JCK May 2019 Issue

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

150TH ANNIVERSARY MAY 2019

JCKONLINE.COM

STONE AGE

H O W T O TA P I N T O T H E C R Y S T A L -­F U E L E D WELLNESS CRAZE

SHOP ’TIL YOU DROP

PREP FOR VEGAS WITH O U R 5 M U S T- H A V E PIECES (LET’S HEAR IT FOR BIG EARRINGS!)

FALL PLAY RUNWAY-READY LOOKS THAT DON’T SKIMP ON STYLE—AND WON’T BLOW YOUR BUDGET

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G2G

Nothing moves like gold.

GOT TO GOLD! Fashion is fickle, gold is forever.

Like fashion, your gold customer is changing.

We get that.

Only Royal Chain creates gold jewelry for every customer who walks through your door.

Discover it on: ROYALCHAIN.COM 800 622 0960

JCK Las Vegas Booth 7109

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

150TH ANNIVERSARY MAY 2019

JCKONLINE.COM

GREEN HOOK

SUSTAINABLY SOURCED, RESPONSIBLY MINED JEWELS TO RAISE YOUR SHOPPERS’ ECO-CONSCIOUSNESS

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Design and Photo © 2019 Le Vian Corp. All Rights Reserved.

¨ AQUAMERMAID COLLECTIONª

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R E A DY-T O - W E A R C O L L E C T I O N

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THE ART OF SELF EXPRESSION. Our art-driven jewelry helps a woman beautifully express her many passions and experiences. Each piece is a seamless marriage of original art, 22k gold leaf and enamel.

Handmade in the USA.

I N F O @ E V O C AT E U R S T Y L E . C O M

E V O C AT E U R S T Y L E . C O M

S E E U S AT J C K L A S V E G A S , B O O T H 1 8 1 3 1

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JCK LAS VEGAS Events | Opportunities | Promotions | Special Advertising Section

JCK Show & Tell

Are You Ready for JCK Las Vegas 2019?

J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 1 9 I S R A P I D LY A P P R O A C H I N G , I T ’ S T I M E T O S TA R T P L A N N I N G F O R T H E S H O W ! C H E C K O U T W H AT ’ S N E W A N D N E X T T H I S Y E A R A N D H O W Y O U C A N P R E PA R E F O R A S U C C E S S F U L A N D P R O D U C T I V E S H O W.

Discovering New @ JCK T h e # 1 r e a s o n t o a t t e n d J C K ? S e e w h a t ’ s n e w a n d n e x t ! To m a k e i t e a s i e r t h a n ever to discover new product launches, we’re introducing the Discovering New @ JCK digital lookbook.

Exhibitors are sharing their never-before-seen products with us to feature in the lookbook—organized by JCK neighborhood—to help you locate the products and services you’re most interested in. Make sure y o u ’ r e r e g i s t e r e d — t h i s i s o n l y a v a i l a b l e a t t h e s h o w.

LOOK

While exploring the book, scan exhibitor QR codes to obtain more information in the JCK Mobile App. Plus, keep track of visits and utilize the enhanced GPS navigation and personalized vendor suggestions through JCK Match.

LEARN MORE HERE: JCKLASVEGAS2019.COM/DISCOVERINGNEW

Book Your Hotel S t a y o n p r o p e r t y — b o o k y o u r r o o m t o d a y a t T h e Ve n e t i a n & P a l a z z o h o t e l s .

Not only will you experience the convenience of a short walk to JCK, you’ll a l s o b e i m m e r s e d i n a l l o f t h e n e t w o r k i n g t h a t ’ s d o n e o f f t h e s h o w f l o o r.

Experience unmatched dining, entertainment and shopping at the preferred location of exhibitors and attendees — you never know who you’ll run into!

M a k e T h e Ve n e t i a n R e s o r t y o u r h o m e a w a y f r o m h o m e d u r i n g t h e s h o w .

B O O K H E R E T O D AY: J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 1 9 . C O M / B O O K H O T E L

Greek Jewels @ JCK & Luxury W h e n y o u t h i n k “ G r e e k j e w e l r y,” w h a t c o m e s t o m i n d ? A n c i e n t t e c h n i q u e ; r i c h , g o l d e n p i e c e s ; h a n d - f o r g e d d e t a i l s ? Yo u ’ v e g o t t h e r i g h t i d e a . B u t t h i s y e a r

HONOR OMANO LUXURY, BOOTH #LUX30083F

ANOMY JCK, BOOTH #46058

a t J C K L a s Ve g a s a n d L u x u r y b y J C K , a c o l l e c t i v e o f G r e e k j e w e l r y d e s i g n e r s promises to broaden your concept of Greek design by introducing you to unexpected talent and creations.

F o r t h e s e c o n d c o n s e c u t i v e y e a r, g u e s t s o f J C K L a s Ve g a s a n d L u x u r y b y JCK will get to experience the memorable convergence of tradition with new p e r s p e c t i v e s — “ W h e r e C l a s s i c D e s i g n M e e t s M o d e r n D e s i r e ,” t o b o r r o w t h e

FRANGOS JEWELRY JCK, BOOTH #45057

exhibit’s catchphrase. With the support of Enterprise Greece, this coalition of

SAMOLI

creators is poised to delight viewers through the art of Greek jewelry design.

LUXURY, BOOTH #LUX30083A

JCK Mobile App Sponsored by:

F o r 2 0 1 9, e n h a n c e d b o o t h - t o - b o o t h G P S n a v i g a t i o n i s a v a i l a b l e i n t h e J C K M o b i l e A p p, making it easier for you to find your way to specific booths. With exhibitor QR codes on the s h o w f l o o r, s c a n u s i n g y o u r p h o n e t o q u i c k l y g e t m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n . S a v e c o m p a n i e s y o u a r e interested in to easily refer back to later on! The JCK Mobile App also offers Ask Bling for ondemand digital support for any questions you may have.

Advertisement

ICA Pavilion at JCK Las Vegas New global gemstone exhibition will showcase ICA members introducing to the US market some of the most respected colored gemstone suppliers from around the world.

JCK Las Vegas Sands Expo & Convention Center The International Non-Profit Organization Serving the Colored Gemstone Industry

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Silver Jewelry $500 & Under Gabriel & Co. CURRENTS 14109

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Diamond Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Dinaro Creations

Tanzanite Jewelry $10,000 & Under Parlé Jewelry Designs LUX30087

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Mixed Metal Jewelry $1,000 & Under Lika Behar LUXP30067

Mixed Metal Jewelry Over $1,000 Lika Behar LUXP30067

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2019 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS FIRST PLACE WINNERS! Be sure to visit all the winners at this year’s JCK Las Vegas show.

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry $500 & Under

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Best Necklace Design $2,500 & Under

Belle Étoile

Rahaminov Diamonds

Parlé Jewelry Designs

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Joden World Resources

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Royal Chain Group

Beverley K

Noam Carver for CrownRing Bridal House

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Best Bridal Design $2,501–$5,000

William Henry

Parlé Jewelry Designs

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Best Price Point $1000 & Under Neon Gems, Inc. LUX344

Best Ring Design $2,501–$10,000

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CKC Sons

Best Bridal Design Over $5,000 Marisa Perry Atelier

FreyWille LUX32077

Best Statement Piece $10,000–$30,000 Best Earring Design $2,500 & Under Alamea Hawaii LLC

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Grace Hays & Robert Russell

Joden World Resources

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Best Statement Piece Over $30,000 Best Earring Design $2,501–$10,000 Shy Creation LUX1227

Norman Silverman LUX123

PROTECT YOUR STORE FROM CRIME JOIN THE JEWELERS SECURITY ALLIANCE

“Smash and grab robberies…A troubling trend that began in the Midwest has now spread to other areas of the country.”

Rob Bates, “Smash-and-Grab Robberies Erupt in the Industry”, JCKonline.com, February 26, 2018

Visit JSA at www.jewelerssecurity.org or contact JSA via jsa2@jewelerssecurity.org or 212-687-0328.

BENEFITS OF JOINING THE JSA:

Weekly Email Crime Alerts on criminals and scams

A free copy of the JSA’s Manual of Jewelry Security

Unlimited expert telephone advice on security issues

To learn more about how to protect your store and the Jewelers Security Alliance, visit the JSA Security Pavilion at JCK Las Vegas and Booth 59119.

Talk to security exhibitors who can provide the latest solutions to protect your jewelry business from burglary, robbery and theft.

JCK LAS VEGAS 2019 The Sands Expo & The Venetian, Las Vegas, NV May 31–June 3, 2019 jckonline.com/lasvegas

Rewards offered if your firm suffers a criminal loss

Support of JSA’s work with the FBI and local police

CONTENTS

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110

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

THE HIGH-LOW COUNTRY Dazzling diamonds ­harmonize with sparkling CZ, while high-karat gold mingles with gleaming plated brass. Mixing fine and fashion jewelry has never been so simple—or so chic.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON KIM

FEATURES 118

RELIABLE SOURCES These designers care not only about their jewelry’s look, but also about where it came from, how it’s made, and what it ­supports.

BY STEPHANIE VOZZA PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS

126

FALL FASHION FAVES Break out the chains and pump up the gems: Bigger is ­better when it comes to next season’s jewelry trends.

126

132

ROCK THERAPY How to incorporate the gem-based wellness trend into your retail jewelry business

BY MARTHA C. WHITE

142 MAY 2019

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136

PHOTOGRAPH BY JASON KIM; RUNWAY: JONAS GUSTAVSSON/SIPA USA/SIPA VIA AP IMAGES; RING: JOEL STANS

BY VENESSA LAU

4/10/19 2:52 PM

To j o i n t h e c a m p a i g n , p l e a s e v i s i t w w w. d i a m o n d p r o d u c e r s . c o m

CONTENTS

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JCKONLINE.COM

FEATURES 134

FAST FOOD POINTS How a Tennessee jewelry store found inspiration and ideas for improvement from a surprising source

134

BY DANIEL P. SMITH

136

PARTY OF FIVE Solitaires, sapphires, and ­statement earrings top jewelers’ Vegas shopping lists. Plus: Prepare for a chain reaction, and get ready to drop some serious coin.

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

142

150 YEARS, 150 VOICES: PART 3

BY BRITTANY SIMINITZ

SPECIAL REPORT: PEARLS 153 A complete A-to-Z

glossary; our Favourite movie and TV moments; and five breakthrough pearl designers

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153

FLOWER: PHOTOGRAPH BY JOEL STANS; MODEL: GAVIN O’NEILL; PAVÉ DIAMOND DOUBLE MOONSTONE TEARDROP AND AQUAMARINE BAR HOOPS, $3,750, JACQUIE AICHE, 310-550-7529 EXT. 101, JACQUIEAICHE.COM

118

To celebrate JCK ’s 150th ­anniversary, we asked 150 ­industry insiders to talk about how the jewelry business has changed over the decades, and the role we have played in that evolution.

MAY 2019

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CONTENTS

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JCKONLINE.COM

DEPARTMENTS JEWEL BOX

5 things rocking the industry

212

40 FROM THE EDITOR 42 STAFF PICKS 44 FROM THE PUBLISHER 58 JCK INSIDER 60 JCKONLINE 63 NEWS GEMS

Samuels Jewelers shutters after 128 years.

GEM PRICING REPORT

68 70 THE CALENDAR

Industry shows, May 1–June 4, 2019

87

73 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER

Veeral Rathod of Spence Diamonds 76 RETAIL THERAPY

What jewelry trends are you investing in this year?

78 CAUSES TO CELEBRATE 80 STORE WE ADORE

Riveter in Nashville

87 THE LOOK 88 RED CARPET 98 DESIGNER SHOWCASE

73

Sisters Lizzie and Kathryn Fortunato

104 JCK ASKS...

Petra Class

Inside Luxury. Plus: wrapping up March’s Hong Kong show.

147 THE VAULT 148 GOLD 150 DIAMONDS 152 COLORED STONES 183 SHOW BIZ 187 TOOL TIME

Easy ways to communicate with customers on social media

212 THE WAY WE WERE

MAY 2019

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Cover stories from 150 years of JCK

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NICK McGINN

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Cover Look

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Plaza ring in 22k yellow gold– plated brass with 15 ct. citrine; $250; Dean Davidson; 647-793-4818; deandavidson.ca

JCKONLINE.COM

Tutty Frutty bracelet in 14k yellow gold– plated brass with amethyst, fluorite, chalcedony, and keshi pearls; $660; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com

Daily Chic earrings in 14k yellow gold with 62 cts. t.w. morganite; $2,100; Evanueva; 646-5918470; evanueva.it

Cable link necklace in hand-swirled acetate; $285; Lele Sadoughi; 212-228-8422; lelesadoughi.com

FALL PLAY Runway-ready looks that don’t skimp on style— and won’t blow your budget

Medium oval Monolith ring in 14k fair-mined yellow gold with 1 ct. white diamond; $4,235; Wwake; wholesale@wwake. com; wwake.com

GREEN HOOK

Sustainably sourced, ­responsibly mined jewels to raise your shoppers’ ­eco-consciousness

(TOP) COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON KIM Hair: NICHOLAS ELDIN/ART DEPARTMENT; Makeup: MISHA SHAHZADA/FORWARD ARTISTS; Stylist: DANIEL EDLEY/BRYDGES MACKINNEY; Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON USING CHANEL FOR ART DEPARTMENT; Model: DASHA MALENTINA/THE LIONS (ABOVE) PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS Prop Stylist: ALEX BRANNIAN/ART DEPARTMENT MAY 2019

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MAY 2019

the industry authority

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box

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DIAMONDS 1

RETAIL Hudson Yards, New York City’s highly anticipated $25 billion residential and commercial development, opened on Manhattan’s West Side in mid-March. The mega-project, spearheaded by real estate firm Related Companies, boasts 4,000 luxury residential units, several ­superstar-chef restaurants, a performing arts venue, a planned green space, and 720,000 square feet of retail that features boutiques from some of the most illustrious names in jewelry and watches: Cartier, Forty Five Ten, ­Pandora, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Rolex, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, and Watches of Switzerland—not to mention a three-level, 188,000-squarefoot Neiman Marcus, the Dallas-based retailer’s first-ever space in NYC.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ newest high jewelry collection, Folie des Pres, debuted at the Hudson Yards opening.

LOPEZ: MEGA/NEWSCOM (2)

Last year, Apple’s Jony Ive and industrial designer Marc Newson fashioned a ring out of material grown by Diamond Foundry that was later auctioned by Sotheby’s for $256,250. While the ring is being cut and polished to fit the winner’s finger, Dutch ­Diamond Technologies has created, arguably, a more impressive version of the same concept, which has already been graded by Belgium lab HRD. The 3.9 ct. creation, laden with 133 facets, is very comfortable, ­according to HRD’s Katrien De Corte: “You forget it’s on.”

JCKONLINE.COM

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SHOWS

Ref. 5520P Alarm Travel Time grand complication in 42.2 mm platinum case; $226,805; Patek Philippe; 212-2181240; patek.com

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Will Baselworld survive without the Swatch Group’s brands (and the hundreds of others who have defected)? That was the question hanging in the air before this year’s show in late March. Though radically smaller than years past—down to 520 exhibitors, from some 1,500 in 2016—Baselworld has a cautiously optimistic new management team with plans to transform the buying fair into an interactive event that lures consumers and lowers pricing for participating brands. And, for the watch crowd, there are still plenty of trendspotting opportunities. This time around, green watches and steel sports models were the must-haves. If it can retain marquee brands Patek Philippe and Rolex, which rumors suggest it is likely to do, Baselworld’s future may, indeed, be bright.

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CELEBRITIES

TECHNOLOGY

It’s one thing to let customers try on items, at least in regular reality. But Helzberg Diamonds’ seven next-generation stores use augmented reality to allow customers to virtually sport more than 100 designs. The “virtual ring experience” works like this: The customer chooses a style, slides his or her hand under a table mounted with a double-sided tablet, and voila, the ring appears on the hand—or at least it looks like it does. The ­custom-built technology can even determine ring size.

When baseball legend Alex Rodriguez proposed to his sweetheart, superstar ­Jennifer Lopez, on a beach in the Bahamas in midMarch, the high-profile couple shared their joy with their combined 90 million–plus followers on Instagram via photos of the actual proposal and—­drumroll, please— the truly gargantuan diamond ring A-Rod slipped on J-Lo’s finger. (The emerald-cut diamond design—so huge that it blankets much of Lopez’s finger—is ­reportedly worth $1.8 million.) Rodriguez was mum about who made the ring but said he bought the diamond “overseas.”

Jewelry watchers have remarked that J-Lo’s emeraldcut-and-baguette ring resembles Grace Kelly’s.

MAY 2019

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from the editor

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This $16,400 18k gold joint pendant from L.A.’s Sapphire Collective gives new meaning to the term high style!

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com MAY 2019

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AFTER TAKING THE first couple months of 2019 off to care for my newborn son, Niko (who arrived the day before Thanksgiving), I’m thrilled to be back at JCK for this all-important pre-show issue. There is no end to my appreciation for managing editor Melissa Bernardo, who covered for me while I was away, with the help of seasoned magazine editor Kathy ­Henderson. The flawless March–April issue that hit your mailbox about a month ago is proof of how beautifully they work together.

Speaking of perfect pairings, you won’t find a better combination of fine and fashion jewels than the baubles that adorn our impeccably on-trend cover model in “The High-Low Country” on page 110. Once you see how chic she looks in stacks of bangles—some ­precious, some plated—you’ll no longer ­question the urge to mix faux and fine.

Longtime contributor Venessa Lau’s engaging “Fall Fashion Faves,” on page 126, offers an astute analysis of the trends that fuel this mixing. “As much as fashion aches for the shock of the new and novel, there’s a savvy in embracing the familiar,” she writes. “And for the fall 2019 shows, many of the best collections—and trends—did just that: return to what we know, with subtle subversion.”

Our reporting from the jewelry retail trenches suggests Lau’s predictions are on point. In “Party of Five” (page 136),

­contributor Kristin Young singles out the five styles that buyers headed to JCK Las Vegas are coveting, and—wouldn’t you know it—oldbut-new-again chain-link styles top the list.

Elsewhere, we examine the jewelry trade’s growing devotion to all things earthy. That includes a burgeoning retail boom in crystal and wellness products (see “Rock Therapy”

by Martha C. White on page 132), as well as the sudden ubiquity of the cannabis-leaf motif (check out The Look opener on page 87).

Even more important is the widening conviction that a jewel’s journey to market— how it was made, and who benefits from its sale—is as important as its looks. On this note, ­“Reliable Sources” (page 118) is a must-read.

With photography by the talented Joel Stans, jewelry curation by JCK ’s trusted market editor, Rima Suqi, and an incisive companion piece by Stephanie Vozza, the feature on ethical and sustainable jewelry practices is JCK at its finest: timely, well-informed, and gorgeous.

Finally, don’t miss the third installment of our year-long “150 Years, 150 Voices” series (page 142), marking the magazine’s sesquicentennial.

JCK contributing editor Brittany Siminitz spoke to 25 industry heavy-hitters about the magazine and the jewelry biz in general. Provocative, thoughtful, and often hilarious, their comments are a mini master class in the history of the American trade. Sign me up!

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

’m baaack!

JCKONLINE.COM

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GABRIELN Y.COM JCK #S14109

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MAY 2019

the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS

Earrings with 19 cts. t.w. rose-cut diamonds in 18k gold; $13,100; JS Noor; 562-6764367; jsnoor.com

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1

Oceana necklace with boulder opal and pavé diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $6,500; Brooke Gregson; carly@ brookegregson.com; brookegregson.com

3 Black Goldie ring with rutilated quartz and diamonds in 18k gold and rhodiumplated sterling silver; $1,200; Dana Bronfman; sales@ danabronfman.com; danabronfman.com

Moon in Pink earrings with rainbow moonstones, pink sapphires, and diamonds in rhodium-plated 18k white gold; $198,000; Campbellian Collection; bella@ campbellian.nyc; campbellian.nyc

Cuff with aquamarine crystal and diamonds in palladium and oxidized sterling silver; $7,790; Alishan; lydia@ alishanonline.com; alishanonline.com

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GAME OF STONES

“The designs that stood out to me in Tucson highlighted gems with a lush, organic quality or embraced a vibe of glamorous maximalism.” —Amy Elliott, JCK contributor

What JCK magazine’s AMY ELLIOTT is loving this month

JCKONLINE.COM

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W E L C O M E S YOU TO

Fabulous

JCK Las Vegas

LUX-29091

FROM THE PUBLISHER

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A peek into the archives of the past 150 years of JCK

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com MAY 2019

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WELCOME TO THE annual pre-show issue of JCK ! As always, this spectacular May issue is packed with fantastic editorials, beautiful photography, timely trends and fashions, and plenty of information about next month’s JCK Las Vegas show.

Speaking of JCK, as you undoubtedly know, the show is returning to its original venue, the Sands Expo and Convention Center. While Mandalay Bay once offered a better convention facility (one that has since been matched by the Sands), it’s no secret that the north end of The Strip was less than ideal. We are all excited to once again be located in the heart of The Strip, with hotels, restaurants, and entertainment options that are unmatched anywhere in Vegas (and few places in the world, for that matter).

The move back to the Sands coincides with another epic moment in JCK history: our 150th anniversary! The magazine began in New York City in 1869 as the American Horological Journal, based on Maiden Lane in Manhattan (then the center of both the jewelry and publishing industries). Over time, the book was rechristened The ­Jewelers’ Circular, and in 1935 it merged with The Keystone magazine to become Jewelers’

­Circular-Keystone (and later, simply JCK ).

In 1992, the magazine seized the momentum of bringing conventions traditionally based in New York City and Chicago to Las Vegas, and founded Jewelry ’92 (thankfully renamed JCK Las Vegas the following year).

Since that time, the brand has represented the best-in-class for trade shows and trade publications in the U.S. jewelry industry.

I’ve just seen the graphics we’ve created to celebrate the 150th at the show—look for a ­giant wall display above our newsstand opposite the main entrance of the Sands Expo—and it’s quite thrilling. We’re excited to celebrate all week there.

Throughout this anniversary year, we’ve been featuring print and online interviews with 150 industry leaders on what JCK means to them. If you’ve not caught them, do yourself a favor and check them out (see the third installment of the series on page 142). They are truly fascinating perspectives on our brand and our industry.

I hope you enjoy absorbing the pages of this beautiful issue, and I hope you’re inspired to visit the booths of the wonderful advertisers within. I look forward to seeing you in Vegas!

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

omeward bound!

JCKONLINE.COM

4/10/19 10:52 AM

Visit us at Luxury 28087 213.627.4019 | paradedesign.com

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 150 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

EDITORIAL News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com

U.S. ADVERTISING SALES CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

Senior Editor & Social Media Director / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI

FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHIHART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors BALL & ALBANESE, KEVIN CREMENS, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN, KEN GUTMAKER, ETHAN HILL, NICOLE LaMOTTE, STEPHEN LEWIS, MARK LUND, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, GAVIN O’NEILL, CODY PICKENS, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS, MIKAEL SCHULZ, PATRIC SHAW, JOEL STANS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENJI TOMA, DIEGO UCHITEL, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK

C I R C U L AT I O N Director, PubWorX / WENDY EDELSTEIN Subscriptions and Customer Service 800-305-7759 (North America) 515-247-2984 (other regions)

PUBWORX Operations Director MICHAEL CANDEMERES Operations Account Manager ESTRELLA BIBAS Premedia Specialist VANESSA COPPOLA Digital Imaging Specialists JAIRO CORLETO STEPHANIE KILBURN

PUBLISHED FOR REED EXHIBITIONS BY

VP, Content LIZ BUFFA

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com

VP, Business Development MATT CHERVIN

Marketing Manager / NATALIE CHOMET Account Director / HEATHER BOHL Art Director / ANDY ROSS Production Manager / NESTOR CERVANTES Marketing & Sales Coordinator / KATIE KENNEDY One World Trade Center, Floor 40 New York, NY 10007 For content marketing inquiries, please call 212-286-7330 headline-studio.com headline studio is a division of advance local

/ randy siegel, president

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, Luxury, Swiss Watch, JIS & JCK Tucson) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 / yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com

I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G

Rubellite Pendant & Ring

One of a Kind Collection

Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK • JCK Las Vegas JA NY Select Shows by Centurion Centurion South Beach Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305; cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com

JCK TUCSON

Event Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive NINA MANCINI Bridge, Design Center, Design@Luxury 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com

Event Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@ reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive BARBARA MURRAY Global Gemstones, First Look 203-840-5820 bmurray@reedjewelrygroup.com

Event Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@ reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Antique & Estate, JSA Security, Lab-Grown Diamonds 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedexpo.com

Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedjewelrygroup.com

Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedjewelrygroup.com Special Events and Conference Director KATE (NELLIS) YOUNGSTROM 203-840-5675 kyoungstrom@reedjewelrygroup.com Strategic Accounts Manager JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Luxury 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com International Accounts Manager ALEXANDRA WURSTER Passport, Hong Kong, Germany & International Companies 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, Essentials & Technology, Gallery, Bella Italia, Retail Innovation 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

888.674.8340 info@graymoorlanedesigns.com www.graymoorlanedesigns.com Graymoor Lane Designs is a division of Artistry, Ltd.

THAILAND BUSABA THAWEEPHOON Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7374, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell 66-96-725-1525 busaba.thaw@reedtradex.co.th

CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

J C K L A S V E G A S , L U X U R Y & S W I S S WAT C H

Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedjewelrygroup.com

Cypress Collection

ISRAEL RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive ANA CROSBY Bridal, Currents, Diamond Plaza, Plumb Club 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com

Retailer Account Manager JCK Las Vegas MONALISA DEPINA 203-840-5556 mdepina@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager Luxury ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager JCK Las Vegas SAMANTHA NAGEL 203-840-5917 snagel@reedjewelrygroup.com Marketing Manager / Luxury AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedjewelrygroup.com

Portfolio Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 jfox@reedjewelrygroup.com Sales Manager NINA MANCINI Arizona Ballroom 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive DANIEL EYZAGUIRRE Tucson Ballroom 203-840-5887 deyzaguirre@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com Marketing Manager AMANDA MARINI 203-840-5649 amarini@reedjewelrygroup.com

NEW LOOK | NEW VENUE | NEW EXPERIENCE

Friday, May 31 – Monday, June 3, 2019 P R E M I E R D E S T I N AT I O N TO D I S C O V E R W H AT ’ S N E W AND NEXT IN THE FINE JEWELRY MARKET SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LAS VEGAS R E G I S T E R TO DAY AT J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 1 9. C O M

WEDNESDAY, MAY 29 –

THURSDAY, MAY 30 –

THURSDAY, MAY 30 –

MONDAY, JUNE 3, 2019

MONDAY, JUNE 3, 2019

MONDAY, JUNE 3, 2019

BY INVITATION ONLY MAY 29 – 30

SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LV

SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN, LV

THE VENETIAN, LV

LEVEL 1

LEVEL 3

LEVEL 2

@JCKEVENTS

#JCKLASVEGAS

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

the industry authority

INSIDER

DID YOU KNOW?

The Venetian lobby boasts 25-foot columns made of directfrom-Italy Botticino marble.

JCK LAS VEGAS runs May 31–June 3.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT lasvegas.jckonline.com

LUXURY WATCH

BRIDE & JOY Looking for loose stones in Las Vegas? Don’t miss JCK’s new Global Gemstone neighborhood.

Located on the first floor of the Sands Expo, the section will feature nearly 200 exhibitors—such as Los Angeles’ B & B Fine Gems, purveyor of this 8 ct. lagoon tourmaline, pictured—selling every stone you could imagine (plus a few you couldn’t). For details, visit jckinsider.com.

JCK contributing editor Brittany Siminitz is on the high-end trend watch. One she’s excited to see: casual luxury. These pieces—like this Mars Fine Jewelry ring and Rahaminov hoops—are made to be worn every day, but they don’t skimp on quality or craftsmanship.

For more, see jckinsider.com.

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM. JCKONLINE.COM

THE COLLECTIVE

REIMAGINING THE MARKET WEEK

EXPERIENCE 1 Badge | 1 Hall | 3 Shows Better Price | Exceptional Service Exhibiting Made Simple | Buying Made Simple

May 30 –June 3, 2019 | Las Vegas Convention Center

TheCollectiveLasVegas.com

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

the industry authority

ONLINE

@JCKMagazine JCKmagazine @jckmagazine @jckmagazine

#stacks #stackables

INSTAGEM

FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH In case you don’t get your fill of pearls with our annual spring supplement on page 153, scroll on over to Mikimoto (@official_mikimoto). Prepare for a veritable flood of photos of the historic brand’s lustrous designs, from simple white studs to elaborate creations such as collars, scarves, and crowns.

#stackingrings #stackemup

AGTA Gemfair 2019 Las Vegas Convention Center

BOOTH 1209 K I M B E R LY C O L L I N S G E M S . C O M

@KimberlyCollinsGems

The layered look: akoya cultured and golden South Sea cultured pearl strands, plus a few diamonds

A high jewelry design combining black South Sea cultured pearls and diamond clusters

Golden South Sea cultured pearls nestled in bursts of round, pear-, and marquise-shape diamonds

The super-stylish Riccardo Tortato, men’s fashion director at Tsum Moscow and DLT St. Petersburg

The World of Creativity Splash brooch, with diamonds and 3.75 mm–8.25 mm akoya cultured pearls

Up close and personal with a tanzanite and akoya cultured pearl lace necklace

“What I have seen…is someone touching other people’s jewels. Never do this without permission. Look, compliment, but don’t touch.”

—JCKonline reader leeaundra on “Do You Know Your Jewelry Etiquette?”

JCKONLINE.COM

$6450. $"% %FMJWFSFE JO 8FFLT

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1HOVRQXV FRP ,QIR#QHOVRQXV FRP

63

the industry authority

MAY 2019

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS

OPEN AND SHUT

After 128 years in business, Samuels Jewelers has closed its doors

MICHAEL BERRELL/ISTOCK/GETTY

BY ROB BATES

O

N FEB. 25, Samuels Jewelers, an Austin, Texas–based chain that dates back to 1891, closed all 112 of its stores, six months after filing for Chapter 11 protection. Management had hoped to keep the company alive in a scaled-down form comprising 60 or so stores.

But in mid-February, leading lender Wells Fargo made a credit bid for the remaining assets, including Samuels’ intellectual property and web addresses.

“This effectively [killed] the transaction we were diligently pursuing,” said an internal memo. “This development was unexpected

and tragic, but unfortunately it is our new reality.” In a filing, Wells Fargo said it “had hoped for a positive outcome” but maintained it had seen no bids that secured its claims.

Samuels was formerly known as Barry’s and did business under the names Samuels Diamonds, Rogers Jewelers, Andrews, and Schubach. Its history, while long, has also been troubled; this marks the retailer’s fourth trip to bankruptcy court.

Gitanjali Group purchased the company in 2006. The following year, it scooped up Rogers and merged the two. While Gitanjali,

JCKONLINE.COM

JCK040119_063_NEWSGEMS.indd 63

4/10/19 12:47 PM

NEWS GEMS

THE What’s Clicking on JCKonline

Made in the USA The top stories for March. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline.com/newsletters/subscribe.

based in Mumbai, India, provided Samuels with financial support and low-cost inventory, former executives complained its executives didn’t understand the U.S. market, sometimes saddling it with unsuitable product.

Last February, India’s Central Bureau of Investigation charged Gitanjali and its chairman, Mehul Choksi, with bank fraud, and the one-time giant jewelry retailer effectively ceased to exist. Samuels filed for bankruptcy that August, faced with skittish vendors and the loss of its main benefactor.

On Feb. 20, the court-appointed examiner, John Carney, filed a 134-page report charging that Choksi used Samuels to perpetuate his alleged fraud. The report found that one of the retailer’s top vendors was actually a Choksi shell company, with its listed address doubling as the office of the Michigan psychologist who was ostensibly its owner.

In a statement, Choksi called the examiner’s report “erroneous” and said he is innocent of all charges. “The real tragedy is not mine but rather is that Samuels, a successful company that had no connection to the allegations put forward in India, has been put out of business,” he said.

JCK Las Vegas Booth #11068 Toll Free: 888-430-4344 Mailgpanther@aol.com www.gpanther.com

1

Wempe’s New Engagement Rings Are Winning at Solitaire: Wempe has rolled out a series of engagement rings led by a number of Asscherand emerald-cut solitaire diamond styles.

2

In a First, Tiffany Will Sell Engagement Rings Online: Tiffany & Co. debuted a revamped website, which will do something that the retailer has never done before: sell engagement rings online.

3

Lab-Grown Diamond Detectors Put to the Test: The Diamond Producers Association and Signet Jewelers looked at how well lab-grown diamond detectors actually do what they claim.

4

Moissanite Coated With Diamond Film Spotted

by Lab: A Russian gem lab recently spotted a rough synthetic moissanite coated with a thin diamond film.

5

Patrick Murphy, Owner of 3-Store Jewelry Chain, Dies: The owner of Murphy Jewelers was killed on Feb. 28 while vacationing in New Orleans.

“I came in on a hot August afternoon and…the place just felt like a comfortable tennis shoe when I walked in. I asked [the owner] what he wanted for the place and he told me, and I said, ‘Okay.’

And that was how I got to be here.”

—Charles Stephens, to The Sacramento Bee, on how he became the owner of Randolph Jewelers in Placerville, Calif. The 166-year-old store recently closed.

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

Q&A

65

Alrosa stones at the diamond sorting center

3 Questions for...

REBECCA FOERSTER IN JANUARY, REBECCA Foerster, an industry veteran who has worked for Leo Schachter Diamonds and Rio Tinto, became president of Alrosa USA, the New York City–based arm of the Russian diamond miner. Here, she talks with JCK about her plans. —RB

Not everyone has a positive association with Russia these days.

Do you think that will be an issue?

I don’t see it as an obstacle. I think when people look at diamonds, they look at them as a luxury good—they don’t think about politics at all. It’s

the same as Russian vodka or caviar: It’s known for quality. Russian rough is some of the best rough that has ever been around in the industry. In talking to retailers, in talking to manufacturers that we want to create these programs with, I don’t see it.

DIAMONDS: ALROSA WEBSITE

What do you see as your goals for the office?

We believe there is still a lot of opportunity to generate more awareness about Alrosa. The timing is perfect because the company is so well-positioned to talk about mine of origin, mine-to-market, everything is traceable, everything comes from Russia, and the stories are very relevant for what we see as the point of differentiation for mined diamonds.

There is also a real opportunity to become more aggressive with sales. Last year [the office] had two rough tenders.

This year we’ll have four. They had one polished tender, we’ll have two.

What kind of marketing opportunities do you envision?

The objective is to create strategic partnerships. It could be anything from a retailer coming to us with a great idea to identifying certain diamonds and areas where we think there are interesting stories to tell.

There are some major initiatives in place that I can’t talk about right now but will soon be announced.

JCKONLINE.COM

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com

NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

Color Fused By Fire

This 1940 Vacheron Constantin minute repeater with retrograde calendar will be auctioned at Phillips Geneva on May 11.

COMINGS AND GOINGS

will step down this year after nearly five years in the role.

Kecia Caffie

nicolebarr.com 877.810.7312

Signet Jewelers has appointed Joan Hilson as its new chief financial officer. She previously served as CFO for David’s Bridal and replaces Michele Santana. The company has also promoted Jamie L. Singleton to president of the Kay, Zales, and Peoples nameplates. Prior to her promotion, Singleton served as executive vice president of Zales and Peoples. Kecia Caffie has been promoted to senior vice president of Piercing Pagoda. She previously served as that brand’s divisional vice president. Bill Luth, who was overseeing Kay, has been named Signet’s executive vice president of global store operations.

for its watch department.

Previously, Hess was CEO of Analog/Shift and Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry.

Alexander Lacik RJ Watches, formerly known as RJ Romain Jérôme, has named Benoit Vulliet its

new managing director of the Americas. He is the former director of sales and marketing for North America for LVMH’s Zenith brand.

Geoffrey Hess Pandora has named Alexander Lacik, CEO of Britax Ltd., a manufacturer of

child safety products, as its new president and CEO. In addition, the charm company’s chairman, Peder Tuborgh,

Ya’akov Almor

Veteran industry journalist Ya’akov Almor is the new

editor-in-chief of IDEX JCKONLINE.COM

WATCH: COURTESY OF PHILLIPS

Jamie L. Singleton

Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo has appointed Geoffrey Hess as a consultant

NEWS GEMS

I&P

Fashion jewelry from lab-grown diamond brand Love Earth

Online and IDEX magazine, the Israeli diamond trade publication. He succeeds Albert Robinson.

president-elect. She will succeed current president Jenny Luker on Jan. 1, 2020.

REMEMBERED Patrick Murphy, owner of

three-store Pottsville, Pa.–based Bernd Stadlwieser

Patti Ongman Macy’s has named Patti Ongman its new chief merchandising officer. She succeeds Jeff Kantor, who had announced

Watch and jewelry industry veteran Bernd Stadlwieser has been appointed new CEO of MCH Group, the trade show company that runs the Baselworld fair. He was previously group CEO of Mondaine Watch.

Murphy Jewelers, was killed

Feb. 28 while on vacation in New Orleans. He was 62.

COMPANIES

his decision to retire.

Rio Grande has appointed Arien Gessner, currently vice

Graff building

president of sales and marketing, as its next president. He succeeds the retiring Alan Bell.

Petra Diamonds has appointed gold-mining veteran Richard Duffy its new CEO. He is cofounder of the Africa Energy Management Platform,

The board of the Women’s Jewelry Association has elected Jacqueline Cassaway,

which develops renewable and hybrid energy projects in sub-Saharan Africa.

vice president of merchandising for Starboard Cruise Services, its new

JCKONLINE.COM

Jacqueline Cassaway

Graff has acquired 710 Madison Ave., which houses its New York City flagship. The firm has been there since 2001.

Frederick Goldman has bought Love Earth, a lab-grown

diamond brand founded by Daniel Schneider. Schneider will join Frederick Goldman as vice president of sales.

NEWS GEMS

EM

GEM TRADERS LOOK TO LAS VEGAS

DEMAND IN THE colored stone market continues to be determined by price point. Dealers report that finer-quality material is fairly active, while they are more cautious about the appetite for the lower end of the market.

However, many dealers note that this time of year is usually slow. The next true test for market sentiment will come at the end of this month in Las Vegas. The majority of dealers commenting were optimistic, especially given the JCK show’s return to its former home at The Venetian and Sands Expo.

In the colored stone category, sapphire remains the strongest seller. Pastel colors, especially in pink, peach, and orange hues, are reported to be in good demand. In the bolder colors, blue sapphire and ruby dominate the market. Dealers also remain very positive about the surge in demand for garnets that cemented itself during the Tucson gem shows in February. Garnet is one of the most affordable gems in the market today, and also one of the few where concerns about treatment still are limited. In this category, orange spessartine and pink and purple rhodolite garnets are particularly good sellers.

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant

FINE

Alexandrite

G

$6,800

$6,320

$5,700

$4,720

H

$6,080

$5,800

$5,450

$4,470

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

Rhodolite Garnet I

$5,700

$5,200

$4,950

$4,000

J

$4,900

$4,500

$4,080

$3,760

1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round

Rubellite Tourmaline

G

$3,570

$3,200

$2,700

$2,340

H

$3,200

$3,000

$2,600

$2,270

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

Tsavorite Garnet I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant G H

$12,200 $10,300

$11,300 $10,000

$9,350 $8,300

1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp) $7,600

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

$7,150

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I

$9,700

$7,900

$7,600

$6,725

J

$7,200

$7,300

$6,400

$6,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut

Pink Sapphire

G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

$6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

J

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

JCKONLINE.COM

$60,000*

izes available.

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Stop by the AGTA booth to enter each day! *Prizes available are: Day 1-$30,000; Day 2-$15,000; Days 3 & 4- $7,500

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NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Sweepstakes takes place dur AGTA GemFair™ Las Vegas from May 30, 2019. ies must be received by 3:59 p.m. PT each day to qualify for that day’s dr y at the AGTA booth or www.agta.org/las-vegas/las-vegas-2/ter , y to registered buyers of the AGTA GemFair™ Las Vegas. See Offi prize descr . Od ies received.Void where prohibited. y Amer Trade

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MAY 2019

the industry authority

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR U.S.

27–28

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Las Vegas

EMERALD Happy Leaves brooch with 1.52 cts. t.w. round brilliant-cut diamonds, 1.63 cts. t.w. pavé-set diamonds, and 2.97 cts. t.w. pavé-set emeralds in white gold; price on request; Bulgari; 800-BULGARI; bulgari.com

LAS VEGAS BEAD RENAISSANCE Las Vegas

wholebead.com

31–JUNE 3

iwjg.com

May Birthstone

INTERNATIONAL

JCK LAS VEGAS

27–30

LAS VEGAS GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Las Vegas

Las Vegas

lasvegas.jckonline.com

SWISS WATCH Las Vegas

glda.com

29–JUNE 3

luxury.jckonline.com/ swiss-watch

• MAY

16–20

1–5

Vicenza, Italy

JEWELRY & WATCH VIETNAM

Soledade, Brazil

VERONA MINERAL SHOW

jewelrytradefair. com/vietnam

EXPOSOL

exposol.com.br

8–12

JEWELRY SHANGHAI Shanghai

newayfairs.com/en

LUXURY

9–12

luxury.jckonline.com

Geneva

GEMGENÈVE

Las Vegas

10–12

PALAKISS

palakiss.com/en

Verona, Italy

veronamineral show.com

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

17–20

CHIBIMART Milan

16–18

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY KOBE

chibimart.it/en

Kobe, Japan ijk-fair.jp

gemgeneve.com

3–5

GEMFAIRE

Sacramento, Calif. gemfaire.com

GREENSBORO GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW Greensboro, N.C. gtshows.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Rosemont, Ill. intergem.com

5–6

METAL & SMITH New York City

metalandsmith.com

9–11

INTERNATIONAL FASHION JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES SHOW

GEMFAIRE

Santa Barbara, Calif. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

Marlborough, Mass. intergem.com

WEST COAST GEM & MINERAL SHOW Costa Mesa, Calif. mzexpos.com

16–19

INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY AND ­M ERCHANDISE SHOW New Orleans

helenbrett.com

17–19

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Orlando, Fla.

glwshows.com

GEMFAIRE

New York City

Costa Mesa, Calif.

ifjag.com

gemfaire.com

10–12

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Franklin, N.C.

glwshows.com

Chantilly, Va. intergem.com

18–19

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

East Ridge, Tenn. americanbead shows.com

NEW BRAUNFELS SPRING BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW

New Braunfels, Texas aksshow.com

19–22

SANTA FE ­S YMPOSIUM

Albuquerque, N.M.

santafesymposium.org

22–25

SOCIETY OF NORTH AMERICAN ­G OLDSMITHS Chicago

snagmetalsmith.org

24–26

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Novi, Mich.

intergem.com

AGTA GEMFAIR Las Vegas agta.org

COUTURE

Las Vegas

thecoutureshow.com

JIS EXCHANGE Las Vegas

jisshow.com

LAS VEGAS ­A NTIQUE JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW Las Vegas

lasvegasantiquejewelry andwatchshow.com

30–JUNE 4 PREMIER

Las Vegas

premiershow.com

31–JUNE 2 GEMFAIRE

Tulsa, Okla.

gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

Santa Monica, Calif. intergem.com

SPRING ROANOKE VALLEY GEM & ­M INERAL SHOW Salem, Va.

toteshows.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

The scenic Adige river in Verona, home to May’s Mineral Show

St. Paul, Minn. intergem.com

SEE YOU SOON! LUXURY

JCK LAS VEGAS

JIS EXCHANGE

SWISS WATCH

MAY 29 – JUNE 3 MAY 30 – JUNE 3

MAY 31 – JUNE 3 MAY 31 – JUNE 3

RUDYBALASKO/ISTOCK/GETTY

• MAY

30–JUNE 3

JCKONLINE.COM

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4/10/19 12:56 PM

Revolutionary Brilliance

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And it begins with moissanite, which is made - not mined.

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7640 Haskell Ave., Van Nuys California 91406 | (800) 800-8908 | AllisonKaufman.com

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the industry authority

MAY 2019

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK

W

GROWN THIS WAY

HILE MANY JEWELRY retailers wrestle with how to respond to the growing popularity of lab-grown diamonds, Spence Diamonds has embraced the trend with gusto. The Vancouver, British Columbia–based fine jewelry chain, which has stores in Canada plus California, Arizona, and Texas, produces a proprietary collection of lab-created diamonds that it retails alongside earth-mined diamonds and jewelry collections.

Spence debuted its lab-grown diamond line, Artisan Created Diamonds, in 2017, and has seen the product become a primary sales ­driver, says Veeral Rathod, the company’s chief marketing officer.

The retailer sells only lab-grown ­diamonds that grade high on the Four

Veeral Rathod explains why his jewelry stores have embraced lab-created diamonds and the Spence sensibility

BY EMILI VESILIND

Veeral Rathod Spence Diamonds spencediamonds.com

JCKONLINE.COM

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4/10/19 12:59 PM

Shop Talk

74

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

“Consumers’ attachment to diamonds is shifting.

Shoppers are reevaluating what they want and value.”

—Veeral Rathod

This engagement ring and band is offered with mined diamonds or Spence’s Artisan Created Diamonds.

Cs, and Rathod adds that the recent introduction of larger lab-created diamonds into the market has been a boon for Spence.

“We think lab-grown diamonds are a fascinating innovation, especially the development that’s happened in the last three years where we’ve seen more bridal-quality stones produced,” ­Rathod says. The company’s policy is not to push mined over lab-created (or vice versa) on the sales floor, but to present shoppers with both options.

“We believe every customer who walks through the door should be able to see everything that’s available,” ­explains Rathod, “and make their choice from there.”

How is Spence Diamonds ­ uniquely positioned to retail lab-created diamonds?

We do a lot of diamond education in our stores. All of our sales consultants are GIA-certified—we put them through a rigorous training— so our sales process is much more educational than what I would consider most to be. With the advent of MAY 2019

JCK040119_073_SHOP_InnovativeRetailer.indd 74

lab-grown diamonds, we recognized early that because education was a strength of ours, we could leverage that and help consumers understand the differences between mined and lab-grown diamonds.

Spence we offer the same warranties and trade-up policy for lab-grown diamonds as we do for earth-mined diamonds. We do that so we can look the customer in the eye and say, “We’re going to back it up.”

What went into the creation of Artisan Created Diamonds?

Our legacy includes offering the finest earth-mined diamonds, so we wanted to do the same in the lab-grown category. We’re still looking for stones that grade high on the Four Cs in lab-grown, because we want to build trust in our customers by ensuring they get the highest-quality stone they can within their budget. We only offer graded stones in the stores. [De Beers’ lab-created collection] Lightbox is capturing a corner of the market with bulk-grade lab-created diamonds.

We, in contrast, feel strongly that labgrown diamonds can be bridal-quality.

How does Spence merchandise j­ ewelry to emphasize that there’s a diamond choice?

We have a lot of open displays, and all of our bridal rings are prototypes, so customers can be very hands-on. The tags give you the price for the ring with both a mined diamond and a lab-grown diamond.

How do you guarantee the quality of lab-grown diamonds and jewelry?

I don’t know where the pricing is going to go on lab-grown, but at

Walk us through what typically happens with a customer weighing his or her diamond options.

When you put two stones in front of the customer and tell them, for example, that you can have a 1 carat earth-mined diamond or a 1.3 carat lab-created diamond of the exact same quality, or even a little better, for the same price, most customers will say, “I want to hear more.” They always ask first, “Is it real?” And we

can tell them that, yes, the Federal Trade Commission has ruled it’s the same thing. Then they ask if it’s graded and insured, and where the pricing is going to go. In the end, 90 percent will choose the lab-grown over the mined diamond in the ­United States, and 80 percent will do the same in Canada.

What else has Spence discovered about the lab-diamond consumer?

The primary reason for selecting a lab diamond over a mined one is value.

Everyone in the diamond business is attuned to ethical sourcing and environmental factors when it comes to diamonds. I would characterize those as great supporting selling points. But it’s not the primary point. Value is.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.

JCKONLINE.COM

4/10/19 12:59 PM

May 30 – June 3, 2019 | Las Vegas Convention Center

Strategically conceived; thoughtfully executed; cultivating a c the entire industry. PREMIER™ designers, to well-respected high volume manufacturers, and everything in between.

Co-located with AGTA GemFair™ Las Vegas and the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show, their buying needs in one convenient location. All 3 events will be on one level, in one hall, creating an easy to navigate shopping environment.

Register now at:

PREMIERShow.com

Proudly made in the USA Since 1951

Shop Talk

IL

TREND SELLERS

BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: What jewelry styles or trends will you be investing in for the second half of 2019? a: The store has played with

fast fashion in seasonal colors from Alexis Bittar and Kendra Scott to great success recently.

It’s fun to have so much new and colorful [merchandise] every season. I also see the trend of elongated gem and diamond cuts—ovals, marquise, radiants—getting stronger.

That makes me think of the classic cocktail ring but with an elongated gem in a fun color.

I love the simple and small, but very noticeable, look. Think of an east-west set diamond on a simple chain—great for layering, but also chic as a single piece.

MICHAEL FLECK OWNER OCCASIONS FINE JEWELRY Midland, Texas occasionsfinejewelry.com

LISA BARROW CO-OWNER BARROW’S JEWELERS Toledo, Ohio barrowsjewelers.com

a: What we’ve learned at Barrow’s

World’s Largest & Finest Collection of Religious Jewelry JCK Las Vegas Booth #50006

516-867-1500 (local) 1-800-229-0006 (toll free) sales@randpaseka.com www.randpaseka.com

in the last 41 years is that trends have a very short life span. We’ll accommodate shoppers looking for those products on a small scale. But the style I’ll invest in is diamond stud earrings. They’re classic and timeless and...people ask for them all the time.

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

LYNN McCARY THOMAS CO-OWNER MCCARY’S JEWELERS Shreveport, La. mccarys.com

a: Some trends we’ve been

seeing that we’ll invest in are stackable bands for both hands, thin diamond engagement rings with two to four nonmatching bands, and right-hand bands.

Older customers tend to love the bands, too, but [choose styles] that are much more symmetrical. Yellow gold fashion jewelry is still very popular, including bold gold bracelets and diamond and gold pendants.

And 2 carat diamond stud earrings have become a staple for us, thankfully!

JOHN HENNE OWNER HENNE JEWELERS Pittsburgh hennejewelers.com

a: Everything’s been light

and delicate for so long, and now we’re seeing styles shifting to bigger and bolder. We’re planning to invest in bolder styles of fashion jewelry— bigger and bolder earrings, necklaces, and bracelets—[with] both yellow gold and colored gemstones. We will also try some bolder mismatched earrings.

JCKONLINE.COM

SHOP TALK

CAUSES TO CELEBRATE

78

(Clockwise from left) Gem Legacy founders Rachel, Roger, and Ginger Dery donate to the Mwatate Children’s Home; Tanzanian gem cutters; rough gems; (inset) Roger in Kenya

STATE OF MINE Gem Legacy, a new nonprofit working in East Africa, is committed to helping mining communities in need

R

BY EMILI VESILIND

OGER DERY’S LONG career as a gemstone dealer, and then a gemstone cutter, has taken him on 37 separate trips to mines in East Africa, the ­majority of them with his wife, Ginger.

The couple have witnessed firsthand the challenges present in disadvantaged African mining communities, where miners work under physically ­demanding conditions, to provide food, clothing, school tuition, and

“There were six or so women, most of them widows, who were mining by hand with picks and shovels, and they rotated child care.”—Roger Dery other basic needs for their families.

The Dery family—including daughter Rachel, who works with her parents—felt compelled to help. In 2018, they founded Gem Legacy, a nonprofit that raises funds from within the industry to support education, vocational training, and the local economies in East African mining communities.

Gem Legacy focuses on aiding miners, but the organization has raised funds for a wide range of needs. “When Roger looks at a miner, he’s also seeing the family the miner is supporting,” Rachel MAY 2019

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says. Among their initiatives: raising just over $2,000 to send 17 Malawian teenage orphans, who had been forced to drop out of school due to financial hardship, back to the classroom.

And earlier this year, the organization secured $9,500 to buy and install a used compressor for women miners at the Precious Women mine in Mkuki, Kenya. Dery says he was deeply moved on his first visit to the mine. “There were six or so women, most of them widows, who were mining by hand with picks and shovels, and they rotated child care,” he says. “I would look at them and get tears in my eyes.” The compressor, which was shipped to the site in February, has allowed the women to begin mining with power tools.

Beyond providing funds and equipment, Gem Legacy’s mission is to help communities become more self-reliant, chiefly through education that modernizes operations. For example, Dery flew to Tanzania in February to present state-of-the-art faceting equipment to a gem-cutting school that had been

­ racticing outmoded ways of cutting p stones. As a result, graduates were ­having a difficult time securing jobs.

“It’s a different mindset there when it comes to gem-cutting,” he explains.

“Their goal is to make as much money as possible, so if they can do it faster, they will. But that means the facets are not as precise. We’re going to teach them to facet in a modern way, so their goods can be sold for more money.”

The school, which is run by a gem-cutter with a history of bringing indigent individuals under his wing, is Gem Legacy’s major project in 2019.

As part of its transformation, the school will receive more than a dozen U.S.-made Facetron machines.

To achieve that modernization, Gem Legacy is partnering with roughly 60 stateside jewelry retailers on its initiatives—and hopes that number will grow. “We hear all the time that jewelers and retailers would love to support the supply chain, but they don’t know how,” Rachel says. “This is a good, uncomplicated way to do that.”

JCKONLINE.COM

4/10/19 1:04 PM

J

IVINGSTONE E

W

E

L

R

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LOS ANGELES

New Collection 800.654.3394 www.livingstonejewelry.com

JCK Las Vegas - Sands Expo - Level 1 - Hall G Booth # B49006 FIRST LOOK

SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

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Rings by Los Angeles–based brand Sirciam

1108 WOODLAND ST., UNIT H NASHVILLE

RIVETER

Rebekah LeFay’s intimate store personifies present-day Nashville: a little bit unconventional and a whole lotta rock ’n’ roll

W

BY KRISTIN LUNA PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICK McGINN

ITH LESS THAN 200 square feet, Rebekah LeFay has masterfully designed a layout with floor-to-­ceiling ­cabinets that maximizes space and highlights Riveter’s ­expansive collection of stones, stacks, studs, and custom pieces. “That was planned down to the literal millimeter,” she says of her build-out. “Usually people want more ­storage, but I kept bumping the cabinet size back and getting closer and closer to the wall—everything had to be very precise for it all to work.”

HUMBLE BEGINNINGS When she started her business a decade ago, LeFay had no formal training. In fact, the Nashville native’s initial foray into jewelry-making was a class on beading and wire-­wrapping at Michaels craft store. “I inherited a large ­quantity of my great-aunt and grandmother’s jewelry,” she says. “A lot of it was broken, and by necessity, I learned how to fix it.” LeFay wanted to learn more, so she ­enrolled in a MAY 2019

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4/10/19 1:06 PM

JCK LV • May 31-June 3 Booth #21103 833 Market Street, 10th Floor • San Francisco, CA 94103 • Tel: (415) 543-1580 • 800-864-0767 • Fax: (415) 398-3699 www.herco.com • Email: info@herco.com

SHOP TALK

82

STORE WE ADORE “There’s been a massive shift in the jewelry industry,” says LeFay. “Having something unique is important to people.”

“Everything has symbolism or very personal meaning attached to it. That’s what appeals to me most about jewelry: the story and the personal, meaningful elements. I think I attract clients whom that appeals to as well.” ­ etalsmithing class at Watkins College of Art in Nashville. m She started building her own collection and traveling to fairs and festivals as well as selling wholesale to boutiques—until a failed trade show left her near bankruptcy at age 24.

SECOND CHANCES LeFay hedged all her bets on a Los Angeles trade show only to see roughly 40 shoppers over the course of the weekend.

“I bet the farm and came back with nothing,” she says.

“Then I totaled my car on the way to my birthday dinner.”

She took those misfortunes as a sign that it was time to go back to a 9-to-5 and landed a job as an account manager at a digital advertising firm—but her desire to create never waned. Six years later, LeFay nabbed the last spot at New Approach School for Jewelers in nearby Arrington, quit her job, and returned to the fair and festival circuit.

In 2016, she put in an application to set up shop at The Idea Hatchery, a retail incubator offering affordable space in the hip Five Points area of East Nashville. A year later a spot opened up, and LeFay officially debuted Riveter in May 2017.

TOURIST ATTRACTION Oxidized sterling silver and gold designs from Minnesota brand Acanthus MAY 2019

JCK040119_080_SHOP_StoreWeAdore_v2.indd 82

“Riveter was my first venture into retail, and size-wise, it’s not that much bigger than a craft booth,” LeFay says. “So I could see how I was going to lay everything out, run the thing, and have my workshop in the back.” The collaborative atmosphere at The Idea Hatchery is ideal: “My JCKONLINE.COM

4/10/19 1:06 PM

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See us at the:

/DV 9HJDV 6KRZ Booth #10059

Blue Ray Diamonds

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SHOP TALK

84

In addition to her own, LeFay carries pieces by seven other designers, including Acanthus (r.) and Robin Haley (below), all of whom she found by “falling down rabbit holes in the internet.”

STORE WE ADORE

“Riveting in jewelry is a technique joining two pieces of metal, but it also has an industrial application with aeronautical themes, so I have some of those elements in the displays.”

priorities line up with everyone in the community, and my landlords, Bret and Meg [MacFadyen], are very intentional about providing opportunity to artists.”

Still, having a storefront in an area of Nashville with growing foot traffic has caused LeFay to rethink her business model on several occasions—and as someone with no background in retail, she is always learning. Although local clients commission engagement rings, wedding bands, and other time-intensive custom pieces, a majority of passersby stumble into her store while touring Five Points. So LeFay

makes sure to stock a selection of items ranging in price from $25 to $75, such as studs with a Nashville motif, in addition to fine jewelry that can tally anywhere from hundreds to thousands of dollars.

UNCONVENTIONAL CHARM Heirloom reinvention—taking clients’ sentimental pieces and transforming them into something a bit more their style—is a big focus for LeFay, undoubtedly a throwback to her early days rehabbing her relatives’ gems. “The thing that appeals to me most about jewelry is that it’s incredibly personal,” she says, “and one of the only tokens of meaning you wear every day.”

She describes her own style as “unconventional,” joking that older mentors “make fun of everything I do. I heed some of their wisdom and discard some of it. There’s value in the knowledge of people who have been making jewelry for 40, 50, 60 years that I simply do not have.”

Like LeFay, most of her customers trend toward the nontraditional and like seeing imperfections, such as tool marks and wax carve lines. “One of my mentors asked, ‘Did these get run over by a truck on the way here?’ ” she says of a recent piece she was casting. She could honestly respond that the industrial look was definitely ­intentional—and appreciated by clients of Riveter.

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

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JCK040119_080_SHOP_StoreWeAdore_v2.indd 84

4/10/19 1:06 PM

FINE JEWELRY Our newest brand is designed for self-purchasers and features five collections attuned to different personalities — Seeker, Rebel, Ruler, Sage, and Innocent.

As an authorized 302™ retailer, you'll enjoy marketing and sales support including access to a 302 Marketing Image Portal, sales specialists, and more.

Visit Stuller.com/302FineJewelry to learn more.

Visit us at JCK Las Vegas Booth 13089 to see these well-priced trending looks and ask how you can become an authorized 302™ retailer.

Items featured 71990, 71974 52047, 71986, 72091, and 51896

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the industry authority

MAY 2019

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

1

THE LOOK

WHAT’S THE BUZZ?

1/ Green Stag Beetle Vape Holder with tourmaline, smoky topaz, prehnite, tsavorite, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $50,000; Daniela Villegas; sharifa@danielavillegas. com; danielavillegas.com

3

2

4

2/ Signature locket with Vertly CBD balm insert on malachite Foundation necklace with diamonds and green enamel; $8,500; Harwell Godfrey; 646-745-6831; harwellgodfrey.com

We’re dazed and bejeweled over the newest crop of marijuanainspired designs: They’re bigger, bolder, and definitely stoned.

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

5 3/ Cannabis Tahitian pearl earrings with black diamonds in sterling silver; $7,000; Carole Shashona; info@caroleshashona.com; caroleshashona.com

4/ Heart Rainbow Cannabis drop earrings with malachite, blue topaz, peridot, citrine, pink tourmaline, amethysts, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $3,850; Brent Neale; 646-745-6831; brentneale.com

5/ Sweet Leaf Stack rings with black diamonds in 14k rose gold; $2,375 each; Jacquie Aiche; 310-5507529, ext. 101; jacquieaiche.com

JCKONLINE.COM

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4/10/19 1:08 PM

the look

RED CARPET

88

ROSÉ ALL DAY

Hollywood was in the pink (and red) this season. Herewith, our favorite awards-show fashion.

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Cluster bracelet with 79.08 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum; price on request; Harry Winston

UNDER $30,000

UNDER $50,000 White gold cuff with detachable platinum Art Deco 9 cts. t.w. diamond dress clips; $37,000; Mindi Mond; 212-219-3793; mindimondny.com

MAY 2019

JCK040119_088_LOOK_RedCarpet_v2.indd 88

HELEN MIRREN The eternally stylish (and seemingly ageless) Helen Mirren stole the spotlight at the 2019 Academy Awards in a totally twirlable gown by Schiaparelli Haute Couture. As she walked the red carpet, a flip of the voluminous skirt revealed layers and layers of fiery pink and orange tulle. By comparison, her Harry Winston jewels were relatively tame—though certainly not understated. Total carat weight for her platinum and diamond cluster earrings, necklace, and bracelet? Nearly 240.

STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE

18k white gold bangle with 5.45 cts. t.w. marquise diamonds; $26,500; Cirari; 212-7642823; cirari.com

JCKONLINE.COM

4/10/19 1:17 PM

The Essence of Timeless Design 18 Karat - Platinum - Fine Gems

Thank you Retailers for your support

WINNER/FINALIST OF THE JCK JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS FOR 11 CONSECUTIVE YEARS SINCE 2009

See us at LUXURY BY JCK SHOW MAY 29 - JUN 3 BOOTH # LUX303 WWW.JYESCORP.COM

the Look

90

RED CARPET

Diva collection chandelier earrings with 40.5 cts. t.w. diamonds; $396,000; Gismondi 1754; 786-351-9561; gismondi1754.com

UNDER $5,000

JANE FONDA Jane Fonda recently covered British Vogue for an issue that partnered with L’Oréal to celebrate “ageless style and beauty.” Could they have selected a better cover star? The Grace and Frankie actress only seems to grow more stunning with each passing year. Here at the 2019 Screen Actors Guild Awards, she’s sparkling in a sequined Valentino gown and diamonds from Gismondi 1754’s aptly named Diva collection: 40+ ct. chandelier earrings and a 20 ct. D-color teardrop-shape diamond ring (worth $3 million!).

MAY 2019

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Pallavi earrings with 4.4 cts. t.w. rose-cut and pavé diamonds in rhodium-plated silver and gold vermeil; $3,000; Modern Moghul; 361-239-8799; modernmoghul.com

JOHN SHEARER/GETTY FOR PEOPLE MAGAZINE

Chandelier earrings with 3.29 cts. t.w. rose-cut diamonds and 0.63 ct. t.w. brilliant diamonds in 18k white gold; $19,239; Beverley K; 619-465-4789; beverleyk.com

UNDER $20,000

JCKONLINE.COM

4/10/19 1:17 PM

the look

RED CARPET

92

UNDER $5,000

Divas’ Dream high jewelry earrings with diamonds and emeralds and diamonds and sapphires; prices on request; Bulgari; 800-BULGARI; bulgari.com

UNDER $30,000

MAY 2019

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Mosaic earrings with 9.8 cts. t.w. emeralds, 13.77 cts. t.w. sapphires, and 0.16 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $28,500; Sutra; sales@ sutrajewels.com; sutrajewels.com

GEMMA CHAN Are the Crazy Rich Asians actors always the most f­abulously dressed celebs wherever they go? We think so. At the 2019 Oscars, Gemma Chan radiated elegance in this haute couture gown designed by Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli.

And such a daring fashion choice deserves equally dramatic jewelry: major diamond drops from Bulgari, but with a twist—one with sapphire accents and one with emeralds.

DAN MacMEDAN/GETTY

Orchid earrings in 18k white and black gold and rhodium vermeil with lab-created emerald, moonstone, and diamonds, £1,690 ($2,237), with lab-created blue sapphire and diamonds, £1,890 ($2,502), sold as pairs; Anabela Chan; sales@ anabelachan.com; anabelachan.com

JCKONLINE.COM

4/10/19 1:17 PM

BOOTH: S-20123

the look

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RED CARPET

Force of Nature ring in 18k white gold with 7.78 cts. t.w. diamonds; price on request; Forevermark; 203-388-3544; forevermark.com

UNDER $20,000

We’ve heard of matching jewelry to a dress, but this is ­beyond.

For the SAG Awards, how did Blunt’s stylist manage to track down that sinuous Forevermark Force of Nature ring—a ­masterful double-finger (and hand) design created by Louise Kriek—to so perfectly echo the sculpted ruffles of her sequined custom Michael Kors Collection gown? We couldn’t help thinking of a phrase from a Mary Poppins song: practically perfect.

MAY 2019

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UNDER $5,000 Diamond double ring with 0.97 ct. t.w. diamonds in sterling silver and 18k gold; $4,400; Lagos KSL; customerservice@ lagos.com; lagos.com

BLUNT: FOREVERMARK DIAMONDS

EMILY BLUNT

The Claw hand cuff in 18k white gold with 5.87 cts. t.w. diamonds; $17,200; Yeprem; info@ yepremjewellery. com; yeprem jewellery.com

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P: 212.730.1888

Luxury by JCK LUX 1123

info@dabakarov.com

the look

RED CARPET

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Haute Joaillerie bracelet with 72.92 cts. t.w. multicolored spinels, 20.77 cts. t.w. diamond beads, and 4.51 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; price on request; Chopard; 800-CHOPARD; chopard.us

UNDER $250 Mesh bracelet with Swarovski crystals in silver-plated brass; €178 ($200); Frangos Jewelry; 30-210-325-1730; frangos-jewelry.gr

UNDER $200,000

MAY 2019

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AWKWAFINA Speaking of crazy well dressed Crazy Rich Asians cast m ­ embers… here’s Awkwafina, one of the many women who got the pink memo at the Oscars. The New York City–raised ­rapper-turned-actress was the epitome of low-key glam in a ­glittery disco-tastic pantsuit and pussy-bow blouse by Dsquared2 and major baubles by Chopard. Oh, and her ­handbag? It’s actually a bedazzled tequila-filled flask. Respect.

STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE

Gold and platinum bracelet with 7.45 cts. t.w. round diamonds and 63.31 cts. t.w. rose-cut multicolor sapphires; $160,000; Oscar Heyman; 212-593-0400; oscarheyman.com

JCKONLINE.COM

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the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

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Paradise charm necklace; $390; Lizzie Fortunato; 212-777-1008; lizziefortunato.com

TWIN CHIC

African glass, vintage South American poker chips, Indian textiles: You never know what will spark Lizzie and Kathryn Fortunato’s creativity

BY KATHY HENDERSON

Monte Carlo flower earrings; $295

MAY 2019

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IZZIE FORTUNATO TOOK her first sewing class in elementary school, made her own high school prom dress, and began designing jewelry while studying art history and English at Duke University. “I love creating things from unexpected materials,” says Fortunato, cofounder of the hugely successful costume jewelry and accessories brand that carries her name. As a kid in Wilmington, Del., she would look around the house, plotting ways to turn the trim on her mother’s throw pillows into a necklace or earrings. “I always had a very clear aesthetic,” she recalls, “a mixed-medium vibe.”

Meanwhile, Lizzie’s twin sister, Kathryn, grew up pursuing her own interests and majored in economics at Duke with an eye toward a career in finance. The girls were best friends, roommates, and eventually business partners, with Lizzie serving as designer and chief creative officer and Kathryn as chief business officer. Their self-funded New York City– based company, which began in their apartment in 2008, has grown into a thriving business with a loyal clientele and an enduring emphasis on “slow production” and limited-run pieces combining semiprecious stones, beads, enamel, acrylic, fabric, silk cords, gold-plated chains, and much more.

“We function like a contemporary ready-to-wear line that has new offerings each season,” Lizzie says of presenting three collections a year during New York Fashion Week, the most recent inspired by her travels in India. “Once a collection is sold, we don’t put much back into production.”

The Fortunatos are chic, vivacious, and down-to-earth, chatting at top speed about their seamless partnership and

PORTRAIT: JASON SAVAGE

L

Lizzie Fortunato and Kathryn Fortunato

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SCACCO collection

The Scacco Collection is made of ceramic and diamond pavĂŠ.

To see the latest designs, schedule an appointment to visit us at JCK.

See us at JCK Luxury, May 29 - June 3, Booth Lux 1013 and JCK Las Vegas, May 31 - June 3 5 5 5 Fi f t h Ave n u e , 3 r d F l o o r | N e w Yo r k , N Y 1 0 0 1 7 Exclusive United States & Caribbean Distributor

800-30-SOFER | info@benysofer.com | w ww.r obe r tode m e g lio.c om

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

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Botticelli earrings; $345

Mariner charm necklace; $380

Treasure chest charm bracelet; $395

MAY 2019

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what makes a piece of jewelry “a Lizzie.” Says Kathryn, “So much of our jewelry…” “…is tactile,” finishes Lizzie, in typical back-and-forth style. Lizzie’s hair is chopped into a perfect pixie; Kathryn’s is chin-length. Both exude effortless style as they model the line’s new freshwater pearl and gold-plated chain necklace (on Kathryn, who also wears a scarf designed by her sister) and a delicate chain loaded with small charms (on Lizzie). “I’m a big-necklace person and you’re a big-­ earring person,” observes Kathryn as Lizzie pops on a pair of oversized drop earrings studded with faceted stones.

When it comes to statement jewelry, the Lizzie Fortunato brand has managed to stay ahead of the curve, mostly because the designer herself refuses to stick to what she calls “one hit style.” The closest she’s come was a collection of silk fringe earrings in cheerful colors that were snapped up by celebrities and quickly copied by chain stores. Lizzie responded by altering the design and expanding her line to include woven drops, gold-plated hoop earrings with removable charms, and a variety of heart-shape styles.

“The nice thing about costume jewelry is that we can be flexible,” Kathryn says. “Lizzie reinvents the collection each season, which is tricky from a design and production perspective, but our customer keeps coming back because there’s always something new. Our hands are tied only to the extent that we don’t give Lizzie enough materials to play with.”

About that “costume” label: The Fortunatos don’t run away from it, because using 18k gold-plated brass is key to maintaining their target price—$195 to $495, with a few necklaces and handbags running a bit higher. “When we started out in our mid-20s, we wanted to create pieces that we could potentially buy,” Lizzie says. “Our materials are not solid gold, but we use a lot of semiprecious stones; my pearl vendor is the same as [high-end brand] Mizuki. We’re buying the A quality, not the triple A, but they’re the same beautiful pearls. The materials we use are made to last.”

Fine craftsmanship has been a key element in the brand’s success since the beginning, when one of the sisters’ first hires was a former seamstress for the Joffrey Ballet. While Lizzie still makes every prototype, Shannon, their staff design wizard, suggests better ways to fold ribbons, sew braids, attach gems, and string beads. Unlike many fashion jewelry companies, Lizzie Fortunato products are mostly American made. The sisters work with metalsmiths on 47th Street in Manhattan, purchase chains from a vendor in Rhode Island, and source beads and other unique elements on scouting trips to India, Mexico, Africa, Japan, and Turkey, where they also indulge their love of textiles and pottery.

“Some of our tiny metal components are made in Thailand, but at least 75 percent [of the construction] is done here,” says Kathryn, adding that U.S. labor costs are offset by savings in

JCKONLINE.COM

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the look

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DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Postmodern cuff in tortoise; $195

Whirlpool earrings; $210

Apollo pearl necklace; $495

MAY 2019

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overseas shipping and import fees. In addition to 10 full-time employees, the company hires freelancers for detail work such as stringing and knotting pearls and connecting the links in chain necklaces. “We’re not one of those lines that sends something to a factory in China and says, ‘Hey, source this for us, put it together, and let’s see what it looks like,’ ” Lizzie says. “The fact that our production is limited and [done] right under our noses has prevented us from growing to a more mass scale, but it has also kept us desirable.”

Total sales generated by the company’s bright and inviting website and Instagram feed have grown from 15 percent to almost 25 percent. Equally important is a network of small boutiques, many of them in the Southeastern United States, where women crave colorful accessories and understand the appeal of a statement necklace with a plaid silk taffeta tieback. The current slate of about 80 retailers includes Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, and online retailer Shopbop, as well as Hampden Clothing in Charleston, S.C.; Poole Shop in Charlotte, N.C.; and Barbara/Jean in Little Rock, Ark. These single-door shops “are never going to place a big initial order,” Kathryn says, “but they’re going to sell through at full price and not ask us to take anything back.” As a designer, Lizzie values feedback from boutique owners and builds loyalty with a generous exchange policy.

As the Lizzie Fortunato customer gets older, demand is growing for a fine jewelry alternative—and the sisters have taken a step in that direction by offering 14k gold hoops ($265 versus $95 for chunkier plated brass) that can be adorned with gemstone charms (about $200 each). Still, the lure of finding, say, 35 strands of vintage glass beads on a trip to Africa and working them into a collection remains strong.

“Tell her about the poker chips!” Kathryn cries.

Lizzie enthusiastically launches into the tale of spotting and buying a cache of 400 hand-painted whalebone poker chips on eBay, all from 1920s-era South American casinos.

The sisters and their mom flew to Uruguay to pick up the chips before Lizzie transformed them into pendant necklaces.

Ten years later, the continuing demand for those long–soldout designs inspired the designer to make a gold-plated brass and enamel version for the company’s 10th anniversary.

A decade in, the twins are looking for bigger office space in downtown Manhattan and offer their favorite textiles and crafts in a “Fortune Finds” section of their website. “We’re puzzle parts that fit together,” Kathryn says of running the company’s business while Lizzie handles the creative side.

“We respect each other’s strengths instead of seeing them as a threat.” The fact that they’re both workaholics and live three blocks apart from each other in Brooklyn doesn’t hurt. “Our poor husbands know that they’re married to two people,” Kathryn says with a laugh. “But we love what we do,” Lizzie says, “and we still feel so lucky to be doing it.”

JCKONLINE.COM

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the look

Q&A

104

Asks...

PETRA CLASS

The German-born, Bay Area–dwelling designer has enviable taste in books, films, and, not surprisingly, colored stones

JEWELRY DESIGNER PETR A Class trained as a silversmith in her native Germany, but you’d swear in a previous life she was a painter. Her gallery of gemstones looks like an artist’s palette: cerulean-colored opals, ultramarine-hued lapis, viridian-green tourmalines, and more. Then there’s her choice of metal—rich 18k and 22k yellow gold—which outlines each stone like a gilded picture frame. Can you blame us for ­describing her pieces as works of art? —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 60 Number of years in the biz: 40 Number of employees you oversee: Three.

Family and pets: Husband and adult son; my cat passed away of old age a year ago.

Describe your personal style: Elegant-funky.

First piece you ever designed: Seashell earring as a child; daisy chain.

The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: All of them or none of them, depending on the day.

Best piece of advice you ever received: “Stay curious!”

Worst piece of advice: “Don’t do this!”

First job ever: As a middle school student stocking shelves at a craft supply store.

How did you get started designing jewelry? I loved my mom’s MAY 2019

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La Vie en Rose 62 cts. t.w. red tourmaline slice earrings in 18k and 22k gold

Mogul-cut 25 ct. green tourmaline ring on split band in 18k and 22k gold

jewelry box; my favorite page in the encyclopedia had images of Tutankhamen’s mask and jewels; my grandfather’s garden in summer was full of flowers to weave into necklaces.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing?

Who knows? I thought about dropping out of art school and joining a street theater troupe.

Favorite (or current favorite) gemstone: Tourmaline.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: 22k gold disk ring.

Five items on your desk right now: My favorite hammer, my saw, a sheet of 22k gold, a tourmaline, and a piece of dark chocolate.

Five songs on your playlist: Bach Cello Suites, played by ­Pablo Casals; The Goldberg Variations, played by Glenn Gould; ­“Valerie,” Amy Winehouse; anything by Paganini; ­“Grandma’s Hands,” Bill Withers.

Exercise regimen: Aikido practice three to four times a week; a couple of power walks by the beach or up the hill from my studio; and a run through the park after I was stuck in traffic too long.

What did you have for breakfast? Stone-cut oat porridge with yogurt and fruits.

Guilty pleasure: Chocolate, peanuts, and potato chips.

Drink (daytime/evening): Fresh Meyer lemonade from my tree/ a glass of red Burgundy with a nice dinner.

First website you check every day (not your own!): I try to stay away from the web if possible.

Scent: Musk.

How do you unwind? In the hammock in my garden, at Aikido practice, at a walk on the beach, or a hike in the redwoods.

A must-visit spot for anyone in the Bay Area: Mount ­Tamalpais [pictured above] and the [observation] tower at the de Young ­Museum—the views are great.

Books you’re reading: Heavy: An American Memoir by Kiese Laymon; Austerlitz by W.G. Sebald; and Decorated Skin

by Karl Groning.

Book you’ve been meaning to get to: The Bhagavad Gita.

Favorite movie: Battleship Potemkin.

Who would play you in your life story? Romy Schneider.

Personal motto: “Ah, the beauty of it all!”

CHIPS: CHONASS/ISTOCK/GETTY; SCHNEIDER: EVERETT; AIKIDO: SANJERI/E+/GETTY; MOUNT TAMALPAIS: VILHELM SJOSTROM/MOMENT OPEN/GETTY; JEWELRY: LIZ HARVEY

Austria-born actress Romy Schneider; Petra Class’ gold shortlink necklace with Tie pendant in 18k and 22k gold

JCKONLINE.COM

4/10/19 1:54 PM

PROFIL E S IN J E WE L RY

ADVERTISEMENT

2

1

FIRE & ICE Fire & Ice will debut a new collection manufactured by partner A. Jaffe at JCK Las Vegas

W

hat cut proportions truly maximize the light performance of a diamond? That is the question Bart Marks has devoted much of his professional life to answering, beginning with his first job at his family’s firm, Rogers Jewelry Co. of California and Nevada. He then transitioned to vice president of marketing and brand development for global diamond brand Hearts On Fire and later served as executive vice president for Shreve and Co. of San Francisco.

Today, Marks is the president and founder of Fire & Ice Diamonds, with offices in New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, as well as Modesto, Calif.

Marks explains that many consumers—and even much of the industry—still rely upon the 1966 American Gem Society (AGS) standard for the ideal-cut diamond based on Marcel Tolkowsky’s calculations of 1919. However, the AGS has since redefined the ideal cut as relationship of facets to optimize light performance, rather than base the beauty and value of a diamond any one set of parameters.

3

Marks was quick to see an opportunity, launching the Fire & Ice diamond brand based upon a 21st century understanding of light performance.

Using patented technology, AGS Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool (ASET) maps clearly demonstrate that Fire & Ice diamonds appear bigger, brighter, and whiter, even compared to other excellent- and ideal-cut diamonds.

“Light travels,” Marks likes to say. “You judge clarity under a microscope; you judge color when the diamond is upside down; you cannot see weight, but the Fire & Ice difference is a difference you can see from across the room. In fact, we often teach retail sales associates to compare Fire & Ice diamonds to other diamonds from 10 or even 20 feet away. We ace the test every time.”

Bart has also made it his mission to help people understand diamonds beyond the Four Cs. He seeks to educate consumers by encouraging them not to rely solely on grading reports on color or clarity. One should also not confuse carat weight with size. At some point, evaluating a diamond goes beyond science, reports, and

technology; it becomes emotional, much like one responds to nature or art. “The systems we created in the ’40s and ’50s to evaluate the rarity and beauty of diamonds just aren’t adequate to understand the true wonder and variety of nature,” he says.

In the latest company news, Marks is excited to announce a new partnership between Fire & Ice and A. Jaffe, a powerhouse bridal manufacturer since 1892 and now a minority stockholder in the brand and exclusive manufacturer of Fire & Ice jewelry.

As for what’s on the horizon for Fire & Ice, now that major investment is behind the company, Bart says: “Well you may have heard we are working on fancy shapes, ovals, cushions, princesses. We hope to have a significant announcement by the JCK show.”

For more information, and to learn more about the most common myths in the diamond industry, including the true impact of fluorescence on the appearance of natural diamonds, visit fireandicediamonds.com.

1. Selene diamond halo bridal ring with Fire & Ice rose gold iconic flame motif in 18k white gold with a 0.75 ct. round center stone, 1.5 CTW (Style FIBE60370N.Q) MSRP in 18k gold, $6,250 (includes center stone) 2. Aurora solitaire with the Fire & Ice iconic flame motif in 18k white gold set with 1 ct. round center stone (Style FIBE60372K.Q) MSRP in 18k gold, $7,100 (includes center stone) 3. Aurora split shank bridal ring with the Fire & Ice iconic flame motif in 18k white gold with 1 ct. round center stone, 1.95 CTW (Style FIBE60373KZ.Q) MSRP in 18k gold, $9,000 (includes center stone)

P. 212 - 764-2823

JCK Las Vegas Booth# 24087

info@cirari.com

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STYLIST: DANIEL EDLEY/BRYDGES MACKINNEY; HAIR: NICHOLAS ELDIN/ART DEPARTMENT; MAKEUP: MISHA SHAHZADA/FORWARD ARTISTS; MANICURE: ROSEANN SINGLETON/ART DEPARTMENT; CLOTHING: SEE P. 116

Dune 18k yellow gold and diamond hoop earrings, $7,330, Vendorafa, 305-5341974, vendorafa.net; Twister Swirl Nexus necklace, $79, Twister Swirl necklace, $49, Mineral Glow Opal Color necklace, $79, all in 14k yellow gold vermeil, Ania Haie, 866-2566151, aniahaie.com; Lucky Goddess Star necklace in doubleplated 24k yellow gold with multicolored Swarovski crystals, $169, Swarovski, 800-426-3088, swarovski.com; Golden Mantra necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.7 ct. t.w. boulder opal, 0.73 ct. t.w. kunzite, 0.41 ct. t.w. diamonds, and 1.1 cts. t.w. black diamonds, $3,200, Eden Presley, sales@edenpresley. com, edenpresley. com; linked bracelet in 14k yellow gold vermeil with CZ pavé, $298, Jen Hansen, 847-899-1840, jenhansen.com; 14k yellow gold bracelet,

$245, The Fête, hello@wearethefete. com, wearethefete. com; 14k yellow gold Havana chain bracelet with 2 cts. t.w. round topaz, amethyst, and tourmaline, $600, Luisa Alexander, 212-2172621, luisaalexander. com; Free Spirit triple ring in 14k and 18k yellow gold with 0.8 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,400, A Little Too Much, 424-394-0902, alittletoomuchjewelry. com; Grigri 18k gold-plated ring, $115, Aurelie Bidermann, 33-140-41-6737, aureliebidermann. com; Odysseia motif ring in double-plated 24k yellow gold with multicolored Swarovski crystals, $249, Swarovski; Later Alligator ring in 14k and 18k yellow gold with rubies and diamonds, price on request, A Little Too Much; Forbidden ring in 9k yellow gold and freshwater pearl, $705, Karen Walker, karenwalker@ karenwalker.com, karenwalker.com

FEATURES Photograph by Jason Kim

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THE HIGH-LOW COUNTRY DAZZLING DIAMONDS HARMONIZE WITH S PA R K L I N G C Z , W H I L E H I G H - K A R AT G O L D M I N G L E S W I T H G L E A M I N G P L AT E D B R A S S .

MIXING FINE AND FASHION JEWELRY HAS NEVER BEEN SO SIMPLE—OR SO CHIC.

Photography by Jason Kim Stylist Daniel Edley Jewelry editor Rima Suqi

Glazed Rose choker in 22k rose gold plate with Swarovski crystals, $333, Outhouse, outhouse@ outhouse.co.in, outhouse-jewellery.com; Jade Garden earrings in brass, vintage pressed glass cabochons, and Swarovski rhinestones, $225, Moans, 551-2084372, moanscouture. com; clear glass and brass cuff bracelet, $98, Marchesa, 844-8548326, thejewelrygroup.

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com; Lawrence rose gold–plated bangle with abalone shell, $88, Kendra Scott, sales@kendrascott. com, kendrascott.com; cluster stone ring in 14k gold vermeil with carved green aventurine, moonstone, and lemon quartz, $275, Bounkit, 212-244-1877, bounkit. com; sphere statement ring in hematite plate, $125, Via Saviene, 212219-3793, viasaviene.com

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112 Fiore Cascade earring in 18k gold vermeil with pavé CZ, $598, Jen Hansen, 847899-1840, jenhansen. com; Les Précieuses bracelets in gold plated brass with CZ, $89, Les Georgettes, 718-3602917, lesgeorgettes. com/us; Jasper bangle in gold-plated sterling silver with red jasper and K2 stone, $385, Jonathan Simkhai x Eye M by Ileana Makri, artemis@ rainbowwave.com, eye-m-ileanamakri.com; 14k yellow gold open finger ring with 0.95 ct. emerald, 0.22 ct. boulder opal, 0.48 ct. tourmaline, 0.27 ct. apatite, and 0.17 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,440, Eden Presley, sales@edenpresley.com, edenpresley.com; 14k rose gold ring with 11.2 ct. amethyst and 0.29 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,205, Effy, 877-275-3339, effyjewelry.com; rainbow moonstone gray pearl wing ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.15 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,200, Eden Presley; Pavé Orbit Wrap ring in 14k gold with 0.16 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,498, Adina Reyter, 213-6888313, adinareyter.com; Snake in the Grass ring in 14k white gold with 0.44 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,200, A Little Too Much, 424-394-0902, alittletoomuchjewelry.com

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Les Precieuses half-moon earrings in rose gold– plated brass with CZ, $89, Les Georgettes, 718360-2917, lesgeorgettes. com/us; 14k white gold ring with 14 ct. amethyst, 4.9 cts. t.w. pear-shape amethysts, 1.84 cts. t.w. sapphires, and 2.52 cts. t.w. tanzanite, $3,983, Effy, 877-2753339, effyjewelry.com; Lollipop mini ring in 18k yellow gold with London blue topaz and 0.18 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,995, Ippolita, 877-865-5500, ippolita.com; Liz ring No. 2 in 18k rose gold with 2.6 ct. indicolite tourmaline and 2.8 ct. sapphire, $7,800, Nana Fink, 212217-2621, nanafink.com

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Anaconda 18k yellow gold and diamond earrings, $7,519, Vendorafa, 305-5341974, vendorafa.net; Ajoncs necklace in 18k gold vermeil, $830, Aurelie Bidermann, 33-140-41-6737, aureliebidermann.com; Orbit wavy cuff bracelet in 10k gold–plated brass with crystal accents, $225, Alexis Bittar, 718-687-4144, alexisbittar.com; Savannah cuff in 22k yellow gold–plated brass

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with 0.9 ct. t.w. rainbow moonstone, $265, Dean Davidson, 647-7934818, deandavidson.ca; Anaconda 18k yellow gold and diamond bangle, $37,436, Vendorafa; Queen of the Nile cuff in 24k yellow gold electroplate and lapis-like glass, $450, Ben-Amun

by Isaac Manevitz, 212-944-6480, ben-amun. com; Nomad bangle in 22k yellow gold–plated brass with 24 cts. t.w. rainbow moonstone, $640, Dean Davidson

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CLOTHING: (OPENER) JACKET: EQUIPMENT; (SPREAD) DRESS: SELF-PORTRAIT; (FOLLOWING, LEFT AND FOLLOWING SPREAD) DRESS: JASON WU; (FINAL SPREAD LEFT) SPAGHETTI STRAP DRESS: KUHO; (RIGHT) THE KOOPLES

Jaylin earrings in plated rose gold with abalone shell, $198, Kendra Scott, sales@ kendrascott.com, kendrascott.com; limitededition large liquid Lucite link necklace in 10k yellow gold–plated brass, $495, Alexis Bittar, 718687-4144, alexisbittar. com; Matis pavé ring in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver with 9.82 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, $5,250, Alma pavé 18k rose gold and sterling silver ring with 10.13 cts. t.w. pink sapphires, $3,850, Evanueva, 646591-8470, evanueva.it

4/10/19 3:55 PM

Rivière necklace in rhodium-plated brass with 185 cts. t.w. clear quartz, $600, Bounkit, 212-2441877, bounkit.com; Flat front-back earring in gold tone–plated brass with hand-cut glass crystal, glass pearl, CZ, and sequins, $85, Michelle metal and pearl open cuff bracelet, $85, Carolee, 314-909-1651, carolee. com; crystal-encrusted Lizard hinge bracelet in Lucite, $275, Alexis Bittar, 718-687-4144, alexisbittar.com; Mercy ring in sterling silver, $150, Georg Jensen, janita.pivawer@ georgjensen.com, georgjensen.com; Wide Bent ring in sterling silver, $440, Minton, 443-4213618, shopminton.com

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R E L I A B L E S O U R C E S T H E S E D E S I G N E R S C A R E N OT O N LY ABOUT THEIR JEWELRY ’S LOOK, BUT ALSO ABOUT WHERE IT CAME FROM, H OW I T ’ S M A D E , A N D W H AT I T S U P P O RT S

Photography by Joel Stans Prop stylist Alex Brannian Jewelry editor Rima Suqi

Altana necklace in 14k recycled yellow gold with 11 cts. t.w. rutilated quartz; $1,765; Enji Studio Jewelry; 858-381-0413; enjistudiojewelry.com

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24k and 18k yellow gold cuff with 21.21 cts. t.w. responsibly mined Greenland rubies and 3.83 cts. t.w. diamonds; $85,800; Victor Velyan; 213-955-5950; victorvelyan.com

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Rachel earrings in 18k recycled yellow gold with 7.55 cts. t.w. Tenda-cut pink tourmaline and 7.1 cts. t.w. spessartine; $5,680 (sold as a pair); Debra Navarro; 316-871-0569; debranavarro.com

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Flower twist bracelet in recycled, certified conflict-free 18k yellow gold; $1,900; Christina Malle; 917-488-9338; christinamalle.com

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Agra pendant in 18k hand-hammered fair-mined yellow gold with 4.98 ct. marquise cabochon fair-trade Muzo emerald, 0.78 ct. t.w. rose-cut natural black diamonds, and 0.09 ct. t.w. melee; $5,185; Dana Bronfman; sales@danabronfman.com; danabronfman.com

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b y S t e p h a n i e Vo z z a

TODAY’S SHOPPERS AREN’T JUST LOOKING AT YOUR PRODUCTS. THEY’RE LOOKING AT YOUR BUSINESS MODEL, TOO.

According to the 2017 Cone Communications CSR Study, 78 percent of American consumers want companies to address important social justice issues, and 87 percent will purchase a product because a company advocated for an issue they cared about.

Companies that don’t take a stand risk losing revenue: The same study found that 76 percent of U.S. consumers will refuse to purchase a company’s products or services upon learning it supported an issue contrary to their beliefs.

Whether it’s by using recycled metals and gemstones, getting rid of dangerous chemicals, or rethinking packaging, an increasing number of jewelry designers and retailers are adopting sustainable practices. And as more industry pros join the cause, the challenges they once faced are falling away.

“When I started using recycled metals, there was only one ­refiner, so I was buying scrap and refining it myself,” says Aran Galligan, who founded the Seattle-based eco-conscious brand Aide-mémoire Jewelry in 2012. “The thing I’m excited about is that as there’s more awareness around green practices, more environmentally responsible materials are becoming available.”

Galligan is very strict about material sourcing. “We work with recycled precious metals, and as far as diamonds go, we typically use only recycled or lab-grown,” she explains. “If we use newly mined, they’re Canadian or Australian, where there

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are more restrictions around the mining, such as making sure people are paid decent wages.”

Kate Maller, founder of Kate Maller Jewelry, has a background in architecture and holds the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) professional credential. “When I decided to start making jewelry products and launched my line, I wanted to carry those values over,” says Maller, who lives and works in Denver. “Sustainability is one of my core principles.”

Maller uses reclaimed metals and gems that are recycled or from fair-trade sources. “We commit that 100 percent of our materials are from ethical sources,” she says. “Demand is growing, and the market is changing for jewelers with what you can buy. It’s similar to what happened in architecture.”

THE GREEN TREND With a growing number of global consumers buying or boycotting brands based on their beliefs, there is a clear desire for responsibly sourced and sold products, says Andrew Bone, former executive director at the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). “For larger retailers, adopting sustainable practices can be a demonstration of leadership,” he says, “building on their CSR [corporate social responsibility] credentials and showing due diligence to suppliers, partners, investors, and shop-floor customers.”

For smaller retailers, sustainability offers a competitive edge in the market, from both an employer and customer perspective.

Everything from the increased investment into socially responsible companies to the boom in ethical retail over the past 10 years indicates positive change, Bone says. “The RJC has seen membership grow on average 20 percent each of the past five years to over 1,100 members today, suggesting the combined ­appetite not just for sustainable and responsible practices but for a community across our industry.”

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“Some people will be most concerned about pollution, others with child labor, and others with social justice.”

—Christine Dhein

HOW TO ADOPT SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES More than 90 percent of CEOs state that sustainability is important to their company’s success, according to the Stanford Social Innovation Review. But it can be difficult to know where to begin. The starting point is to become informed, says Christine Dhein, author of Eco Jewelry Handbook: A Practical Guide for a Healthy, Safe, and Sustainable Studio.

“I believe most jewelers want to do what’s right, but they don’t know the impact of their actions or they don’t know what a better choice would be,” she says. “I like to share information about better choices for material sourcing as well as about chemicals in the studio and how to protect your health.”

Ethical standards are a personal matter, adds Dhein, with the three main areas being environmental, political, and social.

“Some people will be most concerned about pollution, others with child labor, and others with social justice,” she says. “Where are your priorities and where are you willing to draw lines?

Outline the issues that are important to you so you can decide where to start.”

Once you set standards, use them to create sourcing policies.

You can work with current suppliers to meet those requirements or look for alternatives. Groups such as RJC and Ethical Metalsmiths offer resources to jewelers who want to purchase fair-trade gold that supports miners who treat employees fairly, with a fair wage organized in a democratic way.

Sustainability also involves the techniques and chemicals you use, and Dhein suggests seeking less toxic substitutes. Galligan, for example, has focused on using as little plastic as possible. Consider

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practices that conserve resources in the studio, such as electricity and packaging, as well.

“We do a lot of green practices, such as printing on tree-free paper made from a byproduct of sugar,” Galligan says. “We don’t use paper towels, we purchase recycled toilet paper, use organic and natural cleaning products, and recycle and compost as much as we can.

We haven’t found a plastic-free solution for ring boxes—yet.”

Responsible and sustainable business practices begin at home, Bone says. “Jewelers should be asking the right questions and doing their due diligence on partners throughout the supply chain.”

If going green seems like an overwhelming task, start with one area, such as material sourcing, suggests Dhein. “Break it down, review what you are using, and figure out how to take manageable steps to source materials [or change] studio practices. Then tackle another area.”

Jewelry from (l–r) Debra Navarro, Wwake, and Victor Velyan

SHARE YOUR EFFORTS Make customers aware of your sustainable practices through ­in-store signage and on your website. It’s also important to educate staff members on your mission and standards, as they’re the ones operating face-to-face each day with customers, adds Bone.

About half of Maller’s clients found her because they were looking for sustainable jewelry. “The others liked our designs, and having a conversation gives us a chance to educate them on sustainable jewelry,” she says.

Likewise, Galligan reports that a lot of Aide-mémoire customers discovered the brand while searching for ethical jewelers.

“Across the board, consumers are looking at businesses and their practices,” she says. “They want to know if [companies are] ­doing business in an ethical way, or if they are all about making money. I see a big change, with more jewelers becoming aware of issues and being more ethical in their practices.”

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b y Ve n e s s a L a u

FA L L FASHION B R E A K O U T T H E C H A I N S A N D P U M P U P T H E G E M S : B I G G E R I S B E T T E R W H E N I T C O M E S TO N E X T S E A S O N ’ S J E W E L RY T R E N D S

FAVES “W

HAT BECOMES A legend most?” If you’re north of a certain age, you’ll recognize the slogan, from furrier Blackglama, oft accompanied in ads by famous faces Bette Davis, Judy Garland, Diana Ross…

In a season where we lost four titans of fashion—Karl Lagerfeld of Fendi and Chanel; style icons and Truman Capote swans Lee Radziwill and Marella Agnelli; and Fairchild Publications’ Patrick McCarthy—the mind repeatedly wandered to that tagline. These figures were legends because they had a singular point of view; even Lagerfeld, forever praised for his originality, knew the potency of consistency (hello, quilting and interlocking C’s). As much as fashion aches for the shock of the new and novel, there’s a savvy in embracing the familiar. And for the fall 2019 shows, many of the best collections—and trends—did just that: return to what we know, with subtle subversion. Like plaids, in unexpected colors. Great tailoring, just deconstructed or with a certain slouch. Florals, with a dark underpinning.

Bourgeois chic (so much camel and beige) and ’90s grunge. Here, a look at how all this translates in the world of bijoux.

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—1— Lollipop necklace with bicolor tourmaline and rhodochrosite in 14k yellow gold; $6,415; Retrouvaí; 646-745-6831; retrouvai.com

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SUPER SIZE ME

—2— Arcobaleno necklace with 150.5 cts. t.w. ametrine and 1.6 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $45,000; Faraone Mennella; 212752-5990; faraonemennella.com

—3— Sky Crane black onyx ring with diamonds, rubies, and 14k gold; $1,250; Bleecker & Prince; 917213-7105; bleeckerandprince.com

n keeping with the season’s vogue for the bourgeoisie, there were a lot of ladyfied looks: ­discreet gold jewelry (Celine), polite pearls (Givenchy), and pretty cameos (Dior). But what felt fresh were the oversized overtures.

So we got glamour on steroids at Moschino and Dolce & Gabbana, in proportions so exaggerated they were practically camp (paging Met Gala 2019!). Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia, no stranger to magnifying his silhouettes, served up some gloriously mammoth gems—as did Tory Burch (pictured), in lovely drop earrings flaunting massive pear-shape crystals.

Volume, in fact, was a major motif, whether in the souped-up froth at Tomo Koizumi’s delightful debut show, Comme des Garçons’ bulbous collection, or the countless sculpted and grand couture shapes seen elsewhere (including, rather alluringly, at Marc Jacobs). What felt particularly new about this in jewelry wasn’t just the oversized ornamentation itself, but that designers frequently paired it with simple daywear—for example, streamlined military coats at Burch, beautifully tailored suits at Balenciaga.

The contrast charmed the eye.

—4— One-of-a-kind natural orange zircon and sapphire ring; price on request; Vram; 310-859-9545; vramjewelry.com

—5— Drop earrings with amethysts, vintage artisanal Czechoslovakian crystal, and citrine in 18k gold– plated brass; $590; Iradj Moini; 212-594-9242; iradjmoini.com

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LINKED IN

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—2— Eka Anniversario Flex’it bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 0.19 ct. t.w. diamond rondel; $7,020; Fope; fopeusa@fope.com; fope.com

5 4 —3— Metal and black, burgundy, and beige leather long necklace; price on request; Chanel; 800-550-0005; chanel.com/us

—4— Tango chain bracelet in rose gold; $44,700; Pomellato; 800-2546020; pomellato.com

—5— Mahogany chunky chain-link necklace with gold-tone beads; $684; Vanda Jacintho; raluca@rainbowwave.com; vandajacintho.com

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hains were the big jewelry statement of the season, sprinkled liberally across the runways from New York to Paris—but these weren’t your ordinary links. Designers ­playfully skewed with the classics, from Jonathan Anderson at JW Anderson, who featured ­clownishly oversized chain-link chokers, to Marni’s Francesco Risso, who draped his ­models (pictured) with links of all shapes and styles, even harness-like over the body, for a hauntingly elegant Jacob Marley look.

Over at Tod’s, there were Frankensteined necklaces spliced from variously sized links; at Rokh, single lyrical strands falling from the lobe to the waist; and at Anrealage, extra-long necklaces with a gargantuan clasp in the front, worn like a decorative pendant. Olivier Rousteing of Balmain and Christian Siriano, meanwhile, both combined their chains with the burgeoning trend for hair jewelry—the latter clipped chains into the models’ hair, while the former gave them chunky chain-link “crowns” to wear (think Woodstock hippie gone punk).

The message on the runways was clear: Be bold and dramatic.

—1— Chain link Adwoa hoops in silver rhodium–plated brass; $395; Jennifer Fisher; 888-255-0640; jenniferfisherjewelry.com

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4 5 —1— Curly hair earrings in sterling silver; $200; Queenie Cao; 212-2193793; queeniecaojewelry.com

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—2— Colette open hinge cuff with 14k gold and hematite plating and Swarovski crystals; $225; Via Saviene; 212-219-3793; viasaviene.com

—3— Ori earring in 14k gold–plated bronze; $180; Lady Grey; 212-2193793; ladygreyjewelry.com

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tock up on silvers and golds because fall 2019 is—pardon the pun—the time to shine.

There was plate work galore, coolly sleek with a touch of futurism— from the flattened, abstract earrings at Hellessy and Y/Project to the flattened, abstract chandeliers at Isabel Marant; from the demonstrative wide cuffs at Chloé and Self-Portrait to the equally impressive sharp and saucer-like versions at Maison Rabih Kayrouz, jutting out from the arm like badass weaponry.

We saw a torrent of sci-fi c­ hokers, too—chokers, by the way, are a big thing this season. At Alexander McQueen (pictured), for instance, they proved a nice counterpoint to the collection’s sweeping dark romance.

Case in point: a poufy fuchsia dress constructed to resemble a giant rosette, which was styled with a thick gunmetal choker plus pavé-covered chain-links and big teardrop crystals. (For those counting, that’s a triple trend alert.)

Leave it to Gucci’s Alessandro Michele, however, to bring this trend to its theatrical extreme: His models wore threatening spiked chokers, metal plates that swept across the eye, and gold cuffs that covered—and were molded to—the ear.

—4— Headlights collar in faceted rock crystal and hammered 18k gold; price on request; David Webb; 212-421-3030; davidwebb.com

—5— Bauble ring in 14k white gold; $3,850; Established; 646-7456831; establishedjewelry.com

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ast November, Marc Jacobs dipped back into his oeuvre and revived his legendary grunge collection for Perry Ellis—yes, the one that famously got him pink-slipped in 1993. If this season was any indication, Kurt Cobain and crew are back, with numerous ­other designers, including Agnona, Junya Watanabe, and R13, glancing back to the era’s DIY subcultures.

The mood was reflected in jewelry with a madcap mixed-media mentality; there’s beauty in imperfection and an elegance in the mess. Even Donatella Versace, pied piper for lacquered perfection, channeled the undone vibe and accessorized her girls with chaotic-chic piles of chains, brooches, rhinestones, and gems.

Others played to the trend with an eye toward upcycling—best seen at Gypsy Sport (bottle-cap chandeliers), Stella McCartney (paper-clip tassels, rubber-band necklaces), and Proenza Schouler (fringe earrings made from metal bits and bobs, like clusters of lobster clasps). Of course, the look can still be gorgeously luxe—check out Prabal Gurung (pictured), whose latest collaboration with Tasaki included crazy, tangled strands of pearls.

—1— Silver and gold–plated pearl cluster charm drop bangle; $302; Tribe by Amrapali; newyork@amrapalijewels.com; tribebyamrapali.com

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—2— Venus collage removable-pendant necklace with lapis, motherof-pearl, agate, and turquoise; $325; Lulu Frost; 212-965-0075; lulufrost.com

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5 4 —3— Venus Pom-Pom earrings with shells and crystals; €250 ($280); Bijoux de Famille; contact@ bijouxdefamille-paris.com; bijouxdefamille-paris.com

—4— Abby earrings with glass beads, resin sequin embroidery, and rhodium-plated brass hardware; $195; Mignonne Gavigan; info@mignonnegavigan. com; mignonnegavigan.com

—5— Mikado Flamenco Sky bracelet with London, Swiss, and sky blue topaz in 18k rose gold; $40,860; Tamara Comolli; bw@tamaracomolli.com; tamaracomolli.com

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LOVE IS IN THE AIR

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5 —1— Jumbo Love octagon signet ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.83 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,460; Shay Fine Jewelry; 424-777-0210; shayfinejewelry.com

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—2— Lucky Goddess charms necklace with gold plating; $299; Swarovski; 800-426-3088; swarovski.com

—3— Textured Heart Drop earrings with gemstones in 18k yellow gold; $3,400; Brent Neale; 646-7456831; brentneale.com

very year, designers respond to the various global anxieties in different ways— joyful colors one moment, overt political statements another.

For fall, love was in the air. To wit: Sies Marjan’s Sander Lak said his collection was about falling in love, while Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli left literal love poems on showgoers’ seats. It was a welcome move in a season marked by loss, uncertainties (ticktock, Brexit) and the continual widening of political divides.

On the jewelry front, the interpretation is easy: heart motifs, and lots of them. We saw them at Oscar de la Renta, Escada, Rachel Comey, Chanel (pictured), and Rodarte, which featured sweet heart-print dresses as well.

Over at Chloé, Natacha Ramsay-Levi closed the show with a high-slit gown featuring outlines of a couple holding hands—and abstracted gold earrings embossed with the same silhouette.

Then there were those who took the theme along a kinkier route, although you may not know it at first glance. Christopher Kane’s long ­plastic earrings with a crystal stud up top? They’re inspired by latex and balloon fetishists.

—4— Charmed ring with 3 ct. citrine, 3 ct. onyx, and 0.5 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds in 18k rose gold; $3,800; Daniella Kronfle; info@daniellakronfle.com; daniellakronfle.com

—5— Earrings with cloissoné enamel and white topaz in gold-plated silver; €240 ($270); Percossi Papi; percossipapi@percossipapi.com; percossipapi.com

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ROCK

H OW TO I N C O R P O R AT E THE GEM-BASED WELLNESS T R E N D I N TO Y O U R R E TA I L JEWELRY BUSINESS

by Martha C. White

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THERAPY

14k rose gold 4-row pavé diamond aqua aura crystal necklace; $4,750; Jacquie Aiche; 310-5507529, ext. 101; jacquieaiche.com

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EMSTONES, CRYSTALS, and other minerals are—no pun intended—a bedrock of the jewelry business. And now that crystals are firmly in the zeitgeist, they have the potential to become a powerful sales tool for independent jewelers.

Surging interest in crystals and complementary therapies such as yoga, aromatherapy, and sound baths gives jewelry retailers the chance to bring in new shoppers, expand their merchandise mix, and grow their value proposition for customers. “It’s definitely a hot-ticket item right now,” says Jen Cullen Williams, managing director of the public relations firm Luxury Brand Group.

“I don’t really see any barriers for the gem industry,” agrees Colleen McCann, owner of the energy-work company Style Rituals and author of Crystal Rx. “What I do see is an opportunity to speak about gems in a way that can benefit their business.”

Los Angeles–based jewelry designer Jacquie Aiche has been working with crystals and nontraditional gemstones for years.

“The market has caught on, and everybody’s using crystals,” she says. “Traditional jewelry stores are always looking for something new, and they want what the consumer wants. You see more people turned on by it, and that’s what builds the curiosity.”

Proponents of holistic medicine and crystal healing say these stones contain properties that can help people become calm, focused, energized, loving, and even prosperous. “People are often subconsciously drawn to the colors and stones that bring balance and harmony in their lives,” says Zoë Taylor-Crane, owner of Paper Crane Apothecary, a gem and crystal aromatherapy product line.

“People are very open to learning more about what crystals might be able to do—trying to find ways to enhance their lives that may be different from what they’ve experienced before,” says Anjanette Dienne Sinesio, owner of Gem-Water. Her company distributes water bottles, wands, and decanters, manufactured by VitaJuwel, that incorporate gemstones and crystals.

Sinesio says interest in crystals crosses generations: Baby boomers who learned about crystals in the ’60s or ’70s are lining up alongside millennials seeking something more distinctive than a traditional jewelry retailer might offer. In addition, beauty treatments such as jade facial rollers and mineral makeup are opening the door to a wider acceptance and use of materials recovered from the earth.

“The simplistic nature of a stone that in itself carries no dogma can be a really beautiful piece,” says Andi Scarbrough, owner of CrownWorks, which offers crystal- and gemstone-based hair salon services and products such as the CrystalComb.

If you’re not sure where or how to get started, Scarbrough and other experts offer a few suggestions for how to tap into this trend.

STAGE EVENTS & ACTIVITIES Williams recommends “a wellness month, a pop-up event, or a temporary installation.” If you have the space, hold complementary activities like a yoga class or a crystal-centric seminar (“it’s a fresh way to drive people into the store”). Aiche hosts yoga classes and other events at her showroom. “We also do sound baths with gemstones and copper bowls and have crystals all around,” says the designer, who in March ventured beyond the jewelry space with a line of personal care products—think rosewater facial mists, room sprays, and incense, all infused with crystals such as rose quartz and amethyst. “It promotes well-being and makes people happy.”

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USE POINT-OF-SALE MATERIALS

Rose quartz (top) and amethyst luxe CrystalComb; $170–$200; CrownWorks; info@crownworks. net; crownworks.net

When it comes to crystals and wellness, “people are becoming more and more educated,” McCann says. When you or your staff members deliver on this hunger for information on the theories behind crystals, those conversations can turn browsers into buyers.

From her previous career in fashion activewear, McCann learned that all kinds of products benefit from explanation, whether that takes the form of a hangtag on a pair of yoga pants or a table tent explaining the properties of a particular crystal. “When you’re at the point of sale,” she says, “give [shoppers] information about those energetic properties.”

If you’re selling complementary wellness products such as crystal-infused water bottles, quartz beauty accessories, or essential oils, small signs explaining how these products are believed to work together to foster, say, focus or relaxation, can go a long way toward engaging your curious customer base. “The education piece is huge, whether it’s in your point-of-sale or merchandising setup,” Scarbrough says.

SHOW THEM OFF

Vitality bottle with emerald and clear quartz; $120; Gem-Water; 888-218-2289; gem-water.com

“Having a dedicated display for stones that evoke feelings of love or wealth could really tell a story, along with a history of the stone itself,” Scarbrough says. “You start to foster the feeling of a relationship with the stone.” For example, rose quartz is said to promote feelings of love, toward oneself and others, so you could put a handful of tumbled rose quartz crystals in a small bowl accompanied by a tent card with words like love, compassion, and reflection.

“It would actually be great to have versions of the raw stones or tumbled stones around the display case,” says Taylor-Crane.

“I love to merchandise the gemstones and the minerals in with the pieces [customers] are already accustomed to,” Aiche says. You can use stones in the same color family for a more seamless look. “I will layer, say, a moonstone in with diamonds and gold.”

Since advocates say simply touching crystals can help people feel more harmonized, give customers a chance to physically connect with stones: Leave loose crystals out on a table or grouped into a small container that people can pick up, hold up to the light, and rub between their fingers. “Everybody wants to touch,” Aiche says.

“They want to feel the crystal, and that’s really important.”

Displaying non-jewelry merchandise featuring gem crystals can also kick-start customer interest. “Having the water bottle by your desk extends that love of the natural stones and what they’re able to do,” says Sinesio, broadening the opportunity for sales. Someone shopping for a housewarming gift isn’t going to buy the hostess a garnet ring, but she might pick up an eye-catching decanter adorned with tumbled garnet or other gems.

And you don’t need to speak the language of a New Age guru.

“You don’t want to hit somebody with a tidal wave of the woo-woo talk,” McCann says. “If you’re teaching people a quick palatable ­lesson in how to tap into their ‘Spidey senses,’ tell them many people can feel energy in their hands, and invite them to pick up a crystal that calls to them. People love that experience because it really helps them to interact with the stones.”

“The fundamental thing is to start with why I love this particular piece,” Scarbrough says. “It doesn’t have to be an overly meta­physical explanation. As oversaturated as we are with information, just ­having personal points of connection is so important. Intimacy is the new currency.”

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FAST-F OOD POINTS

H OW A T E N N E S S E E J EW E L RY S TO R E F O U N D I N S P I R AT I O N A N D IDEAS FOR IMPROVEMENT FROM A SURPRISING SOURCE

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b y D a n i e l P. S m i t h

ORE THAN A few times, Chris Jordan sat in awe as he waited in the drive-through lane of his favorite restaurant. Regardless of ­ day or time, a line of cars curled onto the road. The windows and landscaping looked immaculate.

His order was filled correctly, and the staff—most of them hourly employees or teens with no interest in a food service career— served him with warmth and attentiveness.

“How do they do it?” Jordan wondered about Pal’s Sudden Service, a 1950s-style hamburger joint with 29 locations scattered across northeast Tennessee and southwest Virginia.

As co-owner of Dempsey’s Jewelers in Johnson City, Tenn., Jordan constantly hunted for ways to advance his family’s 26-year-old retail store. Located amid more than a dozen local jewelry shops, and facing the challenges of running a small business, Jordan drew a direct line from continuous improvement to long-term sustainability.

In Pal’s, Jordan found inspiration and actionable pathways to progress.

It’s fair to ask what a jewelry retailer like Dempsey’s, which specializes in custom jewelry and upscale lines such as Le Vian and Simon G., could possibly learn from a seller of burgers, fries, and shakes. But Pal’s isn’t just any restaurant operation. In fact, the chain is one of only about 100

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recipients of the Malcolm Baldrige National Quality Award, bestowed by the U.S. Department of Commerce upon businesses that exhibit performance excellence.

That honor spurred Pal’s, a family-owned company with an interest in paying it forward, to create the Pal’s Business Excellence Institute (BEI). For the past 18 years, the nonprofit educational center, located in Kingsport, Tenn., has shared the drivers of Pal’s success with a diverse array of ­entities ranging from healthcare systems and hotels to school districts, government agencies, and retailers while championing one core message: The more extraordinary a business gets, the easier it becomes to manage that business, build loyalty, and boost performance.

“When you do the basic things extraordinarily well,

The unlikely source of one jeweler’s inspiration: Pal’s Sudden Service

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Dempsey’s Jewelers in Johnson City, Tenn.

your customers can count on you—and it will show in the ­results,” says Pal’s BEI vice president David Jones, adding that BEI graduates report improvements of 25 to 300 percent in sales and profits after integrating Pal’s key lessons into their own operations.

Last fall, Jordan and his father, Dempsey’s ­founder Dempsey Jordan, attended Pal’s BEI, eager to chart a path toward sustained growth and to fine-tune what they call “The Dempsey’s Difference.” Jordan says the two-day course, which included a behind-the-scenes tour of a Pal’s restaurant to see principles in action, confirmed some of his store’s existing practices, highlighted opportunities for ­improvement, and underscored the value of leaving one’s four walls to gather business-building ideas from other operations—even the local hamburger joint.

Here’s what Dempsey’s put into action:

DESIGNING OUT THE GRAY With some 1,200 employees in its system, the brand standards at Pal’s could easily slip. They don’t. The company clearly articulates those standards to staff and then holds all employees accountable. No exceptions.

“At Pal’s, you’ll see everyone in 100 percent uniform standards and workers busy even if there are no customers around,” Pal’s BEI president David McClaskey says.

“Our people know what’s expected of them, and that’s why Pal’s has four times the repeat business of its national competitors.”

Upon returning to Dempsey’s, Chris Jordan worked to “design out the gray.” He and his father crafted formal store policies and guidelines for customer interactions, then personally reviewed those details with each staff member. “Everything today is more black-and-white,” Jordan says of employee expectations. “If we’re —David McClaskey, Pal’s Business Excellence Institute not precisely clear about the culture we’re trying to create, how will our staff ever know and buy in?”

“Excellence is in the details, which escapes a lot of people, and it’s because of this precision that we meet key customer requirements every time without fail.”

DRIVING OUT WASTE At Dempsey’s, Chris Jordan regularly employs one of Pal’s defining mantras: “A place for everything and everything in its place.”

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Indeed, Pal’s champions efficiency and purpose. If items are scattered about, then staff members lose valuable time searching for what they need to serve customers appropriately. If Pal’s operators don’t reconcile time clocks following every shift, then payroll becomes more complex and time-consuming than necessary.

Adopting this philosophy, Jordan strives to eliminate anything that fails to mesh with Dempsey’s vision and ­objectives. “If something isn’t adding value, whether that’s a component of our training, a tool, or a product line, then it’s gone,” he says.

MINDING THE DETAILS Committed to “succeeding at everything,” Pal’s breaks down every process into finely detailed steps. In filling a carbonated soda, for instance, there’s a precise way to hold the cup as well as specially designed ice cubes stored at a defined temperature.

“Excellence is in the details, which escapes a lot of people, and it’s because of this precision that we meet key customer requirements every time without fail,” McClaskey says.

Though Dempsey’s already prided itself on attention to detail, Pal’s unrelenting precision showed there was another level to reach. When taking in a repair now, for example, Dempsey’s staff follows a strict process to ensure no detail goes overlooked.

“When you’re shooting for 100 percent, 90 percent isn’t good enough,” Chris Jordan says. “And, honestly, excellence is a lot simpler than you’d think. It just takes focus, discipline, and thinking differently.”

INVESTING IN THE RIGHT TEAM At Pal’s, the employee turnover rate is half the industry average, which Jones attributes to an unbending human resources ­philosophy: Hire for attitude; train for skill. The right people led the right way, he says, fuel operational excellence.

Much like Pal’s, Chris Jordan understands that people drive Dempsey’s business, which is why he has heightened his ­ emphasis on staff management since attending BEI. He’s ­designed new hiring standards and training protocols, ­incorporated daily meetings before the store opens to improve transparency and facilitate collaboration, and i­nstituted weekly meetings with each employee to understand how Dempsey’s leadership can better position its staff for success.

“This has improved staff morale and charged up our team,” says Jordan—so much so that Dempsey’s is considering sending key staff members to a future BEI session.

4/10/19 3:00 PM

COU N T D OW N TO T H E SA N DS

PA R T Y

FIVE OF

S O L I TA I R E S , S A P P H I R E S , A N D S TAT E M E N T E A R R I N G S TOP JEWELERS’ VEGAS SHOPPING LISTS. PLUS: PREPARE FOR A CHAIN REACTION, AND GET READY TO DROP SOME SERIOUS COIN.

b y K r i s t i n Yo u n g Photography by Joel Stans Prop stylist Alex Brannian Jewelry editor Rima Suqi

F

INE JEWELERS HEADED to JCK Las Vegas at the end of May can feel heartened by a strong economy, an upswing in sales for 2018, and the continuing trend toward self-purchasing. Keeping one eye on the U.S. trade tiff with China, jewelry buyers are ­nevertheless optimistic about this year’s prospects and report that they are poised to write orders.

But what will they buy? Branded jewelry is on the rise but still represents only 30 to 40 percent of global sales, with unbranded jewelry accounting for 60 to 70 percent, according to McKinsey & Co. No wonder buyers see an opportunity in discovering smaller artisans and emerging talents who provide unique takes on this year’s must-have pieces while offering greater margins.

Here are five trends retailers and forecasters are betting will drive sales in 2019.

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• PA R T 3 •

137

18k yellow gold earrings with 49.11 cts. t.w. malachite, 4.29 cts. t.w. black onyx, and 1.32 cts. t.w. diamonds; $6,600; Doves by Doron Paloma; 888-663-6837; dovesjewelry.com

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1

STATEMENT EARRINGS Big, bold earrings made a strong showing on the runways and during awards season this year. Crescent-style hoops, gem-laden chandeliers, shoulder dusters, heavy metal chains, and links with pearls are driving avant-garde fashion jewelry. How does that translate to the fine jewelry world? Any variation on traditional shapes—hammered hoops or oversize pendants, for example—will work. In conservative Washington, D.C., Jim Rosenheim, chairman of Tiny Jewel Box, says you can play with traditional shapes, provided you give consumers something to support their lifestyle: “People want beautiful things they can wear when they’re dressed ­casually in jeans and T-shirts.”

For ­Joanne Teichman, ­co-owner of Ylang23, with stores in Dallas and Fort Worth, Texas, statement earrings can be as simple as piling baby hoops and studs on one ear. “If you don’t have enough ear real estate, get pierced!” she says. “And then get pierced again!”

4/10/19 4:21 PM

COU N T D OW N TO T H E SA N DS

Pompei collection medallion pendant in 14k yellow and white gold with 0.41 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,395; The Mazza Co.; 800-654-3400; mazzajewelry.com

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2

COINS & MEDALLIONS These throwback pieces—think chunky chains and Chanel belts of the 1990s reworked as necklaces—made appearances on every designer runway from New York (pearl-embellished gold coins at Oscar de la Renta) to London (edgy coins adorning body jewelry at Alexander McQueen). Picking up on the continuing popularity of charms, coins and medallions add another twist on the theme in the fine jewelry market. Kathy Rose, co-owner and co-CEO of Roseark in Los Angeles, can’t keep the line Stones of Character in stock. Designer Dani Michail takes coins from Italy and infuses them with images and gems, such as a design that juxtaposes Lady Liberty with a handful of diamonds. (Justin Bieber, Rihanna, and Charlize Theron are fans.) Coins and medallions also lend themselves to personalization, representing the wearer’s values or aesthetic. For Teichman, Foundrae’s Strength and Dream designs, spotted on Gwyneth Paltrow, have struck a chord. Customers, she says, will spring for “a piece that captures your heart and defines you.”

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• PA R T 3 •

3

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Platinum ring with 10.05 ct. pear-shape diamond and 0.23 ct. t.w. diamond melee; price on request; Rahaminov Diamonds; 213-622-9866; rahaminov.com

THE SOLITAIRE The classic solitaire topped ­jewelers’ must-have lists in 2018 and 2019—­representing a significant shift away from the ­stranglehold that halo settings seemed to have on the bridal ­category. Scott Udell, vice president of ­London ­Jewelers and Two by London in Manhasset, N.Y., said his open-to-buy this year has been buoyed by ­record sales last year. As a result, London is looking to restock core basics like diamond studs and tennis bracelets—versatile pieces that can be dressed up or down. With engagement rings, “We’re seeing brides go back to traditional, clean solitaires,” Udell says.

“Maybe there are diamonds down the sides of the ring, but nothing too ­over-the-top. Just clean basics.”

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4

Infinity bangle in sterling silver with 23.6 cts. t.w. sapphires; $4,200; Dilamani; 516-4666767; dilamani.com

SAPPHIRES Last year, emeralds joined the ­#MeToo and #TimesUp movements and enjoyed an uptick in sales after stars accessorized black dresses with green gems at the Golden Globe Awards. The trend appeared to ignite a renewed interest in precious gemstones in a rainbow of hues.

“A bright piece of ­color—whether

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pendant, charm, or earring—is hot and will make you ­happy,” says Teichman. Rosenheim also foresees a surge in color. Sapphires in yellows, pinks, and greens are a good bet, but if forced to choose one hue, he says a navy sapphire will forever be the classic ­go-to. “One truism is that blue always works,” Rosenheim says.

“We sold everything.”

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• PA R T 3 •

CHAIN LINKS

14k yellow gold chain; starting at $2,672 (depending on length); Herco; 415-543-1580; herco.com

5

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The demand for chain-link n ­ ecklaces has reached a fevered pitch, with fashion designers delivering the news in an exaggerated way. (See “Fall Fashion Faves,” page 128.) What that means to fine jewelry retailers is a demand for rectangular links, oval links, and a combination of sizes and shapes on one piece—the more asymmetrical and nonuniform, the better. ­TwistOnline and Twist stores in Portland, Ore., and Seattle are doing well with handmade gold chains by Rosanne Pugliese, ­Pascale ­Monvoisin, and Jane Diaz, while the Tiffany HardWear ­collection—in particular, edgy gold graduated link necklaces and ­bracelets—has been selling well at ­Net-a-Porter. Gemologist Stephen Silver, founder and CEO of Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry in Northern ­California’s Silicon Valley, advises his fellow ­jewelers to turn to the fashion runways for trend advice. “Clothing and jewelry designers have to look at each other pretty closely in the modern era,” he says. “Our industry would be making a big mistake if we weren’t paying attention to that.”

4/10/19 4:22 PM

PA RT 3 O F 6

J C K WO U L D B E N OW H E R E W I T H O U T T H E I N D U S T RY I N S I D E R S W H O H AV E H E L P E D T H E M A G A Z I N E A L O N G T H E WAY — B Y M A K I N G T H E NEWS, READING IT IN OUR PAGES, OR BOTH. SO WE ASKED 150 OF T H E M TO J O I N T H E D I A LO G U E A B O U T H OW T H E J EW E L RY BU S I N E S S H A S C H A N G E D O V E R T H E D E C A D E S A N D T H E R O L E W E H AV E P L AY E D I N T H AT E V O L U T I O N . H E R E A R E T H E T H I R D 2 5 .

150 Y EA RS 150 VO I C ES

by Brittany Siminitz

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4/10/19 4:24 PM

143 ••• “In the past, a family jeweler was looked upon as a ­professional, much like the family doctor, accountant, or attorney. He or she was a person you trusted for purchasing jewelry as well as for providing professional advice. Today, there are so many places to purchase jewelry that consumers are confused and more mistrusting. Jewelry has become more of a commodity.”

—JEFF COREY, co-owner and president, Day’s Jewelers

••• “I have been covering bridal jewelry for over 20 years, and the category has changed so much—especially the engagement ring niche. Back then, there were two setting types: Tiffany-style and filigree. Brilliant and princess-cut diamonds were the only two popular options. I believe the reasons for this were: (1) Guys were in charge of picking the engagement ring; and (2) most bridal jewelry ­designers were men. Today, women decide which ring they want, and women ­designers create an array of alternative ring styles. It has become much more fun to cover!”

•••

“It seemed crazy when JCK launched its trade show in Las Vegas. But the JCK show not only transformed jewelry trade shows, it also transformed trade journalism by providing a new revenue stream. The success of the trade show business allowed journalism to continue to thrive at JCK and to make the difficult transition to digital distribution.

I hope JCK’s tradition of excellence will continue for another 150 years.”

—CHERYL KREMKOW, founder and director, Citrine Media

—SEVERINE FERRARI, founder and editor, Engagement 101 and Propose Too

•••

2013 AGTA SPECTRUM-WINNING TWILIGHT BLUSH MORGANITE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, DALLAS PRINCE; CIRQUE SQUARE STACKING BANDS IN 14K GOLD WITH MIXED PRECIOUS AND SEMIPRECIOUS GEMSTONES INCLUDING SAPPHIRE, GARNET, IOLITE, AMETHYST, TOURMALINE, DIAMOND, TOPAZ, AND ZIRCON, JANE TAYLOR JEWELRY

“Many things impact our business, but our core mission has remained the same: We help our customers celebrate special moments in their lives. And jewelry captures a memory in such a unique way. I love wearing my mother’s pieces—it connects me to her. What other industry can create that magic?”

—KAREN GORACKE, president and CEO, Borsheims Fine Jewelry & Gifts

•••

••• “My first direct experience with JCK came in the form of Billy Furman, whose position was in sales but who did so very much more.

He connected people from all ends of the business, no matter how small, like my business, or large. Billy had a great talent for making everyone feel welcome and like they belonged to a big jewelry family. JCK is a ­pillar of this jewelry family.”

—JANE TAYLOR, owner and designer, Jane Taylor Jewelry

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“I published my first blog post on Gem Gossip in July 2008.

Most stores didn’t have their own website, let alone e-commerce. Instagram didn’t exist. I’ve seen such a transition with how consumers buy, search for, and seek out fine jewelry.

People are selling diamond engagement rings through DMs—mind-blowing, right?

I think it is just the tip of the iceberg.”

•••

“The ­jewelry i­ndustry is the most ­complex, unique, ­multicultural phenomenon in the world, and everyone involved respects each other for what they bring to the table. A handshake is still considered your bond.

I love this industry.”

—DALLAS PRINCE, owner and designer, Dallas Prince Designs

—DANIELLE MIELE, founder, Gem Gossip

••• “Throughout my time at JCK, I wrote a column for every issue entitled Counterpoint…focused on situations in the industry, and it gave me the opportunity to write for a respected, well-known industry publication. The seven years I spent with JCK were some of the most positive, productive, and pleasant years of my work experience.”

—FRANK DALLAHAN, copublisher, The Retail Jeweler; former publisher, JCK

4/10/19 4:25 PM

144 ••• “JCK is like the wise and wealthy aunt that shows up for Passover, having traveled the world. She doesn’t have to say a lot, but when she speaks, everyone listens.

She is class personified, and all of the young look up to her and emulate her. All the grownups continue to interact with her, as they have for years, to find new strategy and direction. JCK is a feminine spirit guide for the jewelry industry and the many people that make their careers in the business. JCK is zen.”

—MARTY HURWITZ, founder and CEO, MVI Marketing

•••

“JCK was my gateway into our industry, its personalities, its products and producers, and its issues. It led me into our industry and has remained a valued source of information for me during all of my career.”

—JIM ROSENHEIM, chairman, Tiny Jewel Box

••• “[Speaking] as a publicist and marketer, JCK is the leading media outlet for jewelry and watch industry companies to communicate corporate news to the jewelry, watch, and retail communities. Personally, I’ve loved forging ­longstanding relationships with the hardworking and talented editorial and advertising teams at JCK magazine.”

—JEN CULLEN WILLIAMS, ­managing director, Luxury Brand Group

••• “I remember the heady days during the jewelry industry’s most recent boom years, in the last decades of the 20th century. There would be customers eight-deep at the counters at Fortunoff stores during the holiday season. Today, those crowds are more likely to browse our inventory online before shopping in store. Luckily, fine jewelry is a category where seeing it in person and trying it on matters, so we do still get a chance to interact with a lot of customers in person. But we also communicate with them quite a bit on our social media pages.

It’s great to have one-on-one conversations online.”

—ESTHER FORTUNOFF, owner and president, Fortunoff Fine Jewelry

••• “I grew up in the jewelry business, watching my dad, Harold, buy exquisite pieces of jewelry. He wasn’t concerned with the cost and turn—if it sat in our inventory for a couple of years, oh well.

Today is different. Tying up big dollars in important pieces takes much more consideration. As we all know, profit margins have reduced considerably.

The internet has made the world a much smaller place, and we find ourselves in continuous discussion [about] how to grow our business.”

—CATHY TIVOL, owner, Tivol

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—RICHARD DRUCKER, founder and president, Gemworld International

•••

“I think the biggest change in the industry comes from social media and the digital age. The way we all communicated and interacted was completely different when I first started—I spent many days faxing press releases and insertion orders!

The way we market to consumers has changed, too: They want to be educated on the brand, but you have about 15 seconds to engage them.”

—KATIE KINSELLA MURPHY, owner and chief marketing officer, Kinney + Kinsella

•••

“One of the things I love most about our industry is the people and the passion everyone has for what they do. There are so many ­familyowned businesses passed down from generation to generation, and so many who, although they may change jobs within the industry, would never imagine leaving it. Although technology and trends change over the years, I love that the people and the passion for what we do have remained unchanged.”

—SARIN BACHMANN, event vice president, Reed Jewelry Group

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•••

“I pulled a JCK magazine from about 20 years ago off my shelf when I was preparing this to see how much has changed. It was a fun experience; one of my articles appeared. There was also some controversy being discussed in the issue on synthetic and treated diamonds—see, not much has changed. We still discuss the same topics, but with new technology and new information.”

4/10/19 4:25 PM

145 •••

••• “While I grew up the daughter of jewelers, my background was in public ­relations and marketing— what did I know about the jewelry industry? I learned by using the tools I had at the time, and JCK was one I leaned on most. I read the issues cover to cover. What I love about JCK today is that the publication has evolved so beautifully. People say print is dead—well, not when you create such stunning editorial! It’s modern, visually appealing—dare I say sexy, at times—and makes me fall in love with jewelry all over again with every issue.”

—JENNIFER GANDIA, co-owner, Greenwich St. Jewelers

“The industry has changed so much in the more than 20 years I’ve been active in it. Today, it’s all about innovation and creating a product that fills a need retailers didn’t even know they had.

The successful retail stores are the ones wise enough to realize that if they don’t modernize their store and selling strategies, they will not be around for much longer. They have to go after the business—nothing just comes to you anymore.”

—KENDRA BRIDELLE, sales ­director, Freida Rothman

•••

“JCK has meant the difference between success and failure for me. The information I gathered from JCK provided a blueprint on how to build a successful business. I devoured stories on how the most successful jewelers ran their businesses and applied their recommendations to my business. When we were expanding, I scoured JCK to learn from my peers and avoid their pitfalls. Even though we subscribe to many other trade magazines, JCK is always our go-to publication.”

—MARK MOELLER, CEO, R.F. Moeller Jeweler

••• “JCK is owner of a profound legacy—an enduring testament to American journalism in the jewelry trade. I am very proud of my time there, the beginning of my career. I can only hope that what we wrote about a few decades ago actually helped jewelers to survive and thrive. JCK has evolved: A new generation of editors consistently delivers a fresh, exciting look and manages to keep JCK as a must-have journal in stores at a time when so much information is available from so many diverse resources. Despite competition, JCK endures.”

•••

“JCK has been a mentor to me throughout my 49 years in the business.

They have held my hand when we were faced with challenges and changes.

They have also helped me stay on top of trends and new designers, so I can be an expert to my customers. Sissy’s Log Cabin has been known for having the latest in precious gemstones, metals, and designers. This was due to the information provided by JCK. They have been a trusted and reliable source to not only me, but to my team, so we can be better jewelers.”

—SISSY JONES, founder, Sissy’s Log Cabin

—ROBERT WELDON, director, ­Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center, GIA, and former JCK senior editor

•••

“JCK has always been at the forefront in covering the latest trends and up-and-coming designers.

Once print media started declining, they were one of the first in the industry that transitioned… starting the website, sending weekly e-mails, and making sure the news they shared was up-to-date.

Congratulations to JCK and the editorial team for always keeping the industry well informed and for keeping the content interesting.”

—NILESH SHETH, president, Nice Diamonds

••• “My career in this industry began over half a century ago in the back room of my parents’ jewelry store. I remember each month we would wait for the JCK magazine because it was the one source of up-to-date and reliable information. When a new issue arrived, we would pass it around, eagerly flipping through each page. Every copy was archived—my parents would even rip out certain articles and file them for future reference.

Years later, when I cleaned out my parents’ files, there were all kinds of articles from JCK that had been saved over the years.”

—KATHRYN KIMMEL, senior vice president and chief marketing officer, GIA

••• “I have been in the industry for 40-plus years. When I first started my business, the biggest obstacle to overcome was ­finding my voice in a male-dominated industry. Since then… many more female entrepreneurs have entered. Another ­important change has been the growth of a digital presence: It’s imperative that brands have an e-commerce platform and that they engage with customers through social media.”

—JUDITH RIPKA, chief designer, Judith Ripka Fine Jewelry

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•••

“I’ve been in this industry for 33 years. Let me say what hasn’t changed. Our industry, like many, is hit with tons of disruption, and it always survives. Whether it’s Walmart buying Keepsake, Costco selling diamonds, big-box stores threatening mom-and-pop shops, TV shopping networks moving in, or laboratory diamonds taking on real diamonds—these are all things that have threated to corrupt or change our industry, yet we continue to adapt and move forward. We are lucky that many of the same people stay within the industry; we aren’t a huge one. We are small, strong, and we continue to fight through whatever disruptors come next.”

—PAT HENNEBERRY, founder and president, The Jewelry Coach

4/10/19 4:25 PM

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147

MAY 2019

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault

RARE VENEER

Chopard’s pig—and its intricate outdoor background— was decorated with a varnish that hails from the urushi tree, which grows in both Japan and China. Its resin is harvested once a year in small quantities, but has to sit for three to five years before it becomes a honey-textured lacquer, ready to be applied in ultrafine successive layers.

IN CASE The finished dials were sent to Chopard’s workshop in Fleurier, Switzerland, where watchmakers set them into super-slim cases forged from ethical 18k rose gold. The cases feature a transparent sapphire case-back that showcases the watch’s slender, 3.3 mm–thick L.U.C Caliber 96.17-L movement.

WHEN PIGS ARE FLY

THIS LITTLE PIGGY

IN THE TR ADITIONAL Chinese zodiac calendar, the pig is a generous, fun-loving creature that symbolizes prosperity. But the spectacular swine decorating the new Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Pig timepiece could just as easily represent the pinnacle of horological craftsmanship.

The picturesque watch, created in a limited series of 88, was fabricated using Urushi, the ancestral Japanese art of lacquerware—under the watchful eye of Kiichiro Masumura, the most ­renowned Urushi artist in the world and a bona fide Living National ­Treasure in Japan. —EMILI VESILIND

The dials of all 88 Year of the Pig timepieces were crafted

by Urushi grand master Minori Koizumi in the Japanese city of Sabae, where artisans also cut and anchored pieces of meticulously shaped shell to make the design slightly 3-D. Each dial’s creation necessitated more than a dozen application stages, which included sprinklings of gold dust.

JCKONLINE.COM

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The Vault

GOLD

148

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

ANIMAL MAGNETISM WHEN LEEOR AH BETAN-Hartman, founder and designer of New York City–based jewelry brand Lulu & Shay, recently discovered that ­astrological signs have ­corresponding spirit animals, she was inspired to ­create talisman-like pendants ­depicting the protective critters, which include the bear, owl, raven, fox, and wolf. The ­resulting designs feel rustic, but—cast in rich 14k ­yellow, white, or rose gold—­undeniably upscale. “I was so intrigued by how well the ­descriptions of the animal ­personalities fit the people I know,” says Betan-­Hartman. “I created the collection to ­represent personal characteristics in a ­meaningful way.”

—EMILI VESILIND

MAY 2019

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HOT STOCK TIP

CURVA APPEAL Capricorn horse, Sagittarius owl, Scorpio snake, and Pisces fox pendants in 14k gold; $750 (sterling silver black rhodium chain) and $965 (14k gold chain); Lulu & Shay; info@ luluandshay.com; luluandshay.com

Satomi Kawakita Jewelry has thrown a kink into the classic stacking ring design. The dainty 18k gold Curva collection rings don’t layer in the usual way, like a roll of Lifesavers. Instead, they bow and arch on the finger, creating cool connections with positive and negative space.

“Before now I didn’t really like to see spaces between stacked rings,” says designer Satomi Kawakita. “Now I enjoy the beautiful spaces that curved, wavy bands can create.” —EV

(From top) Livia ring, $230; Ripple band, $300; Twisting band, $245; White Diamond Wave band, $2,170; Braided Eternity band, $285; White Diamond Ripple Half-Eternity band, $980; Wide Livia ring, $395, all in 18k yellow gold (also available in 18k rose gold and platinum); satomikawakita.com

RUSH JEWELRY ’S YSL-INSPIRED LINE! SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

4/10/19 4:28 PM

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The Vault

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‌DIAMONDS 20k yellow gold Me pendant with 0.24 ct. t.w. diamonds and red enamel, $6,000; 20k yellow gold Sorry Not Sorry pendant with 0.12 ct. t.w. diamonds and black enamel, $2,300; 20k yellow gold Censored pendant with 0.65 ct. t.w. diamonds and red enamel, $6,500; 20k yellow gold I Love Myself pendant with 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,900; 20k yellow gold FOH pendant with 2.78 cts. t.w. white diamonds, 0.4 ct. t.w. black diamonds, and enamel, $16,000; 20k yellow gold I Am pendant with 0.23 ct. t.w. diamonds and black enamel, $2,300; 20k yellow gold Bitch pendant with 0.72 ct. t.w. diamonds and 0.43 ct. t.w. red sapphires, $6,500; 20k yellow gold Whatever question mark pendant with 0.44 ct. t.w. diamonds, 1.05 cts. t.w. black onyx, and black enamel, $4,900; Coomi; concierge@coomi.com; coomi.com

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

WORD UP SOME OF THE most compelling contemporary jewelry designers are infusing their collections with political, personal, or cultural commentary. Designer Coomi Bhasin, for one, channeled frustrations with the feminine status quo for her latest collection, Uncensored—which features words and phrases including Warrior, Sorry Not Sorry, Uncontrollable, and Censored in bold designs rendered in gold, diamonds, and colored enamel. “As women, we’re told we’re not supposed to do certain things because they’re not ladylike—that it’s inappropriate to use the F-word or other swear words when we speak,” she explains.

“Well, you know what? I can say whatever I want.” And here’s the jewelry to prove it.

—EMILI VESILIND

HOT STOCK TIP

GALAXY QUEST Los Angeles jewelry atelier Spinelli Kilcollin has taken its famous interlinked Galaxy ring to the dark side with the Indra Black Gold Galaxy ring. The new design is made from a proprietary, heavier-than-gold metal composed of 18k gold mixed with palladium and other alloys that the brand invented to improve on black rhodium plating, which fades over time.

There’s no doubt—this heavy metal rocks. —EV

18k black gold and sterling silver ring with 1.4 cts. t.w. micro-pavé gray diamonds and sterling silver and 18k black gold connectors; $8,000; spinellikilcollin.com MAY 2019

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YELLOW FEVER! SEE jckonline.com/topics/diamonds FOR THAT AND MORE.

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18K 1.00 ct 1.50 ct 2.00 ct 3.00 ct 4.00 ct 5.00 ct

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3

POWERS UP What began as a custom project for Zionsville, Ind., retailer Robert Goodman Jewelers has blossomed into a new design, the Amphora ring, for artist Judi Powers.

“It was the dead of winter, there were three inches of snow in the backyard, and I was craving the wild colors of spring and summer,” recalls Powers, who turned to super-saturated, vibrant center stones.

“The citrine reminded me of daffodils and forsythia; the Uruguayan amethyst was the color of purple pansies; the peridot with rubies was like pink begonias; and the sphene was the color of summer grass.”

She’s already plotting Amphora rings with her signature pink and green tourmaline, and then…who knows? “I carry the setting with me everywhere I go in case I come across a stone that will fit in the ring!”

4

—MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

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CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

FOR THE PEOPLE DEBR A NAVARRO HAD worked in a jewelry store for 15 years when she saw Sharing the Rough, a documentary about mining in East Africa. The film motivated her to make a life-changing decision: In 2015, she visited Kenya and Tanzania with the filmmakers and, later that year, left retail in order to design her own eponymous line of jewelry featuring gems sourced from the region. “Understanding how it all begins added so much meaning to every piece of jewelry,” she says. “I felt compelled to tell that story.” Since her intercontinental leap of faith, Navarro has returned to East Africa three times to ­purchase gems—including tourmaline, tanzanite, iolite, aquamarine, garnet, spinel, MAY 2019

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ruby, and ­sapphire—directly from the miners.

In her new Watu collection (the name means “people” in Swahili), she pairs the stones with earth-toned diamonds and 18k recycled gold.

Five percent of each purchase goes to Gem Legacy (see “Causes to Celebrate,” page 78), which helps support mining communities in the region. “When the miners say, ‘What we really need is an air compressor to breathe down there,’ I can work toward that,” Navarro says. “And so can the consumer.” —VICTORIA GOMELSKY IT’S TURQUOISE SEASON! SEE jckonline.com/topics/coloredstones FOR THAT AND MORE.

1. Esther pendant with 12 ct. Tenda-cut scapolite and 0.25 ct. t.w. sand pavé; $3,410 (on black diamond bead chain, $2,750–$4,488); Debra Navarro; 316-871-0569; debranavarro.com 2. Debra earrings with 7.24 cts. t.w.

Tenda-cut pink tourmaline and 0.18 ct. t.w. sand pavé; $7,480 3. Vincent cocktail ring with 10.5 ct. green beryl and 0.26 ct. t.w. sand pavé; $5,480 4. Sune Erosion ring with 13.1 ct. Tenda-cut pink tourmaline and 2 cts. t.w. diamond and sand pavé; $9,900 5. Gee solitaire with 1.88 ct. pink spinel and 0.06 ct. t.w. sand pavé; $1,490

Amphora ring with amethyst in 14k green gold; $1,675; judipowersjewelry.com

Amphora ring with peridot and rubies in 14k green gold; $3,595; judipowersjewelry.com

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SPRING 2019

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A COMPLETE A-TO-Z GUIDE CROWNING MOMENTS IN M­ OVIES & TV PLUS: 5 DESIGNER DISCOVERIES

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GLOSSARY

A-B-SEA All the pearl news that’s fit to print, in alphabetical order

A

BY MARTHA C. WHITE

S JEWELRY TRENDS come and go, pearls remain a classic. But whereas previous generations might have been inspired by Coco Chanel or Audrey Hepburn, today’s ­fashion-forward consumers are eager for bold takes that flip the script on pearls as a traditional accessory.

Here you’ll find a glossary of everything you need to know about the luminous gems and today’s thriving pearl market.

A

AKOYA PEARLS, aka the classic white pearls beloved by earlier generations including your grandma. “The major thing is that akoya pearls are just starting to see their time again,” says Peggy Grosz, vice president of development for New York City–based Assael.

(Ear clips with 4.75 cts. t.w. diamonds and Japanese akoya pearls in 18k white gold; $32,000; Mindi Mond; 212219-3793; mindimondny.com)

B

BAROQUE PEARLS, characterized by irregular or even bumpy shapes.

“When you look at baroques, it’s just an amazing variation of shapes,” says Leonard Federer, partner at New York City’s Tri-Gem Pearls. “Visually, there’s an endless universe.” (Gulika ring with baroque pearl, rhodolite, and diamonds in rhodium-plated sterling silver and gold vermeil; Modern Moghul; 361239-8799; modernmoghul.com) SPRING 2019

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(Flower earrings with 38.39 cts. t.w. natural conch pearls and 0.46 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $46,862; Tara Pearls; sales@tarapearls.com; tarapearls.com)

D

DESIGNERS, who have taken to incorporating pearls on the catwalk in a big way. Boldface couture brands such as Stella McCartney, Miu Miu, and Valentino have been elevating pearls to high-fashion status during New York Fashion Week runway shows.

E

C

CONCH PEARLS, the pink, non-­ nacreous pearls produced by the queen conch. Julia Roberts wore conch pearl earrings to the 2019 Academy Awards.

They’re extremely rare, because they can’t be cultivated, and extremely ­expensive.

“One to 3 carats are going at wholesale for $1,500 to $2,500 per carat, 3 to 6 carats are $3,500 to $4,500 per carat,” says Ashwani K. Sethi, CEO of New York City–based Tara Pearls, adding that the very top quality can command an additional 50 percent.

EXTREME WEATHER, such as the typhoons that hit the pearl-producing areas of Australia—a top producer of the largest white and golden South Sea pearls—nearly five years ago, destroying many oyster beds. Because those pearls can take a number of years to grow to

their top sizes, the storms are having an effect now on ­availability and pricing. “There is a serious shortage of goods once you get to 16 millimeters and over,” says Gary Tarna, president of Los Angeles–based Hanadama Pearls.

F

FRESHWATER PEARLS, the most inexpensive type of pearl. Cultivated in a species of freshwater mussel, not oyster, freshwaters are largely farmed in China, where robust production is meeting an increase in demand. Eddie Livi, owner of DSL Pearl, says that for high-quality freshwaters, prices tend to JCKONLINE.COM

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G

GEMSTONES, which designers are pairing with color-complementary pearls to bring out their varying shades, Grosz says. For instance, a Tahitian pearl with a greenish tinge might be paired with a tourmaline or a green garnet.

(18k yellow gold ring with natural-color Tahitian cultured pearl and 5.73 cts. t.w. mint-green garnets; $24,800; Assael; 212-819-0060; assael.com)

H

HONG KONG, as in the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, held this year for the first time in tandem with the Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association and the Japan Pearl Promotion Society.

Today, Japan exports about 75 percent of its pearl production to Hong Kong, with demand fueled by growing interest among middle-class consumers in China and elsewhere in Asia.

I

INNOVATIVE TECHNIQUES such as faceting, inlays, and other unexpected ways to slice and dice a pearl to show off its beauty. Brands such as Melanie Georgacopoulos, Samira 13, and little h all play with variations on the theme (which experts say can be an excellent way to disguise imperfections in a lovely yet flawed specimen).

J

JAPAN, the traditional producer of akoya pearls. After a period during which the Japanese ceded much of the market to Chinese competitors, pearl industry pros say the country is once again the dominant producer of ­in-demand akoyas.

K

KURI BAY, where the modern pearl industry began, in remote Western Australia. The first farm for cultured pearls was opened in 1956 by a ­company run by Tokuichi Kuribayashi (for whom the bay is named).

L

M

MELO PEARLS, a vibrant and non-nacreous pearl variety produced by a species of sea snail. Look for these flame-hued beauties in high jewelry collections. (Necklace with detachable 16 mm Melo pearl and 15 mm white South Sea cultured pearl, not shown, pendants and 31.21 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum; $560,000; Mikimoto; 844341-0579; mikimotoamerica.com)

N

NUCLEATED, or how oysters are seeded to produce pearls. Freshwater pearls are usually tissue-nucleated, but a new technique pioneered by Chinese freshwater pearl producers uses beads instead. “The pearls are heavier and they’re sold by weight, and it gives you the ability to make them bigger and bigger,” says Fran Mastoloni, partner at New York City’s Mastoloni. The technique allows producers to create round freshwater pearls of much larger sizes.

“They used to be 6 to 9 millimeters.

Now they can go up to 15 millimeters.”

LONG STRANDS, which are an especially hot trend right now.

“We’re selling a lot of long strands between 28 and 38 inches—and sometimes much longer so you can triple it around the neck,” Federer says. The extra D.C. power player length means versatility for Nancy Pelosi ­consumers seeking a piece of

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jewelry they can put their own stamp on. (Endless-style 54-inch strand with 4.5 mm–9.5 mm black fresh­ water pearls; $275; Mastoloni; 800-347-3275; mastoloni.com)

OPTIMISM. While styles come and go, the extent to which pearls have been integrated into not only fine jewelry but also fashion jewelry and apparel gives them serious staying power.

“The pendulum has swung back, and it’s important for retailers to know that something this classic is going to remain for decades,” Grosz says.

P

POWER, as in pearls are the new jewel of choice for influential women from Washington, D.C., to Hollywood.

“Women of power wear pearls.” Grosz says. “There are pearls like crazy on the 30-somethings. You’re never overdressed, and they go with everything.”

Q

QUEEN ELIZABETH. The British monarch is hardly what might be considered a style maven, but her love of pearls has been picked up by a new generation of British royals and made fresh again. Prince William’s wife, Kate Middleton, and Prince Harry’s wife, Meghan Markle—fashion icons for a huge number of young women—are Pearl maven Kate Middleton

Strand fan Queen Elizabeth

(FROM LEFT) ALEX WONG/GETTY; KCG-178/STAR MAX/IPX/AP; MICHAEL DUNLEA/N&S SYNDICATION/AP

rise by about 5 percent on a year-over-year basis.

“Demand has risen a little bit,” he says, largely because the Chinese “are buying them before they get to Hong Kong,” where they ordinarily would hit the export market.

(8 mm–9 mm freshwater pearl earrings with 0.04 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $695; Maui Divers; 800-253-6016; mauidivers.com)

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being credited with helping to spark interest in pearls and to encourage younger women to wear them.

R

REGULATION. Last year, the Federal Trade Commission implemented a rule that requires manufacturers to disclose treatments to address pearl dyeing, just as they’re expected to do for colored stones that have been treated to achieve their hue. Manufacturers must now disclose treatments to both natural and cultured pearls if those treatments are not permanent, require special care, or affect the pearl’s value.

S

SOUTH SEA PEARLS. These are the ultimate pearls: the biggest, most lustrous, and most desirable. Supplies of smaller and medium pearls of both the white and golden varieties are

T

TAHITIAN PEARLS, which come in striking shades ranging from grays to purples to greens. When Harry and Meghan visited Fiji in October, the Duchess of Sussex was gifted a J. Hunter Pearls Fiji strand of pearls, whose rare and deeply multicolored hues caught the eyes of fashionistas worldwide. “When that happened, ­demand skyrocketed,” Grosz says. While the “Sussex Strand” would retail for up to $70,000, pearls from the South Pacific are available in far more democratic price points. “Other Fiji pearls can wholesale for $300 a pair. There’s a very wide range.” (India bracelet with 7 mm–8 mm Tahitian pearls in 18k white gold; $8,830; Tamara Comolli; bw@ tamaracomolli.com; tamaracomolli.com)

U

UPDO, as in the pearl-covered beehive hairstyle rapper Cardi B wore to the 2019 Grammys, giving the phrase crown jewel a whole new meaning. For more examples of ultraglam pearl hair accessories, consider Plutonia Blue’s boho-chic pearl hairpins or Ariana Grande’s Instagram selfies (where the singer braids pearls into her ’do).

V

healthy, while the runaway demand for golden pearls (which tend to be a few millimeters smaller than their white counterparts) in China has cooled a bit, bringing prices down by as much as 15 percent, according to Livi. (Silk collection 14k yellow gold ring with 10 mm–11 mm golden South Sea cultured pearl; $1,125; Imperial Pearl; kathy@ imperialpearl.com; imperialpearl.com) SPRING 2019

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VERSATILITY. Designers are moving beyond the red carpet and runways, incorporating pearls into their collections in new and striking ways.

“Life is becoming more casual,” Grosz says. “Smaller pearls are wearable”—for instance, Lizzie Fortunato’s pearltopped hairpins—and even larger ones can be found in all kinds of accessories.

W

WHITE SOUTH SEA PEARLS, the world’s largest, with specimens up to 20 mm. But such sizable beauties are more

and more rare, Tarna says, due to growing demand and lowered production as a result of catastrophic weather events.

“In white South Sea pearls, larger sizes and especially better qualities are very scarce and will probably be that way for the next year or two,” he adds. (Earrings with 12 mm–13 mm South Sea pearls and 1.3 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $8,000; Yoko London; 212-8199400; yokolondon.com)

X

X-RAYS, aka microradiography.

According to GIA, this is the only ­noninvasive way to see inside a pearl; it can be used to separate natural-color from treated-color pearls and to determine if a pearl is natural or cultured.

Y

GENERATION Y, which is driving much of the interest in pearls right now. From catwalks to Instagram, there’s no shortage of platforms for showing young millennial women how to wear pearls. Plus: Pearls are an increasingly affordable luxury, thanks to the abundance of smaller specimens on the market and the willingness of customers to embrace the organic imperfection of baroque gems.

Z

ZEITGEIST. “Pearls have been doing extremely well over the last two years, and they look to be doing ­extremely well this year,” Mastoloni ­concludes. “They’re delivering value again, and fashionability.”

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY

BY GAVIN O’NEILL Hair: Sasha Nesterchuk/Bumble and Bumble, Kérastase & Hot Tools Makeup: Bobby Bujisic Using MAC Cosmetics/Judy Casey Stylist: Nadia Rath/ Factory Downtown Manicurist: Roseann Singleton Using Chanel/Art Department Model: Yada Villaret/Wilhelmina Bodysuit: Bershka

White South Sea and Tahitian pearl necklace (in hair) in 18k white gold with 1.8 cts. t.w. diamond clasp, $54,000, DSL Pearl, 212-575-9127, dslpearl.com; 18k gold–plated brass earrings with green amethyst, freshwater pearls, and Swarovski crystals, $795, Iradj Moini, 212-594-9242, iradjmoini.com; 18k rose gold ring with black South Sea pearls, $1,980, Alessandra Donà at Gioielli Group, 914-289-0206, alessandradona.com; 18k yellow gold Multi Tahitian Bubble pearl ring, $10,200, Assael, 212-8190060, assael.com; 10k yellow gold cuff ring with Tahitian black pearl and 0.05 ct. diamond, $800, Hirotaka, 81-36-256-9617, hiro-taka.com; 18k white gold ring with Tahitian keshi pearls and 0.24 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,200, Baggins, 213-624-2277, bagginspearls.com; Tahitian and South Sea pearl ring in 18k gold with 0.97 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,300, Daniel Dilman, 800-732-7522, danieldilman.com; white South Sea and Tahitian pearl bangle in 18k white gold with 1.03 cts. t.w. diamonds, $7,200, DSL Pearl

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Sorrento collection Deco four-row necklace, $3,815, Deco seven-row collar necklace, $7,360, with 4 mm–5 mm freshwater pearls and diamonds in 18k white gold; Mastoloni; 800347-3275; mastoloni.com SPRING 2019

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B E T W E E N D OW N TO N A B B E Y , T H E C R OW N , A N D T H E FAV O U R I T E , C O S T U M E D E S I G N E R S A R E MORE ENAMORED THAN EVER WITH PEARLS— WHICH MEANS IT’S THE PERFECT TIME FOR J E W E L E R S T O C A P I T A L I Z E O N P O P C U LT U R E ’ S OBSESSION WITH THE CLASSIC GEM

by Amy Elliott

THE CROWN: COURTESY NETFLIX (3); GUARD: FOTOVOYAGER/E+/GETTY; BIG BEN: NERTHUZ/ISTOCK/GETTY

PEARLS ON FILM

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THE FAVOURITE: © TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX FILM (2); ELIZABETH: THE GOLDEN AGE: UNIVERSAL/EVERETT

PEARLS 13

P

EARLS ARE SO timeless that touting their trendiness may seem ­counter to their nature—unless you hope to sell more of them. The ­jewelry industry is officially having a pearl renaissance, a flame fanned by the appearance of pearl jewelry on fashion runways, in hit TV shows (Netflix’s The Crown) and feature films (Crazy Rich Asians, The Favourite), and among a crop of designers who are reinventing the classics.

“Any film that’s come out [referencing] Jackie Kennedy has spurred interest in pearls,” says Beth Bernstein, ­jewelry author, historian, and ­founder of the online magazine BeJeweled. “The same is true of movies about Chanel, who mixed pearls with other chains and gemstones.”

Likewise, Daphne Lingon, head of jewelry for Christie’s Americas, has ­observed younger collectors cultivating an interest in pearls—and contemporary jewelry designers incorporating the gems in innovative ways. “I do think there is some correlation with period dramas in films and television,” she says, “as viewers are exposed to more historic costumes, accessories, and jewelry.”

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Elixir d’Amour necklace with South Sea pearl, 14.45 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 5.24 ct. andesine in 18k white and yellow gold, $272,000, Jewelmer, franck.ferrari@jewelmer. com, jewelmer.com; antique brooch/pendant with 47 ct. blue sapphire, 18.1 cts. t.w. diamonds, and pearls in 18k gold and silver, $800,000, Assael, 212-819-0060, assael.com

PULLING STRINGS Pearls have a long history on the big screen (see “Highlight Reel” sidebar).

How do they end up in a movie to begin with? Credit the costume designer, who is well aware that his or her choices may influence trends. At the moment, pearls are most visible in historical films and TV shows, but pulling pieces for such productions isn’t always a case of sourcing antique jewels or replicas.

“Even in a period piece, it helps to slip in elements that look right in the present-day time period,” explains Jojo MacDowall, a stylist who has worked on films such as Tully and Cold Pursuit and innumerable TV shows.

“Otherwise it can look too much like a costume and less like a real, relatable character.”

When choosing jewelry for an actor to wear, MacDowall considers ­ questions such as where the character ­acquired the piece and its meaning in the story. “I consider it part of my job to source pieces that are on the cusp of fashion so that when the show comes out, the look is fresh and current,” SPRING 2019

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HIGHLIGHT REEL A LOOK AT PEARL JEWELRY ’S MOST MEMORABLE—AND INFLUENTIAL—ON-SCREEN APPEARANCES

REAR WINDOW (1954)

As fashion editor Lisa Fremont, future princess Grace Kelly had a luminous presence in the iconic Hitchcock film, aided by a striking string of pearls and a multistrand charm bracelet.

BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S (1961)

More than 50 years after this beloved movie’s release, women of all ages continue to be enchanted by Audrey Hepburn as the glamorous Holly Golightly wearing piles of pearls in the now-iconic opening scene.

THE BUSINESS OF DESIRE While the world of film and television can spark major fashion trends, does the current on-screen ­popularity of pearls have the power to create a consumer craze? “People seeing The Favourite ­already know how they feel about pearls,” says Aja Raden, author of the best seller Stoned: Jewelry, Obsession, and How Desire Shapes the World. “They have them, or they want them, or both. For instance, I left The Favourite ­thinking, ‘I should restring one of my really big pearl necklaces like that, to tie in the back with ribbon.’ ” Indie films like The Favourite, ­however, are unlikely to do for pearls what, say, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes did for gemstone parures, what Titanic did for heart-shape blue pendants, or what Breakfast at Tiffany’s did for ­oversized, multistrand pearl necklaces with ­jeweled clasps. “They’re not big enough movies with a wide enough reach or a lasting enough c­ultural SPRING 2019

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impact to move the jewelry market,” Raden says. “They’re not iconic enough to inspire mass emulation.”

Fair enough, but savvy retailers can still cast pearls as something newly desirable and relevant by tying them to a larger cultural moment—one that speaks not only to the romance and ­allure of vintage style but also to the idea of women in power, ­including the queens, princesses, and ­fashion icons who have been wearing them for centuries. “Emphasize the ­association with royalty,” Raden says of pearl jewelry. “In many times and places, only monarchs were allowed to own them. The appeal of pearls has always been timelessness and exclusivity and, frankly, that they’re a class ­signifier. Remember that you’re selling an ­heirloom, something priceless and rare.”

SEIZING THE MOMENT The challenge for retailers is to acknowledge the current pearl re­ naissance—and even use it to market their pearl assortment—while not ­detracting from the qualities that are

THE GREAT GATSBY (1974)

Cartier provided the jewels for this film, which caused swingy, opera-length strands to make a comeback. Mia Farrow even appeared on the cover of the very first issue of People magazine, dressed in character as Daisy Buchanan with one of those pearl necklaces in her teeth.

TIN CUP (1996)

Late 1990s jewelry sales were dominated by a gazillion different versions of the necklace—a Wendy Brigode design with small pearls placed at widely spaced stations on a silk thread—sported by Rene Russo in this film about golf and golfers.

ELIZABETH (1998) Star earrings with 10.7 mm gray Tahitian pearls and 0.5 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $4,200, Sandra Dixon Studios, sandradixon studios@gmail.com, sandradixonstudios.com; Three Graces talisman on necklace of 7 mm freshwater pearls, $480, Pyrrha, sales@pyrrha. com, pyrrha.com

Cate Blanchett nailed her portrayal of the famous Tudor queen in a wardrobe that included myriad pearl headdresses and sumptuous pearl-strewn gowns and robes, worn with the grace and confidence of the monarch herself.

ELIZABETH: THE GOLDEN AGE (2007)

Italian jeweler Percossi Papi provided the jewelry for this sequel (also starring Blanchett), much of it featuring or accented with pearls. Alexandra Byrne went on to win an Oscar for her costume design.

DOWNTON ABBEY: PBS/PHOTOFEST; THE GREAT GATSBY: (MULLIGAN) WARNER BROS. PICTURES/EVERETT; (FARROW) EVERETT; MORGAN 4/4 80TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION CAR: MORGAN-MOTOR.CO.UK

MacDowall says. “Hopefully, people will see these looks and love them and emulate them in some way.”

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DOWNTON ABBEY (2011)

Chronicling post–Edwardian era fashion and the Art Deco stylings of the Roaring ’20s, the PBS drama series dangled innumerable pearl necklaces and earrings in front of a massive viewership during its six-season run.

A feature film based on the show is slated for release in September.

THE GREAT GATSBY (2013)

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by an all-encompassing film/fashion/ collectibility/historical wave as it ­relates to pearls,” says Peggy Grosz, vice president of development at pearl specialist Assael.

Bernstein suggests creating inspirational displays based on current or classic films that involve pearls to draw the customer in and add allure to the product. “You can also splice some ­videos of favorite movies and the pearls shown in them and have them playing on screens in the background of your store and then point out something similar from your collection,” she says.

And later this year, when the Downton Abbey movie comes out?

Make sure you have skin in the game.

A party themed around the release of the film would be a great way to kick off a pearl event. “In the trailers, I have seen Maggie Smith wearing pearl earrings and other actresses wearing pearl necklaces,” Bernstein says. “The film starts in 1927, so there will definitely be pearls to be seen—and stores can start to promote it now.”

THE CROWN (2016)

It’s impossible to watch any episode of this popular Netflix show without noticing—and coveting—the array of pearls worn by Claire Foy as Queen Elizabeth II and Vanessa Kirby as Princess Margaret. Season 3, currently in production, will star Olivia Colman (a recent Oscar winner for her portrayal of Queen Anne in The Favourite) as Elizabeth.

CRAZY RICH ASIANS (2018) Earrings with sapphires, pearls, and micromosaic of seed pearls in gold-plated silver, €390 ($438), Percossi Papi, percossipapi@ percossipapi.com, percossipapi.com; Lydia pendant with large freshwater pink pearl in 22k peach gold and diamonds on 18k pink gold enhancer, $3,960, Lika Behar, likabehar@likabehar. com, likabehar.com

Pearl and diamond earrings designed by Mouawad played a pivotal role in the life of Gemma Chan’s character, Astrid—not to mention the one-of-a-kind multistrand pearl, emerald, ruby, and diamond necklace that Michelle Yeoh’s character, Eleanor Young, wore as her family’s formidable matriarch.

THE FAVOURITE (2018)

Pearl jewelry appeared throughout this film about Queen Anne’s love life circa 1708, with all manner of chokers and drop earrings adorning the central characters. Can an indie movie spark a demand for pearl jewelry on a macro scale? Probably not, but it may well prompt pearl sellers and designers to use their Favourite looks as inspiration.

TIN CUP: WARNER BROS./EVERETT; REAR WINDOW AND BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S: EVERETT

essential to pearl jewelry: classic elegance, ­femininity, and versatility.

“There’s a neutrality to pearls that makes them the ultimate for blending, either with the wearer’s skin tone or mixed with other jewelry styles,” says Diana Singer, owner of Abbott & Austin, an estate jewelry business in New York City. When it comes to selling, she says, customers “appreciate things being pointed out to them and emphasized. It’s good to be reminded that pearls have been around for centuries and have always been great, and now’s a great time to repurpose them and wear them in unexpected ways.”

Use your blogs, social media, and email newsletters to keep c­ustomers and clients informed about the cultural relevance of pearls by, for example, highlighting a movie like ­ The Favourite; reporting on a related event such as the recent “Jewelry: The Body Transformed” exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art; or delving into other timely topics such as female empowerment. “The more sophisticated jewelry buyer is ­affected

Baz Luhrmann’s reboot of the iconic Jazz Age story involved a collaboration with Tiffany & Co. that included authentic Art Deco jewels from the house’s collection and newly minted pieces inspired by 1920s-era archival designs, many featuring cultured pearls with diamonds.

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PEARLS 18

Electrum Waves Seafoam earring in 22k gold–plated silver with pink keshi pearl; $136 (sold singly); Pernille Lauridsen; shop@ pernillelauridsen. com; pernille lauridsen.com

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O C E A N ’S FIVE MEET 5 DESIGNERS WHO ARE GUARANTEED TO GIVE YOUR STORE A DOSE OF PEARL POWER

by Brittany Siminitz

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PEARLS 19

Sera Water Poison ring in 18k yellow gold with inlaid mother-of-pearl and large Tahitian pearl; $8,250; Harwell Godfrey; 646-745-6831; harwellgodfrey.com

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PEARLS 20

Signature 8 mm Tahitian pearl necklace in 18k yellow gold and diamond, tsavorite, and rhodolite clasp, with 18k black gold and amethyst add-on ring, 18k yellow gold and yellow sapphire add-on connector, and 15 mm peacock Tahitian pearl pendant with large dagger in 18k white, black, and yellow gold and diamonds; $23,085; Rosa Van Parys; 818-928-4430; rosavanparys.com

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PEARLS 21

Mono-earring in 18k rose gold with 10 mm–11 mm black South Sea pearl and 0.04 ct. rhodolite, €815 ($914); Monoearring in 18k rose gold with 8 mm– 9 mm and 10 mm– 11 mm white South Sea pearls and 0.04 ct. t.w. pink sapphires, €1,240 ($1,390); Alessandra Donà at Gioielli Group; 914-289-0206; alessandradona.com

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PEARLS 22

Flapper Girl medium hoop earrings with white seed pearls and moonstones in 18k yellow gold; £1,025 ($1,344); Sweet Pea Fine Jewellery; mail@ sweetpeajewellery. com; sweetpea jewellery.com

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PEARLS 23

GODFREY: ELLA SOPHIE

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2

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PERNILLE LAURIDSEN

HARWELL GODFREY

ROSA VAN PARYS

ALESSANDRA DONÀ

SWEET PEA JEWELLERY

After perusing Danish jeweler Pernille Lauridsen’s creations, you’re left feeling as if you just attended a gallery dedicated solely to the art of the pearl.

“I just think the pearl is one of the most beautiful jewels you can use,” she says. “For me, it’s highly feminine; the way that light is absorbed by the surface seems so delicate. Pearls are timeless and elegant, giving you so many possibilities to be creative, while still making a classic piece of jewelry.”

The ocean is a major muse for the designer, who has given her collections names such as Waves and dubbed her individual designs Mermaid and Pink Seafoam (to name just two). You can practically hear the sounds of the sea just by looking at them. But there’s a playful touch across her other collections as well; Ice Cream is an especially fun one, ­featuring gold-plated waffle cone pendants topped with baroque freshwater or Tahitian pearls in assorted shades (i.e., flavors of ice cream).

“I always find inspiration in the ocean and interior design,” Lauridsen says. “I’m looking for inspiration in my daily life, and things that catch my eye. I’m just often thinking of a new way to showcase my personal style into a piece of jewelry.”

Lovers of pearls and modern styles alike will get lost in the Copenhagen, Denmark– based creator’s fluid, squiggly lines, glistening organic pearls—freshwater, Tahitian, keshi, and a rare specimen called pipi shells—and clever ­additions of colored gems.

If “handmade in California” conjures images of breezy, easy-to-wear jewels, Lauren Harwell Godfrey is doing it right. The San Francisco– based founder/designer behind Harwell Godfrey—a blend of her maiden and married names—doesn’t work exclusively with pearls, but her pearl creations certainly leave a lasting impression.

Godfrey has worn many hats: After 15 years as an art director and creative director in the advertising industry, she followed another passion into the world of critically acclaimed and popular restaurants (think Chez Panisse), mastering the art of food.

Now, she’s, ahem, cooking up an amazing assortment of fine jewelry with Harwell Godfrey. Inspired by the ­power of crystals and their ancient history of healing, Godfrey designs pieces to connect with ­consumers not only on a visual level, but also on a spiritual one.

Geometrically inclined jewelry, often inset with gemstones, is a common theme in the line. A small—but powerful—selection of those pieces features big, bold pearls, such as the Sera Water Poison ring, a hinged, locket-style piece that positions a large Tahitian pearl atop a bed of inlaid mother-of-pearl.

“I believe consumers are ready to dust off their pearls and bring them back into fashion in contemporary ways,” Godfrey says. “It’s when pearls are being used in surprising contexts that they become exciting again.”

Specializing in one-of-a-kind creations, the Ecuadorianraised, Southern California– dwelling artist Rosa Van Parys is a whiz with detail, undoubtedly owing to her other career as an architect/interior designer. She characterizes her work as “elegance with edge.”

You get a sense that Van Parys is inspired by strong women by the look of her designs—even before visiting her website, which flashes the phrases She is strong!

She is smart! She is sexy! She is empowered! in big, bold letters. Taking design risks, or what Van Parys calls “fearless moves”—such as ­“combining a precious symbol of ­perfection and purity, like an AAA Tahitian pearl with a daring element like an ­embellished gold dagger”— pays off big-time.

Masterpieces with glossy pearls paired with daggers, horns, or spikes—drenched in glittering gemstones such as pink and yellow sapphires, tsavorites, and diamonds— catch the eye and capture the heart. Van Parys’ playful version of an ice cream cone pendant slathers a rich scoop of Tahitian pearl with multicolored sapphire and tsavorite (rainbow) sprinkles, topped by a ruby-­accented cherry.

“I totally feel that a large majority of younger generations have the misconception that pearls are for grandmas,” Van Parys says. “I want to change that with my pearl designs. I think every girl should own a strand of pearls, and I think mine make pearls current, fun, and edgier.”

Born and raised near Venice, Italy, Alessandra Donà is truly all about pearls: You’re hardpressed to find a jewel without one. The rare pieces that are pearl-free serve as accompaniments—stacking rings that mimic a larger ­design’s details, stud earrings to wear opposite a dangling pearl earring for an asymmetrical look.

“The pearls are among those things that Mother Nature incredibly donates us and are among the most ­fascinating subjects on our planet,” Donà says. “I ­exclusively use pearls from the South Sea, the most beautiful and rare pearl there is.”

Through her two collections—the rock star–worthy Friday Night and Timeless (described as “not classic” by the designer, despite its name)—Donà lets her pearls take center stage, using a minimalist approach and modern silhouettes that truly let the gems shine. Think hoop earrings dotted with brightly colored gemstones, capped off by a large pearl; stud earrings joined by a delicate chainlink ear cuff; a ­lavalier-style single-pearl necklace, oozing sex appeal. True, these may not be your grandma’s pearls, but, with their just-off-classic aura, someday, they’ll belong to someone’s grandma.

“In order to make live ­objects or creations linked to the past and to a classical lifestyle,” Donà says, “it is necessary to continuously reinterpret the objects so that they keep intact the attractiveness for people living in our contemporary world.”

From a Flapper Girl Pearl collection to classic black-andwhite pearl styles, clustered pearl pieces, and one-ofa-kind designs, Siobhan O’Neill, the designer behind Sweet Pea Fine Jewellery, knows her way around the glistening gem. “I have always loved pearls, even my grandmother’s!” says the Londonbased O’Neill. “The fact that it has been drawn from the sea and formed by a living creature is enthralling to me.”

A look over her rich lineup is like a journey through time; starting in the 1920s, continuing through the ’70s, to the here and now, there’s a nod to many eras.

“I love vintage clothes and accessories, architecture, and old black-and-white films,” says O’Neill, who set up her own business in 1991 after creating one-offs for the ­runways of designers including John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.

Yet many of O’Neill’s creations possess an undeniable timeless quality: sweet necklaces strung with a single pearl, hoop earrings nestled with a pearl in their arcs, seed pearls grouped along a chain, and stacking rings adorned with dangling pearl charms, all set in rich 18k gold. It’s perhaps her one-of-a-kind pieces—where she dares to facet her pearls, creating a look that puts a glossy pearl in a textured net—that are the most striking.

Plus: Any Sweet Pea piece can be effortlessly layered, lending a more-the-merrier vibe to her entire line.

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

PEARLS 24

Mastoloni

415 Madison Ave. New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-757-7278/800-34-PEARL Fax: 212-582-0884 Email: info@mastoloni.com Website: mastoloni.com Mastoloni Fireball pendant features a white baroque freshwater pearl with 14k yellow gold decorative prong hung from a 14k yellow gold 28-inch chain.

MSRP: $1,595

Baggins

510 W. Sixth St., Suite 416 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-624-2277 Fax: 213-624-2278 Email: bagginsinc@sbcglobal.net Website: bagginspearls.com Baggins’ gorgeously delicate, 14k YG, WG, and RG teardrop earrings feature 8–9 mm Tahitian or akoya cultured pearls and are set with 0.32 ct. t.w. rose-cut and round brilliant diamonds.

Hanadama Pearls

1248 Bel Air Road Los Angeles, CA 90077 Tel: 310-440-2159 Fax: 310-476-2756 m Email: info@hanadama-cfp.com Website: hanadama-cfp.com Hanadama: Literally, spherical flower. In the pearl world, the cream of the crop! Herein lies 56 years of tradition.

We exclusively inventory higher and top quality.

Hanadama Pearls, your South Sea specialist.

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Galatea Jewelry

by Artist

Tel: 909-592-1837 Email: info@galateausa.com Website: galateausa.com The Bible Pearl™ from Galatea is the only jewelry that contains the complete Bible, accessed with NFC technology and the Galatea Momento app. Available in 14k gold or sterling silver with freshwater pearls and lab-grown diamond druzy.

SF Pearls & Jewelry Mfg.

38 W. 48th St., Suite 201 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 401-263-6196 Email: info@epearlfarm.com Website: epearlfarm.com; wishpearlwholesale.com Wholesale Wish Pearls and cages, all kinds of pearls, and pearl jewelry.

We manufacture silver, gold, and lab-grown and natural diamond jewelry for pearls and diamond rings. JCK Las Vegas Booth 47090

Assael Inc.

589 Fifth Ave., Suite 1154 New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-819-0060 Fax: 212-764-1965 Email: info@assael.com Website: assael.com With a passion for innovation and respect for the sea, Assael presents new collections of rare South Sea, akoya, and Tahitian pearls, plus North America’s foremost selection of precious gem coral. Featured: Tahitian natural color cultured pearls with carved jadeite, and Tahitian stilettos with unheated tanzanite.

SPRING 2019

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY JCK NEWS DAILY – A ROUNDUP OF OUR BEST STORIES DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX EACH DAY. Breaking news, industry insights and practical advice for the jewelry trade.

With all original, not aggregated content, the JCK News Daily newsletter is the industry’s true, business-to-business news source.

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92 out of 100 Polish Diamonds in the World comes from India & BHARAT DIAMOND BOURSE is the address for this.

Diamantaires from all over the world are invited to witness the largest collection of polished diamonds in all shapes, color, sizes & prices, VISIT

BHARAT DIAMOND th

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14 to 16 October, 2019

Bharat Diamond Bourse(BDB) Complex, Mumbai, India Key Attractions Connect to 5000 BDB Traders Complimentary Hotel Stay for Selected Buyers Making Diamond Business Successful through BDB Platform

Register at : www.bharatdiamondweek.org Or Drop an Email on shows@bdbindia.org or Call :+91 7738897022

183

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MAY 2019

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

Show biz RETURN TO SPLENDOR

Luxury is back at its original home, The Venetian, from May 29 to June 3

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BY EMILI VESILIND

IRST LOOKS AND early access. In fine ­jewelry retailing, both can offer big advantages for small businesses. Which is why retailers in the know have flocked to Luxury by JCK since the trade show debuted in 2000 in a series of hotel suites at The Venetian in Las Vegas.

“Luxury is the opportunity to see what’s new before everyone else does,” says Sarin Bachmann, event vice president of JCK Las Vegas and Luxury. “It’s the thing our retailers cite as the number one reason they come to the show.”

The intimate-feeling show has grown substantially over the past two decades, but its mission of showcasing a thoughtfully curated mix of exceptional fine jewelry collections hasn’t wavered an iota. And this year, after many years at Mandalay Bay, Luxury is returning to The Venetian— echoing JCK Las Vegas’ 2019 return to its original home, the neighboring Sands Expo & Convention Center.

Luxury will feature approximately 250 exhibitors and, as usual, will be invitation-only for its first two days,

May 29–30, before opening to all JCK Las Vegas attendees through the close of the show, June 3.

To make navigating the two shows more convenient, part of Luxury will extend onto the JCK show floor: “There will be an air wall, and on Luxury days it will be secluded and private and on JCK Las Vegas days it will come down,” Bachmann explains.

Luxury attendees are invited to the show’s scrumptious breakfasts on Wednesday (May 29) and Thursday (May 30); Wednesday’s breakfast will feature dynamic keynote speaker Scott Stratten, president of Un-Marketing, an innovative social and viral marketing agency. Thursday’s breakfast will include Luxury’s annual awards program, which this year will also showcase awards of appreciation surrounding the show’s 20th occasion.

And there’s a big bash planned! Luxury will take over pool nightclub Tao Beach on Thursday night to toast its two decades in the industry. Musing on how the show’s changed since its inception, Bachmann says Luxury is ever evolving “into what the industry needs it to be.” And, she adds, “I love seeing it come to life every time. It’s great to be able to deliver what people want.”

Shakti Mandala pendant with 28.64 ct. chrysoberyl, 1.96 cts. t.w. Brazilian Paraiba, 1.75 cts. t.w. green tourmaline, and 2.43 cts. t.w. tsavorite garnets in 18k gold, $200,000; Featherette necklace with 15.88 cts. t.w. bezel-set blue-green lagoon tourmaline in 18k gold, $13,000; Erica Courtney, 323-938-2373; ericacourtney.com

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Show Biz

BEST T IN N SHOW

WORLD TRADE CENTER From Feb. 26 to March 4, the hong Kong jewelry shows saw record attendance from a coterie of global buyers

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

T

Orchid pendant with 18 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; price on request; Jewellery Theatre; info@jt-eu.com; jewellerytheatre.com

HE HONG KONG International Jewellery Show and the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem, and Pearl Show, underwritten by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), wrapped in early March, attracting a total of 4,600 exhibitors and a record 90,000 buyers from 141 countries (up 4 percent from last year).

Benjamin Chau, deputy executive director of the HKTDC, admitted that the industry faces an uncertain global economy, thanks to the U.S.– China trade battle, but that jewelers have been enhancing their design and research and development capabilities in recent years, which helped attract buyers. “There was a satisfactory growth in attendance from emerging markets such as mainland China… and Asian countries such as the Philippines, Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia,” he said.

Creativity abounded at the twin shows, from jade-encrusted butterflies and dragonflies at Dawn Jewellery to the delicate bouquets of 18k gold, rubies, and emeralds at the year-old Maison Guan. Foo Hang Jewellery, one of Hong Kong’s largest diamond rv purveyors, reported selling 1 million Hong Kong dollars’ worth of jewelry ab (about $127,000) on opening day.

A Anecdotally, JCK found that while thee ttrade situation was top of mind, atten n attendees didn’t seem undone by it.

HKTDC conducted an on-site survey, interviewing 1,347 exhibitors and buyers to gauge their business expectations for the future. Some 80 percent were optimistic or neutral about the prospects of mainland China and the United States resolving trade issues.

As for what’s trending, most respondents expect fashion jewelry to have the greatest market potential (71 percent), followed by designer jewelry (67 percent), bridal jewelry (64 percent), and precious jewelry (62 percent).

For the first time, the shows collaborated with a partner country, Japan, as well as the Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association and the Japan Pearl Promotion Society. “About 75 percent of our pearls are exported to Hong Kong,” said Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association president Yoshihiro Shimizu. “It is a very important hub for selling pearls.”

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22 ANNUAL ND

MAY 27-30, 2019 SHOW HOURS Monday-Wednesday: 10 am-6 pm Thursday: 10 am-4 pm

Kick Off Las Vegas Jewelry Week At The GLDA Gem & Jewelry Show At The Mirage Hotel & Casino. Find A Huge Selection Of Gemstone & Jewelry Dealers From Around The World!

Complimentary Refreshments Daily & Special Mirage Hotel Rates! Starting At $78 A Night! (Mon-Thurs)

(301) 294-1640 • www.GLDA.com • info@glda.com Show Address: Mirage Hotel & Casino, 3400 S Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas, NV 89109

The Global eCommerce Leader 179 million active buyers worldwide Ebay.com/jewelrywatches Visit ebay at JCK Talks in Las Vegas, Saturday, June 1, 4-5:30pm For inquiries please reach out to ehaikara@ebay.com

187

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MAY 2019

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME TALK TO THE SCREEN

It’s easier than ever to communicate with your customers, on any platform you like

S

MARTIN BARRAUD/CAIAIMAGE/GETTY; COURTESY HOOTSUITE

BY EMILI VESILIND

OCIAL MEDIA C ­ ONSULTANTS constantly advise corporate clients to pay more attention to the “social” than the “media” in their online strategies.

After all, it’s not the size of a brand’s following on a channel that matters— it’s the quality. And to achieve a highly engaged social following, businesses need to do more than post regularly; they need to establish a dialogue with their clientele, one consumer at a time.

To help marketers, Facebook, Instagram (which is owned by Facebook), and Twitter routinely roll out new tools for brands to communicate with their current and future customers. Here are a few socially savvy ways—both established and new—to kick-start conversations with your followers.

DIRECT MESSAGES (DMs) Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter all offer direct messaging, which is essentially emailing within the closed circuit of a network. Biggie brands monitor and manage these portals religiously, but it can be hard for small

jewelry companies to keep up with the steady drip of questions and comments from strangers. Managed wisely, direct messaging offers brands a powerful, personalized way to market events, sales, and other store happenings. If your Facebook page is a registered business page (and it should be!), you can create preset greetings and automated responses for your messaging that will remain active during off-hours.

INSTAGRAM VIDEO CALLS Instagram debuted one-on-one and group video calling—essentially its version of Apple’s FaceTime—late last year. The tool has been embraced with gusto by independent jewelry sellers who do lots of business on Instagram (think bench jewelers and Etsy designers). What’s the calling feature good for? Discussing and displaying jewelry to prospective buyers who have already been DM-ing you on Instagram.

DASHBOARDS Social media dashboards let you consolidate all your social feeds in one place and help you strategize posts, while also keeping your customer

c­ ommunications organized. (Among the most popular: Hootsuite and Loomly.) Twitter has its own, called Twitter Dashboard, which serves as a de facto customer service channel for many established retail brands, including Zappos. All dashboards corral questions and comments in easier-to-read grids and/or columns, and most show conversation history—a plus if you have multiple people managing your feeds.

Don’t be intimidated by a dashboard!

CALL-TO-ACTION BUTTONS Also known as CTAs, call-to-action buttons, which became available for all Facebook and Instagram business feeds last year, allow followers to buy product directly off a social post; call, email, or text a business; book in-store appointments; and RSVP for events— all from their own social profile. But CTAs don’t simply come in button form: Use them to engage followers with directives (e.g., “Tag the person this reminds you of”), quick polls, and questions to generate conversations.

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Tool Time

THE HE E This is definitely as close as we’ll get to a U.S. Open tennis championship.

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

CiTiZeN eCo-DRiVe BlUeTooTH WATCH Japanese watchmaker Citizen has debuted a new version of its flagship high-end connected watch—the Eco-Drive Bluetooth—inspired by tennis superstar and Citizen ambassador Naomi Osaka, who won the women’s singles title at last year’s U.S. Open with an Eco-Drive strapped to her wrist. The sporty new model, released in March in a limited run of 1,000, is impressively thin and packs 85 components into its 1 mm quartz movement. —EV What it does: The unisex model looks analog (there’s no digital screen), but notifies wearers of incoming calls, emails, and text messages via 15 exclusive sound options and the movement of the watch hands. It also boasts a smartphone finder, three alarm settings, and date and time synchronization.

What we liked: The smartwatch is one of the most lightweight hybrids on the market, and its vivid orange accents and strap, inspired

by Osaka’s “dynamic tennis style,” feel sporty yet sophisticated. The surface of the titanium case is five times harder than stainless steel, thanks to a proprietary hardening technology.

Best feature: Animating the model is Citizen’s cool Eco-Drive technology, a quartz movement powered by any natural or artificial light source—which means you have to change the battery only once a year, or every four years if you keep the watch in power-save mode. ($670; citizenwatch-global.com)

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

Rio GRANDe Hole PUNCH Tool Rio Grande’s new hole punch tool makes it easy to cut clean, round holes into leather watch bands. The 5-inch device comes with two sizes of punching pins that create 1.5 mm and 2 mm holes—and a small and light acrylic block that makes for an ideal work surface while protecting pins from damage and dulling. The high-quality hand tool is easy to use and master: Simply orient the punch vertically, hold the tip securely against the leather band, then strike the punch downward with your palm. Perfect perforations at last. ($19.99; riogrande.com) —EV

Rio Grande’s new hole punch was designed specifically for use with leather and is self-punching—no hammer required!

SOCIAL MEDIA BEHAVIOR TO AVOID! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SPRING 2019

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JCK’S SISTER SHOW TURNS 20

PLUS: 10 BRANDS WHO’VE BEEN THERE FROM THE START

LU X U RY

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cove coveR eR R Look Gemma earrings in 18k yellow gold with 2.1 cts. t.w. rainbow moonstone and 53.06 cts. t.w. green tourmaline; $10,945; Lauren K; 212-719-2067; laurenk.com

LUXURY

18k white gold necklace with 0.53 ct. t.w. diamonds and 59.2 cts. t.w. aquamarine; $26,500; Bellarri; 800-2550192; bellarri.com

LUXURY A celebration of JCK’s sister show as it heads into its 20th year

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY STAY CONNECTED WITH

JCKONLINE.COM

The industry’s go-to online source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry. JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.

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Bezel diamond necklace in 18k yellow gold with 1.72 cts. t.w. diamonds; $14,400; Erica Courtney; 323-938-2373; ericacourtney.com

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY HANNAH KHYMYCH Hair: FELIX FISCHER USING L’ANZA HAIRCARE/FACTORY DOWNTOWN Makeup: CAITLIN WOOTERS/ART DEPARTMENT Stylist: NINA STERGHIOU Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON FOR EMILIE HEATHE/ART DEPARTMENT Model: KINGA TROJAN/NY MODEL MANAGEMENT DRESS: MYRA SWIM

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Vahan, Alwand Vahan, and its Moiré Beading Reg. U.S. Pat. & Tm. Off. | Designs © Alwand Vahan Jewelry Ltd.

Celebrating

800.365.6101 | vahanjewelry.com | Made in the USA

LUXURY/JCK LUX 317

FACTS OF LUXURY LIFE

by Rob Bates

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LUXURY 9

D I D Y O U H E A R A B O U T T H E­ B L I N G E D - O U T G U I TA R ? O R T H E B L U E ICE CREAM CONE? OVER THE COURSE OF T WO DECADES, LUXURY BY JCK H A S F E AT U R E D A L OT O F L U X U RY A N D A T O N O F F U N . T H I S Y E A R ’ S E V E N T, W H I C H R U N S F R O M W E D N E S D AY, M AY 2 9 , T H R O U G H M O N D AY, J U N E 3 , I S POISED TO BE THE MOST LUXURIOUS— AND MOST EXCITING—EVER.

his year marks the 20th Luxury by JCK. (The first edition was in 2000.) From the start, the show has been about offering an elevated experience to select buyers and exhibitors, in a more relaxed environment than the main JCK Las Vegas show. (The first two days of Luxury are ­invitation-only; the last four are open to all JCK showgoers.) “It’s a nice way to ease into the JCK show,” says Sarin Bachmann, event vice president for the JCK and Luxury shows.

In honor of what Reed Exhibitions is calling the 20th anniversary of Luxury—though ­organizers admit there was a little debate about that, given that this year’s show marks 20 editions, but only 19 years—here are 20 tidbits about JCK Las Vegas’ smaller, ritzier, but at the same time somewhat more casual younger sibling.

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ALL SHOW PHOTOS: COURTESY OF JCK EVENTS; WINE: EHSTOCK/ISTOCK/GETTY

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This year, when Luxury and JCK Las Vegas move back to The Venetian and the Sands—following eight years at Mandalay Bay—Luxury will be located for the first time on the JCK show floor, as well as in the adjacent Venetian Ballroom and the ballrooms across the hall housing exhibitors such as Forevermark, Le Vian, Tacori, Takat, Tissot, and Verragio.

2 Last year, Luxury

was honored for “Best VIP Program”

by Trade Show Executive’s Gold 100 Awards.

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In 2018, the show debuted a design competition. The ­winners were: bridal, Imagine Bridal (retail partner: Mann’s Jewelers); ­finished colored gemstones, Bapalal Keshavlal (retail partner: Roberson’s Fine Jewelry); finished diamond piece, Shy Creation (retail ­partner: Sissy’s Log Cabin); design winner, Samuel Sylvio (retail partner: Jack Lewis Jewelers); high-end fashion, Spark Creations (retail partner: Borsheims Fine Jewelry & Gifts); and Luxury debut, Rahaminov Diamonds (retail partner: London Jewelers). This year, there will be a new category for the Design@ Luxury pavilion. (Pictured: Shy Creation’s Kathy Dayan)

AMONG THE FOOD ON OFFER this year: ice cream in a blue cone.

Reed Jewelry Group’s special events and conference director Kate Youngstrom says the cone has a “cognac blueberry flavor” and tastes “amazing and crazy.”

5 IN 2018, SHOWGOERS DRANK 75,000 CUPS OF COFFEE AND 6,500 GLASSES OF WINE.

PAST KEYNOTE SPEAKERS INCLUDE BRUCE, NOW CAITLYN, JENNER AND KATHY IRELAND (PICTURED).

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For its first three years, Luxury took place in the upstairs suites in The Venetian.

“Some people liked the suites,” recalls Bachmann. “But there was a bit of threshold resistance. After all, you were going into someone’s bedroom.”

Luxury plays a role in the book The Southern Education of a Jersey Girl: Adventures in Life and Love in the Heart of Dixie, by Jaime Primak Sullivan.

In it, the star of Bravo’s 2014 series Jersey Belle covered the show for a magazine, and romantic complications ensued.

11 LUXURY RECYCLES 60,705 POUNDS OF MATERIALS EVERY SHOW.

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ONE PARTICULARLY UNUSUAL VISITOR IN 2016: A BLINGED -OUT GUITAR, WHICH GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS OFFICIALLY DUBBED THE GUITAR COVERED WITH THE MOST GEMSTONES AND ZIRCONIA (MORE THAN 16,000, IN FACT). THE INSTRUMENT PROBABLY DIDN’T HAVE A LOT OF COMPETITION FOR THAT TITLE, BUT IT’S STILL IMPRESSIVE.

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In 2017, the show created Design@Luxury, a ­curated pavilion for high-end designers. This year, Design@Luxury is doubling in size and will feature ­approximately 20 jewelry brands, including Alishan, Dorian & Rose, Jennifer Dawes Design, and Just Jules.

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THE SHOW ATTRACTS RETAILERS AND EXHIBITORS FROM 46 COUNTRIES, INCLUDING THOSE COMING ALL THE WAY FROM SOUTH AFRICA, NEW ZEALAND, HONG KONG, AND JAPAN. JCKONLINE.COM

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LUXURY 12

13 IN 2018, LUXURY RECEIVED AN ESTIMATED 51,615 POUNDS OF JEWELRY.

You never know who you’ll 14 see at Luxury. Celebrities who have attended include Elizabeth Taylor, Pamela Anderson, assorted Dancing With the Stars pros and competitors (including Gilles Marini, pictured), and future first daughter—though no one dreamed it then—Ivanka Trump.

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For years, Luxury featured entertainment for exhibitors and retailers. Musical guests ­included such legends as the Pointer Sisters, Earth Wind & Fire, and the Beach Boys. Plus there were comics: Howie Mandel (pictured), who went over so well he was asked back; Dana Carvey; and Wayne Brady from TV’s improv comedy Whose Line Is It Anyway? Authors who have spoken at the show include Mark Victor Hansen (the coauthor of Chicken Soup for the Soul ) and Jack Mitchell, author of Hug Your Customers.

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This year’s keynote will be ­delivered by Scott Stratten, the head of UnMarketing. He will speak about how to “Stop Marketing and Start Engaging” on the morning of Wednesday, May 29.

The 2019 Luxury show will feature a wall that tells the story of the show and is designed to be Instagrammable.

There will also be an in-store experience station on the show floor with daily “activations” designed to give retailers ideas to take back to their stores.

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Luxury is a “really big shew.” For example, 2,700 slices of bacon were served to attendees during breakfasts in 2018.

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WHEN THE SHOW MOVED TO THE VENETIAN’S BALLROOMS IN 2004, ROBIN “LIFESTYLES OF THE RICH AND FAMOUS” LEACH (PICTURED WITH BACHMANN) DID THE RIBBON-CUTTING.

If all this has gotten you psyched to celebrate the 20th Luxury show, be sure to attend the anniversary shindig on Thursday, May 30, from 9 to 11 p.m., at The Venetian’s Tao Beach nightclub.

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Designs © MAKUR DESIGNS ®. All rights reserved. Made in the USA.

JCK LUXURY SALON #713 Toll-free: 877-77-MAKUR makurdesigns.com

@makurdesigns

LUXURY 14

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10x20

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T H E S E A R E T H E F O L K S W H O S H OW E D U P FOR LUXURY FROM THE VERY BEGINNING â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A N D H AV E B E E N T H E R E E V E R S I N C E .

C O N G R AT S TO T H E S E 1 0 B R A N D S O N T H E I R I M P R E S S I V E 20- S H OW S T R E A K.

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by Melissa Rose Bernardo

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1. Necklace and brooch with 12.69 ct. natural black pear-shape diamond, 3.55 cts. t.w. pear-shape and 1.14 cts. t.w. round diamonds, and 1.65 cts. t.w. green emeralds in 18k white gold; $80,000; Rahaminov Diamonds; 213-622-9866; rahaminov.com 2. Altalena dangle earrings in 18k yellow gold with 8 mmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;8.5 mm pearls and 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,605; Mastoloni; 800-347-3275; mastoloni.com 3. Royal T engagement ring in 18k rose gold (also available in 18k yellow gold and platinum); $6,690 (without center stone); Tacori; 800-421-9844; tacori.com 4. Firenze Enamel 18k yellow gold vermeil diamond X bracelet in Florentine finish with 0.67 ct. t.w. diamonds; $6,500; Henderson Collection by Lecil; 800-605-3035; wlhlimited.com 5. Capri collection ring with multicolored gemstones in 14k rose gold; $2,550; Bellarri; 800-255-0192; bellarri.com SPRING 2019

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6. Handcrafted bangles in 18k gold, diamonds, and enamel, some with 24k gold leaf; $1,749â&#x20AC;&#x201C; $2,959; Soho Jewelry; 212-219-3734; sohojewelry.com 7. Pendant with citrine, peridot, and diamonds in 14k gold on 16-inch chain; $1,330; PeJay Creations; 201-863-0006; pejaycreations.com 8. Tradition engagement ring with 1 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white and rose gold; starting at $3,950 (without center stone); Verragio; sales@verragio.com; verragio.com 9. Fancy pavĂŠ earrings with 32.39 cts. t.w. white and black diamonds in 18k white gold; $99,000; Siera Jewelry; info@sierajewelry.com; sierajewelry.com 10. Ring with 2.4 cts. t.w. round and rose-cut diamonds in 18k white gold; $11,900; Norman Covan; 888-977-9007; normancovan.com SPRING 2019

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Salon LUX1221 info@uneekjewelry.com | 1-888-BE-UNEEK | www.uneekjewelry.com

BGK Graphics Inc.

See you at the JCK LUXURY SHOW- LAS VEGAS May 29- June 3, 2019 Booth #LUX1033

98 Cuttermill Road, Suite 125, Great Neck, NY 11021 Toll Free: 800-Heskia1 (437-5421) • 516-482-8030 • www.almordesign.com • info@almordesign.com

BGK Graphics Inc.

See you at the JCK LUXURY SHOW- LAS VEGAS May 29- June 3, 2019 Booth #LUX1033

98 Cuttermill Road, Suite 125, Great Neck, NY 11021 Toll Free: 800-Heskia1 (437-5421) • 516-482-8030 • www.almordesign.com • info@almordesign.com

LUXURY 20

Ring with 1.32 ct. kite-shape alexandrite, 1.09 cts. t.w. round alexandrites, 0.32 ct. t.w. kite-shape diamonds, and 0.26 ct. t.w. round diamonds in platinum with black rhodium; price on request

DESIGNER PROFILE

TRUE COLORS

Omi Privé’s Niveet Nagpal is a gemstone guru turned award-winning jewelry designer

BY EVELYN CROWLEY

W

Ring with 10.23 ct. oval cuprian elbaite tourmaline, 1.54 cts. t.w. round Paraiba tourmaline, 1.23 cts. t.w.

French-cut diamond baguettes, and 1.36 cts. t.w. round brilliant diamonds in platinum; price on request

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ITH HIS CLOSET full of blazers and professional demeanor, jewelry designer Niveet Nagpal might be taken for a real estate executive or finance guy—were it not for a rather conspicuous brooch in the shape of a gecko that habitually clings to his lapel. “This is Alexis. She’s my signature piece,” he explains of the 18k white gold lizard, whose slender back is encrusted with alexandrite (her namesake) and who stares unblinking at him with tsavorite eyes and a flick of a ruby tongue, her legs wiggling slightly when he walks.

Alexis is the first piece that Nagpal kept for himself from Omi Privé, the jewelry line he founded in 2012, and she’s become something of a company mascot. “She’s in all our lookbooks,” he says. She always appears on the last page—a playful coda to a serious collection of sparklers.

As it happens, Nagpal was a finance guy, albeit briefly.

“I went to USC [University of Southern California] and studied business,” he says at his office in West Covina, a suburb east of Los Angeles where he grew up and now lives with his wife and two young children. His mother and father, Preeti and Omi, are the founders of Omi Gems, which deals in wholesale loose colored stones and is the 34-year-old parent company of Omi Privé.

Although passionate about gems since he attended his first trade show at the tender age of 6, Nagpal never gave much thought to joining the family business. Instead, he opted for a job at an investment firm after college. But a few months in, he realized it wasn’t for him. “I’m looking around and thinking, This doesn’t feel right,” he recalls. “It JCKONLINE.COM

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LUXURY 21

Ring with 9.34 ct. emerald-cut sapphire, 0.8 ct. t.w. round sapphires, 0.87 ct. t.w. trapezoid diamonds, 0.95 ct. t.w. carré-cut diamonds, and 2 cts. t.w. diamond baguettes in platinum; price on request

Pendant with 2.43 ct. cushion purple spinel, 0.26 ct. t.w. round alexandrites, and 0.02 ct. t.w. round diamonds in 18k rose gold; $6,800

“It’s all about the stones. Each one has its own unique personality. I just play off that.”

—NIVEET NAGPAL

Ring with 6.68 ct. cushion-cut imperial topaz, 1.2 ct. t.w. tapered topaz baguettes, 0.94 ct. t.w. round red spinels, 0.32 ct. t.w. round diamonds, and 0.01 ct. round alexandrite in platinum and 18k rose gold; price on request

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didn’t really occur to me how special the jewelry industry was until I ventured outside of it.”

Nagpal subsequently told his parents he wanted to work for them. They agreed—on the condition that he first get a graduate gemologist degree from GIA. “It was there that I learned the scientific side of the industry,” he says. “Things like mineral classifications and trace elements I’d heard about, but I didn’t really understand.” Nagpal joined Omi Gems in 1997, and he’s been there ever since.

The gem trade has many family dynasties, but the Nagpals’, which stretches back seven generations on Preeti’s side, is particularly impressive. As Burmese ruby miners in the early 1900s, they amassed a small fortune but lost it all during the 1940s, when forced to first flee Burma (now Myanmar) when the Japanese invaded and later India when the British withdrew. “My grandfather basically had a sachet full of rubies to his name,” Nagpal says. Eventually, the family rebuilt the business. In 1985, Preeti and Omi moved to Los Angeles and independently started Omi Gems. “My dad ran the business,” Nagpal says. “My mother was really about the stones. She got to be an expert on the slight variances of shade and clarity.”

Over the decades, Omi Gems moved increasingly upmarket, sourcing the finest stones and supplying them to premium retailers. Occasionally, Nagpal would be commissioned by a client to create a jewelry piece. But he harbored no aspirations of a career pivot. “I was a stone guy,” he says.

“I never considered myself a designer.” However, during the 2008 recession, piqued by what he considered a drought of quality mounts induced by the economic downturn, he began to think otherwise. “I’m looking at beautiful stones going into cookie-cutter mounts and I’m just like, This isn’t cool, these are my babies,” he says. “And that got me thinking, Well, what would I have done?”

In 2011, Nagpal submitted a diamond and sapphire bracelet he had made for a client to the American Gem Trade Association’s Spectrum Awards. To his surprise, it won. “They asked for our jewelry brand name,” he recalls.

“I said, ‘Well, we don’t have one.’ It was an awakening.” He introduced Omi Privé the following year.

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LUXURY 22

Ring with 2.03 ct. cushion red spinel, 2.72 cts. t.w. cushion red spinel accents, and 0.68 ct. t.w. round diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $32,000

Ring with 6.77 ct. oval mint garnet, 0.18 ct. t.w. round tsavorite, 0.79 ct. t.w. epaulet-cut diamonds, and 1.03 cts. t.w. round diamonds in platinum and 18k yellow gold; $62,000

Pendant with 4.32 ct. round rainbow moonstone, 0.28 ct. t.w. round alexandrites, and 0.02 ct. t.w. round diamonds in 18k rose gold with black rhodium; $9,000; Omi Privé; 877-OMIGEMS; omiprive.com

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As for his swift rise to become one of the industry’s most sought-after designers of colored gemstone pieces, Nagpal demurs, like a director ceding the spotlight to his stars. “It’s all about the stones,” he says. “Each one has its own unique personality. I just play off that.”

Back in his office, Nagpal plucks a diamond baguette necklace with cornflower blue sapphires from its stand and fastens it around my neck. The platinum frames sit coolly against my skin. “Every surface of our designs is finished,” he says. “For this, we took a lot of care in fluidity and comfort. You can see that it fits perfectly around your neck.”

We move on to a tray of loose stones: milky opals, brilliant pink tourmalines, emeralds the color of a freshly cut lawn.

“There are so many things that have to go right for a gem to even form. They are perfect storms of nature.” Nagpal holds a tangerine spessartite garnet to a desk lamp, and it dances with light. “My job is to respect their force and rarity,” he says. “I want to bring out the very best in them.”

Omi Privé offers both a signature collection and custom designs (the latter designated with a hidden piece of alexandrite). Everything is made to order in Los Angeles using techniques such as hand-drilled micro pavé and handdrawn wire. The stones are sourced from mines throughout the world and cut mostly in Bangkok. When they arrive, Nagpal will often recut them to his exacting standards.

He’s become especially partial to designing cocktail

rings—gobstoppers encircled with halos of ­glittering pavé stones. “It’s an issue,” he laughs. “I’ve been getting requests for more earrings and pendants.”

For the Luxury show this year, Nagpal will bring both loose stones and finished pieces. “I don’t think anyone does it the way we do—working as both the source and the designer,” he says. “A customer can choose to be part of things from the very beginning, from when we source the gems to cutting them to working one-on-one with me on a custom design.” Nagpal ensures those who don’t take part in its creation process still get a lesson in what makes a piece special. “I create a [written] story for each one,” he says of the Omi Privé collection, which is available at a handful of select U.S. retailers including Houston’s Thomas Markle Jewelers and Steve Quick Jeweler in Chicago. “It includes everything from the history of the stones to why I made certain design choices.”

Nagpal points to a photo on the wall. “That picture was actually taken right before our first Luxury show six years ago,” he says. It shows Nagpal and his father, who still comes to work every day, examining a sachet of sapphires on the kitchen table, while Nagpal holds his then 1-yearold son—three generations in one frame. “My son is now 7, and he loves stones and knows all about them. ­Hopefully someday he will join the business,” he says. “But if he doesn’t, that’s okay. Whatever makes him happy.”

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PRODUCT

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Arch Crown Inc. 460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Bar Code Technology Solutions for Jewelry Pricing! Print professional tags with or without bar codes. Arch Crown’s thermal transfer packages feature E-Class Advanced printer, Voyager MS9540 scanner, plus everything you need to print and scan tags using DataTagger, BarTender® for Windows®, or your software. JCK Las Vegas Booth 52033

Les Georgettes

by Altesse Tel: 718-360-2917 Email: contact-usa@lesgeorgettes.com Website: lesgeorgettes.com Facebook: @LesGeorgettesbyAltesseUSA Instagram: @lesgeorgettes_byaltesse Our customizable jewelry and accessories can be mixed and matched together! Les Georgettes by Altesse is a French registered and patented innovative concept that combines custom jewelry with interchangeable and reversible leather and fluid-perspex.

Midas Chain 151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com Choker or necklace? Midas Chain’s 14k yellow gold adjustable curb chain piece with twin diamond bezel stations lets you choose the statement. MSRP: $2,325

MAY 2019

Evocateur 30 Osborne Ave. East Norwalk, CT 06855 Tel: 203-956-0705 Email: info@evocateurstyle.com Website: evocateurstyle.com Social: @evocateurstyle This magnificent cuff marries ancient art and modern technique. An 18th century woodblock painting by Ito Jakuchu combines with 22k gold leaf, enamel, and Swarovski crystal to create a truly dramatic piece of jewelry. It’s 2 inches wide and handmade in the USA. MSRP: $378

Artistry Ltd. 8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: orders@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com Rainbow sapphire pendant in 14k white gold from Artistry Ltd. with 0.55 ct. t.w. multicolored sapphires and 0.01 ct. diamond. Includes a 16- to 18-inch adjustable chain. Complementary pieces are available. MSRP: $778

Christopher Designs 50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@christopherdesigns.com Website: christopherdesigns.com The Christopher Designs portfolio of patented diamond cuts allows retailers to differentiate from the competition and remain profitable in the diamond category. All settings are meticulously crafted and proudly made in the USA.

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Shy Creation 631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Visit us at JCK Luxury Booth LUX1227 to see all of our 2019 Jewelersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Choice Awards design winners!

Dabakarov 62 W. 45th Street, Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.

Rembrandt Charms 370 S. Youngs Road Williamsville, NY 14221 Tel: 800-828-7840 Fax: 800-828-7811 Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Website: rembrandtcharms.com Rembrandt Charms displays produce $4,500-$7,500 in sales per square foot. The repeat business and sales generated through our Business Building Charm Program spell success for retail jewelers just like you.

Luvente 31-00 47th Ave., Second Floor, Suite 2130 Long Island City, NY 11101 Tel: 212-730-1003 Fax: 646-807-4489 Email: info@luvente.com Website: luvente.com These 14k white gold butterfly studs feature diamond baguettes.

(Style E03477-RD.W.)

MAY 2019

Royal Chain 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com Royal Chain will launch a new special-edition gold collection this summer. Stop by our booth at JCK Las Vegas to see a preview, including these modern chain-link bangles. JCK Las Vegas Booth 7109

Jewelers Mutual Group 24 Jewelers Park Drive Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com Dedicated to the jewelry industry since 1913â&#x20AC;&#x201D;discover how Jewelers Mutual will support you for a stronger tomorrow.

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ShangHai Lao Feng Xiang Co. Ltd

Belle Étoile

Phoenix in Morning Sun. This legendary bird symbolizes resurrection, immortality, and triumph over adversity. The perfect craftsmanship embodies the concepts of the designer with fine details.

Discover Belle Étoile, award-winning designer jewelry brand. French for “beautiful star,” Belle Étoile offers exquisite designs and exciting programs to help drive traffic and increase sales in your store. Visit us at belleetoilejewelry.com to learn more.

No. 270 Caoxi Road ShangHai, China 200235 Tel: 0086-21-64833388 Fax: 0086-21-64706366 Email: lfxscb@126.com Website: laofengxiang.com

eBay

2025 Hamilton Ave. San Jose, CA 95125 Tel: 650-763-6352 Email: ehaikara@ebay.com Website: ebay.com EBay Inc. is a global e-commerce leader with over 179 million active buyers. Collectively, we connect millions of buyers and sellers around the world, empowering people and creating opportunity through Connected Commerce.

5901 Christie Ave., Suite 501 Emeryville, CA 94608 Tel: 415-626-9223 Fax: 415-373-9484 Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Website: belleetoilejewelry.com

Makur Designs

42 W. 48th St., Suite 1701 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-777-MAKUR Email: makurinfo@yahoo.com Website: makurdesigns.com Makur combines subtle variations of color, form, and texture into the extraordinary designs of its award-winning, signature rose gold and Morganite collection––a look that is always identifiable through its detail and quality.

Livingstone Jewelry

631 S. Olive St., Suite 340 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-683-1040 Fax: 213-683-0422 Email: inquiry@livingstonejewelry.com Website: livingstonejewelry.com We are a manufacturer with more than 20 years of experience producing high-quality semiprecious gemstone and pearl jewelry. Our products are very contemporary and unique in designs with good price points. We are excited to introduce our Trendy diamond line collection.

MAY 2019

Pink Diamond

550 S. Hill St., Suite 1470 Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel: 213-624-2611 Fax: 213-624-0289 Email: info@pinkdiamondusa.com Website: pinkdiamondusa.com Pink Diamond provides its customer with diamonds of breathtaking brilliance, the most marvelous colored stones, and incredible jewelry…. The rarest since 1978.

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New global gemstone exhibition will showcase ICA members introducing to the US market some of the most respected colored gemstone suppliers from around the world.

Photo courtesy of Constantin Wild Š (from top clockwise): aquamarine, green tourmaline, imperial topaz, mandarin garnet, peridot, yellow beryl, rubellite, cuprian tourmaline, canary tourmaline, sphene, kunzite, tanzanite

ICA Pavilion at JCK Las Vegas

JCK Las Vegas

Located at the Sands Convention Center, directly across from the registration area, retailers will have a preview one day before the opening of JCK Las Vegas.

Ethical standards Professional expertise Full disclosure

Sands Expo & Convention Center ICA Ballroom May 30 - June 3, 2019

The International Non-ProďŹ t Organization Serving the Colored Gemstone Industry

www.gemstone.org

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

196

Beny Sofer Inc. 555 Fifth Ave., Suite 301 New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-575-0213 Fax: 212-944-9726 Email: info@benysofer.com Website: benysofer.com Beny Sofer Inc. and Sofer Jewelry are the go-to source for all your diamond and jewelry needs. Pictured: Exquisite handpicked emerald, princess, and round diamond earrings, weighing 4.75 cts. and set in 18k white gold.

Alex Velvet Inc. 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd.

Los Angeles, CA 90065 Tel: 323-255-6900 Fax: 323-255-6934 Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Website: alexvelvetusa.com Alex Velvet presents the new Floral collection. You can highlight your windows with seasonal colors.

Cirari Phillip Gavriel 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: phillipgavriel.com

36 W. 44th St., Suite 900 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488 Email: info@cirari.com Website: cirari.com

Phillip Gavriel creates fine jewelry for todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modern lifestyle, with handcrafted pieces in silver, gold, and precious gemstones. Come see his latest additions at the JCK show. JCK Las Vegas Booth 7110

Cirari is a leading designer and manufacturer of gemstone and diamond jewelry. Our collection is finely crafted with exquisite style and competitive prices to meet every womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s demand at every stage of her life. We are committed to providing superior quality and craftsmanship in each item.

Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. d.

Herco

Unit 308, Fu Hang Industrial Bldg. g.

1 Hok Yuen Street East, Hung Hom m Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: 852-23632122 Fax: 852-27641328 Email: jewellery@peterlam.com.hkk Website: peterlam.com.hk

833 Market St., 10th Floor San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-543-1580/800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Email: info@herco.com Website: herco.com

Engagement ring in 18k white gold.

Gold weight: 5.15 grams.

0760) Total diamond weight: 0.55 ct. (Style 140760)

MAY 2019

Herco offers a wide variety of 14k and 18k yellow, white, and pink gold jewelry. We also carry many items in 22k and 24k gold, platinum, silver, titanium, palladium, and stainless steel.

JCKONLINE.COM

ANNOUNCING JVC’S 2019 WEBINAR SERIES

Don’t Miss JVC’s Webinar Series Beginning in June 2019!

UNDETECTED LAB GROWN

LEGAL UPDATES FOR

DIAMONDS IN THE PIPELINE

JEWELERS WITH JVC

Thursday, June 20, 2019

Thursday, October 17, 2019

2:00 – 2:45 pm

2:00 – 2:45 pm

IP FOR DESIGNERS

GDPR: UNDERSTANDING

Tuesday, September 17, 2019

AND WORKING WITH THE

2:00 – 2:45 pm

EU’s DATA PRIVACY LAW Tuesday, November 12, 2019 2:00 – 2:45 pm

For a full list of upcoming JVC events and to register, please visit our website at www. jvclegal.org or call us at 212.997.2002

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

198

Alamea Hawaii LLC

334 Seaside Ave., Suite 207 Honolulu, HI 96815 Tel: 808-922-5333 Fax: 808-922-3992 Email: info@alameahawaii.com Website: alameahawaii.com Alamea, meaning “precious” in Hawaii, reflects our image and passion for creating quality jewelry. Our inspiration comes from the beautiful nature in Hawaii. We utilize innovative techniques and sophisticated technologies on each jewelry piece we make.

Gabriel & Co

545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: lverona@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Introducing men’s wedding bands—The Perfect Match® to our engagement rings and anniversary rings. (Styles ER14460R4T44JJ, WB14460R4T44JJ, MBM0132-60T4JJJ)

ShangHai Lao Feng Xiang Co. Ltd Charles & Colvard

170 Southport Drive Morrisville, NC 27560 Tel: 877-202-5467 Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Website: charlesandcolvard.com We aim to deliver beautiful gemstones with a conscience. Starting with the world’s most brilliant gem—which is made, not mined—we create luxury pieces that look good so you can feel good.

Adasco Designs

No. 270 Caoxi Road ShangHai, China 200235 Tel: 0086-21-64833388 Fax: 0086-21-64706366 Email: lfxscb@126.com Website: laofengxiang.com

Blessing of Phoenix. This collection is inspired by the symbol of Lao Feng Xiang, which was originally designed by Lao Feng Xiang’s innovative designers. The Phoenix represents beauty, fortune, and eternity, demonstrating Lao Feng Xiang’s combining of heritage and innovation.

DA Gold

62 W. 47th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-632-6685 Email: info@adasco.com Website: adasco.com

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-819-1111 Fax: 212-730-5706 Email: da@dagoldproducts.com Website: dagoldproducts.com

We are specialists in fine matched fancy-shape diamonds, available loose in pairs and layouts or mounted in fine jewelry. Custom-made mountings are available to fit your center diamond or gemstone.

Featured are our new Italian 18k gold cuffs that are enhanced with 0.85 ct. t.w. of sparkling diamonds. Elegant style, high quality, artful designs, and excellent customer service are the foundation of DA Gold.

MAY 2019

JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

200

Thorsten

Costar Imports, Inc.

404 E. First St., Suite 1204 Long Beach, CA 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings.com Website: thorstenrings.com

Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com

Red, white, and blue natural dinosaur bone inlays give your wedding band a piece of history.

After customer demand, we have taken our most popular stackable wedding bands and introduced matching stackable bangle bracelets with our new locking mechanisms! These bracelets can be customized with diamonds and birthstones.

Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. d.

Stuller Inc.

Unit 308, Fu Hang Industrial Bldg. g.

1 Hok Yuen Street East, Hung Hom m Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: 852-23632122 Fax: 852-27641328 Email: jewellery@peterlam.com.hkk Website: peterlam.com.hk

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

d.

Engagement ring in 18k white gold.

Gold weight: 5.25 grams.

Center diamond weight: 1 ct.

Mounting total diamond weight: 0.65 ct. (Style 150381)

Made for stone-setters and engravers, this all-new Globus work-holding set adds multi-angle options to your micro ball vise and boosts your efficiency. The positioning possibilities are unlimited. Visit stuller.com/globus to learn more.

Tasha R LLC

Hoover & Strong

7500 Bellaire Blvd., Suite 900 Houston, TX 77036 Tel: 888-999-1597 Fax: 713-995-0756 Email: info@tashar.com Website: tashar.com

10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 m Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com

Brand-New Styles for 2019. We are an up-and-coming brand with very competitive pricing! Tasha R features diamond engagement rings, complete bridal sets, wedding bands, Riviera necklaces, hoops, and bracelets in 14k and 18k gold, and platinum.

Hoover & Strong has over 650 die-struck bands including hundreds of new classic, fancy, multi-tone, and diamond styles! All bands are Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our products.

MAY 2019

JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Effy Jewelry

Shy Creation

Website: effyjewelry.com

631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com

Rainbow Connection: Brilliant sapphires come together to form contemporary designs in Effyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Watercolors collection, which includes these lust-worthy 14k gold earrings.

A spectacle of color in 7+ cts t.w. Details: Effy Watercolors 14K yellow gold sapphire and diamond earrings, 7.56 cts. t.w., Web ID: 8321.

Allison Kaufman Co. 7640 Haskell Ave. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Tel: 818-373-5100/800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150 Email: info@allisonkaufman.com Website: allisonkaufman.com Aquamarine and diamonds are set in 14k white gold.

Ring: 1.56 ct. aquamarine, 1.7 total gross weight; necklace: 1.4 ct. aquamarine, 1.54 TGW. Also available in matching earrings.

Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com R & P has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.

JCK Las Vegas Booth 50006

JCKONLINE.COM

Eden is in! Explore the Eden collection from Shy Creationâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a modern twist on the classic halo.

Explore Eden and more at JCK Luxury Booth LUX1227.

Find out how to get featured in Product Showcase.

Contact your JCK sales representative today.

201

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

202

Phillip Gavriel 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: phillipgavriel.com Royal Chain recently launched its new Influencer collection, including these on-trend 14k gold signet rings available in oval polished, square polished, or oval satin finish. MSRP: starting at $315

Jye’s International Inc. 1633 Bayshore Highway, Suite 136 Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com ed The beauty of a Jye piece is translated through its design, superior level off workmanship, and materials. Comee see ns at our iconic designs and latest creations JCK Luxury Booth LUX303.

Almor Design – Heskia 98 Cuttermill Road, Suite 125 Great Neck, NY 11023 Tel: 516-482-8030 Fax: 516-482-0259 Email: info@almordesign.com Website: heskiaco.com Almor Design is a leading jewelry manufacturer specializing in high-end white diamond fashion jewelry you’ve never seen before. We carry a unique collection of GIA-certified natural fancy color diamond jewelry as well, in particular green and blue.

MAY 2019

RDI Diamonds Inc. 2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again.

You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100 percent Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.

Earstuds USA 5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 Email: david@earstudsusa.com Website: earstudsusa.com These 5.41 cts. t.w. fancy, light yellow, VS clarity, radiant-cut diamond earrings are sure to turn heads. Mounted in 18k yellow and white gold, complemented with round diamonds, G-H VS. Visit us at JCK Las Vegas Booth 6108.

Gabriel & Co 545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: lverona@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Gabriel & Co.’s unique diamond engagement rings and bridal sets capture the true love and excitement of your journey toward matrimony. They will forever be a symbol of your commitment to your special someone.

MSRP: $505–$2,600

JCKONLINE.COM

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY SERVING THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY FOR

150 YEARS

With original, authoritative, and compelling journalism, JCK magazine offers readers expanded coverage of the most important issues and style trends affecting their businesses.

JCKONLINE.COM

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com

Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

Le Vian®

Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Le Vian toasts the 20th anniversary of its exclusive Chocolate Diamonds® in the Veronese Ballroom at Luxury (May 29–June 3) and the JCK show (May 31–June 3)! Schedule your appointment today to view the 2020 collections. Contact sales@levian.com.

Blue Ray Diamonds

45440 Ford Road Canton, MI 48187 Tel: 734-459-8664 Fax: 734-459-8617 Email: takess@aol.com Website: blueraydiamonds.com Our invention is called the Super Halo. We have enhanced the halo and solitaire jewelry with diamonds. In this innovative design, the center diamond/stone sits in a shimmering pool of diamonds.

JCKONLINE.COM

A CONSUMER MARKETING C A M PA I G N F O R T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y,

BY THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY

94%

of retailers and suppliers surveyed see the need for a national, unified advertising campaign.

JO IN T HES E IN D U S TR Y PIO N EER S : American Gem Society (AGS) Artistry, Ltd. Emerald Expositions Forevermark Gemological Institute of America Greenland Ruby

Gumuchian Instore Magazine JCK Industry Fund Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group Jewelers of America

Midas Chain Rahaminov Diamonds Royal Chain Group Shy Creation Silver Promotion Service Synchrony

IN D EPEN D EN T R ETA IL ER PION EER S H. Watson Jewelry Krombholz Jewelers

L E A RN M O R E AT WWW. J EWELER S . O R G /C O N S U ME RC AMP AIGN

CLASSIFIEDS

206

SERVICES TO TRADE

INVISIBLE EXPERTS! INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR • SIZING • REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES • LASER WELDING

We Have The Answer to Your Problems! www.invisibleexperts.com SIGNATURE JEWELRY INC.

1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026

617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014

REPS WANTED

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

MDJ ADVANTAGE NOW HIRING VETERAN FIELD SALES REPRESENTATIVES

JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES

• Selling fine jewelry, signed pieces, diamond basics to Italian designers • 10% commission paid monthly • Select territories available • High earning potential • Must have a following with fine jewelry retailers

The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

Contact: Dominic Mainella, Managing Partner 716-480-3000 | dm@mdjadvantage.com

INDEPENDENT REPS WANTED

CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING 3D computer design 3D wax printing ● Precious metal casting ● ●

Stone setting and finishing Diamond supply ● Laser engraving & repair ●

●

Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com

SCHOOLS & EDUCATION

30+ year Direct Manufacturer of high-demand Gold, silver and diamond Jewelry seeking experienced Reps with a following.

Excellent commission.

Must have established customer base.

Nonconflicting lines okay.

Professional Sales Support + Catalogs, Flyers & Major Trade Show Presence.

INQUIRE AT JCK LV BOOTH 23103, LEVEL 2 Resume to: independentreps@JCKonline.com

GND Atlanta, an industry leader in B2B jewelry sales, is seeking for sales reps.

Require excellent communication skills. Apply at hr@gndatlanta.com 678-862-7600.

WATCHES & WATCH WORK

JEWELRY CLASSES

• Wax Modeling • Casting Mold Making • Bead Pearl Stringing • Diamond Setting • Rendering/Design • Jewelry Repair Long and Short Term Courses EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. 32 East 31 Street (Park & Madison) New York, NY 10016 Call (212) 686-1944 www.studiojewelersltd.com

STUDIO JEWELERS, LTD

Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com

ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices.

Star Findings PO Box 6167, West Orange, NJ 07052 212-941-7655 ernie@starfindings.com www.starfindings.com

RUN A CLASSIFIED AD STARTING AT $220

JEWELRY APPRAISERS Heritage Appraisers Inc is seeking several local experienced jewelry appraisers. This is a subcontractor opportunity with limited travel. Several territories nationally. Top commission paid.

Applicants can submit their resumes along with two sample appraisals to appraise@heritageappraisers.com or fax to 216-803-4245 These are immediate openings only serious applicants should apply.

WATCHMAKER WANTED! Min. 10 years of experience repairing Patek Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, perpetual calendar, chronograph, lathe work, etc. $82,000/year plus benefits.

Please email or fax your resume to joshua@grayandsons.com or fax: 305-865-9666

Call your JCK Sales Representative or email JCKClassifieds@advance.net.

MAY 2019

JCKONLINE.COM

Headed to JCK this month?

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BEFORE YOU GO S PO NS O R ED BY:

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Apple and the Apple logo are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. Google Play and the Google Play logo are trademarks of Google Inc.

ADVERTISING

INDEX

208

Adasco Designs pg. 105 Website: adasco.com Email: info@adasco.com Phone: 212-819-0288 Toll-Free: 800-632-6685 AGTA pg. 69 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alamea Hawaii LLC pg. 85 Website: alameahawaii.com Email: support@alameahawaii.com Tel: 808-922-5333 Fax: 808-922-3992 Alex Velvet pg. 65 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Allison Kaufman Company pg. 72 Website: allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908 Arpas Gold Jewellery pg. 149 Website: arpas.com Email: info@arpasusa.com Phone: 212-869-5548 Artistry Ltd. pg. 48 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Assael International Inc. pg. 154-155 Website: Assael.com Email: Katietravers@assael.com Phone: 212-819-0060 Fax: 212-764-1965 Baggins Inc. pg. 156-157 Website: bagginspearls.com Email: bagginsinc@sbcglobal.net Phone: 213-624-2277 Fax: 213-624-2278 Belle Étoile pg. 91 Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Toll-Free: 877-838-6728 Bharat Diamond Bourse pg. 182 Website: bdbindia.org Email: anagha.bhujade@i-dtc.org Phone: +91 22 3392 1700/ +91 22 2675 4660 / +91 22 3392 1797

MAY 2019

Charles & Colvard pg. 71 Website: charlesandcolvard.com Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Toll-Free: 800-210-4367 Christopher Designs pg. 35 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970 Color Jewels Inc. pg. 108 Website: cirari.com Email: tarek@colorjewels.net Phone: 212-764-2823 Fax: 212-354-8488 Continental Pearl pg. 179 Website: continentalpearl.com Email: ankit@continentalpearl.com Phone: 213-612-0252 Fax: 213-612-0686 Costar Imports pg. 61 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR Cybel – Belpearl pg. 169 Website: belpearl.com Email: robert@cybelco.com Phone: 212-752-6600 Toll-Free: 800-752-6606 Fax: 212-752-6606 Dabakarov pg. 95 Website: dabakarov.com Email: info@dabakarov.com Phone: 212-730-1888 Downeast Trading pg. 203 Website: downeasttrading.com Email: downeast@sover.net Toll-Free: 800-626-5700 Earstuds USA pg. 191 Website: earstudsusa.com Email: sales@earstudsusa.com Toll-Free: 866-327-7883 eBay Inc. pg. 186 Website: ebay.com Phone: 866-540-3229 Effy pg. Back Cover Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY EVOCATEUR pg. 12-13 Website: evocateurstyle.com Phone: 203-820-8786

Facet Barcelona USA Inc. pg. 43 Website: facetbarcelona.com/usa Email: sales@facet.es Phone: 212-302-8200 Fax: 347-441-0908

Hoover & Strong pg. 189 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Fire and Ice Diamonds pg. 106-107 Website: fireandicediamonds.com Email: info@fireandicediamonds.com Phone: 209-522-9926 Fax: 209-661-4660

Imperial pg. 161 Website: imperialpearl.com

Frey Wille pg. 58 Website: freywille.com G Panther pg. 64 Email: mailgpanther@aol.com Toll-Free: 888-430-4344 Gabriel & Co. pg. 41 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 Galatea Jewelry by Artist pg. 165 Website: galateausa.com Email: info@galateausa.com Phone: 909-592-0877 Toll-free: 800-609-6888 Fax: 909-592-1837 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 GLDA pg. 185 Website: glda.com Golden Line pg. 146 Website: goldenlinejew.com Email: export@goldenlinejew.com Phone: +902126397199 HANADAMA Pearls pg. 180 Website: hanadama-cfp.com Email: info@hanadama-cfp.com Phone: 310-440-2159 Toll-free: 800-732-7500 Fax: 310-476-2756 Herco pg. 81 Website: herco.com Email: info@herco.com Toll-Free: 800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699

International Colored Gemstone Association pg. 195 Website: gemstone.org Email: ica@gemstone.org Phone: 212-620-0900 Fax: 212-352-9054 Italgem Steel pg. 46 Website: Italgemsteel.com Email: sam@italgemsteel.com Phone: 514-388-5777 Toll-Free: 855-ITALGEM Fax: 514-384-5777 JCK Events pg. 24-25, 57, 207, 209 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 8-9 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 211 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 JTR Jewellery Exporters’ Association pg. 20-21 Website: jtr.org.tr Email: info@jtr.org.tr Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 205 Website: gemlogis.com Email: enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333 Jye’s International pg. 89 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880 Kimberly Collins Colored Gems pg. 60 Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com Email: kim@kimberlycollinsgems.com Phone: 512-661-8778 (continued)

JCKONLINE.COM

THURSDAY, MAY 30 – MONDAY, JUNE 3, 2019 SANDS EXPO & THE VENETIAN | LAS VEGAS

EXPAND YOUR INDUSTRY KNOWLEDGE C O M P L I M E N TA R Y F O R J C K L A S V E G A S B A D G E H O L D E R S , T H E J C K TA L K S E D U C AT I O N P R O G R A M A R M S R E TA I L E R S W I T H T H E T O O L S , I N S I G H T S A N D I N F O R M AT I O N N E C E S S A R Y T O S U C C E E D I N T H E C U R R E N T R E TA I L C L I M AT E .

C O N T E N T I N C L U D E S A C T I O N PA C K E D D AY S O F I N F L U E N T I A L S P E A K E R S P R O V I D I N G YO U W I T H C R I T I C A L TA K E AWAY S T H AT D E L I V E R S O L U T I O N S F O R YO U R S T O R E . T H I S Y E A R ’ S S C H E D U L E F E AT U R E S N E W, R E L E VA N T TOPICS INCLUDING: SOCIAL MEDIA BOOT CAMP POWERED BY THE SMITHEE G R O U P, 2 0 1 9 T R E N D S , T E C H N O L O G Y I N R E TA I L , R E TA I L E R R O U N D TA B L E S , TO DAY ’ S C O N S U M E R A N D M O R E .

V I S I T J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 1 9 . C O M / J C K TA L K S F O R T H E M O S T U P -T O - DAT E S C H E D U L E A N D M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N .

NOT REGISTERED FOR JCK LAS VEGAS? REGISTER TODAY AT JCKLASVEGAS2019.COM/REGISTERTODAY

ADVERTISING

INDEX

210

Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN

Omi PrivĂŠ pg. 37 Website: omiprive.com Email: prive@omigems.com Toll-Free: 877-OMI-GEMS

Les Georgettes p. 97 Website: lesgeorgettes.com Email: orders@lesgeorgettesusa.com Phone: 718-360-2917

Parade Designs, Inc. pg. 45 Website: paradedesign.com Email: info@paradedesign.com Phone: 213-627-4019

Lighting 4 Diamonds pg. 47 Website: lighting4diamonds.com Email: info@lighting4diamonds.com Toll-Free: 855-326-6645

Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd.pg. 18-19 Website: peterlam.com.hk Email: kenter@peterlam.com.hk Phone: +852 23555897 Fax: +852 27641328

Livingstone Jewelry pg. 79 Website: livingstonejewelry.com Toll-Free: 800-654-3394 Lorenzo Jewelry Limited pg. 14-15 Website: ljintl.com Email: sales@ljintl.com Phone: +852 2764 3622 Fax: +852 2764 3783 Luvente pg. 49-56 Website: luvente.com Phone: 212-730-1003 Mastoloni pg. 158-159 Website: mastoloni.com Toll-Free: 800-347-3275 Midas pg. 10-11 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765 Mioro pg. 103 Website: miorogold.com Email: info@miorogold.com Phone: 212-302-6077 Fax: 212-302-6018 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 62 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Nicole Barr pg. 66 Website: nicolebarr.com Email: us-info@nicolebarr.com Phone: 919-846-3704 Toll-Free: 877-810-7312 Fax: 919-846-3705

MAY 2019

Pink Diamond pg. 93 Website: pinkdiamondusa.com Email: info@pinkdiamondusa.com Phone: 213-624-2611 Fax: 213-624-0289 PREMIERTM pg. 75 Website: premiershow.com Email: Amanda.hampton@emeraldexpo.com Phone: 646-668-3740 Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 33 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Rajola pg. 163 Website: rajola.it Email: rajola@rajola.it Rand & Paseka pg. 76 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 77 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rembrandt Charms pg. 193 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811 Royal Chain Group pg. Gatefold cover, 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960

Sethi Couture pg. 68 Website: sethicouture.com Phone: 415-863-1475 SF Pearl & Jewelry MFG Inc. pg. 171 Website: epearlfarm.com Email: info@epearlfarm.com Phone: 401-263-6196 Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang pg. 16-17 Website: laofengxiang.com Shy Creation Inc. pg. 4-5 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 Sofer Jewelry pg. 99 Website: Benysofer.com Email: info@benysofer.com Phone: 212-575-0213 Toll-Free: 800-307-6337 Fax: 212-944-9726 Star Jewelry pg. 83 Website: blueraydiamonds.com Email: Takess@aol.com Phone: 734-459-8664 Fax: 734-459-8617 Sterling Reputation pg. 188 Website: sterlingreputation.com Email: info@sterlingreputation.com Phone: 954-578-1880 Stuller Inc. pg. 86 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655

Tasha R LLC pg. 6-7 Website: tashar.com Email: info@tashar.com Phone: 713-242-8029 x201 Toll-Free: 888-999-1597 Fax: 713-995-0756 The Collective pg. 59 Website: thecollectivelasvegas.com Email: Amanda.hampton@emeraldexpo.com Phone: (646) 668-3740 Thorsten Jewelry pg. 101 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com Tim Roark Inc. pg. 67 Website: timroarkinc.com Email: info@trimportsatl.com Phone: 404-872-8937 Toll-free: 800-568-2011 Fax: 404-872-9346 Umicore pg. 184 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 Wilkerson pg. p. 22-23 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333 Zen Diamond pg. 151 Website: zendiamond.com Phone: 201-842-7698

Copyright Š2019 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 150 No. 3 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.

This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information.

Please reference page number listed for more information.

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M AY 3 0 - J U N E 3 , 2 0 1 9 THE SANDS EXPO & CONVENTION CENTER LAS VEGAS, NV

NOW 5 DAYS LONG & STARTING ONE DAY BEFORE JCK JIS Exchange is the premier at-show delivery event during Las Vegas Jewelry Week. In partnership with JCK Las Vegas, JIS Exchange 2019 will be held alongside JCK and LUXURY

in the Sands Expo & Convention Center on the 3rd Floor, featuring Fashion & Silver exhibitors that each specialize in and transact in at-show delivery. This is your destination

to purchase all the instant inventory you need as you head into the Fall selling season.

LEARN MORE AT JISSHOW.COM/EXCHANGE

REGISTER TO ATTEND OR APPLY TO EXHIBIT TODAY! S TAY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S S H O W

IN PAR T NERSHIP W IT H

LAS VEGAS

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THE WAY WE WERE COVER STORIES FROM 150 YEARS OF JCK

TAKE 45

BEHIND A HANDSOMELY illustrated cover paying tribute to Italian goldsmith Benvenuto Cellini sits one of the largest issues in our 150-year history.

The first big article in this whopper? A 10-page tribute to “Characteristic Folk Jewelry of Various Nations.” (If you want to know about Romanian bridal ornaments, hit us up.) Other features are more relevant today: “A Review of the Fashion Jewelry in 1913” (diamond and pearl lavalieres, ribbon brooches, black enamel pieces); “A Forecast of the New Jewelry Designs for the Coming Season” (long finger rings); and a photo-filled essay on a jeweler’s trip to the Golconda mines. Window displays, book­keeping, and commissions are among the more practical topics covered. But our favorite section is The Connoisseur, “Devoted to Art Pottery, China, Marbles, Bronzes, Cut and Decorative Glass Ware, Bric-à-Brac, Lamps, Art Metal Wares, Fancy Goods and Kindred Lines.” Who doesn’t love bric-a-brac? —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

PHOTOGRAPH BY NESTOR CERVANTES

How did The Jewelers’ Circular celebrate its 45th anniversary?

With 360 pages—then our largest issue to date

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©2018 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

At GIA, gems endure even more pressure.

Science and discovery underpins everything we do. Since 1931, the Gemological Institute of America has been unearthing the truth about gems and creating industry standards. With unwavering commitment to accurate and unbiased methodologies, our dedicated research staff advances the knowledge the industry and consumers need to protect confidence in gems and jewelry. Our discoveries are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls.

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