JCK Pearls 2019 Supplement

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SPRING 2019

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A COMPLETE A-TO-Z GUIDE CROWNING MOMENTS IN ­M OVIES & TV PLUS: 5 DESIGNER DISCOVERIES

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GLOSSARY

A-B-SEA All the pearl news that’s fit to print, in alphabetical order

A

BY MARTHA C. WHITE

S JEWELRY TRENDS come and go, pearls remain a classic. But whereas previous generations might have been inspired by Coco Chanel or Audrey Hepburn, today’s ­fashion-forward consumers are eager for bold takes that flip the script on pearls as a traditional accessory.

Here you’ll find a glossary of everything you need to know about the luminous gems and today’s thriving pearl market.

A

AKOYA PEARLS, aka the classic white pearls beloved by earlier generations including your grandma. “The major thing is that akoya pearls are just starting to see their time again,” says Peggy Grosz, vice president of development for New York City–based Assael.

(Ear clips with 4.75 cts. t.w. diamonds and Japanese akoya pearls in 18k white gold; $32,000; Mindi Mond; 212219-3793; mindimondny.com)

B

BAROQUE PEARLS, characterized by irregular or even bumpy shapes.

“When you look at baroques, it’s just an amazing variation of shapes,” says Leonard Federer, partner at New York City’s Tri-Gem Pearls. “Visually, there’s an endless universe.” (Gulika ring with baroque pearl, rhodolite, and diamonds in rhodium-plated sterling silver and gold vermeil; Modern Moghul; 361239-8799; modernmoghul.com) SPRING 2019

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(Flower earrings with 38.39 cts. t.w. natural conch pearls and 0.46 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $46,862; Tara Pearls; sales@tarapearls.com; tarapearls.com)

D

DESIGNERS, who have taken to incorporating pearls on the catwalk in a big way. Boldface couture brands such as Stella McCartney, Miu Miu, and Valentino have been elevating pearls to high-fashion status during New York Fashion Week runway shows.

E

C

CONCH PEARLS, the pink, non-­ nacreous pearls produced by the queen conch. Julia Roberts wore conch pearl earrings to the 2019 Academy Awards.

They’re extremely rare, because they can’t be cultivated, and extremely ­expensive.

“One to 3 carats are going at wholesale for $1,500 to $2,500 per carat, 3 to 6 carats are $3,500 to $4,500 per carat,” says Ashwani K. Sethi, CEO of New York City–based Tara Pearls, adding that the very top quality can command an additional 50 percent.

EXTREME WEATHER, such as the typhoons that hit the pearl-producing areas of Australia—a top producer of the largest white and golden South Sea pearls—nearly five years ago, destroying many oyster beds. Because those pearls can take a number of years to grow to

their top sizes, the storms are having an effect now on ­availability and pricing. “There is a serious shortage of goods once you get to 16 millimeters and over,” says Gary Tarna, president of Los Angeles–based Hanadama Pearls.

F

FRESHWATER PEARLS, the most inexpensive type of pearl. Cultivated in a species of freshwater mussel, not oyster, freshwaters are largely farmed in China, where robust production is meeting an increase in demand. Eddie Livi, owner of DSL Pearl, says that for high-quality freshwaters, prices tend to JCKONLINE.COM

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G

GEMSTONES, which designers are pairing with color-complementary pearls to bring out their varying shades, Grosz says. For instance, a Tahitian pearl with a greenish tinge might be paired with a tourmaline or a green garnet.

(18k yellow gold ring with natural-color Tahitian cultured pearl and 5.73 cts. t.w. mint-green garnets; $24,800; Assael; 212-819-0060; assael.com)

H

HONG KONG, as in the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, held this year for the first time in tandem with the Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association and the Japan Pearl Promotion Society.

Today, Japan exports about 75 percent of its pearl production to Hong Kong, with demand fueled by growing interest among middle-class consumers in China and elsewhere in Asia.

I

INNOVATIVE TECHNIQUES such as faceting, inlays, and other unexpected ways to slice and dice a pearl to show off its beauty. Brands such as Melanie Georgacopoulos, Samira 13, and little h all play with variations on the theme (which experts say can be an excellent way to disguise imperfections in a lovely yet flawed specimen).

J

JAPAN, the traditional producer of akoya pearls. After a period during which the Japanese ceded much of the market to Chinese competitors, pearl industry pros say the country is once again the dominant producer of ­in-demand akoyas.

K

KURI BAY, where the modern pearl industry began, in remote Western Australia. The first farm for cultured pearls was opened in 1956 by a ­company run by Tokuichi Kuribayashi (for whom the bay is named).

L

M

MELO PEARLS, a vibrant and non-nacreous pearl variety produced by a species of sea snail. Look for these flame-hued beauties in high jewelry collections. (Necklace with detachable 16 mm Melo pearl and 15 mm white South Sea cultured pearl, not shown, pendants and 31.21 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum; $560,000; Mikimoto; 844341-0579; mikimotoamerica.com)

N

NUCLEATED, or how oysters are seeded to produce pearls. Freshwater pearls are usually tissue-nucleated, but a new technique pioneered by Chinese freshwater pearl producers uses beads instead. “The pearls are heavier and they’re sold by weight, and it gives you the ability to make them bigger and bigger,” says Fran Mastoloni, partner at New York City’s Mastoloni. The technique allows producers to create round freshwater pearls of much larger sizes.

“They used to be 6 to 9 millimeters.

Now they can go up to 15 millimeters.”

LONG STRANDS, which are an especially hot trend right now.

“We’re selling a lot of long strands between 28 and 38 inches—and sometimes much longer so you can triple it around the neck,” Federer says. The extra D.C. power player length means versatility for Nancy Pelosi ­consumers seeking a piece of

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jewelry they can put their own stamp on. (Endless-style 54-inch strand with 4.5 mm–9.5 mm black fresh­ water pearls; $275; Mastoloni; 800-347-3275; mastoloni.com)

OPTIMISM. While styles come and go, the extent to which pearls have been integrated into not only fine jewelry but also fashion jewelry and apparel gives them serious staying power.

“The pendulum has swung back, and it’s important for retailers to know that something this classic is going to remain for decades,” Grosz says.

P

POWER, as in pearls are the new jewel of choice for influential women from Washington, D.C., to Hollywood.

“Women of power wear pearls.” Grosz says. “There are pearls like crazy on the 30-somethings. You’re never overdressed, and they go with everything.”

Q

QUEEN ELIZABETH. The British monarch is hardly what might be considered a style maven, but her love of pearls has been picked up by a new generation of British royals and made fresh again. Prince William’s wife, Kate Middleton, and Prince Harry’s wife, Meghan Markle—fashion icons for a huge number of young women—are Pearl maven Kate Middleton

Strand fan Queen Elizabeth

(FROM LEFT) ALEX WONG/GETTY; KCG-178/STAR MAX/IPX/AP; MICHAEL DUNLEA/N&S SYNDICATION/AP

rise by about 5 percent on a year-over-year basis.

“Demand has risen a little bit,” he says, largely because the Chinese “are buying them before they get to Hong Kong,” where they ordinarily would hit the export market.

(8 mm–9 mm freshwater pearl earrings with 0.04 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $695; Maui Divers; 800-253-6016; mauidivers.com)

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being credited with helping to spark interest in pearls and to encourage younger women to wear them.

R

REGULATION. Last year, the Federal Trade Commission implemented a rule that requires manufacturers to disclose treatments to address pearl dyeing, just as they’re expected to do for colored stones that have been treated to achieve their hue. Manufacturers must now disclose treatments to both natural and cultured pearls if those treatments are not permanent, require special care, or affect the pearl’s value.

S

SOUTH SEA PEARLS. These are the ultimate pearls: the biggest, most lustrous, and most desirable. Supplies of smaller and medium pearls of both the white and golden varieties are

T

TAHITIAN PEARLS, which come in striking shades ranging from grays to purples to greens. When Harry and Meghan visited Fiji in October, the Duchess of Sussex was gifted a J. Hunter Pearls Fiji strand of pearls, whose rare and deeply multicolored hues caught the eyes of fashionistas worldwide. “When that happened, ­demand skyrocketed,” Grosz says. While the “Sussex Strand” would retail for up to $70,000, pearls from the South Pacific are available in far more democratic price points. “Other Fiji pearls can wholesale for $300 a pair. There’s a very wide range.” (India bracelet with 7 mm–8 mm Tahitian pearls in 18k white gold; $8,830; Tamara Comolli; bw@ tamaracomolli.com; tamaracomolli.com)

U

UPDO, as in the pearl-covered beehive hairstyle rapper Cardi B wore to the 2019 Grammys, giving the phrase crown jewel a whole new meaning. For more examples of ultraglam pearl hair accessories, consider Plutonia Blue’s boho-chic pearl hairpins or Ariana Grande’s Instagram selfies (where the singer braids pearls into her ’do).

V

healthy, while the runaway demand for golden pearls (which tend to be a few millimeters smaller than their white counterparts) in China has cooled a bit, bringing prices down by as much as 15 percent, according to Livi. (Silk collection 14k yellow gold ring with 10 mm–11 mm golden South Sea cultured pearl; $1,125; Imperial Pearl; kathy@ imperialpearl.com; imperialpearl.com) SPRING 2019

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VERSATILITY. Designers are moving beyond the red carpet and runways, incorporating pearls into their collections in new and striking ways.

“Life is becoming more casual,” Grosz says. “Smaller pearls are wearable”—for instance, Lizzie Fortunato’s pearltopped hairpins—and even larger ones can be found in all kinds of accessories.

W

WHITE SOUTH SEA PEARLS, the world’s largest, with specimens up to 20 mm. But such sizable beauties are more

and more rare, Tarna says, due to growing demand and lowered production as a result of catastrophic weather events.

“In white South Sea pearls, larger sizes and especially better qualities are very scarce and will probably be that way for the next year or two,” he adds. (Earrings with 12 mm–13 mm South Sea pearls and 1.3 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $8,000; Yoko London; 212-8199400; yokolondon.com)

X

X-RAYS, aka microradiography.

According to GIA, this is the only ­noninvasive way to see inside a pearl; it can be used to separate natural-color from treated-color pearls and to determine if a pearl is natural or cultured.

Y

GENERATION Y, which is driving much of the interest in pearls right now. From catwalks to Instagram, there’s no shortage of platforms for showing young millennial women how to wear pearls. Plus: Pearls are an increasingly affordable luxury, thanks to the abundance of smaller specimens on the market and the willingness of customers to embrace the organic imperfection of baroque gems.

Z

ZEITGEIST. “Pearls have been doing extremely well over the last two years, and they look to be doing ­extremely well this year,” Mastoloni ­concludes. “They’re delivering value again, and fashionability.”

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY

BY GAVIN O’NEILL Hair: Sasha Nesterchuk/Bumble and Bumble, Kérastase & Hot Tools Makeup: Bobby Bujisic Using MAC Cosmetics/Judy Casey Stylist: Nadia Rath/ Factory Downtown Manicurist: Roseann Singleton Using Chanel/Art Department Model: Yada Villaret/Wilhelmina Bodysuit: Bershka

White South Sea and Tahitian pearl necklace (in hair) in 18k white gold with 1.8 cts. t.w. diamond clasp, $54,000, DSL Pearl, 212-575-9127, dslpearl.com; 18k gold–plated brass earrings with green amethyst, freshwater pearls, and Swarovski crystals, $795, Iradj Moini, 212-594-9242, iradjmoini.com; 18k rose gold ring with black South Sea pearls, $1,980, Alessandra Donà at Gioielli Group, 914-289-0206, alessandradona.com; 18k yellow gold Multi Tahitian Bubble pearl ring, $10,200, Assael, 212-8190060, assael.com; 10k yellow gold cuff ring with Tahitian black pearl and 0.05 ct. diamond, $800, Hirotaka, 81-36-256-9617, hiro-taka.com; 18k white gold ring with Tahitian keshi pearls and 0.24 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,200, Baggins, 213-624-2277, bagginspearls.com; Tahitian and South Sea pearl ring in 18k gold with 0.97 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,300, Daniel Dilman, 800-732-7522, danieldilman.com; white South Sea and Tahitian pearl bangle in 18k white gold with 1.03 cts. t.w. diamonds, $7,200, DSL Pearl

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Sorrento collection Deco four-row necklace, $3,815, Deco seven-row collar necklace, $7,360, with 4 mm–5 mm freshwater pearls and diamonds in 18k white gold; Mastoloni; 800347-3275; mastoloni.com SPRING 2019

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B E T W E E N D OW N TO N A B B E Y , T H E C R OW N , A N D T H E FAV O U R I T E , C O S T U M E D E S I G N E R S A R E MORE ENAMORED THAN EVER WITH PEARLS— WHICH MEANS IT’S THE PERFECT TIME FOR J E W E L E R S T O C A P I T A L I Z E O N P O P C U LT U R E ’ S OBSESSION WITH THE CLASSIC GEM

by Amy Elliott

THE CROWN: COURTESY NETFLIX (3); GUARD: FOTOVOYAGER/E+/GETTY; BIG BEN: NERTHUZ/ISTOCK/GETTY

PEARLS ON FILM

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THE FAVOURITE: © TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX FILM (2); ELIZABETH: THE GOLDEN AGE: UNIVERSAL/EVERETT

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P

EARLS ARE SO timeless that touting their trendiness may seem ­counter to their nature—unless you hope to sell more of them. The ­jewelry industry is officially having a pearl renaissance, a flame fanned by the appearance of pearl jewelry on fashion runways, in hit TV shows (Netflix’s The Crown) and feature films (Crazy Rich Asians, The Favourite), and among a crop of designers who are reinventing the classics.

“Any film that’s come out [referencing] Jackie Kennedy has spurred interest in pearls,” says Beth Bernstein, ­jewelry author, historian, and ­founder of the online magazine BeJeweled. “The same is true of movies about Chanel, who mixed pearls with other chains and gemstones.”

Likewise, Daphne Lingon, head of jewelry for Christie’s Americas, has ­observed younger collectors cultivating an interest in pearls—and contemporary jewelry designers incorporating the gems in innovative ways. “I do think there is some correlation with period dramas in films and television,” she says, “as viewers are exposed to more historic costumes, accessories, and jewelry.”

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Elixir d’Amour necklace with South Sea pearl, 14.45 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 5.24 ct. andesine in 18k white and yellow gold, $272,000, Jewelmer, franck.ferrari@jewelmer. com, jewelmer.com; antique brooch/pendant with 47 ct. blue sapphire, 18.1 cts. t.w. diamonds, and pearls in 18k gold and silver, $800,000, Assael, 212-819-0060, assael.com

PULLING STRINGS Pearls have a long history on the big screen (see “Highlight Reel” sidebar).

How do they end up in a movie to begin with? Credit the costume designer, who is well aware that his or her choices may influence trends. At the moment, pearls are most visible in historical films and TV shows, but pulling pieces for such productions isn’t always a case of sourcing antique jewels or replicas.

“Even in a period piece, it helps to slip in elements that look right in the present-day time period,” explains Jojo MacDowall, a stylist who has worked on films such as Tully and Cold Pursuit and innumerable TV shows.

“Otherwise it can look too much like a costume and less like a real, relatable character.”

When choosing jewelry for an actor to wear, MacDowall considers ­ questions such as where the character ­acquired the piece and its meaning in the story. “I consider it part of my job to source pieces that are on the cusp of fashion so that when the show comes out, the look is fresh and current,” SPRING 2019

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HIGHLIGHT REEL A LOOK AT PEARL JEWELRY ’S MOST MEMORABLE—AND INFLUENTIAL—ON-SCREEN APPEARANCES

REAR WINDOW (1954)

As fashion editor Lisa Fremont, future princess Grace Kelly had a luminous presence in the iconic Hitchcock film, aided by a striking string of pearls and a multistrand charm bracelet.

BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S (1961)

More than 50 years after this beloved movie’s release, women of all ages continue to be enchanted by Audrey Hepburn as the glamorous Holly Golightly wearing piles of pearls in the now-iconic opening scene.

THE BUSINESS OF DESIRE While the world of film and television can spark major fashion trends, does the current on-screen p ­ opularity of pearls have the power to create a consumer craze? “People seeing The Favourite ­already know how they feel about pearls,” says Aja Raden, author of the best seller Stoned: Jewelry, Obsession, and How Desire Shapes the World. “They have them, or they want them, or both. For instance, I left The Favourite ­thinking, ‘I should restring one of my really big pearl necklaces like that, to tie in the back with ribbon.’ ” Indie films like The Favourite, ­however, are unlikely to do for pearls what, say, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes did for gemstone parures, what Titanic did for heart-shape blue pendants, or what Breakfast at Tiffany’s did for ­oversized, multistrand pearl necklaces with ­jeweled clasps. “They’re not big enough movies with a wide enough reach or a lasting enough c­ultural SPRING 2019

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impact to move the jewelry market,” Raden says. “They’re not iconic enough to inspire mass emulation.”

Fair enough, but savvy retailers can still cast pearls as something newly desirable and relevant by tying them to a larger cultural moment—one that speaks not only to the romance and ­allure of vintage style but also to the idea of women in power, ­including the queens, princesses, and ­fashion icons who have been wearing them for centuries. “Emphasize the ­association with royalty,” Raden says of pearl jewelry. “In many times and places, only monarchs were allowed to own them. The appeal of pearls has always been timelessness and exclusivity and, frankly, that they’re a class ­signifier. Remember that you’re selling an ­heirloom, something priceless and rare.”

SEIZING THE MOMENT The challenge for retailers is to acknowledge the current pearl re­ naissance—and even use it to market their pearl assortment—while not ­detracting from the qualities that are

THE GREAT GATSBY (1974)

Cartier provided the jewels for this film, which caused swingy, opera-length strands to make a comeback. Mia Farrow even appeared on the cover of the very first issue of People magazine, dressed in character as Daisy Buchanan with one of those pearl necklaces in her teeth.

TIN CUP (1996)

Late 1990s jewelry sales were dominated by a gazillion different versions of the necklace—a Wendy Brigode design with small pearls placed at widely spaced stations on a silk thread—sported by Rene Russo in this film about golf and golfers.

ELIZABETH (1998) Star earrings with 10.7 mm gray Tahitian pearls and 0.5 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $4,200, Sandra Dixon Studios, sandradixon studios@gmail.com, sandradixonstudios.com; Three Graces talisman on necklace of 7 mm freshwater pearls, $480, Pyrrha, sales@pyrrha. com, pyrrha.com

Cate Blanchett nailed her portrayal of the famous Tudor queen in a wardrobe that included myriad pearl headdresses and sumptuous pearl-strewn gowns and robes, worn with the grace and confidence of the monarch herself.

ELIZABETH: THE GOLDEN AGE (2007)

Italian jeweler Percossi Papi provided the jewelry for this sequel (also starring Blanchett), much of it featuring or accented with pearls. Alexandra Byrne went on to win an Oscar for her costume design.

DOWNTON ABBEY: PBS/PHOTOFEST; THE GREAT GATSBY: (MULLIGAN) WARNER BROS. PICTURES/EVERETT; (FARROW) EVERETT; MORGAN 4/4 80TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION CAR: MORGAN-MOTOR.CO.UK

MacDowall says. “Hopefully, people will see these looks and love them and emulate them in some way.”

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DOWNTON ABBEY (2011)

Chronicling post–Edwardian era fashion and the Art Deco stylings of the Roaring ’20s, the PBS drama series dangled innumerable pearl necklaces and earrings in front of a massive viewership during its six-season run.

A feature film based on the show is slated for release in September.

THE GREAT GATSBY (2013)

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by an all-encompassing film/fashion/ collectibility/historical wave as it ­relates to pearls,” says Peggy Grosz, vice president of development at pearl specialist Assael.

Bernstein suggests creating inspirational displays based on current or classic films that involve pearls to draw the customer in and add allure to the product. “You can also splice some v­ideos of favorite movies and the pearls shown in them and have them playing on screens in the background of your store and then point out something similar from your collection,” she says.

And later this year, when the Downton Abbey movie comes out?

Make sure you have skin in the game.

A party themed around the release of the film would be a great way to kick off a pearl event. “In the trailers, I have seen Maggie Smith wearing pearl earrings and other actresses wearing pearl necklaces,” Bernstein says. “The film starts in 1927, so there will definitely be pearls to be seen—and stores can start to promote it now.”

THE CROWN (2016)

It’s impossible to watch any episode of this popular Netflix show without noticing—and coveting—the array of pearls worn by Claire Foy as Queen Elizabeth II and Vanessa Kirby as Princess Margaret. Season 3, currently in production, will star Olivia Colman (a recent Oscar winner for her portrayal of Queen Anne in The Favourite) as Elizabeth.

CRAZY RICH ASIANS (2018) Earrings with sapphires, pearls, and micromosaic of seed pearls in gold-plated silver, €390 ($438), Percossi Papi, percossipapi@ percossipapi.com, percossipapi.com; Lydia pendant with large freshwater pink pearl in 22k peach gold and diamonds on 18k pink gold enhancer, $3,960, Lika Behar, likabehar@likabehar. com, likabehar.com

Pearl and diamond earrings designed by Mouawad played a pivotal role in the life of Gemma Chan’s character, Astrid—not to mention the one-of-a-kind multistrand pearl, emerald, ruby, and diamond necklace that Michelle Yeoh’s character, Eleanor Young, wore as her family’s formidable matriarch.

THE FAVOURITE (2018)

Pearl jewelry appeared throughout this film about Queen Anne’s love life circa 1708, with all manner of chokers and drop earrings adorning the central characters. Can an indie movie spark a demand for pearl jewelry on a macro scale? Probably not, but it may well prompt pearl sellers and designers to use their Favourite looks as inspiration.

TIN CUP: WARNER BROS./EVERETT; REAR WINDOW AND BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S: EVERETT

essential to pearl jewelry: classic elegance, ­femininity, and versatility.

“There’s a neutrality to pearls that makes them the ultimate for blending, either with the wearer’s skin tone or mixed with other jewelry styles,” says Diana Singer, owner of Abbott & Austin, an estate jewelry business in New York City. When it comes to selling, she says, customers “appreciate things being pointed out to them and emphasized. It’s good to be reminded that pearls have been around for centuries and have always been great, and now’s a great time to repurpose them and wear them in unexpected ways.”

Use your blogs, social media, and email newsletters to keep c­ustomers and clients informed about the cultural relevance of pearls by, for example, highlighting a movie like ­ The Favourite; reporting on a related event such as the recent “Jewelry: The Body Transformed” exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art; or delving into other timely topics such as female empowerment. “The more sophisticated jewelry buyer is ­affected

Baz Luhrmann’s reboot of the iconic Jazz Age story involved a collaboration with Tiffany & Co. that included authentic Art Deco jewels from the house’s collection and newly minted pieces inspired by 1920s-era archival designs, many featuring cultured pearls with diamonds.

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Electrum Waves Seafoam earring in 22k gold–plated silver with pink keshi pearl; $136 (sold singly); Pernille Lauridsen; shop@ pernillelauridsen. com; pernille lauridsen.com

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O C E A N ’S FIVE MEET 5 DESIGNERS WHO ARE GUARANTEED TO GIVE YOUR STORE A DOSE OF PEARL POWER

by Brittany Siminitz

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Sera Water Poison ring in 18k yellow gold with inlaid mother-of-pearl and large Tahitian pearl; $8,250; Harwell Godfrey; 646-745-6831; harwellgodfrey.com

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Signature 8 mm Tahitian pearl necklace in 18k yellow gold and diamond, tsavorite, and rhodolite clasp, with 18k black gold and amethyst add-on ring, 18k yellow gold and yellow sapphire add-on connector, and 15 mm peacock Tahitian pearl pendant with large dagger in 18k white, black, and yellow gold and diamonds; $23,085; Rosa Van Parys; 818-928-4430; rosavanparys.com

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Mono-earring in 18k rose gold with 10 mm–11 mm black South Sea pearl and 0.04 ct. rhodolite, €815 ($914); Monoearring in 18k rose gold with 8 mm– 9 mm and 10 mm– 11 mm white South Sea pearls and 0.04 ct. t.w. pink sapphires, €1,240 ($1,390); Alessandra Donà at Gioielli Group; 914-289-0206; alessandradona.com

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Flapper Girl medium hoop earrings with white seed pearls and moonstones in 18k yellow gold; £1,025 ($1,344); Sweet Pea Fine Jewellery; mail@ sweetpeajewellery. com; sweetpea jewellery.com

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GODFREY: ELLA SOPHIE

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PERNILLE LAURIDSEN

HARWELL GODFREY

ROSA VAN PARYS

ALESSANDRA DONÀ

SWEET PEA JEWELLERY

After perusing Danish jeweler Pernille Lauridsen’s creations, you’re left feeling as if you just attended a gallery dedicated solely to the art of the pearl.

“I just think the pearl is one of the most beautiful jewels you can use,” she says. “For me, it’s highly feminine; the way that light is absorbed by the surface seems so delicate. Pearls are timeless and elegant, giving you so many possibilities to be creative, while still making a classic piece of jewelry.”

The ocean is a major muse for the designer, who has given her collections names such as Waves and dubbed her individual designs Mermaid and Pink Seafoam (to name just two). You can practically hear the sounds of the sea just by looking at them. But there’s a playful touch across her other collections as well; Ice Cream is an especially fun one, ­featuring gold-plated waffle cone pendants topped with baroque freshwater or Tahitian pearls in assorted shades (i.e., flavors of ice cream).

“I always find inspiration in the ocean and interior design,” Lauridsen says. “I’m looking for inspiration in my daily life, and things that catch my eye. I’m just often thinking of a new way to showcase my personal style into a piece of jewelry.”

Lovers of pearls and modern styles alike will get lost in the Copenhagen, Denmark– based creator’s fluid, squiggly lines, glistening organic pearls—freshwater, Tahitian, keshi, and a rare specimen called pipi shells—and clever ­additions of colored gems.

If “handmade in California” conjures images of breezy, easy-to-wear jewels, Lauren Harwell Godfrey is doing it right. The San Francisco– based founder/designer behind Harwell Godfrey—a blend of her maiden and married names—doesn’t work exclusively with pearls, but her pearl creations certainly leave a lasting impression.

Godfrey has worn many hats: After 15 years as an art director and creative director in the advertising industry, she followed another passion into the world of critically acclaimed and popular restaurants (think Chez Panisse), mastering the art of food.

Now, she’s, ahem, cooking up an amazing assortment of fine jewelry with Harwell Godfrey. Inspired by the ­power of crystals and their ancient history of healing, Godfrey designs pieces to connect with ­consumers not only on a visual level, but also on a spiritual one.

Geometrically inclined jewelry, often inset with gemstones, is a common theme in the line. A small—but powerful—selection of those pieces features big, bold pearls, such as the Sera Water Poison ring, a hinged, locket-style piece that positions a large Tahitian pearl atop a bed of inlaid mother-of-pearl.

“I believe consumers are ready to dust off their pearls and bring them back into fashion in contemporary ways,” Godfrey says. “It’s when pearls are being used in surprising contexts that they become exciting again.”

Specializing in one-of-a-kind creations, the Ecuadorianraised, Southern California– dwelling artist Rosa Van Parys is a whiz with detail, undoubtedly owing to her other career as an architect/interior designer. She characterizes her work as “elegance with edge.”

You get a sense that Van Parys is inspired by strong women by the look of her designs—even before visiting her website, which flashes the phrases She is strong!

She is smart! She is sexy! She is empowered! in big, bold letters. Taking design risks, or what Van Parys calls “fearless moves”—such as ­“combining a precious symbol of ­perfection and purity, like an AAA Tahitian pearl with a daring element like an ­embellished gold dagger”— pays off big-time.

Masterpieces with glossy pearls paired with daggers, horns, or spikes—drenched in glittering gemstones such as pink and yellow sapphires, tsavorites, and diamonds— catch the eye and capture the heart. Van Parys’ playful version of an ice cream cone pendant slathers a rich scoop of Tahitian pearl with multicolored sapphire and tsavorite (rainbow) sprinkles, topped by a ruby-­accented cherry.

“I totally feel that a large majority of younger generations have the misconception that pearls are for grandmas,” Van Parys says. “I want to change that with my pearl designs. I think every girl should own a strand of pearls, and I think mine make pearls current, fun, and edgier.”

Born and raised near Venice, Italy, Alessandra Donà is truly all about pearls: You’re hardpressed to find a jewel without one. The rare pieces that are pearl-free serve as accompaniments—stacking rings that mimic a larger ­design’s details, stud earrings to wear opposite a dangling pearl earring for an asymmetrical look.

“The pearls are among those things that Mother Nature incredibly donates us and are among the most ­fascinating subjects on our planet,” Donà says. “I ­exclusively use pearls from the South Sea, the most beautiful and rare pearl there is.”

Through her two collections—the rock star–worthy Friday Night and Timeless (described as “not classic” by the designer, despite its name)—Donà lets her pearls take center stage, using a minimalist approach and modern silhouettes that truly let the gems shine. Think hoop earrings dotted with brightly colored gemstones, capped off by a large pearl; stud earrings joined by a delicate chainlink ear cuff; a ­lavalier-style single-pearl necklace, oozing sex appeal. True, these may not be your grandma’s pearls, but, with their just-off-classic aura, someday, they’ll belong to someone’s grandma.

“In order to make live ­objects or creations linked to the past and to a classical lifestyle,” Donà says, “it is necessary to continuously reinterpret the objects so that they keep intact the attractiveness for people living in our contemporary world.”

From a Flapper Girl Pearl collection to classic black-andwhite pearl styles, clustered pearl pieces, and one-ofa-kind designs, Siobhan O’Neill, the designer behind Sweet Pea Fine Jewellery, knows her way around the glistening gem. “I have always loved pearls, even my grandmother’s!” says the Londonbased O’Neill. “The fact that it has been drawn from the sea and formed by a living creature is enthralling to me.”

A look over her rich lineup is like a journey through time; starting in the 1920s, continuing through the ’70s, to the here and now, there’s a nod to many eras.

“I love vintage clothes and accessories, architecture, and old black-and-white films,” says O’Neill, who set up her own business in 1991 after creating one-offs for the ­runways of designers including John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.

Yet many of O’Neill’s creations possess an undeniable timeless quality: sweet necklaces strung with a single pearl, hoop earrings nestled with a pearl in their arcs, seed pearls grouped along a chain, and stacking rings adorned with dangling pearl charms, all set in rich 18k gold. It’s perhaps her one-of-a-kind pieces—where she dares to facet her pearls, creating a look that puts a glossy pearl in a textured net—that are the most striking.

Plus: Any Sweet Pea piece can be effortlessly layered, lending a more-the-merrier vibe to her entire line.

JCKONLINE.COM

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SPRING 2019

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

PEARLS 24

Mastoloni

415 Madison Ave. New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-757-7278/800-34-PEARL Fax: 212-582-0884 Email: info@mastoloni.com Website: mastoloni.com Mastoloni Fireball pendant features a white baroque freshwater pearl with 14k yellow gold decorative prong hung from a 14k yellow gold 28-inch chain.

MSRP: $1,595

Baggins

510 W. Sixth St., Suite 416 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-624-2277 Fax: 213-624-2278 Email: bagginsinc@sbcglobal.net Website: bagginspearls.com Baggins’ gorgeously delicate, 14k YG, WG, and RG teardrop earrings feature 8–9 mm Tahitian or akoya cultured pearls and are set with 0.32 ct. t.w. rose-cut and round brilliant diamonds.

Hanadama Pearls

1248 Bel Air Road Los Angeles, CA 90077 Tel: 310-440-2159 Fax: 310-476-2756 Email: info@hanadama-cfp.com m Website: hanadama-cfp.com Hanadama: Literally, spherical flower. In the pearl world, the cream of the crop! Herein lies 56 years of tradition.

We exclusively inventory higher and top quality.

Hanadama Pearls, your South Sea specialist.

JCKONLINE.COM

Galatea Jewelry

by Artist

Tel: 909-592-1837 Email: info@galateausa.com Website: galateausa.com The Bible Pearl™ from Galatea is the only jewelry that contains the complete Bible, accessed with NFC technology and the Galatea Momento app. Available in 14k gold or sterling silver with freshwater pearls and lab-grown diamond druzy.

SF Pearls & Jewelry Mfg.

38 W. 48th St., Suite 201 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 401-263-6196 Email: info@epearlfarm.com Website: epearlfarm.com; wishpearlwholesale.com Wholesale Wish Pearls and cages, all kinds of pearls, and pearl jewelry.

We manufacture silver, gold, and lab-grown and natural diamond jewelry for pearls and diamond rings. JCK Las Vegas Booth 47090

Assael Inc.

589 Fifth Ave., Suite 1154 New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-819-0060 Fax: 212-764-1965 Email: info@assael.com Website: assael.com With a passion for innovation and respect for the sea, Assael presents new collections of rare South Sea, akoya, and Tahitian pearls, plus North America’s foremost selection of precious gem coral. Featured: Tahitian natural color cultured pearls with carved jadeite, and Tahitian stilettos with unheated tanzanite.

SPRING 2019