JCK 2019 June Issue by JCK Magazine

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

150TH ANNIVERSARY JUNE 2019

JCKONLINE.COM

YOU S H O W, GIRL ! JCK LAS VEGAS ÂRETURNS TO A SPARKLING NEW SANDS

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F O R A P P O I N T M E N T S : 1 - 8 5 5 - A S K - E F F Y, E X T. 6 7 9

J C K L AS V EG AS - B O OT H 1 4 1 0 1 | S A L E S @ E F F Y G R O U P. C O M

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

150TH ANNIVERSARY JUNE 2019

JCKONLINE.COM

DIAMONDS FOR

DAYS ASSCHERS AND

OVALS AND

PEAR SHAPES OH MY! JCK060119_C1_Cover_gate_v3.indd 2

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N O O N E C O LO R S YO U R W O R LD LI K E LE V I A N ™

CBG

LE VIAN 20TH ANNIVERSARY RED CARPET REVUE

LUXURY & JCK

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GOT TO GOLD! Fashion is fickle, gold is forever.

Like fashion, your gold customer is changing. We get that. Only Royal Chain creates gold jewelry for every customer who walks through your door. Discover it on: ROYALCHAIN.COM 800 622 0960

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SWAROVSKI CREATED DIAMONDS

Swarovski Created Diamonds build on Swarovskiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s 120-year year heritage of creativity, craftsmanship and innovation, marking a new step forward in the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s brilliant history off iinnovative nnovatiive man-made materials. Swarovski Created Diamonds monds have a laser inscription, visible only under a microscope, croscope, clearly identifying them as man-made. n-made.

A SEAL OF QU QUALITY

JCK Las Vegas Booth 7110 phillipgavriel.com | 800.622.0960

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Colored Diamond Jewelry $10,000 & Under Mira Style Jewellery LUXP30045, HONG KONG 55097

Colored Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000 GRAND PRIZE WINNER Mizrahi of Beverly Hills

Lab-Grown Diamond and/or Gemstone Jewelry All Price Points

Gold Jewelry $2,500 & Under

Charles and Colvard

CURRENTS 7109

Royal Chain Group

CURRENTS 9109

Pearl Jewelry $2,500 & Under Alamea Hawaii LLC

Gold Jewelry Over $2,500 Jye’s International Inc. LUX303

THE BRIDGE 8131

Diamond Jewelry $2,500 & Under

Pearl Jewelry Over $2,500

Dinaro Creations

Yoko London

Silver Jewelry $500 & Under Gabriel & Co. CURRENTS 14109

FIRST LOOK 52011

Diamond Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Dinaro Creations

Tanzanite Jewelry $10,000 & Under Parlé Jewelry Designs LUX30087

Silver Jewelry $501–$1,000 Belle Étoile THE BRIDGE 14123

FIRST LOOK 52011

Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000

Tanzanite Jewelry Over $10,000

Silver Jewelry Over $1,000 Lika Behar

Ambience Inc.

LUXP30067

Platinum Jewelry $10,000 & Under Gabriel & Co.

Contemporary Metal Jewelry All Price Points

CURRENTS 14109

Stuller, Inc.

Siera Jewelry Inc. LUX223

Colored Stone Jewelry $2,500 & Under Anye Designs

CURRENTS 13089

CURRENTS 5127

Colored Stone Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Denny Wong Designs DESIGN CENTER 21147

Colored Stone Jewelry Over $10,000 Graziela Gems

Platinum Jewelry Over $10,000 Michael Schofield & Co.

Mixed Metal Jewelry $1,000 & Under Lika Behar LUXP30067

Mixed Metal Jewelry Over $1,000 Lika Behar LUXP30067

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2019 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS FIRST PLACE WINNERS! Be sure to visit all the winners at this year’s JCK Las Vegas show.

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry $500 & Under

Best Earring Design Over $10,000

Best Necklace Design $2,500 & Under

Belle Étoile

Rahaminov Diamonds

Parlé Jewelry Designs

THE BRIDGE 14123

LUX622

LUX30087

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry Over $500

Best Bracelet Design $2,500 & Under

Best Necklace Design $2,501–$10,000

Belle Étoile

Parlé Jewelry Designs

THE BRIDGE 14123

LUX30087

Personalized Jewelry All Price Points

Best Bracelet Design $2,501–$10,000

Best Necklace Design Over $10,000

Malo Creations

Kapsaskis Dim & SIA OE

Joden World Resources

BRIDAL 9077

LUX33083B

Men’s Jewelry $1,000 & Under

Best Bracelet Design Over $10,000

Royal Chain Group

Beverley K

Noam Carver for CrownRing Bridal House

CURRENTS 7109

LUXP30050

LUX1207

Men’s Jewelry Over $1,000

Best Ring Design $2,500 & Under

Best Bridal Design $2,501–$5,000

William Henry

Parlé Jewelry Designs

LUX31041

LUX30087

Best Price Point $1000 & Under Neon Gems, Inc. LUX344

Best Ring Design $2,501–$10,000

Best Bridal Design $2,500 & Under

CKC Sons

Best Bridal Design Over $5,000 Marisa Perry Atelier

FreyWille LUX32077

Best Statement Piece $10,000–$30,000 Best Earring Design $2,500 & Under Alamea Hawaii LLC

Best Ring Design Over $10,000

Grace Hays & Robert Russell

Joden World Resources

THE BRIDGE 8131

Best Statement Piece Over $30,000 Best Earring Design $2,501–$10,000 Shy Creation LUX1227

Norman Silverman LUX123

JCK EVENTS | Special Advertising Section

JCK Show & Tell

The Jewelry Industry Event of the Year T H E R E ’ S A L O T O F E X C I T I N G N E W S A H E A D O F J C K L A S V E G A S , F R O M C E L E B R AT I N G O U R M OV E B AC K TO T H E SA N D S E X P O & T H E V E N E T I A N TO N E W P R O D U C T L AU N C H E S A N D T R E N D S . T H E R E ’ S S O M U C H T O L O O K F O R W A R D T O AT T H E S H O W.

SPOTLIGHT ON: At JCK, you’ll have plenty of hours to devote to meeting new people,

Panel discussions include the JCK Next Board talking about the next

connecting with friends and colleagues, and delighting over the latest

generation in jewelry; JCK publisher Mark Smelzer will moderate

designs. JCK also offers ample opportunity for learning through its

a discussion about LGBTQ customers and proposals, along with

annual roster of JCK Talks. The series is designed to equip retailers

@thirdcoastgem’s Benjamin Guttery and Propose Too’s Severine Ferrari.

with everything they need to tackle the current retail climate—and it’s packed with compelling content.

This year’s retailer roundtable discussions focus on your customers’ misconceptions about jewelry; hiring, training and keeping great staff;

This year’s sessions cover a broad range of topics, with a series of

the evolving consumer; and custom designs.

speaker-and panel-led presentations, retailer roundtable discussions and hands-on demonstrations throughout the show. POWERED BY THE SMITHEE GROUP

Educational presentations focus on such topics as lab-grown diamonds; 2019’s biggest jewelry trends; digital payment solutions; unexpected ways to drive store traffic; responsible sourcing; multi-generational brands; the overall state of retail; sustainability and trends in jewelry crime and the technologies to prevent it.

New for 2019 is Social Media Bootcamp, a half-day, in-depth event that revolves around what your business needs to succeed in the digital age. In partnership with the Smithee Group, the Bootcamp will take place on June 2 from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. with limited seating available. Be sure to inquire at the show about registration for this event.

Richline’s CMO Mark Hanna will present on Blockchain, while Avi Kravitz, senior analyst and news editor for Rapaport, will discuss how to survive a turbulent diamond and jewelry market. Ran Ravitz, founder and CEO of Ecommerce Pathways, will explain how to successfully

Back for another year is the popular JCK Think Tank, where tech-savvy

navigate Amazon and more on the multi-channel online netscape; Elle

companies compete with their recent innovations to see who will be the

Hill, founder of Hill & Co. Fine Jewelry, will cover what you need to

2019 JCK Think Tank winner.

know about the online shopper. Well-known gemstone dealer Roger Dery will offer a look at changing lives in gemstone communities, while Tiffany Stevens, president of Jewelers Vigilance Committee, will give a

There’s more in store at JCK Las Vegas! Stay tuned to jcklasvegas2019.com, and use your JCK Mobile app for updates and current show schedules.

2019 legal update for the industry. Other presentations include Millennials and Gen Z; how to attract selfpurchasers; data-driven marketing and the impact of art on jewelry.

For more information and to plan your show, visit jcklasvegas2019.com

TAO Las Vegas & Beach Club S U N D AY, J U N E 2 | 8 : 0 0 P M TITLE SPONSOR *MUST HAVE A SHOW BADGE AND BE 21 YEARS OR OVER TO ATTEND

JCK Mobile App Sponsored by: F o r 2 0 1 9, e n h a n c e d b o o t h - t o - b o o t h G P S n a v i g a t i o n i s a v a i l a b l e i n t h e J C K M o b i l e A p p, m a k i n g it easier for you to find your way to specific booths. With exhibitor QR codes on the show f l o o r, y o u c a n s c a n u s i n g y o u r p h o n e t o q u i c k l y g e t m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n . S a v e c o m p a n i e s y o u are interested in to easily refer back to later on! The JCK Mobile App also offers Ask Bling for on-demand digital support for any questions you may have. Advertisement

ICA Pavilion at JCK Las Vegas New global gemstone exhibition will showcase ICA members introducing to the US market some of the most respected colored gemstone suppliers from around the world.

JCKINSIDER.COM

JCK Las Vegas Sands Expo & Convention Center The International Non-ProďŹ t Organization Serving the Colored Gemstone Industry

www.gemstone.org

@ j c k e v e n t s # J C K L a s Ve g a s

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BE A P THE T ART OF RADIT Conta ct you ION. r sales jckon re

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PROTECT YOUR STORE FROM CRIME JOIN THE JEWELERS SECURITY ALLIANCE

“Smash and grab robberies…A troubling trend that began in the Midwest has now spread to other areas of the country.” Rob Bates, “Smash-and-Grab Robberies Erupt in the Industry”, JCKonline.com, February 26, 2018

Visit JSA at www.jewelerssecurity.org or contact JSA via jsa2@jewelerssecurity.org or 212-687-0328.

BENEFITS OF JOINING THE JSA:

Weekly Email Crime Alerts on criminals and scams

A free copy of the JSA’s Manual of Jewelry Security

Unlimited expert telephone advice on security issues

To learn more about how to protect your store and the Jewelers Security Alliance, visit the JSA Security Pavilion at JCK Las Vegas and Booth 59119. Talk to security exhibitors who can provide the latest solutions to protect your jewelry business from burglary, robbery and theft. JCK LAS VEGAS 2019 The Sands Expo & The Venetian, Las Vegas, NV May 31–June 3, 2019 jckonline.com/lasvegas

Rewards offered if your firm suffers a criminal loss

Support of JSA’s work with the FBI and local police

CONTENTS

98 106

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

FLIGHTS OF FANCY

Stacks of showstopping rings, piles of tennis bracelets, 100-carat-plus ensembles: The sky’s the limit with these diamonds. PHOTOGRAPHY BY DIEGO UCHITEL

FEATURES 106

HOW GREEN IS YOUR DIAMOND? Are lab-grown diamonds truly more environmentally friendly than their mined counterparts? BY ROB BATES

108

THE COLOR REPORT Bold, strong, and visceral are the ways Pantone describes its autumn-winter 2019–2020 palette. We picked 12 jewels to match the powerful hues. BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

116

UNEASY MONEY

130

118

To maximize profit, minimize debt, and avoid financing woes, jewelers must adapt to rising interest rates. BY WHITNEY SIELAFF

118

MOVIN’ ON UP Five jewelry retailers on their best tips for changing locations. BY DANIEL P. SMITH

120

SALESPERSON FOR A DAY Our reporter spent a Saturday in April shadowing the pros at I. Gorman Jewelers in Washington, D.C. Here’s what she learned about luxury retailing in the age of smartphones and social media. BY EMILI VESILIND

PHOTOGRAPH BY DIEGO UCHITEL. LOVE EARRINGS WITH 11.86 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS IN 18K WHITE GOLD, $46,000, ANDREOLI, 212-582-2050, ANDREOLIUSA.COM; YAELITA 18K WHITE GOLD NECKLACE WITH 0.63 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $3,780, YAEL DESIGNS, 415-989-9235, YAELDESIGNS.COM; 5-PETAL PENDANT IN 14K WHITE GOLD WITH 0.6 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $1,995, BENY SOFER, 212-575-0213, BENYSOFER.COM; ASYMMETRICAL BAR PENDANT IN 14K WHITE GOLD WITH 0.31 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $1,800, DILAMANI, 516-466-6767, DILAMANI.COM; 18K WHITE GOLD RING WITH 2.78 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS, $17,340, 18K WHITE AND YELLOW GOLD RING WITH 3.28 CT. YELLOW DIAMOND CENTER AND 1.31. CTS. T.W. ROUND DIAMONDS, $57,206, CHRISTOPHER DESIGNS, 800-995-0970, CHRISTOPHERDESIGNS.COM; ASTRO RING IN 18K WHITE GOLD WITH 4.35 CT. MOONSTONE AND 0.34 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $1,600, LAURA MEDINE, 212-986-5700, LAURAMEDINE.COM

JUNE 2019

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To j o i n t h e c a m p a i g n , p l e a s e v i s i t w w w. d i a m o n d p r o d u c e r s . c o m

CONTENTS

JCKONLINE.COM

FEATURES 124

TIME AFTER TIME From two-tone metal models to blue-in-the-face designs, these are the season’s most stylish watches. BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

130

VIEWS FROM THE TOP

108

120

Five women in leadership positions in the jewelry industry reflect on the management strategies that have earned them high marks in the trade. BY MARTHA C. WHITE

136

116

124

MALLS OF AMERICA: PART 5 JCK ’s ongoing series on the shopping centers finding success amid an ever-changing retail landscape. In this issue: Las Vegas’ venerable Forum Shops. BY MATT VILLANO

138

150 YEARS, 150 VOICES: PART 4 In honor of JCK ’s 150th anniversary, we asked 150 jewelry insiders to discuss how the business has changed over the decades and our role in that evolution. BY WHITNEY SIELAFF

142

To celebrate the return of the JCK and Luxury shows to the Sands, five veteran showgoers reflect on what they loved most about the old venue (the parties!) and what they hope to find this year (new designers!). You can’t go home again? Watch us! BY EMILI VESILIND

(BOTTOM LEFT) PHOTOGRAPH BY JARED SOARES

AND THE SANDS PLAYED ON

JUNE 2019

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TWENTY YEARS. ONE SOURCE. ONE EXTRAORDINARY DIAMOND.

There is only one ASHOKA® diamond. First introduced by William Goldberg in 1999, the United States Patent and Trademark Office has recognized its distinctiveness by issuing a federal trademark registration covering the configuration of the stone. It is exclusive. It is extraordinary. And it cannot be duplicated. The ASHOKA® by William Goldberg. The Diamond of Legend.®

i n f o @w i l l i a m g o l d b e r g . c o m

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•

kwiat.com

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2 12 . 2 2 3 .1111

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CONTENTS

JCKONLINE.COM

DEPARTMENTS JEWEL BOX

5 things rocking the industry

36 FROM THE EDITOR 38 STAFF PICKS 40 FROM THE PUBLISHER 46 JCK INSIDER 48 JCKONLINE 50 SOCIAL DIARY 51 NEWS GEMS

The FTC cautions labgrown diamond sellers. GEM PRICING REPORT

56 58 THE CALENDAR

Industry shows, June 1–July 14, 2019

61 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER Paul Altieri of Bob’s Watches 64 RETAIL THERAPY Popular diamond jewelry 66 CAUSES TO CELEBRATE

69 THE LOOK 70 RED CARPET 72 DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Gabriel & Co.’s Jack and Dominick Gabriel JCK ASKS... Freida Rothman

149 THE VAULT 150 BRIDAL 152 SILVER 153 MEN’S 155 SHOW BIZ

JCK Las Vegas’ new Global Gemstone neighborhood

157 TOOL TIME

Easy ways to communicate with customers on social media

184 THE WAY WE WERE

Cover stories from 150 years of JCK

184

LOCKET: 14K GOLD–PLATED STERLING SILVER PAVÉ LARGE LOCK NECKLACE, $235, MICHAEL KORS

JUNE 2019

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COUTURE

FAIRWAY VILLA 111 Appointments: shanna.chaityn@swarovski.com

Cover Look

Yaelita 18k white gold earrings with 2.35 cts. t.w. diamonds; $11,838; Yael Designs; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com

18k white and yellow gold ring with 1.21 cts. t.w. diamonds; $8,550; Effy; 877-275-3339; effyjewelry.com

Wide Band Lusso ring in 14k white gold with 0.99 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,950; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com

DIAMONDS FOR DAYS

Asschers and ovals and pear shapes—oh my!

Fiori bracelet in 18k white gold with 7.85 cts. t.w. diamonds; $19,390; Ashi Couture; 212-319-8291; ashidiamonds.com

Duchess bracelet in 18k white gold with 3.35 cts. t.w. diamonds; $10,890; Ashi Couture

JUNE 2019

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Bracelet with 13.19 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $86,181; Christopher Designs

JCKONLINE.COM

Diamond Opera necklace in 18k white gold with 16.67 cts. t.w. diamonds; $84,000; Dilamani; 516-4666767; dilamani.com

Demure bangle in 14k white gold with 0.96 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,685; Gabriel & Co.

NOT PICTURED: Platinum bracelet with 17.06 cts. t.w. diamonds, $142,229, Christopher Designs, 800-955-0970, christopherdesigns.com; floral dome ring with 1.44 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $7,300, Jye’s International, 415-621-8880, jyescorp.com

NOT PICTURED: 18k white gold ring with 2.42 cts. t.w. diamonds; $17,618; Effy Platinum bracelet with 45.47 cts. t.w. diamonds; $900,000; Norman Silverman; 213-687-3985; normansilverman.com

Earrings with 46.38 cts. t.w. Asschercut Forevermark diamonds in platinum; price on request; Rahaminov Diamonds for Forevermark Diamonds; 213-6229866; rahaminov.com

YOU SHOW, GIRL! JCK Las Vegas returns to a sparkling new Sands

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY DIEGO UCHITEL Stylist: SORAYA DAYAN/ART DEPARTMENT; Hair: MOIZ ALLADINA USING R+CO/THE WALL GROUP; Makeup: HECTOR SIMANCAS USING CHANEL/ART DEPARTMENT: Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON/ ART DEPARTMENT; Model: LAUREN LAYNE/THE LIONS NY; Stylist Assistant: DANIEL ALVERO; Dress: NINA RICCI; Trench: WANDA NYLON JCKONLINE.COM

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JUNE 2019

the industry authority

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box 2

JEWELRY Game of Thrones Arya Stark Adjustable Trio Necklace with blue lace agate; $69; Alex and Ani; 800-725-7822; alexandani.com

18k white gold ring with 3 ct. heart-shape pink diamond and 3 cts. t.w. diamonds; $220,000; Cirari; 212-764-2823; cirari.com

SHOWS

It’s showtime—and if you work in the jewelry biz, you’re probably reading this in Sin City. JCK Las Vegas remains the Strip’s shining star during jewelry week, and this year, America’s biggest trade fair, along with sister show Luxury, returns to where it all began, the Sands Expo and The Venetian. “The campus is looking forward to welcoming JCK customers back,” says Reed Jewelry Group senior vice president Yancy Weinrich. “And we look forward to unveiling some new surprises.” Also taking place during jewelry week: the AGTA GemFair Las Vegas, Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show, Premier, and invitation-only Couture. It’s a typical Vegas offering: You can have the main meal or sample the buffet.

Alex and Ani leveraged Game of Thrones fever in April—when the HBO show’s final season kicked off—with the release of an 18-piece capsule collection composed of charm bracelets, button-style earrings, and pendants that pay homage to beloved characters Arya and Sansa Stark and Daenerys “Mother of Dragons” Targaryen, along with the show’s warring noble families. The Providence, R.I.–based brand nailed the details. The expandable Targaryen bracelet, for example, features charms depicting dragon glass, a dragon head, and a scaled dragon egg just itching to hatch.

JCKONLINE.COM

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Michael Kors— whose jewelry includes these rose gold–plated threader earrings ($120)—is one of the brands with Instagram Checkout.

SOCIAL Instagram finally lived up to its full retail potential in March when it debuted Checkout, which lets users in a shop-able post buy directly on the app—as opposed to being redirected to an outside site. The feature’s rollout will be progressive; it debuted with bigname retailers including Warby Parker, Dior, H&M, Uniqlo, and Zara. The user experience is easy—enter your name, billing/ payment info, and shipping address once, and it’s tap-and-buy from there. Cha-ching!

SMITHEE: COURTESY OF THE AMERICAN GEM SOCIETY

EDUCATION The American Gem Society’s annual Conclave, April 8–10 in downtown Seattle, offered 90+ sessions on retail management, marketing, social media, gemology, and more. Memorable breakouts included a look at fashion brands that are expanding into fine jewelry, how to sell to modern women, and a primer on creating video for social media—in which the Smithee Group’s Ben Smithee (pictured) told retailers that quantity is key: “Most companies worry too much about quality. But no one here is going to win an Oscar for your Valentine’s Day promotional video!” JCKONLINE.COM

JCK060119_034_JewelBox 2.indd 35

5 The Lesedi La Rona has produced 66 “satellite” stones, from under a carat to more than 26 cts.

DIAMONDS

At 1,109 cts., the Lesedi La Rona stands as the second-largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found. If such a stone has to be sliced and diced, you want to give it to someone like Laurence Graff, who bought the tennis ball–size rock in 2017 for $53 million and then spent 18 months puzzling out the best way to cut it. In April, his company unveiled the 302 ct. Graff Lesedi La Rona, the largest stone from the original piece. The GIA has given the emerald cut a D color grade, and it now stands as the largest emerald cut on record. Graff hopes to sell it later this year. JUNE 2019

5/9/19 5:49 PM

from the editor

The new Aria Emerald platinum and diamond ring ($3,490) by Design Center exhibitor Mia Katrin for Jewel Couture

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com JUNE 2019

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IT WAS 2000, and I’d just been hired by a fledgling B2B website called GemKey.com as its New York City–based pearl and watch editor. I knew nothing about pearls and even less about watches. A month into my new gig, my boss, Russ Shor, a former JCK diamond editor who would go on to work at GIA, told me I’d be going to Las Vegas to attend my first JCK show. I was thrilled—and stressed. My dear friend Jeannie had just been hired by G emConnect. com, GemKey’s biggest competitor, and would also be in Vegas. I marveled at how we’d managed to luck into the same industry yet land jobs at rival websites. We tried to pretend it didn’t matter. But the tension was thick. A face-off at the Sands Expo, JCK’s then home, was inevitable. Now, as the show prepares to return to the Sands after an eight-year spell at Mandalay Bay, all the emotions of my first JCK have come flooding back. The thrill of seeing gazillions of carats of diamonds under a single roof; the exhaustion I’d feel every morning crossing the bridge between Treasure Island and The Venetian; the discombobulation of trying to understand this strange and glamorous business; and, of course, the excitement and dread of knowing I was bound to run into my friend/professional adversary. (Jeannie and I ended up settling our differences over cocktails and roulette—as you do!)

In “And the Sands Played On” (page 142), senior editor Emili Vesilind asked five JCK show veterans to reflect on their favorite memories of the old Sands—and what they’re looking forward to seeing and doing this year, now that the venue has gone through a multimillion-dollar renovation. For old-timers like myself, the article is sure to prompt nostalgia. For newcomers, it’s a must-read guide to the show’s new-old home. Other highlights of this issue: news director Rob Bates’ insightful analysis of the eco-friendly claims made by producers of mined and lab-grown diamonds (“How Green Is Your Diamond?” on page 106); Vesilind’s thoughtful first-person essay about what it was like to spend a day “working” at Washington, D.C.’s I. Gorman Jewelers (“Salesperson for a Day,” page 120); and the fourth entry in our 150th- anniversary series (“150 Years, 150 Voices,” page 138) by Whitney Sielaff, who happens to be my old boss from my days at National Jeweler. Now in my 20th year as a jewelry editor, I understand something essential about the industry: It always comes full circle. And at the center of that circle lies JCK Las Vegas. The show is many things—a place to spot trends, meet customers, commune with friends, get educated— but above all, it’s where you go to appreciate your role in a centuries-old trade that year after year continues to feel fresh and exciting.

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

y first JCK show was a doozy.

JCKONLINE.COM

5/8/19 4:58 PM

JUNE 2019

the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS Ring with oneof-a-kind 3.63 ct. purple sapphire and brilliant white diamonds in recycled 14k yellow gold; $2,260; Chinchar/ Maloney; 503-9468227; chinchar maloney.com

44-inch sapphire knotted necklace with pavé diamond daisy and sapphire pendant; $6,600; Sheryl Lowe; 805969-1742; sheryl lowejewelry.com

Multicolored natural sapphire Joyce 5-stone drop earrings in 18k gold with diamond wires; $5,500; Lauren K; info@laurenk.com; laurenk.com

SAPPHIRE ESCAPE

Shades of Lavender sapphire bracelet in 14k yellow gold; $1,680; Eden Presley; sales@ edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com

What JCK magazine’s MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO is loving this month

Multicolored pastel baguette hoops with 1.9 cts. t.w. sapphires in 14k yellow gold; $795; Eriness; orders@eriness. com; eriness.com

“Dark blue sapphires might be the most popular, but I’ve always preferred the lighter colors. And how sweet are these rainbow combos?!”—Melissa Rose Bernardo, JCK managing editor

PORTRAIT: BRUCE GLIKAS

JCKONLINE.COM

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5/8/19 5:03 PM

FROM THE PUBLISHER

For more on the AGS Conclave in scenic Seattle, see Social Diary on page 50.

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com JUNE 2019

JCK060119_040_PUB_Letter.indd 40

WELCOME TO OUR best-read issue of the year, the June issue of JCK ! If you’re reading this at JCK Las Vegas, I hope you’ve noticed the beautiful 150th- anniversary graphics located above our show distribution stands. The milestone is such an exciting reminder of what an institution this publication (and now its website) is! We are thrilled that the JCK show has returned to the Sands Expo and Convention Center and The Venetian, and we’re sure that the show will provide the ideal mixture of selling, buying, education, networking, and just plain fun. I look forward to seeing so many friends from around the world this week. Speaking of seeing industry friends, I’ve recently returned from this year’s very successful American Gem Society (AGS) Conclave in Seattle. What a terrific edition of this event! Congrats to Katherine Bodoh, CEO of AGS, and John Carter, president of the board of AGS, on a truly memorable event. AGS also provided me and Jewelers of America’s Molly Fallon and Amanda Gizzi with a platform to present an update on the

“Got Milk?”–style generic jewelry ad campaign on which I am consulting with Jewelers of America (JA). The organization has raised nearly $200,000 to date (with $100,000 to go) to create a digital advertising test in 2019. To spearhead the creative, JA selected the venerable agency Cramer-Krasselt—and its digital offshoot, CK—and the creative tagline they introduced, “Another Piece of Your Story,” celebrates the role jewelry plays in a consumer’s life. Check out the campaign’s progress at jewelers.org/consumercampaign. Finally, thanks to super-host Monica Stephenson of iDazzle and Anza Gems, who held a Women’s Jewelry Association party at her family’s spectacular Seattle home. What an amazing evening of seeing terrific friends and making new ones, all in an inspirational setting. Such fun! I’m sure I’ll have many similar stories from Vegas to share in my next publisher’s letter in JCK ’s July/August issue. I’m already excited about the solid business—and solid fun— we’ll accomplish. Best of luck at the show!

SMELZER: PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; SEATTLE: FERRANTRAITE/ISTOCK/GETTY

t’s showtime!

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5/8/19 5:05 PM

S H YC R E AT I O N .CO M

2 1 3 . 6 2 3 . 8 9 0 0

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 150 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

EDITORIAL News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com

U.S. ADVERTISING SALES CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

Senior Editor & Social Media Director / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI

FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHIHART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors BALL & ALBANESE, KEVIN CREMENS, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN, KEN GUTMAKER, ETHAN HILL, NICOLE LaMOTTE, STEPHEN LEWIS, MARK LUND, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, GAVIN Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;NEILL, CODY PICKENS, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS, MIKAEL SCHULZ, PATRIC SHAW, JOEL STANS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENJI TOMA, DIEGO UCHITEL, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK

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PUBLISHED FOR REED EXHIBITIONS BY

VP, Content LIZ BUFFA

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com

VP, Business Development MATT CHERVIN

Marketing Manager / NATALIE CHOMET Account Director / HEATHER BOHL Art Director / ANDY ROSS Production Manager / NESTOR CERVANTES Marketing & Sales Coordinator / KATIE KENNEDY One World Trade Center, Floor 40 New York, NY 10007 For content marketing inquiries, please call 212-286-7330 headline-studio.com headline studio is a division of advance local

/ randy siegel, president

JCK May 31-June 3rd

Booth #10113 212-616-7661 info@royalindiausa.com

Pierced Diamonds

JCK May 31-June 3rd

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, Luxury, Swiss Watch, JIS & JCK Tucson) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 / yweinrich@reedexpo.com

I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305; cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com

888.674.8340 info@graymoorlanedesigns.com www.graymoorlanedesigns.com Graymoor Lane Designs is a division of Artistry, Ltd.

JCK TUCSON

Event Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedexpo.com

Account Executive NINA MANCINI Bridge, Design Center, Design@Luxury 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedexpo.com

Event Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@ reedexpo.com

Account Executive BARBARA MURRAY Global Gemstones, First Look 203-840-5820 bmurray@reedexpo.com

Event Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@ reedexpo.com

Sales Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Antique & Estate, JSA Security, Lab-Grown Diamonds 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com

Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedexpo.com

Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedexpo.com Special Events and Conference Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@reedexpo.com Strategic Accounts Manager JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Luxury 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedexpo.com International Accounts Manager ALEXANDRA WURSTER Passport, Hong Kong, Germany & International Companies 203-840-5332 awurster@reedexpo.com Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, Essentials & Technology, Gallery, Bella Italia, Retail Innovation 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedexpo.com

Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

THAILAND BUSABA THAWEEPHOON Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7374, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell 66-96-725-1525 busaba.thaw@reedtradex.co.th

CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

J C K L A S V E G A S , L U X U R Y & S W I S S WAT C H

Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedexpo.com

Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK • JCK Las Vegas JA NY • SJTA • Prime The Select Shows Centurion South Beach

ISRAEL RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive ANA CROSBY Bridal, Currents, Diamond Plaza, Plumb Club 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedexpo.com

Retailer Account Manager JCK Las Vegas MONALISA DEPINA 203-840-5556 mdepina@reedexpo.com Retailer Account Manager Luxury ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedexpo.com Marketing Manager JCK Las Vegas LINDSAY TYLER 203-840-5340 ltyler@reedexpo.com Marketing Manager / Luxury AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedexpo.com

Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedexpo.com Sales Manager NINA MANCINI Arizona Ballroom 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedexpo.com Account Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Tucson Ballroom 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedexpo.com Marketing Manager AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedexpo.com

Exquisite... as usual!

LUX #31093

20 West 47th Street, Suite 806, New York, NY 10036 Tel: 718-786-2900 • Fax: 718-361-2148 getanausa.com • getanausa@aol.com

BGK Graphics

Please visit us at Luxury By JCK

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE Designer Jewelry

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INSIDER

DID YOU KNOW?

Ginkgo Leaf After Rain Collection

The Venetian Resort Las Vegas, which comprises the Venetian and Palazzo, boasts 7,000+ suites—making it the largest hotel in the United States. JCK LAS VEGAS runs May 31–June 3.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT lasvegas.jckonline.com

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Contact our Sales Representatives at:

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Longtime Luxury-goers might notice a few new faces this year. Among the brands making their Luxury show debuts: engagement-ring experts Mars Fine Jewelry; Dorian & Rose, maker of the most covetable gold medallions; and Colorado’s Nina Nguyen, who’ll be showing her new interchangeable earrings (pictured).

Athens-based Frangos Jewelry is just one of the many Greek brands at JCK this year. Designer Nikolas Frangos promises “geometrical pieces ornate with Swarovski crystals” and jewels inspired by spring. “Expect a burst of colors!” SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM. JCKONLINE.COM

THE COLLECTIVE

REIMAGINING THE MARKET WEEK

EXPERIENCE 1 Badge | 1 Hall | 3 Shows Better Price | Exceptional Service Exhibiting Made Simple | Buying Made Simple

May 30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;June 3, 2019 | Las Vegas Convention Center

TheCollectiveLasVegas.com

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

the industry authority

ONLINE Color Fused By Fire

@JCKMagazine JCKmagazine @jckmagazine @jckmagazine

INSTAGEM

FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH Between the website thejewelleryeditor.com and all of its social platforms, editor-in-chief Maria Doulton and her team (@thejewelleryed ) have amassed nearly 3 million followers since only 2010—and it’s easy to see why. Her consumer-friendly, industry-minded coverage is smart, well-informed, and beautiful.

nicolebarr.com 877.810.7312

Lapis and turquoise rings from Egyptian brand Azza Fahmy

Up close and personal with a brooch from Chaumet’s summer 2017 high jewelry collection

Designer Coomi’s contemporary take on an ancient artifact

Feeling the Cannes film fest spirit with de Grisogono’s rubellite, sapphire, and emerald earrings

Making a Big Bang with Hublot’s Pop Art watch and its colorful changeable straps

Cozying up to a sculptural bangle by modern pearl designer Melanie Georgacopoulos

“This is one of my favorite shapes, so I am thrilled. I hope we get to see some video of it in ‘action.’ It looks exquisite.” —JCKonline reader leeaundra on “Graff Unveils Record-Breaking 302 Carat Emerald Cut” JCKONLINE.COM

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Social Diary

AGS CONCLAVE 2019

1 Shipley Award winner Kelly Newton (r.) with his wife, Marilyn

Displaying team spirit (and matching T-shirts) at Hearts On Fire trivia night

JCK publisher Mark Smelzer on Jewelers of America’s new consumer marketing campaign

AGS CEO Katherine Bodoh (c.) with the Responsible Jewellery Council’s Brandee Dallow (l.) and Edward Johnson

STONED IN SEATTLE

5 Retailer Alexis Padis with Whose Line Is It Anyway? improv actor Colin Mochrie JUNE 2019

JCK060119_050_SocialDiary.indd 50

World-renowned gemstone cutter Roger Dery

JCK Events’ Isabel Cajulis, Sarin Bachmann, and Monalisa DePina

Jennifer Susan Pusenkoff leading the “Fashion Goes Fine Jewelry” session

COURTESY OF THE AMERICAN GEM SOCIETY

Spotted at the American Gem Society’s April Conclave in the Emerald City: gem nerds, trivia hounds, improv stars, and education junkies

JCKONLINE.COM

5/8/19 5:14 PM

the industry authority

JUNE 2019

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS Solitaire and halo rings with lab-grown diamond centers and accents and aquamarine cushion ring with lab-grown diamond accents from Gemvara

What’s Clicking on JCKonline

The top stories for April. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline. com/newsletters/subscribe.

Signet President Resigns,

Company Closing 150 Stores: The mega-jeweler’s president Sebastian Hobbs resigned in April, around the time Signet announced its full-year financial results.

State Department Warns

of Coming Jewelry Industry Crackdown: In April, U.S. State Department officials bluntly told industry officials they must provide new information about where their materials come from.

FTC Warns Lab-Grown

Diamond Companies About Marketing: The Federal Trade Commission sent out letters to eight companies regarding issues in their ads.

FTC’s Warning Letters

Ripple Through LabGrown Industry: News director Rob Bates looks at the possible effect of the group’s actions.

GIA Changes Lab-Grown

Diamond Reports (A Little): The GIA lab no longer includes the word synthetics on its reports, but is sticking with its wider grading scale.

GLOBAL WARNING

The FTC cautions sellers of lab-grown and simulant diamonds BY ROB BATES

N EARLY APRIL, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) sent warning letters to eight companies that sell lab-grown diamonds and look-alike diamond simulants, warning them that their communications don’t adhere to the commission’s Jewelry Guides and could mislead or confuse consumers. The move received widespread attention, as it is rare for the FTC to take any kind of action to enforce its Jewelry Guides, never mind eight warnings at once. Among the lab-grown companies that received warnings, according to a Freedom of Information Act request: Diamond Foundry, Pure Grown Diamonds, and Ada Diamonds, which were cited for allegedly not having “clear and conspicuous” disclosure of their stones’ origins and making general eco-benefit claims (see feature on page 106). Foundry and Pure Grown were also warned about using non-FTC-approved terminology like aboveground. Simulant sellers Agape Diamonds, Diamond Nexus, MiaDonna, Stauer, and Timepieces International were warned their advertising could make consumers believe that their

JCKONLINE.COM

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NEWS GEMS

THE

An 8 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamond tennis bracelet by Ada Diamonds

JVC’s Tiffany Stevens

simulated diamond jewelry contains mined or lab-created diamonds. Some were also cited for eco-benefit claims. Not all the companies could be reached for comment, but Ada and MiaDonna said the matter has been settled. Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) president and CEO Tiffany Stevens says the agency’s action suggested that it was seeking tighter compliance to its Guides than it seemed after last summer’s revision: “This changes the conversation a bit.” She says the FTC has officially okayed the terms laboratory-created, laboratory-grown, and [manufacturer]-created as descriptors for man-made gems. Yet, it’s become common for companies to use their own terms such as aboveground real. “The way we’ve been presenting it to the industry is that using [another term] is a risk,” says JVC senior counsel Sara Yood. “If you want to try a fourth term, you can, but you are at risk for enforcement by the FTC.” Federal Trade Commission attorney Robert Frisby, whose name is on the letters, tells JCK that companies aren’t necessarily proscribed from using other terms, but any terminology must be clear to the consumers. “Hypothetically, there might be an advertisement that doesn’t exactly follow the FTC Guides that isn’t deceptive,” he says. “It comes down to the net impression of the advertisement.” If a company intends to use a new term, it might want to do market research to ensure that the term is clear, Frisby adds. “You could look at some of the Guide provisions as almost a safe harbor,” he says. “If you don’t follow them, you might not be deceiving people. But if you follow the Guides, you are on firmer ground.” He notes that if the FTC were ever to bring an enforcement action against the companies, it would shoulder the burden of proving the communications were deceptive. Stevens thinks the FTC’s current crackdown is a reaction to what happened after it handed the lab-grown industry a slew of favorable rulings with the FTC revision last summer. “Some people got really wild with their interpretations,” she says. “They started making up their own reality and not really referencing what the Guides said. They didn’t think that anyone would come knocking.”

“It’s a very emotional place. Everyone is there for a special reason. Even if they come in just to look, they are there to soak in the atmosphere. There’s no place like it in the world.” —Tiffany & Co. chief gemologist Melvyn Kirtley on the retailer’s New York City flagship, to the United Arab Emirates newspaper The National

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

Q&A

3 Questions for...

TOM MOSES

DIAMOND-GROWING PHOTOS: © GIA (2)

GIA EXECUTIVE VICE president and chief laboratory and research officer Tom Moses recently spoke to JCK at GIA’s instrument development hub in New Jersey, where he discussed the new lab-grown grading reports, country-of-origin reports, and why GIA is now growing diamonds. —RB GIA just changed its lab-grown diamond grading reports, but it’s still using a narrower scale for lab-growns than for naturals. Why is that? If you go back 75 years to when the original scale was developed, the continuum was one of rarity. [A color grade of ] D was the rarest, getting less rare with more yellow color. Labgrown diamonds have no correlation to that. [With] this population, if you want to grow D, you dial the knobs. We asked: Does it make sense to have a system that was designed for this population distribution of natural diamonds, and apply it to lab-grown? Or, just as happened 75 years ago, do you wait and look at the distribution and then make a [new] system, if the public wants it? Certainly, logically, that would make more sense. What the public wants, we just don’t know. For the last several years, GIA has had reactors that grow diamonds JCKONLINE.COM

by the chemical vapor deposition method. Why are you doing that? Our fundamental goal is to have as deep an understanding as we can of the chemistry of a diamond. We’re doing it for one simple purpose: to make sure the public knows what they are getting. It’s the same objective we have had for a long time. GIA has reintroduced its country-of-origin reports, which it formerly called M2M, or Mine to Market. Have you found a big demand in the industry for that? That is an area where there really is growing interest. It’s not just in our industry. You see all the brand names who want to know where all

the leather in their goods comes from. It’s natural that people want to know where their diamond is from. We have the only service that uses physical analysis and evidence [of rough and polished] and connects the dots. Maybe a few years ago, we were a little early and/or the program was maybe too complicated. But now it’s been re-energized. The interest is picking up seemingly by the day.

A diamond crystal glows red inside of a CVD growth reactor at GIA; a 2 mm square CVD-grown synthetic diamond on a substrate, 19x

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

With a Silver Price Tag ® 18k white gold Wing earrings with 10.18 cts. t.w. diamonds; price on request; Forevermark; 203-388-3544; forevermark.com

COMINGS AND GOINGS

der Veken previously served as director of public affairs and international policy for the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre and also worked for Signet Jewelers and Rosy Blue.

Darin Rabb Darin Rabb has become the North American brand president of IWC Schaffhausen. He was most recently vice president of global retail brand marketing at Nike. Sebastian “Seb” Hobbs, who served as Signet Jewelers president and chief customer officer since 2017, stepped down from the role in April.

954.578.1880 www.sterlingreputation.com

Stop By For A Free Diamond Ring* JCK Booth #14131 *While Supplies Last.

Iris Van der Veken

Johnnie White to be its

new CEO. An association professional, White replaces Lee P. Hackett, a career appraiser who has served as ASA’s CEO on an interim basis since October 2017. Chippenhook, the Lewisville, Texas–based manufacturer of luxury packaging and displays, recently hired Kirk Aronson to be its vice president of business development. He previously worked as vice president of sales for Versace and Bell & Ross.

RJ Watches, formerly known as RJ Romain Jérôme, has named Benoit Vulliet its new managing director of the Americas. Vulliet is the former director of sales and marketing for North America for LVMH’s Zenith brand.

Bonhams has appointed Leslie Roskind as a senior

Kirk Aronson

jewelry specialist. She most recently worked at Fred Leighton and Windsor Jewels.

Jeremy Schwartz, the former Body Shop CEO who has been Pandora’s chief operating of-

The Responsible Jewellery Council has appointed Iris Van der Veken as its executive director. She replaces Andrew Bone, who announced his intention to retire last year. Van

ficer since September, has left the company. Schwartz and chief financial officer Anders Boyer had served as co-CEOs on an interim basis following the departure of CEO Anders Colding Friis last year.

Johnnie White

The American Society of Appraisers has appointed

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

Runwell Automatic 45 mm in stainless steel case with midnight blue dial and dark cognac leather strap; $1,095; Shinola; 888-3042534; shinola.com

GIA has appointed Shahdeh Ammadi to as director of

institute relations, a newly created position. In her new role, Ammadi, who previously worked at C olumbia University, will oversee GIA’s global alumni program, its guest service team, and GemKids, which teaches children about gemology.

will retire in July after 30 years with the company.

Nancy Liu

The Palm Beach Show Group has named company veteran Jaime Kantor its new chief operating officer. She replaces Dale Chlumsky, who will continue to be involved as a company consultant and adviser.

De Beers Group has a ppointed Nancy Liu as CEO of its diamond brand Forever mark. She was previously its chief operating officer. She replaces Stephen Lussier, who will continue to shape De Beers’ consumer strategy and remains the brand’s chairman.

of more than 300 stores in March, two months after it filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection. On April 4, Art Fashion Corp., the North American arm of the brand of designer Roberto Cavalli, filed for Chapter 7 bankruptcy in U.S. District Court for the Southern District of New York. Lois Hill, the handcrafted silver jewelry designer, has signed a license agreement with New York City–based Unique Designs to distribute and sell her product.

REMEMBERED Richard “Dick” Greenwood,

owner of gem company

Jaime Kantor

Auction house Phillips has appointed Graeme T hompson as its worldwide head of jewelry. Based in Hong Kong, Thompson previously served as director of jewelry in Asia for rival auction house Bonhams. Mastoloni has hired M aureen McIntyre as director of

merchandising and sales for its Gifts of the Sea division. She replaces director of sales Cathy Dressing, who

JCKONLINE.COM

JCK060119_051_NEWSGEMS_v2.indd 55

A.F. Greenwood Co. Inc. and former leader at the American Gem Trade Association and Jewelers Board of Trade, died April 13. He was 70.

Gemologist E. Alan Jobbins, a founder of the International Colored Gemstone A ssociation

and past president of the ociety of Jewellery Historians, S died Feb. 9. He was 95.

COMPANIES Shopko, the Green Bay, Wis.– based department store chain that sells jewelry, announced plans to liquidate its fleet

Lois Hill

Jewelry manufacturer and retailer Iconery has been acquired by Heartbeat, am arketing technology platform that connects brands with millennial and Gen Z audiences. Iconery founder Ivka Adam will remain CEO of Iconery and become chief marketing officer of Heartbeat. De Beers is closing the International Institute of Diamond Valuation, which

it debuted in 2014 with

hopes of improving the diamond buyback experience. The company said that “consumer-to-consumer” diamond recycling was now the best way to ensure consumers get fair value. Michael C. Fina, an 85-year-old New York City jeweler that shut its brickand-mortar store in 2016 to concentrate on online sales, is closing for good.

president and CEO Alan Zimmer, Chow Tai Fook North America president Caryl Capeci, and Leo Schachter Diamond Group principal Elliot Tannenbaum at its 2019 Circle of Distinction dinner July 30 at the Plaza hotel in New York City.

HONORED Caryl Capeci

Alan Zimmer

The American Gem Society will honor Reeds

Elliot Tannenbaum JUNE 2019

5/8/19 5:17 PM

news gems

DESIGNER SALES BOOST MARKET

AFTER WEAKENING IN March, the colored stone market showed a marked improvement in April. Ruby and sapphire still lead this category, but demand is reportedly good for many other gems. Aquamarine, morganite, spinel, most garnet varieties, and tourmaline have all been good sellers. Dealers also report a perceivable shift regarding consumption. Buyers are turning out to be people who make jewelry. Mass-produced, prefabricated jewelry is not seeing the demand it once did, except in the commercial end of the market. More people are looking for gems that will fulfill a specific design feature. Custom jewelers and designers focusing on finer quality, limited production lines, and individual pieces are becoming influential buyers in the market. Another area showing increased growth is cultured pearls. Freshwater and seawater cultured varieties provide a broad palette of colors and shapes. Contributing to their favorability is their wide range of price points. Pearls are one of the most affordable gem products one can buy. Currently, demand is strongest for fine quality, round pearls of white, silver, or black body colors in 7 mm–9 mm sizes.

VS1

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SI1

SI2

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$5,700 $5,450

FINE

Alexandrite $4,720

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

$4,470

Rhodolite Garnet I

$5,700

$5,200

$4,950

$4,000

$4,900

$4,500

$4,080

$3,760

1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round G H

$3,570 $3,200

$3,200 $3,000

$2,700 $2,600

Rubellite Tourmaline $2,340

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

$2,270

Tsavorite Garnet I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant G H

$12,200 $10,300

$11,300 $10,000

$9,350 $8,300

1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp) $7,600

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

$7,150

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I

$9,700

$7,900

$7,600

$6,725

$7,200

$7,300

$6,400

$6,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

Pink Sapphire $6,600

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

JUNE 2019

the industry authority

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR

U.S.

INTERNATIONAL

• JUNE

1–3

13–15

NORTON’S A PPAREL, JEWELRY & GIFTS SHOW

jubinale.com/en

beadandbutton show.com

June Birthstone

5–8

PEARL

HYDERABAD JEWELLERY, PEARL AND GEM FAIR

exhibitions. jewellerynet. com/6jg/en-us

29–JULY 1 TENDENCE Frankfurt, Germany

tendence.messe frankfurt.com

27–JULY 3 MASTERPIECE LONDON

14–16

2–9

DALLAS APPAREL & ACCESSORIES MARKET

Hong Kong

Kraków, Poland

nortonshows.com

Milwaukee

HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR

JUBINALE SUMMER

Gatlinburg, Tenn.

BEAD & BUTTON SHOW

20–23

London

masterpiecefair.com

Hyderabad, India hyderabad. jewelleryfair.in

Bird Cage earrings with Tahitian pearls in handmade sterling silver and diamond cage; $11,880; Vincent Peach; 615-378-1374; vincentpeach.com

London calling! View the Masterpieces June 27–July 3.

Dallas

dallasmarket center.com

GEMFAIRE

Salt Lake City gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Denver

intergem.com

SAN ANTONIO WHOLESALE JEWELRY, GIFTS & ACCESSORIES SHOW San Antonio

parkertradeshow.com

9–11

[PRE]COTERIE/ FAME/MODA/ ACCESSORIES THE SHOW New York City

ubmfashion.com

14–16

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Houston

intergem.com

21–23

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Austin, Texas intergem.com

JUNE SAMPLE SALE Hudson, Mass. northeastmarket center.com

24–25

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD

GEMFAIRE San Diego

gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Timonium, Md.

• JULY

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Novi, Mich.

5–7

intergem.com

GEMFAIRE

Eugene, Ore. gemfaire.com

intergem.com

29–30

ATLANTA BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW

Roswell, Ga.

americanbead shows.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

intergem.com

13–14

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

Memphis, Tenn.

intergem.com

AMERICAN BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW americanbead shows.com

Pasadena, Calif. intergem.com

12–14

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS

Miami

iwjg.com

glwshows.com

GEMFAIRE

Hudson, Mass.

28–30

FLORIDA JEWELRY & RESORT EXPO

northeastmarket center.com

San Mateo, Calif.

Marlborough, Mass.

Livonia, Mich.

JUNE MARKET DAY

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

SEE YOU THERE! LUXURY & SWISS WATCH MAY 29–JUNE 3

JIS EXCHANGE

MAY 30–JUNE 3

Portland, Ore. gemfaire.com

JCK LAS VEGAS

Kissimmee, Fla.

MAY 31–JUNE 3

gtshows.com

IAKOV KALININ/ISTOCK/GETTY

7–9

JCKONLINE.COM

JCK060119_058_Calendar.indd 58

5/8/19 5:21 PM

the industry authority

JUNE 2019

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK WHAT ABOUT BOB?

Rolex e-tailer Paul Altieri on his digital alter ego and the growth in pre-owned watch sales BY EMILI VESILIND

HE DEMAND FOR Daytonas, Submariners, and other iconic Rolex timepieces has made the venerable Swiss brand the most counterfeited watchmaker in the world. With so many high-quality fakes circulating, the retail landscape for shoppers has become perilous, says Paul Altieri, founder and CEO of pre-owned Rolex e-tailer Bob’s Watches. “Ten years ago, I could spot a fake Rolex from across a living room,” he says. “Today, China’s making $300 to $500 copies that are so good, it can take us an hour to find out that they’re fake.” Altieri, a longtime Rolex collector who formerly worked in real estate, bought vintage timepieces in the 1990s and early 2000s on eBay and Craigslist, the main marketplaces of the day, but found himself “wishing for a way for people to buy and sell Rolex watches in an open, safe network,” he says. He ultimately answered his own call by debuting the Rolex Exchange in 2010 (the company became Bob’s Watches after a later acquisition).

JUSTIN MORTON

Paul Altieri Bob’s Watches bobswatches.com

JCKONLINE.COM

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5/8/19 5:23 PM

shop talk

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

A group of stainless steel blue dial Rolex Oyster Perpetuals

The site guarantees every watch on its platform is composed of 100 percent Rolex-made parts and backs its guarantee with a certificate. The Newport Beach, Calif.–based company struck a chord with consumers immediately, taking in $2 million in revenue the first year. Nine years later, it’s one of the biggest pre-owned Rolex sellers globally; the business posted $47 million in revenue in 2018. Not bad for a website named Bob. How did you get into Rolexes initially? I’ve always loved Rolex watches, even when I was a kid. I was a golf caddy at 14 or 15 years old, and a lot of golfers at the club wore Rolex watches. I always said, Someday if I can buy a Rolex, I will. What made you think that a platform like Rolex Exchange/ Bob’s Watches could fly? The pre-owned and vintage market for Rolex was huge already, but how could you feel like you were buying the real thing on sites like eBay? I thought, We should create a safe and secure platform for collectors and consumers; we should show the “buy” and “sell” price for each watch. I started with two employees and didn’t take any [venture capital] money, had no lines of credit, and no shareholders. We were able to grow patiently. JUNE 2019

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What makes Bob’s different from the other pre-owned luxury watch e-commerce sites? We are totally transparent about how much a watch buys and sells for. We also guarantee that a watch is 100 percent authentic. Because what we found was that, yes, people want a good price—of course they do. But first and foremost, they want a Rolex

(Above) Servicing a movement on a Rolex; (l.) a Rolex GMT-Master

“People don’t want anything less than 100 percent authentic when it comes to Rolex. Authenticity is more important than price or condition.” —Paul Altieri

that’s 100 percent Rolex. They don’t want one with a diamond bezel made in Texas and a dial from China. How do you authenticate your timepieces? We found a vendor, a company called Watch CSA, to do the authenticating. We have no interest in them financially. We partner with them and pay for their service. This level of authentication is important because Rolex is all about quality and craftsmanship. The crystal on Rolex watches is about $200, cost. The aftermarket ones from Japan or China are very good quality, but aren’t the same quality as Rolex. People want the genuine

Rolex crystal, hands, and bracelet. Customers are hyper-focused on this. What are the most popular Rolex models on the site right now? We sell a lot of Submariners, Daytonas, GMTs—mostly sport models. The only thing that’s gotten a little soft is ladies’ watches, I think because more women are wearing the men’s styles. People usually come to the site having done their homework about the watches and us. You have an office with a showroom in Newport Beach—what’s it like? We were in Huntington Beach for years, but we outgrew it and moved into a 10,000-square-foot stand-alone

building. We have a showroom that’s by-appointment, but people do walk in on occasion. Since we’re near John Wayne Airport, people will fly in to shop sometimes. The website introduced watch auctions last year. What was the impetus for those? We developed our own technology to sell watches through an auction format. The prices on some vintage Rolex watches have gone up so fast, and sometimes that means not everyone has access to them. With the auction format, we can announce that, say, four watches will go up for auction Monday. It gives everyone a chance to bid and makes buying a Rolex a little more egalitarian.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.

JCKONLINE.COM

5/8/19 5:23 PM

May 30 – June 3, 2019 | Las Vegas Convention Center

Strategically conceived; thoughtfully executed; cultivating a c the entire industry. PREMIER™ designers, to well-respected high volume manufacturers, and everything in between. Co-located with AGTA GemFair™ Las Vegas and the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show, their buying needs in one convenient location. All 3 events will be on one level, in one hall, creating an easy to navigate shopping environment.

PREMIERShow.com

Proudly made in the USA Since 1951

Shop Talk

SMASH CUTS BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: What are your store’s most popular requests when it comes to diamond jewelry? a: Radiant rounds are always a classic, but because we’re such big fans of more nontraditional cuts, our customers are often curious about them too. Our clients love the rustic rose cuts. We see these mostly in ovals, rounds, and pear shapes. We make a diamond stud in a triangle formation with rose cuts that does really well for us; it’s our take on a classic diamond earring and has a matching necklace. There’s a lot of interest in emerald-cut diamonds too, especially in pieces with an eastwest orientation. And Jennie Kwon has a gorgeous stud that includes baguettes and round diamonds that we adore.

ELIZA SPELL CO-OWNER NINE ROSES JEWELERS Richmond, Va. ninerosesjewelers.com

JENNIFER LAVORANTE GENERAL MANAGER REINSTEIN/ROSS New York City reinsteinross.com

a: Our most popular cuts are oval and round. While World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry JCK Las Vegas Booth #50006 Atlanta Jewelry Show Booth #1128

516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com

the stones themselves are more traditional, our settings are what make our pieces feel innovative. Many of our customers who are shopping for diamond jewelry will actually work with our goldsmiths to customize a piece. We have extremely talented artisans on-site to work one-on-one with clients to select their stones and settings as well as custom alloys unique to us. DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

VANESSA ROSS DESIGN & SHOWROOM DIRECTOR CUSTOM JEWELRY LAB Charlotte, N.C. customjewelrylab.com

a: A classic round brilliant diamond is consistently our most popular shape, cut, and stone. However, I’ve noticed an upswing as of late for more unique cuts. We have an increasing number of requests for rose cuts and square shapes. Cushion cuts have been quite popular this year as well as emerald cuts, and we’ve had requests for baguette-cut diamonds in earrings and rings.

LAUREN BEHAR SHMUELI DIAMOND & JEWELRY ADVISER LAUREN B New York City laurenbjewelry.com

a: The clients are requesting more jewelry pieces in rose gold and yellow gold than ever, with daintier diamond accents in interesting shapes. Rounds are still popular, but emerald cuts, marquise, and pear are resurging, with smaller hoops and layerable mini pendants in demand. Thinner stacking-style rings in various-color golds and with various diamond shapes are being requested as well. These rings are worn on multiple fingers, even somewhat mismatched in appearance. The look has an easy, thrown-together feeling for everyday wear. JCKONLINE.COM

SHOP TALK

CAUSES TO CELEBRATE

Sarah Ho’s Full Circle earrings with diamonds, 7.86 cts. t.w. orange and 7.91 cts. t.w. pink conch pearls, and 6.97 ct. orange and 7.55 ct. pink imperial topaz in 18k rose gold

“The story of this collection is the story of the stone.” —Sarah Ho

ORIGIN STORIES

Sarah Ho’s Full Circle project gives back to local communities and their environment

W BY LAUREN PARKER

(Top and below) Sarah Ho visiting Suwaidi Pearls

JUNE 2019

JCK060119_066_SHOP_CausesToCelebrate.indd 66

ITH HER NEW Full Circle collection, London-based jewelry designer Sarah Ho sources exceptional gems from around the world, creates exclusive jewelry designs highlighting those stones, then gives back to the local communities of origin. It’s a circular journey, literally from the ground up. Gemstones have always formed the centerpiece of Ho’s designs, and the Full Circle project helps protect the regions where they are sourced as well as the communities involved.

“I’ve had the idea for Full Circle in my mind for a while now,” Ho says. “I wanted to find a cause that I can fully support and has a lasting legacy. As a jewelry designer, I am surrounded by gemstones, and it seemed right that the origin of the stone should benefit from the final jewelry piece.” Finding appropriate suppliers to partner up with was key to the project. “I began looking into the supply process for stones—where they come from and how they arrive to us—and found my partners, Hong Kong–based Gem Forest and Dubai-based Suwaidi Pearls,” Ho says. “They are both so passionate about their gems.” These companies “know where their jewels come from and everyone involved in the supply chain. It’s been wonderful to work with them and share our knowledge.” Ho personally selects each one-of-akind stone, then designs the jewelry to specifically highlight each stone. “The story of this collection is the story of the stone—from the ground to the beautiful polished final piece,” she says. “The first eight pieces of the collection have incredibly rare central stones of almost perfect quality, and I pushed my designs to enhance and focus the attention on these.”

Stones in the initial collection include a 7.45 ct. sapphire from Madagascar, an 8.41 ct. spinel from Vietnam, and a 10.09 ct. tsavorite from Tanzania. Details like diamond bead dangles on a spinel ring or red and orange imperial topaz set inversely on a pair of earrings highlight Ho’s design skills. And more Full Circle pieces and collections are in the works. While many philanthropic jewelry programs give back directly to those in the industry, Full Circle expands that radius. Take the pearls used in Ho’s Full Circle collection, which are farmed at the Al Rams lagoon in the Persian Gulf. “Suwaidi Pearls are helping clean the waters and educate people about pollution in the waters. Other projects are helping plant trees,” Ho says. “We want local communities and the environment to benefit from these donations.” To ensure that those who purchase a Full Circle piece understand the good it is doing, Ho meets each client personally to discuss the project, offering information about the stone and gifting her original design painting. “Everyone we have spoken to has been so enthusiastic and loves the idea that the piece they have has contributed to helping us improve our planet.” JCKONLINE.COM

5/8/19 5:26 PM

LV Booth #21103

Please Request Our 2019 Catalog 833 Market Street, 10th Floor • San Francisco, CA 94103 • Tel: (415) 543-1580 • 800-864-0767 • Fax: (415) 398-3699 www.herco.com • Email: info@herco.com

the industry authority

JUNE 2019

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK 1

4 MINT CONDITION 1/ Swivel earrings with green turquoise in 14k yellow gold; $3,960; Retrouvaí; 646-745-6831; retrouvai.com

2/ Constellation Dome ring with paraiba tourmaline and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $32,000; Adam Foster Fine Jewelry; 314-771-3390; fosterjewelry.com

3/ LOVE necklace with agate, pink sapphires, diamonds, and enamel in 20k yellow gold; $64,000; Buddha Mama; 305-439-2059; buddhamama.com

4/ Paraiba tourmaline and diamond earrings in titanium; $45,000; Saboo Fine Jewels; saboofj@saboofj. com; saboofj.com

A fresh take on green— using various gems and materials—is a cool breeze on a summer day BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

5/ Green Bakelite and blue circles bangle with mixed gemstones in 18k yellow gold; $4,460; Mark Davis; 718-383-3515; markdavis.com

JCKONLINE.COM

JCK060119_069_LOOK_Opener.indd 69

5/8/19 5:28 PM

the look

RED CARPET

THE FEATHER GIRLS Not only is the fly look on our cover model, but it’s also on Hollywood’s chicest celebs BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Even if you don’t keep up with the Kardashians, you might have heard that model Kendall—sister of makeup mogul Kylie and half-sis of media conglomerate Kim—is featured in Tiffany & Co.’s spring 2019 a dvertising campaign. So naturally Kendall jetted to Sydney for the opening of a new Tiffany store in April, dressed in a ruffled pink Ingie Paris mini. And what goes better with feathers than a beguiling butterfly pendant? Necklace with morganite, pink tourmaline, pink sapphires, and diamonds; price on request; Tiffany & Co.

UNDER $10,000

TRACEE ELLIS ROSS

In honor of the diva-tastic Diana Ross’ 75th birthday, daughter Tracee pulled out all the stops: a slinky peach Versace dress; a sleek ’70s ’do; and, in homage to her feather-loving mom, a disco-fabulous melon-hued Marc Jacobs coat. (Diana wore feathers—a pink bolero—that night too!) Just as cool as her coat: her articulated Cartier fan ring. Of her style, Tracee took no credit that evening, commenting on Instagram: “I get it from my Mama.” Collection Délices de Cartier Fan ring with multicolored sapphires, mandarin garnets, and diamonds in 18k gold; $18,500; Beladora; sales@beladora.com; beladora.com

Butterfly pendant with 1.75 cts. t.w. pink sapphires and 0.57 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k rose gold; $7,695; Effy; 877-275-3339; effyjewelry.com

UNDER $5,000

UNDER $2,500 Butterfly collar with lab-grown diamonds in 18k rose and white gold vermeil; £1,690 ($2,210); Anabela Chan; sales@ anabelachan.com; anabelachan.com

JUNE 2019

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JENNER: BYLINE RICHARD MILNES/MEGA/NEWSCOM; ROSS: GINA/42/MEGA/NEWSCOM; JENNER’S NECKLACE: TIFFANY & CO.

KENDALL JENNER

UNDER $100

Floral Rawa Ghungroo Spinning ring in goldplated silver with pink glass; $55; Tribe by Amrapali; newyork@ amrapalijewels.com; tribebyamrapali.com

Matahari ring with amethyst, fire opal, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold with black rhodium; £2,280 ($2,982); Venyx World; info@ venyxworld.com; venyxworld.com JCKONLINE.COM

5/8/19 5:30 PM

P. 212 - 764-2823

JCK Las Vegas Booth# 24087

info@cirari.com

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Art Moderne necklace with 3.16 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $10,815; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com

Gabriel & Co.’s Jack and Dominick Gabriel have built a jewelry brand founded on values they acquired in their native Lebanon

BY KATHY HENDERSON

Nova ring in 14k white gold with 0.68 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,100 (without center stone)

JUNE 2019

JCK060119_072_LOOK_DesignerShowcase.indd 72

HEN DOMINICK GABRIEL arrived in America from war-torn Lebanon in 1983, he was 13 years old and spoke no English. “Very difficult,” he says now of settling down in suburban Long Island, where his fluency in Arabic, French, and Turkish didn’t matter very much. Fortunately, he was part of a strong and loving family led by his father, jeweler Elias Gabriel, who followed Dominick and older brother Jack to the United States from Beirut a year later. By 1987, Elias had set up a small shop offering distinctive pieces and first-class customer service, with his sons behind the counter. Two years after that, Jack and Dominick (pictured above) felt ready to open their own wholesaling business in Manhattan’s Diamond District. An inspiring immigrant success story? Definitely. But the Gabriel brothers surpassed even their wildest expectations on the road to celebrating their company’s 30th anniversary this fall. Gabriel & Co. has evolved into one of the c ountry’s leading makers of fine jewelry, named “best-performing brand” numerous times by the 1,200 retailers who carry the line. Thanks to Dominick’s design and sales expertise and Jack’s focus on finance, this family-owned business flourished by combining fine craftsmanship and accessible prices, offering multiple collections of d iamond-encrusted bracelets, earrings, necklaces, and rings set mostly in white, yellow, and rose gold. “Two brothers with completely different personalities, creating a successful business that we are passionate about in different ways—the odds of that happening are rare,” says Dominick, seated next to Jack in the company’s New

PORTRAIT: ANGELENE CORONEL

IMMIGRANT SONG

JCKONLINE.COM

5/9/19 12:24 PM

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Bujukan bangles with 0.19 ct. t.w.–0.59 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k rose gold; $915–$1,910

Lusso bar necklace with 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $1,010

Hampton ring with 0.52 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $1,715

“People have a connection with jewelry that goes up over time.”

York City headquarters, a full floor in a West Side commercial building with a striking glass-box showroom in the center. Similarly dressed in white shirts under gray —Dominick Gabriel vests, the brothers speak teasingly about each other’s strengths. “You give me a problem, and I add everything up in my head,” Jack says. “The dots have to connect for it to make sense.” Gesturing to Dominick, he adds, “He looks at the big picture.” Responds Dominick: “Let’s put it this way. In every company, you need creative and you need operations, and he pushes me by asking questions. Why are we designing certain products? How should we partner with retailers? Most designers don’t have an older brother like Jack Gabriel asking, ‘Why? How?’ That process helps our merchandising become more consumer-centric.” Jack’s fondness for the Socratic method meshed perfectly with Dominick’s hunger to figure out the likes and dislikes of jewelry customers. The designer’s aha moment came when he stumbled upon the Myers-Briggs personality test online. Fascinated by the quiz’s combinations of traits (introversion versus extroversion; thinking versus feeling), he sketched out

JUNE 2019

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five jewelry personalities: Urban Sophisticated (think Audrey Hepburn), Fresh and Free-Spirited (Kate Hudson), Modern Romantic (Amy Adams), Casual Cool (Hailee Steinfeld), and New Horizon Seeker (Lupita Nyong’o). By zeroing in on a client’s style, Gabriel retailers could suggest appropriate pieces from the company’s extensive product lines. As chief design officer, Dominick decides on overall themes for the yearly collections and sketches ideas that are interpreted by an in-house design team. From some 2,000 potential designs, 500 pieces a year are introduced, many of them refined in response to comments from Gabriel & Co.’s whopping 5 million Facebook followers and 400,000 Instagram followers. The company embraced social media early on, when most brands didn’t understand how to use it as a marketing tool, says Dominick, who favors targeted posts to different sectors of his audience and uses feedback to tweak collections including Amavida (black-tie fine jewelry) and Bujukan (youthful designs, such as cute stackable bangles). Opening a display case in the showroom, Dominick points out a circular pavé-diamond drop earring. “This is conservative with a little edge,” he says, before picking up a sculptural hinged style. “This is edgier.” Every earring in the case is coated with tiny diamonds, prompting a discussion of quality-control procedures at the company’s JCKONLINE.COM

5/9/19 12:24 PM

P: 212.730.1888

Booth# LUX 1123

info@dabakarov.com

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE Hampton tennis bracelet with 0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $3,705

Hampton necklace with 0.47 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $1,690

Kaslique ring with 1.05 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $2,835

Hampton earring with 0.39 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $1,155

facility in China’s Panyu manufacturing district, which opened in 2004. “We have five people in our factory with 150 years of [combined] experience who review every design, and if anything doesn’t meet production expectations, they kick it back,” Dominick says. “We hold ourselves to the highest standards.” Each piece comes with a lifetime warranty for manufacturing defects and a one-year warranty for wear and tear, “even if you drop it and step on it,” Dominick quips. Boosting consumer confidence is Jack’s ingenious notion of engraving a unique serial number onto every item of Gabriel & Co. jewelry, whether it’s a $250 locket or a $15,000 ring. The numbering began as a way to hold the factory’s 400-plus workers accountable for the quality of each piece, but a happy byproduct has been the ability to track and return stolen items. The serial number is also linked to the provenance of the piece’s diamonds, all of which are ethically sourced. Early on, the Gabriels decided not to sell their jewelry directly, preferring to reach consumers through partnerships with independent retailers. When e-commerce began growing, the company embedded a store locator into its website, allowing browsers to find a dealer near them. Local stores carry a selection of items in branded cases; if a particular bracelet offered online is not in stock, Gabriel will ship it directly to the customer and give the profit to the retailer. “We had the strength to merge the internet with brick-andmortar,” says Jack, adding that the same principles apply to bridal jewelry, which now accounts for half of sales. JUNE 2019

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Speaking of bridal, Dominick admits that he found the category boring in the early years of the brothers’ business. He turned his attention to engagement rings as millennial brides became more adventurous in their choice of settings. “Ten years ago, God forbid you had negative space in an engagement ring,” he says in preface to a story about the company’s best-selling model, the Nova. Designed with a diamond-covered split shank cradling a center stone, the ring went viral when previewed on social media, before it was named or priced ($3,100 for the setting only; local dealers provide the center stone). As their bridal business grew, Gabriel & Co. again stepped up to make sales easier for retail partners. For an investment of a few thousand dollars, the company provides 40 sample rings with cubic zirconia center stones to give customers a sense of how the finished product will look. Couples can even select two favorite ring designs on GabrielNY.com and make an appointment with a retailer to preview them free of charge. As they reflect on three decades in business together, Jack and Dominick Gabriel express satisfaction at having remained at the forefront of technology while honoring their father’s values of honesty, quality, and hard work. Elias Gabriel took great pride in his sons’ success and was able to visit their factory in China before his death in 2007. “People have a connection with jewelry that goes up over time,” Dominick says. “The industry establishes value by the metal or the diamond, but we measure value by how much happiness and satisfaction a piece is going to give the wearer.” JCKONLINE.COM

5/9/19 12:24 PM

7INNER OF *#+ *EWELERS #HOICE Ã¿WARDS FOR .INE 9EARS IN A 2OW

4HANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT AND RECOGNITION

6ISITÃ¼USÃ¼ATÃ¼*#+Ã¼,ASÃ¼6EGASÃ¼INÃ¼"OOTHÃ¼" Ã¼ORÃ¼)*/Ã¼0ITTSBURGH For more information on becoming a retail partner, visit belleetoilejewelry.com/pages/retailprogram. We are seeking independent reps in multiple US territories, including the Northwest and TOLA. Contact Bryce at careers@belleetoilejewelry.com.

the look

Q&A

Asks...

FREIDA ROTHMAN

Let the Brooklyn, N.Y.–based designer and JCK exhibitor show you how to stack like a pro GROWING UP, WE learned certain rules about jewelry. Silver goes with silver, gold goes with gold, and never the twain shall meet. Fortunately, since then, we’ve learned that mixing metals isn’t verboten. But if you’re still unsure, let Freida Rothman convince you. No designer blends gold, silver, and, most strikingly, blackened silver (often in the same piece!) with such ease. Her metal-heavy designs—often dotted with CZ, to add just the right amount of sparkle—are all inspired by her hometown. In her fall 2019 Industrial Finish collection, “I was really inspired by street art and architecture, as well as the people of Brooklyn,” she explains. “Each style embodies the strength of the city and the beauty and passion of its people.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: A lady never tells…. Number of years in the biz: I’ve been part of the jewelry business since birth! I’m a second-generation jeweler and learned the craft and business from my father. I started my own brand 10 years ago. Number of employees you oversee: We have 20 #DreamTeam employees in our Brooklyn studio. Family and pets: Four children, three fish, one husband. Describe your personal style: Classic with a twist. JUNE 2019

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Industrial Finish caged motherof-pearl pendant necklace

Industrial Finish green agate gradient drop earrings

First piece you ever designed: My first collection was the Love Knot collection, which caught the eye of Nordstrom. Jewelry you’re most proud of: I am very proud of my stacking concept, #StartYourStack. It’s about creating a one-of-a-kind look. Best piece of advice you ever received: “You learn from your mistakes.” Worst piece of advice: “What will people say or think?” I learned…you’re not going to please everyone. How did you get started designing jewelry? I was designing for private label when my husband encouraged me to start my own brand. He said to me, “Why are you designing for others when you can be designing for yourself?” If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? I would have a bigger family. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: You’ll never find me without a bangle or ring stack. Five items on your desk right now: New design sketches, my notebook (which holds my entire life), my FR Lexington handbag, a tray of hoop earrings, and my cellphone. Songs on your playlist: Lady Gaga “Shallow” (on repeat) and the entire A Star Is Born soundtrack. What did you have for breakfast? Coffee and biscotti. Guilty pleasure: See above. Drink (daytime/evening): Red wine. I should start drinking during the day. First website you check every day (not your own!): WWD and reviews on Nordstrom.com. Scent: I’m basically a brand ambassador for Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Everyone always asks me what perfume I’m wearing. How do you unwind? Spending time with my family and reading. I love reading. A must-visit spot for anyone in Brooklyn: If you’ve never experienced Brooklyn, I would say visit Dumbo. It’s a great combination of modern and historic without feeling too touristy. Books you’re reading: Bachelor Girl, The Tattooist of Auschwitz. Who would play you in your life story? Reese Witherspoon. She’s a mom who can do it all. She also shares my passion for books and has blond hair!

WITHERSPOON: ELIZABETH GOODENOUGH/EVERETT; WINE: SOLUCIONFOTOGRAFICA/ISTOCK/GETTY

FR Signature bangle stack

JCKONLINE.COM

5/8/19 5:34 PM

THIS IS NOT A BROWN DIAMOND This is a fancy, deep, rich, brown diamond with moderate orange accents. THE AGS LABORATORIES® COLORED DIAMOND DOCUMENT An insanely easy way to talk to your customers about fancy brown diamonds, giving them more options and helping you close more sales. Learn more at www.agslab.com/browndiamonds or visit us at JCK Las Vegas booth L201.

8917 W. Sahara Avenue Las Vegas, NV 89117 • Phone: 702.233.6120 • Fax: 702.233.6125 • Email: support@agslab.com

STYLIST: SORAYA DAYANI/ART DEPARTMENT; HAIR: MOIZ ALLADINA USING R+CO/THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP: HECTOR ÂSIMANCAS USING CHANEL/ART DEPARTMENT; MANICURIST: ROSEANN SINGLETON/ART DEPARTMENT; MODEL: LAUREN LAYNE/ THE LIONS NY; STYLIST ASSISTANT: DANIEL ALVERO; CLOTHING: JIL SANDER, VINTAGE DENIM JEANS

Cognac collection necklace in 18k white gold with 27.16 cts. t.w. diamonds, $110,000, Andreoli, 212-582-2050, andreoliusa.com; Bar Dangle earrings with 5.36 cts. t.w. fancy intense yellow diamonds and 4.1 cts. t.w. white diamonds in platinum and 18k yellow gold, $175,000, Rahaminov Diamonds, 213-622-9866, rahaminov.com; 18k white gold earrings with 4.19 cts. t.w. diamonds, $26,000, Norman Silverman, 213-687-3985, normansilverman. com; 18k white gold bracelet with 39.75 cts. t.w. diamonds, $66,000, Vivaan, 212-302-0402, vivaan.us

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FEATURES Photograph by Diego Uchitel

5/9/19 6:12 PM

FLIGHTS OF FANCY

S TA C K S O F S H OW S TO P P I N G R I N G S , P I L E S O F T E N N I S B R A C E L E T S , 1 0 0 - C A R AT - P L U S E N S E M B L E S : THE SKY’S THE LIMIT WITH THESE DIAMONDS

Photography by Diego Uchitel Stylist Soraya Dayani Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi

Earrings with 46.38 cts. t.w. Asscher-cut Forevermark diamonds in platinum, price on request, Rahaminov Diamonds for Forevermark Diamonds, 213-6229866, rahaminov.com; 18k white gold ring with 2.42 cts. t.w. diamonds, $17,618, Effy, 877-275-3339, effyjewelry.com

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18k white gold earrings with 6.69 cts. t.w. diamonds, $80,000, Norman Silverman, 213-687-3985, normansilverman. com; Full PavĂŠ Jumbo Link necklace in 18k white gold with 28 cts. t.w. diamonds, $24,150, Dot Dash necklace in 18k yellow gold with 5.67 cts. t.w. diamonds, $20,580, Shay Fine Jewelry, info@ shayfinejewelry.com, shayfinejewelry.com; oval engagement ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.17 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,430 (without center stone), Sylvie Collection, 800-992-3426, sylviecollection.com

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Yaelita collection 18k white gold earrings with 2.35 cts. t.w. diamonds, $11,838, Yael Designs, 415-9899235, yaeldesigns. com; Opera necklace in 18k white gold with 16.67 cts. t.w. diamonds, $84,000, Dilamani, 516466-6767, dilamani. com; 18k white and yellow gold ring with 1.21 cts. t.w. diamonds, $8,550, Effy, 877-275-3339, effyjewelry.com; Wide Band Lusso ring in 14k white gold with 0.99 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,950, Gabriel & Co., 212-519-1400, gabrielny.com; Floral dome ring in 18k white gold with 1.44 cts. t.w. diamonds, $7,300, Jyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International Inc., 415-621-8880, jyescorp.com

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Marquise-shape eternal hoop earrings in 14k rose gold with 0.75 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,880, diamond pavĂŠ clover earrings in 14k yellow gold with 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds, $990, Shy Creation, info@shycreation. com, shycreation. com; Spinning Starburst ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.29 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,490, Artistry Ltd., 888-674-3250, artistrylimited.com; pavĂŠ Baguette Cluster hand chain with 8.98 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k rose gold, $24,150, Shay Fine Jewelry, info@ shayfinejewelry.com, shayfinejewelry.com

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Chandelier earrings with 3.21 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $30,000, VTse, 626-5779288, vtsejewelry. com; Double Halo necklace with 8.71 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum, $214,000, Uneek Jewelry, 213-622-5119, uneekjewelry.com; 18k white gold bangle with 11.05 cts. t.w. diamonds, $59,000, VTse; 14k white gold bangle with 1.35 cts. t.w. diamonds, $10,048, Le Vian, 516-4667200, levian.com; Karisma 18k white gold ring with 2.15 cts. t.w. diamonds, $7,490, Vivaan, 212302-0402, vivaan. us; Blue Bow brooch with 1.21 ct. intense blue diamond and 7.08 cts. t.w. white diamonds in platinum and 18k white gold, $1,900,000, Scott West for L.J. West Diamonds, 212997-0940, scottwest diamonds.com

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Earrings with 1.77 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white and yellow gold, $9,730, Jyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International, 415621-8880, jyescorp. com; Deja Vu leaf pendant with 6.15 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $30,000, Michael John Jewelry, 949-387-6777, michaeljohnjewelry. com; Natural collection platinum and yellow gold ring with 13.72 ct. fancy yellow center stone and 0.86 ct. t.w. sides, $905,700, Uneek Jewelry, 213-622-5119, uneekjewelry.com; ring with 8.45 ct. Moval Forevermark diamond, 1.56 cts. t.w. baguette diamonds, and 0.31 ct. t.w. melee in platinum, price on request, Rahaminov Diamonds for Forevermark Diamonds, 213-622-9866, rahaminov.com

(P. 99) DRESS: NINA RICCI; (P. 100) TOP: ROCHAS; (P. 101) TRENCH: WANDA NYLON; (P. 102) LACE BODYSUIT: PHILOSOPHY BY LORENZO SERAFINI; (P. 103) SUIT: TAMUNA INGOROKVA; (P. 104) DRESS: CHRISTOPHER KANE; (P. 105) TANK: PHILOSOPHY BY LORENZO SERAFINI

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Chandelier collection earrings with 6.51 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $34,000, Andreoli, 212-582-2050, andreoliusa.com; Infinity choker necklace with 11 cts. t.w. diamonds set in 18k white gold, $146,000, Uneek Jewelry, 213-6225119, uneekjewelry. com; 14k white gold bracelet with 5.53 cts. t.w. diamonds, $21,555, 18k white gold bracelet with 4.58 cts. t.w. diamonds, $42,368, Effy, 877-275-3339, effyjewelry.com; 14k white gold ring with 0.18 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,180, Coast Diamond, 800-523-5937, coastdiamond.com; Dahlia collection ring with diamonds and sapphires in 14k white gold, $810 (without center stone), Kirk Kara, 800-874-0181, kirkkara.com; 18k white gold ring with 0.4 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,050, Parade Design, 213-627-4019, paradedesign.com

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106 Dune Diamond band with 0.12 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $1,150; Lark & Berry; hello@larkand berry.com; larkandberry.com

HOW GREEN IS YOUR DIAMOND?

A R E L A B - G ROW N D I A M O N D S T R U LY M O R E E N V I RO N M E N TA L LY F R I E N D LY T H A N T H E I R M I N E D COUNTERPARTS, AS ADHERENTS CL AIM?

by Rob Bates

HE FEDER A L T R A DE Com mission’s guides to eco-marketing have always been clear: General ben efit claims, like eco-friendly, should not be used. Yet, for years, lab-grown diamond companies have used that claim, and many others, to show the greater “eth ics” of their product. And, with con cern about climate change increasing, that positioning could prove potent.

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In March, the FTC put a stop to such claims. It sent warning letters to eight companies that sell lab-grown diamonds and diamond simulants, warning them not to call their products eco-friendly or sustainable. “General environmental b enefit claims are susceptible to all sorts of interpretations,” says FTC attorney Robert Frisby. “It is rare that a product can have an environmental benefit in all the ways that consumers might take away from a general claim.” Instead, marketers need to spell out

Tennis bracelet with 5 cts. t.w. lab-created diamonds in 18k white gold; $8,770; ALTR; 646-847-2323; altr.nyc

a product’s environmental benefits. “If something is recyclable or has re cycled content, those are specific claims,” Frisby says. “People would u nderstand what you’re getting at. A general claim that a product is eco-friendly could mean many different things.” While no environmental group has endorsed lab-grown diamonds, their eco-friendly positioning has attracted socially conscious celebrities—includ ing Leonardo DiCaprio, Nikki Reed, and Meghan Markle (the first two have financial stakes in lab-grown businesses). Behind the scenes, some in the business fervently believe their product is better for the environment. Others shrug and call it good marketing. The claims can get overheated at times. Classic Grown Diamonds says its “lab-made diamonds don’t harm the environment at all as they’re manmade.” (Plastic is also man-made.) Even some growers disassociate themselves from this kind of rhetoric. “I say, Come on, guys,” says veteran grower Tom Chatham. “We all use energy.” The ecological claims have two main bases: less energy usage and less

environmental damage caused by mining. Growing a diamond is a power- intensive exercise involving machines that typically run all day and night. De Beers’ lab-grown brand, Lightbox, is so dependent on always-on power, it’s located next to a power station. JCK has received a wide range of numbers for how much energy it takes to produce a 1 ct. lab-grown diamond, from 20 kilowatt-hours (kWh)—for Gemesis’ colored diamond production—to 750 kWh and higher. Saleem Ali, a professor of energy and the environment at the University of Delaware who is the only academic to have studied this question, feels more data is needed to truly assess lab-grown diamonds’ eco-impact. He notes that growers use metals in their production, which should be factored in. Industry veterans also say the low numbers don’t take into account rejects or the heat treatments many stones undergo post-growth. Plus, lab-grown diamond rings are frequently mounted in gold, another mined product, and use natural diamonds as side stones, even if that’s not always talked about. In addition, many countries that pro duce lots of lab-grown diamonds—like China, India, and Singapore—don’t have access to sufficient renewable energy.

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Pierced earrings with 1 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 10k white gold; $1,000; Lightbox; 866-657-7622; lightboxjewelry.com

Bubbly Drop necklace with 0.47 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 10k white gold; $699; Smiling Rocks; 646452-7046; smilingrocks.com

Only Diamond Foundry claims it’s certified carbon-neutral, using offsets. Diamond miners also show a wide range of data. When artisanal workers dig up diamonds with shovels, they use little energy, even if they sometimes damage the landscape in other ways. Ali’s research found that Australia’s Argyle mine uses 7 kWh per carat, Diavik in Canada uses 66 kWh, and De Beers’ operations use 80.3 kWh. Last year, the Diamond Producers Association (DPA), which represents most of the world’s major miners, hired Trucost, an S&P Global company, to audit its members. Trucost calculated that carbon emissions associated with 1 polished carat are six times less than those of a passenger on a one-way flight from Los Angeles to New York. While the mining numbers gener ally compare favorably with those for lab-growns, Ali finds some of them suspect. “A lot of these diamond mines have boutique projects. They will have a windmill, and it does nice stuff. But what about the diesel trucks and the airplanes flying to Yellowknife [where Diavik is headquartered]?” Some also think kWh-per-carat may

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not be the best way to measure this, which points to the fact that not all carats are alike. To get a whiter stone, growers need more time and energy. With miners, finding a better-quality rock doesn’t require more output. Mining also involves digging up land, which can affect nearby lakes and wild life. While the footprint of diamond excavation is considered less than that of gold, there have been instances of pollution and contamination of nearby lakes. Producers say that impact can be mitigated and eventually remediated. The DPA argues that mining compa nies compensate for their eco-footprint by sponsoring bio-habitat programs. Regardless, Ali concludes, on the environmental side, “there is no ques tion synthetic diamonds will be less impactful than mined diamonds. “But on the social side, the situation is more complex,” he adds. “If managed well, mined diamonds can lead to more employment opportunities. If not man aged well, they can lead to human rights abuses. But synthetics aren’t going to create a lot of jobs.”

The diamond industry employs some 10 million people in some of the poorest areas of the world, notes Dorothée Gizenga, executive director of the Diamond Development Initiative. “Artisanal diamond mining is the live lihood of millions of people,” she says. “They have an average of 10 depen dents, including children.” Ali says he’s “willing to sacrifice some environmental impact to improve liveli hoods.” There are exceptions, like tiger poaching. But “we need to figure out how human development needs can balance with environmental needs.” When told his stance seems unusual for an environmental studies professor, Ali is thoughtful. “We cannot solve en vironmental problems without looking at the human dimension,” he says. He has noted that before Botswana became a major diamond producer, its main industry was cattle ranching, which was less lucrative and also bad for the environment. In the end, it’s hard to say what kind of diamond production is always more eco-friendly or ethical than any other. Both growing and mining have shown a broad spectrum of effects. Which brings us back to eco-friendly. Most lab-grown diamond websites have eco-impact pages. But they rarely

detail the impact of their diamonds; they mostly chronicle the downside of mining. Even if one grants that labgrown diamonds are, as a category, eco-friendlier than mined, some are produced with large amounts of non renewable energy. It’s hard to call them eco-friendly in any sense, never mind under the FTC’s expansive definitions. To really make an informed buying decision, a consumer must know the precise impact of each product. So far, neither the mined nor lab-grown sector provides that. Plus, if one judges solely on eco-impact, the best option may be neither mined nor lab-grown dia monds, but repurposed gems. “The really sustainable thing is to recycle diamonds from old jewelry,” says Estelle Levin-Nally, the founder of Levin Sources, a consulting firm focused on responsible mining. “That’s the future in a world where energy is too precious to be used on luxury items.” In other words, buying lab-grown diamonds might save you money. But it won’t save the world.

5/8/19 5:39 PM

THE CO LO R R E P O RT BOLD, STRONG & VISCERAL ARE THE WAYS PANTONE DESCRIBES ITS AUTUMNWINTER 2019â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2020 PALETTE. WE PICKED 12 JEWELS TO MATCH THE POWERFUL HUES. by Melissa Rose Bernardo

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Necklace with 254.88 cts. t.w. emerald beads, 2.93 cts. t.w. diamonds, and antique Tibetan silver gau (prayer box); price on request; Pamela Huizenga; 772-871-0033; pamelahuizenga.com

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PANTONEÂ® 19-6050 TCX Eden

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110 Pink opal inlay Star ring with ruby, sapphire, and emerald insets in 18k yellow gold; $4,650; Brent Neale; 646-745-6831; brentneale.com

PANTONE®

IBUSCA/DIGITALVISION VECTORS/GETTY

12-1110 TCX Crème de Pêche

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PANTONE® 19-4055 TCX Galaxy Blue

Ring in 18k yellow gold with tanzanite and blue sapphires; $16,000; Daniela Villegas; shafira@ danielavillegas.com; danielavillegas.com

IBUSCA/DIGITALVISION VECTORS/GETTY

Earrings with cloisonné enamel and amethysts in 14k vermeil; €580 ($645); Percossi Papi; percossipapi@ percossipapi.com; percossipapi.com

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PANTONE® 18-4217 TCX Bluestone

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112 18k yellow gold earrings with sapphires, glassfilled rubies, and real orchids; $2,750; Bahina; 41-31-3680775; bahina.com

PANTONE® 19-1557 TCX Chili Pepper

PANTONE®

Ski Slope ring in rosewood and polished 18k gold; $6,800; David Webb; 212-421-3030; davidwebb.com

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19-1234 TCX Rocky Road

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PANTONE® 17-1926 TCX Fruit Dove

Hand-carved 57.55 cts. t.w. watermelon tourmaline butterfly with 10.22 ct. marquise rubellite and 9 cts. t.w. diamonds in 20k gold; price on request; Buddha Mama; 305-439-2059; buddhamama.com

One-of-a-kind moonstone, garnet, and diamond earrings; price on request; Vram; 310-859-9545; vramjewelry.com

PANTONE®

NASTASIC/DIGITALVISION VECTORS/GETTY

15-1530 TCX Peach Pink

Cabochon bracelet with 102 cts. t.w. garnets in 22k gold; $19,800; Prounis; studio@ prounisjewelry.com; prounisjewelry.com

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PANTONE® 19-1650 TCX Biking Red

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Be the Light necklace with Australian and fire opal, spessartite, and diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $6,000; Eden Presley; sales@ edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com

PANTONE® 16-1358 TCX Orange Tiger

PANTONE® 18-1155 TCX Sugar Almond

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Gold loop earrings with moss agate drops and moonstone knot in 18k yellow gold; $9,000; Guita M; 866-301-6873; musexmuse.com

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15-1150 TCX Dark Cheddar

Classic Arabesque ring with 8.25 ct. spessartite garnet and 1 ct. t.w. blue sapphires in 18k yellow gold; $6,500; Temple St. Clair; 212-219-8664; templestclair.com

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at Christmas. The line of credit is required to be cleared up once a year. But some he cost of cash is up, and jewelers need to adjust. The Federal Open Market Committee of the Federal Reserve System jewelers maybe never pay it off or only for 30 days or so. Then it’s just a lot of debt determines monetary policy to regulate the economy by adjusting its rather than actually having a line of credit.” When that threshold is reached, businesses are further burdened by not being able benchmark federal funds rate, which influences interest rates on all types of loans and borrowing for small businesses and consumers, among others. to reorder fast sellers. “Aged inventory is very hard on the bottom line,” Hayes says. And while the Fed has decided to “adopt patience” toward further rate “If you aren’t turning it, that’s going to hurt.” Jewelers need to embrace a strategic approach to incurring debt. “They should increases through the remainder of the year, it has lifted them by a quarter percent nine times in its current adjustment cycle, effectively raising the consider converting revolving debt to fixed-term, say a five-year term loan, so they can use debt intelligently rather than suffer ongoing, increasing cost of servicing the fed funds rate from 0 to 2.5 percent. For jewelers who haven’t been vigilant, that’s bleeding the bottom line outstanding debt,” Sherman advises. “Then they can use debt when it makes sense, to drive growth, like bringing on a new line or opening a new location.” throughout operations, from sourcing to selling. “People may think, ‘It’s only a couple percent,’ but interest rates have impact across everything we do,” says Abe Sherman, CEO of Buyers Intelligence Group, a SUPPRESSING CONSUMER DEMAND Napa, Calif.–based jewelry consultant. “In an industry where net operating income Rising interest rates are also likely to slow consumer demand, hitting discretionary is low, each tick interest rates go up erodes profit. If borrowing costs you a couple spending with the double whammy of a heightened incentive to save in tandem extra points, it can erase 10 percent of the bottom line.” with increased costs for making credit purchases. Jewelers obtain financing from their lenders in the form of either revolving lines “As interest rates go up, the cost of living goes up,” Hayes explains. “It costs of credit or term loans, both of which are frequently based on the prime rate, nor- more for people to get loans for homes and cars. That reduces their spendable mally set 3 percent above the fed funds rate. So while an individual jeweler’s interest income. And when they see an opportunity to make a little bit by not spending, rate depends upon the company’s they’re going to be more likely to strength, the cost of borrowing is start saving again, and that will rising across the board. slow things down further.” “We have a revolving account Stone predicts the impact will be with a fluctuating rate,” explains felt mainly in the middle-income John Hayes, owner of Goodman’s sector. “The affluent customer Jewelers in Madison, Wis. “In the is resilient. They’re still spending T O M A X I M I Z E P R O F I T, M I N I M I Z E D E B T, A N D A V O I D past two years, we’ve only used the money,” he says. “But we’ll probFINANCING WOES, JEWELERS MUST ADAPT TO RISING line twice, and there was a noticeably see mainstream client traffic I N T E R E S T R AT E S . H E R E ’ S H OW T H E I N D U S T RY ’ S TO P F I N A N C E able difference.” and sales decline just as we did W O N K S S E E T H E C U R R E N T B O R ROW I N G C L I M AT E . Term loans can come with fixed with the [2008] downturn.” or variable rates and vary in the life To counter these factors and of the loan from mid- to longergenerate sales, Rickert urges By Whitney Sielaff term. But they’re rising too. jewelers to embrace subsidized Illustration by Michele Marconi “An even bigger hit can come consumer financing programs from a long-term perspective, the three- to 10-year note people would take out such as the one the American Gem Society offers through Wells Fargo Bank, for moving to a new location, doing a renovation of their store, making a capital which extends approved customers 0 percent financing for up to a year if they investment, or adding a substantial new line,” says Larry Rickert, president of Jim make their monthly payments, or 9.99 percent for a five-year payoff. Kryshak Jewelers in Wausau, Wis. “Servicing that debt can easily become a larger According to Rickert, there are two kinds of customers: “those who have money dollar amount over a longer period of time.” in their bank accounts but like using other people’s money if they can get the 0 And rates are likely to go even higher. percent, and the first-time engagement customers who are making a substantial “We’re still at historically low levels,” says Michael Pollak, founder and CEO of purchase but don’t want to pay regular credit card rates. This way it’s more like seven-location Hyde Park Jewelers, headquartered in Denver. “They could easily purchasing a vehicle.” bump up even another 100 basis points over the next year or two.”

UNEASY MONEY

THE INVENTORY ALBATROSS Among the biggest potential pitfalls for jewelers in this new higher-rate environment is overleveraging owned inventory as collateral to secure asset-based financing. “The cost of money has an incredible impact on the carrying cost for inventory,” says David Stone, co-owner of Nancy and David Fine Jewels in Millburn, N.J. “We’ve gotten to where I don’t want to carry the debt. What we buy we pay for.” Explains Sherman: “When interest rates were as low as they were, people used that opportunity for growth. They would go to the bank, show a lot of assets, and the bank would ask for too much collateral. All of a sudden, they’re over-inventoried. Now that interest rates are going up, the short-term debt is getting more expensive. So the excess inventory is costing. “The larger issue is why they’re taking on debt in the first place,” he continues. “They could just borrow the money because it was cheap. Too often they’re using it just to keep up with bills. But then their credit is either tapped out or they max out

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PROFITING FROM A STRONGER DOLLAR

A silver lining to rising domestic interest rates has been a corresponding run-up averaging about 10 percent in the value of the dollar versus foreign currencies. This presents an opportunity to increase profit on imports. While well-known watch brands and other similarly large offshore suppliers tend to price their products internationally in dollars, smaller manufacturers often sell in local currencies. The more favorable exchange rates are making those products more affordable for jewelers paying in dollars. “The advantage is with smaller boutique manufacturers,” Pollak says. “Ninety percent of the Italians are still selling in euros. We just got back from Vicenza, which is reestablishing itself as an important show. We definitely did some new sourcing.” The United Kingdom has been especially attractive for U.S. buyers, as the pound has undergone downward pressure stemming from Brexit struggles. “We discovered a sterling silver line out of England, and it’s sold exceptionally well. Our turn is tremendous,” Hayes says. “So we doubled down. That puts us in a pretty good spot.”

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M O V I N â&#x20AC;&#x2122; O N U P

FIVE JEWELRY RETAILERS ON THEIR BEST TIPS FOR CHANGING LOCATIONS b y D a n i e l P. S m i t h

Long Sabre with blue sapphire baguettes and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $5,447; Robinson Pelham; gatehouse.emily@ robinsonpelham.com; robinsonpelham.com

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VERY YEAR, OWNERS of jewelry stores around the country endure a daunting task when they pack up and move their wares into a new location. As landlords change, demographics shift, or business priorities evolve, retailers relocate their stores to better position their operations for future success. JCK spoke to five retailers who have recently moved their businesses, exploring the factors that prompted their change of address and soliciting suggestions for how other store owners can put together a successful relocation plan.

DESIGNER’S TOUCH JEWELRY Wellington, Fla.

In March, this third-generation jewelry retailer ditched its longtime Wellington home, where neighbors had transitioned over the years from vibrant restaurants and salons to utilitarian medical offices. Relocating a few miles down the road, Designer’s Touch took up residence in a newly constructed shopping plaza anchored by a Trader Joe’s and drive-thru Starbucks. The move also allowed Designer’s Touch to create a more contemporary interior, including a cozy customer lounge area. The motivating factor: location, location, location, according to co-owner Adam Yorke. “One of the big things in my mind was making sure the location was an active one with shops that related to the quality of our shop. We weren’t interested in running to just any new place because it might have been larger or offered a better rent.” A moving tip: Plan ahead. From interior paint colors and setting up utilities to installing security and communicating the move to customers, Yorke says an assortment of easy-to-overlook details must be addressed and organized before a move. “The more you figure out early, the easier your life will be as the move date comes closer.”

GEM JEWELRY BOUTIQUE Oak Park, Ill.

In 2015, Gem owner Laura Kitsos moved for a second time in five years, settling into a historic storefront in Oak Park, an artsy suburb on Chicago’s western edge. Kitsos calls her current home— which features custom cases, illumination by a professional lighting designer, and windows featuring the Gem name in 24k gold gilt—a more intimate environment that jibes well with the indie boutiques lining local streets. The motivating factor: “The prior space was beautiful, but way too large for us,” Kitsos says, admitting that she hurried into her first Oak Park space after getting pushed out of Gem’s former location in Chicago’s Bucktown neighborhood. A moving tip: Don’t fear the unknown. “[Moving] shakes things up and gives you the chance to do something new and different than before,” Kitsos says. “You create excitement and will always find new customers when you move a shop or change the dynamics of your current shop.”

EPHRAIM DOUMATO JEWELERS Greenville, R.I.

Last November, Ephraim Doumato Jewelers traded its 1,500-squarefoot home of nearly 40 years for a 4,000-square-foot space located a half-mile away. Once a popular Chinese restaurant, the retailer’s

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119 new store features added parking, a wider selection of inventory, a customer lounge with televisions, a “diamond bar” where clients can shop for engagement rings or remounts while enjoying a complimentary drink from the full-service bar, and a diamond-viewing room for buyers seeking privacy. The motivating factor: “The opportunity to grow our business in a larger, more visible location that we owned was our goal for a long time,” says Matt Doumato, whose father, Ephraim, founded the business in 1980. A moving tip: Don’t settle. “Because this is a huge undertaking, make sure there are significant benefits to the new location over the old, such as space potential, greater visibility, or filling a void in the market,” Doumato says. He also urges retailers to hold a moving sale, which can inject capital into the business and create awareness for its move, something Doumato Jewelers cleverly did by distributing fortune cookies noting the retail store’s new address.

LAWRENCE JEWELERS Fort Gratiot Township, Mich.

After inhabiting a 1,500-square-foot space in Fort Gratiot’s Birchwood Mall for the last 22 years, Lawrence Jewelers settled into its new freestanding building in March. Located about a quarter-mile away from its mall location, one that had seen key anchor tenants vanish in recent years, the 44-year-old retailer’s new 6,000-squarefoot home includes new brands and more contemporary inventory, two waterfall features, a luxurious customer lounge, a full refreshment bar, a private diamond-viewing area, and a custom CAD area. The motivating factor: Declining mall traffic, hefty real estate costs, and the opportunity to be in a high-traffic area were all considerations. “We did it for the convenience of our guests and to be constantly visible to passersby,” co-owner Jon Askew says. A moving tip: Leverage credible help. “We did a retirement sale during the relocation and hired an outside company to help bring in additional merchandise and take care of the marketing focus,” Askew says. Assigning one staff member to oversee the move, including planning for delays and creating contingency plans, also helped ease the store’s relocation effort.

LORI M c LEAN FINE JEWELRY New York City

Designer Lori McLean moved her namesake jewelry store from Manhattan’s West Village to the adjacent East Village neighborhood in 2014, settling into a cozy, more cost-effective space rich in natural light, storage space, and elbow room that has allowed McLean to better craft and showcase her own jewelry line and custom work. The motivating factor: Simply put, McLean’s 10-year lease e nded, and the West Village’s soaring rents rose far beyond her comfort level. Though initially bummed to leave her home of a decade, a classic New York building with tall, tin ceilings and a stately wooden door, McLean now considers her shift 1 mile to the east “a great change” for her now–15-year-old retail business. A moving tip: Maintain perspective and control what you can. “I used to really worry about what would happen when my lease ended, and then it did and almost everything improved. Now I try not to worry about how little control I have over the big sweeping changes,” says McLean, acknowledging that she may be on the move again next year when her current lease expires. “Who knows?”

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SALESPERSON O U R R E P O RT E R S P E N T A S AT U R D AY I N A P R I L S H A D OW I N G T H E P RO S AT I . G O R M A N J E W E L E R S I N WA S H I N G T O N , D . C . H E R E ’ S W H AT S H E L E A R N E D A B O U T L U X U RY R E TA I L I N G I N T H E AGE OF SMARTPHONES AND SOCIAL MEDIA.

FOR A DAY Photography by Jared Soares

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Co-owner Nicole GormanShrum arranges Mattia Cielo diamond bracelets.

HATEVER I GET, it needs to be something I can wear to the gym,” says a woman dressed in upscale yoga wear as she tries an eternity band set with truly gargantuan baguette-cut diamonds on for size. Standing a few feet away is Adam Gorman, co-owner of fine jewelry store I. Gorman in Washington, D.C. “I get it,” he says, smiling and giving his client, who happens to be a cast member of the Bravo TV series The Real Housewives of Potomac, plenty of space to contemplate whether the gleaming ring is gym-ready. The pair have been moving around the store—the client trying on styles while they catch up on their respective kids and family lives—for almost two hours. She has a multi-carat solitaire engagement ring, but is looking for something less blingy to wear every day. She and Adam end up taking a snapshot of the ring on her finger, which the retailer will send to her husband with a nice note later (her idea). It’s a Saturday morning in April and I’m trailing behind them, observing the transaction (which could hardly feel less transactional) from a few feet away. Adam and his sister,

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122 Necklaces hang on a custom-created wall where shoppers can touch, feel, and try on styles.

co-owner Nicole Gorman-Shrum, have graciously allowed me to hang out in their store, one of the city’s most enduring and well-respected fine jewelry boutiques. A week before, I’d pitched them the idea: I’m a longtime retail reporter and editor (before joining the staff of JCK seven years ago, I wrote for the Los Angeles Times and WWD), and even though my real-life retail experience doesn’t extend beyond a part-time music store job in high school, would it be possible for me to linger in your store one day soon? Incredibly, they said yes. The very next Saturday I find myself standing next to Adam—a key to the store’s cases dangling from a bungee cord on my wrist—as the first customers of the day trickle in. The very first, his TV star client, walks in with the siblings’ mother, Bonnie Gorman, who founded the company with her husband, Ivan, in 1981. (Bonnie still works in the store part-time, and Ivan works from home.) I. Gorman’s longtime manager, Jill Alexander, invites the second customer, a young guy wearing a hesitant expression, to sit down at the engagement ring bar, which is stocked with stylish options from Single Stone and Todd Reed, among other brands. He’s hoping to surprise his girlfriend with the ring, but isn’t sure if she wants a three-stone style or a classic solitaire—he’s considering bringing her sister in on the hunt. Jill, who is soft-spoken and infinitely patient, backs that idea heartily: “In the end,” she tells him, “it’s really about the ring she’s been dreaming about, the one in her head that she always sees.” The client is far more jazzed to look at diamonds, and Jill spends quality time teaching him how to use a loupe to identify characteristics and spot inclusions. Roughly 15 minutes into this, the client—loupe still held up to his eye— chuckles and says, “I’m sorry I’m taking so long, this is just completely fascinating to me.” Jill mirrors his excitement by going into further detail on inclusions—how they form and how they affect a diamond’s grade. Pleasant exchanges like these happen all morning—some

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“Retail now is about nurturing relationships— we interact on a personal level with our clients and try to get to know who they really are.” —Adam Gorman

result in sales, others don’t. But watching how relaxed Jill, Adam, and Nicole are with clients, I’m reminded of the adage “Hold on tightly, let go lightly.” When the three jewelry pros are working with a client one-on-one, they’re completely locked into the person they’re helping. And that investment of time is made again and again— regardless of whether the customer is ready to buy. Critically, the hard sell doesn’t exist here. “We do not, under any circumstances, pressure customers,” says Nicole. “I tell all our employees that we’re not that kind of store.” When shoppers are ready to leave, the farewells are short and sweet—the opposite of the clichéd, frenzied “Let me show you one more thing!” retail tactic that puts modern consumers on edge.

Shoppers can relax on counter-high stools without interrupting their jewelry views.

TAKE IT FROM THE PROS… I’ve heard time and again from fine jewelry retailers that “relationships are everything.” But after spending a day in a successful family-owned jewelry store, I only now comprehend how true that is. Fine jewelry is seldom an impulse buy. And it can take several “touches” on the part of a retailer to seal a deal on a higher-end jewel. Jill, for example, spent more than an hour

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I. Gorman coowners/jewelry sales samurai Adam Gorman and Nicole GormanShrum at work

The Wedding Band Bar—stocked with high-end spirits—is an early and popular stop for clients, particularly during in-store bridal events.

Vesilind familiarizes herself with the store’s wide inventory of fashion and bridal jewels.

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looking at rings and diamonds with the young groom-tobe—and though he didn’t buy that day, he left with a plan for how to choose the “perfect” ring. I can’t imagine he won’t be back for round two. But even if he were to ultimately buy a ring somewhere else, or online, his opinion of the store and Jill would still be sterling. In the age of Yelp reviews and armchair social media criticism, favorable opinions are the fuel that feeds word-ofmouth marketing. Without them, a retailer withers. “This business is really about nurturing relationships,” Adam says. “We have to create moments for people when they come in. And when we can build a personal relationship, there’s value there for everyone.”

My experience at I. Gorman, brief as it was, also underscored the importance of smart buying and merchandising. The maze of cases in the shop spotlights an impressively wide selection of jewelry—both on the bridal side and in fine fashion, a category that’s long been one of I. Gorman’s calling cards. The Real Housewife was able to spend so much time at the store because the store stocks an abundance of desirable rings, in varied styles. The baguette-wrapped eternity band she was contemplating sits in a case with a few similarly dazzling bands. “Does anyone actually buy those?” I asked Adam minutes after the store had opened, mesmerized by the display of high caratage. “Not yet,” he said, “but someone will, and we have to have them when they come in.” Less than 15 minutes later, just such a shopper walked through the front door. (The retailers also recently loaded up on stacking rings that feature curves and kinks, because “when women start asking for that trend, and they will soon, we have to have it,” Adam explains.) The importance of keeping cases filled with on-trend, covetable jewelry cannot be overstated—provided the pieces are merchandised in ways that delight a wide range of consumers, from Pinterest-perusing millennials to 60-something self-purchasing women. Without the right merchandise mix, it would be easy to flounder in this business, I think, as Nicole pulls out several innovative and exciting styles for me to play with—Mattia Cielo’s innovative Flex diamond bracelets and a stunning long diamond and pearl necklace from Dana Kellin among them. I. Gorman’s approach to jewelry retailing recognizes that many of today’s consumers no longer rely on their local retailer to introduce them to what’s new. While that shopper certainly still exists, younger shoppers tend to walk into brick-and-mortar stores already knowing what they want, having preshopped online. If you have what they’re after— and are then able to inject fun and friendliness into their buying experience, as I. Gorman does—I can say with confidence that you’re bound for greatness.

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T I M E A F T E R T I M E By Victoria Gomelsky Digital art by Alfredo Ceballos

FROM TWO-TONE METAL MODELS TO BLUE-IN-THEFACE DESIGNS, THESE ARE THE SEASONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOST STYLISH WATCHES

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4 3

V I N TA G E R E V I VA L 1. El Primero A386 Revival in 38 mm 18k rose gold case; $19,600; Zenith; 866-675-2079; zenith-watches.com 2. L.U.C Chrono One Flyback chronograph in 42 mm Titalyt case; $29,100; Chopard; 800-CHOPARD; chopard.com 3. Heritage BiCompax Annual chronograph and annual calendar in 41 mm stainless steel and 18k

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rose gold case; $11,000; Carl F. Bucherer; 800-395-4306; carl-f-bucherer.com

4. Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A in 40 mm steel case; $33,454; Patek Philippe; 212-2181240; patek.com 5. Autavia Isograph in 42 mm steel case; $3,500; TAG Heuer; 973467-1890; tagheuer.com 6. Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Norton Edition in 42 mm steel case; $8,250; Breitling; 877-BREITLING; breitling.com

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TWO-TONE 1. Octo Roma in stainless steel case with 18k rose gold octagon; $7,800; Bulgari; 646-367-7755; bulgari.com

2. Sea-Dweller in 43 mm Oystersteel and yellow gold case; $16,050; Rolex; 800-36-ROLEX; rolex.com 3. Black Bay 32 Steel & Gold in 32 mm steel case with yellow gold bezel; $3,950; Tudor; 212-897-9900; tudorwatch.com

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BRONZE-GREEN 1. 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition in 42 mm bronze case; $6,300; Montblanc; 800-995-4810; montblanc.com 2. Big Pilotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire automatic in 46.2 mm bronze case; $28,200; IWC Schaffhausen; 800-432-9330; iwc.com 3. BR 03-92 Diver Green Bronze in 42 mm bronze case; $3,990; Bell & Ross; 888-307-7887; bellross.com 4. Big Crown Pointer Date 80th-anniversary edition in 40 mm bronze case; $2,000; Oris; 203-857-4769; oris.ch

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RAINBOW 1. Imperiale Joaillerie Rainbow in 36 mm 18k rose gold case with diamonds and multicolored sapphires; $87,400; Chopard; 800-CHOPARD; chopard.com

2. Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph with rainbow sapphire bezel; $71,400; Audemars Piguet; 212-758-8400; audemarspiguet.com 3. MTGB1000RB-2A with rainbowcolored bezel; $1,000; G-Shock; 973-361-5400; gshock.com 4. Big Bang One Click Rainbow in 39 mm 18k King Gold case with colored gemstones; $82,100; Hublot; 800-536-0636; hublot.com

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1 129 BLUE-ON-BLUE 1. Bridges Cosmos in 48 mm titanium case with tourbillon, sky chart, and world time complications; $344,000; Girard-Perregaux; 818378-1450; girard-perregaux.com 2. Patrimony manual-winding hours and minutes in 40 mm 18k pink gold case; $18,600; Vacheron Constantin; 877-701-1755; vacheron-constantin.com 3. Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel in 39 mm 18k white gold case; $55,000; Jaeger-LeCoultre; 877-552-1833; jaeger-lecoultre.com

(FROM FIRST PAGE) DIANA ROBINSON/MOMENT/GETTY; OLGA MATVEEVA/MOMENT/GETTY; JACK LAM/EYE EM/GETTY; MELINDA PODOR/MOMENT/GETTY; TIM TAYLOR/EYE EM/GETTY

4. Classique 7337 in 39 mm 18k white gold case with blue guillochÃ© dial; $41,000; Breguet; 866-4587488; breguet.com

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FIVE WOMEN IN LEADERSHIP POSITIONS IN THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY REFLECT ON THE MANAGEMENT S T R AT E G I E S T H AT H AV E E A R N E D T H E M H I G H M A R K S IN THE TRADE

by Martha C. White

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NADJA SWAROVSKI (L.) Atelier Swarovski Fine Jewelry by Stephen Webster double diamond cocktail ring, $3,990; (r.) Atelier Swarovski Fluid Statement Necklace in light amethyst, $999

Atelier Swarovski Fine Jewelry by Penélope Cruz Lola three-drop earrings; $7,990; atelierswarovski.com

NADJA SWAROVSKI SWAROVSKI A lot of jewelry businesses are family businesses, but most of them aren’t like the $4 billion Austrian crystal juggernaut founded by Nadja Swarovski’s great-great-grandfather in 1895. Swarovski has overseen the brand since 1995 as a member of its executive board and creative director of Atelier Swarovski. During her tenure, she has partnered with fashion designers such as Prabal Gurung and celebrities including Penélope Cruz. 1. How do you honor a brand’s roots and keep up with trends at the same time? It’s amazing to see how the fashion-jewelry industry has truly evolved over the last 20 years, and I hope we’ve had a positive contribution. We took a big effort to get away from the term costume jewelry and called it fashion jewelry because it’s an extension of what we see in the fashion industry—empowerment in embellishment and adornment, and symbolism of what that jewelry means for you. And that’s where the trends come in. We feel it’s so important to work with emerging talent. They

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are right in the middle of the trends, and that’s our way to tap into those trends. 2. How has the conversation around alternatives to mined gemstones shifted since you joined the company, and what role does Swarovski play in that? I hope Swarovski’s contribution will be a conscious increase of sustainability across the board. Our c rystal is sustainable. We’re certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council, and we have a strong CSR [corporate social responsibility] department. As a company and as a brand, I think that element helps instill trust within our colleagues and our customers. 3. What lessons did you take away from the Great Recession? It’s interesting—in terms of jewelry retail, we sometimes see an increase there. Because of people buying less fine jewelry, they might be adorning themselves with crystal jewelry. I think there’s still that need for adornment. Within organizations, I find that resourcefulness is a tremendous element for problem solving and still delivering the product to consumers without compromising quality or aesthetics. It’s a time of reflection.

4. Is there anyone in the jewelry industry you look up to or who has taught you something valuable? We have such a wonderful opportunity to work with amazing people. We certainly appreciate people who think out of the box, who have a clear understanding of who our customer is. A great collaborator has always been Stephen Webster [who designed the Atelier Swarovski Double Diamond collection featuring recycled 14k gold and Swarovski lab-created diamonds]. You truly feel his spirit in the work he does. He’s very liberated and very expressive. It’s joyful. We’re in the business of sparkle. As long as the end consumer wants that sparkle, we’re here to promote our peers and colleagues. 5. What did you learn from studying gemology at GIA? Each diamond—you think you’re looking at a straightforward stone and you realize there’s this whole landscape inside, just like you have individual fingerprints. When you realize that, you appreciate each stone so much more. It made me realize that the more I knew about the subject matter, the more I could appreciate the process, and the more the customer knows about the process, the more they’ll appreciate the outcomes.

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Continuance Pavé, Renaissance, Helena Center Station, Tides Three-Station, and Buckle bracelets, all in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $2,500–$7,800

(L.) Helena Dome ring in 18k gold with diamonds, $5,600; (r.) 18k gold Novella rings with madeira citrine and rubellite, iolite and green tourmaline, blue topaz and diamonds, and green and pink tourmaline, $3,400–$7,800; davidyurman.com

SYBIL YURMAN DAVID YURMAN ENTERPRISES David and Sybil Yurman are one of the jewelry industry’s most recognizable power couples. When painter Sybil founded New York City–based David Yurman with her sculptor husband, David, in 1980, they introduced the radical idea of having artisan metalsmiths craft in silver rather than gold—a watershed moment for the democratization of fine jewelry. Their collections’ distinctive designs—and the iconic cable bracelet style—have remained consistent even as the brand has grown. Sybil Yurman serves as chief brand officer for the company, which currently has 33 David Yurman stores in the United States and 11 internationally. 1. How do you think your employees would describe your style of leadership? I try to be inspirational and to base everything on a position of collaboration and being open to ideas and to have people be fearless in their opinions so we can share. The key word is curiosity. I try to encourage people to be curious and to find the answers in an open and fearless dialogue.

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2. How do you think being a woman leading a company in a male-dominated industry factors into your leadership style? I think it definitely helped. There was a lot more based on intuition, and there wasn’t a sense of competition with me and staff—it was more a collaborative effort of people working together, sharing ideas, and me being able to hear what they were saying and take the best and leave the rest. I didn’t feel a sense of competition or challenge. It wasn’t a sports game with a sense of winning or losing. Being a woman and being at the head of a creative company has given me a great sense of satisfaction in that we have 73 percent women running this company on a [vice president and higher] leadership level. 3. Which advertisement or campaign that you’ve run has gotten the most response, and why do you think it was so powerful? Our first campaign [in 2000–2001] was groundbreaking. There was nothing like it. It was lifestyle, which was about showing how we lived and who we were, with people doing real things. People were sitting at a table and there was a bottle of Champagne, we were dancing. If there was a feeling of a party, it’s because

SYBIL YURMAN

it was a party. We had a great deal of fun, and people responded to the surprise and the accessibility of it. 4. You and David have said that the brand was started on a shoestring. How do you position a business for growth while keeping the integrity of your aesthetic? Whatever we made, we had to be able to sell so we could make more. So we had to stay true and focused with what we believed was our vision. If you’re staying true to a very particular creative vision, it doesn’t really go out of style. By doing that, we show what our values are and our values tend to resonate. It has a consistency. We don’t chase trends. 5. Although you sell online, how do you view the role of the in-store experience? We believe in brick-and-mortar, and we believe it’s very important. People want to feel and touch jewelry. They want the romance of it, the physical experience. With both of us being artists and showing in galleries, we brought that same way of presenting ourselves in jewelry stores, which was to show by collection. It had to be shown by collection to show you that it had a power to it and an energy to it.

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(Above) Rose-cut rings with 0.47–1.24 cts. t.w. colorless moissanite in 14k rose gold, $679–$1,249; (r.) Elongated Oval Halo rings with 2.62– 4.75 cts. t.w. colorless moissanite in 14k rose, yellow, and white gold, $2,949– $4,699; charles andcolvard.com

SUZANNE MIGLUCCI CHARLES & COLVARD Suzanne Miglucci became president and CEO of Charles & Colvard in December 2015—and immediately began shaking things up. The Morrisville, N.C.– based company manufactures moissanite, a lab-created diamond simulant. In October 2016, Miglucci oversaw a major expansion in the company’s focus, creating the consumer-facing Forever One brand and marketing this brand-name moissanite as an affordable, eco-friendly alternative to diamonds. 1. How do you think your employees would describe your style of management? My management style is ultimately to get out of the way. And if I have really strong people around me that I can rely on, giving them the direction and then getting out of the way is the best way I can manage. 2. What’s the most surprising thing you look for when you hire someone? One of the things I look at is the way the candidate manages their personal brand, because it’s probably going to be reflective of the way they’ll represent the

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SUZANNE MIGLUCCI

Charles & Colvard brand. To me, that personal brand element is reflective of how you’re going to eventually be as a staff member. Having someone walk into an interview that has really well thought-out questions— that’s someone who’s done their homework and knows they want to be part of that company. I’m famous, or maybe infamous, for having locked a candidate out because they came with nothing in hand—no pen, no printed résumé, just a person in a suit. I knew immediately they weren’t a candidate. I thanked them for their time but I said, “Given your level of preparedness, I don’t know if you’re a good fit.” 3. What’s the biggest professional risk you’ve ever taken and how did it turn out? When I came in three years ago, we were very much a traditional manufacturing company. We manufactured lab-created gemstones and relied on our distribution partners to bring our brand out to the market. Charles & Colvard didn’t have a recognized brand in the industry, but I saw the opportunity. We felt like unless we were going to own our brand and speak directly to the consumer, she was never going to learn what moissanite is. In order to create this direct-to-consumer touch, we really had to become a jewelry company and

create a true jewelry brand. It was risky because we were working in a very traditional industry. We had the possibility of upsetting our distribution partners. 4. What do you consider the role of e-commerce in jewelry sales? I come from e-commerce so I’m a little biased, but I think it’s the future of all retail. Certainly, there’s the in-store experience that’s going to be a part of shopping, but it’s the presence online, on social—all that comes together to create this omnichannel experience. Consumers often showroom, so online presence is critically important. Right now we’re trying to bridge that gap. I think AR [augmented reality] and VR [virtual reality] are going to evolve to the point that you’re almost having that experience that makes it feel so real, you have a level of comfort buying those goods without seeing them on your hand. 5. Is there a company that inspires you or that you really admire? If there’s a brand that’s doing an amazing job, it’s Etsy. They’ve done such a great job building a community of consumers. Watching how brands handle themselves is so influential.

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SUSAN JACQUES

(L.) Yellow diamond master stones that mark the most commonly seen lower saturation boundaries of their respective grade ranges: fancy light, fancy, fancy intense, and fancy vivid; (r.) 2.08 ct. oval-cut diamond

SUSAN JACQUES GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA Before taking on the dual role of president and CEO at the Carlsbad, Calif.–based GIA in 2014, Susan Jacques spent more than three decades at Borsheims Fine Jewelry & Gifts in Omaha, Neb. Borsheims became a subsidiary of famed investor Warren Buffett’s Berkshire Hathaway in 1989, and Jacques was handpicked by Buffett to be president and CEO in 1994. 1. What’s the biggest professional risk you’ve ever taken and how did it turn out? Back in the early 1980s, I was working for a very small grading lab in Southern California, and the market took a significant downturn. I had remained friends with a classmate at GIA who said to me, “Come work in our store in Omaha.” I packed my car and went to Omaha—and I think it turned out great, because I ended up spending 31 years there. 2. What’s the best piece of professional advice you’ve ever gotten? I was fortunate our company got purchased by

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Warren Buffett. He’s an amazing boss. He doesn’t micromanage, and he expects you to run your business as if it were your only asset. When he offered me the CEO role, I spent the next half an hour trying to convince him it wasn’t a smart idea, because I was 34 and female in a very male-dominated industry. I asked him for a piece of advice, and he said, “Don’t say or do anything you don’t want to read about on the front page of the newspaper. It takes years to build your reputation, and it takes minutes to lose it.” 3. What do you consider the role of e-commerce in jewelry sales? I think we’re in an evolutionary stage. I don’t know that the market will ever all go online. I think [brick-and-mortar] retailers still play a very, very important part in how consumers shop. Almost all consumers buying today go online to do research and go into a store to touch and see it. The important thing is really fulfilling that emotion that they have, and I think many of the large brands today are looking to ensure that they have a seamless omnichannel experience so consumers can purchase in the way that suits them best.

4. What role do you think GIA has played in the growth of online jewelry retail? The adoption of technology has enabled this industry to become exceedingly global, and our GIA Four Cs public outreach campaign helps to educate the consumer on diamond quality as well as our globally recognized standards. The Four Cs has truly become the international grading standard. Our focus has always been on consumer protection, and our mission is to ensure the public trust in gems and jewelry. That authentication of the product they’re buying enables somebody to make a purchase online they wouldn’t be comfortable with if it was just a generic product being offered. 5. What lessons did you take away from the Great Recession? When everything falls off a cliff, it’s not likely you’re falling by yourself. Teamwork and commitment are critical during the difficult economic times. Also, managing the expectations of your staff, I think, is critical—helping them understand we’re all in this together and we’re going to do e verything we can to make sure the biz survives and thrives.

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Linnia ring with scalloped pavé 0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $1,990 (without center stone); brilliantearth.com

BETH GERSTEIN

(Above l.) Nouveau ring in 14k rose gold with 0.2 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds, $1,350 (without center stone), Valencia ring with 0.33 ct. t.w. micro-pavé diamonds in 14k rose gold, $1,990 (without center stone); (above) Petite Twisted Vine ring with 0.125 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds in 18k white gold, $1,190 (without center stone)

BETH GERSTEIN BRILLIANT EARTH When Beth Gerstein couldn’t find an engagement ring made with humanely and sustainably sourced materials, she realized there was an untapped market to be claimed. In 2005, she cofounded Brilliant Earth. Today, the San Francisco–based company uses recycled precious metals and diamonds that meet rigorous eco- and worker-friendly standards, and donates 5 percent of its profits to better the lives of people in mining communities in developing countries. 1. How would you describe your corporate culture, and how do you think your leadership philosophy has shaped it? Partnership and positivity are very important to us. It’s important that we foster high levels of communication and collaboration, and that we’re hiring and advocating for people that think it’s really important to focus on the mission. My focus is really on empowering employees to ensure they have a sense of ownership, a sense of accountability in their work—and that they’re able to make

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an impact not just in the business but in the world. 2. What’s an example that you think best illustrates what kind of leader you are? In everything I do, I think, I lead by example because the focus on our commitment to customers really starts at the leadership level. Once, when there was a customer who had a very tight timeline for their wedding ring, as soon as it became available, I personally drove to City Hall so they would have it in time for the ceremony. 3. There’s a certain level of awareness now about sustainable diamonds beyond the Kimberley Process. How has Brilliant Earth developed and contributed to that narrative? Educating the consumer and creating a common language was definitely important. When we first started out, I think conscious consumerism more generally was in its early stages. What has happened over time is that, as Brilliant Earth has demonstrated, there’s a really strong consumer segment, particularly among millennials, that is looking to support businesses that contribute to positive social change.

4. What lessons did you take away from the Great Recession? It’s important to be able to closely manage your resources and be sensitive to inventory management. Those [companies] that had very large inventories were probably the ones that were most at risk. The other aspect to us is we focused on really testing at a smaller scale. We tend to be more prudent on very large investments. We operate pretty lean generally, so for us it was an opportunity to take share and expand. 5. You’ve said that you draw on TED Talks for i nspiration. Which one has had the most influence on how you run your business day-to-day? There’s one from [What the Most Successful People Do Before Breakfast author] Laura Vanderkam on time management called “How to Gain Control of Your Free Time.” What appealed to me about that TED Talk is she talks about time as a choice. I have two kids, and it’s important that I have dinner with them as much as I can. So there’s kind of sacred time for me that I set aside, and I know these are my boundaries and this is what I focus on, and it allows me to say “no”—and I think saying “no” is as important as saying “yes.”

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PA RT 4 O F 6

J C K WO U L D B E N OW H E R E W I T H O U T T H E I N D U S T RY I N S I D E R S W H O H AV E H E L P E D T H E M A G A Z I N E A L O N G T H E WAY â&#x20AC;&#x201D; B Y M A K I N G T H E NEWS, READING IT IN OUR PAGES, OR BOTH. SO WE ASKED 150 OF T H E M TO J O I N T H E D I A LO G U E A B O U T H OW T H E J EW E L RY BU S I N E S S H A S C H A N G E D O V E R T H E D E C A D E S A N D T H E R O L E W E H AV E P L AY E D I N T H AT E V O L U T I O N . H E R E A R E T H E F O U RT H 2 5 .

150 Y EA RS 150 VO I C ES by Whitney Sielaff

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139 ••• “I joined N.W. Ayer on the De Beers account in New York in 1981, De Beers itself in 1985, and in founding the Forevermark brand in 2008. In the diamond business, we have seen the emergence of China and India as global demand centers, the entire world of e-commerce and digital marketing, greater transparency, widespread use of certificates, a changing retail scene, and the emergence of brands. At the same time, the billion-year-old diamond, a true miracle of nature, continues to represent the deep emotions of love, commitment, eternal elegance, and a store of value. From my earliest days, I was aware of the importance and influence of JCK. In this world of enormous disruptive change, it’s been one of the constants.”

—STEPHEN LUSSIER, CEO, Forevermark, executive vice president of marketing, De Beers Group

WONDERLIGHT EARRINGS IN 18K WHITE GOLD WITH 8.52 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS, FOREVERMARK

••• “My association with the industry spans nearly 40 years. The industry of those early days was highly stratified, with linear relationships between businesses at each level. All consumer-facing marketing was done by retailers in brickand-mortar stores, with catalog showrooms and TV representing potential threats to existing sales channels. Imports were perceived as an emerging threat. Exports by U.S. manufacturers were largely unheard of until a few pioneer designers and manufacturers pitched a tent in Basel and very slowly began to make inroads. Hard to believe now, perhaps, but you got the news from a monthly print publication. JCK was and is the bible for all things happening in the industry. Ignore it at your own risk.” —MATT RUNCI, consultant and retired president and CEO, Jewelers of America

••• “Vendors have come and gone, retailers have come and gone, while JCK has endured the evolving jewelry industry for 150 years. All aspects of the business have been covered by JCK, and the stories that share the editorial staff’s insight into the jewelry industry have helped both retailers and vendors plan for the future.” —JIM DeMATTEI, president and CEO, ViewPoint Sales & Marketing

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••• “Consumers and retailers now have direct access to the brands and the goods they want, via e-commerce or social m edia or direct buying programs. In some ways, this is a blessing, as it can increase impulse p urchases and s trengthen relationships. But it can be more challenging to cut through the clutter and c ommand the customer’s attention.” —DUVALL O’STEEN, public relations strategist, Luxury Brand Group

••• “When I was first getting my feet wet and my copy of JCK came in, I would read it like it was assigned homework! It was an incredible tool for me to become familiar with names of stores and designers as well as general industry knowledge. JCK has evolved from a strictly trade publication in look and feel to a very sexy and contemporary publication. It’s an invaluable outlet for designers at all levels, but especially those who are just starting out. Coverage can be a watershed moment for a brand that helps take them to the next level.”

—MICHELLE ORMAN, president, Last Word Communications

•••

“Our community, once family-based, has transitioned to a configuration of corporations. I miss the good old days yet look forward to our new world of unlimited opportunities. The foundation of our trade, new generations of committed young people, continues. JCK has been a reliable source of information, and its sister, the important JCK jewelry show, has created significant opportunity for U.S. and international suppliers while ensuring that retailers have access to a broad range of goods.” —MARTIN RAPAPORT, chairman, Rapaport Group

••• “When I was 27 and taking metal arts classes, I never dreamed I would start a fine jewelry store and it would still be around 40 years later! Almost all I had were magazines and articles to educate me about the industry. JCK was right there to guide me through this incredible journey. Being able to read about what other jewelers are doing and adapting them to my own business has allowed me to be creative and grow as a retail jeweler and designer and compete with the majors.” —SUSAN EISEN, chief creative and appraisal officer, Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry & Watches

•••

“JCK gives me the chance to catch up on industry knowledge when I can’t get out there to see or hear it myself. As challenging as it is today, we still rely on JCK to keep us up-to-date on the news and trends and trust its authority in the industry.” —MARK UDELL, CEO, London Jewelers

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•••

—AMANDA GIZZI, director of public relations and special events, Jewelers of America

•••

••• “There are sides to the industry that were very much on the fringes in the ’70s and early ’80s when I began. The steady rise of fine jewelry designers was really born when the first adventurous women stepped across the threshold of what had been hallowed men-only ground, and thank goodness for that. My first impression of JCK was just how big the industry was in the U.S. and what an integral part the publication played. Keeping pace and giving guidance across any industry is no mean achievement. But in one as diverse and so subject to world events as ours, it is unbelievably challenging and deserving of recognition.”

“The most obvious changes to the industry have been consolidation, globalization, the channel diversification of retailing to integrate digital with brickand-mortar, the importance of social responsibility and transparency in the supply chain, the impact of a different type of consumer placing increasing emphasis on experiences over products, and, sadly, the evaporation of liquidity and access to capital associated with the exit of the traditional banking segment from financing the industry. Happily, what has not changed is a style of doing business that places a high value on relationships.”

—STEPHEN WEBSTER, founder and creative director, Stephen Webster

—DIONE KENYON, retired president, Jewelers Board of Trade

••• “I was working through my MBA at NYU back in 1967, and I wrote a thesis, ‘Can the Independent Jeweler Survive?’ I interviewed a lot of industry people, and JCK was part of the process. When I got through, they asked if they could publish it. We were going through quite an upheaval with the growth of the Zale and Gordon chains, and we had challenges facing us like discount houses and catalog showrooms. I concluded there’s still a place for us. It was obvious that the independents had a lot of advantages and would still be there as long as we could adapt and reinvent ourselves.” —JIM CLARK, chairman, BC Clark Jewelers •••

“When I began, I was working for Milt Gralla at National Jeweler, covering retail and later watches. My biggest competitors were JCK and Modern Jeweler, and within months my best friends—and watch-world mentors—became Bill Shuster of JCK and Joe Thompson of Modern. We may have been competitors, all out for the story first, but that didn’t stop the camaraderie.” —ROBERTA NAAS, founder, ATimelyPerspective.com

••• “When I started in the family store over 40 years ago, vendors still came in with two giant rolling suitcases or a pair of sample bags. There was no fear of making appointments ahead of time, and no one felt the need to dress down in casual clothes with a backpack. Security has been a big change, and so has communication. The speed of communication these days brings good and bad. It creates great efficiencies, but also raises expectations of near-instant responses.”

—GEORGIE GLEIM, president and owner, Gleim the Jeweler

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••• “I started in the industry in 1978, in college, when I was hired as a jewelry buyer by the Zale-owned New England chain Stowell’s. I eventually went to Tiffany and then found my way to IJO. The industry has become so much more diverse. When I first joined, I took a lot of wrong steps. I almost ended up at the wives’ dinner when I first attended the 24 Karat Club of New York City banquet. I wore short skirts and bright colors to the Diamond Dealers Club. When I first laid eyes on JCK in 1978, I was drawn in like a moth to a flame. JCK ’s tagline, The Industry Authority, says it all.” —MARY MOSES KINNEY, director, Independent Jewelers O rganization

••• “I joined the diamond industry over 40 years ago, and we’ve undergone major changes: technology, the Kimberley Process—the flow of rough from country to country—and, of course, compliance. JCK has been on top of all these issues and challenges.” —RONNIE VANDERLINDEN, president, Diamex Inc., Diamond Manufacturers & I mporters Association of America

JITTERBUG CUCKOO BEE RING, STEPHEN WEBSTER; ASHOKA DIAMOND RING WITH PAVÉ DIAMOND HALO IN PLATINUM, KWIAT

“This industry is still a relatively small industry that benefits through relationships. I have had the incredible pleasure of working with the editorial team through the Gem Awards, which celebrate the achievements of leaders in the jewelry industry, as both Victoria Gomelsky and Rob Bates are Gem Award for Media Excellence winners.”

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•••

“The changes in the industry since the day, over 40 years ago, that I knocked on that ‘coming soon’ J.B. Robinson Jewelers door have been nothing less than epic. Young men would come in and ask for help with engagement rings, and the only things they wanted were a ring that was pretty and the assurance that it was ‘a good one.’ As jewelers, we’ve gone from being providers of information to being curators of value and experience. If there’s such a thing as a compass in this business, that’s what JCK has been for me.”

••• “Technology has drastically changed our industry. Computers allow us detailed access to our inventory and can immediately inform us of customers’ special occasions [and] buying and payment history. The internet has brought information and transparency to the customer, requiring everyone in the industry to step up their game. However, in many important ways, the industry has remained the same. What the customer is ultimately purchasing is an emotional expression, and it remains our job to facilitate that.”

—CRAIG UNDERWOOD, president, Underwoods Fine Jewelers

••• “When I started, my magazine, National Jeweler, was in print 10 or 12 times a year. We then migrated to online-only for a few years, only to come back around—after our acquisition by Jewelers of America—to printing two and then three magazines a year while adding social media platforms like Twitter and Instagram and upgrading our website. While the way people consume information has changed, there will always be a hunger for well-researched, thoughtful, and well-written articles both online and in print.” —MICHELLE GRAFF, editor-in-chief, National Jeweler

••• “When I joined JCK in 1968—as the magazine was just starting research for its centennial issue—jewelry retailing was vastly different from today. Chain stores were relatively few. Jewelers bought much of their merchandise through wholesalers or at the JA New York show or a few regional events, all held in the summer. Many stores still did big business in giftware, china, crystal, and especially sterling flatware. Watches were mechanical, and diamonds and other gemstones natural. Hard to believe now, but the internet was new and almost entirely inconsequential when I left JCK in the late ’90s.” —DEBBIE HOLMES, former JCK managing editor

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—KATE PETERSON, president and CEO, Performance Concepts

••• “JCK magazine has been a part of my career since day one, and to this day it remains my go-to source for best-in-class industry news. Despite an ever-changing retail industry, in my opinion, two things have not changed: the quality of news coverage by JCK magazine and the e verlasting emotional connection jewelry makes. Cheers to the continued success of both for the next 150 years!”

—PETER ENGEL, president, Fred Meyer and Littman Jewelers

••• “JCK magazine changed my life. Forty-two years ago, George Holmes hired me to cover the watch beat. What the heck can you possibly write once a month about watches, I wondered. I quickly discovered that the watch world was at war, in the throes of the greatest technological change in 400 years. Holmes had extremely high standards for business reporting. We were to be the magazine of record. In time, thanks to the start I got at JCK, I had the privilege to be editor-in-chief of three jewelry and watch magazines myself. And four decades later, I still am having no trouble whatsoever finding something to write about watches and the watch industry.”

—JOE THOMPSON, editor-at-large, Hodinkee

•••

“Before joining the magazine on July 1, 1971, I taught third and sixth grades in Brooklyn and NYC. JCK enriched my life beyond my wildest expectations! The unparalleled ethnic diversity of the jewelry industry has created a unique mosaic of multicultural entrepreneurs who embrace each other despite being crazy competitors! I was exceedingly lucky to be welcomed into so many ‘families’—India, Turkey, Israel, China, Persia, South America, Thailand, Australia, et al. I am so indebted to Lee Lawrence, Charles Bond, George Holmes, and Ed Coyne. Treasured working with Marcus [Mark Smelzer] and the esteemed sales team! Immeasurable thanks to Mamma Victoria [Gomelsky], Melissa [Bernardo], Roberto [Rob Bates], Hedda [Schupak], Cindy E. [Edelstein], PJD [Peggy Jo Donahue], and umpteen digital editors and photographers who helped make my life a super-duper fun and productive adventure.” —BILL FURMAN, former JCK ad manager and 45-year sales veteran

•••

“When I was named president of GIA in 1986, George Holmes and Charlie Bond, in particular, became friends I relied on to help steer me in the right path. They were people I greatly admired, as I did my own mentors, Richard Liddicoat, Robert Crowningshield, and Bert Krashes. In the early days we could identify most everything that crossed a gemologist’s desk with a microscope and the standard equipment that accompanied it. But the advent of sophisticated technology in man-made materials and hard-to-identify treatments forever changed that paradigm.”

—BILL BOYAJIAN, consultant and former president, GIA

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“I came into the business full time in 1969. I turned to my father and said, ‘We make a very good product, but we have to let the rest of the country know.’ The best way would be advertising. JCK had a wide reach and interesting articles that were well-written. So we started advertising in the early ’70s. We found that using JCK kept us top of mind with retailers and that they would give us a call when they were looking for a diamond.” —SHELDON KWIAT, director, Kwiat

5/9/19 12:30 PM

AND THE SANDS PLAYED ON Hera earrings with 5.01 cts. t.w. tanzanite, 7.97 cts. t.w. canary tourmaline, 0.63 ct. t.w. Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline, and 1.74 cts. t.w. diamond pavÃ© in 18k yellow gold; $42,000; Erica Courtney; 323-938-2373; ericacourtney.com

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TO C E L E B R AT E T H E R E T U R N O F T H E J C K A N D LU X U RY S H OW S TO T H E I R O R I G I N A L L O C AT I O N AT T H E S A N D S E X P O T H I S MONTH, WE ASKED FIVE VETERAN S H OW G O E R S TO R E F L E C T O N W H AT T H E Y LOVED MOST ABOUT THE OLD VENUE ( T H E PA RT I E S ! ) A N D W H AT T H E Y H O P E TO FIND THIS YEAR (NEW DESIGNERS!). Y O U C A N ’ T G O H O M E A G A I N ? WAT C H U S !

b y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d

We’ve come a long way, baby: the first JCK, aka Jewelry ’92

IT’S HAPPENING!

The JCK Las Vegas and Luxury shows are returning to their original home, the Sands Expo and Convention Center and The Venetian, this month after a successful eight-year run at the Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino. The newly renovated Sands Expo will offer longtime showgoers a familiar, albeit elevated, environment. The venue has undergone a $35 million top-to-bottom overhaul that’s transformed its convention and meeting rooms into a series of flowing spaces boasting refined-feeling interiors. The jewelry industry has responded to the return to the Sands with a collective sense of enthusiasm. We touched base with five veteran JCK Las Vegas showgoers—all influential independent fine jewelry retailers—to ask what they’re looking forward to this year and what they loved about the shows when they sparkled up the Sands nearly a decade ago.

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GERI BOTNICK

Co-owner / Worthmore Jewelers / Atlanta

HOOP EARRINGS , especially

(Above) Influencer collection 14k gold hoops and threaders, $465–$650, Royal Chain, 800-6220960, royalchain. com; (below) bracelet with 25.01 cts. t.w. oval white and fire opals and 1.6 cts. t.w. baguette and 1.05 cts. t.w. round diamonds in 18k rose gold, $29,046, Yael Designs, 415-989-9235, yaeldesigns.com

IF YOU WANT TO STOP SHOPPERS IN THEIR TRACKS, never underestimate the power and luminosity of an opal. For the most outrageous opals, visit Omi Privé, Parlé, and Yael Designs. If emeralds are more your thing, don’t miss the gobstoppers at Takat. And if you’re looking for dynamite diamonds to anchor your display, try Rahaminov and LJ West. Not surprisingly, you’ll find all these big-gem brands in Luxury. —MRB

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in gold, are having a major moment—they’ve never been out of fashion, but they’re more on-trend than ever. And gold chains of all shapes and sizes are at the top of all buyers’ shopping lists this year. For these jewelry box basics, check out the always-on-point Royal Chain, Herco, and Midas Chain—all of which can be found in Currents, on level 2 of the Sands. And don’t forget to visit Bella Italia, the 80-brand section on level 2 just outside Luxury adjacent to the Plumb Club. After all, who does gold better than the Italians? —Melissa Rose Bernardo

Geri and Harris Botnick, owners of two-store fine jewelry retail business Worthmore Jewelers based in Atlanta, have been attending JCK Las Vegas since the mid-1990s, soon after they opened their first store in midtown Atlanta 26 years ago. Their memories of the show at the Sands are fond and hark back to an era when vendors more overtly wooed retailers: “I remember the time watch company Raymond Weil had rented a ton of limos—just to wine and dine [retailers]—and you’d see them all lined up out front when you walked out of the show,” Geri says. “Watch companies back then sometimes had two-story booths. They would serve lunch on the second floor sometimes! It was like a mezzanine and you would just eat up there.” The retailing couple plan to have their annual dinner with one of their store’s top designers, Lika Behar. But nightlife always comes second for the Botnicks in Vegas. “We’re the type of people who are the first ones into the building in the morning, and then they’re kicking us out at the end of the day,” Geri says. “We really are busy.” On the retailers’ shopping list this year are trendy jewelry looks including chains, hoops, and statement sterling silver, along with “things to support social media efforts,” says Geri. The duo will also be hunting “for the pieces that catch your eye in a case that are the most expensive, but you buy because they sell everything that’s placed around them,” she explains. “But lately we’ve been selling centerpieces like crazy—so we’ll be looking for those, too!”

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Elvis Presley in the 1964 flick Viva Las Vegas

SHELIA BAYES

Owner / Shelia Bayes Fine Jewelers / Lexington, Ky.

YOU COULD DEVOTE A WHOLE TRIP TO FAMOUS VEGAS FILMS: 2009’s raucous The

Hangover (FYI: No tigers allowed at Caesars Palace); 2001’s Rat Pack remake Ocean’s Eleven, which basically had the run of the house at the Bellagio; and, perhaps most famously, 1995’s Casino. To honor the Martin Scorsese– directed classic, dine at Oscar’s Steakhouse and drink at Atomic Liquors, Sin City’s oldest bar (the site of Joe Pesci’s ballpoint pen massacre). —MRB

ELVIS: EVERETT

LOOKING FOR NEW STYLES? Make a beeline to the Design Center, on level 2 of the Sands. Here you’ll find high-end gold and gemstone jewels (Dallas Prince Designs), sleek sterling silver (Frederic Duclos, Jorge Revilla), edgy international artists (Poland’s Eva Stone and Zaremski), colorful but not budget-breaking baubles (Mia Katrin for Jewel Couture, Trésor), must-have diamond basics (Liven Co.), and more. Plus: Nearly a dozen of the 55+ exhibitors are JCK newbies, including Cameo & Beyond, which does vintage-ish pieces in porcelain, and Judith Leiber, who is channeling her crystalstudded clutch designs into a costume jewelry line. —MRB

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(Above) Guardian Angel and Cherub cameo in porcelain, 18k gold vermeil, and quartz, $1,170, Cameo & Beyond, info@cameoand beyond.com, cameo andbeyond.com; (above r.) necklaces in 14k gold with diamond bails, $1,248–$1,358, Robin Haley, contact@robinhaley jewelry.com, robin haleyjewelry.com

When Shelia Bayes thinks of the JCK shows at the old Sands, she remembers sitting around the side of a hotel bathtub in the Venetian laughing like crazy with a group of her best girlfriends, while soaking their sore feet in warm water together. The owner of Shelia Bayes Fine Jewelers in Lexington, Ky., used to bring friends on her Vegas buying trips—both to help out and to hang out—and “of course, everyone had to wear these amazing stilettos,” the retailer recalls, before adding, “Age has brought wisdom in this area!” Walking into the Sands each year, “I felt like singing ‘Viva Las Vegas,’ because that was filmed there. There was always this Elvis feel to it.” This year, Bayes is hunting for “new, up-and-coming designers” to introduce to her clientele. “We have our great high-end designers at the store, but we also want to keep offering something new to our clients,” she says. “I’m looking for more stories. I’m really looking, at this point, to add designers to the mix that have great stories and are doing something meaningful.” In between buying, Bayes says she hopes to connect with her vendors and fellow retailers off the show floor. “Vegas is so massive that we never have time to visit retailers and vendors and spend a little time taking a deep breath and enjoying each other’s company,” she says. “I think we’ve got to kind of stop competing so much with each other and start building each other up—and try to make our industry a little more relevant again.”

REX SOLOMON

Owner / Houston Jewelry / Houston

Fine jewelry retailer Rex Solomon has attended every JCK Las Vegas show, with the exception of one, since 1993. And among his favorite

DAYS 1 AND 2 OF LUXURY,

May 29–30, are invitationonly, but when JCK opens on May 31, Luxury—on level 2 of the Venetian—is open to all showgoers. In the Luxury ballrooms, you’ll find these brands, whose designs can’t be confined to a booth alone: Forevermark, Gabriel & Co. (which moves to the JCK show floor on May 31), Le Vian, Tacori, Takat, and Verragio. And don’t assume these 250+ exhibitors are out of your price range; just because it’s called Luxury doesn’t mean it’s unattainable. —MRB

memories from the show’s first run at the Sands was seeing a drove of Elvis impersonators drop from the sky. The occasion was a product release hosted by watchmaker Longines, which had hired Flying Elvi, a 10-member skydiving team. “So, you walked out of the show and there were several men dressed as Elvis in white jumpsuits, parachuting down,” he remembers. “It was incredible.” Solomon says he’s looking forward to returning this year to the Sands in large part because of its location in the middle of The Strip, which makes getting to other places convenient. The retailer’s shopping list is more stripped-down than it’s been in years past: Hurricane Harvey devastated homes in affluent areas in his community, which has affected Solomon’s sales. But he’s open to seeing and buying exciting new collections and notes, “We still have basics to fill out, and we will do that.” Luxury is

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146 Love Nest flexible bracelet in 18k rose gold with 0.33 ct. t.w. diamond pavé rondel; $7,265; Fope; fopeusa@ fope.com; fope.com

THE ESSENTIALS & TECH PAVILION —located on level

1 between the Hong Kong and (new) Global Gemstone neighborhoods—houses about 175 companies. Here you’ll find everything from displays to lighting, from CAD/CAM software to 3D printers, from microscopes to laser engravers, and more. You can even grab something as simple as jewelry packaging. —MRB

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WHILE YOU’RE AT LUXURY, check out the show’s curated pavilions: Greek Jewels is a small but mighty assembly of brands such as the Byzantineinspired Dimitrios Exclusive and the gold-strewn Samoli. Design@Luxury features artists known for handcrafted, high-end pieces: Alishan, Jennifer Dawes Design, and Just Jules, to name a few. And luxury fashion jewels rule at Prestige, home to such names as Evanueva (where you’ll find beaded necklaces in every gem imaginable), Fope (those how-did-they-do-that stretchy high-karat gold bracelets), and Lauren K (gorgeous, supersaturated colored gemstone styles). —MRB

his first stop: “Since Luxury opened early, we’ve been trying to get all our Luxury work done during that [early opening] so we have the rest of the time to do JCK, and look at tools, and our IJO vendors.” Before Solomon and his team head to the show, which he plans to approach systematically, from “the left side of the show—aisle A,” the retailer will do what he always does: crunch the inventory and sales numbers. “In preparation for buying, I’ll run an analysis of inventory last year at this time and come up with a calculation of what would be the open-to-buy from my vendors.” Buying for his business, he says, “is a math equation to some degree.”

SUSAN EISEN

Owner / Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry & Watches / El Paso and Austin, Texas

When reminiscing about JCK Las Vegas’ first Sands era, Susan Eisen, whose namesake fine jewelry business has two Texas locations, in El Paso and Austin, remembers the scores of private parties that took place back in the day. “Almost every night we were invited to a private party by a vendor in a nice restaurant,” she recalls. Eisen has been attending JCK Las Vegas since it debuted in 1992, and this year she’ll be eyeing collections from new designers, along with supplies and tools. “You can’t ever get too many tools,” she says, explaining, “I was a bench jeweler and developed a very big respect for tools. I like to look at the displays, see what’s for sale, and how the booths are set up. I get ideas for my store sometimes!” The jeweler also plans to attend a GIA seminar or two and check in at the GIA booth. “I love going to talk to them and also some of the insurance people, too. There’s a wealth of things to do and learn at JCK.” Eisen says she’s delighted with the move back to the Sands because she personally loves to stay at the Sandsadjacent Venetian Resort. But there’s one element she says she’d like the show team to carry over from its

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147 Royal Bali sterling silver earrings with rhodolite garnets, golden citrine, peridot, blue and London blue topaz, and amethysts; $432; Samuel B.; 855-SAMUELB; samuelb.com

GIA IS HOLDING THREE SEMINARS AT JCK LAS VEGAS —including two

on identifying lab-grown diamonds, both on Friday, May 31, in Lando 4204, one from 9 a.m. to 11 a.m. and another from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. But that’s just the tip of the JCK Talks iceberg. Everyone’s favorite educational track comprises more than 50 info-packed sessions, speeches, presentations, and roundtables on such subjects as fashion trends, responsible sourcing, selfpurchasers, e-commerce, omnichannel marketing, and much, much more. Visit lasvegas.jckonline.com for the full downloadable schedule. —MRB

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Artisan Created Diamonds from Spence Diamonds

THE FALL-WINTER 2019 FASHION SHOWS were

practically dripping with big earrings, and we are totally on board with that. Remember: Oversize doesn’t necessarily mean overpriced; sterling silver statement earrings can be surprisingly reasonable—and pack a ton of visual pop. Plus, as we emphasized in our May issue, don’t be afraid to mix fine and fashion. On level 2, The Bridge—where you’ll find Les Georgettes by Altesse’s colorful interchangeable bracelets, Freida Rothman’s CZ-studded stacks, Vincent Peach’s leather-and-pearl pieces, and ultrachic Lucite drama designs by Alexis Bittar—is the perfect place to dip your toe into the costume jewelry waters. —MRB

Mandalay Bay days: the attendants in the hallways holding the “Ask Me Anything” signs: “They are very beneficial to us retailers.” Don’t worry, Susan—they’ll be there!

BILL FARMER

Owner / Farmer’s Jewelry / Lexington, Ky.

“Going back to where we started will have an air of nostalgia, but it will also feel different,” says Bill Farmer, owner of Farmer’s Jewelry in Lexington, Ky., who was a speaker at the first JCK show in 1992. “We were part of the opening educational offerings,” he recalls. “My session was on ‘Winning Customer Service.’ ”

Pro tip: There’s a secret mint julep menu at Rosina in the Palazzo.

The retailer remembers spending time—professionally and socially—in rooms at the Sands that overlooked the thruway, where people walked in and out of the show. “If you had one of those rooms, you looked out and were able to watch the entirety of jewelry humanity walk before you,” he says. “It was so wild to watch e veryone—from the high to the low to the you-don’t-know. We’d be h aving great fun up there, having drinks and being together, and everyone was walking around you.” Farmer also remembers lots of impromptu parties after the show closed for the day. “Someone would say, ‘Hey, we’re staying here, come on up!’ Then you’re scrambling around trying to find something to drink. It was a little looser-feeling.” This year the retailer and his buyer are looking for earrings, and “we’re always looking around for what’s new and different,” he adds. “We are so much online now that when it comes to buying jewelry that gets noticed on social media, it’s almost like you need something that’s photogenic first and then also wearable. You almost have to grab their attention before you can tell them anything about the product.” Farmer adds that he’s excited to return to the Sands, “a familiar spot,” because “it’s where the seeds of great success were laid. We’re going back for another seeding, really. Let’s go back in for greatness!”

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THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault MEET THE PARROTS A RECENT TRIP to sunny Guatemala inspired Parisian jewelry designer Lydia Courteille to create a collection of vibrantly colored pieces that pay homage to the ancient Mayan civilization that once flourished in Central America. Along with jeweled odes to Mayan embroidery, worry dolls, and architecture, Courteille conjured these exquisite mismatched parrot earrings. “I saw a lot of parrots, and it felt [obvious] for me to put some in my collection,” says the designer, who imbued her birds with “a touch of fantasy, using stripes like you would see in Mayan fabrics.” —EMILI VESILIND

FOR THE BIRDS The parrots were forged in 19k white gold and collectively set with one 0.13 ct. diamond, 45 rubies (1.02 cts. t.w.), 111 fancy sapphires (3.84 cts. t.w.), one 3.9 gram orange opal, and 89 tsavorites (0.22 ct. t.w.).

FEATHERED FRIENDS Courteille’s been making mismatched earrings for 20 years, but says until recently they could be a hard sell. “Now everyone makes them, so it’s easier,” she notes. Both parts of her avian odd couple feature post backs— while the larger parrot also boasts an ear-climber hook affixed to its whimsically long tail feathers.

EAR FACTOR The birds were fabricated in Courteille’s Parisian workshop by “at least 10” craftspeople, says the designer, adding that the larger parrot with the climber hook doesn’t fit every ear. A retail obstacle? Perhaps. But she rather relishes the Cinderella-like challenge of “finding the ear it fits.”

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BRIDAL

150

18k gold ring with 0.93 ct. t.w. baguette diamonds; $6,000 18k yellow gold ring with 1.95 cts. t.w. square-cut diamonds; $8,300

18k yellow gold ring with 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds and 0.75 ct. t.w. square-cut sapphires; $4,100

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

18k gold ring with 0.05 ct. t.w. round diamonds; $3,700; Oscar Heyman; concierge@ oscarheyman.com; oscarheyman.com

THE NEW GUARD 18k yellow gold ring with 6.56 cts. t.w. square-cut sapphires; $9,500 Platinum ring with 3.22 cts. t.w. square-cut rubies; $10,100

GUARD RINGS, TYPICALLY worn on top of bridal ring sets, are traditionally more adorned than wedding bands. And Oscar Heyman’s new guard rings are appropriately blingy. But the collection also updates the classic style by mashing up gemstone varieties and cuts within single pieces. Diamonds, rubies, and sapphires in baguettes, squares, and rounds are featured solo in rings but also shine in innovative pairings: One of our favorite looks alternates round diamonds with square-cut sapphires. Best of all, every ring in the collection can be worn as a high- sparkle (but still relatively low-key) wedding band. —EMILI VESILIND

HOT STOCK TIP

IMPERIAL DREAMS The rounded profile and gold crisscrossing in Overnight Mountings’ engagement semimount was inspired by one of the most iconic Fabergé eggs ever made—the Imperial Coronation egg, fabricated in 1897. The idea behind the ring may be antique, but its design—which occupies the alluring space between a halo and an accented solitaire— feels positively innovative. —EV JUNE 2019

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14k yellow gold ring with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,298 (without center stone); overnightmountings.com

RINGS INSPIRED BY DISNEY ’S ALADDIN ! SEE jckonline.com/topics/bridal FOR THAT AND MORE.

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SILVER

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Rhodium-plated sterling silver choker-length necklace; $1,300; Jack Vartanian; infous@jack vartanian.com; jackvartanian.com

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

LINK BIG WHEN BR AZILIAN J EWELRY designer Jack Vartanian created his new Chain collection of oversize sterling silver necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, he had the buzz of distorted electric guitars whirring in his brain. “I wanted to create the links of a chain to give a punk rock feeling,” says the designer, who was also inspired by a pair of bracelets that combine leather and chain owned by his wife, Cássia. “They always gave me a feeling of strength…and there was a certain romanticism to them, with a pinch of rock ’n’ roll.” The collection’s chic and affordable rhodium-plated sterling silver pieces conform neatly to the current craze for big chains—and totally rock.

Small hoop earrings; $300

Large hoop earrings; $480

—EMILI VESILIND

Short earrings; $200

HOT STOCK TIP

THE BOOK OF RUTHENIUM Vicenza, Italy–based Pianegonda specializes in sophisticated sterling silver, and for spring the 25-year-old jewelry brand debuted a series of refined designs that pair the icy white metal with black ruthenium. The graphic Clipea bracelet has a futuristic feel but was inspired by nature—specifically crocodile scales, and pebbles rounded by the passage of time. —EV Sterling silver and ruthenium galvanic bracelet; $803; pianegonda.us

ROCKIN’ JOE PERRY–INSPIRED JEWELRY! SEE jckonline.com/topics/silver FOR THAT AND MORE.

JUNE 2019

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Sterling silver and red tiger’s eye pendant; $425

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

OH HENRY! INLAYS OF HARD stones dress up William Henry’s latest sterling silver collection, Satin, in hues that range from intense (red tiger’s eye) to subdued (black jade), with some space in between (labradorite’s cosmic mix of iridescent pinks and greens). The new collection from the popular McMinnville, Ore.– based men’s jewelry brand features rectangular pendant necklaces, weighty hinged bracelets, and simple square cufflinks. The easy-to-wear pieces feel classically masculine, but with an eclectic edge. —EMILI VESILIND

Sterling silver and labradorite bracelet; $1,450

Sterling silver and labradorite pendant necklace; $475

HOT STOCK TIP

DARK MATTER It can sometimes feel as though there’s nothing new under the sun when it comes to men’s rings. Enter the Ares Diamond Inset band, which Orem, Utah–based Elysium forges from a “proprietary multi-crystal black diamond matrix.” Yes, it’s an all-black diamond ring (inset with a single white diamond). And the distinctive design— which will forever double as a conversation starter—is as dapper as it is dramatic. —EV

PHOTO: TEXT RUNS VERTICAL FROM BASE: 5.5/7PT CAPS

Sterling silver and black jade cufflinks; $275; William Henry; sales@ williamhenry.com; williamhenry.com

Sterling silver and meteorite bracelet; $2,250

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Pressed black diamond ring with white diamond inset; $2,299; elysiumblack.com

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JUNE 2019

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

Show biz WORLDLY DELIGHTS

The new Global Gemstone neighborhood at JCK Las Vegas is a one-stop shop for rarities of the finest order BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

S PER USUAL, buyers attending JCK Las Vegas will find no shortage of loose colored gemstones on the show floor. What sets this year apart, however—besides the event’s new-old home at the Sands Expo and The Venetian—is that the mix of gemstone exhibitors will include both domestic and international dealers, many of whom are known for carrying merchandise that isn’t found anywhere else. Nicknamed the Global Gemstone neighborhood, the area, located across from registration on level 1, will house some 180 exhibitors segmented into ballrooms, such as the Fine Gems ballroom, a grouping of many of the highest-end gemstone dealers in the United States, says Sarin Bachmann, event vice president for JCK and Luxury. “In addition, for the very first time in Las Vegas, we have assembled around 50 members of the International Colored

emstone Association,” Bachmann says. G “The ICA ballroom will be playing host to some of the most prominent suppliers, mine owners, and cutters of colored gemstones from around the world.” Bangkok-based Nomad’s, a specialist in finely cut gems, will be there with its cache of rainbow-hued finds, including gray and pink spinels, blue-green tourmalines, and every variety of green garnet, from grossular to tsavorite to demantoid. Tourmaline in superhot “lagoon” colors will also be the draw at Los Angeles–based B&B Fine Gems, according to p rincipal Dave Bindra, who says he expects the gem conversation in Vegas to focus on s ustainability and the challenges of creating transparency in a trade known for its opaqueness. “But it has to start with dialogue,” he says. “It’s important for us to create accountability in our trade.”

(Clockwise from top) red spinel, umbalite, and lilac spinel from Nomad’s; purple fluorapatite and indicolite from Evan Caplan; aquamarine, mint tourmaline, and grossular garnet from Nomad’s

The Global Gemstones area opens hursday, May 30, one day ahead of the T main show and the same day as the show’s education track, JCK Talks, which will feature two sessions dedicated to g emstones. One will look at 2019 gemstone trends, and the second, led by the nonprofit Gem L egacy, is called “Changing Lives in Gemstone Communities.” And if the education and selection of fine stones aren’t enough to entice you, then come to the JCK show to gawk at exotic gems the likes of which may never be seen again. “I’ll be bringing really rare, museum- quality stones for collectors—like a 30 carat indicolite that’s one of the best I’ve seen and a couple fine grandidierites,” says Los A ngeles– based Evan Caplan. “Even rarer than the grandidierites is a 42 carat jeremejevite—the one I have is clear; some are more to the blue side. It’s a spectacular stone.”

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JUNE 2019

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME FUTURE SHOCK

robots roaming stores. In 2018, home improvement retailer Lowe’s introduced the LoweBot, a robot that greets customers and responds to their questions. And Walmart will roll out robots in 50 of its stores for the purpose of tracking inventory in real time.

Five tech developments that are changing retail

BY EMILI VESILIND

ETAILING USED TO be a straightforward business. Store owners stocked, advertised, and sold products; customers bought them. But the rise of technology—first the internet, then devices, artificial intelligence (AI), robotics, and more—has presented retailers and consumers alike with innovations that are upending time-honored norms. This evolution has been so rapid, it can be difficult to keep up. Here are five technological developments currently influencing the retail landscape.

EVA KATALIN/E+ /GETTY; INSETS: COURTESY SLYCE MEDIA

NONEXISTENT CHECKOUTS The traditional cash register may soon be a bona fide relic. Major retailers, from Starbucks to Apple, have been pioneering methods for register-free checkouts for years. But retail transactions of the future likely won’t even involve a handheld tablet—or a shred of human interaction. Take Amazon’s new Amazon Go convenience stores, which ditch the checkout process altogether. Shoppers simply walk in, scan a proprietary app on a turnstile, pick

PERSONALIZATION AI is also allowing retailers to offer more products that are personalized and/or customized—crucial capabilities for retailers of the future. (More than 75 percent of consumers said they’re more apt to shop with retailers that can provide recommendations based on their customers’ personal taste, according to a recent study by Accenture.) An avalanche of technology has already been integrated by retailers around the goal of personalizing products. Much of it lives online (like Nike’s “Nike By You” online shoe-builder, which lets shoppers customize every element of a pair of sneakers). But as 3D printers become more sophisticated, we’ll surely see more in-store examples of this.

up their products (all merch is RFIDtagged), and walk out. They receive an emailed receipt when they exit.

DIGITAL ASSISTANTS It’s not only checkouts that are becoming more automated. There’s a growing stable of technological tools designed to let clothing shoppers locate the perfect item, put together items to create outfits, or both. FindMine’s retailer- facing “Complete the Look” technology creates complete outfits around every product available on a retailer’s site, while universal scanner Slyce lets users take a photo of an item to receive direct matches (or products that are similar).

FAUX SPOTTERS

ROBOTS Artificial intelligence may still conjure visions of translucent humanoids, but consumers are interfacing with AIpowered tech already—iPhone’s digital assistant Siri is powered by AI, as are the more sophisticated e-commerce chatbots. But as AI technology advances, we will probably see more physical

Slyce helps you search and shop.

Luxury goods retailers are seeing the proliferation of tech tools that verify the authenticity of their inventory. Entrupy, a leading one, uses AI and machine learning to determine if an item is the real thing: Retailers take photos of certain elements of handbags, jewelry, and so forth, and the software studies them for off-brand irregularities. The accessible-by-app system has an impressive 99.1 percent success rate.

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Tool Time

THE The design tweaks are courtesy of Kate Spade creative director Nicola Glass.

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

KATe SPADe NeW YoRK SCAlloP 2 K ATE SPADE NEW York’s original Scallop, released in 2018, checked a lot of boxes for female smartwatch wearers. The Bluetooth-connected timepiece was feminine but boasted a bigger dial, robust functionality, and on-trend appeal. Together with wearables partner Fossil Group, the brand updated the Scallop 2 in savvy ways for this spring, upgrading the watch’s tools and elevating its distinctive design. —EV What it does: The touch-screen Scallop 2 connects to iPhone and Android phones to run third-party apps including Google Assistant, notifies users of calls/texts/emails, tracks fitness endeavors, plays music, and more. New features in this model include a heart rate sensor, an NFC (near-field communication) reader (for Google Pay), and GPS.

What we liked: The dial features a playing-card spade motif at the 12 o’clock index that functions as a heart rate touchpoint, making it simple to check your heart rate. And the Scallop 2 comes preloaded with a “micro app” that lets you answer a few simple questions to create a full-color dial design that complements your outfit. Cute!

Best features: The new watch looks and feels more upscale than its predecessor. The scallop border now extends to the straps: The entry-level watch comes with a pared-down black or white silicone strap with scalloped edges; the premium version has a metal bracelet with scallop-edged links. Both are girly but not juvenile—an aesthetic that’s a signature of the brand. ($295; katespade.com)

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The S9i features magnification up to 55x, and a 9:1 zoom for rapid transitions from overview to details.

Share what you’re seeing under your microscope with colleagues using Stuller’s new Leica Stereozoom S9i, a microscope that boasts an integrated 10 megapixel camera. The investment-worthy scope connects to a company’s network via lightning-fast Ethernet, so you can live-stream up to 35 images to monitors, desktop and laptop computers, and mobile devices (including tablets) in real time. Results can be documented in both video and image format. We’d be hard-pressed to come up with an easier way to answer questions, get a second opinion, or share information without saying a word. ($4,978; stuller.com) —EV JCKONLINE.COM

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OUR HIGH QUALITY BANDS ARE RESPONSIBLE AND ECO-FRIENDLY Â¨

*Refers to 1,000 Series Program

Generate thousands in revenue with minimal investment. Choose from four programs with tiered price points to maximize turns. Guaranteed to sell, these band programs include popular 5 stone rings, channel bands or plain band styles. All bands are made in the USA from Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. A white leatherette tray comes complimentary with your initial purchase of any Harmony Band Program. CALL 1-800-759-9997 FOR ALL PROGRAM DETAILS!

www.hooverandstrong.com

info@hooverandstrong.com

1-800-759-9997

JCK Las Vegas Booth 11048

DISCOVER THE BEST BOOTH IN LAS VEGAS

Gemstone Trees

80% OFF RETAIL

150 Styles of Leather & Gemstone Multi Wrap Bracelets

New STEEL HEARTS Jewelry

Recycled Metal Art Sculptures

$10

90% OFF RETAIL

75% OFF RETAIL

Crystal Figurines • Crystal Key Chains • Gemstone Globes Gemstone Jewelry • Gemstone Candle Holders Native American Silver & Turquoise Jewelry • Fossils • Minerals Wood Watches • Silk Jewelry Pouches • Exotic Belts and Buckles

Enjoy our extended hours! MAY 27 – JUNE 4 • 9AM – 11PM FREE COFFEE · FREE WATER · FREE GIFT

VISIT OUR FLAGSHIP LOCATION INSIDE THE GRAND CANAL SHOPPES VENETIAN NEXT TO BRIGHTON

Kalifano.com • +1.702.837.6812 •  �� @Kalifano

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE Kimberly Collins Colored Gems 18124 Wedge Parkway, Su Suite 2018 Reno, NV 89511 Tel: 512-661-8778 Email: kim@kimberlycollinsgems.com kim@kimberlycoll Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com kimberlycollinsg Kimberly Collins, a premier U.S.–based U.S. based American Gem Trade Association gem dealer, also creates exquisite jewelry. Her thoughtful designs showcase her skill as a gem dealer combined with her eye for current trends and timeless beauty.

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Blue Ray Diamonds 45440 Ford Road Canton, MI 48187 Tel: 734-459-8664 Fax: 734-459-8617 Email: takess@aol.com Website: blueraydiamonds.com Our invention is called the Super Halo. We have enhanced the halo and solitaire jewelry with diamonds. In this innovative design, the center diamond/stone sits in a shimmering pool of diamonds.

Lika Behar Collection 80 Triangle Blvd. Carlstadt, NJ 07072 Tel: 201-933-7200 Fax: 201-933-2700 Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Website: likabehar.com Lika Behar Collection combines the rich inspiration of ancient jewelry traditions with a modern flair, nimble 24k gold infused with brilliant gemstones—all uniquely handmade. Necklace: $4,070. Cuff: $7,700. Earrings: $2,890.

Rembrandt Charms 370 S. Youngs Road Williamsville, NY 14221 Tel: 800-828-7840 Fax: 800-828-7811 Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Website: rembrandtcharms.com Rembrandt Charms displays produce $4,500–$7,500 in sales per square foot! The repeat business and sales generated through our Business Building Charm Program spell success for retail jewelers just like you.

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Royal Chain Group 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com In celebration of a major gold renaissance, Royal Chain has released a fabulous special-edition gold collection of new designs. See these adorable, trendy circle pendants in JCK Las Vegas Booth 7109. MSRP: $500

Atelier Swarovski Tel: 401-339-2715 Email: peter.englehart@swarovski.com Website: atelierswarovski.com Atelier Swarovski fine jewelry collections represent refined elegance and “Conscious Luxury.” The collections embody a new spirit of design, compassion, and sustainability featuring Swarovski Created Diamonds, created gemstones, and responsibly sourced genuine gemstones and gold.

JUNE 2019

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

162

Arch Crown Inc. 460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Poly-Lam Thermal Transfer Computer Tags. Start tagging your merchandise with Arch Crown computer tags. Poly-Lam material has superior print durability and can withstand ultrasonic cleaning; text and bar code will not rub off. Clear-Tail tags in gold, silver, and white. Visit JCK Las Vegas Booth 52033.

Midas Chain 151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com

Jewelers Mutual Group 24 Jewelers Park Drive Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com Dedicated to the jewelry industry since 1913â&#x20AC;&#x201D;discover how Jewelers Mutual will support you for a stronger tomorrow.

Artistry Ltd. 8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: orders@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com

Revolve Hoops Turn Heads: Make it easy for others to remember your name without needing a proper introduction. Personalize your 14k yellow gold hoops with Type x Midas. MSRP: $1,485

Artistryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dolce collection features necklaces in 14k yellow gold with diamonds and semiprecious gemstones. Includes a 16- to 18-inch adjustable chain. MSRP: starting at $530. More gemstone options and matching pieces also available.

Alpress Mold, Design, Machines & Consulting

Christopher Designs

Seyitnizam Mah. Demirciler Sitesi 9. Yol No: 26 Zeytinburnu, Istanbul, Turkey Tel: 90-212-416-65-05 Fax: 90-212-416-65-54 Email: info@alpress.com.tr Website: alpress.com.tr

50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@christopherdesigns.com Website: christopherdesigns.com

We established the Alpress Design, Mold, & Consulting company in 2003 to supply molds and presses to jewelers. We produce laser systems, and laser welding, marking, and cutting machines. We do consulting for factories about stamping line production.

The Christopher Designs portfolio of patented diamond cuts allows retailers to differentiate from the competition and remain profitable in the diamond category. All settings are meticulously crafted and proudly made in the USA.

JUNE 2019

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Lab Grown Diamonds & Jewelry

JCK LAS VEGAS SHOW MAY 31-JUNE 3 BOOTH 13147 Lab Grown Diamond Section Hall B, 2nd Floor

We are on a mission to spread smiles 10% goes to consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s charity choice info@smilingrocks.com / 646.452.7046 (for appointments) www.smilingrocks.com / smilingrocksco

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

164

ShangHai Lao Feng Xiang Co. Ltd

Belle Étoile

No. 270 Caoxi Road Shanghai, China 200235 Tel: 0086-21-64833388 Fax: 0086-21-64706366 Email: lfxscb@126.com Website: laofengxiang.com

5901 Christie Ave., Suite 501 Emeryville, CA 94608 Tel: 415-626-9223 Fax: 415-373-9484 Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Website: belleetoilejewelry.com

Golden Ruyi. Ruyi is well-known for its symbolism for auspiciousness, while phoenix, peony, and fish all stand for happiness in Chinese culture. This collection symbolizes good fortune passed on from generation to generation.

Discover Belle Étoile, award-winning designer jewelry brand. French for “beautiful star,” Belle Étoile offers exquisite designs and exciting programs to help drive traffic and increase sales in your store. Visit us at belleetoilejewelry.com to learn more.

Swarovski North America Ltd.

Stuller Inc.

10 E. 53rd St., 26th Floor New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-935-4200 Email: customerservice.gemstones@swarovski.com Website: swarovski-createddiamonds.com

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

Swarovski Created Diamonds build on the heritage of creativity, craftsmanship, and innovation, marking a step forward in the history of innovative man-made materials. Swarovski Created Diamonds have a laser inscription clearly identifying them as man-made.

Stuller’s new magnetic ring builder is the perfect interactive sales tool for brides-to-be that want options. Let them mix and match setting and shank designs, stone sizes and shapes, center stone orientation, and metal qualities.

Parade Designs Inc. Golden Line Merkez Mah 29 Ekim Cad No: 55 Yenibosna, Bahcelievler, 34530 Istanbul, Turkey Tel: 90-212-639-71-99 Fax: 90-212-639-69-77 Email: export@goldenlinejew.com Website: goldenlinejew.com Please visit us at JCK Las Vegas to see our new collections.

JUNE 2019

1327 S. Myrtle St. Monrovia, CA 91016 Tel: 213-627-4019 Email: contact@paradedesign.com Website: paradedesign.com Parade’s award-winning designs feature nature-inspired classics as well as modern vintage compositions. By incorporating brilliant-cut diamonds and gemstones, the finest metals, and precise techniques, each piece is meticulously crafted and ready to wear for generations.

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

166

Effy Jewelry

Alex Velvet Inc.

Website: effyjewelry.com

3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90065 Tel: 323-255-6900 Fax: 323-255-6934 Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Website: alexvelvetusa.com

Forty Years of Vivid Color: What better way to highlight Effy’s 40-year milestone than by showcasing the gemstone synonymous with four decades—the ruby. A 1.9 ct. oval ruby beautifully graces the center of this limited-edition diamond ring—the epitome of elegance. Details: Effy 14k white gold ruby and diamond ring, 3.59 cts. t.w., Web ID: 10227.

Find out how to get featured in Product Showcase. Contact your JCK sales representative today.

Alex Velvet presents the new Floral collection. You can highlight your windows with seasonal colors.

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com R & P has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info. JCK Las Vegas Booth 50006

Smiling Rocks 1177 Sixth Ave., Fifth Floor, Office 5010 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 646-452-7046 Email: info@smilingrocks.com Website: smilingrocks.com Smiling Rocks is a luxurious and transparent lab-grown diamond and lab-grown diamond jewelry brand. Giving back is our story. We donate 10 percent of each purchase to the consumer’s choice of charity. Our jewelry is a great reminder to have faith in a better tomorrow.

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE Beny Sofer Inc.

555 Fifth Ave., Suite 301 New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-575-0213 Fax: 212-944-9726 Email: asofer@benysofer.com Website: benysofer.com This new piece from Sofer Jewelry exemplifies classic diamond sophistication with a totally on-trend design. This multilayered fashion ring features six stunning rows, each highlighting a different shape diamond more beautiful than the next.

Shy Creation

631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Visit the revamped Shy Creation at JCK Luxury LUX1227 to explore our latest arrivals and exciting new offerings.

167

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com

Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

Dabakarov

62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.

Adasco Designs

62 W. 47th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-632-6685 Email: info@adasco.com Website: adasco.com We are specialists in fine matched fancy-shape diamonds, available loose in pairs and layouts or mounted in fine jewelry. Custom-made mountings are available to fit your center diamond or gemstone. Visit us at JCK Las Vegas Diamond Plaza Lounge Booth 3048.

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE ShangHai Lao Feng Xiang Co. Ltd No. 270 Caoxi Road Shanghai, China 200235 Tel: 0086-21-64833388 Fax: 0086-21-64706366 Email: lfxscb@126.com Website: laofengxiang.com

Lilies of the Sea. Lilium is an ancient marine organism that drifts with the waves, confusing people that they are plants. The vast ocean seems to be the epitome of human society. If ocean elves want to survive, they must disguise and persevere.

Nicole Barr

Tel: 877-810-7312 Email: us-info@nicolebarr.com Website: nicolebarr.com This iconic Compass Rose pendant and earring set is beautifully handcrafted in sea-blue fired enamel over rhodium-plated sterling silver. From the designers at Nicole Barr. MSRP: $550

Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. Unit 308, Fu Hang Industrial Bldg. 1 Hok Yuen Street East, Hung Hom Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: 852-23632122 Fax: 852-27641328 Email: jewellery@peterlam.com.hk Website: peterlam.com.hk

Engagement ring in 18k white gold. Gold weight: 5.25 grams. Center diamond weight: 1 ct. Mounting total diamond weight: 0.65 ct. (Style 150381)

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE 27TH INTERNATIONAL FAIR OF AMBER, JEWELLERY & GEMSTONES

Aero Diamonds by RIU Jewels

10 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-616-7661 Email: info@aerodiamonds.com Website: aerodiamonds.com See our newest collections of pierced diamond and colored stone jewelry at the JCK show. Handcrafted in New York in 18k gold and platinum. Stay connected and follow us on Instagram at @aerodiamonds. Visit us at JCK Las Vegas Booth 10113.

Le Vian®

Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Le Vian toasts the 20th anniversary of its exclusive Chocolate Diamonds® in the Veronese ballroom at Luxury (May 29–June 3) and the JCK show (May 31–June 3)! Schedule your appointment today to view the 2020 collections. Contact sales@levian.com.

Getana & Co.

20 W. 47th St., Suite 806 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 718-786-2900 Fax: 718-361-2148 Email: getanausa@aol.com Getana & Co. is a manufacturer of fashion-forward diamond jewelry in 14k and 18k gold. Wholesalers are welcomed. Visit us at JCK Luxury Booth LUX31093. Closes in observance of Shabbat.

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Phillip Gavriel 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: phillipgavriel.com Discover Phillip Gavriel’s latest introduction of new Italian cable designs, exploding with textures and color. JCK Las Vegas Booth 7110

Thorsten 404 E. First St., Suite 1204 Long Beach, CA 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings.com Website: thorstenrings.com Black is the new gold. Thorsten carries over 600 styles for the modern jeweler. We specialize in alternative metals, giving your customer quality at an affordable price. Call us for more information at 888-209-4757.

Almor Design – Heskia 98 Cuttermill Road, Suite 125 Great Neck, NY 11023 Tel: 516-482-8030 Fax: 516-482-0259 Email: info@almordesign.com Website: heskiaco.com Almor Design is a leading jewelry manufacturer specializing in high-end white diamond fashion jewelry you’ve never seen before. We carry a unique collection of GIA-certified natural fancy color diamond jewelry as well, in particular green and blue.

JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Costar Imports, Inc. Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com After customer demand, we have taken our most popular stackable wedding bands and introduced matching stackable bangle bracelets with our new locking mechanisms! These bracelets can be customized with diamonds and birthstones.

Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com 302™ is Stuller’s new brand of fine jewelry, created with the selfpurchaser in mind. The average wholesale price of each design is under $300. See all the designs at stuller.com/302finejewelry.

Hoover & Strong THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY STAY CONNECTED WITH

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The industry’s go-to online source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry. JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.

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10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 m Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com Hoover & Strong has over 650 die-struck bands including hundreds of new classic, fancy, multi-tone, and diamond styles! All bands are Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our products.

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R I O T I N T O S E L E C T D I A M A N TA I R E S

Do You Know Where Your Diamonds Come From? Consumers want to know that their diamonds are natural, responsibly sourced and have a clear mine of origin story. Rio Tintoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s independently audited Chain of Custody program ensures the distinguished provenance of melee sizes and single stone diamonds direct from the Argyle and Diavik diamond mines. Visit one of our Authorised Partners to find out more about the program and how it can benefit your business.

14108

5068

P C-130

13079

ASIAN STAR

DIANCO

DIAROUGH (UNI-DESIGN USA)

HARI KRISHNA EXPORTS (H.K. DESIGNS)

8031

12111

3075

PC-750

KAPU GEMS

KGK INTERNATIONAL

KIRAN EXPORTS

KP SANGHVI & SONS LLP

10043

7075

4069

7055

SHEETAL GROUP

SHREE RAMKRISHNA EXPORTS

SHRI HARI GEMS

VENUS JEWEL

V I S I T U S O N L I N E : S E L E C T D I A M A N TA I R E .C O M

A U S T R A L I A N D I A M O N D S .C O M

D I A M O N D S W I T H A S T O R Y.C O M

D I AV I K S O U R C E D.C O M

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE RDI Diamonds Inc.

2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again. You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100 percent Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.

Earstuds USA

5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 Email: david@earstudsusa.com Website: earstudsusa.com These 5.41 cts. t.w. fancy, light yellow, VS clarity, radiant-cut diamond earrings are sure to turn heads. Mounted in 18k yellow and white gold, complemented with round diamonds, G-H VS. Visit us at JCK Las Vegas Booth 6108.

Gabriel & Co

545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: lverona@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Gabriel & Co.’s unique diamond engagement rings and bridal sets capture the true love and excitement of your journey toward matrimony. They will forever be a symbol of your commitment to your special someone. MSRP: $505–$2,600

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How would your business look today, if our smallest ﬂoor display had been cultivating over 400 new and repeat customers annually?

Business Building Charm Program Beneﬁts: • Rembrandt’s charm displays generate $4,500 - $7,500 in sales per square foot! • Complete selection of inventory-controlled displays available. Re-order only what you sell! • Our vertical displays contain the best-selling charms by region, leading to impulse Sterling Silver sales and Karat Gold special orders. • Our charm collectors are loyal, repeat customers! • Store Listing on our Website’s Retail Locator. Are you Listed?

Digital and Print Marketing Support!

What Retailers Are Saying “Rembrandt’s wide assortment of affordable, high quality charms has helped us capture the under $200 price point without compromising the quality of our merchandise.” - Jim Brusilovsky, Mark’s Jeweler, Proudly selling Rembrandt Charms for over 22 years!

Contact Us Today! Orders@RembrandtCharms.com • p.800-828-7840 • f.800-828-7811 • www.rembrandtcharms.com Lifetime Warranty

Handcrafted in USA & Canada

Thousands of Charms in Gold and Silver

Retail Locator

Business Building Charm Program

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE Stuller Inc.

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Ever&Ever® is a complete bridal program with a prototype selling system that features easily customized designs on Stuller.com or through CounterSketch. Choose from engagement rings and matching bands, diamond bands, and wedding bands.

Come by and visit us at JCK Vegas May 31st - June 3rd

Booth 55043

Engagement ring in 18k white gold. Gold weight: 5.15 grams. Total diamond weight: 0.55 ct. (Style 140760)

Also come and visit the New AWCI Mobile Horology Classroom

Booth 12043 for a free watch battery replacement and have AWCI‘s professionals answer all your watchmaking questions

Cirari

36 W. 44th St., Suite 900 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488 Email: info@cirari.com Website: cirari.com Cirari is a leading designer and manufacturer of gemstone and diamond jewelry. Our collection is finely crafted with exquisite style and competitive prices to meet every woman’s demand at every stage of her life. We are committed to providing superior quality and craftsmanship in each item.

www.renatabatteries.us www.awci.com

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Consumers care about the positive stories behind diamonds

ENTREPRENEURSHIP • EDUCATION • EMPLOYMENT • WORKPLACE ADVANCEMENT

Contact D.E.F to see how Read these stories and more at DiamondsDoGood.com

Share The Good

DIAMONDS DO GOOD

CLASSIFIEDS

178

SERVICES TO TRADE

BUSINESS FOR SALE

INVISIBLE EXPERTS!

ELITE RETAIL JEWELER LOCATION! 74 YEARS STRONG OPPORTUNITY AWAITS PRESTIGIOUS DEMOGRAPHICS AZ, 85253 480-970-4341

INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR • SIZING • REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES • LASER WELDING

We Have The Answer to Your Problems! www.invisibleexperts.com SIGNATURE JEWELRY INC.

1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026

617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014

REPS WANTED Diamond Jewelry Manufacturer from Asia Looking for Independent Sales Representative for under $200 competitive product line (Fine Jewelry). Great commission. Submit resume at contact@diaminejewels.com

GBC, Inc.

CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING 3D computer design 3D wax printing ● Precious metal casting ● ●

Stone setting and ﬁnishing Diamond supply ● Laser engraving & repair ●

●

Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com

OUR CHALLENGE! 50% cost reduction guaranteed in custom designs manufacturing of fine jewelry with our 100% in-house production. To accept, email: contact@diaminejewels.com

HERITAGE APPRAISERS, INC Heritage Appraisers has a solution for your appraisal business. We offer several solutions to help increase and manage your appraisal business. Allows you to spend more time on the sales floor and managing your business.

Come represent GBC, a 116 year old company, long considered the largest wholesaler of surpluses, closeouts and other opportunities. First-quality delivery goods $50-$50,000. Applicants with and without experience considered. Confidentially contact Richard 617-226-1101 or rlawler@gbcjewelry.com. See Richard or Greg at JCK booth #B45017.

WATCHES & WATCH WORK ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices. Star Findings PO Box 6167, West Orange, NJ 07052 212-941-7655 ernie@starfindings.com www.starfindings.com

WATCHMAKER WANTED!

For more information contact Stephen Lott Jr at 216 239-1549 or email slott@heritageappraisers.com

JUNE 2019

Min. 10 years of experience repairing Patek Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, perpetual calendar, chronograph, lathe work, etc. $82,000/year plus benefits. Please email or fax your resume to joshua@grayandsons.com or fax: 305-865-9666

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com

Dunkin’s Diamonds Sunny Southwest Florida MANAGEMENT AND SUPERVISORS $50 – $150K sales expertise, experience in marketing, accounting. Think outside the box. Guild jewelry company. hr@dunkins.net

SCHOOLS & EDUCATION JEWELRY CLASSES

• Wax Modeling • Casting Mold Making • Bead Pearl Stringing • Diamond Setting • Rendering/Design • Jewelry Repair Long and Short Term Courses EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. 32 East 31 Street (Park & Madison) New York, NY 10016 Call (212) 686-1944 www.studiojewelersltd.com

STUDIO JEWELERS, LTD

RUN A CLASSIFIED AD STARTING AT $220 Call your JCK Sales Representative or email JCKClassifieds@advance.net.

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TAO Las Vegas & Beach Club S U N D AY, J U N E 2 | 8 : 0 0 P M

ON SUNDAY, JUNE 2, JCK IS TAKING OVER TAO LAS VEGAS & BEACH CLUB FOR AN INDUSTRY EVENT LIKE NO OTHER! EXPERIENCE THE NIGHTLIFE OF LAS VEGAS AT TAO, WHICH IS CONVENIENTLY LOCATED IN THE VENETIAN OFFERING CONVENIENCE OF STAYING ON PROPERTY TO ENJOY A NIGHT OF NETWORKING. EXCLUSIVELY FOR JCK BADGE HOLDERS. MUST HAVE JCK/LUXURY SHOW BADGE OR JEWELRY INDUSTRY SHOW BADGE FOR ENTRY. MUST BE 21+.

TITLE SPONSOR

J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 1 9 . C O M / TA O TA K E O V E R

ADVERTISING

INDEX

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Adasco Designs pg. 65 Website: adasco.com Email: info@adasco.com Phone: 212-819-0288 Toll-Free: 800-632-6685 AGS Laboratories pg. 80 Website: agslab.com Alex Velvet pg. 53 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Artco Group pg. 158 Website: artcogroup.com Toll-Free: 877-222-7820 Artistry Ltd. pg. 44 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 ARY Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;PO, INC. pg. 46 Website: arydpo.com Email: info@arydpo.com Phone: 747-229-0880

Downeast Trading pg. 166 Website: downeasttrading.com Email: downeast@sover.net Toll-Free: 800-626-5700 Earstuds USA pg. 151 Website: earstudsusa.com Email: sales@earstudsusa.com Toll-Free: 866-327-7883 Effy pg. Gatefold cover Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Facet Barcelona USA Inc. pg. 39 Website: facetbarcelona.com/usa Email: sales@facet.es Phone: 212-302-8200 Fax: 347-441-0908 Frey Wille pg. 52 Website: freywille.com Gabriel & Co. pg. 37 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400

Italgem Steel pg. 42 Website: Italgemsteel.com Email: sam@italgemsteel.com Phone: 514-388-5777 Toll-Free: 855-ITALGEM Fax: 514-384-5777

Mira Style Jewellery Company Limited pg. 79 Website: estore.mirastyle.com Email: info@mirastyle.com Phone: 213-622-5233 Fax: 213-622-5549

JCK Events pg. 20-21, 179 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626

Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 68 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327

Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 8-9 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 183 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 171 Website: gemlogis.com Email: enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333

Gdansk International Fair Co. pg. 170 Website: amberif.pl Email: amberif@mtgsa.com.pl Phone: +48 58 554 91 34

Kalifano LLC pg. 160 Website: kalifano.com Email: orders@kalifano.com Phone: 702-837-6812 Fax: 702-791-5503

Christopher Designs pg. 73 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970

Getana & Co. pg. 45 Website: getanausa.com Email: sales@getanausa.com Phone: 718-786-2900

Le Vian pg. Inside front cover, 1, Back Cover Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN

Color Jewels Inc. pg. 71 Website: cirari.com Email: tarek@colorjewels.net Phone: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488

GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250

Les Georgettes pg. 59 Website: lesgeorgettes.com Email: orders@lesgeorgettesusa.com Phone: 718-360-2917

Costar Imports pg. 49 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR

Herco pg. 67 Website: herco.com Email: info@herco.com Toll-Free: 800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699

Belle Ă&#x2030;toile pg. 77 Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Toll-Free: 877-838-6728

Dabakarov pg. 75 Website: dabakarov.com Email: info@dabakarov.com Phone: 212-730-1888 Diamond Empowerment Fund pg. 177 Website: diamondempowermentfund.org Dimitrios Exclusive pg. 56 Website: dimitrios-exclusive.gr Email: info@kapsaskisjewelry.gr Phone: +306972894867 Fax: +302105757985

JUNE 2019

Hoover & Strong pg. 159 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997 International Jewellery London pg. 181 Website: jewellerylondon.com Istanbul Jewelry Show pg. 165 Website: istanbuljewelryshow.com Email: info-rotaforte@ubm.com Phone: +90 212 519 07 19

Lika Behar Collection pg. 33 Website: likabehar.com Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Phone: 201-933-7200 Lorenzo Jewelry Limited pg. 12-13 Website: ljintl.com Email: sales@ljintl.com Phone: +852 2764 3622 Fax: +852 2764 3783 Midas pg. 4-5 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765

Nicole Barr pg. 48 Website: nicolebarr.com Email: us-info@nicolebarr.com Phone: 919-846-3704 Toll-Free: 877-810-7312 Fax: 919-846-3705 Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd.pg. 14-15 Website: peterlam.com.hk Email: kenter@peterlam.com.hk Phone: +852 23555897 Fax: +852 27641328 Phillip Gavriel pg. 10-11 Website: phillipgavriel.com Email: info@phillipgavriel.com Phone: 212-382-3340 PREMIERTM pg. 63 Website: premiershow.com Email: Amanda.hampton@emeraldexpo.com Phone: 646-668-3740 Ramon pg. 168 Website: ramon.es Email: ramon@ramon.es Phone: +34 934 343 000 Fax: +34 934 343 001 Rand & Paseka pg. 64 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 60 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rembrandt Charms pg. 175 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811 Renata Batteries pg. 176 Website: renatabatteries.us Email: renata_sales@swatchgroup.com Phone: 786-725-5374/5424 Rio Tinto Diamonds pg. 173 Website: diamondswithastory.com Phone: 646-429-1624

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Advertorial

IJL Design Gallery showcases the best in UK jewellery design talent By David Brough

The IJL Design Gallery is a showcase for the best emerging talent in the UK, a hotbed of creativity in the global jewellery industry. Fei Liu suggests: “British creativity has always been known for representing something new and different. The Design Gallery has become the opportunity to demonstrate all kinds of new ideas.” Rachel adds that the UK is a fabulous environment for designers to test their creativity to the limits.

Design pioneers like Birmingham-based Fei Liu will present their latest collections in the IJL Design Gallery this year. “The IJL Design Gallery reflects the spirit of British creativity in the jewellery industry,” Fei said. Showcases like the Design Gallery are important because retailers take greater risks when they invest in emerging talent, compared to established brands. Rachel Galley, another rising star of the UK jewellery design scene, who has exhibited at the IJL Design Gallery, describes the area as “a great environment for designers to show their individuality and new products in an intimate and relaxed way”. IJL has an international reputation for showing new talent and has run innovative events such as “Bright Young Gems,” which has helped the careers of fledgling designers to take off.

Isabella Liu, shortlisted as Young Designer of the Year in the forthcoming UK Jewellery Awards, pointed out that “The arts and the creative industries are very strong in the UK.” Alexander Davis, a former winner of Best Designer at the UK Jewellery Awards, believes the UK presents a great opportunity to budding designers through its design colleges and mentoring programmes. He states that:

“

The ethos in the UK is that you can dare to be different, and you don’t need to be scared to be creative.

”

Images from Fei Liu Fine Jewellery featuring the New ‘Star of Love’ silver collection and bespoke pieces’. View the full article and images at: www.blog.jewellerylondon.com

ADVERTISING

INDEX

182

Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3, 10-11 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Royal India USA pg. 43 Website: royalindiausa.com Phone: 212-616-7661 Schofer pg. 182 Website: schofer.com Email: info@schofer.com Phone: +49 (0) 7231-91030 Sethi Couture pg. 169 Website: sethicouture.com Phone: 415-863-1475 Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang pg. 16-17 Website: laofengxiang.com Shy Creation Inc. pg. 41 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 Smiling Rocks pg. 163 Website: smilingrocks.com Email: info@smilingrocks.com Phone: 818-441-8125

Sofer Jewelry pg. 148 Website: Benysofer.com Email: info@benysofer.com Phone: 212-575-0213 Toll-Free: 800-307-6337 Fax: 212-944-9726 Star Jewelry pg. 154 Website: blueraydiamonds.com Email: Takess@aol.com Phone: 734-459-8664 Fax: 734-459-8617 Sterling Reputation pg. 54 Website: sterlingreputation.com Email: info@sterlingreputation.com Phone: 954-578-1880 Stuller Inc. pg. 81-96, 156 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655

Thai Trade Center pg. 167 Website: bkkgems.com Email: bkkgems@ditp.go.th The Collective pg. 47 Website: thecollectivelasvegas.com Email: Amanda.hampton@emeraldexpo.com Phone: (646) 668-3740 Thorsten Jewelry pg. 57 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com Umicore pg. 174 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 William Goldberg pg. 29 Website: williamgoldberg.com Email: info@williamgoldberg.com Phone: 212-980-4343

Swarovski Gemstones pg. 6-7, 31 Website: swarovski-gemstones.com

Copyright ©2019 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 150 No. 4 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/ August, September/October, and November/ December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

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184

THE WAY WE WERE COVER STORIES FROM 150 YEARS OF JCK

DARK ’30

THE YEAR IS 1930—which might account for the austere cover. The start of the Great Depression could also explain the feature “Customer Arranges Own Payment Plan,” focusing on Barrett W. Stephenson, credit manager of the Adams Jewelry Co. of Tampa, Fla. “The customer knows best how he”—of course it’s a he—“can finance his purchase.” But what happens if said customer can’t pay off his pricey purchase? “Instead of confiscating the article, as do so many firms, we take it back and give him a diamond or watch of the value for which he has paid,” says Stephenson. “In a number of instances the patron has returned to us at a later date, when his finances were in a better condition and purchased additional merchandise.” This issue also touted a three-day credit jewelers convention in Philadelphia. One of the hot topics: “Credit and Collections.” We can’t help but wonder what those attendees made of Mr. Stephenson’s, ahem, pioneering payment plan. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

PHOTOGRAPH BY NESTOR CERVANTES

The Jewelers’ Circular entered the Great Depression with a not entirely surprising focus on credit, finance, and creative customer payment plans

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