and we used things that I would have never thought about and so much more. In addition to Vicki being such a great sales woman, she helped my son and daughter-in-law in keeping the books and making sure the inventory being sold was accounted for in the correct way. She was also superb in displaying the cases. We’re five days away from the conclusion of the sale. Not only have we hit our first goal and our second goal, but we’re so close to hitting our third goal, which I think we’re going to hit in another day and a half. And then we still have two more days to go, which I think is really going to blow us out of the water. If you’re contemplating a sale like we just did, you really need to pick up the phone and call Rick Hayes at Wilkerson. He’ll talk you through it and give you the confidence you need to have to go through such a big experience.” -Dave Kiselstein
Contact us today for a free consultation! Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999. Or visit us at wilkersons.com.
49
the industry authority
JULY / AUGUST 2019
STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS
THE LOOK 1
2
3
POWER CUFF GIRLS 1/ Constellation cuff with aquamarine, black moonstones, and diamonds in 18k yellow and white gold; $165,530; Adam Foster; 314-7713390; fosterjewelry.com
4
2/ Cuff with aquamarines and diamonds in 18k and 24k yellow gold; $59,400; Victor Velyan; 213-955-5950; victorvelyan.com
5
3/ Aquamarine cuff with white enamel and diamonds in 18k yellow gold and platinum; price on request; David Webb; 212-421-3030; davidwebb.com
Watch out, Wonder Woman! These superhero-size gold and gemstone stunners are ready for their close-up.
4/ Cuff with tourmaline and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $120,000; Todd Reed; 303-442-6280; toddreed.com
BY RANDI MOLOFSKY
5/ Power bracelet with jade and tsavorite in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Crevoshay; 505-8982888; crevoshay.com
JCKONLINE.COM
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6/27/19 11:19 AM
the look
RED CARPET
50
CANNES-DO ATTITUDE Elle Fanning and Winnie Harlow rocked colored stone styles at the French film fest BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
ELLE FANNING
How amazing was Fanning’s Cannes fashion? Online commentators Tom + Lorenzo ran an Elle Fanning (in Dior Couture) vs. Elle Fanning (in Vivienne Westwood Couture) Red Carpet Showdown of the Week. (Dior won by a landslide.) Yet we think this opening ceremony look—a peach satin Gucci gown with floral embroidery—might be her best of the fest. And we love that she picked up on the heart jewelry trend with her Chopard cocktail ring.
WINNIE HARLOW
Jamaican-Canadian supermodel Winnie Harlow went full-on floral for Cannes’ annual amfAR gala. First, she donned a custom beadand tulle-topped gown by British designer Richard Quinn (it looks like a veritable explosion of flowers!). But the blooms didn’t stop there: Harlow accessorized with an entire suite of statement jewels—bracelet, ring, necklace, and earrings—from Fabergé’s Secret Garden collection.
Temptations ring with 47.81 ct. heart-shape purple tourmaline and 7.16 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold; price on request; Chopard; 800-CHOPARD; chopard.com
Secret Garden earrings with spinel, multicolored sapphires, emeralds, carved nephrite, and opals in 18k white gold; price on request; Fabergé; sales@faberge.com; faberge.com
Carved Heart rings with rhodolite garnet, moonstone, and amethyst in 18k gold; $3,400 (set of three); Theresa Kaz; theresa@theresakaz jewelry.com; theresa kazjewelry.com
UNDER $2,000
Single Puff Heart ring in amethyst with pink sapphire inset; $1,950; Brent Neale; 646-7456831; brentneale.com
UNDER $5,000 JULY / AUGUST 2019
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UNDER $2,500 Rock Candy Hologem cluster ear wire drops in 18k gold; $2,295; Ippolita; sales@ippolita.com; ippolita.com
Wildflower earrings with tanzanite leaves, diamonds, and carved pink opals, green opals, and chalcedony flowers in 18k gold; $58,020; Irene Neuwirth; 323-285-2000; ireneneuwirth.com
FANNING: MATT WINKELMEYER/GETTY; HARLOW: COURTESY OF FRED MONCEAU
UNDER $75,000
JCKONLINE.COM
6/27/19 11:21 AM
P. 212 - 764-2823
JCK Las Vegas Booth# 24087
info@cirari.com
the look
Q&A
52
Asks...
DANA BRONFMAN
The NYC-based designer is passionate about world travel and giving back to the community ANYONE WHO CARES about sustainable jewelry should know Dana Bronfman. Beyond using reclaimed and fair-mined gold and ethically sourced gems in her substantial designs—her Oculus open space and hammered finish are her signatures—she works behind the scenes for a host of causes: “The Mercury Free Mining Challenge, to find an alternative to mercury for artisanal miners; Pure Earth, which cleans up toxic pollution in the world’s poorest communities; and Publicolor, which empowers high-risk youth through design-based programs,” she says. “I love seeing how design education can change the world.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 32 Number of years in the biz: Seven. Describe your personal style: New York chic meets free spirit from the Southwest. The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: I’m probably still proudest of the Hollow ring because it launched the aesthetic that people recognize as mine today. Best piece of advice you ever received: “Don’t worry, be happy.” Worst piece of advice: “You should send your jewelry to a Kardashian.” First job ever: Wrangler at a guest ranch. It was the best job JULY / AUGUST 2019
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Twilight Dune Surfer earrings with moonstones, pink tourmaline, opal, and rutilated quartz
Asscher-cut pin with Oculus top and hammered sides
ever and entailed taking guests on horseback rides, taking care of the horses, and, yes, cleaning up after them. How did you get started designing jewelry? While traveling during college as a Spanish major, I began to discover unique and interesting jewelry from all parts of the world and was fascinated by the designs and stories. A few years later I decided to attend the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts. If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? I’d probably be working in the nonprofit sector. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: My yellow gold pavé Lipstick ring, hammered point ring, Hollow stacking band, gypsy-set palladium white gold hammered band with a rose-cut natural black diamond, Moon & Stars band in palladium white gold; a few tiny coin studs and my Long Faceted Drop earrings; the Hammered Open convertible Silhouette Chain necklace in oxidized sterling and 18 karat yellow gold. Five items on your desk right now: A pretty little cactus, notebook and pen, jewelry I’m about to ship out, some castings and gemstone parcels to play with, and a whole lot of messy papers! Five songs on your playlist: “Indestructible,” Robyn; “Cheap Thrills,” Sia; “20 Dollar,” M.I.A.; “Dance Yrself Clean,” LCD Soundsystem; “Speechless,” Lady Gaga. Exercise regimen: A combination of weight lifting, inclined treadmill power walks, and yoga. What did you have for breakfast? Espresso and White Moustache plain Greek yogurt with berries and superfood powder. Guilty pleasure: I’m obsessed with RuPaul’s Drag Race [pictured ]. Drink (daytime/evening): Espresso with hemp milk, cacao powder, lucuma, turmeric, and cinnamon; mezcal with an orange squeeze. First website you check every day (not your own!): The Skimm. Favorite place you’ve traveled: Too many! Barcelona, Berlin, Copenhagen, Tulum [pictured ], Jerusalem, Santa Fe. Scent: Le Labo Lys 41. How do you unwind? Meditation; yoga; taking walks; reading The Cut, Well+Good, and a few astrology blogs. I also love podcasts. My favorite is Oprah’s SuperSoul Sessions. Favorite movie: Thelma & Louise or Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid [pictured ]. Who would play you in your life story? Emma Stone. Hey, it’s my movie!
STONE: THEO WARGER/WIREIMAGE; TULUM: LUNAMARINA/ISTOCK/GETTY; BUTCH CASSIDY AND THE SUNDANCE KID: 20th CENTURY FOX FILM CORP./EVERETT
Australian opal ring in 18k fair-mined yellow gold, from the new Desert Glow collection
JCKONLINE.COM
7/1/19 6:06 PM
T R A PPE D B Y I N D U S TRY R EG U L ATI O N S & CO M PL IA N CE ?
WE’ L L H EL P YO U B RE A K TH RO U GH . Non-compliance with regulations can catch a company completely off guard. Being reactive is costly – both financially and to your reputation. JVC membership allows you to be proactive. Our staff attorneys are experts in jewelry industry regulations and compliance and are ready to assist you or your internal legal staff at any time.
BECOME A MEMBER OF JVC. To join, call 212.997.2002 or visit jvclegal.org.
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PROP STYLISTS: EMILY & TONY MULLIN/HELLO ARTISTS; STYLIST: DANIEL EDLEY/BRYDGES MACKINNEY; HAIR & MAKEUP: MIDORI SLIGH; MANICURE: ROSEANN SINGLETON/ART DEPARTMENT
FEATURES 14k white gold pendant with 39.9 ct. aquamarine and 9.25 cts. t.w. diamonds, $59,550, Couture by Ashi, 212-319-8291, ashidiamonds.com; ring with 20.11 ct. aquamarine and 0.64 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $25,120, Doron Paloma, 888-6636837, doronpaloma. com; 18k white gold ring with 1.06 ct. emerald, 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds, 0.78 ct. t.w. onyx, and 3.78
cts. t.w. rock crystal, $2,300, Cirari by Color Jewels, 212-764-2823, cirari. com; ring with 2.12 cts. t.w. grandidierite, 2.46 cts. t.w. alexandrite, and 0.63 ct. t.w. diamonds in platinum with rhodium, $140,000, Omi Privé, 877-6644367, omiprive.com; Art Deco Track 18k white gold bracelet with 148.04 cts. t.w. crystal, 19.03 cts. t.w. emeralds, and 8.71 cts. t.w. diamonds, $30,000, Umrao, 212-575-4727
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Photograph by Joel Stans
6/27/19 11:34 AM
GET YOUR ROCKS ON
FROM AIRY WRAPAROUND RINGS TO BREEZY OPEN BANGLES TO SLEEK SIGNET-STYLE RINGS, THESE SUPERCHIC DIAMOND DESIGNS ARE PERFECT FOR SUMMER…AND FALL AND WINTER AND SPRING
by Randi Molofsky Digital art by Alfredo Ceballos
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WRAP RINGS (This page) Spiral diamond ring in 14k yellow gold, $1,225, Zoë Chicco, 213-4891226, zoechicco.com; (opposite page, from top) Toi & Moi diamond and cacholong ring in 18k rose gold, $7,400, de Grisogono, 212-4394220, degrisogono.com; Spiral ring with 1.26 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $7,872, Djula, 646-869-9585, djula.fr; diamond ouroboros ring in 18k yellow gold, $13,800, Gucci, 877-482-2430, gucci.com; Mercury diamond ring in 18k white gold, $10,500, Monica Rich Kosann, 888-653-9047, monicarichkosann.com
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OPEN BANGLES (Clockwise from far l.) Ascension Illusion open bangle with black and white diamonds in 18k gold, $3,950, Graziela Gems, 800-961-1170, grazielagems.com; Happy Hearts diamond bangle in 18k rose gold, $5,920, Chopard, 305-774-3898, chopard.com; T wire bracelet in 18k rose gold with diamonds, $3,400, Tiffany & Co., 800-843-3269, tiffany. com; Phoenician Script pink diamond and ruby bangle in 18k rose gold, $7,245, Ralph Masri, sales@ralphmasri.com, ralphmasri.com; Shell bracelet in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $3,705, Yvonne Leon, 33-1-43253639, yvonneleon.com
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ALL STARS (Clockwise from far r.) Galaxy diamond and black enamel ring in 18k yellow gold, $5,178, Colette, 323-525-1738, colettejewelry.com; Mystic large diamond star pendant in 18k white gold, $3,300, Nouvel Heritage, contact@nouvelheritage. com, nouvelheritage.com; diamond star ring
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in 18k white gold, $19,000, Jochen Pohl Jewellery, 49-678-135886, jochenpohl.com; champagne diamond band in sterling silver with black rhodium, $1,990, 925Suneera, 310-5985010, 925suneera.com; black and white diamond starburst drop earrings, $6,050, Sydney Evan, 213-236-4444, sydneyevan.com
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INITIAL RINGS (From top) Forget-Me-Not oval signet ring in 18k rose gold with 0.12 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,100, Jade Trau, 212-7193333, jadetrau.com; Grand Diamond Frame Secret Initial ring with quartz in 14k yellow gold, $2,500, Mateo, sales@mateonewyork.
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com, mateonewyork. com; diamond ring in rhodium-plated silver, $3,400, Lynn Ban, info@lynnban.com, lynnban.com; signet ring in 18k rose gold with diamonds, $2,900, Emily P. Wheeler, 646-7456831, emilypwheeler. com; partial pavĂŠ initial pinky ring with diamonds in 18k rose gold, $3,990, Shay, 424-777-0210, shayfinejewelry.com
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(BACKGROUNDS FROM FIRST PAGE) YIBAOTV/ISTOCK/GETTY; DIGOARPI/ISTOCK/GETTY; GERENME/ISTOCK/GETTY; COFFEEKAI/ISTOCK/GETTY; EASYTURN/ISTOCK/GETTY
SINGLE EARRINGS
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(Clockwise from far l.) Arche diamond earring in 18k yellow gold, $4,600, Gaelle Khouri, info@gaellekhouri. com, gaellekhouri.com; Winter Frost diamond earring in 18k white gold, $15,000, Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen, 45-39460300, olelynggaard.com; Python diamond ear cuff in 18k white gold, $10,900, Akillis, info@akillis.fr, akillis.fr; Suspensions diamond earring in 18k rose gold, price on request, Repossi, info@ repossi.com, repossi.com; Izabel diamond earring in 18k yellow gold, $12,250, Ana Khouri, 646-9984840, anakhouri.com
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SPOTLIGHT
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THE NEW
DIAMOND BASICS
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D E M A N D F O R D I A M O N D J E W E L RY I S C O N S TA N T — B U T I T ’ S T I M E TO U P D A T E Y O U R S H O P P I N G L I S T. I N F A C T, Y O U M I G H T E V E N C O N S I D E R T O S S I N G T H O S E T E N N I S B R A C E L E T S I N T O T H E V A U L T. H E R E A R E T H E S T A P L E S Y O U S H O U L D B E STOCKING UP ON INSTEAD.
by Amy Elliott
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LENTY OF RETAILERS rely on the timeless appeal of round studs, tennis bracelets, and other diamond jewelry basics. But while readily available, they’ve become too vanilla to entice today’s millennial and Gen Z customers. “The younger generation prefers to spend their budget on a few pieces for layering and not blow it all on a single piece like a high-carat-weight tennis bracelet,” says Nan Lung Palmer, owner and managing director of Facets, a Denver-based jewelry sales and marketing consultancy. Jewelry industry veteran and former JCK editor Peggy Jo Donahue has witnessed a version of this cultural shift before. “I distinctly remember the days when Julia Child–style French cooking reigned supreme,” she recalls. Then, she adds, classic French cuisine suddenly fell out of favor in the mid-1980s. The publication of Sheila Lukins and Julee Rosso’s The Silver Palate Cookbook in 1982 exposed home chefs to the wonders of pesto, gazpacho, and Chicken Marbella, and “we were using clever shortcuts to lessen the complications,” Donahue says. “A similar shift is happening in jewelry: Formal basics are giving way to easy-to-wear diamond pieces that are worn with insouciance and in multiples.” So what should your diamond “pantry” look like now? Here, we show you the new essentials.
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INSTEAD OF
Round Diamond Studs TRY
Mix-and-Match Diamond Studs Today’s trend-savvy consumer prefers to wear studs in diverse shapes and motifs in a mismatched “ear stack.” While the symmetry of traditional round diamond studs—one in each ear—is a classic look, shoppers tend to focus on acquiring the best and largest diamonds they can afford. With the mixand-match approach, your customers can experience the romance and joy of curating a trio or quartet that reflects their individuality. Seek out companies that offer diamond studs in different shapes and styles that can be sold as singles. Pro tip: Baguette cuts are regarded as a fresh new alternative to rounds. “For the younger generation, as they look to accrue a jewelry box with pieces that will stand the test of time but still feel relevant, baguette diamonds hit the mark,” says Alysa Teichman, vice president of business development at Texas-based jewelry retailer Ylang 23.
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Diamond Solitaire Pendants TRY
1. Mystic Star studs with diamonds in 18k rose gold; $1,200; Nouvel Heritage; contact@nouvelheritage.com; nouvelheritage.com 2. Diamond Crescent Moon earrings in 14k white gold; $546; Stuller; sales@stuller.com; stuller.com 3. Bullet Essential stud and Tapered Coffin stud with diamonds in 18k gold; $1,495 each; Diana Mitchell; diana@dianamitchell. com; dianamitchell.com
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Cluster Necklaces We’ve noticed a number of designers giving the classic diamond solitaire pendant a modern face-lift with subtle tweaks like replacing the clawlike prongs with a sleek bezel setting, or removing the prongs entirely and “pricking” the stone with the tiniest of bales (see Catbird’s best-selling Diamond Pinprick necklace). Stringing the pendant on a ball chain also goes a long way toward making the standard style feel less basic. But here’s the thing: Younger shoppers generally prefer the look of multiple small stones versus a single big gem. As such, cluster pendants are quietly nudging their solitaire counterparts to the back of the case. In fact, clusters that feature a gathering of baguettes are approaching icon status, a look that originated with Suzanne Kalan’s award-winning, hugely influential Fireworks collection. “Whether they’re triplets lined up in a row or are grouped together more freely, there’s no denying the power of three or more diamonds versus one,” says Lauren Eggertsen, fashion editor at Who What Wear, known for its addictive fashion, shopping, and celebrity style content.
4. Fireworks Small Sparkler necklace with diamonds in 18k white gold; $1,400; Suzanne Kalan; customerservice@suzannekalan. com; suzannekalan.com 5. Mosaic collection necklace with round baguette diamonds in 14k white gold; $1,400; KC Designs; info@kcdesignsnyc.com; kcdesignsnyc.com 6. Starlet Smile Bar necklace with diamonds in 18k gold; $3,495; Ippolita; sales@ippolita.com; ippolita.com
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Diamond Open-Heart Pendants TRY
Initial Pendants Sad but true: If you’ve ever had to sort through a departed family member’s jewelry box, quite often there’s an openspace diamond heart in there that feels straight out of a Who’s the Boss? or Golden Girls episode (read: unwearable). It’s not that hearts themselves are out; it’s the generic (geriatric?) quality of this particular look. So stock up on another no-fail diamond giftable: the initial or monogram pendant. Available at all price points and captured in a variety of compelling design concepts, this heirloom-worthy option is a much more youthful take on sentimental jewelry and a smart buy because it casts a wider net: Initials are appropriate for customers of all ages and a variety of occasions, from bat mitzvahs and sweet sixteens to births, anniversaries, milestone birthdays, and beyond. 7. Fob Charm with diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $3,500; Jade Trau; 212-719-3333; jadetrau.com 8. 3rd Eye flip pendant with 1.28 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $3,200; Eden Presley; sales@edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com 9. Lusso fashion necklace with pavé diamonds in 14k white gold; $475; Gabriel & Co.; cs@gabrielny.com; gabrielny.com
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INSTEAD OF
Tennis Bracelets TRY
Pavé Link Bracelets Yes, diamond line or tennis bracelets are a time-honored signifier of status since they came into vogue in the late ’70s (thanks to women’s tennis champ Chris Evert). Problem is, the younger consumer thinks this piece has “grandma” written all over it. And the older consumer already has one (or a few) in her rotation. Fortunately, there’s a new glamazon in town, and it’s just as luxe but more distinctive. The pavé link bracelet not only has a consciously vintage vibe—see Verdura’s curb-link bracelets for Greta Garbo—but also makes a graphic and wildly glittery statement. “Pavé anything right now is the modern update for moving diamonds into your collection,” affirms JB Jones, cofounder of NYC Jewelry Week.
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Huggie Hoops TRY
Charm Huggies & Ear Cuffs Diamond hoops of all sizes are eternally appealing, but there’s something about the huggie hoop earring that’s starting to feel a tad old-fashioned. Accordingly, some consumers are swinging in the opposite direction, opting for the glamour of an oversize pavé hoop.
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The best alternatives don’t stray too drastically from the archetype, with its petite, understated profile. “The new, cooler huggie is one that has a charm drop,” says Eggertsen. “You get the effect and feel of a diamond huggie, with the addition of some movement and a tiny bit more glamour.” And then there’s the no-piercing-required diamond ear cuff, the evolution of the huggie in the extreme. While both earring styles share the same DNA, the cuff is like the cooler little sister who knows all the best bands and hot spots; it’s the Madewell to the traditional huggie’s J.Crew. “You can play with its location on the ear,” explains Jones. “Worn alone or as part of a diamond earscape, it’s also a way to hit on the asymmetrical trend.”
10. Large Cuban Link bracelet with diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $15,600; Bakti; info@baktijewelry. com; baktijewelry.com 11. Pavé Roman Holiday bracelet with diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $6,500; Ariel Gordon; wholesale@ariel gordonjewelry.com; arielgordonjewelry.com 12. Baby Pavé Link bracelet with diamonds in 18k white gold; $3,780; Shay; 424-777-0210; shayfinejewelry.com
15 13. Nazca Dangle hoops with diamond pavé and drops in blackened 18k white gold; $5,320 (sold as a pair); Eva Fehren; alec@evafehren. com; evafehren.com 14. Diamond Wave ear cuff in 18k rose gold; $1,700; Anita Ko; info@anitako.com; anitako.com 15. Diamond Mini Shaker hoop in 14k gold; $1,400 (sold singly); Jacquie Aiche; sales@jacquieaiche.com; jacquieaiche.com
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PICK OF THE GLITTER
C RY S TA L - C L E A R A Q U A M A R I N E S , E XQ U I S I T E EMERALDS, AND A MAGNIFICENT MELO PEARL ARE J U S T A F EW O F T H E Y E A R’S B E S T - I N - S H OW J EW E L S
Photography by Joel Stans P r o p S t y l i s t s E m i l y + To n y M u l l i n Stylist Daniel Edley Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi
Necklace with 188.21 cts. t.w. emeralds, 13.05 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 8.62 cts. t.w. onyx in 18k white gold, $38,000, Umrao, 212-575-4727; Heritage collection Muisca earrings (as bracelets) with 35.74 cts. t.w. emeralds and 1.71 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $14,000, Muzo Emerald, 212218-3136, muzo.co
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68 Sun & Sky earrings with 13.68 cts. t.w. trillion imperial topaz, 9.93 cts. t.w. pearcut aquamarines, and 2.02 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k rose and white gold, $15,500, Dallas Prince Designs, 310-625-0200, dallas princedesigns@ gmail.com, dallas princedesigns.com; 14k white gold pendant with 39.9 ct. aquamarine and 9.25 cts. t.w. diamonds, $59,550, Couture by Ashi, 212-319-8291, ashidiamonds.com
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Ring with 14.1 cts. t.w. multicolored sapphires and 25.57 ct. black opal in platinum, price on request, VTse, 626-577-9288, vtsejewelry.com
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HeartStrings earrings with 31 cts. t.w. rhodolite garnets and 5.83 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white and rose gold, $82,194, Uneek, 213-622-5119, uneekjewelry.com; ring with 0.93 ct. t.w. diamonds, 1.4 ct. rubellite, and 3.41 cts. t.w. motherof-pearl in 18k rose gold, $7,074, Yael Designs, 415-989-9235, yaeldesigns.com
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71 The Bow necklace with 11.6 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in platinum, $90,000, Lark & Berry, 44-207-487-4441, larkandberry.com
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72 Art Deco pin with 1 ct. t.w. diamonds set on 18k yellow gold bracelet, $15,000, Just Jules, 480-860-6211, just jules.com; platinum ring with 19.6 mm x 19.4 mm natural Melo pearl and 1.53 cts. t.w. diamonds, $74,990, Tara Pearls, 800-2352790, tarapearls. com; 18k rose gold ring with 1.75 cts. t.w. rubies and 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,955, Couture by Ashi, 212-319-8291, ashidiamonds.com
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MAKEUP: MIDORI SLIGH FOR R&CO.; MANICURIST: ROSEANN SINGLETON FOR CHANEL/ART DEPARTMENT
Earrings with 27.82 cts. t.w. emeralds, 7.28 cts. t.w. rubies, and 5.18 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $74,000, Andreoli, 212-5822050, andreoliusa. com; Heritage collection Atocha necklace with 69.53 cts. t.w. emeralds and 0.86 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $28,800, Muzo Emerald, 212-218-3136, muzo. co; ring with 28.77 ct. bicolor tourmaline and 1.63 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold, $35,000, VTse, 626-577-9288, vtsejewelry.com
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Botswana President Mokgweetsi Masisi and first lady Neo Masisi
Yellow Royal Explosion ring with oval citrine, round blue topaz, and diamonds; $2,250; Anomy; info@ anomypearls.com; anomypearls.com
BEST OF THE
WEST
THE BIGGEST NEWS, HOTTEST TRENDS, AND MOST E Y E - C AT C H I N G E X H I B I T S AT J C K & L U X U RY 2 0 1 9
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COOLEST COLLECTIVE: GREEK JEWELS
The show featured lots of untapped talent under the Greek Jewels banner. The diverse collective, encompassing the work of 14 Greek designers showing for the first time at the JCK and Luxury shows, was supported by Enterprise Greece, a state organization that promotes high-end Greek products and services. All well-established but new to the U.S., the artists favored evil eyes, goddess-worthy statement jewels, references to Greek mythology, and colorful enamels evocative of Mykonos
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and Santorini. Textured metalwork, especially gold mixed with oxidized s ilver, was also a theme. Designers such as Anomy Pearls and Fa Cad’oro embraced the grandeur of gemstones, from Munsteiner-cut quartz to rainbow sapphires. —AMY ELLIOTT
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MOST DIGNIFIED GUESTS: MOKGWEETSI & NEO MASISI
The JCK shows have hosted many prominent visitors, but never an a ctual head of state—until this year, when Mokgweetsi Masisi, the president of Botswana, and his wife, Neo, visited the
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Center of My Universe floral halo ring with 1.13 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold; starting at $8,595; Forevermark; 203-388-3544; forevermark.com
show, tailed by an impressive retinue of security. At the Forevermark breakfast on May 30, the first lady—a former worker at a Botswana mine—gave a candid and engaging account of how diamond revenue has transformed her country. The next day, her husband struck the same note in his keynote speech—though his talk was temporarily interrupted by a protester enraged by Botswana’s recent decision to allow elephant hunting. By the end, Masisi returned to diamonds, a subject that clearly means a lot to him, and to his country. “When you wear a gem,” he said, “you carry a bit of Botswana with you. Please care about it. Because we care about it.” —ROB BATES
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BEST BRIDAL DEBUT: FOREVERMARK
Inside its sprawling suite at Luxury, Forevermark showcased its fi rst finished collection created entirely by the De Beers–owned diamond jewelry brand— and it was a stunner. The Forevermark Engagement & Commitment collection is composed of 11 classic-feeling wedding bands and 17 on-trend engagement ring styles with center diamonds
14k yellow gold ring with 3.93 ct. oval cabochon chrysoprase and 0.17 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,550; Artistry Ltd.; 888-674-3250; artistrylimited.com
in round, oval, and cushion shapes ranging from 0.3 ct. to 1 ct. (the company showed a tantalizing tray of rings fit with multicarat diamonds from partner Premier Gem, which are available through special order). The brand hopes the collection’s name feels inclusive, and reflects a shift in consumer attitudes: “Forever is no longer a fairy-tale ending,” said Forevermark U.S. president Charles Stanley in a statement, “and is instead created through the commitments that a couple makes to one another daily.” Pragmatism never looked so romantic. —EMILI VESILIND
BRIGHTEST GEMSTONE 4 TREND: CHRYSOPRASE
The fall 2019 catwalks heralded the return of a controversial ’80s fashion trend: neon. But rather than advocate a head-to-toe embrace of fluorescents, many stylists suggest their clients show a little restraint and opt for neon accessories. Enter chrysoprase, the apple-green chalcedony whose bright green glow lit up collections all over Las Vegas. Named for the Greek words for gold and green, the gem is beloved
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9 Nocturnal diamond wrap ring with 0.23 ct. t.w. labgrown diamonds in 14k gold; $1,150; Lark & Berry; 44-207-487-4441; larkandberry.com
5 The bustling first floor of the Sands Expo on opening day of JCK Las Vegas
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8 A tiny Lego customer and tiny Lego retailer, along with life-size jewelry, in Omi Privé’s showcase Margaux Lange’s Aqua and Red Plume Smile necklace made of salvaged Barbie doll, sterling silver, and resin ($1,200; ombregallery.com)
MOKGWEETSI MASISI, SHOW FLOOR, OMI PRIVÉ CASE: PHOTOGRAPHS BY CAMILLA SJODIN; NEO MASISI: COURTESY OF FOREVERMARK
Top: a Le Vian Red Carpet Revue model; right: waiter Diego and his daughter Isabella
by d esigners for its cheerful good looks. “I’ve been drawn to chrysoprase for several years,” says Victoria Tse, who debuted a bracelet and ring at Luxury set with Greenland chrysoprase that’s surprisingly in demand. “The miner I purchased from contacted me a few months later to see if they could buy the gems back.” —VICTORIA GOMELSKY
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MOST POPULAR CHANGE: JCK’S NEW-OLD HOME
Location, location, location! JCK and Luxury showgoers were, by all a ccounts, thrilled to be back at the Sands and Venetian, smack in the middle of The Strip, where all the action is: cooler bars, loads of restaurants, and comfy suites. And let’s not forget the shows, which were easier than ever to navigate. Exhibitors and attendees alike appreciated the thoughtful touches throughout—everything from bottled water to rest-and-recharge stations to Mamava nursing pods. Bonus: If you were staying at the Venetian, the walk to the show took only a few minutes—giving you extra time to gaze at all that jewelry. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
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TEARJERKER: 6 LEBIGGEST VIAN’S FASHION SHOW
The Le Vian Red Carpet Revue—a trend presentation plus a h igh-energy fashion show—is an institution at JCK Las Vegas. But this year’s event, marking the 20th anniversary of Le Vian’s Chocolate Diamonds collection, struck a quieter, more poignant tone. CEO Eddie LeVian announced the company would match donations for children’s and cancer charities up to $175,000 in honor of his nephew Rafael Etessami, who died of stomach cancer last year. A billionaire attendee pledged $200,000, but it was a much more modest donation that brought the audience to its feet: Diego, a waiter working the event, pledged $200 on behalf of his father, who’d died of cancer. The evening, which raised a total of $450,000, concluded on the ultimate feel-good note, with the billionaire donor offering the server a job. —VG
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BIGGEST CLIFFHANGER: RAPNET’S SYNTHETIC VOTE
For most of the show, a question rumbled through the lab-grown section: What will happen with Rapaport? Prior
to JCK, RapNet polled its members on whether the trading network should open its doors to man-made gems, and whether it should publish a lab-grown price list. Owner Martin Rapaport promised to announce the results at his annual Sunday-morning speech. But in the end it wasn’t close. By a 3-to-1 margin, RapNet members declared loudly and clearly that they didn’t want RapNet extending any kind of welcome mat. In retrospect, the result was probably preordained, given the continuing antipathy from many tradespeople— including Rapaport—toward manmade gems: After Rapaport announced the results, the audience cheered. —RB
MOST ENGAGING 8 DISPLAY: OMI PRIVÉ
It can be difficult to explain the path a gem takes from mine to market. So the sales team at Omi Privé, purveyors of fine colored stone jewelry, opted to show the journey instead. Using Lego figures and dollhouse furniture (including an actual cutting wheel!), the brand created a clever window display at its Luxury booth that delighted passersby with its
whimsical approach to storytelling: A miniature mine littered with rough was one of several tableaux depicting the various stages a gem passes through before it’s sold at retail. “We wanted to show how many hands are involved in the process,” said president Niveet Nagpal. “We’re trying to get people to stop and think about what we do.” —VG
ARTSIEST SHOW-WITHIN9 A-SHOW: GLOSSY
Your eyes weren’t deceiving you: Those were Lego and Barbie dolls on display in The Plumb Club. Presented by Cincinnati’s Ombré Gallery, Glossy— comprising 75 works of contemporary jewelry by 25 artists—showcased colorful statement pieces crafted in vintage rhinestones and steel (Everett Hoffman), repurposed skateboards (Tara Locklear), Lego blocks (Emiko Oye), acrylic and magazines (Jennifer Merchant), salvaged Barbies (Margaux Lange), and more. “The majority of the work was created specifically for this exhibition,” says Jenna Shaifer, director-owner of Ombré Gallery, where Glossy is now running through Aug. 23. —MRB
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J C K WO U L D B E N OW H E R E W I T H O U T T H E I N D U S T RY I N S I D E R S W H O H AV E H E L P E D T H E M A G A Z I N E A L O N G T H E WAY — B Y M A K I N G T H E NEWS, READING IT IN OUR PAGES, OR BOTH. SO WE ASKED 150 OF T H E M TO J O I N T H E D I A LO G U E A B O U T H OW T H E J EW E L RY BU S I N E S S H A S C H A N G E D O V E R T H E D E C A D E S A N D T H E R O L E W E H AV E P L AY E D I N T H AT E V O L U T I O N . H E R E A R E T H E F I F T H 2 5 .
150 Y EA RS 150 VO I C ES by Brittany Siminitz
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PINK ELEPHANT & TIPSY WRITER MANEATER RING WITH 262 PINK SAPPHIRES, 174 BROWN DIAMONDS, 3 WHITE DIAMONDS, AND 1 RUBY IN 18K ROSE, YELLOW, AND WHITE GOLD, WENDY BRANDES
“My fateful day came in 1988, when George Holmes hired me to become JCK ’s new New York editor, working on the corner of 53rd and Seventh alongside the great Cindy Edelstein as well as Bill Furman, Lee Lawrence, Charles Bond, and the JCK sales staff. I learned almost everything I needed to know about the industry from George and Debbie Holmes, Bill Shuster, Russell Shor, Hedda Schupak, Bob Weldon, and of course Peggy Jo Donahue. JCK was a fast-paced workplace that valued in-depth questioning and reportage. The (nonmobile) phones were almost always ringing or in use, and George always had more than a few multipart investigative-style features cooking. Many of these stories— planned months in advance and scrupulously reported—won awards, and I was proud to be part of a few of them.”
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“JCK writers and editors were among my earliest supporters, even though I was so different from many of the brands they typically covered. When they saw potential in me, I saw more of it in myself.” —WENDY BRANDES, owner and president, Wendy Brandes Fine Jewelry
—MICHAEL THOMPSON, editor-in-chief, International Watch
“With the rise of social media, it is much easier to reach potential clients across the globe and to advertise to a specific audience. This also means you have to find a way to spark their interest within a few seconds as their attention spans have shrunk. Social media has also encouraged industry specialists like gem dealers to reach out to the end consumer, which can occasionally lead to jewelers losing business. Nowadays, it’s all about the customer experience. Where once Champagne and canapés, along with a small discount, was sufficient to make a good sale, now it’s more about what brands can offer their customers by way of entertainment.” —KATERINA PEREZ, founder and editor-in-chief, KaterinaPerez.com
••• “I used to freelance for dozens of slick, thick international jewelry magazines, chock-full of glorious editorial. Most of them are gone now. Kudos to JCK for surviving the purge and adapting.”
—DEBORAH YONICK, veteran jewelry writer
••• “The most important change came when De Beers ended the generic advertising of diamonds that drove the market for decades. Those amazing commercials that talked of the romance and mystery of diamonds are gone, leaving succeeding generations without the lore and understanding of the value of diamonds. We all count on JCK to give us the facts, regardless of how unpleasant or controversial they may be at times.” —TERRY CHANDLER, president and CEO, Diamond Council of America
••• “I immediately became aware of JCK magazine when we opened in 1985 because there was so much I wanted to know about retailing and jewelry, and it was the source. I love JCK ’s editors and writers and feel honored when I’m asked to comment on anything having to do with the industry. JCK has remained dedicated to being the authority on the jewelry industry and at the same time has evolved to offer content online, which makes delivering the news constant.”
—JOANNE TEICHMAN, owner and managing director, Ylang 23
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“I’m a novice to the jewelry industry: My background is in e-commerce technology and brand strategy. So you can imagine what a learning curve I faced when I took the helm at Charles & Colvard in late 2015. But thankfully I had JCK to lean on. I voraciously consumed every edition and every newsletter to learn about this amazing, complicated, brilliant industry.”
—SUZANNE MIGLUCCI, president and CEO, Charles & Colvard
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“Electronics and experiences are competing with jewelry and luxury goods for consumer dollars, and people want to know that what they buy helps communities and the world. We must tell the story of the good that gems and jewelry—and our industry—are doing.” —ANNA MARTIN, senior vice president of global business development and beneficiation, GIA
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“On an industry-related tour of s outhern Africa in 2006, Nelson Mandela personally encouraged Russell Simmons and me to establish an international nonprofit organization that would focus on the ‘Diamonds Do Good’ reality and narrative in Africa and t hroughout the world. So we, along with other industry leaders, founded the Diamond Empowerment Fund. Global consumers are much more socially conscious today than they were a decade ago. The future of the industry…is directly related to empowering diamond and jewelry communities. The ‘Diamonds Do Good’ message will be even more vital in the years ahead.”
••• “JCK was my primer, a tutor in my introduction to this fascinating industry. At every step in my career, JCK has been there to provide insight. And it is still a valued resource for my continued learning—having a go-to publication with an insider’s view is enormously valuable.” —CRAIG SELIMOTIC ANFORTH, vice president D of client solutions, Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group
—BENJAMIN CHAVIS, cofounder, Diamond Empowerment Fund
“JCK is one of the most respected magazines in the industry. Black, Starr & Frost was honored to be mentioned in the magazine several times, somewhere between 100 and 150 years ago. [This anniversary] is a celebration of a magazine that has provided mentorship to all of us.” —ALFREDO J. MOLINA, chairman and CEO, Molina Fine Jewelers and Black, Starr & Frost
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“JCK has meant different things to me over the years because I’ve worked in so many different roles in this industry. When I was a sales rep lugging $2 million in jewelry across the c ountry, I’d seek out articles about crime or heists. When I was a buyer for a retail store, I’d read trend pieces. When I was an executive with an internet company, I’d look for t ech-related articles. That’s the beauty of the magazine: No matter what a person does, there is something to read.” —BARBARA PALUMBO, founder and editor, WhatsOnHerWrist and Adornmentality
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••• “I am proud that I work in an industry that has a publication as informative and beautiful as JCK. I am thrilled when I read about our members’ successes or see their products or stores featured within the vibrant and glossy pages. Early in my career, when I was included in an article, I would save a copy to show my parents because it was a milestone, and it gave me a huge sense of pride.” —KATHERINE BODOH, CEO, American Gem Society and AGS Laboratories
••• “The evolution of marketing and the significant role it now plays in the industry at large has been one of the most dramatic changes in the industry. For many years, print was the dominant media, with broadcast being used only by some firms. The proliferation of alternative media and communication vehicles in today’s market represents a true sea change.” —MICHAEL C. BARLERIN, director, Silver Promotion Service
••• “JCK does an amazing job of featuring deserving up-and-coming designers and new industry concepts while creating a c ommunity where designers, retailers, and aficionados can come together.”
—STEPHANIE GOTTLIEB, founder and designer, Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry
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“I have now been in this industry for over 33 years. So much has changed that sometimes the only way I recognize what we do is by looking at the actual gems; they change the least. Despite the challenges, I find it exciting and the process of adapting to new normals rewarding.” —ANDREA HANSEN, founder, Luxe Intelligence
••• “My entire career in this industry spans 38 years. For those of us who have been here a long time, we’ve seen many evolutions—no different than life itself. What has been constant is that we’re in the business of people and celebrations.”
—KATHY GRENIER, vice president of business development, Imperial Pearl
RARE VICTORIAN EMERALD AND DIAMOND BROOCH CIRCA 1880, BLACK, STARR & FROST; EFFY HEMATIAN 18K WHITE GOLD DIAMOND EARRINGS, $34,997, EFFY JEWELRY
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“As an author, gemologist, researcher, and historian, the internet provides me with tools that I could only dream of when I began my career 40 years ago. At the same time, it has become a tool that has produced dumbed-down publications and news to consumers that, in some ways, seem more poorly educated than decades ago. We have moved from books—which could be read a thousand years or more after publication—to news served up via short-attention-span machines like Facebook. I am confident publishing will survive. But we are in a transition period, and the current model will have to change as it does not serve well the end user.” —RICHARD HUGHES, cofounder, Lotus Gemology
79 ••• “The jewelry industry has seen remarkable changes in the past 30-plus years since I started working. Then, the landscape was filled with family-owned jewelry stores on Main Street that were open five, maybe six days a week. Shopping mall expansion added more doors to our mix as our department store partners and national and regional chains jumped full force into malls across the country. In the independent retail channel, many of the younger generations abandoned their family businesses for other career paths, and doors started to close. We are all now adjusting to the new normal. The more nimble and stronger independent retailers have adapted to the changes by offering the one thing their customers can’t get online: superior p roduct knowledge and impeccable, personal customer service.”
—JEFFREY COHEN, president, Citizen Watch America
••• “My first exposure to JCK was as a graduate student working p art-time at a jewelry store. When the new issue arrived, I remember being curious as to why everyone wrestled for their turn to grab hold and flip the pages. I quickly discovered that JCK was ‘the word’ on emerging designers, events, business opportunities, and new jewelry collections.” —DIANE WARGA-ARIAS, president, DWA Communications
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“The first time I read JCK was in 1981: I was reading old issues at the library to familiarize myself with the industry. Even then I saw how they tailored their stories to the needs and interests of the jewelry industry. JCK ’s stories encourage us to stick by the traits that have kept this industry alive over the past centuries—credibility, honesty, and passion—and allow us to dream about how we can evolve and transform to adapt to the changing society around us.” —ROGER DERY, president, Roger Dery Gem Design; executive director, Gem Legacy
••• “From the editorial to the ads for GIA education, JCK helped me dream beyond the counter of a retail store. I always looked at each issue as a capsule in time—a lookbook of what was hot that month. I have a m assive archive of issues dating back a decade, through size changes and various colors of the binding. JCK is the only magazine I hoard. I remember when [ JCK editor-in-chief ] Victoria Gomelsky did a story on me and others making a community on Instagram around five years ago—it was my ‘Look, Ma, I’ve made it’ moment.” —BENJAMIN GUTTERY, founder and curator, Third Coast Gems
••• “I remember collecting back issues of JCK from the offices and bookshelves of my new colleagues and combing through them to develop a perception of the industry I had joined. I remember thinking how cool it was that we had an industry resource that was glossy, beautifully photographed, and looked in so many ways like a consumer magazine. Over the years, as JCK published more content online, it has become a more important part of my life as a daily—often multiple times daily—resource. I can type jckonline.com so fast!”
—ANDREA HILL, president and CEO, Hill Management Group
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••• “My first impression of the magazine was the people— the editors in particular. Back in my show days as the director of marketing for JCK Las Vegas and JCK Orlando, I organized the press room where the editors—Hedda Schupak, Bill Shuster, Peggy Jo Donahue at that time—would use the provided computers (this was far before we were carrying personal laptops!) to cover what was being debuted and uncovered at the show. I remember their incredible passion and dedication. Fast-forward 20 years: Some things have changed—including the people and technology—but that same energy and passion continues.” —FRAN PENNELLA, founder and owner, Benali Consulting
••• “Like any industry, you have to adapt to the times, or you will be left behind. Through the years, I’ve seen JCK adapt to the challenges that have faced magazine publishers as a whole and persevere. Looking to the past while staying in the present is crucial to a brand’s survival.” —BENNY HEMATIAN, president, Effy Jewelry
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SAME PRESTIGE NEW OPPORTUNITIES TO WIN
NOW FE “EDITOR ATURING S’ “INFLUE CHOICE” AND NCERS’ CH AWARD OICE” S
More chances to win • Marketing support for entrants • High visibility for winners and finalists at JCK Las Vegas and across social platforms • Winner featured on cover of JCK magazine DAT E S Aug 1 – 15, 2019 Early bird entry at a reduced rate
Aug 1 – Oct 10, 2019 Entry period
Nov 15, 2019 – Jan 15, 2020 Voting
January 2020 Winner/finalist notification
March 2020 Winners and finalists announced
ENTER AUGUST 1ST – OCTOBER 10TH AT JCKJEWELRYAWARDS.COM All entries must be received by October 10, 2019.
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MASTER
WE’VE GOT ALL THE TOOLS, TIPS, AND TRICKS YOU NEED FOR SELLING ONLINE, ON THE GO, OR ON THE I N T E R N E T ’ S L A RG E S T E - C O M M E RC E P L AT F O R M
Illustrations by Nathan Hackett
HOW TO CONQUER AMAZON
HOW TO PRESENT PRODUCTS ON YOUR WEBSITE
HOW TO USE APPS TO LIGHTEN YOUR RETAIL LOAD
Our experts tell you everything you need to know about selling your products via the e-tail giant.
If you think photographing that amazing ring from a single angle will suffice, think again.
Check out these five essential mobile downloads. Plus: Is it worth developing your own app?
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If you sell jewelry, you know that retail gets more complicated with each passing day. Every time you turn around, there’s a new platform for selling your products. What’s a store owner to do? Turn to Amazon? Design your own app? And you can’t neglect your own website. Don’t get overwhelmed; get educated.
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CONQUER
AMAZON W H AT Y O U N E E D TO K N OW A B O U T S E L L I N G Y O U R P RO D U C T S V I A T H E E - TA I L G I A N T
by Martha C. White Illustrations by Nathan Hackett
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AMAZON IS A destination for millions of shoppers s earching for everything from books to batteries to bottled water. The loyalty of subscribers to the e-commerce seller’s Amazon Prime, which offers free two-day delivery and other benefits, is the envy of retailers the world over. For jewelry retailers, Amazon can be a terrific way to augment sales—but selling on Amazon also takes a lot of effort. On the following pages, sellers, consultants, and other experts offer insights on how to break into this booming marketplace.
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MAKE YOUR LISTINGS SHINE Whether you’re selling on Amazon, eBay, Overstock, or another online platform, a clear, c ompelling listing that will make your jewelry stand out in a sea of competitors is critical TITLE: Your listing title needs to be clear and concise in order for search algorithms as well as users typing into a search bar to find it. Stick to the facts (e.g., “18k white gold”) and avoid subjective descriptors like sparkling or gorgeous. PHOTOS AND VIDEOS: “Imagery is probably the number one thing that will get a customer to click on your item,” says Kristin Cherry Jackson of 21C Jewelry Solutions.
She recommends “beautiful, crisp, white-background photos.” Video is another way to stand out, says Zontee Hou of branding firm Media Volery. “It’s very valuable to have video content, and I’d encourage people to create content that they can add into their listings.” PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: A picture might be powerful, but you also need words; individuals with visual disabilities shop online too.
GETTING IN THE DOOR: A HIGH BAR There are two types of sellers on Amazon: those whose wares are sold directly by Amazon, such as New York City designer Alex Woo, and third-party sellers, who make up the vast majority of sellers in the jewelry category as well as across the platform. In the last year or two, Woo says, Amazon began relying more on data, replacing category merchandise buyers with algorithm-based purchasing. “Now everything is automated and it’s a very different transaction working with them,” she says. “It’s very data driven.” The competition is fierce. “A jeweler has to be ready with the…understanding of the effort it takes to get on Amazon,” says Emmanuel Raheb, founder and CEO of New York City–based Smart Age Solutions. Amazon’s growing dependence on technology means jewelers just getting started have fewer points of contact whom they can ask for assistance. As a result, consulting firms that shepherd companies through the application process and guide their sales approach have become increasingly important. Amazon has several categories, including fine jewelry, that require an application before you can become a seller. And tackling the process by yourself is a considerable investment, experts warn. “You can apply, but the likelihood of getting accepted is very low,” Raheb says. “It’s a black box.” Kristin Cherry Jackson, a partner at 21C Jewelry Solutions (with locations in Boston, Chicago, New York City, and Seattle), says her clients’ success is proof that the goal is an achievable one. “It’s a pretty clear path, and if you check all the boxes, you can absolutely be accepted as a seller,” she says. However, clear doesn’t mean easy—or cheap. The first step is a 10-question quiz that covers Federal Trade Commission guidelines for jewelers and the Amazon Jewelry Quality Assurance Standards, Jackson says. Pass that and you can officially apply, which means submitting spec sheets and physical
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“Keep in mind that a lot of people might need help understanding what the product looks like,” Jackson says. Include the vital stats—the karat/color of the gold, stone weight, and so on—along with descriptors such as princess-cut or bezel-set that can help both visually impaired shoppers and people viewing the listing on a mobile device.
that are both written out in editorial format as well as presented in a table of technical specs,” says Sapphire Collaborative’s Matthew Perosi. “Amazon customers expect this detail and are less inclined to purchase without it.”
SPECS: “Selling on Amazon requires longer product descriptions
REVIEWS: Not all e-tailers host user reviews, but many do, and
samples of six products for independent laboratory testing, and paying a $5,000 application fee. Jackson, a former senior category merchant manager for Amazon’s U.S. jewelry business, says some of her clients have received affirmative responses within weeks. But the process can be protracted if jewelers fail the guidelines test—Amazon is mum about what exactly constitutes a “passing grade”—or if, say, the weight of metal or gemstones doesn’t exactly match the documentation in laboratory testing. “It took us two years to get accepted,” says Vipul Lakhi, CEO of New York City–based My Trio Rings, adding that he was an Amazon seller for two years before being accepted as a fine jewelry seller.
EXACTING STANDARDS The introduction of Amazon Prime made fast, free shipping the norm, and e-commerce experts say you have to be willing to provide that service if you want to be a successful Amazon seller. “It’s actually one of the biggest factors to drive sales,” Lakhi says. When it comes to getting goods to customers, third-party sellers have two options: let Amazon do the shipping or handle shipping themselves. With the first option, Fulfillment by Amazon, Amazon keeps inventory in its nationwide network of warehouses and charges sellers to fulfill their orders. For lower-priced items, Lakhi says using Amazon as a middleman is efficient: “If you’re doing $20 earrings, it definitely makes sense.” If you handle shipping yourself, you’ll need to conform with Amazon’s strict requirements regarding turnaround time for Prime orders. “Amazon tracks absolutely everything you do, and they’re extremely tough on vendors,” Raheb says. Lakhi adds that Amazon has its own version of mystery shopping to conduct spot checks on product and service quality. “Amazon’s main concern is that you not over promise and underdeliver,” Jackson says. “It’s all about
they can enhance your appeal to would-be buyers. “We have really good reviews. A lot of our products have four- and five-star reviews,” designer Alex Woo says. In a commoditized online marketplace, happy customers distinguish your brand. “If someone’s sorting by four- and five-star reviews, hopefully we’ll pop up.”
c onsumer protection and maintaining Amazon’s reputation as a retailer people can trust to buy fine jewelry.”
THE AMAZON IDENTITY CRISIS Another challenge when selling on Amazon: making sure your brand stands out. “People shopping on Amazon—even if they’re purchasing through you and even if it’s drop-shipped by you—[think] it’s an Amazon purchase,” says Zontee Hou, president and chief strategist at New York City–based marketing and branding firm Media Volery. Some third-party sellers do “follow up right after the sale with an email. They’re trying to add a little bit of that post-purchase service.” In addition to reaching out to customers (to say thanks or encourage feedback), you can also engage with potential customers when they ask questions about your listings, Hou suggests. As proprietor of your Amazon e-commerce “store,” you should consistently monitor those questions and ideally answer them within 24 hours. The sooner you respond, the more likely it is you’ll make the sale.
THE BIGGEST MALL IN THE WORLD Since many fine jewelry buyers are already Amazon shoppers, the convenience factor is high. “I think it’s a great service to be there for your customers,” Woo says. Amazon also has cutting-edge logistics that might otherwise be out of reach for a small retailer. “Amazon takes care of the website security and payment gateway issues that most jewelers don’t have the technical expertise to deal with,” says Matthew Perosi, chief thinker at Sapphire Collaborative, a digital marketing consultancy for the jewelry industry. Even though the site won’t let sellers direct customers off its platform to make sales, it remains an unparalleled platform for brand exposure. “Once you’ve been approved,” Lakhi says, “it’s definitely a status you’d like to keep because Amazon is the biggest market out there.”
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PRESENT PRODUCTS ON YOUR WEBSITE I F Y O U T H I N K P H OTO G R A P H I N G T H AT AMAZING RING FROM A SINGLE ANGLE WILL SUFFICE, THINK AGAIN
b y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d Illustrations by Nathan Hackett
A PICTURE MAY be worth a thousand words, but it can’t show you every sparkling detail of a faceted diamond ring— not by a long shot. And in online fine jewelry retailing, visual ambiguity is a conversion killer. Essentially, if consumers can’t view and comprehend the details of a product you’re offering—and visualize themselves wearing that product—you’re less likely to convert those browsers into buyers. With just a few clicks on Google, the digital retail environment allows consumers to find multiple retailers selling the same item—letting them instantly compare prices, speed of shipping, return policies, and other factors that feed into purchase decisions. In this retail thunderdome, how a business showcases its products really matters. The importance of displaying clear, high-quality imagery is a given. But photos can’t simply be pretty; they need to be informational and, ideally, plentiful, revealing all there is to know about an item: how it looks in real life (floating in space and worn on a person), what it feels like, how heavy it is, and its true colors. Lastly, written product descriptions—the more concise and detailed, the better—fill in the information gaps photos leave behind. Clear and engaging copy is essential to selling your fine jewelry online. Make sure your product pages are up to par by heeding these five online merchandising musts.
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COVER THE ANGLES
Fine jewelry and luxury watches are high-price products, not Amazon add-ons shoppers toss into the digital shopping cart at the last minute. It’s true that ultra-affluent clients can be impulse jewelry buyers, but the bulk of fine jewelry consumers do lots of research and pre-shop before clicking “buy.” A recent study from Pymnts.com, which tracks innovations in payments and commerce, found that 88% of consumers research purchases online before reaching for their wallets. A brand’s product presentation plays a huge role in the decision process. What closes the sale for one retailer over another? The amount of information a consumer sees is a factor: When presented with the
option to buy from a seller showcasing an item with multiple detailed photos and a video over a seller displaying a single product photo, chances are the consumer will buy from the former. That’s because the more information you provide, the more confident consumers are bound to be in their purchase. This boils down to adding more photos, from close-ups to overall product shots and every perspective in between. A 2017 study from user-experience (UX) research firm Nielsen Norman Group found that “leaving shoppers’ questions unanswered can derail a sale or, even worse, make shoppers abandon not just the purchase, but the site as well.” Don’t let a lack of illustrative photos be the reason you lose sales.
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SHOW IT IN MOTION
Not every visitor on your site will click on video clips; some will outright ignore them. Yet the research on the potency of video as a marketing tool is undeniable: Marketers who used video grew revenue 49% faster than non–video users in 2018, according to digital advertising research firm WordStream. That’s why prolific jewelry sellers including Tiffany & Co. and AUrate make liberal use of the medium on their product pages, usually in the form of a 360-degree product video—a clickable snippet that presents a quickie once-around video of a product.
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BUILD A STORY AROUND IT
Once upon a time, advertising icon David Ogilvy made a list of the most powerful selling words, such as suddenly, now, amazing, and sensational. But writing engaging product copy in 2019 is less about cherry-picking splashy vocabulary and more about crafting messages that connect with consumers on a personal level. There’s a science to creating product copy that converts. However, you don’t have to be a professional copywriter to effectively describe the jewelry on your website: The key is to aim for clarity and engaging storytelling. “The best product descriptions address your target audience directly and personally,” marketing copy consultant Henneke Duistermaat wrote in a Shopify story this year. “You ask and answer questions as if you’re having a conversation with them. You choose the words your ideal buyer uses.… They want to know what’s in it for them. You use the word you.”
HUMANIZE THE PHOTO
Conversion rate optimization (CRO) experts found that 22% of returns from online purchases occur because the product looks different in reality than it does on screen. That’s why photos depicting a person wearing or using the item are essential on every product page—especially in jewelry, where the size of a piece can be difficult to gauge without something adjacent (a hand, a neck) to show its scale. Photos of jewelry and watches being worn also invite consumers to contemplate what an item might look like on them; it’s you as the retailer leading the horse to water. Those human photos may actually increase conversion rates. Although there’s no hard evidence to support this theory, plenty of bigtime marketers have vouched for its validity. In 2017, Instagram reported that photos with human faces in them had a 38% greater chance of receiving “likes” than those without faces. Of course, websites aren’t social networks—nonetheless, the stat speaks to our human desire (a part of our DNA) to observe and find commonalities with other people. Many online retailers are taking that idea of reflection further by integrating augmented reality (AR) into online consumer toolkits. AR tools—which have been used by Kay Jewelers and Dabakarov, among others—allow shoppers to virtually try on jewels via a website or an app. In a 2019 Shopify article, 40% of consumers said they would pay more for a product online if they could experience it through AR. That’s a stat worthy of attention by any measure.
SHOW IT IN THE WILD
Several jewelry and watch brands that do brisk business online, including Lizzie Fortunato and Mejuri, deftly integrate user-generated content into their websites—often in the form of Instagram posts. These posts are both shoppable (a click on a photo sends consumers to a product page) and instructive (showing consumers how others are wearing an item they’re considering). The payoff for showcasing user-created content is similar to that of brand-commissioned photos showing people wearing products. But user-generated content, which is less polished-looking than studio-shot photography, lets consumers see your products in an authentic setting and therefore evokes a more visceral response. In other words, user-generated content harnesses the power of influencer marketing to romance potential consumers.
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USE APPS TO LIGHTEN YOUR RETAIL LOAD CHECK OUT THESE FIVE ESSENTIAL M O B I L E D OW N LOA D S. P LU S: I S I T WO RT H D EV E LO PI N G YO U R OW N A P P? WE WEIGH THE PROS AND CONS.
b y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d Illustrations by Nathan Hackett
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MOBILE APPS GET us places, and fast. They’re the front doors to some of the world’s most useful digital tools—and most are accessed with a single tap. Apps also have the ability to aid jewelry retailers and manufacturers in countless ways, from providing the ability to safely ship a $40,000 diamond ring to rehabilitating a lackluster photo for an Instagram feed. Of course, not all apps are created equal—the growing glut of downloadable “tools” for phones includes winners and losers. Too many apps aren’t properly manned on the back end or malfunction during use (usually due to neglect—there are a lot of amateur app developers out there). But apps that deliver on pragmatic promises can offer indispensable shortcuts for small-business owners. Here are five JCK-vetted mobile apps designed to ease your daily to-do lists. And should your jewelry business, in this golden age of apps, have its own? Maybe, maybe not. Read on to find out why!
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2 STARWALLET
1 PARCEL PRO
Insured shipping service and app Parcel Pro was created by tech entrepreneur Joseph Lam specifically for the jewelry and watch industries more than 20 years ago as a way to quickly and securely ship high-value products, including gemstones, jewelry, and timepieces. In 2015, Parcel Pro was acquired by UPS Capital, a subsidiary of UPS. And the service, which is accessible via the Parcel Pro app, has since become the go-to shipping company for jewelry insurance provider Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group, among others. (Free; parcelpro.com)
Created specifically for jewelry and watch business-to-business transactions, StarWallet is a digital wallet—much like PayPal and Venmo—but without a transfer limit. This makes it possible for jewelers, manufacturers, consumers, and auction houses to instantly transfer large sums of money; we’re talking millions as opposed to most major digital wallets, which allow you to transfer only up to $10,000 per day. Transactions are insured by the Federal Deposit Insurance Corp. up to $250,000, and the fee to transmit a payment starts at a low 1.7%. The app’s development team (which includes Parcel Pro founder Lam) hopes to make StarWallet the payment system of choice “for major auction houses and trade shows in the near future,” says Flavio Amaral, the company’s vice president of sales. (Free to download, transaction fees vary; star8financial.com)
DOES YOUR RETAIL BUSINESS NEED ITS OWN APP? It’s an important question. After all, the most precious retail real estate in the United States right now isn’t on Madison Avenue or Melrose Place. It’s on the palm-size screens of the millions of mobile phones owned by American consumers. In 2018, more than 77 percent of Americans owned mobile phones, on which they spent an average of more than four hours a day, according to a Pew Research Center study. And our small-screen fixation is only intensifying: This year, mobile phones will surpass TV as the medium we watch the most. And yes, we talk and text on our phones. But we also shop. A lot. The study revealed that 67 percent of consumers go “digital window shopping” on their smartphones, with 77 percent of those making impulse purchases when they do.
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3 SHIPRACK
Shiprack is a free app and service that helps you track the status of online purchases through your smartphone in a single, easy-toaccess place. You simply forward every ship-confirmation email to packages@ship-rack.com, and Shiprack’s servers pluck important data from it, including the tracking number, a description of what’s being shipped, and a picture (if it’s provided). The servers routinely connect to the shipping carriers’ systems—and as soon as they see movement on your package, you get an alert on your smartphone. Tracking numbers are stored and synchronized across all your devices, so pulling up info when you need it is a snap. (Free; ship-rack.com)
5 CLIENTBOOK
4 SNAPSEED
Some of jewelry’s top Instagram influencers, including Becky Stone (@diamondsinthelibrary) and Hannah Becker (@diamondoodles), rely on Google’s advance photo editing app, Snapseed, to jazz up photos for their well-read Instagram feeds. Yes, phone cameras and social networks, including Instagram, offer blanket filters to edit and improve images. But Snapseed provides an astoundingly high degree of control over its effects and filters. Many of the app’s 29 tools and filters require a bit of tech savvy, but it’s nothing you can’t pick up from 20 minutes on a YouTube tutorial. (Free; App Store and Google Play)
Modern e-commerce websites are mobile- responsive—meaning they shape-shift from their desktop format to function seamlessly on a variety of mobile devices. But nearly every major retailer—from Target to Tiffany & Co.—has a proprietary mobile app. Why? A branded app that sits on a phone screen offers one-tap access to a retailer’s inventory, whereas entering a website requires a few more steps (typically starting with a Google search). But is there room on the rectangle for apps from small brands and retailers? “Assuming you already have a mobile- responsive website from a platform, you have to ask yourself the question—is there some intrinsic value in h aving an app for your brand?” posits Rick Dunetz, a digital product expert based in Annandale, Va. “Ask yourself what value you’re
Effective automated clienteling— the act of establishing long-term relationships with customers based on past behaviors and purchases— is the goal of Clientbook, which was designed specifically for sales teams retailing high-value products. The app automates work flows, notes, and reminders—alerting sales associates when customer follow-ups are needed or when a client has a big life event (birthday, anniversary) coming up. The tool also reminds users to reach out when a customer is most likely to buy, based on accrued data, and stores client history in one place. Best of all: When an employee leaves a company, that valuable client data can be easily transferred to a new or existing associate. (Prices vary depending on service; clientbookretail.com)
giving the consumer with an app, and what value you are getting from an app.” It’s true that apps can offer key advantages to businesses, including the ability to develop consumer loyalty programs, capture consumer data, and deliver alerts and notifications directly to phone screens. But unlike e-commerce websites—which can be built quickly and on the cheap these days on platforms such as Squarespace, Shopify—and Square, creating a well-functioning app requires the expertise of an app developer, along with capital. Dunetz puts the price of development of a very basic proprietary app at $5,000–$10,000. Then again, those costs may be negligible if your company has a solid strategy for leveraging an app that can turn online browsers into in-app buyers. The landscape could hardly be more competitive, but it’s also rife with potential.
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save the datet Wednesday, February 5 – Saturday, February 8, 2020 J W M A R R I O T T T U C S O N S TA R R PA S S R E S O R T & S PA
jckonline.com/tucson
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THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE
the vault
OPAL-ICIOUS With the painted opal as her starting point, Corbelin and her artisans used some of her favorite gemstones “to set and mix materials, like a chef with his recipe,” she says. “I think style is built this way. I hope my design brings strangeness, amazement, and fun to people!”
BRANCH LESSON The designer’s inspiration for the ring came in the form of a small collection of rare opals, all decorated with Japanese Urushi lacquers, that she recently acquired. “One of them represented a Tree of Life drawn in the manner of Gustav Klimt,” she says. “And I have a real passion for the artistic movement he led, the Vienna Secession.”
THE NIGHT QUEEN “I MAKE JEWELRY with a spirit of resistance to fashion,” says Parisian designer Sylvie Corbelin, who created this Paris Nocturne Klimt ring as an ode to Austrian painter Gustav Klimt, another artist who intentionally wanted his work to please a few (as opposed to the many). The decorative design pays tribute to Klimt’s Art Nouveau masterpiece Tree of Life, while also celebrating night (nocturne). That’s when, Corbelin says, “everything is slower and takes on a soft and quiet character.” —EMILI VESILIND
IN LIKE KLIMT The rectangular ring was fabricated in 18k yellow gold with sterling silver and features 71.35 cts. t.w. lacquered opals, 0.93 ct. t.w. emeralds, 3.2 cts. t.w. turquoise, and 1.15 cts. t.w. diamonds. At press time, it was available at Corbelin’s atelier for $45,500.
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GOLD
18k yellow gold stud earrings with two 2 mm diamonds; $1,800
Single 18k yellow gold earring with 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds and a 3.03 ct. labradorite; $9,900
Single 18k yellow gold earring with a 0.26 ct. ruby, 0.58 ct. t.w. diamonds, and a 2.91 ct. labradorite; $9,900; Margery Hirschey; info@margeryhirschey.com; margeryhirschey.com
18k yellow gold earrings with 4.58 cts. t.w. rubies and 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds; $11,000
CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION
AWE & ORDER
MARGERY HIRSCHEY’S NEW Orpheus collection takes inspiration from the playful g eometries of the Bauhaus school—which viewed mythical poet Orpheus as the embodiment of the ability to create order from chaos. The handmade, recycled 18k yellow gold earrings have several movable sections, though longer drop styles (sold individually) feature a hidden mechanism that stabilizes the designs. Hirschey also cites the work of seminal abstract artist Wassily Kandinsky as an influence. As a little girl, the designer saw a Kandinsky retrospective at the Guggenheim, and she tells JCK, “I think those images were burned into my brain forever.” —EMILI VESILIND JA’S ANNUAL CASE AWARD WINNERS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE.
HOT STOCK TIP
NICE CUBES Yurga Juozapa, the Lithuanian-born founder of emerging Los Angeles–based jewelry brand June Nineteen, created her accessibly priced Kaleidoscope rings to celebrate color, multiculturalism (the line uses globally sourced gemstones), and the richness of yellow gold. She hopes the rings will evoke a nomadic feeling for wearers—so “they can sit in their office and travel to places.” —EV 6 Cubes 14k yellow gold ring, $595; 2 Cubes and 2 Stones 14k yellow gold ring with two 4 mm Tashmarines, $585; junenineteen.com
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COLORED STONES Antique Enamel and Bird 18k gold– plated silver earrings with enamel, turquoise, pink chrysoprase, an antique button, labradorite, and pearl; $1,125
Man in the Moon 18k gold–plated silver necklace with labradorite, mother-of-pearl, antique button, shell, abalone, and aventurine; $1,440 Nautical 18k gold– plated silver necklace with an antique button, lapis, garnet, vintage glass, enamel, pearl, and a glass eye; $1,840
HOT STOCK TIP
THE INCREDIBLES CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION
FINDERS KEEPERS JEWELRY DESIGNER GR AINNE Morton has mastered the art of mixing and matching seemingly disparate stones and objects in cohesive-feeling jewelry pieces that have earned her a robust following. But the Irish jeweler, who lives and works in Edinburgh, Scotland, and calls herself a “collager of materials,” does more than corral tiny elements; her designs pack real historical perspective. Morton says her latest mobilelike jewels were inspired by her love of 20th-century fashion—notably Droopy & Browns and AnnaBelinda. Her pieces may have the appearance of having been assembled spontaneously, but closer inspection reveals their thoughtful orderliness. It’s a trick Morton pulls off regularly, and with aplomb. —EMILI VESILIND JULY / AUGUST 2019
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Victorian 18k gold–plated silver drop earrings with an antique button, opal, moonstone, shell, turquoise, cameo, pearl, coral, and tourmaline; $1,335; Grainne Morton; info@ grainnemorton. co.uk; grainne morton.co.uk
Oscar Wilde’s advice “We should all be a little incredible” inspired Greek jewelry designer Lito Karakostanoglou to create her new Treasure Box series. Her one-off cocktail rings feature chunky, kaleidoscopic center stones of amethyst, ametrine, and tourmaline wrapped in settings peppered with teenytiny rose-cut diamonds. The overall effect? Dizzying, darling. —EV 18k pink gold ring with 5.91 ct. oval-cut aquamarine and white and pink diamonds, $9,900; 18k pink gold ring with 6.82 ct. pear-cut tourmaline with white and light brown diamonds, $7,120; litofinejewelry.com
SHADES OF MYKONOS BY HONOR OMANO! SEE jckonline.com/topics/ coloredstones FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM
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w e N
DELIVERY SAN DIEGO
NOVEMBER 2-4, 2019 SAN DIEGO CONVENTION CENTER
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SAN DIEGO, CA
JIS is expanding to the West Coast with its four decades of jewelry trade show expertise; providing buyers the chance to secure inventory right before the busy holiday season and direct from the show floor. The first ever JIS Delivery - San Diego provides the desired West Coast location with an array of vendors and buyers you won’t find at other events. Whether you’re an exhibitor and want to move inventory, or you’re a buyer ready to fill your showcases with the latest trends right before the holiday, this show is for you!
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Register to attend or apply to exhibit at JISShow.com/SanDiego
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OCTOBER 4 – 7, 2019 miami beach convention center
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miami beach, fl
“The Largest” JIS October is the 2nd largest Jewelry Trade Show in the Americas.
The 2019 Show will be one of the most expansive and diverse JIS O c t o b e r S h o w s i n h i s t o r y, w i t h n e w i n t e r n a t i o n a l a n d s p e c i a l t y
pavilions – like the New Exhibitor Zone and the Lab Grown Pavilion, exciting special events, helpful exhibitor recommendations, techsavvy SMART badges powered by Konduko, and much more. This year
marks the 40th anniversary of JIS, and you’re invited to celebrate with us and thousands of your closest jewelry friends. Register today and start planning your trip to beautiful Miami Beach, Florida.
JISSHOW.COM/OCTOBER 1 (800) 840-5612 jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com S TAY C O N N E C T E D A N D S O C I A L | # J I S S H O W
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THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS
Show biz 18k yellow gold Crownwork asymmetric ring with 6.2 ct. garnet and 0.85 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds; $6,875; Ray Griffiths Fine Jewelry; 212-6897209; raygriffiths.com
HOT IN THE CITY In mid-August, a slew of jewelry trade shows take Manhattan
J
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
EWELERS HAVE BEEN flocking to New York City in late July and August for decades, for summer market week, when they stock up on styles destined to strike a chord with consumers over the coming holiday season. The summer of 2019 brims with more events than ever. Consider the shows welcoming retailers to the city in mid- August, including: Melee the Show, coming to the High Line Hotel Aug. 10–12; Metal & Smith, which runs Aug. 11–12 in midtown; and NY Now, a lifestyle and home goods fair that counts fashion jewelry labels such as Anzie and Bounkit as exhibitors and is co-locating with the JA New York Summer show at the Jacob Javits Convention Center Aug. 11–14. For retailers seeking high design in a relaxed yet u pscale environment, Melee the Show is the ticket. When California-based jewelers Lauren Wolf and Rebecca Overmann founded the event in August 2017, they were looking to create a business-to-business platform for the kind of handmade fine jewelry they and their contemporaries were creating.
The timing was strategic. “Our buyers want to see us in summer so they can get their orders in October and November,” Wolf says. Adds Overmann: “It made sense to have one spot where fine jewelry was really concentrated in a fantastic environment.” While they chose the High Line for its stylish ambience and convenient West Side location, they initially feared the grandeur of the space—the show takes place partly in the hotel’s 3,300-square-foot Refectory, known for its high ceilings and stained glass windows—would overshadow the jewelry. But instead, exhibitors and attendees feel the space complements the pieces on sale. “It’s a beautiful setting,” says Melee exhibitor Ray Griffiths, who will be showing a range of garnet, opal, and multicolored sapphire styles at this summer’s event. “When people turn up, they have good food, nice coffee, nice salads at lunchtime—it’s not full of rules and regulations. And it’s a nice, friendly environment that doesn’t feel overly commercialized.”
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PROTECT YOUR STORE FROM CRIME JOIN THE JEWELERS SECURITY ALLIANCE
BENEFITS OF JOINING THE JSA:
Weekly Email Crime Alerts on criminals and scams
A free copy of the JSA’s Manual of Jewelry Security
Unlimited expert telephone advice on security issues
Rewards offered if your firm suffers a criminal loss
Support of JSA’s work with the FBI and local police
Visit JSA at www.jewelerssecurity.org or contact JSA via jsa2@jewelerssecurity.org or 212-687-0328. For the latest news follow us on Twitter @jsajohnkennedy.
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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY
TOOL TIME Gem-laden artwork from the About page on diamondoodles.com
sourcing, creative direction, and digital strategy.’ The first might be true and cute, but it doesn’t help you know my business or how we can work together.”
BE BRIEF
ALL ABOUT YOU
T
One of the most important things you can do for your online presence is craft a snappy and straightforward bio
M-IMAGEPHOTOGRAPHY/ISTOCK/GETTY; COURTESY DIAMONDOODLES (2)
BY EMILI VESILIND
HE MOST IMPORTANT story any brand can tell is its own. Origin stories provide great fodder for ongoing marketing initiatives. By leveraging elements of where your brand came from, you can help nurture a distinctive corporate identity that distinguishes your company in the marketplace. Baseline to that endeavor is crafting and publishing compelling biographical content on your online platforms— chiefly your company’s website and social media feeds. The “About Us” page and social media profile section (aka bios) are where many consumers go to learn about a company and decide whether to patronize it. This
is especially true with millennials and Gen Zers, who actively seek out companies that prioritize transparency. Instagram influencer, social media consultant, and gemologist Hannah Becker is one of the best storytellers in the biz. The founder of D iamondoodles is known for her clever, stylish “doodles” (custom illustrations adorned with gemstones) that have been commissioned by major brands for marketing campaigns. We asked Becker to share her tips for creating compelling internet intros.
BE CRYSTAL CLEAR When writing bios for social feeds and websites, be clear—and err on the side of textbook-boring over ultraclever. “As quickly as a client can stumble upon your profile on Instagram, they can leave for another page if they don’t understand what you make or the services you provide,” Becker says. “Imagine I introduced myself with a handshake and ‘Hannah Becker: travel, sparkly things, dog mom’ versus ‘Hannah Becker: gemstone doodles, stone
“Two things that make for a boring About Us page: too much text and no images,” Becker says. “Unless you’ve been around for 100-plus years, it shouldn’t take you more than three concise paragraphs to tell your story.” If you don’t have a strong writer in-house, hire a copywriter for your About Us page, which won’t require much updating. And make sure all text is edited for typos and/or grammatical errors—even your brief social media bios. “Put the most important information up top and stick to only the most engaging and pertinent details,” Becker says. And “compelling images will help do the work of telling your story.”
REVEAL YOURSELF Users “like to know the name of the person they’re addressing on social media,” Becker says. “If I can’t tell if you are a store, a designer, or just a jewelry lover, your social media is not going to help you grow your business.” If your store or brand has one person running the Instagram, consider putting that person’s name in your brand’s bio. “And if you’re a designer and your brand isn’t your name, put your name somewhere in your bio so we know who you are.” Above all, “be honest and true to yourself,” Becker says. “People want to see what’s real!”
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Tool Time
THE What it does: All Nowa watches tell time (analog movements are Swiss); track and record activities including steps, distance, calories burned, and sleep quality; automatically adjust to global time zones; remotely operate a phone’s camera; and alert users to incoming calls (only calls, not texts) with a subtle flashing light—no vibrating.
WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE
NoWA SUPeRBe
If the Apple Watch is the Swiss Army knife of smartwatches— stuffed to the gills with tools, both pragmatic and superfluous—the sleek new Nowa Superbe hybrid watch is a hand-carved vintage switchblade: Its applications are few, but it’s swimming in style. And really, how many jobs do we need to assign our smartwatches? Eric Gizard, the respected French artist and designer who cofounded Nowa and designed its first collection of hybrid watches, is a devotee of simplicity in all areas, especially technology: “Smartwatches are too complicated,” he asserts. “I just need a slim watch that makes a fashion statement and automatically sets time when I’m traveling—and nothing else.” —EV
What we liked: Its killer looks. The sublimely squared-off dial marries minimalism with vintage watch aesthetics. It wears like an upscale analog timepiece—it’s slim but on the heavy side, with a fine-gauge stainless steel 20 mm rose gold mesh strap that boasts an easy quick-spring release. Best features: The Superbe’s noiseless, motionless alerts make it easy to forget that you’re wearing a connected watch altogether—a plus for those averse to the category’s penchant for buzziness. And the hybrid runs up to eight months on a standard CR2025 watch battery, so there’s no fiddling around with USB cords or proprietary device chargers destined to disappear within the first year. ($189; nowa.watch)
SUPPLY IN DEMAND
CleAN + CARe PRoFeSSioNAl UlTRASoNiC CleANeR Savvy jewelry retailers don’t just sell jewels, they also sell products that keep them sparkling. The Kingswood Co.’s Clean + Care Professional Ultrasonic Cleaner has “professional” in its title, but it’s priced and engineered for at-home use. The countertop gadget uses a 45kHz wave frequency calibrated specifically to clean delicate and intricate jewelry. The machine can be customized with a retailer’s logo and features a stainless steel 420 ml tank, a jewelry basket, and an optional jewelry touch-up brush and/or watch holder. Best of all, its complete cleaning cycle is a mere three minutes long—making it an attractive option for jewelers who are interested in offering gratis in-store jewelry cleanings but often feel strapped for time. ($49.99–$59.99; thekingswoodcompany.com) —EV
NEW DIAMOND LAB OPENS IN NYC! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.
The at-home Clean + Care Ultrasonic Cleaner can be used with water or a jewelry cleaning fluid. JCKONLINE.COM
PRODUCT
SHOWCASE Gabriel & Co 545 W. 45th St., Third Floor New York, NY 10036 Phone: 212-519-1400 Fax: 646-273-1611 Email: lverona@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com A delicate arc of gold balls, radiant mini-clusters of diamonds, chains of perfect gold circles: This is how Gabriel & Co. interprets Bujukan, the Balinese act of persuasion achieved by a subtle wink, a gentle touch, that one perfect word spoken in a whisper. MSRP: $505–$2,600
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Arch Crown Inc. 460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Promote Your Brand Name on Custom Tags & Labels! As a merchandising aid or advertising vehicle, Arch Crown tags and labels communicate your store’s unique identity. Once out of the store, they act as your most cost-effective advertising medium.
Midas Chain 151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com
Shy Creation 631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com
Make this contemporary cuff your own with a custom engraving. Designed in 14k yellow gold by Midas, this open cuff has plenty of space for a one-of-a-kind personalization. MSRP: $571
Visit us in New York City at the JA New York/NY Now shows to see our latest styles from our newest collections. JA New York Booth 1D209
Cirari by Color Jewels
Artistry Ltd.
36 W. 44th St., Suite 900 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488 Email: info@cirari.com Website: cirari.com
8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: orders@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com
Cirari by Color Jewels is a leading designer and manufacturer of gemstone and diamond jewelry. Our collection is finely crafted with exquisite style and competitive prices to meet every woman’s demand at every stage of her life. We are committed to providing superior quality and craftsmanship in each item.
This Dolce collection pendant and ring are crafted in 14k rose gold with emerald-cut pink amethyst and diamonds. Matching bangles and earrings available. The collection is offered in a variety of gemstones and metal colors. MSRP: $500–$790
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SHOWCASE
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Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. Effy Jewelry Website: effyjewelry.com
631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com
Ablaze with white and espress espresso diamonds, Effy’s daring Drago Dragon ring is a majestic tribute to the mythical creature.
Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.
RDI Diamonds Inc.
Royal Chain Group
2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com
2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com
Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again. You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100 percent Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.
Commemorating the resurgence in gold, Royal Chain has released a fabulous, special edition gold collection of new designs. See our new brochure, “The Gold Book,” and try these adorable, layerable 0.1 ct. diamond Italian Silk bracelets. MSRP: $925
Herco
Stuller Inc.
833 Market St., 10th Floor San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-543-1580/800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Email: info@herco.com Website: herco.com
302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com
Herco offers a wide variety of 14k and 18k yellow, white, and pink gold jewelry. We also carry many items in 22k and 24k gold, platinum, silver, titanium, palladium, and stainless steel.
Lab-grown diamonds are increasingly popular, offering consumers highly attractive price and quality options. With the growing demand, Stuller has expanded its lab-grown diamond assortment to include pink and blue melee sizes. See more at stuller.com/labgrownmelee.
JULY/AUGUST 2019
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SHOWCASE
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Blue Ray Diamonds Costar Imports, Inc. Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com After customer demand, we have taken our most popular stackable wedding bands and introduced matching stackable bangle bracelets with our new locking mechanisms! These bracelets can be customized with diamonds and birthstones.
45440 Ford Road Canton, MI 48187 Tel: 734-459-8664 Fax: 734-459-8617 Email: takess@aol.com Website: blueraydiamonds.com Our invention is called the Super Halo. We have enhanced the halo and solitaire jewelry with diamonds. In this innovative design, the center diamond/stone sits in a shimmering pool of diamonds.
Jye’s International Inc. Jewelers Mutual Group 24 Jewelers Park Drive Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-336-5642, ext. 2118 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com/benefits jewelersmutual.com/ben Try our Program Benefits Calculator and learn how JM Care Plan™, JM Shipping Solution™, and Jeweler’s Cut® Link can help you grow revenue and cut costs.
1633 Bayshore Highway, Suite 136 Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com The beauty of a Jye piece is translated through its design, superior level of workmanship, and materials. Please see our color stone collection for examples.
Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere, all made in the USA. This beautiful 14k cross with 0.05pts diamonds is available in yellow, white, and rose gold. MSRP: $245
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Le Vian® Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Le Vian® introduces Bold Gold as the 2020 Trend of the Year featuring Glossy, Satin, and Brushed Strawberry Gold® or Honey Gold™ as an element of the design, accented and patterned with shimmering Nude Diamonds™.
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WATCHES & WATCH WORK
REPS WANTED
SERVICES TO TRADE
ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices. Star Findings PO Box 6167, West Orange, NJ 07052 212-941-7655 ernie@starfindings.com www.starfindings.com
Experienced Sales Representatives Wanted
INVISIBLE EXPERTS!
Elle Jewelry and Charles Garnier are seeking self-motivated, experienced independent sales representatives for select territories. Must have strong relationships with independent and regional retailers. Email resume to careers@paris1901.com
INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR • SIZING • REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES • LASER WELDING
We Have The Answer to Your Problems! www.invisibleexperts.com SIGNATURE JEWELRY INC.
1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026
617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014
CAREER OPPORTUNITIES WATCHMAKER WANTED! Min. 10 years of experience repairing Patek Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, perpetual calendar, chronograph, lathe work, etc. $82,000/year plus benefits. Please email or fax your resume to joshua@grayandsons.com or fax: 305-865-9666
SCHOOLS & EDUCATION JEWELRY CLASSES
• Wax Modeling • Casting Mold Making • Bead Pearl Stringing • Diamond Setting • Rendering/Design • Jewelry Repair Long and Short Term Courses EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. 32 East 31 Street (Park & Madison) New York, NY 10016 Call (212) 686-1944 www.studiojewelersltd.com
STUDIO JEWELERS, LTD
JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.
Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com
CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING 3D computer design 3D wax printing ● Precious metal casting ●
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Stone setting and finishing Diamond supply ● Laser engraving & repair ●
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Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com
HERITAGE APPRAISERS, INC Heritage Appraisers has a solution for your appraisal business. We offer several solutions to help increase and manage your appraisal business. Allows you to spend more time on the sales floor and managing your business.
RUN A CLASSIFIED AD STARTING AT $220 Call your JCK Sales Representative or email JCKClassifieds@advance.net. For more information contact Stephen Lott Jr at 216 239-1549 or email slott@heritageappraisers.com
JULY/AUGUST 2019
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ADVERTISING
INDEX Alex Velvet pg. 35 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Artco Group pg. 28 Website: artcogroup.com Toll-Free: 877-222-7820 Artistry Ltd. pg. 24 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Color Jewels Inc. pg. 51 Website: cirari.com Email: tarek@colorjewels.net Phone: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488 Costar Imports pg. 29 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR Effy pg. 9 Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Facet Barcelona USA Inc. pg. 19 Website: facetbarcelona.com/usa Email: sales@facet.es Phone: 212-302-8200 Fax: 347-441-0908 Gabriel & Co. pg. 17 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 GIA pg. Inside back cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 Herco pg. 27 Website: herco.com Email: info@herco.com Toll-Free: 800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699
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Italgem Steel pg. 22 Website: Italgemsteel.com Email: sam@italgemsteel.com Phone: 514-388-5777 Toll-Free: 855-ITALGEM Fax: 514-384-5777
Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. pg. 23 Website: peterlam.com.hk Email: kenter@peterlam.com.hk Phone: +852 23555897 Fax: +852 27641328
JCK Events pg. 4-5, 6-7, 88 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626
Rand & Paseka pg. 45 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006
Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 2-3 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411
RDI Diamonds pg. 42 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768
JIS Show pg. 93, 94 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612
Rembrandt Charms pg. 39 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811
Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 34 Website: gemlogis.com Email: enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333
Royal Chain Group pg. 25 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960
Le Vian pg. Inside front cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Midas pg. 13 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 32 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Nicole Barr pg. 26 Website: nicolebarr.com Email: us-info@nicolebarr.com Phone: 919-846-3704 Toll-Free: 877-810-7312 Fax: 919-846-3705
Shy Creation Inc. pg. 21 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 Star Jewelry pg. 53 Website: blueraydiamonds.com Email: Takess@aol.com Phone: 734-459-8664 Fax: 734-459-8617 Sterling Reputation pg. 12 Website: sterlingreputation.com Email: info@sterlingreputation.com Phone: 954-578-1880 Stuller Inc. pg. Back cover Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Umicore pg. 98 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060
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Uneek Jewelry Inc. pg. 37 Website: uneekjewelry.com Email: info@uneekjewelry.com Phone: 213-622-5119 Toll-Free: 888-BE-UNEEK Fax: 213-622-5115 Wilkerson pg. 48 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333 Women’s Jewelry Association pg. 91 Website: womensjewelryassociation.com Email: info@womensjewelryassocation.com Phone: 212-687-2722
Copyright Š2019 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 150 No. 5 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/ February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.
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THE WAY WE WERE COVER STORIES FROM 150 YEARS OF JCK
VINTAGE REVIVAL
THE BEAUTY OF this 1951 black-and-white cover is that it screams 1950s, yet feels utterly contemporary. (Can’t you just see Billy Porter wearing that brooch?) The model is 22-year-old Ann Crowley, star of the 1951 Milton Berle–produced Broadway musical Seventeen. She was one of a dozen or so models, actresses, beauty queens, and socialites iced out and dressed to the nines at the fourth annual Diamonds U.S.A. show in New York City. Each woman wore jewelry from such leading brands as Cartier, Harry Winston, Shreve & Co., and Black, Starr & Gorham. (Crowley’s dazzlers were from Detroit’s Wright, Kay & Co.) The biggest diamond trend at that year’s Diamonds U.S.A., FYI, was “no bigger than a quarter-inch of matchstick”: the baguette. “The demand is so great that entire cutting shops in New York are producing this one shape.” One collet necklace at the show, in fact, contained more than 200 baguettes “set as smooth as light-rays.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO
PHOTOGRAPH BY NESTOR CERVANTES
This 1951 cover of Jewelers’ Circular-Keystone is giving us major modern bridal vibes
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©2018 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.
Not all gems come from under the ground. The Gemological Institute of America supports communities where gems are mined, working with the Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory to build libraries in Africa and helping artisanal miners understand the quality of their discoveries with our Gem Guide. These initiatives help make it possible for regional populations to take a more active role in the industry and ultimately help their community look forward to a brighter future. Our contributions are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls. The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology
Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu
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