JCK 2019 Lab-Grown Diamond Report

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

N T 19 O W P O R 20- G R R E B D LA ON AM DI

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

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R E T A I L E R S A R E S E E I N G I N C R E A S E D D E M A N D A N D V E R Y F E W D R AW B A C K S T O S E L L I N G L A B - G R O W N D I A M O N D S . I S T H I S T H E D AW N O F A D É T E N T E B E T W E E N S U P P O R T E R S O F M I N E D V E R S U S M A N - M A D E G E M S , O R S I M P LY A T E M P O R A RY C E A S E - F I R E ?

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b y K r i s t i n Yo u n g

HE JEWELRY INDUSTRY’S long-standing fear of labgrown diamonds appears to be rapidly disappearing. Instead of complaining about the potential damage nontransparency could wreak and the adverse effect man-made stones could have on the global diamond market, retailers are chanting about the emerging business opportunities.

Consumers, too, have shown a willingness to embrace lab-grown diamonds and are gladly eschewing stones mined from the earth in favor of manufactured gems—particularly if they come at a more affordable price. According to anecdotal evidence reported by JCK, the turnaround seems to have begun roughly two years ago.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

Morgan Stanley estimates that by 2020, lab-grown diamonds could account for 15% of sales of gem-quality melee diamonds (defined as less than half a carat in rough form) and 7.5% of sales of larger diamonds. Paul Zimnisky Diamond Analytics projects the lab-created diamond jewelry market will grow to $15 billion by 2035.

If you need further convincing, consider the degree to which the walls separating the mined-diamond community and labgrown have fallen—to wit, De Beers’ foray into the lab-grown market with its wholly owned subsidiary Lightbox, which debuted at JCK Las Vegas in May 2018. Of course, the company had a huge leg up in the category: Element Six, De Beers’

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SM

Laboratory-Grown Diamond Price IndexSM

By LGD Exchange and GemGuide 4th Quarter 2019—October-December

.25-.49

Clean (IF-VVS)

Near Clean (VS)

Slightly Included (SI)

Included (I1-I2)

Colorless (D-F)

800-2,500

650-2,000

625-1,500

600-1,200

Near Colorless (G-J)

625-2,200

575-1,600

550-1,300

500-800

Faint (K-M)

550-1,200

500-1,100

450-800

400-600

Clean (IF-VVS)

Near Clean (VS)

Slightly Included (SI)

Included (I1-I2)

1,175-3,000

1,050-2,250

925-1,950

800-1,300

Near Colorless (G-J)

900-2,400

800-1,900

750-1,475

700-1,100

Faint (K-M)

750-1,350

650-1,200

550-900

500-700

Clean (IF-VVS)

Near Clean (VS)

Slightly Included (SI)

Included (I1-I2)

Colorless (D-F)

2,175-3,700

1,700-2,650

1,175-2,250

850-1,375

Near Colorless (G-J)

1,375-2,650

1,100-2,200

1,175-1,950

700-1,225

Faint (K-M)

1,100-1,625

900-1,350

775-1,175

650-900

1.00-1.49

Clean (IF-VVS)

Near Clean (VS)

Slightly Included (SI)

Included (I1-I2)

Colorless (D-F)

2,750-4,175

2,450-3,850

1,775-2,750

1,100-1,575

Near Colorless (G-J)

1,875-2,850

1,650-2,625

1,325-2,625

900-1,350

Faint (K-M)

1,250-1,800

950-1,450

875-1,350

775-1,100

1.50-1.99

Clean (IF-VVS)

Near Clean (VS)

Slightly Included (SI)

Included (I1-I2)

Colorless (D-F)

4,175-5,400

2,750-4,375

2,175-3,325

1,200-1,950

Near Colorless (G-J)

2,525-4,075

1,750-3,800

1,575-3,175

1,000-1,475

Faint (K-M)

1,600-2,075

1,450-1,950

1,150-1,700

900-1,250

.50-.69 Colorless (D-F)

.70-.99

Prices shown are for round only, excellent cut. Other shapes may vary slightly in price. There are many manufacturers of Laboratory-Grown Diamonds and prices can vary greatly from this list.

This price list is prepared independently by the LGD Exchange and the GemGuide. The LGD Exchange is a buy/sell platform for in-trade only. None of the diamonds listed are owned, bought, or sold by the exchange. The GemGuide is published by Gemworld International and is independent and does not buy or sell gems, only conducts research and pricing. www.lgdex.org

www.gemguide.com

LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS 88

1 ct. cushion-cut white lab-grown diamond pendant in sterling silver; $900; Lightbox; 866-657-7622; lightboxjewelry.com

The Lightbox pop-up at Aventura Mall in Miami

synthetic-producing subsidiary, has been turning out lab-grown diamond discs for the manufacturing sector for the past 30 years, and has mastered the process of growing gemstones.

“We did a lot of analysis before we launched this,” says Steve Coe, CEO of Lightbox. “The company took the view, like any new technology, once it’s been developed, you can’t put it back in its box.”

Lightbox has since hosted retail pop-ups in New York City, Miami, and Los Angeles and is considering a permanent retail venture. In ­mid-October, the brand announced a brick-and-mortar wholesale trial with select Bloomingdale’s and Reeds Jewelers locations. While news like this clearly suggests there’s momentum behind the lab-grown business, statistics are not yet available to quantify how many stores are exploring the category.

“No one has a supportable handle on the number of retailers currently carrying lab-grown diamonds,” says Chris Casey, president of the New York City–based Lab-Grown Diamond Council. “We will be looking to provide this information in the first quarter of 2020 but anything prior to that is just a guess.”

JCK wanted to know more: How are lab-grown diamonds affecting ­jewelers around the country, how are they influencing mined-diamond business, and how are consumers responding?

Devon Bond, co-owner of Garrick Jewelers in Hanover, Pa., has been selling lab-grown diamonds for about three years. He began purchasing Diamond Foundry lab-grown gems—Leonardo DiCaprio is an investor—in 2016, around the time the brand began laser-inscribing its product.

“We felt it was better to be the first jewelry store in our area to offer and explain lab-grown diamonds rather than keep our heads in the sand and ignore them,” Bond says.

The store initially began carrying 0.5 ct. to 1.25 ct. stones; they saw about one or two sales of lab-grown diamonds per month. Today, the store sells two to four lab-grown diamonds per month outside of the holiday season. “This year, we are expanding into a complete bridal and fashion line in 14 karat gold with lab-grown diamonds,” Bond says.

Surprisingly, sales of lab-grown diamonds at Garrick have not affected NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

CLAIMS OF RESPONSIBILITY WILL “SUSTAINABLY GROWN DIAMONDS” BE THE INDUSTRY’S NEXT BIG THING?

BY ROB BATES After the Federal Trade Commission warned lab-grown companies not to call themselves eco-friendly or sustainable, many moved away from those claims.

But the newly formed Lab-Grown Diamond Council has enlisted SCS Global Services, the certification company that has worked for the Responsible Jewellery Council and Brilliant Earth, to develop a standard that will allow certain lab-grown diamonds to be called “sustainably grown.”

The standard will have three pillars: environmental impact, social responsibility, and community benefit, says Stanley Mathuram, vice president of corporate sales at SCS. The environmental standard will require companies to begin making their operations carbon neutral, and to account for the ecological impact of any mined materials used in the diamond growing process. The social responsibility standard will audit the company’s factories and cutters and measure their wages, working conditions, and whether they have or allow collective bargaining. The third pillar ensures that a company is incorporating some form of community benefit into its business model. “Sustainability means nothing if a company just does what’s needed,” Mathuram says. “It is more than just carbon.”

Furthermore, every “sustainably grown diamond” would have to be tracked through the supply chain, from the factory to the retailer. This won’t be easy, Mathuram admits, and he has gotten some pushback from growers, who up until now have been making these claims without any problems. But he feels it’s necessary in the new environment.

“None of the current [eco-friendly] claims are substantiated,” Mathuram says. “The FTC is being listened to by all the growers. It’s not the Wild West and the consumer is getting smarter, and they understand that environmental issues are a big deal, social issues are a big deal, climate issues are a big, big deal. It goes back to: We can’t just keep saying what we want anymore.”

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sales of the store’s mined diamonds. “Most customers come in wanting mined diamonds,” Bond says. “We offer [lab-grown] as an alternative and allow our customer to decide. Sometimes the customer has a budget that will not allow them to purchase a mined diamond of the size and quality they want, and they will gladly explore lab-grown.”

Bond says his biggest fear is that lab-grown diamonds will be misrepresented.

That would be commensurate with financial suicide. “I think the more we know and accept them, the safer you are.”

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COMMITTED TO THE CAUSE Amanda Brotman, owner of Amanda Pearl in New York City, is one of the more recent converts, having made the switch to exclusively selling lab-grown diamonds in her designs and in her store earlier this year. As a retailer and designer, she believes in the product’s ethical message. “There’s a huge market for it,” she says. “From an environmental and social standpoint, it just makes sense. Doing something positive is a huge selling point. And I feel good we’re not supporting terrorism or slave labor.… We’re all in.”

For the holidays, Brotman says she will treat her lab-grown diamonds much as she sold mined diamonds in the past. She will create a “normal” marketing push, including promoting the lab-grown diamonds as a giftable item.

If there’s been any pushback from consumers regarding her switch to labgrown, Brotman is not aware of it. “If anything, people get excited about them,” she says. “Our customer is pretty well-informed and someone who cares about these diamonds being traceable. They know for certain that they’re not supporting anything bad.”

ON DEMAND Even established jewelers, some of whom have been in operation for dozens of years, are embracing lab-grown diamonds. Roz Gordon, co-owner of Gordon Jewelers in Boonville, Mo., has carried New York City–based ALTR Created Diamonds since 2017. “Well, we have to keep up with technology,” says the ­retailer, who made the decision after watching the evolution of lab-grown ­colored stones over the years. “We have mined diamonds alongside lab-grown, and we disclose it up front.”

Gordon says it’s wrong to believe that lab-grown diamonds are for millennials or exclusively for a younger customer. “I sold a lab-grown diamond to a gal in her upper 50s,” she says, adding that the store has seen more growth with lab-grown diamonds than with lab-grown colored stones. “We sell to all ages. It comes down to what their beliefs are. Do they want diamonds grown in the earth or grown in the lab?”

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

Although her store offers jewelry ranging from $100 to $10,000, Gordon will not be positioning the lab-grown diamonds as stocking stuffers for the holidays.

Her rural farming community recently experienced a rash of floods, and she fears she would offend people by offering them on the cheap. Still, Gordon is optimistic that the lab-grown stones will do well this holiday and into 2020.

A number of retailers are entering the lab-grown arena in response to customer demand. Designer John Atencio, owner of seven jewelry stores in Colorado, says his company has always been dedicated to mined diamonds but heeded the call of consumers about two years ago. “As our customers were asking for more, and in some cases were going to buy solely lab-grown diamonds, we made the decision to start sourcing and selling those types of stones,” Atencio says.

Within the last few years, Atencio has seen the market change drastically; his stores now carry several lab-grown brands, including Diamond Foundry.

The retailer currently offers lab-created diamonds for bridal and diamond rings but made the decision not to introduce the stones into his own eponymous jewelry collection. “Customers seem split and very well-educated in the choices they have,” Atencio says. “Both types of stones—mined and lab-grown—are very relevant, and we are happy to serve and sell each type with full disclosure, confidence, and integrity.”

Like other retailers, Atencio believes strongly in full transparency, both between lab-grown manufacturers and retailers and between retailers and their customers. If the rest of the industry can be counted on to do the same, he’s convinced there is very little getting in the way of this burgeoning market.

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by Rob Bates NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

N 2018, THE Federal Trade Commission (FTC) concluded a major overhaul of its Jewelry Guides, including its recommendations on lab-grown diamonds.

Many in the lab-grown community, with some validity, hailed the changes as a major victory.

And yet, in the months since, some have gotten “creative” with their interpretations of the new Guides, says Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) president and CEO Tiffany Stevens. A year after the overhaul, the FTC sent eight companies that sell lab-grown diamonds and diamond simulants letters about their marketing, warning their advertisements could possibly “deceive” consumers.

Which is why it’s important to review what the FTC Guides do—and don’t—say:

DISCLOSURE IS STILL REQUIRED. In perhaps the most commented-upon change, the FTC removed the word natural from the definition of a diamond. “It is no longer accurate to define diamonds as ‘natural’ when it is now possible to create products that have essentially the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as mined diamonds,” the FTC wrote, explaining the change.

That has led some to insist that the FTC has declared “a diamond is a diamond.”

While that’s a possible interpretation of the change, the commission never used that particular wording. Under the new FTC Guides—just like the old ones—the unadorned word diamond can still refer only to a natural, mined gem. That means disclosure remains a requirement for non-natural diamonds.

“Marketers still need to make those disclosures [if they are not selling] a mined diamond,” says Reenah L. Kim, staff attorney for the FTC’s enforcement division, who worked on the revamp. Furthermore, the disclosures need to be clear and conspicuous—and the closer the disclosure comes to the claim, the better.

“Some advertisers reveal the true nature of their products behind vague hyperlinks, in an FAQ section, or on an ­‘education’ page,” wrote the FTC in a June blog post. “That won’t do. Consumers could easily overlook the information JCKONLINE.COM

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LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS 94

SIMULANTS ARE DIFFERENT FROM LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS.

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because it’s not close to the product description.”

Marketers even have to be careful on social media. If the only descriptor comes in a hashtag (#labgrown), that could be misleading, the FTC says.

THE FTC RECOMMENDS THREE DESCRIPTORS FOR LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS. So how should companies describe lab-grown diamonds? The FTC recommends the terms ­laboratory-grown, laboratory-created, and [manufacturer name]-created. It has okayed use of the word cultured, but manufacturers need to use other descriptive or qualifying language.

The term synthetic was once on that list of recommendations, but it was removed with this revision. However, contrary to some assertions, synthetic hasn’t been prohibited; some labgrown companies currently use it in their marketing.

The new guides do give marketers leeway to use other descriptors “if they clearly and conspicuously convey that the product is not a mined stone.” But that doesn’t mean marketers can call their diamonds whatever they want. For instance, in the warning letters it sent out in June, the FTC cautioned against using the descriptors aboveground and real diamonds created in America, which it felt “[do] not clearly and conspicuously disclose that the diamonds are laboratory-created.”

“As a federal agency, [the FTC is] always balancing consumer protection against free speech,” Stevens said on “The Jewelry District,” JCK ’s podcast. “They wanted to give a little more of that free speech breathing room. Their line of thinking is, ‘Let’s open this up. And if anyone steps over the line, we’ll slap them down.’ Which they did.”

Stevens thinks the safest bet is that companies stick to the three recommended descriptors. “That fourth category is a little unknown,” she says.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

The FTC—as well as the world of gemology—has always been clear that a simulant, or simulated diamond, may look like a real gemstone but has a different chemical composition.

Moissanite, cubic zirconia, and YAG are examples of simulants. Partial-diamond hybrids are also considered simulants.

A lab-grown diamond is chemically the same as a natural diamond, but it’s grown by a machine rather than beneath the surface of the earth.

In its warning letters, the FTC charged that some marketers were deliberately fudging the difference between the two.

It warned companies to “avoid describing [simulants] in a way that may falsely imply that they have the same optical, physical, and chemical properties of mined diamonds.”

Among the descriptors the FTC singled out in its warning letters: lab-created DiamondAura and contemporary Nexus diamond. It has said that the terms lab-created and lab-grown should be used only for products that have “essentially the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as the stone named.”

For simulants, it recommends the terms ­imitation or simulated.

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Another common misconception is that the FTC is not allowing mined diamonds to be called natural or real. Those terms are still allowed, but only for diamonds that come from the earth.

The FTC did, however, warn that those terms can’t be used in a misleading context. “It would be deceptive to use the terms real, genuine, natural, or synthetic to imply that a lab-grown diamond (i.e., a ­product with essentially the same optical, ­physical, and chemical properties as a mined ­diamond) is not, in fact, an actual diamond,” it wrote.

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The FTC’s Green Guides have long warned against what it calls “general environmental benefit” claims, like eco-friendly and sustainable.

“The concern about general environmental benefit claims is that they are susceptible to all sorts of interpretations,” says FTC attorney Robert M. Frisby. “It is rare that a ­product can have an environmental benefit in all the ways that consumers might take away from a general claim.”

The FTC says that marketers must have a “reasonable basis” for any eco-claim they make. If a retailer talks about a diamond’s eco footprint, and it lacks data on that footprint—and the fact is, many retailers don’t even know where their stones are produced—that may be considered a misleading claim.

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PENDANTS 9. Diama Signature necklace in 18k responsibly sourced white gold with 1.06 cts. t.w. Swarovski created diamonds; $2,990; Atelier Swarovski Fine Jewelry; 401-400-6233; atelierswarovski.com 10. 14k yellow gold 0.25 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamond French-set bar necklace; $645; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com 11. 1.25 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamond cushion halo with round center pendant; $4,200; Love Earth; loveearthsales@fgoldman.com; loveearthjewelry.com

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LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS 102

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Overnight has the largest selection of jewelry that can be ordered complete with lab-grown diamonds! With over 50,000 styles available, Overnight is the No. 1 leader in lab-grown diamond jewelry.

Atelier Swarovski fine jewelry collections represent refined elegance and Conscious Luxury. The collections embody a new spirit of design, compassion, and sustainability featuring Swarovski Created Diamonds, created gemstones, and genuine gemstones and gold.

DiamSpark Lab Grown Diamonds

Smiling Rocks Inc.

54 W. 47th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-221-4400 Fax: 212-221-4401 Email: labgrown@diamspark.com Website: diamspark.com DiamSpark is a family-run company with a long-standing history in the diamond trade, going back three generations. We deal in HPHT/CVD polished diamonds, manufactured in a world-class facility equipped with the most advanced technology.

22 W. 48th St., Suite 805 New York, NY 10028 Tel: 646-452-7046 m Email: info@smilingrocks.com Website: smilingrocks.com b d d and d jewelry l Smiling Rocks is a high-end laboratory-grown diamonds brand with a philanthropic approach, donating 10% of each purchase to four charity sectors. We offer beautiful everyday essentials and fashion-forward collections, some with color diamonds, in 10k, 14k, and 18k white, rose, and yellow gold.

Stuller Inc. Lab Grown Source 21 Drydock Ave., Suite 610E Boston, MA 02210 Tel: 801-357-9151 Email: jerry@labgrownsource.com jerry@labgrownsour Website: labgrownsource.com Lab Grown Source is free to join and is the largest trading platform for lab-grown diamonds. Search and sort through over 17,000 grown diamonds from the best suppliers around the world.

JCKONLINE.COM

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Stuller metals are SCS-certified for 100% recycled product. We also have the coveted Responsible Jewellery Council certification. And we back our metals with fast, reliable service to help you succeed. Visit stuller.com/metals.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2019

AÄłordable Luxury Featuring Lab-Grown Diamonds

Call +1 646-452-7046 I Email: Info@smilingrocks.com www.smilingrocks.com